Australian Motorcyclist Issue #31

at up to $42,698.90 (depending on major prize winner’s point of departure). Prizes drawn at 12pm on 20/11/2015 at Salmat Digital Pty Ltd, L2, 116 Miller St, Nth Sydney NSW 2060. The winners will be notified by phone and email by 22/11/2015 and published in The Australian newspaper on 25/11/2015 and on the competition website. *Car hire is subject to the terms and conditions specified by the car hire provider. **Participants must be 25yrs+ and hold a valid Au driver’s licence. +An Eligible Shannons Club Member is a Shannons Club member who has created a member profile, uploaded a profile image and images of an enthusiast vehicle and an ultimate vehicle at shannons. com.au/club. ^New Shannons Motor Insurance or Shannons Home & Contents insurance quotes/sales only (renewals and CTP quotes/sales ineligible). Limit 1 quote per vehicle or insured address. Permits: ACT TP 15/06441, NSW LTPS/15/04993, SA T15/1128. Full competition terms and conditions at shannons.com.au/forza.

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“I CANNOT SING THE OLD SONGS NOW! IT IS NOT THAT I DEEM THEM LOW; ‘TIS THAT I CAN’T REMEMBER HOW THEY GO. CHANGED, CS CALVERLEY

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CONTENTS SPECIAL FEATURE HOT HATS You really need to know this; trust us

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TESTING BMW R 1200 RS One of the most famous badges returns DUCATI 1299 PANIGALE Blow ‘em into the weeds with this

TRAVELLING

READERS’ TRAVELS – FOUR CORNERS An old dare, a terrific response READERS’ TRAVELS – TAMBORA Climbing a volcano, alone and by bike!

READERS’ TRAVELS – CANADA & USA There’s a lot to see, and you can see it all READERS’ TRAVELS – SOUTHERN TABLELANDS So close to Sydney but a different world READERS’ TRAVELS – SOUTHERN INDIA Go ride an Enfield with your dad READERS’ TRAVELS – ESCAPE FROM COLDITZ The way they were: POW VIPs

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‘THE’ TOP PUB. PAGE 78

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www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au

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The Apex of Performance Advanced 205hp engine. Light weight of 166.5kg (dry). The 1299 Panigale has become a new benchmark.

2015 Ducati Superbike family:

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CONTENTS

PUB OF THE MONTH Rolling ‘round to Ravenshoe TOP TOURS ‘Tis the time to plan your travels

TEAR-OUT MAPS ROAD RIDE MAP Get out of Sydney

ADVENTURE TIME MAP Another side to The Rock

EVENTS

BEAR ARMY NORTHERN MANOEUVRES This is the kind of army we like!

THROTTLE ROLL Hipsters plus bikes – woo hoo, what a day

TECHNICAL

LONG TERM TEST BIKES There’s always something happening in the garage USED & REVIEWED Terminator approved

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EDITORIAL How’s the Big Fella going with these?

NEWS All the news that’s fit to print IN THE SHOPS Get your wallet ready… and go!

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AND THE REST

GRIZZLING Bits and pieces, bits of pieces…

MORE HELMET’S THAN AN ARMY. PAGE 67

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Australian Motorcyclist Magazine

Australian Motorcyclist Magazine

@AusMotrCyclist

PLEASE ENJOY AUSTRALIAN MOTORCYCLIST MAGAZINE RESPONSIBLY AND ADD THIS ISSUE TO YOUR COLLECTION. ALL BACK ISSUES ARE STILL AVAILABLE; JUST VISIT THE WEBSITE WWW.AUSMOTORCYCLIST. COM.AU OR DROP US A LINE TO CONTACTUS@AUSMOTORCYCLIST.COM.AU. AND HAVE FUN. 6

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EDITOR SPEAKS what’s he blabbing on about now?

Editor Stuart Woodbury Editor Emeritus J Peter Thoeming Sales Manager Terri Dodd advertise@ausmotorcyclist.com.au Designer Amy Hale Photo Editor Nick Wood Photographers Cain Maitland, Nick Wood Contributors Emma Ayres, Elspeth Callender, Robert Crick, Joern Delfs, Phil Duncan, Mike Grant, Jim Green, Tony Hill, Robert Lovas, Phil Gadd, Ryan Lucas, Lester Morris, Brendan Nelson, The Possum, Dimitra Schonekas, Guy Stanford, Stuart Strickland, Michael Walley, Colin Whelan Editorial contactus@ausmotorcyclist.com.au Subscription enquiries www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au info@ausmotorcyclist.com.au 0412 220 680 or 0418 421 322 Printer Distributor Network Services Australian Motorcyclist Magazine is published by Australian Motorcyclist Magazine Pty Ltd. PO Box 2066, Boronia Park NSW 2111 Phone 0412 220 680 or 0418 421 322.

This publication is copyright. Other than for the purposes of research, study, criticism, review, parody or satire and subject to the conditions prescribed under the Copyright Act 1968, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted without the prior written permission of Australian Motorcyclist Magazine Pty Ltd. Opinions expressed within this publication do not necessarily represent those of Australian Motorcyclist Magazine Pty Ltd. No responsibility is accepted by Australian Motorcyclist Magazine Pty Ltd or the editor for the accuracy of any statement, opinion or advice contained in the text or advertisements. Readers should rely on their own enquiries in making decisions tailored to their own interest. *Recommended retail price Copyright © Australian Motorcyclist Magazine Pty Ltd ACN 161 432 506 ISSN 2201-5442

We encourage you to keep or recycle this magazine.

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H

ave you ever had that rumbling in your guts (no, not because of food!) that put you on notice that something just wasn’t right? When you know that failing to deal with what is occurring will end in disaster? Well, I’ve had just this experience recently, and believe me, the statement “trust your gut instinct” has never been more appropriate.

How does this relate to motorcycling? Well, you know when you barrel into that corner and you know that something isn’t feeling right, or you’ve taken the wrong line and you have that, “oh, shit” moment? This is the time to really trust what your instincts are telling you and not “go with the flow” and wait for something to go dramatically wrong. Act on it as early as you can and there’s a good chance you’ll come out the other side intact. It’s when you don’t trust your gut instinct that hindsight becomes such a wonderful thing – if you’re still around to tell the story, that is.

I won’t reflect on hindsight, because after a crash most people will try to justify what they were doing to make themselves feel better – I’ve done it myself. It’s not until you really face up to the facts that you realise you just stuffed up. This is especially important because you will then be able to learn from it and improve.

What did I do? In a corner that required a bit of restraint, I got on the power instead.

Fortunately I realised what I’d done and managed to recover.

Phew. Lesson learnt.

Now, our cover image and opening shot of the

Ducati Multistrada 1200 DVT story in the most recent issue has drawn praise from many of you. A lot of people are asking where we took the shot. If I told you, I’d have to kill you!

No, it is Mt Banks, which you can get to via the Bells Line of Road out of Sydney towards Lithgow. An amazing spot to admire the stunning scenery, or take some pictures of yourself and your bike. The road into Mt Banks itself is not very long, maybe one kilometre in total and the good bit, around Mt Banks itself is blocked with a gate. You can walk, which takes around an hour or so (from memory).

Where we took the shot is not far from the locked gate. Go there and you’ll find it for yourself.

We do get to ride just about all of the latest and greatest here at AMM, but Alana and I have just purchased our long term Yamaha MT-07 to keep.

This is the first time I have personally bought any bike we’ve had as a long termer, or even tested. To me, this speaks volumes to just how good the MT-07 is from an experienced rider’s perspective - and also a learner’s perspective, which is Alana’s. We will probably keep it until Alana is on her full licence and then look at something else, but you never know, we might just keep it much longer than that. You’ll continue to see the MT-07 within the long termer pages, we’re not finished with it yet!

Cheers, Stuart.

www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au

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145hp 106Nm 209kg

ALL NEW

Suzuki GSX-S1000

SMC505-AMM-GSXS 210x297.indd 1

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FROM THE BEAR

GRIZZLING Gotta love the Italians! Even in church they get their coffee – or is this a church dedicated to the patron saint of the brown brew?

JUST DRINK IT

I

was checking some details of changing flights at Heathrow airport recently (or, to be honest, desperately trying to work out what I could do in my 6 hour+ layover) when I chanced upon this note about duty free/tax free allowances.

“Although there are no limits on the amount of alcohol and tobacco you can bring in from the EU, a Customs Officer is more likely to ask about the purposes for which you hold the goods if you bring large quantities of them. This will most likely be the case if you appear at the airport with more than [among other things]: 110 litres of beer.”

Unless my maths is even worse than I thought it was, that’s better than 146 bottles, the old-fashioned 750 long necks. More than a dozen cases. Which airline is going to allow you to take that amount of “luggage”, and how are you going to transport it? The trolley that will hold that much brew has not yet been developed, I suspect…

IT’S ENOUGH…

…to give you the screaming abdabs, as a mate of mine used to say before he took his rifle and dog and retired to the hills behind Merimbula.

We now have bike shops closing in Queensland because the pathetic socalled anti-bikie laws and the official harassment that goes with them is putting people off motorcycling. Folks, motorcycles are good for traffic, the environment and stress levels.

Can we get someone with an ounce of sense to set the authorities straight on

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this? How can they continue to damage a useful and enjoyable recreation without justification?

You think I’m blowing this up beyond its real effect? If the closure of shops is not enough, you might note that we are actually hearing of people who simply won’t go to Queensland on their bikes any more. That has to translate to a reduction in sales for petrol stations,

interview recently said that the City of Melbourne was moving to get motorbikes off footpaths.

This should not have been unexpected.

At a recent Future Melbourne Council

Outsourcing the bike customising work to India led to some unexpected results

Is this the future for Queensland?

No entry - for motorcyclists?

(Photo Colin Whelan) motels, campgrounds – you name it.

And it’s all so pointless. We are not part of the problem; we are part of the solution to so many problems!

HERE WE GO AGAIN

Melburnian readers, beware. It seems that footpath parking is under attack once again. Apparently Cr Stephen Mayne in an ABC Radio

meeting, late “amendments” were proposed for the Motorcycle plan, one of these being to “examine” every foot path in Melbourne and see if they are suitable for motorcycle parking. Why is this necessary? Because it seems that preventing motorcycle parking on the pavement is on the City of Melbourne’s agenda - again. Stephen Mayne’s interview seems to be further confirmation of this, according to Steve Bardsley.

When will they ever learn?

Peter ‘The Bear’ Thoeming

www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au

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www.touratech.com.au

JUST ENJOY THE ADVENTURE

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Touratech - made for adventure!

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Ph: (03) 5729 5529 www.touratech.com.au AMM_September_layout.indd 11

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NEWS

DO IT YOURSELF

THUNDER ON TO NUNDLE 34th DOCNSW Thunder Rally ep, it’s that time of year to get yourself and your mates ready for the Ducati Owners Club of NSW Thunder Rally. The details are - When - October 30/31/1st Nov, Where Sheba Dams Recreation Area (Nundle, 40k south of Tamworth). There are some excellent raffle prizes, including vouchers for bike gear and more to be won! Now in its 34th year and supporting the Royal Rehabilitation Centre, Spinal and Brain Injury Unit this is a great rally to get along to.

And, if you’ve never been to a rally before, this is just the event to dip your toes into the water. All types of bikes and riders are welcome. There is a “non-attendance option” for those who still want to support the Centre and get their badge, T-shirt etc, but just can’t get there.

Phone enquiries, call President Vinnie Buck 0412 366 781 or Aunty Mal 0404 002 427 or visit the website www.docnsw.org.au

Y

X MARKS THE SPOT Triumph Rocket III X Triumph Australia has confirmed that

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our market has received some 20 of the 500 Rocket III X produced worldwide. They’re priced at $23,490 plus on roads and we suggest you rush to your local Triumph dealer to secure one for yourself. Being such a limited production, this could be a bike that increases in value over the coming years!

STRADDLE THE STRADALE MV Agusta Stradale 800 The all new MV Agusta Stradale 800 has now arrived in Australia and has

commenced local deliveries. You don’t even need to decide between sport or touring, because with the Stradale 800 there’s no need for compromise.

See your local dealer or visit www. mvagusta.com.au

Greasers Workshop What happens when a corporate tattoo-junkie entrepreneur meets and falls in love with a Maori vintage motorcycle nut? They give birth to Adelaide’s first DIY collective motorcycle garage, that’s what!

Gerrard and Josephine have kickstarted a crowd-funding campaign to generate a cash injection to set up a new inner-city DIY garage where members have access to garage space, tools, training classes and loads more

to build that something special. Check out the website at www.greasersadelaide.com

WALK OF FAME INDUCTEES Route 66 Tours Four inductees have been selected for inclusion in the 2015 Route 66 Walk of Fame ceremony during the Best of the West on 66 Festival scheduled for September 25-27. Conceived as a means to honour the individuals who played a role in transforming this storied highway into an icon, the walk of fame was unveiled during the Route 66 International Festival in 2014. The inductees this year are Zdnek and Eva Jurasek, Dries and Marion Bessels, Aussie Route 66 Tours’ Dale and Kristi-Anne Butel, and Jerry McClanahan. Dale and Kristi-Anne are

www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au

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NEWS

amazing this trip will be. Book now! www.paradisemotorcycletours.co.nz or Ph: +64 9473 9404.

HIGH AND MIGHTY

over the moon for their selection, so if you want to see Route 66, they are the ones to go with! Visit their website www.route66tours.com.au

DIB, DIB, DIB; DOB, DOB, DOB Indian ‘Black Bullet’ Scout Give yourself a shot of some Scout with this beautiful custom Indian Scout was built by Jeb Scolman – the same hot-rod artisan responsible for the Spirit of Munro that was built to celebrate the launch of the ThunderStroke111 in 2014. As beautiful as it is, it is nevertheless to see the salt. It was built to race and continue the tradition of an Indian Scout ripping across the Bonneville Salt Flats. We can’t wait to see that!

EXCELLENT Ducati Museum awarded Certificate of Excellence

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For the fourth year running the Ducati Museum has been awarded the TripAdvisor Certificate of Excellence, a prestigious acknowledgment given to tourist facilities and attractions which are consistently given excellent reviews on the world’s largest travel website. Info on visiting the museum can be found at www.ducati.com.au/ company/visit_us/index.do

Maschine High Country NSW Ride The NSW High Country is renowned for its fantastic riding terrain, and it will set the stage for a great week’s adventure riding with the awesome crew from Maschine, from 8-13 November 2015. The alpine stage rewards riders with stunning vistas from the high ground and challenging riding through the valleys. On to the south coast stage where deep forest, deep soil and deep challenges (it’s deep, man!) will supply a happy ending. This is a fully supported ride

THE WAY WE ROLL! Paradise Motorcycle Tours NZ The tour of the year is on again in 2016! The AMM Hiamo Tour of the South Island, New Zealand, will roll with the awesome crew at Paradise Motorcycle Tours NZ. Do not miss this trip of a lifetime and the delightful company of Stuart who will be coming along to enjoy it with you! Running from the 26th Jan to 6th Feb 2016, this 11 day tour will knock your socks off. Words simply cannot describe how

with a crew of technical, tyre and medical support following riders day and night.

Bookings for the High Country ride are open now! Subscribe for event updates at www.maschine.com.au or call for more information – Trudi on 0414 844 984 or Nick on 0428 023 057. 

www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au

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Rooted in a rich and unrivaled past, this new model carries the legendary Indian® Scout™ name into the future in authentic Indian Motorcycle® style. Like its iconic forerunner, the all-new Indian® Scout™ is an innovative and aesthetically stunning American cruiser powered by a liquid cooled 100HP V-twin engine offering exceptional power and handling. Designed with the DNA of motorcycling’s most famous and coveted bike, the legend is back with the new Indian® Scout™.

Indianmotorcycle.com.au | P: 1300 00 INDIAN | *Overseas Model Shown.**Facebook® is a registered trademark of Facebook Inc

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BIKE LAUNCH

Stuart is wearing a Shark Speed R II Carbon helmet, BMW Streetguard jacket, Ixon Pro Contest HP 2 gloves, Draggin jeans and Sidi Vertigo boots.

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www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au

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BMW R 1200 RS Riding Spirit is alive and well WORDS Stuart Woodbury PHOTOS Keith Muir

“PICKING UP ON THE SYMMETRICAL ASPECT OF THE HEADLIGHTS TAKES SOME TIME, BECAUSE YOU MOSTLY FOCUS ON THE INTERNAL ASYMMETRICAL REFLECTORS”

www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au

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BIKE LAUNCH

O

ne of the classic bike designs that still draws a crowd whenever one shows up is the BMW R 100 RS. After the failed R 1200 ST with its hideous headlight arrangement, BMW really hasn’t had a (boxer) sports-style tourer in its range. But the BMW sports tourer badge is back and looking damn fine.

The new R 1200 RS with that world famous “RS” logo drew much praise when the images of it were bandied around a few months ago, and now we have attended the Australian launch to see what it’s like on the road.

It is based on the recently released R 1200 R; the bikes share the frame, engine and suspension, with the RS having a different (more sporty) setting for the ESA (electronic suspension adjustment). The R makes an excellent platform to start with.

Visually, the R and the RS are totally different machines, and the two major differences you’ll notice while riding is the wind protection from the half-fairing and larger screen, and the more forward bars. These place weight on your wrists, unlike the R which is much more relaxing. I prefer the R for the road, although the extra weight on the wrists of the RS will suit those looking for a somewhat sportier feel - the RS is bang on the money. If you’ve ridden or sat on a Honda VFR800, the amount of weight on your wrists is similar.

A lot of S 1000 RR inspiration is built into the RS, with the symmetrical headlight shells with asymmetrical internals. Picking up on the symmetrical design of the headlights actually takes some time, because you mostly focus on the asymmetrical internal reflectors.

Protection from the half-fairing is good, directing just enough wind away from the thighs and lower body. The two position, manually adjustable screen worked best for me on the highest setting, irrespective of where it was on either of the additional two settings that require you to move the screen up or down via the mounting bolts. In effect you have four positions available to you.

The engine is the same as the R’s – the water-cooled 1170cc Boxer, with the lighter flywheel now fitted to this type of

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www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au

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JUST TWO RULES 1. Don’t Fall Off the Motorcycle.

2. Don’t Get Eaten by a Bear.

Our friend Art Snyder came up with those “rules” years ago and we’ve used them ever since to welcome riders to every guided tour. Remember them and you’ll have a great time!

you hidden gems and personal glimpses into Americana that you would likely never discover on your own.

Let GAMCT show you a great way to take a FANTASTIC ride with old friends, make new friends, enjoy the sights, sounds and camaraderie of the journey. All while you relax, enjoy the ride and have loads of fun.with no worries about the details.

A Guided Tour may not be for everyone, so most of our guided tours - and many others, including custom routes - can be taken as self-guided motorcycle tours or Road Trip auto tours for non-riding friends or family. Motorcycles and sports cars (or even something family friendly) can make a great combination.

Every day, you’ll be on the best motorcycle roads we can find.

We’ll take you to the famous places you’ve heard of and show

And about the rules - you really don’t need to worry about #2.

But if you’re lucky you’ll SEE some bears - we often do!

2016 Guided Tour Schedule Guided Tour

Starting

Ending

Highlights

Bears

Route 66 14 Ride Days / 4,025 km

3 June Chicago, IL

18 June Los Angeles, CA

This ribbon of highway carries more American Legend than Maybe any other pathway across this great nation.

Glacier NP / Canada 14 Ride Days / 3,560 km

22 June Seattle, WA

7 July Seattle, WA

Wonderful roads for motorcycling, incredible scenery. Meet your new Canadian friends at the Calgary Stampede!

YES

Pacific Coast - North 7 Ride Days / 1,930 km

8 July Seattle, WA

16 July San Francisco, CA

Ride from sea level to 2,000 m elevation. Rugged coastline, whales and the tallest trees on earth.

YES

Pacific Coast - South 7 Ride Days / 2,157 km

16 July San Francisco, CA

24 July Los Angeles, CA

Not just Coast! Explore the grandeur of Yosemite, Kings Canyon and Sequoia National Parks too.

YES

Sturgis Bike Week 12 Ride Days / 3,540 km

4 August Las Vegas, NV

17 August Denver, CO

A “bucket list” event! Yellowstone, Grand Teton and Rocky Mountain National Parks just happen to be along the way.

YES

Best of the West 14 Ride Days / 4,510 km

20 August Los Angeles, CA

4 September Los Angeles, CA

TEN National Parks and the Pacific Coast make this just about the most fantastic trip you can imagine - on a bike!

YES

Coast to Coast USA 21 Ride Days / 7,250 km

9 September Los Angeles, CA

1 October Washington, DC

We can’t show you all of it, but you’ll see as much of the USA as possible in three weeks. This is a Rider’s dream!

YES

Route 66 Extended 17 Ride Days / 4,520 km

14 October Chicago, IL

4 November Los Angeles, CA

Everything that makes Route 66 one of our most popular Maybe tours, plus two nights in Las Vegas and one in Death Valley.

Reserve any 2016 Guided Tour before 15 November and get the 2015 Price.

Visit our website for complete information and pricing

Great American Touring

www.gamct.com

800.727.3390 0011.1.440.349.1201 Int’l

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BIKE LAUNCH

engine. Only the RT has a heavier 750 gram flywheel for a more relaxing ride.

Rain, Road Dynamic and User riding modes come standard on the RS. In fact, the RS is feature packed as standard. You get Dynamic ESA; the “Comfort Package” which includes heated grips, tyre pressure control, a chrome exhaust and cruise control; and the “Dynamic Package 1” which includes DTC, daytime running light, headlight pro, riding mode pro and white LED indicators. If you opt to

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“ALTHOUGH THE EXTRA WEIGHT ON THE WRISTS OF THE RS WILL SUIT THOSE LOOKING FOR A SOMEWHAT SPORTIER FEEL – THE RS IS BANG ON THE MONEY” buy the RS Exclusive, you also get the “Style 2” pack, which includes the Pure brushed aluminium tank cover and engine spoiler.

If you want to make the RS the ultimate sports tourer, you must get gear shift assist pro, for clutchless up and down shifting – it is such a delight to use! And, to make things easy while out touring, Keyless ride is a great thing to have, too. This involves a key fob which you put into your jacket for push button ignition and a keyless fuel cap.

Apart from the other extensive range of BMW accessories you can purchase for the RS, the accessory Touring

www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au

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It’s not where you’re going ...

It’s how you get there.

The modular luggage system for all motorcycles.

VENTURA is available from your favourite motorcycle store. For more information about VENTURA products visit www.kenma.com.au email: sales@kenma.com.au or if you are in QLD, NSW, ACT, VIC, NT, SA or WA phone 02 9484 0777, Tasmanians phone 03 6339 2770.

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www.kenma.com.au

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BIKE LAUNCH

SPECS

BMW R 1200 RS AND RS EXCLUSIVE

Four seats – four times the comfort.

There’s just something about an RS badge on a motorcycle!

for the RS, the accessory Touring package ($600) would be handy for touring (umm, obviously) and depending on how tall or short you are, the higher Sport seat (840mm), or Low seat (790mm) would be good to have.

Either of these is a no cost option at the time of purchase. If the Low seat is not low enough, you can get the Extra Low seat, which takes you down to 760mm. You do need to purchase the low suspension option to have this fitted.

The pillion is not left out either. You can stay with the thicker standard seat, or look at the Sport accessory seat. It all depends on how tough those buns are! Or if you’re not going to have a pillion, getting the sportier look with its lower profile makes the RS style flow just nicely.

As I mentioned, Dynamic ESA (electronic suspension adjustment) comes standard. You’ll see this by the gold fork tubes. Apart from setting the

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Four adjustments – for lots of protection.

spring preload, you have two settings to change on the fly – Road and Dynamic. I found Dynamic a little too hard on all but the smoothest of roads, but Road was the perfect mix between comfort and sport for the type of rider who might like to ride a bit more swiftly on this model.

As with the R, the new generation TFT instrument panel is featured on the RS. You change the style displayed to you: I liked the display that showed all the information on what was happening with the bike. A couple of others on the launch preferred the style which shows a larger digital speed, but I like to see what is going on; and you have the analogue speedo anyway.

So that famous “RS” badge is back and the R 1200 RS is a bike that looks suave and performs in the same manner. We understand there are plenty of orders already, so get to your dealer to secure your preference – the standard RS, or the RS Exclusive! 

PRICE: $22,950 & 23,250 (plus on-road charges) WARRANTY: Two years, unlimited distance SERVICING INTERVALS: Every 10,000km or 12 months ENGINE: Liquid/air-cooled boxer twin cylinder, 4-stroke, DOHC, 4 valves per cylinder BORE x STROKE: 92 x 125mm DISPLACEMENT: 1170cc COMPRESSION: 12.5:1 POWER: 92kW @ 7750rpm TORQUE: 125Nm @ 6500rpm TRANSMISSION: 6-speed, wet multi-plate clutch, shaft final drive SUSPENSION: Front, 45mm inverted fork, Dynamic ESA adjustable, travel 140mm. Rear, monoshock, Dynamic ESA adjustable, travel 140mm.

