Australian Motorcyclist Issue #32

Page 1


The new Multistrada 1200 takes riding beyond all the barriers of compromise.

Unbeatable on tarmac, perfect and comfortable for long distance travelling, agile through town and fun off the road.

Frontline technologies include the new ground-breaking Testastretta DVT engine instantly providing optimal power and torque, cutting edge Ducati Skyhook Suspension (DSS) Evo and refined electronics including Cruise Control, Backlit

handlebar switches and Ducati Safety Pack with cornering ABS, Traction and Wheelie Control.

Additional with S version; Full colour TFT instrument panel with Ducati Multimedia System (DMS) and full LED headlamp with Cornering technology.

Experience the new Multistrada 1200 and 1200 S by reserving a test ride through your local Authorised Ducati Dealer today.

Extend the warranty coverage of your new Ducati with our Ever Red 12 or 24-month solution. Activate it now and add value to your passion.

$21,990 rideaway

2 year unlimited km warranty

2 year premium roadside assist

BRUTALE DRAGSTER 800 Engineered adrenaline: 3 cylinders, 12 valves, 125 hpMV EAS Electronically assisted shift MVICS (Motor & Vehicle Integrated Control System) integrated ignition and fuel injection system with three injectors, misfire detection and torque control with four maps - Traction Control with eight levels of intervention - ABS and RLM (Rear wheel Lift-up Mitigation) as standard. Warning: it can be addictive.

Editor Stuart Woodbury

Editor Emeritus J Peter Thoeming

Sales Manager Terri Dodd advertise@ausmotorcyclist.com.au

Designer Amy Hale

Photo Editor Nick Wood

Photographers Cain Maitland, Nick Wood

Contributors Emma Ayres, Elspeth Callender, Robert Crick, Joern Delfs, Phil Duncan, Mike Grant, Jim Green, Tony Hill, Robert Lovas, Phil Gadd, Ryan Lucas, Lester Morris, Brendan Nelson, The Possum, Dimitra Schonekas, Guy Stanford, Stuart Strickland, Michael Walley, Colin Whelan

Editorial contactus@ausmotorcyclist.com.au

Subscription enquiries www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au info@ausmotorcyclist.com.au 0412 220 680 or 0418 421 322

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Australian Motorcyclist Magazine is published by Australian Motorcyclist Magazine Pty Ltd. PO Box 2066, Boronia Park NSW 2111 Phone 0412 220 680 or 0418 421 322

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Copyright © Australian Motorcyclist Magazine Pty Ltd ACN 161 432 506 ISSN 2201-5442

We encourage you to keep or recycle this magazine.

what’s he blabbing on about now?

Ilove tinkering away in the garage on motorcycles. I have my CBR900RR race bike, but also a mate and I are building a 1989 Period 6 Yamaha FZR1000. Whenever the postman arrives with new bits and pieces I’ve ordered I just can’t wait to fit them up and progress the project along. Alana seems to think I spend too much time in the garage “playing” with the bikes, but in actual fact it’s probably only two or three hours a week. As you read this I’ve just been preparing my CBR to race in the PCRA one hour endurance race with IomTT racer, Alex Pickett. This has been a culmination of many hours spent in the garage as there was loads to pull apart and get fixed and/ or modified from the last time I raced it at the Barry Sheene Festival of Speed, including getting the suspension completely done by suspension tuner Walter Preisig from Your Suspension Shop. I strongly recommend Walter’s expertise, he will setup your ride perfectly for whatever type of riding you do.

Not only will I be racing my CBR, but I’m also racing an FZR400 with my mate Chris and a CBR125R again with Alex. How did we go? Find out next issue. I really enjoy the fun and relaxing nature of the Post Classic Racing Association of NSW meets. It’s not all cut and thrust, everyone is there to enjoy the old bikes and have fun. So if you’ve ever considered doing a bit of racing, I highly recommend the PCRA NSW or the corresponding classic/historic racing association or club in your State or Territory. You can race as often as each month, or as little as once a year. As my budget is limited (building the FZR1000), I only do two races a year at this stage and can’t wait to get back out there again.

If you want to go to a meeting and check it out first, by all means pop out to a meet and start talking with some of the guys or gals racing. I have found everyone to be friendly and more than willing to offer advice and assistance whenever they can. And once you get talking with people in the various clubs you’ll more than likely find a race bike for sale at a good price. When I mean good price, most bikes are less than ten grand, it’s only the more exotic stuff that reaches beyond that, but start cheap and go from there. I bought my CBR for only $2500, race ready. However I have spent money on it, putting bling and other stuff on, and I’m lucky enough to have my mate, Bassar from 2SUS Custom Resprays who did the standout red paint job.

So that’s how I get my fix on two wheels, but you might like to get your fix by going touring or just on a weekend blast every now and again. As much as my touring with mates is limited (we’re all too busy it seems), I also just love getting out for a weekend or mid-week blast and grabbing a coffee to talk plenty of BS amongst good friends. Two wheeled adventures come in many forms, so long as you’re out there having fun and enjoying only what two wheels can bring – you’re the envy of many. Enjoy!

Cheers, Stuart.

The new S 1000 XR lets you experience sports touring like never before. With a powerful 118 kW (160hp) 4-cylinder engine and a kerbside weight of just 228kg, the XR has a seating position that puts you in control. Two riding modes (rain and road), ABS and traction control are standard, while options include cornering ABS, additional riding modes and quick shift (up and down), as well as cruise control and electronic suspension adjustment. Book a test ride at bmwmotorrad.com.au

GRIZZLING

BEARS ON A ROLL

The café at the eastern base of Cherry Tree Hill, on the Castlereagh Highway in NSW, is open again. There have been a few attempts to make a go of what should be an excellent location, so let’s hope that things go better this time –and let’s also hope that these bears, attempting to make their escape, have had a substantial breakfast at the café!

YOU’RE NICKED – OR MAYBE NOT

In the German state of NordrheinWestfalen, concern about motorcycle crashes was growing to the extent that the police set up a targeted speed control program. Two hundred and fifty police, 50 radar units and video motorcycles were assigned to the job.

Result? A few surprises.

Over the first weekend, the fastest

lawbreaker caught, at 129km/h in a 50 zone, was… driving a car. And one of the police units reported that of the 470 speeding tickets they handed out, most went to drivers, not to motorcyclists.

MOTOMANTIS

Regular reader Ian Window sent us this little gem. He’s captioned it “Aw c’mon... I’ve got the body armour and helmet. Take me for a ride!”

“Hi Bear,” he adds. “I found this little bloke on an old CB outside the local Honda shop. I sent the original pic’ to my daughter who has been keen about all creepy crawly slithery things since she was a toddler (now doing willdlife biology at Uni) and she sent it back with the skid lid added. Good to see the young folk being safety conscious.”

EAR, EAR

Still in Germany, our friends at MOTORRAD magazine, the biggestselling motorcycle magazine in Europe, have done an ear plug comparo. They took 12 different brands (some of which look disturbingly like little condoms) and tested them every which way.

The winners were the MotoSafe earplugs that we use. It’s always good to see your personal and unscientific choice justified by a thorough and reliable test!

HAT HEAVEN?

Will the other States follow Queensland and Victoria and accept helmets that meet the European Standard without Australian Standard certification? If they do, we can probably look forward to quite

Will we be able to wear highly ventilated helmets like this one?

a few new brands and helmet styles. One brand that has seen a lot of interest recently in Australia is Schubert, and this change will almost certainly make it available here. And what about that ventilated BMW helmet? I can’t wait to get my hands on (and my head into) one of those.

This looks to me like a move in the right direction, although we haven’t heard the side of Australia’s helmet importers yet. But it should result in lower prices, too.

Peter ‘The Bear’ Thoeming

STILL YOUNG

Yamaha turns 60 Yamaha is 60 and to celebrate Yamaha Motor Australia has organised a travelling roadshow truck complete with vintage model display. The fi rst event took place at Chris Watson Motorcycles in Cessnock, NSW and both the 60th anniversary display truck and the range of vintage models were big hits, as was a host of Yamaha motorcycling legends who greeted the crowd and signed limited edition posters. Check out www.yamahamotorsports. com.au/60years to fi nd out more about Yamaha’s 60th anniversary and the travelling roadshow itinerary.

FLASHING WITH STYLE

Shark Skwal helmet and Segura apparel launch Ficeda Accessories, importers of Shark helmets, recently launched the new Shark Skwal helmet which features green LEDs in the front and rear, but the main focus of the launch was introducing Segura apparel into the Australian market. High quality and high on style, anyone after the best in quality should be looking at the Segura range. Visit www.fi ceda.com.au for more.

DON’T MISS THE ACTION!

include powered sites, and the new layout means Go Karts will operate all world superbike weekend for some extra fun. There’s plenty of highhorsepower plans afoot, so plan now for a summer weekend away with mates next February at the supersall at a totally affordable price. Tickets go on sale early September. For further information go to www.worldsbk.com.au

FINALLY, SOME SENSE!

Euro helmet specs for VIC Victorian riders welcomed an announcement by VicRoads legalising the use of European ECE 22.05

World superbikes 2016 at Phillip Island Australia will once again launch the Superbike World Championship, with the opening round for 2016 awarded to Victoria’s Phillip Island Grand Prix circuit and slated for February 26-28, 2016*. Backing the world superbike racing will be the world supersport boys kicking off their 2016 campaigns plus Australia’s leading road racing classes. Phillip Island is revamping the campground to

motorcycle helmets. This step brings Victoria in line with Queensland and provides Victorian riders with the opportunity to access and use the world’s safest helmets. Surely the rest of the other States and Territories will follow suite shortly?

FOR THE GENTS

Triumph raise big for prostate cancer

The global charity auction of an iconic Triumph Scrambler ridden by action hero Chris Pratt in the Jurassic World movie closed after ten days and 90 bids. The bespoke bike, which was featured racing alongside Raptors in

the blockbuster, is a one-off piece of movie history and raised AU$60,100 in aid of those battling Prostate Cancer, via Triumph’s offi cial charity partner The Distinguished Gentleman’s Ride.

A NEW WORLD ON THE GOLD COAST

Iron and Resin opening in Australia

Mid-September will see Australia’s fi rst Iron and Resin Garage open at Currumbin on the Gold Coast. At this retail hub for the entire range of the US brand’s Iron and Resin apparel, riding gear and accessories, Australian motorcyclists will be able to explore the I & R world in a destination built for riders. The reclaimed industrial space of I&R provides easy access, dedicated bike parking, plenty of seating and is located just minutes from the Gold Coast airport, the M1 Motorway and the famous Gold Coast beaches. Visit www.ironandresin.com.au for more.

PROVE IT!

Draggin Jeans

FEEL THE PULSE

We all know there are copycat goods out there. A lot of companies claim to be using Kevlar in their products and Draggin have seen it all. How do

Draggin prove it? You will now fi nd on every pair of Draggin Classics, a tag which has an Izon security label on it, which you then scan with your smartphone. It will direct you to a link which certifi es the authenticity of this product. See www.dragginjeans.net for more.

Victory Empulse TT electric bike

Building on the innovative design and engineering that produced the fastest US electric motorcycle at the 2015 Isle of Man TT Zero race, Victory Motorcycles has introduced the 2016 Empulse TT, the fi rst all-electric addition to the Victory lineup. Only available in the US at this stage, hopefully it won’t be long before it makes its way to Australia - probably after an evaluation period.

AFRICAN SUMMER

Honda Africa Twin details and pricing

This 1000cc adventure motorcycle is tipped to set a new benchmark in the adventure touring market when 3 models go on sale in Australia early 2016 which is sure to make it a hot summer for those waiting on its arrival. With a manufacturer’s list price of $15,499 for the Standard, $16,999 for ABS and $17,999 for ABS-DCT models, your next adventure is not far away. 

MV AGUSTA’S 800 LAUNCH

WE RIDE THE NEW TRIPLES FROM MV. BELLISSIMO!

WORDS STUART WOODBURY PHOTOS TIM MUNRO

MV Agusta has gone through a couple of hands in Australia over the past few years, now that it is in the hands of Urban Moto Imports, the company that produces, “Motorcycle Art” should finally be set to stay in this country. MV produces beautiful looking machines and their performance is up there with some of the best. We got to ride the new 800 triple cylinder range

– Dragster, Dragster RR, F3, Stradale and Turismo Veloce (all except for the Brutale) over a wide range of road conditions and here is what we thought of each model.

ENGINE

Weighing in at just 52 kg and being extremely compact despite the displacement, the 798cc in-line 3-cylinder engine optimises weight distribution while the counter-rotating crankshaft enhances the dynamic performance of the 800 MV range. These characteristics make this engine one of the most advanced triples in the world. Each of the five bikes has different power output, and like any other three cylinder bike on the market, they are a lot of fun to ride.

With each of the bikes we rode you can change both power maps and traction control settings on the move and all come with quickshifters as standard. The engine maps on the Dragster, Dragster RR, F3 and Stradale are labelled as Rain, Normal and Sport, with the Turismo Veloce having Rain, Touring and Sport. Each of the bikes has eight levels of traction control to dial in. On the Dragster RR and Turismo Veloce, the quickshifter works for both up and down in Sport, in the other modes, it only works on upshifts.

SPECS

MV AGUSTA DRAGSTER 800

PRICE: $20,499 (plus on-road charges)

WARRANTY:Two years, unlimited distance

POWER: 92kW @ 11,600rpm

TORQUE: 81Nm @ 8600rpm

TRANSMISSION: 6-speed, wet multi-plate clutch, chain final drive

SUSPENSION: Front, 43mm inverted fork, adjustable preload, compression and rebound, travel 125mm. Rear, monoshock, adjustable preload, compression and rebound, travel 125mm.

DIMENSIONS: Seat height 811mm, weight 167kg (dry), fuel capacity 16.6 litres, wheelbase 1380mm

BRAKES: Front, twin 320mm discs with radial mount four-piston switchable ABS calipers. Rear, 220mm disc, dual-piston switchable ABS caliper.

COLOURS:White, Matt Metallic Grey

VERDICT: STYLISH FUN

DRAGSTER 800

The “standard” Dragster 800 is an aggressively styled naked machine that is compact in riding position, yet supportive. The suspension is setup sporty and you get a quickshifter (up only), standard. If you can’t stretch the extra bucks for the RR version, this is a great machine to ride and get you noticed by onlookers. The fuelling on the Dragster was my only concern, at just off closed throttle it would hunt along making a rough ride. You can ride around it, but the answer for fixing it would be a fuel controller. Braking is powerful and as a fun bike to ride, the Dragster ticks this box with a big fat green pen!

SPECS

MV AGUSTA DRAGSTER RR

PRICE: $22,999 (plus on-road charges)

WARRANTY:Two years, unlimited distance

POWER: 103kW @ 13,100rpm

TORQUE: 86Nm @ 10,100rpm

TRANSMISSION: 6-speed, wet multi-plate clutch, chain final drive

SUSPENSION: Front, 43mm inverted fork, adjustable preload, compression and rebound, travel 125mm. Rear, monoshock, adjustable preload, compression and rebound, travel 125mm.

DIMENSIONS: Seat height 811mm, weight 168kg (dry), fuel capacity 16.6 litres, wheelbase 1380mm

BRAKES: Front, twin 320mm discs with radial mount four-piston switchable ABS calipers. Rear, 220mm disc, dual-piston switchable ABS caliper.

COLOURS: Pearl Shock Red/Pearl Ice White, Pearl Shock Red/Carbon Metallic Black

VERDICT: SHOW TO MATCH THE GO!

Dragster 800
Dragster RR

DRAGSTER RR

The most stylish of this group (in my eyes) is the Dragster RR. I just couldn’t stop looking at this angry, yet pretty motorcycle. The delectable spoked wheels and anodised hubs stand out at a standstill and the anodised fully adjustable red forks add to the visual delight. It also has the go to match the show, the 800 triple punches out 103kW with things like six injectors and other mods to produce some sweet numbers, and it’s matched with a quickshifter for both up and down shifts (while in Sport mode), making this beast a very swift machine if you want it to be. Of all the MV’s at the launch, this is the one I would buy (the carbon black version).

F3 800

A seriously under-rated sportsbike in my eyes. If you match the 108.8kW to the light 173kg (dry) weight and the electronics package, you have a formidable package that will be much easier to ride than the litre bikes and have you dicing with them. Quickshifter fitted is for up only. It would be nice to have it for the downshifts also, which would make this bike even faster to ride. The F3 is a stunningly good looking motorcycle that gets people perving all over it at a standstill.

STRADALE 800

If you come from a dirt bike and want a tourer or a similar (dirt bike) feeling road bike – the Stradale is the exact bike you’d be after. The riding position is very much the flat bar and flat seating

position, yet the Stradale’s seat is sculpted for a bit more comfort. Handling is extremely light, making turn in lightning fast. Quickshifter fitted is for up only and one of the best styling features about the Stradale is seeing it from the rear. With the panniers fitted, the tail lights are operated via the lights fitted in the panniers, when they’re “disconnected”, the tail lights fitted to the bike take over. It’s not your “run of the mill” motorcycle and will have you wanting to see more of it, not to mention the masses of other riders wanting to ask, “what is that thing”? No doubt when you’ve just blasted past them and are already sipping on your coffee.

TURISMO VELOCE 800

The newest of the MV 800 range is the sports touring Tursimo Veloce. Suspension is compliant and full adjustable, with the rear also having a remote preload adjuster. I gave the rear two turns more of preload and I’d probably go with a turn or two on the front for a unit my size. With its upright bar and lightweight nature, handling

SPECS

MV AGUSTA F3 800

MODEL: MV Agusta F3 800

PRICE: $19,999 (plus on-road charges)

WARRANTY:Two years, unlimited distance

POWER: 108.8kW @ 13,000rpm

TORQUE: 88Nm @ 10,600rpm

TRANSMISSION: 6-speed, wet multiplate clutch, chain final drive

SUSPENSION: Front, 43mm inverted fork, adjustable preload, compression and rebound, travel 125mm. Rear, monoshock, adjustable preload, compression and rebound, travel 123mm.

DIMENSIONS: Seat height 805mm, weight 173kg (dry), fuel capacity 16.5 litres, wheelbase 1380mm

BRAKES: Front, twin 320mm discs with radial mount four-piston switchable ABS calipers. Rear, 220mm disc, dual-piston switchable ABS caliper.

COLOURS: Pearl Ice White/Matt Avio Grey, Red/Ago Silver, Matt Metallic Senna Black

VERDICT: DON’T UNDERESTIMATE THIS SWEET LOOKER.

F3 800
Turismo Veloce

SPECS

MV AGUSTA STRADALE 800

MODEL: MV Agusta

PRICE: $19,999 (plus on-road charges)

WARRANTY:Two years, unlimited distance

POWER: 84.5kW @ 11,000rpm

TORQUE: 78.5Nm @ 9000rpm

TRANSMISSION: 6-speed, wet multi-plate clutch, chain final drive

SUSPENSION: Front, 43mm inverted fork, adjustable preload, compression and rebound, travel 150mm. Rear, monoshock, adjustable preload, compression and rebound, travel 150mm.

DIMENSIONS: Seat height 870mm, weight 181kg (dry), fuel capacity 16 litres, wheelbase 1460mm

BRAKES: Front, twin 320mm discs with radial mount four-piston switchable ABS calipers. Rear, 220mm disc, dual-piston switchable ABS caliper.

COLOURS: Pearl White/Sand Metallic Grey, Red/Silver, Bronze Metallic/Pearl White

VERDICT: DIRT BIKE BOYS, YOUR TOURER IS HERE!

is relaxing and the slightest push of the bar is all you need for turn in – an excellent bike to be on for all day touring. The engine has the least amount of power in the range, but this is hardly noticeable. Its characteristics are smooth and having the quickshifter for both up and down changes makes touring very relaxing (again, it needs to be in Sport mode for this). A 5 inch TFT interactive instrument panel is easy to use and gives the bike a unique, top-of-the-range look. There’s also plenty of scope for personalisation: you can even configure

your own preferred data display setting with the utmost ease via the simple to use switchgear on the left switch block.

For comfort the adjustable screen is a pinch type arrangement and can be used while riding. I preferred it all the way down, which moved a good amount of wind away from my chest, with anything above this it buffeted my helmet.

As with all the bikes here, you can cycle through the eight levels of traction and the power modes on the fly, done via the starter button. MV has given you a great mid-sized tourer that is light and easy to handle, with plenty of useable power – something many of you would be looking for.

ACCESSORIES

All of the bikes have an extensive range of accessories available. On bikes like the Dragster RR you can spend thousands on carbon fibre, or at the opposite end, you can invest in touring gear for the Turismo Veloce. A great range for each bike allows owners to create their own piece of “art”.

TRIPLE THE FUN

The only 800 model missing from this launch was the Brutale 800. It is similar to the Dragster 800, yet with a more aggressive riding position. But, the main point here is that MV Agusta appears to be here to stay in Australia which is such a great thing to have. You can’t miss any of these machines, as the triple exhaust exits really make a statement and say, “Hello”! The two standout machines for me were the Dragster RR and the Turismo Veloce. You can have the bling for a weekend coffee run and the style for your touring. 

