Green Traveller - April-May24 - issue5

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RETURN TO the Med

Explore ecotourism in a network of natural parks

Menu from Athens

Tips for volunteering abroad

UK campsites reachable by public transport +

IT’S TIME TO TAKE STEPS TO TRAVEL BETTER

AT SUSTAINABLE JOURNEYS, WE AIM TO OFFER UNFORGETTABLE TRAVEL EXPERIENCES THAT NOT ONLY SHOWCASE THE BEAUTY AND DIVERSITY OF OUR PLANET BUT ALSO SUPPORT THE WELL-BEING OF LOCAL COMMUNITIES AND THE PRESERVATION OF NATURAL AND CULTURAL HERITAGE.

WE ARE COMMITTED TO ALIGNING OUR PRACTICES AS CLOSELY AS POSSIBLE WITH THE UNITED NATIONS WORLD TOURISM ORGANIZATION’S DEFINITION OF SUSTAINABLE TOURISM, WHICH EMPHASISES ENVIRONMENTAL CONSERVATION, SOCIAL INCLUSIVITY, AND ECONOMIC SUSTAINABILITY.

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FRONT COVER: @MEET Network (Chris Willan/Green Traveller).

Left to right: Champing; Dishoom/Food Made Good; Beat Brechbühl/Lucerne Tourism.

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CEO: Melissa Tilling; SALES: Alison Nicholls; MAGAZINE EDITOR: Richard Hammond; DEPUTY

EDITOR: Rebecca Miles (editor@ charitable.travel); MAGAZINE

DESIGNER: Claire Gates

GOOD TO KNOW

Where you see these symbols throughout the magazine you can be assured that the destinations featured can be reached without flying or that the activities featured are likely to have a positive impact for the community, environment or wildlife in the region.

Welcome to Green Traveller

Welcome to the fifth issue of Green Traveller magazine. Feasting on local, seasonal food washed down with the resident tipple conveys a sense of place better than any travel brochure yet navigating through the

I was amazed to see how the Flixbus coach service has flourished in recent years –there were dozens lined up

ethical choices can be a minefield, so we’ve put together a handy guide to organisations that can help point the way to more sustainable food and drink, on p28.

Diana Jarvis’s regular feature about responsible photography on p4, is about South Africa’s first all-female anti-poaching unit that are based in Balule Nature Reserve, part of the Greater Kruger National Park. We’ve also got a feature on holidays in history (p14), where you can relive times past at castles, forts, towers, museums and cottages while helping contribute to the preservation of national heritage, plus we’ve

got a handy guide to volunteering on p10. Our overland feature is a journey I made with my two boys at half-term to Lucerne in Switzerland by train. On the way back, we returned by Flixbus, a journey of 19 hours from Basel to London. At our stop at the coach station in Paris Bercy, I was amazed to see just how this coach service has flourished in recent years –there were dozens of coaches lined up along the platforms, offering a comfortable lowcost city-to-city service that’s proving an attractive alternative to driving long distances.

Flixbus has recently launched its first long distance 100% electric service from Wales to England that you can read more about in our Global News page. Our cover story is on the resurgence of ecotourism in the Mediterranean (p20), plus we have a feature on brilliant campsites in the UK that are reachable by public transport (p34).

Happy green travelling!

Editor, Green Traveller magazine

Contents April/May 2024

Get the PICTURE

The Black Mambas are South Africa’s first all-female anti-poaching unit, based in Balule Nature Reserve, part of the Greater Kruger National Park. Their approach to policing the area is novel because they’re unarmed and, instead, use nonviolence and embedded community involvement to spread the conservation message. Tour operator Intrepid offers a wonderful opportunity to stay overnight with the Black Mambas, which means the legwork is already done, ensuring the visit is responsibly organised and environmentally sound.

3views of THE BLACK MAMBAS

Words & pictures by Diana Jarvis (dianajarvis.co.uk)

The visit starts with an overview of poaching in Kruger. Their primary responsibility is protecting the extensive rhino population from large-scale international trade, but they also have to gently deal with local people snaring other creatures just to put food on the table.

The troupe have been in business for ten years and you can now visit them at their headquarters – as well as camp overnight with them in the heart of the bush – via selected tours with Intrepid.

Each of the Mambas spoke eloquently and with great pride about their run-ins with both poachers and ensnared animals during a sunset patrol and later round the campfire.

