Contributors Emma Ayres, Elspeth Callender, Robert Crick, Joern Delfs, Phil Duncan, Mike Grant, Jim Green, Tony Hill, Robert Lovas, Phil Gadd, Ryan Lucas, Lester Morris, Brendan Nelson, The Possum, Dimitra Schonekas, Guy Stanford, Stuart Strickland, Michael Walley, Colin Whelan
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FURBALL
…being something the editor-in-chief wanted to bring up
Well, Editor-in-Chief no longer.
We are shuffling the deckchairs, and I am taking a well-earned step back to become Editor Emeritus. It seems that nothing else will change much, according to my “staff” (Stuart) who remains Editor with lots of added responsibilities. In fact, I will get paid less but will be expected to work just as hard and possibly harder. This was not quite what Mrs Bear intended when she suggested the change, but you can’t have everything…
So, meet the new boss – much the same as the old boss!
Peter ‘The Bear’ Thoeming
Asmost of you know, I have been with The Bear since late 2008. He feels my “apprenticeship” has been served and it’s now time to do it all. While it may seem I will have more work to do, not all that much will change. I have been doing most of the mag for a long time now and The Bear and I work well together, bouncing ideas off each other and producing what is most definitely the best motorcycle magazine in the country (in our humble opinions). Some of you know who I am, where I’ve been, but for those who don’t, I started out my working life as a panelbeater and did that for ten years. Now you know why I’m so fussy with paintwork and fit and finish on a motorcycle, and now you can be told that when we had our award winning Yamaha Bolt outfit painted by one of Australia’s leading painters – 2SUS Custom Resprays - Bassar (the owner) was my apprentice when I was tradesman.
From panelbeating I followed in the footsteps of my father, Ian, and become a police officer. It was a very proud moment for both him and me. This is also where I met my lovely wife, Alana, who is still a police officer. We have two lovely kids who think dad is a slow rider! Ha!
I left the police to work for NRMA Motoring & Services as a Motoring Advisor. While working there I started
testing motorcycles for their website and Open Road magazine on top of my regular work. It was on a HarleyDavidson launch in Western Australia that I met The Bear. It was a funny story, we had a few beers and we actually had an argument, or maybe an “in-depth conversation” might be more accurate, over some point of law at dinner. He must have seen something in me at that time as it was not long after that I started doing some tests for him, then went full-time. Not long after that, we started AMM together and here we are today with a fine product.
I was brought up around motorcycling. My father had quite a few bikes, all the way from a Honda CB250 up to a Suzuki Katana which had some go fast bits for fun. Dad and I would always make a point of going to the motorcycle show each year to see the latest and greatest. A fond memory was seeing the Suzuki Nuda concept bike – a bike that would still look futuristic in today’s day and age.
I owned a Yamaha XT250 and despite my mates and me trying to kill it, it wouldn’t die. A reason the XT is still a wanted motorcycle for many. From there I bought a couple of Fireblades, then a CB900 Hornet, which, with a few mods was a deceptively fast motorcycle.
Over the years I’ve raced cars, go-karts (quite well actually) and motorcycles. I got the Post Classic Racing bug through a mate Chris, and I have my Pre Modern F1 CBR900RR. Chris and I are building a Period 6 1989 Yamaha FZR1000, which will be a very fast motorcycle. We also have another very special motorcycle waiting in the wings, which I’ll tell you about at the right time. The aim is to get IoM TT racer, Alex Pickett to race it at the 2016 Classic TT –watch this space.
So, that is me pretty much in a nutshell. Apart from loving everything motorcycling, there is nothing better than touring our great big land on two wheels. Don’t you just love being an Australian Motorcyclist!
Cheers, Stuart
SEEN SOMETHING FUNNY LATELY? SHARE IT!
Rightio! Finally! We’re there! Umm, the only trouble here is knowing… where there is for us to be at, so to speak. This is where it is, but what is it?
An anonymous contributor spotted this sign on a US road trip, somewhere in California. He assures us that all there was in the vicinity was a few more trees and a bit of that star picket fencing. The mystery remains a mystery, unless one of you knows what it is that’s here!
If you have a funny photo, send it in and we’ll consider it for this page. Send to thebear@ausmotorcyclist.com.au or PO Box 2066, Boronia Park NSW 2111. Thank you!
BAZZA AND FREDDIE
2015 Barry Sheene Festival of Speed Come out to Sydney Motorsport Park on the 20, 21 & 22nd of March to the Barry Sheene Festival of Speed and you will not only see some amazing classic race bikes and racing (including Stuart racing his CBR), but you’ll have the chance to see special guests Freddie Spencer and, returning this year, Maria Costello MBE. Not only is there racing, but you can get involved as well, with spectator laps of the circuit. The Show N Shine is always popular and a swap meet will be popular for those after hard to get parts. Check out the club and trade stands for all sorts of goodies. So come out and enjoy one of the best weekends of the year. Stuart will see you there! www.barrysheene.com.au
POLARITY
Polaris buys Brammo
to focus exclusively
integration of electric
leverage Polaris’ leading
Polaris Industries Inc. has bought the electric motorcycle business of Brammo Inc and is acting as a leading investor in a recapitalisation of Brammo that enables the company to focus exclusively on the design, development and integration of electric vehicle powertrains. The two companies will leverage Polaris’ leading position in the global powersports industry to market a variety of electric vehicles utilising Brammo’s award winning lithium-ion electric drivetrain technology, while freeing Brammo to continue developing its innovative electric vehicles. Keep your eye on www.polaris. com and www.brammo.com
US TAKES THE TROPHY
Troy Bayliss Classic
If you got to the Troy Bayliss Classic held at the Old Bar oil track recently, you would have witnessed a jam packed day
of racing with access to many motorcycle racing legends, current and past.
A solid crowd of over 6500 were treated to an action packed event with reigning AMA Pro Grand National Champion Jared Mees winning the 21 lap “Troy Bayliss Classic”, edging out compatriot Henry Miles and Australian dirt-track legend Paul Caslick. Early favourite Troy Herfoss emerged victorious in the elimination style Americana but crashed while battling for the lead in the Troy Bayliss Classic. Make sure you mark down next year’s event and see it for yourself! www. troybaylissevents.com
READY TO FIRE
Matchless Model X Reloaded
Matchless motorcycles are back on the scene, albeit not in Australia (but maybe one day?). Their “Model X Reloaded” model is quite a good take on the original 1937 “Model X”. Let’s hope to see it here one day in the not too distant future.
SMILING FROM EAR TO EAR!
Held Carese II winner
We already announced that Thierry D’Argent had won the amazing Held Carese II jacket, but here he is in all his glory with his Held jacket, ready to ride his nice looking XJR1300. Enjoy the jacket, mate, and seeing as the rest of us aren’t so lucky, check out all of the amazing Held apparel at www.heldaustralia.com.au We use it ourselves!
Stuart is wearing a Shoei NXR helmet, Yamaha MT Techno jacket, Held Backflip gloves, Draggin jeans and Sidi Vertigo boots.
ORGANISED TOURS
Changeable weather high in the Alps (Photo Gretchen Beach)
Who goes where and why use them?
I had an email from my old (and I do mean “old”) mate Bernd Tesch the other day. Bernd, with his website www.berndtesch.de/ keeps track of the around-the-world and otherwise serious motorcycle travellers. Interestingly, he noted that as far as he knows there are only about 300 people alive today who have ridden all the way around the globe in the time covered by his records: from 1912 to the present.
That number seems remarkably low to me, but Bernd is the one with the computer records…
The interesting thing about this is just how low that number is. Consider that most motorcycle tour operators would take at least 300 people on their tours each year – and there are dozens of operators. Of course very few, if any, of the people who travel with an operator actually ride all the way around the world. But the discrepancy is still very, very large.
So does that mean that people are no longer riding the big distances on their own? Of course not. We hear of a few every year.
But it does mean that a lot of riders who want to tackle the more interesting roads and countries have been opting for organised tours.
TOUR OF TUSCANY
ITALY | SAN MARINO
AT A GLANCE
START/FINISH: Donnini
NEAREST AIRPORT: Florence
DURATION: 9 days vacation, 7 riding days
ROUTE: Total distance 730 - 1160 miles (1175 - 1870 km). Daily rides 70 - 200 miles (115 - 320 km). The entire route runs on good asphalt roads, mostly very curvy and narrow.
ACCOMMODATIONS: Comfortable middle-class hotels, some with historical flair.
REST DAYS: Siena, Assisi, San Marino
9 DAYS VACATION
7 DAY RIDING ROUTE
Day 1 Arrival in Florence / Donnini
Day 2 Donnini ¨ Siena
Day 3 Siena
Day 4 Siena ¨ Assisi
Day 5 Assisi
Day 6 Assisi ¨ San Marino
Day 7 San Marino
Day 8 San Marino ¨ Donnini
Day 9 Departure from Florence / Donnini
HIGHLIGHTS
★ Florence
★ Leaning Tower of Pisa
★ Chianti Region
★ San Gimignano
★ Volterra
★ Siena
★ Orvieto
★ Perugia
★ Gubbio
★ Urbino
★ Assisi
★ San Marino
TOUR GRADING
ROUTE: intermediate HOURS: 6 to 8 h
TOUR DATES 2015
May 22 - 30
Sep 17 - 25 Sep 26 - Oct 04
Lake Trasimeno
Lake Bolsena
Tyrrhenian Sea Orvieto
Gubbio
Urbino
San Gimignano Greve in Chianti
Pisa FLORENCE
SAN MARINO
ASSISI
SIENA
Perugia
Pesaro Montepulciano
Strada Panoramica
We certainly don’t blame them; we’ve been doing the same thing. Indeed, we are now running organised tours of our own, for readers.
There are many reasons for the preference for these tours, but the principal one is the brutal reality that few of us have the time we would need to plan, organise and fi nally actually do the rides we dream of. Annual holidays are simply too short. Imagine, for example, trying to put together a bike trip through somewhere like Vietnam. Visa, permits, hotel bookings, bike rental and breakdown recovery, route planning, advice on things to see and do, timing… it’s all a bit daunting. It can be done, but do you want to spend your time doing this – or would you prefer to be riding? If you get a tour operator to do it (at least, if you get a reputable one) most of this is taken off your back. Your holiday will be easier and you will spend more of it actually doing what you want to do –riding – instead of hassling.
There are more reasons, but I’m sure you can imagine those for yourself. Just think, for example: what if I go somewhere and miss the main attraction – because I don’t know it’s there?
By the way, we’ve been on tour with some of the companies listed below; we’ll mention it in the listing if we have.
WHY NOT GO THIS WAY?
None of the above of course means that travelling in a group like this is necessarily better. For one thing, it will cost more than if you just do it yourself. There is no getting around that. After all, you will have more services available – the bike, a guide, help with formalities, often a support van which carries your luggage, breakdown assistance and so on. That all has to be paid for. It all depends on what you want. But to come back to the question of time, above – if you want to make the most of your two or three weeks of annual holidays, it’s good to know that those things are taken care of for you.
Meet Craig Vetter
Here’s something you won’t get on any other bike tour: For those of us lucky enough to be going on The Bear’s Best of the West bike tour of the western USA in August, here’s a bonus: lunch with his friend Craig Vetter, one of the great names in motorcycle design. Craig is credited with creating the ‘cruiser’ motorcycle
Craig Vetter with one of his current projects, a fuel-saving streamliner.
with his 1973 Triumph Hurricane, but he’s done much more than that. You will get a chance to eat with him and hear about his amazing life.
Check Australian MOTORCYCLIST Magazine for more details of the tour, or email skip@gamt.com and thebear@ausmotorcyclist.com.au for bookings.
Your Ride. Your Way.
Guided Tours • The best “no-worr ies” Holiday available!
Small groups, relaxed style and great roads every day Tours include motorcycle hire and fuel, lodging and many meals A support vehicle carries luggage, supplies, complimentary water, soft drinks and snacks You’ll enjoy the personal attention of an experienced guide and support staff, 24/7
Self-Guided Tours
• Your personal adventure, built on our exper ience
We’ve taken some of the Best Rides in North America - you can too! Motorcycle hire, hotels, maps, directions, GPS, suggested activities and dining options are all included Most Guided Tours are available as Self-Guided adventures, on your schedule We'll even create or modify a tour to meet your needs
Road Trip Auto Tours • For non-r iders, Family & Fr iends
Not everyone a Rider? See the best of North America in the hire car of your choice Most guided or self-guided motorcycle tours - including custom - are available as Road Trip Auto Tours Wondering about motorcycles and autos together? Of course you can!
Motor cycle Hir e • Great rates, round tr ip or one-way We’ll give you a complete pr ice with no sur pr ises
2015 Guided Tours
Route 66 5-20 June / Chicago to LA / 15 Nights, 14 Ride Days ALMOST SOLD OUT
Glacier Nat’l Park / Canadian Rockies / Calgary Stampede 24 June - 9 July / Seattle, WA / 15 Nights, 14 Ride Days
Pacific Coast (NORTH) 10-18 July
Seattle, WA to San Francisco, CA / 8 Nights, 7 Ride Days
Pacific Coast (SOUTH) 18-26 July
San Francisco, CA to Los Angeles, CA / 8 Nights, 7 Ride Days
75TH ANNUAL Stur gis Bike Week 30 July-12 August
Las Vegas, NV to Denver, CO / 13 Nights, 12 Ride Days
The BIGGEST Bike Week in history, a once-in-a lifetime experience
And the best part is getting there! SPACE IS LIMITED NEW TOUR - Best of the West
15-30 August / Los Angeles, CA / 15 Nights, 14 Ride Days
Some of our favorite places in a new combination for 2015 - Grand Canyon, Zion, Death Valley, Yosemite, Kings Canyon and Sequoia National Parks, Monument Valley, Las Vegas, Route 66, the Pacific Coast and more Ride at elevations from -86m to +3,050m!
Black Dog Ride Across America - 11 September - 4 October
New York NY to Los Angeles, CA to / 23 Nights, 21 Ride Days
Route 66 Extended 16 October - 3 November / Chicago to LA 18 Nights, 17 Ride Days
Since 2002, personal service has been our foundation Your Holiday is YOURS, and we’ll help you make the most of it.
Whether you choose a Guided or Self-Guided Motorcycle Tour, Auto Tour or Motorcycle Rental, we’ll make sure the adventure is all you expect - plus more - and every component of your journey is up to the highest standards
Enjoy the sights, sounds, and freedom of the ride, with the security of our experience and support Make 2015 the year you take a FANTASTIC holiday with friends, family or solo You’ll have loads of fun on any number of wheels!
Visit our website and contact us soon
“BEST THING ABOUT TOURS HERE [IN SE ASIA] IS THAT YOU DON’T NEED TO WORRY ABOUT LEGAL DIFFICULTIES AND YOU KNOW YOU’LL HAVE SOMEWHERE TO SLEEP AT NIGHT.”
On a guided tour you can’t always stop where and when you want to, and go on when the feeling takes you. That might seem to be a disadvantage, but if you’re on your own, are you sure that you want to trade another day in town X for the opportunity to see waterfall Z the next day? A planned tour will take into consideration all the attractions along the way.
But frankly this is getting a bit boring to write, and I imagine it’s getting just as boring to read. The choice is yours; if you’re planning a bike holiday you will know better than I do what you want. If you want the advantages an organised tour (including a self-guided one) can bring, read the rest of this feature and then choose one (or look further). If you don’t, start thinking about organising your own tour. We’ll have a feature to help you with that shortly, too.
Whatever you want is always all right with us!
WHERE DO YOU WANT TO GO?
Let’s take a bit of a general look at what’s offered by the various destinations that are popular (or not yet popular) with Australian motorcycle travellers.
AUSTRALIA:
If you’re heading bush it makes sense to consider a group tour.
There’s safety in numbers, and getting lost, crashing or breaking down is far less scary if you’re with a group. Operators will generally have satellite phones so the Flying Doctor is only as far away as the nearest fl at bit of ground. If you’re not using your own bike, the one supplied will usually be a medium-sized dual purpose or dirt bike. Most likely you would bring your own gear, such as helmet, boots and gloves.
It can also be fun to go for a ride when you’re away from home for a couple of days, perhaps in another capital city or holiday destination. Bike availability will vary, and a selection of basic gear should be available. Road tours under these circumstances may or may not be self-guided.
NEW ZEALAND:
The scenery is the big attraction, along with the roads. Ship your own bike or rent one to go on an organised tour; that will make sure you take the right roads and see the best sights! You can rent all sorts of bikes –literally; there are bikes on the market in New Zealand which have never made it to Australia. Take your own gear; it’s only a short hop across the Tasman.
SE ASIA:
Best thing about tours here is that you don’t need to worry about legal diffi culties and you know you’ll have somewhere to sleep at night. Mostly
you will be riding a small bike, or even something like a clutchless scooter-bike hybrid, but the traffi c makes it advisable to stay small! That’s different in less congested places like Thailand. Take your own (open face, perhaps) helmet; you can pick up gloves, jackets etc locally and cheaply.
OTHER ASIA:
If it’s India you will almost certainly fi nd yourself on a Royal Enfi eld, which is a good choice for the chaotic traffi c. Some of the other countries will present you with Enfi elds as well. Once again, take your own helmet… and probably your other gear as well. It gets cold up in the mountains!
UNITED STATES:
Harleys are traditionally the bikes here, but Honda GoldWings are almost up there too. Indian is climbing in popularity for rentals, too. Traffi c is not usually much of a problem, but it’s best to choose a bike that will be comfortable for long distances. A lot of rental places will have helmets, and they will probably be of reasonable quality, so perhaps you don’t need to take your own. I would anyway. Other gear I’d buy locally; there is excellent bike gear available in the US at reasonable prices. Chat with the cops, but don’t argue.
LATIN AMERICA :
I would always choose a dual purpose or dirt bike down here; even so-called good roads can deteriorate very quickly, and often connections from one town to another will lead through awful patches of sand or mud. Bring all our gear. There is a good chance you’ll bite the dirt (although usually at low speed) so be ready for it. Get a Yellow Fever shot before you go.
AFRICA:
It’s hard to generalise, because different parts of Africa vary so widely in the quality of their infrastructure, but let’s just say that outside South Africa you’re best off with a dual purpose or dirt bike (I’ve been stuck in the Sahara with a Yamaha XS1100, and it was no fun). Take all your own gear, but make sure none of it looks military.
EUROPE:
Any bike you want, any tour you want… Europe is motorcycle heaven, although you won’t think so in, for example, the Alps on a weekend… Buy motorcycle gear locally, except your helmet – European helmets will not be approved for use back home.
Operator, give me information…
Here are 33 tour operators for you to choose from, the biggest collection ever compiled. We haven’t been on trips with all of them, but we do know them.
ADRIATIC MOTO TOURS
www.adriaticmototours.com
Specialising in the Alps and the spectacular Balkans, Adriatic is based in Ljubljana in Slovenia. The Bear has signed up for their Beautiful Balkans Adventure in early May and we can’t wait to see his photos. Bikes for tours or rental are mainly BMWs, including the S 1000 XR, as well as Yamahas, Triumphs and Suzuki V-Stroms.
ASIAN EXPERIENCE
www.asianexperience.com.au
Whether it’s Everest Base Camp or Tibet, or other Asian destinations like Bhutan, India, Nepal or even Bali, Asian Experience has the experience to take you along. You even get the choice of sealed or unsealed roads.
BEACH’S MOTORCYCLE ADVENTURES
bmca.com
‘Don’t dream. Do!’ is the motto, and Beach’s have been doing it – running bike tours all over Europe – for 43 years. The Bear recently took a tour with them and came back scratched (he crashed twice, his own fault) but seriously impressed. Beach’s are Official Travel Partners of BMW, and The Bear is looking longingly at an F800 GS and Sardinia…
BLUE STRADA TOURS
www.bluestradatours.com
Bill Kniegge’s Blue Strada Tours is based in North Carolina, which puts it within easy reach of wonderful bike roads like the Blue Ridge Parkway, Deal’s Gap and the Diamondback Motorcycle Route. Bill will happily customise trips for you, or supply maps and instructions for a self-guided ride. As a bonus, you get a taste of Blue Grass music and local food specialities. One way rentals can also be organised to Southern California or Denver, Colorado.
BRITTON ADVENTURES
www.adventurerides.co.nz
With motorcycle adventure tours in places as widely spread as Mongolia, Bolivia, South East Asia and New Zealand, Britton grades its rides as one, two or three helmets to indicate the degree of difficulty. Its Yamaha Far North Adventure Ride is New Zealand’s longest-running non-competitive bike event.
CALIFORNIA SUNRIDERS
MOTORCYCLE TOURS & RENTALS
www.california-sunriders.com
Whether it’s a guided tour or just rental, California Sunriders has a huge range of Harley-Davidson models from the Harley-Davidson Authorized Rental Program for you to choose from. The company is dedicated to offering more than just a bike or a ride – it will provide you with an enjoyable and memorable holiday experience you will remember for years.
