Charitable Traveller Magazine - October/November 2021- Issue 7 by Charitable Traveller Magazine

50% travel, 50% charity, 100% meaningful

50% travel, 50% charity, 100% meaning October/November 2021 ISSUE 7

Sea change As destinations continue to open up, soaking up some winter sun never looked so tempting...

HELP AFGHANISTAN

Five charities on the ground and making a difference

GO TO TOWN

European city breaks which don't follow the crowds

GET FESTIVE

Discover some sparkling places for Christmas shopping

Foreign

FEELS FROM THE EDITOR

Laura Gelder

Let me guess… that cover picture has left you salivating for the sun? Sorry about that. But unlike this time last year, at least a hot holiday is a possibility! Turn to page 53 for some winter sun inspiration. I’ve enjoyed my summer of staycations, but as autumn begins I’m in full foreign-holiday-planning-mode – my favourite mode to be in. Writing a feature on my short stay in Tokyo (page 45) has prompted me to start planning the Japan holiday I should have taken in 2020. I fell in love with the country from the moment I stepped off the plane because everything was so thrillingly strange but comfortingly

If you ask me, poking around a foreign supermarket is one of the greatest joys of a holiday... recognisable at the same time – take the Kit Kats, which come in wasabi and cherry blossom flavours. It might seem strange to remember such a trivial thing but sometimes it’s the little things. If you ask me, poking around a foreign supermarket is one of the greatest joys of a holiday; discovering new Fanta flavours and buying some weird crisps, it’s all a cultural experience and one to savour. This issue has lots more city inspiration, including our pick of offthe-beaten track cities in Europe (page 12), whether you’re looking to widen your horizons or get away from the crowds. And let’s not forget our charity heroes, from a woman who trains dogs to look after Autistic children (page 25), to a social enterprise converting buses into rehabilitation centres for homeless people (page 34). There are so many good people in the world!

©CHARITABLE TRAVEL 2021. CHARITABLE TRAVELLER is part of CHARITABLE TRAVEL, Fundraising Futures Community Interest Company, Contingent Works, Broadway Buildings, Elmfield Road, Bromley, BR1 1LW, UK. Putting our profit to work supporting the work of charitable causes. T: 020 3092 1288 E: bookings@charitable.travel W: charitable.travel Whilst every effort is made to ensure accuracy, CHARITABLE TRAVEL cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions. FRONT COVER: Tres Trapi Steps Beach, Aruba CREDIT: istockphoto.com. CEO: Melissa Tilling; MARKETING: Rosie Buddell, Ally Ware & Adam Pedley; SALES: Ali Nicholls; MAGAZINE EDITOR: Laura Gelder; MAGAZINE DESIGNER: Louisa Horton (louisacreative@outlook.com)

OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2021

INSIDE

this issue 5 11 12

23 24 25 28 30

Get the picture Armchair travel Alternative Cities: Avoid the crowds and discover Europe’s less-visited cities Five... European Christmas markets Postcard from: Austin, USA A day in the life of... Tracey Moore from Support Dogs Get to know: Qatar Travel talk with... Giles Hawke, CEO of Cosmos, on its Lighthouse Project

31 32 34 36

Four views of... The Philippines In numbers: Men’s health with Movember Q&A with: Buses4Homeless Travel talk with... Mark Bibby Jackson on eco-tourism in Tanzania Why I donated to... Forever Angels

44 Five... charities in Afghanistan 45 Tokyo: Old meets new 50 Get to know: Québec 52 Postcard from: The Pacific 53 Five... off-the-beaten track winter sun spots 54 48 hours in... York 56 Top ten: Uniquely luxurious Caribbean resorts 60 Global good news

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GET THE

picture

‘tis the season to be cosy

As the nights draw in and the evenings become a little crisper, it’s time to embrace autumn. The season of pumpkin patches, woollen knits and rustling leaves opens up the chance for a different kind of holiday, focused on rest and relaxation. After all, if you’re planning to spend the day by the fire with a book and a hot chocolate, there’s no need to even check the weather forecast! Get in touch with our travel advisors for holiday ideas which take in autumn colours, spooky Halloween-themed breaks and stunning boutique bolt-holes, perfect for cosying up.

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Get the picture

The eagle has landed

The United States is back on the menu for British and EU passport holders as of November 1. The new regime will require travellers to demonstrate proof of vaccination before flying, obtain a negative Covid-19 test result within three days of travelling, and provide their contact information, but they will not be required to quarantine. The relaxed rules don’t apply to land borders and some details are still being fleshed out but the fact remains: the U.S is open and that means that travellers can significantly expand their horizons. charitable.travel/ north-america

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Get the picture

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Our footprints

may look a bit

different over here

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Get the picture

True blue wonder

Michael Haluwana / OceanPhotographyAwards.com

This is the winning shot which crowned Aimee Jan as Ocean Photographer of the Year 2021. She spotted the green turtle, framed by a school of glass fish, on Western Australia’s Ningaloo Reef. The world’s largest fringing reef is steps off the beach at Exmouth or Coral Bay and has over 300 types of coral and 500 species of fish, rays, dolphins and turtles. In July you can swim with humpback whales, whale sharks and oceanic manta rays. The awards support non-profit SeaLegacy and shine a light on the beauty of the ocean and the threats it faces. An open air exhibition of photos near London’s Tower Bridge runs until October 17.

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Canada Is Back Some things are worth waiting for!

Western Canada Explorer

Canadian Rockies Explorer & Alaska Cruise

Highlights: Vancouver - Victoria - Rocky Mountains - Jasper - Banff

Highlights: Banff - Rocky Mountains Vancouver - Alaska Cruise

Travel : 5 May 22

Travel : 1 May 22

11 Nights

£3645pp

14 Nights

£3765pp

Canadian Rockies Discovery & Calgary Stampede

Mountains to Ocean Self Drive

Highlights: Calgary Stampede - Banff - Rocky Mountains - Vancouver - Victoria

Highlights: Banff - Revelstoke - Kelowna Vancouver

Travel : 11 Jul 22

Travel : 1 May 22

12 Nights

£4035pp

7 Nights

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For more information and to book www.charitable.travel/travelpack | Telephone 020 3092 1288

GORDON, GINO AND FRED GO GREEK ITV

Following their last outing, an American road trip, chefs Gordon Ramsey and Gino D’Acampo and First Dates’ Fred Sirieix set out to travel across Greece in their vintage VW camper, immersing themselves in the nation’s culinary traditions. Expect bromance, bickering and lots of eating. The trio will visit Crete, Santorini, Mykonos, Athens and Meteora, with jet ski racing and shipwreck diving thrown in for good measure.

THE POWER OF GEOGRAPHY: TEN MAPS THAT REVEAL THE FUTURE OF OUR WORLD By Tim Marshall

The follow on from global bestseller Prisoners of Geography, which showed how nations are limited by mountains, rivers, seas and concrete, this reveals the ten regions that are set to shape future global politics. That is: Australia, Iran, Saudi Arabia, the UK, Greece, Turkey, the Sahel (the transitional zone between the Sahara and the savanna) Ethiopia, Spain and Space. Find out why the Middle East must look beyond oil and sand to secure its future, and much more.

Book

ARMCHAIR

travel time

A farcical foodie adventure, a look at how geography shapes politics, a hopeful manifesto on climate change and James Bond is back

THE BOOK OF HOPE: A SURVIVAL GUIDE FOR AN ENDANGERED PLANET By Jane Goodall and Douglas Abrams

Book

The renowned naturalist and conservationist, famous for her chimpanzee encounters and environmental campaigning, writes about how to find strength in the face of the climate crisis and why she has hope. In conversations with Doug Abrams that weave together stories from her travels and activism, she offers readers a new understanding of the crisis and a compelling path forward for us all to create hope for the world.

NO TIME TO DIE

The 25th Bond film is finally out in cinemas and this time it really is the last for Daniel Craig. The film is set five years after the capture of the legendary baddie Blofeld, when Bond has left active service but he’s enlisted by a CIA officer to find a missing scientist. As usual, Bond is left to confront an evil villain (played by Rami Malek). Exotic film locations include Matera, a striking Italian town of grey stone, home to hundreds of underground homes carved into the hilltop, plus Jamaica, the Faroe Islands, Scotland’s Cairngorms and a frozen Norway.

Film

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Alternative European Cities

New urban legends Perhaps you’ve already visited Europe’s capitals, or you’re looking for a city break away from the crowds? Either way, has gathered a list of ‘alternative cities’ that will excite and entertain just as much as the famous ones

Laura Gelder

AROS ART MUSEUM

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Alternative European Cities

d your n Fin

city brea

t ex

AARHUS instead of Copenhagen

c o l o u r fu l cul ture

Denmark’s second city really packs a punch when it comes to museums and galleries and has exciting dining and lovely outdoor spaces, but you’ll find it more relaxed and less pricey than Copenhagen. Cultural highlights include ARoS, the contemporary art museum whose rainbow walkway can be seen from all over town and Den Gamle By, an open-air museum with a historic reconstructed market town. Explore the Latin Quarter’s half-timbered houses containing cool cafes, restaurants, galleries and shops and Aarhus Ø, the redeveloped harbour area with its space-age Iceberg building plus hidden bars, harbour swimming baths and promenades. And there are many more hip neighbourhoods, bursting with Nordic cuisine and craft beer.

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Conservation through Education

In 2020, Chombe one of our former students, held 200 meetings and met thousands of people teaching them about conservation and wildlife. He helped plant 11,000 trees and harvest 3,000 kilos of honey. We fund young Africans to achieve the qualifications needed to work in conservation. Please help us make more Chombes.

Alternative European Cities

cinematic sunsets ZADAR instead of Dubrovnik

Dodge the Game of Thrones fans in Dubrovnik and head to Zadar, the oldest continuouslyinhabited city in Croatia, where Roman and Venetian history washes together by the seaside. Just like Dubrovnik, Zadar has a beautiful Old Town with warm terracotta roofs, streets worn shiny with footsteps and picturesque buildings, including a lovely Venetian gate, the austerely beautiful circular church of St Donat’s and the ruined columns of the Roman Forum built by Emporer Augustus (head to the Archaeological Museum to see what it looked like whole). Alfred Hitchcock famously raved about the cinematic sunsets in Zadar, best seen sinking into the sea from the promenade, with some of the city’s excellent gelato in your hand. For extra atmosphere head to the Sea Organ, a strange attraction by artist Nikola Bašić that put Zadar on the map. It’s a series of holes in the pavement that emit bizarre but strangely soothing noises powered by the strength and frequency of the waves. Bašić also harnessed solar power to create The Greeting to the Sun, a huge circular light installation putting on a spectacular multi-faceted show after dark and drawing people to a natural seaside disco.

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Alternative European Cities

LYON instead of Paris

Two hours from the city of love by a highspeed TGV train, Lyon is the gastronomic capital of France and a city which blends old and new perhaps better than Paris. Lyon’s location makes it a hub for agricultural produce; it sits at the crossroads of the country’s regional cuisines and it was once a trading centre where exotic ingredients were imported – so no wonder the city is home to 17 Michelin-starred restaurants! But even humble Lyonnaise brasseries serve delectable meals. Try poulet de Bresse, a renowned chicken dish usually served in a creamy mushroom sauce. When you’re not browsing food markets or bars (Lyon is within sniffing distance of several wine regions), admire the city’s architecture. There’s a Roman amphitheatre; many beautiful basilicas; the ancient Saint-Pierre Palace which houses a fine art museum and the spaceship-like Musée des Confluences, a state-of-the-art science museum in a cool regenerated industrial area wedged between the Saône and Rhône rivers.

old meets new

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Alternative European Cities

seaside delights SAN SEBASTIAN instead of Barcelona

Offering the same delectable city and beach combination as Barcelona, glamorous San Sebastián is more chilled out and famous for food. The Basque city spreads around two fine, sandy bays and is blessed with elegant art nouveau buildings and pretty parks and plazas. Hop between Pintxo bars to sample as much of the Basque-style mini tapas as you can, from simple grilled octopus on a stick to gourmet chorizo with cider, washed down with the local bubbly, txakoli.