SPECS

MV AGUSTA TURISMO VELOCE 800

PRICE: $20,499 (plus on-road charges)

WARRANTY:Two years, unlimited distance

POWER: 81kW @ 10,000rpm

TORQUE: 83Nm @ 8000rpm

TRANSMISSION: 6-speed, wet multiplate clutch, chain final drive

SUSPENSION: Front, 43mm inverted fork, adjustable preload, compression and rebound, travel 160mm. Rear, monoshock, adjustable remote preload, compression and rebound, travel 165mm.

DIMENSIONS: Seat height 850mm, weight 191kg (dry), fuel capacity 22 litres, wheelbase 1460mm

BRAKES: Front, twin 320mm discs with radial mount four-piston switchable ABS calipers. Rear, 220mm disc, dual-piston switchable ABS caliper.

COLOURS: Silver/Avio Grey, Red/Silver

VERDICT: RELAX AND ENJOY THE STYLE.

Stradale
Stuart is wearing a Shoei Hornet ADV helmet, BMW Streetguard suit, Dririder Rapid gloves and Sidi Vertigo boots.
“THIS IS THE NEW BMW S 1000 XR IN A NUTSHELL – A SPORTSBIKE WITH A PROPER UPRIGHT BAR AND PROPER TOURING CAPABILITIES”

Take the fastest sportsbike, turn it into a naked hypersports and then turn it into an amazing sports tourer, (or as BMW calls it – an Adventure Sport bike). This is

the new BMW S 1000 XR in a nutshell – a sportsbike with a proper upright handlebar and proper touring capabilities. To prove the point, the Australian launch set about tackling some

LAUNCH

of the crappiest roads in the country, those being in northern NSW and southern Queensland, centred around the Lions Road.

BMW has taken the popular naked S 1000 R with its retuned S 1000 RR sportsbike engine and frame and fitted it with a wide, upright handlebar and touring capabilities that allow large panniers and topbox to be fitted. Of the bikes available to ride during the launch I picked one with an accessory

topbox, accessory HP Sport seat with its embroidered ‘XR’ logo, and HP fork and engine protectors.

All of the bikes were fitted with the accessory Dynamic and Touring package, raising the $22,190 price tag to $25,325 plus on roads. This is how BMW sees the XR being delivered to owners – with all the fruit. Basically, if you want a standard one, you’ll need to order it.

A couple of different features are built into the XR over the model it’s based on –

the S 1000 R. Fuel capacity is up by four litres to twenty litres total, you get a larger rear brake disc for the increased loads of carrying gear or a pillion and the XR has more airbox induction baffling to reduce noise for the rider.

The in-line four cylinder engine is that from the RR, then retuned (not detuned) for the R and being shared with the XR. The numbers 118kW and 112Nm are of reassuring and wholesome goodness. Use the vast amounts of electronics fitted to

SONG

this bike and not only is it a safe bike to ride, but you can ride it insanely fast if you wish – with safety. If you’re a bit mad, you can turn it all off, set the power mode to Dynamic and let loose, but as someone said to me recently, all the electronics need to do is save your arse once and you’ll love them forever. That’s pretty true. ABS Pro is one of those electronic types that will save many a rider. Another name for “cornering ABS”, operating when you have the bike cranked over and whack the brakes on, the algorithms being calculated inside the ABS computer take over, allowing you to steer the bike. Gear Shift Assist Pro for clutchless up and down shifts is a must for any bike nowadays. Once you ride with it, you won’t want to change ever again, not even in your next lifetime! And then there is Dynamic ESA (Electronic Suspension Adjustment); not only will your touring be much more relaxing, it’s actually a piece of technology that makes your riding safer. These are but a few of the high level electronics featured on the S 1000 XR. In fact the main touring features built into the XR are the extra suspension travel, slightly altered geometry and the different riding position.

Suspension length of 150mm in the front and 140mm in the rear, combined with Dynamic ESA, gives you all the comfort you’ll ever need. If the crap roads we travelled during the launch are any sort of test, I never felt uncomfortable or out of control riding at highway speeds over heavily chopped up pieces of bitumen.

The riding position is what will be the big seller for the XR, being a sit up and beg style arrangement. You could be forgiven for thinking that the seat height, actually 840mm, is much closer to 800mm. It all comes down to the tapered shape of the front of the seat, which allows you easier access to the ground for your feet. If you aren’t completely satisfied with the seat height you can get the Low seat option, which brings it down to 820mm or the Extra Low seat option (requiring Low suspension also), which brings the seat height down to 790mm. However, if you’re tall like me, you can get the accessory 855mm High seat with its embroidered “XR” logo. The bike I rode during the launch had the accessory “XR”

embroidered Sport seat which leaves the height standard at 840mm. Got all that?

Seat to peg distance is roomy and the reach to the nice width handlebar is extremely comfortable, although the bar is a little buzzy from 112km/h to 118km/h. Some of the other riders on the launch felt this buzziness at significantly higher speeds, others more around the 120km/h mark. This buzz is minimal but worth mentioning because the XR is such a good bike. You just don’t expect it. Aside from this, the bar offers plenty of leverage, making handling light and relaxing. Braking is extremely powerful, being the same front setup as the R. You’ll love the power and feel available. The larger 265mm rear disc gives more feel over the R and will be welcomed while carrying a pillion or packed full with luggage.

SPECS

BMW S 1000 XR

PRICE: $22,190 ($25,325 as tested) (plus on-road charges)

WARRANTY:Two years, unlimited distance

SERVICING INTERVALS: Every 10,000km or 12 months

As with the R 1200 RS we featured in the last issue of AMM, the headlight arrangement will get you crosseyed the first couple of times you go face to face with the bike. The actual design is a symmetrical one, yet the internal reflectors are asymmetrical. Don’t worry, you’ll get your head around after a couple of times looking at it.

The instrument panel supplies all the touring information you could want and there’s a 12V power socket integrated into the fairing,

Design wise, the XR does have that beaked adventure touring look, yet, once you look at it a bit more, you see the sports and touring DNA that BMW bring to the table. The muffler has been purposely set lower than the RR or R, so a full sized right hand pannier can be fitted, for example.

Accessories are extensive from touring, to performance, to bling there’s more than just a handful you’ll want to fit to the XR.

As much as BMW Motorrad call the new S 1000 XR its “Adventure Sport” machine, it is another take on the sports touring genre and more. It’s not a bike you’d ride off-road, but anywhere else, even on gravel, it’s good to go. The XR is an overall relaxing bike to tour on and when it comes time to hit the fun button, it does that better than most. 

ENGINE: Liquid-cooled in-line four cylinder, 4-stroke, DOHC, 4 valves per cylinder

BORE x STROKE: 80 x 49.7mm

DISPLACEMENT: 999cc

COMPRESSION: 12.0:1

POWER: 118kW @ 11,000rpm

TORQUE: 112Nm @ 9250rpm

TRANSMISSION: 6-speed, wet multi-plate slipper clutch, chain final drive

SUSPENSION: Front, 46mm inverted fork, electronically adjustable, travel 150mm. Rear, monoshock, electronically adjustable, travel 140mm.

DIMENSIONS: Seat height 840mm, weight 228kg (wet), fuel capacity 20 litres, wheelbase 1548mm

TYRES: Front, 120/70/ZR17. Rear, 190/55/ZR17

FRAME: Aluminium perimeter

BRAKES: Front, twin 320mm discs with radial four-piston switchable ABS calipers. Rear, 265mm disc, dual-piston switchable ABS caliper.

FUEL CONSUMPTION: 6.1-8.2 litres per 100km, premium unleaded

THEORETICAL RANGE: 244-327km

COLOURS: Racing Red, Light White.

VERDICT:TOUR, SPORT OR WHATEVER, ADVENTURES AWAIT.

Join the next Trip of a Lifetime with MOTORCYCLIST and Paradise Motorcycle Tours NZ. Our 2016 Hiamo South Island tour will run from 26 Jan to 6 Feb 2016 – 11 days of glorious roads and scenery that will knock your socks off. Everyone who came on the 2015 Hiamo Tour was stunned at the amazing sights and even more amazing roads.

For 2016 we have more riding, more scenery – Kaikoura, Hanmer Springs Thermal Resort, Lewis Pass and Buller Gorge Road - more of the wild West Coast and a free day to explore the Otago Peninsula.

So from the front or back of your nearnew rental bike (the most up to date fleet in NZ) you’ll experience even more of the South Island, and this time we go anti-clockwise!

Another guide has been added, too. With the high demand for this tour, Paradise Motorcycle Tours is adding a second motorcycle guide, which means

EXPERIENCE PURE NIRVANA

RIDE THE LAND OF PARADISE

there can be two groups, each with a guide, to maximize your safety and enjoyment.

More options are another benefit of having two guides. You can take a shorter route on some days to relax and explore the final day’s destination, or enjoy a longer route for maximum riding time and sights from the saddle. I really look forward to seeing you there, if you want the best time of your life and want to experience the highest state of happiness that you could attain, remember to book as early as possible, because this will be a very popular tour. SW

Booking:

Contact Paradise Motorcycle Tours onPh: +64 9473 9404, email info@paradisemotorcycletours.co.nz or visit the website www.paradisemotorcycletours.co.nz

Here is a quick rundown of the tour:

Day one - Christchurch to Hanmer Springs (via Kaikoura)

Day two – Hanmer Springs to Punakaiki

Day three – Punakaiki to Franz Josef: Choose from two ride options today.

Day four – Franz Josef to Queenstown

Day five – Free day to explore Queenstown

Day six – Queenstown to Te Anau: Choose from two riding options today.

Day seven – Milford Sound: with a two hour cruise on the Sound.

Day eight – Te Anau to Dunedin

Day nine – Free day to explore Dunedin

Day ten – Dunedin to Tekapo

Day eleven – Tekapo to Christchurch

Early Arrival Option **Highly Recommended**

Be rested and ready for the tour of a lifetime with the addition of an early arrival option.

Remember that this guided tour is fully supported by the Paradise staff in their van and the professionalism is top class, to make sure that you’ll have the best time possible!

The cost – Please Note: All tour prices are PER PERSON in New Zealand dollars inclusive of GST and you have the choice of two variations.The Deluxe tour covers petrol and most breakfasts and dinners and a higher level of accommodation. If you choose the Kia Ora tour, you buy your own petrol and all meals (other than the welcome and farewell dinners)

You may remember that some time ago we fitted a set of Bridgestone’s T30 sport touring tyres to a Honda VFR800X Crossrunner. Well, those tyres have fared extremely well, getting around 13,000km and being consistent in performance throughout their life. So when we heard that Bridgestone has

BRIDGESTONE BATTLAX T30 EVO

GREAT, BECOMES AMAZING!

just released the updated T30 EVO, we had to get a set and do a back to back test with the original T30s.

The T30 EVO has been developed in response to the growing number of motorcyclists who want a touring tyre that offers them the peace of mind of consistent and comfortable performance on wet and dry surfaces – yet still gives them plenty of sporty handling and fun. The technical aim for Bridgestone was therefore to maintain the T30’s superb dry performance while upgrading its wet performance – and this has been achieved with specialised new compounds.

Wet performance has been transformed by the development of these new-formula compounds that increase friction on wet surfaces. The modified compound applied to the front tyre in combination with another newlydeveloped compound on the centre strip of the rear tyre improve wet without sacrificing dry performance. They do this over a wider temperature operating range, as well as providing more stability, particularly for heavily-loaded touring bikes.

Test data from Bridgestone proving grounds and laboratories claim that the new T30 EVO provides up to 20% more grip, slide control and traction on wet surfaces than the current T30, giving riders shorter braking distances and a greater feeling of control. We did notice the extra grip, but especially the loads of feel,

WORDS STUART WOODBURY

combining to make for a more relaxed touring experience.

The other part of the equation is the T30 EVO tread design. Here, the rear pattern has been reengineered with sub-grooves extending to the centre strip which increases water channelling away from the contact patch, giving riders more secure traction in wet conditions. At the same time, the curved grooves have been moved outwards to create a rib along the centre strip, adding stiffness to the tread for stability when accelerating. This change also increases the size of the contact area with the lean angle, adding more grip and enabling the rider to corner in greater safety.

While it has been hard to test these tyres in the wet because rain has been pretty infrequent, we did get out in an afternoon storm and loved the grip available. Not once did the T30 EVO feel like losing traction, again making for a more relaxed ride, because you can just get on with riding, not worrying what may or may not happen.

The new Bridgestone Battlax T30 EVO comes with a huge ten out of ten from us. If you want a sports touring tyre that behaves exactly right, look no further. 

Stuart is wearing a Shoei NXR helmet, Berik Force 2.0 one piece suit, Held Titan gloves, Forcefield Blade back protector and Alpinestars Supertech R boots.

When you’ve won numerous championships around the world. Not only do you know that the base package has to be a good thing, but Aprilia’s RSV4 has been given some minor improvements over last year’s model as well, making it sharper in all areas.

Now called the RSV4 RR the delightful visceral-sounding V4 powerplant has been handed a 2.5kg weight reduction and a slight boost in power and torque. It is now sitting at 149.8kW and 115Nm, and the RR pulls like a train out of corners and

motors especially fast down the straights.

For the launch we were lucky enough to get the RR out to the track and give it a decent thrash. Try 290kmh down the chute at Sydney Motorsport Park recorded on the dash. That is some serious speed barrelling down into Turn One, so thankfully the RR has the latest generation Brembo monoblock calipers and Bosch Race ABS. I rode the RR with ABS off and then with it set on level 1, finding that level 1 gave me that little bit of a safety factor in case I stuffed up my braking marker all together.

The electronics package (APRC, Aprilia Performance Ride Control), which includes traction control, wheelie control and launch control has been refined. I didn’t use launch control, but it has to be the easiest to activate of all the latest litre bikes fitted with this feature. All you need to do is hold both of the plus/minus buttons on the left hand bar together for a couple of seconds until the dash tells you it’s activated.

I’m not an overly big fan of wheelie control as it is normally too interactive when blasting along at the track

Tuono 1100 RR

We also got to have a blast around the track on the new Tuono 1100 RR which is such a hoot to ride.We are just about to ride it on the road and then we can give you the full review of this hypernaked weapon.

(however it is a good thing to have on the road), I tried the RR on level 1 and it was okay, but I preferred it switched off.

But, the standout for me was the traction control. Of all the litre bikes, the RR is so smooth you hardly notice it working. I started on level 4 and worked my way to level 2 which allowed a bit of slip out of corners but had enough safety in case I got too ham fisted and

sideways. This ultimately allowed me to accelerate faster out of corners – perfect!

The RSV4 has long been renowned for having a very tall first gear and the same was noticed on the track with just about everyone only hitting the rev limiter in 4th and maybe touching 5th gear at times. Dropping one tooth off the front would be an excellent idea for an owner, as it will make the RR easier to ride on the road from a standstill and give you extra punch by allowing the engine to get into its meaty torque range.

SPECS

RSV4 RR

PRICE: $25,000 (ride away)

Suspension on the RR has been refined with the engine being lowered slightly and the bike that I rode at the launch had been set up as per world superstock settings (around 17mm higher in the rear and so on), but when I first rode the bike it had been softened in the front from these settings. It handled well, but not as well as I knew it could, so after some adjustments on the compression the RR would point at the corner as I wanted it to, allowing me to get on the throttle earlier.

Accessories are performance orientated as you’d expect, along with some tasty bling. The exciting accessory is the V4-MP (multimedia platform) which allows you to use your smartphone and the web for real time data – very useful for racing or trackday fans.

Aprilia’s new RSV4 RR is a lot of bike for the $25,000 ride away price tag. It looks exotic, sounds like no other and is extremely fast. Get out and test one, I think you’ll love it. 

WARRANTY:Two years, unlimited distance

SERVICING INTERVALS: Every 10,000km or 12 months

ENGINE: Liquid-cooled V4 cylinder, 4-stroke, DOHC, 4 valves per cylinder

BORE x STROKE: 78 x 52.3mm

DISPLACEMENT: 999.6cc

COMPRESSION: 13.6:1

POWER: 148kW @ 13,000rpm

TORQUE: 115Nm @ 10,500rpm

TRANSMISSION: 6-speed, wet multi-plate slipper clutch, chain final drive

SUSPENSION: Front, 43mm inverted fork, adjustable preload, compression and rebound, travel 120mm.

Rear, monoshock, adjustable preload, compression and rebound, travel 130mm.

DIMENSIONS: Seat height 847mm, weight 180kg (dry), fuel capacity 18.5 litres, wheelbase 1420mm

TYRES: Front, 120/70/ZR17.

Rear, 200/55/ZR17

FRAME: Aluminium perimeter

BRAKES: Front, twin 320mm discs with radial mount four-piston switchable ABS calipers. Rear, 220mm disc, dual-piston switchable ABS caliper.

FUEL CONSUMPTION: N/A

THEORETICAL RANGE: N/A

COLOURS: Bucine Grey, Black Ascari

VERDICT: BE A CHAMPION.

APRILIA
Finding one’s way in this terrain was a challenge even for our Mongolian guide and support team “ ”

Western Mongolia is stark and remote, mostly bare of trees, with a mix of open steppe, hills and rocky outcrops, and semi-desert. Even in the more fertile parts, large sand dunes with wide sandy grasslands surround partly ice-covered lakes. We

encountered isolated gers (yurts) with the family livestock nearby or being watched by a lone nomad on his pony.

Mongolia remains a mystery to most. Once it was ruled by Genghis Khan. Then it was his grandson

Kubilai Khan. It was once the greatest land empire the world has seen. It had a humble beginning with a small tribe, the Mongols, and an ambitious young leader called Temujin, who was destined to become the Great Khan – the Genghis Khan. Today, it’s again a humble backwater still better known for its past than its present.

While the Gobi Desert to the east and south and the reindeer people of the north are increasingly gaining tourist attraction, the far west of Mongolia is less known, except, perhaps, for the famed Kazakh eagle hunters.

It was through this wilderness of steppe, desert and mountains that we ventured on the not-so-well suited Royal Enfield Bullets.

ON YOUR BIKES

The ride started in the western town of Uliastai nestled in the foothills of Mongolia’s second biggest mountain range – the Khangai Mountains. We flew

there from the capital, Ulaanbaatar, and met up with our bikes – all set to go at our already established camp site just out of town.

Our first task in Uliastai was to get acquainted with the bikes and take a short run into town for a bit of sightseeing and purchase of last minute supplies. Beer and vodka were the obvious (read ‘only’) options for evening relaxation!

Next morning it was break camp and begin the saga – without really knowing what was in store for us beyond a few general descriptions.

VENTURING INTO THE WILDERNESS

Over the first few days riding, we became acutely aware of this amazing country. Finding one’s way in this terrain was a challenge even for our Mongolian guide and support team. There was lots of stopping to talk to local nomads and discussions amongst our crew to determine which valley we should head

for. There were no roads as such; and a lot of our riding was across open grasslands dodging the plentiful rocks and marmot holes that hide in the low covering grass.

Battling the edges of the dunes at our first camp at Khar Lake was our initial introduction to sand; but there was more to come in the thick drifts in the wheel ruts of the “roads”. We also faced our first river crossing. That was a fun challenge. Nobody dropped a bike but a few got very wet feet.

THE GREAT LAKES DEPRESSION

The next stage was making our way along wheel tracks and over grasslands heading roughly north-west to meet up with the main “highway” going west, which, in reality, was a confusing maze of wheel tracks spread across a few hundred metres and constantly crisscrossing one another. Soon after reaching it, we stopped at the town of Songnio to refuel and stock up on

SOUTH AFRICA TOUR

★ Cape Town

★ Swartberg Pass

★ Chapman‘s Peak

★ Pilgrim‘s Rest

★ Ezulwini Valley

★ Grahamstown

AT A GLANCE

START/FINISH: Johannesburg / Cape Town

NEAREST AIRPORT: Johannesburg / Cape Town

DURATION: 16 days vacation, 14 riding days

ROUTE: Total distance 2410 - 2650 miles (3880 - 4260 km). Daily rides 125 - 290 miles (200 - 460 km). The entire route runs on good asphalt roads with short sections on natural surface roads.

ACCOMMODATIONS: Comfortable lodges, middle-class hotels and bungalows.

REST DAYS: Kruger National Park, Cape Town

supplies in anticipation of three days without any permanent habitation. Got lots of attention from the local folk, especially the kids. We were obviously items of great curiosity. It wasn’t too far further west that we entered the Great Lakes Depression. This is a vast area of semi-arid desert.

In fact, it’s regarded as a northern extension of the Great Gobi Desert. The terrain changed from the thicker vegetation of the rolling grasslands with a fi rm soil base to a much fl atter, sandy base with a thin scattering of short struggling grass. Close up, the grass barely camoufl aged the sandy

base, and at a distance the ground had a vaguely yellow hue.

The maze of wheel tracks refl ected the desert terrain, with an ample supply of loose sand particularly in the deeper ruts. The tracks varied in their fi rmness of compacted sand, some road base of sorts at times and 1 4

treacherous soft sand. There were lots of times when riding on the thinly grassed sand base beside the tracks was a better option.

