Saks Fifth Avenue Men's Fall 2014 Collection

SAKS FIFTH AVENUE

MEN’S FALL 2013 COLLECTION Merchandising Plan Anne Chen Merchandising Parsons the New School for Design Fall 2013

Part I

Introduction and NCIS

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INTRODUCTION Numerous recent news articles and industry research show that there has been a revival of interest in men’s wear. According to Mr. Marshal Cohen, the Chief Industry Analyst of The NPD Group, “Not only are men getting their basics back in order, but it looks as though men are starting to spend outside of basics and join in the overall consumer trends that are focused on getting healthier and buying more comfortable lifestyle products” (The NPD Group Inc., 2011, para. 6).

The same article states that men’s categories, including tailored clothing, has risen over 30% as of February 2011, as male shoppers are more interested than ever in dressing well to communicate success and prestigious, despite the uncertain economy. A September update from CNN says that men’s wear has gained much popularity in recent years, with the category growing into a “$53 billion dollar business” in just the United States (am.blogs.cnn.com, 2011, para. 1). An article written by Simon Goodall for adage.com claims that current male consumers are “shopping more than ever”, with 84% of them purchasing their own clothes in 2006, a substantial increase since 2002’s 64% (Goodall, 2011, para. 1). Perhaps most illuminating is a report from WWD’s April Men’s Week Issue, in which Saks Fifth Avenue’s SVP Tom Ott commented on the young male shopper preferring contemporary and designer styles over traditional men’s products since the recession (Fairchild Fashion Group, 2011, para. 4). Thus, we wish to plan our merchandise assortment around such industry trends.

The following table and chart, provided from retailsails.com’s company profile on Saks Fifth Avenue, indicates the growth of sales in men’s wear from 2008 to 2010.

Our Product Category is Men’s Wear and our three primary classifications are Denim, Outerwear, and Sport coats, Suits & Vests. The research and study was based off the products strictly sold on Saks.com, these results do not include what is available at the stores.

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NAICS According to the “FAQs” section of the North American Industry Classification System’s Web site, “NAICS is a two-through six-digit hierarchical classification system, offering five levels of detail” (U.S. Census Bureau, 2011). In essence, the more digits in a code, the more detailed the classification. The system is utilized to classify “business establishments for the collection, tabulation, presentation, and analysis of statistical data describing the U.S. economy” (U.S. Census Bureau, 2011). It was created for statistical purposes, and also to provide Canada, the United States, and Mexico with the means of having a common classification system for the sake of analyzing their and each other’s economies and industrial productivities. The first two digits of a code represent the economic sector; the manufacturing sector, which we are interested in, is designated by “31”, for instance. The next digit shows the subsector – “315” thus represents “Apparel Manufacturing”. As stated by the Website of NAICS, “the fourth digit designates the industry group, the fifth digit designates the NAICS industry, and the sixth digit designates the national industry” (U.S. Census Bureau, 2011). The fourth digit in the code we are interested in is “2” – thus, the industry group is “Cut and Sew”. The fifth digit, which shows the NAICS industry, is also a “2”, and is used to signify “Men’s and Boys'” industry. Thus, so far, our five-digit code is “31522” (“Men’s and Boys’ Cut and Sew Apparel Manufacturing”). As the three primary product categories we wish to pursue in Men’s Wear are “Denim”, “Outerwear”, and “Sportcoats, Suits, and Vests”, there are three complete six-digit NAICS codes that we can look at: 315222 (“Men’s’ and Boys' Cut and Sew Suit, Coat, and Overcoat Manufacturing”), 315224 (“Men’s’ and Boys' Cut and Sew Trouser, Slack, and Jean Manufacturing”), and 315228 (“Men’s’ and Boys' Cut and Sew Other Outerwear Manufacturing”). If we wished to incorporate some knitwear into our outerwear, the NAICS code we would look at is the one for “Outerwear Knitting Mills”, which is 315191. If we wished to incorporate leather into any of our pieces, the NAICS code we would look at is the one for “Fur and Leather Apparel Manufacturing” (except for apparel contracting), which is 315292.

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Part II

Product Categories

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OVERVIEW We are pursuing a collection that is not only versatile and communicates great style, but is also durable and can last our customers for more than a single season. It is also important that the collection allows wearers to easily transition from day to night.