DIMENSIONS: Seat height 820mm, weight 236kg (wet), fuel capacity 18 litres, wheelbase 1530mm TYRES: Front, 120/70/ZR17.

Rear, 180/55/ZR17 FRAME: Tubular steel BRAKES: Front, twin 320mm discs with four-piston switchable ABS calipers. Rear, 276mm disc, dual-piston switchable ABS caliper.

FUEL CONSUMPTION: N/A THEORETICAL RANGE: N/A COLOURS: Lupin Blue Metallic, Granite Grey Metallic Matt VERDICT: RIP SNORTER!

www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au

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Engineered with the high-tech functionality of

Jacket Hakuna Art. 6821 Pants Matata Art. 6861 Glove Sambia Art. 2163

5

es 10 tim

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since 1946

Freezer II · Art. 2470 GORE-TEX® Glove

Air n Dry · Art. 2242 GORE-TEX® Glove

www.heldaustralia.com.au AMM_September_layout.indd 23

Sambia · Art. 2163 Enduro Glove

Shaku · Art. 8080 Touring boot

Email: info@heldaustralia.com.au

6/08/2015 8:02 pm

READERS’ RIDE

FOUR CORNERS

AN OLD CHALLENGE IS FINALLY MET Hi Bear, Sometimes dreams take a long time to fulfil. In the ’80s I was inspired by a competition run in your old Bike Australia magazine. The challenge was to visit all the extremities of the Australian mainland in 12 months. Denman WA, Wilson Promontory Vic, Cape Byron NSW and Cape York Qld. As I remember, competitors had to send in photos of themselves and their bike at each point and evidence that they owned the bike. There were some who achieved it. Time and resource denied me at that time and it remained a dream until now.

I know it is 30 years late but I am pleased to write and tell you that I have completed the challenge. I started on the 8 September last year riding a 2010 1400 GTR to visit the West, South and Eastern points and then purchased a 2012 Triumph Explorer to complete the most challenging of the four, Cape York in the North, last week.

Robyn my faithful travelling companion pillioned to all four points with me. I am guessing that there is only a limited number of people who have done Cape York two up. Most of our work colleagues just don’t understand but I am delighted to add this to our motorcycling achievements. I don’t think there was any prize at the time and I am happy to accept the same reward now. Just being able to write and tell you is buzz enough.

Thank you for the inspiration.

Peter Hopper Bear Army #10

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PS I wonder if any of those guys who did do this in the 80’s are still riding and reading your mags? It would have been a lot tougher 30 years ago.

Well done, Peter, and thank you for letting me know about your feat. There is no doubt that the Bear Army is made up of a special bunch of people.

That’s an interesting suggestion, too – were you a reader of the now near-legendary Bike Australia?

Drop me a line! – The Bear

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3/08/2015 12:24 pm

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READERS’ RIDE

Eleven hundred metres up the side of the volcano, with a red-hot clutch and the mists closing in…

TRUMPED BY TAMBORA – AGAIN! SUMBAWA, INDONESIA, HAS AN UNUSUAL BIKE DESTINATION… WORDS/PHOTOS STEVE CAMPBELL

A

t around 1100 metres my clutch threw in the towel. A fistful of throttle saw nothing happening at the back wheel. I dismounted and spat on the clutch housing; it was like throwing water onto a hot barbeque plate.

What to do? I was stopped at the bottom of what was possibly the steepest stretch yet - maybe 100 metres of humps and bumps, interlaced with holes deep enough to hide an axe murderer’s handiwork. Fifteen kilometres along the track up the south-west side of the Mt Tambora massif; fifteen kilometres from help should I need it. And to get back down I still had to traverse two very steep and dangerous crossings of a dry river bed.

And so, probably six kilometres short of my destination - Post 3 at 1800 metres - I had a decision to make.

Wait an hour, or so, and then press on, or head back towards what might turn out to be a very nasty encounter with the river crossing, one which might leave me stranded anyway. I found the answer in my sweat saturated shirt.

Wet from exertion? No, wet from stress!

I had to admit defeat and turn back.

I took a drink, removed my riding gear and sat down to wait. I consoled myself with the fact that I had already climbed Tambora in 2008. I’d stood on the crater rim, stared into the abyss and then raised my eyes to scan the opposite rim, six and a half kilometres

distant. Nearly 200 years before ex-heavyweight champ Muhammed Ali, Tambora had also ‘shook up the world’.

Ali could bang hard but Tambora out-gunned him. On April 15, 1815 an almighty explosion catapulted 150 cubic kilometres of its innards four kilometres skywards. This cataclysmic event obliterated the Tambora civilisation, whilst, in the Northern Hemisphere, 1816 became known as ‘the year without summer.’ Crops failed and famine stalked the land with a terrible tenacity.

I sat, high on Tambora’s flank and watched warily as the weather began to close in. An eerie mist crept up from below, enveloping me in its wraith-like

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READERS’ RIDE

1 embrace. I might have been the last being on earth, so complete was the silence. I realised that even if I had made it to the top, I would not be able to see much anyway. Convincing myself of this went some way towards assuaging my disappointment at again having failed to reach Post 3. In 2014, I’d made it seven kilometres along the track; this time I’d managed fifteen.

Third time lucky maybe?

My thoughts turned to the job at hand. Two major obstacles lay between me and safety - the dry river crossings.

Even if my clutch held up, there was still the possibility that I might take the wrong line, or drop the bike. If I lost momentum it might well be nigh on impossible to ascend the steep bank from a standing start. Without extra willing hands to give me a push from behind in the sandy going, I could well find myself marooned a long way from help. Such a scenario didn’t bear thinking about. It was a bridge I’d cross when, and if, I came to it.

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2 I looked at my watch. An hour had passed. I could rest my hand on the clutch housing. It was time to go. I turned around on the narrow track, the mist swirling around me. I set off, taking it very slowly. I tried to pick the line furthest away from the deep holes

1.A lot of the track looked pretty good…

2. …but some of it certainly didn’t. that waited to entrap me although, with the twists and turns of the track, this

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READERS’ RIDE

was not easy to do. I managed to stay upright, often using my feet as outriggers. The track was slippery and many of its ridges were not much wider than a tyre. Ten minutes passed. The clutch was holding up; so far, so good.

I reached the first river crossing and stopped. It was the easier of the two so, with the axiom: ‘He who hesitates is lost’, front and centre, I plunged downwards. It was like entering a tunnel. Little light penetrated the heavy foliage above. Fearful of a front wheel washout in deep sand, I went down under heavy rear braking, primed to gun the motor just before the track levelled out. With eyes the size of dinner plates, I tore up the incline and made it out of danger. Post 2, and a break, was only ten minutes away.

The second river crossing was the more problematic. If I could just make it onto the large flat rock, two-thirds of the way up the far bank, I felt I would be ok.

I mounted the bike and set off. When I reached the crossing I didn’t hesitate.

Down I went, into the gloom. I gunned the engine just before the river bed and, bucking and rolling, rear tyre clawing at the sand, I powered up before starting to lose momentum. Just when I thought all was lost, the flat rock appeared. My back wheel found traction and slingshot me upwards with enough force to get me to the top of the rise. I was a lather of sweat and it wasn’t a hot day!

I reached the road without incident and made for Hu’u beach, about two hours away, south-west of Dompu; a convenient spot to lick my wounds. My old friend, Robbie at Monalisa, gave me a warm welcome. A shower, a shave and a good feed set me up for a decent night’s sleep and an appointment with the dream generator.

I awoke with the roosters, armed with a plan. I’d head for Maluk, 260 kms away on the south-west coast. I breezed past the Bugis fishing hamlet and took breakfast at Rasabau village. In and out of Dompu in a flash, I was soon into the sweeping bends that take you over the range and down onto the Soriuti Plain.

The countryside was green and bursting with fertility; a stark contrast to when I passed this way during 2014’s big dry.

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I sped along the valley floor and then started the next climb. To my left the road overlooked a patchwork of fields.

The harvest was in full swing and, where the verge allowed, a golden bounty of corn was spread out on tarpaulins to dry.

The north coast scenery is simply stunning. Jungle-clad hills caress the mangrove encrusted shoreline of Telok Salleh, its calm waters the perfect haven for the fishing fleet that depends of its bounty.

In places troops of long-tailed macaques patrolled the roadside, a white-chested sea eagle dined on the carcass of a fair-sized monitor rendered flat by a truck’s Michelins the road is rarely boring.

Around lunchtime, I pulled up at one of my favourite haunts: Warung Ikan Bakar, Telok Santong. I’d been stopping by for six years to dine on fresh fish barbequed over hot coals.

Served with a salad of cucumber, cabbage, coriander, a spicy sambal and a dish of soy sauce it was the perfect way to kick back and rest for an hour.

Known to every truck driver in Sumbawa, the business had flourished over the years. Ibu Baitiri, the enterprising owner, was born in Sumbawa of Javanese parents who had migrated in the 70s. Her father started farming and then producing roof tiles.

She’d set up business in 2008 with three little pavilions, their feet planted in the calm waters that lapped the shoreline of the inlet. Now there were fourteen pavilions and a staff of six.

Ibu Baitiri had four kids and proudly told me that her eldest was studying at university in Java. She was a hardworking woman and smart too. She didn’t go to market anymore. Instead, traders brought fish to her. Knowing that she only bought the best, they always brought the best so everyone was a winner.

After a slap-up meal and a pleasant conversation with a retired agricultural officer, I made my goodbyes and headed for my bike. While gearing up, I was approached by three young women who asked if it would be alright if they talked to me. Is the Pope from Argentina? They were English teachers

from the senior high school in Plampang, explained Kadarwati. Her colleagues, Cutradewi and Wulandani said that they rarely got a chance to meet a native English speaker. They had never seen a tourist in Plampang.

By late afternoon I’d made it beyond Sumbawa Besar via the by-pass. But the weather was closing in. Dark clouds, coming from the direction I was heading, massed on the horizon. The wind sprang up; large droplets were bouncing off my cheeks. It was time to look for shelter. I found an abandoned building, complete with veranda but, by the time I got in out of the rain, I was semi-soaked.

I donned my wet weather gear and pushed on. The rain sheeted down and a veil of gloom dropped over the road.

Most traffic had stopped but I battled on, for a while, until my engine began to run rough after being showered by water thrown up by a passing truck.

I took shelter again at a warung along with a dozen other riders. The rain hammered on the tin roof of the veranda; it was digging in. I had a decision to make. Maluk lay two hours away, with no guarantee that my engine would run smoothly in the drenching rain. The ferry home to Lombok was half an hour distant.

Taking the latter option would see me make landfall in the dark at Kayangan Harbour and I’d still have a two hour ride to get home. Of course if it was raining in Lombok my gamble would have failed. I decided to take a punt and turn for home.

My luck was in. Kayangan had seen some rain but it had stopped well before we docked. I coasted out the port gates and swept along the corniche that led to town.

After a two hour battle with the poorly adjusted headlights of on-coming traffic, I made it home at 9.30 after a fourteen hour day. I had to accept that I had failed for the second time to reach my goal. I’d covered 1000 kilometres in three days aboard my KLX150. I’d met some lovely people and seen some glorious scenery. I’d had an adventure and I’d survived it. Travel: it’s not only about the destination, it’s about the trip. 

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BIKE TEST

Stuart is wearing a Shoei NXR Cruise helmet, BMW Streetguard jacket, Ixon Pro Contest HP2 gloves, Draggin jeans and Sidi Vertigo boots.

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DUCATI 1299 PANIGALE INTO THE WEEDS… THAT’S WHERE THE OTHERS WILL END UP WORDS STUART WOODBURY PHOTOS NICK WOOD

I

remember my first ride on the 1199 Panigale when it was released a couple of years ago. I instantly loved the raw and aggressive nature of the new Superquadro powerplant. But riding it fast was another thing – it was an animal down low, but lacked some of the top end power of bikes like the S 1000 RR or ZX-10R. Ducati has fixed this with the introduction of the 1299 Panigale.

As the name suggests, engine capacity has been increased from 1198cc to 1285cc, and as you have guessed, power and torque increased significantly along with it. But it is the way this power and torque, helped along by the sophisticated electronics, are transferred to the rear wheel which makes the new 1299 Panigale so much faster than the outgoing 1199.

While we didn’t get to test the 1299 Panigale on the racetrack, as we have most of the other new litre sportsbikes in recent days, I could still feel the increase in top end power. The massive 116mm diameter pistons give the Superquadro engine a distinct beat at idle – one that gets many lookers. I can only imagine how heart pounding this engine would be with a more free-flowing exhaust!

So, it’s all good to have plenty of power and torque, but handling is a huge factor for any motorcycle. Ducati has improved the Panigale in this area also. The monocoque chassis now has a steering head angle of 24°, which gives faster turn in and overall more agility.

For improved rear traction, the fork pivot is 4 mm lower.

Electronics play a huge part in the way the 1299 gets its claimed 205hp to the ground.

You also have improved safety via Cornering ABS, which we recently tested on the new Multistrada.

Apart from Ducati Traction Control, Engine Brake Control and switchable ABS, which are carried over from the 1199, you also get Ducati Wheelie Control and Ducati Quick Shift – which works for up and down shifting.

When I rode the 1199, I found that the electronics were relatively invasive and made riding the bike a little rough at times. Ducati has obviously worked hard on smoothing out the way the electronics work on the 1299, because even with wheelie control on, the bike allows you to loft the front wheel ever so gently and hold it just off the ground. If you

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BIKE TEST

want to do massive wheelies, you’ll need to turn both it and the traction control off. But as we all know, this is a slower way to ride.

Cornering ABS does as it suggests. You can still switch the ABS settings to have ABS on the front only, if you like to back your bike into corners.

The up and down quick shifter fitted is one of the best I have ever used. I purposely tried to get the system to play up and give me a false neutral or go all silly with changing down, but it

34

laughed at me the entire time, working flawlessly. If for no other reason, you need to ride the 1299 just to experience how such a good system works. It not only makes riding more relaxing, but it makes your riding faster, which is what you want on a bike like this. When will this technology be fitted to sports tourers and the like? BMW has already started, and I assume Ducati and others are in the process of fine tuning their systems maybe even for next year’s bikes?

Traction control has also been

smoothed out on the 1299. It was too interactive before, whereas now it is gentler on the lesser settings, allowing a bit of wheelspin without shutting off and trying to chuck you over the bars.

Another new feature on the 1299 Panigale - and one that is available only on this bike - is the automatic calibration system for tyre size and final drive ratio.

Say you change your tyre brand or type from the standard (and excellent) Pirelli Supercorsa SP; the new tyre might have a different rolling diameter. Or if

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VISION-R SERIES 2

Panoramic Vision: 125% overall vertical and 110% horizontal larger openning compared to a standard field of vision Autoseal System: Visor positively seats agaist the gasket to ensure a perfect seal from water and the cold Rapid Antifog System: opening and locking the visor in an anti-mist position Lighter than series 1 Vision-R Series2 can be fitted with a Shark Bluetooth® system (as shown in the image)

Boosted by over 25 years of experience, the French brand Shark has become one of the world’s leading helmet makers.

Founded by former professional racers, Shark designs helmets that guarantee high levels of performance and safety and that exceed safety standards. SHARK’s ethos is always to push the technical boundaries and innovate so that each and every biker and racer can enjoy the sheer pleasure and freedom of riding in complete safety.

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AMM_September_layout.indd 35

YEARS WARRANTY

shark-helmets.com 30/07/2015 11:52 am

BIKE TEST

SPECS DUCATI 1299 PANIGALE

Thicker seat compliments your rear and is more grippy.

Feel the beat and feel the rhythm run through your body.

you change gearing – all you need to do is go into the DFT dashboard and set the automatic calibration system.

It will give you instructions of how to ride for a certain amount of distance for calibration. Then, once set, the electronics are calibrated to work at their best with the size of the particular tyre or the gearing fitted. An amazing piece of technology!

Styling is pretty much unchanged for the 1299 – and what a pretty looking motorcycle it is. However you do get new, grippier footpegs and a new grippier seat. The seat blocks some of

Marzoochi forks and Sachs rear shock work well on the road.

the heat, but you still feel quite a bit on the insides of your thighs while riding slowly.

Everywhere I rode the Ducati 1299 Panigale I got nods of approval and comments of how nice it looks, so why not be the envy of many and get your backside on the new 1299 Panigale?

It’s damn fast and good looking - and seeing that most men like their women like that, why not have your bike the same way? And not forgetting the girls: if you like a man who’s both powerful and stunning – here is your equivalent bike! 

PRICE: $27,990 (plus on-road charges) WARRANTY: Two years, unlimited distance SERVICING INTERVALS: Every 12,000km or 12 months ENGINE: Liquid-cooled L-twin cylinder, 4-stroke, Desmodromic, 4 valves per cylinder BORE x STROKE: 116 x 60.8mm DISPLACEMENT: 1285cc COMPRESSION: 12.6:1 POWER: 150.8kW @ 10,500rpm TORQUE: 144.6Nm @ 8750rpm TRANSMISSION: 6-speed, wet multi-plate slipper clutch, chain final drive SUSPENSION: Front, 50mm inverted fork, adjustable preload, compression and rebound, travel 120mm.

Rear, monoshock, adjustable preload, compression and rebound, travel 130mm.

DIMENSIONS: Seat height 830mm, weight 190.5kg (wet), fuel capacity 17 litres, wheelbase 1437mm TYRES: Front, 120/70/ZR17.

Rear, 200/55/ZR17 FRAME: Monocoque aluminum BRAKES: Front, twin 330mm discs with radial mount four-piston switchable ABS calipers. Rear, 245mm disc, dual-piston switchable ABS caliper.

FUEL CONSUMPTION: 8.42 litres per 100km, premium unleaded THEORETICAL RANGE: 201km COLOURS: Ducati Red with black wheel rims VERDICT: STYLE, SPEED AND SEX APPEAL

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22/07/2015 10:20:42 AM 30/07/2015 11:53 am

READERS’ RIDE

DUST OFF THE ’WING OH SAY CAN YOU SEE… AMERICA IN TEN DAYS? WORDS ALAN PAUL

“If you can fill the unforgiving minute / with sixty seconds’ worth of distance run…” wrote Rudyard Kipling, and Alan managed to fill ten days’ riding with an amazing amount of distance and experience… our hat is off to him.

A

fter flying from Perth to Canada, I dusted off my Goldwing GL1800, and with a couple of local friends headed off for ten of the best riding days of my life. Our route took us from Toronto to Toronto, by way of… but read on!

My mate John on his BMW K1200LT, his son Jeff on his Honda VFR 800 and I rode south in slow-moving heavy traffic to Niagara Falls, and crossed the Canada–USA border a short ride further on at Buffalo, New York. It wasn’t until we were about a half hour’s ride past the border that we were finally out of heavy traffic and able to relax. We stopped for a lunch break at the town of Hamburg.

Known as a “Showtown” in Erie County New York, Hamburg is a beautiful place with old stone buildings and street posts adorned with flower pots and American flags. As this was one of the first sunny spring days following a long and very cold winter, many locals were out cruising on bikes and in convertibles—some of them the old classic American V8’s.

We were then riding through beautiful farming country with vineyards and endless miles of corn fields. Typical farms in this area are prosperous, with large two-storey farmhouses, big red barns, post and rail fences, and the

38

look of well-manicured country clubs.

Almost all our riding was on winding hilly back roads, which adds to the time in the saddle but is by far the best way to see and appreciate the country.

Horse dung along the edge of the road told us that we were in Amish country.

The Amish people are descendants of settlers who fled religious persecution in Europe in the early eighteenth century to settle around here and to the north in Canada. They are known for simple living, plain dress, and a reluctance to adopt the conveniences of modern technology. They are respected and successful farmers.

Sure enough, we soon came upon some horse-drawn buggies. The buggies and horses are always black.

The people on board were dressed in traditional garb of long dresses and bonnets for the girls and women, and plain clothes, black hats, and beards for the men. Amish men are wellknown for their furniture making, and women for their baking and preserves.

At the end of our first day and a 400 km ride, we arrived in Du Bois, Pennsylvania. We all had hotel chain customer loyalty cards, which usually gave us good accommodation and continental breakfasts for around $50 to $80 per head. These cards are easily obtained at home, as many of the hotels belong to international chains.

Where possible, we preferred to stay in B&B’s—not just because they are generally $10 to $30 per head cheaper, but because staying in them is a great way to get to know the locals and learn more about the area. We found local

attractions that we would otherwise have missed and people are much friendlier when they see that you are interested in them and their towns.

The next day we rode further south in Pennsylvania to see Punxatawney Phil, the weather forecasting ground hog made famous in the comedy movie Ground Hog Day. Phil actually resides in a local zoo and is brought a few miles from town to a little hollow called Gobblers Knob every February 2nd.

Thousands of locals turn out before sunrise to enjoy the festivities around a roaring bonfire and to see Phil’s weather prediction. Apparently he has made appearances at the White House and on the Oprah Winfrey show.

From Punxatawney we headed further south for two hours, riding through the heavily forested Allegheny Mountains to visit the iconic house “Fallingwater”, designed in 1931 by Frank Lloyd Wright. Built on a waterfall, it’s a great attraction for architects, engineers, and designers the world over. As my riding pals are in the construction business, it was on the top of their list and both were greatly impressed.

Late that afternoon I had a serious reminder to be watching the roadsides, as I came within about a metre of a large wild dog that had run out from the forest.

Our stop for the night was near Farmington, where we stayed at historic Stone House Country Inn. When we arrived there was a country and western band playing in the parking lot to a large group—mainly bikers—who were enjoying a massive

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“THOUSANDS OF LOCALS TURN OUT BEFORE SUNRISE TO ENJOY THE FESTIVITIES AROUND A ROARING BONFIRE AND TO SEE PHIL’S WEATHER PREDICTION” barbecue of spare ribs, roast chickens, hot dogs, burgers, french fries and of course lots of beer. This hugely popular event takes place every day in the summer, and every Thursday is Bikers Day, when even more bikes roll in.

Here, as was the case in most places we rode, crash helmets and protective riding jackets give way to bandannas and tee shirts. As each bike left, the rider would give a big handful of throttle, much to the delight of the crowd.

After a large meal in the parking lot of delicious spare ribs and melted cheese-covered fries washed down with a “Bud”, we adjourned to the Inn for another beer. One of the handles on the bar for pulling beer was a converted Civil War pistol.

Our stay at Stone House Country Inn gave us a terrific insight into the history of this area. The following are a few notes from the book, Stone House Legends & Lore.

Well-known people who had something to do with this area include George Washington, Abraham Lincoln, Benjamin Franklin, Thomas Jefferson, Chief Blackhawk, and Davy Crockett—to name just a few. In later years it was a place of coal and timber barons, bootleggers, and wild mountain men. A very interesting character named Fannie Ross owned the Inn from the 1960s to the 1990s. She was a little Italian lady who reportedly carried a gun in her apron pocket. She could hold her own with the tough coal miners and lumberjacks. An ex-employee, when reminiscing about working for Fannie, said that Fannie had told her to stand her ground and “if anyone gets in your way, just shoot them!” Fannie had a couple of shootings (no fatalities) to her credit as a result of conflicts with customers in businesses she had owned previously.

I really enjoyed hearing stories from the locals, told in their delightful southern accents, although sometimes I had difficulty understanding them.

One “good ol’ boy” I spoke to at the bar who told me that he “races darts”. I could not understand how one could race a dart. After a little more probing I realised that he raced cars on dirt (dart) tracks.

Jeff left us the next morning as he had to return to work in Canada. I love being retired!

Our ride for the next four days took us through beautiful country that is popular all year round, with skiing in the winter and whitewater rafting, canoeing, camping, trout fishing, hiking, caving,

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READERS’ RIDE

cycling, and motorcycling in the summer. Riding along those twisting scenic back roads in the Appalachian Mountains of Pennsylvania, West Virginia, and Virginia, with the sweet sounds of bluegrass and country and western music drifting through my helmet headphones, is, as John Denver wrote in his song, “Almost heaven, West Virginia, Blue Ridge Mountains, Shenandoah River”. It doesn’t get much better than that.

After Jeff left we put in a good day’s ride through West Virginia along winding mountain roads from bend to bend. We were grateful late in the afternoon to have some respite when we came down from the mountains to cruise the river’s edge along a scenic valley to Roanoke in Virginia.

The amount of road kill along the way reminded us that we should not be riding after dusk. Deer may be cute little critters, but not when they are straddling your headlight. And then there are the skunks. You haven’t lived until you’ve had a good whiff of one that has just been skittled on the road.