COMPASS MOTORCYCLE TOURS
www.compassexpeditions.com
If you were looking for a tour operator who could honestly say that they’ve “been everywhere” then you’ve come to the right place. Compass runs both short trips and continent-crossing tours like the 105 day London to Magadan maxi-adventure. The Bear took one of their South American trips and, despite a vile stomach bug, had a wonderful time. They offer bike rental in Australia, too.
DUBBELJU MOTORCYCLE RENTALS
www.dubbelju.com
Dubbelju is in San Francisco, one of The Bear’s favourite cities, and it’s run by a good mate of his, Wolfgang. What more could you ask for? Well, how about a terrific range of bikes and a thorough serving of advice about where to go and what to see in northern California, complete with detailed maps? No guided tours, but it’s almost as good.
EAGLERIDER RENTALS AND TOURS
www.eaglerider.com
They have more than 80 rental locations around the world, and they offer H-D, Indian, Triumph, BMW and Honda bikes – though not all of them at all locations. Complimentary shuttle pickup from hotels or airports, locked storage for your suitcase and many other services are standard. In North America they will even provide a DOT approved helmet. Check their ‘Featured Deals’ on the website for cut prices.
EDELWEISS MOTORCYCLE TOURS
www.edelweissbike.com
With probably the largest selection of tours in the world, Edelweiss really has something for everyone. That includes training courses as well as tours of just about every motorcycle road around! The Bear sampled the Edelweiss Pyrenees tour recently and came back raving about it. Wide range of bikes and starting points.
EXMO TOURS
www.exclusivemotorcycletours.com
Another tour operator with a staggering range of destinations all around the world, EXMO also has a wide range of services. This includes shipping your bike if you want to use it on a tour. They also offer a photo book and a professionally edited FullHD video of your tour.
FERRIS WHEELS MOTORCYCLE SAFARIS
www.ferriswheels.com.au
Either Mike or Denise or both of them lead every single Ferris Wheels tour, and they both ride. Tours were originally based in the Himalayas and conducted on Royal Enfield bikes, but Ferris Wheels has expanded to cover the globe – even Iceland – and different bikes are available for different tours. Ferris Wheels has been an outstanding Australian tour operator for 20 years.
FREE SPIRIT MOTORCYCLE TOURS
www.freespiritadventure.com
Whether it’s guided tours, self-guided tours or full on adventure expeditions, Free Spirit offers it all. Specialising in tours of Tibet, Nepal and Bhutan as well as Rajasthan and southern India, they provide the classic Royal Enfield Bullet bikes.
GET ROUTED
www.getrouted.com.au
While they’re theoretically a bike shipper, not a touring company, Get Routed does run occasional rides from some of its unloading points in Europe and North America which include the UK, Barcelona, Piraeus, the US and Canada. Get Routed’s Dave Milligan will even organise accommodation for you in the Isle of Man for the TT!
GO EXPLORE THE WORLD
goexploreworld.com
This company offers many different tours, not just bike rides. But The Bear reckons their North Vietnam tour, which he did a couple of years ago, is
just as professional as if it was the only thing they do. Bikes vary in size and quality, but the spirit is terrific.
GREAT AMERICAN MOTORCYCLE TOURING
www.gamct.com
This is the operator we’ve entrusted with running The Bear’s Best of the West tour, which will give you some idea of how highly we value them. Sign up now for this top tour in August! Along with guided and self-guided tours to Sturgis and all over the West, as well as across the continent, GAMT offers bike rental; bikes are Harleys, but others may be available at extra cost.
HISPANIA EXCLUSIVE MOTORCYCLE TOURS
www.hispania-tours.com
Spain, Portugal, Morocco and the Alps – it’s hard to think of a better range of riding destinations anywhere, and Hispania covers them all. An Official Partner of BMW Motorrad, Hispania has guided and self-guided tours on a comprehensive range of BMWs, and even offers bike storage in Spain if you want to leave your bike down there for excursions.
IMT BIKE
www.imtbike.com
For the past 17 years, IMT has been the leading motorcycle tour operator in Spain and Portugal. As well as tours of the Iberian peninsula, IMT runs tour of Morocco and the rest of Europe. New, fully equipped BMWs are available for rent in Barcelona, Madrid, Lisbon and Malaga, among others. IMT is an Official Partner of BMW Motorrad and features BMW Academy training.
JUST RIDE MOTORBIKE TOURS AND RENTALS
www.justridemotorbiketours.com
Based in northern Auckland, New Zealand, Just Ride offers Ducati and Triumph motorcycles for guided tours and rental. They specialise in short tours with small groups, and routes are flexible to suit the riders. If they don’t have the bike you want they will try to get it.
www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au
INDIANAPOLIS MOTO GP
BLUE HIGHWAYS
TOURING AMERICA’S BACK ROADS WITH A LIFER
WORDS/PHOTOS NEALE BAYLEY
“On the old highway maps of America, the main routes were red and the back roads blue. Now even the colors are changing. But in those brevities just before dawn and a little after dusktimes neither day nor night - the old roads return to the sky some of its color. Then, in truth, they carry a mysterious cast of blue, and that’s the time when the pull of the blue highway is strongest, when the open road is a beckoning, a strangeness, a place where a man can lose himself.” William Least-Heat Moon
WorkingI-85 north on the anniversary of 9/11, the leaden sky hangs low above us, clouds so swollen with rain they might burst at any moment. Mist fills the air, and on the secondary roads that will take us to Indianapolis, the land we travel through seems as if it’s in mourning. Hand painted signs of commemoration
punctuate the dull, colorless countryside. The ground is saturated to the point of overflow from the last day’s rain. Hunkered down behind the fairing of my V-Strom with tour leader Bill Kniegge up front on point, I can’t shake the sense of melancholy that invades my soul. Small towns seem lost and lonely in the fog, and splashing along the cold, wet road, I couldn’t feel further from Mr. Least-Heat Moon’s magical highways.
As Falston becomes Casar and Golden gives way to Marion the weather starts to clear over these small mountain towns, and the sun starts poking through the gloom. My mood begins to change. With thoughts of the Indianapolis Moto GP burning off the mental fog, and Bill picking up the pace on the rapidly drying roads, the first bursts of sunshine remove the mistshrouded chrysalis that has wrapped
our world for the past few hours. Green fields stretch lazily away to wooden barns on the horizon, farm animals graze, and the ribbon of road dissecting the farmland that will accompany us through Middle America is delightfully smooth. Firing us into a long series of technical bends, before swooping over minor rises and down dips into small valleys, the tour has begun.
Kniegge’s a lifer. The sort of motorcyclist who just can’t quit. From the time he was an eleven year old boy in the ‘50s sitting on his Uncle’s BMW, to leading tours in his home state of North Carolina half a century later, he has been on or around two wheels since before he can remember. With a vision to conduct luxury tours in the beautiful state of North Carolina he has adopted as home, his Indy Moto GP tour is a natural extension of this dream.
READERS’ TRAVELS
A short hop west on Interstate 40 that pulls us up through the Pisgah Forest, over Black Mountain and down into Asheville, leads us to the two-lane that finds us in the mountain town of Marshall for lunch. Here, Bill has an added treat for us as we are joined by ex AMA Superbike Champion Jamie James. Living not far from Marshall, who better to sit and chat with about the upcoming Moto GP as we eat? With the historic town of Marshall enjoying some warm sunshine after our cold, wet start, it also gives us an opportunity to stretch our legs a little after lunch and enjoy this curious town.
Full bellies and mountain charm could have easily sabotaged our afternoon ride if Bill hadn’t saddled us up and led us north into Tennessee and on to Virginia on the most challenging of roads. Following every contour and curve of the landscape, it gives our small team a chance to find a pace we are comfortable with. Riding with father and son team, Mike and Tim Ogles from California, and North Carolina resident Rich Lubbers, our group moves easily together. Passing through small towns, it is evident the economic hardships that are becoming more common these days have hit the country first, with a lot of small businesses closed, working limited hours, or up for sale. The Lonesome Pine Trading Post has fallen victim to the times, and we miss our chance to go Frog Giggin, one of the many activities and curiosities that had once been offered along this route.
By now we are closing in on the Cumberland Gap, and Bill heads us west toward Kentucky. Deep in the Appalachian Mountains, we work our way through Daniel Boone country as we pass Rogersville, Enterprise and Jonesville and finally Cumberland Gap Village that boasts a population of 204. No time to stop as we cross I 75, take a quick, deep breath to celebrate not being stuck with the commuting herds, and dive into the next set of divine bends running through Bald Rock, Dykes and Mount Victory. Finally calling a halt in Somerset with close to 400 miles on the odometer, we easily find the Doolin House, our
accommodation for the night, and head in for a drink. A totally rebuilt Manor House modeled on an 1850s home, it’s owned and operated by professional chefs Charles and Allison Sobrieck. They’re responsible for tightening a few sets of riding pants with their fabulous cuisine, and we enjoy a private dinner on site, with more of the same for breakfast.
Fueled by strong coffee and a sun filled morning’s enthusiasm, we pick up the Daniel Boone Parkway west, before hopping onto some more curvy, lightly trafficked state roads. The sky is growing heavier with clouds as we pass tobacco barns and corn silos before approaching the Ohio River. Taking a quick break before crossing the old metal bridge that takes us to our next state, the countryside has flattened significantly and all signs of blue sky have abandoned us. With the rain holding off, we skirt Elizabethtown and continue into Indiana and the small historic town of Corydon for lunch. Bill has done his homework, and we are soon inhaling the most delicious white bean chili at Magdalena’s as the grand tour continues. Strolling for a while after lunch, the historic town center makes for a perfect break and a chance to meet a few of the locals, who seem very interested in the small group of motorcycle travelers passing through.
Working north, it’s all corn and tobacco for as far as the eye can see. The road runs straight through the middle of farmland for the next few hours as we detour around Palmyra, before passing Beck’s Mill and Salem. After pausing for a time at the longest covered bridge in America at Medora, it’s time to pick up the pace some as we ride into the great Indiana Hill country of Brown County. It throws long series of challenging curves at us, and we positively fly by the cornfields enjoying the chance to put the V Stroms through their paces for a while. Tight, nimble machines, their upright riding position has comfortably carried us to here. The wide bars provide outstanding maneuverability as we perform our
Himalayan Heights
Turkish Treasures
Shining Shangri-La
Awesome Andes
Moroccan Magic
Dalmatian Delights
Inspiring Iceland
own Indy GP for a time. Pausing to make a turn in the one horse town of Story, a chance look left from Bill spots the Story Inn, and the spirit of curiosity leads us to an unscheduled stop.
Finding the rusted building packed to the gunwales with memorabilia, and a staff willing to tell us the building’s and town’s fascinating history, we have a cold drink while we listen. This prompts Bill to do some investigating: he is going to add in a night here on his trip this year as it is just too interesting a place to ride by. It’s not on our agenda though, so we saddle up and make our last miles to the Mecca of Motorsports through Stonehead, Gnawbone and more as Indy calls. Thankfully, the rain holds off as the first part of our pilgrimage ends at the beautifully restored Hampton Inn and base camp for our Moto GP weekend operations.
Always moving at a relaxed pace, we meet Mr. Kniegge and his lovely wife Debbie in the lobby for transport to Dunaway’s Palazzo. This fantastic five star restaurant in the restored Indiana Oxygen building is an old haunt of Bill’s, and we do a little celebrity spotting over our fabulous cuisine. It’s owned and operated by well-known Chef Jeff Dunaway, and we re-ride our route over dinner as the excitements builds for the spectacle awaiting us at the racetrack.
Awakening to find the streets packed with motorcycles, we find the mood is friendly and there are no riders out saving lives with their exhaust pipes as we board the Red Bull charter bus to the Speedway. Credentials in hand, there are no lines for us as we are whisked through town to the track and a full day of activities. A private tour of the track museum is followed by lunch at the Red Bull energy station, just fifty feet from the practicing Moto GP bikes in turn 10. Feeling as if we could reach out and offer our racing heroes a sandwich, there’s nothing like the smell of race fuel and a cold Red Bull in hand for raising the adrenaline levels to new highs.
Under kindly skies, we watch the American boys show the world a thing or two, and marvel at the insane speeds
READERS’ TRAVELS
of the 250cc bikes in the turns. There is nothing like listening to the big four strokes coming off the throttle, though, before lighting the rear tires up as the gas comes back on.
Finding ourselves at the lively Claddagh Irish Pub for an early dinner as night approaches, it’s time to catch our breath. Quickly re-energized we follow Bill out to the Fairgrounds for dirt track racing at the world famous Indy Mile. We have prime seating on the inside of turn one, and enjoy the battle up close and personal as the gladiators roar sideways at seemingly insane speeds, inches from the metal barrier, and inches from each other.
The unmuffled V-twins roar late into the night as the energetic crowd cheers them on and we are hoarse shouting at each other in excitement.
No coffee is needed to get us moving onto the Red Bull bus the morning of the race. The weathermen are predicting gloom and doom, but living in the bliss of race day denial we enjoy a lightning ride through the crowds with our police escort. Back at the energy station, it’s game
on before we know it and under the most threatening of skies the battle commences. Somehow racing through the spray, the battle wages right in front of our eyes. Nicky Hayden keeps the dream alive lap after lap before we see the God of motorcycle racing himself, Vale, make the pass that puts him in the history book as winner of the Inaugural Indy Moto GP. With the race ending shortly after as the wind and rain came down in howling torrents, we make our way back to the bus. A quiet evening at PF Changs’ means rubbing shoulders with the race teams, and an opportunity to relive a day that will burn in our motorcycle souls forever.
Home is calling as we saddle up into a clear but cool morning. There is the constant threat of rain as we drop south of the Ohio River and everywhere the damage from yesterday’s storm tells us we are lucky to be traveling today. Oldenburg becomes Peppertown before Batesville and Hubble’s Corner disappear in our mirrors. A belly full of authentic Mexican cuisine carries us south for the afternoon as the ride
takes us to the Cumberland Gap Village. As we hit US 421, the sun is hanging low over the surrounding mountains painting the hillsides and farm buildings with rich golden color. It will be a while before the light on the highway fades to blue, and by then we will be settled in at the fabulous, historic Old Mill Inn. In the saddle of the V Strom, swinging through the bends with my newfound friends for company, I know that Bill Kniegge has breathed new life into Mr. Least Heat Moon’s words with his fabulous tour through the heart of America to the Indianapolis Moto GP.
CLUTCH D-DRY® GLOVE
SCOUT EVO GORE-TEX® GLO VE
$239.95 RRP INC GST
Scout Evo Gore-Tex® gloves are ideal for touring in all weather conditions, even when the temperature drops drastically. The exceptional Gore-Tex® membrane along with Primaloft® cosy thermal linings make Scout Evo Gore-Tex® gloves waterproof, breathable and warm. Techno inserts on the knuckles and nger joints ensure protection as do the leather reinforced palms, the anti-take o wrist band and additional soft inserts in speci c key locations. The combined e ect of all these protections in no way compromises either hand movements or comfort thanks to numerous patches of elasticised material and to the pre-curved ngers.
$109.95 RRP INC GST
Aggression and power are also parts of the motorcycle’s attraction and are transmitted by its design and technical content. Whether we’re talking about competitive or drag bikes, the one thing that counts is character. The Clutch glove is o ered to the most technical users in search of a short waterproof glove with decisive style and a simply great grip on the handlebars. Made with a D-Dry® membrane and thermoplastic resin inserts on the knuckles, this glove in elasticated fabric also vaunts elasticated inserts for better movement of the hand and a reinforced palm.
JERICO EVO GORE-TEX® GLOVE
$269.95
RRP INC GST
Specially designed for touring in extreme weather conditions, this glove features Techno™ inserts on the knuckles and joints as well as goatskin reinforcement and numerous other clever touches which were developed to provide a very high degree of protection. The Gore-Tex® membrane and thermal Primaloft® lining along with double waterproof cu s guarantee protection from cold, wet weather. There are numerous elasticated inserts, zips on the cu s, pre-curved ngers and soft inserts which make Jerico Evo Gore-Tex® gloves both extremely comfortable and ergonomic on even long journeys.
Stuart is wearing an XRH helmet, Ugly Fish glasses, H-D jacket, M2R Aero gloves and Draggin jeans.
“THAT H-D BADGE GOES A LONG WAY AND WILL DO SO IN THE MANY THOUSANDS OF STREETS THAT WILL BE SOLD”
HARLEYDAVIDSON STREET 500
ON THE STREET: A MINI V-ROD
WORDS STUART WOODBURY PHOTOS THE BEAR
Theworld was shocked when HarleyDavidson announced that the factory was going to make a 500 and a 750cc liquid-cooled motorcycle. The reaction was similar to the way the V-Rod was received; many stalwarts thought H-D had lost its way and traditionalists criticised the Motor Company for making another bike that was “different” from the way a Harley “should be” and what size engine it should have.
Of course they were all conveniently forgetting the many smaller-capacity bikes with varying engine configurations that H-D has built over the century-plus that it’s been operating. I mean, consider that during WW2, Milwaukee even built a thousand horizontally-opposed BMW copies!
The new bikes, of which we will only get the LAMS approved Street 500s, look a bit like a mix between a V-Rod and a traditional Harley. When we got word that the first Street 500s had arrived in Australia, I jumped on and took it out for a spin. It is actually more V-Rod like than “traditional” Harley, but that’s fine. I have no doubt H-D dealers across the country will be crying out for stock as these bikes fly off the showroom floor. Housed in the tubular steel frame is an all-new liquid-cooled “Revolution X” V-twin engine, claimed to thrive on high temperatures and heavy traffic. This is a good thing, of course, seeing that the bikes are built in and for India, as well as for us. Liquid-cooling helps maintain temperature and performance as the sixty degree cylinder angle and 4 valves per head offer plenty of low-end torque,
especially for the bike’s capacity. And the Revolution X does like to rev, just like its big brother V-Rod.
A 6-speed gearbox is well matched to the characteristics of the engine, with both being quite smooth in operation. The clutch on the other hand was originally a bit too jerky for my liking, but once the engine got hot, it did work okay.
Braking is a disappointment. The front brake has little power and even with a hard squeeze, you still wonder if it’s going to help you stop. The rear does have an adequate amount of power and rather than relying on the front as the main brake, it was the rear I called on to do most of the stopping for me.
Build quality is my other concern with the Street. It is quite roughly finished off in many areas. There is wiring that could be routed better and the paintwork is not to the standard I would expect of the H-D brand, just to name a couple of things. Sure, this bike has been built to a price point, but look at other motorcycles at this price and even cheaper ones – they are better finished. I doubt whether this will affect sales overall, but it may disappoint some potential owners.
Yes, the Street 500 is built in India. Should that matter to quality? No. I’m sure H-D has its own quality control procedures in place to ensure the product meets their targets; perhaps the bikes we have received so far in Australia were from early batches which were still being sorted out.
Handling is smooth and the bike is well suspended. You have preload adjustable
Revvy engine, just like big bro, the V-Rod.
That badge will help sell thousands of Streets.
twin shocks on the rear if you feel you need a bit more support, but I’m not especially light and I like the way the Street rides bumps, and turn in is very light and stable. At 206kg, the Street is very easy to manage for just about any sized rider.
A low seat at 709mm will suit many, as will the mid mounted footpegs –mostly those under 185cm. At my 195cm, I felt cramped, but the shorter Bear liked how the seating position is set up.
Styling is very much mini V-Rod. A skinny big front wheel, “fat” rear wheel and a short duck tail are all reminiscent of H-D’s powerhouse. Even the Michelin tyre pattern is the same as the V-Rod’s,
1. Without the accessory screen, it changes the entire “look” of the Street.
2. Centre stand comes standard.
SPECS
HARLEY-DAVIDSON STREET 500
PRICE: $9995 (ride away)
WARRANTY:Two years, unlimited distance
SERVICING INTERVALS: Every 8000km or 12 months
ENGINE: Liquid-cooled V-twin cylinder, 4-stroke, DOHC, 4 valves per cylinder
BORE x STROKE: 69 x 66mm
DISPLACEMENT: 494cc
Lack of braking power is a disappointment.
complete with Harley-Davidson logos. The radiator is probably as neat as you could get it on a cruiser like this and the shape of the tank is nice.
Accessories are extensive, as you would expect from Harley. Our test bike had an accessory screen which looked quite nice. I didn’t see any forward controls, which would allow taller riders to be comfortable, but I have no doubt someone will make a set for the aftermarket.
Despite some downsides, the HarleyDavidson Street 500 will sell like badges at a HOG convention, especially at the remarkable $9995 ride away price tag. Chuck a pipe on it and let the Revolution X engine bounce soundwaves across the city, just like an open-piped V-Rod’s does. Many customisers will also want the badge on the tank to make the basis to create a cool ride – that H-D badge goes a long way and will do so in the many thousands of Streets that will be sold. If you want one, I suggest getting your order in as soon as you can. There might be a long wait…
COMPRESSION: 11.0:1
POWER: N/A
TORQUE: 40Nm @ 3500rpm
TRANSMISSION: 6-speed, wet multi-plate clutch, belt final drive
FUEL CONSUMPTION: 5.03 litres per 100km, premium unleaded
THEORETICAL RANGE: 260km
COLOURS: Black Denim, Fire Red, Vivid Black
VERDICT: MINI “V” HAS ARRIVED
“JUST PAST ALBION PARK RAIL, BEYOND THE URBAN SPRAWL.”