GDANSK instead of Krakow

At the opposite end of Poland to Krakow, the Baltic port of Gdansk has grand, colourful buildings like the southern city but the architecture in the compact and maze-like old town is Dutch-style. Mariacka Street is a cobbled avenue which connects the riverfront with its medieval crane and pretty row houses, to the gothic St. Mary’s Basilica. It’s lined with cosy cafes and amber jewellers. The impressive Museum of World War Two is packed with thought-provoking exhibits while the murals adorning the communist-era towers of the Gdansk Zaspa district are for those who like to go off-beat.

living history

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Alternative European Cities

GOTHENBURG instead of Stockholm Sweden’s second-largest city has an understated, hip vibe with pretty neoclassical architecture lined along its historic canals and buzzing, creative communities. Hit the cobbled streets and wooden buildings of Haga, where you can shop for vintage clothes or enjoy fika – coffee, and maybe a cinnamon bun, with a friend. Långgatorna is packed full of pumping bars and clubs while the city’s botanical gardens meander peacefully along the banks of Rosenlund Canal.

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Alternative European Cities

UTRECHT instead of Amsterdam Winding canals lined with trees and tall, gabled houses? Tick. Exciting art and music? Tick. Café culture and funky bars? Tick. Utrecht, just south of Amsterdam might not have all these things in the same volume as the Dutch capital, but you’ll find it easier to get between all its great attractions and less crowds. Start in the Medieval centre and climb to the top of the Dom Tower, a 15th century church which offers views of Amsterdam and Rotterdam on a clear day. Walk the canals to find waterside cafes and characterful shops. Cultural highlights include the Centraal Museum which has everything from fashion to Renaissance paintings and the Miffy Museum, a tribute to the cartoon bunny’s creator who was born here. Hop on a bike (Utrecht is home to the world’s largest multi-storey bike park) and explore diverse districts like Lombok, home to the ‘techno mosque’ with its neon minarets and Kanaalstraat, famous for Turkish and Moroccan eateries.

cafe culture

ROOM TO

EXPLORE

Discover more at charitable.travel/phoenix/

Alternative European Cities

HAMBURG instead of Berlin

port of cool

Beautiful and gritty all at once, Hamburg is just as grand and just as cool as the German capital and has dozens of diverse neighbourhoods to explore. Altstadt is the historic heart of Hamburg, dominated by the City Hall and its soaring clock tower. In the historic warehouse district, Speicherstadt, handsome red brick warehouses line glassy canals. In contrast, next door is Hafen City, a huge urban regeneration area including Elbphilharmonie, a glass concert hall built on an old warehouse. If you’re looking for nightlife then St. Pauli has it, including Europe’s longest party street, the brash neon Reeperbahn and its seedy bars, sex shops and clubs. For a hipster vibe head to Sternschanze, where scruffy but inviting pubs line graffiti-scrawled streets. More upscale is leafy Eppendorf with its Art Nouveau buildings and fancy bars and restaurants. You can also just relax, in one of the city’s parks like the pretty Planten un Blomen, by the lake or by the river, where a maritime panorama awaits.

HELP US ADVANCE ANIMAL WELFARE... For over 30 years, Naturewatch Foundation has been tackling animal cruelty, acting as the voice for animals in a world where many choose not to listen. We peacefully campaign against several homegrown issues including puppy farming, animal experiments and wildlife crime. Our work extends into Ukraine, where our team run police education programmes, as well as funding spay and neuter services to humanely support the stray dog population. Naturewatch Foundation leads the World Animal Day movement on October 4. It’s a day of unity, which draws attention to animal welfare issues worldwide by encouraging people to organise and participate in events to improve animal welfare standards.

PUPPY FARMING

WORLD ANIMAL DAY

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...IN THE UK AND AROUND THE WORLD ANIMAL EXPERIMENTS

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Alternative European Cities

pretty canals

AVEIRO instead of Lisbon

This handsome town on the edge of a lagoon is known as the Venice of Portugal thanks to its picturesque canals, but can be compared to Lisbon for its colourful Art Nouveau buildings. A stay in Aveiro wouldn’t be complete without a ride on a moliceiro (the city’s answer to a gondola but a tenth of the price) and you must try the local bean and whelk stew as well as ovos moles, a sweet made with sugar and eggs that rivals Lisbon’s custard tarts.

curiously quirky

BRNO instead of Prague

The capital of the Moravia region is giving partying Prague a run for its money thanks to a student population who ensure lively nightlife. Brno has opulent churches and stately pastel houses just like the Czech capital, but it’s kooky. While Prague’s astronomical clock is engraved with ornate symbols, Brno’s is a phallic black stone which pops out marbles at 11am, the time that Brno thwarted a siege. Below the charming streets of the city lies a sinister history. Under the Cabbage Market are former torture chambers (and a pub) and the Church of St James’ hides spooky vaults of bones second only to Paris’.

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Alternative European Cities

BOLOGNA instead of Venice

Europe’s oldest University Town can give Venice a run for its historical money and its heartbreakingly beautiful terracotta skyline looks like an oil painting. But it’s also described as Italy’s culinary capital (where do you think our beloved bolognaise came from?) and is home to a thriving student population who keep it real. Bologna’s vibrant food markets, dotted all over the city, are the best place for tasting delicious food from the region like mortadella sausage, parma ham, balsamic vinegar and parmesan. After, head to Osteria del Sole, a lively bar over 550 years old, where the wine is cheap and you can bring your own food. Restaurants range from posh white table cloth affairs to rustic family-run trattorias but almost all offer incredible food. You can walk the food off by exploring the city. Wander under the shaded porticoes, Bologna’s covered walkways with vaulted ceilings, marble floors and fancy shops. Connect up the city’s many 13th-century gates, or climb the 498 steps up Asinelli Tower for a panorama of Bologna and the surrounding countryside. Or go green and hit Orto Botanico, the university’s botanical gardens with their cavernous greenhouses.

a foodie heaven

Help make Christmas missions possible Book a festive break and support Midlands Air Ambulance Charity visit: charitable.travel/midlands-air-ambulance/

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TALLINN, ESTONIA

Maatchec k

Where better to enjoy a Christmas market than in a square named after good King Wenceslas? There is also a market in the Old Town Square, where a huge tree is dressed in baubles and lit up against the gothic skyline. Both are fragrant with roasted chesnuts and sizzling sausages and offer carol singing, nativity scenes and beautiful handcrafted gifts ranging from ceramics to scented candles.

nd more fe Fi

COLOGNE, GERMANY

VIENNA, AUSTRIA

PRAGUE, CZECH REPUBLIC

ive break s st

One of Europe’s most picturesque markets sits snugly within the walls of the Estonian capital’s Old Town. This year’s affair will be scaled down but wooden huts will still sell mulled wine, gingerbread and knitted mittens as well as oysters, black caviar and Champagne. An Estonian culture stall will feature books and records from home-grown talent while Santa Claus’ cabin is open to recieve letters to the big man, who appears as a hologram to chat about his Christmas prep.

Each of the Austrian capital’s yuletide markets is spread before the twinkling lights of a grand building. The Viennese Dream Christmas Market is beneath the many beautifully lit arches of the town hall and another is before the baroque Belvedere Palace. All offer the enticing whiff of spiced gluhwein, strudel, baked potatoes and sugared nuts drifting on the crisp night air, plus handmade arts and crafts galore.

FIVE EUROPEAN

Christmas markets

There are several festive shopping options in Cologne. The most striking is the Christmas Market at the Cathedral. Watched over by the blackened columns, turrets and glaring gargoyles of ‘the Dom’, as well as star-shaped strands of sparkling lights and a tall and glittering fir tree, it looks like a scene from a Grimm’s fairy tale. Heinzels Wintermärchen is the largest market and has a pretty ice rink and 140 stalls housing artisans from all over Europe and their unique wares.

WINCHESTER, UK

The UK’s former capital city has one of its most enchanting Christmas markets. An ice rink and pretty A-frame wooden chalets twinkling with lights are arranged in the grounds of the impressive cathedral. Sellers from Hampshire and further afield offer everything from artisan wreaths and glassware to cosy textiles and silver jewellery. A New Forest-based brewery will be pulling pints and food on offer will include cheese and charcuterie and mince pies.

Making up for a faintly festive 2020 this Christmas (fingers crossed) should be a cracker for explorers

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State

ok a trip t o Bo

e Lone S

Postcard from

AUSTIN Naked attraction

It’s Texas, but not as you know it. That’s not to say the Lone Star State’s capital isn’t proudly Southern – you only have to see the monolithic capitol building to get that. But you’ll also see many-a rainbow flag fluttering in the warm breeze and I get the impression that your average red-blooded Texan would choke on his beef brisket if he took a walk through the hipster heaven of East Austin. The city’s catch phrase is ‘keep Austin weird,’ a point eloquently demonstrated as I sat outside a popular Mexican eatery, absentmindedly stuffing my face with tortilla chips, when a senior gentlemen walked past pushing his bike, wearing nothing but a shiny posing pouch. On gazing after him, open-mouthed, I discovered the back view was even more alarming and watched him saunter casually up the street, the harsh southern sun glancing off his buttocks. The locals, meanwhile, merely continued to nonchalantly sip their jalapeno mojitos.

Paddling on the Colorado R iver

Yep, Austin does things differently and it must be working because it’s one of the fastest growing cities in the United States. The city is a fascinating mix of kooky and cowboy and music is a strong influence, with live gigs playing in concert halls and dive bars every night and

Browse the aisles of Allens Boots for the ultimate Texan outfit, from hat to boots

The Capitol

Austin oozes Americana

Austin’s most famous place to eat is Franklin Barbecue. Be prepared to queue and for your mouth to water at the smell 24

Face the music

encompassing country, jazz, rock and everything in-between. Austin loves food but it’s not all fancy, some of the best places to eat are the food trucks which park up all over the city, peddling tacos, Greek gyros, curry and every other nationality of food you can think of. Despite all the junk food, Austinites seem to be more like Californians when it comes to fitness. A very early morning stroll along the Colorado River trail and I passed scores of joggers and cyclists, while paddle boarders and kayakers swept past on the water. My last activity was watching nature’s nightly show by Congress Avenue Bridge. As dark descends, clouds of bats fly out from its eaves and flit up river.

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out mor e

charitab l

vel tra e.

A day in

THE LIFE OF...

Tracey Moore, a Senior Instructor at Support Dogs.

Find out how she trains dogs to help kids with autism and the difference they make to youngsters’ lives I’ve worked for Support Dogs since 2007, first as a volunteer, then a trainer and now a senior instructor. Most of my work involves training autism assistance dogs for children who are often unable to communicate or express their feelings in a way that is understood by others and have little sense of danger or of the consequences of their actions. Our dogs are trained to keep children safe outside the home, reduce stress in social environments and provide independence and companionship. For many of our youngsters their dog is their best friend.

On a typical day...