After four days of sand dunes, water crossings, open steppe and confusing wheel tracks, we were stunned by the sudden appearance

of tarmac as we approached the large salt water Khyargas Lake. It was a pleasant surprise and a welcome relief for the rest of the day. No sooner had we reached the bitumen than we stopped for lunch, which we could comfortably have in the middle of the road –

undisturbed over an hour and a half. The bitumen took us to a

1. Bactrian camel
2. Town of Uliastai
3. No one’s coming, let’s have lunch!
4. Route went from right to left

point along the north shore of the lake for the night’s camp. A rare opportunity for a full body wash and an afternoon enjoying the lake view.

SOUTH TO KHOVD

It was a long day today but not all riding. We woke to a savage westerly that was proceeding to dismantle the camp before we could intervene. Although we had planned for a late start the wind forced us to break camp ahead of schedule.

The first 50km was on the bitumen road riding at an awry angle struggling with the wind. Then came the turnoff to head for the night’s destination. The next 30-40km was across open semi-desert whose base alternated between fine shale, sand and a mixture of both. The fine shale was deepish and loose, competing with sand to be the most challenging and tiring experience. Then followed sections of decomposed granite,

soil, sandy loam, grass, rocks… and whatever! The wind kept up and was later supplemented by rain. We stopped at the small village of Olgii (not to be confused with our final destination) and took over a tiny “Tea House” where the support team prepared a very welcome lunch and where we could dry out and regain some warmth. The nearby Olgii Lake (Uvsiin Khar Us Lake on most maps) was our intended destination but the wind drove us to the shelter of a string of rocky outcrops where we found a protected meadow amongst towering granite walls. Fortuitously, the wind and rain dissipated and the sun highlighted the idyllic setting of our new camp site. As had become inevitable whenever we stopped, nomads appeared on motorbikes or horses either out of curiosity or to welcome us to their patch. On this occasion, still relatively early in the afternoon, what soon emerged was an invitation from a nomad family in

the adjacent valley. We were welcomed into their family ger (yurt) with their freshly produced Yak yogurt followed by a long discussion about their lifestyle. That was after a climb to the rocky peaks surrounding the camp. Another exhausting but satisfying day!

The next day started with a ride across the now familiar semi-desert steppe past grazing Bactrian camels and a lone herder with his goats until we reached the “highway” south. More multi intersecting sandy tracks were to be the order of the day.

KHOVD

We camped 30km short of the provincial capital of Khovd where we refuelled the bikes and vans. After a visit to the local market in Khovd, we set up lunch within the remnants of the Manchurian garrison dating back to days when the Chinese Empire regained

lost “possessions” from the Mongols and exerted control over much of the Mongolian Steppes. There’s not much left of it today.

From Khovd we headed further west into Mongolia’s highest mountain range: the Altai Mountains. Despite being assured that the sand had ended, we found that the foothill ridges and plateaus had lots of sandy sections in the early parts. By the time we reached a river flat to camp the night – just short of the climb into the main mountain range – the road had become mostly gravel and firmly packed soil. I remember thinking: mercifully it will stay that way.

THE ALTAI MOUNTAINS

It was now time to head into the Altai Mountains proper. I had been expecting something akin to crossing the Himalayas but without the same altitude. The twisting gravely road

was similar but the pass we crossed was barely discernible. What made it distinctive was the vista of distant snowcovered peaks, the valley plateauing out in front and the road snaking its way across it. That was a unique spectacle for our tour so far.

A couple of decent-sized water crossings added some additional excitement to the day. While sand was minimal, the gravel road base was loose, constantly shifting and heavily corrugated – interspersed with deeply trenched and sharply undulating hardpacked clay or dirt. The two prominent characteristics of the ride were the need for vigilant concentration and unforgiving shuddering. I found the day pretty tough. In contrast to the first half or more of the trip when at the end of every day I was fresh and chirpy, over these later days I was finding that I was absolutely dead-beat. So, it was a great relief to get to the camp site, which a few

5. Nomad family we visited 6. Flip a coin?

of us, having lost sight of the main group at some stage, eventually “found” tucked away behind a promontory into Lake Tolbo. Once again we had a spectacular camp location.

OLGII

Finally, the last ride day dawned. I’d have to confess that I felt somewhat relieved; but careful not to be overconfident until I saw the sun set in this provincial capital of Olgii – our final destination. One of the ‘payments’ for our spectacular camp sites was the sometimes devious and arduous access. The previous night’s site was right up there with side-sloping, river-stoned wheel tracks round a promontory jutting to the lake’s edge. Having retraced that

part next morning, it was then a run across the open steppe to the main road, which had turned to bitumen a few kilometres before we turned off to camp the night before.

It was an easy 50km run into Olgii on a bitumen road. Of course, there was the inevitable “access to camp site” challenge to end the ride. This time our site was just beyond the town by the fast-flowing Khovd River.

I was pleased to have rested the bike at our final camp site feeling that I had accomplished the goal of riding across the wilds of Western Mongolia. But the day was still young. A plan quickly developed to visit some eagle hunters in the neighbouring countryside. That would be an 80-100km round trip. That was a very welcome proposal but as far as I was concerned, my bike wasn’t moving – at least with me on it. So I opted to make the trip with Bagi, one of our drivers, in his van that constantly blared his Barbie Girl music. Good call on my part: the roads out and back were as bad as we had encountered on the tour.

KAZAKH EAGLE HUNTERS

The eagle hunters’ family we met was still in its winter home – a solid wood construction. They would soon move to their summer ger higher in the hills. Their hospitality was overwhelming. First, a table of mixed goodies, followed by a meal of their cooked-up dried mutton. They dry their meat and keep it for several weeks before cooking it as needed.

Far western Mongolia – essentially the province of Bayan-Olgii where we ended our tour – is populated predominantly by Kazakh people who have their own (Kazakh) language and culture. They are Muslims who practise their religion in their own private and unostentatious way. While today’s international borders separate them from Kazakhstan by a thin sliver of Russia, there would have been a time before super power (in this case Russia and China) interests drew borders with scant consideration of ethnic affiliations. One of the lasting Kazakh

Fly, no, no, don’t eat me, fly!

traditions in western Mongolia – now lost even in Kazakhstan – is eagle hunting (the eagles being the hunters NOT the hunted).

It was a very pleasant surprise to discover we were visiting the very family that had featured in recent international coverage of this tradition. The head of the family is Aisholpan who is a renowned eagle hunter with national and international prizes in the skill as well as in falconry. His then 13 year old daughter had featured in a large media spread about the Kazakh eagle hunters of western Mongolia.

The day ended at our camp site with a father and daughter recital of local and some western music. A final farewell to the bikes preceded a flight back to Ulaanbaatar.

This tour was undertaken with Extreme Bike Tours: www.extremebiketours.com 

JUST T WO RULES

1. Don’t Fall Off the Motorcycle. 2. Don’t Get Eaten by a Bear.

Our friend Art Snyder came up with those “rules” years ago and we’ve used them ever since to welcome riders to every guided tour Remember them and you’ll have a great time!

Let GAMCT show you a great way to take a FANTASTIC ride with old friends, make new friends, enjoy the sights, sounds and camaraderie of the journey All while you relax, enjoy the ride and have loads of fun with no worries about the details

Every day, you’ll be on the best motorcycle roads we can find We’ll take you to the famous places you’ve heard of and show

you hidden gems and personal glimpses into Americana that you would likely never discover on your own.

A Guided Tour may not be for everyone, so most of our guided tours - and many others, including custom routes - can be taken as self-guided motorcycle tours or Road Trip auto tours for non-riding friends or family Motorcycles and sports cars (or even something family friendly) can make a great combination

And about the rules - you really don’t need to worry about #2 But if you’re lucky you’ll SEE some bears - we often do!

2016 Guided Tour Schedule

Coast - South

Ride Days / 2,157 km

July San Francisco, CA

August Las Vegas, NV

July

Angeles, CA

August Denver, CO

Coast to Coast USA 21 Ride Days / 7,250 km 9 September Los Angeles, CA 1 October Washington, DC

Route 66 Extended 17 Ride Days / 4,520 km 14 October Chicago, IL 4 November Los Angeles, CA

roads for motorcycling, incredible scenery Meet your new Canadian friends at the Calgary Stampede!

Ride from sea level to 2,000 m elevation Rugged coastline, whales and the tallest trees on earth

Not just Coast! Explore the grandeur of Yosemite, Kings Canyon and Sequoia National Parks too

A “bucket list” event! Yellowstone, Grand Teton and Rocky Mountain National Parks just happen to be along the way

TEN National Parks and the Pacific Coast make this just about the most fantastic trip you can imagine - on a bike! YES

We can’t show you all of it, but you’ll see as much of the USA as possible in three weeks This is a Rider’s dream! YES

Everything that makes Route 66 one of our most popular tours, plus two nights in Las Vegas and one in Death Valley Maybe

Reser ve any 2016 Guided Tour befor e 15 November and get the 2015 Price. Visit our website for complete information and pricing

FLEX, BEND AND TWIST

YOUR FRAME DOES WHAT!? WORDS/PHOTOS MARK MCVEIGH

FLEXIBLE CHASSIS, RIDERS AND MOTOGP ENGINEERS

Behind the scenes, MotoGP Engineers are continually refining and modifying their state of the art twowheeled missiles.

It’s only when you can’t hide those design revisions that the Journos’ tongues start wagging.

Chassis flex, for example, is in the spotlight again because of the updated swingarm clearly visible on Marc Marquez machine recently at Le Mans.

Designed to close the gap on Yamaha with improved tyre edge grip, acceleration, and corner entry, Honda has reduced stiffness and thus increased the flex of the swingarm on the RCV213V.

From the photo above its looks like HRC has simply cut a hole in the right had side of the swingarm to increase flex, but there’s a bit more to it.

How does this one modification improve so many aspects of the bikes

performance? Well, let’s start by explaining some of this engineering terminology.

FLEXIBILITY

Flex is the chassis’ ability to absorb force, bend in different directions and then return to its original position.

Lateral means sideways, so lateral flex is bending to the side, or in the bikes vertical plane - namely when the bike is cornering at extreme lean angles.

Uncontrolled frame flex, whether it be lateral, torsional (twisting) or vertical can be thought of as the bike behaving in an elastic state. It has a clear influence on the bike’s handling, making it feel slow and heavy due to the dynamic geometry changes taking place with trail, wheel alignment, etc.

CHASSIS FLEX

The ideal amount of chassis flex allows an element of lateral flex to absorb the bumps whilst retaining stiffness in

torsion so the wheels are in the same plane and to control braking and acceleration forces in the vertical plane.

Stiffness is the chassis’ resistance to deform under loads generated from cornering, acceleration and braking.

Chassis performance comes down to the combination of overall flex, stiffness and strength of the frame, swingarm, forks, engine mounts, triple clamps and other components working together in harmony without creating chatter.

Chassis material and its thickness, internal ribs and how they are welded together all influence stiffness and flex. If one of those components’ stiffness changes, the overall balance and feel of the bike will change.

COMPLEX ENGINEERING

Motorcycles are notoriously among the most complex machines to engineer. It’s very difficult to change one aspect of the bike independently without affecting other aspects.

– CEO motoDNA

An example of this chassis component interdependence is the recent trend of underslung swingarms in MotoGP and WSB, the bracing having moved from the top to underneath the swingarm. This design is more efficient at reducing lateral tyre contact patch movement when the swingarm twists.

Also worth mentioning is a rule of thumb in any engineering design, which is to change stiffness gradually. Components often fail at the point where there is a sudden change of stiffness.

Ducati famously forgot this rule with their GP11 carbon fibre chassis, which was basically short and stiff sub-frames connected to a very stiff motor.

BEND LIKE A TREE

The chassis should bend like a tree according to Yamaha’s legendary engineer Masao Furusawa.

A longer chassis creates a long lever, which allows flex to be designed more gradually, accurately and effectively.

So just how do MotoGP engineers work out the right amount of strength, stiffness, flex and in what plane or direction? Well, engineers increasingly evaluate huge amounts of data in

MotoGP, which can be measured, quantified and related to the bike’s performance.

However it’s difficult to quantify what the rider feels and it’s this conundrum that ensures race engineering remains a balance between an empirical art and a science.

Subsequently the factories go through a huge amount of research and development to settle on the motorcycle’s overall handling performance.

R&D

Computer aided engineering tools such as Finite Element Analysis are used by engineers to test designs in the virtual space. The whole bike is modeled in 3D CAD, and deflection, stress, vibration, buckling, etc can be tested and validated before making physical parts.

In the end, though, racing is a head game and it really all comes down to what the rider feels.

ADAPTING

Relentless tyre performance gains and the ensuing extreme lean angles ensure that engineers are constantly refining the balance between stiffness and flex

to increase the overall performance of the bike and more importantly give the rider that all important feel. Riders too have to change and adapt; just look at Rossi who has modified his riding style massively to make it more modern and adapt to the new tyres. It’s now Marc Marquez’ turn. The Spaniard is aware that his hallmark rear end corner entry slides are costing him time and he will adapt his riding style; substituting for the time consuming slides, an improved rear floating feeling on turn in courtesy of Honda’s latest flex enhanced swingarm design. 

Author BIO

Mark McVeigh is a former International 250GP Road Racer and MotoGP Engineer who now works as a Moto Journalist and Director of Coaching at the Dorna accredited motoDNA Academy.

MY WAY OR THE HIGHWAY

SYDNEY TO CAIRNS. PART 2

WORDS/PHOTOS COLIN WHELAN

If you feel like switching between routes this is a good place to do it. The road between Nabiac and Gloucester is just on 50km of some enjoyable riding. (Red Route)

From Gloucester, head west on Queen St at the roundabout at the north end of town and continue to the end, right at the T onto Railway St and then left at it’s southern end onto Denison/ Bucketts Way. Head east til you get to Krambach then take the right onto Fire Station Road and follow this til you hit Nabiac.

From Nabiac head west at the Caltex following the signs for Gloucester and then hang a left at Krambach. When you hit the main drag at Gloucester, Roadies Café will be to your left and the Roundabout Pub will be a block north (right).

TAREE

A major hub town with all facilities but

very little aimed specifically at bikers. Fineline Motorcycles (02 6552 2546) on the south end of town should be able to fix any mechanical issues you have. The info office is at the north end. There is a reason the Manning River Tourism website has no images of the downtown precinct.

COOPERNOOK

Nice old pub here serving lunches 7 days from 11.30am til 2pm and dinners on Tuesday to Saturday 6pm til 8pm. Pizzas are available whenever the pub’s open. The boat ramp opposite the pub makes a swim in the river very easy. The town itself has a small general store but not much else.

PORT MACQUARIE

About 3km east of the highway and nice for a break beside the

sea but this is a tourist town with little history, less culture and fewer bargains. Wauchope is about the same distance from the highway but to the west and both the Star and the Hastings hotels will be happier to see you.

KEMPSEY

The new bypass cuts out Kempsey. It also cuts out the Pie Shop at Frederickton. Don’t let it. For some of the best pies on the highway, just turn left at the roundabout at the north of the bypass onto the old highway and head south for just on a kilometre and you’ll see Fredo’s on your right. Col’s Motorcycles in Smith St (02 6562 7089) is the best bike shop in town.

BELLINGEN

This place has one of the best main

www.hemamaps.com.au

Last month we headed north out of Sydney either via the coast or the nearest inland equivalent to Nabiac or Gloucester depending on your choice. Time to press on.

THE HIGHWAY: NABIAC TO BELLINGEN. (ORANGE ROUTE)

This is the real boring bit of the Pacific Highway, and you’re probably only going to use it if you’re doing a real A2B ride. It’s full of roadworks and mundane sections but the straightening of the highway has left any number of small ‘billabong’ towns which, though no longer on the main drag, are doing their best to survive and offer good grub and friendly service.

Head north out from Nabiac on the Pac for the mundane ride up to Taree and cross the Manning River. About 4km after the bridge you’ll see the signs for the left turn for the Other Side Gallery and Café. If it’s been a while since you self-administered caffeine under the gaze of a naked woman or indeed just had the good drink in a beautiful waterside setting, don’t go past this place.

from the Macksville United Servo. Otherwise cross the Nambucca River and follow the highway right and continue for 35km until you get to the slip road left for Bellingen on Waterfall Way and you’re then just 11km from the town.

MY WAY: GLOUCESTER TO EBOR (BLUE ROUTE)

Otherwise just 7km further is the left turn for the Coopernook Pub. Take the left and then follow the road as it bends back to the pub. Once you’re done head north again past where you came in and take the next left onto Macquarie St and the roads will lead you back to the highway.

About 60km north of Nabiac you’ll see a couple of signs for Rosies Café at Johns River. Take the slip road on the left and then take a right at the roundabout and head over the highway before you take a left at the T and Rosies is on your right. To rejoin just retrace to the roundabout and take the slip onto the highway. There’s all fuel at the humungeous BP at the intersection of Oxley and then the next good spot for a break off the highway but with no fuel is Telegraph Point just 16km further north. The roadworks finally come to an end south of Kempsey where the new bypass saves a bundle of time. You now have a roadwork-free zip up to Macksville. If you are nearing the end of your day’s riding, and you’re suffering from twisty deprivation, the Pub With No Beer is 30km west of the highway

TEAR-OUT MAP #32

Head out of Gloucester through the roundabout at the north end of town, past the Shell servo on your left and continue for around 8km. Take the right turn for Nowendoc/ Walcha rather than continue west for Scone.

This is the famed Thunderbolts Way, with its uniformly crap surface. The signs of blackspot fixing and ‘Roads to Recovery 2001’ are surely some kinda sick joke.

Bretti Reserve, about 40km north of Gloucester, is one of the best riverside free camps you will ever come across. 15km further you’ll find Carsons Pioneer Lookout and then it’s on to Walcha. From Walcha head north from the roundabout to the west of the river bridge beside the Royal, towards Uralla. Dangar Lagoon can be a good spot for a break and a bit of bird watching before you follow the bends into Uralla where you meet the dreaded New England Highway. You only have 20km on this before passing the Armidale Airport with its top class Caltex Servo on the western side and then taking a right onto Uralla Rd at the immediate roundabout signposted Armidale.

Follow this as it quickly bends right and morphs into Kentucky St and then bends left over the railway and becomes Dangar St. Follow this north for five blocks and then take the right onto Barney St. You are now on Waterfall Way.

Follow it for 40km out from Armidale and you’ll find a turn north for Wollomombi just 1500 metres from the main road and from here it’s just 40km more to Ebor.

A fully detailed .gpx file of these routes can be downloaded from www.motorbikenation.com

Thanks to my HR Department for their continuing inspiration.

COLLECT THEM ALL

streetscapes in the country. Beautifully maintained old buildings everywhere you look… check out the IGA, it’s almost camouflaged behind lace ironwork. The park down beside the Bellinger River is incredibly relaxing and refreshing. There’s any number of good cafes on the main street, which is the Waterfall Way, but my pick is Hyde on the corner of Church.

WALCHA

One of the best towns for bike riders along this route despite one of the most unfriendly service stations around. Try to last until Uralla if you can. You won’t find the Royal Café and Hotel without a few bikes out front, it’s my pick of places to stay up here. The New England diagonally opposite serves up good meals. If you are

interested in the history of this land, Nat Buchanan, our greatest ever drover, is buried in the town cemetery.

URALLA

I like this place, despite its Café Gusto having the most expensive pies I’ve ever paid for! If you’re done for the day, try the New England Brewing Company on the western side of the main drag just up from the Top Pub. Fuel is at the south end of town, as is the well-staffed Info Office.

ARMIDALE

Caffiends on Marsh St has the best coffee in town. Supermoto on Mann St (02 6772 5988) is a very professional bike shop and are your best bet if your ride goes awry. The servo at the airport at the south end of the town is the best place for fuel.

WOLLOMOMBI

The signs for this place begin 19km out, and it’s one of my fav places to stop. It was once a HUGE town but now only the licensed store/café/post office remains. I would never ride this road without dropping in here. The service is good as is the feed … try the homemade scones! If you can have a post office selling wine in the country, why can’t they do it in Sydney?

EBOR

There’s General Store Fuel at the north end of town if you really need it. It was great news for all riders when Fusspots Café changed hands and is now run by folks who deserve to be in hospitality. The Ebor Falls at south of the town are well signed and worth a visit. 

“Wot’s in a name?” asks CJ Dennis’ Sentimental Bloke in one of the well-known poems. “Struth, I dunno. Billo is just as good as Romeo.”

Well, not quite. A rose by any other name may smell as sweet, but a motorcycle by any old name would not necessarily sell as well. With the revival of some classic motorcycle brands that has become ever more important. But is every old name as good as new again? I’m not sure. Roadmaster is a good example of a badge that carries perfectly good credentials – the last one built by the original Indian company rolled off the line as recently as 1953 – but that is perhaps not well known. I hadn’t heard of it (and I used to own a 1947 Chief) so it was a surprise because it didn’t seem to have any relevance to the “Indianness” of the marque’s names. So is the name wellknown and therefore strong enough to carry a new model?

Fortunately it doesn’t matter. The Roadmaster is exactly what its name suggest. I rode it to the Northern Manoeuvres of the Bear Army, and it mastered the road in every way. As well as mastering the cold (heated grips and heated seats); the wind (an effective fairing and moveable deflectors); the rain (an electric screen with venturi effect when it’s set high); any luggage demands I might have had ( the large, accessible panniers and huge top box); and my wish to be noticed (it isn’t just big, it looks big despite the discreet Indian Red colour scheme).