As well as being on watch for animals, we were constantly watching for broken road surfaces caused by the severe winters. John hit one pothole so hard that both of his rear view mirrors popped out of their housings. On a previous ride together in Canada, he hit a pothole so hard that his bike suffered a bent front rim and a destroyed tyre.

In built-up areas, manhole covers can throw your bike around, as some sit quite proud of the road surface.

At the motel that night I struck up a conversation with two young guys from the room next door. One had noticed the Aussie sticker on my bike and was interested in our ride.

They asked many questions about Australia, kangaroos, and koalas. They were rapt when I gave them kangaroo lapel pins and small clip-on koalas for their kids.

One of them was a collector of foreign currency, and when we did a money swap, was intrigued to learn that the lady on my note was the queen of Australia who lived on the other side of the world in England. In a delightful southern drawl, his mate said that it would be cool to have kings and queens and all that stuff. I told him there was a time in history when they did have a king and queen, but after a big disagreement, the king and queen were kicked out. They seemed a little sad to hear that.

Here we spent the night relaxing before the ride north along the famous Blue Ridge Parkway—often claimed to be America’s favourite drive. There’s another famous motorcycle ride just south of where we were, in Tennessee. Unfortunately we could not get to it due to lack of time. It’s called the “Tail of the Dragon”, and has 318 tight curves in 17.5 km. That will be a ride for another day.

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6/08/2015 4:55 pm

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This Motorcycle Product is issued by WFI Insurance Limited (ABN 24 000 036 279, AFSL 241461) trading as Lumley Insurance. You should read the Product Disclosure Statement (PDS) before deciding to purchase this product. You can obtain a copy of the PDS from our website (www.neib.com.au) or by phoning our office.

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READERS’ RIDE

The ride for this next leg—the Blue Ridge Parkway—was the main purpose of our trip. It runs along the peaks of the Blue Ridge Mountains with the Allegheny Mountains to the west and the Shenandoah Mountains to the east. A very long way down on either side of the parkway we could see fertile farms in the valleys, while above we were watched by eagles, lazily soaring in the updraft from the valleys. At road level was a steady stream of motorcycles heading south.

Many riders we spoke to were headed for the “Tail of the Dragon”. Car traffic was fortunately light, as it was early morning on a weekday, and not school holiday time. Otherwise heavy traffic and a shortage of accommodation can be a real problem.

The traffic was mainly motorcycles, whose friendly riders insisted on waving as they went by. This pushed the bounds of friendliness, as there are very few guardrails and if you leave the road it’s an awful long way down. The temptation to rubberneck was strong but dangerous, so we stopped often for photo opportunities.

We also had to stop for road works,

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giving me the opportunity to ask one of these mountain men workers for directions to the nearest coffee shop.

His accent was so strong that after a few minutes of talking and hand waving from him, all I learned was that he despises lawyers and is convinced that many of them will burn in hell for eternity. We rode on, still without any idea where we could get a coffee.

After a few hours we were down from the ridge through the foothills and in the beautiful Shenandoah Valley. We rode through many miles of rich green corn fields and past pristine towns. For the entire ride it seemed that the roads were made for motorcycling, and we loved every mile of it. (Americans have not converted to kilometres.)

We had a short ride that day as we wanted to spend some time in Staunton—the oldest city in the Shenandoah Valley. Staunton featured prominently in the American War of Independence and again in the American Civil War. Here we stayed at Frederick House, a very old 25-room, family-run B&B hotel with period furniture and hospitable hosts. Within a short walk of this classic hotel are

galleries, museums, a 1950s style ice cream parlour, and music venues for classical, jazz, and bluegrass.

THE KLEENEX BROTHERS

This is the home of The Statler Brothers, a country and gospel music group who at one time backed Johnny Cash. Despite the name of the foursome, only two were brothers and none were named Statler. They joked about the fact that one day in a hotel room they had picked their name from a box of facial tissues and that they could well have been called The Kleenex Brothers.

Also close to our B&B was a sports bar. These are common in the USA, and provide a great place to unwind with a tall cold beer after a day on the road. Numerous large plasma screen TVs show baseball, football, and at this time, World Cup soccer—all playing at once. With a pint of beer at around $3 and a chance to talk to the locals, a sports bar is a great place to soak up a bit of atmosphere. Beer selection has improved in recent years, with many imported brands available alongside a large range of major brands and the

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selection from local mini-breweries.

The next day we rode north to another old historic town called Harpers Ferry, located where the Shenandoah and Potomac Rivers meet. The history here goes back to 1750 and includes abolitionist John Brown’s ill-fated attempt in 1850 to raid the US Armoury and then lead slaves in a revolt against the government. Things did not go well for John and he met his end a few days later on the gallows. This town featured greatly a few years later during the Civil War. The afternoon’s ride was very a pleasant one through rolling hills, attractive countryside, and numerous state forests. By midafternoon we crossed the MasonDixon Line, which in this area is the Maryland–Pennsylvania border.

We were now officially back in “The North”.

That night’s stop was at Hazleton, Pennsylvania. The next day we continued north, crossing the New York State border and into the summer holiday and wine growing Fingers Lakes district.

We had more riding on great roads under bright blue skies to the city of Auburn, with its classic American stone buildings—many adorned with American flags. We paused here for a coffee break and, as luck would have it, stopped right outside a diner straight from the 1950s—its Art Deco interior complete with a juke box, booths, and bar stools. We had to try the house speciality for which they are famous— fries and gravy. The waitress assured us the recipe had not changed since the diner opened in 1951. I understood why, as the dish was superb. Of course we had to get in the theme of the place, so we finished the fries with a Coke float. North Americans love their french fries, piling them up with almost every restaurant meal. Common sights are roadside vendors in “chip trucks” selling only french fries.

Heading further north, we arrived late in the afternoon at Oswego on Lake Ontario. This is the home of Oswego Speedway, famous for the 200 lap big-block super modified Budweiser Classic.

The next day we got off the back roads and took the highway to the

“BEER SELECTION HAS IMPROVED IN RECENT YEARS, WITH MANY IMPORTED BRANDS AVAILABLE ALONGSIDE A LARGE RANGE OF MAJOR BRANDS AND THE SELECTION FROM LOCAL MINIBREWERIES” Thousand Islands, an archipelago of 1,864 islands in the St Lawrence River through which runs the USA– Canada border. After inching our way along in the traffic at Customs and Immigration, we were finally in Canada and heading for the nation’s capital, Ottawa, to spend a day of R&R with family.

What a fabulous ride this had been.

The weather had been kind to us, the scenery superb, and the memories of our experiences and the delightful people we met along the way have inspired me to begin organising my next big ride. 

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EVENT

BEAR ARMY NORTHERN MANOEUVRES POLAR BEAR GATHERING PHOTOS TIM STANDEN It’s so nice to be insane No one asks you to explain…

Helen Reddy’s “Angie Baby”

Y

es, it definitely helps to be a bit crazy to join the Bear Army.

There is a reason why the Army manoeuvres are in winter, you see. It takes an extra bit of effort to get out there on the bike, and it’s not just a doddle to reach the venue.

So here’s a report on the Northern manoeuvres. I rode an Indian Roadmaster to the event, which will make a story in itself. Amazing touring bike! We met for dinner at the Globe Hotel in Rylstone, near… well, it’s not really near anything. This was also an opportunity to distribute the first of the brass Army badges, and they were pretty well received too.

We were particularly honoured by

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the attendance of our Trooper #1, Pat, who is not as well as he might be and who made a really special effort to be there. Wonderful to see you, Pat. I thought I’d just give those of you who have not joined up those basics, and then let the comments from troopers who were there tell the story.

(I’ve omitted names because some of them might just get into trouble if it was known back home that they weren’t at grandma’s funeral over the weekend after all…)

One attendee had a flat tyre on the way, but it didn’t put him off.

There is nothing like being with a bunch of motorcyclists who have travelled widely. Non-travellers talk about their trip to the next town, but travellers talk about last weekend in

Marrakesh. It’s nice to be able to relate and listen to stories from all over, without being bored, or boring. I love it.

I hope your Indian (ie, with a feather, not a dot) ride home was uneventful and enjoyable.

My sick rear tyre held its air 100%, so we had no further dramas.

A similar reaction came from another trooper.

G’day Bear and all other Troopers, While you thanked us for our involvement in the Northern Manoeuvres, I would like to thank you for the time, effort and stretching of the grey matter it took to come up with “The Bear Army” and the Northern Manoeuvres.

Like any group we met as strangers and left as friends & that is due to those that attended.

I like the magazine & you, Stuart & the team should be proud of the quality of articles, stories etc.

As for “The Northern Manoeuvres”, I agree - It was indeed a good night with GREAT PEOPLE. We all have different yet similar stories, it was good to hear from others.

In fact, the name comes from a brisk debate on the ADVRider website, but thanks anyway!

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One bloke was taken by the bikes.

Thanks so much for organising the Northern Manoeuvre. What a great night with a great group of people. I didn’t know a soul when I rolled up, but I’ve made new friends and I hope to be able to catch up with the entire mob again…sooner rather than later.

Amongst a number of things I took away with me, was the variety of bikes parked out the back were as interesting as their owners! I think that all the food groups were included. Thanks again for a brilliant get-together.

Another was taken by the attitude of the troopers.

Thanks again for a great weekend Peter. It’s been ages since I have been able to talk to such a great bunch of people, freely, without people being judgemental!

Long may this continue. It’s a credit to you, in bringing such people together. BEST night I have had in many years!

Troopers were by no means just from close by.

Well blokes, I only arrived home this afternoon after leaving Rylstone and spending Sunday

night with friends in Scone. Yesterday I had an uneventful run up the New England Hwy to the bike-friendly Great Central Hotel Glen Innes. This morning rode the much under-rated Gwydir Hwy to Grafton before heading north and home.

Yes we had a great meet up and I can only endorse what has already been said by others - thanks Bear. Sorry but I’m bad with names - thanks Ian(?) that fortified cabernet was a unique treat. Cheers ’till next time.

And finally, from someone who didn’t make it…

It does look as if the Bear Army is catching on…

You guys have made me very jealous with all the details in your emails.

I couldn’t attend because an overseas motorcycling buddy suddenly turned up at my house with his family and I couldn’t leave them alone. I am sure you guys will accept my predicament and nonattendance.

At least I hope someone used the room I had booked.

Hopefully I can attend the next gathering.

Good Evening Troopers, and General Bear, I would like to add my thanks to those whose company I thoroughly enjoyed. I was lucky enough to be seated across from Pat, a thorough gentleman, with great stories, and, yes Pat, on the way home (to Newcastle), I saw your tree on the piece of road between Jerrys Plains and Denman, and my thoughts were of you… take care good sir.

I’ve already told (asked?) the Minister for Finance and War that I would like to attend future ‘Northern Manoeuvres’, she is in amicable to this.

Thanks to all for creating, and being a part of this ‘community’ and I look forward to catching up again. Be Good.

You can still join the Bear Army.

Membership of the 1st Company is limited to 250 troopers, but there’s plenty of room yet. To join, drop me or Stuart a line at info@ausmotorcyclist.com.au and ask for the membership form. It costs $250, which gets you a two year subscription to Australian MOTORCYCLIST Magazine, a numbered T-shirt, a brass badge with your number on it and a few stickers. Membership is free after that (for the time being, anyway) and permanent, unless you want to leave or you give me the pips.

And listen – thank you, troopers, for making the Bear Army such a terrific force! PT 

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READERS’ RIDES

DON’T JUST PASS BY A DEFENCE OF THE SOUTHERN TABLELANDS WORDS/PHOTOS BOB WOZGA

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hen you mention the Southern Tablelands to most people, they respond with a yawn and tell you with some authority that “It consists of Goulburn and Canberra. There is nothing to see or do there. That is why they built a bypass around both places so you can get to Melbourne quicker”. As they continue talking, you realise they have either slept all the way from Sydney, were in some other comatose state while there,

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or simply haven’t been there at all.

It does appear people hop in their car, turn on the Navman and take the most direct route. This is invariably the most mind numbing path, following expressways, bypassing towns and directing you to twin servos where you are guided to Macca’s and poor coffee.

This has its place but is a dead boring route. If you are able to obtain a map, an alternative route can be planned out.

A comfortable day’s ride during the warmer months is a trip to Captains Flat, to the east of the ACT. Heading south from Sydney, you can race down the M5 until Campbelltown where you veer off and travel through Camden, over Razorback and into Picton. The Old Hume Highway follows through to Mittagong and joins the express way just south of Berrima. This way you can support the local economy by stopping

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for a coffee and pie in any one of the local bakeries. As you near Goulburn, you bypass the bypass and head into town.

Goulburn still has the wide streets and architecture of a once major trading centre. After the bypass was completed about ten years ago, the town did suffer a slight decline in trade. A few of the smaller service stations and takeaway joints disappeared. But on the whole, it has survived and has grown. It still services smaller communities such as Crookwell, Taralga and Braidwood.

Wakefield Park is still a big drawcard and keeps the motels occupied. Taking the Braidwood turnoff, passing the railway station and rail yards, you find that the

traffic begins to thin out and houses give way to open fields full of grazing sheep.

Further along, there’s a line of cars banked on the side of the road waiting to get into Wakefield Park for a race day.

The road is well kept and comfortable to cruise along for the next forty kilometres where you come to an intersection with a cricket pitch on one corner, a disused petrol bowser on another and statue of a dog in front of a pub on the third corner.

For the Henry Lawson fans, this pub was named after his poem “The Loaded Dog”.

Great story if you know it, great story to read if you don’t know it. For crime buffs, it was also the meeting place of Ben Hall, Frank Gardiner and the Clark Brothers

where they made plans to rob the gold shipment from the Majors Creek Mine in the late 1800s. For anyone else, the beer is cold and the chips are hot and the atmosphere good.

Heading toward the coast, somewhere past the headwaters of the Shoalhaven River, you ride through a time warp and arrive in Braidwood. The whole town is listed by the National Trust, Georgian buildings line the wide street and if it wasn’t for cars, you would swear you had stepped into the 1890s. It is worth taking some time to stretch the legs and have a look around. The town has interesting galleries, the coffee is hot and there is a bakery down the road that makes

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READERS’ RIDES

excellent pies. This is a main stopping point for people from Canberra heading to Batemans Bay so traffic increases through town during the holiday periods; keep an eye out for drivers who don’t look out for bikes.

At the end of town, turn right at the service station and head towards Cooma.

The road is in reasonable condition and the traffic is relatively light. At Ballalaba, a gravel road on the right rises into the hills to take you to Captains Flat. The gravel runs for only about 40km and traverses open country and forested areas where roadkill needs to be dodged. As per normal in these areas, road signs are peppered with gunshots. It’s best not to ride too late in the day just in case

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you get hit by a suicidal wallaby or anything else.

Closer to town the bitumen starts and winds down the hill into Captains Flat.

Named after a straying bullock called Captain that could always be found in this valley the town was known for the Lake George Mine located on the outskirts and producing gold, silver, lead, zinc, copper and iron pyrites. After closing in 1962 the mine site now has scattered ruins and a lookout built on the barren hilltop. A thoughtful artist has painted a mural on the mine’s entrance.

Depicting miners at the mouth of the shaft it is a fitting tribute to the people who worked in this remote area. Leaving town towards Queanbeyan, the road runs

alongside an abandoned railway line that once carried the ore to be processed. A nondescript road sign points to a graded road leading to Hoskinstown and Bungendore. Along this road, the rail line crosses the Molongo River on a rusting steel bridge on concrete pylons while the road crosses on an aging single lane wooden bridge. Paint peeling and timbers fading, the bridge sits as a reminder of busier times for the region.

Part of the lane has been cordoned off where the bearers have been repaired and barriers have been placed to prevent heavy vehicles causing further damage.

Wooden bridges have a certain charm, they look like giant Meccano sets. You can see where all the bits and pieces are

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bolted together to make trusses and the planks for the road are bolted down leaving their boltheads sticking out.

It’s a good place to pull over, brew a cup of tea while looking around and taking a few photos.

Heading north takes you through Hoskinstown, Bungendore back to Tarago and into Goulburn meeting the express way that guides you back to Sydney. All up, this is a great day’s ride and can easily be done with a group of friends or solo, taking in great scenery, great little towns and a variety of road conditions.

It is surprising what you can see if you stop to look. We live at such a fast pace now that we have programmed ourselves

to make snap decisions regarding everything from replies to emails to making a purchase on “today only” sales. We have a need to get from “A to B” in the quickest time and often hear people brag about how quickly they rode. Ask them what they saw, and the answer is either “umm” or “I ride for speed, not to see”. We need to relearn how to unwind, breathe, see and enjoy what is around us.

An alternative route for the return journey from Goulburn if you have the time is to pass through Penrose Forest into Exeter and Bundanoon, spending a night in Moss Vale, Bowral or Mittagong before tackling the traffic back to Sydney.

I rode through Penrose Forest a while ago and came across a large hairy lady collecting mushrooms between the pine trees. She made grunting noises while climbing over fallen logs. I put this down to her being a Latvian mushroom picker and gave no more thought to it until recently when I came across an article on the net about Yowies being spotted in the forest.

This got me thinking about the Latvian mushroom picker in the middle of the forest. Yowies are obviously good at disguises, otherwise they would have been found by now. Maybe there was more to the grunting hairy lady than meets the eye.

I may need to do a follow up trip through the forest soon to confirm my theory. 

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TEAR OUT MAP #31

MY WAY OR THE HIGHWAY SYDNEY TO GLOUCESTER/NABIAC WORDS/PHOTOS COLIN WHELAN

THE OLD ROAD

The two servos on the highway at Berowra are the traditional meeting spots for riders heading up the Old Road. Both serve all grades of fuel.

There’re two cafes along here which are very popular with riders: The Pie in the Sky at Cowan and Road Warriors at Mt White. It would not be unfair to say their popularity is due to their location rather than any special services for riders or the quality of their fare or service.

BULAHDELAH

A nice little village doing its best now

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it’s become a billabong town: a few good cafes, a decent bakery and the Plough Inn pub and there’s fuel at the Shell. I reckon the Café on Main is the pick for food whilst the Shiralee Café has never been overly welcoming. If you’re just after a leg stretch, park with the ducks on the left before you cross the Myall River. There’s also an IGA on the main street for your rider provisions.

COOLONGOLOOK

No by-pass here! The Salty Dog Café and Gallery are on your left as you head north, just to the south of the

two servos. This is a quirky place that is well worth a stop. The service is friendly and fast and the atmosphere is relaxing. The BP and the Caltex sell all grades of fuel.

NABIAC

The Caltex here is massive and has all grades but to fill your own tank, loop back over the Highway and head to either the Village Cafe or the Greenhouse Cottage.

The Motorcycle Museum is up along Clarkson Rd. Run by the magnificent Margaret Kellaher, it’s well worth the stop.

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MY WAY OR THE HIGHWAY - SYDNEY TO GLOUCESTER/NABIAC

MY WAY OR THE HIGHWAY – SYDNEY TO GLOUCESTER/NABIAC. Sooner or later you’re going to want or need to ride up or down the east coast from Sydney to Cairns or points in between. In this first of a series of guides to the two most easterly options for these routes we’re going to go from Sydney to Gloucester (my way) and to Nabiac (the highway).

THE HIGHWAY: SYDNEY TO NABIAC, 284KM (GREEN) Gotta start somewhere, head over the the Sydney Harbour bridge, you could opt to head straight up the Pacific Hwy but it’s far more enjoyable to go on to the Lane Cove Exit (not the toll tunnel) and then continue down Epping Hwy (in the Bus Lane). You’ll cross the Lane Cove River for the first time at the bottom of a dip. Continue on Epping Hwy past the right turn for the M2 until you then take the left slip road for the right turn into Lane Cove Rd, signposted, Pymble. Follow this over the Lane Cove River for a second time and then take the first left onto Yanko Rd which soon transforms into the Comenarra Parkway. Enjoy the curves until you get to the Sydney Adventist Hospital and turn right onto Fox Valley Rd which will lead you to the Pacific Hwy where you turn left. Watch your speed through the radars outside Knox School and then turn right onto the M1 Expressway. You would have to be in a damn hurry not to take the exit for Berowra and get yourself onto the old highway for the ride down the Hawkesbury River Bridge and then up to Mount White. Like the Putty, more inland, this is one of the three good riding roads for Sydney’s weekend warriors and is a great ride.

Ride this twisty until you reach the T at Calga, where you take a right and then another signed for Gosford.

Eventually you hit a roundabout where you take a right and then the left sweeper back onto the Expressway. If you don’t take the old road up to the Gosford turn, you’ve got an hour of highway riding before you hit reach the end with a roundabout and a

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turn right signposted Hexham. Don’t take the left on the new extension of the motorway toward Singleton on the New England. Continue past the BP truckstop on your left and follow as the road winds down to the old bridge at Hexham where you cross it and keep on the Pacific Hwy through Raymond Terrace. There’s plenty of fuel around and once you clear the services you’ll see the turnoff for Bucketts Way on your left. If you want to head inland this is your chance to join the ‘My Way’ guide at Stroud, otherwise keep going up the Pacific. Continue on for 80km from the Hexham bridge and you’ll get to Bulahdelah, which is a nice place to take a break either at the park before the bridge or in the town itself which is now off the highway. If you want to keep going for a bit, the next good place is at Coolongolook up the highway where you can get one of the better meals at the Salty Dog and fuel at the BP across the road. Then it’s on to Nabiac where you can get all fuel at the Caltex but probably just as important, you can drop in and see the Motorcycle Museum… just take the exit off the expressway and follow the loop around over the highway and then follow the brown signs pretty much straight ahead along Clarkson St, and the Museum is on the left.

MY WAY: SYDNEY TO GLOUCESTER, 374KM (ORANGE) Leaving Sydney on this route it’s much more difficult to avoid tolls but the motorways at least save you a bundle of time. Follow the directions in Highway Guide above for the first two paragraphs until you are through Lane Cove but then, once you’ve crossed the Lane Cove River and climb up, get in the right lanes and take the right into Delhi Rd and then the left onto the M2.

This becomes the M7 (tolls) and follow this until you get to the Old Windsor Rd Exit where you take the left slip road and the hang a right and follow this road all the way to Windsor. Continue straight at Windsor (the town is off to the left) and cross the Nepean river and follow the road as it bends sharp right and becomes Wilberforce Rd and

suddenly you’re on the Putty, one of the favourite rides for most of Sydney’s weekend warriors. This is 175 km of wonderful riding. There’s also way too many roadside crosses and bunches of flowers so take it easy! The right turn at Bulga can be a bugger (it’s sharper than you expect and often covered with gravel), so keep the concentration on even when out of the hills. Just outside Singleton the Putty Rd morphs into Glenridding Rd and then John St, the town’s main drag. Continue north east along John Street as it bends right under the bridge and keep going straight, following signs to Gresford and without any effort but a fair bit of fun you’ll soon come down the hill at Gresford, with the pub right in front of you. Turn left onto Bingleburra Rd which in turn becomes Sugarloaf Rd for the run into Dungog which you’ll hit with the pub on your left. Turn left around the pub and head out of town, over the river on Stroud Hill Road for a very enjoyable zip into Stroud Rd. Easiest way is to continue to the T and then turn left on Bucketts Way but an enjoyable short cut is to take the left at Williams Rd signposted Stroud Rd, about 2km west of Bucketts. (This has a very nice swimming hole to the right of the causeway.) Once on Bucketts head north for Gloucester where, next month the fun steps up a gear! In Gloucester you’ll soon see the Avon Valley pub on your right and Roadies Café on your left.

CONNECTION (YELLOW) There’s a very enjoyable connecting road between our Nabiac and Gloucester routes if you want to swap routes. From Nabiac town just head back to the Caltex servo and follow the signs for Bucketts Way and Gloucester.

From Gloucester, just head north from Roadies and take the first right onto Denison St which soon becomes Bucketts Way and leads you down to Nabiac, going the other way.

Fully detailed .gpx maps of these routes are available at: www.motorbikenation.com My thanks to my Human Relations Dept for the continued support. 

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PUTTY ROAD

Make sure you’re full leaving Windsor as there’s no longer any fuel available on the Putty except at Colo Heights (cash only).

You’ll find the Grey Gums Café on your right about 86kms north of Windsor and it makes a good break.

SINGLETON

The Caltex at the western end of the main drag has all types of fuel and just up and across the road, the Singleton Pie Shop is one of the best bakeries around.

DUNGOG

The Bank Hotel on the corner of Hooke and Dungog streets is one of my favourites whist just down on Dowling you’ll find Chillbillies which does a top job of producing some really nice meals. Never been disappointed here. The servo is a bit difficult to find: Head south on Dowling and turn right at the end and follow Mary as it curves left and you’ll find the servo.

