Australian Motorcyclist Issue #101

101

, , CHEW EM UP AND SPIT EM OUT – THE WORLD OF TYRES

n a i l a r t s u A

FREE IN

SIDE:

T M OT O TEAR-OU

HARLEY- N DAVIDSO E R I W E V I L N

RCYCLE T

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- B ALL VEL MAP

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E M I T D R I H T LUOCURKSPYRI!NG JOIN NZ TOUR S T H G I L DE

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SE U O H R E POW CLE Y C R O T O M MUSEUM

ITTLE JUST A L ENT DIFFER

IED O ELECTRIF TERMS N OUR OW

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ISSN 2201-5442

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AUS $11.95 (Inc GST) NZ $12.95 (Inc GST)

YAMAHA’S MT RANGE ALL ABOUT THE NEW MT-09

STUART BACK ON THE PODIUM

THE BEAR LADY LUCK

BORIS WHAT THE WORLD NEEDS 3/6/21 7:48 pm

from

$7690 RIDEAWAY

INTRODUCING THE ALL-NEW METEOR 350 Ride with ease on a modern cruiser that embodies the true spirit of motorcycling. Take on the city streets with the all-new engine, timeless design cues and a redesigned chassis that delivers more power and control. Come experience the motorcycle that ensures you miss out on nothing.

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BOOK A TEST RIDE OR ORDER ONLINE AT

ROYALENFIELD.COM.AU

sign

@RoyalEnfield_Aus_NZ

@RoyalEnfieldAusNZ www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au

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CONTENTS

DO WHAT YOU HAVE TO DO TO DO WHAT YOU WANT TO DO Denzel Washington

SPECIAL FEATURES

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TYRES Roll on with our current guide

TESTING

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YAMAHA MT RANGE The full suite, including the all-new MT-09 HARLEY-DAVIDSON LIVEWIRE Put your money where your mouth is

TRAVEL

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THIRD TIME LUCKY Join our Spring Delights NZ Tour… now!

PUB OF THE MONTH Wellshot Hotel is a bloody ripper

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POWER IS KNOWLEDGE A museum with a difference MOROCCAN ROCKIN’ Join our Edelweiss Tour YOU MUST APOLOGISE World on Wheels memories BLACK SPRINGS Schmokin’ good readers travel

TEAR-OUT MAP

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Ballina – Kyogle: Pack it all in

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TECHNICAL

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IS IT DONE RIGHT? The Bear’s BMW F 750 GS DIAVEL BLOWJOB Power overload LONG TERMERS Ooh, shiny!

TIGER RESCUE Part 2, and better than expected

MORE GREATNESS

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EDITORIAL Blink and you’ll miss it NEWS Info that makes the world go round WHAT SAY YOU? Love youse all!

BEAR TALES Bloody lucky NEW BIKE PRICES Get in while the stock is available BORIS Just what the world needs SIGNATURE BEAR Roll on the floor laughing

Australian Motorcyclist

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Please enjoy Australian MOTORCYCLIST Magazine responsibly and add this issue to your collection.

MOST BACK ISSUES ARE STILL AVAILABLE; just visit the website www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au or drop us a line to contactus@ausmotorcyclist.com.au

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EDITORSPEAKS Editor Stuart Woodbury Contributing Editor J Peter Thoeming Sales Manager Ralph Leavsey-Moase ralph@ausmotorcyclist.com.au Designer Blair Pagan Photographers Nick Wood Creative, Half Light Photographic Contributors Robert Lovas, Boris Mihailovic, Chris Pickett, The Possum, Colin Whelan, Nick Wood, Bob Wozga Editorial contactus@ausmotorcyclist.com.au Subscription enquiries ausmotorcyclist.com.au, contactus@ausmotorcyclist.com.au Printer

PRINTED IN AUSTRALIA USING RECYCLABLE PAPER

Distributor Ovato Australian Motorcyclist magazine is published

by Australian Motorcyclist Magazine Pty Ltd. 17 Weeroona Place, Rouse Hill NSW 2155. Phone 0412220680 This publication is copyright. Other than for the purposes of research, study, criticism, review, parody or satire and subject to the conditions prescribed under the Copyright Act 1968, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted without the prior written permission of Australian Motorcyclist Magazine Pty Ltd. Opinions expressed within this publication do not necessarily represent those of Australian Motorcyclist Magazine Pty Ltd. No responsibility is accepted by Australian Motorcyclist Magazine Pty Ltd or the editor for the accuracy of any statement, opinion or advice contained in the text or advertisements. Readers should rely on their own enquiries in making decisions tailored to their own interest. *Recommended retail price Copyright © Australian Motorcyclist Magazine Pty Ltd ACN 161 432 506 ISSN 2201-5442

We encourage you to keep or recycle this magazine.

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BLINK AND YOU’LL MISS IT

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HOPE YOU ENJOYED ISSUE #100, but did you see the blatant mistake I left in there? No? You better go back and have a look. Page 77 and I won’t say anymore than that.

As I write this, I’m about to head off for this year’s BMW GS Safari, heading from Townsville to Cairns.

I am doing the first ‘three’ days, and what I mean by that is I’m there for the opening dinner and first two days of riding.

As I step back off the plane from Cairns I will be heading south to Kiama for the new Harley-Davidson Pan America launch. I’m rather interested to see how this bike fares in the dirt, however it might have to be post launch with a set of knobby tyres fitted that I really get to test out how good it goes in the dirt – look out for that. I know you’ll all be keen to hear my thoughts and whether it can take some proper bush bashing and go places where a GS styled adventure bike will go.

I recently got out for a race, on my birthday no less, for the Pheasant Wood Commuterlite 4 Hour. Shaun at D Moto Motorcycle Engineering got a Honda CBR125R some time ago and prepped it to go Commuterlite racing and when I saw a four-hour endurance race, I

thought this would be a bit of fun.

Shaun hasn’t raced in something like 30 years so he had no expectations other than to cruise around and our other rider, Simon was having his second or so ever race. A freezing cold morning greeted us as we got on track for qualifying at 9am. We qualified in sixth which I was happy enough with. I knew I could go much faster and I was sure, Simon and Shaun would get faster during the day too.

The race was split into two, twohour races with a compulsory three pitstops per two hours, with a break for lunch – great to make the day relaxing. LOL! I started the race, which was a Le Mans – run across the track start. By the end of my first stint we got up to fourth and stayed there through Simon and Shaun’s stints. I jumped on for the last part of the first two-hours and knew I could push and get us into third, which I did, setting (I think) the second or third fastest time (at that stage).

A break for lunch and a big juicy hamburger from the onsite café and I started the second two-hours, which was run behind a pace car for the first two laps, then a full speed full course yellow lap and we were into it. The top four bikes left everyone else behind and we diced like a world championship depended on it. It was a lot of fun, but what we didn’t realise was the first part of the race accumulated for the second part and it didn’t matter that we were millimetres from each other as the overall race was spread out further than that!

Simon and Shaun got on for some longer stints and I jumped on for the last 25 minutes. We were a couple of laps behind second but thought if I pushed hard we might make it back up. We got half close but ran out of time and ended up third overall – a great day and great run meeting. The surprise of the day was Shaun’s wife, Karen surprised me with a birthday cake! It was very nice, too.

Enjoy Cheers, Stuart.

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Alw

THE NEW

You can beat all opponents, but there is always a challenge you still have to face, the one within yourself.

For those like you who rise to any challenge, we have developed the new Ninja ZX-10R & Ninja ZX-10RR. Now that you have the definitive race focused Ninja, face yourself.

For more information visit www.kawasaki.com.au Always ride responsibly. Always ride within the limits of your skills, your experience and your machine. Wear an approved helmet and protective clothing. The actions depicted here took place under controlled conditions with professional riders.

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NEWS

UP SHE GOES

We’ve held off as long as we could, but we’ve had to put the price of Australian Motorcyclist up. The increases in production, materials and distribution have resulted in the rise. Think of it this way – it’s not even half a cup of coffee each month; or a third of one schooner a month. We continue to give you articles and features no other magazine will give you in Australia and the quality of the magazine production has not wavered, unlike most of the other motorcycle magazines on the newsagent shelf who have put the price up and used cheaper materials in production.

GO JUICE

INDEPENDENT Harley-Davidson has announced the launch of LiveWire as an all-electric independent motorcycle brand.

“LiveWire is more than a motorcycle.

LiveWire plans to redefine electric, delivering the best experience for the urban rider, with personality and soul. LiveWire creates a unique connection between rider and vehicle. Today, the next chapter in the LiveWire journey begins,” said Jochen Zeitz.

Jochen Zeitz is chairman, president and CEO of Harley-Davidson: “One of the six pillars of The Hardwire Strategy is to lead in electric – by launching LiveWire as an all-electric brand, we are seizing the opportunity to lead and define the market in EV. With the mission to be the most desirable electric motorcycle brand in the world, LiveWire will pioneer the future

of motorcycling, for the pursuit of urban adventure and beyond. LiveWire also plans to innovate and develop technology that will be applicable to Harley-Davidson electric motorcycles in the future.”

The first LiveWire branded motorcycle is scheduled to launch on July 8, 2021 and to premiere at the International Motorcycle Show on July 9, 2021. For more information and updates, register at livewire.com.

From launch, LiveWire will work with participating dealers from the HarleyDavidson network as an independent brand. An innovative go-to-market model will blend digital and physical retail formats, tailoring the experience to the local market and allowing customers to discover LiveWire on their own terms.

companies have been unable to introduce some of the world’s best fuel Australian motorists and the efficient and environmentally friendly environment will be beneficiaries of technologies to the Australian market,” the Federal Government’s plans to FCAI Chief Executive Tony Weber support the operations of fuel refineries said. in Geelong and Brisbane, including “We now have an excellent improvements in fuel quality standards, opportunity to align Australian fuel according to the Federal Chamber of quality with the rest of the world, Automotive Industries. encourage the delivery of the latest The FCAI has engaged with engine technology and take further Government during many years steps on the road to reducing CO2 regarding the actions necessary to emissions.” improve the poor quality of Australian Mr Weber cautioned that while this fuel standards, which rank among the was a significant and positive step, worst in the world. the development of fuel standards “The poor fuel standards in Australia was complex, and it required relative to regions such as Europe a cooperative approach with and Asia have meant that some car industry to ensure the best

outcomes for Australia.

“We will continue to work with the Federal Government to deal with RON, aromatics and other priorities to remove the technical barriers that will allow us to ultimately align with the highest fuel quality standards in the world and bring the best engine technology to Australia,” he said.

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U N L E A S H YO U R I N N E R D E M O N

With an all-new 180PS, 1160cc triple engine the Speed Triple 1200 RS is the most powerful, highest torque and fastest accelerating Speed Triple ever. Premium track specification equipment and 12kg lighter, it’s the most agile, precise, dynamic and responsive handling Speed Triple ever too. Add all-new TFT display, quickshifter, optimised cornering ABS and traction control, 5 riding modes and connectivity system as standard and it’s the ultimate performance naked sports ride.

The new Speed Triple 1200 RS – Triple Powered Revolution Discover more at triumphmotorcycles.com.au www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au AM0721.indd 9

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NEWS

SPEEDING UP With the perfect combination of character, style and genuine sports performance, the new Triumph Speed Twin is significantly updated for 2021 with higher performance, better handling, enhanced technology and even more premium custom style and detailing.

Here’s some of the details…

• 3PS more peak power, now 100PS at 7250rpm.

• Peak torque now lower down the rev range, with 112Nm at 4250rpm.

• More responsive with a 17% reduction in inertia.

• New higher specification Marzocchi USD forks with cartridge damping.

• New higher specification Brembo M50 radial monobloc calipers.

• New higher specification Metzeler Racetec RR tyres.

• New lightweight cast aluminium wheels.

• Upgraded riding modes – Road, Rain and Sport.

• More Premium Style and Detailing.

• New stylish 12-spoke wheels.

• New brushed stainless-steel twin upswept silencers.

• New anodised headlight and mudguard mounts.

• New distinctive tank graphics.

• 50+ Custom Accessories.

FAMILY EVENT CFMOTO has unveiled its all-new 800MT adventure family at the 2021 Beijing motorcycle show. It is expected to arrive on our shores later this year, and will include two separate models – the 800MT Sport and the up-spec 800MT Touring.

At the heart of the matter is KTM’s potent 799cc parallel twin, which produces 70kW at 8000rpm and 88Nm at 6600rpm. The 800MTs also have a slipper clutch, Bosch electronic fuel injection and a ride-by-wire throttle with three riding modes: rain, off-road and road.

The 800MT Sport and 800MT Touring share the 19-litre fuel capacity, expansive rider and pillion seats, tubular steel frame, fully adjustable KYB suspension, crash bars, 825mm seat height, adjustable screen

and Spanish J.Juan brakes with ABS. The major point of differentiation between the two is in the rolling stock: cast wheels on the Sport as opposed to spoked tubeless wheels on the Touring. Wheel sizes are 19-inch front and 17-inch rear – an ideal compromise for road and off-road riding.

“The official launch of the 800MTs in China last weekend was a huge moment,” said CFMOTO Australia director, Michael Poynton. “It not only adds a new and exciting chapter to the CFMOTO and KTM technical and operational alliance, but continues CFMOTO’s push into new and exciting markets.”

Pricing on the 800MT Sport and 800MT Touring will be announced soon.

OAM

Toby Price has received a Medal of the Order of Australia honour today at Government House in Brisbane. Toby was awarded the medal in an intimate ceremony

by Queensland Governor, His Excellency the Honourable, Paul de Jersey AC. Toby received his OAM in the General Division for Services to Motorsport both on home soil in Australia and internationally. Toby was recognised for his two Dakar Rally Wins, five Australian Off-Road Championships, five Hattah Desert Rallies, six Finke Desert Rallies and two Australian 4-Day Enduro wins.

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LAUNCH

YAMAHA MT RANGE WORDS STUART ︱ PHOTOS IKAPTURE / YAMAHA

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HERE ARE TWO SIMPLE factors that have made Yamaha’s MT range of bikes so popular – one is value for money: pricing is excellent for what you get. The other and most important factor is that the entire MT range is mega fun to ride.

Putting a smile on your face every time you ride a motorcycle is what it’s all about and the MT range does this.

For the 2021 launch, the main focus was on the all-new MT-09 and MT-09 SP, but there have been some other small changes in the range, namely to the popular MT-07. The first day was a road ride (in the rain) and on the second day we got to have a play at a private road course, which was dry until the rain came back around 2pm.

MT-10 / SP & MT-03

For 2021 the MT-10 and MT-10 SP are unchanged. They are still simply amazing to ride, handle awesomely and that stonking crossplane in-line four cylinder engine is gruntier than a wild boar with an arrow in its arse.

The MT-03, the baby MT, is also 14

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PART OF YOUR FREEDOM

NEW PRO BLAZE SADDLE BAGS FROM SW-MOTECH

REMOVABLE SUPPORT ARMS

STRAPS OVER SEAT

CLICK TO SECURE

READY TO RIDE

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unchanged from last year and was the first model to feature Yamaha’s new approach to headlights, with a single LED projector type arrangement. This has polarised many riders out there – some love it, some hate it.

MT-07

Moving onto the especially popular MT-07, there have been a few changes for this year. These include new bodywork, twin winglet air intakes, a new LED projector headlight, the refined 655 / 689cc engine with a throatier note, wider handlebars (15mm per side) now in aluminium taper not steel, larger 298mm front dual discs (up 16mm), inverted LCD instruments, black control levers, compact LED flashers and premium Michelin Road 5 tyres. Changes to the engine include an exhaust valve seat material change, air duct layout change, new ECU, intake pressure sensor change, exhaust pipe, catalyst and sensor change, fifth and sixth gear dog angle change and an added exhaust pipe protector. Most of these changes are to make the MT-07 Euro 5 compliant. Styling is in line with the 03 and now also the MT-09 and with an 09 parked beside the 07 in the same colour it takes more than a glance to work out which is which.

many headlight changes over the years it does take a little to get used to it. As an example, remember the Triumph Speed Triple when it changed from round to rectangle styled headlights? I think there were people ready to burn the Triumph factory down for that change, but having round headlights now would look too old in this current world – change is usually for the better.

As when the MT-07 was first

with the upgrade to larger discs on the front through tight and twisty roads the 07 is a force to be reckoned with.

MT-09

Now we move into the all-new third generation MT-09. I’ve loved the 09 ever since it came out with its light weight, great level of torque and that flighty sort of feel that always brings a big smile. When I jumped on this new model I was blown away with how much lighter it feels. I had to double check I was actually on an 09 as I thought I’d maybe jumped on the 07 by mistake! A four kilo reduction from the outgoing model for a 189kg (wet) weight means anyone can ride and handle the new 09. An 825mm seat height might restrict those with ultra-short legs, though.

The triple cylinder engine is virtually all-new, although this is not instantly noticeable. New pistons, rods, crankshaft, engine cases, camshafts and the list goes on. The crossplane crankshaft has been given 3mm longer stroke for a 42cc increase taking the all-new CP3 triple to 889cc. With 6% more torque (with peak torque now 1500rpm lower) with a fat midrange and 3% more power as the result, if you thought the previous 09 was torquey, wait till you ride this new one! In fact I do wonder if the new 09 will cannibalise some of the MT-10 sales. Yeah, sure, the 10 is outright faster and more ballistic, but the lighter weight of the new 09 makes it easier to ride faster.

The exhaust is an interesting one – very compact with two exits under the bike. The accessory system available does away with this compactness, but I’m sure someone in the aftermarket will design an under-bike system.

WITH 6% MORE TORQUE, A FAT MIDRANGE AND 3% MORE POWER AS THE RESULT, IF YOU THOUGHT THE PREVIOUS 09 WAS TORQUEY, WAIT TILL YOU RIDE THIS NEW ONE!

One eyed monster?

What do you think of the new single projector headlight? My initial thoughts were that the Yamaha designer must have fallen down some stairs and his brain was still fizzing when he or she carved that in clay, but in the flesh it is a little better.

Still, it wasn’t until I saw an 09 with the accessory screen on it that I said, “Okay, that’s acceptable”. As with

released, we get both the LAMS ‘LA’ and full power ‘HO’ versions. It has been some time since I’ve been on the LA version but it felt more restricted than I remember. That could also have had something to do with the wild MT-10 and super light and super quick all-new MT-09 I’d not long jumped off. After riding the LA I rode the HO version and I felt much more at home. I could in fact ride the HO very swiftly as it has strong torque through most of the rev range and being so light and flickable (partly thanks to the wider handlebar) and

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Gone are the old school throttle cables, now with YCC-T ride-by-wire throttle which Yamaha claim gives more refined throttle control and feel.

If you’ve ridden a previous model 09 you’d know the throttle was ‘sharp’, but it feels much nicer now. Three power modes and traction control are still there and with the introduction of the ride-by-wire throttle, cruise control is added to the SP version.

One trade off (sometimes) with having a lower retail price is that some components can be a little of a lesser 18

spec, and on most bikes this usually means the suspension isn’t at a level you might expect for the rest of the bike. The new 09 has seen a small price increase, but the suspension is now excellent.

The biggest change to the frame, besides being stiffer and 2.7kg lighter, and the subframe at 1.5kg lighter, is that the headstock is now 30mm lower. 30mm, that’s massive! A couple of millimetres is normally a big change, let alone 30mm. What this has done is make the front end far more

stable. You no longer hit the tiniest of bumps and have the handlebar waggling or the front wheel lofting to the sky. The new 09 now steers precisely and sharply with bucket loads of feel. You can chuck it on its side and push the front tyre hard, whereas before the front would be a bit too nervous to do that.

Another big change that aids the light handling and overall feeling are the new spinforged wheels. Following the initial casting process the wheel is spun and heated before a high pressure

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roller is applied. This compresses the rim, refining the crystal structure in the metal and reducing the rim thickness from 3.5mm to just 2mm without any reduction in strength or durability. And even better, this weight saving comes from the outside of the rim, maximising the inertial benefits; 700g from the rim is far more impactful than 700g from the hubs.

The riding position has been refined with the seat slightly higher and the handlebar 15mm higher – this gives you the feeling of sitting ‘in’ rather

than ‘on’ the bike. Yamaha has also introduced some adjustability with both the handlebar (via the bar risers being turned around) and footpegs (via the next position) able to be adjusted.

Seating comfort is good – I mostly rode the 09 during our road ride and never once thought I wanted to get off it.

Another great new standard feature for the 09 is an up and down quickshifter with a nice autoblip on the downchange. The QS operates above 2200rpm and 20km/h and the

assist/slipper clutch has been revised for a lighter clutch lever pull and even smoother shifting if you’re using it on downshifts.

As with most new bikes the electronics suite fitted to the new 09 is right up there. A new 6-axis IMU for lean sensitive rider aids is actually lighter and more compact than the current R1 system! The suite includes Cornering Traction Control System [TCS], Slide Control System [SCS], Lift Control System [LIF], and Cornering ABS (BC). There’s a whole www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au

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Specs YAMAHA MT-09 / SP PRICE: $15,249 / $17,299 (ride away) WARRANTY: Two years, unlimited distance SERVICING INTERVALS: Every 10,000km or 12 months ENGINE: 889cc liquid-cooled in-line three cylinder, 78x62.1mm bore/stroke, DOHC, 4 valves per cylinder POWER: 87.5kW @ 10,000rpm TORQUE: 93Nm @ 7000rpm TRANSMISSION: 6-speed, wet multi-plate A/S clutch, chain final drive range of settings you can configure, or turn off to be a hooligan.

Something I really like on the new 09 is the compact 3.5 inch TFT full colour instrument screen. Many manufacturers went for the massive iPad looking instrument panel, but this new one on the 09 is perfection.

Dead easy to read and jam-packed with all the info that you tech-heads could ever want.

MT-09 SP

Yamaha has retained the SP version and for only $2050 it is very tempting.