GREAT SOUTHERN
SYDNEY DAY RIDE TO THE SOUTH
Imagine Sydney for a moment without the Blue Mountains, and the rest of the nearby Great Dividing Range. In my column in MOTOR magazine I once suggested that we should just bulldoze the mountains into the Harbour, thus simultaneously creating a vast parking lot where the water had been, and flat road access to the rest of the continent. Fortunately, Nathan Tinkler and Joe Tripodi weren’t reading the magazine at the time and this did not come to pass. No, seriously, guys, I was kidding… Nathan, put down that protractor… Motorcyclists have it pretty good with the mountains just the way they are. But nowhere do we have it as good as we do in the south. Follow me now as we make the most of this, on a highly enjoyable day ride…
Take the Princes Highway south to Loftus and chuck a lefty through National Park. Beware of tricky corners and tricky cops, not necessarily in that order. If you feel like a dip in the
WORDS/PHOTOS THE BEAR
surf, turn off to Garie Beach; it’s the most easily accessible ocean beach in National Park. Make sure you pay the park fee at the entrance station if you’re going to stop here or anywhere else; if you’re just passing through it’s free. Once out of the park, stop at the Bald Hill lookout to admire all the other bikes and have their riders admire yours. If the van is there it might be time for an ice cream?
When you take to the road again, do not be tempted by the turnoff that snakes down into Stanwell Park (that’s another ride), but continue straight ahead for a while. Just past Symbio Wildlife Park, turn left at the roundabout into the old Princes Highway. This is not the equal of the Old Road to the north of Sydney, but then again it is not as infested by bicyclists or policemen, either. Before long you will reach the lookouts at Bulli Tops; it’s worth stopping for a look at the view. I suggest the second,
southerly one, which is smaller and does quite nice coffee and cakes. Bulli Pass itself is remarkably short considering its reputation, but fun anyway. Watch the last hairpin, where the road widens. It can lull you into a false sense of security.
If you’re hungry you could turn north at the bottom of the pass to Thirroul, which has a number of interesting cafés. If not, carry on south through Bulli township at the bottom and take the left turn into Memorial Drive, which will take you, in the security of a dual carriageway, to the connection with the Princes Motorway at Wollongong University. Note that you will pass Towradgi, where both Wayne Gardner and I went to primary school. Mind you, he was a bit later than I was... You want to turn right when you get to the Princes Motorway, and go north up Mt Ousley Road. Bit of oil and diesel on the road here, so watch it. Keep an eye on the trucks, too.
At the top edge of the scarp, turn left and then left again to Mt Keira. You can actually ride to the top of this stone monolith (passable coffee at the kiosk), or you can bypass the spur road that leads there and drop back down to Wollongong instead. This is a terrific bike road, quite narrow but otherwise everything you could wish for. Once you get to the T intersection at the bottom, turn left if you want to go into Wollongong for any reason. Turn right and make your way back onto the Princes Freeway otherwise. Head south past the big pagoda which marks the extensive and beautifully landscaped Nan Tien Temple on your left. If you’re interested in taking a look at the temple, you should have turned off the freeway at the exit you’ve just passed to Five Islands Road and then followed the signs up Glastonbury Avenue.
Eventually it is time you left the Princes Highway again anyway. You do this immediately after you cross the Macquarie River, when you turn right into the Illawarra Highway. If you pass Illawarra Regional Airport on your right you’ve gone too far. Mind you, there is a terrific air museum at the airport. If you’ve got the correct road you will soon find yourself at Albion Park Rail where the highway turns right and you ought to follow it. From here, you are in for one of the most pleasant rides on the NSW coast, all the way up the valley to the foot of Macquarie Pass. Apart from having an outstanding collection of signs here, the pass is also a terrific ride – just don’t get overconfident, there are some tricky corners including a spectacular left
1. What is it with people who deface road signs?
2. A true and meaningful sign at the top of the Illawarra scarp.
3. It’s not just a steep descent, it’s narrow as well. Perfect for a bike.
4. There are some terrific corners on Macquarie Pass.
hand hairpin that has caught out more than one rider. Right, Jimmy Barnes? There is also a certain hazard from oncoming cars, trucks – and other bikes. Some riders just don’t know their own capabilities…
At the top of the pass is the Robertson Pie Shop, which has kind of ordinary pies and coffee. Turn left instead opposite the shop and get stuck into the next of our scarp roads: down to Jamberoo. This is a relatively empty road which becomes a little technical at times, and can be a bit rough. Just take it carefully. At the bottom there’s a T-junction. Turn right to Jamberoo with its popular pub and continue to the pleasant little seaside centre of Kiama.
From here you have some options to get you back to Sydney. Take the highway south through the Kiama Bends, which are no longer the suicidal challenge they once were (but are still fun), to Berry where a sign on the right-hand side of the road will direct you to Kangaroo Valley and eventually Sydney. But that’s another story, so we might leave it… for another story. Should there be a bit of a
sea running (ie if there are big waves) you might like to carry on straight ahead down to the point to see if the blow hole is blowing. The ‘whoomp’ as it does its thing is quite impressive, although the plumes are not as high as they were when I was a kid.
But then, what is?
If there’s no blowing going on we’ll turn left, or north, in Kiama at the roundabout on the corner of Terralong and Collins Streets. Is it time for lunch or a snack? I can recommend the little café on your right just after the roundabout. Especially for desserts, not that I’ve ever, err, sampled any. Then, heavier but happier, continue to where you reach the Princes Freeway and head north on the nice new highway. When you get back to the Mt Ousley turnoff at Wollongong University, turn left to go up the scarp again. Please note that the road turning left up the hill is the one on the right! Follow the signs and not your common sense.
When you get to the top this time don’t turn left but go straight on. This
Many of the roads on this ride are just like this.
takes you over a nice, well surveyed and surfaced back road past (quite often) a car or two decorated with blue and white checks, to the top of Bulli Pass again. Take the second turnoff to the left, marked to Appin. This is another good back road, not as well maintained but fairly quiet most of the time. I like the pub in Appin; we used to drink here after sky diving at Wilton, and I still drop in occasionally when I’m in the neighbourhood. I don’t go sky diving any more. Motorcycling provides thrills enough…
What I suggest you do here is turn south again and head for Picton, but turn onto the South Western Freeway and return home that way. You could get to the freeway by way of Campbelltown, but there’s a lot of suburban sprawl to cross that way. And as for that idea of bulldozing the Blue Mountains into the Harbour –forget I suggested that, all right?
TEX & BUNDY FLAT-OUT FESTIVE SEASON
Hiall. Well, it has been a busy Xmas / New Year period for Tex and me. We reeled off several hospital visits and the Kings X Bikers Toy Run all in the lead up to Xmas, then a couple of old age homes before the New Year.
All is good though, we managed a couple of days off where we weren’t on the bike at all! Tex took me down to the beach several times so I could run amok, play ball, swim in the surf, bark at other dogs and just have a good time in general. We agreed there should be more of it, and you can bet that I’ll be nipping at Tex’s heels to make sure he keeps his promise.
Already, 2015 is shaping up to be every bit as busy as last year. We have a couple of nursing homes for the elderly to visit this month along with a couple of local community projects. February is WSBK at P.I., we hope to see as many of you as possible down there. There’s also the Bright (Vic) Adventure Film Festival, a definite must for the adventure riders. We will be doing a presentation over the film festival weekend.
Remember, next time you see a cattle dog coming towards you and staring at you with sunnies on, give us a wave! Till next time.
LUV, BUNDY
BYou can find us at these events;
• Adventure travel film Festival 13-15Feb Bright Victoria.
• WSBK 20 -22 Feb Phillip Island T & B will be in the Expo’ tent with Moto Guzzi/Aprilia and at Euphoria Cafe Cowes in the evenings.
• Al’s Ride 28 Feb Bathurst NSW Bowling club.
• Bike Me – Gimme Shelter 14 -15 Mar Tumbarumba Creek Caravan Park.
• Please check Tex & Bundy Charity Fundraisers (Facebook) for more information about upcoming events we will be visiting.
BRAKE IT UP
THE COMPANY MOST TRUSTED TO STOP YOU
“Anyone can do simple things, but only a few can handle difficult ones. We have to deal with the difficult ones.”
Emilio Bombassei
Braking might not come immediately to mind when you think about motorcycling’s difficult things. After all, we want to go faster, don’t we – not slower. That’s an attitude especially associated with Italians. There is a story that Ferruccio Lamborghini, having been chided for fitting poor brakes to one of his cars, said that he built cars to go, not to stop. But of course that’s misleading; the faster you can stop, the faster you can go – safely.
It’s only reasonable, then, that the name that is perhaps associated more with sophisticated brakes than any other – on motorcycles, cars, trucks, industrial vehicles and machinery; and even in the aerospace industry - should also be Italian.
Brembo was founded in 1961, when motor cars were coming into reach for much of the population. Emilio Bombassei, the current President’s father, set up a small family-run workshop near Bergamo north-east of Milan. He had a lot of experience in mechanics and metal working, which got the workshop contracts with companies like Alfa Romeo.
In 1964, Brembo demonstrated its expertise by manufacturing the first Italian brake discs, replacing imports from Great Britain. These were initially for the aftermarket. This was quickly followed by other braking system components, and in 1972, the Brembo brand was applied to motorcycles manufactured in Europe. The bike manufacturer was Moto Guzzi.
Brembo quickly became a leader in the market of braking systems for two-wheeled vehicles.
Brake disc for the new Ducati Scrambler.
Today, Brembo is a world leader in the design, development and production of braking systems for the OE market, the aftermarket and especially racing. Today, brand names associated with Brembo include Breco, AP Racing Limited, Bybre, Marchesini and Sabelt, manufacturing everything from brake discs to racing clutches, brake calipers, master cylinders with their associated hardware, wheels and even seat belts. Possibly the most prestigious customer is down the road in Maranello: Ferrari. Teams equipped with Brembo brakes have won literally hundreds of car and motorcycle world championships.
The company has factories in Italy, UK, Poland, Slovakia, Czech Republic, Spain, Germany, Brazil, Argentina, the USA, Mexico, China and India.
DARLIN’ COMPANION
A CHALLENGING RIDE ALONG A MAJESTIC RIVER
WORDS/PHOTOS COLIN WHELAN
WENTWORTH
The town centre is to the west of the Darling and you’ll fi nd all grades of fuel available plus a SuperIGA on Sandwych St, just around the corner from the very well equipped and staffed Tourist Info Offi ce at 68 Darling St.
The Darling Junction Motel, is on the eastern side of the river at: 26 William St, T: 03 5027 3636, but if you need any servicing or tyre changing on your bike you’re best to ride back to Mildura and see the boys at Mildura Motorcycles at 733 Fifteenth St ( T: 03 5023 2046).
For Road Conditions for your ride north it’s best to go to the Council’s Tourism website at: www.visitwentworth.com.au and hit the links.
POONCARIE.
The General Store, known as the ‘Port Pitstop’ is open 7.30-6.00 M-F and 8.00-6.00 on weekends. You can get 91 and 98 BP fuel here and it’s best to top up here as part of your ‘keep the fl uids up’ routine!
MENINDEE
You can get 91 and 98 at Coombes Transport Depot at 10 Henley St and the best place to stay is at Maidens Hotel on Yartla St. (T 08 8091 4208) If you want to camp, probably it’s best to head west on Nora St and follow the brown signs to Kinchega National Park. You don’t have tar for long. At the park entrance take the fi rst left onto River Rd. You now have
the Darling River on your left elbow. Every few hundred metres you’ll fi nd a camping spot. If one’s already hosting some travellers, you can be pretty sure the next one’ll be free.
TILPA
Tilpa reminds me of the hostelry equivalent of a legal oath: it’s the pub, the whole pub and nothing but the pub. (so help you God). Actually it also sells 91 fuel but the price is bordering on exploitation and so better to keep going to Louth. Owned by locals but run by backpackers, one of whom had good English.
LOUTH
Louth is like Tilpa but here the pub, Shindy’s Inn, is still family owned and run and has the friendly feel of a family business. You’ll get the idea from their website at: http://shindysinn.com.au/ They sell BP 91 at a justifi able rate during pub hours.
WILCANNIA
There’s a couple of fuel outlets here. The very friendly Pat runs the BP on Martin St and sells 91 and 95 from 7.00am til 7.30pm everyday.
At Miss Barretts Coffee and Cake Café on Reid St. (T: 08 8091 5888) you’ll fi nd very acceptable coffee and delicious homemade cakes and slices which self described, “Shearers’ Cook” Chris, bakes fresh each morning. An absolute gem of a place, but not always open on weekends.
BOURKE
This town is nothing like you probable expect. Proud of its noble history with some beautifully restored and maintained buildings, friendly locals and a few good watering holes and cafés, topped off with at least one very good pub in the Port of Bourke on Mitchell St (T 02 6872 2544). Gotta say the Bourke Riverside Motel on Mitchell St also appealed as a place for couples to stay.
There’s a huge Supa IGA on Oxley St and the best bar and restaurant is the Diggers on the Darling inside the RSL at 23 Sturt St.
Paul runs the BP around on Mooculta St. It’s open and selling 91 and 95 on Mon to Sat from 4.30am til 8.00pm and an hour less at each end on Sundays.
And don’t forget…
Riding in the outback is hazardous and requires planning and care.
In addition to the usual tools clothing etc, we each carried the following essential equipment:
• A FindmeSpot GPS Satellite Messenger to message our ICE’s when we are all good, or when we need help.
• Scala Rider inter-bike coms so that we could keep in contact with each other
• GME UHF transceiver to keep in contact with local heavy vehicles and homesteads
• Mobile phones
• You should NEVER be totally out of contact.
• Also: spare tubes, tyre levers
and a 12V compressor for infl ating tyres. Using this stuff, Robb changed a rear tube and was back riding in 22 minutes!
• A Camelbak 3 litre hydration backpack with another 3 litre backup. We didn’t leave any town without 6 litres of water each.
UP THOSE SKILLS
TEACHING AN OLD DOG OLD TRICKS WORDS/PHOTOS ROB LOVAS
Iwasone of half a dozen on Skillmaster’s inaugural Newcastle one day ‘Upskilling’ course; both sexes and all sorts of experience/inexperience and a variety of bikes from cruisers to naked street bikes to massive tourers. Mine was a naked 650 v-twin.
The course was held, of course, on a course. In this case, a bitumen surfaced go-cart track. It was ideal. A relatively short circuit on the side of a gently sloping hill, it had a good surface, plenty of tight turns with varying degrees of camber and with a couple of double apex corners. By use of some witches’ hats, our tutors Paul and Patrick were able to plot out a route which met the needs of the day.
First we had a sit-down tutorial, complete with PowerPoint displays and a white board. Then, after checking and adjusting various brake, clutch and gear
levers on our bikes we headed out to practice turning. The three most important lessons of this part of the day were:
1. LOOK AS FAR AHEAD AS YOU CAN AS YOU APPROACH AND GO AROUND A CORNER
This was not news to me. I’d been taught it 40 years ago when learning to drive. In fact, it doesn’t only apply to cornering. I remember being taught to “watch the horizon” when driving on country highways. Of course, having been taught it once, doesn’t mean I was in the habit of doing it. I wasn’t. I find it quite counter-intuitive. Most people (and certainly I) tend to look at the road some medium distance ahead of the
bike. That is, our gaze tends to travel with the bike a few, or a few tens of, metres in front of it. This was precisely what we were told not to do.
The way Paul taught it, you had to fix your gaze on the point of the road where you wanted to be when the turn ended. This took a fair bit of concentration.
So, for example, if you entered a 180° corner with no trees or walls obstructing your view, you had to start the corner with your head turned 90° across your shoulder and your eyes fixed on the point where the corner ended. At times, this meant you were fixing your gaze well and truly behind your shoulder. You had to ‘keep an eye’ on the road surface and the margins of the road with your peripheral vision only.
As I say, for me this is not natural; and even though I’ve been practicing it diligently since doing the course, I still
find myself reverting to old ways. The trick is to trust the bike and the road surface. It turns out that they will stick together even if you’re not staring directly at every square centimeter along the way!
2. BROOM HANDLE TURNING
This is also something I had come across before and had forgotten. Essentially, it’s the practice of keeping your upper body upright while cornering rather than leaning with the bike.
I learned to ride on a mate’s early ‘70s Honda TL125, going up and down steep banks of dry creek beds and using the river banks in much the same way as a skate boarder uses a half-pipe. Doing that, it was natural to turn the bike by pressing your knees against the tank and pushing against wide handlebars. So, if I wanted to turn to the left, I’d pretty much push the bike away from me to the left. The result was that the bike leaned but I didn’t. More often than not, I’d be doing this standing up or, at least, with most of my weight off the seat. After I got my license, I graduated to road bikes and I was taught to do the opposite. That is, to lean with the bike and, indeed, to lean further than the bike. This made sense – or so it seemed to me. Travelling together, the bike and I are one body of mass. The more my weight was being used to turn into the corner, the less the bike itself had to lean.
Paul teaches that my former practice is the better one, even on the road and even at speed. Instead of leaning your body into a corner, you push (not turn) the handlebars into the direction you want to turn. The bike will do the rest.
3. USING THE REAR BRAKE WHILE TURNING
Now, this was new to me. It involves simultaneously using the rear brake, the clutch and the throttle. As a teen,
I had been taught that to ‘ride the clutch’ was a motoring sin. Now I was being taught it was a virtue; and, boy, doesn’t it make riding easier when you’ve finally got ‘permission’ to do it. Among other things, it gives an extraordinary ability to balance the bike at extraordinary low speeds.
That said, it is still a skill which has to be learned and practiced. Paul does this through some very slow riding exercises: Figures of eight, witches’ hat chicanes and the like. As Paul accurately pointed out, most riders look their most uncomfortable and ride most clumsily when trying to do a U-turn. I know that I find doing tight U-turns on, say, a large cruiser one of the hardest aspects of motorcycling. This lesson is just what you need to overcome this discomfort.
Also, this skill is particularly useful when lane-filtering. Keeping various cars’ mirrors clear of the bike’s handlebars or mirrors at sub-5 km/h without putting a foot to the ground may not turn any heads but it sure feels like you’re in charge.
Throughout all of these lessons and practice sessions, Paul and Patrick were watching our arms and shoulder for rigidity. It’s remarkable how easily you stiffen up when concentrating on something new or difficult. Again and again – and despite every effort to remember for myself – either Patrick or Paul would point to me (thankfully, not only me) and flap their chicken winged shoulders to tell me to relax.
In the afternoon it was speed time. In particular, lessons and practice on emergency braking and emergency obstacle avoidance. Unfortunately, I had to miss out on this. I was familiar with the theory – set up the transfer of weight to the front and then squeeze smoothly and as firmly as the circumstances permit. It was a pity I couldn’t practice this on the day. It’s
easy to say that emergency stopping is something which can and should be practiced frequently; but who actually takes the trouble to do it on public streets? I looked on as the others practiced some hard braking on the race track with an instructor watching them. It looked like fun.
I’ve been riding for about 35 years. I should have done a course like this at least a couple of decades ago – about the time my bad habits were becoming entrenched. Better late than never, though.
A bit of bad luck
The session started on time – of course, I mistimed my trip and arrived a bit late.
We were being taught how to use our rear brake gently - of course, my disc was warped.
We were being taught how to ride slowly and smoothly with a constant drive tension on the rear wheel while braking – of course, my chain had a tight spot.
We were being taught how to slip the clutch while braking – of course, my clutch was slipping a bit without my help.
We were doing tight turns, chicanes and fi gures-of-eight – of course, I had a 24 hour bug which made me very queasy. In fact, I had to sit out the last session.
But it was still a highly valuable day.
COME AND JOIN ME LET’S RIDE THE WEST
This is the year. In 2015, I’ll finally get the chance to ride some of the best motorcycle roads in the world - with you! I am inviting you, our readers, along on The Bear’s Best of the West ride in the US in August. With the expert help of Steven “Skip” Schippers of Great American Motorcycle Touring I was able to tweak one of his tours so that it covered the roads I want to ride.
If you’ve been reading my stories, you have probably realised how much I enjoy touring the western United States. Now I can show you why.
On my visits I’ve found some special places, and I really like the idea of sharing them with you directly, not just on paper.
This is a 16 day tour with 14 days of riding. Milestones along the way include well-known attractions like the Pacific Coast, one of the most iconic stretches of Route 66, and Monument Valley, plus national parks like Death Valley Yosemite, Kings Canyon, Sequoia and Zion. All linked by superb roads in weather that should be wonderful – although I obviously can’t guarantee that. On top of that you’ll have a chance to meet
Cost is very reasonable, ranging from $5,995 per person for two people sharing one bike and one room, to $7,195 per person and a bike sharing a room with someone else, and $8,995 per person with a bike and a single room. Cost of air fares is not included, and all costs are quoted in US dollars. With a bit of luck, the Oz dollar will climb again, but even at the present rate this is good value! Mention my name when you book and you’ll get a discount of $300 per motorcycle.