GLOUCESTER

Roadies Café is no longer in the

hands of Mark its founder and the service seems to’ve dropped away. But the bikes are still interesting and the vibe is good.

There’s a couple of other very acceptable nosh joints on the main street. Best accommodation is the motel at the Roundabout at the top end of town and fuel can be got at the Shell on the left as you head out of town. The cattle sale yards are on the right, south of the town, and are well worth a drop by if sales are on when you ride in. 

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READERS’ RIDE

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SOUTH INDIA

BEACHES TO THE MOUNTAINS PORTUGUESE, DUTCH, BRITS, INDIANS – AND OSKAR AND ROBERT WORDS\PHOTOS ROBERT CRICK

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READERS’ RIDE

I

ndia on a motorcycle is not confined to the lofty and awesome Himalayas or the deserts, palaces and forts of Rajasthan. There’s great riding, sightseeing and relaxing to be had in southern India.

KOCHI ON THE COAST

Our trip spanned south western India, taking in the spectacular coastline of Karnataka and Goa, the twists and turns of mountain riding up and down the Western Ghats, tiger ‘hunting’ in World Heritage wilderness, and being absorbed by the ancient cultures that constructed the formidable temple complexes of the Deccan Plateau.

The adventure started in Kochi on the far south western coast of India.

Under the British Raj it was Cochin, but its origins as a major port go back to Vasco da Gama who claimed it for Portugal in his search for spices and whatever other treasures he might find. That was before the Dutch moved in and chased the Portuguese up to Goa; and, of course, the British eventually moved in and took everything from both.

There are remnants of all this in Kochi as well as a labyrinth of canals stretching along and inland from the coast. And, of course, the church where Vasco da Gama lay buried for years before the Portuguese

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repatriated him. Or was it the Indians who deported him? In any event, he was long dead by then. He rests peacefully in Lisbon.

We got introduced to our Royal Enfield Desert Storms in Kochi.

Certainly, you couldn’t even think of riding in India on anything but a Royal Enfield, even if most Indians don’t. This time, however, instead of the more traditional – dare I say erratic – Bullet, with its gears on the wrong side and upside down, the Desert Storm is thoroughly conventional; and a breeze to manage and enjoy. That was a welcome bonus not least because I would have my 14 year old grandson, Oskar, on the back.

MOUNTAIN ROADS

The road to our first destination took us across mostly flat countryside for an hour or so before we started the climb into the Western Ghats to Munnar – a ‘Hill Station’: resorts established by the British as retreats from the oppressing summer heat of the lower plains. Munnar is about 1700m above sea level, so it was a significant climb of twisting roads and decreasing temperatures, with sprawling tea plantations undulating to the horizons and interspersed with high jagged ridges of mountain

spurs. Not only was the vista spectacular, but the narrow, twisting roads demanded some derring-do to manoeuvre through the lines of vehicles slowed by trucks or busses; and, subsequently, to creep and squeeze round the slow moving obstacles.

There were plenty of opportunities to take in the scenery, feed the inquisitive monkeys, sample the refreshing coconut water directly from its source, meet the engaging local kids and, inevitably, keep energised by the varieties of local chai.

Getting to Kodaikanal, another of the Western Ghats hill stations, took us across hotter lowlands and through many noisy, bustling towns with all the colour and vibrancy you expect from this fabulous country before the climb to Kodai. About half way up, we stopped for a breather and refreshments of coconut water and coconut flesh (eaten only when you’d finished the water). Oskar got through the water but fed the flesh to the scores of monkeys frolicking in the over-hanging trees. Their antics were beguiling.

DOWN TO THE DECCAN

Getting out of Kodai meant a long, winding road back down to the Deccan Plateau. Our next major centre was

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Ooty, known as Queen of the hill stations. But before we could start the climb to Ooty, there were a few hours of crossing the plains on a mix of secondary and highway roads.

By now Oskar had acquired a taste for coconut water and was eager for the refreshment stops we made along the road side.

By the time we stopped for lunch it was already the middle of the afternoon. This was Oskar’s second exposure to the South Indian favourite of a thali: a mix of curries and other assorted dishes. This time we had the more traditional way of serving it – on a banana leaf. One of the many highlights of the trip was the delectable South Indian cuisine, particularly the seafood dishes of coastal Karnataka and Goa (to come later in the tour).

By the time we got to Ooty it was late into evening dusk. The town spills over a few rises at the top of the range and was shrouded in smoky haze, with the inevitable chill of the hill station being well felt.

The road we needed from Ooty to Bandipur was blocked for larger vehicles (like our support vehicle) that were not local. It seems that at night only locals were to be trusted negotiating the 36 tight hairpin bends that drop you steeply onto the plain

below. We hung around in Ooty for 40 minutes or so while negotiations were undertaken to get clearance for the support vehicle. It was by now quite dark. So the rest of the trip – down the hairpins and across the flats through national park and reserve country of elephants and roaming nocturnal cats like leopards – would be in total darkness!

I suggested to Oskar that it would be safer for him to travel with the support vehicle given the dangers ahead of riding such a difficult stretch in the dark. That only made him all the more insistent on staying with the bike.

Most of the bends were not only sharp hairpins but had a steep drop to them. Negotiating them with frequent high beam headlights of cars, trucks and the occasional bus coming at you was a totally new form of ‘fun’.

Having a tail light of a bike in front helped. But after a re-group stop at a convenient spot about a third of the way down, Oskar and I ended up dropping back to last in the line apart from one of the local staff, Chandan, riding as Tail End Charlie. On one of the left turns, the bike in front went a bit wide, startled by the lights of a truck right at the turn, and wisely got quickly across the front of the vehicle but ending up sliding onto the verge

on the other side of the road (luckily there was a verge, which mostly didn’t exist). Peter was fine: just a tad shaken. We got his bike upright and back on the road.

By the time Oskar and I got back on our bike there were no tail lights in sight. Chandan stayed with his bike waiting for the support vehicle.

Oskar and I set off to continue the run down the hairpins quite alone.

No one in front. No one behind.

That was daunting.

At a subsequent regroup a vehicle coming up the range stopped to see if we were okay. The driver asked where we were headed. I told him Bandipur, to which he admonished that the park gate shuts at 9.00pm and we would not get through after that, adding that this was elephant country – even where we were parked – and it would be unwise to dally anywhere.

Fortuitously, Rahul (mechanic extraordinaire) turned up on a bike with instructions that we were to follow him poste haste for the rest of the trip to Bandipur. The support vehicle had been turned back.

Even from the bottom of the escarpment, which it was a relief to reach, it was a long ride through thickly jungled terrain before we reached our accommodation in

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READERS’ RIDE

the Bandipur Tiger Reserve. It was 9.00pm. We had been on the road for 12 hours!

BANDIPUR TIGER RESERVE

We had a rest day at the Bandipur Tiger Reserve. The resort was laid out in a series of duplex cottagestyle rooms with linking stone paths and lots of trees, often with monkeys hovering and exploring. Spotted deer lurked in the scrub at the back of the cottages. Elephants were heard in the night close by. Resort rules were that no one stepped outside their rooms after 10.30pm (presumably that’s when the guards retired).

It was a lazy day: a guided trek for about an hour in the morning (lots of spoor but only spotted deer to be seen); a swim and poolside read for some; and a three hour motorised safari into the far reaches of the reserve in the late afternoon/early evening No tigers, but a distant leopard and lots of other wildlife.

MYSORE

It was back on the bike for a half day run to Mysore, called the city of palaces, the centrepiece of which is the spectacular Mysore Palace.

The palace was the official residence of the former royal family – the Wodeyar family. The Kingdom of

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Mysore was ruled for hundreds of years by the Wodeyar Dynasty, the “king” being the Maharaja of Mysore.

The kingdom has long gone, as have all the many empires and kingdoms that constituted Hindustan. The palace is maintained and controlled by the State Government of Karnataka.

However, a small portion of the palace has been set aside for the Wodeyars to live in. The royal family has no official status and certainly no power as such, but old habits die hard; and they are obviously afforded some informal status and respect.

The interior of the palace was a true marvel. Its halls, rooms and decorations were a match for its exterior.

HASSAN AND BELUR

The ride through Mysore and onto Hassan and Belur was mostly flattish with occasional rises and dips.

This is the Deccan Plateau, which had spawned so many of India’s great kingdoms; and been ferociously fought over by Mughals and Maharashtras in times past.

A key feature of this part of the tour was a visit to a 1,000 year old Jain Temple planted on top of a hill andvisible for miles from every direction. It houses the tallest monolithic statue of Bahubali (a Jain

deity). The climb to the top was up 300 stairs, hewn into the rock. Oskar bounded up as though he’d overdosed on the local version of Red Bull!

The view from the top was amazing.

The descent for Oskar was made easier by sliding down the steel pipe hand rails.

Not far beyond Hassan, we stopped at the small town of Belur – the location of a complex of temples that most spectacularly captures the past glory of the Hoysala Kingdom which ruled most of present day Karnataka between the 10th and 14th centuries.

Belur was its initial capital. The main temple was built in the 1100s and displays intricate carvings that are almost unbelievable given the era and available tools.

BACK TO THE COAST

From the Deccan Plateau we headed back to the west coast of India and the Arabian Sea. Being on a plateau, we didn’t have much of a climb back into the Western Ghats, but were rewarded with a long, winding descent down the escarpment to the coastal plain.

The goal at the end of this day’s ride was Turtle Bay Resort. We rode into it with the sun setting over the Arabian Sea. This was the first time that Oskar had seen the sun setting over the sea, although it took a bit of explaining to

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him that this was so. The resort was right on the beach front.

SOUTH GOA: COLVA

From Turtle Bay we rode up the coast, flitting in and out of view of the Arabian Sea, but always with the smell of fish pervading the air. There were fishing boats on the beach at Turtle Bay putting out early in the morning; and seemingly lots of similar activity all the way up the coast.

Turtle Bay is still in the State of Karnataka and it was a few hours before we crossed the State border into Goa. Once there, a few things started to stand out: congested towns, more casual, young foreign tourists (this used to be Hippie Central a few decades back), and lots of Christian establishments (churches, schools, hospitals) – remember, the Portuguese set up shop in Goa.

AGONDA BEACH

A visit to Agonda Beach was a treat off our main route. Agonda was quite a way from the highway but at the end of an enjoyable partially twisting road in good condition (apart from the very rough last kilometre to the beach).

The beach is in a large bay, a wide sandy stretch lined by coconut trees camouflaging single storey hotels, beach huts, eateries and traders’ stalls

of various sorts. The Arabian Sea is fairly calm and a pleasant temperature.

Lunch was at a classy establishment right on the beach. Oskar’s choice was calamari for starters followed by King Fish fillets and chocolate brownie.

That was with a cocoloco mocktail somewhere in there.

The beach was shared with a few foreign tourists and a local bullock.

CALANGUTE

The dreaded day: the last day of riding.

It was a short run from Colva in South Goa to Calangute in North Goa. The dividing line is the capital of Goa – Panaji – which we skirted.

After a brief check-in at the hotel in Calangute, we rode further north to (tour leader) Zander’s home to leave the bikes for servicing before being trucked back to Kochi for the next tour.

After chai at Zander’s, we dumped our motorcycle gear there and took taxis to a nearby restaurant…well, except for Zander and Oskar who rode on Zander’s “chopper”- an old Royal Enfield.

After that it was a visit to the Wednesday flea market – a widespread, busy and bustling array of all sorts of stalls with lots of bars and restaurants mingling amongst them.

Next morning, having farewelled the rest of the group who had early

flights, Oskar and I decided to check out the local beach. In stark contrast to Agonda, Calangute Beach is immediately accessible to a large population centre as well as the many domestic tourists who come to Goa at this time of year from the cold north of India. The beach was more like a Sydney suburban beach on a summer long weekend complete with attentive life guards and the familiar red and yellow flags.

THIVIM TO MUMBAI

Although our train wasn’t scheduled until 6.55pm, we took the precaution of heading to the station way ahead of time because we were still only waitlisted. Having got to the top of the window queue at 4:15pm, the attendant checked our ticket reference number and advised that “the chart has not yet been drawn up.” The ‘chart’ is the manifest of passengers. One needs to be on the manifest to get on the train.

We were called back at about 5:00pm to tell us that we were confirmed. A few minutes later he posted the manifest on the station notice board; and it was a further relief to see our names on it.

This tour was undertaken with Extreme Bike Tours.

Web: www.extremebiketours.com Email: info@extremebiketours.com 

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EVENT

THROTTLE ROLL 2015 A CELEBRATION OF CAFE CUSTOMS AND URBAN CHIC WORDS & PHOTOS MIKE GRANT

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W

hen the Wall Street Journal runs a story on Cafe Racers, as it did in April this year, you know that interest in this style of motorcycle is reaching a new level. The article showcased some custom builders in the US and highlighted how wide a spectrum these bikes now cover, from resurrected and heavily modified vintage creations from Loaded Gun and Analog, to built-up from brand new

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lean-as-a-whippet 250s from Janus.

Any more than a quick google-glance around the planet will also tell you that surging interest is wide-spread. Check out Wrenchmonkees in Denmark (first tipped to me by a Barista in Camperdown) or the stunning Teutonic lines of the bikes from Berlin’s Kaffeemaschine. It’s not surprising then that Sydney’s de facto cafe racer convention ‘Throttle Roll’ this year

attracted an even bigger crowd than last. When I squeezed into the venue last year mid-afternoon on Saturday I could barely move. This year I could barely breathe.

This is the event’s third year. Its epicentre is the Vic on the Park Hotel in Sydney’s inner-western suburb of Marrickville. It features a loosely organised ride, which is to say there is a nominated meeting point at a pie

“THERE ARE CAFÉ RACERS, BOBBERS, TRACKERS, SLEDS, AND THE ODD CHOPPER. THERE WAS A GREAT MIX OF TECHNO AND RETRO – LED LIGHTS AND STEAM PUNK DIALS”

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EVENT

cart on the Princes Highway and a set-off time. The route loops down the South Coast and back (very scenic) and 135km later ends up at the pub about 3km from the start. In fairness, the organisers follow with a backup van for emergency repairs and first aid in case anyone gets a bit overexuberant or perhaps just unlucky.

If you go on the ride next year make

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sure you read the risk assessment and disclaimer on the Throttle Roll web site. It’s got a great typo in it that warns you against ‘collusion’ with another vehicle or stationary object.

Don’t you all be ganging up now!

Back at the pub all the action is in the carpark /beer garden / outdoor area where the bikes are displayed around the perimeter

three-high on scaffolding like cage dancers at a disco. They look great and the variety of brands, features, modifications, dress-ups, strip-downs, and decorations is brilliant. The only problem is wriggling along through the crush of bodies to get a good look. There are café racers, bobbers, trackers, sleds, and the odd chopper.

There was a great mix of techno and

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“ROCK ‘N’ ROLL DANCERS, SPECTACULAR TATTS, CUT-OFF DENIM, AND LOTS OF BIKER SUB-GROUPS MIXING IT IN, LIKE THE FOXY FUELERS”

retro – LED lights and steam punk dials, that sort of thing. Oh, and one heavily chopped scooter with amazing finely filigreed crankcases.

Moto-Guzzi, Ducati, and Yamaha are sponsors, along with a brace of custom shops ranging from the corporately-slick Deus to the crammed hole-in-the-wall authentic Motociclo.

And then there was the crowd. What a buzz. Rock ‘n’ roll dancers, spectacular tatts, cut-off denim, and lots of biker sub-groups mixing it in, like the Foxy Fuelers – a group of young women café racer enthusiasts. Good to see a bit of gender balance coming in to the scene.

I assume that it will all be on again next May so go along for at least a beer and a peek. I recommend it. 

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READERS’ RIDE

1

2

3

ESCAPE FROM COLDITZ ANOTHER MOVIE DEPICTION BITES THE DUST… WORDS/PHOTOS CHRIS PRIOR

I

t didn’t start well. The strong westerlies that battered me as I rode from my home in Cheshire, in northwest England, to the ferry port of Hull on the east coast made me doubt whether this was the right time of year to tour Europe on two wheels. Being retired gives me freedom to choose so I’d decided to go when the main tourist season was past, but the weather still pleasant, or so I hoped. I’d lived in Berlin in the 1970s and had long wanted

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to see how it and the other former eastern block countries had changed since the collapse of communism. The hedonism of the West then contrasted starkly with the austerity of the Soviet dominated East.

Apart from that, I had no fixed schedule and would ride as the fancy took me.

In addition to the tunnel there are many ferry routes from Britain to mainland Europe, mostly from the south coast.

Had I taken even the shortest of these I

would not have set tyres onto continental roads until at least seven hours after leaving home. By taking the overnight crossing from Hull I could arrive in Rotterdam early morning, refreshed and ready for a full day’s riding.

Shortly after arriving the weather turned really nasty. The weather front had now caught up with the continent. High wind and heavy rain accompanied me through Holland and into Germany. German

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READERS’ RIDE

Winterberg is doubtless a most attractive town when the sun shines on it and the same must be said of Süd Sauerland as a whole, but that day it was not showing itself at its best. After a couple of hours or so I realised that the rain was in for the day, so I returned to the Bigger Hoff to warm myself, dry my riding clothes and indulge in the German practice of taking an afternoon Kaffee und Kuchen.

My next destination was Berlin. In the 1970s I’d spent two years there, employed as an aircraft engineer at Tegel Airport. In those cold war days Berlin led a somewhat artificial existence as an outpost of the West, surrounded by the notorious wall and a potentially hostile Soviet satellite state. I wanted to see how it had changed since German reunification. The weather had cleared by now, so staying off the Autobahn until Magdeburg I rode though the lovely Harz region on almost deserted country roads.

Then, what a change! Thirty five years ago the Autobahn from Berlin through East Germany (the Democratic Republic, as they styled themselves) to the West was the 1930s two-lane concrete affair with strictly enforced 100 kph limit. Now it’s three lanes – more in some places densely trafficked by vehicles large and small and no observable (or observed) speed limit.

Once into Berlin I started recognising landmarks. I rode up to the Brandenburg Gate, from which it was just a short distance from my hotel, the Etap in Anhalter Strasse, close to Potsdamer Platz. Etap Hotels are part of a budget chain with basic rooms lacking any charm or local flavour, but they are clean, comfortable and quite cheap. Four nights in the centre of Berlin, one of the major European capitals, cost €144, about $A222. It was now warm and sunny, ideal for exploring the city on foot. I left the bike chained to a rail at the back to the hotel, although this may have been overly cautious, as I saw many locally registered bikes parked around the city,

8

9

8. Berliner delicacy…

9. Remains of The Wall.

10. “Soviet” memorabilia.

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usually on the pavement, without any such safeguards.

The wasteland that once divided the East from the West has been transformed beyond recognition. The formerly dreary East with its constant odour of two-stroke oil from the once ludicrous, but now chic, Trabant is now the bustling hub of a revitalised city with the inevitable crush of tourists and vendors of trinkets and trash. Twenty and more years after the collapse of communism the quantity of Eastern Block uniforms on sale makes me suspect that some Chinese sweatshop is churning them out. Trabants still splutter their smoky way around the city on Trabi Safaris.

After Berlin I had no fixed plan other than to be at Belgium’s Zeebrugge ferry terminal in time for the homeward crossing, and that was more than a week away. Travelling alone I could, on impulse, take any highway and byway as the whim took me. Without companions to inconvenience I could stop at will to photograph and take my time about it.

It was even warmer as I left Berlin for Wroclaw in southwest Poland. The border

was marked by a sudden deterioration of the road surface. The bike pitched and shook and I was forced to keep the speed well down. To be fair, they’re working on it; I just happened to hit a bad stretch. It was a relief to get onto the country roads again, noting that the slip road off the motorway was cobbled. That must be scary at speed in the rain.

One of the pleasures of motorcycling is the connection with environment. Riding at an easy pace through the countryside, passing through little villages and absorbing the local ambience put the widest grin on my face. Moreover, the rural roads in Poland were generally quite well paved. I daresay they don’t suffer the predations of juggernauts.

Wroclaw is a delightful old city whose market square is one of the largest of its kind. Painstakingly rebuilt after the destruction of the Second World War, it is bounded by buildings whose facades range from Gothic to Art Nouveau. At one corner is the curious 14th century Gothic Town Hall, now the city museum.

Poland is still relatively cheap, most of the younger people speak English and the

food and beers are good. Everyone I met was friendly, and the Bonneville attracted some interest.

After two nights in Wroclaw I’d reached day nine of my 16-day trip, so I now headed westward over mountain roads winding through a forested landscape and into the Czech Republic.

From Liberec I explored the gentle rolling hills and neat, quiet villages of Bohemia. Riding on, I passed a filling station where petrol was priced in Czech Crowns and then a hundred metres or so along the road another displaying prices in Euros. This was the only indication that I’d entered Germany. Doubtless this is quite normal to the locals; perhaps it’s our island mentality that made it seem strange to me.

Sticking to minor roads, I enjoyed riding through towns and villages bypassed by motorways. In this way I found Waldheim in Saxony, a lovely old town where I stopped for lunch. A generation ago eastern block towns were dowdy and in dire need of a lick of paint. Things are entirely different now. Smart prosperity seems the order of the day.

Merino Wool Thermalz – Topz and Pantz

Jetboil

Expedition Pannierz have had a makeover for their tenth birthday.

While the architecture of the Pannierz hasn’t changed, the way they secure to the support frames has. There are four added elements to achieve this. Take a closer look online.

Expedition Panniers

Bahco tools

Extra Length Sokz Adventure Boots

Waterproof Adventure boots from Forma

Trek 3 Sleeping Bag Reactor Thermal Sleeping Bag Liner

facebook.com/andy.strapz

Headliners, Balaclava, Nekz

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READERS’ RIDE

At Colditz I took a tour around the castle. As the only English visitor, I had a guide to myself. Young and pretty, Olsa showed me round and asked if I wanted the whole history or just the wartime part. It was not just to enjoy her company longer that I opted for the former. Only officers who were considered VIPs or were persistent escapers were confined there, but once inside it wasn’t too bad as far as prisoner of war camps go. The worst punishment for an escape attempt was a few days’ solitary confinement in a fair sized room with a view over the town and surrounding countryside. It was a fascinating tour and I was amazed at the ingenuity of the escape methods devised, successful and unsuccessful.

(Never mind what Hollywood would have us believe, the only Americans in Colditz were those who liberated the area in 1945).

It was late afternoon when I left Colditz with more than 100 miles to go to Erfurt, my next stop. As many of the lesser roads in the former DDR have yet

to be brought up to western standards this wasn’t going to be a quick blast, but meandering through the countryside was what I’d anticipated for much of the journey. What I hadn’t planned was the bike playing up. Acceleration seemed to be ok, but the Bonneville misfired and banged and tickover was too low. Had I got water in the petrol, was it the 10% ethanol petrol I’d put in earlier? At the next refuel I put in 98 octane, ethanol free, but it made no difference. Was it an ignition fault, or dampness in the electrics? Thus I wasn’t too cheerful when the satnav misguided me into an industrial yard. It wasn’t far from the hotel, but that took some finding in the dark. The receptionist may also have been disconcerted by the noise my bike was making as he asked if I’d like to stay another night while I had it fixed.

Although an inspection hadn’t revealed anything I assured him that I’d see to it and declined the offer.

In the morning I took another look at the bike with the engine running and instantly saw that the secondary

air induction system hose had come adrift from the induction manifold. I must have dislodged it while selecting reserve fuel. Once refitted, all was well.

Making poor progress on the rural roads I decided to take the Autobahn most of the way to Koblenz, more than 200 miles away. Much of the ride was on a stretch of Autobahn with no speed limit. When riding at a sedate 110 km/h a vehicle that appears small in the mirror when signalling to overtake is apt to be right up your rear and flashing headlights long before you’ve finished.

The weather brightened again as I proceeded west. Two more overnight stops in Germany and one in Belgium completed the trip. An evening sailing from Zeebrugge allowed time to visit Ieper (formerly Ypres) and some of the Flanders war graves. The display in the restored Town Hall is well worth a visit, and requires at least two hours.

Europe has such a variety of landscapes and cultures. What better way to enjoy them than on two wheels? 

Motorcycle Safaris!

ating

r Celeb

ars!

20 yoeunting and c

Inspiring Iceland

Dalmatian Delights Shining Shangri-La

Turkish Treasures

Royal Rajasthan

Himalayan Heights .com.au 66

Moroccan Magic Awesome Andes

Tacos & Tequila!

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Special Feature HELMETS

LOVE YOUR HAIRSTYLE! THAT’S NOT MY HAIR, SILLY, IT’S MY NEW PERSONALISED SAFETY HELMET!