Global good news

FOR SMARTER TRAVEL

ELECTRIC COACH TRAVEL IS HERE

Coach operator Flixbus has launched its first 100% electric long-distance coach service in England and Wales. The zeroemissions electric vehicle will be trialled for three months on FlixBus’ long-distance coach network with operator partner Newport Transport, so travellers will be able to try out the electric vehicle on the operator’s route between London, Bristol and Newport (South Wales) until June.

“This is a huge step forward for the UK coach sector, transforming the already low-carbon mode of transport to zero-

emission at the tailpipe through innovative technology,” said Andreas Schorling, managing director of FlixBus UK.

Ticket prices start from just £2.99, and the 46-seat vehicle includes a toilet, USB charging points and free Wi-Fi for all customers (as is standard on FlixBus services). The coaches are also PSVAR compliant, supporting travel for passengers in wheelchairs. Flixbus says the vehicle “will save 352kg of carbon emissions per day driven on this route compared to the average diesel-fuelled coach, as well as improve air quality”.

Most watched video on greentraveller.co.uk this month: Climate Smart Holidays in West Sweden

Writer of the Year in the Trav Media Awards 2024

VIVE L’ÉLECTRICITÉ!

The famous red and white boats of Lake Annecy in the Annecy Mountains are going ‘all electric’. The emblematic Libellule has already been converted, while The Cygne is currently in dry dock for an all-electric release planned for mid-July 2024. bateaux-annecy.com

VALENCIA LAUNCHES GREEN ROUTES

The Spanish city of Valencia, The European Green Capital 2024, has unveiled a series of routes showcasing the city’s sustainability achievements across three themes: Nature, promoting natural areas such as the Albufera Natural Park, the Valencian orchard and the Turia Gardens; Sustainable mobility, promoting the use of public transport, cycling and walking, and the recovery of Public space, including the Turia Gardens and the Marina de València.

INHABIT LONDON GAINS B CORP

Inhabit, the wellness hotel in Queen’s Gardens, London, has been certified by B Corp – the certification system that verifies companies who meet high standards in social and environmental performance, transparency and accountability, balancing people, planet and profit.

The hotel joins its sister site, Inhabit, Southwick Street, in gaining the robust certification. Both ‘zero waste to landfill’ hotels, Inhabit works with Globechain, a British marketplace that redistributes unwanted items by connecting corporations to charities

and families and thereby diverting items from landfill. Inhabit also works closely with social enterprises, fellow B Corp businesses and small, socially-conscious suppliers with refill systems, those without plastic packaging and those using net-zero transportation. Suite mini bars are stocked by Social Supermarket, whose snacks and drinks are all ethically made by social enterprises, and its furniture and furnishings are made by brands including London furniture makers Goldfinger and ethical homewares label Kalinko.

Green Traveller’s Richard Hammond has been nominated as a finalist for Sustainability

NEW SITE FOR CAMPSITES WITH CUSTODIANS

The Aboriginal-owned and operated campground initiative ‘Campsites with Custodians’ in Western Australia is opening a seventh site, on the beautiful Thomas Bay north of Broome. Visitors will be able to catch a fresh feast of mud crab or take a kayak tour and spend time snorkelling in crystal clear waters abundant with sea life. Set amid some of the Kimberley and the

HOSTELWORLD’S

Pilbara’s most remote landscapes, the campgrounds offer a unique opportunity to experience the local way of life. There are currently six locations at Imintji, Mimbi, Violet Valley, Doon Doon Roadhouse and Djarindjin (in the Kimberley) and Peedamulla (in the Pilbara). Each grants access to a host of authentic Aboriginal cultural experiences.

STAIRCASE

TO SUSTAINABILITY

The online travel agent for hostelling, Hostelworld, has unveiled a new framework to communicate and elevate sustainability practices in the industry. Working with the Global Sustainable Tourism Council, its ‘Staircase to Sustainability’ framework is tailored to hostels, and will provide guests with clear information on their sustainability management practices, as well as their socio-economic, cultural and environmental impact.

WIN LONELY PLANET’S

FLIGHT-FREE EUROPE

Discover 80 inspiring and sustainable no-fly travel itineraries

Avoid airport stress and see the best of Europe by train, boat or bicycle with these no-fly trips from Lonely Planet’s Flight-Free Europe book. You’ll find 80 detailed, stop-bystop itineraries ranging in length from a long weekend to a month or more. Taking in cities, natural wonders, activities and some very delicious food, these trips take in the best of Europe in the most sustainable way possible.

Mixing practical details, such as guide prices, transfer times and connection information, with plenty of colour and description, this book is all you need to have a lower carbon footprint on your next trip. Giving you the chance to explore the joy of slow, more climate-friendly travel, Flight-Free Europe encourages deeper, more meaningful journeys and includes detailed route maps, beautiful imagery and useful suggestions.