Not that it is actually much bigger than the other 111 cubic inch (1811cc) Indians. It’s only about an inch longer than the Vintage and the Classic, and its wheelbase is shorter. But it does weigh a substantial 403kg; luckily the seat is low at 673mm. Despite the weight this is not a difficult bike to move around.

The engine starts without any apparent hesitation, and warms up quickly. First gear engages easily, although with a bit of a clunk, and the Roadmaster pulls away smoothly.

Naming Names

One intriguing “wot’s in a name” story is the one about Edward Turner passing the Thunderbird Motel in South Carolina on a trip to the US. He liked the name and used it for a bike. History does not record whether he asked if motel owner minded. Ford was more polite and in 1954 asked Triumph for permission to use the name for a sports car; Royal Enfield in India reportedly didn’t bother when it gave its rather odd-looking cruisers the name.The name also lives on in Triumph’s current range; Billo is obviously not quite as good as Romeo – or Thunderbird.

Changing up to second is not so easy. I have a tendency to change short, and the Roadmaster’s gearbox does not like that, at least in the lower gears. The best thing to do is to wind it out a bit and then change into second; that makes for a smooth change. After that, the gearbox gives you a lot more leeway and it isn’t so critical to be at the right revs. It also improves as the bike warms up.

What can be critical, however, is keeping an eye on the road. The bike has an uncanny tendency to follow lines on the surface, and will be easily displaced sideways by those long ridges that trucks often leave in tarred road surfaces. This can be quite disconcerting, not only the first time but also when you happen to be heading for a coal truck coming the other way! That is, however, just about it as far as complaints from me are concerned. The suspension works well, and copes with all but the most enormous potholes. On the open stretches of road beyond Lithgow I just sat back in the comfortable leather seat, with the heat under my backside turned on low and the radio rocking happily away. Roadmaster? You bet.

I didn’t use the brakes in real anger at any stage – I think the rest of the traffic saw me coming – but when I did slam them on, having nearly missed the turnoff into a favourite café, the ABS came on smoothly and slowed me effectively.

The bike is a competitor for quite a few large, fully equipped touring cruisers. Just to give you an idea of the equipment that’s standard, let me run through a partial list: antilock braking (ABS), cruise control, fuel range with low fuel warning, front and rear tyre pressures, two trip meters with distance and time, clock, air temperature, gear position display, compass, engine oil life percentage (!), battery voltage, instant and average fuel consumption, security system… the list goes on. The bike also has fog lights, a light in the top box and of course the lit Indian head on the front mudguard. The passenger floorboards are adjustable and the stereo puts out 200 Watts from FM, AM, smartphone and Bluetooth input. I’ve mentioned the heated seats; handgrips are heated as well. The top box and panniers have remote locking, and the bike offers keyless starting. I could not imagine anything else that I might want to fit to or carry on the bike (except an air compressor, I guess).

I think your pillion will love this bike for its comfort and reassuring manners on the road – except for that potentially disturbing habit of following lines and humps. You will love it as well if you’re after a big touring cruiser. Wot’s in a name? In the case of the Indian Roadmaster, everything. 

SPECS

INDIAN ROADMASTER

PRICE: $38,995 (ride away & depending on colour)

WARRANTY:Two years, unlimited distance

SERVICING INTERVALS: Every 8000km or 12 months

ENGINE: Air-cooled V-twin cylinder, 4-stroke, OHV, 2 valves per cylinder

BORE x STROKE: 101 x 113mm

DISPLACEMENT: 1811cc (111 cube)

COMPRESSION: 9.5:1

POWER: N/A

TORQUE: 138.9Nm @ 2600rpm

TRANSMISSION: 6-speed, wet multi-plate clutch, belt final drive

SUSPENSION: Front, 46mm telescopic forks, non-adjustable, travel 119mm. Rear, monoshock, adjustable preload, travel 114mm.

DIMENSIONS: Seat height 673mm, weight 403kg (dry), fuel capacity 20.8 litres, wheelbase 1668mm

TYRES: Front, 130/90/B16. Rear, 180/60/B16

FRAME: Cast aluminium

BRAKES: Front, twin 300mm discs with four-piston ABS calipers. Rear, 300mm disc, dual-piston ABS caliper.

FUEL CONSUMPTION: 6.1 litres per 100km, premium unleaded

THEORETICAL RANGE: 340km

COLOURS: Indian Motorcycle Red; Thunder Black; Indian Motorcycle Red / Ivory Cream

VERDICT:THE NAME SAYS IT ALL

MOTO GUZZI V7 II STONE

V FOR VARIABLE WORDS & PHOTOS THE BEAR

There was so much to like about the Moto Guzzi V7, revived a few years ago. There was, indeed, so much to like that one of our contributors bought one and I seriously considered doing the same. This is the I, or me or whatever, who has always liked Moto Guzzis but never bought one because I couldn’t shake my concern about reliability. But I loved riding the first of the new V7s when I had my first chance in Italy, its narrow tyres cutting through the leaf litter on the hill roads behind Mandello and the song of its air cooled – ah! –

engine never failing. Yes, there was much to like about that bike – and now it has been replaced, just like that.

And the new V7, identified with a Roman II and available in three versions, is a better bike again.

Before I go any further, however, I have a confession to make. Two confessions, in fact. As I mentioned above, I’ve always loved Guzzis and that has inevitably affected my reviews. This time, however, there was no need for any prejudice. The V7 II can stand on its own.

As I said, the previous model was fun,

too, but it had a few shortcomings which are only really obvious now that Piaggio, which owns the Moto Guzzi brand, has fixed them.

One of the least obvious but most important changes has been the relocation of the engine. Not by much, and only by way of the front engine mounts. They have been lowered so the engine is now horizontal, which in turn has lowered the seat by half an inch, making it 790mm. Foot pegs have been lowered too. More importantly, the change has increased knee room for the

rider. It also means that the shaft drive and final drive pinion are aligned more directly, which has to improve efficiency. Dry weight is 177kg, and the fuel tank holds a laudable 21 litres.

The engine is still air cooled, but a slick new six speed gearbox has replaced the somewhat clunky five speeder. ABS and traction control are standard, but the suspension is a bit stiff on the Stone that I rode; supposedly it’s better on the Racer with its gas-charged twintube shocks, but the last of the three versions, the Special, apparently shares the Stone’s suspenders.

Suspension aside, the Stone – available in matt black or red - was a pleasure to ride. It is small and neat, and the small lowering of the centre of gravity is quite noticeable. I tend to ride fairly

“THERE ARE NO STEAK KNIVES, BUT SOMETHING ELSE DOES COME WITH THE BIKE”

conservatively (that’s “slowly” in the old money) and while I did sample the ABS a couple of times I didn’t really notice the traction control. Nice bike, capable of hammering around the countryside and commuting and everything in between, one or two up. But…

That isn’t all. There are no steak knives, but something else does come with the bike, and that is a whole bunch (as the Americans would say) of accessory kits to serve various “missions”. These are Dark Rider,

Scrambler, Heritage, Cafè Racer and Record. They’re all fully covered by Moto Guzzi and create what amounts to several completely different bikes –at least in appearance. The kits and individual accessories can be applied to any of the three base models. That, at least theoretically, makes 15 different V7 IIs.

The bike is not particularly fast – as you would expect from the nominal 50 horsepower that the engine produces. But it is a lot of fun, gives you the opportunity to personalise your ride even without looking outside the brand’s own accessories, and never fails to get an approving smile from other riders. What’s not to like? Even the $14,000 ride away price for the standard Stone is pretty good. 

DO IT WHILE YOU CAN

COMPILED BY THE BEAR

Is that Belstaff Man? No, it’s The Bear in his Aerostich suit, looking warm and comfy although perhaps just a touch overweight…

As I write this, there’s a 91 year old bloke up on charges of importing some staggering amount of cocaine to Australia.

The thing that really caught my interest in the story was that he is apparently a bit of an “adventurer”, heading off for months at a time to places like Alaska, Eastern Europe and India. How about we all take a leaf out of his book? Not smuggling cocaine, of course, but doing some adventuring.

One wonderful thing about motorcycling is that you’re never too old (well, within reason), too

busy or too poor to go adventuring. Let’s face it, there is adventure territory within a day of any major city in Australia and it doesn’t cost a heap of money to put together a bike capable of giving you a huge amount of enjoyment.

I’m off adventuring myself; this section is a little shorter than usual because I’m leading the first Bear’s Best of the West tour in the US with Great American Motorcycle Touring. Report follows!

The opening photo (by John Miller) of this article shows me in

A FORTNIGHT IN PARADISE

MotoQuest (motoquest.com) is keen to let you know about the Colombia Valley of the Andes Adventure they’re running from October 10-23 this year.

”This October, an intrepid group of MotoQuestors will join guide Brenden Anders on a two-week journey through Colombia. This all-paved itinerary with some dirt riding options features a ton of great riding through the Colombian countryside, and in some ways resembles a relaxing tropical vacation more than a motorcycle tour. It’s not too late to join them! We have just a couple places left on this trip.

“The lush Colombian countryside makes for a gorgeous backdrop as we weave our way through the northern part of the Andes range. Enjoy the fresh flavors of tropical fruit, and of course drink the freshest Colombian coffee you'll ever have, after you help make it on a tour of the Ocado Organic Coffee Plantation.

“We make an effort to spend each afternoon poolside with a refreshing drink in hand. Our accommodations on this trip are top notch -- 4 or 5 star hotels with pools, wifi, breakfasts, and in some cases laundry service! But when we're not lounging by the pool, we're riding through this beautiful country, absorbing the heritage and culture.”

Oops! Is that the end of the road there?

the South Island (of NZ, naturally) with the bikes we borrowed from South Pacific Motorcycle Tours. They’re a good place to start if you’re considering doing some adventuring across the Tasman; based in Christchurch (www.motorbiketours. co.nz, +64 27 553 1955) they

New Zealand is a wonderful motorcycle destination, but don’t forget Australia either!

SHANGI-LA IS CALLING

“Looking for a motorcycle tour that’s completely different from everything else out there?” asks Reed from Asian Motorcycle adventures (www. asianbiketour.com). “Well, look no further because here it is… How about a ride to Shangri-La?

“A Shangri-La really does exist, way up north in Yunnan Province, China, not far from the Tibet border. And the name really does fit this place perfectly.

“If China has always been a place you wanted to ride a motorcycle through, this is now possible because we are offering two different Shangri-La tours. The first is a 23-day tour that starts and end in Chiang Mai, Thailand, rides up and into the Himalayan plateau, and covers 4,800 + kilometres of everchanging terrain and roads. It is a full-on luxury tour with no amenities spared.

“Our 2nd Shangri-La tour is an 11-day tour for riders whose holiday time is limited. This tour starts and ends in Kunming, China, the capital city of Yunnan Province. Kunming has an international airport so flight connections to here are easy. A latemodel BMW G650 GS will be your ride on this tour.

are right in the middle of what would have to be among the best motorcycling country in the world. They offer rental bikes, self-guided tours and full-on guided tours, and we are very happy to personally recommend them.

Say hello to Carole, Mike and Neil for us and tell them that yes (puts on Arnie Schwarzenegger accent), we’ll be back!

Asian agricultural machinery is economical, but exhaust gases can be a bit much…

“Shangri-La was made famous in James Hilton’s 1933 novel, Lost Horizon. Yes, this town was created in the mind of a novelist, but literary scholars seem to agree that Hilton based the town he called ShangriLa on a real place in Yunnan called Zhongdian by the Chinese and Gyalthang by the Tibetans. Those ever-resourceful Chinese, after becoming aware of this popular book and movie of the same name, officially changed the name of Zhongdian to Shangri-La and this is what has appeared on every map since then. In the interim, ShangriLa has existed in splendid isolation for over eighty years.

“For most of those eighty years travel was banned to this region and only recently have travel restrictions been lifted.”

NOTE TO TOUR OPERATORS:

We are happy to consider submissions from you for these pages, but please note that we need at least one high-quality photo, and that text should be written specifically for our readers. Don’t ask us to draw information from your website; anybody can do that! 

GET READY FOR…

NORWAY!

WORDS & PHOTOS THE BEAR

In our next issue, I will be taking you to the land of the Midnight Sun, motorcycle paradise Norway. Here is a small teaser to get you in the mood. Please don’t take any of this too seriously… Scandinavians in general are pretty good at laughing at themselves, in my experience.

1. Well, if you must…

2. I asked one of the locals about the story that trolls like it if you pile up rocks. “No,” he said vehemently, “they don’t. And there are no trolls, either.”

3. Stone Age motorcycle clothing looks pretty fetching, eh?

4. The Viking heritage is not dead. These days instead of drinking from your enemy’s skull, you use it as an air cleaner.

5. Scandinavians are notoriously self-effacing. A while back a guide in Stockholm told Mrs Bear and me about the Royal Princess’ wedding procession: “People turned out in their hundreds!” he said, and couldn’t understand why we collapsed with laughter.

6. “Why are you taking a photo of my backside?”

9. Um, look, I might just have a Coke… 1 2 3 4 6 5 7 8 9

7. Some people might tell you that the Norwegians, while very nice people, can be a little wooden. Don’t believe it.

8. “Okay, I’ll have a plate of Breiflabb. A small one…”

OYSTERS TO UPHOLSTERERS

A BIT OF EVERYTHING

After crossing the Nullarbor in late October, I celebrated the achievement by gorging on the famous Ceduna oysters. They really are as good as the locals claim. It had been a very enjoyable jaunt and not at all difficult or boring as so many naysayers had warned.

Mo, my trusty postie bike, was going to get the rare treat of riding without luggage for the next few weeks as I was meeting up with a good friend to explore the Eyre Peninsula.

My personal cook, Nerida, arrived in Streaky Bay with my personal escort vehicle,

WORDS & PHOTOS JACQUI KENNEDY

discovered that Mo had seized a ring on his one and only piston.]

I finally pulled into Iron Knob midafternoon and found out that not only does the town not have any other accommodation than the free campsite, it doesn’t have any hot food, no pub, no general store or anywhere to escape the heat. It was still over 30 degrees at 2am.

Detouring into Quorn, I met up with Bob and Sue Tulloch who famously ran the Copley Bakery up in the Flinders Ranges serving the acclaimed Quandong Pie. Quorn is like a step back in time and is often used for location shooting for Aussie outback films, the latest being “Tracks”. That evening we attended a film night at Emily’s Café which resides inside the old Northern Emporium; it still uses the old fashioned wire flying fox to transport money and sales chits around the shop. Back in Adelaide we had a big night out doing a presentation for Torrens Valley Ulysses. Mo’s reputation had preceded him and the room was packed with WIMA and BMW club members along with the usual suspects. I very much enjoy these evenings and look forward to doing many more.

Linda joined me again for another week meandering around the Barossa region, Victor Harbour and the Adelaide

Hills. Christmas was approaching and it was here that I was invited to the first of many Christmas dinners. It is always a delight to be invited into fellow travellers homes and to share their stories and life, if just for a short while. Meeting new people and making new friends is the essence of travel.

Once Mo was back in tip-top condition [thanks Mick] we struck east on our final leg towards Sydney. I chose the longer route along the Murray River and stopped for a break at Swans Reach. I contemplated staying the night but the chorus of corellas was drowning out the traffic and I knew they’d be squawking their heads of at dusk and dawn. (Been there, done that). I free camped on the river bank at Loxton before crossing the border into Mildura. Again I enjoyed the wonderful hospitality of the Ulysses motorcyclists at their Christmas Party weekend camped on the banks of the river at Cowra Station. Mo and I joined in the Toy Run with 200 bikers from the district, filling two trailers with books and toys.

As you head further east along the Murray, you can tell you are getting closer to “civilisation” when the towns start getting closer together; the price of petrol goes down; the price of caravan parks goes up; the traffic increases in volume; the aggressive drivers

increase in number and the drinking water gets better.

Whilst visiting the Catalina museum at Lake Boga, Mo was spotted in the carpark and the local grapevine went into overdrive. Firstly, Mo was invited to go into the hangar to get some publicity shots with the big aeroplane and then the President of the Lions Club invited me to speak at their Christmas party that evening. They have an oldfashioned theatrette in the museum and I entertained the crowd with a slide show of Mo’s exploits around the country. It was one of the nicest spontaneous events to have happened to me whilst on the road.

On the final hop back to the big smoke, we dropped into Goulburn to visit Mick from MJM Upholsterers. 18 months and 31,000km ago he remade Mo’s seat so that my poor backside could cope with long days in the saddle. It is so comfortable, I have never needed an AirHawk or sheepskin. The seat looks as good today as the day he made it!! A real testament to his skill and expertise. I settled in to city life temporarily, whilst planning for my second year on the road and much to Mo’s embarrassment, created another contribution for Naked Tuesday. Seize the Day!

www.postienotes.com.au www.nakedtuesday.me 

LUGGAGE Special Feature

LOAD ME UP

DO WE REALLY NEED THE COFFEE MACHINE, DEAR?

WhenI started travelling by bike (as opposed to going to the pub on Friday night and to a keg thereafter), Army surplus ammunition bags were the crème de la crème of motorcycle luggage, augmented by Army (or Navy) surplus duffle bags if you were going to ride around Australia. We needed little on the road and carried less, and what we did carry was supplied by Stoliar Brothers Army Surplus To The Gentry and tied on with rope or string. Washing line was a favoured security device, and many a laundry was deprived of this timehonoured means of drying clothes. Not that our rough-and-ready solutions to the problem of bike luggage were perfect. More than once, a bag would slip to one side and come into contact with the muffler, causing a small but painful conflagration at the rear of the bike. The opposite could be almost as unpleasant when it rained and the bags became sodden. Help, of course, was not far away.

HARD TIMES

refused to work on Craven fitment to preserve his sanity. At least Ken’s bags generally stayed on the bike once they were fitted. Hands up anyone old enough to remember when BMW riders all had straps around their panniers and racks? There was a reason for that.

I well remember following my mate Michel over a high causeway somewhere near Golhisar in central Turkey. He hit a pothole, and the right-hand Krauser pannier detached itself from his BMW R 100 S, hit the road and then sailed down the embankment to the field below. It came to rest among a small flock of goats, who possibly raised an eyebrow but otherwise ignored this black, rectangular foreign object. From then on, Michel strapped his panniers on, too.

Unless I’m very much mistaken, as Murray Walker would have said, it was Mike Krauser who came up with the first dedicated hard luggage for BMW. And yes, like the sainted Murray, I am very much mistaken because it was actually Ken Craven who had begun to make panniers in 1951 – 20 years before Mike started and well before even I began to ride. I have no doubt that readers will correct me if I am wrong, as inevitably I will be.

Early attempts at designing hard luggage were laudable but not necessarily as effective as they might have been. Craven luggage frames were complicated enough to require a graduate degree in topology to fit; the much-missed BMW mechanic Don Wilson got to the point where he

WHERE TO LOAD?

Today you can buy a huge range of hard and soft luggage with your bike or afterwards, from a multitude of suppliers. Most of this stuff is excellent, although the best of it is not cheap. But when did we ever worry about price when we were buying our bikes a gift, eh?

It’s worth just tipping the hat to Australasia’s luggage innovators.

In Australia, Jack Burger started a revolution with his JAB Gearsack designs, luggage that would fit just about any motorcycle – and without the complications of some previous systems. I’ve seen a Gearsack fitted to an LC250 Yamaha. A little later, Andy ‘Strapz’ White came up with the priceless Andy Strapz which superseded bungees and made loading a bike much easier and safer. Andy is still creating innovative ways of loading bikes. Meanwhile, in New Zealand, Dold Industries continues to make the outstanding Ventura bike luggage systems (distributed in Aus by Kenma).

Back to my misspent youth again for a moment. Triumphs were popular when we headed out of town to hold an alfresco keg. The reason was the little luggage rack that some of them had fitted to the top of their fuel tanks. If you were brave and stupid enough, you could balance a keg there, holding it in place with your elbows, while carrying the gas, ice and dispensing equipment in the (usually leather) panniers. A one-man, one-bike high speed moveable bar was the result. I will leave it to your imagination what this made possible. The rack on the tank was not the only luggage solution that’s been abandoned. For quite a while, BMW boxer riders had the option of getting a set of pot racks made. These were small but strong racks sitting just above the bike’s cylinders, and often used to carry oil, fuel or even tools. And that brings us to the question posed above. Where do you load?

Pot racks were good for heavy things because they were low on the bike and, if you loaded them appropriately, balanced. Mass centralisation before it was popular – or even named.

It’s pretty obvious where the best place is for a load on your bike. In line with the centreline of the bike, between the axles – in other words on the tank or on the seat behind you. That’s where the heavy stuff should go. After that, sling it out the side in panniers, in front of or level with the rear axle. Finally, on the rack above the rear wheel. Avoid attaching anything to the forks, above or around the steering head, and don’t load up the back of the bike too much behind the rear axle. You will see many suggestions in this survey of currently available luggage. Happy hunting for your very own selection! PT

LUGGAGE Special Feature

ANDY STRAPZ

www.andystrapz.com Ph: 03 9770 2207

Traveller Pannierz - $325

Designed to fit any bike with side covers/ panels or fenders they are backed with a special adjustable, sticky, memory foam

pad. This pad will reduce the scuffing of bodywork. Traveller Pannierz feature a slash cut bottom to accommodate high rise pipes.