Price includes Harley-Davidson rental; you get a first and second choice of model. Specific BMW and Honda models may be available at an additional cost of $40 per day.
You’ll need to arrive in LA on or before 15th August (by 2:00 PM) and you can plan to leave anytime on or after the
The western US is possibly the most scenic part of the world. It just keeps coming.
30th. Extra hotel days before or after can be arranged. Absolute deadline for booking is the 15th of June, but I would obviously suggest you get in before that; the maximum number of participants is 20. Members of the Bear Army are especially welcome, and will have the opportunity to share a pre-tour special evening with the grumpy old bugger – hey, who’s writing this?! – on the evening of the 14th at his favourite TexMex restaurant, the Baja Cantina. For more information and bookings, please email Skip at skip@gamct. com, and copy me in at thebear@ ausmotorcyclist.com.au . Skip and I will lead the tour. Love to see you, and let’s fill the tour entirely with MOTORCYCLIST readers!
BUT THAT’S NOT ALL
Ofcourse there are other tours out there, and while we haven’t sampled all of the ones advertised in this magazine, we are certain that there is a lot of value to be had elsewhere too.
Take Edelweiss, for instance. Among their new offerings is a tour of The Republic of the Union of Myanmar, once known as Burma and now simply Myanmar. Yes, unbelievable as it may sound you can now actually ride through the place. The tour begins in Bangkok and visits
Rivers almost seem to take the place of roads in many SE Asian countries, and you can live on them too.
motorcycle design legend Craig Vetter, and share a meal with him.
places like Hpa-An, Taungoo and Inle Lake. It also stops in Bagan, where you can take an optional early morning balloon flight over the temple complex. The tour ends back in Thailand in Chiang Mai.
They also have a new tour of Iceland with its frozen glaciers, steaming volcanoes, and vast and pristine scenery. The tour includes the most famous road in Iceland – the Ring Road or Hringvegur – as well as a visit to Vatnajökull National Park.
Take a look at www.edelweissbike. com/en/ for more tours and information.
AND NOW FOR SOMETHING…
Not completely, but somewhat different. The very best guided offroad motorcycle trail tours in the dirt biking paradise of inland Andalucia, Spain – at least according to the operator, Riders of the Lost Trail.
“From aboard one of our KTM EXC-F 350 (2013) enduro / trail motorbikes, you will experience one of the most personally rewarding and exciting motorcycle adventures you can imagine,” writes Phil Wood, the founder and chief guide.
“We are based in Cortes de la Frontera, which is nestled within the mountains of Inland Andalucia, and yet is conveniently situated between the four major airports of Malaga,
STILL GETTING DIRTY
Dakar legend Simon Pavey recently returned to the Victorian High Country for the first time in ten years.
Simon and his UK based Off Road Skills team were there to conduct a weekend training school followed by a five day ride-out to put into practice was had been learnt.
“The terrain was both varied and challenging and offered all riders a great opportunity to hone their off road skills” said Simon, “the route chosen was simply stunning and was immensely enjoyed by riders and instructors alike.”
Seville, Gibraltar, and Jerez.
“We offer tours for all skill levels. If you are a complete novice, or an experienced rider, we welcome you with open arms. Our off-road motorbike tours are FUN! Our guides have lived in the area for many years, and have an understanding and knowledge of not just the bikes and trails, but of the local flora and fauna, and of local culture.
Accommodation is in self-catering apartments, where the ‘after ride beer’ is always a welcome sight.
“Our priority at Riders of the Lost Trail is to provide all its riders with a chance to experience this wonderful part of Spain,” continues Phil, “while having a chance to re-kindle the spirit of adventure.”
Spain is a wonderful place for gravel roads.
Simon also announced that the 2015 off road skills course and fiveday ride-out will be held in Tasmania early November. “It promises to be yet another fantastic ride experience with some stunning scenery thrown in,” says Simon.
Already 50% booked, from previous High Country event riders, the “Tassie” trip is sure to sell out quickly.
Simon would like to thank BMW Australia for supplying the superb R1200 GS LC for this event.
For more information on next year’s event email info@compassexpeditions. com, visit www.compassexpeditions. com or call 1300 887 327
RIGHT IN THE MIDDLE
Orchard Farm is a biker friendly bed & breakfast located in the middle of the Great War battlefield of the Somme in Northern France. Kate & Martin Pegler visited France & Flanders for over 35 years usually by bike and decided to move there in 2005. They chose the Somme because of its rolling countryside and empty sweeping roads. It’s perfect
Sombre sunset on a military cemetery
TOUR DE OZ
PART 1 – STARTING OUT ON THE LONG WAY AROUND AUSTRALIA
WORDS/PHOTOS KINGA TANAJEWSKA
Igotthe job! And that meant a move from the Sydney plant to work in the mines out in WA. This was my chance: after seven years of living in Australia, I could finally realise my life-long dream of a solo ride around this great continent. I had four months to prepare for the trip. First stop: a new bike. My trusty FZ6 and I have had great times together, but she’d be no match for the dirt and sand roads that lay ahead. So we scratched around and got a loan for my dream bike: a BMW F800GS. The package included all the necessary accessories and some new clothes too.
Then, I had an idea: why not put the ‘hard yards’ to good use by making it a ‘charity ride’? And so I did: to raise funds and awareness for The Shepherd Centre, a terrific organisation which ‘gives deaf children a voice’ by helping them learn how to listen and speak. Prior to setting off, I even had the pleasure of visiting the Shepherd Centre central office in Sydney where I met with the awesome team, the kids, and got a tour of the their excellent facilities.
The planning of the route started much earlier, in dreams since I was in my early 20s, and more proactively over the last few years as I
collected good advice and tips from other local riders. And of course, the seasons and weather play a big role in a trip like this, so after some research I decided to go anti-clockwise starting in April.
Due to work and finances, I split the trip into two stages: 1) Sydney – Qld –NT – Port Hedland (9500 km). Then work in WA for 6 months, followed by the rest of the trip: WA – SA – Vic –Sydney (8500 km).
WEEK 1 (NEW SOUTH WALES - QUEENSLAND)
Finally came the day of departure – my gear was all packed, and really heavy, but I couldn’t care less: I was smiling from ear to ear, and couldn’t believe it was finally happening.
I started my journey on 28th March, taking the inland twisty roads from Sydney – ‘cause soon I won’t have a choice and will have to stick to the long, straight highways. I camped in Uralla the first night, then headed off to Nimbin – a very relaxed and laid back hippy town. I got a few rocks in my tyres, but managed to avoid getting stoned!
I spent my last day in NSW camping in Byron Bay at the famous Blues & Roots Festival – and finally got to see some of my favourites live: Robert Plant, Robert Cray and Taj Mahal!
After crossing the border into Queensland, I managed to find a few free places to pitch a tent - sometimes in the bush, sometimes in a parking lot off the highway, until I finally arrived at the charming port town of Townsville.
WEEK 2 (QUEENSLAND)
I caught the ferry to Magnetic Island, famous for its turquoise water and coral reefs. The island is also known for its luxury, five-star hotels, but staying on the island doesn’t have to be expensive: I paid $25 for two nights at the campground, right on the beach.
Two blissful days of lounging later, combined with a nice ride around the island, I hit the road and headed north along the coast of the Great Barrier Reef. Unfortunately, the weather was not so great, with the non-stop rain washing away any desire for going diving and the
like. Still, a little aqua wasn’t going to prevent me from touring the Cape Tribulation region, although the irony of taking photos of waterfalls during a downpour wasn’t lost on me.
I finally headed west via the Savannah Way, and I have to say, in my life I have never seen so many wild animals; kangaroos, emus, dingoes and wild horses – all darting in front of my bike in a semi-picturesque, semihazardous kind of way. Did I mention the pouring rain?
WEEK 3 (NORTHERN TERRITORY)
Crossing the border into the Northern Territory was a moment I’d been waiting for a very, very long time. For me, this is where the “Outback” begins, the one I grew up dreaming about as a little girl back in Poland. The wilderness, the red dirt and high temperatures, and the solitary journey on deserted roads. This is what it’s all about.
Most of the roads in the Northern Territory are straight as an arrow, and you can legally dart along at 130 km/h. Also, there are virtually no speed cameras, so it’s very tempting to see if you can squeeze out whatever it is they put in when they were building this bike, but I was good: I limited myself to a comfortable 140 km/h, and kept an eye out for kangaroos, which don’t seem terribly aware that we share the landscape with them.
Next stop: Darwin. And on the way, in the surrounding region, I chanced through some absolutely magical national parks (Nitmiluk, Litchfield, oh, and Kakadu), full of natural thermal pools, caves, waterfalls and crocodiles. And it’s hard to explain, but you tend to overlook the whole crocodile thing when looking for solace after riding in 40-degree heat. Not completely though – seriously: pay attention to the signs.
In Darwin, unfortunately, I had one of the few negative experiences of the whole trip. I had to have a service done in a local workshop, and after eight hours of waiting, some unpleasant discussions with the management (to put it lightly), I had to make a few calls to BMW Australia to set things
straight. In the end, I was able to prove that they were incompetent (or to be more frank: trying to trick me) and reduced the unnecessary $1200 bill they racked up down to the $600 of parts and labour that I actually needed.
WEEK 4 (NORTHERN TERRITORY - WESTERN AUSTRALIA)
When planning the trip, I assumed that I would stay out in the bush on my own, in a tent, every night, and anyone who knows me knows I’m happiest when I’m camping. But, purely from a hygienic standpoint, I had to make some exceptions. 600 kilometres a day in 40 degree heat, and impossibly high humidity, and there came a point where a proper shower is just called for. Virtually every petrol station is a ‘roadhouse’ with simple, but nice accommodation for every budget. Personally, I used the cheapest option, or a camp ground with amenities.
Speaking of camping, it was in NT where I set up camp at the lovely Timber Creek, just 20m from a picturesque river. As it turns out ... it’s full of crocodiles. Jam packed. Fortunately, I woke up in one piece, but like I said: pay attention to the signs.
And speaking of crocodiles, the border with Western Australia greeted me with a wide, wild and red landscape, an incredible sight. The first night of camping was on the great Lake Argyle, in which 30,000 crocodiles live. That’s not a typo, but to be clear, that’s thirty thousand crocodiles. For obvious reasons, swimming in the lake is not advisable, but the camp site up on
the hill itself is safe, and has a large swimming pool which overlooks the lake. The next day, despite some fast and efficient riding, I was unable to do more than 500km. The heat was terrible. I drank about three litres of water but was somehow still completely dehydrated. So I took the first camping sign I encountered … and ended up on a cattle farm. This so called “camp site” (read: uninhabited steppe with a toilet) would have to do, and I was so tired, so drained from the heat that I decided to sleep on a picnic table. Made sense at the time.
And despite the swarms of mosquitoes that attacked me from all sides, I regret nothing. Nothing. This was a night I’ll always remember, because for the first time in my life I could see stars from horizon to horizon. It’s an amazing experience. Simply unforgettable.
THE GRAND FINALE OF PART 1
The first town that welcomed me on the west coast was Broome. After thousands of kilometres in a cloud of red dust, it was nice to see sandy beaches once again. And do something touristy, like riding a camel as the sun set over the Indian Ocean. That’d do nicely thank you very much.
So came the last day of my tour (well, the last of the first part, anyway) with a brilliant night at 80 Mile Beach. And just 150km from the finish line I decided to suddenly dismount in an acrobatic display of artistry. This, I might add, was not planned. No bull, just some bull dust. Fortunately, the motorcycle and I walked away unscathed, and, looking on the bright side, I was able to prove to myself something I needed to know: that
I can lift my GS all alone – something I’m incredibly proud of. This was our first fall together, and it wasn’t to be the last … (hint: you have to read Part 2).
So after 30 days and 9500km of riding I made it to Port Hedland to start six months of FIFO work. Part 2 will encompass heading south to SA and then east across Victoria on the way back to Sydney: stay tuned!
REFLECTIONS
At the end of the first stage of my trip I felt sort of sad – couldn’t believe it was over so quickly (admittedly, I took my time, but still). Riding through the deserted northern parts of Australia, where the only sign of civilisation are gas stations about 300km apart, was an amazing and eye-opening experience: I found, despite the fact that most of the time you only have yourself for company, you somehow don’t get lonely.
Other things I learnt that seem a bit ‘Captain Obvious’ in hindsight include how on guard you have to be, even ‘in the middle of nowhere’ … e.g. when passing and overtaking road trains, at high speed, the windy air pressure next to them can almost knock you off. And, of course, you have to remember about the wild animals: we’re in their territory, Outback, and they’re not terribly fussed about the difference between bush and road.
And so I worked at my new job (which I love!) before getting back on my bike to finish the tour, which was again full of surprises, unforgettable moments and adventures.
Join me on my blog: onherbike.com ; facebook.com/onherbike
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Undera thousand words he says… how the heck am I going to keep it under a thousand words?
Does he know where I am? Does he know what I need to cover? One month in the south west of WA needs THREE thousand words! Oh dear – what to include and what to leave out?
Well I have to mention the Tin Horse Highway. The community has gone to so much trouble to attract the visitors with 20 kilometres of 44 gallon drum “horse” sculptures, how can I just skip over it? One simply MUST stop at the Kulin Museum to see the Sunbeam motorcycle. And Wave Rock is notable even though Gorge Rock has a much better campsite and swimming hole. And I can’t possibly omit Chittering or the New Norcia monastery. Did I mention the wildflowers? Oh… what a display! The fullsize replica of Stonehenge is not everyone’s cup of tea but like Gnomesville, I am attracted by the spirit of the ridiculous and detour accordingly. (I actually visited Gnomesville twice after liberating a Perth gnome and setting it free amongst its own kind.) I suppose I could leave out the Corrigin Dog Cemetery and the Big Dog but then I’d have to leave out the Big Orange, the Big Marron and the Big Shears as well.
I should stick to the highlights then… umm, let me see.
Well, Margaret River of course. Food, wine, food, wine, chocolate, food and more wine. The Ten Thousand Calories a Day tour left me struggling to do up my motorcycle jacket. And poor Mo, my long-suffering little Postie bike which had already carried me 25,000km around Australia, already overloaded and unwieldy, had the good grace not to mention my spare tyre.
The south coast is another highlight. From Esperance where I went on a peacock spider hunt, along the dirt roads of the stunning Stirling Ranges down to Albany where John taught me to ride a PWC (personal water craft?); the coastline was stealing my heart. At Hopetoun I found sanctuary from a storm and at Denmark the spectacular William Bay and Elephant Rocks. In contrast to the north of WA, the tall trees of the South West held a majestic charm. The Valley of the Giants tree tops walk had me in awe although the Gloucester Tree at Pemberton did not entice me to scale its heights.
Each small town vies for the almighty tourist dollar with elaborate attractions
to tempt you off your chosen path. My convoluted route took me to Bridgetown to see the jigsaw museum, Cowaramup to see the Golden Cow (rump on a stump) and Meckering to visit the Big Camera and photographic museum.
So after rushing around the South West, some down time was on the cards. What better spot than Rottnest Island. I had met up with Linda Bootherstone, an author and fellow motorcyclist, and we spent a glorious week on the island exchanging engine power for pedal power. The island reeks in history having gone through many transitions from convict settlement to indigenous penal colony to WWII
gun battery and finally playground for the rich. It is trying to reinvent itself as ‘affordable island holiday for the average family’ and it caters well for the many groups who visit, however “affordable” could be contested.
Relaxing island holiday it certainly was. The pace of the entire island slows to a crawl… in fact it transports you straight back to 1950 and the beach holidays we enjoyed as children. The simple pleasures of reading a real book, ice cream on the boardwalk and a game of beach cricket.
The Barracks hostel accommodation was warm and inviting with interaction amongst the guests. On the last day of our stay we were treated to an off-road
Segway tour to visit the old WWII bunkers. What a superb piece of machinery taking us up sand hills and down rocky paths with the grin factor ever present. I did feel like I was cheating on Mo but as the old saying goes, what happens on the island, stays on the island.
To wrap up my time in the west, Linda and I attended the Horizons Unlimited Travellers meeting where we were each giving a presentation on our travels. Three days of inspiring talks, incredible films, hands-on demonstrations, introductions to new riding gear and a hundred enthused participants left us exhilarated and exhausted.
So there you go Mr Bear, under a thousand words yet so much more to say. I would have dearly loved to stay another month, especially to experience Albany’s Anzac celebrations but cross the Nullarbor I must – while it’s still cool enough to be a pleasure and not a chore. I am already planning my return.
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BOMBALA AWAY
OUR COLUMNIST SHOWS US HOW TO ENJOY
A SHOW
This was certainly Bombala. The sign said so and I had been here, or through here, many times before.
But it was not the Bombala I knew. The Bombala I knew was invariably cold –the temperature has always been in the single digits whenever I have stopped there for fuel or food.
I was there a month ago as I passed through on my way to the MotoGP and it was the expected five degrees. It was now 39 degrees. Go Global Warming, you great and good thing.
I had had an excellent ride from Sydney – all things considered, one of which was being booked for speeding. But the Road Gods were full of benevolence in that regard.
I had been whirring along on the Moto Guzzi California at what one might term a “heady pace” since leaving Sydney
early that morning. It was Friday, traffic was sparse, and I was rolling the dice. The Guzzi hummed along with surprising vigour and smoothness. Sure, it was more Milan than California with its two-tone seat, masses of convoluted chrome, vast Perspex screen and swoopy panniers, but it certainly had the goods on the road. It is one of the smoothest V-twins I have ever ridden. I’m not exaggerating when I say it’s up there with the silky Goldwing at speed. It is responsive and lopes along north of 140km/h with supreme effortlessness. It does tend to run out of steam as you approach the 190-mark, but by this stage it has left all the other cruiser twins (bar the Indian Chieftain) far behind. Stylistically, it’s not everyone’s cup of tea, and I far prefer the unscreened, unlight-fittinged and unbagged version in terms of aesthetics – but when you’re doing the miles, the screen, lights
2. Look out, he’s got a gun! The Bear Army will take anybody. 1 2
1. The only… err, vehicle at Bombala with its own postcode.
and panniers sure do come in handy. So where was I? Oh yeah – whirring along at a heady pace.
I whirred through to Goulburn, chucked a left and whirred along to Tarago, where I encountered a road crew. I stopped before the Lollipop Man, who looked at my bike, hauled out his wallet and showed me an image of his old Moto Guzzi Le Mans.
“That’s a real Guzzi!” he chortled.
“And where’s it broken down?” I asked. His face fell.
“In my shed,” he muttered. I rode off, turned right and went through Bungendore and Queanbeyan, before settling myself onto the California’s wonderful seat to enjoy the
WORDS BORIS MIHAILOVIC PHOTOS THE BEAR
blessings of the Monaro Highway. And they are many and they are perfectly suited to the Guzzi. They are also perfectly suited to 200bhp sportsbikes ridden by insane speed-fiends; giant stroked, rigid Shovelheads ridden by beer-addled hate-freaks, and just about everything in-between. It’s a very nice bit of road. Seems a damn shame to be bobbling along it at an altogether stupid 100km/h. So I wasn’t.
The oncoming Highway Patrol car that I encountered as I crested a hill probably was, but.
He lit himself up, and I pulled over in the shade of a solitary tree to wait while he performed a U-turn. I didn’t wait long. Good morning,” the policeman said as he came up to me.
“Good morning, officer,” I replied.
“I am Sergeant So-and-So from Soand-So Highway Patrol and I need to inform you that our conversation is being recorded and videoed. Have you anything to drink today?”
“No, I have not.”
“Please count to ten,” he said holding an orange breathalyser under my nose. I counted.
“Got your licence?” he asked. I produced my licence.
“I recognise that name,” he smiled. “I’ve read your stuff.”
I remained silent. No questions were being asked, and I was still unsure how this was gonna play out. I knew how fast I had been going when I came over that rise. And I was pretty sure he also had an idea about how fast I was going. We wouldn’t be here otherwise. Him knowing who I was, was either good, bad or irrelevant. Only time would tell.
“I clocked you at 149km/h coming over that crest,” he said. “Is there any reason why you were traveling at that speed?”
He and I both knew that since a ravening Tyrannosaurus had not yet appeared along the road, my answer was going to be very prosaic.
“It’s hot,” I said flatly. I do hate to disappoint when it comes to being prosaic.
He grinned at me. “Yes, it is,” he agreed, then asked me to wait until he performed some checks on his radio and left me
kicking stones and staring at the hills for a few minutes.
He emerged from the police car in short order, traffic infringement in hand.
“You’ve been pretty good since 2011,” he said cheerily.
“I haven’t been caught since 2011,” I thought to myself.
“You’d do a lot of miles in your job. It must be pretty hard to keep a licence.”
“It sure is,” I agreed, wondering how long I’d be sitting it out for after this little escapade.
“You have 21 days to either pay this or have it dealt with by a court,” he said, handing me the infringement notice.
“Any questions?”