...I work to build a relationship between a support dog, the child and the dog’s handler (usually a parent) at our training centre in Sheffield. We start from scratch, doing bonding work like play sessions, basic obedience, task work, taking them out and getting the dog to interact with the child. Next we start taking the dog into restricted areas like supermarkets and after two weeks we go to places like swimming pools and cinemas.

TRACEY ON THE JOB

Top dogs

It’s about building up the handler’s confidence and knowing that the dog and child will be OK.

Support Dogs also trains seizure alert dogs for adults with epilepsy and disability assistance dogs for people with conditions like cerebral palsy and arthritis, enabling them to lead safer, more independent lives. supportdogs.org.uk

PUPPY IN TRAINING

The next stage...

... sees the dog go to live with its family. I give them time to settle in before making visits to make sure that the child is happy being attached to the dog’s jacket when they go out – this is to prevent them running into the road. We train the dog to ‘brace’ – anchoring itself to the pavement to stop the child. After about six months we do a final assessment and if all goes well the child and the dog will qualify as an official autism assistance partnership. This relationship will last until the dog is ten, when they retire, although most families keep them as a pet.

The best thing...

...is accepting parents onto our programme because you know it will make such a difference to their lives. I love working with children and it’s so rewarding seeing the difference the dogs make to autistic kids’ lives; it’s a thrill. And our clever dogs just blow me away with what they can do.

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Sponsored feature

Sweet home

ALABAMA Road trip around a state steeped in music, history and culture, rich in natural beauty and bursting with authentic southern hospitality

U.S SPACE & ROCKET CENTER

n the Deep South, all roads lead to Alabama which lies at its heart. And while you’ll find some as you expected – passing white picket fence towns with porch swings a-plenty – others lead to places you never knew existed, from the lush foothills of the Appalachian Mountains to the sugary shores of the Gulf. A road trip is the best way to uncover the soul of Alabama, stopping in cosmopolitan cities, charming small towns and stunning wild spots to soak up home-grown music, famous southern hospitality and trailblazing history. Fly direct to New Orleans, Nashville or Atlanta from the UK and you can pick up a car or take a connecting flight into one of Alabama’s regional airports.

Rolling Stones recorded tracks. Close by is the home of W.C Handy, ‘father of the blues’ and the Alabama Music Hall of Fame, which honours 1,200 Alabama musicians, ranging from country star Emmylou Harris to funk and soul band the Commodores. From here, head south to the Jazz Music Hall of Fame in Birmingham and then state capital Montgomery and its Hank Williams Museum, where you can see his famous blue Cadillac and hear pioneering country classics, like Hey Good Lookin’. If you prefer live music to museums then you’re spoilt for choice, from bluegrass and jazz in Humphrey’s, Huntsville to a mishmash of classic tunes in fun-time bar Florabama, Orange Beach.

A MUSICAL ODYSSEY

TAKE THE WILD WAY

Close to the border with equally musical neighbour Tennessee is a place as legendary as it is off the beaten track. Mentioned in Lynyrd Skynyrd’s famous song Sweet Home Alabama, the small city of Muscle Shoals was the hit recording capital of the world in the 1960s – where stars like Aretha Franklin, Etta James and the

Just 90 minutes’ drive from Atlanta is the highest point in Alabama, Mount Cheaha. Hit a hiking or mountain biking trail to gaze across Talladega National Forest’s ocean of oak, hickory and pine trees, which comes ablaze in autumn, or just enjoy driving past dramatic outcrops, rolling hills and seemingly endless green horizons. GULF COAST BOARDWALK

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HEADY HEIGHTS IN CHEAHA STATE PARK

If you’re coming from Tennessee, start in Fort Payne and visit DeSoto State Park, famous for its rushing waterfalls and carpets of wildflowers, or the Little River Canyon National Preserve, where dramatic bluffs drop more than 600 feet, attracting hikers, anglers and paddlers. West of here is Lake Guntersville State Park, where you can spot bald eagles soaring over the lake or soar over the forest yourself, on the hair-raising Screaming Eagle zipline. Now turn south to low country and the Mobile Tensaw Delta. This green maze of waterways was described by one naturalist as the ‘American Amazon’. Guided kayak tours take you along serene creeks and through atmospheric swamps of submerged cypress trees, home to lurking alligators and majestic birds of prey. From here, head to Gulf State Park to spot pelicans and nesting turtles.

TRAILING LEGENDS

MUSICAL MUSCLE SHOALS

Follow in the footsteps of history on the Civil Rights Trail which links to all surrounding states. Highlights include Discover more about sweet Birmingham, where home Alabama and plan your the Civil Rights next Deep South road trip, tailored to your interests, with Institute gives an our expert team. You’ll be on overview of the fight the road before you know it! for racial justice and charitable.travel/ equality. Afterwards, alabama cross the street to visit the 16th Street Baptist Church, where a terrorist bomb tragically killed four young black girls but gospel choirs still sing loud and proud. Montgomery is the site of the tiny First White House of the Confederacy but it’s the Rosa Parks Museum that inspires, dedicated to the woman who refused to give her bus seat to a white man and sparked a bus boycott which led to racial integration on public transport. Next, head to Selma’s Edmund Pettus Bridge, where a civil rights

Where skies are so blue

protest march was met with police brutality but awakened the world to racial injustice, leading to a new law on voting rights and eventually paving the way for Dr. Martin Luther King’s ‘I have a dream’ speech. Literature lovers should detour to Monroeville, home of author Harper Lee and inspiration for her seminal novel To Kill a Mockingbird. Visit the tiny courthouse, which set designers for the film adaptation used as their blueprint, and don’t miss the exhibition on the author. If you’re more of a science geek you should visit the U.S Space and Rocket Center in Huntsville, where you can follow the space race to a glimpse of the future, experience G-force and see a Saturn V Rocket - one of only three in the world.

JUST COASTING ALONG

For fun in the sun, the Gulf Coast of Alabama is easily reached from Florida. The resorts of Gulf Shores and Orange Beach comprise 32 miles of pristine white sand beaches backed by a few condos and waving sea oats. Fun hang-outs include LuLu’s, owned by Jimmy Buffet’s sister and famous for seafood and live music. Or head to Gulf State Park to wander peaceful trails through pine forests or hire a paddle board and take to the sparkling sea. Beached out? follow the coast into Mobile Bay, stopping at cute towns Daphne and Fairhope to browse the boutique shops and art galleries lining flower-lined streets, have lunch in a swanky restaurant or quaint cafe and choose which idyllic cottage or waterside mansion you’d like to live in. Last stop is laid-back Mobile, home of the first ever Mardi Gras in the U.S. (and a museum dedicated to it). Grab cold beer on a wrought iron balcony in the historic district before enjoying a southern meal of fried oysters and hush puppies.

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Get to know QATAR DESERT CAMEL RIDE

Al Zubarah Fort DOHA’S SKYLINE

What’s it all about?

The 2022 host of the FIFA World Cup is set to get a lot more attention next year as football fans descend, but this desert country has more than brand new stadiums. Discover a blend of ultra-modern architecture and proudly-guarded heritage, with a burgeoning arts scene.

Doha

Desert dreams

Khor Al You can’t visit Qatar and not venture Adaid into its sandy interior. A typical desert safari will take you to Khor Al Adaid, otherwise known as the inland sea, an inlet of the Persian Gulf that straddles the border with Saudi Arabia. This serene and extra-salty expanse of blue is surrounded by silvery sand dunes and was a refuge for pirates from Abu Dhabi in the 1800s. Tours then take you for some hair-raising dune bashing (racing up and down in a 4WD) and a slightly less bumpy camel ride, before a traditional dinner is served at a fire-lit Bedouin campsite under the stars.

Shopaholic heaven

SOUK WAQIF

THE SERENE IN

LAND SEA

Top spots include the Mall of Qatar, which has 500,000 square feet of retail space, and the Italianate marble palace of Al Hazm and its range of luxury boutiques. Or wander the narrow alleyways of Souq Waqif for herbs, spices, gold and traditional hand-crafted items. Make sure you have a mint tea and people watch in this old Bedouin trading post.

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GULF VIEWS

ip a tr to Qa

NATIONAL MUSEUM OF QATAR

r ta

Quick, boo

Qatar has some quirky things to see too... GO CAMEL RACING It’s weird but wonderful. The camels are ridden by robots, which are controlled by enthusiastic Qatari men, dressed in spotless dishdashas and dashing along in shiny SUVs, pointing remote controls out of the window as they race erratically along the adjacent track. VISIT THE FALCON HOSPITAL This state-ofthe-art medical facility in Souq Waqif is testament to the status of these feathered predators in Arabic culture. Peep inside the waiting room to see hooded falcons perching patiently, perhaps waiting for a wing x-ray.

Vitamin sea

Head to the Arabian Riviera at The Pearl, a luxurious artificial island of four million square metres encompassing a mini Venice. Al Thakira Beach, an hour’s drive north of Doha, is a wildlife-rich spot where you can kayak through mangroves, while Banana Island Resort Doha by Anantara is just one of many beach resorts with silky sands. THE ICONIC TORCH BUILDING

Culture & history

There are many museums and galleries in Doha but the Museum of Islamic Art is the jewel in its cultural crown and the largest collection of its kind in the world, with paintings, textiles, ceramics and more from three continents. Designed by the architect of the Louvre, it’s an angular, elegant white building looking to Doha’s glittering modern skyline across the water. Don’t miss the Katara Cultural Village, a hub for creatives with a plethora of museums and galleries and mesmerising architecture, from blue and gold mosques to a vast seaside marble amphitheatre. There’s also the National Library of Qatar, designed to look like a piece of folded paper and the National Museum of Qatar, in the shape of a desert rose. Outside Doha is Al Zubarah Archaeological Site, the ruins of a former pearling port which is dominated by an impressive sand-hued fort.

Take a sunset stroll along

GRAB AN AUTHENTIC SHAWAR

Doha Corniche, the city’s waterfront promenade, to gaze at the skyline

Join the brunch brigade

A mix of Arabic cafes and glitzy Michelin Star restaurants will tickle any taste buds. There are famous names like Hakkasan as well as local stars like L’wzaar Sea Food Market, which buys its catch daily from Dhow Harbour. World-renowned chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten serves a popular Friday brunch at Market in W Doha, with a world of flavours. Or try Chef Al Shawarma for juicy spit-roasted meat, including camel.

AN ARABIAN ORYX

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LET THERE

be light

It’s not just individuals who’ve been soul searching. Giles Hawke, CEO of Cosmos, reveals his company’s renewed eco-ethos As we start to recover from the pandemic and tourism begins again it is great not only to be taking our customers to their favourite destinations but to hear the responses from our local partners, who are finally seeing their livelihoods restarting. We can really see the importance of tourist money in these destinations and it has renewed our focus. We have spent the last 15 months revisiting our sustainability approach and, in April of this year, launched our new Lighthouse Project initiative. This focuses on spotlighting all the areas we are investing in to help People, Planet and Places. We have carried out a complete audit of our holiday portfolio and what we are doing where so that we can better understand our current impact, both positive and negative, and then plan for delivering more positive benefits into the future. In the last year we have removed

single-use plastics from our whole operation, invested hundreds of thousands of dollars into charitable initiatives to support our Lighthouse Project principles and trained our global teams in what we are doing and why to increase awareness. One of our biggest investments has been in supporting the launch of The Ocean Clean Up. This is a not-for-profit organisation with a mission to remove the Great Pacific Garbage Patch. By 2025 the expectation is that The Ocean Clean Up will have removed half of this huge plastic island currently floating in the Pacific and introduced hundreds of interceptor barges on rivers to prevent more waste finding its way into our seas. Our monthly Lighthouse Spotlights communicate the different initiatives that we are involved in supporting and let our employees, our partners and our guests know how they can support them too.