Avduro Pannierz - $425

After 5 years of listening, two years of trialling and testing; Avduro Pannierz are ready for release. While the architecture

of the Pannierz hasn’t changed, the way they secure to the support frames has. There are four added elements to achieve this, making them ultra-tough.

AA & A Bagz - $180-$220

One of Australia’s favourite bike bags, just drop it on the passenger seat and tie it down with its own strap system. No frames or hardware needed. Simple, yet effective and low profile.

VENTURA

www.kenma.com.au Ph: 02 9484 0777

Touring kits and top boxes – From $99 - $459

Everyone knows the top quality kit being made by stalwarts, Ventura. You can get all sorts of “soft” luggage to fit their rack systems, to their latest “medium” soft luggage, or choose from their hard case Astro top box. Available in all sorts of sizes and rack systems to fit over 2000

motorcycles, there’s a good bet you can style up your luggage carrying with a Ventura product. We’ve used them for years and loved them. The latest systems available are for the Yamaha MT-09 Tracer and R3 and the BMW R 1200 R and RnineT.

KURYAKYN

www.rolliespseedshop.com Ph: 07 3252 5381

XKürsion XW5.5 roller bag - $349.99 US

The all-new XKürsion XW5.5 Roller Bag is the largest option available within the XKürsion luggage line-up. The removable interior divider provides the option of one large packing

space or individual upper and lower compartments with separate access points. Thermoformed side compartments provide room for additional cargo and also include side-mounted pockets to

keep smaller items easily accessible. Interior padded electronics pockets in multiple sizes can hold a variety of devices, including cell phones, tablets and laptops up to 17”. When you reach your destination, the sturdy, retractable handle and smooth rolling wheels offer easy transport off the bike. Like all XKürsion bags, the XW5.5 is constructed with premium UV-rated, weatherresistant 1200 denier Maxtura material. The custom thermoformed construction with integrated internal support structures ensure durability and shape retention, regardless of the payload.

OXFORD LUGGAGE

www.ficeda.com.au Ph: 02 9757 0061

QR tank bag - $199.95 –Tank ring - $29.95

This quick release tank bag system clips into the inconspicuous tank ring keeping

the bag away from paintwork. A very user friendly bag to have.

X40 tail pack - $179.95

The most sophisticated seat bag ever designed, the X40 Tail pack has even more useful features with a new, unique design for a totally exclusive look and as

the name suggests, it has 40 litres capacity.

Tank ‘n’ Tailer Tankbag & Tailpack in one - $99.95

Tank bag and tail pack in one without the need for a base conversion kit! Comes in an 18 litre capacity with 5 colour

swatches included with every first time bag. Simply slide the swatch into the side panel.

Expedition Pannierz have had a makeover for their tenth birthday.

While the architecture of the Pannierz hasn’t changed, the way they secure to the support frames has. There are four added elements to achieve this. Take a closer look online.

GIVI

www.ronangel.com.au Ph: 03 9464 3366

Givi make premium products and you’ll see many of their products labelled as manufacturers accessories, but Givi has a lot of their range available for just about all bikes past and present.

3D604 - $159 Tank flange - $22+

Mounts with Givi’s tanklock system, flanges are available to suit most modern bikes and the bag features a detachable

iPad mini / map holder, phone holder with touch screen window, moulded semi-rigid construction with textured finish, zipper extension, rain cover and shoulder strap.

facebook.com/andy.strapz

XS308 Adventure bag - $199

Mounts to Givi’s tanklock system and has

similar features to the 3D604, expect for adventure riders there is a tool bag and larger map holder.

Outback case range – From $549

Comprising of panniers and/or topbox, fitting kits available for most popular

Headliners, Balaclava, Nekz
Merino Wool Thermalz – Topz and Pantz
Jetboil
Bahco tools

adventure bikes. Made from extremely strong full alloy construction and available in polished alloy or black finishes. Many accessories are also available (backrest, internal soft bags, external soft bags, jerry can holders, elastic nets).

Trekker case range – From $489

Fitting kits available for most popular adventure bikes and made from a super durable casing with alloy lid panels. Panniers have special split lid for the

option of half open or full opening settings. Many accessories are available (backrest, internal soft bags, external soft bags, jerry can holders, elastic nets) and the panniers and topbox are available in polished alloy or black finishes.

V56N - $549 - $599

56 litre topbox available with an alloy lid

panel, or carbon look panel. Fitting kits available for most popular bikes.

B33NMK - $269

Handy 33 litre capacity topbox with fitting kits available for most popular bikes.

E300N - $129

30 litre capacity which comes with a universal mounting plate with kits

available for most popular bikes.

Waterproof range –

From $89 - $149

Available in 30L, 40L and 80L and made from extremely durable Thermoplastic

Polyurethane. All seams are electro welded to achieve 100% waterproofing. Comes with carry handles, shoulder strap, and tie down points.

MUSTANG SEATS

www.mustangseats.com

Covered hard trunks

Whether you call them a “top case” like the Europeans or “trunks” as the Americans do, Mustang’s stylish hard cases are made from high quality fiberglass and perfectly match

most Mustang seats. These “trunks” measure 22W” x 18”L x 13H” and can accommodate two full-face helmets.

Universal saddlebag sets

Convert your bike to a bagger by adding a set of Mustang’s universal hard saddlebags. These flat-backed bags with recessed front corners for axle clearance are made of reinforced fiberglass and covered with high quality expanded vinyl. Bags and lids feature a rubber seal to help make them water resistant. The inside is lined with a durable felt material that is easy on the contents as well as

the knuckles. Saddlebags come undrilled for a universal fit that will clear most exhaust systems (mounting hardware is not included).

BAGSTER

www.ctaaustralia.com.au

Ph: 02 9820 4444

Stunt PVC tank bag - $209

The Bagster Stunt tank bag has an expandable gusset in order to fit a helmet in. There are smaller outer storage pockets for keeping smaller items close at hand, a tidy pocket for wallet, glasses and a rain cover is included to keep the bag as dry as possible. The

bag has 4 attaching clips that fit on any Bagster tank cover. The bag can also be transformed into a backpack so it’s easy to carry your items off the bike as well.

Starlight LED backpack - $279

The new Starlight backpack is a

LUGGAGE Special Feature

specialised motorcycle backpack that features an innovative additional LED brake light (wirelessly connected) built into the backpack itself. This major innovation increases the rider’s safety by providing additional indicators that the brake light is activated to the following vehicle.

As a backpack, the Starlight is also very practical and stylish. It is top of the range quality and features a thermocompressed hood, comfortable reflective backpack straps, back with foam contacts and a built in rain cover.

Everglade waterproof seat bag/tank bag - $99.95 - $119.95

New and innovative, a transport bag of 20 or 30 litres capacity, 100% waterproof for the greatest of adventures. Flexible, resistant and 100 % tight, the ideal accessory as a saddle bag behind a

motorcycle, as luggage in front or behind a quad, or simply as a sport bagconvertible backpack.

TOURATECH

www.touratech.com.au Ph: 03 5729 5529

Zega Pro2 pannier system –From $2063

A rugged aluminium pannier system that joins form and function in a harmonious unit, combining the advantages of Touratech’s popular special systems with the innovative characteristics of Zega

Pro2 panniers – this is the new Zega Pro2 special system for the BMW R 1200 GS/GSA.

Ortlieb “Adventure” Rack-Pack saddle bag - $160

The absolutely waterproof, dustproof,

mudproof, snowproof and sandproof packsack by Ortlieb is a strong bag that has a large transverse roll closure that enables you to see all the equipment clearly. It is the ideal (and essential) travel companion - and not only on motorcycle tours!

Universal tank rucksack - $314.50

Touratech’s universal tank rucksack for most motorcycles offers easy mounting, plenty of space and highest quality for extreme exposure!

Mounting at the front end is via a steering head strap and at the rear end via a sideways looped strap with rotating quick-release catches.

Manufactured from superior Cordura, fitted with a removable DIN A4 sized map pouch and an extension option via a circumferential zip, it is the ideal companion for a number of uses.

DRIRIDER

www.dririder.com.au : McLeod

Accessories: Ph: 1300 300 191

Streamline backpack - $119.95

28 litre capacity, made from a 600D

Ripstop construction with reinforced sides for shape retention, chest and waist straps for support, large main

compartment with small storage pocket, rear laptop pocket, large side pockets with storage pockets and key holder, rain cover with strap and reflective strip for night safety.

Navigator tank bag - $159.95

15 litre capacity made from a 1680D construction and features a transparent holder for GPS unit, and the compartment can be raised for viewing. There is a large main compartment, front

and side pockets, rain cover, shoulder straps and waist strap, four suction cups for secure holding and optional magnetic pads available. Non-slip anti scratch base and reflective strip for night safety.

Explorer tail pack - $184.95

600D Ripstop construction with a large expandable main compartment, side pockets, cover for loading extra gear like a sleeping roll, rain cover, shoulder strap, multiple attachment straps and the bag

DriRide: A revolution in rider comfort. Stay

Your riding gear is designed to allow moisture to escape your body, but it can’t do its job in the most important area unless you have a seat that breathes.

1. Touratech Vapor-Flow™

The technology allows your body’s moisture to pass through your riding gear, down through the seat fabric and into the breathable membrane. The moisture then escapes through the sides of the seat, leaving you dry and comfortable.

2. Rain-Block™

Although the seat is breathable (allowing moisture vapor to pass through the fabric) the tight structure of the Rain-Block™ fabric forces water droplets to bead up and roll off the seat. It’s completely waterproof.

3. Ergo-Response™

Ergo-Response™ technology keeps you on top of the saddle, not sunken down into it. The foam core is sculpted in a way that ensures there’s no pressure on the coccyx (tail-bone) and your weight is supported evenly. The longer you ride, the better if feels.

» Anatomically shaped contours

» Available in different heights

» No modifications to bike necessary

» Special contour prevents sliding during acceleration and braking

» Complete and ready for fitting

» Optimal positioning of sealed seams

» Optimised foam core gives high stability

» Groove for relief of coccyx

» Bi-elastic cover material 100% waterproof

» Sealed seams

» Robust and extremely durable

l Over 200 seats for more than 40 types of motorcycles

LUGGAGE Special Feature

includes PE boards for shape retention and reflective strip for night safety.

TRAVEL MASTER

www.cassons.com.au

Route 66 Deluxe roll bag - $139.95

37 litre expanded capacity with zippered ends, large front opening, expandable

side pockets, semi-rigid construction and the bag comes with a shoulder strap, rain cover and two adjustable straps.

Route 66 Throw over saddlebags - $199.95

51 litre expanded capacity, which can be mounted under or over pillion seat, adjustable to fit almost any motorcycle, with no mounting brackets or supports needed. Features include

expandable drink holders, external and internal pockets, expandable main luggage compartment and a semi-rigid construction.

Adventurer with roll bag - $219.95 Made from super heavy duty ballistic

nylon construction with zip out back pack straps, roll bag is removable and is secured with adjustable straps, all lids and compartments seal with heavy duty

zips, bag attaches universally to any sissy bar and sits on either luggage rack or rear seat. Comes with rain cover included.

Tool bag - $29.95

Classic chrome buckle design, yet opens and closes easily with simple clip system, can be mounted on lower triple tree, handlebars or fork tubes (above lower

provided. Made from tough, durable synthetic leather.

Saddle bags box lid - $139.95

Classic chrome buckle design, yet opens and closes easily with simple lockable clip system, stylish riveted and leather

stitched edge on lids of saddlebags, made from tough, durable synthetic leather,

adjustable width for different size fenders and the bags are designed to go either under or over the seat.

RJAYS

www.rjays.com.au

Day magnetic tank bag - $59.95

Small tank bag with enough room for wallet, keys, phone and sunglasses, it

has 2 zippered side pockets, 1 zippered map pocket, rain cover, non-slip rubber base and 2 super long strong magnets in base.

Adventurer sportbike seat bag$79.95

A great all-round seat bag made from super heavy duty ballistic nylon and

features a pull out rain cover, carry handle, padded shoulder carry strap, reflective inserts and an expandable top.

Metro backpack - $39.95

Be prepared for what the city has to

throw at you. The Metro backpack makes your everyday commute easy with its many features and its unbuilt versatility.

Touring saddlebags - $79.95

Made from super heavy duty ballistic nylon and featuring adjustable heavy duty Velcro retaining straps, dual buckles

on each saddlebag to ensure your luggage stays put and a large Velcro weatherproof seal with two retaining clips to keep your luggage dry.

Super top box - $119.95

39 litre capacity and features large reflective panels, lockable to base plate and super top box lockable separately,

made from heavy duty ABS plastic, with a super heavy duty reinforced steel base plate and comes with a built in back rest.

Super Sport II panniers - $149.95

These soft throw over panniers are designed to fit any sports/sports touring bike for the trip away or everyday commuting. Easy “throw over” design and Velcro straps to attach it to your bike. The ‘grab it and go’ handle makes it easy to carry. Both main compartments are

expandable and large enough to hold the biggest load.

HELD

www.heldaustralia.com.au

Ph: 02 9719 8890

Waterproof Carry Bag - $65 - $95

Available in either 30 litre or 60 litre, this carry bag is made from PVC coating

(100% Tarpaulin) and features a water and dust-proof adjustable roll-fastener, carry handle, detachable shoulder straps, welded seams and reflective print.

City bag - $95

Made from PVC coating with welded seams and featuring 1 outside pocket

(not waterproof), carry handle, second main compartment with laptop pocket and organiser pockets, waist belt and 3M Scotchlite reflective inserts.

Roll bag - $60 - $90

Available in 60 or 90 litre capacity this

handy roll bag features a water and dustproof adjustable roll-fastener, reflective

print, welded seams and made from PVC coating (100% Tarpaulin).

BMW MOTORRAD

see your local dealer or www.bmwmotorrad.com.au

Function backpack - $200

High-quality, functional motorcycle

backpack packed full of features. Made from heavy-duty upper material of tarp (polyester with TPU-coating) and nylon and a 25 expandable to 30 litre capacity. The main compartment is also waterproof thanks to an inner bag with roll closure and taped seams.

Giant bag - $350

The perfect luggage for travelling to your motorcycling holiday, specially designed to the travelling needs of motorcyclists. Plenty of space for all the rider’s equipment

essentials such as helmet, suit, boots, gloves, etc. Practical compartments inside make it easy to pack all your gear. Bottom compartment can be used in a number of ways: The helmet-compartment separator is held in place on one side by 2 buckles; it can be folded flat when not needed. Easy to use with castors, telescopic handle and carrying handles, and also weighs very little when empty.

www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au

Luggage roll - $230

A waterproof bag which can be carried on most motorcycles, weatherproof and hard-wearing comes supplied with 12

retaining straps in 3 different lengths, so there are many ways in which it can be securely attached to the motorcycle.

Softbag 3 small & large - $250 - $300

The all new designed bags are made with a polyester fabric which has excellent ripstop properties and the base being

made from forming EVA (ethylene-vinyl acetate) with an anti-slip coating. The waterproof main compartment and water-repellent outside pockets will keep everything dry and ready for use, easily accessed by the large open on the top of the bag.

SUZUKI

see your local dealer or www.suzukimotorcycles.com.au

Dry roll bag - $116.50

This stylish 35 litre black dry roll bag features a red and silver

Suzuki logo on the side, and is made from welded tarpaulin, with reflective details with an additional shoulder belt included.

Dry hip bag - $53.50

The Dry Hip Bag is waterproof and is made of welded tarpaulin and features reflective details and an adjustable waist

belt. The capacity is 2.5 litres.

Top case - $930

Top case ideal for carrying luggage with

35 litres volume. Top case adapter plate required for mounting is included.

Side case set - $1190

Side case set with 26 litres volume on right hand side and 29 litres volume on left hand side. Upper and Lower Side

case brackets required for fitment are included. Fits the V-Strom 1000.

TRIUMPH

see your local dealer or www.triumphmotorcycles.com.au

Triumph Motorcycles offer many genuine accessory luggage options for your Triumph. Ask your local dealer for the full list, but the following panniers for the popular Tiger 800 show the quality on offer.

Expedition aluminium panniers$1295, mounting kit - $455.20

These water resistant panniers are made from a 1.5mm thick single skin aluminium structure, with the enhanced protection of polymer corner reinforcements. Features Triumph branded base and latch, top opening with detachable lid and each pannier has a capacity of 37 litres.

Added security comes via the “one key” locking mechanism, using the bike’s ignition key.

HARLEY-DAVIDSON

see your local dealer or www.harley-davidson.com/AU Luggage system - $402.53

This is a two-bag system with a large touring bag and a smaller

day bag. Provides loads of space for all types of touring.

Overnight bag - $201.23

This bag is ideal for the shorter trip or overnighter for a single rider. Fits either

the Tour-Pak luggage rack or the sissy bar upright.

Rolling touring bag - $348.85

H-D’s largest bag, at 50 litres you can fit loads of gear for the long haul.

BM MOTORCYCLES

www.bmmotorcycles.com.au

Ph: 03 9870 3807

BM Motorcycles in Ringwood, Victoria specialise in long trip preparation including bike and gear. They are also Touratech luggage dealers and a specialist BMW workshop. We have heard nothing but excellent feedback about Chris and the guys in the workshop. We

highly recommend you give them a call or drop in to see them to discuss your luggage requirements!  www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au

WORDS/PHOTOS COLIN WHELAN

RATED 3 OUT OF 5 HELMETS

’m in the bar at the Coolamon Hotel on the northern rim of the Riverina, having my favorite drink of the day… the fi rst one after six o’clock. This is the time when most pubs do a bit of

a morph, when their restaurants open for ‘tea’, when the after-work drinkers make way for family groups and when kitchen scents take over from sweat and diesel odors.

Danny the owner is working the bar and between serving he tells me he’s been here fi ve years after stints at pubs in nearby towns of Berrigan, Grong Grong and Walla Walla. (I

check that he’s not stuttering). This place is a work in progress but it’s progressing well with one of the main projects a massive new fi replace out in the back area which is also going to be refl oored and should become a really nice place for a larger group of riders to hang. It’s beginning to get busy so I leave him to look after a mix of locals and

“THE COOLO PUB WAS SHINING LIKE A BEACON, SEEMING MORE TO RADIATE ITS OWN LIGHT THAN MERELY THE FALLING SUN”

contractors and other visitors, and retire to a corner with my chardy.

It was my dad who taught me to savor that first drink after 18.00 because until he was in his mid 40’s it was a pleasure forbidden him.

Dad had been a POW, and when he came home in ‘45 he returned to a country still shackled by a hangover of temperance measures enacted way back in 1916.

While the Anzacs were overseas fighting for the freedom of the people of Australia, other people were busy back home fighting against the freedom of my father. Christian temperance groups, led mainly by Protestant bigots had succeeded in limiting the output of breweries and restricting the hours of hotels. (The spiritual descendants of these religious bigots are today campaigning against marriage equality and abortion clinics).

The restrictions were ‘war measures’ and yet once peace was reached the temperance unions didn’t match the silence of the guns. These wowser measures remained in place between the two World Wars and when diggers like my dad and his mates returned in 1945, the pubs still shut at eighteen hundred.

This was the era of the ‘six o’clock swill’. Workers would race from the factories and offices at knock-off to lay siege to pubs in a frenzied porcine rabble, drinking their fill before the publican uttered the fateful words of, “Time Please Gentlemen”.

Six o’clock closing was a farce. It caused the pubs to be open when men were working, but closed when they were thirsty. In a chapter entitled, “The Great Pub Massacre” in his book, “Victorian Country Pubs”, John Larkin wrote that this early closing forced men to stand, “ankle deep at 5.50pm in a morass of cigarette butts decomposing in slopped grog, a howling thirsty mass crawling over each other to demand fifteen beers each to drink in the last desperate guzzling minutes.”

In NSW it took a Royal Commission which featured a smart young lawyer named E.G.Whitlam, to finally end

the madness in 1955. On the way it faced such wonderful testimony as from the Rev C.H. Tomlinson who argued that, “so called moderate drinking cause(s) divorce and impair(s) the national character… later trading will incur more and more immoderate drinkers…and will introduce women more and more into drinking.” Wonderful stuff!

Victoria dragged the drinking chain and continued with the swill until 1966. A year later South Australia, whose capital is still a great place for a church crawl, also moved to allow working men and increasingly women a relaxed post work cold one.

So anyway that stuff was on my mind as I sat back and watched some blokes playing darts, a brace of others at the pool table and realised once again how lucky we all are.

Coolamon’s surrounded by some good rural back roads riding. You’re not going to be bending it over too much but if cruising deserted sealed roads through changing interesting country is your thing, you can do a lot worse than this part of our land.

I’d lobbed late, much closer to ‘roo time’ than I like to be, and I wasn’t happy, Jan!

