Australian Motorcyclist Issue #43 by Tony Clemenger

The Wild Side of Ducati

The world has no boundaries Over any distance, over any terrain, the new Ducati Multistrada 1200 Enduro is designed to conquer with all new levels of style, performance and technology

With the 160hp Ducati Testastretta DVT engine, 30 litre fuel tank, 19" front and 17” rear spoked wheels and 200mm wheel travel, it's time to follow the adventure wherever it takes you with no limits

New Ducati Multistrada 1200 Enduro. We’ve given it everything. Except boundaries

Editor Stuart Woodbury

Editor Emeritus J Peter Thoeming

Sales Manager Mal Jarrett mal@ausmotorcyclist.com.au

Photo Editor Nick Wood

Designer Amy Hale

Photographers Nick Wood Photography, Half-Light Photography

Contributors Robert Crick, Mike Grant, Jacqui Kennedy, Robert Lovas, Phil Gadd, Boris Mihailovic, Lester Morris, The Possum,Guy Stanford, Stuart Strickland, Michael Walley, Colin Whelan

Editorial contactus@ausmotorcyclist.com.au

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EDITORSPEAKS

what’s he blabbing on about now?

Here we go again. A recent Facebook post on our Australian Motorcyclist Magazine page featured a comment from one of you guys showing his anger towards the ridiculous “rules” that service stations try to apply to motorcyclists. It brought back memories about my own experiences with this particular kind of frustration.

Caltex service stations seem to be the worst in my experience and I once had the pump switched on by the console operator, only for it to be switched off mid-fill. After some arm/hand waving from both of us, the pump was switched back on and I finished my fill. While filling the bike I had my open face helmet on and nothing obscuring my face. I walked into the store to pay for the fuel and the operator screamed at me (literally!) to take my helmet off. I basically replied, “Are you refusing my payment?” He didn’t seem to understand, so I repeated myself, at which point he said that if I took my helmet off he’d take my payment. So I said, “okay, you’re refusing to take my payment, so see you later”. I started to walk out and the manager (a different person) quickly ran after me, apologising profusely.

However the craziest experience I had with a service station attendant was at a BP service station. The attendant tried to tell me that it was “Common Law” that motorcyclists must remove their helmets. I said, “Oh? I didn’t know motorcycles were even around when common law was written”. This particular individual just had a blank look on his face, took my payment and still had a confused look on his dial as I walked out, no doubt trying to work out what I had said.

But enough of my experiences, how about you guys and gals write in and let us know the craziness you’ve experienced in “service station land”. Email info@ausmotorcyclist.com.au or via snail mail.

As you read this column it’s only a week before I head off for Wakeﬁeld Park for Round 4 of the PCRA

Championship and the 1 Hour Endurance for Post Classic machines (27/28 Aug). I have the potential to take home four 1st place trophies which I’m quite excited about. Of course, the variables that go into winning each race makes that all the harder, but I’m racing my CBR900RR in Pre Modern F1 on the Saturday in the sprint races, then in the 1 hour which (if I win) will be the third year in a row I’ve won this endurance race. I’ll also be back on the little FZR400 I raced last year with my mate Chris, who this year has been sidelined for the guy who actually owns the bike, Simon. We will be entered in Pre Modern F3 and then backing it up in Pre Modern F2, which runs at the same time as the F1 race, so I’ll jump off my CBR, setting my other rider, Dan on his way to lap the ﬁeld, while I jump on the 400 a few minutes later.

As it was last year, racing for an hour and a half when you’re not “triathlete” ﬁt makes it hard, especially with my long pins having to be scrunched up for an hour and a half. It takes its toll! I have been exercising for this year’s race, which should help. Wish me luck and if you’re not doing anything, come to Wakeﬁeld Park and watch a really fun day’s racing on the Sunday. Of all the racing I’ve done over the years, the 1 Hour PCRA meeting is by far the most fun I’ve ever had. Cheers, Stuart.

GRIZZLING FROMTHEBEAR

HOP ABOARD THE FLYING ‘ROO

Been thinking about a trip to the US, maybe for a ride on Route 66 or another adventure? Well, Qantas is currently offering an Economy return ﬂight to Los Angeles, San Francisco or Dallas/Fort Worth for a measly $1049. Hard to resist! Dates included are, for Los Angeles: 20 October to 17 November 2016, 15 January to 17 March 2017 and 1 to 31 May 2017; for San Francisco: 1 October to 25 November 2016, 15 January to 30 March 2017 and 1 to 31 May 2017; and for Dallas Fort/ Worth: 1 October to 17 November 2016, 15 January to 17 March 2017 and 1 to 31 May 2017. Other destinations are also on sale; hop onto the Qantas website.

NO RESPECT

Some people have no respect at all. Others have it most of the time but lose it when they’re sheltering from intermittent rain under a leaking tarpaulin across the road from a beautiful church in the old city of San Sebastian in Spain… I couldn’t help creating captions for these two statues after I’d photographed them.

combinations on your rego plate can get you into trouble – or more likely, never let you get the plate you’re after. Take a look at the one in the picture – does it seem innocuous enough? Maybe it belongs to a Chinese rider? The number 8 is popular with Chinese people because it apparently sounds like “money” when you say it in Cantonese. Or so I’m told by a friend who speaks it; he could be having me on. But no, not in this case. First, try spelling it out backwards. NAZI. Ah hah. Then consider which is the eighth letter of the alphabet – H. So we have HH, which could be seen to signify Heil Hitler. The number 18 is equally frowned upon, suggesting Adolf you-know-who. The law says that plates may not “contravene good manners”, and this also eliminates, for example, HE-IL.

from tour operator MotoQuest, “you can only marvel and wonder at how the Lewis and Clark Expedition pushed their boats to where they could go no further, and crossed this rugged landscape by foot. It is moments like this during our Trail of Lewis and Clark Adventure that you realize what an arduous, impossible task they had somehow completed.”

Well, Phil, that sounds pretty tough (and the tour sounds brilliant) but it does pale against what Australian explorers had to contend with. Try temperatures of 54 degrees Celsius in the shade and 65 degrees in the sun, as recorded by Charles Sturt. He even had a thermometer burst from the heat. “The lead”, he noted, “dropped out of our pencils” and “we found it difﬁcult to write or draw, so rapidly did the ﬂuid dry in our pens and brushes.”

SKIN AIN’T IN

A while ago I mentioned that giving someone the ﬁnger in Germany can get you a pretty serious ﬁne. Well, it’s not only insults that can have you tangling with the law. Even poor manners can do it. Apparently, various letter and number

At ﬁrst glance this probably seems over the top. But when you consider history, and the resurgence of right-wing extremism in Europe, it begins to make sense. But pity the skinheads. In one German state, SaxonyAnhalt, even SKIN is out.

RIDING THROUGH HISTORY

“When you straddle the spring creek that eventually becomes the Missouri River high in the continental divide at Lemhi Pass in Idaho,” writes Phil Freeman

We don’t know what Ludwig Leichhardt had to put up with, or what he thought of it, because he didn’t come back. Burke and Wills, probably our equivalent of Lewis and Clark, didn’t do much better; only one white man from the expedition made it home alive.

So what’s my point, apart from bragging about how much tougher our explorers are than theirs? Well, has anyone here ever thought of organising a tour to follow the routes of some of our early explorers? The closest I can think of was the Murray Meander, set up by the Hodaka 125 Motorcycle Touring Club, which followed the big river from its mouth to Tom Groggin, near its source. That was sort of Major Mitchell in reverse, I guess.

Peter ‘The Bear’ Thoeming

Life can be tough in Australia – just look at the parking here! / Yep, I found it hard to believe too. Mind you, if I’d been in Vegas on a Sunday morning I would deﬁnitely have gone! What a way to save your soul…

“Look what you’ve done now.” “It was like that when I arrived!”

Looks okay, ain’t so.

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SHOWTIME!

Moto Expo 2016 – Melbourne

Australia’s biggest motorcycle exhibition – Moto Expo Melbourne – is all set to roar into life when it returns to Melbourne Showgrounds on November 25 to 27, 2016.

For three full days (Friday, November 25 to Sunday, November 27, 2016) Melbourne Showgrounds will become the epicentre of the Australian motorcycle industry and a mustvisit destination for Australasian motorcycle enthusiasts. We here at Australian Motorcyclist will be there, right near the Café. Keep up to date on all the latest news and information for MOTO EXPO Melbourne by visiting the www.motoexpo.com.au website and following www.facebook. com/motoexpoaustralia and @ motoexpoaus on Instagram. Online ticket sales for Moto Expo Melbourne will be available closer to the show, or patrons can purchase their tickets at the door.

POWERING ON 2016 Motorcycle Sales

revealing a 3.5 per cent increase over the same period last year.

The hugely diversiﬁed motorcycle market, with its myriad of models from cruisers to café racers, supermotards to motocrossers, maintained strong momentum overall. The offroad motorcycle market rose 4.3 per cent over the ﬁrst six months of 2016, while the road bike market increased 4.4 per cent. The only decline was in the scooter market, which fell 11 per cent compared with the same period last year. Onwards and upwards for all, for the second half of the year.

BEAR IT

Bear Ride 2016

The Bear Ride is on again this year. It was such a success last year that

account on the Every Day Hero website. Here is the link https://give. everydayhero.com/au/dave-56

All the money goes to the Hospital. (4) Send Dave Tynan an email (david@ survivetheride.org) with the name of your team, the team members and a postal address so we can send your Bear.

Then take your Bear on adventures until the end of September and raise more money for the Hospital. Raise more than $500 and you automatically enter the “best photo” competition. See the website for more details - www.survivetheride.org/ projectsnevents/the-bear-ride/

STAND UP AND REJOICE

New road rules

Lobbying and advocacy work by the Motorcycle Council of NSW in conjunction with the Australian Motorcycle Council has borne fruit with the introduction of road rule changes in NSW effective from Friday 1 July 2016.

The changes are:

The Australian motorcycle and ATV market grew strongly in the ﬁrst half of 2016, with the latest sales ﬁgures

organisers have kept the same format (you raised over $15,000).

To enter in 2016: (1) get a team of riders together, (2) raise $50, (3) donate it to The Children’s Hospital at Westmead through the Bear Ride

Rule 270 – A motorcycle rider who is pushing a motorcycle does not have to wear a helmet, if the engine is not running and it is safe to do so.

Rule 271(1A) (a) – A motorcycle rider may stand on the footrests of a motorcycle provided it is safe to do so, for example to help them maintain control on roads with potholes or loose gravel.

Rule 271(1A) (b) – A motorcycle rider may remove a foot from the footrest when it is safe to do so, for example to stretch.

Let’s now hope that the other States and Territories follow… 

INTO AFRICA

ARISTOTLE KNEW THAT AFRICA IS A TOUGH NUT TO CRACK. COMPASS DOES IT ANYWAY. WORDS ROBIN NEWELL PHOTOS COMPASS EXPEDITIONS

“ The R e I s A lwAys s O me T h IN g N ew CO m IN g O u T OF A FRICA . ”

ARIsTOTle

Andwhat’s the latest out of Africa?

A Cairo to Cape Town expedition. It’s been a long time since a motorcycle tour company offered what was and remains one of the most iconic rides on earth.

With the knowledge that the inaugural Cairo to Cape Town expedition would have extra challenges the Compass Expeditions team travelled the entire route “again” just weeks before the tour start date to ensure that the expedition would run as smoothly as possible

After reams of paperwork, signatures in triplicate, port passes, “expert

advisors” and a mammoth effort in diplomacy by the Compass crew it still took five full days to get the vehicles out of the dock and on the way to Cairo. There was huge relief among the group to be finally on the way to Cairo for the beginning of this 78-day adventure. The first official night was spent at the Le Meridien Hotel in Cairo, spectacularly located in the shadow of the Pyramids.

After the obligatory tour of the Pyramids of Giza and Cairo city, the ﬁrst ride day saw the group depart Cairo, under heavy police escort, and

ride south on high-speed open roads to the Red Sea Coast and the resort town of Hurghada. After Hurghada we rode southwest to Luxor, home to what is known as the greatest open-air museum on earth, with the spectacular Valley of the Kings and Queens amongst countless towering ancient Egyptian ruins, to read the hieroglyphics and to walk where the Pharaohs walked is something else. We took a Felucca boat ride and enjoyed the sights of the legendary Nile River.

The group, at this stage, was starting to bond and appreciate the adventure

they had all signed up for. From Aswan we joined a convoy to take us down to the legendary UNESCO listed temples of Abu Simbel, built by Ramses II in 13BC.

The days riding south through the stark yet beautiful Nubian Desert was very challenging due to the heat, but also very rewarding to be only a handful of bikers to have ever ridden in this country. Visiting the 8th Century BC pyramids of Meroe was amazing, it was hard to believe we were standing where Nero’s Praetorians stood all those centuries ago. Some difﬁcult sand riding to get to the pyramids provided challenges that thankfully didn’t last long.

Khartoum was a pleasant surprise made all the better by staying at the famous Acropole Hotel. We had a visit from the minister for tourism and the local TV network waiting to greet us at the hotel on our arrival. A city tour saw us stop off to see the conﬂuence of the Blue and White Niles and ﬁnishing the day at the town cemetery to watch the Whirling Dervishes, where dancers spin themselves into a trance-like state. We felt privileged to witness “the real Africa”.

After the deserts of Egypt & Sudan we crossed into Ethiopia where the roads started to ascend the moment we crossed the border. The roads were chaotic, they are viewed as wide footpaths for pedestrians; throw in some sheep, cattle, camels and donkeys and you really had to keep your wits about you.

The riding through the Simien Mountains is biking heaven with very long and winding twisties and dramatic mountain passes, it seemed every inch of Ethiopia was one giant twisty. Staying at the highest lodge in Africa added to the appeal of the superb country that has long since shaken off its “famine” reputation.

Leaving the Ethiopian Highlands we reached Kenya. The expedition had entered a new phase as we were entering an epic landscape of savannah grasslands and plains chock full of animals.

Crossing the equator we visited our ﬁrst game park, on bicycles, at Hells

TRAVEL

Gate National Park near Niavasha. It was exciting to get our ﬁrst glimpse of wildlife including giraffe, warthog and zebra.

Essentially halfway through the expedition, Nairobi was a chance for some much-needed maintenance on both machines and riders. While most of the guys took some time to relax over the three days, our mechanic Bayne was kept busy assisting everybody with chain adjustments, oil changes, repairing brake calipers, replacing mirrors, windscreens and of course a few tyres. He certainly deserved a beer at the end of it all.

Over the next three days in The Serengeti National Park, we spotted more than 30 lions, dozens of elephants, thousands of wildebeest, zebras, a family of cheetahs, leopards, buffalos, giraffes and warthogs along with a huge variety of other species. Witnessing a coalition of lion brothers stalking a herd of buffalo topped it off. Life and Death on the African plains right in front of us! Spending nights in luxury Safari tents listening to the roar of lions in the stunning dark of the

plains is something that will stay with us forever.

The next leg saw us ride across the spectacular plains, valleys and hills of Northern Tanzania as we made our way to the coast and our ferry across to the Spice Island of Zanzibar. Stone Town is like stepping back in time with its cobble stone streets, old forts, ﬁshing dhows on the clear blue waters and a cultural fusion of African and Arabian. We headed north for a few days, with some great seafood and plentiful drinks, white sandy beaches and captivating sunsets.

Back on the mainland we left the chaos of Dar es Salaam and headed south into the stunning Malawi, stopping for a night at the luxurious Makumi Game Reserve where we had dinner overlooking a waterhole which was visited by a herd of elephants as the sun disappeared over the forest; it just doesn’t get any more African than this.

Crossing from Tanzania to Malawi was another great change. With all its beauty, Tanzania is quite a treacherous place to ride: buses drive at breakneck speeds, trucks are hopelessly overloaded and the traffic is frantic. In comparison Malawi has minimal traffic and is a great place to be on a motorbike. Throw in the stunning countryside which includes the 9th largest lake in the world and it is a paradise for the biker. We spent the next few days winding along the shores, camping at magnificent lodges, swimming in fresh clear water and being blown away by spectacular sunrises and sunsets. We rode south through war-torn Mozambique, fortunately on the road to recovery, and into Zimbabwe. One of the most frustrating things that we encountered were the constant police checks: approximately every 10km. The economic outlook for Zimbabwe ensures that this practice will continue for some time yet!

Harare was another chance to do some maintenance and clean up our camping gear, all on the grounds of our palatial hotel where the president of the Democratic Republic of the Congo was also staying. From Harare we travelled to The Great Zimbabwe

www.dragginjeans.net

travel

Ruins, a UNESCO listed 11th century city, then on to Gweru and the African Lion and Environmental Research Trust (ALERT). This amazing private game reserve allowed us a truly “once in a lifetime” experience where we had the opportunity to walk alongside some large lion cubs, an unforgettable experience… if somewhat daunting. Victoria Falls is really awe inspiring.

As you walk along the track leading to the falls, you can hear the roar of the water and see the spray blasting into the sky, but standing on the edge looking down is another thing again. Some of the group went that little further and tried out the bungy jumping and white water rafting. The sunset cruise offered us a remarkable opportunity to see elephants drinking by the riverbank and

hippos in the swirling pools, all the while enjoying a beverage or two ourselves.

We crossed into Botswana and the legendary Chobe National Park with its 20,000 strong herd of elephants. We spent an evening on a game cruise on the mighty Zambezi River, getting up close and personal with elephants, crocs, buffalos and hippos.

Next was the beautiful open expanse of Botswana to spend a night at wonderful Planet Baobab. Camping among the giant Baobab trees was a great experience and while watching the approaching electrical storms as they pounded the nearby Makgadikgadi Pans, our spirits soared!

We entered Namibia through the former gun running corridor known

as the Caprivi Strip to the sensational Etosha National Park. Staying at the stunning Mokuti Etosha Lodge the memories of “roughing it” in Northern Africa were a distant memory.

Leaving Etosha we rode across the large expanse of Namibia staying at a privately owned game reserve of Omaruru before hitting the Atlantic Ocean and the vast Skeleton Coast. We had crossed the continent from the Indian Ocean to the Atlantic. Leaving the adventure capital of Namibia, Swakopmund, we were met by 50 local bike riders who had heard we were in town. These riders joined us for a 40km ride south into the desert; it was an amazing experience to be escorted out

of town by so many bikes.

We crossed more epic desert landscapes on gravel roads to reach the iconic Sossusvlei National Park for an early morning visit to the famous Dune 45, a giant sand dune that features in just about every image of Namibia. We were in a landscape of towering, shifting dunes that glowed red in the early morning sun.

Our penultimate night in Namibia was spent at a wonderfully recreated classic truck stop, on the edge of the Fish River Canyon. Then we rode across the border to our ﬁnal country South Africa, arriving into Cape Town a lifetime of experiences later.

It’s difﬁcult to imagine that three

Who

Sound like fun? Well get in touch with Compass Expeditions to create your own adventure.

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Within Australia ph: 1300 887 327

International ph: +61 3 9747 2379

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months before, 20 complete strangers had met for the ﬁrst time in Cairo to begin an adventure that would change their lives. We were about to ride our motorbikes for 18,000 kilometres through 12 countries across the length of Africa. Now, 78 days later, we were in Cape Town, having completed that journey. This group of strangers have become lifelong friends.

Along the way we learned that Africa is the most amazing, challenging, scary, beautiful, frustrating, intimidating, welcoming and exhilarating place in the world. It is truly a continent of contrasts and to do it on a motorbike lifts that experience to another level altogether. We started with 16 bikes and 16 riders and we ﬁnished the same way. The oldest rider in the group was 74 and the youngest was just 23; that’s an age gap of more than 50 years. We came from Australia, USA, England, Canada and France. We are coal miners, engineers, doctors, CEOs, sailors, stuntmen and optometrists yet despite all the differences, we became a group of great mates looking after each other during the adventure of a lifetime.

We are now part of a truly elite group of motorcycle riders. We have ridden the length of Africa, from Cairo to Cape Town, possibly the only group to ride this route in the last ﬁve years. It’s a proud feeling to be part of that small group, especially alongside such good mates. Aristotle would have been proud of us, and Cairo to Cape Town is back! =

BLEAVIN’ ON A JET PLANE

BUSINESS TRAVEL IS ABOUT TO BECOME MORE INTERESTING

Do you travel for business? Going by our mail, quite a few of our readers do. If you’re one of them you might soon be hit by an unpleasant surprise: your flights may soon be downgraded from Business to Premium Economy. But it’s not all bad. At the same time may find yourself staying in a five star rather than a four star hotel, and enjoying some “bleisure”. Some what?