HELMETS BETTER SUAVE THAN SORRY

COMPILED BY THE BEAR, STUART WOODBURY & GUY STANFORD

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HELMETS Special Feature

A

re there some cool helmets out there? Are there what. But there is still a lot of contention about helmets in Australia. It ought to be oh so simple, rather the way it is in Unzud. If a Kiwi rider is wearing a helmet that displays the stamp of approval of any major international testing lab, it is legal and his or her feathery little head is considered safe. Which, you’d have to say, it is.

Things are different here in Oz. Helmets do not have to meet with the approval of any international testing labs, except those who test for a spurious Australian standard.

Make no mistake: the Australian standards are not “better” than any of the international ones. They’re only different.

But hey, it’s not all doom and gloom. There are some most worthwhile innovations in helmets from various manufacturers – we look at those below – and there are some interesting new helmets both at the top of the market and further down in the economy seats. We look at some of those, too.

And we know that some of you are not even remotely interested in the whole helmet kerfuffle; all you want is an idea of which bloody brain bin to buy so you won’t get hassled by the cops. Well, we’re addressing your requirements, too.

As you’re probably aware, the helmet “situation”, in other words the legality of the bubble of fibreglass, carbon fibre or plastic on your head, has been precarious lately. Some helmets have been legal here but not there, some have not been legal at all but were happily accepted by Mr Plod, some… well, it’s been a bit like Free Money Day at the Stock Exchange, except in reverse.

As always you can rely on us for a sensible and considered explanation – so here it is. If such a thing is possible…

LEGAL HATS

Beware – you will probably need a lie down after reading this. We did.

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WHICH HELMETS ARE LEGAL?

Currently, none. Sounds dumb? Read on. There are plenty of safe helmets on sale and in use by riders, but none of them are “legal” when in use on roads.

You don’t need an obvious accessory to have a “non compliant helmet”.

Recently, we have seen riders being issued infringements for “noncompliant helmet” when riding with an accessory on their Australian certified helmet, such as a dark visor or a sports camera. This attracts three demerit points and fine of around $300.

In some cases where riders have chosen to have the fine contested in court, the Police prosecution has withdrawn the infringement. Others have been offered a “Section 10”, where they are required to plead guilty, but have no offence recorded. These latter ones have been claimed by Police as having proven their case, yet the matter was never argued.

We’d like to thank LHD Lawyers for assistance with NSW cases and Maurice Blackburn with Victorian cases. It’s a costly business to contest a fine of dubious merit.

Compliance with Road Rule 270 is impossible due to impossibility of compliance with the helmet standard when the helmet is being used.

Road rules require “compliance with” the helmet standard. Compliance with the standard requires ALL clauses to be met. Included in these Clauses are “Informative Labelling” and “Instructions for Use and Care”, which accompanied the helmet at point of purchase. These may be on a printed film across the visor, or a booklet attached to the chin-strap with a rubber band, or on the bottom of the box. Detaching these renders the helmet non-compliant with the Standard when in use.

Compliance with the Standard is required for helmets offered for sale.

Section 194 of the Australian Consumer Law 2011 is very clear. It is an offence to offer for sale, any helmet that does not comply with the C’th mandatory standard. The ACCC website www.productsafety.gov.au provides details.

To add confusion, the Commonwealth mandatory standard makes variations to a specific voluntary standard (AS 1698-1988) to create the mandatory standard. (A voluntary Standard is any Standard published by Standards Australia.)

Helmets available in local shops are not compliant with either of these.

Helmets in shops comply with the quite different voluntary Australian standard AS/NZS 1698:2006, which uses different headforms and different test methods.

States and Territories have changed their road rules to include AS/NZS 1698:2006, despite conflict with the Australian Consumer Law 2011. In every case, the change to add AS/NZS 1698:2006 to road rules was done without any public consultation or any effort to follow COAG principles of Better Regulation.

Hence, a rider must be party to an illegal transaction in order to buy a helmet that might comply with the road rules.

Road Rules in NSW and Victoria have additional requirements for stickers from a limited group of certifiers.

Again, this change was done behind closed doors, with no public consultation.

This has failed to improve helmet safety and restricted market participation by simply ejecting a number of companies from the market.

SA, ACT, WA and Tasmania require helmet stickers that simply don’t exist.

Attempts to justify this situation are laughable and unacceptable, but only riders have been penalised for this cluster muck of bad law.

There are no “in-service” regulations for accessories like communicators, dark visors, cameras, Mohawks, fancy paint jobs, etc. There is no requirement for a visor to have a compliance mark.

The Australian Motorcycle Council (AMC) has doubts as to whether a number of helmets in shops actually comply with the standard claimed.

At the time of writing the ACCC is investigating these.

The AMC and its member organisations have made headway in

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resolving some issues. These include blocking an Amendment to AS/NZS 1698:2006 that would have weakened the standard and obtaining intervention by the Commonwealth to do so, resulting in the Helmets Forum held in February this year. The ACCC is currently reviewing the mandatory standard and road authorities are also considering change. Queensland now allows use of European helmets (ECE 22-05), but these are just as illegal to sell in shops as helmets in compliance with AS/NZS 1698:2006 and not legal to use in any other state.

The AMC has brought attention to misleading so-called advice and progress is now being made, at glacial pace.

See the Motorcycle Council of NSW website at http://www.mccofnsw.org. au/a/232.html for further details.

Common sense must be your guide.

Currently it is impossible to have a discussion on helmet safety. We’re reduced to discussions about stickers.

All we really have at present is brand reputation.

The AMC sees little need for market protectionism for helmets. But the AMC

does see a strong need for enforceable reliability and transparency of helmet certification processes. As riders, we put enormous faith in our helmet. We want a provable reality.

The Australian Motorcycle Council Helmets Committee comprises State rider delegates from MRA WA, Victorian Motorcycle Council (VMC), MCC of NSW and MRA Qld. Our thanks to Guy Stanford, who made (some) sense of the madness for us all.

HJC

$679.90 (Lorenzo Monster Replica) This is the top of the line helmet from HJC, as worn by Jorge Lorenzo. It features advanced P.I.M. construction (Carbon Fibre, Aramid, Fibreglass and Organic Fibre), is Pinlock prepared with a flat racing visor with centre lock, has ACS (Advanced Channelling Ventilation System), a silver cool plus interior and is available in sizes XS-2XL.

www.mcleodaccessories.com.au

RPHA-10 Price - From $509.90 (Solids) to

In short: • • • • •

No certainty at law for helmets Riders issued fines for non-offences Road Rules impossible to comply with Conflict between Sale and Use laws Review of Sale and Use laws under way

WHAT IF I GO OS?

Many of the helmets sold in Australia are legal overseas anyway. If you do have one that has no approval other than the Australian one, you should still be okay. Generally speaking, it is fine to wear a helmet that’s legal in the country whose bike licence you are using. But then I have never had my helmet checked overseas. It might be worth talking to the NRMA or your local auto club if you’re going somewhere unusual, like Iraq…

WHAT’S NEW

Helmets improve all the time, just like tyres. Better aerodynamics, materials and features. Here is the latest and greatest from most of the helmet manufacturers available in Australia. Some distributors didn’t get their information in on time, hence they are not here. Next time. Oh, and we’ve taken the manufacturer’s or distributor’s word for the features and so on – for obvious reasons we couldn’t test all of the helmets.

FG17 Price - From $379.90 (Solids), $389.90 (Force Graphic) $399.90 (Mamba and Lorenzo Replicas) Made from a fibreglass composite construction with a wind tunnel tested design, Pinlock prepared centre lock visor, silver cool plus

interior and available in sizes XS-2XL.

IS-17 Price - From $309.90 (Solids), $379.90 ( Graphics, Genesis, Spark,

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HELMETS Special Feature

(Metallic colours), $849.90 (Graphics) A light sports/race helmet with an AIM+ composite shell, compact lightweight aerodynamic design, 4 shell sizes, removable 3D Max-dry II liner, dual layer multi-density EPS with channelled ventilation, EQRS safety system, new rigid CWR-1 visor, Pinlock included, 5 year warranty

Intake) $399.90 (Lorenzo Replicas) Made from an advanced PC composite shell, featuring a 3 lever internal sun

visor, Pinlock equipped centre lock visor, tool-less visor replacement system, sunglasses groove, silver cool interior and available in sizes XS-2XL.

CS-R2 Price - From $189.90 (Solids), $199.90 ( Graphics, Guardian, Injector, Intake) $249.90 (Lorenzo Spartan Replica).

A full MotoGP spec helmet, as worn

by Marc Marquez, the X-Twelve is made from an AIM+ composite shell with multi-density dual layer EPS, MotoGP level ventilation and aerodynamics, removable 3D max dry race liner, EQRS safety system, CW-1 visor (Pinlock included), 5 year warranty and available in 4 shell sizes and fitting sizes ranging from XS-XL.

GT-AIR Price - $839.90 (Solid/Metallic colours), $899.90 (Graphics) A premium sports/touring helmet that features an internal QSV-1 sunvisor, AIM+ composite shell, 4 shell sizes, removable 3D Max-dry liner, EQRS safety system, noise cancelling technology, 5 piece multi-density dual layer EPS with channelled ventilation, CNS-1 visor with Pinlock included, a 5 year warranty and is available in sizes XS-2XL.

and is available in sizes XXS-2XL. Stuart uses an NXR on the road and racetrack – he loves it!

HORNET ADV ADVENTURE Price - $879.90 (Solids), $899.90 (Metallic colours), $999.90 (Graphics) Shoei’s new leader in the adventure

Made from an advanced PC composite shell with a tool-less visor replacement system, advanced ventilation system, plush Nylex interior and available in sizes XS-2XL.

SHOEI

www.mcleodaccessories.com.au

X-TWELVE Price - $929.90 (Solids), $1049.90 (Graphics), $1099.90 (Replicas)

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NXR Price - $749.90 (Solids), $779.90

helmet category, this new helmet surpasses all others (according to Stuart), and features an AIM+ composite shell, super aerodynamic design with enhanced peak and shell stability, 4 shell sizes, dual layer multi-density EPS with channelled ventilation, removable 3D Max-dry

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II liner, EQRS safety system, new CNS-2 visor with the new premium Pinklock EVO included, a 5 year warranty and is available in sizes XS-2XL.

SHARK www.ficeda.com.au SPEED R CARBON II Price - $629.95 The real wild child available in a full carbon finish. An even more assertive look for lower weight. The wind tunnel tested double blade air spoiler allows the air to flow above and below the blade for great stability.

This helmet is constructed from

with all of the market leading technology that the Shark name is synonymous with. Constructed from carbon aramid fibre and multi axial glass fibre, bamboo based material interior, Sharktooth compatible, easy fit system, so you can comfortably ride while wearing glasses, and a quick release visor system with a tinted sun visor.

EVOLINE PRO CARBON Price - $799.95 Evoline Pro Carbon is a flip

Whether you’re commuting to the office, adventure riding through the hills, touring with your mates, cruising alone, racing on the track or riding in the pouring rain the Explore R is the helmet that offers as much in performance as it does in style.

The Explore R can easily change between a full-face and trail-style helmet by simply attaching the visor and goggles. The Explore R features a lightweight carbon aramid fibre and multi-axial glass fibre shell with a removable peak, drop-down sunglass visor and removable clear visor.

DUCATI www.ducati.com.au CORSE SBK14 & THEME Price - $799 Designed exclusively for Ducati and produced by Arai on the Vector-II shell. The graphics on the ‘Theme’

carbon aramid fibre and multiaxial glass fibre featuring Shark’s easy fit comfort lining which also accommodates all types of glasses, and the Speed R is Sharktooth Bluetooth compatible.

front helmet constructed from a combination of carbon aramid fibre and multi axial glass fibres, with a natural bamboo fibre. It has an outside visor with an anti-fog coating and an integrated internal UV380 anti-scratch sun visor.

EXPLORE R Price - $599.95 (Graphic),

HERITAGE Price - $349.95 (Graphic), $329.95 (Blank) The Heritage open face is equipped

$579.95 (Blank) A versatile helmet designed to keep your head safe no matter how challenging the conditions are.

have been styled to pair with technical riding apparel from the Ducati Sport collection, while the Corse SBK14 incorporates the Ducati Corse logo. Available in sizes XS-2XL.

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HELMETS Special Feature

NOLAN www.ronangel.com.au

PROUD 14, SHIELD 14, THUNDER 14

N-104 EVO

Price - $899 Three nice variations of this Ducati designed by Arai helmet. The external shell is created with ScLc (Super complex Laminate construction)

Price - $499-$549

LOGO 14 Price - $699 Designed for an urban riding position, the Logo 14 helmet is produced in laminate fibreglass and has a removable and washable interior. The total black look and embossed Ducati logo add a touch of

A flip-up helmet with sporty looks and high levels of features and comfort like a drop down internal tinted visor. Available in sizes XS-2XL.

N86 Price - $299-$369 A true sports helmet with the added

unmistakable Ducati style.

Available in sizes XS-XL.

STRADA TOUR 2

technology, it has a removable chin spoiler, chin air vent and free flow system, emergency release system and is available in sizes XS-2XL.

Price - $899 The Strada Tour 2 helmet in its 4th generation, used with or without peak, with or without visor, or with the combination of both, is versatile and suitable for multiple riding styles. Available in sizes XS-2XL.

comfort of touring features such as a drop down internal tinted visor.

Available in sizes XS-2XL

N64 Price - $199-$249

RACING STRIPE Price - $1250 The Racing Stripe brings a new look to the Ducati Corse riding apparel collection. The graphics take style cues from the 2014 Ducati Corse leather suit and will look great when paired with any of the Ducati Corse technical apparel. Available in sizes XS-2XL.

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A sports helmet with an exceptional quality / price ratio. Available in sizes XS-XL.

N44 Price - $379 - $419

The N-41 has been a long term favourite open face helmet in the Australian market. Available in sizes XS-2XL.

N21 Price - $199-$309 A classically designed open face helmet with the added protection of head cooler, this helmet is a good allrounder. Available in sizes XS-XL.

JET X Price - $99 A jet fighter styled helmet with an

A Multi-Configuration design with aggressive styling and high feature levels. The Bear wears his N44 every day and just about everywhere he goes on a motorcycle! Available in sizes XS-2XL.

N40 Price - $349 A modern classic styled helmet with

a full visor or available as a Vintage look short cut look. Comes in sizes XS-2XL.

XRH www.bce.net.au ROLA Price - $99 This helmet is one of the lowest profile legal for road use helmets in

interchangeable multi position visor.

Available in flat black or gloss white with carbon look inserts. Available in sizes XS-XL.

CRUISER X Price - $69.95 A minimalist style helmet which is great for those hot summer days

multi-configuration design that makes it the most versatile helmet on the market. Available in sizes XS-2XL.

N41 Price - $179 Australia. It has a comfortable lining and is available in Matt Black with or without studs and sizes XS-2XL.

DUAL X Price - $89.95 Combo of an open face with a full face shield. Fitted with extra front and rear absorbent padding to keep your

or rides around town. The strap is designed so that the helmet won’t lift while riding. Available in sizes XS-XL.

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HELMETS Special Feature

a fibreglass composition. Stuart has one but oddly only wears it rarely.

Available in sizes XS-2XL.

CHOPPER Price - $149.95 Lightweight touring and commuting helmet with a ¾ length integrated flip

ROAD RAGER Price - $99 For those who like a full face helmet at a very attractive price, the Road Rager comes with good features, three different colour schemes and is available in sizes XS-XL.

with road features such as adjustable air vents, variable aerodynamics with a removable spoiler, and increased comfort - yet achieves this without sacrificing the performance standards of the GP model. Available in sizes XS-2XL.

ZORROS www.zorros.net.au

K-3 SV

CLASSIC Price - $149.95 Classic pudding basin or café racer

Price - $259.95 - $299.95 The K-3 SV was developed from the down visor. Made from a lightweight ABS construction and features a removable comfort liner. Available in sizes XS-XL.

AGV www.cassons.com.au AX-8 EVO DUAL Price - $449.95-$499.95 The AX-8 EVO Dual is an extremely versatile helmet for both on- and off-

style helmet made from fibreglass to allow easy repainting in your favourite design. It also has a goggle strap retainer at the rear of the helmet. Available in sizes XS-2XL.

experience AGV gained during the design process of the Pista GP and Corsa helmets at a more affordable price point. Available in sizes XS-XL.

GERMAN

RP60

Price - $69.95 ADR approved German style helmet with attitude and style, made from

Price - $179.95 - $199.95 The design of the RP60 is absolutely

road use with all the performance and comfort of a road model. Available in sizes XS-2XL.

CORSA Price - $949.95 - $1049.95 A helmet that combines the performance of the ‘Pista GP’ helmet

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faithful to helmets from the ‘50s and ‘60s, characterised by a clean, rounded shell, on which there are three press studs in the front and a ring to hold the goggles on the back.

Edges and coverage of polystyrene in faux leather accentuate the vintage effect and further enhance the product. Available in sizes XS-XL.

street helmet. The helmet you’d build if you wanted to treat yourself to a dream, they say. Available in sizes XS-XL.

XD4 Price - $699.95 - $799.95 All new with loads more features, excellent aerodynamics and Arai’s 5mm peel-away temple pads, which

ONEAL www.cassons.com.au SIERRA DUAL SPORT Price - $189.95 - $209.95 Features of this well priced adventure helmet include an aerodynamic and lightweight shell construction, adjustable mouth, brow and rear

ARAI www.cassons.com.au CT-Z Price - $549.95 The new CT-Z has a radical peak design which channels air while providing day-long shade and also

add another level of customisation, providing a little extra width when needed. Available in sizes XS-2XL.

VECTOR 2 features Arai’s exclusive 5mm peelaway custom-fit layer, giving you even more ability to craft the perfect fit and comfort for your face. Available in sizes XS-2XL.

Price - $549.95 - $649.95 Featuring a new fully-removable liner, new chin vent design, new HyperRidge design, new oversize front

vents for a total of 17, and an integrated flip-down inner sun visor.

The shield can be removed to allow open face riding or goggle use, a removable and washable comfort liner and cheek pads are included and it’s available in sizes XS-2XL.

THH www.cassons.com.au T-70 Price - $79.95 - $89.95 The new T-70 is the latest shorty

DEFIANT Price - $629.95 - $729.95 A claimed new benchmark in comfort, quiet, stability and ventilation in a

intake vent + larger side exhaust ports and a new wider eye port, the Vector 2 has all that you want and nothing you don’t. Available in a massive range of sizes - 2XS-3XL.

design helmet to replace the older T-5 and T69 helmets in the THH range.

Available in sizes XS-2XL.

T-380 Price - $69.95 A basic open face helmet available in

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HELMETS Special Feature

carbon fibre technology – stronger and lighter and featuring a 5 point multi-position ratchet visor system, aerodynamic shape and Aerotech technology that reduces noise and turbulence, 3 air vents and 2 rear air exhaust vents, removable and washable interior lining, tool-less visor removal, Pod-less anti-scratch clear visor and optional dark tint, light tint and coated silver visors.

Available in sizes XS-2XL.

cheek pads. Available in sizes 2XS-2XL.

APEX Price - $99.95 - $109.95 Another well-priced helmet with all

DOMINATOR + a range of styles and sizes 2XS-3XL.

TX-13

Price - $149.95 - $159.95 A well-priced helmet with all the latest features including an internal

Price - $119.95 - $129.95 A low cost adventure helmet with

that you want and nothing you don’t.

The Apex also features a 3D Coolmax removable and washable liner.

Available in sizes 2XS-2XL.

TSS TOURTECH Price - $199.95 A flip-up helmet for this price! Rjays give you the TSS Tourtech which has the features of helmets costing drop down tinted visor. Available in sizes 2XS-3XL. a removable and washable liner.

Available in sizes XS-2XL.

RJAYS www.rjays.com.au CFK-1 Price - $319.95 - $339.95 Constructed with state of the art

NAVONA Price - $139.95 - $149.95 The new Rjays Navona is the latest in European design. Action packed with its super light weight construction, TSS internal shield and removable head liner and

lots more along with the drop down internal tinted visor and space for an intercom unit in the left cheekpad.

Available in sizes 2XS-2XL.

NEVER MIND ALL THAT;

What helmet should I buy??

It is literally impossible to answer

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this question, even if we sit down with you for an afternoon of beers and try to winkle out every bit of even remotely relevant informash… infromar… interfore… But when did the impossibility of a task ever stop us? Never! Well, not at first, anyway…

So let’s look at the mega data here, that is the things we need to consider, stripped of relevance to any particular brand. Isn’t government propaganda wonderful?

Except for them, we would never have known about mega data!

What do you mean, a good thing too?

For a start, if you already have a helmet and it is more than three (3) years old, consider replacing it. Various bits of it deteriorate at different rates, but after three years or so, the entire helmet is no longer as safe as it was when you bought it. The foam liner will have been compressed, the shell has likely had a few bangs and scratches, and at one time or another, various solvents have worked their evil tasks on the shell too, even if only in dilution. Stickers (we know you; of course you put stickers on the shell – we do) may have weakened the material of the shell and repeated tugging and inaccurate clicking has buggered the straps and the lock.

Buy a new helmet, all right?

MANY REASONS

And so we segue into our main story: which new helmet, Bear?

There are, of course, a lot of different reasons for choosing a particular helmet. They range from personal vanity and delusions of grandeur – expressed by buying a replica Rossi helmet – to a critical shortage in the wallet area – expressed by buying a non-branded plain flat black open-face… thing.

All of these things matter, and if I’ve made it look as if I disdain people who buy Rossi helmets then I take it back. Motorcycling needs heroes, and if you want to express your hero worship in the colour of your helmet

(and want to contribute a few extra bucks to the manufacturer and the hero whose helmet is replicated – then go for it. Think of this – replica helmets will generally be of good quality because only big companies can afford to sponsor top riders and big companies tend to make good helmets.

But what is a good helmet?

Well, I have only ever visited one helmet factory, Nolan, and I reckon I’m safe in saying that Nolan helmets are good ones. They make everything – shells, liners, visors, foam liners themselves, in Italy, they have clean and efficient assembly lines and they test their own helmets with a thing like a small air pressure cannon.

Bang! Whoo!

MANY BRANDS

I presume that any other reputable helmet factory will look much the same, and that as a result helmets from Shoei, Arai, BMW, Zeus, Shark and so on will also be good ones. They all need to pass the Australian Standards test, too, if I understand the legal confusion at the moment. And although I have my problems with that test, it does set a minimum of effectiveness for helmets approved in Australia.

So all helmets meet a minimum standard. Why pay more than the few bucks for which you can get a crash hat, if it doesn’t add to the value?

Well, because it does add to the value. Just because something meets the same basic standard as something else doesn’t mean that it’s the same. More expensive helmets offer more comfort, higher quality, additional features and an opportunity to support your favourite racer. As I’ve suggested above, you can buy one of their replica helmets. More comfort comes from better materials and additional research into shape and details; higher quality means lower weight and longer-lasting paint jobs and so on; and additional features include such things as the exceptional

peripheral vision of my Nolan N44 and improved ventilation.

Which is not to say you shouldn’t buy a less expensive helmet. That’s certainly better than continuing to wear an old and unsafe one.

There is a place in the market for every helmet, at every price point.

I personally wear specific helmets because they offer particular features – like peripheral vision, low weight or good ventilation – and they usually end up being moderately expensive. I also wear helmets to test them, and that includes stack hats at all sorts of prices.

SHH!!

Now, you might have noticed that I didn’t include “quietness” as one of the features to consider. There is a simple reason: sound levels vary inside a helmet depending on your bike (does it, for instance, have a fairing?), your seating position (do you sit upright or slouch), the shape of your head, the speeds you normally do and so on. There are some helmets which are definitely quieter than others, but there’s always the danger that they might, under certain circumstances, be too quiet… It’s a can of worms.

And of course the trouble is that no shop will allow you to ride off for an hour or so to test a helmet for noise on your bike, with your riding style and at your speeds. Just think of what the next potential buyer would think if he was offered a helmet that someone had already worn for a significant time. I think not.

So can we make any recommendations at all?

Try helmets from different manufacturers until you find one that fits – or is preferably a little too tight, allowing it to wear in.

Choose one that suits your budget, keeping in mind that you will ideally be replacing it in three years. Don’t buy a second-hand helmet, and don’t buy purely on price. You could be very sorry indeed if it proves to be uncomfortable. PT 

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PUB OF THE MONTH

THE TOP PUB RAVENSHOE HOTEL, RAVENSHOE QLD WORDS/PHOTOS COLIN WHELAN

RATED 3 OUT OF 5 HELMETS

I

’ve been to some low pubs in Queensland (don’t get me started!) and as I sat despondent in an Innisfail café with the tropical rain pumping down and without any real planned destination, I figured it was time to sample something a bit more upmarket.

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I wanted to taste not just a top pub, but THE top pub in the state. And that meant Ravenshoe, the highest town in Queensland whose top pub had to be, well, the toppest pub.