“No,” I said, looking at what he’d written on the ticket.
“I’ve got a Guzzi, you know,” he said chattily. “An older one than this. Good thing, is it?”
“Yes, it’s great,” I replied. “Where’s yours broken down?”
“In my garage,” he sighed.
We both enjoyed a companionable silence while he considered his broken Moto Guzzi and I considered my traffic infringement.
“Have a nice day,” he said, and walked back to his car.
I looked at my infringement notice again, and said: “You too, officer.” And I meant it.
He had booked me for 10km/h over the limit.
He had not booked me for 49km/h over the limit.
I genuinely hoped he pulled over a car full of coked-up supermodels and had himself a fat old porno-time on the side of the road that afternoon.
I had a calming and somewhat celebratory beer in Bredbo and made it into Bombala around lunchtime.
Having examined the accommodation that had been reserved for me in the caravan park, and deciding that there was no real need for me to sleep in a musty tent that had been erected for my sleeping pleasure by a polite and toothless custodian named Dale, I went to seek alternate lodgings.
My brother Whitey lives in Bombala and while I would always find a warm welcome under his roof, my bizarre
comings and goings over the course of the bike show weekend might not dovetail with his young family’s needs. I required a motel room, and once again, my bizarre luck provided me with one.
“We’ve just had a cancellation,” young Viv in the Maneroo Motel informed me and gave the keys to a small, but very clean room. It had all I needed – a hot shower, a small fridge, a working powerpoint and a clean bed. The tent Dale had erected for me had none of those things.
I dropped off my stuff and went to meet the organisers of the Bombala Bike Show at the town’s showground. I could have walked there, since Bombala is not very big, but I rode because it was very hot, and walking is for tramps.
At the venue, I was greeted by Sam, who was one of the local organisers of the show and Terri, the lady who does all the marketing stuff for Australian Motorcyclist magazine.
Sam appeared harried, but in control and very organised, and Terri was concerned with the whereabouts of Thoeming and Woodbury – the Editorin-Chief and Editor of Australian Motorcyclist magazine, which was one of the show’s main sponsors.
“Are they not with you?” she asked.
“Nope.”
“I have texted Peter (Thoeming) several times but there’s been no reply.”
“They could be in jail,” I told her. “They don’t let you take your phones into the cells.”
I’m pretty sure she knew I was joking. Having shared my sense of humour with important people, I went to the pub and found Brother Gromit, Brother False Boris and Brother Partymore (who is a woman).
We bought beers, adjourned to a large wooden table out the back of the Globe Hotel, and proceeded to get drunk.
We seemed to be in good company. There were maybe 20 other motorcycle riders out there all getting drunk too.
Partymore accelerated our damnation by winning the meat raffle, and somehow talking the publican into letting her convert the dead beast-flesh into a beer tab. She is good like that.
Woodbury and Thoeming showed up later in the afternoon, along with a
barrister named Rob, and made a halfhearted effort to get drunk as well, but they stood little chance of catching up. Whitey and Monkey Toe, on the other hand, also wandered in and set to with a will.
Three police in flak vests made regular appearances in the beer garden, and it was probably to see if anyone made any serious attempts at murdering the band. The band had so far murdered Led Zeppelin and the Rolling Stones, so it was a fair bet someone might perform a revenge killing.
Being armed with top-end legal representation (Brother Gromit is also a lawyer), I felt that we should spearhead the assault upon the band. The devil would take the hindmost and rock’n’roll would be all the richer for it.
It was not to be, sadly. Tooheys Old – a noted and eldritch poison – had done for me. I made a flanking sortie upon the guitarist, intending to go all Keith Moon on his axe, and instead found myself out in the street where some local fellows were trying to climb onto the shop awnings across the road. Their efforts were being enjoyed by the police, but apart from some yelling on both sides, it all looked pretty benign.
I had a few words the next day with the local police sergeant and he told me that in the 23 years the Bombala Bike Show had been running, they had never had any trouble of note.
“There’s been a few accos (bike accidents), but that always happens,” he shrugged. “And a few years ago some
bloke from Sydney kicked ten shades of shit out of one of the locals, but a thousand witnesses said the local deserved it.”
That’s a pretty good record, I felt. And probably due in no small part to the fact that the show is not run by bikers. It’s run by a committee of enthusiastic locals. Raises lots of money for the town and for charity and the local police hope it gets bigger and better. Which will probably result in the non-local police swooping in and fucking everything up for everyone, but such is the way of the world. Twenty-three years in, and so far it’s all good.
And it is good, as I saw the next morning.
The showground is a natural amphitheatre. People camp around the fringes of the oval and on the tiers overlooking it, and the show itself takes place in the middle of it all.
It was a good deal cooler this morning, so Bombala felt familiar again and all the locals looked more at ease now that the air temperature was just above freezing. The bike show itself proved to be more eclectic than I thought it might be. There was everything from some top-line custom Harleys to concourse vintage stuff, and everything in between. The oval was full of bikes arrayed in seven categories, which Thoeming and I were meant to judge in the fullness of time. To one side, the Flair trials team had set up its trials show and the riders certainly pulled no punches. I felt a bit sorry for the emcee, who was no doubt more used
3. Boris wasn’t the only one who liked Voodoo Child. These guys were… stunned.
4. “Nah, the screw on the bolt holding on the cruskit snogget should be nickel plated, not chrome!”
to working a less laconic crowd, who largely ignored his imprecations to “Give it up for the guys! The more noise you make, the wilder they get!”
Island Mick, Jonesy, Pete, Ross and the Assassin turned up during the day, erected a tarpaulin, availed themselves of the free firewood and proceeded to get fried Old School style.
Which is pretty much how I absorbed the Bombala Bike Show. It’s Old School in every way. Friendly, well-run, with lots to see, hear and do. Kids are catered for with giant slides and inflatable death balls; adults can drink booze, hear the loudest bike in a killer sound-off, and shop for trinkets, baubles and beads from the gypsies who attend these events. There’s tonnes of good coffee, the food is fresh, hot and well-priced, and it was refreshing to pay five bucks for schooner in a town that wasn’t out to empty your wallet as quickly as possible.
Angry Anderson was the headline act that evening, and by all accounts gave a good account of himself, encouraged as he was by bearded mountain men howling at him to “Shut-up and sing a … song, ya .!” from the terraces.
The next morning, I rode out of Bombala in the rain.
But I was smiling with satisfaction.
SOUTH AUSTRALIA’S LIMESTONE COAST
DOWN AMONG THE STALAGMITES
THEY’RE THE ONES THAT POINT UP, RIGHT?
Kingston SE is famous for Larry the Lobster, who greets you as you enter from the north. Standing 17 metres high to apparently advertise a restaurant, he’s perfect for a photo. I read his history with some amusement; when he was being built, the measurements were
WORDS/PHOTOS MICHAEL WALLEY
supposedly confused between inches and metres, which explains his size. I’m not sure what use a 17 inch crustacean would be, though…
Larry has also become the symbol of the limestone coast. This stretches down the South East of South Australia. It is famous for its seafood and wine industries. As we all know, riding a motorcycle is great for contemplation and getting away from the world and this destination is perfect for that. There are none of the hills or sharply twisting roads that the Eastern states have in abundance. Instead the landscape is what draws you in. It starts at Meningie with the Coorong. The road meanders along the coast with dry salt pans, lagoons, large sand dunes and an inland sea. You follow this for about 60km till you hit Salt Creek, roughly halfway along the Coorong. At this stage you’ll be pulling over to look at a replica of an early oil drilling rig while you clean dead bugs from your visor. Be warned, these bugs will thunk, not ping off your helmet. My wiper was red with blood, not the usual little black spots. The remainder to Kingston is more open with large corridors of trees and scrub with pastures towards the end.
Next after Larry are the servos which have Sundial Park on the right. Stones with numbers are arranged in a half circle around a base with times of the year on them. You stand accordingly, and the time is shown by your shadow. Quite clever, I thought. There are a few wineries spread throughout this area so I stayed overnight and then found a gem the next day.
On the limestone coast road I stopped at Fowler Wines and talked to the owner, Ralph. We started chatting and before I knew it an hour had passed. I was interested in the running of a vineyard for a book I was writing and his knowledge of the industry, production and history of wine was astounding. In 1996 he was named winemaker of the year at the prestigious Adelaide wine show. If you like your wine I highly recommend you stop by and not only try some fine wine but learn about it too.
Kingston has the basics but if you’re looking for a stopover then head to Robe,
another 40km on. Small lakes dot the entry to this town which has been set up for tourism - the main street shows that. There are many places to try the fresh, locally caught seafood, to sample wine from the local vineyards and to soak up the seaside life in general. You can fish from rocks, the beach or the wharf. Want to do something more? How about a fishing charter? I stopped at the local ice cream parlour, walked the main street then headed off to the sea life centre.
Hiding in the back streets, the local aquarium houses large examples of the local marine life. Seeing massive fish within arm’s reach vying to be fed was an experience. I spent 10 minutes just watching the cuttlefish constantly change colour.
I kept heading south after Robe and saw a sign that said Woakwine Cutting, so I pulled over for a look. This is an amazing example where a bloke sees a problem and then gets on with fixing it. A farmer had a swamp on his land and needed a solution. Two blokes, a tractor, 3 years and 276,000 cubic metres of soil later and the drain was in, the ground was dry. In 1957, mind you. At 28 metres deep it looks as if a giant dragged a stick along the ground and carved out a trench.
The next town is Beachport. It is quite small but you’d be mad to miss it. I had breakfast at the local café in front of one of the longest jetties I’ve seen, but the scenic drive is what you’re here for. Follow the signs that take you along the ridge of the coast on a road that rises and falls with many lookouts. It’s short but tight and the views of the waves crashing into the rocks and sand are a great way to break up the journey. I stopped and walked along the rocks for a while, wishing I had a rod to cast. Along this road is the Pool of Siloam, which is 7 times saltier than the ocean. Toilets and a change room are there so if you feel like floating your troubles away the water makes you extremely buoyant.
Millicent is the next major town, and here the landuse changes from pastures to pine forest. Look for the turnoff to the wind farm tourist drive. This
road winds around and underneath one of the largest wind farms in the world, supplying one eighth of South Australia’s normal consumption. The blades span 33 metres and are 100 metres off the ground. I was lucky enough to be there on a windy day and could hear the turbines whirring as the blades sliced through the air. It was another example of man taming the environment. I couldn’t help but stare in amazement.
The land was obviously feeling jealous as I was heading for my stop in Mount Gambier when I spotted the sign for the Tantanoola caves. Situated right on the main road, they are an easy diversion. Apparently a young boy was out looking for rabbits with his ferret when it went down a hole and didn’t come back. After grabbing a candle and going in, he discovered this amazing cave. He showed his dad, and within 2 weeks they were charging people to take a look. Many years later occupational health and safety took its toll resulting in the caves being turned over to the government. Good thing is they made it wheelchair accessible so at least they didn’t get that wrong. It’s not as big as the caves in Naracoorte but it is so stunning that they hire it out for weddings. Well worth a stop.
I spent the next two days in Mount Gambier which has so much around it that I recommend you stop in the information centre on the highway, incorporated in a replica of an old sailing ship. As far as riding goes, Mount Gambier is situated on the slope of an extinct volcano that is only 4,500 years old. I spent over an hour riding around the famous Blue Lake and adjoining craters. The views and landscape were so green it was like being in a mixture of local fauna and a botanical garden. The cave garden in the centre of the city is also worth a look.
I couldn’t tell you which pub to visit as I lost count of how many I saw. I met up with an old friend and after six hours at the pub I staggered to the nearby shop for a curry. Not feeling adventurous I ordered a mild dish and when asked if I wanted it hot must have had a
TRAVEL - SOUTH AUSTRALIA’S LIMESTONE COAST
brain fade and said yes. Needless to say I got through half of it and had a pretty average night’s sleep.
The next morning I sought out a chemist for some relief as my stomach seemed to be filled with acid for some reason, and then headed north for the first time this trip. Massive pine plantations surrounded me on either side as logging trucks made their way back and forth. The town of Nangwarry has a forestry and logging museum which details the history in the local area. I had a deadline to meet so that’s on my to-do list for next time.
After the pine forest is the town of Penola and the start of the Coonawarra wine region. Vast fields of vineyards stretch out either side for a 15 km section that houses almost 30 wineries. Yes, most have cellar doors. Most wine regions have you turning down obscure country roads trying to find them, but these are right there on the main road.
After the previous night’s efforts I had no hesitation in pushing on to Naracoorte as I had a cave tour to try and make. After the vineyards I was back to pastures and it amazed me how much the landscape was changing in such a short time. This stretch saw me hitting top gear
and not dropping down until I had to stop. Normally this would be boring but with the scenery changing so much it was great to sit back and watch. I unloaded into my motel room at Naracoorte, then headed out for the caves. There are different caves and tours to go on but I really wanted to see the fossil cave.
Heading 10km south I came to the cave centre to find that the tour had been booked out. After giving the guide my best devastated look, she squeezed me in. These caves were found by an Irish farmer who was looking for bat poo to fertilise his crops. The caves have been excavated to allow you to walk around in them but you can clearly see the tiny gaps they were squeezing through initially. I would like to express my gratitude to these intrepid explorers for allowing us to experience these amazing caves. After having the lights turned out and told they used to do this by candlelight I would also like to say the border between bravery and insanity must be very thin indeed!
Holes in the ground would drop unsuspecting animals into these caves which sealed over in time, giving us these amazing skeletons of animals that no longer exist. It was a hot day when
I went and the temperature dropped at least 10 degrees within metres of entering. This particular tour took an hour and I was amazed at how far we walked underground which was 20 metres deep at one stage. It would be a bit pricey to visit all the caves but I am definitely coming back to check out the ones I missed.
The next day I headed home to Adelaide along the freeway which, as we know, is to be avoided at all costs but it gave me time to ponder about my journey. As motorcyclists we are very aware that it’s all about the ride and not the destination. I’m so jealous of the Eastern states with the mountains and rainforests that I’ve already told my wife we are retiring over there, but this ride has got me thinking. We are always blind to what’s in our own backyard to the point that we are constantly looking at the horizon dreaming of the unknown. Go and have a think about what you’ve always taken for granted near you but always put off for another time. You might be surprised.
You can see a video of my ride at www.youtube.com/ watch?v=7R5p45LsH4s or search ‘Michael Walley motorcycle’.
MINISTER OF TRANSPORT
PRESS RELEASE BY KEITH BOSLER
Recently it was brought to my attention that there has been some difficulty for motorcyclists with their electronic toll passes. I can assure you, nothing annoys us in the Ministry more than people having problems paying us money. I immediately initiated a round table discussion, in between the degustation courses naturally, we aren’t heathens.
One suggestion was that, given motorcycles do less damage to the roads and environment as well as ease traffic and parking congestion, we should allow them an exemption from road tolls. Boy how we laughed! Why I swear some lobster came out of my dining companion’s nose. Mining magnates can be like that. Normally it’s unintentional.
So, with all the problems in attaching an e-tag to a motorcycle, we decided some sort of wearable thing would be the go. Finally it came to me - underpants! What better than a (saleable) pair of underpants with an in-built e-tag that also offers extra padding in the groin region? It does pay to advertise after all.
So, I had an independent arms-length third-party company, run by my uncle, make a large batch of e-tag undies. These will be mandatorily wearable by all riders. Now don’t worry, they come in the standard briefs and frilly G-string variety, presumably for all you BMW riders out there. Unfortunately somebody left a sock in the pre-wash so they are all pink. Still, nothing like high visibility undies is there!
There is just one small problem. Testing has revealed that given that undies are typically worn under clothing (our current Prime Minister notwithstanding), plus their location on a bike obscuring their line of sight access by toll machines, they don’t actually work.
However, always being at the cutting edge of forward thinking revenue protection, we have decided that these undies can instead be sold as (mandatory) neck warmers. This makes them both effective as an e-tag and avoids us having to make a road toll exemption (for anyone other than politicians that is).
So, e-tag problem solved plus a nice little revenue earner which could potentially be used for more lobster, er, I mean safer roads. Besides, when you get to your destination you’ll have a second pair of stylish pink undies just in case of an accident, like that time I laughed too hard...
1. En route to the Kosi.
2. Horses’doovers.
3. Youngest rider, Rachel from Kiama who admits to being slightly more than 40.
4. Steve Hunter from near Canberra with his carbon fibre Harley.
company’. What more could you ask for! From a low of 24 entrants last year, things picked up with over 70 making the effort to attend this time.
As the rally is conducted by the BMW Club of the ACT, the German brand was in prominence, but there were plenty of others on hand. A standout was Steve Hunters carbon fibre Harley. The F800 variants were there in large numbers as more people wake up to what a great machine these things are.
The raffle prizes included a very generous donation by BMW Australia of a Systems helmet, that and the consolation prizes were all well received by the mob. I even won a coffee mug!
The usual awards saw Largest Club Attendance go to the BMWTCNSW, Longest Distance was a bloke from SA, Youngest Rider was Rachel from Kiama who admits to being slightly over 40. Stan from the BMWTCNSW collected Oldest Combined Age at 108 yrs with his R75/5. Smithy from the Upper Central Coast collected Longest Distance Three Wheeler with 730 km’s.
This is a great rally at a wonderful location, it really should be included in your plan to go to the MotoGP at Phillip Island, which occurs the following weekend. And, bring your younger bike riding friends, Youngest Rider should not be collected by a 40 year old! 3 4
Ipulled into a tiny pub in a flyspeck town to meet up with an old mate whom I’d not seen for a couple of years. It was so hot even the flies had surrendered and I waited alone and in peace at a table out front for him to show.
The only sound was the B-Doubles shifting down then back up as they slowed respectfully past the pub and then wound it back up for the straight out of town.
Then a voice rasped my name from behind me. No car’d pulled up, and I knew my opal scratcher mate lived too far away to’ve walked. But it was him.
“The cops from (Big Brother Town) took the plates off me car,” he explained as he knocked the head off his first schooner, ‘and so I have to hide it behind a shed down the road about half a mile so if they come by they won’t wait for me. And it’s got no lights so either I’ll have to stay the night or get home before it gets fully dark. No moon tonight so the old eyes need a bit of help.’
Needless to say, he ended up bunking in with me and getting out early in the morning before ‘them bastards’ ever come ‘cruising down here.’
We talked into the night, a lot of truths, a bundle of stretched real stories and probably just as many other pure inventions, but all hit nerves: usually laughter but sometimes sad disbelief. Others joined us and everyone had a story, because everyone does.
Because the road doesn’t just lead to towns and to scenery and to pubs: it leads also to people and there’s not a person in any bar in any hotel in any town in any state in any country, who doesn’t have a story, you just need to ask them, just need to be interested. It’s been a good month, a very good month for their stories, so good in fact than rather a Pub of the Month, please listen up for a couple of my Pub Stories of the Month:
SELLING THE UTE:
We were in Roma see and didn’t have two zacs between us. Not for petrol and not for drinking. We could do without the petrol but we couldn’t really do without the drinking so we decided to sell the
old Toyota we were living in for a bit of drinking money.
Now it was a total shitheap so no-one was going to buy it from us but this brilliant idea came to me so I rang up this dealer bloke in the town and told him I was from Longreach or Cloncurry. Some place out west.
I said to him that I was in town for a week or so and was looking for an old Toyota for my young bloke. Didn’t care what state it was in. Told him I didn’t care if there was a bit of rust or if the wipers didn’t really work great… I was describing our Land Cruiser. I told him I had about sixgrand to spend but he told me he didn’t have anything in that range.
See, we were hoping to get about four thou for our rustbucket. Our phones were out of credit so I just told him that I’d ring him back before I headed back out west to see if anything had turned up.
So the next day we head over to his place in the Toyota. Turns out this bloke’s one of the ugliest fellas we’ve ever laid eyes on. Seen better heads hangin’ out of cattle trucks! When we pull in and start talking, you could see his good eye light up! You could see the dollar signs! We told him we were hoping for about four and a half thou. This bloke was probably lucky to sell a car a month and here he was going to turn over a vehicle in a couple of days.
So anyway he starts inspecting the thing and is pretty happy with the tyres. And he liked the engine but the rust was a problem.
And he noticed there were no wipers and then he opens the driver’s door and the back of the seat is tilted forward. Just loose sort of. It was okay when you sat in it but when you got out it just useta flop forward.
Anyhow he looks at me and his whole look changes.
See, I shoulda kept my mouth shut a bit when I called him on the phone. I OVER described the bloody thing…. shoulda just left it at the price and maybe no worrying about a bit of rust. But I’d told him I didn’t mind no wipers and I also bloody told him I didn’t mind if the seat was maybe
broken and flopped forward.
So he twigged but he never let on. But I knew he was onto us.
So he closes the door and tells us he likes it and might have a buyer who’s interested. Well bugger me, now it’s me with dollar signs in me eyes!
He asks us if we’d be happy to take cash and we’re just over the moon, Richo can almost taste a session coming on!
Then he tells us that he knows a bloke who might be interested in it is coming by later in the week so we’re now thinking that we’ve got this baby sewn up.