The collection will be a harmonious marriage between casualness and elitism. Pieces will thus be able to be worn by those in the Young Digerati and Money & Brains segments alike, as both the younger and older generations are seeking clothes that offer both versatility and fashion to communicate their cultured tastes and refined lifestyles.

The collection will include smartly tailored jackets, as well as warm outerwear, that are easy to throw over button-down shirts or even a simple sweater. It will also include quality denim pants that will provide customers with long-lasting value. According to an article on Lifestyle Monitor, “consumers see the value in paying a little more for a jean that will fit better and last longer” (“Supply Chain Insights: Denim Jeans: State of the U.S. Market”, para. 6) – indeed, jeans are seen as an worthy investment to many shoppers, and well-received denim products in our collection will thus help ensure customer loyalty and future sales.

Examples of overall looks that can be created using pieces in our collection can be captured by the following images, which can be found on Saks’ Website, of Burberry London and Burberry Brit ensembles. They emphasize casual cool and relaxed luxury.

Burberry London

Burberry Brit

“for the natty chap”

“for the boundary defier”

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Page 20 delves further into the different categorizations of each product category, listing the designer brands, fabrications, and colors available under each category, as well as the number of items available for each brand, fabrication, and color.

DENIM It is evident that the most utilized fabrication for denim jeans is cotton or cotton/denim, though a substantial number of denim jeans carried by Saks Fifth Avenue are also made of cotton/elastin. The majority of denim jeans are straight styles, and most are designed by contemporary designers, with 7 For All Mankind offering the greatest number of jeans. Most jeans are in the color blue, so our collection should focus on this color, though we will incorporate other colors, such as black and grey, to give customers a varied selection.

OUTERWEAR Most of the outerwear offered at Saks is made of down or quilted fabrics, though wool and cashmere products are also abundant. Outerwear can also utilize fur as a trim, and toggle closures as detailing. Trench coat styles will also be offered, and will be made of wool blends as well as cashmere. It is essential that outwear keep our customer warm as well as looking chic. Leather jacket styles as well as bomber jacket styles will also be offered, as these are pieces that customers enjoy wearing to not only keep out the cold but to look cool and edgy.

Black is the most common outerwear color, and this keeps with our collection’s overall palette of muted, dark colors. However, it is also important to incorporate some color, as an article on Fashion Trendsetter discusses the popularity of contrasting bright hues with darker ones when it comes to men’s wear; even a bold slash of color can make a garment or an entire outfit stand out among others (Nunes, para. 2). Perhaps a colorful belt thrown over a charcoal grey trench coat, or a vivid plaid scarf tucked into a black coat’s collar, will be considered.

SPORTS COATS, SUITS & VESTS Most of the pieces in the sports coats, suits & vests product category are made of wool, or of wool in combination with another fabric, such as cashmere, cotton, or Lycia. The most common color again is black.

Our collection will focus on less-dressy pieces, instead of full suits and tuxedo ensembles, such as casual blazers that can easily transition from day to nightwear. Plaid is a pattern that will be considered, as this a pattern that is featured often in Saks’ bestsellers category. Sweater vest styles can also utilize interesting, unique patterns, such as jacquard patterns or striped patterns.

Button details should also be emphasized, and special attention should be paid to lapels and collar detailing. Leather lapels on jackets/vests would add certain uniqueness to a style. Fit is especially important – suits and vests should be well-tailored and utilize data from past season’s measurements of best sellers in menswear.

Deeper dives into each product category are outlined below. For further breakdowns of each category, please refer to page 20.

DENIM The various styles that men’s denim has are boot cut, straight, and slim. Bootcut denim have a wider leg on the bottom and are not snug fit. Straight denim has the same fit and almost looks identical except for the fact the leg on the bottom is slightly narrower. Slim jeans are men’s

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version of women’s skinny jeans, which means that they are snug fit and are really narrow at the leg. The colors that are available for denim are black, blue, grey, tan, and brown. There are 4 black jeans, 22 blue jeans, 7 grey jeans, 1 tan jean, and 1 brown jean available on Saks.com. Based on these results, the colors that seem to predominate are dark colors because blue jeans and grey jeans have the most inventory. The ratio of solid to prints in the case of denim is 10:1, meaning there are no prints on denim available for men and that solid is the most popular in the denim category. The primary fabrics that men’s denim is made out of are cotton, elastene, and polyester. The top five brands for men’s denim are 7 for all Mankind, True Religion, Joe’s, AG Adriano Goldschmied, and J Brand.