With the rain incessant, the best twisty road in FNQ, the Gillies, seemed not a great option so I headed down to Innisfail and then took the Palmerston.

This too is a great road and its more gentle curves were much more suited to the downpours, the road ponds and creeks and the vagaries of traffic.

By the time I got to Ravenshoe the rain had pretty much cleared but I still had enough water in each boot to fill a pony glass.

So I pull up and check out the pub’s façade.

It’s grand and impressive, rough, utilitarian but majestic; a very typical rural Queensland pub, and its yellow paint aglow in the afternoon sun reminds me of Freeland’s words in his ever so slightly condescending 1966 book, “The Australian Pub”: (The

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Help with breakfast

Australian Pub)…has never been looked upon… as a cultural achievement. Its innate uncouthness made it unworthy of the finer things of architectural life.”

Bollocks! This is a wonderful building!

Emblazoned on the front, between the pub’s name and its scripted, “Welcome to Queensland’s Highest Pub” is a statement of such exactitude that any pedant’s heart would be warmed: ‘Elevation of… 3003.99ft’. “.99” of a foot!! What? Jeeves, pass me my sextant and plumbob, surely

there’s a spare .01 of a foot laying around somewhere!

This weird mixing of imperial and decimal (the above figure is converted from a metric one), this inexplicable exactitude is fascinating. I like a place that knows its position in life! I like a place which considers rounding up, approximation, to be, er, beneath them!

I empty my boots of water and feet (2 to be precise), bung on some thongs and head into the bar where both the fire and the conversations are raging.

If you’re hungry in the morning Wendy’s happy to cook you up breakfast but you may want to save her the trouble.

Back in June the community of Ravenshoe suffered a terrible tragedy when a car smashed into one of its cafes and caused gas cylinders to explode.

Horrific injuries to many resulted and to date two victims have died. It’s feared others may not make it.You get the sense on the street that Ravenshoe is still hurting.

Two cafes on the town’s single street remain and serve damn fine fodder. Just maybe the best thing we, as riders can do, is visit the town and add some of our hard-earned into this tiny economy by spreading it around the shops and tossing a bit of folding into the many collection boxes.

Helping this town is no sacrifice, you’ll love every moment.

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PUB OF THE MONTH

A lot of the noise is coming from the woman behind the bar.

Wendy, the owner/publican/licensee/ boss, immersed in faux pearls and real laughter, is serving a couple of couples and a few post-work workers.

She’s loud and raucous. She bubbles like good champers in a dirty flute. I don’t have a booking but there’s room for me despite the honeymoon suite, room 1, having just been taken by one of the barside couples, and besides, she’s not in the habit of giving it to loners like me anyway unless it’s still vacant late into an evening.

Turns out the couple is Grant and Fran, Kiwis on their way to Hughenden to help out a mate who’s doing it tough in the dry out west. And they’re also working with the fantastic group, AussieHelpers.org.au to find some badly drought affected families to host on their mountain retreat near Greymouth on the south island of NZ. The aim is to provide free accommodation but if the family can’t afford the travel, “We’ll chip in for that too,” says Grant. Just talking with them makes me feel good.

The other couple at the bar are long time friends of Wendy and her partner Wayne. Joe and Jude run a small rural retreat up near Yungaburra where they hold cheese making classes. Like the Kiwis they are passionate and enthusiastic. This is obviously a pub that brings out the best people and the best out of people.

I get a merlot from a pretty good selection of wines and take a poke around.

The pub was built in 1927 by Wendy’s great-grandfather as a present for his wife who became the first publican.

She was the first non-indigenous child born in Ravenshoe and a beautiful old portrait of her has pride of place in the grand old dining room off from the bar.

Its opening was delayed by cyclone damage but when this highest pub in Queensland, proudly hewn from local timbers finally opened its doors on Sept 10th 1927 it had a full 27 rooms of accommodation, compared to the current 16.

It’s had more name changes than a Rubyvale dirt scratcher, beginning

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as The Ravenshoe Hotel then the Millstream then the Tully Falls and now back to its original. That’s the way Wendy and Wayne like it: they are trying to infuse the present with the past being modern but keeping the traditions and the heritage.

After a few years in the mines, Wendy bought the pub right on two years ago.

She tells me it was a decision based on sentiment rather than sound business reasons. “It’s a passion thing,” she tells me. Her parents and siblings all live in Ravenshoe and she wanted to be near them and felt the pub needed some TLC. Tender loving care is exactly what it’s getting as Wendy and Wayne push all their savings and profits into the revival of this grand hotel.

I take myself on a tour.

At the bottom of the stairs, just inside the main doors, is a small display of an old gramophone and some photos and documents. It’s all simple and tasteful and gives a warm old worlde welcome. Just off to the side is the grand dining room complete with another log fire and I can’t now wait for dinner!

Upstairs the rooms are all clean and quite spacious and the common areas are wonderful and comfortable.

There’s no air-con but all rooms have pedestal fans and heaters are available, not that I can see them getting too much use.

Single rooms will set you back $45.00 whilst doubles or twins run from $55.00 to $65.00.

As far as I could make out all the beds were the same height so if you want to claim to’ve slept in the highest hotel bed in Qld, simply stick a book or two under the legs of your bed and send off that letter to Guinness!

The brew making stuff is all still out on the balcony because the four cool evenings which constitute winter here, hadn’t yet arrived. Great spot for that first coffee in the morning!

The bathrooms are clean and well maintained but the good hot water didn’t spew out with a huge amount of pressure.

The common areas are well furnished with comfortable sofas and the over-

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PUB OF THE MONTH

LEAVE HOME WITHOUT...

» Weighs only 570g » Inflate a low or flat tyre quickly and safely

Ultra Compact Pocket Pump

» Ideal for use on motorcycles, ATV’s and scooters

Tubeless Tyre Repair

4

GS

I REP

AI

ES

U NCL D

R PLU

» Made in the USA from billet 6061 aluminum » Lightweight. No reaming. No glue. » Store spare plugs in the end cap

Precision Noise Filtration

NEW GENERATION HEARING EARIN PROTECTION

riding impression is one of relaxation and homeyness.

This would be a great destination pub for a group ride.

There’s a shed out back for locking up bikes but as usual I just park mine under the balcony out front and have no problems.

Downstairs, the bar is filling and orders begin to be taken for dinner. Locals waft in from one side as kitchen scents waft in from the other. There’s no smell of over-used deepfry oil and fat as there is in so many places which simply order in precrumbed, pre-battered frozen rubbish. Not here there ain’t!

This is a place to bring a damn good appetite because its menu has food, real food and lots of it!

It’s easily the most extensive that I’ve ever seen in a country pub: It runs to 8 pages and features oysters done three ways, mackerel done three ways, a full page of chicken and a full page of beef. There’s a page of lamb and a duck marsala. The vegetarian page has 3 entrees and five mains. All cooked by an expert Indian chef and available lunch and dinner 7 days a week. Never seen anything like it.

I go for a curry entrée followed by chicken avocado pasto and it’s all cooked perfectly. I eat it with beautiful ornate cutlery, drink from crystal and find the quality and taste all somehow surreal. Some pubs are adventures, some are simply undiluted enjoyment. This is one of the latter.

Back at the bar after dinner the boss is still holding court, laughter floods the bar and all are having a great night. I retire well fed, well watered and well happy! I’ve found not just a top pub, but THE top pub.

The Ravenshoe Hotel rated a solid three helmets on our scale and came in at over 150 on our value scale where 100 is the benchmark.

On our all new Unique Character Scale I put it at 7/10.

Our Schooner of Full index was $5.00.

The Ravenshoe Hotel Grigg St, Ravenshoe (Keep going up the hill!)

T: 7 40976136 Ask for Wayne or Wendy.

Links to Jude ‘n’ Joe’s Cheese Farm and to Grant and Fran’s NZ Retreat can be found on my website at www.motorbikenation.com Full Disclosure: The next morning Wendy insisted on shouting me the room but this hasn’t affected my review. I dropped the 45 into the collection box at the BP servo on the edge of town.

ESTE

FRE E

E

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T D LY » Reduces wind & road noise » Enhances situation awareness SI L I C O N » Comfortable, washable & re-usable » Allows communication & intercom use •

SEE THESE AND ALL NEW PRODUCTS ON OUR WEBSITE

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Designing readers!

After my review last month of the Toompine Hotel, I received a message from on high that we need to consider more fully the unique character of some pubs. I fully agreed but I’m now looking for a logo or emblem or icon or somesuch that we can use to designate character.

Surely one of our readers is gifted in this area and can come up with something. Remember this is not bike related but pub personality related and would need to complement the helmet icon we use when rating the biker friendliness of pubs.Winner will receive a… very warm feeling in the tummy! 

www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au

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LONG TERMERS

POWERFUL MAGIC

FAIRY GODMOTHER HAS BEEN GOOD TO US!

YAMAHA MT-07 EJK FUEL CONTROLLER Price - $349

G

etting your bike to perform at its best is easier than you might think. Dobeck has the EJK Fuel Controller, which is available

for many different models and an easy “plug ‘n’ play” type system, requiring no computer. It does not interfere with the standard ECU, either, so we decided to grab one and fit it to our long term MT07 and feel the difference.

The EJK Fuel Controller is a load based system. You might be familiar with the Dynojet (Power Commander)

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LONG TERMERS

unit, which is an Alpha-N Tuning based system. There are three main differences between the two units - Alpha-N Tuning takes into account Throttle Position (TPS) and RPM to construct a grid to fill in fuel values. Load based tuning takes into account Fuel Flow Rate, TPS and RPM to construct three main zones for fuel adjustment. Most of the controllers on the market use Alpha-N Tuning because it is the easiest way to make calculations. Load based tuning takes more advanced calculations and breaks a drive cycle down into easy to understand zones to allow for quicker and more precise adjustments – resulting in a much better performing motorcycle.

The EJK Fuel Controller allows on-the-fly tuning capabilities, but

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be careful how you interpret ‘onthe-fly’ tuning because a number of products like to claim this ability.

Dobeck (EJK) products all have true ‘on-the-fly’ tuning. You can make fuel adjustments in your garage, in your mate’s garage, on the side of the road and even (be careful) while riding the vehicle (although we don’t recommend this method!). The tuning changes are made instantaneously! So you can play as much as you like, and if you stuff it up, you can reset it, or readjust to a previous setting you’d already recorded on a piece of paper (didn’t you!).

Fitment of the EJK Fuel Controller took around an hour. I had to remove the tank covers and lift the tank up to get to the injector plugs and run the

wiring. Depending on your particular bike, this could take a little less, or a lot more time, but the EJK controller is easy to install no matter what bike you have. Instructions for fitment are supplied and easy to follow. Some of the bikes listed on the EJK website even have installation videos, as the MT-07 model listed does.

The controller comes preset as a “Stage 1” type setting, assuming you have already fitted an aftermarket exhaust and/or a freerflowing air filter, like the DNA air filter also available from Dobeck distributor Kenma.

Once the controller was fitted I took the MT-07 for a spin around the block and was instantly impressed with the smoother acceleration and extra power. I then decided to play with the settings to see just how much more power and torque could be extracted from this awesome bike. I looked at the EJK website www.electronicjetkit. com and found a variety of settings for various stages of tune for the MT07 and decided on one very similar to the way I have the MT setup. This involved disconnecting the O2 sensor.

The result – a much fatter midrange.

The bottom end stayed similar to

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YAMAHA MT-07

RIZOMA MAGIC ‘FEEL” LEVERS AND BRAKE FLUID CAPS

Price - $ 140.83 (Euro) each lever Price - $49.17 (Euro) rear fluid cap Price - $32.50 (Euro) front fluid cap

exactly right. As we’ve now fitted the DNA air filter and a Racefit slip-on, I would not hesitate to guess the H2 has picked up at least 15hp. Add that to the standard claim of 210hp, that makes it the fastest motorcycle I’ve ever ridden. Once you get it on full boost, it is insane how fast this thing moves!

DNA air filters are made to strict

standards. DNA also does a lot of testing to find the exact filter material suitable for the particular motorcycle, instead of just using a “standard” type gauze. We have used DNA air filters on a number of bikes over the years and always been highly impressed. Get yourself a DNA air filter from your local bike shop, or visit www.kenma.com.au You’ll love the difference! SW

Continuing the Rizoma magic with the MT-07, we fitted their ‘Feel’ brake and clutch levers, which were simple to fit and give amazing feel, just as the name suggests! The “face” or part of the lever where you squeeze has 3D machining to give you amazing grip and that special feel. The levers also fold up if you happen to crash or bump something and they offer a massive amount of adjustment. This is perfect for Alana’s small hands and my lion’s-paw-like slabs of meat!

Don’t be left lacking feel with your levers, grab a set of Rizoma’s awesome levers and enjoy more comfort and better braking performance, because you have more feel from the front brake.

Walcha Rated as one of Australia’s best ride destinations... Tight hairpins through stunning forest and long sweeping curves on the flats.

come up and

Explore our art, food culture, natural wonders and rich heritage.

Contact the Walcha Visitor Information Centre: P: 02 6774 2460

walchansw.com.au

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LONG TERMERS

Two areas on any motorcycle that usually look bland are the brake fluid reservoir caps. Rizoma offer exquisitely machined billet FW6 Get Routed 3/02/14 4:48 PM Page 1 caps for the MT-07, so we fitted

them up. While they are a subtle touch on the bike, they really do stand out to onlookers – especially once they notice that Rizoma “r” on the front cap. Get all of the

Rizoma products from your local Rizoma dealer and make sure you visit the Rizoma website to get your list ready! www.rizoma.com SW 

BIKE SHIPPING TO EUROPE! Touring Australia can make for some amazing motorcycling experiences. But just imagine the thrill of a European cross-country road trip – on your own bike, and it’s considerably cheaper than travelling in Australia.

We can make it happen...

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• International motorcycle shipping and IoM TT Tour Organiser Our motorcycle shipping destinations are...

• Europe: Felixstowe (UK), Barcelona (Spain), Athens (Greece) • North America: Vancouver (Canada)

For full details of this fantastic tour opportunity contact Dave at Get Routed Phone: (03)or 9351 0612 – ordave@getrouted.com.au email: dave@getrouted.com.au Phone (03) 5625 9080 email 88

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NEW IN THE SHOPS

2

3

TRAVEL WITH SUCCESS Osprey Travel Accessories Keeping your items safe, dry and in good order can make your touring all the more enjoyable, Osprey has a number of high quality cases, sacks

and carriers to make life easier.

Available in all sorts of sizes and colours, the Osprey range is very reasonably priced. To view the range or to find your nearest stockist visit www.outdooragencies.com.au.

A LITTLE, OR A LOT MRA X-Creen X-Creen is an ingenious product by MRA that makes your bike more versatile and comfortable in a wider range of conditions. The X-Creen is an

www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au

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NEW IN THE SHOPS

adjustable spoiler that can either be screwed or clamped onto the existing screen of your pride and joy, allowing you to enjoy more comfort when it counts – commuting or on long trips, when touring and in poor weather. The X-Creen comes in two variations – Sport and Touring. Ask your local bike shop for more information or visit www.

ProAccessories.com.au or call 07 3277 0693.

Pro2 special system for the BMW R 1200 GS / GS Adv. Check out the extensive range of Touratech accessories at www.touratech.com.au or call 03 5929 5529.

TIME TO FLOW Dainese MIG gloves Price - $119.95 It’s starting to warm up, isn’t it? Even though it’s been

MADE FOR ADVENTURE

Touratech Zega Pro2 pannier system A rugged aluminium pannier system that joins form and function in a harmonious unit (that’s what it says here, folks!), combining the advantages of Touratech’s popular special mounting systems with the innovative characteristics of Zega Pro2 panniers – this is the new Zega

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Once you have experienced the joy of heated riding, there is simply no going back...

Superior performance and reliability 5 heat settings Intelligent battery protection Easy to fit, easy to use

A range of selection for all riders, ask your local dealer today

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GET ROUTED NEW ZEALAND Shipping your motorcycle from Australia to New Zealand and return

Contact Clive on P: +61 431 840 127 E: clive@getroutednewzealand.com.au I: www.getroutednewzealand.com.au

www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au

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NEW IN THE SHOPS

Price - $79.95 XenonOZ has made available a high visibility vest that will get you noticed in all sorts of ways. This unisex fitted, lightweight, breathable, fully adjustable quilted hi-vis vest, fastened by a strong front zip is emblazoned with chequered banding and the warning message ‘Polite Notice Think Bike’ on the back. Visit www.xenonoz.com to purchase one, or maybe... not.

DON’T BREAK IT, FIX IT! Brakefix Has your bike ever rolled forward off the sidestand and fallen over? Do you live on a sloping block with a steep driveway? Then consider a BrakeFix, which wraps around the throttle grip of your bike and the front brake lever.

You then adjust the BrakeFix to apply light pressure to the front brake lever, preventing your bike from rolling forward or backwards and potentially falling over. Perfect for all types of bikes, especially scooters. A

Britton Presents a “Bucket List” of adventures Choose from a selection of fabulous locations in New Zealand and International including:

BOLIVIA HIGH ANDES - CUBA -VIETNAM - MONGOLIA BALI BY THE BACKROADS

Most tours are personally led by Mike and Angela with English speaking guides so you experience intriguing back roads and amazing vistas. www.adventurerides.co.nz PHONE: +(64) 21 2849047 EMAIL:mike@adventurerides.co.nz

11

years

Ride roads less travelled

Greece Tour 92

Oct ber OctO 5 - 18

Guided & Self-Guided tours t I bMW Motorcycles & rentals

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www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au

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TOP TOURS & TRAVEL

Motorcycle travel is not about what you’ve got – it’s what you do with it!

WHADDAYA GOT? YOU ASK ZE QUESTIONS

H

ere’s one of those questions we really hate, and it doesn’t help that it comes from (a strangely changed)

Beemer Bob from South Gippsland. I get notes from him on a pretty regular basis, but mostly don’t print them because they’re just rants about how wonderful a certain motorcycle brand is, and how all the others are rubbish.

COMPILED BY THE BEAR

It seems things are changing down in Gippsland!

“Hey Bear,” writes Bob, “I bet you never expected to hear this from me, but I fell in with bad company. Two of my new riding mates have Harleys and

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TOP TOURS & TRAVEL

one has a Victory. The other one has a piece of [deleted in the interests of our health]. I have ridden all the bikes now and some of them are fun, I have to say.

So – what’s the best tourer you can buy, no matter the brand?”

Umm. Gee. I don’t know how to answer that. Stuart – help?

Beemer Bob, “The best tourer you

can buy”? Well, at the end of the day it all depends on personal preference.

You might like one tourer, The Bear might like another, Billy Bloggs might like something else and I might like something totally different. It all comes down to what feels comfy to ride, you like the power output/engine characteristics and so on…

FLOWERS IN YOUR HEAD

highlights of the US American state are on the tour program.

“Typical are the beaches, because on a tour of Florida the famous coastal resorts of Daytona Beach, Palm Beach, Key Largo, Key West, Naples and Fort Myers are a must. The surprising highlights stand in the sign of the superlative (err…), for next to the smallest post office of the USA, also a visit to the most famous shell beach in Sanibel Island is on the program.

“Need more superlatives? Saint Augustine is one of the oldest European settlements in Florida - and of course for the participants of Reuther’s HarleyDavidson Florida Sunshine Tour as well as a highlight as the crossing of

Now that the Ducati media department is producing press releases in English, we have to look a little further for… unusual terminology. But there’s always Reuther’s.

“If you’re going to San Francisco, be sure to wear some flowers in your head...” starts their latest effort. This segues inexplicably into details of the Reuther’s Harley-Davidson Florida Sunshine Tour. Then it becomes a bit more comprehensible, and explains that “the Harley-Davidsons are picked up at the rental station (in Miami). Afterwards the typical and also the most surprising

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However, here is a list of what we consider to be some of the best (in no particular order). BMW R 1200 RT, Triumph Trophy SE, Ducati Multistrada 1200 DVT, Indian Roadmaster and the Yamaha MT-09 Tracer. And there are plenty more we’d like to mention, but it depends on what you like at the end of the day. Cheers, Stuart.

And don’t expect to lose any weight on a US tour… the food’s great. the Saint John’s River, which holds the title as the longest river in Florida. Even a visit to the largest motorcycle dealer in the world in Daytona Beach fits seamlessly into the tour of superlatives.

Of course, shopping is done at no other place than at the world’s largest shopping centre, which is located in Fort Lauderdale.”

Got all that? It actually sounds like a lot of fun; and Reuther’s is offering a 10% discount on the tour price. Contact Reuther-Entertainments, +49-95617059-370 or info@reuthers.com.

www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au

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ADV TEAR-OUT MAP #16

BACK WAY TO THE ROCK EXPERIENCE THE REAL RED CENTRE

T

he real Red Centre? Oh yes; and once you’ve seen the stars out here at Kings Canyon or Uluru, you will know exactly what that means. Not only that. These rides will take you to several of Australia’s unique (and I don’t say that lightly) natural attractions.

What they will not take you to see is the real, actual centre of the Red Centre, the geographical centre of Australia.

For some reason I used to think this was near Central Mt Conner (no doubt due to the name, which appears to have since lost the “Central”), but it is actually considerably further north, roughly halfway between Haasts Bluff and the Tanami Road. I have no idea why I’m telling you this…

Central Australia is a world of its own, and a spectacularly beautiful one. But it is also highly unpredictable – after all, the most attractive human beings also tend to be the most unpredictable ones, don’t they – and can get tough with you without notice. It does rain in the Outback, with occasionally tragic results, and both the summer heat and winter cold can be uncomfortable, to put it lightly. Before tackling this ride, check road and other conditions with the cops on 08 8951 8888 and/or Tourism Central Australia on 08 8952 5800.

ALICE SPRINGS

It’s a complete small city, even though it’s in the middle of the desert.

You’ll find everything you need here, including some kind of representation for every major brand of motorcycle

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sold in Australia. Quite a few things are worth seeing; take a look at the Tourism Central Australia website www.discovercentralaustralia.com. The information centre is on Gregory Terrace and is open from 8.00 to 5.00, weekends and holidays 9.00 to 4.00. We especially like the peaceful Old Telegraph Station, where Alice Springs began.

HERMANNSBURG

KINGS CREEK CARAVAN PARK

This station is the largest exporter of live camels in Australia, but you can get a camel burger at the shop if you really want one… It’s a working cattle station, too, while the shop offers fuel and supplies and there are safari cabins and campsites, as well as – wait for it – Luxury Glamping. See www.kingscreekstation.com.au or ring 08 8956 7474.

Once a Lutheran mission, Hermannsburg is now a pretty major centre for Aboriginal-based tourism.

Fuel and other supplies are available and the historic buildings make an interesting backdrop to a fascinating story of early Australia. Albert Namatjira painted much of the scenery around the town – if you’re a fan of his, a lot will look familiar! The petrol station number is 08 8956 7430 and it’s open 8.30 to 5.30, and 10.00 to 5.30 on Sundays.

CURTIN SPRINGS

GLEN HELEN RESORT

The Cultural Centre is the first place to check out when you visit Uluru - Kata Tjuta National Park; you will get a lot more out of exploring the Park if you understand Anangu culture and this environment. Yulara’s Voyages Ayers Rock Resort (www.ayersrockresort.com.au) has a variety of accommodation, though we suspect that the campsite will be your choice; it is relatively affordable.

Make a point of seeing the Rock at various times of day, to enjoy its colour changes, and don’t miss Kata Tjuta – the rocks here are even more fascinating than the big one. 

Open daily from 7.00 to 10.00, the resort offers a wide range of accommodation and services. Ring the office on 08 8956 7489.

KINGS CANYON RESORT

Public access point to Watarrka National Park and the majestic Kings canyon itself, the Voyages Kings Canyon Resort is open from 6.30 to 9.30 daily and offers fuel and other supplies. See www.kingscanyonresort.com.au, phone number is 08 8956 7442.

Offering both caravan/camping accommodation and rooms as well as a restaurant and bar, Curtin Springs Station of course also has fuel.

Powered sites cost $40 a night, while unpowered campsites are free.

See www.curtinsprings.com or call 08 8956 2906.

YULARA

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BACK WAY TO THE ROCK

ORANGE RIDE This route has been named the Red Centre Way and covers, without the extension to Kata Tjuta, some 630km.

Most of that is tarred, but you will find some 200km of gravel road between Hermannsburg and Kings Canyon. This was supposed to be sealed a decade ago, but the NT government seems to keep running out of money. Fuel is available at Alice Springs, Glen Helen, Hermannsburg, Kings Canyon Resort, Kings Creek Caravan Park, Curtin Springs and Yulara.

You will need a permit to travel through Aboriginal land between Hermannsburg and Kings Canyon. It costs $5 and is available from the Alice Springs Visitor Centre, Glen Helen Resort, the petrol station at Hermannsburg and Kings Canyon Resort.