I’d come down come through Barmedman, a fly speck town south of West Wyalong. It’s got two grand hotels, the Queensland Hotel (dunno… don’t ask me!) and the Barmedman, one of the most beautiful pubs I’ve ever seen.

Sorry, make that ‘had two pubs’.

The Queensland Hotel closed last year and damn it, the Barmy has just shut its doors too. (When I later ring up the Bland Shire Council, Jeff there confirms the bad news and adds that the only pub at nearby Ariah Park has also closed down. Damn and double Damn!)

Two more towns without pubs and I guess out there somewhere some religious fanatics are smiling. Well bugger ‘em! The mines and the drought may well be doing what the Temperence Tyrants couldn’t but at least the pubs that are open, are welcoming belated visitors well into the night.

As I got to the rail crossing at the bottom of Coolamon’s gorgeous Cowabbie St, the Coolo Pub was shining like a beacon, seeming more to radiate its own light than merely refl ect the falling sun. Here is a pub that was both beautiful and open for business!

Now I know it’s kinda out of sequence but I’m going to start with the food coz the smells of good cooking hit me when I walked in and the food here is one of the great drawcards. Kirti Kumah Patel has been running the kitchen for a bit over three years and the stuff he turns out brings destination diners regularly from bigger neighbors like Wagga, Narranderra and Junee. Stuff like superb poached pork belly, or a salad of soft shelled crab and my choice: a pasta with prawn, chorizo and spinach.

On this Tuesday evening there’s around 50 folks bogging into this sort of food in the comfortable separate dining room. Family groups, couples, locals, visitors, all eating well, all relaxed and all raving about the tucker. Real ‘if you serve it they will come’ type stuff and it’s open 7 days for lunch, noon til two and dinner from (you guessed it) six til nine.

In the bar there’s TAB, Keno and a few pokies, all on the edge, discreet and not overpowering. Out back there’s a garage if you want to leave your ride under cover.

I check into one of just six rooms upstairs. With a total of just ten beds (six singles and 4 doubles) you’re not going to fi t a huge group ride in here, but at 35 bucks a head and with all rooms fully screened and with oil heaters and pedestal fans, those who do are going to be economically housed in comfort. The bathrooms are in an okay state and the hot water seems endless and comes out at good pressure. There’s no common room and not even a jug to boil water which I reckon is a real minus, but Danny argues that it’s a conscious attempt to share the benefi t of visitors with the rest of the town. Hopefully I’ve

ULTRA COMPACT POCKET PUMP

Cl ing Fast

If you are interested in the story of 6 o’clock closing, there is a vast amount available online. For links to some of it, including contemporary ABC television coverage of the final night, please see this review online at www.motorbikenation.com and go to the pub reviews section.

» Weighs only 570g

» Inflate a low or flat tyre quickly and safely

» Ideal for use on motorcycles, ATV’s and scooters

convinced him of the need for at least just a jug so folks who carry their own makings, can have a morning brew in bed.

So next morning I head off up the beautiful main street past the memorial to the Bali bombings in which a local fella plus others from Wagga Wagga and Leeton perished. Barty’s Cafe is doing a roaring trade with a group of blokes having the weekly meeting of the CFS over decent coffees and billy teas.

RINCLUDES EPAIR PLUGS4

TUBELESS TYRE REPAIR

Local knowledge must’ve steered them to the pies and snag rolls rather than the raisin toast which I ordered and got three pan fried slices of wafer thin bread, two of which were loaf ends. But it was too nice a morning to send the stuff back. And besides all the other grub looked just fi ne.

» M ade in the USA from billet 6061 aluminium

» Lightweight. No reaming. No glue.

» Store spare plugs in the end cap

MINI JUMP STARTER

Don’t let yourself be stranded with a flat battery!

This little lithium jump starter is pocket-sized, light, packs a real punch and will easily tuck into a tank bag, top box or pannier.

Our mini jump starter comes with a recharging plug suitable for both BMW (merit) sockets and normal car type accessory sockets. Comes in a compact bag with all accessories including USB port and cable so you can recharge your phone, ipad or GPS.

Back at the pub Danny’s preparing for another day. We sit for a while and jaw about the pub and the town and their symbiotic relationship. He’s acutely aware of the role of country town pubs and wants the Coolo to be even more a social centre, a place where blokes and women on their own, families with kids, locals and visitors can all relax into a community. In short, he’s growing the kind of pub my dad (and mum) never knew and the Coolamon Pub is well on the way to bearing the fruits of his labours.

It’s a cruisey pub in cruising country. You’ll be thankful for the welcome and the food, and for the freedom to enjoy it all at your speed in a way your parents never did.

The Coolamon Hotel was at the top of the 3 helmet band on our MF scale and came in at over 170 on our value scale where 100 is the benchmark.

On our all new Unique Character Scale I put it at 5/10.

Our Schooner of Full index was $5.00.

The Coolamon Hotel, Wade St, Coolamon T: 02 6927 3028 (Ask for Danny)

Full Disclosure: I neither sought nor was offered any discount or freebee. This did not affect the review or rating of the pub. 

THE TOOLS HAVE BEEN RATTLING

AND HANDS GETTING DIRTY, THIS MONTH

DUCATI SCRAMBLER

PLUNDERING DUCATI’S CATTLEDOG

Isometimes wonder if the success of a particular model isn’t partly due to the size of its accessory catalogue. If you can buy things for it you’re more likely to buy it appears to be the rule. Think about it –how many bikes with a substantial range of accessories has ever been a failure in the showroom? All right, all right, I’m sure there are some, but the opportunity to create your own unique bike does loosen wallets.

And why not? After all, quite apart from getting a bike that’s your very own, it also suggests that the manufacturer is going to give the bike some serious support.

Ducati’s Scrambler is the perfect case in point. There is a nice basket of

accessories, and Ducati has made it clear that the model will not only enjoy further support, but will actually be the beginning of a new ‘brand’ for the company. That suggests all sorts of different models in the pipeline, and a lot of excitement at the spares counter. Which would be enough reason for us to select a Scrambler as a long term test bike. But as it happens there is another reason. Well, two. Firstly, I have unashamedly fallen for the bike. I wanted a Scrambler for myself, and there will be some heavy negotiating over a price when it’s due to go back to Ducati Australia. Secondly, the bike is not just the beginning of something new for Ducati. In my humble opinion it also demonstrates one of the directions that motorcycle design will be taking. Don’t be surprised if we see a lot more of these kinds of bikes: relatively small,

reasonably powerful, naked, offering history but little legacy and just plain fun without committing the rider to constant high speed manoeuvres.

We’re seeing various interpretations of this style already, with the MT-07 from Yamaha, Honda’s half litre triplets, and Harley’s Streets.

Our long term Scrambler has seen its share of use now in standard trim, and it was time to get into Ducati’s cattledog of accessories. It’s good to be able to raid the other models’ accessories as well as our Icon’s. In no particular order, this is what we picked.

SOFT SIDE BAGS INC FRAMES (from the Café Racer range)

$517.84

Ducati has solved the potential problem of having one side bag too close to the heat of the exhaust by simply making

problem with that – most bike luggage is too big as far as I’m concerned. I’ve been using the bags for shopping, and in combination with the tank bag they are quite big enough. Then again, I don’t buy a dozen two litre bottles of Coke at a time, like some people do… For family shopping you will need something bigger.

All in all I like the bags a lot, and would be happy to use them (once again with the tank bag) for a weekend away.

SEALED MAGNETIC TANK BAG

(from the Urban Enduro range)

$297.90

it shorter. Looks a little odd at first but then becomes quite endearing. The bags have roll tops which make them really rainproof, and both have a simple rectangular shape with makes them easy to load. They’re also strongly made and attach conveniently. What they aren’t is big, but I don’t have a www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au

On the subject of the tank bag, I am not usually in favour of magnetic ones because they can put minuscule scratches into your paintwork. The bike’s paintwork, that is. This one is relatively good because there are only four magnets and they are at the extreme corners of the bag, where they will move less than they would if they were in the middle.

The bag has the same kind of roll top – except that it’s a roll rear – as the side bags, and it also works well. A small zippered pocket on top of the bag has a water-resistant zipper, which however seems to go in the wrong direction: it ends at the rear, where water could be expected to collect. To be fair it didn’t leak in my test.

Like the soft bags, the tank bag is relatively small but that’s a good thing with a magnetic bag, it stops it from moving around when you’re on the road. It looks best when it has something in it; when it’s empty it’s kind of flat.

1. The styling of the bag has been designed carefully.

2. It might be short, but it looks tops!

3. Should that zip end at the front of the bag?

4. Handlebar bag is spacious and convenient.

$97.97

5. It is hard not to like the grille, a real Scambler item.

HANDLEBAR BAG

Ducati Australia and I seem to disagree which way round this should be mounted. When it faces forward (which is how it was mounted when I got it), it obscures the instruments and even the speedo. Facing backwards, which is the way I subsequently mounted it, it obscures nothing and looks good –although the Scrambler logo is then on its back.

The bag is big enough for the Scrambler tool kit and a small tyre repair kit, which is what I intend to use it for. It will also hold a Helmet Lok, a gadget that I take everywhere I go.

6. The panel lower tidies up the look of the bike from the front. 1 2 3 4 5 6

HEADLIGHT GRILLE (AND FRAME)

$ 117.96 ($149.95)

I love this, and I’m happy to tell anyone who wonders why about broken headlights I’ve had. One was caused by the branch of a tree! But to be honest I also like the rather raffish air it gives the bike – like saying hey, we’re serious here…

Grille and mounting kit are solidly made and look as if they’d last forever; I

know you could get a plastic headlight guard for a lot less money, but it wouldn’t look right. I reckon one of these grilles belongs on any of the four models.

INSTRUMENT PANEL LOWER

$197.93

This is a minor improvement in the look of the Scrambler, but I think it is nevertheless worthwhile. It hides the base of the speedo with a metal cover which is reminiscent of either R2-D2 or the detailing work on the rest of the

bike, whichever turns you on. It kind of completes the look of the bike, I guess.

CARBON SHORT FRONT MUDGUARD

$337.89

This is a smart-looking replacement guard with a swoopy shape and the inevitable quality look of carbon fibre. It’s also black, which suits the bike well. Having said that, it is shorter than the standard, painted front mudguard and I will probably go back to the original. It does look spiffy, though!

BLACK TANK COVER SET

$297.90

There is quite a range of tank covers – that is, the side plates which carry the logo. They each present a slightly different look, and choosing between them is a major job! It would probably not have occurred to me to choose the

7. Carbon fibre always looks good, right?
8. Black or a metal finish? I’ll go for black.

black panels until they were suggested, but now I am really happy with them and will probably keep them.

ICON TANK DECAL SET

$77.98

Of course you need the right decals for the tank of your Scrambler model. I mean, seriously – you either do this right or you don’t do it at all!

(Isn’t it amazing how possessive people become when they haven’t even paid for the bike – Stuart) PT

H-D SPORTSTER 72 SPACE.THE LOST FRONTIER

Cruisers, be they baggers or not, usually have plenty of space to carry stuff, while choppers don’t. But what about bikes like our Sportster? It seems wrong to call it a cruiser, but it’s pretty much as it came from the factory so it isn’t a chopper, either. What is certain is that it has no room to carry anything, especially when it has a single seat like ours. And that leanness is part of its design brief and attraction, of course. A variant like the Sportster (shall we call it a Light Cruiser?) loses that space and any carrying capacity it might have had.

But we do want to carry a few things. Given Harley-Davidson’s anti-theft technology, a padlock and chain are less vital than they once were. But there’s still a tool kit (and yes, we’ve heard the jokes about a Harley tool kit being either a cold chisel and half a brick, or a mobile phone) and a tyre repair outfit. As well as that it is useful if you can carry a wet weather suit; and sometimes you just need some

room to take home a bit of shopping.

This is where the Milwaukee designers are ahead of us.

DOWN-TUBE BAG

H-D part #93300045

A$174.39, NZ$235.22

The tools fi rst. Harley-Davidson offers a leather tool bag, called a Down-Tube Bag, which attaches at the front of the frame, below the cylinder. It takes the place of what, on a sports bike, might be a lower spoiler. It does very little to bulk up the bike, but provides quite a bit of space. It’s made from strong, thick leather in either brown or black over a rigid plastic base and has a zippered compartment inside which reduces the likelihood of your tools getting wet in the rain.

It’s easy to fi t and the kit includes all the mounting hardware you need.

SINGLE-SIDED SWINGARM BAG

H-D part #90200573

A$268.33, NZ$361.93

For larger loads there’s the Swingarm Bag which attaches to the left-hand side of the bike, low down and almost as unobtrusive as the tool bag. It is made the same way and in

the same materials as that bag, too, and is just as easy to fi t. Capacity is claimed to be fi ve and a half litres, which seems a little high to me but which does show you that there is a lot of room there. If you want your Sportster to look like a Light Cruiser which still offers a bit of carrying space, a Swingarm Bag is an excellent choice.

YAMAHA MT-07 BLINKING PROTECTORS

LED Indicators

Price - $85.98 each set

LED indicators are some of the best things you could ever fi t to a motorcycle, the brighter that orange fl ash is, the more likely other motorists are to see you and not only that, these particular genuine Yamaha accessory carbon look LED indicators are smaller than the standard items and ten times brighter. Fitment took around one and a half hours and they come with

full instructions for an easy fi tment. See your local Yamaha dealer or https://yshop.

yamaha-motor. com.au/ you can fi t them up to just about any motorcycle, not just a Yamaha, too.

ASIA MOTORCYCLE TOURING

Experience the fantastic riding, food and culture of Thailand, Laos or Cambodia

Small groups, fully guided and supported 7, 14 or 22 days options suit every budget

For more information please visit www.twogethertouring.nz

Email: info@twogethertouring.nz

Phone: +61 417 417 464

WRAPPED IN A BLANKET

Frame sliders $319.28, Axle Protectors, Front, Titanium $142.81, Axle Protectors, Rear, Titanium $159.49. A naked motorcycle is very much that in a crash, so protecting our precious beauty was top priority in case of any accidentals. Alana is learning to ride on this bike and as much as she

is a good rider, you never know what might happen out there on the road, so protecting the MT-07 with the well thought out range of genuine Yamaha crash protectors was the way to go. These include the front and rear axle sliders and the chunky engine protectors. We hope we don’t get

to try them out! Fitment took about twenty minutes. See your local Yamaha dealer or www.yshop.yamaha-motor.com.au

BARK LOUDER!

Running lights from Barkbusters

Price - $69.95

Increase your visibility to other road users with the NEW Barkbusters

LED indicators and running lights, and just incidentally look seriously cool. This great idea from barkbusters can be retro fi tted to Barkbusters JET, VPS and STORM guards. Lights

sit on the upper or lower front-facing sides of VPS and STORM guards or upper face of the JET guard. Indicator and running lights are E Mark approved with 15 super bright LED’s

per light, with a low power draw. Available from September from your local bike shop, with more info at www.barkbusters.net

FRESH FROM THE TREE

New Axle and Oggy Knobbs –Yamaha R3 & Ducati Scrambler

Price - $249, $99 (axle) or $399 for 6 piece set - Yamaha R3

Price - $185, $99 (axle), or $349 for 6 piece set – Ducati Scrambler

Help keep your wallet fat by fi tting a set of the benchmark crash protectors – Oggy Knobbs. Now available for the sweet little Yamaha R3 (including Axle Oggys) and the delectable Ducati Scrambler. Only the strongest, most resilient materials are used to ensure

appearance. State of the art manufacturing techniques like CNC machining, laser cutting and MIG welding are used in the production

process for accuracy and perfect fi t. Available in black or white. See your local bike shop, or visit www.kenma.com.au

REJOICE!

TUbliss

Price - $159.95

TUbliss is an amazing system that eliminates the need for an inner tube in your tube-type rim, allowing the use of tubeless repair kits on the run, protecting your rim more than a regular tube and allowing you to run a lower tyre pressure off road for increased footprint and traction. The TUbliss system comprises of a thin 100psi inner seal that locks the bead of your tyre against the rim bead with 100psi of pressure, sealing it completely. You can then adjust the outer pressure to suit, creating a tubeless effect. The TUbliss system works with standard tyres and rims, saves unsprung weight and will increase your off-road enjoyment through better traction, improved handling and, as a huge bonus, save skinned knuckles – no more tubes! Ask your local motorcycle shop for more information or visit www.ProAccessories.com.au or call 07 3277 0693.

EXQUISITE

New Kuryakyn products

Küryakyn is staying on the gas heading into the second half of 2015

with all-new product releases for Harley-Davidson, Indian and Victory models. The recently released parts and accessories are available now at

www.kuryakyn.com and soon through their dealer and distributor network – Rollies Speed Shop here in Aus.

PHILLIP ISLAND MOTOGP RUN IN OCTOBER

NEW IN THE SHOPS

THAT’S WHAT FOUR WHEELS ARE FOR!

XTech Ute Bed Extender Ramp

Price - $349.95

Make your ute useful with this ute bed extender from XTech. It encloses the tail gate area to secure your gear and your bike. Made from strong and lightweight aluminium, the extender doubles as a functional ramp. Fits a variety of utes and trucks, mounting straps and hardware included, you can easily reverse it to secure cargo

bike shop or www.cassons.com.au

FUNCTIONAL PROTECTION

Dainese Giro ST boots

Price - $299.95

Designed for those in search of attractive design with a sports look at no loss of safety and quality, this boot in Lorica adopts avant-garde technical solutions. These include the shock absorption heel, TPU heel and shin guard, nylon outsole and toe, D-Stone construction, elasticated bellows and calf adjustments which allows the fi t to be adapted to the feet of different wearers. Differentiated textured soles and TPU inserts on the inner side ensure even more precise riding thanks to the elevated grip provided. Available in sizes 40-47; see your local bike shop or visit www.cassons.com.au

RELEASE THE BEAST

Akrapovic slip-on Ducati

Ask me what the Ducati Scrambler sounds like standard and the response

Akrapovic has allowed the inner beast to be released with the fi tment of their new Slip-On Line exhaust range for the bike, which is constructed using high-grade titanium and will be available as an ECE- and ECapproved exhaust system or as a non-type-approved open version. The slip-on does come with removable baffl es, too. See your local bike shop or visit www.akrapovic.com for more.

APPLES AND MORE

Touratech “iBracket”

Price - $214.05

Touratech’s iBracket for the iPhone 6 sees form and function unite. In order to do justice to the design, feel and shape of the iPhone 6, the components of Touratech’s iBracket have been reduced to the bare essentials. “iBracket” for Apple iPhone 6 is also compatible with: Samsung Galaxy Alpha, Huawei Ascend Y530 and other popular mobile phones. The mounting bracket can also be used with common silicone protective cases for the iPhone. For more information and to order, visit the Touratech webshop: www.touratech.com.au 

Until Stuart suggested I pick up the new 2015 Spyder F3S model from Western Motorcycles in Penrith, my only encounter with a Can-Am three-wheeler had been heading down to Dalgety a few years back. I remember this journey well; in fact I still wake up screaming every now and then. The Bear and I nearly joined the Choir Invisible Coming the other way out of Cooma along the Monaro Highway, a Toyota

CAN-AM SPYDER F3S

TRIPLE THE ATTENTION

WORDS/PHOTOS NICK WOOD

Landcruiser towing a heavy wood chipper, jack-knifed. Had it not been for the gods to decide it was not our time to die, it would not have missed us by inches. We would simply have been splattered. There was nowhere to go. The journey back from Dalgety was also memorable as it rained stair rods the whole way back and I thought if I had to be anywhere right now, it’s riding pillion on the back of the Spyder, with its massive perspex

screen and bulky chassis to keep us a modicum of dry.

Since that eventful journey back in 2010, the Can-Am Spyder has grown in popularity, Darren Moody from Western Motorcycles estimates that more than three hundred are sold across Australia each year. They have also evolved into quite a mechanical/electrical masterpiece. Keeping three wheels on the ground in that confi guration is not down to

BIKE TEST

the wonders of my riding, I might say. The Vehicle Stability System developed with Bosch delivers antilocking brakes, traction control and stability control. I might add here that on the way back from Western Motorcycles, I took a call from a mate of mine and we decided that you don’t ride a Spyder, you don’t drive a Spyder, you ‘dride’ (sic) a Spyder.

Before I get too technical about the Spyder, I will stick to anecdotes of my experience riding this machine around the Blue Mountains where I live. To be honest you won’t get more attention with your clothes off than when you are riding the Spyder. I live in a small hamlet called Bilpin and I decided to take the Spyder to my daughter’s primary school at pick up time on my way back from Western Motorcycles. I have never seen so many kids want to jump all over a bike in all my born days, getting their parents to take photos with their phones. The same thing happened when my mate Sam and I took our machines over to Blackheath for a Sunday morning coffee over the Darling Causeway. My coffee was cold by the time I had fi nished explaining what it was and how it handled the road. Everyone seemed to have an opinion on the Sypder. Most folks were pretty impressed with its red chassis and machined mag styled wheels and unique design.