OUTERWEAR The various styles that men’s outerwear has are down & quilted, wool, cashmere, leather, trench coats, raincoats, and vests. The colors that are available for outerwear are beige, black, blue, brown, green, grey, orange, red, tan, white, and yellow. There are 8 beige, 147 black, 40 blue, 23 brown, 16 green, 40 grey, 3 multicolor, 1 orange, 6 red, 8 tan, 1 white, and 1 yellow available in outerwear. Based on these results the colors that seem to predominate are dark colors because black, blue, grey, and brown have the most inventory.

The ratio of solid to prints in the case of outerwear is 9.7:1, which to our surprise there were six printed outerwear items available. They are a red plaid printed puffer jacket from DSquared, two check printed pea coats from Dolce & Gabbana, two lightweight Gucci Jackets with the Gucci logo monogram look, and lastly a tromp plaid vest from McQ. Even though there a few printed outerwear items there still remains a dominance of solid color outerwear in the men’s department. The primary fabrics that seem to be used in men’s outerwear are wool, nylon, polyester, and cotton. The top five brands for men’s outerwear are Andrew Marc, Burberry Brit, Armani Collezioni, RLX Ralph Lauren, and Moncler.

SPORTS COATS, SUITS & VESTS The various styles that men’s sports coats, suits & vests section has are blazers, vests, and suits. The colors that are available in this category are 21 black, 16 grey, 14 blue, 3 brown, 2 multicolor, 1 purple, and 1 green. Based on these results, once again the colors that seem to predominate are dark colors because black and grey dominate the majority. The ratio of solid to prints in the case of sports coats, suits & vests are 9:1, meaning that solid colors are the most popular in this category. The primary fabrics that are used in men’s sports coats, suits & vests are wool, wool crepe, cashmere, and polyamide. The top five brands for are Armani Collezioni, Boss Black, Saks Fifth Avenue Men’s Collection, Versace Collection, and Marc by Marc Jacobs.

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Part III

Size Range and Design Details

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SIZE RANGE Our research from our consumer profiling indicates that the Saks Fifth Avenue shopper who lives within the 10022 zip code lives a fit, fashionable, and healthy lifestyle. According to Medical News Today, the average American man has a 34 inch waist (Medical News Today, para. 8). Fit, active male consumers who patron Saks Fifth Avenue would thus probably wear Medium or Largesize outerwear pieces and jackets. The following was taken from Saks Fifth Avenue’s “Men’s General Sizing Guide”, which can be found on the retailer’s Website.

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DESIGN DETAILS Design details we wish to consider were briefly mentioned before, and are noted and further described below, utilizing images of “Best Sellers” from the Saks Fifth Avenue Website.

According to a ny.racked.com article written by Frank Gargione, Saks Fifth Avenue actually dedicated a whole store-front window display to men’s wear, featuring a collection by Viktor & Rolf (Gargione, 2010, par. 1). The “super-preppy” and affordable pieces from Michael Bastian’s “Gant” collection, as well as contemporary lines from the likes of Rag & Bone and Marc by Marc Jacobs, have been performing very well, and we thus derive much of our design considerations from such designers.

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Denim

blue resin-wash tint, five-pocket style

stitched knee detail

Rag & Bone

Gant by Michael Bastian

COTTON SLIM STRAIGHT-LEGGED JEANS $185

COTTON SKI-STYLE STRAIGHT-LEG JEANS $295

Above are examples of the straight leg style, which is the most common style offered by Saks Fifth Avenue in their denim category. Best sellers are comprised mainly of dark-washed styles, though some styles utilize gentle stone-washing such that the denim’s natural crosshatching can be readily seen. Fit is relaxed and comfortable. Below is an example of a pair of 7 For All Mankind jeans, which feature a five-pocket style and are made from cotton. As mentioned before, most denim products offered in the merchandise assortment of Saks Fifth Avenue are made from cotton/cotton denim, though some styles do have elastin or spandex as well. Jeans are essential to any man’s wardrobe, as they are comfortable and easy to pair with almost any top. A good pair of jeans, moreover, can last for more than one season.