It is more of a premium offering (as expected) and comes with high grade KYB forks with diamond-like coating on the stanchions. A full adjustable Ohlins shock is in the rear, cruise control (as mentioned) comes standard, R1M inspired colour scheme looks very slick, as does the brushed and clear-coated swingarm. The seat 20

features double stitching and there’s a range of blacked-out components – smoked brake fluid reservoirs, brake levers, handlebar and rear sprocket.

Accessories

SUSPENSION: Front, 41mm inverted fork, adjustable preload, compression and rebound, travel 130mm. Rear, monoshock, adjustable preload, compression and rebound, travel 122mm.

Yamaha has gone all out and offers over 75 genuine accessories for the MT-09 and SP versions, and to complete the package there’s selection of MT branded apparel to choose from.

DIMENSIONS: Seat height 825mm, weight 189kg (wet), fuel capacity 14 litres, wheelbase 1430mm

The range

BRAKES: Front, twin 298mm discs with radial four-piston cornering ABS calipers. Rear, 245mm disc, single-piston ABS caliper.

The MT range has always been about raw torque and excitement.

Each model delivers that so if you’re considering the tiddler 03 to the big boy 10 you’re going to have a smile.

The standout, (being an all-new model) is obviously the 09. I’ll even put my hat in the ring and say it will sell more than the mega popular 07!

Yep, it’s that good. D

TYRES: Front, 120/70/ZR17. Rear, 180/55/ZR17

FUEL CONSUMPTION: N/A THEORETICAL RANGE: N/A COLOURS: Storm Flu, Icon Blue, Tech Black, Icon Performance (SP) VERDICT: Torque about good!

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C

COME WITH

TO

MOROCCO

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TRAVEL

IT’S ON AGAIN!

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E’RE DESPERATE TO RIDE…SOMEWHERE, and there is no better place than the South Island of New Zealand.

With the amazing treats that Spring pops up it’s a magical time to tour the South Island.

Let’s make our ‘Third Time Lucky’ tour a massive one – you know you’ve been hanging to get out on an overseas tour so this is THE tour to be on.

Book now to avoid missing out on your spot, you know you deserve it!

THIRD TIME LUCKY SPRING DELIGHTS GUIDED MOTORCYCLE TOUR, NEW ZEALAND SOUTH ISLAND NOVEMBER 2021

Day 0 Arrive Christchurch

Meet your bike at 17:00. Welcome drinks at 18:30. Meet your Paradise tour guides and Stuart from AMM.

Day 1 Christchurch to Blenheim 310km

We leave after breakfast heading north riding through rural land until we get to the Pacific Coast. After stopping in Kaikoura we continue alongside the mountains and beside the sea until we get to the Store, where the road heads inland. Great riding all day, sweeping bends, twisty climbs through the mountains, beautiful views.

Overnight in Blenheim.

Book your spot n ow!

PARADISE M

OTORCYC LETOURS INFO@PA .CO.NZ RADISEM OTORCYC LE TOURS.C O.NZ PH: +64 2 74 765 03 5

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Day 2 Blenheim to Nelson 170km

We’ll start the day at the Omaka Aviation Heritage Centre with its WW1 and WW2 displays designed by Peter Jackson (included activity) and then ride to Picton. Ride along Queen Charlotte Drive to Nelson, another spectacular road, with beautiful views along most of the 25-mile route into Havelock.

The drive climbs and rounds the headland overlooking Picton, the terminus for all freight and passenger traffic to and from Wellington. Then we ride over a low saddle between Charlotte Sound and Pelorus Sound, two of the four waterways that collectively make up the Marlborough Sounds. The road then runs alongside several peaceful bays.

Pass through Havelock, the home of ‘Green Lipped Mussels’ which are exported throughout the world. The mussel beds are clearly visible in the sounds. The route from Havelock is hilly and winding, with great roads and passes through miles of pine forests, planted for their timber. The fresh smell of pine forest is wonderful.

The land flattens out as we approach Nelson, the biggest fishing port in

New Zealand and the second largest city in the South Island, an attractive cosmopolitan city with up-market shopping and restaurants and its own ‘Mediterranean’ microclimate. Nelson’s diverse geography encapsulates everything from the long golden beaches to untouched forests and rugged mountains.

Overnight Nelson.

Day 3 Nelson to Hanmer Springs - 352km

Leave Nelson, heading south. Our onward journey takes us through Murchison. We’ll head into the mountains and stop to see Maruia Falls The small settlement at Springs Junction is next on our route, it is predominantly a service centre for travellers where you can buy petrol or a hot or cold drink.

The road climbs steadily to the summit of Lewis Pass at 865m. Lewis Pass is a fabulous scenic ride and an old Maori greenstone trail. This is alpine riding at its best - successions of sweeping corners and undulations set amidst world-class mountain scenery, following the route of the Maruia River.

At the top of Lewis Pass is the St James Walkway.

Overview

• Arrive 13 November 2021 Saturday Christchurch • Tour starts 14 November 2021 Sunday Christchurch • Tour ends 27 November 2021 Saturday Christchurch • Depart 28 November 2021 Sunday Christchurch •

14 riding days

• 15 nights good quality accommodation •

Two Full days in Queenstown

Inclusions •

Motorcycle rental

•

Unlimited kms

• Comprehensive motorcycle insurance • Reduced excess from NZ$3000 to NZ$750 at no charge • BMW trained Kiwi tour-guide lead rider • Tour-guide, support vehicle and luggage trailer • 15 nights good quality accommodation •

15 breakfasts

• Tour Information book emailed to you prior to the tour • Paradise Riding Knowledge and Safety Briefing •

Welcome drinks

•

Omaka Aviation heritage Centre

•

Milford Sound Cruise

• Tour celebration Farewell Dinner

Not included •

Anything not mentioned

•

All items of a personal nature

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T R AV E L

The road then follows the Hope River to the Waiau River through an expanse of farmland, straight, open roads with wide bends and superb views.

Turn left to Hanmer Springs and keep an eye out for bungee jumpers on Ferry Bridge as you cross the bridge across the Waiau Gorge.

Hanmer Springs is an alpine resort with famous Hot Springs. Check them out!

Overnight Hamner Springs.

Day 4 Rest, ride or explore Hanmer Springs - 350km

If adventure is what you are after, look no further than the wild beauty of Hanmer; it is a haven for forest hiking, mountain biking, horse trekking, bungee jumping, jet boating, and the Hot Springs. Your guides can give you some great road and easy gravel track routes.

Day 5 Hanmer Springs to Hokitika - 355km

Another chance to ride Lewis pass, then through the lower Buller Gorge to the beautiful west coast.

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We leave Hanmer Springs, the road follows the Waiau river through an expanse of farmland – the road is open and with wide bends and superb open views – very different from yesterday’s views, the road then follows the Lewis River through beech forests.

Ride through the beautiful Victoria Forest Park – miles of New Zealand beech trees rise up either side of the road. Stop at Reefton, ‘The Town of Light’ which owes its origins to the discovery of rich quartz gold reefs in the 1800s. In August 1888, at the height of the gold rush, Reefton turned on electric street lighting before any other town in the Southern Hemisphere. Gold is part of the town’s culture as well as its past, after re-opening one of its Gold Mines in 2006. Pass Larrys Creek on the Inanganhua River, a great place for trout fishing.

Carry on through the spectacular Lower Buller Gorge, where the road clings to the edge of the river next to the vertical stone cliffs.

On to the dramatic and rugged scenery of the ‘coast road’. Winding its way between the bush clad slopes, studded with Nikau Palms and the surf

of the Tasman Sea this has to be one of New Zealand’s most beautiful rides.

You will pass through Punakaiki where you will find the intriguing Pancake Rocks and blowholes.

The pancake rocks began forming 30 million years ago when limestone was overlaid with softer mudstone in a succession of layers. Over years, the elements have eroded the rock, leaving a pancake effect. When the sea is rough, the sound of the blowholes can be heard for miles. It is best to visit the blow holes at high tide.

Arrive at Hokitika. First settled in 1860, it was an important river port where many ships met their demise on the notorious ‘Hokitika Bar’ – a sandbar that shifts with every tide. The centre of the West Coast Gold Rush in the 1860s it was at that time the most populous settlement in NZ with a population of 25,000 and over 100 pubs. There are some lovely old buildings on the town’s historic walk, and you will notice several galleries specialising in pounamu jewellery and art works.

You’ll have time to explore the town in the morning.

Overnight Hokitika.

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T R AV E L Day 6 Hokitika to Franz Josef 135km

It is the ‘Ice Run’ today! Ride along the West Coast with views across the Tasman Sea. The scenery changes as you approach Glacier country to native rainforest, green and lush. Travel through Ruatapu and on to the gold town of Ross.

Then it is on to arguably the West Coast’s most picturesque lake, Lake Ianthe, where you can get up close and personal with the local birdlife by taking a natural history cruise with Tamati Nature Tours out onto the forest-lined lake in a Kauri launch.

Continuing along the Hari Hari highway, you cross the Wanganui River and ride through the town of Hari Hari, once a logging settlement but today a popular location for bush walking, bird watching, trout and salmon fishing. Along the main highway, you will find tearooms, a dairy and craft shops.

Ride past two of Westland’s lakes Lake Wahapo, a haven for fishing and home to thousands of native birds, and Lake Mapourika, a kettle lake formed when a large block of ice was left behind by the retreating Franz Josef Glacier some 14,000 years ago.

Our destination today is Franz Josef Glacier; nowhere else in the world at this latitude have glaciers advanced so close to the coast. The glacier is currently 12km long and terminates 19km from the Tasman Sea. The area surrounding the two glaciers is part of

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Te Wahipounamu, a World Heritage Site park.

The Māori name for the glacier is Ka Roimata o Hinehukatere (‘The tears of Hinehukatere’), arising from a local legend: Hinehukatere loved climbing in the mountains and persuaded her lover, Wawe, to climb with her. Wawe was a less experienced climber than Hinehukatere but loved to accompany her until an avalanche swept Wawe from the peaks to his death.

Hinehukatere was broken hearted and her many, many tears flowed down the mountain and froze to form the glacier.

Julius Haast was the first European visitor to describe the glaciers in 1864.

He named the northern glacier Franz Josef, after the Emperor of Austria.

The southern glacier was named after Premier William Fox, who visited the area in 1872.

For those who have booked helicopter flights onto the Glacier this afternoon is your first chance. It’s always weather dependent, mountains attract clouds, you will have another chance on the other side of Mount Cook.

Day 7 Franz Josef to Queenstown - 360km

A fantastic ride through Haast Pass today.

The road winds its way through the rainforest of the Westland National Park, with plenty of hairpin bends and undulations.

The cosy township of Fox Glacier is tucked into the forest foothills of

the Southern Alps. Named after Sir William Fox, NZ’s Prime Minister from 1869 to 1872, Fox Glacier describes both the glacier and the nearby village.

Like its twin, Franz Josef, the glacier descends from the Southern Alps down into temperate rainforest just 300 metres above sea level.

The road gets interesting as it winds its way through the native forest to the amazing Haast Pass, the lowest of the passes. Once a walking track used by Maori heading for West Coast reserves of pounamu (greenstone), Haast Pass was first crossed by Europeans during the 1860s gold rush. Construction of a proper road began in the 1920s and 1930s depression, and was finally completed in the early 1960s.

The Haast district (2006 population: 297) has always been the most isolated part of the West Coast. Until the middle of the 20th century there were only bush tracks connecting it to Hokitika (240km away) and Wanaka (145km). The opening of the Paringa– Haast section of State Highway 6 in 1965 provided an all-weather road link with the rest of the West Coast.

The ride from the West Coast to Wanaka passes through spectacular scenery and nowhere is more startling than the route between Haast and Makaroa.

You are riding through the Mount Aspiring National Park, through giant moss-covered native forest following the path of the Haast River.

Climbing through the Pass you will experience steep twisty sections with

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waterfall walks along the way – they are well sign-posted along this route so keep a look out.

Heading towards Makarora at the northern tip of Lake Wanaka, the perfect access point to the Mt Aspiring National Park, complete with spectacular mountain scenery, alpine vegetation and river valleys of silver beech.

As we leave the rain forest, we enter the warmer and drier Central Otago.

This route was a traditional pathway for Maori journeying west in search of pounamu (greenstone or jade). The basins that are filled by Lake Hawea and Lake Wanaka were gouged out by the Hawea and Wanaka Glaciers. Two arms of the glaciers joined at a narrow piece of land called The Neck.

Ride to Wanaka, alongside clear blue lakes with a backdrop of the snowcapped Southern Alps and Mount Aspiring National Park. For many years, Wanaka was a quiet summer

holiday place, although thousands visited for New Year’s Eve celebrations – often rowdy. The ski fields that opened from the late 1970s made Wanaka into an all-season tourist resort. The town hosts the annual Festival of Colour, an arts festival held in autumn.

We take the route across the Cardrona ranges – the highest sealed road in NZ at 1,076m and a popular ski area. The township of Cardrona began in 1865, when hundreds of settlers came to the Cardrona Valley, eager to stake their claim in the gold fields. As word got around, the settlement quickly developed and a commercial centre was soon formed.

Within three years there were four hotels, three European stores, four Chinese stores, four butcheries, one blacksmith and a baker. As the years passed, Cardrona expanded and by 1871 the population was such that it had become the centre of the butchery

trade in Central Otago. Cardrona remained an important commercial centre through the 1870s and 1880s, although it fluctuated with the changing fortunes of the mining industry. The Cardrona Hotel, Annexe and adjoining General Store are now the only remaining buildings from the early gold rush days.

Enjoy the steep descent into Queenstown as well as the hairpin bends along this route.

Day 8 and 9.

Enjoy Queenstown

Queenstown sits on the shores of the crystal-clear Lake Wakatipu, set amongst the dramatic alpine ranges.

It is home to the ultimate adventure bucket list, including skiing in winter, bungee jumping, sky diving, canyon

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T R AV E L swinging, jet boating, horse trekking, and river rafting year-round.

There are so many activities and adventures to choose from around Queenstown – you will have plenty of time on your two leisure days to get out and about. There are some great rides from Queenstown and your guides will give you all the information you need to enjoy them.

Day 10 Queenstown to Te Anau 172 km

Our ride today takes us around the spectacular Lake Wakatipu to the untouched area of Fiordlands. At the southernmost end of Lake Wakatipu is the pretty township of Kingston. We

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head on to Te Anau and Fiordland.

Nestled on the edge of Lake Te Anau, the largest lake in the South Island and second only within New Zealand to Lake Taupo, the picturesque town of Te Anau is the main base for the glaciercarved wilderness of the Fiordland National Park.

Day 11 Te Anau to Milford and return - 220km

FILL UP WITH FUEL IN TE ANAU - THERE IS NO FUEL IN MILFORD. The road hugs the shoreline of Lake Te Anau for about 29km until it reaches Te Anau Downs.From Te Anau Downs, the road veers right and enters the Eglinton Valley.

The road then runs parallel to the right side of the Eglinton River for 33km while it passes through Knobs Flat.At Cascade Creek, the road emerges onto the shorelines of Lake Gunn and Lake Fergus.

Stop at the Mirror lakes – on a calm day the mountains reflect in the black water. The road then passes through a saddle and emerges at the upper section of the Hollyford Valley. Stop at the lookout point for amazing views.

After Hollyford, the road veers

to the west and rises steadily along the valley to its highest point at the Homer Tunnel. At 1270 metres long, it is the second-longest road tunnel in New Zealand. The tunnel, carved out by hand through the mountains, is a one-way road, and you may have to wait up to 15 minutes for the lights to change.

Sunglasses off in the tunnel, there are no lights.

The road emerges at the head of the Cleddau Valley and the last 16km descend along the valley to Milford Sound. Keep an eye out for the cheeky, very intelligent Kea Alpine parrots – they have a taste for rubber and plastic, so don’t encourage them anywhere near your bike!

We’ll start the day with a cruise on Milford Sound.

Milford Sound is justifiably the most famous visitor destination in New Zealand. Visitors are drawn by the spectacular sights of waterfalls cascading from sheer rock faces rising 1200 metres or more from the sea, lush rain forests clinging precariously to the cliffs, and the seals, penguins and dolphins that frequent the waters.

With 182 days of rain every year, Milford Sound is one of the wettest places in New Zealand however the rain creates stunning treats for visitors with dozens of temporary waterfalls

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created both at Milford Sound and along the Milford Road.

Maori are believed to have discovered Milford Sound more than 1,000 years ago, returning seasonally to the fiord to collect the much-prized pounamu (greenstone). These treks from the east used traditional pathways across passes such as MacKinnon Pass on the Milford Track. The Maori named the sound Piopiotahi after the thrush-like piopio bird, now sadly extinct.

In 1812 John Grono was the first European settler to land in the sound. He named Milford Sound after Milford Haven in Wales, while the Cleddau River which flows into the sound is also named for its Welsh namesake.

Overnight Te Anau.

Day 12 Te Anau to Invercargill 200km

A relatively short but great ride through the Southern Scenic Route to Invercargill today. Quiet roads with very little traffic in this mostly unpopulated area.

Great scenery as we ride alongside the sea, not much in between us and Antarctica here.

We have lots to see and explore in Invercargill, all the Burt Munro bikes, gear and memorabilia, plus the most wonderful motorcycle museum, the beach that Burt used to race on, the list goes on.

Overnight Invercargill.

Day 13 Invercargill to Mount Cook Village - 455km

We head north through the magical landscape of Central Otago today, back towards the mountains and lakes. Through the moonscape that surrounds Alexandra, and on to Cromwell and the fruit bowl of New Zealand. Then we ride the Lindis Pass and into Makenzie Country. Blue lakes and Mount Cook await.

Overnight Mount Cook.

Day 14 Mount Cook Village to Christchurch - 330km

Ride towards Lake Tekapo and the Mackenzie ranges heading towards Burke’s Pass; separating the Two

The cost Prices for the tour are in NZ$ BIKES

TOTAL FOR A COUPLE

SINGLE RIDER OWN ROOM

2 RIDERS 1 ROOM PER PERSON

GROUP A F750 GS, F800GS, F700GS

15,925

14,000

11,200

GROUP B F850GS

17,500

15,500

12,600

GROUP C K1600GT, R1250RT, R1250GS

18,200

16,275

14,250

Thumbs and Rollesby Ranges, Burkes Pass permits easy entry to the high tussock lands of the Mackenzie District.

Pass through Fairlie.

The town of Geraldine is next, in the heart of a prosperous farming area with sheep, cattle, deer, dairy cows, cropping and fruit growing in abundance. Almost 3,000 people live in the township and surrounding areas.

You are now on the scenic route to Christchurch travelling via Route 72. This rural main road follows the western boundary of the Canterbury Plains and takes you through a succession of country towns, including Staveley.

Ride through the lush farmland of the Canterbury Plains through Mount Hutt, the main skiing area for residents of Christchurch.

Like a patchwork quilt made with every shade of green, the Canterbury Plains lie between the mountains and the sea, formed from the alluvial

shingle fans of several large rivers - the Waimakariri, Raikaia, Selwyn and Rangitata. The area produces more than 80% of New Zealand’s grains, crops and seeds.

Arrive at Christchurch, the most English of NZ’s cities, built on the banks of the Avon River and sadly damaged by earthquakes. An eclectic mix of historic elegance and contemporary culture, Christchurch is known as the gateway to the South Island.

Described by Lonely Planet as a “vibrant city in transition, coping resiliently and creatively,” Christchurch’s energy is evident wherever you go. The city has bounced back after the Canterbury Earthquakes of 2010 and 2011 with innovative new attractions, as well as some old favourites.

Upon arrival in Christchurch, please return your bikes to our base.

Overnight Christchurch, Tour Celebration Dinner tonight.D www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au

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TECH

THE GOOD SHIP WUNDERLICH (ET AL) A RIDE TO SEE IF I SET MY BIKE UP RIGHT WORDS AND PHOTOS THE BEAR

Australia’s small towns like Olary continue to die, even on a busy road like the main connection between Adelaide and Sydney

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P

The bike looks the part for a long distance explorer, without excessive baggage strapped to it everywhere.

Everything’s good, except someone turned all the fuel pumps off on the lower Darling.The Bear was not happy.

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NE OF THE SWEETEST sounds you can hear while barreling down a rough Outback gravel track is a loud, metallic ‘clang’. It means that you did the right thing by fitting that aluminium sump guard, which in turn suggests you selected your other accessories properly as well. Which is important when you’re out on the other side of the Mundi Mundi Plain and you have just realized that you will theoretically only have six kilometres of fuel left when you reach the next pump… provided you are riding in the right direction. Nothing like a little reassurance about the quality of your judgement.

Let’s look back to when this all started, a year or so ago when I bought a BMW F 750 GS and began to plan the process of kitting it out as an ‘around-the-world’ adventure bike. One of the few truly sensible things I have ever done while customizing a bike was the decision to go with a single supplier, as much as possible. Since I was, and am, an admirer of the equipment that the German firm Wunderlich produces for BMW motorcycles of all descriptions, they were a logical first step. When I spoke to them about the project they were enthusiastic enough to offer me the items I needed, free of charge.

“Let us know how it all performs,” said Wunderlich’s Arno Gabel. “This will be interesting.” Australian riding conditions are tough enough to be a bit of a byword in German BMW Motorrad circles, ever since Munich realized that they should have done pre-production testing of the K Series in Australia all those years ago, not South America.

I’ll tell you the story one day.

So the list went to Germany, the parts arrived at the Australian Wunderlich distributor, Procycles. I had them fitted at their St Peters shop in Sydney. I learned a long time ago that fitting accessories to a bike is best done by the supplier. Not that I make many mistakes, but I like to be sure that it’s done properly.

ON AND OFF THE ROAD

The initial impulse to build up this bike might have been to create an around-the-world machine, but courtesy of the Chinese bats any such rides are still some way off. Not a problem. Australia presents many opportunities for rides that are at least as stressful for the bike (and the rider at times) as any others around the world. Considering options, I realised that I had not been to the Flinders Ranges for some 30 years, and it was well and truly time to repeat that visit.