But he’s onto us so he says, “Leave the thing with me for a couple of days and as soon as this bloke comes by, I’ll get his cheque and give you blokes cash… like on commission sort of!”
We’re rooted! We can’t do that so we tell him we’ll have to think about it coz we really need the money today.
So we pile in and drive out of his yard. We’re shattered. Richo is screaming at me that it’s all my fault and I shouldn’t have gone into so much detail on the phone.
And he’s right. But it’s not all bad news; when the bloke was checking the cabin he found ten bucks in the glovebox so we used that for a couple of coldies at the pub while we waited for another brilliant idea to come to us!
THE SUBARU AND THE KITTEN
So we’ve got this old shitbag Subaru ute parked out the front of the pub as we have this session after the football and eventually the boss reckons we’ve had enough and cuts us off. We’re as full as two race trams but we figure the only other place around where we can get a night cap is the golf club which is a bit out of town and way out of our walking range.
“It was also almost out of the bloody Subaru’s range as well!” chimes in his mate, adding, “Don’t forget the kitten!”
But anyway I decide to drive and Scuggsie here climbs in through the passenger window coz the door didn’t work. Scuggsie wasn’t much smaller then than he is now, so that took a
The Royal at Cooyar is offering free main course meals to pillion riders to a value equal to that ordered by their pilot for the month of March. You don’t need to be staying, just turn up on the back of a bike and tuck in! T: 07 4692 6185 (Karryn)
The Union at Tumbarumba has joined the Stockman at Texas in offering riders who stay overnight a free schooner on arrival. T: 02 6948 2013 (Amanda or David)
The Eskdale Hotel south of Tallangatta is under new management and is now very rider friendly. Well worth a visit. T: 02 6072 0404 (Noel of Jodie)
And some not so good: Matt and Tracey at the fantastic Little River Inn at Ensay in Victoria have been forced to put their pub on the market due to a serious health issue. We wish them the very best. They don’t want any fuss made but if you are down that neck of the woods, drop in and see them, or plan to stay there!
bit of work… anyway, we pull out and take the next left and I know that about half a mile down the road starts to go up this hill and the Subaru doesn’t like hills so I need to take a decent run at it.
I’m just beginning to gun the bomb for the hill when I see that Billy, the local cop sergeant is right on our arse in his paddy wagon but this is before RBT so I figure that I just need to keep it straight and Billy’ll leave us alone. As we hit the bottom of the hill there’s an almighty crash and the bonnet of the Subaru flies off, over the car and smashes into Billy’s windscreen.
I think, shit, I’d better pull over. So I get out, Scuggsie climbs out the window and we saunter back to check Billy’s okay. Trying to act all sober like.
This was also before laminated windscreens so Billy’s just got a great hole where the glass used to be and a pile of what looks like ice all over his passenger seat.
Sorry, Billy, I say, are you okay? Billy’s good, just a couple of tiny cuts. He gets out of the paddy wagon and we’re all trying to get our bonnet out of his windscreen. Anyway we get it out eventually and he says,“I can guess where you blokes’ve been but why the
hell are you on this road? You’ve just passed your place (to me). And it ain’t the way to your place either, Scuggsie! I’m thinkin’ that honesty’s the best policy with Billy so I tell him that Thommo’s cut us off at the pub and we’re headed to the golf club for a coupla night caps.
He looks at both of us and says, “That’s great news, I’m on the committee of the golfie and our finances are screwed. We need every penny we can get so spend up! And leave a good tip!”
He helps us gaffer tape the dinged up bonnet back onto the Soubbie but the thing won’t go up the hill without the run up so we leave it there and walk the rest of the way to the golfie.
By 3.00am everyone else’s gone except us, Steve the barman and this little kitten that Scuggie’s adopted and Steve tells us it’s not worth his time to stay open for just two. I tell him I’ll buy the kitten a rum so that’d make it three but he still kicks us out.
We walk back downhill to the Soubbie ute and we’re too messed up to drive so we pile onto the tray and pass out. Scuggie’s got the kitten on his chest, purrin’ like a beauty!
I can put up with the purring, but at some stage during the night his snoring starts to seriously piss me off so I dig him in the ribs and it stops and I get a bit of sleep.
Turns out the ute was facing west so the morning sun hits our faces real early and wakes me so I get out, have a pee against the back wheel and leave Scuggsie comatose, jump in the cabin, freewheel backwards down the hill, turn it around and drive home.
When we get there I go round to the hose at the shed, turn it on and spray Scuggies all over the back with freezing water. He turns round, jumps up and abuses the shit out of me.
Then we both look down and see the dead kitten inside his jacket that he’s suffocated when I punched him to roll over when he was snoring.
We gave it a decent burial, poor thing.
But I never drove that Soubbie much after that, totally clagged. I think it’s still rusting down the bottom of the yard somewhere.
Epic night.
Thanks to my HR dept for the motivation and inspiration for this column each month. You never leave my helmet.
OPTION ZERO
SOFTLY, SOFTLY… IT’S THE LAW!
Usually,
if we use press releases at all, we rewrite them. Usually. Sometimes, however, they are really pretty good – and this one from Zero Motorcycles was good enough to run with only a few minor changes.
‘For an officer of the law, motorcycles have distinct advantages over the patrol car. They accelerate faster than anything with four wheels and can slip through traffic. They’re fuel efficient. But they’re also loud, and that can be problematic when sneaking up on perps.
‘If you’re a motorcycle cop with the L.A.P.D., time to celebrate. As a pilot project, the force has bought a Zero
1. Better watch out, perps. This bloke looks quite tough enough without his Zero…
2. Err, officer, are you sure that smokies come under the heading of ‘community relations’?
MMX electric motorcycle, that offers those advantages with the addition of stealth.
‘“Most importantly, our officers have an added tactical advantage while on patrol,” says Officer Steve Carbajal of the L.A.P.D. Off-Road Unit. For now, Zero says that the LAPD “purchased one MMX as a pilot program,” for use on and off-road. If it goes well, they will order more.
‘Los Angeles taxpayers can be glad that the bikes can be charged for less than $.50 and maintenance is largely limited to the occasional tire inflation. Oh, and with no emissions, they can go indoors to chase a suspect through a hallway.
‘Zero has been supplying police departments around the country with motorcycles since 2011, starting in Northern California. These bikes are like their civilian counterparts, but outfitted with lights, sirens, medical gear, and hard storage containers.
‘The MMX is Zero’s special forcesspecific bike. It can ford through water up to 3.2 feet deep, put out 68 poundfeet of torque, go from zero to 60 in 4.4 seconds, and hit a top speed of 85 mph. Equipped with the largest available battery pack, it bike will run for two hours.
‘We’re sorry to report the police-spec MMX is not for sale to civilians.’
The BEST of the WEST with A MM Editor Peter “The BEAR” Thoeming
G uided USA Tour • 15 - 30 August , 2015
We’ve lined up some of our favorite places, thrown in some ideas (and surprises!) from Peter “The Bear” Thoeming, Editor of Australian Motorcyclist and together we’ve created a once-in-a-lifetime riding experience that’s tough to beatanywhere on earth - and you’re invited to join us!
Our adventure starts and ends in Los Angeles and includes Grand Canyon, Capitol Reef, Bryce Canyon, Zion, Death Valley, Yosemite, Kings Canyon and Sequoia National Parks
You’ll see the lowest AND the highest elevations in the US –282’ (86m) below sea level in Death Valley to 14,505' (4,421·m) at Mt Whitney Plus Monument Valley, Las Vegas, Route 66, the Pacific Coast and more.
Fourteen days of riding and memories to last a lifetime!
Reser ve by 15 June, 20 bikes maximum
Overview Map
Daily Itinerar y
Mention “The Bear” on your reser vation for m and save $300 per motorcyle
Full Details and Pr icing at http://gamct com/bestofthewest html
After studying for a career in Economics, Peter found his way into Jazz and then Graphic Design While an Ar t Director at CBS Australia, he decided to make a change, r iding a small motorcycle around the wor ld and wr iting a book about his adventure On his retur n, Peter became editor of Two Wheels magazine and star ted Bike Australia and Australian Road Rider before founding Australian Motorcyclist magazine
He loves tour ing Amer ica, especially the west and the south, ever since spending six weeks cr iss-crossing it back in the ‘80s and on more visits since
The Bear enjoys Amer ican food - especially the beerwhich be believes has improved out of sight since that first tr ip!
Skip’s love of travel star ted at an ear ly age on camping road tr ips with his family in the 1960’s and 70’s After repeating some of the same adventures by car with his own family he discovered motorcycling later in life
Since 2002 he has been the owner/operator of Great Amer ican Tour ing Group, Ltd , leading guided tours for groups large and small, planning self-guided tours and continuing exploration for future jour neys on two wheels or more His “fun” is to show r iders the famous attractions they expect, plus the hidden places they’d be unlikely to discover on their own
Skip has also been self-employed for many years in commercial photography, video production and mar keting communications
8Sun, 23 Aug
Peter “the Bear” Thoeming
Steven “Skip” Schippers
AND LEARN SOMETHING, TOO
We’re currently offering two rides with Australian MOTORCYCLIST staff members or contributors.
SNAPPING IN QUEENSLAND
One is very close, but there may still be a chance to get along. It’s our first PPPP ride; the Ps stand for, in no particular order: Pies, Pubs, Pics and (road)Porn and the rides will feature three days of riding great roads, scouring the country for the best Pies, stopping at proven Motorcycle Friendly Pubs, learning how to take great night Pics and shots of Road Porn.
The ride will be led by Colin Whelan from March 27th to 29th and will begin with lunch at Piefection at Mt Gravatt on the Friday, followed by visits (in the name of research!!) to Muzza’s Pies at Coopooroo, and the bakeries at Samford and Dayboro before a stop at the Woodford Pub and finally the first of two nights at the Cooyar Hotel.
On Saturday morning we’ll breakfast up at the fabulous Blackbutt Pie Shop, followed by a photography lesson and then a ride through the Bunya Mountains to lunch at the Quinalow Pub.
On Saturday night we’ll be out photographing the Milky Way and star trails (clouds permitting)
You’ll learn how to get terrific road shots, and more, on the PPPP tour.
COME RIDE WITH US
Sunday’ll see us having breakfast at the Yarraman Pie shop after a photography debrief before sampling more pies at three more bakeries as we ride back to Brisbane via Crows Nest, Esk and Ferndale.
This is a test run so it’s a freebee but numbers are strictly limited to 20. To register your interest and get more details, please email: colin@ motorbikenation.com
TRIPPING IN THE USA
A little further away, both in time and space, is The Bear’s Best of the West tour. If you’ve been reading my stories, you have probably realised how much I enjoy touring the western United States. Now I can show you why, in person. By way of a 16 day tour with 14 riding days from LA to LA along some of the American West’s most spectacular roads. Milestones along the way include well-known attractions like a stretch of Route 66, the Grand Canyon, Monument and Death Valleys and national parks like Yosemite, Kings Canyon, Zion and Sequoia. All linked by superb roads in weather that should be wonderful –although I obviously can’t guarantee that.
Cost is very reasonable, ranging from
$5,995 per person for two people sharing one bike and one room to $7,195 per person and a bike, sharing a room with someone else and $8,995 per person with a bike and a single room. Cost of air fares is not included, and all costs are quoted in US dollars. Get some now!
Price includes Harley-Davidson rental; you get a first and second choice of model. Specific BMW and Honda models may be available at an additional cost of $40 per day. Mention my name when you book and you’ll get a discount of $300 per motorcycle.
The tour starts on the 15th of August and ends on the 30th. Absolute deadline for booking is the 15th of June, but I would obviously suggest you get in before that; the maximum number of participants is 20. Members of the Bear Army are especially welcome, and will have the opportunity to share a pre-tour special evening with the grumpy old bugger – hey, who’s writing this?! – on the evening of the 14th at his favourite Tex-Mex restaurant, the Baja Cantina. For more information and bookings, please email Skip at skip@gamct. com, and copy me in at thebear@ ausmotorcyclist.com.au .
Do it now, or forever regret that you missed out!
Scenery like this is only the beginning on The Bear’s Best of the West tour.
PLUGGED, RACKED, SHOWN AND SHOCKED
SOUNDS
WEIRD, DOESN’T IT?
YAMAHA MT-07 FRAME PLUGS
Yamaha really has thought of everything when making the MT07 look amazing. This month we fitted the Gilles Tooling frame plugs to cover up those holes in the frame that look a little “bare” to create a cleaner look. The colour we chose is titanium to match a number of other accessories we’ll be fitting. There are four plugs – two each side for the frame tube and the pivot of the swingarm. A matter of a few minutes was all it took to fit them and wow, what a super-dooper look! Priced at $98.75 per set, they are well worth the money. We’ve only just clocked up the 1000km
Harley-Davidson
JUST SHOCKING: IKON SHOCK ABSORBERS
Price - $594 plus postage in Australia
Every motorcycle embodies a set of compromises. The reason is simple: all bikes (like pretty much everything) are built to a price point. Within the cost limitations this creates, manufacturers will spend more on the things they think will help to sell the bike, than on the things they think most people won’t notice. These are necessary compromises if the cost is to be kept down.
mark this month, so the first service is being planned. Next month we’re fitting the wonderful Venhill braided brake lines. SW
SUZUKI DL650 V-STROM ANDY STRAPZ PANNIER FRAMES AND EXPEDITION PANNIERZ
Simple, easy, reliable and good looking, that’s Andy “Strapz” for you. No, no. It’s what our mate Andy has made available to all Suzuki V-Strom 650 owners with his pannier frame kit. Priced at $370 for the pair, they took all of ten minutes to fit (in fact I think it
took longer to unwrap them than to fit them!). The frames are not designed to carry the weight of a pair of panniers, just to keep them safely away from the wheel and the exhaust, which means that they are intended for use with soft
It is not surprising that shock absorbers are near the head of the list of manufacturers’ compromises. Depending on the model, a lot of buyers will not explore the limits of their bike’s suspension, so they don’t need particularly good shocks. The other owners, who do, are generally expected to upgrade their suspension at their own cost. It’s an interesting exercise to factor this in when you buy your next bike – consider whether you will want to upgrade shocks, possibly fork springs and quite often the exhaust system. Then add the cost to the price of the bike for a… well, a shock!
Anyway, we decided to upgrade the Sporty’s rear suspension as one of the very first things. The suspension travel is so short that
any help in that department would obviously be much appreciated. We wanted shocks which would improve the ride and offer some adjustability, but we didn’t want to pay the earth. The choice was simple: we decided on Ikons from Proven Products.
You may not realise that Ikon shock absorbers are made in Australia; they come from Albury in the south of NSW. Proven Products was an importer in 2000 when Koni decided to close down its production of motorcycle shock absorbers.
The companies signed a licensing agreement which allowed Proven to manufacture shocks under the name of Ikon, and it now supplies the whole world. The Albury factory has R&D facilities and offers customising services as well.
Our Ikons look very much like the shocks they have replaced, but they work significantly better. We kept the same length, so we didn’t change the geometry of the bike. With the preload set for my lithe weight (compared to Stuart, anyway) and a bit of fiddling with damping we have a noticeably different bike. The suspension is now more progressive, and despite that the bike is considerably less likely to bottom out. It was definitely worth making the change. Add the stylish and shape-fitting Mustang seat and I have a much more comfortable 72. PT
luggage. The weight with soft panniers is carried by the straps(z?) across the seat.
To give the frames a fair trial, we matched them with Andy’s Expedition Pannierz, priced at $345. These roll-top bags are made from heavy and almost indestructible-looking material, are waterproof and hold a heap of gear. Fitting them is easy – join the hookand-loop straps over or under the seat and then thread the small strap at the base of each bag through the loops on the frame. The result is bags that sit securely on the back of the bike and do not flap or move about.
I took Andy’s handiwork for a two-day blast through the countryside west of the Sandstone Curtain on our long term Wee Strom, and could not have asked for better or easier to use luggage. And space was not a problem - I fitted all my camping gear including a stove plus clothing and so on into the bags. The only other luggage I used was the tank bag, for fiddly bits, and a camera case. For cameras.
Now I have a theory, based on considerable experience, that anyone tackling serious gravel or dirt should
YAMAHA
BOLT OUTFIT SHOWTIME!
InSydney recently, the Autorush show was held at The Dome, Homebush. Mainly a car customisers heaven, Autorush also featured a number of fine custom motorcycles on display. This included our award winning Yamaha Bolt outfit, which stole the show with huge amounts of onlookers.
fit soft bags because chances are that you will fall off. If hard bags break off in a fall they’re much more difficult to refit than soft ones. Admittedly that isn’t always true; in a recent crash of mine, a car tore the pannier right off the side of my bike and cracked the plastic material practically all the way through. Despite that, it fitted straight back on. I suspect that would not be true with the popular and more rigid aluminium cases. Anyway, it’s easiest with soft bags.
I’m happy to highly recommend this combination from Andy Strapz, which also probably costs about half of what you’d pay for OEM luggage. PT
We had the Bolt on the 2SUS Custom Resprays stand (who painted our Bolt) and it was mixed in with a number of Harleys and all sorts of wild looking cars. Not long after that, The Bear took the outfit to the Australia Day CARnival as part of the NSW Motorcycle Council
display. Organised by the Premier’s Department (thank you), this took place in drizzling rain but still managed to impress the damp crowd with its selection of bikes and cars. The Bolt’s paint shone even in the rain!
Where will we be showing the Bolt, Next? Watch this space… SW
Photo by Hood Imagery.
Welcome to a new section of Australian MOTORCYCLIST, highlighting some of the products and services that are sure to interest you. Manufacturers and distributors: if you have something that you think may interest our readers, just send in a photo and a few words – it’s a free service.
CRUSH ’EM!
Crusher Maverick 2-into-2 Full Systems for H-D
Price - US $579.99-$599.99
Do these look cool or what? Experience solid horsepower and torque gains along with a unique, throaty exhaust note at wide-open throttle with lower decibel
levels at cruising speeds on your Harley-Davidson motorcycle. Available for 2006-15 Dynas (except 12-15 FLD & 14-15 FXDL), 1986-15 Softails (except FXCW/C, FXSB & FXSBSE), and 2004-15 Sportster XL models. Available in Chrome or Black Ceramic finishes. Contact Rollies Speed Shop – see www.rolliesspeedshop.com or Ph: 07 3252 5381
SMALL AND HANDY
Gimbal Ratchet
Price - $29.50
Don’t want to lug a big ratchet on your bike, or need to get into a tight spot? The Gimbal ratchet is the answer. Available in both 3/8 and 1/4 inch drives, the Gimbal Ratchet is built with a 72-tooth ratcheting mechanism,
a five-degree swing arc and allows you to spin fasteners on and off in hard-toreach areas. This will make life a whole lot easier and faster for those working inch
MOTORCYCLE INSURANCE SPECIALISTS
Insuring motorcycles for over 25 years Quality product service and competitive prices
• Flexible Riding Gear coveronly pay for what you need.
• Expanded capacity to insure higher value and custom-built motorcycles, trikes, scooters & all types of motorbikes sold in Australia.
• Pay yearly, half-yearly or by the month - itʼs your choice.
• Motorcycles/Trikes used for Tour Operating.
• Tour Operatorʼs Public Liability underwritten through CGU.
where it’s difficult to use a standard ratchet – just like many spots on a motorcycle! Grab one through Masters, Total Tools, Mitre10 and other leading hardware and tool stores, or to find your nearest retailer head to www.gearwrench.com
NOT JUST A NEW LABEL
Ipone rejuvenates product line
After Ipone’s launch just 2 years ago into the Australian market, the brand has cemented its worldwide position as a market leading, high quality motorcycle oil company at a local level.
Ipone’s product innovation and subsequent packaging facelift once again raises the bar in the motorcycle oil
industry. New formula oil in the Katana road and offroad products (100% Synthetic with advanced esters focused on faster, smoother shifting) and R4000 synthetic plus with ester (Semi-Synthetic ester-based lubricant focused on engine protection), fall in line with the recently established Racing range. New packaging allows customers to quickly and easily find the right oil for their application with labelling that clearly shows key factors, all on the front of the bottle making it a quick and easy task to find the right oil. Ipone’s new products are available in store right now. To find your nearest Ipone dealer, visit www.ficeda.com.au
MAKING LIFE EASY
Throttle. Basically a manual type “cruise control” that allows you to use the throttle with your foot – and letting you relax your right wrist for more comfort and control. Visit the website –www.reidenindustries.com.au or call 0430 229 984. You can also see a video of the Foot Throttle in action - http:// youtu.be/0TI4B4SsT6o
NEW LIDS FROM ARAI
Reiden Industries - Foot Throttle There’s nothing worse than getting sore wrists while covering long distance on your bike. This is where Reiden Industries comes in with the Foot
Vector 2 - Spencer and Corsair V - Edwards
Be sure to get in quick to secure your Arai Vector 2 Freddie Spencer replica helmet, or the Corsair V Colin Edwards Tribute helmet. Both have top level
Shoei Neotec and Hornet available
Jetboil
Bahco tools
Shoei Neotec and Hornet available
features and comfort. Available from your local bike shop, or visit www. cassons.com.au
GET THE LOOK
Dainese Racing D1Pelle ladies jacket
Price - $799.95
Ladies, stand out from everyone else in the super sexy looking Dainese Racing D1 Pelle leather jacket. This jacket is made entirely from Tutu cowhide and features bi-axial elasticated S1 inserts. The shoulders are co-injected with aluminium inserts that improve active safety and add greatly to the character.