zip fly

hand-sanding, whiskers, and chevron detailing at the knees

7 For All Mankind COTTON HOLLOMAN N RELAXED STRAIGHT-LEG JEANS $189

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Other denim styles include boot cut and slim. Back pocket embroidery detail should also be considered, as it gives a pair of jeans uniqueness and edginess. Colors other than blue, such as the light grey shown in the 7 For All Mankind pair below, should also be considered to provide variety in the collection. An interesting faded wash, a longtime favorite among customers, should also be included in the collection.

True Religion COTTON RICKY EMBORIDERED STRAIGHT-LEG JEANS $235

7 For All Mankind 90% COTTON/8% POLYESTER/2% SPANDEX NATE SLIM BOOTCUT JEANS $189

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D-Squared COTTON/ELASTIN SLIM-FIT JEANS/GREY $450

Denim prices range from $98 to $590, depending on the fabrication, wash, and detailing of the pant. Of course, the cheapest pair of jeans is the simplest – a black-washed, cotton pair with a classic fit and five-pocket style by Polo Ralph Lauren. The most expensive is a slim-fitted pair with contrast stitching and a dark stone washed finish by Gucci. 7 styles fall within the $50 to $150 range; 161 styles fall within the $150 to $300 range; 17 styles fall within the $300 to $500 range; and 2 styles fall within the $500 to $1,000 range. As most jeans are priced in the $150 to $300 range, and those that are priced higher belong to prestigious luxury brands, such as Gucci and Dior, it would be best to price our collection’s denim more reasonably – for instance, around $165 or $198 – as our collection is part of our private label brand.

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Outerwear As wool is one of the most popular fabric used in Saks’ outerwear category, we will focus our fabrication for the outerwear pieces in our collection on wool. Details to be considered include interesting closures, such as the toggle closures seen in the below examples from Rag & Bone and Viktor & Rolf. toggle closures side zip pockets over-sized toggle closure

hooded back

waist zip pockets

Rag & Bone

Viktor & Rolf

VIRGIN WOOL MILES DUFFLE COAT $695

BOILED WOOL TOGGLE COAT $1,795

Pocket detailing will also be important in our collection. Leather jackets, for instance, will feature waist zip pockets and well as chest zip pockets.

banded collar

soft-knit wool w/ a fine hand and reverse seaming allover

double-zip front

zip front w/ snap storm flap

chest, waist zip pockets

dual entry pockets

sleeve zips adjustable waist tabs

Rag & Bone

D-Squared

60% WOOL / 38% POLYAMIDE / 2% ELASTIN BERGAN JACKET $395

LEATHER (FULLY LINED) PATCHED LEATHER BOMBER JACKET $1,795

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This two-tone, wool-blend Armani Collezioni trench provides a great example of an interesting and unique coat that our male shoppers will favor. It also features a touch of cashmere, as well as a detachable hood. Other details, similar to the ones seen in this trench, which we may consider for the trenches in our collection include a buckle neck tab, a single-breasted button front, a one button flap chest pocket, front angled flap pockets, a back slit hem, and buckle tabs on the sleeve. Trenches will also have a buckle/tie belt.

Details to notice on this Andrew Marc Moto Rad Racer Leather Jacket include a band collar with snap close, a zip front, snap cuffs, angled front zip pockets snap tabs at the waist, an embossed lining, and ribbing at the shoulder and elbows. Such features create an overall sleek and refined jacket made from Italian leather.

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Saks’ trench and raincoats are priced from $138 to $2,250. 3 coats fall within the range of $50 to $150; 12 are priced between $150 to $300; 13 cost between $300 to $500; 28 are priced between $500 and $1,000; 7 cost between $1,000 to $2,000; and 1 costs over $2,000. Leather jackets are priced from $495 to $4,300, with 9 priced between $300 and $500; 17 priced between $500 to $1,000; 10 priced between $1,000 to $2,000; 7 priced over $2,000. As we are creating a private label collection, we should keep our prices in the lower price tier, pricing our trenches between $500 and $700 and our leather jackets between $500 and $700 as well.