Our future work in progress includes adding more Lighthouse Projects, focusing more on community-led tourism, measuring our impact on the areas we travel to and working out how we can make this ever more positive, and off-setting the carbon emissions of our holidays by working with a notfor-profit planting trees in forests around the world. We have committed to having our first fully electric river cruise ship by 2027 and are working with partners on the rivers to help them create clean, renewable electricity so we can run carbon-free in the future. We still have a long way to ensure we are 100% #travelforgood but I’m a great believer in the sentiment expressed so eloquently by Edmund Burke, a famous 18th century Irish statesman, economist and philosopher: who said: “Nobody made a greater mistake than he who did nothing because he could only do a little.”

Cosmos cares

Discover great holidays and find out more about Cosmos’ global social and environmental initiatives. charitable.travel/ cosmos

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BOHOL

SIARGAO

This tiny island has some quirky attractions, not least the Chocolate Hills (so-called because the grass that blankets them is brown in dry season), so perfectly conical that they are reminiscent of Teletubbyland! The island is also home to the world’s smallest primate, the goggleeyed tarsier which is about 10cm high and clings to tree branches.

A tear-drop shaped island, Siargao is best known as the Philippines’ top surfing spot and dare devils from around the world flock to visit the island’s famous break - Cloud Nine. But you don’t have to chase waves to appreciate Siargao’s white sand islets, turquoise tide pools, winding rivers and mangrove- and palm tree-fringed lagoons.

Four views of

PHILIPPINES Just four islands from the world’s second-largest archipelago show its spectacular diversity

MALAPASCUA

This unassuming, idyllic island is a top dive site offering the chance to see the psychedelic mandarin fish and the elusive thresher shark. These stealthy silver predators with huge mercury eyes and long tails usually live in darker depths but come closer to the surface here to be nibbled free of parasites by cleaner wrasse fish in a natural underwater salon.

PALAWAN

This long finger of an island stretches towards Borneo and its unique flora and fauna is reflected in its geographic position. Palawan’s emerald waters, crystalline lagoons and hidden coves are backed by soaring limestone cliffs which hide underground rivers and caves, while it Amazonian interior remains pristine.

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MEN’S HEALTH

in numbers

The Movember Foundation aims to ensure that men live happier, healthier and longer lives. It focuses on leading causes of ill health and death in men: prostate and testicular cancer and suicide. It does this by funding 1,250-plus men’s health projects in 20 countries.

On average men die six years younger tha women do

MEN ARE MORE RELUCTANT TO TAKE ACTION WHEN THEY DON’T FEEL PHYSICALLY ST OR MENTALLY MO N WELL E

TESTICULAR CANCER Globally it’s the most common cancer among men aged 15-39 years

95%

of cases in the developed world are cured but treatments can cause damage to the heart, brain, kidneys and fertility

... are often reluctant to openly discuss their health or how they feel about the impact of significant life events

MOVEMBER invests in biomedical, clinical and health services research for prostate and testicular cancer

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ACROSS THE WORLD, A MAN DIES BY SUICIDE EVERY MINUTE OF EVERY DAY

By 2030, Movember hopes to reduce the rate of male suicide by

e an

25%

...out of 4 suicides in the UK are by men

MEN

PROSTATE CANCER IS THE SECOND MOST COMMON CANCER IN MEN WORLDWIDE. UNCHECKED, PROSTATE CANCER RATES WILL DOUBLE OVER THE NEXT 15 YEARS

H PR LT

JECTS O

...understand, promote and advocate for men’s health, supporting men to take action when it comes to their health and wellbeing

L HEA TA

MOVEMBER

...for men include MOVE - a 30-day fitness challenge to show men how they can live happier & healthier lives by simply moving AND TrueNTH - helping to improve the physical and mental side effects of prostate cancer treatment

FIND OUT MORE AT CHARITABLE.TRAVEL/MOVEMBER

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NEXT STOP...

no homelessness Founder of Buses4Homeless, Dan Atkins, has a new approach to getting people off the streets and it’s all on the buses... WHAT DOES BUSES4HOMELESS DO?

We provide a holistic solution to homelessness. A lot of organisations provide temporary solutions – they might give people meals or provide shelter at night. But if you’re in the cycle of homelessness this doesn’t help you get any life traction. With us, people get a pod for at least three months. Our four buses are spaces for eating, sleeping, learning and wellbeing and we rehabilitate homeless people, getting them back on their feet into employment and independent living.

WHERE DID THE IDEA FOR IT COME FROM?

I’ve been building buses and coaches for years and one day I walked into the yard and there was a guy who used to be my part-time mechanic, a friend of mine, sleeping rough in the luggage locker under a coach. It broke my heart so that day we went

out and bought him a bus and kitted it out so he could live in it with his three dogs, which he did for two and a half years. I also have a background in teaching and I’ve had personal trauma in my own life. I think all my life experience has led to this project.

HOW DID IT GO FROM ONE BUS FOR A FRIEND TO BUSES4HOMELESS?

In the past I’d done a lot of favours for people in the events world and that paid off when I got a call from someone at the Hotel Booking Agents Association. She had seen what we’d done on social media and wanted to help by making us their official charity for 2019. That’s when it started to snowball. I went to speak in front of 300 of their members with the intention of raising £5,000 to kickstart the project but we ended up raising over £30,000 and Stagecoach donated four buses to us.

We became a social enterprise because getting the charitable commission to understand that things like reiki energy healing and life coaching can alleviate poverty by creating a positive mind set was difficult. Social enterprises are the way forward, coming at problems with a business mindset will make the world a better place faster.

WHAT HAPPENS WHEN YOU TAKE IN A HOMELESS PERSON?

We really work on their mental health and wellbeing, which is by far the most important part of their journey off the streets. Buses4Homeless work with various trainers and healers to strip back the layers of how and why each person has become homeless. Once we’ve addressed their inner demons we equip them with positive coping tools and when they are ready we start up-skilling them. Finally, we find various caring employers to offer

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es at cha r us

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them part- or full-time jobs to get them get back on their feet. We try to create as many employment opportunities as possible so people have a choice in how they move forward, whether that’s carpentry, hospitality or construction.

WHY DO PEOPLE BECOME HOMELESS?

Often, people who come to us have fallen out with their family or experienced a breakdown in a relationship. Their life can quickly starts to unravel if they don’t have a caring support network. Many people unfortunately reach for drink, drugs or both and that can lead to loss of employment, which can lead to loss of housing and it’s a slippery slope from there. When Bibi came to us one cold morning in February, dragging his suitcase with one wheel, he hadn’t changed his socks for five days or had a shower for two weeks. The poor guy just needed some support. Fast-forward 18 months and he has a qualification in carpentry, works full-time for us converting buses and has moved into his own bus that he renovated himself.

of all our supporters, we managed to get him home to be with his family, which was his final wish.

times, some have been promised a lot and they might not necessarily trust the system, but when they get past that and realise that we just want to help them out, just because, they start believing in themselves. You see the sparkle come back to their eyes and they start taking positive steps towards what they want from life.

WHAT’S YOUR PROUDEST MOMENT?

HOW HAS COVID-19 AFFECTED YOU?

When the employers came to meet our boys for the first time it changed everyone’s lives. I’d promised our guys that if they stuck the programme out they would be introduced to the right people and they all dressed up in their best clothes. The employers met and talked with them and they left completely blown away by these amazing people, who were just down on their luck and needed a helping hand. The boys were so happy and the vibe on camp was electric. All of them were offered jobs shortly after.

WHAT DO HOMELESS PEOPLE NEED MOST?

Care and compassion – at the end of the day it all comes down to love. They’ve been through some trying

WHAT’S BEEN THE HARDEST THING TO DEAL WITH?

We had to pause operations but we are due to restart just before Christmas. Because of the virus the government no longer wants people sharing a communal sleeping space so we are having to go back to the drawing board and work on creating modular, self-contained sleeping cabins for the people we support.

WHAT’S NEXT?

I want to change the way the provision of homeless services is done in this country and beyond. Putting people into a home is just isolating them with their problems and they’ll end up back on the street. We need to drill down into why people are homeless in order to eradicate it.

Get onboard!

Find out more about Buses4Homeless and their low-cost, holistic solution to reengaging homeless people and getting them back into the community. buses4homeless.org

One of our boys ended up with terminal cancer and unfortunately he passed away in May this year. He was from Sardinia and was the kindest, sweetest most gentle soul. But the amazing thing was that, with the help

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THE ISLAND

of the future

How do you build back better when it comes to tourism? Mark Bibby Jackson reckons that Chumbe Island in Tanzania has got the right idea In 1995 Chumbe Island off Zanzibar became the first privately created and managed Marine Protected Area in the world. Today, ecotourism on the island not only supports conservation efforts, but also comprehensive education programmes. Sibylle Riedmiller, Director at Chumbe Island, says that “education is the backbone of the project.” Since 1996, some 11,000 Zanzibar children, teachers and community members have benefited from the Environmental Education Schools Programme, in which they learn about marine and forest ecology, amongst other things. This pristine oasis has scooped several awards, including the Oscar for marine conservation, the Blue Parks Award. The island comprises a semi-arid coral rag Forest Reserve which covers around 90% of the land (some 22 hectares) and has been protected by Chumbe Island Coral Park Ltd (CHIOP) since 1994.

Within it you can find at least 124 rainwater catchment, solar energy, different plant species, as well as vegetative greywater filtration for birds, animals, crustaceans, nonthe waste water and compositing poisonous snakes and lizards. These toilets. This ensures that visitors’ include the critically endangered waste never harms the island. mini-antelope, Ader’s Duiker, and a Riedmiller is optimistic about the large population of coconut crabs, future of Chumbe Island. Over the the largest land crabs in the world. last year she was able to pay staff The area is protected by a team wages, including Head Ranger Omar of rangers, paid for by CHIOP, AmeNyange and his team, through but guests to the eco-lodge are crowd funding and a small grant permitted to go on nature walks. from German aid. However, it is off shore that She has also started a fundraising Chumbe’s real treasure awaits. The initiative (gofundme.com/f/helpCoral Reef Sanctuary is a 55-hectare protect-chumbe-reef) so that people area where fishing is banned. It can fund their efforts until tourism contains 90% of East Africa’s returns. The Chumbe team hard coral species, more hopes that the United than 500 fish species, Nation’s Decade of endangered green and Ocean Science and Featuring great travel hawksbill turtles and the public’s growing writing aimed purely at blacktip reef sharks. awareness of how independent-minded The seven-bungalow important coral reefs travellers over the age of resort has also been are will also help. 40. charitable.travel/ designed to have a travel-beginsat-40 zero impact upon the environment. It employs

Travel Begins at 40

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WHY I

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When Mark Dombkins adopted three children via Tanzania-based charity Forever Angels it changed his life and his work forever... My wife and I lived in Tanzania for three years with our two kids, Jackson and Jemima. It’s a breathtakingly beautiful place, full of hope, vibrancy and life, but it’s also a country where one third of the population live below the basic needs poverty line and 20 women die in childbirth every day. We had a dream of providing a family for kids who didn’t have one and we went on to welcome Shay, Charlie and Jabari into our family, adopted from the Forever Angels Baby Home. By the end of 2013 we had finalised the adoption and were ready to move back to Australia, but we couldn’t just walk away. Forever Angels had just started a new project to give families the confidence to become self-sustaining. Though many babies in Tanzania are abandoned in heartbreak and desperation, they are not unwanted, just unable to be kept. Out of the three million orphans in Tanzania, 80% have a loving family who dearly want to keep them. We saw the

impact Forever Angels had on this situation first-hand. One of the women they were working with was 65-year old Martha, who had bravely stepped up to care for her grandson Daniel and his four older siblings, after their mother tragically died in childbirth. But without the proper nutrition available she began to struggle. She tried everything, feeding him porridge and tea, but he quickly became malnourished. When Martha bought Daniel to Forever Angels he was six weeks old and weighed 1.4kg. The charity’s Maisha Matters project empowers women like Martha through education from experienced and dedicated Tanzanian staff over a 12-month period. Every Tuesday, Martha travelled over an hour with Daniel to training, sometimes in the bucketing rain, and she was joined by over 60 other carers just like her. They were given training in first aid and nutrition, an update on the children’s weight and formula milk for a week. When the child returns to a healthy weight and their confidence and

quality of life improves, the team then teaches business skills and works with each caregiver to help them set up a business that reflects their skills and interests. This bespoke approach dramatically changes the course of each family’s life. Twelve months later Daniel was a healthy and thriving little boy and Martha had a business selling fruit and vegetables, making enough money to care for her whole family independently. I have witnessed first-hand the beautiful sense of connection and community that develops between the women in the Maisha Matters project. They no longer feel isolated or desperate. These women feel empowered, seen and connected. I have become a dedicated advocate and supporter of Forever Angels. Back in Australia I now run Forever Projects, a like-minded community of people who use their time, their talent, or their money to make a change in the world and I’m proud to be able to support Forever Angels through this.