It’s a portmanteau word, formed from “business” and “leisure”. And it refers to the growing tendency for employers to allow travellers to take a day or more off at their destination before or after their business appointments. If you’re a motorcyclist you will perk up at that piece of news. Let’s see, where do you go for business – Auckland*? Wonderful motorcycle destination, even just for a day. San Francisco**? Brilliant, and you don’t have to put up with miles of freeway ﬁrst. Hobart***? Hard to ﬁnd a better place to spend a day on a bike. And so on.

If you manage to score a couple of days off in either Los Angeles or San Francisco, you could ride Highway 1 from one to the other. Yes, it’s

possible to arrange one-way rides. I read about “bleisure” in the Australian Financial Review, where it was pointed out that a company can save $5000 on a $7000 long-haul ticket, which would make the concept pretty much irresistible to any company accountant I’ve ever met. In the article, a travel company MD says that it’s her older clients who tend to take advantage of the bleisure option. “It’s more at the executive level than middle management,” she says. “If they’re going to New York or Los Angeles on business, they might go skiing or meet up with their wife…” This kind of travel is less popular with middle management, who tend to be in their 30s or 40s. Hmm, so it’s our reader age group, eh? I knew you were out there having a good time… So I’m going to put together a few suggestions for motorcycle bleisure travel and run them as short stories in these pages. Don’t worry, they won’t be expensive and they will be accessible to anyone, whether you’re a CEO or a carpenter, a plumber or a palaeontologist. Or even a journalist. You will have the reassurance that I have actually travelled almost all of them, and can give you on-the-spot information and advice.

Look for the stories, beginning in our next issue. As for “bleisure” the word – I suggest we instead switch to a portmanteau word from “holidays” and “business”, namely “holiness”…

*Spare day in Auckland? Try Te Waiponamu on 09 444 8241 or www. motorcycle-hire.co.nz. They’re in Christchurch, as well, and down there I’m also happy to recommend South Paciﬁc Motorcycle Tours on 03 312 0066 or at www.motorbiketours. co.nz. Yes, I’ve had bikes from both.

**If you’re a regular reader, or even an occasional one, you will know that one of my favourite rental shops in the world is Dubbelju Motorcycle Rentals in San Francisco. Run by my friend Wolfgang Taft (do say hello when you rent a bike from him) the shop has recently moved to 274 Shotwell Street, still in downtown SF. And yes, Wolfgang will arrange one-way rides down through Big Sur to LA (or even the reverse) for you. Call him on 415 495 2774 or see www.dubbelju.com.

***Moto Adventure Tasmania would be my choice here, although I have not tried them. There are other bike rental places in Tassie, but they are all in Launceston (as far as I know – feel free to correct me).

Phone 0499 506 700 or see www.motoadventure.com.au. =

WHEN: From Tuesday May 2 – Tuesday 11 July, 2017 (or longer by arrangement with Get Routed)

CONTACT: Dave Milligan dave@getrouted.com.au 0412 689 849 and/or 03 5625 9080.

Cam Donald

Alex Pickett

BIKeteSt

Stuart is wearing an Rjays CFK-1 carbon helmet, Dririder Scrambler jacket, Held Satu gloves, Draggin jeans and Dririder iRide 2 boots.

really want from a LAMS machine. Suzuki has aimed to make the new bike lighter, narrower and generally a simpler machine. So let’s look at the new SV650 and see how eighty odd changes from the Gladius model have made it better than any other SV650 before it.

The V-twin engine has a new airbox, coated pistons, 10-hole injectors and a new exhaust system which is undoubtedly the bike’s centrepiece. Despite all the emissions restrictions, the exhaust has a nice V-twin growl about it.

Torque is juicy below 5000rpm and the throttle response is smooth no matter whether it’s closed, just open or anywhere else. But, this being a LAMS model, all of the goodness that lurks within has to be tamed. That happens at just over 5000rpm, where it feels like you’ve got your hand over the intake and the power

and torque ﬂattens off all the way to redline. It’s not really an issue for those learning to ride, in fact it’s perfect to have the power ﬂatten off like that, because with higher revs comes higher speed and you don’t need high speeds when you’re learning to ride.

The best thing about this SV650 has to be its awesome handling. It has been carried over from the Gladius, which was also a sweet handling and easy bike to ride. The feeling is very neutral, with excellent grip. Learning how to do those U-turns is a breeze on this bike. Just whack it around on the spot and away you go.

Braking performance is adequate but

I would like a little more initial bite for a learner rider. Wiping that ﬁrst bit of initial speed off when braking is all

All and everything in this modern package.

The round headlight is back.

important to have more time to react to any other situations that might occur on the road. But if you’ve been riding for a while, you’ll ﬁnd the braking performance is progressive and will stop you just ﬁne.

Fit and finish on the SV650 are outstanding for the price. $9990 ride away is not really a lot of money when you see just how well-built and well-finished the bike you’re getting is. Things like the attention to detail on the plastic parts and their fitment is more in the class of a 15k plus machine and of course the paintwork is top notch. I really liked the very understated red metallic on the bike we tested, although it was hard to photograph. The effect cannot always be seen, either; only in bright sunlight do you know it’s there. The instrument panel is modern, contains all the info needed and adds to the feeling of quality on this bike.

Accessories are limited from Suzuki; basically a small or large tank bag, fuel cap decal and some tyre valve caps is what you’ll get. Suzuki has

told me they plan to have some more accessories including some neat little side panels, visor meter, chin spoiler and a tuck roll seat, but these will be available towards the end of the year. So for anything else that might take your fancy, aftermarket suppliers are your friends.

Ergonomics play a big part in making the SV650 so easy to ride. A well supported (low) 785mm seat, just-weighted wrists, and footpegs that aren’t too high/too low give you a rider’s triangle with good support and plenty of room to move around in any situation.

After all these years I’m still so impressed with just how good the Suzuki SV650 is. Its versatility is excellent, being both a LAMS model and a mid-sized bike for someone who just wants a sweet machine. Both kinds of riders will really enjoy this bike which does exactly what you ask of it. =

SPECS

Suzuki SV650

PRICE: $9990 (ride away)

WARRANTY: Two years, unlimited distance

SERVICING INTERVALS: Every 10,000km or 12 months

ENGINE: Liquid-cooled V-twin cylinder, 4-stroke, DOHC, 4 valves per cylinder

BORE x STROKE: 81 x 62.6mm

DISPLACEMENT: 645cc

COMPRESSION: 11.2:1

POWER: N/A

TORQUE: N/A

TRANSMISSION: 6-speed, wet multi-plate clutch, chain ﬁnal drive

SUSPENSION: Front, 41mm telescopic fork, non-adjustable, travel 125mm. Rear, monoshock, adjustable preload, travel 125mm.

DIMENSIONS: Seat height 785mm, weight 197kg (wet), fuel capacity 14.5 litres, wheelbase 1445mm

TYRES: Front, 120/70/ZR17. Rear, 160/60/ZR17

FRAME: Tubular steel

BRAKES: Front, twin 290mm discs with dual-piston ABS calipers. Rear, 240mm disc, single-piston ABS caliper.

FUEL CONSUMPTION: 4.96 litres per 100km, premium unleaded

THEORETICAL RANGE: 292km

COLOURS: Pearl Mira Red, Pearl Glacier White, Metallic Matte Black

VERDICT: TASTE IT

As sweet as ever V-twin

TRAVEL THREE AND YOU’RE OUT

DIFFERENT WAYS TO GET OUT OF MELBOURNE WORDS/PHOTOS THE BEAR

No, I do not subscribe to the idea that the best thing about Melbourne is the Hume Highway leading north. In fact, the eight years I spent living down there were among the happiest and most fulﬁlling of my life. And one reason I was so happy is that there are so many outstanding destinations for rides out of our southern metropolis. None of which, I might add, need to use the Hume Highway…

Here then are three of my favourite Melbourne excursions, each about 350km one way which makes them either good, long day rides or relaxed overnighters. The choice, as always, is yours. In each case there are shorter and

more obvious routes, but it’s nice to see a different bit of country every now and then…

ROLLIN’ TO THE RIVER YELLOW ROUTE

The Murray is always a terriﬁc destination for a ride. When it’s hot, you can have a swim when you get there and when it’s cold you can… well, er, you can instead not

The mighty Murray has many moods, enough to satisfy anyone.

have a swim and have a drink in one of the many pubs that line the river, instead. Win-win, really.

The place we’re heading for this time is in fact little more than a pub – although there is a servo there, too – called Barmah. Ah yes, Bear, I can hear you muttering into your beers, we’re going to read about the bloody (literally) leeches they used to catch up here for export, aren’t we? Well, more fool you because I wasn’t even going to mention them. Instead I was going to wax lyrical about the pleasures of camping up on the Murray River in Barmah State Park, and I shall proceed to do so. It is most pleasant to camp up on the Big River; there are waterside camp sites, no shortage of ﬁrewood and the opportunity to swim (should the weather be conducive) in the cool waters.

The Barmah pub has the distinction of being the only hostelry in Victoria that’s north of the Murray River. Other than that it is pleasant enough and has cold

beer; what more do you want? We once arrived there after the kitchen closed, but managed to order pizzas from Nathalia just down the road. Mind you, they did charge extra for delivery.

Now, to get there by an other- thanimmediately-obvious and probably boring road. Let’s start with Whittlesea. Why am I kicking off on the “wrong” side of the Hume Freeway? Because I want to make a stop along the way, and this is the best way to get there. We’re off up to Kinglake West, Flowerdale and Yea and then along the Goulburn Valley Highway to Seymour, where we roll through town and then take the turnoff to the Tank Museum at Puckapunyal Army Camp. Marvellous place, has some of the rarest tanks in the world due to judicious swaps with other

Barmah pub may not look like much, but… er, well, it isn’t really much. Beer’s cold, though.

tank museums, including at least one in Russia. Actually this place probably makes a full day ride destination on its own. Just take a quick look around, then, and we’ll come back next weekend.

From Puckapunyal it’s a short punt across to the Northern Highway where we turn right and then eventually right again onto the C347, a nice back road which more or less rejoins the highway at Rochester. From here it’s a short run north to Echuca and across the river to Moama before tackling the Cobb Highway in NSW for 14km. Here we turn right and in another 14km ﬁnd ourselves looking at the bridge back to Victoria and to the pub, just on the left.

The State Park is on the left as well. One day I’ll tell you what happened to my late mate ’Bat along this road…

Major

Mitchell’s Mountains

Green

route

Are the Grampians really mountains, or are they just a double range of hills? And does anyone care? Major Mitchell, who named them after one of the three major mountain ranges in his native Scotland, clearly thought of them as mountains. Let’s go with the original, then. And let’s get there by our very own way.

Since I hardly need to tell you much about the Grampians, I’m going to get into more detail about the route. Indeed, I’m going to cobble together a route

that includes some of my favourite little stretches of road and painfully tries to avoid major ones.

Ready? All right, make your way to Melton and then head for Gisborne. Here, cut across the Calder Freeway to Mount Macedon, and continue north. Turn left to Woodend and continue to Tylden. Left here, then right and left again to Glenlyon. Right to Franklinford, on to Yandoit where we turn left to Campbelltown and on to Craigie, Amherst and ﬁnally Bung Bong. I chose this as a way point entirely for the name. We could have gone south to Talbot from Craigie and then to Lexton and

Signposting, even in the State Forest, is good. An excellent price for this produce, but sadly it’s a little difﬁcult to carry on a bike.

Gee some people are clever, aren’t they?

With a bit of luck the Amphitheatre pub will be open when you get there.

Amphitheatre. But we’re Bun’ Bongers now, so we ride on to Avoca and then we take the Pyrenees Highway to Ararat and, ﬁnally, to Halls Gap.

It doesn’t matter in the slightest if you get lost somewhere along the way; most roads in this part of Victoria are fun, and as long as you end up in Ararat it doesn’t make any difference. And just for maximum contrast, why don’t you ride home along the Western Highway and Freeway?

THE SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE’S LARGEST GRAPEVINE

ORANGE ROUTE

Seriously. I mean, I don’t know how they determine this kind of thing; I have not been able to ﬁnd any kind of internationally accredited authority, for example, a kind of UNGVA. What does seem clear is that there is one in Hampton Court in England that’s more than twice the size of this one. Perhaps it’s only English-speaking countries that care about the size of their grapevines. This particular record holder, planted in 1867, is in the grounds of the Grape Vine Hotel on the corner of Main and Conness Streets and apparently measures 186cm at the base. The food and coffee get a pretty good wrap, although I prefer the Mulberry Tree Tearooms with its green outside sitting area. Martin Park is shady and good for a picnic.

Don’t be surprised if you encounter

movie cameras in Chiltern’s main street, conveniently called Main Street, or more likely Conness Street. The Victorian streetscape is really pretty, if a bit twee, and there are several historic buildings worth a look. A little Motor Museum behind the servo has lots of junk as well as some vintage bikes and cars, and the Star Hotel also has a museum. The Chiltern Athenaeum is a pretty typical local history museum but is quite well set up and houses an interesting charcoal burner used during WW2. There’s also some material about Henry Handel Richardson, referred to on their website as Henry Handel Richardson.

“Black Jack” McEwen, leader of the Country Party when they still had leaders you’d recognise in the street, was born here.

Okay, that’s all very well, but what about getting there?

I see many options, Kemosabe. The most obvious one is of course to trundle up the Hume Freeway and turn off for the one kilometre ride to Chiltern. But my favourite way would be out to

Warburton and up the Reefton Spur, dodging pieces of Ducati fairings. Then I’d turn right and head for Jamieson and eventually Mansﬁeld by way of Woods Point. Gravel road warning here – if you prefer to stay on tar, turn left instead and take the road through Marysville and Alexandra to the road north of Mansﬁeld instead. Not quite so interesting, and somewhat carefully policed.

From Mansﬁeld you can head up a pleasant, paddock-lined country road towards Wangaratta. If you’re prepared to smudge your principles you can continue along the Freeway to Chiltern, or you can follow me to Beechworth and then up to Chiltern. The stretch between Reids Creek and Chiltern is especially good.

All right? Happy with that? If you’re going to stay the night, check out the Mulberry Tree or the caravan park in Chiltern, or the Royal Hotel just up the road in Rutherglen. 

The road down from Beechworth is a knockout, and not at all busy.

My favourite stop in Chiltern, the Mulberry Tree Tearooms.

moto Guzzi

v9 roamer

All roAds leAd to roAm

Words s tuA rt Photos t he Be A r

Moto Guzzi’s V7 has been screaming for years for some more mumbo and while Guzzi will still be selling the V7 range, that call has produced the new V9. Two versions are available, the Bobber and the one we tested here, the Roamer.

" ...and the road becomes my bride i have stripped of all but pride s o in her i do confide a nd she keeps me satisfied Gives me all i need… Wherever i m ay r oam "

- metallica

Moto Guzzi Australia kitted out the bike we tested with some of their exquisite accessory range for us by ﬁtting the screen, leather panniers, rack and rear bag. This gave ‘our’ V9 Roamer a decent amount of luggage capacity for a

single rider to get away for a couple of nights, or two-up for a night. The leather panniers are waterproof with an internal drawstring top so that no water ﬂies in through the top section of the leather ﬂap, and the rear bag has its own waterproof cover.

Guzzi sees the V9 as a “custom mid-sized cruiser” and the Roamer as an elegant and universal motorcycle. We support their vision; the Roamer is certainly a stylish motorcycle to look at and equally certainly one that can do a whole range of riding, from dayto-day, right up to touring.

This style of motorcycle has pretty much become synonymous with the Moto Guzzi brand. Following on from the California which was ﬁrst released in 1971, Guzzi set about creating mid-size cruisers in order to cater for the new demand which was mostly coming from the US. Guzzi started to produce smaller cruisers in 1979 with the release of the V35. The V35

Coolth on wheels

In a market that emphasises youthful appeal despite the fact that most motorcycle buyers these days are older, the Roamer presents an interesting concept: it is a motorcycle for grownups. This Moto Guzzi can reasonably be described as a Gentleman’s (or Gentle Lady’s) Conveyance. It is a thorough pleasure to ride, without giving away anything in the power (or more accurately torque) stakes. You do not buy into the I’m-faster-than-you competition with a Roamer; instead it’s I’m-cooler-than-you and you’re on a winner from the word go.

The overall look, the riding position, the leather luggage (pity the rear bag isn’t leather as well) and the paint all combine to create a feeling of quality and strength, something that’s backed up by the performance. Style and power. You do not need to feel inadequate in any way on the Roamer. Dare I say that it’s the equivalent of a Zegna suit?

There is, as Miss Piggy would say, just one teensy weensy problem. The switchgear, which works very well, looks as if it’s come out of an early Star Trek episode. Ah well, can’t have everything… PT

New switchgear is very easy to use.

The centre piece!

Merino Wool Thermalz – Topz and Pantz

Reactor Thermal Sleeping Bag Liner

Headliners, Balaclava, Nekz

proudly made for Andy Strapz®

Avduro and Expedition Pannierz

was later replaced by the V50 which boasted improved performance (sound familiar?) and handling characteristics. The V50 was later developed into a V65 and in 1985 superseded by the V75. In 1989 Guzzi introduced the Nevada 750 which is still in production for Europe. From 2007 to 2012 Moto Guzzi added to the Bellagio 940 to its mid-size cruiser line-up, and it is this same mid-sized custom cruiser culture which inspired the all new Moto Guzzi V9.

Since 1967 all Moto Guzzi models have been powered by 90 degree transverse air and oil-cooled V-Twin engines. The 90 degree transverse V-Twin engine offers riding dynamics and an unmistakable sound found on few other motorcycles and this is what makes a Guzzi stand out so much compared to everything else. I can still remember the ﬁrst Guzzi I rode many moons ago; the torque twist from the

engine was an eye opener and it took some getting used to – you’ll either love it or hate it.

This new 90 degree transverse V-Twin 850cc air and oil cooled engine ﬁtted to the V9 features a new aluminium crankcase stiffened at key points, a new oil pan and an inertia calibrated crankshaft for correct engine braking. There are new pistoncooling oil jets with check valve and ﬂow management. The alternator cover is also new and now includes the blow-by gas output.

In the upper part of the engine there are new aluminium heads, pistons and cylinders that are designed to make the most of the engine's characteristics. Distribution is controlled by a pushrod system and there are two valves per cylinder set at an incline in the head (no longer parallel, as on the V7 II engine). The fuel supply uses a one-piece Marelli electronic injection

system with a new electronic engine control unit. Of note is the presence in the entrance heads of the auxiliary air system, which, combined with the three-way catalytic converter, the double oxygen sensor and the total redesign of the engine, bring the twin 850cc into compliance with EU4 standards. This engine boasts both character and responsiveness, which contribute to a really nice riding experience. The torque that has been missing in mid-sized Guzzis is there and this makes open road touring much more relaxing when compared with the V7.

Another new feature of the 850cc engine is the 179 mm diameter single dry plate clutch operating the six-speed gearbox, which still has that smooth and almost elastic type of riding experience. The gear shifting has been improved dramatically over any other Guzzi. Gone is the clunkiness, other

than when you put it into ﬁrst at times, but every other gear change is smooth and almost Japanese-like. To keep all of the torque in check, you get two levels of traction control and you may need it, especially in the wet.

When I ﬁrst looked at the seat on the Roamer, it seemed ﬂat and probably uncomfortable. When I rode the bike, I discovered that it is beautifully comfortable. I was actually a little surprised at its comfort level. With the slightly forward pegs and 785mm seat height you can get into any number of positions while riding solo to get just the comfort right. The handlebar is nicely set, although some riders may prefer it set back slightly, which is easy to do via the clamps.

Finish on the V9 Roamer is a class above. Everything has been thought Roam wherever you’d like.

of but it is the engine which takes centre stage. Guzzi has also introduced new switchgear for the V9. The indicator switch is soft to use and will take a little while to get used to. I actually thought the new switchgear looked a little too modern for the Roamer, but I soon got used to the well-designed layout.

Braking has the latest two-channel ABS from Bosch and offers adequate power and feel. Handling is light and the bike is easy to manage. The large 19 inch front wheel with skinny tyre gives you that light feeling. In the rear is a 16 inch wheel and preload adjustable twin-shocks. You will probably want to increase the preload, depending on your size.

The accessory range doesn’t stop at what is ﬁtted to our test bike. You can get a gel seat for even more comfort, a range of billet items and an exhaust to

really make that transverse twin sing sweet tunes.

The colour choice for the Roamer is orange, white and yellow but those words don’t do it justice. The yellow looks stunning, like looking at the sun with explosions of light blasting off its curves. We tested the orange, which looked like red in any photo I’d seen but is exquisitely orange in sunlight.

SPECS

The V9 Roamer got me all excited when I ﬁrst saw it in photos many months ago, and having now got my backside onto it, I’m happy to report that it is an elegant ride that stands out from the crowd. Expect many droolers crowding around this motorcycle to talk about it with you and that will make you feel really good. Except maybe having to wipe up the drool.