So what is it like to ride? Well, the answer to that question is “very different from a two-wheeled motorcycle”. Obviously there is no leaning into corners so the abstract feeling of steering with your body is absent. It’s all in the power assisted steering through to the handlebars. The steering initially to me was very twitchy. I struggled to get the hang of it to be honest. In actual fact on the way back from Penrith I hated the whole experience, there I have said it! But as any new experience, it takes time and in the back of my mind, I was having a great time riding the Spyder, which seemed like a contradiction. Putting the

“TO BE HONEST YOU WON’T GET MORE ATTENTION WITH YOUR CLOTHES OFF THAN WHEN YOU ARE RIDING THE SPYDER”

steering issues aside for a moment, what really impressed me was the new in-line triple Rotax 1330cc engine. In the past Can-Am has used a twin cylinder engine but this new confi guration for the 2015 model has a silky smooth delivery of power, transferring a maximum of 86kW to a six speed gearbox via electronic fuel injection and electronic clutch control. The experience is one of instant power and smooth gear shifting. With our speed limits however, I rarely pushed into sixth gear maintaining a good level of fuel economy and gear ratio in fi fth. My few days with the Spyder had me calculating some fi gures and on an average it’s fair to say that you will get roughly 400km from the 27 litre tank. It may be more on a long direct route and less around town. There is an ECO button which will tell you on the dash when is the best time to change gears so the technology is there to help. Changing gears is so easy with a toggle on the left handlebar, away for up and towards for down, and as soon as you apply braking the gearbox automatically shifts down until you come to a standstill and there it will sit in 1st, however this can be turned off if you want to shift “manually”. When you are out on the open road there is cruise control for your comfort, enabling you to sit back and enjoy the scenery. When you need some power to get you away from the lights, there is plenty to blow off most four wheeled vehicles. The only thing that is going to slow your journey down is chin wagging with bystanders and tyre kickers every time you stop for a break.

The Spyder has a more sit up position than the past Spyder models. It suits me fi ne but the lack of a screen on my sporty F3S model might be regretted when on long journeys. I remember my journey back from Dalgety was made bearable in that driving rain with a windscreen, and I was the pillion! So back to the steering! One thing you will have to get used to is G-forces. May the force be with you as Darth Vader once said? Well, it could be true of the Spyder. I did notice a fair amount of G-force as I went round sweeping corners at a fair speed, especially around my midriff. I found in my experience that leaning slightly into the corner will have no effect on the bikes cornering but will save your stomach muscles from some moderate strain. Keep your eyes on the front wheel nearest the meridian strip and follow that through the corners, it helps to keep the bike on an even sweep. Let me tell you the steering is highly responsive and you will have to concentrate on your direction. My fi rst ten minutes on the Bells Line of Road were a baptism of fi re. I would say this vehicle is not for everyone, but if you like speed and a certain amount of attention and have all the time in the world to chin wag about the attributes of a Spyder, go for it. It’s technically very advanced, as you would imagine from BRP. It does offer a fair amount of road presence and you will still be ‘one of the pack’. You are more likely to get the ‘bike shy’ partner on the back of a Spyder due to its presence on the road. It has oodles of power and will keep most speed freaks happy. It has plenty of baggage space with loads of custom options for those long getaways with your better half. You will still belong to your riding group, even though your days on two wheels might be over. And going back to my derogatory statement, I’m prepared to take it back. After a week or so riding my three-wheeler, I had become accustomed to its eccentricities and found the experience highly enjoyable – be open to new things, I say. 

SPECS

BRP CAN-AM SPYDER F3S

PRICE: $25,790 (manual), $28,890 (electronic shift) (plus on-road charges)

WARRANTY:Two years, unlimited distance

SERVICING INTERVALS: Every 10,000km or 12 months

ENGINE: Liquid-cooled in-line three cylinder, 4-stroke

BORE x STROKE: 84 x 80mm

DISPLACEMENT: 1330cc

COMPRESSION: N/A

POWER: 86kW @ 7250rpm

TORQUE: 130Nm @ 5000rpm

TRANSMISSION: 6-speed, wet multi-plate clutch

SUSPENSION: Front, Double A-arm with anti-roll bar, travel 128.9mm. Rear, monoshock, travel 132.4mm.

DIMENSIONS: Seat height 675mm, weight 386kg (dry), fuel capacity 27 litres, wheelbase 1709mm

TYRES: Front, 165/55R15. Rear, 225/50/R15

FRAME: Steel Y-frame

BRAKES: Front, twin 270mm discs with monobloc four-piston calipers. Rear, 270mm disc, single-piston caliper.

FUEL CONSUMPTION: 6.10 litres per 100km, premium unleaded

THEORETICAL RANGE: 400km

COLOURS: Metallic Silver

VERDICT:THREE TIMES THE ATTENTION

PHOTOGRAPHS FROM A BIKE

I JUST HAPPENED TO BE THERE AT THE TIME WORDS/PHOTOS BOB WOZGA

Bob has been sending us some interesting variations on “normal” photography, so we asked him how he does it. Turns out it’s quite simple.

The camera is an extraordinary time machine that allows people to see again what you saw at a precise moment of time. Photographing what seem to be mundane subjects now can prove to be interesting later down the track. An old shop on the street corner may be bulldozed in a year’s time and an office block put in its place. With the quality of digital cameras, it makes it so much easier to get a reasonable result with your photos.

You don’t need to spend big on camera gear. I used to travel with a Canon AE1, three lenses and tripod. I got some great shots with this setup. But it did become cumbersome changing lenses and being very particular with how I approached each shot because of the limited frames they had to work with. I now travel with a Canon EOS-350D, standard 28 -50mm lens, mobile phone and tripod. I even use the camera on my mobile phone if I want a quick snapshot. By today’s standards, the camera is somewhat primitive with its lack of programmable options, however, it makes me think more of the shot I’m about to take. I consider the framing,

lighting, should I change the ISO setting, should I use the flash or natural light? Will the shot look better in black and white instead of colour? I have an idea of what I want the photo to look like when I take the shot. Magazines, photographic books and galleries are an inspiration as to what camera angles work and how odd subjects can look very photogenic if approached the right way. With the variety of photo editing products available, it is easy to sit by the PC, cull the photos that don’t make the cut and enhance the keepers. I use “Fotor” and “Picasa 3”. This is only due to their ease of use and they 1 2 4 3

give reasonable results. The simpler editing software also gives the photos a more real or rustic look as opposed to something that is overly produced. Tips for editing:

1. Open the picture, look at it, is it what you had in mind when you took the shot?

2. Crop out any parts that you don’t want in the shot.

3. Adjust the brightness and contrast to the desired level.

4. If the original photo was in colour, try changing to B/W and see if this enhances the picture. Cinemascope also gives B/W

photos a nostalgic effect.

5. I sometimes use a combination of two editing products to gain the result I am after.

6. Experimenting with borders and frames add to the atmosphere of the photo depending on whether I want it to look modern or warm.

7. I often have 4 or 5 variations of the same photo, make a decision as to which one I like best, then ask my proofreader (wife) which one is best. We don’t always agree.

8. Don’t get discouraged by criticism. You’ll be surprised what you can create with a bit of imagination.

1. Hoskinstown

2. Autumn in Camden

3. Hoskinstown

4. Busker in Bowral

5. Rain in Camden

6. Wombeyan Caves Road, Bullio

7. Crookwell

9. Most importantly, enjoy what you do.

And what can we do but agree? Take a look at Bob’s photos and see if you would have done the same thing he has… or used your own creativity. PT =

ADV TEAR-OUT MAP

TRACKING THE HIGH COUNTRY

BRIGHT, VIC

Thesnow in Victoria’s high country should almost be starting to melt, so now is the time to start planning your next adventure trip around the wonderful high country dirt tracks. If you plan it right, you might even catch the tail end of the snow, which will make some of these tracks slippery with mud. It all adds to the “adventure”.

BRIGHT

Nestled between mountains, picturesque Bright is the place to base yourself for this ride. All services are available and if you want to treat yourself, there are plenty of high end places to stay and to eat.

Bright was first known as Morse’s Creek after F.H. Morse but it was renamed in honour of the British orator and politician John Bright in 1866. The main industry of the town nowadays is tourism, with much focus on the autumnal colours of the European trees planted all over the place. For adventure riders, there is the adventure film festival and our good friends at Touratech hold weekends of fun and adventure to enjoy there.

BEVERIDGES STATION

If you want to catch your own dinner,

Buckland River runs alongside the station and has plenty of fish to catch.

WONNANGATTA STATION

Wonnangatta Station was a cattle station. According to writer Harry Stephenson the station, while it operated, was “the most isolated homestead in Victoria”. The Wonnangatta Station homestead was accidentally burnt down by bushwalkers in 1957. Some stockyards and the old cemetery, which has been restored to something resembling its original form, survive. The station and surrounding area are the site of the still-unsolved Wonnangatta murders which occurred in late 1917 and 1918.

LAKE COBBLER HUT

There are many huts throughout the Mount Cobbler area, built by early graziers, privately for recreation or by the former Forestry and Lands Departments. The present Lake Cobbler Hut was built in 1986 by the Wangaratta 4WD Club. The original hut was built in the early 1900s as part of the Lovick grazing licence, followed by another built by Sam Christopher and Frank Gorman who had the Cobbler grazing licence from 1929 to the 1940s.

Enjoy a visit to the hut but do not rely on it for accommodation – take your camping gear. The last section of road into the Lake Cobbler Hut area provides dramatic glimpses of the Dandongadale Falls (Victoria’s longest falls with a 255m drop), tumbling off the Cobbler Plateau. Lake Cobbler itself is a small, artificial lake; it was created in the 1960s by damming a swamp area in the headwaters of the Dandongadale River.

BUCKLAND

Buckland was once a thriving gold mining township. It is estimated that over 1000 miners died back in 1853 as a result of typhoid disease, which spread through the diggings and all that’s left now is a ghost town. Maybe you’ll be able to have a ‘chat’ with some of the old miners? Aborigines were once drawn to the area in summer by the large numbers of bogong moths which were seeking relief from the higher temperatures of the plains. After roasting them in strips of bark they ate the bodies or ground them into a paste. It is said the moths tasted like prawns (they don’t; they taste like mothsThe Bear). 

PINK ROUTE

The logical place to base yourself for this adventure is Bright. Head left or right out of Bright – flip a coin, but for this trip I headed left.

I must pre-warn you that some of this trip is pretty technical, especially if you’re traversing this route as the snow is starting to melt, as some of the roads will be mushy slush.

Head south on Morses Creek Road and veer right onto Nolan Creek Track, making a continual westerly course along Clear Creek Track until you get to Buckland Valley Road. Turn left and head south again, with this road turning into Selwyn Creek Road, which you need to follow until it turns into Tree Range Track and you get almost as far south as Mount Sarah Scenic Reserve. Head south-west along Spur Water Track making your way south to Hummffray River Shelter Hut. After a few kilometres head west again along Wonnangatta Track, past Wonnangatta Station and Wonnangatta Station Hut. Around ten kilometres are the hut you need to veer right to stay on

Wonnangatta Track and head north, with this track turning into Harry Shephard Track, West Buffalo Track, Abbeyard Road, until you get to Camp Creek Track.

GREEN ROUTE (OPTIONAL)

As you reach this point you have the option to turn left onto Abbeyard-Lake Cobbler Track and head down to Lake Cobbler Hut, which is a scenic, relaxing spot.

PINK ROUTE

If you decide against the optional route, turn right onto Camp Creek Track, veering right (when you come to any other tracks off to the side) until you need to turn left onto Scotchmans Creek Track.

Basically you follow this all the way north through Buckland (an old town site) and back onto the bitumen, being Buckland Valley Road. About five kilometres out of Porepunkah, turn right onto Dingo Ridge Road and make your way back down into Bright. If you happen to take a wrong turn up in the

COLLECT THEM ALL

logging mountains here, don’t stress, because you only really need to “follow your nose” back into Bright along one of the many tracks.

ROAD CONDITIONS

As many of these roads get covered with snow during Winter, it is paramount that you check the road conditions. Parks Victoria (http:// parkweb.vic.gov.au/) is one to check with, as some roads have seasonal closures. You can also check with Vic Roads (http://traffic.vicroads.vic.gov.au/).

CAMPING

There are many camping spots around this route if you wish to turn this into a two day ride. The two logical places would be Wonnangatta Station Hut or Lake Cobbler Hut. Again, check with Parks Victoria in case you need any permits to light a fire or to camp.

FUEL

There is no fuel along this route, other than in Bright. 

DON’T FALL AND…

DON’T LET IT FALL!

Brake-Fix - Price - $17.95

Ever had that heartbreaking shock when your bike rolled off the sidestand? To prevent this, Pro Accessories has made available the “Brake-Fix”. It simply attaches to the brake lever and handlebar. Squeeze the brake on, place the Brake-Fix, pull the black lever to sit it in one of the channels and you’re done. To release, simply lift the black lever.

Of course most geared motorcycles don’t absolutely need something like this, but if you’re prone to parking your bike so it can roll off the sidestand, this is right up your alley. However, the two wheeled machines we see this being a great item for is of course scooters. Inner city scooter riders who need to park their machine on all sorts of weird and wonderful slopes of the road will especially love this. Now you don’t have to worry, just attach the Brake-Fix and you’re safe. See your local bike shop or visit www. proaccessories.com.au SW

NEVER GET LOST, AGAIN!

Ridersmate - Price - $399

What would you do, if riding by yourself out in the middle of nowhere (as we do) and you happen to have an

accident and are down off the side of the road and not able to move, not visible to any passers-by, or on such an isolated road that traffic coming your way is rarer than the proverbial? Well, I’m sure there have been cases where the rider has perished. A mate of mine almost had this experience a few months back. Had he not woken up and somehow decided to call his wife, I daresay he wouldn’t be here now.

This is where the potentially lifesaving Ridersmate comes in. This is a device that is attached to you and somewhere on the bike. If you separate, the bottom of the Ridersmate detaches and sends your pre-programmed telephone numbers an SMS requesting assistance, along with your GPS co-ordinates, if you do not reattach it in less than 35 seconds. To cancel the response, you can simply reattach the jack plug to the unit, which will send a second message.

From the minute it’s switched on, Ridersmate begins recording and saving data about location, speed, altitude and heading. So, not only is this a potentially life-saving device, you can also save, store and share information about your favourite rides with other Ridersmate users on the Ridersmate website.

What’s the technology behind it? Ridersmate uses advanced GPS and

DON’T GET LOST!

GPRS technology. It’s not a GPS tracker like some other products on the market, rather it works a little like your mobile phone, with a SIM card inside, and uses the GPRS data service to send SMS messages when activated. Mostly, we found that even with only “SOS” service on our mobile, the Ridersmate was still able to send an SMS.

Now the part you need to work out for yourself is where is a convenient location to attach the device to you, and somewhere on the motorcycle. We tried around the belt buckle and the left handlebar grip. This was okay, but we found it was too easy to set off. We then tried around the belt buckle and down on the side of the subframe. Again, it was kind of easy to set off. The way we ended up using the Ridersmate was to attach the device itself to the motorcycle and the small, detaching part to our glove, or end of the jacket. This allowed you to have enough “stretchiness” in the cord to not set it off accidentally, yet if we did happen to fall off, it would detach and send the SMS.

So, if you ride alone in remote parts of our big brown land, consider the Ridersmate, which could just save your life. Available direct from www.xenonoz.com or email frank@xenonoz.com SW 

CLASSIC MORRIS

CHASED BY THE TOFFEE-NOSES

THIS IS WHAT BATHURST WAS LIKE IN THE REALLY EARLY DAYS!

It was a Saturday night at Sydney’s Showground Speedway way back in 1948 which changed it all, and it was very much for the better. It was, as usual, almost a packed house, but one of the unexpected items on the program was the addition of several promotional laps by a large number of motorcycles which differed radically from the skinny, ultra-lightweight Speedway bikes. They were in fact highly-specialised, un-streamlined road-racing machines, which looked extremely impressive, although they were naturally ridden on the slick dirt surface at much slower speeds than the nigh-frantic pace of the races we had already witnessed.

The loud-barking machines, with their trumpet-like open megaphone exhausts, were there to promote the forthcoming road race meeting at Bathurst, which was to be held in a few weeks’ time over the Easter break, from practice on the Thursday prior to several races on Good Friday, with the major events listed for Easter Saturday. Nobody said it at the time, but the open-wheeler GP car racing events were then scheduled for Easter Sunday and the following Monday, the motorcycles expected to leave the Pit area immediately after Easter Saturday’s races were finished.

As the ‘poor relations’ in motor sport - at least they were in those far-off days - anyone who might have been a bit tardy in packing up and leaving at once on Easter Saturday afternoon was almost hounded out of the dirtsurfaced Pit area by the clearly toffeenosed car types, who appeared to think they were God’s Gift to Motor Racing. As it happened, of course, in view of some very close motorcycle racing for

two full days, followed by two days of the high-speed procession which often typifies GP car racing, the car-types were nowhere near as spectacular. In this regard, nothing much has changed over the last sixty and more years, although it must be said that the later V8 Taxi-Cab races do have their own drama, and can be quite a spectacle. My brothers and I, all of whom were still at school, along with a great school mate of mine, were so smitten by the sights and sounds of those gleaming road race machines that we hot-footed it to Central Station the following day to book our train tickets for the journey over the Blue Mountains to Bathurst. We had a faint idea where/what Bathurst was, but no blind idea what to expect when we finally arrived there. We booked our hired, four-man tent and our pushbikes into the Guard’s Van, because we thought that to have our bikes on hand for basic transport might be a Good Idea. In fact it was a smart move which proved to be – for a pleasant change - a Very Good Idea! We noted the fact that there were two motorcycles stashed in the Van which were sporting racing number plates, and we reckoned the track might be near the station, and that the owner(s) of the two bikes had doubtless arranged for them to be conveyed to the track by a truck of some sort, with us following in their wake. As we were later to discover, one of the bikes was a pre-war 250cc single-cylinder Triumph Tiger 70, which had made an amazingly long, long journey from Western Australia entirely by public transport (!), the other, from Sydney, was a rigidframed 350cc MAC Velocette.

Naturally, we were not to know (how could we?) that the train we were to

catch at 7pm on the Thursday prior to Good Friday was the ‘Paper Train’, which always took its own sweet time on the journey as it dropped off bundles of newspapers here and there, as well as the odd one or two papers which were hand-delivered to individuals representing householders and who lived close enough to the railroad tracks to trot across the paddock to pick them up. True!

But what was infinitely worse was the fact that a Migrant Hostel had been built in Bathurst to accommodate the burgeoning migrant population which was even then beginning to make its presence felt. We were also not to know that an influx of new migrants were (was?) to catch the same train as us, and that there were a great many of them as well!

We became very well aware of this as soon as we approached the platform from which the Bathurst train was to depart, because we could hear the loud, excited babble long before we got there to see what the noise was all about. When we arrived at our platform we were horrified to see it was absolutely jam-packed with a great variety of swarthy looking men, who seemed to be arguing loudly with each other because there were arms and legs flying about all over the place, the men speaking in rapid, stentorian tones, often almost face-to-face. There was not one female to be seen anywhere on that platform. Of course we couldn’t understand one word any of them were saying, but the men all seemed to know what they were on about, because they were to be seen nodding to one another, occasionally laughing, or gesturing as if to draw imaginary pictures in the air around them. I remember one large,

florid looking bloke who said something like “Sidderknee” while his mate made an utterance which sounded a bit like “Suddenly”, and which could have meant ‘Sydney’, but the rest was lost in the loud hubbub, as well as in the odd range of foreign languages in which they all spoke.

The air around that platform was a bit on the thick side, and seemed to be rent with cigarette smoke allied to a garlic-and-cheap plonk-induced halitosis, while many of these men were to be heard loudly venting their other digestive problems via an alarming array of faintly-amusing, wind-induced sounds. Deep bass belches and loudlytrumpeted, wet farts seemed to be going off everywhere, mixed with some tenorlike (and infinitely more polite) burps from the more civilized of their number.

An astonishingly large number of vastly differing keys could be heard, which would probably be declared ‘musical’ by today’s very poor standard of ‘pop vocalising’, but most of those odd keys were never in evidence on any sheet music of any song I have ever sung.

Suddenly, there was a loud shuffling of feet, abetted by a series of strangled cheers and foreign curses, as the steam-train – for thus it was, because the electric railway line extended only to Parramatta until 1955, believe it or not – slowly backed into view. Try as we might ( or as dumb as we were), we could not get within a bull’s roar of the edge of the platform, while those who were clever enough to have placed themselves at the far end were opening carriage doors and windows, and launching themselves recklessly inside.

Many of the men were pelting bulging briefcases and small portmanteaux into the train as well, with some of their number assisting those who were halfway aboard by belting them across their various backsides with canes or rolledup newspapers. One bloke who tried to jump aboard just in front of me had a

.22 rifle strapped sideways across his shoulders for some incomprehensible reason, which severely inhibited his access. He had shoved me brusquely aside as he tried to climb through the narrow window, so I was delighted to see the rifle slip from his shoulder and clatter to the tracks below as he struggled to get aboard. Happily, there was no way known he could have retraced his steps to retrieve the offending firearm, although I did wonder

“THE TRAIN’S ENGINE WAS ENVELOPED IN CLOUDS OF STEAM, BUT THEN SO WERE MOST OF US AS EVERYONE –THAT’S EVERYONE NOISILY RELIEVED THEMSELVES FROM POSITIONS BETWEEN THE CARRIAGES, UP AGAINST THE SIDES OF THE CARRIAGES, OR EVEN WHERE THEY STOOD”

why he had it with him, and what he thought he was going to do with it when he arrived at his destination.