Make a change

Forever Angels has cared for over 421 babies, reuniting 189 with relatives and finding adoptive families for 120. For more information or to donate see: foreverangels.org

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Northern Ireland GET SPIRITED AWAY

With epic landscapes fit for giants and a gigantic welcome to boot, Northern Ireland’s hidden delights will please the artistic, the hungry, the curious and the adventurous

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about Northern lan your next ther it’s a city ng holiday or a nes geek-out! letravel/ n-ireland

THE TITANICA

SCULPTURE

THE MOURNE MOUNTAINS

ith domestic bookings for summer 2022 already at recordbreaking numbers, it looks like staycations are here to, well, stay. And while it’s great news that more of us are appreciating our own backyard, it does beg the question: is our small but perfectly formed country ready for more tourists? The last two summers saw pictures of overcrowded beaches and beauty spots circulating in the media – it appeared there were more city-escapees than sheep in the Lake District this August. But there is somewhere closer to home that is something of a well-kept secret. Northern Ireland offers a dramatic coastline with beautiful beaches, glorious countryside, buzzing towns and cities, a wealth of culture and history and the warmest of welcomes. If you already haven’t visited, add it to your list! Whether you arrive into Belfast, Derry~Londonderry or Larne (the latter can be accessed by ferry, as can the capital) you’ll be sure to get a warm welcome. If events of recent history are your first thought then cast your preconceptions aside. Northern Ireland is alive with music, flooded with Guinness and

whiskey and full of the craic, along with world class visitor attractions, fascinating culture and history and an internationally lauded food and drink scene. Once you get outside of the cities you’ll have the place pretty much to yourself. You’ll find hedgerows ablaze with wild flowers, mountains brooding majestically in the distance, their lofty tops tempting hikers and bikers alike, and the choice of a rugged coast or vast and serene loughs (lakes), for those looking to get wet or mess about in boats.

FUN, FOOD AND FINE SIGHTS IN BELFAST

Belfast is a small city, with a population of around 300,000, but there’s a lot packed into this vibrant capital, which has a booming economy. In 1894 it was a centre for the linen industry and the length of yarn produced that year would have encircled the earth 25,000 times. Nowadays, the new Linen Quarter is still at the heart of the city but it’s the shops, pubs and hotels that are buzzing. With a cuisine scene to die for, Belfast has three Michelin-starred restaurants

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(Manchester is twice the size but has just one). Ox is a collaboration between a Belfast-born chef hot from the kitchens of Paris and his French friend and sommelier. It’s renowned for fancy dishes with a firmly local provenance but starts at £30 for a threecourse lunch. Multi-star chef Michael Deane has had his Michelin recognition for 13 years and has seven restaurants, including Deanes Meat Locker and Deanes Love Fish. The most recent star has gone to the modern menu at the atmospheric Muddlers Club, named after a secret society that met there 200 years ago. It’s not all fine dining. Visit Fibber Magees, a local joint where £3.80 buys you a pint of Guinness and you can have your brunch listening to traditional bands like The Full Shillin’. Request Stairway to Heaven on the fiddle – this is where Led Zeppelin first played it in MURALS ABOUND 1971. IN NORTHERN But you’ll find live music IRELAND everywhere in Belfast, even St George’s Market, with its staidly Victorian red brick, iron and glass exterior, is renowned for its live scene, as well as its fresh oysters (£1 each), fruit and vegetables. The Cathedral Quarter, centred around the stunning St Anne’s Cathedral, manages to mix cobbled streets and cool vibes. There’s a circus school and a museum to all those local musicians (Van Morrison, Snow Patrol et al). Don’t miss The Friend at Hand, a tiny gem of a whisky shop that practically glows amber. Striking murals abound here too – you’ll see a lot of George Best portraits in these parts. Murals are a big part of Belfast and a Black Cab Tour is a great way to unlock the secrets of the art and the past. My driver definitely had the gift of the gab and gave a personal insight into the city’s fascinating journey from past to present. The cab will also whisk you past the city’s famous sights, like City Hall and Queens University.

CATHEDRAL QUARTER, BELFAST THE TURF MAN, INSPIRED BY SEAMUS HEANEY

OLD MEETS NEW IN DERRY~LONDONDERRY

Northern Ireland’s second city may be smaller than Belfast but has charm in spades and plenty to fill a city break. Derry~Londonderry got a considerable makeover in 2013 thanks to its status as UK City of Culture, which prompted the construction of the Peace Bridge and the redevelopment of the

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waterfront and Guildhall area, making the most of the city’s striking riverside setting. Derry~Londonderry is home to the only completely intact walled city on the island of Ireland and one of the finest examples of a walled city in Europe. This is a good place to start your visit as it’s an easy and scenic walk, just a mile in circumference, and takes in key city sights like St Columb’s Cathedral, as well as cannons, battlements and watchtowers. Walking tours are a speciality here and you can discover everything from the city’s murals, which depict its turbulent history, to the filming locations for Channel Four cult comedy, Derry Girls. Must-see spots include the Craft Village, which recreates how the city looked in the 18th century via a street of shops selling traditional food, books and handmade items, with knitwear a speciality. Just an hour from Derry~Londonderry is Seamus Heaney HomePlace, a fascinating insight into what inspired the Poet Laureate and his relationship with his homeland. It’s not all culture and history in this city though, try taking a paddleboard tour on the River Foyle to appreciate the city from the water. If you go around sunset time you can

see the city lights twinkling across the water. If that sounds like thirsty work then you’ll need to add in a pit stop at the Walled City Brewery. The beer house offers brewing masterclasses where you can learn (and drink) your way through the 9,000-year history of beer. You can also dine in the award-winning restaurant and pair the brews with delicious pub favourites.

MYTHS BOTH ANCIENT AND MODERN

The Giant’s Causeway is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a remarkable geological wonder. Sixty million years old, it has over 40,000 interlocking basalt columns, the scenic result of intense volcanic and geological activity. There is, of course, another story about how it came into being. The Giant in question was Finn MacCool whose rival over in Scotland was Benandonner. Finn built enormous stepping stones across the sea and challenged the Scottish giant to cross but, when he saw how big he was, he fled home and asked his wife, Oonagh, to hide him. Oonagh put Finn in a cradle

PEACE BRIDGE, DERRY~LONDONDERRY

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From quirky pubs to luxury hotels, book to stay somewhere a little special... THE CULLODEN ESTATE Near Belfast Lough is this former bishop’s palace, set in a peaceful park with roaring fires and its own pub.

and disguised him as a baby. When Benandonner saw the ‘infant’ he assumed the father must be gigantic indeed and fled back over the Causeway, ripping it up behind him. There are indeed similar columns at the Scottish end – in Fingal’s Cave – so who can say if it’s true? You could always give it some thought over a glass of Bushmill’s – the world’s oldest whiskey distillery is just up the road from the Causeway. This is just one of the stops along the spectacular Causeway Coastal Route. You pass long sandy beaches and rocky coves – and tiny Rathlin Island where some (not all) say Robert the Bruce met his spider. There are more modern legends too, and Belfast’s outstanding Titanic Quarter is the place to start. At its heart is the awardwinning Titanic Museum, an impressive silver building sitting on the very dockside where the ship was built. This poignant musuem and memorial tells the story of Belfast’s shipyards, the building and launch of the famous liner and the stories of the people who were on it. Even the voices of the riveters telling their perspective on the Shipyard Ride is, well, riveting! Just outside Belfast is Castle Ward, a stately home in 820 acres of glorious park,

woodland and gardens set around Britain and Ireland’s largest sea inlet, Strangford Lough. It is also the film location for much of Game of Thrones (GOT to those in the know), standing in as Winterfell Castle. Fans can even take longbow lessons there. Northern Ireland is truly the home of GOT. Filming also took place at the Titanic Studios in Belfast, the shadowy Cushendun Caves, beautiful Murlough Bay, the rocky Antrim Plateau, the ruins of Inch Abbey and the Dark Hedges, a moody road of twisted trees. Due to open later this year, Linen Mills Studios at Banbridge will offer a state-of-the-art interactive experience incorporating iconic set pieces and authentic props and costumes. The official tour will reveal the secrets behind everything from make-up and prosthetics to CGI technology.

THE GREAT OUTDOORS

The landscape of Northern Ireland is breathtaking. With the wild Atlantic Ocean on one side, and the Irish Sea on the other, the coast is unsurprisingly rugged, with dramatic cliffs dropping into pale sandy beaches which would give the Caribbean a run for its money on a sunny day. National

THE FULLERTON ARMS Located in Ballintoy, this country pub is next to the Carrick-aRede rope bridge (handy if you need a steadying whiskey after that walk). THE HARRISON CHAMBERS OF DISTINCTION A boutique hotel in Belfast with a Bridgerton-style boho/regency theme. It even offers guests a tandem on which to explore the city!

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HAVE A GLASS OR TWO OF BUSHMILLS WHISKEY

Trust-owned Portstewart Strand offers miles of golden sand and beautiful dunes. There are numerous Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty inland too and when you visit them, they are surprisingly empty. Nowhere is this truer than in the haunting beauty of the Mourne Mountains. They sweep down to the sea, where there are caves and underground rivers. Steep glaciated valleys alternate with rolling downs and patchwork fields full of sheep and cows dozing in the sun. The highest point is Slieve Donard (850 metres), the peaceful summit where Saint Donard is said to have had his hermitage. Hiking offers access to Northern Ireland’s stunning scenery. There are many trails, including one around the Silent Valley Reservoir, a peaceful lake created in the 1920s to ensure Belfast’s water supply and now a haven for nature. Or head to the heather-smothered Sperrins, a mountain range in County Tyrone. If it’s adventure you’re after though, look no further than the Gobbins cliff path in County Antrim – sometimes called the most dramatic walk in Europe. The path drops steeply from clifftop to sea level and passes through a giant keyhole in the rock (Wise’s Eye) and along a series of metal bridges and walkways. Here you can spot birds like kittiwakes, razorbills and even a colony of comical puffins. Or how about a rope bridge? The 30-metrehigh Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge was first erected by salmon fishermen in 1755 and when you cross, you’ll be crossing the Atlantic Ocean. It’s easy to get out on the water in Northern Ireland. The region’s loughs are ideal for kayakers and stand-up paddleboarders. Lough Erne is dotted with 160 wooded islands and ripe for exploring. If you prefer dry land thrills then there are plenty. Mountain biking is a popular pursuit and Rostrevor Mountain Bike Trails on the shores of Carlingford Lough has some exhilarating descents with coastal views. If you like to be horse powered there is plenty of pony-trekking – choose between mountain meanders and beach gallops. You’ll never be far from a golf course – there are 100 in Northern Ireland and many are championship standard (Royal County Down is Golf Digest’s world number one). And if you’re planning ahead, The Open will return to Royal Portrush in 2025.