Don’t be fooled, it’s really comfy!

MOTO GUZZI V9 ROAMER

PRICE: $16,500 (ride away)

WARRANTY: Two years, unlimited distance

SERVICING INTERVALS: Every 10,000km or 12 months

ENGINE: Air and oil-cooled V-twin cylinder, 4-stroke, OHV, 2 valves per cylinder

BORE x STROKE: 84 x 74mm

DISPLACEMENT: 853cc

COMPRESSION: 10.5:1

POWER: 40.44kW @ 6250rpm

TORQUE: 62Nm @ 3000rpm

TRANSMISSION: 6-speed, dry single-plate clutch, shaft ﬁnal drive

SUSPENSION: Front, 40mm telescopic fork, non-adjustable, travel 130mm. Rear, twin-shock, adjustable preload, travel 97mm.

DIMENSIONS: Seat height 785mm, weight 199kg (no fuel), fuel capacity 15 litres, wheelbase 1465mm

TYRES: Front, 100/90/R19. Rear, 150/80/R16

FRAME: Steel twin tube cradle

BRAKES: Front, 320mm disc with four-piston ABS caliper. Rear, 260mm disc, dual-piston ABS caliper.

FUEL CONSUMPTION: 4.95 litres per 100km, premium unleaded

THEORETICAL RANGE: 303km

COLOURS: Giallo Solare, Bianco Classico, Rosso Rubino

VERDICT: PURE ELEGANCE

Adelong St, Adelong NSW

T: 02 6946 2009

ADELONG HOTEL

HOLD THE SNAKE/ LOVE THE SNAKE

WORDS/PHOTOS COLIN WHELAN

So anyway I was just starting my third beer when the old bladder demanded I dash out for a snakes’ hiss only to come back and ﬁnd a bloody real one guarding my beer.

A quick check of the head shape and it’s a python and all’s good. I don’t mind snakes, any sort of snakes. I swerve around them when I’m riding and just work around any I ﬁnd when camping. Prefer not to ﬁnd ‘em in my boots in the morning though.

My dad used to say you can’t go killing spiders and then complain about the ﬂies and you can’t squash caterpillars and wish there were more butterﬂies. And I reckon you can’t go killing snakes and bitch about the mice!

And besides I used to have a pet snake. Ollie the Olive Python lived in a glass topped table in my ﬂat in Randwick. I got him as a baby from a breeder up in Gosford who suggested I feed him pinkies, dead new-born mice. Ollie

turned up whatever the herpetological equivalent is of a nose and went hungry. I called the breeder who told me that Ollie must be a bird man and suggested baby ﬁnches. Live baby ﬁnches. So I headed out to the local pet shop and told the bloke what I wanted and why. The lady waiting behind me was outraged but the fella was non-plussed and sold me a cut price bird with bad colouring. Ollie didn't give a bugger about plate appeal, he loved ‘em!

So I’d feed him a live finch every few weeks. If you’ve never watched a python suffocate the life out of a bird or small rodent and then stuff it down its own throat, you seriously need to! Mesmerising! How these beautiful creatures know they have to take it beak first so the feathers don’t ruffle is for me one of the wonders of nature!

So my then ten year old twins would be transﬁxed at feeding time and

damn they loved watching the bulge move down Ollie’s body!

Ollie escaped one day. Slid into the ventilation duct and most likely up into the ceiling cavity. Never found a trace of him. You don’t exactly whistle or call a snake’s name. But if some workman did, if some TV antenna guy or hot water installer came across him in the warm no doubt rodent (and ﬁnch)-free ceiling cavity, I’m pretty sure they’re still talking about it.

PUBOFTHEMONTH

But anyway I come back to the bar at the Adelong Pub and there’s a baby(ish) python, about half the size of Ollie when he slipped away, lounging over my schooie and seeming to not mind too much about the cold glass.

This ﬁne young python belongs to Darren, one of the locals who’s into snakes and just happens to have him in his backpack that night. The serpent’s pretty seductive (got an apple, anyone?) and most folks overcome their fears and give it a stroke.

Darren sits back and smiles.

It’s a midweek night but the joint is jumping. Pat the licensee and Donna are working the bar serving a crew of mostly locals and a couple of visiting contractors. Pretty typical mob for a county pub.

Pat and her partner, Mick took over the lease in April ’15 so it’s a bit over a year since they came down from Cairns, bit the bullet and began living their dream of running their ﬁrst country pub.

They serve pizzas throughout the day but the menu doesn’t offer a meat lovers with snake so I go for four seasons and another beer as Darren and his baby says ‘see ya’ and a few others head out and Pat ﬁnds a moment to sit down for a chat.

Apart from the pizzas there’s not really a restaurant going although if you’re turning up with a mob and ring ahead, they’ll turn on a feed for you.

Pat’s not shy about sharing that the other pub in town, the Royal Hotel just at the end of the block has a very good restaurant which is open for dinners Wednesday through Sunday and for lunch Thursday to Sunday.

The Royal’s known as the ‘Top Pub’ and this place despite being the only other place in town is called the, ‘middle pub’.

Yeah, there used to be three but the Gold Reef Hotel a bit to the west closed down in 1979 and it was the ‘bottom pub’. One day maybe the Adelong will take this moniker, just not anytime soon. Things don’t work that fast in the country. (It’s only been like this for 37 years for godsake!)

There’s 7 rooms upstairs, 5 doubles and 2 singles but no twins. On your own you’ll pay ﬁfty bucks and a double’s just

20 more. All rooms have radiators and ceiling fans and TVs (which I always think is a waste of cash). A couple have full aircon.

The rooms ain’t huge but they’re comfortable and clean.

And they don't have those piddling thin hooks that piss you off by holding your jacket for 2.7 seconds before busting and leaving you feeling guilty. These ones are strong and well anchored so my jacket gets a rare night off the ﬂoor.

There’s all the makings for toast and a brew upstairs but again Pat tells of the café just a couple of doors up. In the morning the sun streams into the Adelong Café as I hoe into a decent brew and some top eggs n bacon

Bikers don’t get charged for throwing a swag in the garden out back and the showers are free also (BYO towel!), and you can park uncovered but chained-in out there as well.

If you like donating to Australian or international betting gambling big business, there’s Sky Racing on the screens and TAB terminals in the bar plus a pair of pokies.

Just as we’re wrapping it up, Darren returns with a bag over his shoulder. And it looks heavy.

‘Thought you might be interested in meeting another of me friends.”

Darren unzips the bag and lifts/ unfurls/unwinds/reveals/introduces a beautiful adult python.

Pythons are a bit like dogs so I do what I do with strange canines and extend the

hand and tap it gently on the nose to give it my scent.

The end of the bar empties due in roughly equal parts to respect and fear and soon the snake is easing itself over the beer taps and posing up for my camera, seeming to not mind the cold pipes in the slightest.

Some of locals line up to have it hung over their shoulders and the more squeamish dredge up the courage to pat it.

I tell Darren about Ollie and his fortnightly ﬁnches and he swaps that this fella takes a whole full-sized chicken every couple of weeks.

For some reason my head ﬁlls with that old line about the difference between erotic and kinky…. Erotic is using a feather, kinky is using the whole chook.

The mob following the races forget the dogs, the smokers come in from outside and everyone’s having a great old time around this 2 metre reptile.

Just another night in another pub!

Eventually it all quietens down and I head upstairs. The shared toilets and showers are all clean and the water’s got good pressure and good heat. The bed’s welcoming and after 11.00pm the trucks die off and it’s all quiet.

It’s been a few months since all this fun and the other day when I rang to check a couple of facts Donna answered the phone. It hadn’t worked out for Pat and Mick. Despite their best efforts their dream of running their

Love it

Pushed up by its free swagging for riders and the facility to park your rides within the pub’s grounds behind a locked chain, the Adelong Hotel squeezed into the four helmet category. Increased custom will see its restaurant opening up offering a full service but in the meantime, the town has other nearby options to take up the slack.

A motorcyclist friendly pub in a friendly town set amongst some of the best riding roads in the entire country: what’s not to love?

own country pub had crashed around them and they’ve moved on.

Donna’s now running the place until the owners can ﬁnd a permanent manager/licensee and I’m sure she’s doing a great job.

But that’s how fragile many country pubs are. That’s how much pubs which offer riders discounts and special treatment deserve our support.

You might not get a snake every time you drop into the Adelong Hotel but to get there you’ll have ridden some of the best serpentine roads in Australia. And on arrival you’ll be welcomed into a pub which values your custom and you’ll be in a town which offers all you’ll need for a great stay.

Disclaimer: Contrary to standard industry practice, I did not seek, nor was I offered any freebie, discount or special enticement to write nice stuff about this pub. As ever I thank my HR department for their inspiration =

PORT

AUGUSTA TO ALICE SPRINGS

PART 1: RIDING FROM PORT AUGUSTA TO DARWIN ON THE STUART HWY.

It’s one of the must-do rides for any serious motorcycle tourer: right up the guts, from Port Augusta to Darwin, bisecting this country into east and west. I don’t reckon too many riders actually start from Port Augusta which, let’s face it, is a pretty ordinary place. But no matter if you’ve come across from the east via Broken Hill, up from Adelaide

or across from Perth the best place to spend the night before heading up the centre is Wilmington so that’s where we’ll start.

WILMINGTON

One of the friendliest towns with the friendliest locals and a great place to gather yourself before your ride north, or to recover after a ride south from the top end. Every time I’ve been there I’ve ended up somewhere like a shearing shed going at top gallop, or out with sheep dogs working a ﬂock. Don’t waste your time not talking with the locals!

The Caltex only sells 91. If you have time and feel like some twisties head south and take the sign for Alligator Gorge which is 12kms down the track. Good ride but some speed bumps! Wilmington Hotel; 08 8667 5154.

PORT AUGUSTA

Got everything you need except a personality! The best fuel is to the south of the town and the best food and drink pub for mine is the Hannahville at 30 Gibson St which serves very good tucker and wines

www.hemamaps.com.au

PORT AUGUSTA TO ALICE SPRINGS

Head north from the Wilmington Pub and take the well signposted left for Port Augusta. Enjoy the hills, the bends and the curves through Horrocks Pass coz you won’t be bending it over like this again for a while!

Once you’ve cleared the last of the Adelaide Hills and see Spencer Gulf in front of you, roll down the slope, cross the railway line and take the right at the T onto the A1 and the 20km ride into Port.

Best to ﬁll up at the servos and truck stops on the south end of Port Augusta and then continue straight as the A1 morphs into the A87 which is the Stuart Hwy.

If you’re using a Garmin and have set Alice Springs in as your destination, your front page will be telling you to turn in 999km because there’s only three digits available. Obviously these things aren’t designed in/for Aussie! But if you want to get a real idea of how far you have to go before turning, ﬂick to the second screen which for some reason has four digits. It should show a tick over 1200km!

About 65km out of Port you’ll come to the Ranges View Rest and Free Camping area which is a decent place to camp but a bit close to the road for my liking.

TEAR-OUT MAP #43

Then 110km further north you get to Pimba, the turnoff for Woomera and Roxby Downs and you’ll ﬁnd Spud’s Roadhouse on the corner. If you’ve still got 115km in the tank, and prefer friendly service, it’s an idea to keep heading up to Glendambo. You’re now in amongst some of the great salt lakes of South Australia and depending on their levels, you’ll get some wonderful photos as the land turns harsher. Seventy kilometres shy of Glendambo is the Lake Hart Free Camping area on the northern side of the road. This is huge and you can get right away from the highway and throw down your tent or swag with what can seem like ocean views.

A top spot for a break even if you’re not overnighting before you get to Glendambo.

Doesn’t really matter if you ﬁlled at Pimba because with Coober Pedy, the next place north of here, being over 250km away, both your bike and you are going to need to top up your ﬂuids.

From Glendambo the Stuart swings from its westerly path back northward for the two hour ride into Coober Pedy. Eighty ﬁve kilometres north from Glen you’ll ﬁnd the Bon Bon Rest and Free Camping area on the eastern side of the road and then it’s

another 170km into Coober Pedy. You’ll be welcomed into Coober by the old truck mounted mining rig on your left and then a few hundred metres later take the well signposted right onto Hutchinson St and into the town of Coober Pedy. You’ll ﬁnd the Shell Servo on your left.

To restart your trip north just retrace your route back on Hutchinson and turn right back onto the Stuart. Again, make sure all your ﬂuids are full!

You’ve now got 235km to Marla, your last town in South Australia before crossing into NT 159km to the north. (The crossing monument is to your west.)

Kulgera, some 55km north is your ﬁrst town in the Territory and it’s well signposted to your east.

Erldunda Roadhouse is now just 116km north and 30 odd kilometres further you’ll ﬁnd the Desert Oaks Free Camp on the western side of the road and then another 80km (after you pass the Finke Free Camp) to Stuart’s Well Servo and Hotel.

From here it’s an easy 90km to where the lonely old Drive-In and the wonderful cutting welcome you into Alice.

A fully detailed downloadable .gpx map of this route is available at my website: www.motorbikenation.com.

with a smile! The IGA is to your west just north of the bridge over Spencer Gulf. If your bike is needing anything, Northern Motorcycles are at 72 Stirling; 08 8642 5551.

PIMBA

Looking for friendly professional service? Don’t stop at Spud’s at Pimba! Keep heading north unless you absolutely need fuel. Have yet to be there and not be made to feel like I’m interrupting their day.

GLENDAMBO

The welcoming sign back at Pimba (hopefully you missed it) reads, “Strictly no parking bikes on verandah”. The sign here reads: “Population 30, Sheep 22,500, Flies 2,000,000 (approx.)” and those two signs capture the difference in attitude between the two places. You’ll get a good feed here and uniquely along the Stuart, they sell 91, 95 and 98 grades of fuel.

COOBER PEDY

One of my all-time favourite outback towns. The most extraordinary

accommodation is at Riba’s Underground Camping, 5km south of the town on William Creek Rd. You’re not going to throw your tent or swag elsewhere in anywhere like this! The Shell servo on the left on the way into town has a great restaurant but for fuel you’re better off going to the much friendlier BP in the town centre. They sell 91 and 95.

MARLA

Marla is where the Oodnadatta Track comes out and if you have the time, hang out and some hard core adventurers will be sure to come by. Like all servos here, the restaurant is licensed and the servo has 91 and 98.

KULGERA

Best roadside bar on the ride for mine. Great host and staff and real cold drinks. Servo sells 91 and 95.

STUARTS WELL

If you don’t want to stay right in Alice, this is a great option. Good clean, owner-run and friendly. You can throw a swag out back for nix but for just ten

bucks you can camp or swag on the grass with showers thrown in. Budget rooms are just 40 bucks a head and the restaurant is open for all lunches and dinners. Oh and there’s a pool and the servo has 91 and 95; 08 8956 0808.

ALICE SPRINGS

If you absolutely need to stay in town, the Aurora Hotel on Leichhardt offers secure lockup parking (which you want here). Desert Edge Motorcycles at 23 George Cres; 08 8953 7711 will be able to ﬁx any problems you might have with your bike.

I never visit the Alice without heading west through some amazing country to Ellery Big Hole for a swim. At the north end of town turn west off the Stuart onto Larapinta Drive, signposted Hermannsburg and Glen Helen, and follow this for 46km then take the right for Glen Helen and keep going for 40km until you see the brown sign pointing right for Ellery Big Hole. One km down here and you’ll be at one of the best swimming holes in the outback.

Ifyou need, sorry, want to treat your wife, girlfriend or secretary to a romantic weekend away but can't think of anything that the two of you will appreciate, then here’s something that will make you both get to the airport and be gone faster than a twinkie at a weight watchers meeting. Recently I had to ….err I mean felt that it would be a good idea to take my wife away (my secretary and girlfriend were both busy) for a “dirty” weekend. I had a look online and most hotels interstate were stupidly expensive plus the cost of flights added to the financial pain. While I was searching for options I got an alert that there were reduced flights to Queenstown, New Zealand! Straight away I thought: “this is it”. That's where we are headed. We both love that place and if I'm going to be walking around shops with my wife racking up the stress on the credit card, there's no place I'd rather do it. Without any hesitation I booked two tickets and it was at that particular moment I thought... “What, no riding?” I immediately looked at things to do or places to see and car hire etc. Before too long I came across the Offroad Adventures Queenstown webpage (www.offroad.co.nz) and noticed a selection of tours advertised on their site. Then I thought, my wife can't ride how about a "side by side" adventure? After realising what I’d just thought, I noticed that they hired adventure bikes! That's it, let's hire a bike and explore the local roads. This was actually the first time I thought I was onto something, beside that one time at band camp!

After getting in touch with the guys at Offroad Adventures Queenstown I was put onto Lachie Columb, brother of multiple NZ MX champion Scott Columb and renowned female Downhill MTB rider Alanna Columb. Lachie tells me that he has an XT1200z Super Tenere among the horses in his stable and it'll do anything you ask of it. Where did you plan on going, he asks? Just up to the Remarkables’ ski ﬁeld and possibly Coronet? What are your thoughts, I ask?

He starts by telling me "You need to ride the Glenorchy Road" it's voted

travel

From the Better Half

One morning as I was dropping our daughter at school, I got an excited phone call from my husband to say that he’d just booked tickets for us to go to Queenstown for a sneaky long weekend away. Awesome… we had been to Queenstown for a wedding a couple of years earlier and in our eyes, that place is one of the most beautiful we’ve ever been to. Last time we were there “we” tested a fabulous new road bike and it was a really cool way to combine his love of bikes and a chance to see this beautiful place. So this time the thought of re-creating that on an adventure bike and having some much needed “parent time” was something to look forward to. On arrival to Queenstown we immediately fell in love with it (and each other) again. Although only a three hour ﬂight from home, it really is the most spectacular place. On that ﬁrst afternoon we explored some bars and restaurants and pretended we were 26 again. We picked up the adventure bike and took a quick ride up to the Remarkables which overlook Queenstown. It was so beautiful. The adventure riding over the next day was loads of fun, albeit a little cold early in the morning, the beauty of the landscapes along the way made it so worth it.

There’s so much to do in Queenstown even if you don’t ride bikes. From the extreme adventures like jet boating and bungee jumping, to exploring the restaurants and cafés. A quick escape to this beautiful place will do wonders for you and your relationship and we are deﬁnitely keen to keep Queenstown on our annual “must do” list.

one of the most picturesque roads in the world! And here's the pitch: the road bike guys have to turn around at Glenorchy but you can keep going along to the end of the dirt road on the other side of town then follow it all the way to the glacial start of the Dart River. It's an awesome ride. Or you can ride up and over the crown range and head out to Mount Aspiring through Wanaka or there's and there's...” At that point I'm like... I get it! Book me in for a 24hr hire of the "Super T".

As you can imagine this has all taken place in the same amount of time it takes for most women to read a motorcycle magazine. Less than 5 minutes, right? Now it was up to me to sell the idea to the "ﬁnancial controller"! This is always the hard part in any relationship, right? Well, that's what I thought until I mentioned "overseas, passport and shopping". It was approved straight away and there was even a glimmer in her eye. What a moment to cherish!

Due to our late afternoon arrival into Queenstown we cabbed it straight from the airport to our accommodation then walked to the Offroad Adventures shop which is conveniently located along the main street of Queenstown. Literally within an hour after arriving we were on the bike ascending to the Remarkables ski ﬁeld and car park which is east of Queenstown and amounts to a 45 minute ride from the centre of town. As it was February and the off season there wasn’t a whole lot to do at the top but the views were… Remarkable! (Yes, I had to!)

We didn't ride that much on the ﬁrst day which I was okay with, as Friday was the arrival day and it was more about wining and dining and that magical 2 minutes “special time” before sleeping. Apart from the staggering beauty all around, there are food and wine options in this cute little village to suit everyone’s taste and we made sure we found some little gems. Early the next morning it was onto the bike straight away, with the overnight chill still lingering in the shadows keeping us feeling revitalised. The road is just 45k long from Queenstown to Glenorchy and is truly

amazing, with scenery to impress. There’s roads to hug and corners to worship!

My word of advice is to rug up and start early! Get on the road and enjoy it before the tourists start ruining every kilometre and corner within sight. Also watch out for the locals heading into Queenstown as they drive at F1 pace! When you arrive in Glenorchy, which is at the northern end of Lake Wakatipu, head to Glenorchy Cafe on Mull Street opposite the service station for a coffee and some handmade treats to warm the enthusiasm again. Back on the road, look for the "Glenorchy - Paradise" road signs and head towards Paradise. Once you get past Paradise it soon turns to dirt getting a little more exciting, and depending on the season there’s a chance of a water crossing or two and the occasional farm animal confrontation along the way. Once you're at the end, around a 30min trek once you hit the dirt, you are quite literally in the middle of nowhere and you’ll understand why they used it to shoot “Lord Of The Rings” there. The run down and back isn’t very technical and will provide plenty of amazing scenery for the two of you to ogle at. Remember by this time your run back into Queenstown will be chock full of Tourist Campers and the occasional local steering his farm ute at a pace that would put him on the front row of any V8 Supercar race. Stop and get a selﬁe along the way depending on the weather as there are loads of opportunities to have a snow capped background.