So there we were, jammed in like sardines in a can far too small for them, standing upright, face-to-face and with nowhere to go. The man I was jammed up against seemed to be pleasant enough, but his nicotine-stained, moth-eaten, lop-sided, moustache was of some concern, as his garlic-andcurried prawn breath was. It wasn’t his fault, of course, and he seemed to be apologetic enough, but it was in no way a comfortable experience. Perhaps, as in Shakespeare’s ‘comic relief’, his funny moustache was enough to have me giggling like a schoolgirl not long after we moved slowly away, and it was some time before I was able to settle myself

down again. My companion looked at me very sadly, and tried to make soothing noises, which didn’t help at all – in fact, it succeeded in making it a whole lot worse.

But it was to become much worse as the small steam engine struggled to move away with its huge cargo of oddlyassorted human beings. It fairly crept out of the station, which brought the thought to mind that it was never, ever going to have enough grunt to carry us safely over the Blue Mountains.

To make matters even worse - if that was possible - it seemed to pull up at every platform and whistle stop from Central to Parramatta, and then, ever slower, to Blacktown and finally into Penrith. I’m sure it stopped, or slowed down, at least ten times during that short journey to drop off bundles of papers.

But at Penrith we stayed, stayed, and stayed some more, as we were shunted off into an un-used siding while we waited for another engine to be hitched to the one we had, hopefully providing enough impetus for us to creep over the Mountains.

We lurched on anew, and still at a snail’s pace, the two engines puffing like mad while struggling to heave a train with its over-loaded human cargo over the ever-steepening rails ahead. Even then, the train stopped at tiny, narrow platforms on very regular occasions over the mountains, which meant it had to shuffle painfully away from a standstill many times o’er. On three occasions, as dawn was breaking, the train slowed down as people – one of whom, a woman in a pink dressing gown, was obscenely shouted at in a variety of languages and obvious gestures – trotted across open fields to dodge rolled-up papers which were hurled at them by the train driver and/or his coal shoveling off-sider. I wondered aloud into the face of my friendly passenger why they didn’t think to deliver the papers by truck, but he just raised his eyebrows, blinked in

CLASSIC MORRIS

my face and said nothing. Of course he couldn’t understand any more of what I said to him than I could of what his friends were saying to him. Even with that enormous number of men jampacked into the carriage it was a lonely ride, because I couldn’t see my brothers or school-mate anywhere and thus had no-one to speak (English) to.

I did hear them on one occasion, as some foreign jackass opened a train window and hung half-out of it and relieve himself, for my brother was heard to shout. “Christ, it’s cold. Hey, sit down here where there is a natural windbreak.” To which my chum from school drily remarked “Oh, and who broke it?”

A small procession of other men began, as best they could, to noisily relieve themselves out of that train window, while a couple of other windows were coldly opened nearby to allow others to gleefully indulge in the same pursuit. For the most part they seemed to be fairly successful, except for the occasional lurch round unexpected corners or over rough level crossings; it’s called ‘getting your own back’, while accidentally anointing several others.

At long last that shocking train journey ended when we pulled into Bathurst station at 8am on Good Friday, that awful journey taking more than twelve (12) grim hours! The doors quickly burst open and everyone fell out of the carriages; one or two flat on their backs, one or two face down, where they were naturally trodden upon or stumbled over, but all of us at last able to flex cramped arms and legs and to gulp in the life-enhancing, freezing, crystal clear air.

The train’s engine was enveloped in clouds of steam, but then so were most of us as everyone – that’s everyone – noisily relieved themselves from positions between the carriages, up against the sides of the carriages, or even where they stood. It was a grossly awful spectacle, if an absolutely

essential one, which seemed to raise the ire of the busy station master who was running about all over the place, shouting hopelessly at everyone.

We repaired to the Guard’s Van to collect our bikes, to discover that the owners of the two race machines had enjoyed a far more leisurely trip, sleeping for most of that long journey within the confines of the van, one of them settling very comfortably upon our tent.

The strangest thing about those two men was that neither of them had arranged for anyone to meet them, which meant they had to wheel their motorcycles the two miles or so out to the track, which we of course helped them to do. The Velocette owner –whose name, from memory, was Robertson - had a large suitcase and smaller toolbox perched upon the bike’s single saddle and rubber rear-guard pad. But the rider of the Tiger 70 (who carried everything he needed within a large ex-Army haversack) was to tell us a marvelous story about his journey across the continent from Perth by train(s) as we walked along, as each of us proudly took turns in wheeling one or the other of the machines along; our own bikes held by other pushbike riders.

We marveled at the incredible story of the man who booked himself and his bike across the Nation many, many years before the one-gauge line from Perth to Sydney, being conveyed for much of his trip in a variety of Guards Vans. He and his bike went from Perth to Kalgoorlie, to change trains for Port Augusta, to join another train into Adelaide, yet another train to Melbourne, another to Albury, to change yet again for the journey to Sydney, and again from Sydney to Bathurst!

That was a total of seven (7) trains he had to catch on his five-day long journey from Perth to Bathurst, and he had to do the same thing all over again

to get back home!! If ever there was a Gold Medal on hand to be awarded for Sheer Guts and Rampant Enthusiasm, that bloke should have been given a sugar-bag full of them!

As it happened, he rode to a very high place in the 250cc Lightweight event – fourth or fifth from memory - and finished high in the placings in the 350cc Junior Clubman’s event as well. I trust it made his arduous trip well worthwhile – he said afterward that it did, as he made the journey back to Sydney with us within the relative comfort of a half-empty, second-class carriage. I foolishly asked him how he might have felt had his engine blown up within five minutes of firing it up for practice, but he said nothing as he smiled and stared dreamily out of the carriage window.

Clearly, he had enjoyed the whole exercise, and what a wonderful adventure that parlous journey must have been; what skill and ingenuity he showed in organizing it, and what enormous courage, not to mention determination, he displayed in bringing it all to fruition! I often wonder what his friends, family and neighbors thought of him when he’d told them what he had planned to do. 

WHAT SAY YOU?

WELOVE TO HEAR FROM YOU, the letters are among the most keenly read parts of the magazine. Please try and keep letters down to no more than 300 words. Then you can read many, not just a couple. We do reserve the right to cut them and, unless you identify yourself and at least your town or suburb and state, we will print your email address instead. Please address letters to thebear@ausmotorcyclist.com.au or Australian Motorcyclist Magazine, PO Box 2066, Boronia Park NSW 2111. All opinions published here are those of the writers and we do not vouch for their accuracy or even their sanity!

AND THE BAG PERSON IS…

Jeff Cole, for this issue. Jeff has been very helpful and scouted out a motorcycle transporter who might just be able to help you if you’re coming from or going to a remote (well, relatively remote) area. For his helpfulness, Jeff scores one of the excellent Andy Strapz ShouldaBagz (Andy makes much better bags than he spells, don’t worry). We are very fond of Andy’s gear and use a lot of it ourselves, so

we have no hesitation in calling Jeff a lucky man!

ALICE WHERE?

Bear,

Although I am not currently looking to transport any motorcycles I have had occasion to transport bikes in the past and may have in the future so I was looking forward to reading your article on bike carriers as my past experience with some carriers has been less than satisfactory. When I wanted to transport a bike I had sold I started my search for a carrier. I thought companies with names like ‘We Transport Motorcycles Anywhere’, Australia-wide Motorcycle Transport’ or ‘All States Motorcycle Transport’ would be able to help. What I didn’t realise was that Alice Springs wasn’t in Australia. Or perhaps it was that Alice Springs is in the Northern TERRITORY which isn’t, strictly speaking, a state (even though Darwin seems to be in both Australia and a state) so none of the companies

Hi

I just saved up the $250 to join your bear club but I joined this happy bears club instead I can’t wait for my turn to be cuddled and what makes it more exciting is that I will bring my own microphone for the patron to handle, hopefully on full volume.

Yours in riding,

Ian Gregory

Ian, Ian, Ian. What are we going to do with you? – The Bear

DIGITAL DOWNLOAD DIFFICULT

Hello Ausmotorcyclist people, Please can you help me with a problem

I contacted actually had The Alice as a destination (despite being half way between Adelaide and Darwin which were both on their maps).

When I had occasion to ship 2 motorcycles from Perth to Alice Springs I was pleased to have been told of Bike Nut (http:// www.bikenuttransport.com.au/), a company that does realise that The Alice is in Australia. So if someone has a need to transport a bike to somewhere other than a capital city give Bike Nut a call, they might be able to accommodate you.

Cheers

Jeff Cole

Alice Springs

Thanks for the advice, Jeff. It can be a problem having bikes moved to or from places where nobody has a depot, although I’m surprised that so many people couldn’t help with the Alice! One of these days I’ll tell you about having to get a bike back from Queenstown in Tassie to Melbourne… - The Bear

I am having. I have tried to purchase the July edition of your magazine through the Magshop app on my iPad. I have previously been able to buy and download the magazine without any problems. However now when I try to buy the new edition, I keep getting a “server internal error” and cannot proceed any further with the purchase. Can you please help me with this problem as I would like to keep up with the latest copies of your great magazine.

Regards

Russell Ullbricht

Sorry, Russell. We are currently changing over from Magshop to Zinio, and will make an announcement when the new

WHAT SAY YOU?

operation with great staff who cope very well with any wrinkles. All of their tours are personally researched and interesting with great riding including plenty of “tweesties”. On our tour of Greece last year Primož was known as “pre-Wash” - I think, a better nom de plume [than “Pineapple”].

I know that you have been all over Europe and points further afield but I particularly enjoyed/can recommend the Adriatic tour of Romania/Bulgaria which now dips down into Turkey. Regards

Bathurst

PS for Stuart. The August issue had a really good collection of stories/articles which has encouraged me to continue the monthly purchase.

Thank you, Rob. And yes, I like pre-Wash better than Pineapple, too – The Bear

IS IT A COVER-UP?

Dear Bear and Stuart, I liked the story about our IOM heroes, but I would prefer it if the cover was not a pointer to the future of Motorcyclist. I don’t want to see racing coverage in a magazine that covers so many other wonderful aspects of our mutual recreation.

Tell you what, though: I did like the poster. Can we look forward to more of them, maybe touring photographs rather than racing ones?

K de Jong

South Melbourne

Spot on there, ‘K’; we are just debating the question of regular posters – The Bear No, it’s not the pointer for future

issues, K, I can assure you that. It was just pointing out the IomTT –Cheers, Stuart.

AROUND AUSTRALIA

THE HARD WAY

Years ago you mentioned in an article that you had reprinted copies of above book. I had a copy but loaned it out, never to be returned. Any ideas on how to get a copy now?

Terry Dunn

You’re in luck, Terry. I have a few copies left, and if you send me $30 I’ll send you one of them! Address is PO Box 2066, Boronia Park NSW 2111 – The Bear

METHOD MAN

Good morning Stuart, My latest edition of Australian Motorcyclist magazine arrived the other day. As usual, I sat down in my favourite chair to look through. I have a set process when I receive my periodicals. I like to look through them first, glancing at the photos & the article headings. This teasing heightens the excitement, so that by the time I have finished my first look, I am rearing to read each article. I adopted this procedure with the last issue, then put it on my desk to build my anticipation. Imagine my absolute surprise upon reading the letters when I saw my name. Wonderful. I just wanted to pass on my thanks for selecting my letter as the winner of the Andy Strapz bags for that issue. I am really looking forward to it arriving. Thanks again & cheers,

Eoin

Thank you, too, Eoin. You sure have a solid method worked out there! - Stuart

GET THE GOOD GEAR

Hi Guys,

Thanks for a great read. I have just read your magazine while in hospital after being run down from behind at a red light, resulting in me ending up under a vehicle. I agree with Mark McVeigh’s “Ten Tips for Survival”. After my recent experience, I was definitely saved from worse injury by wearing the gear. What I would add though, is: Wear a full face helmet. My visor was broken and has scratches in it, the “eye port” seal gouged. The chin vent has gouges and a crack. I am certain if I was wearing an open faced helmet, I would be undergoing some form of reconstruction surgery.

Cheers and ride safe, Steven Allen Chermside West, Qld

Good to see that you came out of that little encounter relatively well, Steven. And good to see that you were wearing the appropriate gear! I must say, though, that I’m still comfortable wearing an open face helmet some of the time; I’ve crashed with one of those and come out of it reasonably well too – The Bear

DIGITAL DIDDLING ABOUT

Hi there,

I cannot download previous editions or new of Australian Motorcyclist using Magshop app. I have cleared my iPad cache, deleted and reinstalled the app but nothing has worked. Any ideas?

Regards

Terry McCarthy

Terry, it’s a pain. As we explained above, we are currently changing over from Magshop to Zinio, and will try to make previous editions available too – The Bear

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Bear in mind all

(unless indicated) exclude dealer and on road costs and some prices may have changed at the last minute as we went to the printer.

CAN-AM (BRP)

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CONFEDERATE MOTORCYCLES

EUROPEAN MOTORCYCLE ADVENTURES

LBEAR FACED

ife’s a rush – there’s never time to do everything. This is true for one very simple reason: the more you do, the more you find that you see, hear or think of other things that you want to do as well. It’s actually a good thing that my memory is going, or I’d have a head completely full of things I still want to try. And not just general things – really specifi c ones.

Here’s a perfect example. I was flying to Europe some time ago, when I raised the shade and looked out of the window of the plane. Below us was what looked like a lake, with a spectacular range of snow-capped mountains lining the shore to the south. At fi rst I thought we must be flying over the Caspian Sea, with the Elburz Mountains alongside.

“I’ve ridden that coastline,” I thought (no, I’m not humble even when I’m by myself) and started looking for landmarks I might know. But then I realised that we must be well past Iran. That would make the scene below the Black Sea, then… and if we were somewhere between Trabzon and Samsun, I would have ridden that coast too.

But hold on – we weren’t that far north. Finally I switched on the rolling map display (I’m a bloke –of course I only look things up when I have to admit I don’t know them already) and saw that the water was, in fact, Lake Van; which made the mountains… let’s see… the Taurus.

Not only have I never ridden through any part of the Taurus Mountains except the very lowest western foothills, but I’ve never even seen Lake Van from the ground. So I immediately started making plans to get

myself there and ride through that wonderful scenery. Should be able to get a bike in Ankara.

Bing! Another destination added to the Bucket List…

Flying does this to me all the time. The Emirates flights to Europe out of Dubai used to take off across the Arabian Gulf, cross the Iranian coast at about Bandar Lengeh and then stay over Iran until about Bandar Bushehr. That took us over some really exciting dirt biking country, with sandy roads on their way from one small oasis to another, climbing near-vertical sand dunes. Now let’s see, where could I get some bikes from inside Iran… and who would be likely to want to come with me? No, I was not going to ride that kind of country alone!

In fact, of course, I would not want to ride that kind of country even in company. It seems to me that it would be the kind of place where people with guns could be found everywhere, and I am not keen on that. Why, you ask, does it then not bother me to ride in places like Nevada where the “open carry” laws allow anyone to pack a piece? I’m not entirely sure, but it probably has something to do with being able to speak the language in the US, and therefore being able to explain (and plead, if necessary).

The very worst territory for flying over is the Alps. Hey, that’s a road down there! Don’t even get me started. But anywhere that looks a bit remote, or a bit rugged, sets me off. Every now and then I actually manage to find places that I’ve seen from the air. The countryside around Canberra, for example, is

a treasure trove. Several times now I have memorised the location of a fire trail or logging track that I’ve spotted during approach or departure from Canberra, and found my way there with the help of topographic or forestry maps. It’s a real feeling of achievement when you stop at the top of a hill and peer up at a plane coming in overhead.

Just recently I took a helicopter flight over the Grand Canyon, and I do have to admit that for once I was not tempted to get down there with a bike. The slopes of the sides of the canyon and the mesas are often vertical, and otherwise nearly so. Our pilot told us that one of his colleagues had spotted base jumpers diving off one of the cliffsides a few days earlier. Er, not for me, thank you. We also buzzed a herd of buffalo on the northern rim of the canyon, and once again I was pretty sure I didn’t want to be down there among them.

But other rewarding landscapes are pretty much everywhere in the United States of America. Long distance planes generally fly too high for anyone to spot useful roads or riding areas, but commuter planes are a different matter. Not only do they fly low, but the crew will often help out with a bit of patter about the places below. The Texas countryside waits for me to travel on several roads that I’ve spotted from the air but never had the chance to ride. Some of these came about when our Saab 360 was barred from landing at Dallas-Fort Worth due to clear air turbulence and spent some time throwing loops over the country to the south.

Eventually the co-pilot came on the tannoy and announced, “Well, that’s it. We’re outta gas.” We weren’t quite, but we had to land at Fort Hood to refuel.

Great country around there. Pity it’s all a military reservation… 

SEEN THERE, WANT TO DO THAT

THE TRANSGRESSION OF THE HIPSTER

We are living the Chinese curse. Our times are indeed interesting.

On the one hand, our insane rulers are hell-bound and determined to rid the earth of ‘bikies’ by whatever means necessary, including the destruction of the Rule of Law, the manifold burdens of proof that prevent the government happily jailing people it doesn’t like, and that bane of police departments everywhere – actual evidence of criminal activity.

On the other hand, strange-looking people are adopting the motorcycle –not so much as a lifestyle choice, but as some kind of fashion-accessorycum-hobby.

I am not surprised.

We live in a time when virtually all social taboos are freely and joyously broken.

Girls tattoo their necks and hands, beards are grown by slim-hipped men who collect cats and handbags, and we are utterly indifferent to being governed by gypsies, tramps and thieves.

And the Hipster walks among us. And occasionally rides.

Unmolested, apparently, and thus free to dilute and pervert all that was once pure and righteous – and earned with blood, pain and commitment.

It was only a matter of time before the vile Hipster turned his attention to my beloved motorcycling, spread wide its exclusive little hams with his freshly

tattooed fingers, and jammed his horrid phallus deep into its hitherto private parts.

Predictably, these facile trendsetters understand motorcycling about as much as they understand the meaning of the lovely little bluebird tattoo they might have put on their scrawny necks – which is to say, not at all.

To them it’s all about “fashion, music, food and of course, bikes”, which is how a Sydney event called Throttle Roll described itself to some odious online rubbish that passes for a newspaper these days.

And here I am, thinking that motorcycling was all about riding – the visceral thrill of speed, the precision of cornering, the vagaries of the weather, the trials of distance, the thrill of new roads, the comradeship of good men and true, etc.

Fashion? Fashion is something my wife is vaguely concerned about, and a concept entirely alien to me.

Music? Music is great, and if there happens to be a jukebox in a country pub I’m in, then that is a bonus –especially if I’m drunk and there are Johnny Cash songs on it.

Food? Well, sure. I like food. But I’d rather ride than eat and there have been many times in my youth when I bought tyres instead of groceries.

None of these things have anything to do with motorcycling. They never have and never will. They can’t. They don’t fit.

But, somehow, they fit the Hipster’s vacuous interpretation of what motorcycling is.

So he feeds his new fad by geysering cash at clever businesses specifically designed to accept his dollars. In return for which he is sold vastly over-priced ancient Jap shitters that have been fitted with aluminium tanks, tyres made from bathroom tiles, and bicycle mirrors. Hell, I wish I’d thought of that money-printing enterprise. Some motorcycle manufacturers

have also jumped on the bandwagon –and more power to them. They are in the business of selling bikes, and they’ll sell those bikes to whomever has the money. Though I struggle to understand why the industry imagines that people who buy decrepit old Japanese shitters and ride them to a café that specialises in ethically-sourced chai, would suddenly decide the latest S1000XR is the bike for them.

But if the motorcycle market is suddenly filled with bearded mincers in checked shirts, rolled-up jeans and a penchant for rock-a-billy music, then I guess their money spends as well as anyone else’s.

What’s that you say?

So what if these folks are buying bikes and getting their handlebars on. Surely more people on bikes is a good thing. You think so?

We’ve had heaps of so-called “newbies” take up bikes in the last decade or so, egged on by the LAM scheme and a vague feeling that this motorcycle business is something they would like to try. Or even worse, doddery old fools making a comeback to riding after 30 years on the bench.

How’s that worked out?

That’s right, accident stats through the roof and hospital wards full of agony.

And a vast herd of mugwumps on bikes, who are too scared to lane-split, think that wearing fluoro is a substitute for skill (and that it actually works by aiding visibility when peer-reviewed scientific studies repeatedly demonstrate that it doesn’t), blame speed for all our ills, chant “All The Gear All The Time” like it means something, and devolve any responsibility for what happens to them on the roads to “other factors” (like the inane SMIDSY bullshit), rather than their own incompetence.

That being so, I struggle to see what benefit motorcycling will derive from accepting a bunch of fuzzy, inner-city, out-for-a-groove fashionistas on shitty old bikes into its bosom.

Yes, and you can get off my bloody lawn, too. 

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