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AFGHANISTAN When Afghanistan fell to the Taliban the world looked on hopelessly as the country fell back into a new dark age. Thankfully these charities are still there and working to help its people AFGHANAID

In 2021 this charity will help over 1,247,800 vulnerable people across Afghanistan. People are affected by conflict, internal displacement, lack of water, shelter and food, economic hardship and Covid-19. With offices in Kabul and four provinces, Afghanaid is working to deliver both UN-funded emergency assistance and important development work focused on climate change adaptation and improving livelihoods. Afghanaid’s strong local roots and its reputation for impartiality are a strength as it works to provide basic services and give Afghans the tools to help themselves. afghanaid.org.uk

ISLAMIC AID

INTERNATIONAL RESCUE COMMITTEE

The IRC has worked in Afghanistan since 1988 and remains on the ground to offer its vital services. Your donation could help the IRC set up mobile health clinics, distribute cash to provide families with essentials and work with Afghans to find livelihood opportunities. In July, just before foreign forces withdrew, IRC staff talked with Afghan school girls about the importance of education – you can read their thoughts on its website. rescue.org

Photo by Wanman Uthmaniyyah on Unsplash

This faith-led charity points out that millions of Afghans are struggling to eat due to one of the worst droughts their country has seen. Islamic Relief is on the ground and has initiated an emergency response. Donating £50 can provide hygiene and water storage kits for a displaced family, £100 can provide a food pack for a family for a month and £550 can provide a displaced family with emergency shelter. islamicaid.com

BRITISH RED CROSS

The Red Cross and Red Crescent Movement is in all 34 of Afghanistan’s provinces, providing essential relief and supporting medical facilities. It runs over 150 health centres and clinics and a Covid-19 hospital in Kabul. The charity has also supported 400 Afghan families arriving in Hertfordshire. Donating £40 could provide psychosocial support to help them recover from their distressing experience, while £150 can provide essential items for those arriving with few belongings. The charity also runs a tracing service for those looking for family in Afghanistan. redcross.org.uk

MÉDECINS SANS FRONTIÈRES

Since May this year clashes between Afghan forces and the Taliban have claimed thousands of lives and hospitals have been caught in the crossfire, cutting off treatment for the wounded. Now there are concerns about the availability of medical supplies. In five locations across Afghanistan, MSF teams are treating emergency trauma cases, supporting people with chronic conditions and welcoming new life in uncertain times. msf.org.uk

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Tokyo

Quite contrary

Japan Tokyo

Exploring Tokyo in a day and a half means finds herself thrown between extremes, from robot toilets to ancient temples

Laura Gelder

y toilet seems to have its own mission control panel and in my jetlagged state it’s making me anxious. I’m trying to work out how to flush and helpfully the myriad buttons have English translations to explain their use, like: “Equipment to cleansing the buttocks with warm water.” Not really what I’m looking for, although apparently, “the angle of cleansing water coming in contact with the buttocks is adjustable.” Impressive. I give up and rise from the loo, at which point it promptly flushes automatically. Wrapping my complimentary red kimono

around me, I settle into my window seat in the Prince Gallery Tokyo Kioicho hotel and gaze down at the city’s sparkling lights laid tantalisingly before me. Despite being hermetically sealed into a glass tower, I can sense the energy and imagine the lives of over 37 million people playing out below. It’s oddly comforting to feel a part of this human stew, though I’ll only be here for a day and a half – hardly enough time to do the world’s biggest city justice. For dinner, my colleagues and I leave our glass tower to dine down

sake barrels

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Tokyo

Senso-ji Buddhist temple

to earth, under the railway tracks near Yurakucho station. Sandwiched between the upmarket apartment stores of Ginza and the Imperial Palace complex, this dense alleyway is stuffed with cheap eats. As soon as we enter, mouth-watering smells of smoky chicken wafts from yakatori stalls. We’re heading to an izakaya, a pub that serves food, explains our guide. Inside the Izakaya it doesn’t feel like a pub, in the British sense at least, apart from the line of single men sitting up at the bar. “That’s where the salarymen sit,” our guide explains, referring to Japan’s most famous stereotype – the hard-working, male white-collar worker who gives their life and soul to the office. Soon our beer crate table is overflowing with fruity shōchū cocktails, bowls of edamame beans, curried chicken and noodle salad. The waiter reaches through the plastic hangings from the alleyway to add finelysliced rare beef before we move next door for seafood. This place is packed out with ravenous Tokyo marathon runners, eating under bare light bulbs while fish circle in tanks awaiting their fate. Finally I understand why people rave about sushi. The thick cuts

Save the whale

Japan's cuisine is delicious but sometimes controversial. If you want to protect whales from fishing then Greenpeace has the means. greenpeace.org.uk

Hama R ikyu Gardens

of dark red tuna are incredible but the orange uni, or sea urchin, which has a creamy oceanic taste, has me undecided. The next day continues with a fishy theme at Tsukiji Market. The wholesale section, famous for its auctions of huge tuna, has moved but the outer market remains and has a dizzying array of stalls and restaurants, most specialising in seafood. The varieties are astounding and I see lots of cartoon whales indicating that cetaceans are firmly on the menu. We’re told the wholesale market used to process 1,628 tonnes of seafood worth around $14 million every day. Our tour continues amongst the peaceful Hama Rikyu Gardens next to Tokyo Bay. The park was a feudal lord's home and a duck hunting ground during the Edo Period (16031867) but is now fringed by the skyscrapers of the Shiodome district. It’s a tranquil haven from the frantic city pace outside, with traditionally styled gardens sloping gently around seawater ponds which change with the tides and a teahouse on an island.

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Golden Gai

From here, we hop on a water bus up the Sumida River to Asakusa. As we dock the city’s tallest building, the 634-metre Tokyo Skytree, looms above and across the water is the headquarters of Asahi beer, with its famous golden flame sculpture. The Buddhist temple of Senso-ji is the oldest in Tokyo and the streets outside are packed. To get to the five-storey red pagoda we pass through Thunder Gate and under a giant paper lantern, looking above to see the carved wooden dragon at its base, and up the shopping street of Nakamise-dori which is lined with nearly 100 stores selling crafts, souvenirs and snacks. Inside the temple area clouds of perfumed incense rise from a giant cauldron and people stand bathing in it – it's said to cure ailments – before they step up to the shrine to pray. Many people in Japan practise Buddhism and Shintoism simultaneously but it’s the latter that is the

Building libraries and learning centres in Kenya is more than just providing books to children and adults alike. Our libraries are community managed, to help foster a sense of collective ownership and to improve literacy across all ages. Help us to inspire children and empower adults. charitable.travel/just-be-a-child

indigenous religion of Japan and Meiji Shinto Shrine is our next visit. The temple is right next to Harajuku, a notoriously hectic area and a shrine of sorts itself, to Japanese youth culture. We take a walk down Takeshita Street to soak up the bonkers mix of cosplay shops, cat cafes and wacky multicoloured waffles. If you want to dress like a ‘Lolita goth’ and eat unicorn candyfloss this is the place!

PEACE AT LAST

The Meiji Shinto Shrine could not be more of a contrast. It’s set in a forest oasis just across the road and as soon as we pass under the wooden torii gate a sense of peace descends and we enter the realm of the kami (spirits). It’s as if the long tree-lined path gives you time to unplug from modern distractions. There are 100,000 trees here, donated from across the country, and the greenroofed temple buildings seem to melt into them. Beautifully painted sake barrels, gifts donated by the

k Japan w

makers, are displayed at the entrance and inside rows and rows of wooden tablets called emas,, inscribed with prayers and wishes, hang under a sacred tree. Our guide explains that Shintoism doesn’t acknowledge an afterlife, which is why many Japanese practise Buddhism too. There’s no conflict or shame at this dual faith system – Senso-ji even had helpful signs reminding patrons that clapping is for Shintoism and bowing is sufficient in Buddhism.

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Tokyo

CROSSROADS TO THE PAST

We are thrust back into city life as we mingle with the masses at the world’s busiest pedestrian crossing in Shibuya. Overlooked by vast flashing TV screens and skyscrapers, we scramble across the five-way intersection with thousands of others and it's strangely thrilling. We finish our day in Golden Gai, a bar district which escaped modernisation and is a pocket of 1960s Tokyo. Narrow alleyways are stuffed with some 200 bars, some holding no more than five patrons at a time and with just a curtain for door. Not all welcome foreigners but we pick a door and climb the narrow stairs to a warm welcome from a very smart bar man in a tailed suit. As the night progresses and the drinks flow, the charming Nobu serves us complimentary plates of fine comte cheese and less fine cheesy puffs

As we pass under the torii gate a sense of peace descends and we enter the realm of the kami (spirits). The tree-lined path gives time to unplug from modern distractions and reveals he is a guitarist and composer by day. As a musical man he may have regretted letting us loose with his percussion instruments but he grabs a triangle and joins in with a rousing accompaniment to Hey Jude, which draws a couple in off the street and fills the tiny bar. When we stumble out at 3am I turn to take a photo and find I cant identify which non-descript door we came from – it’s as if it has melted away and Nobu was a figment of our imagination. Leaving the next day I encounter a robot assistant on the Tokyo Metro who bows to me. It seems to sum up the bundle of contrasts that make up this city. The overload of technology which seeps into every corner of life (including the toilet) comes with a steadfast refusal to abandon tradition, but somehow it works, and it makes the future less alarming for a tech-phobe like me.

SASHIMI INCLUD

ING UNI

The path to Meiji Shinto shrine

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Get to know QUÉBEC

SKIING ON MONT-TREMBLAN

QUEBEC COMES ABLAZE IN AUTUMN

What’s it all about?

Distinctly North American and unmistakably French, Québec is like no other Canadian province. Its vastness means it feels like a country within a country and ensures cinematic landscapes, while grand cities and charming rural communities offer top cuisine and wilderness adventures beckon.

An outdoor lifestyle

Québec

City Québecers embrace the outdoors in all seasons, hiking and kayaking Montreal in summer and autumn, and skiing and snow shoeing in spring and winter. Wild places are never far and the Laurentian Mountains are popular with Montrealers, who flock to glassy lakes edged by flaming maples in autumn and the ski resort of Mont Tremblant and its frozen forests in winter. Top kayaking spots include Saguenay Fjord, an awe-inspiring stretch of water through a vertiginous glacial valley. The rugged Gaspe Peninsula at the end of the Saint Lawrence River is famous for its rocky coast and pretty red and white lighthouses.

Food glorious food

MAPLE SYRUP FOR SALE

Whether it’s post-pub poutine (Canadian cheesy chips and gravy) or cordon bleu cooking in a historic chateau, you’ll enjoy your food in Québec. The Charlevoix region is renowned for its farm-fresh produce like cheese, vineyards, breweries and cute towns with tempting bistros and boulangeries. And visit a sugar shack to taste fresh maple syrup.