You can do one of two things once you’re back in Queenstown. There is a short run out to the historic mining village of Arrowtown, having lunch at Millbrook Resort or one of many trendy locations in the main street before heading back to Queenstown via Jack’s Point for afternoon tea. On the backroad to Arrowtown you head past Coronet Peak turnoff and depending on the time of year it’s a good run up to the lodge and back down if you have time, with some great views from the top as well. Be warned as there really isn’t anything to eat when you’re at the top plus it’ll be

chilly. Another good stop along the way is the Shotover River Jet boat rides at Arthurs Point.

The other ride is out to Wanaka via the Crown Range, passing through Cardrona along the way. The Cardrona Pub is perfectly located for a drink along the way maybe even lunch if you don’t think you can make it to Wanaka. The Crown Range is nice and smooth with good grip levels and corners to match. Mind you, in recent years they have dropped the speed limit to 80km/h so be on the lookout. After Cardrona the road opens up becoming a little more straight giving you time to relax and let your tastebuds decide on the venue for lunch or afternoon tea at Wanaka. The Federal Diner is great with its American inspired menu and makes for a hearty feed before looking around town and heading back to Queenstown in time to see the sunset across Lake Wakatipu with a beer. It was a top day out travelling on the bike and the “Super T” does the kilometres easily and in comfort. Offroad Adventures has a variety of bikes for hire and there are lots of places to ride and explore, all within close proximity. For example we could have spent the entire day in the Glenorchy area travelling along both sides of the lake, also (this is a suggestion… don’t hold it against me) hiking along one of the many walking trails in that area. As long as there is fuel and motorcycles I’ll be sticking to riding!

So there you have it, two night’s accommodation, ﬂights and bike hire and you can experience a completely different part of the world from under $1000 if you plan your ﬂights and accommodation well in advance. It’s also a quick way to earn a couple of brownie points and look like you’ve won lotto all in one. Remember these are all just suggestions for the awesome location of Queenstown, plus there’s no need to get an adventure bike if you’re going to stay on the road, but you do have loads more options if you go with the adventure bike. Your next adventure is only a couple of minutes and your credit card away, get online and check it out. =

Ducati Scrambler Sixty2

Ducati turned the world on big-time with the hype and fanfare they made about the release of the Scrambler – The Bear for one went straight out and bought one. Following that success (other people bought them too) they went on to create a spin-off from the full-sized Scrambler in the form of the Sixty2.

It might be half the engine size, yet the bikes look remarkably similar – that’s great for LAMS riders and those after a more sedate retro motorcycle; it’s also

great for Ducati’s bottom line.

Taking on a bit of the old school BMX culture, the source of the stars used on the tank of the Sixty2, the logo features four of them to represent the 400cc engine. So this might be a smaller version of the current Scrambler, but it’s still larger than the bike after which it is named – the 250cc Scrambler launched in 1962 and aimed at the US market.

The engine of the Sixty2 looks like the same L-twin as the full-sized Scrambler’s on the outside, so how did Ducati

squeeze it down to only 399cc? A reduced 72mm bore and very short 49mm stroke is how. Performance is consistent throughout the rev range with a decent amount of torque so that you can have it in a higher gear than you might expect at times for an easy ride. My only gripe is that for beginner riders, going from a closed throttle to just open can be a little jerky. All other throttle openings are very smooth. A change to a freer-flowing air filter might fix this. One difference that quickly separates the Sixty2 from its big brother is the

Li’L’ Bro hoLds his own words s tuart Photos n ick wood

2-into-1exhaust with the front pipe offering a 'low-slung' look. The rear header goes straight down into the collector box. It’s interesting that the front cylinder gets quite hot, whereas the rear doesn’t – you would think it would be the other way round, the way the front cylinder hangs out in the breeze. This is not the only major difference from big bro. The Sixty2 has telescopic, not upside-down, forks as well as a two-piston front caliper that isn’t radial mounted, and a skinnier 160/60 rear tyre. The rear swingarm is made of tubular steel versus the cast aluminium item ﬁtted to big brother.

The differences give the Sixty2 a more agile feel despite only being 3kg lighter than the lightest full-size Scrambler, the Icon. With the lighter forks and

rear shock as well as a 15mm longer wheelbase, it should be less responsive. In fact, the forks and rear shock don’t feel as harsh as big brother’s – maybe Ducati took note of owners who reported suspension that was not quite as nice as it might be?

Braking on the Sixty2 features a Bosch 9.1 MP ABS system with internal pressure sensor. To combine stopping performance with minimalist styling, the front wheel has a single 320mm (down 10mm versus big bro) disc with a 2-piston ﬂoating caliper. At the back, the Sixty2 shares a 245mm disc and singlepiston caliper with big brother. Power is bang on for beginner riders, with nothing over the top to get things out of control.

Ergonomics are the same as big brother’s with the ﬂat seat and high and

wide handlebar. The bar is great for excellent control at all speeds and/or level of riding experience.

Accessories are extensive and very tasty. So if you want to spend the money, you really can make the Sixty2 a unique and individual machine.

Ducati Sixty2 is a Scrambler inspired by youth street culture, skateboards, street food, pop music and, above all, the pop art that, back in 1962 was taking the United States by storm. You could say this is an inner city dweller’s retro ride; that’s probably who will be buying this bike. =

Stuart is wearing a Shoei J.O open face, Dririder Scrambler jacket, Held Satu gloves, Draggin jeans and Dririder iRide 2 boots.

SPECS

DUCATI SIXTY2

PRICE: $11,990 (plus on-road charges)

WARRANTY: Two years, unlimited distance

SERVICING INTERVALS: Every 12,000km or 12 months

ENGINE: Air-cooled L-twin cylinder, 4-stroke, Desmodromic, 2 valves per cylinder

BORE x STROKE: 72 x 49mm

DISPLACEMENT: 399cc

COMPRESSION: 10.7:1

POWER: 30.2kW @ 8750rpm

TORQUE: 34.6Nm @ 8000rpm

TRANSMISSION: 6-speed, wet multi-plate clutch, chain ﬁnal drive

SUSPENSION: Front, 41mm

telescopic fork, non-adjustable, travel 150mm. Rear, monoshock, adjustable preload, travel 150mm.

DIMENSIONS: Seat height 790mm, weight 183kg (wet), fuel capacity 14 litres, wheelbase 1460mm

TYRES: Front, 110/80/R18. Rear, 160/60/R17

FRAME: Tubular steel

BRAKES: Front, 320mm disc with dual-piston ABS caliper. Rear, 245mm disc, single-piston ABS caliper.

FUEL CONSUMPTION: 5.13 litres per 100km, premium unleaded

THEORETICAL RANGE: 272km

COLOURS: Atomic Tangerine, Ocean Grey, Shining Black

VERDICT: STEP UP FROM YOUR BMX

Pick from three colour choices

Low slung exhaust looks cool

Different swingarm to big brother

THE PAPER TIGER

PAPERWORK… AARGH!

WORDS THE BEAR & GET ROUTED’S DAVE MILLIGAN

Howbad can paperwork be? Good question; I wish there was a good (happy) answer, at least where shifting motorcycles around is concerned. Be warned: this article can be quite frustrating to read. At least it’s also funny in places…

The paperwork problem arises mostly at borders and is most critical there – how would you like to be told to go back to the country you’ve just left when your visa for that country has expired? That’s happened to me, and it was just a little bit of a worry there for a while. Especially as it was in the Sahara…

But let’s go through the paperwork you are actually going to need, and where you’ll need it.

If you’re travelling in Australia, your rider’s licence and the registration papers of the bike are all you really want. If the bike belongs to you, I think you can probably forget about the rego papers as well; the cops all over Australia are now tied into a computer system which will tell them quickly enough who owns the bike, and if it is properly registered. On the other hand it may still be a legal requirement, so play it safe. It costs nothing.

While we’re on the subject of computer systems: unlike New Zealand, not all overseas countries

have information readily available on the web about arriving at the border with your motorcycle. We have tried to make the listings below as comprehensive as we can, but don’t rely on them entirely. For one thing, they can change quite quickly. It’s probably a good idea to do some checking on the interwebs.

UnzUd

Take your bike to New Zealand for a ride and you will need to get yourself – or rather the bike - a WoF. The Warrant of Fitness is exactly that, and guarantees that your bike meets New Zealand’s roadworthiness requirements. If you send your bike over with Dave Milligan’s Get Routed, he will arrange this for you along with the temporary import entry, which replaces the Carnet.

“Bike owners still have to stump up a monetary bond for the time the bike is in NZ,” Milligan says. “The bond is 15% of the owner’s declared value - no need for a registered valuation - and is collected by Get Routed by emailed invoice a month before loading day in Australia. Payment of that invoice is required no later than two weeks before loading day. Most people pay by direct debit internet banking.

“All other export and import

“What the hell does he mean ‘tiger’?”

paperwork is handled by Get Routed except for the Vehicle Import Approval document which a bike owner must apply for - costs $50 per application but, you can put up to 10 bikes on an application. This makes the return of the bike to Australia considerably easier.

“Refund of 15% bond happens as soon as the returning shipment vessel departs NZ waters. Unzud Customs releases the bond money to Get Routed and refund cheques are posted to the bike owners before the bikes arrive back at the destination port.”

There are several advantages to using Get Routed rather than a general shipping agent. For one thing, Milligan takes care of the paperwork and makes it cheaper; for a Carnet you’ll need a registered valuation and a deposit of 25% of that (see below). For another, it has an arrangement through Insurance broker Bernie Ryan for Fully Comprehensive bike insurance in New Zealand for its clientele.

Your Australian licence will see you through for 12 months. After that, if you can’t ﬁnd your way to the airport, you’ll need to convert it to an Unzud one.

USA

Ah yes, some years ago it was easy to get a bike into the United States. Paperwork was ignored, and the only person who showed any concern at all was the lady from the Dept of Agriculture, who made sure that the bike was clean as a whistle. If not, it was steam cleaned at your expense. That got me and my XL250, on which the registration had long run out (I mean “long”, as in three years) and which had last been insured in Afghanistan as a minibus, into the US easily.

‘T ain’t so now.

While the USA does not require a Carnet, Third Party insurance coverage is compulsory. Unless you can somehow produce a US address, this can pose a problem. Fortunately, Get Routed has access for Fully Comprehensive insurance for Aussie bikes in the UK & Europe and USA and Canada,” says Milligan.

“Altogether,” he continues, “there are ﬁve documents bike owners need to complete and sign to get their bike into the USA. Regulations require that bike owners complete and sign the forms, but Get Routed collects them and sends them for processing through a Customs Broker.”

What are the documents? US

Customs and Border Protection (CBP) says that they include “the shipper's or carrier's original bill of lading, the bill of sale (presumably proof of ownership instead if you’re importing the bike temporarily), foreign registration, and any other documents covering the vehicle.

In theory, “you will also be required to complete EPA form 3520-1 and DOT form HS-7, declaring the emissions and safety provisions under which the vehicle is being imported.” Vehicles must meet all US emission requirements, and “bear (a) manufacturer's label on the engine compartment in English, attesting to that fact. For vehicles that lack such a label, the CBP inspector at the port of entry may require proof of eligibility to import under the EPA exemptions or exclusions speciﬁed on form 3520-1.”

However, there is a way out of that. “Nonresidents may import a vehicle duty-free for personal use up to (1) one year if the vehicle is imported in conjunction with the owner's arrival,” says CBP. “Vehicles imported under this provision that do not conform to US safety and emission standards must be exported within one year and may not be sold in the US.”

So you’d better not plan to stay for longer than 12 months. “There are no exceptions or extensions.”

If you do, you’ll run out of time on your driver’s licence, too. A year is the limit for riding on a foreign one. “Motorists visiting the United States as tourists from countries that have ratiﬁed the Convention on International Road Trafﬁc of 1949 may drive in the US for one year with their own national license plates (registration tags) on their own national license plates (registration tags) on their cars and with their own personal drivers' licenses,” says CBP. Should you be interested in taking your own World’s Fastest Indian or any other brand for a run at Bonneville or elsewhere in the US, you can. It’s possible for bikes “temporarily imported for testing, demonstration, or competition, provided they are not licensed for use, or driven on public roads. These vehicles may be operated on public roads or highways provided the operations are an integral part of the test. Parties responsible for such vehicles must submit proper documents - forms EPA 3520-1 and DOT HS-7 - to CBP at the time entry is made. Also, applicable written approvals from these agencies must be obtained in advance and presented to CBP along with these forms.”

EU

As in the US, Third Party insurance coverage is a must, says Milligan. Also like the US, it can be difﬁcult to get but Get Routed can provide Fully Comprehensive insurance (which includes Third Party) and will sort out any other paperwork as well. Other than that, paperwork is quite

limited but you can only use the bike for six months, not the 12 that most other countries allow you. This may be consecutive or per year. Regulations may differ between countries in the EU, but since movement between EU member countries is free once you’re in, that probably doesn’t matter much. I have had no problems.

You must also display a nationality plate alongside your national number plate.

OthErS

There are countries which welcome motorcyclists just like they welcome anyone else, but there are also countries which simply don’t want you and your steed. Vietnam and China fall into the latter category. Frankly, it’s just too much trouble to get a bike into either, but that doesn’t mean it’s impossible. The story goes that there is one border crossing from Laos, in the far north, where even R 1200 GSs have been allowed entry, after some “negotiation”. However, they were swiftly sent back once they reached a major centre and were spotted by police. Believe me, a big BMW stands out! One bloke whom I vaguely know managed to ride his bike across the Chinese border from Pakistan. He got quite a way into China, avoiding police posts whenever possible, until he, too, was sent back. Funnily enough, the police chief where he was caught made a deal with him. He had to promise he’d head straight back to the border and stay out of ofﬁcials’ sight along the way – or he’d get thrown straight into gaol.

Do you need an International Driving Permit (not license)? No. Yes. Possibly; it depends on where you go. In the US it is considered “a valuable asset” according to CBP, but it does not seem to be legally required. In most of the world it has become unnecessary since we started putting photos on our own licences. And until recently I would have said that there was no point in buying one (you get them from the same place as your Carnet). Then I discovered, courtesy of my friend at IMTBike Tours, that not having one in Spain would get you

arrested and your bike immobilised. So you’ll want one for Spain. What does that boil down to? If you’re only going to one or two countries, check with their embassies or consulates. If you’re going to visit several, get a Permit just to be on the safe side.

Generally, your Australian motorcycle licence will be all you need to allow you to ride overseas. Not everywhere, though, last time I looked.

The People’s Republic of China (PRC), beﬁtting this status as the centre of the world, will not accept either other national licenses or International Driving Permits. You will have to pass the local riding test, which is not easy but which gives you a six year licence, according to China tour operator Mike Esdaile. It is possible for tour operators to work their way around that by arranging for you to do a test for a temporary licence. Don’t kid yourself that this is a formality, by the way; when I did my Chinese licence someone in our group did fail.

Most other countries are more welcoming. If you have a carnet you will probably be allowed in. That leaves insurance, though. Some people recommend getting some kind of international insurance but all I can say is “good luck”. Both getting it in the ﬁrst place and then having it recognised in Baluchistan might be problematic.

My “policy” has been to rock up to the border, look blank when asked for insurance and then producing my NSW rego slip, which includes Third Party (not valid outside Australia, of course). That hasn’t always worked, for instance when entering Afghanistan, but it’s been pretty useful otherwise. You can also show your travel insurance policy and hope the border guard doesn’t read much English.

Failing that, you can always pay for the insurance. Am I being irresponsible here? Well, maybe. Considering that the only alternative is staying home, pretty much, it’s your call.

Now, about the CarNet de Passage

A Carnet de Passage has been described as a passport for a vehicle. There is some truth in that, but

check Milligan’s explanation:

“To obtain a Carnet in Australia the various motoring bodies (RACV, NRMA, RACQ etc) branch ofﬁces have the application forms and a completed application form together with the appropriate documentation and monetary bond goes back to that same motoring body ofﬁce for processing thru the Australian Automobile Association in Canberra. The AAA actually provides the Carnets. It's an internationally recognised legal document and as such must be provided by a central government body with the appropriate governmental authority.

“The appropriate documentation includes proof of ownership and a current registered valuation of the bike. The monetary bond amounts to 25% of the value of the bike (as per the valuation) and must be stumped up with the Carnet application - this must be done 6 - 8 weeks prior to actual export date from Australia to give time for the AAA to produce a Carnet.

“The 25% bond is only refunded once the shipment is unpacked back in Australia and Aust Customs have (maybe) inspected the bike and stamped the Carnet and released the bike. At this stage the Carnet must be returned to the motoring body ofﬁce from whence it came and then be sent to the AAA in Canberra for discharging of the Carnet and processing the refund. This usually takes between 4 and 6 weeks.

“The actual Carnet document must be provided to Aust Customs at the port of loading approx 1 week prior to container loading - this is to allow Aust Customs to inspect the bike if they decide that is necessary at the time. The Carnet is then stamped by Aust Customs and then needs to be couriered (at the bike owners expense) to NZ Customs (for example) in time for the clearance when the container arrives at the destination port. Because the shipping time can be anywhere between 4 and 10 days (depending

where the bike is being shipped from and to) getting the Carnet over there can be critical. For that reason it's best to employ Customs Brokers at each end to smooth the process - this adds to the cost considerably ($300 or $400 at each end), but for 99% of people it will save a considerable headache.

h ow a N d what do we k N ow?

The Bear has dealt with just about any conceivable hassle at borders all over the world, and Milligan deals with them all the time when shipping bikes to New Zealand, the US and Europe. Oh, and Britain. I guess it isn’t going to be part of Europe at some stage, so we might as well get used to it. But there’s more to think about, says Milligan.

“People doing their own bike shipping need to be aware that whichever freight forwarder they use, their crated bike will go into a consolidated general freight container and the bike owner and their freight forwarder will have absolutely no control how the crated bike is loaded into that container - it could have a ton of steel rods on top of the crate.

“General freight containers are loaded in Brisbane, Sydney, Melbourne, Adelaide, Perth and some smaller places, but there is nil or very little consideration for your precious bike given by the people who load the containers - it is expected that the bike owner will take responsibility and fully Marine cover insure the bike whilst in transit. Many, many bikes shipped in general freight containers have been found at the destination to be damaged and the freight industry, generally does not give a stuff.”

Sadly he is right, again. Some people overcome this problem by shipping their bikes by air (if such a thing is possible). That tends to mean more care, but it also means more money. And it doesn’t always work; my XL arrived in the US lying on its side with bent shock absorbers where something heavy had been dropped on it. =

“Fashion be damned, I’m going for safety!” Model at Stein’s Motorcycle Museum, Mudgee. Photo: The Bear.

Wecan, we’re often told, thank Lawrence of Arabia for the existence of motorcycle helmets. On the 13th of May 1935, he dodged to miss that boy on the bicycle and ﬂew over the handlebar of his Brough Superior SS100. It is difﬁcult to determine whether his death six days later was due to head injuries alone, but one of the doctors attending him in his last days, Australian neurosurgeon Hugh Cairns, was concerned enough to go on to research motorcycle head injuries and inspire the increased use of motorcycle helmets.

“Increased use”? Well, it seems that motorcycle helmets were actually invented by another medico, Dr Eric Gardner, quite a few years earlier. He attended crash victims from Brooklands race track in 1914, and after noticing the prevalence of head injuries commissioned a, Mr Moss to make helmets from canvas and shellac. One of the ﬁrst lives one of these saved seems to have been at the Isle of Man TT in the same year.

Their origin is not the only aspect of motorcycle helmets shrouded in misunderstanding and downright mythology. The European MAIDS (Motorcycle Accidents In Depth Study) report of 2009 did not back up common claims that helmet colour makes any difference in

HELMETS

AGV www.cassons.com.au

K-5 - $529.95 - $549.95

AGV continues renewing its range, this time it's the K-5, now with much more comfort. The shell is made of fibreglass and carbon fibre and guarantees resistance and lightness while the lines are aerodynamic and streamlined in true AGV style. A perfect fit and easily operated inner visor ensure complete rider comfort. Size is minimized thanks to design studies carried out on racing helmets

accident frequency, and noted that in fact motorcycles painted white were actually over-represented in the accident sample compared to the exposure data.

While recognising how much riders need to be seen, the MAIDS report demonstrated that riders’ clothing usually fails to help, saying that “in 65.3% of all cases, the clothing made no contribution to the conspicuity of the rider or the PTW [Powered TwoWheeler]. There were very few cases found in which the bright clothing of the PTW rider enhanced the PTW’s overall conspicuity (46 cases). There were more cases in which the use of dark clothing decreased the conspicuity of the rider and the PTW (120 cases).”