The NT gummint recommends 4WD vehicles for the 200km of gravel road, but that’s a bit over the top. One comment I read was that “conventional cars have been known to survive the trip”. Versatile road bikes will too (IMHO), although you do need to know what you’re doing when riding on dirt.

My mate Charlie, who’s a local, reckons that “The condition varies so much it is hard to say what it’s like at any given time, but it can have soft sandy patches, bulldust holes and bad corrugations.” You must allow for the extra fuel consumption that comes with dirt riding, too.

As well as the spectacular natural beauty of this route, it takes you past Kings Canyon (a must-see place) and on to Uluru and Kata Tjuta. Both of these are landforms that all Australians, white and black, should see at least once in their lives.

RED RIDE Apart from an opportunity to see a couple of gorges in the MacDonnell Ranges (well worth seeing) along Namatjira drive, this diversion takes you past Glen Helen Resort. Once a cattle station it now offers a variety of accommodation and a good opportunity to get close to the spirit of the Centre. The nearby Mt Sonder does the same colour-changing trick that Uluru performs.

You can swim in the permanent waterhole in Glen Helen Gorge, but beware: a powerful Rainbow Serpent lives in it.

BLUE RIDE Palm Valley is a wonderful place, its peace broken only by the hooves of wild-eyed brumbies and the generators of 4WD owners.

Supposedly, the last 16km into the park is passable only by highclearance 4WDs, but a bike with knobbies should do it. No services, but beautiful campsites (one with hot showers and gas barbecues), exceptional views of rock formations

like the Ampitheatre and a chance to see plants which grow only here.

The riverbed’s sand on the way in can get boggy, so check with Parks & Wildlife on 1800 246 199 before you commit to a visit. And watch you don’t step on palm seedlings; if they don’t regenerate, the palm species will be lost forever.

YELLOW RIDE Whether you tackle the 100km of the Ernest Giles Road from its intersection with Luritja Road to the Stuart Highway will depend on two things. One - do you enjoy twisty, corrugated and poorly maintained dirt roads? And two – are you sure?

I’ve only travelled the western half of the road, and while it is quite passable it is pretty hard work, so be warned. The tarred surface of the Lasseter highway, 60km further south, might be more to your taste. Charlie reckons that this is definitely not recommended for a road bike. But then again, if you’re a full-on endure ride you will probably love the Giles. And if you’re really keen, there is a track that leads up to Larapinta Drive along the Finke River by way of Boggy Hole – actually very pretty! – with no services along it at all. Deep sand warning here, too. An information sheet for this route is available from Tourism Central Australia. 

ADV TEAR-OUT MAP #16 COLLECT THEM ALL AMM_September_Dirt_map.indd 2

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USED & REVIEWED

TOTAL RECALL EVEN ARNIE WOULD APPROVE!

GET YOUR OXI MISED! Oxford Oximiser 3X Price - $169.95

Oxford Products has been around for a long time now and their luggage and heated grips are probably the most well-known of their range, but they also

have a delightful and very useful battery charger/maintainer – the Oximiser 3X. We took charge of one (‘scuse me) and set about trying the various features, using the Yamaha Bolt outfit and H-D Sportster as the platform.

As the Bolt gets ridden only occasionally, the battery does get a bit

of a hard time, so does my Sportster (because we’re always fiddling with it), so having such a versatile and powerful battery maintenance product is exactly what this Bear needed!

Suitable for all 12V automotive batteries, including lithium motorcycle batteries, the 3X Oximiser uses fast and

REACH THE MOST DISCERNING MOTORCYCLISTS IN AUSTRALIA The best Motorcycle Friendly Pub in our Motorcycle Friendly Town Great riding country and perfect for a half-way stop on your trip.

Plenty of reasonably priced group accommodation, from motelstyle accommodation to upstairs rooms. Parking in courtyard.

Go where the locals eat. Fantastic, great value food, including melt-in-your-mouth steaks. Breakfast, lunch and dinner menus, including gluten-free options.

To advertise here email Terri on advertise@ausmotorcyclist.com.au

URALLA

23 Bridge Street, New England Highway, Uralla, NSW 2358 Call Matt on 02 6778 4110 www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au

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USED & REVIEWED

efficient charging in all modes to keep charge times short and reduce power consumption. The Oximiser also has a ‘soft-start’ charging mode that is designed to deliver a slow build-up of charge for the safe recovery of deeply discharged batteries (as low as 8V). The battery on the Sportster happened to be flat as a tack one morning so I connected up the Oximiser and set it to the soft charging mode, by the time I got home that afternoon, the battery was fully charged and I’ve not had a problem since. With the Bolt, I have set the Oximiser to the Bulk Fast Charge setting as the unit indicated the voltage was low. Within ten minutes I had more than enough power to fire up and enjoy the day’s riding. You might think most bears are growling and snarling beasts (Stuart does), but this Bear is certainly a smug and happy one thanks to Oxford! And yes, they used to sponsor my travels in Europe; they’re good people who make good products.

Accompanied by an integrated 8 stage battery management system, the

Oximiser analyses, charges and maintains the battery, keeping it in tip-top condition while it recharges safely and efficiently. The unit itself even has induction cooling to prevent it from overheating, which can happen to other chargers. The charging kit also comes with a range of accessories, including crocodile clips, a weatherproof permanent connector and a wall bracket.

We didn’t have a Lithium battery to try this out on, but with Lithium batteries, you need to consult the manufacturer, you don’t want to burn that expensive battery out! But for “normal” batteries, the Oxford Oximiser 3X comes highly recommended.

See your local bike shop or visit www.ficeda.com.au . I’ll write more on this product as I use the battery for different purposes PT

AND WHILE I THINK OF IT… We know from reader feedback that product information is one of the most sought-after items in these pages.

Your Oasis in the Outback

Bourke's Old Telegraph Hotel is now a deluxe motel with individual heritage king size bedrooms.

Pool, barbeque, great attractions nearby. Secure undercover parking. Bring your group.

Bourke Riverside Motel - 3-13 Mitchell Street, Bourke, NSW 2840 www.bourkeriversidemotel.com.au 02 6872 2539

Manufacturers or distributors who would like their products featured in MOTORCYCLIST Magazine can arrange that in a couple of different ways.

You can send us news of releases, or existing products that you think will interest readers, with a photo or two and a few words and we will consider running that in the New in the Shops section. If you’d like to see your products in Used and Reviewed, please supply them along with basic information and we will try them out.

You can opt to have them returned to you when we’ve finished with them, or you can leave them with us for further use and possible further mention in stories or appearance in photographs.

Warning: We will tell the truth in our reviews. If we think your product is total rubbish, we will return it to you and will not mention it in the magazine.

Should it, however, be dangerous or a ripoff we will still return it but we will also warn our readers about it.

Not that any of you are likely to fall into that category. PT 

Replacement and Custom Cruiser screens

From $140 www.eaglescreens.com.au

SHORT ADELAIDE TOURS ON NEW BENELLIS Don’t have much time? We lead one-day or shorter tours on some of the best roads in the Barossa Valley, Adelaide Hills and Fleurieu Peninsula.

Hire exciting BN600R Benellis.

Visit www.radtours.com.au and click on the TOUR LOCATIONS button.

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CLASSIC MORRIS

LESTER’S KAFFEE KLATSCH COMES WITH A GOLD SEAL GUARANTEE WORDS LESTER MORRIS

O

ver several Millennia, if not for billions of years, the normal course of Evolution has seen many basic design changes taking place, either through necessity or simply because an original design didn’t quite work as well as it might. Throughout the eons the changes in many of those original designs have happened to twolegged animals like us; it has happened to internal – infernal? - combustion engines; it has happened to motorized transport designed for two wheels or four; it has happened in buildings and it has happened even more dramatically in the designs of aircraft, essential life-saving drugs and other medical supplies.

Because of the practicalities of their uses cups, saucers, plates, saucepans and motorcycle handlebars have remained pretty static in their design for ages, and currently show no signs of being re-designed in a big way for any reason; even for the sake of change itself. It must be admitted, however, that the shapes and sizes of these essential devices have subtly changed often enough – and not always for the better; especially with regard to some ape-hanger motorcycle handlebars!

And now there has been a very subtle design change in one of the most basic components of our lives, the ubiquitous polystyrene drink container – or at least its tightly-fitting lid. You may all have enjoyed slurping a Hot Chocolate or Cappuccino through the spout attached to the lid of one of those

(mostly) heat-proof take-away coffee containers, which have proved to be very handy devices indeed.

The spout was placed atop the lid so that it may be shoved between one’s pouted lips, allowing one to safely quaff a bracing draught of the cup’s delicious contents. It also assured the slurper that none of the contents of the polystyrene container could erupt from its constraints to piddle down the front of one’s shirt, or drip gleefully into one’s cleavage; depending upon the gender of the coffee drinker.

The lid was a very handy, in fact essential, device, for it not only assisted in keeping the contents of the container hot, it also stopped the ingress of bird droppings, dust, small leaves and cigarette ash, any and all of which one might encounter if sipping one’s coffee from a lid-less container al fresco. It also stopped – or at least slowed down – one’s luncheon partner from digitally sampling some of the chocolate-coated froth which sat atop the steaming brew, and which so often made up most of the contents of the little container.

There was another, and possibly unintended, feature of the lid’s functional design, for its application disallowed the casual coffee drinker from ascertaining the depth (amount) of coffee within the container, in direct relation to the amount (height) of the froth located directly above. Perhaps there should be legislation passed regarding the ideal ratio of froth to

coffee, for these have been known to vary enormously between one establishment and another. To date, as far as is known, there isn’t any form of ratio control; one day, hopefully, there might be, for I believe that Archimedes (or was it Pythagoras) once postulated a theory about the ideal ratio of one to the other, and this lost equation may one day be re-discovered, to the benefit of us all.

Be that as it may, the mug’s tightfitting lid once employed a 5mm hole on its upper surface which was cleverly designed to overcome the air lock which would normally occur the instant one would suck on the little spout with some enthusiasm. You see, a small vacuum would be created automatically if that little hole was not present, and this would seriously interfere with the smooth flow of liquid one might usually expect to receive upon employing the technique which we all perfected in babyhood.

Ah, but the position of that 5mm air-bleed hole, brilliant though its concept was, often resulted in a really nasty surprise for many an unaware coffee drinker.

Lips are great for framing rude words to shout at people who incur our displeasure, for whispering sweet nothings into the ears of one’s adored, gently blowing air into the same orifice for some reason, nibbling the delightful creature’s swan-like neck, and other worthwhile pursuits: they are also intended to be a great judge of the

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CLASSIC MORRIS

temperature of hot liquids. They are, however, rendered useless for the latter pursuit when a spout of any description is thrust recklessly between them and a steaming liquid is then sucked through it, thus by-passing the lips’ thermometric function.

In this scenario, if the liquid is too hot for comfort, the first indication of this occurs when the back of the tongue and that odd, dangling little uvula are suddenly scalded. This is usually followed, very shortly thereafter, by the swift removal of the container from the orifice, followed almost immediately by a hoarsely-shouted, one-word description of a fertilizer the Chinese have been using with great enthusiasm for centuries.

The next (logical) reaction is to blow forcefully into the lid’s spout in an attempt to cool the liquid, whereupon that air-bleed hole, which was placed directly opposite the spout, would see the sudden emission of a large quantity of milky froth attended by an unexpected, high-speed jet of hot steam pointing directly between one’s eyebrows, instantaneously stamping a large, and seemingly indelible, red spot at the point of impact. The victim of this fiendish design fault would immediately assume the appearance of a high-caste Hindu, with that large red dot suddenly adorning – in fact dominating - the area between both eyebrows. The victim of this outrage might appear to be a rather pale-skinned Indian on occasion, to be sure, but the likeness of a high-caste Hindu would nonetheless be obvious.

It also hurts like Hell, and usually results in the coffee, along with its container and offending lid, being flung savagely into the nearest rubbish bin.

Fortunately, the message has dawned loud and clear, for the newest generation of the lids of takeaway coffee mugs now employ a tiny air-bleed hole which is all but invisible, and is often placed slightly to one side, instead of being directly across from the little

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spout. There are, in fact, some latter designs which have small slots in the lid where once that offending little spout stood proud, but many of these are less than ideal.

It was way back in the not-soOlden Days, when coffee mug lids still employed the over-large air-bleed hole, while sitting in a local coffee shop digitally dabbing some spit as a soothing lotion upon a Large Red Spot which had suddenly erupted between my eyebrows, that I espied a bright red ST2 Ducati screeching to a halt at the traffic lights just outside the establishment.

The rider, a pale person of very small stature, was unfittingly dressed in nothing but a pair of skimpy shorts, a loosely fitting, black mesh tank-top, long gauntlet gloves, oversize helmet and – to my horror and dismay – bright red thongs! The rider blipped the throttle constantly, the crackling exhaust note at high engine revs rattling the windows while causing large ripples to suddenly appear in the visible contents of many a porcelain coffee cup.

Mercifully, the lights changed to end the machine’s agony (and ours as well), as the bike suddenly shot off to slide sideways into a parking spot just outside the door of the premises. I noted a large red P-Plate dangling from beneath the machine’s rear number plate as the tortured engine was finally silenced and the tiny rider lithely slid off the saddle, propped the bike onto its stand and strolled casually inside, while glancing about and nodding patronizingly at the establishment’s clients as though seeking a welcoming face.

Whether or not mine was a welcoming face I still cannot say but for some obscure reason the rider sauntered over to my table, laid the large gloves upon it and removed a helmet which, because of the pint-sized rider, appeared to be as big as a ten-gallon fuel tank.

When the helmet was finally wrenched

off (without springing the sides out to give the ears an easier time, I might add) a lion’s mane of bright red hair was suddenly released to spring out and frame the tiny, elf-like features as though by a giant, carrot-coloured halo.

The rider, without any pre-amble, demanded, “Look after me lid, will ya, mate?” It was certainly more of an order than a request.

The voice was surprisingly high pitched, as if the shorts were much too tight. Or was the rider, I mused silently, a jockey who had spent much too much time being pounded about on one of those tiny, tablespoon-sized leather devices they refer to as ‘race saddles’.

Perhaps, I cogitated, for there was little evidence to point to the rider’s gender, was this person in fact a pimple-titted female?

The latter, I felt, was probably correct, in view of the chronic shortage of ballroom in the near skin-tight shorts (as a point of interest, there is no ballroom within St Mary’s Cathedral either, for those who may have an interest in the place, but have never viewed its plans).

The rider sauntered over to the counter and returned with a fruit juice and a custard tart – I confess I had hoped it would be a coffee in a container like mine – to flop down and smile at me as though we had been friends for years.

With justifiable pride, the high-pitched one nodded in the direction of the Ducati just outside the window. “Nice bike that” I was robustly informed.

“Goes like a rocket.”

“Yeah, I know,” I informed the little one. “I’ve ridden one. Gave it a squirt at Eastern Creek for a few laps some months ago while the blokes from Two Wheels were there on a photo shoot and I was reporting on a 350cc Aer Macchi/ Harley for the Classic Motorcycle magazine. It goes well; handles even better. Stops pretty hard too. How long have you had it?”

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“Cuppla munce ,” I assume was the reply, as it was incoherently filtered through a mouthful of custard. “Into bikes a bit are ya?” the rider intoned shrilly, brushing some errant crumbs from the black-mesh tank-top with a smooth, sinewy hand. The tank-top still showed no sign of a minor bulge, much less any sign of cleavage, but I remain convinced that my companion was a trim, sylph-like female.

“Ridden a few,” I answered casually, as I slipped with some subtlety into Lecture Mode. “Shouldn’t you have some protective clothing on?” I lectured.

“I’d hate to slip off a motorcycle with that much skin showing.”

“Nah, I don’t fall off motorbikes,” came the answer. “That hasn’t got much going for it.”

“No, it hasn’t,” I replied. “I don’t fall off motorcycles either. At least not on purpose. Neither, I suggest, does anybody else; at least as far as I know.

So tell me where’s your – er – Gold Seal Guarantee?” I asked, a warming to my favourite subject.

“What Gold Seal Guarantee?” the little one asked.

“The Gold Seal Guarantee that you will never fall off a motorcycle. Or accidentally nudge the side of a bus.

Or run into the rear of a Taxi which has suddenly stopped to pick up a fare, or run into the bushes as you come out of a corner which suddenly – and unexpectedly – tightens on the exit. Now, should you possess such a Guarantee, perhaps you should carry it with you at all times!”

“I haven’t got one of them,” my companion squeaked reproachfully.

“No-one’s got one of them. They can’t guarantee that. Look at those blokes in the GP races, mate. Best in the world.

They fall off now and again.”

“Exactly so,” I said triumphantly.

“Best in the world, and even they fall off now and again.”

“Yeah, but look how hard they ride,” came the swift riposte. “Flat out everywhere. That’s why they wear them leathers. They expect to fall off any time.”

“Precisely, and that’s the point,” I lectured on, winking conspiratorially.

“But remember these are expert riders

who know the track they are on. These riders practice for days before an event. They’re all going in the same direction. There are no dogs running onto the roadway. There no half-blind idiots backing out of their driveways.

There are no clowns running red lights, no cars suddenly changing directions without using a warning blinker to signal their intent. There are no pimple-faces youths with no road sense driving sports cars they cannot handle.” I nodded sagely. “It does make a difference, as I’m sure you will agree.”

“Course it does, but you gotta look after yourself out there,” my companion replied, nodding at the road outside.

“Keep outta their way. That way, you’ll be all right, yeah?”

“That’s right,” I was forced to agree.

“Don’t try to share your little bit of road space with anyone else at the same time, and they can’t run into you, or vice versa. But you can slip off a bike for a large number of reasons if you aren’t careful. And if you do, any small – or, in your case, large – area of exposed skin will be ground away on the road surface, you can be well assured of that!”

The little one nodded for a few seconds, almost thoughtfully, at the sage advice. Then, as if on cue, a rasping sound suddenly rent the air.

It came from an Ultratune repair shop across the road.

“Hear that?” I questioned, pointing to the mechanic who was wielding the fiendish device. “That’s an angle grinder.”

“Oh, yeah, an angle grinder.”

“Tell you what,” I said flippantly. “Why don’t you trot over the road and have that guy run the grinder up and down the outside of your right leg from ankle to hip? Then over your ribcage on the other side. Then perhaps from shoulder to elbow on the left side for good measure.”

My companion looked at me goggleeyed, as a small trickle of fruit juice trickled unseen down the front of the tank top. “What the Hell would I want to do that for,” the rider squealed incredulously. “What do ya think I am?”

The person shuddered at the thought, and at the sight of a shower of sparks

which sprang noisily from the car the man opposite was busily assaulting.

“I thought you might like to know what it feels like to slide down the road at speed dressed as you are,” I said in the tone of a Pompous Ass. “The quickest way to find out (and the safest) would be to back up to that angle grinder and find out for yourself.”

“Bet that would bloody hurt, wouldn’t it?” asked my companion as we both winced at the sights and sounds of the shower of sparks which sprang from the tortured metal opposite.

“Yeah, it sure would,” I replied, shifting smoothly from Lecture Mode through Pompous Ass to Old Fart. “I know, because I’ve done it. Not often, mind you, and many years ago at that.

And I’m never going to do it again!”

The young rider opposite (whom I still can’t call ‘he’ or ‘she’, despite my suspicions, because I still don’t quite know the rider’s gender) nodded a few times as though digesting the sermon, and then emptied the juice bottle to a gulp.

“Well, gotta go. I’m goin’ home to get into me jeans and jacket. See ya around. And thanks for the advice.”

“Hey, I didn’t want to tell you what to do,” I offered sympathetically. “No one ever offered me any advice when I started to ride motorcycles all those many years ago. Other than my dad, of course, and as you know their opinion doesn’t always count for much.”

“I dunno,” replied my tiny friend. “But I tell ya what, you learn more listening to a Third Party than you do at home.’

The Ducati rider smiled at my frankly surprised face and strolled to the bike, pulling on helmet and gloves in a couple of swift movements. The air was again rent with noise and the windows rattled in reply to only one blip of the throttle as the rider took off much more soberly.

But my bubble was swiftly burst a second or so later with a 20-meter, lowaltitude wheelie as they shot off and left us all gasping.

Just minutes later the rider came back again and rode past at a much more fitting pace to hold a thumb on high in silent greeting.

For some unaccountable - if gratifying - reason I felt good about that. 

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WHAT SAY YOU?

W

E LOVE TO HEAR FROM YOU, the letters are among the most keenly read parts of the magazine. Please try and keep letters down to no more than 300 words. Then you can read many, not just a couple. We do reserve the right to cut them and, unless you identify yourself and at least your town or suburb and state, we will print your email address instead. Please address letters to thebear@ausmotorcyclist.com.au or Australian Motorcyclist Magazine, PO Box 2066, Boronia Park NSW 2111. All opinions published here are those of the writers and we do not vouch for their accuracy or even their sanity!

a few precautions by fitting hand and radiator guards, crash bars and stronger bash plate just in case.

So I reckon your advice is spot on.

The roadie works brilliantly for me; I have a bike that’s like a magic carpet ride on the tar, but will take my off-tar excursions in its stride. Nevertheless, it’d be great if you could share your advice in AMM on handling a roadoriented bike on dirt/gravel roads.

Thanks again for a great article in a great mag! Keep up the good work.

Cheers Tim

NOT OF-TEN OFF-TAR? G’day Stuart, In your review of the [Triumph Tiger] XRx, you made the statement that ‘It is the bike 85% of “adventure” riders should be buying’. I couldn’t agree more. In 2012 I had made the ‘d’ to buy a Tiger 800. I had visions of a

hard-bitten, steely eyed, nomad rider in the wild. At the same time, my legs were pleading with me not to go too ‘tall’ in the saddle. I was going for that Tiger 800XC come hell or high water.

Then sanity set in. I tried the XC on for size. Damn it - still on tip toes with the seat on low setting. Not good.

Also, what the hell do I know about off road riding? Can I justify banging up this $20K bike while I’m learning? And really, am I thinking about off-road, or off-tar? There’s a huge difference between the two. The places I want to see do have a fair bit of off-tar, but I have to travel on a lot of tar to get to that dirt road I want!

So I bought the Tiger 800 roadie and haven’t looked back. My lack of offroad skill I have compensated for by sticking to off-tar, and taking it easy as my confidence continues to grow and I get tips and tricks from my off-road riding, rock chewing mates. I did take

BATWING WORRIES Dear Bear, Can you clear up a bit of confusion for me, please? In Motorcyclist 29, on page 35, you say about batwing fairings that on a bike as big as the Victory Magnum ‘they have little if any effect’. What did you mean by that?

I am not thinking of buying a Magnum, but I am saving for an Indian and the bike I am looking at is the Chieftain. It has a batwing fairing too. Should I look at a Vintage instead, or will the higher screen of the Chieftain make more of a difference than the low one on the Magnum?

By the way, I enjoy both your and Stuart’s road tests. It is good to see different approaches.

Weekend Warrior, Vaucluse NSW

AND THIS MONTH’S BAGPERSON IS…

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PERFECTLY POSITIONED IN SUPREME RIDING COUNTRY

I’ve asked Stu to look at that story, Tim, and when he’s not away on fabulously well-catered motorcycle launches he will try to put something together. I could do it too, but most of it would consist of advice like, “try not to hold the handgrips so hard that the handlebar tube deforms…”- The Bear

Okay, apologies first. That comment should have read that batwing fairings

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“have little if any negative effect”. In fact, the fairing on the Magnum works well, even with its small screen. You will find that the higher screen on the Chieftain works even better. No need to switch to a Vintage if a Chieftain is what rings your bell. – The Bear CAN YOU BE A “HERO”…

Hi, The word has been bandied around so much by our ‘Talking Heads’ about our ‘Celebrity Sporting Stars’ that I am guessing that you fell into the trap of thinking that a person that does something for self gratification is worthy of the title. True that they have courage and their achievements are noteworthy, but I fail see the Nobility.

However, everybody is entitled to an opinion, and as editor, you decide on the content, but as a customer, I decide if I approve of what you publish, and this time I don’t.

Cancel the subscription please.

Funnily enough, I resigned from the Ducati club for Ducati’s use of the term for a guy that rode a long way. Still looking for a buyer for the bike.

Regards, Dean Hi Dean, thank you for your email. I don’t know where you get, “Celebrity Sporting Stars” from, in Motorcyclist?

As for the word “hero”, you might be interested to know the definition of the word is – “a person, typically a man, who is admired for their courage, outstanding achievements, or noble qualities.” Note the word “or”, it does not mean they have to meet all of the qualities. However, we do feel that anyone tackling the IomTT races meets all three of these qualities.