QUEBEC CITY

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MONTMORENCY FALLS This spectacular waterfall stands one and a half times higher than Niagara. Hang out at the bottom and feel the spray or ride the gondola up to the top. If you dare, take the Via Ferrata trails or the zipline. HÔTEL DE GLACE Open January to March, this magical ice hotel is carved fresh each year but always has an outdoor spa and sauna and beds layered with thick furs. SACACOMIE This giant log cabin is a luxurious hotel which is poised above a beautiful lake. Pose in the hot pool, gazing out over the forest.

A wealth of wildlife

The St. Lawrence River is home to 13 species of cetaceans, including the gigantic blue whale. In Foret Montmorency, take a dawn moose walk and your guide will imitate its honking call to find these elusive, goofy beasts. See grey seals and thousands of marine birds at Bic National Park and buck-toothed beavers in La Mauricie National Park.

THE PRETTY LAURENTIANS

MONTREAL FROM MOUNT ROYAL

Cities old and new

Capital Québec City is the oldest French city in North America but has a charming village-like feel. Perched above the St. Lawrence River, it’s dominated by the famous Château Frontenac, a hotel with fairy tale green turrets. Inside the city walls, cobbled streets are lined with stone houses, inviting bistros and pavement cafes, while musicians and street artists give the city a lively buzz. Montréal is the province’s biggest city but also has history in spades, with imposing buildings like the Basilique Notre-Dame and distinctive Victorian terrace houses with their outside staircases. But there’s also a contemporary skyline (best seen from the leafy heights of Mount Royal Park), an underground city so that residents can shop in the freezing winter and a vibrant urban art scene. Add in more restaurants per capita than any other North American city and you have the perfect urban break.

Don't be surprised to hear

HURON WENDAT

people speak French all over Québec. English is used but it's the second language

Indigenous culture

Several First Nations live in Québec and you can learn about them all at the Canadian Museum of History in Gatineau, which looks across to the Canadian capital Ottawa. The home of the Huron Wendat Nation has a recreated site where you can visit traditional long houses and a tipi, learn about medicine and sweat lodges and taste indigenous food like bannock bread.

PRETTY MAPLE LEAVES

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THE PACIFIC To the Tuamotus

Get your head around this: five island groups make up French Polynesia and they comprise 118 islands and atolls spread over an area not much smaller than Europe. Flying from the veritable metropolis that is Tahiti in the Society Islands, to Rangiroa in the lessvisited Tuamotu archipelago, took an hour over vast, empty blue seas. The Tuamotus are the biggest chain of atolls in the world – atolls are the land formed when a sea volcano sinks, leaving behind a coral reef which becomes a spectacular series of islets, or motus, ringing a lagoon. From above Rangiroa was a mirage, too beautiful to be true, like a huge pearl necklace flung into the ocean by a glamorous giant. In contrast, the airport was a modest affair, an open-sided shed with a shelf instead of a baggage carousel. There’s no concept of hurrying in Rangiroa and everything seemed to move extra slow in the thick heat – even the bright flowery curtains fluttering from the wooden shacks we passed seemed to wave slowly. Our hotel was close to

Rowing past Rangiroa at sunset

Lagoon lounging

The next day we headed to the Blue Lagoon, a mini paradise within the greater

Rangiroa offers spectacular scuba diving, with the chance to drift with hammerhead sharks

Atoll views Poisson cru

Music at the Blue Lagoon

Visit a vineyard on a tropical atoll. Vin de Tahiti’s grapes grow 100 yards from the lagoon 52

the Tiputa Pass, a point between two motus where the current races fast as it funnels through, attracting dancing dolphins who ride it like a rollercoaster every evening at sunset.

lagoon of Rangiroa. The turquoise water was calm and bath-like, save for a gentle stirring from blacktip reef sharks as they plied the shallows, knowingly waiting for titbits like pesky seagulls. The sound of the open ocean was a distant but persistent roar as it pounded the outer reef. We spent the day sunbathing and wading from motu to motu, the next white shore always glinting temptingly on the horizon. Our lunch was the freshest fish I’ve ever had, both grilled and raw with lime and coconut milk (poisson cru) served with coconut bread cooked in palm leaves. Our guides played guitars and sang while we ate. They seemed the happiest people on earth, and at that moment so was I.

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The most northerly of the United Arab Emirates is more traditional than Dubai but still has luxurious beach resorts where bikinis won’t raise eyebrows. Don’t miss getting out to enjoy lush date palm oases, Bedouin camps amongst golden dunes and the starkly beautiful Al Hajar Mountains. Climb the UAE’s tallest, Jebel Jais, by foot on the thrilling via ferrata or, in true Emirati fashion, take the hairpin bends in a Ferrari. Then zoom back to earth on the world’s longest zipline.

ARUBA

five off-the-beaten-track

WINTER SUN SPOTS With the British summer well and truly finished, it’s time to find some off-season solace in the sun...

This island is a fresh alternative to the Caribbean most Brits know and love. Alongside glorious talcum powder sands are striking cacti and a multi-coloured capital with pretty Dutch architecture. The arid Arikok National Park has spectacular caves, Indian rock drawings and pristine beaches. Adventurers can enjoy nature hikes, scuba diving on reefs and wrecks and wind and kite surfing. The unique cuisine fuses Dutch, Spanish, English and American influences.

CAMBODIA

It’s known for the temples at Angkor Wat, but Cambodia has great beaches too. The largest and most developed island is Koh Rong, where Long Beach stretches for four silky-soft miles and featured in the reality TV show Survivor. A more rustic option is Koh Tonsay, home to just swinging hammocks, weathered wooden huts and local resturants selling simple but delicious food. Add Angkor Wat and the capital Phnom Penh for a winter warmer to remember.

LA GOMERA

Go the extra mile by adding a boat trip onto your flight to Tenerife and you’ll be rewarded by arriving in La Gomera. A Biosphere Reserve, this green isle is characterised by its misty laurel forests, rocky ravines, valleys of palm groves and jagged cliffs plunging down to black sand beaches. Enjoy 600km of trails and astounding views, visit idyllic hamlets, sample palm honey, relax on quiet beaches and spot frolicking cetaceans.

ISRAEL

Tel Aviv offers that winning city/beach formula. Alongside golden sands are cultural treasures and cutting-edge dining and nightlife, from the honey-hued streets of historic Jaffa to Lev Ha’ir, which melds skyscrapers with Bauhaus architecture; start-ups with spice markets. Don’t miss the ancient relics of Jerusalem and other biblical towns, snorkelling in the Red Sea, relaxing in the Dead Sea and adventures in the Negev Desert.

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Y SIP A PINT AT YORK BREWER

48 HOURS IN

York

With everything from Viking history to designer shopping, York has more attractions per square mile than any other UK city, says

Laura Shepherd

Centrally located in the UK (but just two hours on the train from London), what lies within York’s ancient city walls will easily keep you busy for a full weekend. And it doesn’t matter what time of year you visit the city, but the cosy pubs lying off York’s cobbled streets are particularly alluring in winter.

Friday lunch

Visit Britain

YORK MINSTER

Get your bearings at the must-see York Minster. This beautiful gothic building, crafted in stone and stained glass, is one of the world’s most magnificent cathedrals and one of the Europe’s largest. Follow in the footsteps of Roman soldiers through underground chambers transformed with audiovisual and interactive galleries to discover the stories from a fascinating 1000-year history. For panoramic views of the city and countryside, climb the 275 steps to the top of the Minster. Head down to earth and to York’s most famous and most photographed street, the Shambles. The crooked old buildings are in touching distance of each other so you can wander leisurely between lovely boutiques, quirky shops and cosy cafés. The Shambles was apparently the inspiration behind J. K Rowling’s Diagon Alley and if you’re a Harry Potter fan you’ll soon see why.

Friday evening

If all the shopping has worked up an appetite, stroll back towards the river and the Star Inn the City, which has a beautiful open plan terrace looking over the Ouse and a seasonal Yorkshire-sourced menu. Alternatively, The Ivy on St Helen’s Square is a glamorous treat, especially if you’re with

A stone’s throw from the train station and with impressive views of the city, the Principal Hotel comfortably mixes traditional and modern touches across its range of beautiful rooms and suites. Check in and dump those bags. The Refectory Kitchen & Terrace is on site so you can refuel on classic British dishes without having to move.

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Friday afternoon

A short stroll across the River Ouse takes you to the York Museum Gardens, a lovely space to unwind after a journey. They are set amongst the atmospheric medieval ruins of St Mary’s Abbey and are free to visit every day.

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THE SHAMBLES

TTY’S

FAT RASCALS AT BE

your girlfriends, serving up great bistro-style food in a sophisticated but cosy setting.

Saturday morning

Head to York’s Chocolate Story and unwrap the history of this delicious treat in a 90-minute guided tour. You’ll learn some fun facts about the creation of York’s greatest chocolate products, including chocolate oranges and Kit Kats, and hear the stories behind the city’s famous sweet-making families – Terry, Craven and Rowntree. You’ll be pleased to hear that you get to taste along the way and create your very own chocolate lolly. Head to Coppergate and one of York’s most loved attractions, the Jorvik Viking Centre. Travel back in time on a chairlift through Viking-age streets to experience the sights, the sounds, and even the smells, of York over 1,000 years ago.

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Saturday afternoon

York has many great spots for afternoon tea but Betty’s is so good you should book ahead. It offers a traditional afternoon tea all day but the bookable option serves the scrumptious selection of sandwiches, scones and cakes in the beautiful Belmont Room. Betty’s also has treats

to take away in its bakery. Try a Fat Rascal, a cross between a scone and a rock cake.

Saturday evening

Wine and dine at The Rise Restaurant in the city’s only five star hotel, The Grand. Expect modern British cuisine in a luxurious setting with an open kitchen and a heated garden terrace. For your night cap, drop in to the Evil Eye Lounge. This quirky bar has a Guinness World Record for offering the most varieties of gin commercially available (1,028) and has a great gift shop too.

Sunday morning

Named one of the ‘best breakfast places in the UK’, the Pig and Pastry on Bishopthorpe Road (Bishy Road’, as the locals call it) has a fantastic choice of breakfast bowls, brunches and sandwiches, all made from regional ingredients. Try the BAFTA (a bacon, avocado, feta, tomato and aoli sandwich). Brew and Brownie on Museum Street also serves delicious breakfasts and has a Bake Shop so you can grab a tasty treat for the journey home. Last but not least, walk the city walls for the perfect end to your weekend. The full circle takes about two hours but it’s worth it for the amazing city views.

via the club and give

favourite charity.

ble.travel/ about

AN EVENING STROL L OF YORK’S WALLS

Visit Britain

Visit Britain / Matt Hilli

VIEW OF THE OUSE

UNTAIN

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CHARITABLE TRAVELLER

Ten uniquely luxurious

CARIBBEAN RESORTS Lizzi Trimble

Charitable Travel’s luxury expert shares her top recommendations for Caribbean hotels and resorts offering a distinctive take on luxury living

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JUMBY BAY HOTEL & RESORT, ANTIGUA Lizzi says: “Set on a private island, Jumby Bay is a gem with gorgeous accommodation and activities galore.” This all-inclusive’s one-bed rooms have plunge pools and its suites have a terrace and pool. There are two- to fourbedroom villas and residences with up to nine bedrooms and a fleet of staff. You’ll find tennis courts, a golf course, spa and kids club, while activities include rum tasting and yoga. Jumby Bay is big on recycling and has a turtle conservation project. Dining ranges from buffets to farm-to-table pop-up dinners.