There were a few other destinations out there on gravel or sand tracks I took that added up to 500km or so to the riding on sealed roads – two day-long transport stages of 800km each to get there, and then much the same back would take care of any questions about long-term comfort.

Call it something over 4000km all up, and eight days to allow time for photography.

That would have to do as a test for bike and accessories.

Let’s have a look at them one by one. The prices were correct at time of fitting. www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au AM0721.indd 31

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TECH

Aton LED Accessory Lights, $841.01

Accessory lights, spot lights, running lights or whatever you want to call them serve two purposes.

They create a triangle with the headlight that makes it easier for a driver waiting to enter a road or approaching head on to judge the speed and rate of approach of the bike. They also light up the world in front of you more than your headlight alone, without annoying nighttime oncoming traffic if they are set up properly. All good. These particular ones mount solidly and look both strong and smart. I don’t really know how well they work in the dark, because that is usually not a time to be out on the track confronting kangaroos but for sitting at the bar confronting a schooner. On the one occasion I found myself out in the gloaming, they filled in the picture out front very nicely. And I did not hit a ‘roo despite the presence of a bazillion of the pesky macropods.

ACCESSORIES FROM WUNDERLICH:

Aktivkomfort Seat, $900

This is a good item to start with, because I simply cannot praise it too much. BMW Motorrad’s own seats these days are pretty good, as I have just noted when I put a few thousand kilometres on an F 900 XR, but the Wunderlich ones are in a category of their own. More than 4000km in less than 8 days left me still comfortable and able to walk like a human being, not a senile duck. The seat is also narrow enough so you can stand up easily on the pegs in deep sand or gravel. I should add that the seat is beautifully made and fits perfectly. It does not seem to change the relationship with the pegs and the handlebar, as lower or higher BMW seats will. It may seem a little self-indulgent to praise a seat so much, but let’s face it, if your bike’s seat is not comfortable your ride will be much less enjoyable.

Vario Wind Deflector, $244.98

This is a neat little gadget on top of the main screen that probably looks a bit excessive but has a lot more useful functions than you might think. Changing the tilt angle varied the wind pressure on my helmet from almost none to full on, a useful thing to be able to do to adjust not only for rain dispersal but also cooling. The Vario kept bugs off my visor, as well, which was nice, and noticeably reduced wind noise. It’s easily adjusted without any tools, although I guess you would want to tighten it occasionally.

Elephant Tail/Seat Bag, $365

I didn’t take the tail bag on this ride. The space on the rack was taken up by my camera bag, and I didn’t really want (or need) a bag on the pillion seat behind me. I have reviewed the bag before.

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Side Stand Enlarger, $99

To be honest I don’t know if this is particularly useful. It didn’t seem to be, on this trip, but maybe that was because I didn’t use the side stand in mud or deep sand. A worthwhile precaution, I suspect. It fits well and looks strong, and if you do need it I suspect you really will need it!

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Extreme Windscreen, $433.02

Another worthwhile addition. The little original flyscreen did not do much for me, but the Extreme really looked after me. Wind blast was deflected, with just a little support for my shoulders. The air in front of what passes for my body was as still as if it had been in a capsule. This makes a big difference when riding in variable temperatures; the screen makes it unnecessary to change to a warmer or cooler jacket quite so often. Helmet noise is kept relatively low as well, although the F 750 GS is quite a noisy bike and there is nothing much you can do about that except wear earplugs, which I do. There – I have learned one lesson!

Engine Protection Bars, $565.03

I guess there is a reason somewhere for dividing the protection bars into two items, but obviously they go together. Like the tank bars below, these are well made and fit easily and conveniently. Both sets of bars look good, too. I hope I don’t ever test them, but if I do – they’re in place.

Extreme Panniers, $1686

Sportbag Tank Bag, $375

This bag clips onto the tank without either magnets or straps, with pop fittings on a frame that looks like it belongs on the tank. This is unobtrusive, and the system is remarkably useful. Like the Seat Bag it is just that, a bag without internal divisions or pockets.

The bungee cords on top were useful to hold maps, and the bag itself held a couple of cameras and some other stuff including sunscreen. My cameras were always in easy reach whenever I stopped. Simple, practical and sturdy: I don’t think I will need another tank bag for as long as I keep the F 750 GS. I like the bright blue lining in both bags, too.

It’s funny, isn’t it. I’m quite a stickler for aesthetics on bikes, but I like these clunky-looking aluminium boxes. Partly, it’s true, just because they are less likely to break or, as I have seen happen, explode during a crash. But also because you don’t have to worry about using every nook and cranny for storage – because they don’t have nooks and crannies. The shape is about as simple as you can get, except that the right-hand one has a cutout to accommodate the exhaust. I use so-called soft packing bricks, box-shaped bags made of nylon, and fill the panniers as if with Lego. These panniers are easy to fit and to lock in place on the bike as well, but otherwise, let’s face it – an aluminium box is an aluminium box, although the workmanship is outstanding. The nets in the lids are useful for stuff you want right away. The loops on top for extra tyingdown are kind of nice, but I don’t like to carry too much gear outside the panniers. The Flinders Ranges dust stayed where it was supposed to stay, exactly there – outside the panners. www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au

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TECH Headlight Protector, $296.02

Features a clear and strong plastic ‘lens’ and a stylish aluminium frame that allows it to be flipped up, rather like the visors of some of the knights in ‘Monty Python and the Holy Grail’.

There. I bet Tall Paul that I could include a mention of the film in this story and make it sound natural, and I have done so. Not that I really wanted to win a genuine (?)

MG TC badge, but hey…

ACCESSORIES FROM WUNDERLICH:

Pannier Locks, $59 per pair (Total $118)

Well, locks be locks. These stand out for the stainless steel from which they are made and the snug-fitting rubber caps over the keyholes.

Aton Protector Grilles, $199 each (Total $398)

These wire grills look the part and would stand up to any encounter with a rock, I imagine. They’re strongly mounted too, and have that hairy-chested and ‘adventury’ appearance. Does that matter?

Sure it does.

Aluminium Sump Guard, $433.02

‘Clang!’ Another rock hits the guard rather than the engine. This hydroformed item also protects the lower parts of the exhaust headers, something that the plastic OEM guards seldom do. As with the radiator guard I would expect the OEM to provide a decent shield here, but I have yet to see any. As one of my more cynical friends says, “Why fit something if most riders will never need it on their way to the café?” but he’s a bastard.

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THE BMW FEATURES I PARTICULARLY LIKE (OR NOT) ARE:

Heated grips

Sometimes derided as a ‘soft’ accessory on an adventure bike, they actually offer a number of advantages. You need one pair of gloves fewer – and those are the big, bulky ones. You don’t need to stop to change gloves.

Early morning starts don’t involve cold hands. Oh, and they can mean the difference between attention wasted on cold and uncomfortable hands, and the same attention where it should be, on the road.

Cruise Control

Priceless. Anyone who has a touring bike of any description without Cruise Control is either behind the times – a long way – or a masochist. If your bike is not fitted with it, get an aftermarket unit. When you sit on an unchanging road for some 400km at a time, cruise control will keep your right hand and wrist from turning into malformed, cramped and painful extremities. Don’t argue.

Distance-to-empty indication Upper Tank Protection Bars, $497

Together with the engine bars, next, these seem to be a standard feature on adventure bikes. With good reason, too. A single drop can cause horrendously expensive damage, not to mention the possibility of leaving the bike unable to proceed. Protective bars also often give you a place to attach (accessory) spotlights. The Wunderlich variety is well made and fits easily and conveniently. I have not tried them out because I had the Aerostich tank panniers fitted the one time that I did drop the bike, and the right-hand one took the fall – so to speak. No damage there, either. It was a standstill drop.

Pannier Mounting Frame, $522.01

The frames look pretty strong and they proved to be exactly that. The link across the back is good and keeps everything rigid. Good to have things rigid, isn’t it. Fitting at the top is at the BMW pannier frame mounting points.

I had the frame powder coated in black to fit in with the engine and tank protection bars, and that looks really smart in my humble opinion. I can now ride around without panniers and not look like the bike is incomplete.

Radiator Guard, $199

Like a few other accessories, it would really seem that the bike’s manufacturer should fit something like this, or design the radiator so it has integral protection. But the price point hovers like a hungry raven over anything that can be left out, and that usually includes the radiator protection. The Wunderlich protector looks good and does the job as far as I can tell; I heard quite a few pebbles hit it on faster gravel sections and there was no damage. This is a vital addition; you will deeply regret it if you hole your radiator somewhere in the Outback. Actually, you’ll regret it elsewhere, too.

Yes, I am sure that this is an outstanding feature (well, I’m not) and some people will find it useful, but it seemed kind of inconsistent to me. I like those bars on the screen that just show you the amount of fuel you have. In fact I would like the number of litres left in the tank, not the distance, to be displayed. The tank holds 15 litres, and it has told me that I had anything from 195 to 344 kilometres left on a full tank. This is strange, to put it mildly. I would also like a larger tank, but I knew what I was getting when I bought the bike.

Tubeless tyres

I know that there is a constant and consistent argument about tubeless tyres and the cast wheels that go with them, but do me a favour: hammer a nail into a tubed and then a tubeless tyre, and fix the resulting holes. If you still need convincing that tubeless is the way to go, you are beyond help from a poor man like myself.

ABS and Traction Control

Anti-lock Braking is good to have and good to be able to switch on and off. It was fun watching the Traction Control light flicker on and off as I climbed some of the steeper sections in the Flinders Ranges tracks, but fun is about all I’ve ever got out of that.

Rain/Road modes

Um, well, yeah. Modes, eh.

Centre Stand (fitted at extra cost)

Mainly useful for lubricating the chain, the centre stand is kind of annoying on the GS because its arm sits just under the left pillion foot peg and is therefore difficult to reach. If you encounter an F 750 or 850 GS rider swearing by the side of the road as his bike wobbles to and fro, this is likely to be the cause. I will probably remove the pillion foot pegs. Mrs Bear is unlikely to climb aboard the GS. www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au

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TECH Rocky Creek Phone holder/charger

Clamps to the handlebar and looks as though it would survive any crash. I found that it was in the wrong place (conflicted with the tank bag) so it will be moved, but I would not like to do without it. The ability to not only keep the phone charged but also to see its screen are highly useful. And in the Outback as elsewhere, you don’t want to be without your phone. Oh, and you don’t want to be with Optus, either. It’s Telstra or nothing, except for emergencies. Wonder who decides what is an emergency?

“We are out of cold beer, help us…”

ACCESSORIES FROM OTHER MANUFACTURERS:

Barkbusters Handguards, $129.90

I should hardly have to mention these Australiandesigned and -made items. Must have these, do not argue.

Barkbusters Carbon Shields, $194.95

These are the best-looking, in my opinion, shields for the Barkbusters. Do not argue about them, either.

Just fit them. By the way, these are available from Wunderlich as well, but I got mine straight from the Australian manufacturer. Lots of manufacturers make their own versions, and you would think that designing them along with the rest of the bike would make them better – but it doesn’t. Barkbusters set the pace.

Akrapovic Slip-On Muffler

This is just me. Probably not necessary, but supplies a nice note and may or may not give a bit more punch.

Above all, I love Igor like a brother and I trust his work unquestioningly. If he made a slip-on muffler for my lawn mower, I would have one.

THINGS I WOULD HAVE LIKED TO HAVE:

Automatic chain oiler

The bike definitely deserves one of these, seeing that I am quite often preoccupied with other things when I should be oiling the chain manually.

Some way of telling where there is no petrol

Lyndhurst, on the Outback Highway in South Australia, has two fuel suppliers. Both offer diesel, and neither offers petrol. When I was there, 36

Aerostich Tank Panniers

You only need to take a cursory look at Andy Goldfine’s beautifullymade tank panniers to realise that he is a man who cares about the details.

Outstanding work, and because the 750 GS is a bit short on fuel range, I will probably use them in due course to carry spare petrol. On this trip I had the bike cover in one side and security cable/lock/water bottles in the other.

Positioning is good, the Wunderlich tank bag holds them in place and you can see them at all times. Also, as I demonstrated on this ride, they act as wonderful buffers when you drop the bike. They look wide in the photo, but do not make the bike wider than the panniers – so they’re a good guide for slipping through traffic.

Menindee, Wilcannia and White Cliffs all had no electricity or – therefore – accessible petrol. Come on – is there an app for that?

An effective way to secure my camera case I used plain old bungee cords, which was a mistake. They don’t last particularly well, and one broke and left the cased clinging parlously over to the side of the bike. I will need to work out a way to make Andy Strapz do that job and still allow me to open the case without removing the straps.

Singing lessons

Out on the open road, I sing inside my helmet. Whenever I think of this, I remember Grant Roff asking Jimmy Barnes if he sang inside his helmet. When Jimmy said yes, Grant asked: “Do you ever think, hey, I’m listening to Jimmy Barnes?” I spend a lot of time singing on the road, and I sing very badly so I wish there were, maybe, some voice exercise or something I could do. Not that I’d expect to end up singing like Jimmy Barnes. But then again, he can’t ride like me, either.

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TECH

This HJC V90 helmet was supplied by: McLeod Accessories, PO Box 416, Northgate Qld 4013, mcleodaccessories.com.au, 07 3621 9000

Wunderlich accessories were supplied by: Procycles St Peters, corner of Princes Highway and Albert Street; www.procycles. com.au; 02 9564 8000

FIRST USE ON A PROPER RIDE:

HJC V90 Helmet

The first thing that came to mind when I saw a picture of this helmet was Stan Freberg’s spoof of the Lawrence Welk Show, ‘Turn Off the Bubble Machine’. Most of you will have no idea of what any of that means.

That’s fine; show us that you were well brought up and your mother would be proud of you by reading on without raising your eyebrows or making that Skippy ‘tch’ noise.

The key word is ‘bubble’. The historic bubble visor makes the helmet look really classic, and since I was working on a classic-style custom bike it was obviously the helmet to match it. When the V90 arrived, I could see that the shell shape is also subtly oldstyle, making the package consistent.

Nice. And it is a modular helmet as well, with a simple and effective opening button.

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Which suggested taking it out on a decent ride, not just showing off on the GB400 it was originally intended for. The V90 acquitted itself outstandingly well, and although part of its quietness was clearly due to the windscreen’s Vario wind deflector, the helmet itself contributed quite some quiet. Sorry. My usual warning here: just because I find a helmet quiet is no guarantee that you will, at least not until we all have standardized heads.

Not long now.

A sunscreen tucks away into the shell above your brow and the actuating lever is smooth. I liked the little button that secures the visor itself when it is closed. That is probably part of the reason for the integrated feel of the helmet. The shell is made from fibreglass, but is pleasantly light at only 1600gm. Build and paint quality are high as you would expect from HJC, a firm with 45 years in the helmet business. It comes with a three year

warranty and is offered at a range of prices on the interwebs.

The V90 made a good companion out on the road, and was still comfortable after 500km days. My head might have been soaked in sweat, but next morning there was no pong and the Silvercool lining felt like new.

Any complaints? Just one thing: I like the bubble visor, and that’s what attracted me to the V90 in the first place. But because of the curve, you can’t just clean it with a servo squeegee.

My my, we are spoiled these days.

Oh, there is another one. The helmet I have was brought in for assessment.

The V90 will probably not be available until 2022. Bummer.

(You will read about the actual ride in the next issue, but only if you buy the magazine. It does not feature Jimmy Barnes, but it does include Mark Douglass from Pitt Town and David Crombie from Forest Lodge, both in NSW. Onya, fellas.) D

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LEGENDARY 2WD GEAR UP FULLY ENGAGABLE SIDECAR WHEEL

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PUBOFTHEMONTH

RATED 4 OUT OF 5 HELMETS

Wellshot Hotel South side, Landsborough Hwy Ilfracombe, QLD (07) 4658 2106 wellshothotel.com.au

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WELLSHOT HOTEL Well, shit eh!

WORDS & PHOTOS COLIN WHELAN

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PUB OF THE MONTH

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LFRACOMBE – 80 KILOMETRES west of Barcaldine and just 20 minutes east of Longreach is a place where, if you’re interested in this country’s history you’ve just ‘gottagota’.

And if you’re interested in stunning iconic pubs full of unique stories and in the care of good people, it’s Wellshot Hotel is the place for you.

As the boss of the Qld A.W.U. explained it in 1954: “The Labor Movement in Queensland as we know it…, was born in the pastoral areas of this vast State.

In 1886, at Wellshot station… industrial trouble arose at shearing time because shearers would not accept

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the… slave-like conditions of work proposed (and) went on strike, and the news of their action went like a bushfire throughout the outback (and) when no settlement was reached at Wellshot the men began to march on Blackall (where, with shearers from other gangs and stations) they decided to form the Shearers’ Union.”

Eventually this Shearers’ Union grew into the backbone of the organization which became the ALP in Barcaldine in 1892. So Wellshot Station and Ilfracombe are keystone players in our political history.

But geez I’d like to work out just why the original holding was landed with its name.

None of my dictionaries or usage references lists “well shot” whether hyphenated or not. Earliest mention of it I can find is an 1839 anti-Catholic poem in the Sydney Gazette which carries the line, “His mouth’s wellshotted with hard names and curses,” and which I take to mean ‘well rid of ’. All other mentions from the late 1800’s when the Wellshot Station was created, tend to the same meaning.

So why would Buchanan, who first registered this massive holding’s name, decide on a badge indicating it was something he wanted to be ‘well-shot’ of?

Then again, maybe that’s what his lackies exclaimed when he hit 3

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PUB OF THE MONTH

triple 20’s at darts, maybe he had an awesome cover drive, took a stunning photo, or maybe even he was a crack aim at killing roos. Beats me.

Anyway, when the Station was created in 1872 it measured a neat million acres – a bit over 4000 square kilometres, 4 years later it’d expanded to over 4700 sq kms and by 1892 it was running the world’s biggest flock of sheep – a bit under half a million of the buggers.

It was so big that they originally named the town after it but when 44

that changed to Ilfracombe, the pub stayed staunch and kept its moniker.

A lot of the place has shrivelled now, bullied into submission by the soulless and depressing Longreach to the west where the beautiful pubs now stand empty or converted.

The Wellshot Hotel at Ilfracombe still remains, not just surviving, but thriving.

In July 2016, Tracy and Paul were cane farmers at Burdekin, a bit west of Ayr and Tracy came out Longreach way to check out a listed residential

property they thought might suit her mum.

She noticed the Wellshot Hotel, half an hour back toward the coast at Ilfracombe was also on the market so on a whim she dropped in, fell in love with it, and with the idea of owning a pub.

The price was a bit steep so she made an offer and it was accepted. So, she signed the forms and headed back to the sugar cane.

“Paul was hard at it on the tractor and so I took the papers down to him

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and told him I’d bought the pub.”

His response wasn’t exactly “Well shot, eh?” more, “Have you effing thought this through?”

She said she had and that was it.

They now owned their first hotel and pulled their first beers in the first week of October 2016, setting about re-invigorating this historic, landmark pub that was, at that stage a bit tired and run-down.

And it was the customers, the locals, the regulars and the transients who dragged them along.

“When you grow sugar cane you have one customer, the mills. You spend 11 months growing your product and one month cutting it down and you sell it all to the same client. They have the same needs, and the same small set of demands. And very little feedback. But with a pub you have dozens of customers every day and most are different.”

It’s that dynamic with its myriad demands that’re the magnets.

Covid restrictions mean the second bar isn’t operating but I was allowed

in for a squiz. The walls of both bars are covered with old photos, hats and shearing gear. It ain’t tacky cliched rubbish like at, say Daly Waters – there’s more an atmosphere of a place that many decent folks have enjoyed and respected over many years.

In the operating bar there’re two of the five novelty stools that Paul found somewhere in 2016. This pair are covid approved and they host a steady stream of visitors getting photos.

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PUB OF THE MONTH is stockinged legs leading up to a G-stringed pair of cheeks and as I peer over my just delivered burger, I gotta say I’m happy with the buns. (Pun intended) Needless to say, there’s no gambling apart from the ubiquitous Keno, no screaming screens, and no ATM feeding unfortunates doing their dough on machines in the adjoining room. But there is Foxtel for the ‘footy and the country music’.

The ceiling’s covered with drawingpinned 5-, 10-, 20- and 50-dollar notes. All throw-ups here. No cheating and climbing up and sticking in your dough. If you don’t know how to pin

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a pineapple to the ceiling of the pub, they’ll explain it to you, provide the pin and set you loose.

Current charity is Black Dog, a charity dear to Tracy’s heart – she reckons the pub, talking and being with people, is therapy for those on both sides of the bar.

The notes get harvested each year and so far, donations have topped $30,000. Well shit eh!

Generosity of spirit is a long tradition here, coupled with a dash or larrikan.

Back in 1896 a local bloke was charged with using obscene language to, truly, a Salvo lady collecting money

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She’s a beauty, mate!

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F YOU’RE PLANNING A visit to the Qantas Museum or the Hall of Fame at Longreach, this is the place to stay. It would be even if the remaining Longreach pubs weren’t so bloody dire.

It’s quirky but authentic.

Aware of its own history, and enmeshed in its community, it’s obviously a haven for its locals and a welcoming refuge for travellers.

The bar prices are low, and quality of the food is high, the accommodation is all that you can want. Room rates that don’t take account of single riders are a stone in my shoe and the only thing that prevented the Wellshot from rating 5 helmets.

On the unique character scale, of course it rated 100% and value for money was 170 where 100 is good.

Sure, it was fun seeing my book on its shelves but this didn’t affect my ratings or my writings. Put it on your list!

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at the pub. His defence testimony included this gem: “We were having a drink or two in the Wellshot Hotel when the woman came into the bar cadging; neither of us tried to pour gin down her throat; I promised her a shilling for the collection if she drank a glass of beer or gin.”

The Salvo must’ve turned down the offer and that’s when things obviously turned pear-shaped and the fella was charged, fined a quid, and another for resisting and in default 14 days in the lockup. He probably muttered, ‘well, shit eh!’