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Sports coats, Suits & Vests The vests and blazers in our collection should have unique features, such as the colorblocked back seen in the below Marc by Marc Jacobs woven vest (top), or the pocket square seen in the Scotch & Soda denim blazer (bottom).

color-blocked back decorative chest, with button front and waist pockets

Marc by Marc Jacobs 80% WOOL / 20% POLYESTER WOVEN VEST $298

gently rumpled denim w/ a halfconstructed silhouette pocket square single button closure chest, waist patch pockets decorative chest, with button front and waist pockets

Scotch & Soda 54% COTTON / 46% LINEN DENIM BLAZER $192

To keep costs down, we should utilize wool as well in our sport coats, suits, and vests. As we are not focusing on entire dinner party suit ensembles, but instead on jackets that can make an easy transition from day to night, blazers should be casual yet stylish at the same time.

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The below Herringbone wool blazer by Burberry Brit, priced at $595, features details that should be considered for the blazers in our collection. These include a two-button closure, a rear vent, a chest welt, and waist flap pockets. Such a modern jacket may be easily paired with a pair of jeans from our collection as well.

Introducing a print in one of our blazers, such as the plaid print shown below in the Saks Fifth Avenue Men’s Collection plaid wool/silk blazer, would provide variety to our collection. The style has a well-defined finish thanks to the hint of silk in the fabric composition. Other details include a two-button closure, a chest ticket pocket, waist flap pockets, side vents, and full lining. It is priced at $698, and the blazers in our collection should be priced around the same.

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Sport coats, suits, and vests offered at Saks Fifth Avenue are priced from $125 to $3,100, with the most expensive jacket being an evening jacket made from cotton tulfan velvet by Gucci. 2 styles are priced between $50 and $150; 4 between $150 and $300; 17 between $300 and $500; 17 between $500 and $1,000; 13 between $1,000 and $2,000; and 2 priced over $2,000. Our collection’s blazers should be priced around $700 to $1,000, while our vests should be priced around $200 to $400.

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Denim 7 FOR ALL MANKIND (39) A.P.C. (2) AG ADRIANO GOLDSCHMIED (15) ARMANI COLLEZIONI (2) BOSS BLACK (4) BRIONI (2) BURBERRY BRIT (4) BURBERRY LONDON (4) D SQUARED (3) DIESEL (5) DIOR HOMME (2) DOLCE & GABBANA (1) EARNEST SEWN (5) ELIE TAHARI (2) GANT BY MICHAEL BASTIAN (1) GANT RUGGER (1) GUCCI (1) HUDSON (13) J BRAND (19)

Total: 228 Items

Designer Brands JOE'S (18) LACOSTE (1) LEVI'S MADE & CRAFTED (4) MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA (1) MARC BY MARC JACOBS 95) MCQ ALEXANDER MCQUEEN (1) MICHAEL KORS (3) POLO RALPH LAUREN (8) RAG & BONE (2) RALPH LAUREN BLACK LABEL (2) ROBERT GRAHAM (1) SPURR (2) THEORY (2) TRUE RELIGION (21) VERSACE COLLECTION (4) VIKTOR & ROLF (2) VINCE (3) ZEGNA SPORT (2)

Fabrications

Colors

Styles

Lifestyle

COTTON/COTTON DENIM (123) COTTON/ELASTENE (43) COTTON/ELASTIC (2) COTTON/LINEN (2) COTTON/LINO (1) COTTON/LYCRA (3) COTTON/POLYESTER (8) COTTON/POLYESTER/ELASTENE (2) COTTON/POLYESTER/SPANDEX (3) COTTON/POLYURETRHANE (6) COTTON/SPANDEX (14)

BEIGE (2) BLACK (17) BLUE (155) BROWN (4) GREEN (2) GREY (15) RED (1) SILVER (1) TAN (4) WHITE (2)

BOOTCUT (20) STRAIGHT (160) SLIM (42)

PREMIERE DESIGNER (19) CONTEMPORARY (146) MODERN (28)