If that sounds a bit weird – like, so what do we actually do? - then join the club of people who don’t understand how these conclusions could be drawn. What’s more, the MAIDS report was unable to recommend speciﬁc items of clothing or colours to make riders better seen. But apparently white and bright colours don’t work. So much for ﬂuoro clothes and helmets.

As for the question of increased safety of full face over open face helmets, the answer seems to be “nobody really knows”. Keep in mind that the Australian standard, along with many others, does not test

and the integrated rear spoiler provides excellent stability even at high speed. The K-5 is an excellent sport touring helmet.

helmets below, roughly, the level of your ear canal. So the chin piece could be tinfoil and the helmet would still pass the tests.

While we’re on the subject of standards, our motorcyclists’ action groups deserve a big hand and a bit more support from all of us for their success in having helmets which meet the international UNECE 22.05 standard essentially made legal here. So, with all of that in mind and a few bucks in your pocket, go forth and buy yourself a new helmet. Your head probably deserves it. PT

Rather than our usual helmet only special feature we’ve done a couple of times over the years, we thought we’d also include helmet communications systems as we know many of you use them and would like to know the latest and greatest things on the market. Bear in mind the included items on the following pages are from those distributors that wanted to supply us the information, hence not every single item on the market is here (think about that when spending your hard earned). We also have a test on the new Scala Rider Pack Talk headsets done by none other than “The Gadget Man” himself. So, without further a due, here is the latest and greatest for your enjoyment. SW

K-3 SV - $289.95 - $329.95

The K-3 SV was developed from the experience AGV gained during the design process of the Pista GP and Corsa helmets. Thanks to the use of Finite Element Analysis (FEM), the technical department developed a benchmark product in terms of comfort, aerodynamics and safety. This helmet has a wide appeal and is suitable for young riders as well as for more mature riders. Thanks to CFD Analysis (Computational Fluid Dynamics), the special ventilation system provides maximum airﬂow to the head through two front and side vents, one central vent and two extractors at the back of the helmet.

The sanitized Dry-Comfort internal components can be removed for washing. The mechanism for opening and closing the visor uses the XQRS system for quick removal.

SHOEI www.mcleodaccessories.com.au

GT-Air - $849.90 - $949.90

The new Shoei GT-Air helmet makes it easier to adapt to the ever-changing conditions on the road ahead. Features like the convenient ﬂip-down internal sun shield, free-ﬂowing yet easily adjustable ventilation system, superior aerodynamics, and Pinlock EVO Anti-Fog System ensure greater comfort and encourage more time in the saddle than ever before. Available in sizes XXS to XXL.

NXr - $799.90 - $899.90

With a world-class team of designers and engineers leading the charge, Shoei utilised its 55 year wealth of knowledge, state-of-the-art wind tunnel facility, proprietary materials, and the industry’s most stringent quality assurance practices to develop

the next-generation NXR helmet. A lighter, more compact, streamlined helmet with next-level functionality, Shoei’s NXR has pursued the ideal of perfection to an all-new level. Available in sizes XXS – XXL.

FGTr (A.k.A. The FiGhTer) - $349.95

Features a shell manufactured from ABS and Tri-Composite with leather stitched trims to finish it off. Unique visors made from aircraft laser cut carbon fibre trimmed in fine leather are available in both clear and tint as well as a short and long design for added cover. Momo Designed Helmets are hand made in Italy and crafted from the finest materials available. Available in a wide range of colours (30+), to suit everyone's taste.

herO - $449.95

Also features a shell manufactured from ABS and Tri-Composite with leather stitched trims to finish it off. Unique visors made from aircraft laser cut carbon fibre trimmed in fine

leather are available in both clear and tint as well as a short and long design for added cover. Momo Designed Helmets are hand made in Italy and crafted from the ﬁnest materials available. Available in a wide range of colours (30+), to suit everyone's taste.

AViO - $449.95

Like Momo’s other helmets, the Avio has a shell manufactured from ABS and Tri-Composite with leather stitched trims. Unique visor made from aircraft laser cut carbon fibre trimmed in fine leather are available in both clear and tint as well as a short and long design for added cover. Momo Designed Helmets are hand made in Italy and crafted from the finest materials available. Available in a range of diverse colours (30+), to suit everyone's taste.

HARLEY-DAVIDSON www.harley-davidson.com.au or your local H-D dealer

FXrG - $755

A helmet that doesn’t take no for an

MOMO www.shogai.com.au

answer, with the best materials resulting in a super lightweight shell with gloss black paint for attitude. The FXRG also has an advanced channelling ventilation system, one-touch integrated visor (with Pinlock) and a SilverCool interior to help wick away moisture and eliminate odours with a removable, washable anti-bacterial liner.

RETRO - $165

Straight out of the ‘60s. Says ‘backoff’ going ﬂat out or stopped at a light. Lightweight, but solid in defence. Snap on shields and visor when you need them.

VICTORY LANE - $199

They’ll hear you coming. They’ll see you coming. Bold graphics and colours say it all. Stand out on the street. You win, both ways. Victory Lane also features contoured cheek pads and padded collar, along with adjustable venting and a removable, washable liner.

RJAYS www.rjays.com.au

SPARTAN - $199.95 - $219.95

Brand new styling with an ABS polycarbonate plastics shell, TSS twin shield system, visor locking system with replacement visors available in Clear, Light Smoke, Dark Smoke and Iridium Silver, Gold and Blue, removable and washable cheek pads and lining and you can get replacement cheek pads and lining for a different ﬁt or to replace worn out ﬁttings.

STRADA TSS (FLIP FRONT) - $249.95

The new Strada TSS helmet is innovative in design, characterised by its super-lightweight and comfort which makes it the must-have of

ﬂip up helmets. Strada also features single hand design for ease of use for opening/closing chinbar/visor, TSS twin shield system, 3D removable and washable Coolmax interior lining, 3 adjustable vents, replacement visors available in Clear, Tinted and Iridium Blue, Gold and Silver and comes complete with a chin curtain.

VICTORY MOTORCYCLES

www.victorymotorcycles.com.au or your local dealer

CUSTOM - $150

The Custom is a stylish new version of an open-face helmet. It offers great protection and coverage, and has a comfortable interior with removable, washable cheek pads. For Victory riders who wear goggles, there’s a goggles strap holder on the back of the helmet, and the sun visor snaps on and off so a rider can customise the helmet’s style and protection.

FULL FACE - $349

Ride with the greatest conﬁdence and outstanding comfort when you wear this Victory Full Face helmet.

It features a strong, protective, multilayer shell, comfortable liner that can be removed for cleaning, multiple adjustable air vents that provide cooling airﬂow, and a versatile visor system. The helmet is Bluetooth compatible, features stealth black style with Victory branding.

INDIAN MOTORCYCLE www.indianmotorcycle.com.au or your local dealer

OPEN FACE - $150

The Indian open face offers great protection and coverage and has a comfortable interior with removable, washable cheek pads. For goggle wearers, there’s a goggle strap holder on the back of the helmet, and the sun visor snaps on and off so a rider can customise the helmet to their personal preference.

FULL FACE - $349

When it comes to riding, there’s a time for speed, there’s a time for style, and there’s also a time for all-day comfort. Try this full face helmet dipped in classic black and red colours and emblazoned with the iconic Indian Motorcycle logo on both sides and the

classic Indian Motorcycle Headdress logo on the back. This helmet combines classic style with modern features such as an inner sun visor and Bluetooth compatibility.

ARAI www.cassons.com.au

XD4 - $749.95 - $849.95

Adventure riders will love this helmet. The XD4 features new exhaust ports, a new shape, new chin vent, larger sculpted side cowl vents, 5mm peelaway temple pads that add another level of customisation, providing a little extra width when needed. Also a fully removable/replaceable/washable interior with Dry-Cool technology and new FCS (Facial Contour Support) cheek pad design. The all-new XD4 now comes standard with the visor ﬁtted with Pinlock posts and Arai has added its trademark brow vents, providing airﬂow to the temple area of the head.

RX-7V - $1099.95 - $1199.95

The RX-7V represents the summit of Arai's knowledge, experience and know-how. With a completely new PB-SNC outer shell, the revolutionary VAS (Variable Axis System) visor system and a signiﬁcant increased smoother area around the temples. From the also new Eco Pure liner with an even slimmer frame, to the new ducts, improved diffuser and the integrated Air Channels, every part shows the attention to detail that is so typical of Arai. Arai has continually improved the 'glancing off' performance by learning from real scenarios. Thanks to the new stronger and smoother shell and VAS, the RX-

7V is closer to the ideal helmet shape than ever.

STAR - FROM $629.95

Eyewear compatible full faced helmet made from a TriMatrix composite shell and featuring an X-Static XT2 silver liner, 5 shell sizes, 1500 grams weight and sizes XS – 2XL.

LS2 www.monzaimports.com.au

METRO – FROM $289.95

A modular full-face that’s Bluetooth ready, has 3 shell sizes, weighs 1600 grams and comes in sizes XS – 2XL.

PIONEER - FROM $189.95

Pioneer your own adventures with this LS2 helmet. it features a removable liner, 3 shell sizes, light 1300 grams weight and comes in sizes 2XS – 3XL.

KABUTO www.motonational.com.au

AEROBLADE 3 – FROM $429.95

Super lightweight and aerodynamic, developed in a wind tunnel, with lightweight composite construction and designed for all day comfort, the Aeroblade III is loaded with features. Sharing the same SAF quick-change shield from the FF-5V—with a Pinlock anti-fog lens insert (not included) — makes riding in any weather as close to fog-free as it gets. When the temperature rises a Coolmax interior and adjustable ventilation with side outlet trim will keep you cool and is easily removed for cleaning.

Patented Wake Stabilizer anti-buffeting technology allows high speed and long distance riding without the fatigue of ﬁghting the wind.

RT-33 – FROM $529.95

Combining Kabuto’s “ACT EVO/R” shell technology and wind tunnel design, plus a Max Vision face shield

with tear off posts, you have the new RT-33, Kabuto’s latest track-ready sport/touring helmet. The same Wake Stabilizer technology found on all Kabuto helmets makes it as equally at home on the track as it is on your favourite back road. A fully removable Coolmax interior and SAF-W Max Vision quick change face shield gives you the comfort and ease of maintenance that you expect from Kabuto.

SHARK www.ficeda.com.au

EXPLORE-R - $599.95

4 conﬁgurations in the one helmet – this helmet includes a visor, a pair of goggles designed by Carl Zeiss (world leader in optical quality), and a motocross peak. The claimed widest ﬁeld of vision in the road version line and you also get a breath guard with a built-in retractable wrap-around neck roll.

RACE-R PRO - $869.95

Jorge Lorenzo wears Shark helmets to race with and this replica helmet

gives you all the protection and great features that Lorenzo races with. Things like the optics 1 category ﬂat visor without any visual distortion thanks to a variable thickness (4.2/2.8mm), double back spoiler to ensure both aerodynamics and stability at high speed and a new visor notching system, for even easier handling.

SKWAL - $359.95 - $399.95

A new generation helmet with embedded LEDs powered by a rechargeable battery to make you more visible to the tin tops. The Skwal also features an auto seal system: ﬂattens the visor onto the helmet, offers better soundprooﬁng and seals the helmet (against water and cold), an interior bamboo treatment for triple effectiveness: antibacterial, antisweating and hypoallergenic and an integrated sunshield. NEXX www.ctaaustralia.com.au

XD1 - $699.95 - $799.95

The Nexx XD1 is a phenomenal success, winning many awards for best

adventure helmet overseas. It's packed with features, including a retractable sun visor. The helmet can be quickly and easily switched, without the need of any tools, between an off-road/ adventure touring helmet to full-face street riding. For off-road riders, it also offers the versatility of using googles in dusty conditions. Tear shaped, the XD1 represents Nexx's new X-Matrix technology, a process that combines multi-axial fibreglass, 3D organic fibres, special aramid fibres and carbon reinforcement. The result is a super strong and lightweight shell, one of the lightest on the market. The chin area combines a unique shape, with a softer and rounder base edge, to reduce chest injury risk from frontal impacts. The XD1 is equipped to accommodate the Nexx helmets X-Com System, developed in cooperation with the renowned Bluetooth company Sena, as well as a wide range of universal communication systems. Another unique feature comes with the options for accommodating helmet cameras; a removable support can be easily embedded in the top of the peak, plus there are helmet cam supports on both sides of the helmet. A Pinlock insert comes standard, too.

BMW MOTORRAD www.bmwmotorrad.com.au or your local dealer

AIRFLOW - $715 - $850

You’ll always keep a cool head, both when cruising around the streets and racing along at high speeds with the BMW Airﬂow. Air is able to ﬂow

freely, so there is no air turbulence and therefore no vibrations are produced. The two large ventilation zones can be closed via a slide control to keep out rain, ensuring that the AirFlow helmet offers the ultimate in aeroacoustics and comfort.

GS CARBON - $900 - $1200

This helmet fulﬁls all the requirements of an enduro sports helmet: perfect ﬁt, outstanding aerodynamics and of course maximum safety. Whatever sort of riding you’re planning, you can adapt it to suit your requirements in a matter of seconds. The GS enduro goggles ($138) are a perfect match for the GS helmet and offer excellent ventilation for off-road use.

LEGEND - $650 - $700

With classic styling, highquality leather and no visor, the uncompromising Legend helmet means business. There’s no doubting its safety performance either, thanks to ﬁrst-rate impact absorption and integrated neck straps.

RACE - $1155 - $1320

As would be expected, the integral Race helmet offers high levels of safety. The extra-large visor with antifog inner visor provides unrestricted sightlines, even in a lying position, while the generously sized spoiler remains stable and secure at speeds of over 300 km/h. As suited to the racetrack as it is high-speed tours, this helmet represents supreme quality.

SYSTEM 6 EVO - $800 - $900

Weighing just 1595 grams, the System 6 EVO helmet provides the ultimate combination of comfort and performance. The four-hinge

mechanism keeps the helmet extremely compact, even with the chin guard raised, while the double visor (ﬁtted as standard) provides excellent vision in all conditions, incorporating an anti-fog inner visor. The steplessly adjustable sun visor is also scratchproof, and can be easily adjusted to changing light conditions. In addition to this, the aerodynamic and aeroacoustic performance is among the best on the market.

COMMUNICATION SYSTEMS

CARDO fOR ShOEI hElMETS www.mcleodaccessories.com.au

SHOEI SHO-1 frOm CArDO - SInglE $499.95, DuAl PACk $899.95

The new SHO-1 is the only Shoei approved intercom system and are made specifically to fit all current Shoei helmet models. The SHO-1 is compatible with all other Cardo Scala Rider products and has additional features (like the removable battery) that make it stand out as one of the finest helmet headsets you can buy! The SHO-1 has been designed to work in perfect harmony with the Shoei range but will also fit many other brands of helmets.

UClEAR www.mcleodaccessories.com.au

uClEAr HBC200 fOrCE - SInglE $329, DuAl PACk $599

The UClear HBC200 is the only

intercom system on the market with no boom microphone! Featuring exclusive concealed dualmicrophone technology and highﬁdelity speakers, the HBC200 Force integrated helmet communication system allows riders to wirelessly connect to an unlimited number of friends, family and any Bluetooth streaming device. This system is fully self-contained and can be easily installed in any helmet in minutes. All devices are fully duplex and the HBC200 Force system allows an unlimited number of people to communicate simultaneously at a distance of up to 700m. Using the patented Multi-Hop technology, the HBC200 Force has an extended range of communication allowing users to speak to lead riders, even if they are outside of the line-of-sight. Advanced Beamforming technology allows the discreet dual-microphone to capture and extract speciﬁc sounds, virtually eliminating background noise. The result is crystal clear audio in even the most extreme conditions. Combining hands-free communication and advanced noise cancellation, the HBC200 Force lets you enjoy your own soundtrack anywhere, anytime.

SCAl A RIDER www.cassons.com.au

g9X – SInglE $399.95, DuAl PACk $699.95

"1+8" intercom enables you to connect via voice command to 8 additional riders within a range of up to 1.6km. Intelligent voice recognition technology means you won't have to take your hands off the handlebars. The G9x also allows 4-way

intercom conferencing and you can spontaneously talk to other riders you meet with Click-to-Link. Pairing is fast and easy: Simply 'bump' two G9x units together and you're ready to hit the road. You can also connect two mobile phones simultaneously and talk handsfree. When you want to rock out, stream your favourite music wirelessly from an A2DP-enabled smartphone or MP3 player. Listen together with a passenger using the Music-Sharing feature enabling you both to enjoy stereo music without any wires. A built-in FM radio with RDS is included too.

PACk TAlk – SInglE $499.95, DuAl PACk $829.95

The latest and greatest from Cardo Systems. We have a full review on this exciting new headset at the end of this feature.

ShAD www.motonational.com.au

BC03 - $135

The new communication systems range Shad is specially designed to offer a safe communication and riding, as it allows you to communicate through your smartphone in a

completely legal way. Receive your calls in an easy and safe way while riding your scooter or motorcycle with the SHAD hands-free set using just one multifunction button. Easy to install, the system is designed to be completely integrated in your helmet.

The BC03 model is the most complete, as it includes hands-free connection to the phone/GPS Bluetooth, stereo music player and intercom, which allows easy and safe communication between rider and passenger. Moreover, the BC03 provides voice answering function and dual Link system, which keeps connected to your phone even when connected as intercom.

INTERPHONE www.ficeda.com.au

TOUR - $399.95

Up to 20hrs talk time, 1000hrs standby, up to 1.5km range with a 4-way conference mode and FM radio and Bluetooth music streaming makes the Interphone Tour a great headset to use for your communications.

NEXX www.ctaaustralia.com.au

X-COM - $379.95

This is the new, upgraded version of the Nexx X-Com intercom, with the additional antenna which slots neatly

into the cavity between the shell and EPS layer on the XD1 and XT1 Nexx helmets. This provides you with an adventure or touring helmet complete with v3.0 Bluetooth intercom, for easy communication with your pillion, riding mates, or for use with your Bluetooth enabled smartphone and GPS. The Nexx X-Com allows for four-way conferencing through the intercom system, or three way conferencing with an intercom participant plus a phone call participant. It's ultra slim and light weight and doesn't interfere with the aerodynamics of the helmet. In normal conditions, the intercom will operate up to 900 metres.

The way it was

Before Communications

BMW MOTORRAD www.bmwmotorrad.com.au or your local dealer

BMW MOTORRAD COMMUNICATION SYSTEM - $550

Available for the following BMW helmets: System 6 EVO, GS Carbon and AirFlow 2 and is fully integrated in the helmet with no visible, unsightly cables. Features include automatic noise suppression, automatic telephone call answering, music reproduction in stereo quality, Bluetooth

mobile telephone, navigation system and audio systems of the K1600 GT / GTL and R1200 RT and a simple three-button operation.

The full range of signals was available before we could talk to each other on the bike. Here are a few of them for pillions:

Sharp punch in both of rider’s kidneys simultaneously: Slow down. Smack to the side of the helmet:

Watch the road, not the short skirts.

Hysterical pummelling of rider’s back: I really do need a toilet stop.

Sharp knock of helmet against rider’s: A bit quick with the brake, weren’t we?

Repeated knocking of helmet against rider’s: I’m asleep.

Short scream and punch to rider’s back: Didn’t you see that pothole?

Clamping arms tightly around rider: You are not Valentino Rossi.

Sitting bolt upright and screaming while rider leans into corner: You are deﬁnitely not Valentino Rossi.

Throwing helmet as far as possible when bike stops: I do not like your riding style.

There are of course many more. Maybe you’d like to send us some? PT 

CARDO SCALA RIDER PACK TALK

WORDS JOHN CONNOR (AKA GADGET MAN!)

Iwill put it out there from the beginning – I have used just about every helmet communications system on the market for the last ﬁve years (maybe more). I am a mad “tech-head” and when a new system becomes available, I have to have it. I’m sure there are many of you just like me out there. Haha!

So, when Stuart told me about the new Scala Rider Pack Talk I asked him to get me the Duo pack, which contains two headsets and associated goodies. In short, Stuart said that if I wasn’t happy with them he’ll send them back, if not, I’d buy them. So, in short – I’ve bought them. If that doesn’t speak volumes, I don’t know what will. But ﬁrst, let’s have a look at the features the new Pack Talk offers…

“Group riding has never been so exciting”, says Cardo Systems. The Scala Rider Pack Talk introduces the world’s

only dual-technology intercom - DMC (Dynamic Meshwork Communication) and Bluetooth technology to re-deﬁne your riding experience. This new innovative technology introduces the 3rd generation of communication systems for riders (up to 15 of them!), enabling your pack to maintain constant connectivity through a virtual network that is both spontaneous and ﬂuid. Any member may randomly join, leave and return without compromising the conversation. The auto-adaptive nature of DMC technology constantly forms and re-assembles itself to ensure that communication among a group of riders remains uninterrupted, irrespective of the ever-changing environment (up to 1.6km rider to rider, 8km in total).