I grab a beer and on a sunny midweek arvo, head for the side door, past a table with a sort of library of books on country pubs. Featuring is a book by a young promising writer named Colin Whelan whose first book sold out and whose second is due out in August. Well, shit eh!

The door out is blocked by a white calf. Got no idea about political correctness as it relates to bovines but

Snowy’s - well, Snowy’s not the full quid – Tracy reckons he’d never survive out in the paddock due to some um, er, developmental issues. Let’s just leave it at “one teat short of an udder”.

There’s also Sean the sheep and Chops the lamb, Esmeralda the fat-tailed sheep and Kevin the goat.

It’s not quite as wild as the zoo that Garry has at his pubs at Bethanga and Granya on the upper-Murray but you get the idea of the craziness.

Mid-week arvo and the seats are populated by a disparate bunch of families, tourists, a couple of other riders and there’s a hum of good times as tables are hopped, animals fed, and even homework done on one table.

My room’s in the converted and restored shearers’quarters at the back of the pub. A glorious setting with a stunning internal veranda on the edge of the vegetable and flower beds which provide decoration for the bars and ingredients for the chef.

And I park my bike not three metres from the room door.

These rooms (4 doubles and 3 twin singles) have shared bathroom and toilets and will set you back $65 with no discount for a single rider.

There’re also four rooms available in a donga block, all en-suited twin singles at $85 a night for the room.

Down the road there’s a selfcontained duplex which is aimed at families and out the back of the pub there’s plenty of room to chuck a swag or tent for ten bucks a night.

There’re 3 beers, a cider and a ginger beer on tap and all schooners will cost you $6. Stupid cheap!

The full-time chef serves up lunch every day from 12-2 and dinner from 6pm. Out front there’s a coffee hatch that does a roaring trade flogging caffeine, muffins, jaffles and homemade pies to truckies, tradies and travellers from 6am – 8am on the Sabbath.

This is a great pub on so many levels.

When you saddle up after time spent here, you’re going to smile and think, “Well, shit eh - what a ripper pub.” D

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TEAROUTMAP#101

BALLINA TO KYOGLE AND BACK WORDS AND PHOTOS THE BEAR

BALLINA

The ideal base for riding the Northern Rivers forests, Ballina has a variety of accommodation and eating/drinking options, as well as pleasant cafés. It is a bit like the more sane and sensible alternative to Byron Bay. And it’s a lot cheaper, too. But it is more than simply a base. The tourist office will fill you in one the details, but the maritime museum with its balsa raft, the beaches, the water park and the pubs all add up to a destination in its own right. Consider catching the ferry across to South Ballina and checking out the long (unpatrolled) southern beach and the harbour entrance. The Ballina Headlands Holiday Park is run by fellow motorcyclists.

CLUNES

A small hill town with a general store and a café, Clunes is also known for the number of early churches that surround it. No, I don’t know why but if you are intent on catching up on your Christianity this might be the place.

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This is the Macadamia Capital of Australia, a nutty but nice distinction. You can buy all sorts of macadamianised delicacies.

THE CHANNON

I like The Channon, not least for the tables and benches outside the tavern which let you enjoy the passing parade of interesting people. The Channon market happens on the second Sunday of each month and presents a much more interesting variety of the hippies and other counter-cultural folk than NImbin does. It also has shops and galleries, and was the centre of the Terania Creek protests, which gives it historical importance.

NIMBIN

In 1973, the Aquarius Festival set Nimbin on the path to becoming an international-known counterculture hub. Sort of an Australian Woodstock that didn’t close down. These days Nimbin is more like a Disneyland on acid, but not very strong acid.

There are some interesting shops and milkshakes, and if you cannot live any longer without a tie-dyed T shirt this

may be the place where you can score one.

CAWONGLA

There is bugger all at Cawongla except for the shop / café with its amazing access ramp. The coffee is not bad.

KYOGLE

A nice, normal little town that hangs uneasily off the edge of all the weirdness to its east, Kyogle is a good place to refuel and, er, to pick up some tourist literature for the area further inland along the Summerland Way.

UKI

Damn me for offering faint praise, but the new Uki pub is… uh, very nice, really. It’s modern and stylish

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a speed camera installed. It is still there, be warned, or it was when I visited recently. Mooball with its bikethemed petrol station and café is just down the road.

BANGALOW

and could be in any place around the North Coast up to and including Brisbane’s South Bank. It is also popular with motorcyclists. But… well, if it wasn’t replacing the old Uki pub which burned down (an all too common fate of country pubs) I would probably be all in favour of it. As it stands, I keep thinking that the old pub was more… gee, I dunno, genuine and less obviously dedicated to slicing the face off your credit card. This is just me, though, and I suspect that you will have a great time if you drop in. There are also some craft shops and cafés.

STOKERS SIDING

There is only one craft shop here and nothing much else apart from a public toilet block. I have bought many a gift from the shop, which specialises in weird stuff. What does that tell you about me?

BURRINGBAR

The most interesting thing about Burringbar is or are the Burringbar Esses, a spectacular set of corners in what used to be the Pacific Highway before the motorway took over. The esses were also the first place in New South Policestate, sorry, Wales to have

Like a slightly-less-well-off-person’s Byron Bay (you wouldn’t survive here if you were poor), Bangalow is nicer but just as trendy as Big Bay Brother down the road. It is one of the few places apart from the Bay where you might have trouble finding a parking spot, but its slightly lower rents mean that the many hippie souvenir shops are slightly cheaper. Despite all that I like Bangalow.

LENNOX HEAD

And while we’re on the subject of liking, Lennox Head is like a bit of the sophisticated end of everyday Australia dropped into all the ‘differentness’ of the area. I like it; it has a decent pub, nice shops and cafés, the occasional art gallery and, above all, Lake Ainsworth.

This consists of water tinted by the tea-tree swamps behind it, which many people including me find pleasant and therapeutic. Some years it is spoiled by algae, so check first. Hang gliders soar from a headland at the southern end of town. D www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au

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SPECIALFEATURE

Tyres

vertime o g n i k r o w Rubber trees har! e e Y . t n e m y for our enjo

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A GRIPPING AFFAIR COMPILED BY STUART

THE LATEST AND GREATEST TYRES

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YRES CAN BE AN interesting subject – riders usually will have a preferred brand they’ll only ever ride on, or you might have some who will only go for the latest and greatest. Then, you have those who have only ridden on one brand/model of tyre for the last thousand years and will be left in a quandary when that model becomes obsolete. So, what do these types of motorcyclists (and everyone else) do – well, you check out the following latest and greatest we’ve compiled from the distributors who want you to know about their product.

Or, you could bug The Bear (get it?

LOL!) and bombard him with emails asking what type of tyre you should get. He will probably throw those emails at Stuart because sipping a chai latte is probably about the time, he’s received the emails and there’s nothing more important than a morning coffee!

LOL! Not only have we got those round and black things, but Rocky Creek Designs has sent us information on tyre associated products – excellent.

Check them out… www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au

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S P E C I A L F E AT U R E

Tyres

BRIDGESTONE – mcleodaccessories.com.au Battlax Racing Street RS11︱ Fronts from $219.95, Rears from $349.95

The Racing Street (RS) is the flagship tyre of Battlax street application line up, designed for use on public roads. The RS11 is the successor to the RS10, which was standard equipment on numerous flagship motorcycles.

It is a version of the highly regarded Racing R11 for track use, which has been tuned for street riding. Racing Street RS11 takes riding into a higher level with significant improvements in aspects of sports riding, including grip, cornering stability, handling, and contact feel. Feel the evolution for yourself, on winding roads or the track!

Battlax Adventurecross AX41︱ Fronts from $102.95, Rears from $152.95

The Battlax Adventurecross AX41 is Bridgestone’s new Trail Off-Road tyre – available in both Light and Heavy versions. It will let you take on any type of path and allow you to enjoy the ride, even when you go into the unknown! As can be seen in this new pattern’s name, the Battlax Adventurecross AX41 is a real mix of Bridgestone’s know-how in the standard trail on-road category with Battlax technology and the state-of-the-art development capacities of block positioning in the Off-road world with the Battlecross series. The AX41 adopts ingenious block design and positioning to ensure on and off-road performance, durability and stability. Bridgestone’s Battlax Adventurecross AX41 sets a new standard for Trail – Off-road performance.

Battlax Scooter SC︱From $85.95

Looking for tyres to match the performance of your high-powered scooter?

The Battlax Scooter SC delivers the precision handling and stability you need to meet the challenges of city riding. Above all, the Battlax Scooter SC gives you the confidence to push the limits of your scooter on both wet and dry surfaces for a fun ride, whatever your destination. Reduced pattern noise on the front and rear tyre ensures a really efficient and above all comfortable ride on a variety of surfaces.

Battlax B46︱Fronts from $129.95, Rears from $169.95

The Battlax BT46 is set to replace the iconic BT45. Since its introduction 22 years ago, the BT45 has been the go-to tyre for touring. Now, Bridgestone has upgraded this design with modern technology. The Battlax BT46 features an inverted V-shape in the front tread pattern, which tackles working forces on the tyre, reduces irregular wear and gives the rider incredible feedback for superior handling. The rear tyre is enhanced with a newly adapted silica single compound to maximise performance, grip and wear. Wet performance has been upgraded from the BT45, with no impact on the predecessor’s well-known dry handling performance and wear resistance. The BT46 is also compatible with UM application: meaning it is approved for mounting on tube type rims (certain sizes only).

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S P E C I A L F E AT U R E

Tyres

PIRELLI – linkint.com.au Scorpion Rally STR︱ Fronts from $179.95, Rears from $235.95

On/off tyre for adventure riding without limits. Technological innovations provide traction on dirt, stability at high speeds, on-road handling agility and grip in all riding conditions. A new compound, with a high content of silica, offers increased grip on both dry and wet surfaces, stability and a superior resistance to abrasion, increased width and length of the tyre’s contour makes a larger contact patch for better stability, and blocks are longer and wider, and the longitudinal distance between each line of knobs has been reduced to increase the contact patch, without compromising off-road traction. Heat, generated by high speed, is distributed across a wider surface to prevent knob tearing.

Diablo Rosso IV︱Fronts from $199.95, Rears from $209.95

As hot…as hell – the latest supersport tyre for road use. Superb grip while braking, thrust boost in extreme lean angles and brilliant traction exiting the corner. Lightening handlebar response to rider inputs and smooth feedback while cornering, WSBKderived structures and contours, silica-enriched multi-compound for both front and rear tyres and the claimed best performance on road use, on both wet and dry roads.

Diablo Rossa Corsa II︱from $589.95 set

Pirelli’s first multi-compound motorcycle tyre transferring racetrack performance into street versatility. Pirelli technology developed within the World Superbike Championship, featuring a bi-compound solution for the front tyre — applying the two compounds in three different zones, triple compound on the rear distributed in five zones and a new tread pattern design.

“Follow your leanings”.

Angel GT II︱from $539.90 set

The successor of the best long-lasting sport touring tyre, the evolution of the Angel GT further develops the Pirelli Gran Turismo concept. Top handling in line with Pirelli DNA added onto a new reference for mileage in Sport Touring tyres segment, outstanding wet behaviour also thanks to a new innovative tread design coming from Pirelli Diablo racing tyres for wet conditions and there’s a dual compound layout on rears.

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Motopressor Smart Pump︱$169.95

Cordless, rechargeable tyre inflator with built in torch, is ideal for inflating motorcycle tyres, and other vehicles.

It will also inflate pool toys, footballs and charge your electronic device!

You can set/store 4 separate pressures and it will automatically shut off after the pressure is reached.

ROCKY CREEK DESIGNS – rockycreekdesigns.com.au Motopressor Mini Pump with Built in Tyre Gauge︱$94.95

Pre-select your tyre pressure, select PSI, BAR or KPA, switch the pump ON. Once the pump reaches the pre-selected tyre pressure it switches OFF automatically. How easy is that. Comes with all the connectors.

MotoPressor Clip on Valve Extension with Deflation button︱$19.95

Both MotoPressor Pocket and Mini Pumps have a screw on chuck. For the “dexterously challenged”, it can be a pain unscrewing the chuck without losing 1-2 PSI, so the solution is the Clip-on Valve. Screw it into the end of the inflation hose and it becomes a clip-on/clip-off chuck. The deflation button releases air if you over-inflate.

MotoPressor Pocket Pump︱$59.95

Popular amongst adventure riders, this “bare bones” Pump features a screw-on chuck, 2 metre cable length, alligator clips and rings, pumps to 32 psi in under 4 minutes. Packs small into a bag. Draws over 8 Amps at start up then settles to between 5 – 8 Amps once its pumping.

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S P E C I A L F E AT U R E

Tyres

CONTINENTAL – ronangel.com.au Road Attack 3︱Fronts from $229, Rears from $299

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Conti’s Road Attack 3 has won multiple tyre tests – for good reason. Conti’s ‘MultiGrip’ tread makes a gradual transition between the soft/grip compound on the side of the tyre, to the firm/wear compound in the middle of the tyre. It has excellent handling and feedback characteristics, and Conti’s ‘Rain Grip’ compound with active silica provides excellent dry and wet grip, and fast warmup.

KENDA - ctaaustralia.com.au KM1 Road ST Radial︱ Front $149.95, Rears from $199.95

State-of-the-art construction and advanced rubber compound technology combine to create Kenda’s first sport-touring radial.

Optimised apex geometry delivers perfect balance of highspeed stability and lightning-fast turn-in. Proprietary compound claimed to reach target operating temperature faster than competitors. Excellent wet grip and increased siping combine to provide ultimate confidence in adverse conditions. Long-wearing compound promises more miles without sacrificing performance.

METZELER - metzeler.com/en-au Sportec Roadtec 01 SE︱ Fronts from $239.95, Rears from $299.95

Complementing the range of the multiple test winner ROADTEC 01 with a range dedicated to sport tourers, and owners of naked and supersport motorcycles. Improved sporty riding benefits whilst keeping the outstanding sport touring characteristics for mileage and wet conditions. Increased grip in full lean angle thanks to a new slick shoulder. Enhanced handling through new carcass construction.

DUNLOP – ficeda.com.au Mutant︱Fronts from $215, Rears from $254 Mutant is what you might expect: A mutation of unique components that create one of the most versatile street tyres Dunlop has ever produced. Featuring a high-silica compound and deep tread channels provide exceptional performance in wet conditions, MT Multi-Tread in the rear tyre gives the Mutant high mileage for touring and commuting, and the high-grip lateral compounds give the Mutant full sport-tyre capabilities, Jointless Belt (JLB) construction front and rear to provide a more compliant ride and more consistent handling, an aggressive tread pattern with the performance to match in any condition a rider may encounter. The Mutant is available in sizes that fit more than 250 different motorcycle models available.

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ON ROAD. ON TRACK. ON AVONS.

ESTABLISHED 1885

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S P E C I A L F E AT U R E

Tyres

AVON – proaccessories.com.au Spirit ST︱Fronts from $205, Rears from $259

Avon’s latest ultra- high performance hypersport touring tyre with exceptional wet grip performance and mileage. Manufactured in the UK. Highly loaded silica compound combined with state-of-the-art polymer technology for excellent wet and dry traction and handling.

Interlocking three dimensional points hidden in the sipes to improve stability and grip, limit tread flex and allows the tyre to warm up quickly (3D Sipes). Avon’s latest technology construction design gives ultra-high-performance handling and stability characteristics. Multicompound rear tyres for all round tyre performance (TE).

TrailRider︱ Fronts from $169, Rears from $175

Adventure sport tyre, 90% Road 10% Off Road.

Manufactured in the UK. State of the art dual tread compound for superb grip, on- and off-road in both dry and wet conditions.

Ultra-high-performance handling and stability onand off-road.

Storm 3D XM︱ Fronts from $189, Rears from $259

Sports touring tyre for all round performance.

Manufactured in the UK. Specifically designed construction for improved handling and stability, featuring a multi tread compound, great grip and extended mileage, 3D Sipe technology and improved all-round grip.

Cobra Chrome︱ Fronts from $169, Rears from $235

Manufactured in the UK. Available in 54 sizes including 13 size White Walls. The Avon Cobra Chrome offers premium performance and a stylish Cobra themed design. Unique tyre design with detailed aesthetic features, bespoke snake skin appearance and embossed Cobra head logo.

Excellent wet braking and stability, enhanced compounds and new construction delivers improved stopping distance in wet brake testing.

High stability in all conditions delivering precise feel and tyre feedback. Avon’s latest tech pattern and advanced construction produces over a 5% larger tyre footprint compared to the Avon Cobra.

RoadRider MK11︱ Front from $169, Rears from $179

Designed for motorcycles of all ages, the Roadrider MKII provides a step forward in performance and reliability over its predecessor.

Made in the UK. Timeless appearance, cutting-edge performance with aesthetics that suit bikes of all ages. New tyre construction. enhanced handling and stability in both wet and dry conditions. Enhanced sidewall design, reduction in the effect of ozone degradation. Large contact patch for excellent grip at all lean angles.

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TYRES4BIKES tyres4bikes.com.au

All the major brands for all your adventure needs – brought to you by the great folk at Adventure Moto.

Continental TKC80︱ $180 - $319.95

40% on-road and 60% off-road with a compound and wide block tread pattern which deliver optimal on and off-road grip and performance. Excellent braking and traction on a wide range of surfaces from loose to hard pack.

Pirelli Scorpion Rally︱ $169 - $294.95

Specifically for desert racing and rallies and designed for those capable of riding even on unexplored ground, irrespective of the type of surface and the weather conditions.

A specific compound made to resist tears, cuts, abrasion and wear.

Dunlop Trailmax Mission︱$120 - $370

The Dunlop Trailmax Mission is a genuine adventure tyre which claims to delivers knobby-like execution offroad, has amazing hold on the road, producing extraordinary ride quality.

Motoz Tractionator Rallz︱ $169.95 - $329 Metzeler Karoo︱$159.50 - $319

Improved off-road traction and handling, double the road mileage of the previous Karoo without compromising offroad prowess and to top that all off, a cutting-edge tread design lends to improved performance.

RallZ is the most aggressive off-road adventure tyre in the Motoz range. Its DNA is part desert race tyre and part long distance adventure tyre. Get some! D

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POWER IS KNOWLEDGE WORDS & PHOTOS THE BEAR

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YES, I KNOW THAT FRANCIS BACON SAID, “KNOWLEDGE IS POWER”. BUT THAT DIDN’T FIT WITH THE STORY.

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REG MAGUIRE IS THE perfect example of the selfmade Australian entrepreneur.

Considered “small, but tough, resourceful and quite” at school, he boxed at the Armidale Police Boys Club and once lifted 150kg over his head in a clean and jerk. He left school at 15 aqnd worked his way up in several different business endeavours until, in 1985, he bought the site of the old Tamworth powerhouse and created the 60-room Tamworth Powerhouse Hotel. But that wasn’t all.

He added a motorcycle museum.

The Powerhouse Motorcycle Museum is a little different from a lot of other motor museums. While it does include a nod to older bikes, its collection of more than 50 bikes (I’m taking their word for it -- I lost count somewhere along the way when I saw a really spectacular Silver Shotgun Ducati) is primarily devoted to motorcycles from the ‘60s, ‘70s and ‘80s. “Bikes I would have loved to own when they were new,” says Greg.

They might as well be new; they have been restored to an extremely high standard. To be honest, although my memory is not perfect I’d say they are better than new. Fact sheets are provided for each motorcycle and John or one of the other attendants will provide all the information you need.

The museum also has an extensive and unusual range of motorcycle souvenirs for sale.

I stop in every time I pass; in fact I’m considering asking for a multiple user concession… www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au

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T R AV E L

1. No, not everything dates back to Greg’s youth.

This pair from Bologna has not been restored either.They’re as-new instead.

2. I think this is one of the original 17 Honda 4s that came to Australia. Ask John to confirm that.

3. I nearly dumped one of these all those many years ago during a roll-on and brake comparo with a Katana.Thank heavens I didn’t.

4. Pity I couldn’t get a better shot of this Silver Shotgun.When the talk turns to Singles, these are inevitably at or near everyone’s list.

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5. What’s an MZ? If you have to ask you don’t deserve to know a marque with a truly astounding racing history.

6. A row of Ducatis, containing dream bikes for every taste.

7. Did Birmingham Small Arms really paint as bike in iridescent green? I sincerely hope they did, because the result is mesmerizing.

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15 November - 04 December 2021 14 November - 03 December 2022

Adventure rides and tours around the globe

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T R AV E L

1. What other brand can match the lines of Taglioni’s Ducatis, no matter what the angle is from which you look at them?

2. Here’s John, the fount of all knowledge about the collection – and more!

3. An impressive lineup of Nortons, possibly an omen for the successful future of the brand.

4. No, it’s not a 911, it’s a 996 – even rarer and more desirable.

5. There’s that iridescent BSA again.There are a couple other bikes in the lineup that have been painted in colours that seem unlikely – see if you can identify them.

6. I sincerely doubt that this Triumph looked that good when it left the factory. Greg has the restorations done at a bespoke workshop in Tamworth

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Power for the People

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I have not identified the bikes in the photos, because I’m bound to get at least a couple wrong! Go and see them for yourself, please – it really is a must-see like few others. The Powerhouse Motorcycle Museum at 250 Armidale Road, New England Highway, Tamworth NSW 2340 is open 7 days, from 9am to 5pm. It is closed Christmas Day. Motorcycle and car clubs can request longer opening times for special events.

The showroom is air conditioned with wheelchair access, and there is plenty of free parking outside.

Admission is $8 adult, $6 pensioner, $4 child and $16 family.There’s complimentary tea and coffee. www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au

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THE BEST OF MOROCCO ! t n i o j

s i h t k c o r Let’s

Book your spot.