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Outerwear

Total: 260 Items

Designer Brands

611 SAKS FIFTH AVENUE NEW YORK (2) 7 FOR ALL MANKIND (2) A.P.C. (3) ANDREW MARC (14) ARMANI COLLEZIONI (11) BOSS BLACK (5) BOSS GREEN (1) BURBERRY BRIT (18) BURBERRY SPORT (1) COLE HAAN (8) CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION (1) COLE HAAN (8) CONVERSE BLACK CANVAS (3) D SQUARED (6) DIESEL (6) DIORE HOMME (3) DOLCE & GABBANA (3) ELIE TAHARI (5) GANT BY MICHALE BASTIAN (1) GANT RUGGER (5) GUCCI (17) HUGO (2) HUNTER (3) JIL SANDER (2) LACOSTE (3)

LACOSTE LIVE (1) MACKAGE (8) MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA (4) MARC BY MARC JACOBS (4) MCQ ALEXANDER MCQUEEN (2) MICHAEL KORS (11) MONCLER (10) POLO RALPH LAUREN (8) RAG & BONE (6) RALPH LAUREN BLACK LABEL (9) RLX RALPH LAUREN (17) ROBERT GRAHAM (1) SAKS FIFTH AVENUE MEN'S COLLECTION (3) SALVATORE FERRAGAMO (4) SANYO (4) SCOTCH & SODA (5) SOL ANGELES (1) STEVEN ALAN (2) THEORY (5) TRUE RELIGION (2) UGG AUSTRALIA (4) VERSACE COLLECTION (5) VIKTOR & ROLF (3) VINCE (6) VINEYARD VINES (2)

Fabrications

Colors

Lifestyle

DOWN & QUILTED (82) WOOL, CASHMERE & MORE (72) LEATHER & MORE (43) TRENCHCOATS & RAINCOATS (68) VESTS (25)

BEIGE (10) BLACK (119) BLUE (49) BROWN (13) GREEN (15) GREY (41) MULTICOLOR (3) ORANGE (3) RED (6) TAN (6) WHITE (2)

PREMIERE DESIGNER (67) CONTEMPORARY (125) MODERN (99)

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Sport Coats, Suits & Vests

Designer Brands

611 SAKS FIFTH AVENUE NEW YORK (3) A.P.C. (1) ARMANI COLLEZIONI (9) BOSS BLACK (2) BURBERRY BRIT (1) BURBERRY LONDON (1) COMPANY OF WE (1) DIOR HOMME (1) DOLCE & GABBANA (3) ELIE TAHARI (1) GANT RUGGER (2) GUCCI (4) HUGO (1) MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA (1) MARC BY MARC JACOBS (3) MICHAEL KORS (1) RAG & BONE (2) RALPH LAUREN BLACK LABEL (2) ROBERT GRAHAM (1) SAKS FIFTH AVENUE CROWN LABEL (1) SAKS FIFTH AVENUE MEN'S COLLECTION (4) SCOTCH & SODA (1) THEORY (3) VERSACE COLLECTION (3) VIKTOR & ROLF (2) VINCE (1)

Total: 60

Fabrications

SPORTCOATS & VESTS (52) SUITS (8)

Colors

BEIGE (1) BLACK (21) BLUE (16) BROWN (3) GREEN (1) GREY (14) MULTICOLOR (2) PURPLE (1)

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Lifestyle

PREMIERE DESIGNER (25) CONTEMPORARY (20) MODERN (17)

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The Men’s Store. Saks Fifth Avenue. 2011. Web. 15, Oct. 2011. <http://www.saksfifthavenue.com/main/SectionPage.jsp?catID=2534374306418052 &FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374306418052&prp8=t1&PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_ id=845524446419320&bmUID=jc78hMp&tre=msnav3> The NPD Group Inc. “A healthy growth rate in menswear category.” Corporate News.

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Manufacturing Sectors: Apparel Manufacturing. North American Industry Classification System. 13, April. 2011. Web Download. 14, Oct. 2011. <http://www.census.gov/prod/ec07/07numlist/07numlist.html> U.S. Census Bureau. “Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs).” North American Industry Classification System. 13, April. 2011. Web. 13, Oct. 2011. <http://www.census.gov/eos/www/naics/faqs/faqs.html>

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