Comfort and ergonomics are provided by Microelastic inserts placed at strategic points where greater freedom of movement is required when riding. Air vents at the chest, a Nanofeel lining and 3D bubble fabric provide this jacket with excellent air flow characteristics and internal body temperature control. Two sexy colour
combos are available - Black/White/ Anthracite or Black/Anthracite/Pink. Visit your local bike shop or www.cassons.com.au
COMFORT ON THE STREET
Mustang Seats – H-D Street 500
As you read this, the Harley-Davidson Street 500 should be hitting the showroom floor. If you want a super
comfy ride, Mustang Seats already have the popular Fastback style seat and a touring version for the Street 500. Mustang has pulled out all the stops for the Fastback seatcontrasting stitching, reinforced welting and basket weave inserts are among the styling updates made specifically to
TOUGHEN UP YOUR RIDE
Rider training courses
‘Getting to know your bike’ courses
• Hand and lever protection for your street bike
• Single or two point mount handguards
• Choose your style from Carbon, VPS or Storm
Group rides (e.g. Uluru, Isle of Man 2016)
Thismonth we head to Eastern Victoria to explore some wonderful countryside around Omeo. Some of these dirt roads can be challenging (depending on the time of year), so make sure your skills are up to it and that you check the road conditions before setting off.
OMEO
Originally a pastoral area, the discovery of gold in 1851 saw the town boom, however things ultimately declined as the gold ran out, and cattle and sheep grazing took over as the town’s major industry. Remnants of the town’s goldmining history can be found at the Oriental Claims Historic Area, located a few kilometres west of Omeo. All major services are available in Omeo, so make this your “base camp”.
VICTORIA FALLS
Located on the banks of the Victoria River, Victoria Falls is just a few
minutes from the town of Cobungra. Victoria Falls offers all the benefits of a camping ground on the banks of a river, including swimming and fishing –great for a quick stop to enjoy a refreshing dip.
ANGLERS REST
The name Anglers Rest is descriptive, indicating that the location is a good spot for anglers, being close to the confluence of several noted trout fishing rivers. If you’ve got a line, throw it in and try your luck. The Blue Duck is a favourite pub.
HINNOMUNJIE/ HINNOMUNJIE BRIDGE
There is a camp ground at Hinnomunjie but the main attraction is the bridge. It is one of only a handful of historic timber truss bridges in the state. It was built using hand-cut wood around 1910, and still looks pretty good for its age.
SUNNYSIDE
Just a name now, so keep on riding! You probably won’t even know you’ve passed the “location” of the town that once was.
WOMBAT PO HUT
The hut is an old corrugated shed, definitely worth a stop and a couple of happy snaps. You can also camp, fish and as the name suggests, there are a large number of wombats around the area.
BENAMBRA
In line with most small country towns, Benambra has been in gradual decline over recent years. The town itself has always been relatively small in terms of facilities, in line with its population and the relatively short distance and easy access to nearby Omeo. However there is a traditional country pub and a general store if you forgot something at your “base”.
STICKIER THAN AN OCTOPUS
ROCKY CREEK STRAPS
Price $10, $12, $25
Have you been after a strap that is strong, flexible and designed with your paintwork in mind? Well the latest “Spider Web, Adjust-a-strap and Loop End Cord” straps from Rocky Creek Designs are just your ticket to strapping, tying and carrying just about anything on your motorcycle – they even stretch up to two times their length!
I took the Spider Web (retailing for just $25) and gave it a run, while The Bear strapped himself, um, equipped himself with the other two. Basically the Spider Web is four strong bungee cords with standard nylon type hooks at one end and gated clips at the other, attached to a central ring. Each cord is about 45cm in length and I
have tied all sorts of bags, parcels and boxes to a number of bikes now and love how versatile the Spider Web is, even being able to use two of the cords, or three, depending on what my needs are.
The bungee cord is made from a special polyurethane formula that has no rubber or latex, yet feels like it does. They are claimed not to spilt, crack, break or become brittle and are backed up with a lifetime warranty.
The Adjust-a-strap retails for just $12 and is so useful with its many uses. 92cm in length, it can be adjusted easily by hooking through one of the six holes in the strap, so you can be sure, no matter what it is you want to strap to the bike, it will be strapped securely. Again, made from the special formula and backed up with a lifetime warranty, you can get this strap in yellow or blue.
The Loop End Cord is another very
versatile strap to have in your arsenal. Retailing for only $10, it is 77cm in length and can be tied to almost anything on your bike. Again, this strap is made from the special formula and comes with a lifetime warranty.
For all of these straps and many more wondrous products, contact Rocky Creek Designs on Ph: 02 6689 5703 and/or visit the website www. rockycreekdesigns.com.au SW
READY FOR BATTLE AEROSTICH COMBAT LITE BOOTS
Price US$347
One of the things I love about Andy Goldfine’s Duluth-based motorcycle clothing and accessory supplier Aerostich is that they make the stuff they sell, and they make it in America. It might seem odd that I should mention this here because I am about to review a product that’s marketed by Aerostich but not made by them. The Combat boots are made by well-known boot manufacturer Sidi, in Italy, for Aerostich. Presumably because this is a job that’s just too specialised for what is essentially a clothing manufacturer like Aerostich to handle.
Good for them. There is no harm in knowing your limits. And it’s good to know that the boots are not made in some low-cost country just to save money.
Another thing I love about Aerostich is the way Andy describes things. “Difficult break in?” he writes, about these boots. “Yeah, yeah, yeah. Ok, ok ok. This is a simple consequence of having a stitched welt and thick water resistant PU
(polyurethane) impregnated leather... and so few separate pieces of leather. There are no flex gussets of thin pleated leather or fau-leather [sic] anywhere. So uh, respectfully, suck it up, cupcake. I hate breaking in a new pair for myself, too.”
You can read a lot more of Andy’s comments, and fine technical details, on the Aerostich website. Meanwhile, how did I like the boots?
They are rather old-fashioned, with a combination of laces, hook-and-loop patches and buckles. A kind of combination of dirt and road boots, they are quite heavy with a stiff sole. Is that bad? Well, here’s Andy again:
“We wanted an old-fashioned full leather lining, because these are soft, comfortable and durable. This is incompatible with the Gore-Tex (and other) boot and shoe insert waterproofing techniques. All use a thin membrane, separate from the boot, inserted between some kind of fabric inner lining and the outer boot. Companies producing breathable/ waterproof inserts feel they don’t work well sandwiched between leather linings and outer boots. To us, leather linings feel much better than fabric
linings, and they last a lot longer, too. Our priorities are foot comfort, durability and breathability.”
There is a lot more explanation on the website, but I’d better cut to the chase.
The boots, after a reasonably short period of breaking them in, fit exceptionally well. That’s due at least partly to the laces, which give you the opportunity to tighten the fit. The good folks at Aerostich included a couple of sets of insoles in case I needed to fine-tune the fit, but it was fine as it was. Apparently the soles are sized according to a “European last”, which means they fit feet like mine!
Because they are tough, I expect them to last a very long time – so it’s just as well they fit. I’ve done a couple of long-ish rides with them now, one in hot and one in cold, wet conditions. They were a bit hot when I was riding in 38 degrees, but I’d expect any boots to feel like that except for BMW’s vented ones. In the cold they were just right, and a good coating of Dubbin seems to have sealed any sewing holes so they didn’t leak.
I’ll report more later, but for now the Combat Lite boots get a thumbs up. PT
THERE’S OIL IN THEM THAR FORKS
MOTOR SHOWS CAN BE FUN…
WORDS LESTER MORRIS
As I pointed out in an earlier piece, my introduction to Sydney’s Motor Show, which has nearly always featured a long list of motorcycles as well as passenger cars and light commercial vehicles, was on Day One in 1954, the event a very popular one which thoroughly established its place in history. Sadly it is no longer as successful as it was, but there will
always be a place for it. It may well continue as long as motor vehicles abound. As it happens, I attended the Matchless stand at the 1954 Show for just one day, but that was more than enough!
As I noted, I was working for A. P. North at the time, the NSW importers and distributors of Matchless and Francis-Barnett motorcycles and -
thankfully for a very short period - the frightful three-wheeled Messerschmitt ( which I nick-named the Mess-o-schitt) cabin-scooter.
Their stand gloried in the range of 350 and 500cc Matchless singles, the 500cc ohv vertical twin, which enjoyed one of the most beautiful-looking engines ever fitted to an English motorcycle, and a couple of Competition 500 singles, with
their tiny petrol tanks and huge alloy heads and barrels. All these models employed swing-arm rear suspension to augment the telescopic forks on the front, that type of rear suspension by no means a standard fitment in those days, although it was becoming much more so.
Prominently on display were two of the rare - and today rarer still - G45 racing versions of the 500cc ohv twins, beautiful-looking all-black machines with fat alloy heads and barrels and even fatter fuel and oil tanks. The bikes were imported to be ridden by Keith Stewart and Keith Conley, both of whom were later to enjoy some success with these machines.
The showpiece was a 500cc G80S single mounted upon a large packing crate, which featured a pair of big wooden `cams’ which were driven by an electric motor via belts and pulleys. The wooden cams were intended to push the bike’s wheels up and down at odd times to happily demonstrate the unquestioned superiority of the Matchless suspension system.
Of that, more anon!
After the disaster of Day One with that awful AJS, and which I felt at the time might have seen my instant dismissal from the company, I was very surprised to have been asked to be on the stand on the Second Day, a chore I shared with no less a personage than Perce North himself, which, I was assured by those who should know better, was something of a signal honour.
On Day Two my mount was a far more acceptable machine than that dangerous AJS, for it was a near-new 500cc Matchless G80S single, the machine which had just finished second - behind a 500cc Matchless twin, it should be noted - in the inaugural 1954‘RoundAustralia’ Redex Trial for motorcycles.
The bike I rode was still well-muddied and shod with thick, knobbly tyres; great for loose or muddy surfaces but hopeless on sealed roads, and even worse on Sydney’s slick tramlines. Why this bike was not featured as part of the AP North display only Perce himself could answer, and for some reason I didn’t think to ask him. As it happens we were very busy with other things!
“TURN IT OFF, TURN IT OFF!” I DEMANDED. PERCE QUICKLY OBLIGED AS ANOTHER SHOT OF LUBRICANT PELTED ITSELF WITH GREAT ENTHUSIASM OVER THE SUEDECOVERED SINGLE RACE-SEAT OF THE STEWART G45
I had never ridden a bike fitted with these heavily-studded, off-road tyres before but I jumped on the bike and rode it very briskly up Campbell Street to the very busy Taylor Square intersection with little drama, except for the odd twitch or two over the tramlines which were there at the time. The bike was very well sprung, comfortable in the extreme, and handled outstandingly well, in spite of the chunky off-road tyres.
It was a very different story at the busy Taylor Square intersection!
In those days, the tramlines in that area which led to the Showground curved gently to the right at the top of the hill, which made it difficult to cross them at anything like the ideal ninety-degrees, and this was the direction in which I was headed. They also crossed several other sets of tramlines which went straight on or curved in the opposite direction - a bit like the old St. Kilda intersection in Melbourne although, thankfully, not quite as bad.
Knobby tyres were never meant to cross highly polished steel tramlines at all, much less at a nigh-parallel angle, a fact demonstrated to me (and a small army of casual bystanders), when the rear-end of the bike suddenly swung into a full-lock broadside when the bike was stupidly cranked over almost onto the right footrest.
Instinctively, I dabbed the sole of a highly-polished wall-toed brogue to the ground in an attempt to correct the errant machine, to be rewarded for my pains by a tearing sound, which could have been a newly-popped hernia but which was, thankfully, merely the centre seam of my newly-acquired suit trousers
opening obscenely and displaying my brand-new knickers for the world to sneer at. I was, after all, representing the company at the Show, so was very smartly dressed in a fetching dark grey suit of clothes I had recently purchased and I hadn’t bothered wearing specialised protective clothing; besides which, I didn’t have any to speak of in the first place!
In those far-off days you could buy matching nylon knickers, socks, tie and suit-pocket hankie in the most bizarre fluorescent colours, from lime green, through canary yellow, sky blue and nipple pink to a more subdued burgundy.
Mine were, of course, glow-in-thedark lime green, which the whole world could have seen had I bent over on the moon, trouser-less, and grinning over my shoulder, the wide split which gaped in my new strides going all the way from the base of the trouser flies to the rear waistband. Had that happened, it may well have been the first example of ‘mooning’ to be witnessed anywhere, while the sudden, unexpected cold draught which was suddenly manifest was worth a fortnight of cold showers.
The bike corrected itself, as many had before, and some have done since, so we continued to the Sydney Showground without further incident, me throbbing with embarrassment the bike throbbing along as all 500 singles were wont to do.
I flashed my pass - pass! - at the guy on the gate and tried desperately to find a quiet place to dismount, but when I did so some fool laughed out loud and a few others were seen giggling into their hands and pointing the finger of scorn at the gleaming, lime-green crescent which was seen to suddenly adorn the crotch of my new suit’s trousers.
Holding my too-short coat down at the back, I sidled, crab-like and almost on the tips of my toes, to the AP North stand and borrowed a Sellotape dispenser which I took to the toilet to make some repairs. It wasn’t too successful, but it was better than nothing!
Perce was talking to someone when I returned to the stand and I was horrified to see that the display’s showpiece was not working nearly as well as it should have been. In fact, it was a bloody disaster.
Far from demonstrating the Matchless’ smooth-running - and very comfortable - front suspension, the wooden cams were moaning loudly as they turned, the whole bike shuddering and rocking about violently on its centre-stand. The rear suspension was working perfectly, the front forks were not!
“Hey, look at this!” I shouted to Perce and the world at large as I found the power-point and turned the device off.
The wooden lumps sighed with relief and ground silently to a halt, a wisp of smoke curling up from the small electric motor which by now was glowing in a soft pink and from which the subtle whiff of burning rubber made its presence known.
“What the hell’s wrong with this thing?” Perce demanded of me.
“I dunno,” I said. “I’ve only just arrived. Let’s have a look at it!”
The bike on display was a brand-new 500 single, and I felt that the fork legs might not have been correctly oiled, so I scrounged around to the BSA stand, borrowed a small screwdriver and removed the small drain plug at the base of the lower fork tube.
Nothing happened! Not a drop of oil emerged, which seemed to confirm my suspicion that there was no oil in the fork leg. Let’s not mention that I forgot the air-lock which existed because the top filler-plug was still in place!
“Turn the motor on again,” I commanded, “We’ll see if that has made any difference.”
Perce was nothing if not obedient, so he flicked the switch on again and the `cams’ swung into action with renewed vigour, allowing the front forks to sigh as they reached the bottom of their stroke.
As the forks were forced upwards again they emitted a deep, asthmatic groan, then an horrific flatulent sound, which was immediately accompanied by the gastric emission of a cupful of oil, which squirted with great enthusiasm onto the front of my brand-new suit coat. This was followed a second later by a giant belch as the forks readied themselves to repeat the performance on the downward stroke.
I swung aside and ducked under the next onslaught, noting, in that fraction of a second, that the forks were by now performing almost perfectly, and that the cold draught had suddenly re-asserted itself.
“Turn it off, turn it off!” I demanded. Perce quickly obliged as another shot of lubricant pelted itself with great enthusiasm over the suede-covered single race-seat of the Stewart G45.
“I’ll pay the dry cleaning bill,” Perce said, almost matter-of-factly, “and – er - the repairs.”
“Repairs?” He nodded, looking down at the remains of my suit trousers. In those days, the flies in men’s trousers were still buttoned, and the clutch lever on the G45 Matchless had neatly flipped the flies open as it dug in when I ducked away from the spray of oil. This meant that the hastily-repaired tear in the seam of the pants appeared to be gaping even more obscenely than before, accompanied by the equally-obscene gaping at the front as well.
For some reason, the small crowd which had quickly gathered - amazing how that happens, isn’t it? - was highly amused by the proceedings and rent the air with loud guffaws, spontaneous applause and a short series of ironic cheers.
We searched the single drawer in a small desk on the stand and found a couple of paper clips, a large ball of fluff, a chunk of an unknown brown substance which was pliable and extremely heavy and - of all things - a
pair of long, white shoelaces. We used everything but the pliable, brown substance and the fluff to attempt a repair, but I was not terribly happy about the stark white bow which was now to be clearly seen hanging obscenely from the front of my wrecked trousers. Naturally, I had to remove my badlystained, oil-soaked coat because I couldn’t wear it on the stand, which meant that the large bow I then had on lewd display couldn’t effectively be disguised.
I was also not happy to subsequently learn that the problem with the forks was that some fool had filled the right leg with oil twice, while there was none at all in the left leg!
Naturally, I had to ride the Matchless home after the event, my brand-new trousers rent again as I flung my leg over the dual-seat and kicked the engine into life. I wore my suit coat home as well, of course, not only in a forlorn attempt to cover the gaping tear in my strides, but because that was the easiest way to carry it. In the end I was forced to pelt the whole lot out, including my lime green knickers, matching socks, tie and breastpocket handkerchief.
To his eternal credit old Perce North happily paid for a new suit, which I might add cost quite a bit more than the ruined one I hastily – if sadly - consigned to our household garbage bin.
Yes, my first experience at a great Motor Show was very daunting, attended by almost total disaster, some of it by my own making, I must say, but most of it entirely accidental and by no means through any fault of mine. I left A. P. North several months thereafter for greener (not lime) pastures, but it had nothing at all to do with the shenanigans at that 1954 Sydney Motor Show. I was to re-appear in the motorcycle trade a couple of years later at the suburban dealership, Ryde Motorcycles, and therein lie a series of similarly odd experiences!
WHAT SAY YOU?
WE
LOVE TO HEAR FROM YOU, the letters are among the most keenly read parts of the magazine. Please try and keep letters down to no more than 300 words.Then you can read many, not just a couple.We do reserve the right to cut them and, unless you identify yourself and at least your town or suburb and state, we will print your email address instead. Please address letters to thebear@ausmotorcyclist.com.au or Australian Motorcyclist Magazine, PO Box 2066, Boronia Park NSW 2111. All opinions published here are those of the writers and we do not vouch for their accuracy or even their sanity!
JOHN GETS BAGGED!
The winner of the AA Bagz from our mate, Andy at Andy Strapz is John Gould. We love that our readers are out there exploring great roads and letting
SOUR TASTE ISLAND
G'day Bear,
I was reading through AMM January edition #23 and Boris's Island Evolution struck a chord.
I am old enough to remember great rides from Queensland to the Bathurst Easter races in the '70s. The Hansford v Willing battle on the mighty 750 two stroke Yamahas in '74 will live in the memory forever. Unfortunately generations of
us know of any changes to the “not so ridden roads”. Enjoy your bag, mate!
SPOILSPORT ROAD SEAL
Hi Bear, Wife and I have just finished a one week, 3500km ride which included your Ride #128. We went Menindee to Pooncarie. I thought you might be interested to know that at about the 60km mark, there is now 20k of new bitumen, which makes for a nice rest after the previous stretch of sand, roos, emus and goats. When we did it the last 40k was being graded carefully, to hide as many ruts and potholes as possible under deep, loose dirt. Made for interesting riding.
Australian Motorcyclists have been unable to enjoy the on and off track delights of those race meets due to the actions of a few - firstly some nongs who spoiled it with their outrageous behaviour and secondly the elected 'leaders' who over reacted and set the stormtroopers loose on the mountain for baton practice. It was almost impossible to get into Bathurst through the Police blockadeswe were no longer welcome. The meet was
We use a 650Vee Strom, current model. What an underrated bike. Despite 2 people, full Givi luggage, heads winds and occasional advanced touring speeds we still got an average fuel economy of 4.1 litres per 100k from the trip with good comfort for two tall people.
Hope this is of interest, regards John Gould Meeniyan Vic
It sure is of interest, John. Unfortunately, Stuart thinks that tarring even part of the Pooncarie road takes a lot of the fun out of it! The Wee Strom is not underrated, you know. Lots of people swear by them, including me. Ours has been a terrific bike. It’s a shame that we have to sell it now.– The Bear
killed and the good burghers of Bathurst were left the poorer for its passing. Fast forward to Phillip Island and the first World Championship race in 1989. Could this be the 'new Bathurst'? It certainly felt like that sitting in my wet tent at the campground after swapping tall stories with new mates and old. 1990 and the duel between Gardner with his damaged fairing flapping in the breeze and the new kid on the block,
COLD BEER! GREAT FOOD and GOOD TIMES!
Doohan, revived memories of '74. Yes this was the real deal. I refused on principle to attend Eastern Creek during the 'dark years' but I have been to most meets since the event returned to its rightful home, The Island.