Now! EDELWEIS S BIKE TR AVEL SPORTPL ATZWEG 14 6414 MIE MING / A USTRIA PH: +43 5 264 5690 EDELWEIS SBIKE.CO M

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READER’S TOUR

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DELWEISS BIKE TRAVEL IS keen to get an Australian Motorcyclist magazine readers tour on the go and boy have they started strong. Rockin’ Morocco is the place and all we need to hope is international travel opens up shortly.

This will be a trip not to be missed.

This 14 day trip to Morocco includes places that are not on the normal Edelweiss Morocco tour, so we all get something special for joining it.

The ‘Best of Morocco’ tour will be held from 24 October to 6 November 2021. Not only that, but we have organised an annual readers tour from now on. So, get your interest registered with the folk at Edelweiss and let’s get there and have an awesome time!

Riding level

As you can imagine, Morocco has dirt roads, so please bear in mind that your experience level should high enough to be able to manage riding on dirt roads.

We’re told the degree of difficulty is not beyond any normal rider who has ridden on a dirt road. If you haven’t, you’ve got time to do it before the tour.

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Best of Morocco (Tour code: SPT21027) 24 October 2021 – 06 November 2021 14 days/13 nights – 12 riding days

Day 1 Arrival in Marrakech Day 2 Marrakech to Essaouira Day 3 Essaouira to Agadir Day 4 Agadir (rest day) Day 5 Agadir to Tizourgane Day 6 Tizourgane to Foum Zguid Day 7 Foum Zguid to Mhamid Day 8 Mhamid to Zagora / Agzd Day 9 Zagora / Agzd to Boumalne Dades Day 10 Boumalne Dades to Ait Ben Haddu Day 11 Ait Ben Haddu (rest day) Day 12 Ait Ben Haddu to Taroudannt Day 13 Taroudannt to Marrakech Day 14 Departure from Marrakech Highlights • • • • • • • •

All the highlights of Marrakech The old town of Essaouira Agadir and the Atlantic beaches Ride through the dessert Camp in the dessert Wadis and oasis The gorges Todra and Dades The ancient town of Ait Ben Haddu

• • • •

Two times crossing the Atlas Mountains Riding the Atlas and Antiatlas mountains The most spectacular pass Tizi n Test Fantastic food, Berber culture, etc.

Daily distance 175-330 km

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Included services •

All overnights (comfortable middle-class hotels, oriental kashbahs and riads) during entire tour Breakfast every day 2 picnics/lunches 13 dinners Motorcycle rental with unlimited mileage Third party liability insurance for motorcycles Comprehensive vehicle insurance for motorcycles with deductible according to the booked motorcycle model

• • • • • •

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•

• • •

Tour information package in English or German including safety tips, details about the hotels, the route and the sights English and German speaking tour guide on motorcycle Support van for luggage transportation Edelweiss Riding Tips

Optional services

Optional deductible reduction on included motorcycle insurance (Cover All / Cover Plus)

Services not included

All services not mentioned and all items of a personal nature.

Please note

This group tour is not suitable for people with limited mobility.

Terms and conditions

Edelweiss terms and conditions can be found at edelweissbike.com/en/ reisebedingungen.php. D

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Tour price per person in USD Price for a Rider in a Double Room

The Bear S

ays

THIS IS N OT ONLY A WONDER FUL TOUR , BUT THE COST IS VE RY REASONA BLE.

Motorcycle Category 1: BMW G 310 Gs, BMW G 310 R, Honda NC 750 S, Honda NC 750 S DCT, Honda NC 750 X, Honda NC 750 X DCT, Suzuki Vstrom 650, Yamaha Tracer 700

USD 5980

Motorcycle Category 2: BMW F 750 Gs (Lsp), Yamaha Tenere 700

USD 6120

Motorcycle Category 3: BMW F 850 Gs, BMW F 900 R, BMW F 900 Xr, Ducati Monster 821, Ducati Multistrada 950, Honda CRF 1100 L Africa Twin, Honda CRF 1100 L Africa Twin Dct, Suzuki Vstrom 1050 Xt, Triumph Tiger 900 Rally Pro, Yamaha Tracer 900

USD 6340

Motorcycle Category 4: BMW R 1250 Gs, BMW R 1250 Gs (Lsp), BMW R 1250 R, BMW R 1250 Rs, BMW S 1000 Xr, Ducati Monster 1200, Ducati Multistrada 1260 S, Triumph Tiger Explorer, Yamaha Super Tenere

USD 6560

Motorcycle Category 5: BMW R 1250 Gs Adv, BMW R 1250 Rt

USD 6770

Price for a Passenger in a Double Room

USD 3990

Single Supplement

USD 590

Minimum Number of Participants: 8

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Rip it up!

TURBO DUCATI DIAVEL WORDS AND PHOTOS PICKO

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O TURBO OR NOT to turbo.

That is a question not many people ask. Let us be thankful that some do.

Some people, (not many, mind you), simply do not find a Ducati Diavel’s prodigous torque enough for every occasion. Blake loved his Diavel but it wasn’t enough. He’s a mountain of a man and wanted more, as we all do at some stage. Turbo charging his big Ducati was always on the cards, and

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after a bit of ‘encouragement’ he was all in.

“I first saw the late Scott Windsor’s gen one turbo Diavel down at S&R Pro about two to three years ago, and thought it was mad,” said Blake.

“I purchased my Diavel in July 2015 new from Frasers Lidcombe with the upgraded wheels, Termis, mirrors and frame plugs. The thought of turbo-ing was always in the back of my mind as I was thinking about turbocharging

my previous bike, a 2008 extended swingarm Yamaha R1, but Jamie from S&R Pro talked me out of it. I was talking to Jamie about cams and computers for the Diavel and Jamie told me you still won’t be happy with it, so I said ‘fuck it we should just turbo it’. I went home and told the wife what I wanted to do, got the green light and it was on, time to strip the bike down.”

The Diavel was the perfect bike for

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Small and compact weighing 583g and measuring 14cm height x 8cm width x 4cm depth

Cordless Re-chargeable tyre inflator

Pumps a 190/60 tyre in just 4 minutes!

This little beauty is ideal for inflating motorcycle tyres, RV, car and bicycle tyres. It will also inflate pool toys, footballs and charge your phone or electronic device!

Built-in torch with 3 functions: On, Flashing and SOS Comes with a sturdy zippered EVA bag

Blake, as being a big bloke, sports bikes made the riding experience painful. Buying a Diavel was a bit of a leap of faith but he’s found it does everything pretty well, it turns and stops much better than just about any other cruiser style bike out there, and you can cruise on it for hours on end without being crippled.

It pumps from 3-120PSI and is accurate within +/- 1.5 PSI. Set and store 4 separate pressures and it will automatically shut off after the pressure is reached.

Use the supplied USB cable to re-charge your inflator. Can be recharged from most USB outlets and charge time is between 3-5 hours depending on the state of your battery.

Available through Rocky Creek Designs and all good motorcycle stores through Pro Accessories

On the bench

Blake went to Jamie Bezzina from www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au AM0721.indd 77

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Custom specs Custom Microtech computer Bazzaz Zifi TC computer with quick shifter Gt3582r bb turbocharger Auto meter boost guage Koso wideband air fuel ratio meter Tial 38mm gate and bov VDO oil scavenge pump GSX-R1000 extra injectors S&R PRO Custom Made: Header pipes Intake pipe Dump pipe Gate pipe Plenum chamber Fuel system Fuel rails Fuel lines Oil supply and return from turbo Custom tuning S&R Pro in western Sydney, as Jamie is one of the best known motorcycle turbo tuners in Australia, and had already done a Diavel conversion.

There was no need to split the cases on this engine, all internal engine parts are stock, with all modifications done externally to the fuel system, plenum, computers, headers, and oil system.

“I chose Jamie from S&R Pro (02 4732 2203), simply because he has a wealth of knowledge with custom turbo bikes and his attention to detail with his fabrication work and tuning is simply second to none, no one comes close to this guy, he went above and

beyond my expectations and I am a very fussy guy. The build is a credit to his work,” said Blake.

The build went fairly smoothly but whenever you are involving outside suppliers there can be holdups.

“The hardest part to get was the wastegate and BOV (boost controller) from Tial in the states, the Bazzaz and custom Microtech computer were also like a month wait as well,” said Blake.

“Jamie custom fabricated everything in house, with polishing of the dump pipe and compressor housing handled

by Dave and Mel in Penrith. Comp Coatings in Granville ceramic coated

Ducati parts Ducati Performance forged wheels Ducati Performance mirrors

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CUSTOM

Owner profile NAME: Blake AGE: 32 How long have you been into bikes? About four years, into cars before that.

What other bikes have you owned? A Ducati Monster 659, Yamaha R1.

What other bikes would you like to own? A Ducati Desmosedici one day.

What other interests do you have other than motorcycling? Weight training, F1, MotoGP. Special thanks to:

the header pipes and turbo exhaust housing. Over 200 hours of labour went into this bike. This all went smoothly,” added Blake.

“A special moment for me was seeing it all mocked up with the turbo in place, because I knew how cool it was going to look when finished. You are looking around $20,000 to build this bike, due to the tremendous amount of labour that goes into it. Nothing in this build is simply ‘off the shelf ’, most of it is one-off stuff. It’s a lot of money but it gives me the biggest smile on my face,” Blake added.

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It’s one thing to rock the socks off people who look at the bike but does it do the same when you ride it?

“It is an absolute torque monster, putting out around 280Nm at the wheel, more than double a standard Diavel, which is known for its torque.

“The acceleration is just stupid, you can accelerate in top gear at 120 km/h and it just smokes the back tyre with traction control on! I love it,” added Blake, obviously happy with his turbo journey. Blake had a turbo itch to scratch, and finally bit the bullet, a 50cal bullet, with this Diavel. D

•

S&R PRO 02 4732 2203 Jamie and Brian for all their work

•

DucPen, Scott Williams for his assistance

•

Tint and Protect 02 9894 9824 for the clear vinyl wrap protection

•

Comp Coatings in Guildford for the ceramic coating

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Metal polishing by Dave and Mel in Penrith

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Scotty for his detailing work

•

My wife Mel for letting me do this

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HARLEYDAVIDSON LIVEWIRE WORDS AND PHOTOS STUART

Feel the power flow Mr Heavy Hands gets close and personal with H-D’s electric wonder

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TEST

W

E GOT OUR HANDS back on the Harley-Davidson Livewire, having previously ridden it at the Aussie launch. It was a good chance to do our own type of riding on it and give it a workout in real world conditions without being told which setting we could ride on.

Taking off from H-D headquarters I had around 35km back to my house – plenty of charge in the ‘tank’ so I bung it in Sport mode and gave it handfuls of throttle to see how much charge would be zapped out of it.

About 50km came off the indicated range of 190km, but this was all set to change…

I tried to use the Livewire for as much daily riding use as I could, which ended up being mostly within 100-120km round trip. I did take one trip to Pie in the Sky on the Old Pacific Highway north of Sydney and after a couple of blasts down the hill and back I just made it home with an indicated range of 15km left.

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A funny story while I was at Pie in the Sky. The Livewire attracts huge amounts of interest wherever it’s ridden and the large swarm of other motorcyclists gathered around it who were all cursing at an electric bike being there, and so it went on. I too have never been a fan of electric vehicles, but there you go: once you’ve ridden the Livewire you’ll understand that it is intoxicating.

I walked over to the crowd around the Yellow Fuse Livewire and listened for a minute or so to all the crap people were going on about. Then I piped up and said for everyone to get their money out and I’d race each and every one of them ‘up the hill’ from the Hawkesbury, and all of a sudden the mob went quiet. All of their negative comments were for nothing; not one person dared take on and get shown a size 14 up their clacker. I said, “cat got your tongues now?” Still silence…

Despite being a little heavyweight

compared to its tiny size, the Livewire handles just great. Yes, it will need a little manhandling to get it to turn just perfectly, but any motorcycle with a bit of weight will require this. I did back the front preload off a little to help get it to turn a bit faster which really helped.

Apart from using Sport mode, I tended to use Range mode quite a bit during my time with the Livewire.

It has much softer bottom end acceleration yet is strong enough to give you a thrill. I set up the Custom A mode with everything turned off – regeneration and so on, with full power. It made the Livewire a damn fun bike to be on. Turn traction control off and you can (most of the time) give it full throttle straight from standstill without it flipping and just zipping! Remember, this bike will require you to have a bit of muscle strength as constant full throttle hits from standstill certainly give the stomach muscles a proper workout. A

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Specs HARLEY-DAVIDSON LIVEWIRE

PRICE: $49,995 (ride away) WARRANTY: Five years, unlimited distance SERVICING INTERVALS: Every 12 months MOTOR: Internal Permanent Magnetic Synchronour Motor with Water Jacket Cooling POWER: 78kW TORQUE: 116Nm TRANSMISSION: ‘Twist and Go’, belt final drive bit less time spent in the gym.

Charging time is the major downside to owning an electric vehicle but I found if I planned my route correctly and aimed to be back home with just enough charge, riding the Livewire fitted in well enough for suburban riding. Charge times varied slightly depending on how much juice was left, but nine to ten hours was the normal.

If you’re out and about you can plug it into one of the public fast chargers for a one hour full charge.

Here’s something interesting. The indicated range after each ride got less and less after a full charge and worked its way down to the high 140km range – something I was a little concerned about. But discussing this with the Harley-Davidson tech yielded the information that this is totally normal.

With someone riding it heavy handed (err, well…) the computers will detect this and display a lesser range, whereas if you ride it with a much gentler twist of the wrist the range will go up

from the 190km it showed when I first picked it up. The 190km is about the normal range they’ve seen. We must see how The Bear goes with it, considering his careful right wrist. The tech told me of one Harley employee who had a regular range of 250km or thereabouts, and this is about the highest they’ve seen from a Livewire so far.

Harley-Davidson’s Livewire is not going to be the bike for everyone.

It is very much (at this stage) for a minority, putting it mildly – Harley know this and they’re totally fine knowing that Livewire sales will be small. They made this bike as a statement and to be an early advertisement for electric technology.

I say, if you’ve got the money to purchase one, go and take one for a test ride. I’ll bet you buy it – just put it in Sport, turn the traction off and twist your right wrist as quick as you can. Hold on, ‘cause it’s intoxicating, and just let that electricity flow. D

SUSPENSION: Front, 43mm inverted fork, adjustable preload, compression and rebound, travel 115mm. Rear, monoshock, adjustable preload, compression and rebound, travel 115mm.

DIMENSIONS: Seat height 780mm, weight 251kg (ready to ride), wheelbase 1490mm TYRES: Front, 120/70/ZR17. Rear, 180/55/ZR17 BRAKES: Front, twin 300mm discs with radial four-piston ABS calipers. Rear, 300mm disc, twinpiston ABS caliper.

BATTERY CONSUMPTION: 145 – 190km COLOURS:Vivid Black,Yellow Fuse, Orange Fuse VERDICT: Embrace the new addiction

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YOU MUST APOLOGISE TOUR LEADER MIKE FERRIS AND HIS TEAM WERE A VERY SORRY LOT INDEED WORDS MIKE FERRIS ︱ PHOTOS WORLD ON WHEELS

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T R AV E L

T

HE BHUTANESE ARE A very polite people. Incredibly polite, and extremely courteous, especially when it comes to dealing with foreign tourists. It’s considered rude to point a finger in public for example, so they will indicate a direction or a person with an extended upturned palm with the thumb tucked neatly in, rather than with an impolite digit. They will only pass or receive food or money with the right hand, never the left. Anybody they don’t know personally is always addressed as Sir or Madam.

I had a large-ish group with me in Bhutan including Peter and Kay Forwood, globetrotting two-wheeled legends, on their equally legendary Harley-Davidson. This Aussie couple had taken off in 1995 to go and explore a bit of the world on their 1300cc Electra Glide. And they just kinda forgot to go home. About eight years later, they tallied up their number of countries visited and were surprised to discover they had already ridden about 75% of the world’s official 194 countries.

Suddenly they had a very realistic chance at becoming the first couple ever to visit every single country on the planet, so this now became a new goal.

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To do it on a motorcycle was even more of an achievement, and to do so on a Harley-Davidson ElectraGlide is the stuff of legend indeed. They subsequently went on to establish the world-first of riding in every country on the planet, and are duly recognised in the Guinness Book of World Records.

Some countries presented logistical problems to get to because of distance and remoteness; for example there are many very small island nations in the Pacific Ocean where there was no option but to freight the bike in purely so they could ride it for a day or two and then freight it out again. Other countries such as North Korea offered obvious political limitations and restrictions, but they managed to ride even there with a heavy military escort, when word of their famous Harley peregrinations reached high places.

Bhutan has a strict policy of no independent travel and so, much against their preferred method of being completely self-sufficient, Peter and Kay concluded they had no alternative but to join a Government-approved commercial riding group and they were delighted to find an Australian operator offering just such a tour. I was somewhat bemused by an email

request from a couple wanting to bring their own bike (a Harley!) to tackle the difficult roads and conditions of Bhutan. The ElectraGlide is a monstrously heavy bike with low ground clearance, and Bhutan’s roads are of course um… well, let’s just say, they are built and ‘maintained’ by the Indian Army. But I said Yes, why not, we’ll add a Harley to the mix.

So when our group gathered for the first meet’n’greet in the small Indian town of Siliguri at the start of the tour, we went to the hotel’s basement carpark where there were 12 nice shiny Enfields lined up with military precision. Right on the agreed rendezvous time, there was a thunderous roar like a MIG fighter jet smashing the sound barrier, and into the concrete basement swung Peter and Kay mounted on something perhaps best described as an early model Cumbersome.

It was huge and black and foreboding, with fairings and panniers and a quarter-acre screen and enough luggage to fit out a Salvation Army store. Any interest in my formal briefing quickly dissipated as everyone took in this wondrous spectacle, particularly the panniers whereon the names of all the countries visited

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Who is behind World on Wheels

WOW is Australia’s oldest motorcycle tour operator, and one of the world’s earliest two-wheeled touring pioneers. Commencing as Ferris Wheels in 1994 with a single crossing of the highest road in the world, the 5600m Khardung La in the Himalaya, the business has expanded to now encompass a dozen diverse tours covering more than 30 different countries. CEO Mike Ferris has now ridden that same Khardung La road 58 times in 26 years, and in this Year of Covid is in the process of completing a book which chronicles his quarter of a century professionally on the road.

This column is an extract from the forthcoming book. The Covidenforced layover from international touring has also given Mike the opportunity to complete a comprehensive Instructor’s course and he is now a fully qualified Riding Instructor.

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s Yaks ‘isnoneYoef ti several

Yaks ‘n’ Yetis

thus far had been neatly painted out in rows; 175 was the tally up to this point.

A few days later, we were entering Bhutan’s second-largest ‘city’ of Paro; more of a big town really than a city.

Each town has its own magnificent dzong, a huge stone fortress which is both the seat of local legislative power and a Buddhist learning centre (i.e. monastery).

On the outskirts of town I spotted an archery competition taking place in a field, so I pulled over and waved the

On group in behind English for some in the World regular tours out ck he C . me. We parked reason, possibly lio fo rt po Wheels tour on the side of the for our benefit.

She at te the websi s road and hopped holstered the radio, ur to s. el WorldOnWhe through the wire turned to address the fence to watch the group, straightened country’s traditional out her tunic a little, sport, which is always stood tall, and pronounced performed wearing National Dress. our punishment: ‘You must It is played with much gusto and all come to the Police Station and good-natured heckling, and whenever apologise to my Superintendent’. somebody scores a bullseye, the whole One of our riders started giggling, assembly quite literally breaks into until I silenced him with a glare. a little song and dance routine to At least, I hoped it was something celebrate; they intone a deep, solemn approaching a glare; I was trying chant to the gods while dancing a awfully hard to stifle my own mirth at series of choreographed steps, and this turn of events. finish with a flourish and a vocal yelp ‘Okay,’ I solemnly addressed the to the skies. It’s all very entertaining to group, ‘you heard the Officer. We shall observe. all please follow this good lady to the So we took this in for 15 or 20 Police Station’. minutes and then returned to our She smartly mounted her own little bikes, whereupon we were confronted motorcycle, which I couldn’t help by a rather unamused-looking lady notice was parked illegally alongside police officer. Who is your leader all of ours, and our little convoy please, she wanted to know, and I headed off like a bunch of recalcitrant ‘fessed up it was I. She wanted to schoolkids following the teacher to the know why we had completely ignored Headmaster’s office. the No Parking sign directly beneath Headmaster was waiting for us in which my motorcycle sat, looking the quadrangle as we rode in, and now rather guilty. I tried to explain he was gently slapping the side of that we hadn’t actually parked, we had his trouser leg with a bamboo cane. merely stopped for a moment Madam, For a moment I seriously wondered to observe your wonderful National if we might be subjected to corporal Sport, Madam. In your splendid punishment, but as I took off my National Dress. Madam. helmet and approached him he She wasn’t having any of it. ‘You greeted me with a polite smile and have all committed a serious offense a handshake. I explained that in against my government’ she scolded our excitement of discovering an the gathered group. ‘I cannot simply exhibition of the National Sport (in turn a blind eye. There will be a National Dress), we had inadvertently penalty to pay,’ said she, pulling out disregarded the No Parking sign Sir, her charge book. and for this transgression, we wished ‘Madam’, I appealed, ‘perhaps you to sincerely apologise. Sir. can be lenient on this occasion, for we He was gracious but he didn’t let us are foreign tourists who are unaware off scott-free. He gave us a brief lecture of your, er, customs and … ways. It is on the importance of maintaining just our second day in your beautiful law and order in a small developing country’. nation, and these laws were in place She hesitated, then said, ‘I must not only for the benefit of locals, consult with my senior officer’ and but for visitors also, regardless of I smelt a small whiff of victory. She nationality. pulled out her radio, and chatted for ‘Yes Sir. Of course Sir. I shall ensure a while in Bhutanese to someone back it never happens again Sir’ I groveled, at the station, nodding once or twice reminding myself of the patronizing even though I was pretty sure the radio Sir Humphrey Appleby in Yes Minister. did not have a video component.