They are courageous; it is an outstanding achievement just to be able to make the start grid for the IomTT and yes, they are noble for their bravery. If you doubt that, I suggest you do not understand the TT races one bit.

Self-gratification? Hmm? Aren’t all sports people doing it for their own good? I haven’t seen any sports people forced to do their chosen sport before?

Good luck with the sale of your bike and the purchase of a new one. Cheers, Stuart JEFF GETS IT Bear, I really enjoyed Boris’ ‘I’m Not Getting It’ in AMM 29, however he is preaching to the converted. If only this article could be published in motoring magazines and newspapers a few numb-brained motorists might be tempted to come out of the dark and swell the ranks of the enlightened.

Just as long as not too many join us or we could end up with Asian-style traffic jams of bikes and scooters.

Jeff Cole Alice Springs I know, Jeff. But it’s not the kind of thing that newspapers run. We have to hope that our readers (that means you, too) spread the word by recommending the story to drivers… - The Bear DIVINATION Fellas, it’s spelt “divine”, not “devine” (page 4, issue #28). Divine magazine, by the way.

Corinne MacRoberts Wagga Wagga NSW We knew that. We, err, were just testing – The Bear

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BIG UPS FOR BACKPACKS Hey Stuart and Peter, It’s taken me a while to write, but thought it worth it. When you guys were at the Melbourne bike show late last year I had quite a chat to Stu about his reviews of the FZ6 and it was this that swayed me to buy one and it’s still going great guns.

We also had quite a chat about the Bolt and sidecar and its true folks, the paint is truly magnificent in the “flesh”. But it was a review of Kriega gear when you were with the other bike mag that made me look into them and now gives me cause to put pen to paper to talk about the way they conduct business.

I have one of their r25 litre back packs and it is the most comfortable back pack I have ever used on a bike due to the Quadlock system and weight distribution.

I have had my pack for about 2 and half years. Late in 2013, I broke a clip, rang them, they put one in the post, sadly the envelope got damaged in transit and arrived empty. I rang again and left a message on the Friday night just before the 2013 MRA Toy Run to let ‘em know. On the Sunday they had a stand at Calder Park so I swung by and told them who I was. The guy on the stand knew about the lost clip, found one in his kit and just gave it to me, no questions, no drama and a stubby holder as well - BONUS. Now the really good part of this story.

Mid-June 2015 I sent a message asking if they did repairs, as the internal pocket was showing signs of wear and tear. They asked for a few

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WHAT SAY YOU?

photos. I sent them through and the message they sent back was, send the pack back with a note and they would deal with it under warranty.

All of this SMS dialogue was over a weekend too.

Well, yesterday a brand new Kriega 25 litre pack arrived by mail.

This company is selling a great product and backing it up with after sales service. Good service still exists, and I can’t recommend them enough for it!

Adrian Flint Coburg North, Victoria Stuart uses a Kriega backpack too, Adrian, and he backs your comments 100 per cent – The Bear A CHANGE IS AS GOOD AS… Hi team We have been using your excellent maps to explore stuff and want to make you aware of a change of management some 6 weeks earlier at the above hotel. We were going to avoid it based on your critique of the staff, but a lucky chat in St George advised us that the place had changed hands and the new people were getting good reports.

We called ahead and were made very welcome. Great place. Friendly, good value and we would highly recommend a stop over there anytime. The whole town is friendly and lots to see and do.

Cheerio Peter Gawith Peachester Qld What a pleasant bit of news! Thank you, Peter – The Bear

PAYING ATTENTION PAYS OFF Dear Bear and Stuart Very belated I know but I wanted give you and your readers some feedback on the Paradise Motorcycle Tour of the South Island of New Zealand that we went on in conjunction with your Magazine last February.

The only downside was that Air New Zealand lost my luggage and did not get it to me until 6 days into the ride.

I had however taken advice from the pages of your magazine and wore my riding gear onto the plane and carried on my helmet, all the magazines that I have purchased paid off right there. Having my riding gear meant that I could ride, having no luggage?

Couldn’t really care less. I have never used a hair drier before especially now that I have very little hair but they are great for drying out jocks after a quick wash in the sink.

Transport from Christchurch Airport to the hotel was well organised and I had a cold beer in my hand in no time. Trevor from Paradise came to see us upon our arrival as he heard that my luggage had been lost. From then on Paradise took on the responsibility for tracking down my luggage while Diane and I could go on and enjoy the ride, and enjoy the ride we did.

The roads were absolutely amazing and the scenery just seemed to get more and more stunning by the minute, azure blue glacial lakes, twisting roads and snow-capped mountains at every turn. Even riding down around Invercargill in the horizontal rain while dampening certain parts of the anatomy did nothing to dampen our spirits. I will never forget the ride through the

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snow at Homer Tunnel, what a wonderful experience. At the end of each day there was a wellappointed warm room and great food, some of the rooms were well above our expectations.

The other bonus about this ride was the amazing people that we were lucky enough to meet from different parts of the globe. While most people on the ride were from very different backgrounds there was a very good vibe within the group and close camaraderie. I will never forget Fiona singing an operatic song for us at the tavern, the hair on my neck still stands on end when I think of that.

The riders had varied levels of riding skill but Trevor and Andrea were great guides who were happy to share their motorcycling knowledge in an informative and positive way, they also showed a lot of care and compassion to all of the riders. I was lucky enough for Stuart to give me some scooter riding lessons in a pub car park (how was I meant to know that the bloody things don’t have a clutch), Stuart was hard to keep up with both on the road and in the pub.

I have ridden on many organised rides and covered a lot of miles on my own and have always had doubts about going on a guided tour. After riding with Paradise Motorcycle Tours I will not only go again I recommend other riders to have a ride with these blokes.

Thanks for a great magazine and keep up the good work, we might see you on the road again some day.

Kind Regards Peter and Diane Simmonds.

Margaret River WA 

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NEW BIKE PRICES

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CAN-AM (BRP) www.brp.com

*All prices are ride away ROAD Spyder RS SM5 Spyder RS S Red SE5 Spyder RS S Wht SE5 Spyder ST S SE5 Spyder ST Ltd SE5 Spyder RT SM6 Spyder RT S SE6 Spyder RT Ltd SE6

$19,990 $23,990 $23,990 $25,490 $28,990 $31,490 $39,990 $41,990

CF MOTO

www.cf-moto.com.au ROAD V-Night 150 Leader 650NK 650TK CRUISER V5 SCOOTER Jetmax 250

$2690 $2190 $5990 $7990 $3990 $4190

CONFEDERATE MOTORCYCLES

www.confederate.com.au $37,990 $37,290 $44,990 $46,990 $55,990 $56,990 $72,888 $84,990

BMW

www.bmwmotorrad.com.au ROAD F 800 R F 800 GT S 1000 R S 1000 RR R Nine T R 1200 R R 1200 R Sport R 1200 R Exclusive R 1200 RS R 1200 RS Exclusive R 1200 RT K 1300 R K 1300 S K 1300 S Motorsport K 1600 GT K 1600 GT Sport K 1600 GTL K 1600 GTL Exclusive ADV SPORT S 1000 XR ADV TOURING G 650 GS G 650 GS Sertao F 700 GS F 700 GS Low Susp

all prices (unless indicated) exclude dealer and on road costs and some prices may have changed at the last minute as we went to the printer.

from all the manufacturers currently in the country.

Things like special deals, cashbacks, factory discounts and bonuses are what you’ll find. Bear in mind

$13,100 $16,300 $19,290 $22,990 $21,250 $21,950 $22,350 $22,350 $22,950 $23,250 $30,790 $21,990 $23,990 $28,990 $35,990 $36,490 $37,590 $42,500 $22,190 $9990 $10,990 $12,890 $13,140

ROAD X132 Hellcat X132 Hellcat Combat X132 Hellcat Speedster R131 Fighter R135 Wraith Combat

$79,990 $94,990 $POA $POA $POA

DAELIM

www.daelim.com.au ROAD VJF250 SCOOTER Bbone Besbi S1

$4490 $3490 $2190 $3290

www.derbinoz.com.au $6299

DUCATI

www.ducati.com.au ROAD Monster 659 ABS Scrambler Icon (Red) Scrambler Icon (Yellow) Scrambler Classic Scrambler Urban Enduro Scrambler Full Throttle Hypermotard Red Hypermotard Black Hyperstrada Monster 821 Dark Monster 821 Red Monster 821 White

$17,990 $17,490 $19,990 $20,490 $21,490 $19,990 $24,290 $24,490 $25,490 $24,490 $24,990 $30,290 $30,290 $39,990 $27,990 $34,990 $45,990 $23,990 $27,990 $28,490

ERIK BUELL RACING www.erikbuellracing.com.au ROAD 1190RX 1190SX 1190RS Carbon

$26,490 $23,490 $56,990

HARLEY-DAVIDSON www.harley-davidson.com

* All Harley-Davidson prices are ride away CRUISER Street 500 $9995 XL883L SuperLow $14,750 XL883N Iron 883 $14,995 XL1200C Custom $18,750 XL1200V Seventy-Two $18,495 XL1200X Forty-Eight $18,995 XL1200T SuperLow $19,250 FXDB Street Bob $22,495 FXDB Street Bob Special $23,995 FXDL Low Rider $23,495 FXDWG Wide Glide $24,995 FXDF Fat Bob $25,495 FLD Switchback $26,250 FLS Softail Slim $26,250 FXST Softail Standard $27,250 FXSB Softail Breakout $29,495 FLSTF Fat Boy $28,995 FLSTFB Fat Boy Lo $28,750 FLSTN Softail Deluxe $28,995 FLSTC Heritage Softail Classic $29,995 FLHRC Road King Classic $32,495 FLHXS Street Glide Special $34,995 FLTRXS Road Glide Special $34,495 FLHTK Ultra Limited $37,995 VRSC Night Rod Special $27,250 VRSC Muscle $26,995 CVO Softail Deluxe $44,995 Street Glide $46,995 Road Glide Ultra $48,995 Ultra Limited $50,995

HONDA

http://motorcycles.honda.com.au

DERBI

SCOOTER GP1 250

Monster 821 Stripes Streetfighter 848 Panigale 899 Red Panigale 899 White Hypermotard SP Monster 1200 Monster 1200 S Red Monster 1200 S White Monster 1200 Stripes Diavel Diavel Red Diavel Carbon Red Diavel Carbon White Diavel Titanium Panigale 1299 Panigale 1299 S Panigale R ADV TOURING Multistrada 1200 DVT Multistrada 1200 S DVT R Multistrada 1200 S DVT W

$12,990 $12,990 $13,140 $14,990 $14,990 $14,990 $16,990 $17,290 $17,990 $16,290 $16,790 $16,990

ROAD CB125E CB300F CBR300R CBR300R ABS CBR300R SE CBR300R ABS SE CB400 CB400A ABS CB500F CBR500R CBR500R ABS CBR600RR CB650F ABS CBR650F ABS NC700SA ABS CTX700A ABS CTX700D ABS DCT NC750SA ABS VFR800F

$2099 $5699 $5699 $5999 $5799 $6099 $10,099 $11,199 $7499 $7499 $7799 $14,390 $9999 $10,599 $8550 $7399 $10,899 $8799 $14,599

PHONE: 0064 3312 0066 www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au

AMM_September_layout.indd 109

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GSR750 GSX-R750 GSX-S1000 GSX-S1000F GSX-R1000 GSF1250S Bandit ABS GSX1250FA GSX1300R Hayabusa CRUISER VL250 Intruder VL650 S40 VL800 C50T VZ800 M50 VZ1500 C90T VLR1800T C109RT VZR1800 M109R VZR1800 M109R Blk VZR1800Z M109R SE ADV TOURING DR200S DR650SE DL650 V-Strom DL650 V-Strom LAMS DL650 V-Strom XT DL1000 V-Strom SCOOTER AN200A Burgman ABS AN650A Burgman ABS

$12,490 $15,990 $14,990 $TBA $18,490 $12,990 $14,990 $19,290 $6690 $7990 $12,990 $10,990 $17,490 $18,990 $18,990 $19,490 $19,490 $4990 $8090 $10,290 $11,290 $11,490 $15,490 $5490 $13,590

SYM

www.scoota.com.au SCOOTER Orbit 125 Classic 125 VS 150 Symphony 150 HD Evo 200 CityCom 300i Firenze 300

$2499 $2499 $2999 $2999 $4699 $5999 $6299

TGB

SCOOTER X-Race 150 Bullet 150 BellaVita 300i Xmotion 250

$3690 $3990 $6390 $6390

TORINO

www.torinomotorcycles.com.au $4695 $6995 $2590 $2990 $2695 $3995

TRIUMPH

www.triumphmotorcycles.com.au *Some Triumph prices are ride away ROAD Street Triple 660 Street Triple Street Triple R Street Triple RX Daytona 675 Daytona 675 ABS Daytona 675R Bonneville Std Bonneville Std TT Bonneville T100 Bonneville T100 SE

$12,490 $13,990 $14,490 $12,990 $14,390 $14,990 $14,390 $14,990 $15,990 $15,990 $15,990 $16,990 $19,990 $17,490 $20,490 $20,490 $27,490 $13,090 $13,090 $18,490 $18,490 $20,990 $21,990 $22,990 $21,490 $21,990 $23,490 $23,990 $22,490 $23,490 $23,990 $15,090 $16,590 $17,890 $16,590 $17,690 $19,390 $20,490 $20,990

URAL

www.tgbscooters.com.au

CRUISER Veloce 250 Titan 250 SCOOTER Famosa 125 Famosa 150 Galetta Retro Messina Classic

Bonneville T100 Black Bonneville T100 Spirit Bonneville T214 Land Spd Bonneville Newchurch Scrambler Scrambler TT Thruxton Thruxton Ace Sprint GT SE Tiger Sport ABS Speed Triple Speed Triple ABS Speed Triple R ABS Speed 94 Speed 94 R Trophy Std Trophy SE CRUISER America Speedmaster Thunderbird ABS Thunderbird ABS TT Thunderbird Storm ABS Thunderbird Storm Haze Thunderbird Nightstorm Thunderbird Commander Thunderbird Comm TT Thunderbird Comm LT Thunderbird Comm LT TT Rocket III Roadster ABS Rocket III X Rocket III Touring ABS ADV TOURING Tiger 800 XR Tiger 800 XRx Tiger 800 XRt Tiger 800XC Tiger 800XCx Tiger 800 XCa Explorer 1200 ABS Explorer 1200 Wire Wheel

$12,490 $12,990 $13,990 $14,990 $13,390 $14,990 $16,990 $12,490 $12,990 $14,250 $13,990

www.imz-ural.com.au ROAD T cT ADV TOURING Tourist Ranger Retro

$20,340 $20,340 $22,250 $23,420 $23,410

VESPA

www.vespa.com.au SCOOTER LX125ie S 150ie LX150ie PX150 946 GTS250ie GTS300 Super GTS300 Super Sport GTV300

$5290 $5990 $5990 $5990 $11,990 $6990 $7990 $8290 $9490

VICTORY

www.victorymotorcycles.com.au *All Victory prices are ride away CRUISER Vegas 8 Ball Gunner Highball Highball Flame Judge Hammer 8 Ball Boardwalk

$19,995 $19,995 $19,495 $20,495 $20,995 $20,995 $22,495

Boardwalk Red Hammer S Hammer S LE Jackpot Red Jackpot Orange Cross Roads Classic Cross Country Cross Country Ness Cross Country Tour Cross Country Tour 2-Tone Magnum Vision Tour

$22,995 $22,995 $23,495 $23,995 $24,995 $24,995 $26,495 $29,995 $28,495 $28,995 $29.995 $30,495

VIPER MOTORCYCLES www.vipermotors.com.au ROAD Black Diamond Diamond Back

$54,990 $54,990

YAMAHA

www.yamaha-motor.com.au ROAD YZF-R15 R3 SR400 XJ6NL XJ6NL SE FZ6R FZ6R SE YZF-R6 MT-03 MT-07 LA MT-07 HO FZ8N FZ8S MT-09 MT-09 ABS MT-09 Sport Tracker MT-09 Tracer TDM900 FZ1N FZ1S YZF-R1 YZF-R1M FJR1300AT FJR1300A FJR1300AE VMAX CRUISER XV250 Virago XVS650 Custom XVS650A Classic Bolt Bolt R-Spec Bolt C-Spec XVS950A XVS1300 Stryker – Black XVS1300 Stryker - Grey XVS1300A XVS1300AT Tourer XV1900A Roadliner XV1900AT Star Tourer ADV TOURING XT660R XT660Z Tenere XT1200Z Super Tenere

$4299 $6099 $8999 $9799 $9999 $9999 $10,499 $15,999 $9999 $9599 $9999 $12,990 $13,990 $11,290 $11,799 $TBA $14,999 $13,599 $15,699 $16,499 $23,499 $29,990 $23,999 $24,999 $26,999 $31,299 $6499 $10,499 $10,990 $11,999 $12,499 $12,699 $13,999 $14,999 $15,299 $15,999 $18,299 $21,499 $24,099 $11,499 $13,999 $19,990

ZERO

www.zeromotorcycles.com.au ROAD * All Zero prices are ride away SR S 8.5 S 11.4 DS 11.4 FX 5.7

$24,990 $20,490 $23,490 $23,490 $19,490

DISCOVER AMERICA’S

WILD WEST

Enjoy First-class Rental Service at Dubbelju

www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au

AMM_September_layout.indd 111

111 6/08/2015 2:21 pm

FROM THE CAVE

BEAR FACED CULLEN BULLEN ON THREE

C

an’t be sure about this – a lot of alcohol has swished around the old axons since then – but I think I had just been appointed editor of Two Wheels magazine when this happened. Either that or I was still Associate Editor – a wise man had once told me never to be an “assistant” anything – and about to be elevated. Not that it mattered, I was doing all the work anyway. But at this particular time I had managed to get away for a few days, and was on my way to visit friends in Cobar.

The bike I was riding was a brand new Yamaha XS850, the considerably more porky replacement for the slim and somewhat unreliable XS750 triple. Whatever the problem was, it had not transferred to the 850 – which appeared to be more or less an XS1100 with one pot lopped off but was in fact the 750 engine with bigger barrels and pistons, a beefier crankshaft, a wider primary chain and better oil ways. I was expecting a smooth run.

It was getting dark as I passed Lithgow, and I remember singing the Ballad of Sammy Hall as I crested the Continental Divide on my way to Rylstone, where a friend had a pub and I intended to spend the night.

“Oh me name is Sammy Hall, And I hate yers one and all, Damn yer eyes and blast yer souls…”

No, I do not know why I was singing that at the top of my voice inside my helmet, but it seems to have put off at least one kangaroo which sped out in front of me and then threw a hook turn and disappeared in the bush again.

“Damn yer eyes and blast yer soul!” I

warbled after the confused marsupial.

I was beginning to feel quite cheery for some reason, and when the lights of the Cullen Bullen pub hove into view I decided I’d stop to lubricate my throat. Who knew – perhaps my singing would improve. It could definitely not get worse.

I knew the pub fairly well; back in the day (and no, I don’t know when this was) I had attended a Back To Cullen Bullen weekend which had been so much fun that nobody remembered any of it afterwards.

My friends and I had been invited because we were sort-of regulars at the pub. Some of us used to go up there for what was euphemistically called “weekends off”.

One time they had arranged for the publican to get some champagne in for a champagne breakfast. When they came downstairs, the cook looked them over with a jaundiced eye. “Do yers want yer champagne with yer cornflakes or on yer cornflakes?” she asked.

The pub also had a neat response to 10 o’clock closing. The publican had some Masonite sheets cut to match the inside of the windows, and come 10 he slipped them into place and locked the front door. The pub was “shut”; if you (like the local policeman) wanted a drink, you had to come in the kitchen door at the back.

By the time this story takes place, Cullen Bullen had to all appearances become a law-abiding pub, and I had just the one before carrying on to Rylstone.

The rest of the ride west was uneventful. I had a good time in Cobar, where

I discovered why the kitchen at the golf club was renowned for its seafood. It seems that the chef would call a mate at the Sydney Fish Markets, some 700km away, to find out what was good and to place an order. The mate would then bung the fish or prawns or whatever into an esky and take that down to the driver of the Adelaide long-distance bus.

Eight or nine hours later, the esky was in Cobar and the lucky locals were eating fresh seafood that night – a damn sight fresher than the stuff that was served up in many Sydney restaurants.

On the way back, I was congratulating myself on once again slipping past the Highway Patrol officer in Hermidale – who had a ferocious reputation – as I rolled through Nyngan. Less than 10km further down the Mitchell Highway, the fuel warning light came on. I thought, ah, it’s 50km to Nevertire – I’ll make it easily. About another 15km further along the bike stopped.

I refused to believe it at first – a 15km reserve! But the tank was empty all right. Seeing that I was almost halfway between Nyngan and Nevertire, and the bike was hardly light, I dismissed the idea of pushing it. I left it in a farm driveway, hoping that the farmer would not consider possession nine points of the law, and hitched on to Nevertire. That way, I reasoned, I’d be able to borrow a fuel container at the servo and return it on my way past. That, at least, worked.

The hassle did slow me down a bit, so by the time I reached Cullen Bullen again the pub was dark. I really wanted a drink, so I took a chance and tapped on the bar doors.

“If yers want a drink,” came the response, “yers’ll have ter come around ter th’ kitchen door…”

Peter “The Bear” Thoeming 

www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au

AMM_September_layout.indd 113

113 30/07/2015 11:57 am

BORIS

RACE RELATIONS Just in case you think Boris restricts his brand of insanity to the road, be disabused. He has been racing – in British, European and American Racing and Supporters Club (BEARS).

We enter the story when he’s just rung Steve Brouggy, who runs Superbike schools, and asked for help.

“W

hat are you racing?”

Steve asked.

“A Yoshimura-kitted GSX in a Harris frame.”

A meaningful silence followed that disclosure. “What are you racing that in?”

“BEARS Formula Three.”

A more meaningful silence followed the second revelation. I broke it. “I’m going to die, aren’t I?” “I hope not,” Steve said. “Look, you need to come down to the school and we’ll see what we can do.”

Boris is given one of the school’s Suzuki GSX-R600s.

“Despite the fact that I had almost three decades of riding behind me, and literally more than two million kilometres of motorcycle

114

experience, I was a nappy-messing newborn when it came to racing and racecraft. Of course, there was no hope of teaching me racecraft in the time allotted – like roadcraft, it can only be learned on the job, so to speak. What Steve and [instructor] Big Al hoped was to teach me enough to avoid death or maiming and to at least finish the two five-lap races I had entered...

While the other students were learning the theoretical basics of corner entry and throttle control, Steve took me aside, told men to put on my helmet and [then] follow him around the track. “I’ll show you the race-line that seems ot work the best around here, then I’ll follow you and see how you go,” he said.

So I jammed the helmet on my head, zipped up my leathers and followed him out of the pit lane, my stomach doing backflips and bouncing off my squealing kidneys. I’d already done lots of laps around the track, both during the superbike school as well as a few track days I’d been to, so it was not unfamiliar to me. But when a former 125GP racer offers to take you by the hand and lead you around the circuit, it is a special and most revelatory experience.

As I did my best to keep Steve in sight, trying to mimic his lines and body, I realised how truly special these fast boys were.

Every movement is smooth and calculated; every corner entry is measured, sure and precise; every exit is hard and true and a set-up for the next corner. They all make it look so damned easy. And maybe

it is, for the very best of them. But I am certainly not one of them and racing is not remotely easy for me.

Pretty much everything on a racetrack takes place at horrifying speeds that challenge the swiftness of human thought – never mind the casual, sauntering rubbish my middle-aged brain is usually occupied with. Just as I was happily congratulating myself for not dying in my own bloody poo after not crashing on Turn Three, I had to deal with not dying at Turn Four, setting up for Turn Five so as not to perish there, and so on, and all the time trying to go faster and faster, so as not to look like a total cockblanket when the race came.

Then, as I started my second lap in Steve’s wake, things started to come together. I stopped trying to think and just started to ride. I tried to remember to breathe. I remember coming out of Turn Twelve and onto the straight about sixty metres behind Steve, tucking in with my head down, my eyes up, and snicking the screaming Suzuki up through the gears as Turn One, coincidentally one of the fastest totally blind lefthand corners in the world, began to loom ahead of me. You actually have to ‘know’ somehow just when to tip into that corner, because it is blind and because it is fast and because it very quickly sorts the stallions from the mares. You can’t look through it, you just have to ‘know’ it. It’s a Jedi mind-trick that happens at more than 200kms per hour, and no matter how many times you do Turn One (and I have now done it hundreds of times) the approach to it still fills my belly with bitter acid and terror.

Mr Mihailovic is unavailable, so we are running this extract from his book, At The Altar of The Road Gods, published

by Hachette Australia, RRP$29.99.

If you want to know how the racing tiurns out, buy the book… 

www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au

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31

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