SPICE ISLAND BEACH RESORT, GRENADA Lizzi says: “With beautiful suites on the beach, this all-inclusive’s biggest selling point is fine dining at Oliver’s.” This family-owned resort is a cluster of pretty white buildings scattered in the seagrapes at the quiet end of the Grand Anse Beach, but close enough to the action. There’s a tennis court, yoga pavilion, gym, watersports and a spa set around a lovely courtyard. The 64 villa-style suites come with an Alexa and while some open right onto the beach, others are set back with pools.

BEQUIA BEACH HOTEL, ST. VINCENT & THE GRENADINES Lizzi says: “A vintage resort with suites, cottages and villas. It even has its own yacht for excursions!” Bequia Beach Hotel has 56 rooms spread over 10 acres, mostly suites with large terraces. The décor includes smart wicker furniture and retro 1950s prints. Amenities include a private flight service, watersports and bike hire. There are two pools, a cute spa, a sauna and a gym. Enjoy Caribbean-European dishes and sea views in classy Bagatelle or head to the buzzy Jack’s Beach Bar on nearby Princess Margaret Beach.

EAST WINDS RESORT, SAINT LUCIA Lizzi says: “An intimate resort with a private beach and dining that is as sociable as you wish.” Thirty cottage-style suites and a beach house are tucked away amongst lush foliage alive with colourful birds. At this all-inclusive resort you can lounge at the beach, check into the spa, try complimentary watersports like hobie cat sailing lessons or take a yoga class in the ocean-facing pavilion. You can also eat and drink to your heart’s content – included is a silver service four-course dinner, Champagne on tap and private dining in a thatched cabana.

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Luxury top ten

JUNGLE BAY, DOMINICA Lizzi says: “Luxurious villas with access to wild jungle walks and a glorious spa.” Jungle Bay’s focus is on helping guests enjoy nature as well as top-notch service, enhancing the environment and improving the lives of local communities. Guests stay in pretty stone and wood villas overlooking a marine sanctuary and nestled in tropical forest. The sea-view restaurant serves organic Caribbean cuisine including vegan dishes. Guests can pamper themselves with yoga or treatments in the bamboo spa, relax in the infinity pool or hike to the famous hot pools.

YOUNG ISLAND RESORT, ST. VINCENT & THE GRENADINES Lizzi says: “Just 29 cottages on a tiny tropical island with stunning white beaches. Don’t miss a swim to the coconut bar in the sea!” This private island resort just off St. Vincent has a barefoot luxury vibe, with cottages dotted along the beach and up the hillside, each coming with rustic wicker furniture, local art and open-air showers. Luxury rooms come with a plunge pool. Guests have access to a spa, pool, tennis courts, kayaks and boats. Dining is on the beach in open-air, thatched roof huts, with local specialities and freshly baked bread.

AS GOOD AS IT GETS

Whether you’re dreaming of a silky beach on a private island, a stylish hotel in a vibrant city or a jungle trek to spy exotic wildlife, Charitable Travel Luxury will help you will help you plan your ideal holiday and donate 5% of the price to a UK charity of your choice at no extra cost.

Wherever it is, a luxury holiday always centres on discovering unique destinations and enjoying authentic experiences. With over 25 years’ experience in luxury travel and Charitable Travel’s #TravelForGood ethos at heart, our expert Lizzi is waiting to craft a trip that is your kind of luxury.

luxury@charitable.travel / 020 3092 2558 / charitable.travel/luxury 58 OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2021

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Luxury top ten

JAMAICA INN, JAMAICA Lizzi says: Small, classy and intimate, this long-established hotel has service so good that they’ll know your name next time you visit.” Join the likes of Marilyn Monroe and check into this historic resort set on private Champagne-hued sands. Veranda suites, beach bungalows and one- or two-bedroom cottages all have sea views. Enjoy kayaking, paddle boarding, spa treatments made with local plants and global cuisine with a Jamaican twist on a starlit terrace. The hotel supports various local causes.

PETER ISLAND RESORT & SPA, BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS Lizzi says: “You can sail into this exclusive resort on your yacht, and many do. Don’t miss the beautiful Ayurvedic spa, if you can tear yourself away from the beach.” Set in 1,800 acres, this 55-room private island resort has five beaches. Ocean view rooms have huge balconies; junior suites accommodate four with a Jacuzzi and the palatial villas come with staff. Guests can spend the day cycling, beach-hopping, playing volleyball, basketball or tennis, doing watersports or lazing in the spa or by the pool. Food ranges from fancy AsianCaribbean at Tradewinds to burgers at Deadman’s Beach Bar.

GOLDEN ROCK INN, NEVIS Lizzi says: “If you like quirky you’ll love this shabbychic hotel. Enjoy jungle walks on your doorstep or lie by the tranquil pool surrounded by greenery.” This unique resort, owned by artists, is set on an old sugar estate and is bursting with colour, from the tropical foliage that hugs it to the striking décor which contrasts with the stone buildings. There are 11 rooms and cottages, styled with eclectic art and furniture. The Rocks restaurant serves artful Caribbean fusion food while the bar has stand-out cocktails. Tours of the magnificent 40-acre garden are a must.

LITTLE GOOD HARBOUR, BARBADOS Lizzi says: “A tiny, quirky hotel with casually stylish rooms. Famous for its Fish Pot restaurant.” Located in a quiet fishing village, this fresh and breezy beach hotel caters for all with its one-, two- and three-bedroom suites. The clapboard cottages come with garden or sea views and kitchens (you can order groceries). There are two pools and you can use the kayaks or hire Captain Dwayne and his water taxi. The Fish Pot serves modern Caribbean cuisine in a 17th-century fort of coral and stone, with a whitewashed deck looking out to sea.

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THIS SEPTEMBER

inspired at et

good news A place to stay

1000S OF PEOPLE UP

New eco-friendly glamping in Japan

AND DOWN THE UK

Fujinomiya, offering guests a more natural all-inclusive escape.

TOOK PART IN THE

l ve

GLOBAL

aritable.tr a ch

Mt.Fuji Satoyama Vacation is a new luxury glamping site in rural Boasting views of Mount Fuji and surrounded by nature, the site is comprised of spacious yurt-style tents furnished with comfortable

GREAT BRITISH

beds, handmade furniture and heaters powered with solar

BEACH CLEAN, A

serving local farm produce and washrooms. The site is run by En-

CITIZEN SCIENCE

tourism experiences that also support the local community.

energy. Communal areas include a sociable lounge, a cafeteria Ya Mt.Fuji Ecotours, a local business specialising in sustainable

EVENT THAT ALSO GATHERS ESSENTIAL DATA ON LITTER.

Going green

easyjet’s committment easyjet holidays (offered by Charitable Travel) has announced ambitious sustainability commitments for the next five years. Supported by consumer research which showed that 65% of people think holiday companies could be doing more to encourage customers to travel sustainably, it has committed that all its holidays will directly support sustainable practices and all its hotels will have certification by a Global Sustainable Tourism Council accredited body, or similar, by the end of 2025.

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Global good news

New routes

Good to know...

Carbon initiative

MAKE LIKE A TREE The Conservation Volunteers are on an ‘I Dig Trees’ mission with UK communities to reach 2 million trees planted by spring next year. The charity will commence planting on October 1 to mark the start of the

Sustainability goals

UN Climate Change Conference in Glasgow.

TRAFALGAR MAKES TRAVEL MATTER

tcv.org.uk

Get on your bike ESTONIA’S NEW CYCLE MAP

Holiday provider Trafalgar (bookable via Charitable Travel) has announced it will increase its sustainable travel initiatives by offering

Being a predominantly flat

at least one Make Travel Matter experience

country, Estonia is an ideal

on every land tour by 2023. The experiences,

destination for budding

launched last year, aim to have a positive

cyclists and it has just

impact on destinations and are assessed

launched a new digital map showing all the paths you can take on wheels. There are over 6,500km of trails throughout the

against criteria tied to the UN Sustainable Development Goals. There are 98 available so far and they include visiting a female-owned craft cooperative helping women in rural Jordan.

country, the majority of

British Airways will begin flying to the Azores islands of São Miguel and Terceira next summer. The two direct seasonal flights will operate weekly, starting in July, from Heathrow, making the Portuguese Atlantic archipelago much easier to reach for Brits.

which are off-road, and the digital map incorporates 70 routes graded by ability.

Fundraising

RANGER AID This September more than 150 ranger

Wildlife escape

A RHINO-FOCUSED HOLIDAY Hotel group Mantis has

teams across Africa took

announced a new Rhino

part in the 2021 Wildlife

Conservation Experience

Ranger Challenge, along

which offers travellers a four-

with supporters back in

day immersion into the battle

the UK, to raise money

to protect rhinos at Mantis

for the thousands of the men and women on Africa’s front line. against poaching who have seen an increase in poaching and a loss of tourism due to Covid-19. You can still donate here: wildliferangerchallenge.org

Founders Lodge in South Africa. The first experience runs October 26-29 but more dates will be available next year. It includes walking safaris and game drives with Mantis guides and rhino conservation education sessions.

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Global good news

Wedding joy

Following a change in marriage law, The Islands of Guernsey can now allow nonresidents to exchange vows on the isles. Romantic castles, historic forts and a beachside chapel are all possible nuptial venues.

Build back better

GO CARBON NEUTRAL IN MAURITIUS Heritage Resorts is offering carbon neutral hotel stays in Mauritius from this October. The company will offer guests at both Heritage Le Telfair and Heritage Awali in Bel Ombre a greener stay by offsetting all the CO2 emissions that would be generated by their hotel stay. This will be achieved by the purchase of carbon credits with the Aera Group, an environmental commodity trader, and through local carbon offset projects including the construction of a solar-powered farm. The initiative is part of a wider sustainability commitment.

Disadvantaged pupils are less likely to achieve their academic potential. We're committed to closing the gap.

Will you join us? Action Tutoring tackles educational inequality by offering free maths and English tutoring to disadvantaged pupils. By volunteering as a tutor for just one hour a week at a local school, or online, you can give vital support to pupils whose families couldn't otherwise afford it.

Support Action Tutoring through Charitable Travel by clicking here.

charitable.travel/Joali

THERE’S NEVER BEEN A BETTER TIME TO TRAVEL Restrictions are easing and our wonderful world is opening up Whether you’re eager to get the blood pumping on a ski trip, shopping until you drop at a Christmas Market, or maybe soaking up some vitamin D on a beach, book your winter escape with Charitable Travel and donate 5% of the price to the charity of your choice - completely free!

We can offer you... ✓ A range of worldwide holidays

✓ Up-to-date Expert Knowledge

✓ ATOL protection

✓ Secure donations with JustGiving

✓ Financial protection

✓ Trusted suppliers

Book with confidence

#TRAVELFORGOOD WITH CHARITABLE TRAVEL charitable.travel / 020 3092 1288 / bookings@charitable.travel Putting our profit to work supporting the work of charitable causes Fundraising Futures Community Interest Company, Contingent Works, Broadway Buildings, Elmfield Road, Bromley, Kent BR1 1LW ALL PACKAGE HOLIDAYS ARE ATOL AND TRUST PROTECTED.

Charitable Traveller Magazine - October/November 2021- Issue 7

Articles inside

Top ten: Uniquely luxurious Caribbean resorts

48 hours in... York

Get to know: Québec

Why I donated to

Postcard from: The Pacific

Tokyo: Old meets new

Travel talk with

Postcard from: Austin, USA

Q&A with

Five... European Christmas markets

A day in the life of... Tracey

Travel talk with... Giles

Armchair travel

Get the picture

Get to know: Qatar