Suitably chastised, we rode off with She nodded a final time, and said, tails between our legs in search of our ‘Thank you Sir. Over and out’ in hotel. D www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au

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LONGTERMERS

ROYAL ENFIELD WORDS AND PHOTOS RALPH LEAVSEY-MOASE

0 5 6 INTERCEPTOR Y

OU KNOW HOW THE first days of a romance go? Equal parts excitement and showering your new love interest with every conceivable gift and an exceptional amount of totally dedicated time!

There is usually no holding back even though on reflection it might have been better to drip-feed out the love.

After a few years you would be lucky to get leftovers, a picnic and maybe a beer or wine to savor the moment.

Our new 650 Interceptor is still in the very early stages of us following our hearts and not our heads. We are getting carried away (again) with ourselves here. Firstly, the gleaming ‘Dust and Glitter‘ had to be uncrated and pre-delivered. The good folk at Surfside Garage up on the northern beaches (Syd NSW) helped with the uncrating of the ultra-shiny 650, gave it the once over and registration-plated the mild-mannered LAMS twin.

The usual plan with a long termer

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is to slowly build up and change a stock motorcycle by enhancing it with many aftermarket accessories, as well as those from the manufacturer, to not only improve the looks but the package itself. It is a great way to give equipment a real-world work out and can save you a lot of frustration if we go down the wrong fork in the road. We certainly have done that occasionally over the years!

As with almost any motorcycle in our hands, it doubles as a traveling office, so we started with some eminently practical things and fitted those first.

SW-Motech was the first brand we looked at. Their ‘Legend’ range suits the retro-style of the Interceptor perfectly. Their soft luggage mounts up on the easy-to-install racking system. The bags themselves have an elegant but rugged look of strong cotton, which is actually a coated canvas sailing material. The Napalon

synthetic leather in brown sets this off beautifully. The bags also come supplied with waterproof inners. The closing system works well and relies on you rolling down the top edge and securing it tight fore and aft.

There are two sizes available, and Petra from Motorrad Garage recommended the smaller 9.8L items to guarantee good clearance from the upswept mufflers. On shopping duties, I can stuff an amazing amount of crap in them and the celery sticks out the top. They are super easy to remove with a one-click and detach movement. I use the small magnetic tank bag whenever I’m carrying a camera and it also holds my mobile phone as well as keys and sunnies.

The Ventura brabd bag and rack need almost no introduction. They have always been our go-to for ideal gear-carrying equipment. I run the EVO-12 Jetstream or the EVO-40, depending on my needs. The Jet Stream

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TECHNICAL

provided engine and transmission, the R 50 donated the frame and running gear) turned out to be useful but never really ideal; for a start the Ural sidecar was too heavy. I didn’t build the perfect outfit until I matched a Yamaha Bolt to a replica Steib chair. Still, the Beemer outfit covered a lot of miles and was a lot of fun. I don’t seem to be able to find any photos, so you’ll have to settle for one of the Bolt.

ANDY STRAPZ andystrapz.com

Avduro Panniers – $475

RALPH - KTM SUPERDUKE / BMW R 1200 GS

DRIRIDER Split Decision

dririder.com.au

I owned both in the late 2000s and Touring 2 Panniers – $199.95 these bikes meant different things for 600D Ripstop construction featuring universal fit expandable soft side bags (18–31L capacity), Velcro fitting and attachment straps, extra side compartments, heat resistant base in case of accidental contact with the exhaust, includes PE boards for shape retention, equipped with rain cover and shoulder strap, anti–scratch non–slip material on inner side and reflective strip for night safety.

The name Avduro nods its lid to the mix of Enduro and Adventure.

Since their inception in 2003 Andy Strapz panniers have evolved in line with the demands of modern Adventure riders.

Made in Australia from their tried and crashed, 17oz Aussie, Dynaproofed canvas, they are packed (pun intended, sorry) with new approaches to the existing features.

The basics of the pannier bags remain unchanged from those Andy made for himself all that time ago. If it ain’t broke…

Although the basics stood the test of time and Aussie riders, that doesn’t mean the nice little extras can’t be tweaked and improved such as what you’ll find with the Avduro.

Scoota Bagz – $74

Navigator Mini Tank Bag Magnetic – $59.95

A small courier style, shoulder bag with an external flap. A very neat size to carry on the bike.

Designed to fit an A4 The retail pricing sized file, Andy’s Scoota for the products Bagz are constructed from 1000–denier is particularly practical and despite its better against shiny engine me and balance my riding.

Boththe bikes I bought SW Motech Panniers $556 (jargon for bloody tough) with waterproof outward appearance holds a full-face cases and (VEREX, on Korda nylonMounting without teststainless riding, and placedmore an order Frames Kit $306 backing and brown oil–less oilskin, a combination of both! helmet. The EVO-40 in combination thosetointheir #102) full exhausts. prior arriving in Australia. It’s Tank bag and phone holder: $211 Functional and handsome enough for everyday use Scoota with the SW-Motech gear can handle a proof Next we put a ‘rock onBoth STUARTProtection – BMW the RBarsz 1200 GS thatmonth marketing hype works! $460 features two external with dividers under the front week away from the office easily. her finger’ freedom and go bling mad, as -- pockets Water-Cooled Magic represented in every sense Ventura Rack and EVO-12 $439 flap and insidekit, the bag, rear–mounted handle, angled Engine protection bars by SWwell as fitting DNA air filter performance oran travel, wheelstanding or Motech were easy to fit and look the biz. Featheright clutch cable and the Verex shoulder strap for optimal And aBMW ruggedhave two–pretty Let itcomfort. be known, chugging through the countryside. Both I went for the anodized black treatment exhaust. inch side–mounted release clip for helmet–on removal. much always held amazing new bike were instrumental in consolidating their

600D Ripstop construction featuring a non–slip anti–scratch base, strong magnets for secure holding, includes waist strap and is sized at 180x130x30 – great for carrying phone, wallet, money and/or cards.

Costs

The 2010s

rather than the chrome ones, chasing a

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The romance goes on! D

brands in their respective markets.

launches and the introduction of the

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READER’STRAVEL

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SCHMOKIN’ GOOD WORDS & PHOTOS BOB WOZGA

“OUR HAPPIEST MOMENTS AS TOURISTS ALWAYS SEEM TO COME WHEN WE STUMBLE UPON ONE THING WHILE IN PURSUIT OF SOMETHING ELSE.” LAWRENCE BLOCK

T

HE EARLY MORNING SUN creates long shadows in the fields as two hot air balloons drift in the breeze above Cobbitty, and the traffic is surprisingly light along the Northern Road and through the Blue Mountains. The air has that freshness of a May morning that bites into your face and tells you winter is near.

With plenty of time to spare before the 9am rendezvous at Lithgow, I stop at Mitchel Ridge Lookout to stretch my legs. The valley below is shrouded in fog looking like a sea of white contained by sandstone cliffs.

Meeting the rest of the lads at Lithgow, after a cup of coffee and toasted sandwich we have a quick inspection of the transport. Rod’s NT Deauville, Craig’s ST1300, Phil’s V-Strom 1050, Jim’s restored HJ panel van, Peter’s Subaru and my DR650 are loaded and ready to go.

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ride or what distance you want to travel. It is what you are comfortable with.

Just as the bike you choose to ride is about comfort, so too is motorcycle camping and what you pack for a trip on the open road. For some riders, it is travelling with the essentials, for others they take what they think they will need. By doing a few weekend trips on your own, you sort out what you feel comfortable taking if, and when you plan longer on longer journeys.

Travelling with a group allows you to see what works for others and what you can improve on to make your own trip more comfortable.

With the planned trip to Broken Hill in the new year, not all the lads have camped with their bikes let alone camped since their misspent youth.

Nor have they been west of Dubbo.

So, a weekend to Black Springs south of Oberon is organised to test our camping gear, sort out what we need compared to what we want to take. Basically, what each of us is comfortable with.

I like to pack my bike with what I would take on a weekend bushwalk.

Hiking tent, sleeping bag, mattress, groundsheet, 360° gas stove and pot set, torch, metal cup, knife, fork and spoon.

Tea, coffee and sugar. 2 x 1.25ml bottles of water and a camp chair.

Food – A satchel of soup and fruit for dinner. A can of beans and bread rolls for breakfast. Lunch is usually bought on the road and muesli bars for a snack. Other supplies can be bought from local IGAs when traveling through towns. Depending on where I go, I sometimes take a fishing rod with lures and foil to cook the fish when caught.

Clothes - spare pair of socks, underwear, spare pair of jeans and change of shirt, sweatshirt and sneakers, wet weather gear. To save space, I roll clothes together (for example), roll a clean pair of socks and underwear in a clean shirt or jeans.

Standard toiletries and camp towel.

Tools – minimum tools required to repair a flat tyre, compressor, tyre pressure gauge, spare fuses, spark plug.

I pack only spanners that fit the nuts and bolts of the bike, screwdrivers.

Insulation tape, a multi tool and a couple of cable ties. Essentially, the minimal tools to do running repairs.

A hatchet to cut branches for a fire. A charger for my phone and a camera.

I’m old school – I like to take paper maps with me. I find they give a better picture of alternative routes if detours need to be made and don’t fail if the battery goes flat.

These are items I feel comfortable taking on my bike and I have been taking them for some time. The only thing I would change for a week or longer ride is to use a large dry bag instead of my top box. Other people will feel more comfortable taking more equipment, some will take less. The major change we all agreed on was refining how we pack our equipment to save space and better access to things we may need when stopped on the side of the road, for example getting to wet weather gear easily.

Gliding past Lake Lyall and rolling over the hills through Sodwalls into

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Tarana the bikes are doing what they are designed to do… put you in a Zen frame of mind. It also helps when the landscape you are riding through looks like a Walter Withers painting. A handful of bikes is already parked out the front of Tarana Pub. A quintessential country pub, it has an easy atmosphere with an ample beer garden overlooking the valley and train station. The publican tells us that trade has increased since Covid-19 as he pours liquid gold from the tap since more people are doing day trips exploring the region.

Heading south, amber trees shoulder the road in the autumn light while sheep graze beside the Fish River.

Entering O’Connell, we see six Jensens proudly parked in front of the bustling pub. It is rare to see a Jensen these days let alone six in one place.

None of them had the “1 ST” plates of Simon Templar, I guess covid has stopped everyone’s travels. As much 96

as the Jensens were an icon of British motor engineering the 1960s, people are still drawn to Jim’s HJ Panel Van. The nostalgia of a panel van, Bathurst and Holden all meld together and bring back memories of a simpler time. There is not much in O’Connell, however, the road from Lithgow through Tarana to Bathurst is fantastic and the burgers at the O’Connell Hotel are well worth the ride.

In Oberon, fuel tanks are filled, and supplies are bought. You don’t necessarily need to carry all your food from home and buying supplies in country towns also helps their economy. Stopping at Lake Oberon to scout out the camping ground for future trips and see if trout are biting, a few happy campers have their fires going and anglers patiently wait for a bite on the lakeshore. Being a dam, you can fish there all year round.

The amenities are basic with public toilets and BBQs, camping is free.

Unfortunately, Rod did not catch a fish for his or our dinner.

The campground at Black Springs is very basic, toilets provided and one or two picnic tables. Camping is free and it backs onto the pine forest giving it a European feel. During April and May, the forest is alive with people foraging for pine mushrooms. The forest is also popular with fossickers looking for sapphires and you can spend a whole day exploring the forest tracks.

The following morning, comparing notes on which mattresses are better, whether a 2 or 3-man tent is better, what gas stove is better. We all agreed it is important to buy quality equipment. For example, tents that have lined stitching, so they don’t leak in a storm and are easy to assemble and repack. It still comes back to – what you feel most comfortable with.

Returning via Taralga, the rain gods are chasing us, and we decide to leave the planned visit to Goulburn War

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Memorial and museum for another day and head to Berrima for lunch.

Pulling into Berrima we stumble across Schmokin’. This is one of those gems that appear from nowhere. Like an oasis, it sits in the right place for the right reasons. Ample seating for meal or drink, a guy in the corner with his guitar, you can’t ask for more on a Sunday afternoon.

Owned and operated by Martyn and Pauline Poytress, it has been open since June 2020 and looks to have been a success even with Covid-19 lurking in the background. Browsing in the store I ask Pauline how they came to Berrima and came up with the concept of café, apparel and workshop?

“Schmokin’ was born over the family kitchen bench as an idea, with input from both our boys (the eldest being in the USA) and still is... We needed a lifestyle change for Martyn, away from a very stressful job that was impacting our lives. We chose Berrima as a www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au AM0721.indd 97

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location because we have always loved this area, beautiful countryside, quaint villages - the type of countryside we lived in and bought our children up in in the UK until we emigrated. We have since discovered what a great central location Berrima is for Sydney to Canberra; the Blue Mountains to the Coast, all easy as a day ride or a pit stop if going on through.”

Located at the southern end of Berrima it offers customers a café, apparel, Mutt motorbike Sales, Valkree and Micheal Blast Electric bike sales and hire, fabrication and spraying of seats and tanks, The Wellness Club, Motorbike Riding Club, a monthly whiskey tasting club and a platform for local singers at weekends.

What sets Schmokin’ apart from other pubs, cafes and roadside stops you come across is with all the components, it’s unique in country NSW. “The Wellness Club started after we had a small workshop which soon became a place for people to come and chat, even having a tinker and offer advice on the bikes being

worked on, a real draw card to people (predominantly men) who kept coming back. Through this mental health issues also started to come out and how great it was to have a place to get away from their day-to-day issues - and with firsthand experience within the Schmokin’ family it was the perfect fit within the business.”

“We purchased two BSA bikes in bits locally. The one the Wellness Club has restored so far is a 175cc BSA Bantam which has been sold locally with ALL the proceeds going back into the next restoration, another 175cc BSA Bantam which is well on its way with more bikes in the pipeline...It is purely a not-for-profit club”.

“We usually see people come to us who are very reserved, and we start to explain what Schmokin’ is all about and the bikes we’re restoring/have restored in the Wellness Club and how mental health issues have touched so many people, us included. They then soon start to open up and you can see it in some peoples’ eyes, the deep emotions. We start to include them in

our happy life at Schmokin’ and slowly see the smiles come back, encouraging them to come back and hang out with us again... which a lot do. We’ve even been known to have a styling session of our clothes on one of their bikes!”

The Wellness Club operates mainly Thursday mornings 9am-12noon and you just turn up... although you can turn up any time for a hangout and a chat.

This is an inspiring haven that Martyn and Pauline have established.

With the stress of the last few years coping with drought, fires, isolation, fear of toilet paper shortages and fear of catching Covid- 19, they seem to have created a sanctuary in the Southern Highlands for whoever wants to stop for a plate of chicken wings and cider, tinker on a bike or just sit, breathe and watch. A simple thing like tinkering on a bike can change peoples lives.

It’s interesting how you can stumble across something extraordinary just by travelling to places you have never been while looking for a campground.

D

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TECHNICAL

TIGER RESCUE Part 2 WORDS & PHOTOS PICKO

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W

ELL, IT’S FINALLY ON the road. And it’s a better bike than I expected, to be

honest.

Last issue you saw the bike half pulled apart in my quest to resurrect this unloved Triumph Tiger 955.

Whether I have succeeded in my quest to get an adventure bike on the road for peanuts is debatable but so far, I’m impressed with the ride quality of a bike that’s been treated pretty poorly during its life.

A quick recap might be in order here. I paid two grand for the bike, a 2005 Triumph Tiger 955 with 90,000 kilometres under its wheels. In the last issue I’d replaced the fork seals and oil, cleaned up the rusty fork tubes, fitted new aggressive Anlas tyres, changed the engine oil and filter, chucked a new battery in it, and that was about it. There was a bit more to do to get it roadworthy though.

A new chain and sprockets were needed, some brake pads, and some cheap mirrors. Replacing the chain is easy enough but it does scare some people who’ve never done one before.

Most quality chains have rivet joining links these days, rather than the old style removable clip. I do have a chain breaker and joiner but of course I’d loaned it to a mate. No dramas, just grind flat any old link, place said ground down link on the substantial piece of timber and remove the link with a small cold chisel. Home badgers at best. I’d ordered new front and rear sprockets, and it’s usually a simple job removing them. The rear was easy but of course the front sprocket had a nut requiring a massive 36mm socket.

Off to a cheapo auto store for an impact socket the right size, and then of course I realised I should have left the chain on before removing the front sprocket nut with an impact gun. In my mind just putting the bike in gear and going for it with a serious impact gun on the front sprocket nut could put too much strain on the gearbox.

Am I right? Who knows, but best to be safe I reckon. So, I put the new chain on the bike, with the new rear sprocket, which allowed me to hold the rear brake on to limit load on the www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au 101

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Clockwise from above left: Some body filler and a bit of flat black will tidy this up until the decision is made to paint it…or not; The front subframe is slightly out of whack from the crash but I haven’t bothered about it yet; There’s the slightest oil weep noticed from the first ride. It’s coming from a miniature sized hole in the engine cover, caused in a previous owners crash. No problems though, a bit of Araldite, JB Weld or similar, and of course some flat black for making it beautiful;There’s a couple of decent dents in the rear rim, but you couldn’t tell while riding

gearbox. My trusty impact gun got the nut off pronto.

It was a simple job of slipping out the old worn front sprocket and slipping in the new one. Then out with a little G-clamp I have, to push the rivet link on the new chain, get my wife on her knees with a big hammer on the back of the link while I peened over the rivets.

Job done. I hope you got all that. I don’t want to repeat myself.

Next job was the front and rear pads.

I had already ordered and received them. Just when I’m on a roll, I found the rear pads looked nothing like the ones on the bike. They are still OK, so will have to wait until I feel like replacing them. Often, it’s better to remove said pads and hustle down to the bike shop so they can compare your pads with the pics in the book.

Saves getting held up with some parts interpreter’s lack of knowledge.

Luckily the front ones were correct but after fitting the new pads and greasing the slider pins I found the bike was difficult to push around.

Obviously the caliper pistons were sticking. What often happens when the pads are worn well down for some time is the pistons get covered in crap which then binds them in the bores when you push them further in after putting new pads on. Three out of four were sticking so out they came. Not with the special tool piston removal tool I bought off the net mind you.

It was absolutely terrible at doing its job. In fact, it didn’t do its job at all. My old school bodgery got them out with minimal damage, so some 1000 wet and dry, and oil stone, and I had them cleaned up and back in.

Bleeding the brakes was no issue, and now I have perfectly working brakes.

The only problem I encountered here was a stuffed screw in the front brake reservoir lid. That took some getting out I can tell you.

I was getting a bit excited now, I was on the home stretch. But every time I started the bike it was a bit reluctant to fire up and then started to run rough at idle, popping and farting back

through the throttle bodies. This could be valve clearances that are too tight, or some hose off somewhere causing an air leak.

Great, I thought, finding an air leak can be difficult at times. Off with the tank and airbox again, and the issue was staring me straight in the face.

There are three vacuum hoses going from the throttle position sensor (TPS) to the throttle bodies. Each one was stuffed, and literally fell apart in my hands. Off to my regular el cheapo parts store had me some vacuum hose and it was sorted quite easily. I did breathe a sigh of relief when it fired up instantly and ran sweet as. Dr Google gave me a heads up on what the cause could have been and he was right.

The last two jobs were fitting some mirrors, and my local bike shop had some Honda XR mirrors that fitted perfectly, and ditching the god awful transformers-style headlight. The previous owner had hit a kangaroo and speared himself into the scenery, breaking a few bits on the bike,

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The list Rear brake pads $45.90 Front brake pads $67.90 Chain $249 Rear sprocket $75 Front sprocket $29 2 x mirrors $45 Headlights $150 Four hours labour $400 TOTAL $1061.80

including the left headlight. I found a set of original headlights via the web and it was a simple bolt-on replacement. The old set had broken tabs and cable ties hold it on, while the new set I bought was mint.

Now it was time to ride my Post Apocalyptic/Covid beast to see if I was a winner, or not. Firstly, the bike still looks like shit, but that doesn’t bother me at the moment. I was more interested in how it performed. Now I’m not sure if the Tiger is a quick steerer in standard trim, but with the Anlas Capra X tyres, it is now. That took me a bit to get used to but after half an hour or so of some windy back roads, I was happy with how it felt. Those tyres are probably a bit too aggressive for the style of riding I’ll be doing but I’m happy enough. No leaks from the forks but they did feel a bit firm, as did the rear shock. There’s no adjustment as such on the forks for pre-load but there is on the shock. I’ll

have a bit of a play there. Overall, it was quite good but could be a bit plusher I think. I put 10 weight fork oil in it but maybe five weight would be better. Power wise it has plenty for my needs, and ran fantastic, the triple engine howling through the Staintune muffler under hard acceleration. It was quite frugal too, going by the fuel gauge, if that means anything.

Onto the dirt and I was again very impressed with my budget adventure tourer. Apart from the firm-ish suspension, the tyres worked great, and the riding position was just right for me. The rider’s seat is adjustable, and with it on the highest, I did have a stretch to reach the ground. I’ll drop it one spot, and look at fitting a set of handlebar risers, I think. That won’t give me my ideal position for normal riding but will be spot on for stand-up riding. I’m still yet undecided whether to tart it up a bit with some new paint and stripes. Sure, I can do it myself, but it will still cost at least $500 for paint and decals.

Last issue I’d spent $2000 buying the bike and another $685 on parts.

I’d also toiled away for three hours fitting the bits. Since then I’ve spent $45.90 on rear pads that didn’t fit,

$67.90 on the front brake pads, $249 on the chain, $75 on the rear sprocket, $29 for the front sprocket and $45 for the two mirrors. Also add in that set of original headlights for $150 delivered.

I reckon I’ve also spent four hours fitting all that gear. That gives a total of $3346.80. If you added up seven hours of labour at a bike shop you’d be looking at $700. I can do it myself but if you can’t then expect to pay $100 an hour for someone who can.