Fast forward again to 2014. We hit the first Police blockade just outside Bruthen after a cold but exhilarating early morning ride over Hotham. Then followed a procession of speed cameras, patrol cars and bikes along the highway. We hit our second Police blockade at Mirboo North and were definitely feeling unwelcome. Shades of Bathurst. The controls in Cowes which Boris so eloquently describes and our dodgem run home has definitely left a sour taste in the mouth and a large hole in the wallet for one our group who was slugged for being a few K over on a 100kph stretch of open road.
Sadly I (and many others I spoke to over the course of our trip) will no longer make the pilgrimage to The Island. It is clear we are not welcome by the elected 'leaders' of VicBloodyToria. The good burghers of Phillip Island will be left the poorer for its passing as were their contemporaries in Bathurst.
As a footnote I have never before been 'flashed' by so many oncoming 'Mum & Dad' car drivers, delivery van drivers and truckers as I was on the Victorian roads this October. Clearly the good people of Victoria are well and truly p--ed at the level of traffic policing in their home state.
Cheers, Tony Gray Brisbane
It’s easier to cope with simple bastardry
than with people who want to protect you for your own good, Tony, isn’t it? – The Bear
INDECISIVE OF CAMPBELLTOWN
Hey Pete
If I can afford this trip [The Bear’s Best of the West] which Harley should a bloke rent? I don't want a huge luxo barge with big fairings & hot & cold running baby oil.
I want one that's comfortable, actually has rear suspension, is a bit more on the agile side (for a Harley).
Only Harley I've ever ridden was an 883 when I went on a day’s guided ride in Ketchikan Alaska.
I'll have a squiz at the models. Meantime your advice appreciated. I don't know how they ride, but I kinda like the look of a Dyna glide custom. I've never known Harley model numbers, but have a vague recollection it might be an FLXD. Cheers
John Campbelltown
Well, John, I’ll be on the trip and I will be looking at either an XL1200C Custom (Sportsters are fairly light and easy to handle, and the Custom has the biggest tank) or an FLD Switchback, another relatively light bike and a Dyna. I would definitely suggest a Sportster or a Dyna, for handling. Take a look on the web; another bike may take your fancy? I look forward to seeing you on the ride! – The Bear
GLOSS TO GO
Dear Peter,
I am a long time reader and subscriber of ARR and now Australian Motorcyclist,
PHONE: 0064 3312 0066
and love your work. As an academic with the privilege of spending a lot of time reading, and who still enjoys the feel of physical books and magazines, I loved the flat, matt finish on the Australian Motorcyclist, that seems to have ended with issue #19, replaced with a standard glossy cover. A minor aesthetic point I suppose, but if there was no economic imperative to change it, I write to call for a return to the original finish, which really added to the feel of the magazine, and its distinctiveness.
All the best,
Tom Griffiths
Well, Tom, you are in the majority here. Several other people wrote in, and our Facebook responses confirmed that most of you prefer the matt finish. So from the next issue – the gloss is gone! – The Bear
COLD CHIEF
G'Day Pete, Just this morning I finished reading the January edition of AMM. Your bit about riding in the cold brought back some memories, not of riding in snow, never done that, never want to either. OK, OK, so I'm getting old---er. But the memories were of the late 1970s, of riding my old R60/2 BMW to and from work at Streets Ice Cream when they were situated in the Sydney suburb of Turrella. When I first started there I was living only about two miles away, but still chose to ride to and from wherein I had no time to get cold. But 1979 came around and saw Mrs Chief and I move out to Milperra. Not too far you say, only eleven miles. As I recall, winter time can be quite cold in that neck of the woods, especially riding alongside the river in a thick mist around midnight.
WHAT SAY YOU?
Yep! I was working afternoon shift. Still, it was a ride with little traffic mid-afternoon back in those days and almost non that late at night.
Back in those far of good old days the clothing we had, as you so aptly described, was not the best for retaining body heat, even the long johns didn't help the tank from being gripped so tightly by my knees that any moment I thought I would put an everlasting dent in both sides. Fortunately that didn't happen. To this day, the black petrol tank is still in pristine condition, although it could do with a bit of a polish. Here in the beautiful wine growing region of the Southern Vales in South Australia it does get cold of course, but to my way of thinking it is a dry cold, not a wet cold like the lower east coast of Oz, so riding here any time of the year is always on the agenda and pleasant.
But yes, memories of the good old days surface from time to time, your latest scribing brought forth more. Having said that, may I also say that the good old days are still here, but with better clothing. Happy new year to all at AMM and to all my fellow riders where ever you are.
Phil Lawton (Chief)
Hi, Chief. I wonder if anyone ever did put a permanent dent into his or her petrol tank by gripping it too tightly from cold or fear? Anyone out there? – The Bear
DYSLEXICS OF THE WORLD, UNTIE!
Hello Mr Bear,
My vote is for matt covers, and not only because my name is Matt. But that’s not what this letter is about. It is about the dangers of sub-editing your own copy, which is obviously what you, Mr Bear,
did in issue #24. If you don’t know what I’m on about, turn to page 47. How many “L”s are there in “functionality”? Two? I don’t think so…
But listen, I would rather have what is after all just a simple typo than the kind of thing I see every day in other magazines and in newspapers, where the writer doesn’t know the difference between “hoard” and “horde”, and definitely has no idea when to use “whom”. Split infinitives I can live with.
Matt Weston Dardanup, WA
Look, we had a few spare capital Ls and we didn’t want to waste them…
- The Bear
NECK TUBE TO TURKEY
Hi Peter
A quick email to say thanks for the Australian Motorcyclist Magazine bandana (neck tube) I received in the mail today.
The new magazine is great, really like the layout & I will definitely be taking the bandanna with me on our Ferris Wheels trip in April to Turkey.
Graeme Fitzpatrick
Thank you, Graeme. For anyone who is not yet aware of this, you get a free neck tube with any subscription to MOTORCYCLIST – The Bear
NIT PICKING AND MEMORIES
Good evening, Bear. Just a couple of things. Firstly: That Scout on pages 44-5 really looks the goods. I'm not a cruiser fan but I'd have one of those. That is modern minimalist done well. I could believe that if Indian
manage to put some real performance, and therefore get some street cred in those bikes they might well give HD a run for their money.
Secondly, nit-picking here: Customising. Metric or AF? Rather Metric or Imperial, although the Americans hate that term so generally just call it American. AF is not a thread system like SAE, UNC or (shudder ) Whitworth - although as far as I know Sir Joseph did give the world the first standardised thread system. In fact it stands for "across the flats" being across the diametrically opposed flats of a spanner. One could in fact ask for a 12mm AF spanner. We just don't.
Lastly I've just found an ancient copy of Camping Life and Leisure with articles on how to cook Mexican food and how not to get struck by lightning although disappointingly I could find no warranty for the advice. . . Never mind; I know where to find the author.
OK, Bear, that'll do. Have a really good Christmas and gird the loins for another year.
Cheers, Ross Halpin
Yeah, the problem is that there are measurements that differ between American and Imperial systems – take fluids, for example. You may be right, though. I will submit this to my tried and tested assessment system, namely my unconscious. In other words, if I remember what you say next time this comes up, I’ll change it. If not… well… Camping Life & Leisure, eh? I must do that lightning story again some time; more Australians are killed by lightning every year than by sharks, you know – The Bear
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DEAL WITH IT
Ispeed.There. I admitted it.
I speed. Every chance I get. In fact, every time I ride anything I am, at every opportunity, speeding.
Now before I go any further, all of you who have turned into tutt-tutting old molls instead of the motorcyclists you once were, go brew some tea and stroke your cat. This has nothing to do with you, and your views on how I ride my motorcycle are less than dust to me.
I speed. Get over it. Or don’t. I would struggle to give any kind of crap at all either way.
The point is that while the rules do apply to everyone, because we’re apparently all one big happy social bolognaise of community-minded idiots, I don’t care.
I don’t care because arbitrarily-set speed limits and the hysteria that surrounds their maniacal enforcement simply mean nothing to me. Yes, I have lost my licence quite a few times and I have certainly shovelled countless dollars into the state coffers, and I still don’t care and I still speed, and that’s the way it’s going to be and the way it’s going to go until they wedge my coffin into the crematorium.
Why is this so? Well, if you’re like me, and I know that most of you are (you teasipping, catpatters aside), it’s because it’s fun to go fast. If it wasn’t fun, I wouldn’t do it.
Is it safe?
Is that a serious question?
Is that even a question a
motorcycle rider would dare to ask?
The answer is: I don’t give a shit. I didn’t take up bike-riding because it was safe. I would not do it unless it was dangerous. So why make it more dangerous by going fast?
You cat-touchers really have got this motorcycle-riding business arse-about, haven’t you?
The answer to that stupid question is that I am the one, I am the only one, who decides what level of risk I am prepared to put up with.
If I feel that the run from Hay to Ivanhoe is best dealt with at 250km/hplus for as long as my mind and body can stand the battering, then that’s what I’m going to do.
If I feel that the Snowy Mountains Highway is singing to me, and my Spidey-Sense tells me there’s no cops ahead because I just passed one going the other way, I’m gonna roll the dice. Every time.
If I feel it is acceptable to howl across the Harbour Bridge at three in the morning doing 200km/h, with tears streaming from my eyes and my open-face helmet strangling me, then that’s what I will do. But I have not done that since the owners put up all the spy cameras, because I may be crazy, but I am not stupid. Australia is a big place. There is a finite number of Highway Patrol cars, and they’re usually fishing on major roads where the fishing’s best. I tend not to ride those roads unless I really have to. I am also entirely
unintimidated by those farcical longweekendy threats of dire double-point retribution. I know some of you are and will stay home rather than ride and take the risk of being done. Sucks to be you. If you didn’t speed, you wouldn’t have to worry about that, would you? Or maybe if you weren’t so stupid, you might go somewhere where the cops aren’t fizzing at the gills to catch you. I have nothing but contempt for people who’ve been monstered off the road by police propaganda.
I see you’ve put your cat down in outrage and are now going to mewl at me about the safety of other roadusers being compromised by my unfettered hooliganism.
Save it, bitch-titties.
I am highly unlikely to cause any physical harm to the occupants of a car I might collide with.
Another bike? Sure. I may well over-cook a corner one day and take out another rider. Oh well. This motorcycling stuff is dangerous. We’ve already established that. But in all honesty, I don’t over-cook so many corners that you need concern yourself overly much with that. I haven’t survived this long by simply trusting in the Baby Jesus to get me around a bend. It behoves me, as a motorcyclist, to constantly upskill myself as a rider, so that’s what I do when I’m not drinking in nudie bars.
This is not to say, of course, that I am blindingly fast. Try chasing Editor Woodbury around some day and see what fast really is. My mates will vouch for the fact that I am slower than some of them and faster than some of the others. Yes, they all speed too, by the way, every chance they get. It’s one of the reasons we all get on so well.
So there it is. I have placed my cards on the table and called.
Let’s see yours.
NOTTA WALLA FROM THE CAVE
DBEAR FACED
id I ever claim to be the sharpest chisel in the toolbox? I don’t think so. I like, however, to think of myself as someone who learns from his mistakes.
Case in point.
Some (maaany) years ago, I was the proud owner of a WLA HarleyDavidson. Here’s a tip – when they were the prime transport for a lot of people, courtesy of Johnno’s in Redfern who sold them for four hundred bucks each, painted to your taste, nobody called them “Wallas”. Referring to them by that vaguely derogatory term brands you as someone who “wasn’t there”, the ultimate dismissal. Okay? Never say I don’t do anything for you.
This was one of five WLAs that I have owned during my life and for my sins. It was not the one that crushed the rear bumper of the taxi down at White Bay without sustaining any damage to its front mudguard, far less its front forks. Neither was it the one that put the conrod through the sump down in whatever that dump in Victoria was (and is, I suppose) called. It was the one that had the panniers fitted to it. By me.
Normally, WLAs have leather panniers which are fitted with a bar equipped with bolts that slot into the holes providentially available on the bike’s rear carrier. My bike did not have these rather spiffy leather items, but I had a pair of top-loading panniers made by a bloke in Parramatta whose name I forget. These were good, strong items which had come off the same Ducati which had in its turn been fitted with the leather panniers originally from the WLA. Without giving the problem much thought, I drilled holes in the fibreglass boxes, being careful to fill in the existing mounting holes with – if I remember correctly – muffler putty. Well, I had some of it lying around, and I could cover it with muffler tape.
Tough stuff. The top loaders bolted straight on then, and I stood back with a feeling of utterly unrealistic achievement. But I didn’t know just how unrealistic it was, of course. With my tent strapped to the top of the carrier, and the sleeping bag on top of that, the panniers took all the other gear I needed for a weekend trip out to Newnes. That included the food for our little group of three; even if I do say so myself, I’ve always been the go-to for cooking on camping trips. That’s mainly due to the fact that I like to eat, and I like to eat good food. The offerings produced by many of my friends definitely didn’t meet the “good” requirement, and often failed the “food” one as well. My Huevos Rancheros, for example, although they were more than a little different from the originals, were welcomed with open mouths around any campfire where I’ve ever offered them. And I know that The Frog doesn’t agree that my Pot au Feu is, indeed, entitled to that name – but he eats it with every sign of pleasure when I make it.
So there we were on our way into Newnes, on a road that was dirt and nowhere near as well looked after as the current one. It featured potholes in all their glory, including some monsters; and the light was such that it was not easy to spot them.
Inevitably I hit one of the big ones. Now the word “suspension” is not normally applied to
Harley-Davidson WLAs. They do in fact have some, at the front. This consists of a spring and a friction screw damper. I’m not sure if that’s the technical term, but who cares? It doesn’t work. The bike is a “hardtail”, which means that there is no suspension at all on the back – unless you count the spring under the seat. This can be worse than useless; I recall a mate falling off his bike because he was laughing so hard after I’d hit a pothole and my “arse was higher than your head, mate” while I desperately clung to the handlebar.
So here I am on the way into Newnes, carrying my survival gear and food for three. I hit that pothole, the bike does a passable imitation of a seriously pissed-off bucking bronco and I see a wondrous sight in my mirrors.
As the rear of the bike bounces back up from the pothole, the contents of the panniers rip off the lids and keep going. A perfectly pannier-shaped column of food, clothes, tools and much more flies upward from each pannier, capped by the torn-off lid. The columns only last a second or so, then they disintegrate and my belongings are spread over a sizeable patch of the Newnes road. I get a major wobble up as I laugh madly; fortunately WLAs are inherently stable, so I come to a stop without falling over.
But you know what, the half dozen eggs I had in a kind of clip-together plastic holder (available from all good camping shops) remained unbroken. And I learned never to attach hard luggage to an unsprung motorcycle frame. A win-win all round, really. Peter “The Bear” Thoeming
IT’S OBVIOUS
I SAW EVERYTHING!
BOY OH BOY, WHAT HAPPENED THERE? HIC MY BIKE!
I‛LL CALL THE POLICE
WHOFFOR? IT‛S HARDLY NUFFINK! …A FEW SCRATCHES…
SO, HELMUT, WHAT DO WE WRITE?
I SAW IT ALL!
HMM, CRASH WITH MOTORCYCLE…
…SAME AS ALWAYS!
THE MOTORCYCLIST WAS GOING TOO FAST! YEP. CAUSE OF CRASH: EXCESSIVE SPEED!
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Ah the Darling River! Part of this land’s greatest river system; host to the only act of piracy in Australian waters; a place of myth, of history, an aortic artery to our history and development.
If you pretend to be even slightly interested in the life story of this land, you must ride the Darling River. Doesn’t really matter which direction. Downstream from the waterhole beginnings at Bourke to its confluence with the still mighty Murray at Wentworth makes sense if you start your days early and don’t fancy the sun in your eyes. Against the current will suit you if you enjoy the feel of a ride that pushes you farther and farther into the outback, literally to the Back ‘o’ Bourke.
Tilpa
to move on, head north out of town on the Broken Hill Rd.
I chose the second option and spent the pre-night at the Darling Junction Motel run by Lynton and Sandra. I first met them both when they lifted my bike off me after I’d broken my leg for the second time in 24 hours a couple of years back and I figure you can’t over pay a favour like that. Lynton’s is a keen biker and he rode with me on the first leg to Pooncarie. I was picking up a mate at the Pooncarie Pub and was glad for the company. These are not roads to ride alone and they are not roads to ride unplanned.
The obvious place to start this ride is beside the confluence of these two great rivers at Junction Park in Wentworth. After your mandatory photos, head back through the town and cross over the Darling River and
take the first left onto Wentworth St, which becomes Pooncarie Rd.
From here you’ve got 120km fully sealed deserted road ride through increasingly dry country up to Pooncarie, the last extended stretch of tar for a few days. There’s BP 91 available at Pooncarie during General Store hours on the right as you head through the town. The stretch to Pooncarie is also pretty much the last time you don’t have a choice of route but from here on, there are options for you on either side of the river. Every stretch can be ridden on either side of the river with very little difference in length or road conditions. The local councils will be able to advise which track was most recently graded and which is in the better condition when you plan to ride. For this guide I’ve just chosen one option for each stretch but there are crossing at Pooncarie, Menindee, Tilpa, Louth and Wilcannia.
Usually the most groomed track north from Pooncarie is to the east of the River so once you’ve refreshed at the Pub, continue north along the same road you came in on and you’ll soon come to the end of the bitumen.
Your first stretch is an unsealed 30km section usually with few corrugations but a variety of gravel, hard packed clay, sand, bulldust and well formed twin tracks. You then, for some reason, have just on 20kms of sealed road in the middle of absolutely nowhere (go figure!) before the final 60kms of unsealed smorgasbord into Menindee. Menindee has a good feel about it and has a great pub and top riverside camping a bit out of town at Kinchega National Park (See Town Notes), but whether you are overnighting or just taking a break here, once you’re ready
Ride out for 16km until you get to the Wilcannia Rd, with your target 137kms away. You’ll have a few kms of bitumen before you hit 128kms more of unmade but reasonably maintained gravel/ sand/clay/corrugations/dust/ etc.
Generally the better riding in this section at this time of the year is east of the Darling, so head south east out of Wilcannia for a bit over 6kms and then take the left onto Wilcannia – Bourke Rd, signposted Paroo-Darling National Park 43km. There’s no courtesy strip of sealed road here, just straight onto the gravel for the next 137kms to Tilpa.
Again you have the full variety of road surfaces from hard packed cracked clay to wide gravel to twin tracks to bulldust to everything in between whether it be red, yellow, grey, brown or black. And you won’t have much passing traffic to worry about.
At Tilpa there’s the pub. And a petrol bowser. That’s about it.
Best to swap sides of the river at Tilpa and switch to the western side of the Darling so head northwest from the pub and then after 1.5km take the second on the right (not the turn to the airport.)
It’s then 85km of dirt up to Louth where you are greeted with a couple of kms of tar before crossing back to the east bank of the Darling and the town which is only just bigger than Tilpa but with much cheaper fuel.
If you’re a bit over the sand, the bulldust and the gravel, you might find this next stretch a bit frustrating as it has no less than 6 small stretches of false dawn tar in its 100km length. Hang in there because by the time you pull up at the Port of Bourke you’ll have joined the elite band of riders who’ve ridden the Darling, truly one of the must-do rides for any adventurous Australian rider!
For a full gallery of photos, reviews of all mentioned hotels plus links to a google map and downloadable .gpx routes and POI’s please go to www. motorbikenation.com
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bridge over the Darling at night makes an unearthly sight.
www.hemamaps.com.au
ADVENTURES IN VICTORIA
Headnorth east out of Omeo over to Benambra (following this route in an anti-clockwise direction) – a bit of transit stage, with some twisty corners thrown in for fun. Out of Benambra carry on a few hundred metres and turn left onto Sloan Pendergast Road. Basically follow the side of Lake Omeo and onto the Hinnomunjie Connection Road, heading up into Hinnomunjie. Continue north onto Kellys Road up past Taylors Crossing. Remember to keep an eye on your bearings, as you want to make a continuous northerly track and get over to Wombat PO Hut.
From here, head west over Razorback to the Omeo Highway and head south down past Sunnyside. A few hundred metres past “Sunnyside” (there’s nothing there) veer left onto Knocker Track and continue south. This turns into Burnside Track. You will eventually join up with Valley Road and then get back down into Hinnomunjie. Continue on Valley Road around ten kilometres and go right to whip over to some excellent bitumen twisties on the Omeo Highway until you get to CallaghanMcNamaras Road – about one hundred metres on the left once you cross the Cobungra River on the Omeo Highway. Follow Callaghan-McNamaras Road
ADV TEAR-OUT MAP #10
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south, through Emu Creek to Innesfail, down to Victoria Falls – to High Forest Road, which will bring you out onto Great Alpine Road for your small trip back into Omeo to wash up and relax.
ROAD CONDITIONS
Depending on the time of year, you may encounter mud, snow, or slushy mud in this Alpine region of Victoria, so check the road conditions via either (or both) of these websites –http://parkweb.vic.gov.au/ explore/parks http://alerts.vicroads.vic.gov.au/