Bluetooth mode provides you the freedom to conduct mobile calls, receive navigation instructions, listen to music (via A2DP or built in FM radio) and connect via intercom with other Bluetooth

good new features unless you have more than 3 riders in a ‘pack’.

Cardo Gateway enables non-Cardo headsets to connect via intercom (a new feature) and older Cardo headsets continue to work too via the Bluetooth setting. If you set the Pack Talk to use DMC instead of Bluetooth, then the older G9s and G4s will not be able to communicate with them. However there is another feature called “Bridge Mode” which will allow the older units to participate in the pack. This restricts the distance between the lead rider and last rider to 1.6km and you must have all riders within line of sight to achieve communication at this distance.

One massive improvement is the sound quality. Previous G9s and G4s were renowned for their low noise/ sound ratio, but the new Pack Talk is quite a lot better than before.

The new size and shape is also a vast improvement on the older models.

Cardo has reduced the number of buttons on the side of the unit and they are so much easier to operate when riding. They have put some thought into making the unit easier to operate with your gloves on, which is a massive blessing as the previous units could get ﬁddly at times.

As I mentioned, I’d said that if I was impressed with the features of the new Cardo Scala Rider Pack Talk headsets, I’d buy them and I did. I think you’ll ﬁnd the same enjoyment and love the new features as I did.

To purchase, see your local bike shop or visit www.cassons.com.au or, for more info on Cardo Systems, visit www.cardosystems.com/ packtalk . 

CARDO SCALA RIDER PACK TALK DUO - PRICE - $829.95

SIX DAYS

ON THE ROAD

WHAT HAPPENS IN VEGAS, STAYS IN VEGAS… OR DOES IT? WORDS/PHOTOS WARWICK HALL

Our good friend Igor planted the seed three years ago, “Who wants to go to Vegas for our 40ths”?

Usually this type of ‘round the ﬁre’ banter would dissipate by the morning – but this one caught the interest of a few serious contenders – kind of a schoolies week 22 years later! No wives / no kids – the type of freedom we had all forgotten about.

The ﬁnal body count would be ﬁve (Ed, Igor, Torrey, Mick and Waz) all old high school buddies from Asquith. Three of us have owned bikes off and on for years. The other two would share driving duties in a rag top V8 Camaro and be a high speed support vehicle for our gear. Came in very handy!

We liked the look of California Sunriders’ LA to Vegas trip, though were a bit freaked out by landing in a foreign country and hitting the monster motorways straight off the plane. Andy from Californian Sunriders came up with a custom tour so we could ride out and return to the same spot. Problem solved and now a standard tour.

Weeks prior, Andy had sent through a comprehensive tour book of all the areas we would be visiting. Hotel details, maps with alternative routes and guides to every area. We always went the longest and most scenic –we had the time, and no one at home was expecting us back – well, not for a while.

We were all Vegas virgins and we all loved the place. Didn’t take too long to realise how they build those extravagant casinos! The gambling fund was eaten up faster than Mick could suck down his cheap American ciggies. Vegas was absorbed for three days before the tour got underway. Thought it was a good idea to get the ‘party’ out of our systems before jumping on the bikes with a clear head.

Three Harleys (two Fat Boys and a Road Glide) were delivered to our hotel. Andy and his wife had travelled six hours from LA to make it happen. They even threw in a few helmets so we could take our non riding chums for a run through the national parks in the coming days.

Day 1 - Vegas to Zion national Park

Luggage loaded Tetris style in the Camaro and off we go. Stopped off at the famous Las Vegas sign for a departing photo. (Be advised to get there early as huge queues develop as the day passes, and dodge the guy who wants a tip for taking your pic).

Off we rolled to the entrance to Lake Mead – purchased our National Park passes (keep these on a lanyard around your neck for easy access). These cover you for all entries apart from Monument Valley which is run by the Navajo. Straight away the land opens up into an endless magic sandpit of colour. You instantly shrink into the huge, open, 360 degree environment. Eagles circle, roads shimmer, memories of the old Road Runner cartoons ﬂood back. I expect to see Wile E Coyote rip past me on an ACME rocket. We’re ﬁnally a long way from crowded Sydney streets and can really enjoy a motorcycle on the open road again – the land was ours. We met 75 year old rider (Bob) at a rest stop –gave us the tip for some quality chow, down the road at Moapa Valley. “Stop at the little pink and white striped cafe” when you get into town. “The Inside Scoop” didn’t look much from the outside, but they put on a great lunch. If you could munch down a full club sandwich by yourself you’d be doing well! Maybe share one with a mate?

Then it was on to Highway 15, brieﬂy crossing the corner of Arizona and into Utah (land of few beers, so we had been warned).

First night’s accommodation didn’t disappoint. The ‘Majestic View Lodge’ had towering views over the high rock faces, changing constantly with the daylight. We jumped on the free Zion Bus and headed down to the National Park entrance. Vehicles aren’t allowed to drive up to the viewpoints to prevent congestion and it works. Just show your National Park pass - hop on and off at the many stops. On the way back down we decided to get off two stops early and walk back to the entrance. Really gives you an appreciation of the scale of

Yo Police can’t catch me.

the place. Spotting a family of squirrels in the lower scrub was a bonus.

Back to the hotel now for some pizza and a symphony of man snoring.

DaY 2 - Zion to BrYce canYon national ParK

Fuelled up the bikes and the gut at ‘Wild Willies’ – plenty of carved Warner Bros characters to prepare you for the scenery ahead. The ride out of Zion had our heads spinning in every direction to try and absorb the scenery over a 1000ft climb out of the park - every corner has another breathtaking view. We were held up for a few minutes before entering the 1.1 mile long tunnel on Mt Carmel Highway (cut in 1930) through the sandstone (best remove sunnies as it’s pitch black).

Every few hundred meters reveals a rock opening window that displays a brief glimpse of the mammoth sheer rock faces. Just after exiting the tunnel was Checkerboard Mesa. As the name suggests, the sandstone formation shows a square pattern across its surface. For once we didn’t care about road works or the slow moving RV ahead –you don’t want to rush this part of the trip. It’s a balance between enjoying the

scenery or pushing the bike through the twisting stream of roads.

If rocks are your thing, then you’ll love the next town ‘Orderville’, no food or fuel, but maybe something different for the kids in the form of zillion year old souvenir from one of the rock shops.

Next stop, ‘Ruby’s Inn’ at Bryce Canyon City – an attraction in itself. Built in the early 1900s and still run by the same family, pretty much looks like they have the whole town sewn up. Great place for food and souvenirs.

We arrived early afternoon so we could get the two drivers (Mick and Torrey) on the back of the bikes for a tour through Bryce Canyon National Park. I hadn’t doubled for a while so was lucky to have the feather weight Torrey (62kg) on the back for the climb up. Mick’s been pumping down too many Bourbon and Cokes over the last few years, so Igor would shuttle him up. All the views are on your left as you motor up the hill –we thought best to get straight to Rainbow Point up the top, then do the extra scenic pulls ins on the way back down.

Mick our resident horticulturist was pretty excited by one of the oldest trees in the world the ‘Bristle cone pine’ –

3,000 years old, we couldn’t see the reason for the excitement, but he loved it!

‘Thor’s Hammer’ was a must see as it was the namesake of Igor’s youngest lad. We pushed on a little into the Navajo trail, down the insanely steep switchbacks. All seemed pretty easy until we had to haul ass back up carrying our helmets and jackets in the heat – where’s those donkeys?

Back to Ruby’s for some food and a beer – warning labels on the fridge noting that “these drinks may contain alcohol” didn’t put us off.

DaY 3 - BrYce canYon national ParK to BluFF

The biggest day also saw the biggest extremes in temperature. Frost on the bikes as we started, to an eventual 36 dry’ degrees in the desert. Kudos to you if you could handle an open face helmet in these conditions. Pulling off the ‘lid’ at the numerous rest stops felt like being massaged with a belt sander. Neck sock for some protection is a must.

Torrey almost made it to the town of ‘Torrey, Utah’ some years ago on a family trip, but never had the chance to lay his claim on the town that carried his

name. The guy at the general store didn’t take us seriously, so we bought some ‘Torrey’ shirts and carried on towards Glen Canyon. Certainly a different look to the Grand Canyon, but was just as impressive. Surprisingly you can walk openly wherever you like. I was happy to stay back a few metres from the crumbling edges – the photos tacked up around of missing people say it all.

Another food recommendation was ‘Blondies’ at Hanksville. Once again, looked like nothing from the outside. If you reckon you can handle the thick shake – better bring some big ‘Dyson type’ lungs to suck this thing up.

The descent in altitude ﬁnally saw the temperature rise and the roads open right up, ﬂowing 70mph corners were the things of dreams. Ahh, if only I had my Ducati now! You couldn’t but help feel you were all alone, with endless views and no law, time to give the old Harley engine some American freedom. Took a fair length of road for it to make 110mph. Not too many moving hazards to be seen apart from the occasional deer, elk and free roaming ranch cattle. We stopped in at the Bridges National Monument on the way through and had a walk down to have a closer look, three

of us stayed back as we’d learnt our lesson on the last steep walk. Exiting here was the ﬁrst time we came across loose road gravel, the RVs sprinkle it across on the tighter turns. It’s low speed so you can see it coming.

We were all starting to fade and still had some way to go to make Bluff for the night. A short cut left us entering the incredible Moki Dugway. A hand cut gravel road descent along highway 261 at the intersection of Mulie Point Rd. To say I was crapping myself was an understatement. No guard rails, huge death drops, a loose surface and a heavy Fat Boy – the bike that is! Lucky we were entering the Valley of the Gods – because I needed them now. Funny how it turned out to be one of the most memorable parts of the trip and one I’d recommend as a must do.

More quality accommodation at Desert Rose Inn & Cabins awaited. 100m down the road, Comb Ridge Bistro sold burgers and craft beer so that was our place of choice. Top quality food and a very entertaining

What happens in Vegas… Stays in Vegas.

waitress called Audrey (looks like Velma from Scooby Doo) – she kept us all laughing. Funny how only a few people really leave a lasting impression on a trip like this.

DAY 4 - BLUFF – MONUMENT VALLEY – GRAND CANYON

Breakfast at Twin Rock Trading Post at the edge of town, past Mexican Hat (which none of the others noticed) then off into Monument Valley. All those famous movie scenes come to life as you roll up the hill towards the rock towers –you’ll see a few recreating Forest Gump. Monument Valley is the only park we came across that wasn’t included with our National Park pass. However, entry was very reasonable and it is a must see. There doesn’t appear to be any town planning out here. You just seem to build your ‘box’ wherever you like and live – it’s a tough environment even on the blue sky day we had.

The remainder of the day was some very long straights and sore bums as The Grand Canyon drew closer. It can be a real effort to try and stay focused – lucky Ed had the stereo blasting on the bike of which we could hear the odd note.

I’d always seen pictures of the Grand Canyon but never knew what was behind it. The road follows the top rim with the dry canyon one side and thick green shrubbery on the other. Doesn’t look too dissimilar to entering one of our Sydney national parks like Kuring-gai. Once again, the main park area has a great ‘hop on’ bus that takes you to the many lookouts.

Day 5 - GranD Canyon to KinGman

First time we actually had a few drops of rain – though it passed quickly and we seemed to outrun it. This would see us ﬁnally hit part of the original Route 66 at Seligman. You feel the history straight away and plenty of cool souvenirs are to be had. Ed and Igor went helmet free through town to get the true experience. We couldn’t resist the Roadkill Café for lunch. I went for the “Too Slow Doe” or BBQ Beef Sandwich –certainly didn’t disappoint, probably not the place for vegetarians though. Off to our ﬁnal night’s stay in Kingman. The Best Western was a bit out of town, but didn’t disappoint

The lads looked up the best pub in Kingman – we cabbed (only a few in town, so get the drivers number) to the “House of Hops” on East Beale Street. No shortage of local brews, but only one toilet. They even had an icy chilled strip the length of the bar to keep your schooners cold. A local game was ‘corn hole’ which involved throwing small bean bags into a ramp with a hole drilled in it – pretty entertaining and we won a few rounds vs the native beer garden inhabitants.

One of the local ﬁremen (Rob) took a bit of a shine to us and offered to escort us on his Harley into Hoover Dam the following day. Rob was pretty excited to show us the two pistols and sub machine gun he kept in his car - just part of his 40 piece collection. Totally necessary for a small country town…

Day 6 - KinGman to Las VeGas

Good to his word, Rob arrived on time (carrying a hand gun in the pannier for protection of course). Stopped off at the huge steam loco just on the fringe of town and kept moving. The ride into Hoover Dam is pretty much straight, and the temperature kept rising. Reserved parking for the bikes was handy, then a quick walk downstairs to the visitor centre. Well worth going on the short

Your turn

Want to make memories in Vegas and elsewhere? Contact Andy at California Sunriders and he will make it happen and tell Andy we sent you!

California Sunriders Inc

355 S.Grand Ave, Suite 2450

Los Angeles CA 90071

tour@california-sunriders.com

Ph: + 1 310 359 2353

tour down to the generators and seeing a little inside, still can’t believe the concrete at the base is around 100m thick!

We said our goodbyes to Rob, who then proceeded to give us all a Kingman Fire Department T-shirt from his local station.

Back to Vegas and a cruise of the strip for our ﬁnal runs on the Harleys. Must have been about 40 degrees and the trafﬁc was at a standstill - reckon we must have drained out about 2 litres of sweat each.

Vegas Harley is well worth a visit at the south end of the strip – the scope and the range of accessories are amazing! Harley branded dog chew or Harley BBQ anyone? Out the back of the store is a learner’s area where you could watch the new recruits running around on the 500s.

Californian Sunriders met us at the Flamingo and picked up all the bikes – no hassle and made the whole experience very easy. The trip was over and we had three days of Vegas left.

For me the Harleys were a pretty underpowered, heavy beast. I was always left wanting more ground clearance and acceleration. Though could you ride anything else in the USA – who wants to miss out on the scenery anyway?

Now how do we convince the wives that we want to go back for more without them? =

when a local car club wheeled out a heap of classic muscle cars at the drive in diner next door.

The boys!

OVER THE HORIZONTE

TOP IMAGES FROM A TOP TOUR OPERATOR

WhenMathias from Horizonte Tours sent us the photos you see here – and a few more – we just thought we should share some of them with you. Better than any number of words, they show just how wonderful it can be out on the open road in exotic places. These particular images are from Horizonte Tours’ Ruta 40 tour which takes riders down into the very south of South America, over sealed and unsealed roads to scenery that’s almost impossible to believe.

“Horizonte Tours came into being in August 2003,”writes Mathias. “The idea to offer motorbike tours in South America is based on my 3 year long motorbike tour through Middle East and Africa on one hand, on the other on our knowledge about northern Argentinean and Bolivian culture, geography, geology, climate and travel conditions.

“Not only the gorgeous South American landscapes, but also the history, culture and way of life of the

people, is what we want our clients to experience. We want to keep negative impact on the traditional systems as small as possible, that's why we tour in small groups only. Small groups are more convenient for everybody, for they are more ﬂexible. This also enables us to design tours individually, and to adjust them to the needs and skills of the participants.

“Our motorbike tours are adventure tours on tarmac and gravel roads, but nevertheless they are adequate

for average experienced bikers. That means every experienced rider can go on tour with us, even if they don't have experience on gravel roads or off road.

“Although we are touring in thinly populated, not very developed areas

and are doing adventurous tours, our experience enables us to choose beautiful locations, comfortable hotels and delicious restaurants to offer you the best available quality.

“On our Route 40 tour, we will tackle

this legendary road which leads along the Andes from the very north to the very south of Argentina. We will be crossing half the continent of South America. From Bariloche we’ll explore the adventurous part of the rough

Ruta 40 to reach southern Patagonia with its impressive mountains like Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre, the famous glacier Perito Moreno and the Torres del Paine.

“By the ferry over the Strait of

Magellan we’ll reach Tierra del Fuego, and after a windy ride over the island we’ll get to Rio Grande. Passing the Garibaldi Pass we ﬁnally reach our destination: Ushuaia, the southernmost city of the World.”

Horizonte will also be running its Dakar Spectator Tour again for the 2017 event. All the information is at www.horizonte-tours.com/ dakar-2017/ and it looks like a cracker as well.= www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au

TOPTOURSANDTRAVEL

GOING, GOING… BUT WHERE TO?

ORGANISED

MOTORCYCLE TOURS ALL AROUND THE WORLD COMPILED BY THE BEAR

Yes, it’s hard to explain the attraction of riding a motorcycle in strange places. But only to those who haven’t done it. Actually, it’s hard to explain to those who have done it, as well – because

Atlas Mountains, riding through the twisted stone outcrops of the Atacama Desert, the Paciﬁc coast fogbank from above in California… these are all unforgettable. Despite our somewhat lacklustre dollar, we Australian riders have more of a chance than most to get out there and experience all of these things. I have been trying to encourage you to have a go, and the places I’ve raved about have seen a substantial rise in visits by Australians on motorcycles. I’m pleased and ﬂattered by that; it seems we here at MOTORCYCLIST are making a difference.

But there’s still a lot of resistance to the idea of a big bike tour, either in Australia or overseas. Well, yeah, love to but can’t afford it; who’s going to look after the kids/cat/dog/budgie/garden? And so on. But consider this: I have never met anyone who was sorry they took a bike tour, locally or overseas. C’mon: what does that tell you?

GETTING EMOTIONAL

Good

news from Varese. “MV Agusta is introducing the “Emotion Road” programme, the ﬁrst true motorcycle vacation package designed to permit tourists from around the world to discover Italy while riding the MV Agusta Turismo Veloce 800.

“Well aware of the growth in visitors to Italy, MV is proud to take a leading role in a tourism project that will allow anyone to explore the wonders of Italy aboard the ultimate “Made in Italy” motorcycle. You’ll ﬁnd more at www.mvagustaadventure.com.

they’re mostly not hanging around waiting for explanations, but off doing it again!

All I can say is that there are few things I like better. The snowy peaks of the

“The fortunate group of motorcycle enthusiasts taking part in the programme will travel along the most picturesque routes in Italy, and will stay in the most exclusive and atmospheric hotels. This

Serpentine roads at Lake Garda in northern Italy.

Hmm, where shall we go next?

will result in an unforgettable experience exploring the beauty of Italy while experiencing the all-round performance of the fabulous MV Agusta Turismo Veloce 800; a bike which combines the soul, elegance and authenticity embodied in the term “Made in Italy”.

“The unique nature of “Emotion Road” lies in its ability to offer a turnkey package combined with an original approach to tourism. It provides a perfect solution for customers seeking to satisfy their desire to discover Italy while experiencing the country’s natural beauty and spirit of adventure.”

Well, that’s what the press release says, anyway. I would certainly go along if I could manage it, and you can ﬁnd out more about the three tours on offer at www.mvagustaadventure.com

Just tap “TOURS” on the website.

CHERMAN CITY? JA, CHERMAN CITY

There is no sign of any slowdown in the avalanche of press releases from

MotoQuest. Would that other operators took one tenth of the trouble these guys do!

The latest missive praises the charming city of San Carloes de Bariloche, which nestles up against the foothills of the Andes, on the southern shores of Nahuel Huapi Lake.

Usually referred to simply as Bariloche, this city of roughly 100,000 people at nearly 3,000 feet of elevation is a major Argentinian tourism center.

“Part of what makes Bariloche so special is the incredible architectural overhaul it received in the late 1930s. Since the area was heavily populated by German-speaking immigrants, the city was redesigned in the appearance of a traditional European alpine town, even earning the nickname "Little Switzerland." In fact, there are chocolate shops on almost every corner.

“We make it a point to spend some time in Bariloche whenever we travel

in the area. Our Patagonia End of the Earth Adventure spends a night in Bariloche, giving riders some time in the evening and morning to enjoy the city. We spend even more time there on our Northern Patagonia Adventure. Participants stay in Bariloche for two nights, with a full free day in between to explore the city or venture out on a day-ride.”

Sounds good, as MotoQuest’s press releases always do. Hmm, maybe I should tackle Patagonia after all… 

The scenery around Bariloche is pretty amazing, too.