I wanted to have it on the road for four grand with rego and I’ve done that. I possibly could have bought a better one for that sort of money, but at the time I bought it, I could only find two for sale, and they were around the 7K mark. Sure, they were in much better condition and had luggage but that’s the game the project hunter plays. If you struggle to find the right end of a spanner maybe it wouldn’t have been a smart idea buying this bike. Cheap ain’t always cheap, and I think you are always better off buying the best bike you can afford because it usually turns out economically better in the long run, but I feel confident enough in this bike now that I’d ride it pretty much anywhere. www.ausmotorcyclist.com.au 103

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WHATSAYYOU?

W

E LOVE TO HEAR FROM YOU, the letters are among the most keenly read parts of the magazine.

Please try and keep letters down to no more than 300 words. Then you can read many, not just a couple.

We do reserve the right to cut them and, unless you identify yourself and at least your town or suburb and state, we will print your email address instead. Please address letters to contactus@ausmotorcyclist.com.au or Australian Motorcyclist Magazine, Suite 4b, Level 1, 11-13 Orion Rd, Lane Cove West NSW 2066.

All opinions published here are those of the writers and we do not vouch for their accuracy or even their sanity.

LETTER OF THE MONTH

I

T’S ALWAYS GREAT TO hear what you guys think of the mag – it helps us put what you want, or don’t want to read within these pages, but when we get letters like the following from John, it shows we are doing it right. So, John, you’ve won the awesome Motul Chain pack. Send me your mailing address!

THE BEST

Hi Stuart, Thanks for the reminder. I will be renewing for 2 years to join you all on the run to issue 124.

Your magazine is excellent. I am a recent convert to motorcycling and am of the more mature variety (52 and always wanted to ride but didn’t get to it what with jobs and kids etc…), so I represented a part of your circulation boost last year.

I read your mag, AMCN, Adventure Bike Rider and the equivalent Road Rider mag. I like them all but yours is the best. What makes it so is the down to earth grittiness of the publication and the fact that you aren’t beholden to the world’s

watch makers. I love and often re-read the sections on travel and pub of the month. I also enjoy the tear out maps which are unique and useful. I also enjoy Boris’ work although am sure he would consider me too far over to the blousy electronic safety net end of the riding spectrum for his more hardcore, knee dragging (I did not say knuckle…) tastes. He does make some good points though - as do you all - and the spirit of simple riding enjoyment that flows from the pages makes your magazine a refreshing change in this instant gratification, consumerist and showy world that we live in.

I started out with a KTM 390 Adventure last year to celebrate the Ls. Loved it but the saddle killed the backside after 60 minutes. Last week I moved to a Triumph Trident 660 to take me through my Ps journey and am finding the bike very enjoyable. After that, who knows?

Well done on 100 issues and stay with your spirit of “Truth in Motorcycling”.

Best, John

Hi John, Thank you, that is great to hear.

Don’t worry, Boris needs all the electronics available to help himself. There certainly isn’t any knee dragging! LOL! Yeah, the smaller adventure type bikes do have killer seats most of the time. I’m sure you’ll enjoy the Trident and maybe a Street Triple 765 or Speed Triple 1200 are next on the agenda?

Cheers, Stuart.

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W H AT S AY Y O U toHAPPY improve my biceps Braidwood. to ride, havepursuit a social 100! away fromPurpose such a “dangerous” get together and have some food whilst toStuart, improve myand biceps Braidwood. ride, social Peter the team, – strangelyPurpose though to they arehave stillahappy to improve biceps Braidwood.

Purpose to ride, have whilst afor social HiGreat Harry, out.

Now, noand such trips. get some food 100thmy issue, but then they are to together go skiing or have bungee jumping no together have whilst I’mall sure your legs look finedefinitely to the ones that Iget know there has been panic in terms of Hi Harry, out.

Now, noand such trips. good.

You have tuned good reason.

Even insome my food own circle GOODLY Hi Harry, out.

Now, notohas such trips.panic care…your family.

As fiforneconsciousness your being up of products like loo I’m sure your legs look to thebike onesnotthat Ibuying know there in paper, terms into collective of a there used bebeen about a dozen of usof Hithe Stuart, I’m sure your legs look fi ne to the ones that I know there has been panic in paper, terms of veryyour good exercise machine, you better get an ofa tissues, hand sanitizer, canned care…your family.

Asmag, for your bike not being buying up ofrides, products like readership with a good dose on regular nowpasta, we loo are lucky to Firstly, great love it each care…your family.

As foryou yourbetter being buying upturn ofsanitizer, products likebe loo paper, adventure bikeknowledge and doKawasaki some hillclimbs, that will aof tissues, tomatoes and other products. valuable and abike little dash get 4 to up. It will aThis sad panic day very good exercise machine, getnot an hand pasta, canned month.

The Versys very goodbike exercise machine, youinbetter get anwill tissues, sanitizer, pasta, S burning! you reviewed (cheers Boris) –the there are a tomatoes when has Ihand can’t getridiculous my leg over theopinion bike, getirreverence the 1000 muscles - Cheers, Stuart. buying been incanned my adventure and do some hillclimbs, that and other products.

This panic adventure bike and do some hillclimbs, that will tomatoes and other products.

This panic (97) was great. oddissue bods that take him the wrong buying (then maybe a ridiculous scooterofwill me and created a problem store supply getfew the last muscles burning!

- Cheers, Stuart. has been in keep my opinion get the muscles burning!

-the Cheers, Stuart. buying has been ridiculous mytake opinion I at was looking electronic way times, butatwe are a strange going) in the meantime Iinwill where there no need stockpile and created awas problem of to store supply and created a problem of store supply suspension version collective of odd bods last whoyear share a love where every there I can get on the bike COVID 1 goods atkilometre home. note that news wasIno need tothe stockpile where therereading was noyour need great to stockpile but you have just sold me on affair with our bikes. and keep mag Dear Stuart, reports say that a small supermarket COVID 1 goods at home. I note that the newsand COVID 1 themodel. goods atofhome.

I every note that the newsevery this new Not only is Loved articles on the Meteor dreamDrake’s doing ride ClearlyStuart, there is a lot of economic group has refused tofrom buy back Dear reports say that aa small supermarket Dear Stuart, reports say that small supermarket it cheaper, which is great for and the Street Bob, both bikes Iand it group map. downturn as a result of COVID19 150 x 32 roll packs of toilet paper and Clearly there is a lot of economic Drake’s has refused to back Clearly therethings ishave a lothappy of my economic group Drake’s has refused to buy buy back keeping with thefor would gladly in garage Cheers and thanks. is further impacting on car sales and I 1 ltr sanitizer.

I am GLAD they downturn as a result of COVID19 and it 150 x 32 roll packs of toilet paper and downturn a result ofreasons COVID19 and it 150 x,Werribee 32 roll packs of toilet paper and “boss”,asbut as you mentioned completely different –and bikes Phil Vic would think motorcycle sales (which I refused a refund as the individual is further impacting on car sales I 150 x 1 ltr sanitizer.

I am GLAD they is further impacting on all carmy salestroubles and I 150 x 1 ltr sanitizer. I am GLAD they you’d be hard pressed to can change your day, think have been down anyway pre concerned was having 20 people would think motorcycle sales (which II refused aarefund as individual really notice the difference would think motorcycle sales (which refused refund as the theabout individual disappear when I put that helmet on. concerned Hi Phil, Covid19). chase these products and then think have been down anyway pre was having about 20hepeople people between the two.alert I anyway likewith thepre think have been down concerned was our having about You become super a singular Gladthese youto like mix inthen the20Serve mag. the There is nobody much on the roads in attempted re-sell on E-Bay. Covid19). chase products and he grey paintwork as well, let’selse in Covid19). chase these productsisand then hefull of pushes everything Yes, motorcycling certainly thefocus ACT except who by necessity bugger right for being aE-Bay. scungyServe There is that nobody much ononthe roads inin attempted to re-sell on the see how thethose “Highly Durable There is nobody much the roads attempted to re-sell on E-Bay. Serveasthe your head tofor onework side.or Ifood get back odd bods! We’ve got the Meteor have to go out and individual! the ACT except those who by necessity bugger right for being a scungy Paint” goes in real life. the ACT except thoseride who by necessity bugger right forand being a scungy from a demanding exhausted but a long termer it is great to jump Regards, Mark, QLD essentials.

All that said, I think your quoting of have to gogo outout for work ororfood and individual! have to for work food and individual! completely relaxed. on and blast around – as a city and I have been managing to use the bike for fiAll gures of theIIpeople thatquoting die dailyoffrom essentials.

All that said, think your essentials. thatsuburbs said, think Picking up STUFF on the wise words outer styleyour bike it is great.

I GREAT trips within the confi nes of the cancer, heart disease, diabetes, mozzies Iessential have been managing to use the bike for fi gures of the people that die Idaily from Ifrom have been managing to use the bike for fi gures of the people that from Boris about our dwindling am giving it all I can when ride it Iborder haven’t enjoyed aaconfi bike mag who shares the passion, regardless ACT but thataverage isthe big change and murders is an unfair comparison! essential trips within the nes the heart disease, diabetes, mozzies essential trips within confi nesoflike offrom the cancer, cancer, heart disease, diabetes, numbers and an demographic soofwe’ll see how it choice fares after a few Yes this since the old Two Wheels that their ability or of machine. ourapproaching weekly ride group where we would to date the total numbers of COVID19 ACT border butbut that is a big change from and murders is an unfair comparison!

Yes ACT border that is a big change from and murders is an unfair Yes 50+, what a sad state. months. say subscribed, that motorcycling asweekly a kid I’dof eagerly pedal my pushyItto to So,World I Ihave toCOVID19 mostkeeps of by usually ride out the ACT to, say, deaths Wide would be exceeded our weekly ride group where we would date the total numbers of our ride group where we would to date the total numbers COVID19 appears the media for andevery thought police so the more riding you the newsagents month and ayou theyoung, magazine, but thanks Goulburn orout Boorowa orACT Yass week’s worth or less perhaps ofthe theif by usually ride ofofthetheACT to, say, deaths World Wide would be–for exceeded by usually ride out to,or say, deaths World Wide would have slowly worked their way into do, the better off you’ll be even read every page once I got it home. spare shit paper at the end :) Goulburn or Boorowa or Yass or a week’s worth or less of the Goulburn or Boorowa or Yass or a week’s worth or less perhaps theIheads ofbikes the young steering them that means jumping on a scoot when love all and respect anyone Hugh Jorgan

reasons of these swingingfora the leg daily over fiagures seat gets too deaths, however this pandemic of COVID reasons hard. for the daily figures of these reasons for the daily gures these 19 is notmate. normal andfipandemic as youofwould know deaths, however this of COVID Enjoy, deaths, however this pandemic of COVID has potential 19 isthe not normal andtotally as youoverwhelming would know Cheers, Stuart.

Hi Hugh, for 19 notpotential normal and as you would know theishospital andfor medical resources of all has the for overwhelming Thanks thetotally kind words, has the potential for totally overwhelming countries.

I am aware of any cancers the hospital andnot resources of all FREE MEAL? although Imedical don’t think the shiny the hospital and medical resources of all etc canI am catch shaking Hi you Stuart, countries. notfrom aware ofgood anysomeone’s cancers paper would go too as countries.

I am not‘donated’ awareshaking of any cancers paper.

LOL! I’myou the guy you furniture hand orshit touching contaminated surfaces. etc can catch from someone’s etc you can catch from shaking someone’s Stuart. to some months back.

FYI, I renewed So, comparing normal worldwide deaths to hand orCheers, touching contaminated surfaces. hand orhappily) touching contaminated (very online yesterday.

COVID19 deaths is like trying surfaces. to Any compare So, comparing normal worldwide deaths to So, comparing normal worldwide deaths to BORIS chance of joining at trying a photoshoot apples and oranges.

COVID19 deaths isuplike to compare COVID19 deaths is like trying to compare All the dissing sometime?

I’mpeople still good forBoris the Iapples felt your came across as andeditorial oranges. apples and oranges.

“Get a Life”.

Don’t read it, ‘refreshments’. dismissive of the seriousness of as Covid19 feltyour youreditorial editorial cameacross across IIWarm felt came as you know where it is.

Last page!in regards, Steve and smacked a bit of self-centredness dismissive of the seriousness of Covid19 dismissive of the Ignore it! seriousness of Covid19 highlighting the inconvenience it hasinin and smacked bit self-centredness and smacked aabit ofofaself-centredness Don’t ruin top read because Hi Steve, caused you.

I like bikes and riding too, but highlighting the inconvenience has highlighting the inconvenience it itIhas of one page, personally love Thankpeople you –Ihave Ilike will pick that up and putbut many had to alter travel plans caused you. bikes and riding too, his column (even though Itoo, feel caused you.

I likelist. bikes and riding but it into the subs Yes, of course.

I etc forpeople thehas greater good. many people have had toalter alterhis travel plans he a firm grip on nether many have had to travel plans getthe in greater touch when we’ve got a bike Iwill think that all the media reporting etc for good. region).

Begood. a boring read if though etc for the greater and see if you’re available. worrisome peoplethough as it is think thatsuccumb theAustralian media reporting though we to the lowest IIis think that allallfor the media reporting Cheers, Stuart. repeated and repeated and like the is worrisome for Australian people common denominator. is worrisome for Australian people asasit itis is No name provided bushfi res you do not get alike break repeated and repeated and likethe thefrom it. repeated and repeated and OUTSTANDING Everyres time you on T.V,from look bushfi res you doturn notget getathe abreak break fromit.atit. bushfi you do not Greetings Stuart, BORIS 2 Facebook, listen to the radio it is in your Every time you turn on the T.V, look Every time you turn on the T.V, look Congratulations on the 100th issueatat of Stuart, face or ears.

Facebook, listen to the radio it is inyour your Facebook, listen to the radio it is in Australian Motorcyclist Magazine. don’t always agree with what Boris III try toears. reduce my listening/reading/ face or ears. face or have just renewed my subscription has to say but I am well to once orlistening/reading/ twiceaware a dayofto keep up tryanother toreduce reduce myyears.

IIwatching try to my listening/reading/ for two how he writes to get a reaction. with developments -twice more than that is upup watching once aday day keep watching totoonce orortwice athe toto keep Bear, Ralph team AsYou, for the couple ofand blokes that with developments more than that is with developments more than that is continue outstanding sent letterstoinproduce the last an issue, I think

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30/4/20 9:37 pm

contribution to Australian Motorcycle Journalism.I now have the first one hundred issues in my collection and look forward to the next one hundred issues.The team’s efforts are appreciated.

Yours in Motorcycling, Mark Hopping (Bear Army # 77)

better than that. You guys have great bike reviews that tell everyone what the bike is like without any “fluff” or fairies flying around and you put in just the right amount of technical info without sounding like a robot. I also love the travel, I am hanging to get overseas and jump on one of the tours with either IMT Bike or Adriatic Tours. Why can’t this covid crap piss off! You guys keep up the awesome work and here’s to the next 100 issues!

Regards, Brian, Caloundra

Hi Mark, Thank you for the kind words – they are appreciated. Have a great one.

Cheers, Stuart.

WELL DONE

Hi Stuart, I have followed your journey of restoring the Z900 and have to say you have done an outstanding job of the restoration. I so happen to live in Sydney and when you mentioned it was at Shannons Auctions I went straight there to check it out. The photos in the magazine are amazing but in the flesh, this bike is on another level. Well done, mate and I and I’m sure many others can’t wait to see what’s next.

Regards, Peter Hi Peter, Well, thank you. I’m quite happy with how it turned out too. Let’s see how

HITMAN

much it goes for at auction!

Cheers, Stuart.

PRODUCE MORE!

Hey Stuart, Happy 100th issue. I love this magazine so much, I hang for it each month and wish you could produce more each month and I have to tell you I’ve read all the other mags in this country and they’re not even worthy of being a fish wrapper, the battered fish deserve

Stuart, Congratulations on the 100th issue of the magazine. It continues to be an excellent read looked forward to each month. Colin Whelan didn’t mention that the hitman from TV’s Mr Inbetween was also the new landlord at the Walbundrie pub. (P83).

Regards Bruce Thompson Hi Bruce, Thank you. Didn’t you know, ‘hit men’ have to keep on the ‘lowdown’? Adam is just a fella that kind of, sort of, looks like him. LOL! Cheers, Stuart.

TOUR OPERATOR The guide to the stars DIRECTORY

The who’s who in the zoo of motorcycle travel worldwide is what you’ll find here.

We’ve travelled with many of them and know them all, so they come highly recommended. In alphabetical order, they are:

ADRIATIC MOTO TOURS – Europe www.adriaticmototours.com info@adriaticmototours.com CENTRAL OTAGO MOTORCYCLE HIRE AND TOURS – New Zealand www.comotorcyclehire.co.nz info@comotorcyclehire.co.nz EDELWEISS BIKE TRAVEL – Worldwide tours* *Guided, Self-Guided + Rental www.edelweissbike.com IMTBIKE TOURS & RENTALS – Spain, Portugal, Morocco, Europe and Thailand www.imtbike.com tours@imtbike.com

MAGIC MOTORCYCLING – Thailand and Croatia www.magicmotorcycling.com tour@magicmotorcycling.com MOTORRAD TOURS – Worldwide office@motorrad-tours.com www.motorrad-tours.com PARADISE MOTORCYCLE TOURS – New Zealand & European Alps www.paradisemotorcycletours.co.nz RIDE THE WORLD MOTORCYCLE TOURS www.ridetheworldmotorcycletours.com david@rtwmotorcycletours.com

ROMANIA MOTORCYCLE TOURS – Europe www.romaniamotorcycletours.com office@romaniamotorcycletours.com SOUTH PACIFIC MOTORCYCLE TOURS – New Zealand www.motorbiketours.co.nz office@motorbiketours.co.nz TEWAIPOUNAMU MOTORCYCLE TOURS – New Zealand www.motorcycle-hire.co.nz nzbike@motorcycle-hire.co.nz WORLD ON WHEELS – Europe, Iceland, South America, India, Asia, Mexico, Africa & Himalaya www.worldonwheels.tours Adventure@WorldOnWheels.Tours

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BEARTALES

LADY LUCK SMILES

I

HAD A BIT OF luck the other day.

Almost wrote ‘stroke of luck’, but that would have been misleading. I didn’t have a stroke, I had a heart attack.

Come to think of it, that amounted to two bits of luck in this case. First, I didn’t have it while I was out in the Flinders Ranges where I had been riding my BMW F 750 GS a couple of days before it happened. Second, because it was relatively mild. I didn’t realise that it was a heart attack and just lay on the floor in severe pain, groaning for 10 minutes. But it encouraged me to go to my doctor.

Why was that lucky? Because he said, “I want you to go to hospital right now, in an ambulance”. At the hospital, the cardiologist noted that the offending artery was 90 per cent blocked, and any more buildup would have meant that I’d have what he called “the big one” which I would have been unlikely to survive. Because that first attack sent me to the doctor, it saved my life.

So I had a stent inserted and now feel better than before, thank you for asking.

But why am I boring you with my personal medical problems? Because

I want to use this event – that’s what they call it in the cardiac ward, an “event” – to encourage you to get vaccinated against what I call the plague, better known as COVID-19.

Because of my age I have been able to have my first shot. I must admit that when the first, relatively minor heart attack hit, my first thought was that it might be a side effect of the injection. It wasn’t, of course, but even if it had been I would not have regretted being vaccinated.

There are many reasons to get that injection, and here is where we get onto motorcycling. If you have even a mild case of the plague, you will be off your bike for a while. After you recover, you will still be well advised to stay clear of your friends and fellow riders. And if you are unfortunate enough to get what they’re calling Long Covid, you may never ride a bike again.

As well, every vaccination brings us closer to that much-anticipated time (by me, at least) when the gummint opens the borders again and we can go and ride in more places than just Oz and Unzud. I have nothing against the East Islands or their inhabitants, and

I intend to take advantage of the open borders very soon with an excursion over there. But there are a lot of other places that beckon, too. For one thing I may finally be able to take up my friend Scott’s invitation to ride the hills and taste the wines of Portugal on one of his IMTBIKE tours.

It might sound odd, but a heart attack can actually be a far lesser evil than a plague infection. It knocks you around, true, but after appropriate treatment you will be able to return to your normal life, including motorcycle riding. The plague can kill you or affect the rest of your life though Long Covid, which seems to age your immune system prematurely.

Every one of you out there is important to me, and not just because you buy the magazine or ride a motorcycle. As the good Doctor Donne put it so beautifully, “any man’s death diminishes me, because I am involved in Mankinde”. And yes, 400 years ago “man” was like the German “Mensch” and included woman.

Mind you, it is undeniably true that you are just the teeniest bit more important to me because you buy this magazine… D

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NEWBIKEPRICES

M

ost prices exclude dealer and on road costs and some are ride away prices – ask your local dealer for the best possible price!