EVENTS

HISTORY REBORN

FOLLOWING THE WONDERFUL WINIFRED WELLS

WORDS THE BEAR & THE POSSUM

“Irecently received a call from the intrepid Beetle Bayley (gnarly outback adventurer) who alerted me to the efforts of the amazing Winifred

Wells,” says our rally writer, The Possum. “At 22 years of age, this lass of seven stone* purchased a Royal Enﬁeld 350 Bullet. For a girl to be riding about Perth in 1950 on a motorcycle is impressive enough, but what she did next will amaze you…”

It certainly amazed me. Two weeks after buying the bike, she rode the Bullet down the driveway of her parents’ house and into history.

“She set out on Boxing Day, 1950, equipped with food and spare clothing in two pannier bags, a suitcase strapped to her carrier and a knapsack,” said Royal Enﬁeld’s REVS magazine in Britain for winter 1951/52. “There was no need for waterproof clothing, as it was midsummer in Australia, so her outer clothing consisted of riding boots, breeches, sweater, leather jacket and an old tweed cap; the latter to protect her from the scorching glare of the sun.”

Winifred thought that a nice ride to Sydney and return would be a good way to spend her holidays… Keep in mind

that outside the towns and cities of 1950 Australia, there was a shortage of sealed roads. A graded gravel road was a luxury, and a sandy track was par for the course.

“Miss Wells, 5ft 5in, the 22 year-old daughter of a furniture manufacturer in Shenton Park, Western Australia, achieved what has been acclaimed as one of the most prodigious feats in Australian motorcycling history,” says REVS.

“In 21 days she accomplished her solo ride from Perth to Sydney and back, a distance of 5,504 miles. Thus she averaged 366 miles per day, alone, braving the barren, sandy, waterless wastes of the Nullarbor Plains, a sparsely inhabited desert more than 1,000 miles wide.

“To tackle the desert itself would daunt many a husky male rider. Only those who have had ﬁrst-hand

Winifred Wells, setting out from Perth…

experience can truly appreciate the courage and determination of this slim slip of a girl (we’re in pre-PC times here) in crossing the desert twice within three weeks.

“At the end of the ﬁrst day Miss Wells had reached the small town of Southern Cross. Next morning she began the most gruelling part of the ride, crossing the Nullarbor Plains. She arrived at Norseman safely by the evening of the 27th and the next night she was quite alone in the desert with no human habitation for least 100 miles. A nasty skid on some loose gravel outside Coolgardie had upset her a little, and this prevented her from pressing on to Eucla, her intended destination.

“Her remarks on the incident are typical, ‘So I used my bike, ground sheet and blanket to rig a shelter in the bush. It was the loneliest hole you ever saw, but I wasn’t scared’.

She rode into Adelaide on New Year’s Day.

“Led by our distributor, Mr. George Bolton, a great welcome was given Miss Wells by motor enthusiasts there,” said REVS.

Bolton takes over the story.

“After having covered 1,731 mile to Adelaide across arduous desert country in the blazing heat of summer, Miss Wells left the city at 5pm the same day for Melbourne, and so to Sydney where she arrived at 6:15pm on 5th January. She spent a day seeing the sights and set off on the return journey on the 8th,

arriving in Adelaide at 7:20pm on 10th January. She had completed the run of 462 miles from Melbourne the same day, having left there at 6:30am.

“When she left Adelaide at 3:00pm on the 11th inst., with the machine running as new, the temperature was 104.9°C. As she travelled north to Port Augusta, so the temperature increased, but she succeeded in reaching Port Augusta, a distance of 204 miles, by 8pm. On 12th inst., we received a telegram stating that she had left Pt. Augusta at 6am and she arrived safely at Ceduna, a distance of 323 miles due west, at 4pm.”

George Bolton was worried enough about Winifred to take the precaution of phoning the police at Port Augusta “with whom I am personally acquainted, asking them to advise other police along this lonely track to be on the lookout for her, in case of emergencies. Thus we await further progress.

“The roads through which she is now travelling are merely bush tracks through sandy, waterless wastes, and her very life depends on the reliability of her machine.

“Our hopes are high that this gallant little soul will win out.”

Win out she did, of course. REVS was delighted.

“Mr L. B. Clarkson, our Australian representative, advised us shortly afterwards that the phenomenal journey had been completed within 21 days, as scheduled by Miss Wells… Royal Enﬁeld Bullet came through without missing a beat. Engine running like a watch.”

In recognition of her feat, Royal Enﬁeld presented Miss Wells with a handsome trophy at the Claremont Speedway, Perth, where she rode a lap of honour on the 350 Bullet.

“In honour of Winifred, the intrepid Beetle is proposing to retrace her journey and use it as a vehicle to fundraise for the Guide Dogs,” writes The Possum. The plan is for any adventurer out there to stump up cash to ride a leg of the journey, or the whole trip. Additional sponsorship is also being sought to defray costs and assist with raising a target of $105,000. An odd number you may comment, but that is the cost of training three Guide Dogs.”

If you are interested on riding a leg of this amazing young woman’s trip, or wish to kick the tin with a donation or sponsorship please contact Beetle at pamsmcride@gmail.com - PAMS is Perth, Adelaide, Melbourne, Sydney. Departure is from Perth on December 26th, 2017 and the whole ride – Perth -Sydney – Perth will take 30 days. Cost will be $300, which includes one stage, and $50 per stage extra. You’ll need to raise a minimum of $1000 to enter, but you can be a “virtual rider” and do the whole thing from your lounge chair. The one who raises the most money takes home a brand-new Royal Enﬁeld!

*All measurements are in the Imperial Scale; 1950 Australia used that scale. =

Receiving her trophy at the Claremont Speedway.

Royal Enﬁeld didn’t hesitate to use the trip in ads!

» Select pressure, switch ON and the pump automatically switches OFF when the pressure is reached

» Displays in PSI, BAR or KPA

» Pumps to 50 PSI

» Actual Pump size: 13 x 17 x 5.5cm

» Light weight and portable - weighs only 497g

The Kit includes the MotoPressor Mini Pump with Digital Pressure Gauge and all the power leads and connectors to run from your motorcycle battery or a mini jump starter, packed neatly into a sturdy carry case.

BELIEVE IT, THEY’RE WARM!

HELD SATU GLOVES

PRICE - $185

When I ﬁrst got the Held Satu gloves I didn’t think they would be that warm, as they are quite a thin glove, but Ray from Held Australia said, “give them a whirl and you’ll be surprised”. So off I went in the cold and I was blown out of the water, they are bloody warm!

For such a thin glove, the warmth provided is unbelievable. I have ridden down to a constant ambient 9 degrees (so probably feeling like 2-4 degrees on a bike!) and they have been warm enough, but anything below would probably be a bit too cold, but not unbearable that’s for sure, especially if you’ve got heated grips. The upper range of the Satu gloves is around 21 degrees – anything above and they’re just too warm. So as a winter/midseason glove that has outstanding features like being totally waterproof, windproof and breathable thanks to Gore-tex with X-trafit technology they are simply one of the best gloves I’ve ever had – no bulk, just reasonable warmth and not one drop of water getting through in the rain. X-trafit technology provides a close fit for maximum control of the motorcycle. I normally take a size 11 (2XL) with Held gloves and while the Satu was a little snug to start

with, this moulded over a week of wearing them to and from the ofﬁce everyday into a great ﬁtting pair of gloves. So be mindful of your sizing when ordering this glove. If you want a little extra room, go one size larger than normal. Sizing ranges from 6-13.

The Held Satu gloves are constructed with a Goatskin palm, Taslan (100% polyester) back and 100% polyester lining (that doesn’t come out when wet or sweaty!).

For protection there’s special foam knuckle and ﬁnger protection, schoeller-keprotec protection at the ball of the thumb, double leather on the palm and 3M Scotchlite reﬂectors for night riding. So there’s no fancy hard knuckles in these gloves that get uncomfortable, they are just an excellent touring glove for all-day riding.

For adjustment you have Velcro at the wrist and cuff and one of the most essential requirements for any touring glove – a visor wipe for wet weather riding.

I’ve now had the Held Satu gloves for a month as I write this and I am still blown away that such a thin glove can provide so much warmth. The only trouble I’ve got is trying to stop my father from stealing them! Grab a pair and be amazed. Contact Ray on 0411 111 711, email: info@ heldaustralia.com.au or visit the website for easy ordering: www. heldaustralia.com.au SW

LAUGH AT THE RAIN! HELD RANO JACKET & TEMPEST PANT

PRICE - $120 (JKT), $100 (PANT)

When Ray from Held Australia saw that The Bear had got himself a new rain suit, he decided it was time for me to park my faithful BMW Motorrad wet weather gear and jump into Held’s Rano and Tempest wet weather gear. I have always been against fluoro gear as I believe it offers no purpose to the safety of a rider. I was only just mentioning to The Bear about a guy I was following in the traffic on a maxi scooter who was wearing a fluoro vest and he was no more visible than anyone (or anything) else in the traffic – so I’ve always felt that those choosing to wear a vest etc. to be “more visible” is more of a confidence thing in their own mind. That’s fine by me, but don’t rely on it. Now, back to the Held wet weather gear! When Ray said he was bringing the jacket and pants over for me I said I’ll have them in black and he said, I only bring in the Black/yellow colour as that is what is selling, so I joined The Bear with his very bright Rjays suit and donned the fluoro. As much as I was a little shocked by the brightness of The

Stuart contemplates how he’ll ﬁt in with our resident ﬁsh now that he won’t get wet

Bear’s suit, Held’s gear is a lot less “over the top” in my mind. But it isn’t until you put the Rano jacket and Tempest pants on that you realise just how good this wet weather gear is.

As with all the gear that Held has to offer, their designers really go that extra step to have added features that are useful and make riding a motorcycle that much better. Try the soft feel nylon fabric that doesn’t have you feeling like you’ve just jumped into a plastic bag. With the Rano jacket you have good length to cover your jacket, a long zip and full length Velcro ﬂap. You also get a nice sized collar and good sized Velcro patch to seal in your neck. You get a separate internal chest pocket which is waterproof, arm and waist adjusters and an elastic mid-waist to stop any ﬂapping while riding, but you also get side adjusters so that you can have the jacket just in the right area when riding. Because I’m tall, I’ve got the adjusters for full length, but shorter riders will rejoice with a feature like this. But, probably the biggest feature that

I’ve never seen on any other speciﬁc wet weather only jacket is the cuffs. They have a normal type sleeve and Velcro adjustment but it is the elastic “Storm cuff” that allows you to tuck your gloves into the part between the cuff and sleeve that really makes this jacket stand out from the rest. Having this feature there is no water that goes up your arm, or down into your gloves and getting water into your gloves at the cuff area has long been a right pain, which we’ve all experienced at some point in time! If you need to keep wearing the jacket off the bike, there is a fold up hood.

The Tempest pants have two distinct features that make them really good –the ﬁrst is the half leg zips (with easy gliding zips!) that make getting the pants on and off with boots on, a breeze. The second is the hanging tabs located just

inside the waist so that you can hang the pants up properly after riding in the rain so they can dry quicker.

It’s not until you get top quality gear that you realise just how much easier it makes your riding. I cannot recommend the Held Rano jacket and Tempest pants enough for your wet weather riding. It is top quality gear that you’ll notice the difference once you wear it and will have you seriously laughing at the rain.

Sizing ranges from XS-4XL. I took size 3XL with plenty of room and length for my ‘svelte’ 195cm height.

Contact Ray on 0411 111 711, email: info@heldaustralia.com.au or visit the website for easy ordering: www. heldaustralia.com.au SW

A CASUAL AFFAIR

DRIRIDER IRIDE 2 BOOTS

PRICE - $149.95

formerly Ferris Wheels Safaris

I have longed for a pair of casual type riding boots for, pretty much since this style of riding boot came out a couple of years ago. The main thing holding me back was the sizing. I take a size 49 but I just happened to be talking to our good friends at McLeod Accessories and they told me their Dririder iRide 2 casual riding boots are a large make and that their largest size, a 48 would ﬁ t me. So, a few days later they arrived and wow! They ﬁ t perfect and are exactly what I have wanted. In fact they are more of a riding boot than I expected.

The Dririder iRide 2 is made from with a full grain leather upper that has a Hipora waterproof and breathable liner. There is a polyester lining with open cell foam which makes them very comfy for all-day wear and there’s shock absorbing latex foam on the ankle.

The toe cap and heel are thermoplastic for protection and the mid-sole is moulded for less twist. The sole is vulcanised high density rubber and gives good grip in wet or dry conditions and has not worn after three weeks of constant wearing.

The iRide 2 boots are that comfy that I don’t take them off when I get to the ofﬁ ce, I just wear them all day long. I might think a little different once it comes to summer time as they offer a bit of warmth. This can be overcome by getting a pair of the vented version though and for the price, why not have a pair of the vented, and a pair of the version I have for all year round casual style riding!

Break-in took about two weeks of everyday wearing/riding and once they are broken in you won’t even think they are a motorcycle boot!

Sizing ranges from 35-48 and a variety of styles are available – MC-1 Black (as you see here), MC-2 Black (canvas/leather), MC-4 Brown (leather), MC-6 Black (perforated leather) and for the ladies, the Delicious Purple (leather). See your local bike shop or visit www.dririder.com.au SW

SO BRIGHTLY

AND SPRIGHTLY

RJAYS

TEMPEST RAINSUIT

PRICE - $99.95

One piece rainsuits superﬁcially like the Tempest have been around for decades. Before the introduction of the GST they cost around $100; then they went up to $110 to reﬂect the new tax, before dropping back to around $100 again. The effect of all this has, of course, made these one-piece rainsuits cheaper than ever.

Why did I write ‘superﬁcially’ above? Because today’s suits are not only cheaper than ever, they’re also better. That’s certainly true of the Tempest, which I have now had for a couple of months and which I’ve used in Spain and in good old NSW. It has proven to be 100% waterproof and nicely breathable. Both of those characteristics have been important; the waterprooﬁng for obvious reasons and the breathability because it was quite warm in Spain, where the rain does actually mainly fall in the plain, and on bears riding motorcycles on same.

Apart from not bathing you in your own sweat any more, how are modernday one piece suits better? Almost every aspect has been improved, ranging from effectiveness (the seam welding works) to visibility (both the reﬂective strips and dayglo panels –where ﬁtted - are quite outstanding). Now I know that many of you think I am against dayglo clothing; I’m not. I am against relying on dayglo clothing to keep yourself safe. You can’t shift responsibility to your rainsuit just

because it’s brightly coloured.

Let’s just quickly go over the characteristics of the Tempest suit. It is made from a thin, light-weight material and fully lined. That makes it easy to put on, except over boots where the lining can get caught. It’s best to put the suit on before donning boots, but that’s not to say that you can’t slip it on by the roadside without removing footwear. You can; it just takes a little longer. The suit folds up quite small, and it comes with a drawstring bag to store it. You might be surprised that it can ﬁt into such a small bag, but it does.

Comfort is helped along with a soft neck lining, while the adjustable Velcro neck closure is both comfortable and effective at keeping out the rain. The elastic waist stops the suit from ballooning and the wrist cuffs along with the zipper and adjustable ankle closure secures the openings. As I mentioned above, seams welded to ensure waterprooﬁng.

One brilliant feature is the large cargo pocket with its Velcro storm ﬂap on right thigh. Just the place for keys, toll tokens, your wallet and any other bits and pieces you’ll need out on the rainy road. I would like to see slightly longer legs on the suit. Because I was wearing short riding boots, the suit’s ankles occasionally rode up over the edge of the boots.

The Rjays Tempest rainsuit is available in sizes 2XS to 4XL from your local bike shop, or see www.rjays.com.au . By the way, I am not giving the test suit back – that’s always a good sign. PT 

THE KEL CARRUTHERS STORY

WORDS LESTER MORRIS

The Special Guest at the 2015 Motorcycle Show at Sydney Showground was the legendary Australian motorcycle racer Kel Carruthers, world 250cc Champion in 1969, who remains a revered member of both the Australian and American Halls of Fame. He was placed in the Australian Hall of Fame in 1985 because of his incredible record of race victories in this country on a variety of marques, which he rode before Yamaha entered this country in 1960, as well as for some years thereafter. He was listed in America in 1999.

He was the special guest of Yamaha Motors at the Show, the Japanese manufacturer celebrating its 60th Anniversary. Yamaha was placed very firmly on the International map by Carruthers, who moved to the US in 1971 after winning the 250cc Daytona race in March the previous year on a Yamaha, following this up by winning both the 250 and 350cc races on the tricky Isle of Man circuit in July in 1980. He rode again at Daytona in 1971, but then devoted most of his time as a mentor to the young American flat-track rider Kenny Roberts. As the official Yamaha Team Manager/Engineer/Tuner from 1973 on, Carruthers assisted the talented American to become US Grand National Champion in that year and again in 1974.

Carruthers was also in control of the ﬁne-tuning, research and development of the four-cylinder, two-stroke Yamaha road race machines which were campaigned in world title

events in later years, and was thus instrumental in helping Kenny Roberts to win three successive 500cc World Championships from 1978-80.

His passage to this lofty position was not an easy one, however, for he began his stellar career by racing on the occasional short-circuit in the early ﬁfties, as well as in rough-and-tumble scrambles (for ‘scrambles’ read MotoCross) events on the 1.2km sandcovered, rough-and-rocky Moorebank circuit, located in an outer Sydney suburb.

Kel Carruthers is the son of one of the all-time greats of speedway sidecar racing, the oft-times National Champion Jack Carruthers, whose motorcycle store was situated on Victoria Road in Gladesville. Young Kel worked for his dad and learned much of his skill as a tuner of high speed engines from his father, who kept his highly-tuned, alcohol-burning Vincent speedway outﬁt in top fettle for years.

If I remember correctly, Jack was instrumental in altering the Vincent’s gear-change mechanism which allowed very much faster, and more reliable, gear changes. The big, 1000cc Veetwin Vincent was always notorious for its slow, slow selection of gears.

I ﬁrst saw evidence of the young Carruthers’ brilliance at Bathurst in 1957 where, as a late teenager, he was locked in an epic battle with the renowned, hard-charging veteran John Jowett in a ‘Super Clubman’ event. Jowett was mounted upon his illhandling, all-alloy, 500cc Triumph, the twitchy machine ﬁtted with that awful

sprung hub, Triumph’s thin telescopic front forks and a home-made, planklike seat, which was lightly ‘padded’ with felt and thinly covered with a slippery vinyl material.

Kel was mounted on a very swift machine which was powered by a single cylinder, cast-iron 500cc B33 engine – filled, as a matter of course, with modified Gold Star BSA parts – which was fitted into a Norton ‘Featherbed’ frame. The frame had to be modified slightly to allow the BSA oil pump at the base of the crankcase to clear a lower frame rail.

The pair diced furiously for the entire race. The sight of the two un-streamlined, entirely different machines ﬂashing down Con-Rod straight almost side-by-side with not a millimeter between them remains a vivid memory. Kel had the slightest edge through the Mountain, and it was only the BSA magneto’s failure which slowed him and allowed Jowett to emerge victorious with just over one lap to go.

Later in 1957 Kel rode to second place again, riding a Lambretta in the 125 Australian TT on Phillip Island. No, it was not a scooter, it was one of only two special, factory-prepared racing machines which were sent to Australia at the time. The machine had 14” wheels, huge alloy head and barrel, monstrous carburettor, loud megaphone exhaust and a handcrafted aluminium fairing. Both machines have long since disappeared. It wasn’t until three years later that Carruthers enjoyed a podium ﬁnish in a major event, although he raced often

enough on smaller circuits, when he secured second place to Eric Hinton’s NSU in the 1960 250cc Australian TT at Bathurst on his specially-prepared Norton, with a ﬁne third place in the 350cc race on a Manx Norton. It was during 1960 that the machine which was to thrust the young rider into the spotlight as never before arrived. The Australian rider Tom Phillis had ridden a newly-designed, factory-prepared 250cc four-cylinder DOHC Honda during that season, and had brought the machine with him to Australia at the end of the season. The Sydney company Bennett and Wood, who were well in favour with Honda because they were the ﬁrst company on Earth to import Honda motorcycles, into Sydney in early 1958, secured the Phillis Honda-4 when Phillis went back to Europe for the 1961 season as a works sponsored rider, and handed the machine over to the promising young rider.

Riding in the NSW Grand Prix at Bathurst in 1961, Carruthers ﬁnished in second place on the Italian double-knocker MV in the opening 125cc event – ironically, behind Alan Osborne’s 125 Honda - but he was untouchable on the Honda Four in both the 250 and 350cc races, knocking Eric Hinton’s two-ﬁfty NSU lap record sideways by several seconds in the process. The following year he rode the Honda to a resounding win in the 250cc Australian TT in Western Australia, but followed home the ebullient Aussie rider Jack Ahearn in the 350cc event; one of the few times in which that marvelous little 250Four was ever beaten in Australia. Well into his stride by now, Carruthers won the 250/350cc double on the Honda in the Australian TT at Lakeside in 1963, and rode his homeprepared Norton to thrilling victories in the both 500cc and Unlimited TT events. This proved to any nay-sayers who may have been out and about

that it wasn’t just the Honda which was invincible, for the DOHC Norton which he and his father tuned competed on equal terms with many other, equally-fast DOHC Manx Nortons.

If this wasn’t enough, he made history at Bathurst in 1964 by winning every one of the ﬁve major solo races, from 125 (on a production Honda racer) through 250 and 350cc titles on the Honda 4, to the 500cc and Unlimited-capacity events on the 500cc Norton. This was a feat which had never been achieved before but then, as an encore to this startling performance, he won the Unlimited Race for standard Production machines as well!

Amazing though this incredible performance was, he repeated the feat in the ‘Sesquicentenary’ TT races at Bathurst the following year! This time he was pushed very hard by Bert Flood in the 125 race, Flood upon his very swift Bultaco, the Spanish engine

slotted into a modified BSA Bantam frame. There was absolutely nothing in it, but it came unstuck near the end of the race when Flood crashed heavily near Skyline. Of course the Honda 4 was ridden in the two smaller capacity races, the bike by now well set-up and tuned to fine pitch by Kel and his father, the sometimes-twitchy frame heavily modified by them as well. Carruthers again rode his Norton in both the 500cc and Unlimited races. Two OHV 650cc twin-cylinder Nortons, in the hands of Keo Madden and Alan Osborne, followed him home in the larger-capacity race.

To rub salt into the wounds of his frustrated, earnest pursuers, the incredible Kel Carruthers did it all again later in 1965 in the Australian TT on the viciously-swift Longford circuit in Tasmania, where he won all ﬁve solo races! He rode Hondas to victory in the 125, 250, and 350cc events, and won the 500cc and Unlimited TT races on his trusty Norton.

Then, with nothing at all to prove in Australia, he ﬂew to Europe with his father while his mum, wife Jan and two kids made their way across by boat, taking the 125 Honda and Norton machines with them. They were shortly to follow in the wellworn footsteps of many top-class Australian riders who had ridden to International fame and fortune (and, sadly, sometimes to their deaths) in the cut-and-thrust of real-life International World-Championship motorcycle road racing.

He returned to Australia as 250cc World Champion in 1969, the third Aussie to do so after Keith Campbell (350cc Moto Guzzi) and Tom Phillis (125 Honda). I met him brieﬂy in Sydney where he pinned a small (promotional?) Benelli badge onto the lapel of my jacket before we chatted for a time on his experiences in England and Europe. The badge was pinched when I left my jacket ﬂung over a chair in the commentary box at

Skyline the following year.

He told me his ﬁrst year was very tough, because he had to ﬁnd his way about with little idea of how to secure entries in provincial or major events each week, or how to negotiate appearance and start money (and the occasional prize money) with organisers. He had to learn the hard way how to make his way through Customs when crossing international borders in the large, multi-purpose J-van which was at once transport, garage and accommodation; had to learn to cope with the thousand-andone necessities of daily life as a family on the turbulent ‘Continental Circuit’ of which they had become such an integral part. They managed, he told me, but only just: with his grateful thanks to his wife Jan. He added to his stable by purchasing a 250cc production-race Aermacchi in 1967, and began to earn enough money to be slightly ‘in front’. Then in 1968 he enjoyed factory support

from the Italians, who provided him with 125 and 350cc Aermacchis, as well as an over-bored 380cc machine for the larger capacity races. But there was no factory mechanic, so he had to carry out all the work on the machines himself; a Herculean task! He amazed the locals on the Isle of Man in June of that year by breaking the lap record on the singlecylinder 350 Aermacchi in practice. That scintillating performance really lifted his profile on the International scene, and was not overlooked by the delighted Italians. He finished in a very close second place on the 125 on the Isle, and managed three podium places on the 350 to finish third in the 1968 350cc World Championships. However, 1969 was to be his Big Year, and he was ready for it! When he arrived at the Isle of Man in June he didn’t have a single point on the board, for the machines he was riding were no longer competitive.

Renzo Pasolini, the Benelli factory

rider on the four-cylinder 250cc bike had been injured in a practice spill, so the Benelli team asked Kel to ride the (practice!) bike for them. He contacted Aermacchi for permission, and they sportingly allowed him to do so. He made the most of this chance by winning the 250cc event by some 20 seconds.

I asked how he found the 250 Italian machine in direct comparison with the similar Honda 4. He was not too happy about it initially, pointing out that, as the factory ‘second string’ rider he was always mounted on the two-valve practice bike whereas Pasolini was always riding the faster four-valve machine. In fact, the English rider Phil Read had ridden the four-valve Benelli in the 1969 Isle of Man 250 event, and had been expected to win. Read chased Kel home, settling for second place.

Pasolini was injured again later in 1969, so Kel was ﬁ nally mounted

on the four-valve Benelli, a ‘sweet bike’ which allowed him to win three of the major GP events, with two seconds and two third, securing him sufﬁ cient points for his well-earned 250cc World Championship.

The rules were changed in 1970, with four-cylinder motorcycles ousted, so Kel changed machines very radically, riding 250 and 350cc Yamaha TD2 two-strokes to second place in both the 250 and 350cc World Championships. He enjoyed four wins and three podium places on the 250, but couldn’t manage a win on the larger-capacity machine – or on the 350cc Benelli Four, which he rode on the odd occasion.

He left England and the Continent, moved to America in 1971 to join forces with the burgeoning Yamaha company in the States, signed a contract with Team Yamaha some time later…… and the rest, as they say in the Classics, is history! 

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WHATSAYYOU

LOVE TO HEAR FROM YOU, the letters are among the most keenly read parts of the magazine. Please try and keep letters down to no more than 300 words. Then you can read many, not just a couple. We do reserve the right to cut them and, unless you identify yourself and at least your town or suburb and state, we will print your email address instead. Please address letters to thebear@ausmotorcyclist.com.au or Australian Motorcyclist Magazine, PO Box 2066, Boronia Park NSW 2111. All opinions published here are those of the writers and we do not vouch for their accuracy or even their sanity!

size and then drop Andy a line at info@andystrapz.com to claim their gloves. Please quote your full address to show that you are the person entitled to claim the gloves. And then – ride dry, ride warm! Here is the ﬁrst winner, Michael Ketly, who takes the gloves for the amazing amount of information he has sent us.

LOADS OF INFO

GOT TO HAND IT TO YOU…

Well, tempora mutantur, nos et mutamur in illis. In other words, times change, and we change with them. More importantly, so does our generosity – and that of Andy at Andy Strapz. Instead of the excellent Shoulda Bagz, Andy is now offering a pair of the amazing and highly effective Rain Off Overgloves as a prize for the letter of the month. The gloves are waterproof and have welded seams and elastic forearm closures. They won’t just keep your hands dry, they’ll also keep them warm and even preserve leather gloves worn under them. Warm hands in the cold are priceless, and Andy says that they even make heated grips work better.

The gloves come in ﬁve sizes, so our winners will have to take a look at the Andy Strapz website to work out their

COMFY BUTT

Hi Bear,

I am a regular reader so hope you can spare me a minute or two.

My bike is a Yamaha MT-09 Tracer. It’s great but the seat is a bit hard on my backside. I have used an Airhawk for years but ﬁnd that it slips around a bit much when the time for twisties arrives.

The Bear, Some (hopefully) useful information. Samford Village, Dayboro, Woodford, Kilcoy, Esk, Kenilworth, Mapleton, Montville, Maleny, Beerwah and Landsborough all have good cafés and bakery-cafés. Look for the pushbikes in Montville and Samford. Caboolture (Mathew Terrace, opposite the railway station) has a 24 hour bakery café (CJs) near a tavern; also a branch, one of many, at Woodford opposite the shopping centre that opens at 4am, seven days. Near rides 4, 5, 6, 11 [Hema Maps Australia Motorcycle Atlas]. Two good cafés in Gunning, in the main street and the Telegraph Hotel has excellent meals. You could link rides 28 and 37. New café in Collector, Thursday to Sunday at one end of a good ride to Gundaroo, marked Tree Rd, with views over Lake George to Bungendore –some gravel.

Would you have a seat you could recommend? I don’t want to fork out $500 (eg. Mustang) and would like the money to stay in Oz if possible. Any suggestions? Thanks, David

Hi David, Yes, the Tracer is an awesome bike. I

Regarding Robert Crick’s ride reported in issue 41, as he rode into Bungendore from the north (Tarago), turning right at the little roundabout is a much better choice. Either veer left at the 9km mark to the Federal Highway or straight ahead with a winery/café (ThurSun?) on your left just before you meet the Federal Highway. If your destination is south Canberra (eg Ride 141) turn left after the border into the Majura Parkway. A dull divided road but nice views to the ranges to the south. Back to SE Queensland. If you travel from Mt Mee on to Dayboro, after three kilometres turn right to Mt Mee State Forest Day Use area. After about three kilometres of gravel road on the left is a good ride to Dayboro. At the fork after ﬁve kilometres veers right. A good adventure bike ride –there is a creek crossing at Dayboro so may not be suitable for road bikes. Sunday Creek Road/Booloumba Creek Road south of Kenilworth is another good forest ride – camping areas, walks, rock pools, cascades. Creek crossing at Booloumba Creek is wide and probably not suitable for road bikes. A brochure/map is available at Kenilworth Information Ofﬁce.

Michael Ketly Hawker ACT

know Yamaha has an accessory gel/ comfort seat which will help but there is also a guy in Goulburn NSW that is renowned for making (well-priced) good, comfy seats and he is a motorcyclist so knows what a rider wants.

Give Mick McCarthy a call on 02 4821 6166 and see what he can do for you? Let us know how you go, mate. Cheers, Stuart.

ALPENHORNY

Hey Bear,

Just re-reading the letter from Kerry Boyd in issue number 40, where he (or she) says that the next ride is the Alps. I would like to spend a couple of weeks in the Alps next summer with some friends. Somebody told me that there are lots of motorcycle-friendly hotels there in all the countries and what we would like to do is just go, but without booking and committing ourselves to a route. Would you recommend that? Any other suggestions? We are looking at renting bikes in Munich because we can ﬂy into there without much fuss.

Kevin Breen Weston Creek, ACT

Sounds wonderful to me, Kevin. If it was my ﬁrst ride in/around the Alps I’d head across to the Dolomites and see what suggested itself from there. Avoid the weekend – just settle down and stop somewhere, because the roads and hotels will be full of bikes. It

usually pays to ring ahead in the morning and book your hotel for the next night; there are booklets listing the hotels available everywhere, or you can download information from the web before you leave here. Just put in “motorcycle friendly hotels in the alps”– The Bear

KARUMBA’S FANTASTIC FETE

G’day Peter,

I’m reading my way through the July AMM and have just finished your short piece about Karumba. I spent a few days there in 2007 so thought I might give you a bit of a “Heads Up”. I was part of a flying safari, 30 people in a dozen light aircraft playing aerial gypsies once more across Australia. We arrived early August and fluked to be there during their annual School Fete/Fundraising. It was a grand event, the locals put on courtesy buses to/from our motels and the local policeman was part of the field in a ‘horserace’. Other police from down the road (Normanton) came up to fill

his place. Anyhow, if they still have this event I’d recommend you try to be there for it.

There were really two Karumbas separated by a marshy area. We stayed initially at the Karumba Point Motel where you get a splendid sunset across the water, I don’t recall the location of the caravan park. There was at least one out near the aerodrome but there may have been several. We moved next day to the other part of Karumba, to a motel next to the WWII Catalina ramp. Karumba was a base that the Japs never found, the Gulf is too shallow for their large ships to enter. Alongside the ramp we joined a cruise upstream on the Normanton River, there was a depot where a slurry was piped to from hundreds of kilometres away, dried and loaded onto vessels that carried it out into the deeper section of the Gulf to be transferred to larger ships. We also saw crocodiles along the bank - no swimming in the river!

560mm Tall Handlebar Mounted Screen. Usually $240, but $220 to Australian Motorcyclist readers upon mentioning this ad!

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WHATSAYYOU

We ﬂew into Karumba after a 3 day stop in Burketown and later ﬂew on to overnight in Normanton, at the Purple Pub. In 1987 I slept upstairs in the Purple Pub itself but this trip we stayed in cottages behind the pub. Sorry, I can’t help with road conditions in or out of Karumba, the safaris travelled a few thousand feet up and pretty much in straight lines between places. But Karumba is well worth a few days. They sell cold beer too!

Barry Sadler

Thank you for that information, Barry. But you’ve got me wondering now: a slurry of what? – The Bear

SAD NEWS FROM A REGULAR

Dear Stuart and Bear

My name is Helen, I am Ian Window’s wife. The very sad news is that Ian passed away on 16/4/16.

As you know he was a great reader of (and contributor to) your magazine and, Bear, your name was bandied about in conversations in our house

over many years. You got his letters and emails but I got it all at dinner time and his riding buddies, when they would get together at a family camping weekend or over a well-earned beer, or indeed anyone who was willing to stand still long enough!

Because of your history together I thought you would want to know what happened. Ian was heading off with a mate on a motorbike trip from Qld to NSW for 10 days. You can imagine the weeks of meticulous preparations. They were on top of the world. Our son took a photo of him as he left the driveway, he had his headlight on.

A backpacker camper van pulled out in front of him at the Rainbow Beach junction about 10km from our home and Ian died at the scene. The 20yr old van driver was air-lifted to hospital – I believe she had a brain injury and a week later her father came and took her home to Europe. She had stopped at the stop sign to look at the GPS and didn’t see him when she pulled out. It would have appeared to Ian that she

had stopped at the stop sign to let him go by. It was a 100km/h zone. Our lives and our whole world seems diminished and dimmed with his passing.

Thank you for all the pleasure you gave to Ian through your magazine.

Regards

Helen Window

Oh, Helen, that’s so sad. You’re right, Ian was a highly regarded regular and his opinion was valued by all of us here. I hope you don’t mind that we printed your letter, but we wanted to make sure that all of Ian’s friends found out what happened. We will miss him too, and our thoughts are with you – The Bear

SOUVENIR TIME

Hello,

I have attached a couple of photos in response to your “Souvenirs” column in the July 2016 issue. The Mt Hotham photo is from a trip with a few mates to the Grand Prix at Phillip

ARGENTINA BOLIVIA CHILE PERU

Island in 2000.

At the time we were doing a lot of riding and were perhaps “at the top of our game”.

Visibility was poor and the road was wet but none of us was prepared to give an inch. After half an hour or so we stopped to let one or two slower members of our group to catch up. When we took off again I slowed down a bit for the sake of my health but I still fondly remember the occasion as the most intense ride I have ever experienced on the road.

R 760 LS to consider buying one for Mrs Bear at the time, so it’s nice to see two of them together – The Bear

LONG ARGUMENT

Hey Bear,

The Shell Beach photo was taken at Shark Ba, WA, in 1992. My wife and I were on a six week camping trip from NSW. The photo reminds me of a fantastic time when we didn’t have a care in the world, just the two of us on our bikes exploring fantastic country.

Regards, Phillip Cantwell Bungendore, NSW

Thank you, Phillip! Both of the pics look terriﬁc – I was fond enough of the BMW

When we were talking on the phone the other day you said that you were disappointed that there had only been one or two threats to cancel subscriptions after you had that mechanic with the long legs on the cover. Well I have thought about it and I will cancel my subscription (or I would if I had one) if you don’t have more mechanics with long legs on the cover.

Martin Mehane Marrickville NSW

Martin, your threats would be much more credible if you did have a subscription. Time you

NeWBiKeprices

New motorcycle prices go up, they go down. It can be hard to keep track of all the changes. Australian Motorcyclist Magazine supplies you with all the latest up to date prices

BENELLI

TnT 899

TnT 1130 R $22,690

Tre-K 1130 $18,490 adv touRing

Tre-K Amazonas $19,690

www.bimotaaustralia.com.au Road

from all the manufacturers currently in the country. Things like special deals, cashbacks, factory discounts and bonuses are what you’ll ﬁnd. Bear in mind all prices (unless indicated) exclude dealer and on road costs and some prices may have changed at the last minute as we went to the printer. DB11 $56,990

www.bmwmotorrad.com.au Road

G 310 R $TBA

F 800 R

MV AGUSTA

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Stradale 800

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Turismo Veloce 800 $20,499

Turismo Veloce Lusso 800

Brutale 1090

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www.frasermotorcycles.com.au Commando 961 Sport

Commando 961 Café

961 SF

PGO

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Tiger 800 XRT

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Tiger 800 XC $15,590

Tiger 800 XCX/L $17,950

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VICTORY

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cruiSer

Hammer S LE

BORIS

TRACKING

Mr Mihailovic is unwell. No. no, that’s someone else. Boris is in fact missing in action in the Central Desert. So you get an extract from his book At the Altar of the Road Gods. Steve Brouggy from the Australian Superbike School is trying to prepare him for his debut at Eastern Creek. Now read on…

As I started my second lap in Steve’s wake, things started to come together. I stopped trying to think and just started to ride. I tried to remember to breathe. I remember coming out of Turn Twelve and onto the straight about sixty metres behind Steve, tucking in with my head down, my eyes up, and snicking the screaming Suzuki up through the gears as Turn One, coincidentally one of the fastest totally blind left-hand corners in the world, began to loom ahead of me. You actually have to ‘know’ somehow just when to tip into that corner, because it is blind and because it is fast and because it very quickly sorts the stallions from the mares. You can’t look through it, you just have to ‘know’ it. It’s a Jedi mind-trick that happens at more than 200 kms per hour, and no matter how many times you do Turn One (and I have now done it hundreds of times) the approach to it still ﬁlls my belly with bitter acid and terror. I banged down a gear as I saw

Steve begin his entry and even though I wanted to close my eyes, I didn’t. I just followed him. And it was glorious and faster than I was able to think – so I didn’t think, I just leaned.

Yowling down the short straight after Turn One, I took a fast, ragged breath, slammed down into second gear and set up for Turn Two – a horrid uphill hairpin that’s claimed more scalps than an Apache war-party. There’s a strange ridge in the bitumen just where it shouldn’t have a ridge and there are apparently two lines you can take through it – the wider one manages to avoid the bump, while the tighter one forces you to deal with it. There is a third line, but that will spear you into the tyre wall and is therefore best avoided. Steve chose the tighter one, I followed, feeling the bike soak up the fault-line, and then it was hard on the gas for a nanosecond and up a gear as Turn Three displayed its righthand arrogance for your delectation. Screw this one up and you’ll leave the earth’s gravitational pull and sail into the sky, whereupon you will return to earth and will brieﬂy behold the distant pit garages as dirt and pain and tufts of shitty yellow grass are forcefed into your helmet and your body disassembles itself inside your leathers.

If you make it, you’re now hurtling downhill into another right-hander, Turn Four, which dips and must be held tightly in order for Turn Five’s left-handed evil not to slaughter you and leave you smeared along the concrete wall that’s meant to stop you tumbling into the adjoining dragracing complex a kilometre away.

Turn Six was a slight left with a strange slab of concrete bastardry on the apex (for which the whole turn was removed in the track’s subsequent redesign) which you had to avoid so your pulverised organs would not be poured into a medical waste bucket when the ambos came to get you.

Turn Seven followed, a sharp, spirited left that catapults you up a rise and into the blind, hateful crest of the leftarcing Turn Eight swerving around the strangely named Corporate Hill upon which no corporation has ever stood.

I saw Steve disappear as he crested the rise, and stopped breathing again. I was banked hard left as I apexed and could see Steve and the track again, now on a trailing throttle because it went sharply downhill into the rude, brutally carnivorous hairpin of Turn Nine. This is one of the best places to overtake slowmoving degenerates and pussies, because there is a massive weight transfer onto the front-end under all the fear-braking, causing the back-end to become light, and as you suddenly realise you’re not actually able to steer the bike into the hairpin anymore because you’re going too fast and you’ve locked all your shit up, the men who ride better than you will pass you as your front-end tucks and you face-plant into the bitumen. With any luck you’ll slide off the track and avoid being run over, but you can never be sure. If you don’t crash, and your knee-slider isn’t on the ground anywhere else on the track, it is here where it will rub itself along the bitumen like a dog dragging its wormﬁlled arse along the carpet.

Steve was then hard on the gas out of Nine and heading for the outside of the track, and I followed. This set us up for the gentle right-hand kink that is Turn Ten and then the all important double-apex, slightly uphill nonsense of turns Eleven and Twelve, which must be taken as one corner lest you are lapped like a chicken-ﬂavoured bitch by men with bigger balls and get to sail down the main straight to the laughs of derision and contempt of the crowd. But because Steve’s take on turns Eleven and Twelve was perfect, so was mine. As we hurtled down the straight, I saw him lift his left arm off the bars and signal a thumbs-up to me. This meant that I had done good. His approval warmed me like sunshine. 

PLAY WITH CONTROL.

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