APRILIA

www.aprilia.com.au ROAD Shiver 900 ABS Dorsoduro 900 ABS Tuono V4 1100 RR Tuono V4 1100 Factory RSV4 1100 Factory SCOOTERS SR MT 125 Scarabeo 200 ie

$15,190 $15,790 $22,490 $27,190 $33,990 $3390 $5190

BENELLI

www.benelli.com.au

*All Benelli prices are ride away ROAD TnT 135 $3690 502C $9090 Leoncino $8490 Leoncino Trail $8990 752 S $11,690 ADV TOURING TRK 502 TRK 502X

$8490 $8990

BMW

S 1000 XR Carbon Sport

$29,290

ADV TOURING G 310 GS F 750 GS F 750 GS Tour F 750 GS Low Susp F 750 GS Tour LS F 850 GS F 850 GS Rallye F 850 GS Rallye X F 850 GS Tour F 850 GS Low Susp F 850 GS Rallye Low Susp F 850 GS Tour Low Susp F 850 GSA R 1250 GS R 1250 GS Rallye R 1250 GS Rallye X R 1250 GS Exclusive R 1250 GS Spezial R 1250 GSA R 1250 GSA Rallye R 1250 GSA Rallye X R 1250 GSA Exclusive R 1250 GSA Spezial

$8090 $13,590 $17,305 $13,840 $17,005 $17,990 $18,390 $22,305 $21,805 $18,240 $18,640 $21,505 $TBA $23,490 $24,940 $29,890 $28,140 $31,390 $25,490 $26,390 $31,590 $30,790 $30,540

SCOOTER C 650 Sport C 650 GT

$14,150 $14,990

CAN-AM (BRP) www.brp.com

Spyder F3 Spyder F3-S Spyder F3-T Spyder F3 Limited Spyder RT Spyder RT Limited

$TBA $TBA $TBA $TBA $TBA $TBA

CF MOTO

www.bmwmotorrad.com.au

www.cf-moto.com.au

ROAD G 310 R F 900 R S 1000 R S 1000 R Sport S 1000 RR M 1000 RR R nineT R nineT Pure R nineT Scrambler R nineT Racer R nineT Urban G/S R 1250 R R 1250 R HP R 1250 R Exclusive R 1250 R Spezial R 1250 R R 1250 RS Sport R 1250 RS Exclusive R 1250 R Spezial R 1250 RT R 1250 RT Sport R 1250 RT Elegance R 1250 R Spezial K 1600 B K 1600 B Grand America K 1600 GT K 1600 GTL

$5790 $16,645 $19,390 $21,690 $25,670 $TBA $22,490 $17,690 $18,750 $19,150 $18,750 $21,240 $27,040 $26,065 $26,765 $22,540 $28,215 $27,215 $28,065 $32,290 $33,190 $33,465 $34,215 $36,490 $44,695 $36,490 $37,990

ADV SPORT F 900 XR S 1000 XR

$19,835 $27,975

ROAD 150NK $3290 250NK $3990 650NK $6490 650TK $7990 650MT $7990 650GT $7990

DUCATI

www.ducati.com.au

*All Ducati prices are ride away ROAD Scrambler Sixty2 $13,490 Scrambler Icon $13,990 Scrambler Full Throttle $17,540 Scrambler Café Racer $18,990 Scrambler Desert Sled $19,290 Scrambler 1100 $16,990 Scrambler 1100 Special $18,990 Scrambler 1100 Sport $19,990 Monster 659 $12,490 Monster 797 $13,490 Monster 821 $17,500 Monster 821 Stealth $18,590 Hypermotard $20,790 Hypermotard SP $25,990 Supersport $17,790 Supersport S $20,250 Panigale 959 Red $22,490

Panigale 959 White Panigale 959 Corse Monster 1200 Monster 1200 S Red Monster 1200 S Grey Monster 1200 R Red Diavel 1260 Diavel 1260 S X Diavel X Diavel S Black X Diavel S White Streetfighter V4 Streetfighter V4 S Panigale V4 Panigale V4 S Panigale V4 S GP Panigale V4 Speciale Panigale V4 Speciale Magnesium Wheel Panigale V4 R Panigale V4 R Superleggera ADV TOURING Multistrada 950 Red Multistrada 950 S Red Multistrada 950 S Grey Multistrada 950 S Red Spokes Multistrada 950 S Grey Spokes Multistrada 1260 Red Multistrada 1260 S Red Multistrada 1260 S White/Grey Multistrada 1260 S T-Pack Multistrada 1260 S Pikes Peak Multistrada 1260 Enduro Red Multistrada 1260 Enduro Sand Multistrada 1260 Enduro Red T-Pack Multistrada 1260 Enduro Sand T-Pack

$22,990 $25,990 $22,990 $26,990 $27,190 $30,190 $29,790 $34,890 $30,190 $35,490 $35,790 $29,800 $33,900 $31,390 $39,990 $42,790 $63,190 $68,190 $63,190 $150,000 $20,990 $23,490 $23,790 $23,750 $23,990 $26,490 $31,190 $31,390 $33,190 $38,490 $31,990 $32,190 $34,690 $34,890

HARLEY-DAVIDSON

www.harley-davidson.com * All Harley-Davidson prices are ride away CRUISER Street 500 $9995 Street Rod $12,995 SuperLow 883 $15,495 Iron 883 $15,495 Iron 1200 $16,495 Forty-Eight $18,995 Forty-Eight Special $18,995 Custom 1200 $19,250 Roadster $19,495 Street Bob $23,495 Low Rider $24,250 Slim $26,250 Fat Bob $27,495 Fat Bob 114 $30,250 Sport Glide $27,750 Deluxe $29,495 Fat Boy $30,995 Fat Boy 114 $33,995 Breakout $31,250 Breakout 114 $33,995 FXDR 114 $35,495 Heritage Classic $31,750 Heritage Classic 114 $33,995

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NEW BIKE PRICES Road King $34,250 Road King Special $35,250 Road Glide $36,495 Road Glide Special $37,495 Street Glide $36,495 Street Glide Special $37,495 Ultra Limited $39,995 Freewheeler $40,250 Tri Glide Ultra $50,995

Chief Dark Horse $28,995 Chief Vintage $32,995 Springfield $33,995 Springfield Dark Horse $34,995 Chieftain Dark Horse $35,995 Chieftain Limited $36,995 Roadmaster $40,995 Roadmaster Elite $49,995

CVO Street Glide 117 Road Glide 117 Ultra Limited 117

KAWASAKI

$49,750 $49,995 $52,995

HONDA

www.honda.com.au ROAD Grom $3490 Monkey $5399 CB125E $2399 CB300R $5999 CB500F $7599 CBR500R $7699 CBR600RR $14,999 CB650F $9799 CB650R $9999 CBR650F $9999 CBR650R $10,299 CB1000R $16,799 CBR1000RR Fireblade $18,086 CBR1000RR Fireblade SP $28,499 Goldwing DCT $35,999 Goldwing Tour $41,999 Goldwing Tour Premium $42,999 CRUISER CMX $8099 ADV TOURING CRF250R Rally $7299 CB500X $7999 NC750XA $9999 Africa Twin $17,499 Africa Twin Adventure Sports $19,699 Africa Twin Adventure Sport DCT $19,999 VFR1200X Crosstourer $18,299 SCOOTER NSC110 Dio $2799 MW110 Benly $3349 C125 Super Cub $5199 SH150 $4999 PCX150 $4599 NSS300A Forza $7999

HUSQVARNA

www.husqvarna-motorcycles.com/au ROAD Vitpilen 401 Svartpilen 401 Vitpilen 701

$11,592 $11,592 $18,337

www.kawasaki.com.au ROAD Z125 Pro KRT $4090 Z400 $6799 Ninja 400 $6899 Ninja 400 SE $7149 Z650L $10,499 Ninja 650/L Grey $10,699 Ninja 650/L Black $10,999 Ninja ZX-6R 636 KRT $15,199 W800 Café $13,999 W800 Street $13,499 Z900 $12,699 Z900RS $16,499 Z1000 $15,999 Ninja 1000 SX $16,999 Ninja 1000 SX SE $17,199 ZX-10R $26,000 ZX-10RR $42,000 ZX-14R $22,099 Z H2 $23,000 H2 SX SE $29,300 CRUISER Vulcan S Vulcan S SE Vulcan S Café Vulcan 900 Classic Vulcan 900 Custom

$9999 $10,199 $10,499 $12,699 $12,799

ADV TOURING Versys X 300 SE $6899 Versys 650/L $10,799 KLR650 $8199 Versys 1000 S $19,999

KTM

www.ktm.com.au ROAD 390 Duke 790 Duke 790 Duke R 1290 Super Duke R 1290 Super Duke GT

$7295 $14,995 $15,495 $25,995 $29,695

ADV TOURING 690 Enduro R 790 Adventure 790 Adventure R 1090 Adventure R 1290 Super Adv S 1290 Super Adv R

$17,595 $21,195 $22,695 $24,295 $28,395 $29,195

INDIAN

KYMCO

*All Indian Motorcycle prices are ride away

ROAD CK 125

$2095

CRUISER Venox 250

$5295

SCOOTER Super 8 125

$2595

www.indianmotorcycles.com.au

CRUISER Scout Bobber $18,995 Scout $19,495 FTR1200 $20,995 FTR1200S $22,995 FTR1200S Race Rep $24,995

kymco.com.au

Like 125 Espresso 150 Like 200 Downtown 300i ABS

$2995 $2799 $3395 $7495

LAMBRETTA www.lambrettaaustralia.com.au V125 Special Fix V125 Special Flex V200 Special Fix V200 Special Flex

$4290 $4290 $4990 $4990

MOTO GUZZI www.motoguzzi.com.au ROAD V7 III Stone V7 III Special V7 III Racer V7 III Anniversario V9 Bobber V9 Roamer

$12,990 $13,990 $16,490 $16,990 $15,190 $15,190

CRUISER Cali Audace Carbon $23,990 Cali 1400 Eldorado $23,990 Cali 1400 Touring SE $25,990 MGX-21 $35,000

MV AGUSTA www.mvagusta.com.au ROAD F3 675 Brutale 800 Rosso Brutale 800 RR Dragster 800 Rosso Dragster 800 RR Dragster 800 RC Dragster 800 RC Race Kit F3 800 F3 800 RC F3 800 RC Race Kit Superveloce 800 Red Superveloce 800 Black (Carbon) Turismo Veloce Rosso Turismo Veloce Lusso Turismo Veloce Lusso SCS Brutale 1000 RR Rush 1000 Rush 1000 Race Kit

$24,290 $22,890 $26,990 $24,390 $28,390 $31,590 $33,190 $25,490 $28,690 $31,890 $32,390 $33,090 $25,990 $30,790 $34,990 $49,990 $53,990 $58,390

PIAGGIO www.piaggio.com.au *Some Piaggio prices are ride away SCOOTER Typhoon 125 Fly 150 3V Liberty S 150 3V Medley 150 Yourban 300 BV 350 Sport Touring X10 350 X10 500

$2790 $3490 $3790 $5290 $9790 $8190 $9490 $9,990

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PEUGEOT

V-Strom 1050 V-Strom 1050 XT

*All Peugeot prices are ride away

SCOOTER Address

www.peugeotmotorcycles.com.au SCOOTER Tweet 125 Tweet 125 Pro Django 150 Belville 200 RS Metropolis 400

$3590 $3690 $4790 $5290 $13,490

ROYAL ENFIELD

www.royalenfieldaustralia.com *All Royal Enfield prices are ride away ROAD Meteor 350 Fireball Meteor 350 Stellar Meteor 350 Supernova Bullet 500 Classic 500 Classic 500 Chrome Interceptor 650 Classic Interceptor 650 Custom Interceptor 650 Chrome Continental GT 650 Classic Continental GT 650 Custom Continental GT 650 Chrome

$6540 $6840 $7240 $7890 $8190 $8390 $8640 $8840 $9140 $8840 $9040 $9340

ADV TOURING Himalayan 410

$6540

SUPER SOCO

www.supersoco.com.au *All Super Soco prices are ride away ROAD TC Café Racer TC Max alloy wheel TC Max wire wheel

$4990 $6990 $7290

SCOOTER CUX $4490 CUX Special Edition Ducati $4990

SUZUKI

www.suzukimotorcycles.com.au ROAD GSX-S125 GSX-R125 DR-Z400SM GSX-R600 SV650 SV650 LAMS GSX-S750 GSX-R750 GSX-S1000 GSX-S1000F GSX-S1000 Katana GSX-R1000 GSX-R1000R GSX1300R Hayabusa

$3490 $4490 $9390 $14,990 $8990 $9190 $11,790 $15,990 $15,190 $16,290 $17,490 $21,990 $25,490 $19,490

CRUISER Boulevard S40 Boulevard C50T Boulevard M109R

$7990 $11,190 $19,790

ADV TOURING DR650SE V-Strom 650 V-Strom 650 XT

$8290 $10,990 $12,290

$16,490 $18,990 $2820

SWM

VESPA

www.swmmotorcycles.com.au

www.vespa.com.au

ROAD Gran Turismo Silver Vase 440 Gran Milano 440 SM 500 R SM 650 R

$7490 $7490 $7990 $8990 $9490

ADV TOURING Superdual

$9990

TRIUMPH

www.triumphmotorcycles.com.au *All Triumph prices are ride away

ROAD Trident 660 $10,990 Street Triple S 660 $14,900 Street Triple RS $19,800 Street Twin $15,890 Street Scrambler $17,990 Bonneville T100 $17,300 Bonneville T100 Black $17,300 Bobber $20,590 Bonneville Bobber Black $22,100 Bonneville T120 $19,990 Bonneville T120 Black $19,990 Speedmaster $22,100 Thruxton $21,100 Thruxton R $23,990 Thruxton RS $25,390 Speed Twin $20,350 Daytona Moto2 765 $28,990 Tiger Sport $19,800 Speed Triple RS $25,290 CRUISER Rocket 3 R Rocket 3 GT

$29,990 $30,900

ADV TOURING Scrambler 1200 XC Scrambler 1200 XE Tiger 900 GT & GT Low Tiger 900 Rally Tiger 900 GT Pro Tiger 900 Rally Pro Tiger 1200 XRx Tiger 1200 XCx Tiger 1200 XRt Tiger 1200 XCa

$22,500 $23,990 $20,950 $21,990 $24,150 $24,750 $26,600 $28,200 $29,990 $31,990

TRIUMPH FACTORY CUSTOM (TFC) www.triumphmotorcycles.com.au *All TFC prices are ride away ROAD Thruxton TFC Bobber TFC Rocket 3 TFC

URAL

www.imz-ural.com.au ROAD

cT $23,290 Ranger $26,490 Gear Up $27,990 Gear Up Sahara SE $31,490 Gear Up Adventure SE $32,250

$33,990 $29,990 $38,990

SCOOTER Primavera 125 3V $5590 Primavera 150 3V $6290 Sprint 150 3V $6390 Sprint 150 3V SE $6490 GTS 150 3V $6290 PX150 $6490 PX150 Touring $6790 946 Bellissima $12,490 946 Armani $14,990 GTS250ie FL $7890 GTS300 Super $9190 GTS300 Super Sport $9490

YAMAHA

www.yamaha-motor.com.au ROAD YZF-R15 $4299 MT-03 $5799 R3 $6299 R3 SP $6399 YZF-R6 $17,499 MT-07 LA $9999 MT-07 HO $10,699 XSR700 LA $10,999 MT-07 Tracer $12,299 MT-09 $12,299 MT-09 SP $13,999 XSR900 $12,999 MT-09 Tracer $15,499 MT-09 Tracer GT $18,199 Niken $21,999 Niken GT $23,999 MT-10 $18,999 MT-10SP $21,999 YZF-R1 $23,999 YZF-R1M $31,999 FJR1300AE $27,999 CRUISER Virago $6799 V Star 650 Custom $8799 V Star 650A Classic $9299 Star Bolt C-Spec Cafe $8699 Star Bolt R-Spec $11,999 V Star 950 $13,999 XVS1300 Stryker $15,499 ADV TOURING XT250 $6299 Tenere 700 $15,499 Super Tenere $19,999 Super Tenere ESP $21,999 SCOOTER D’elight 125 NMAX 150 Tricity 150 XMAX 300 TMAX 560

$3399 $3999 $5099 $6999 $16,599

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BORIS

WORDS BORIS MIHAILOVIC

WHAT THE WORLD NEEDS Y

OU KNOW WHAT THIS world needs?

No, not peace. As if that’s ever gonna be a thing.

Everyone to take climate change seriously? You new here? Maybe when Canberra has a surf beach that will happen.

No, what the world really needs is more crazy motorcycles. Insane, hairyballed, totally impractical, wickedly vicious assemblies of two-wheeled insanity and irresponsibility.

That is what the world needs.

Oh, look at that. I can see many of you safety-orientated He-Karens already starting to foam at your denture-filled mouths. Best fire up that computer and bang out your outrage with that arthritic single finger, huh?

And then get on your practical, gentle, fuel-efficient, quiet, polite, and sensible bike and ride off a cliff.

You deserve nothing less.

The rest of us will continue to howl at the moon and demand crazy motorcycles that leave smoking brands on our souls. Crazy motorcycles that keep us up at night, jerking and spasming in withdrawal, like junkies jonesing for a fix.

Understand the entire vast edifice of motorcycling was built on the back of crazy motorcycles. In fact, until crazy motorcycles came along, bikes were nothing but cheap transport for the impoverished.

And then someone went mad – may his soul bask forever in a bath filled with hot centrefolds – and started doing things to essentially staid motorcycles like Beezas, Nortons, and Triumphs – for reasons that only made sense to them, but included: speeding, offending normal people, bragging to their mates, and getting chicks to take off their clothes.

Over in the States, the craziness took hold and meth-fuelled Yanks began chopping up their Harleys and Indians, and racing them on the streets

while girls threw their underpants at them.

The Japanese soon grasped what was going on. The Honda 750-4 was born, Kawasaki built its widow-making H2, and all the bulls were running out of the gate and people were being gored.

Motorcycling entered its Golden Age. And it got crazier and crazier.

Murderous, almost unrideable monsters were built and ridden by wide-eyed, salivating beasts, and hospital wards and morgues grew fat on the failures.

But sales still boomed, and bikes got faster and crazier, and there was much rejoicing.

And then, somehow, someone shat in the delicious soup-bowl – and Safety became a thing. It became such a thing that it now governs everything.

It became so entrenched in our social conscience, many of us just surrendered and began to agree that if things were Safer, then things would be better.

Off the cliff you go, too.

Put your hand up if you took up riding bikes because it was safe.

Yeah, that’s what I thought.

Safety is death to the human soul.

We do our best work and we live our best lives when Safety has been shat upon, caution thrown to the winds, and we’re betting the pot.

And that’s where those gloriously sacred and crazy motorcycles come in.

Bikes that make no practical sense and which will kill you like a cockroach if you’re complacent. These are the best bikes ever built and we should be demanding more of them.

But we’re not – and because we’re not, the companies who build bikes will build more banal, gentle, and boringas-a-white-wall bikes, and price them so a homeless person can afford one.

And so is the crazy denatured, bit by bit.

Of course, there are still purists out there who build out-of-the-box lunacy – and while they do temper their

purity by also building two-wheeled cardigans, they still understand what the point of the spear must be.

Examples? Sure. There are tonnes of them…

The Rocket 3, the VMAX, the Panigale V4, the H2, anything Aprilia builds that’s 1000cc and up, most of the MV range (while it runs), and all the flagship superbike offerings from BMW, KTM, Yamaha, Suzuki, Honda, and Kawasaki. Indian got in on the act with its crazy magical FTR1200, and I’m hoping Harley will return to the playground once its current customer base dies off and it can start building stuff that actually goes fast, goes around corners, and doesn’t need the back of a truck to help out with the braking. That said, you can still get a shit-tonne of crazy out of a Harley provided you’re brave and your skill-set hasn’t been dulled by 1000 HOG runs.

So there’s still crazy bikes being built, thanks be to the Road Gods, but much of the crazy is now mitigated by computers, which give you a choice of how mental you want things to be. I’m good with that. Choices are important when madness is present.

But there are also bikes carved from boredom being sold – and being sold by the tonne. And that’s disturbing, because that’s not what makes motorcycling special.

Crazy is what makes motorcycling special.

And the world needs much more crazy in it if it’s to be worth living in.

D

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Australian Magazine

AVAILABLE AT ZINIO FOR YOUR APPLE OR ANDROID TABLET. SEARCH FOR US ON THE ZINIO WEBSITE OR VIA THE LINK ON OUR WEBSITE.

ADVERTISERS LISTING IFC, 3 – Royal Enfield

59 – Avon

OBC –

65 – Motorrad Tours

IBC – Ventura

77 – Rocky Creek Designs

7 – Kawasaki

91 – Eaglescreens

9 – Triumph

95 – Get Routed Motorcycle Transport

11 – Yamaha

97 - Innotesco

15 – Motorrad Garage

99 – Select Edge Motorcycle Accessories

21 – Edelweiss Bike Travel

105 – AMM Subscriptions

25 – Paradise Motorcycle Tours

106 – D Moto Motorcycle Engineering

37 – IMT Bike Tours & Rentals

106 – Borrie’s Book

39 – Ural

106 – Drinking The Rivers

49 – Adriatic Moto Tours

107 – Tour Directory

55 – Adventure Moto

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S I G N A TU R E B E A R

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AM0521.i

It’s not where you’re going ...

It’s how you get there.

Photo by Barnabas Imre

Join the EVOlution!

With the new style flat EVO rack and EVO packs.

Ventura is available from your local motorcycle store.

For more information visit www.kenma.com.au email: sales@kenma.com.au or phone (02)9484 0777

/KenmaAus

@KenmaAustralia

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BALLINA – KYOGLE, NSW

BALLINA TO KYOGLE AND BACK

This ride takes you west from Ballina, under the freeway at the junction and into the foothills of, I suppose, a southern outlier of the Border Ranges.

Snake your way up into the hills on the less than excellent but better than average roads and you will find some outstanding motorcycle corners. A local friend and countercultural guru (he used to be a lawyer) tells me to be careful around school start and closing times, as some of the pickup vehicles for the kiddies will be driven by mums who may have sampled herbal substances.

I pass that on as found, not having experienced any such problems myself.

This is an exhilarating part of the country. Don’t resist the urge to head off on some byroad to a waterfall or other natural attraction. One such diversion might take you to Federal, a thoroughly pleasant little spot with a general store-cum-café and a Japanese restaurant. I can vouch for the sushi.

Other byroads will just give you opportunities to wear away your hero pegs.

The blue route takes you over some

of the tighter roads to Kyogle, while the orange route takes you back over faster roads. There is no shortage of fuel stops, and the only real danger (apart from buying dud grass in Nimbin) is underestimating some of the corners and the wildlife (as well as the wild life, I guess).

Probably the most meaningful comment from me is that I would consider retiring up there.

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