Thanks to Eurostar connections and the

extensive and ever-growing network of highspeed trains, which rival planes for end-toend journey times, exploring the continent has never been easier.

Holiday highlights to try include a beer pilgrimage to Belgium, taking in Brussels, Antwerp and Bruges, a gastronomy tour of northern Italy, travelling from Paris to Bologna, Modena, Parma, Milan, Turin and Genoa, and hiking into the wild heart of Scotland, via Glasgow, Corrour, Loch Erica, Dalwhinnie and Edinburgh.

Make the most of Europe’s complementary intercity, regional and local train services, interspersed with ferry, bus, cycling and hiking trails, and it couldn’t be easier to have wonderful low-carbon adventures exploring the continent.

Lonely Planet’s Flight-Free Europe is out now in hardback for £19.99, available where all good books are sold.

WIN!

We’ve got 10 copies of Lonely Planet’s Flight-Free Europe to give away – to be in with a chance of winning one, visit charitable.travel/lonely-planet to enter our competition

HOW TO BE A GREENER TRAVELLER

Make the most of volunteering overseas

Committed, long-term volunteering abroad requires preparation so make sure you plan well ahead. There are hundreds of volunteering organisations, but some are more transparent than others on how your money is spent and how your work will benefit the destination. If you’re considering signing up, here are a few questions to ask yourself and the organisation.

Can I afford it?

The listed price of a placement typically covers accommodation, food and local transport, but don’t forget that volunteering abroad, especially to developing countries, might incur extra charges, such as vaccinations and visas, as well as the cost of travelling there.

How does the placement fee break down?

Ask what proportion of the money you spend goes on internal administration costs, staff wages, your food and accommodation and training, and how much actually goes on the project itself.

What work will I be doing?

Find out exactly what sort of work you’ll be doing (not just in general terms) as well as how many hours a day and how many days a week you’ll be expected to work. Also, check that the volunteer work you’ll be doing couldn’t be done by locals who would actually earn a wage from doing the work instead of you.

What is the impact of the work?

Does the organisation monitor and evaluate the efficacy of the project to ensure it really is making a genuine difference, whether that’s to biodiversity conservation or community development?

FOCUS ON: WWOOF

Founded in 1971, World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms is a worldwide movement that links volunteers with organic farmers to help support ecological farming, including in the UK. In return for helping out on the farm, you receive free board and lodging. wwoof.net

The organisation should match your skills to relevant projects, so be wary if there’s no selection process

How did the project come about?

The most worthwhile projects often originate from local people who have sought out specific help from international agencies to select volunteers on a committed long-term basis. The organisation should match your skills to relevant projects, so be wary if there’s no selection process or if the organisation doesn’t try and find out who you are and learn more about your interests and skills. Ask whether you’ll be working with a local NGO or charity, and if someone from that organisation will be involved in the day-to-day running of the project.

Will they give you support?

Good organisations usually offer pre-departure training and provide further training, support and guidance during the project. Make sure there is someone at the destination who has direct responsibility for you and can help should any issues arise.

What’s the feedback like from other volunteers?

Check the social media channels of the organisation and read what previous volunteers have posted about the placement using relevant hashtags. Also, try and speak to someone who has been on the trip and, ideally, worked on your specific project, and ask to see the feedback forms of previous volunteers to see what challenges they faced.

The menu from ATHENS

Whether you’re after a humble oregano-sprinkled souvlaki takeaway, a ‘proper’ Greek coffee in a street-side cafe, or a Michelin-starred blow-out in an elegant rooftop restaurant with Acropolis views, Athens has it all. Here are three of our favourite places to eat and drink in the Greek capital

Words by Clare Hargreaves

KOSTAS, AGIAS IRINIS SQUARE

It’s little more than a hole in the wall, but this unassuming-looking place in gorgeous Agia Irini square, is a dearly loved Athenian institution. Owner Kostas grills up tasty pork souvlaki and bifteki (hamburger) and serves them in pittas with freshly cut tomatoes and herbs. They’re doused with a splash of yoghurt and a spoonful of spicy tomato sauce for which the recipe is a closely guarded secret. Kostas closes at 5pm or when the food runs out, so get there early to ensure you don’t miss out on one of Athens’ tastiest takeaways.

SIX D.O.G.S CAFÉ

Part cocktail bar, part gig space, part garden, this super-trendy joint in the heart of Monastiraki calls itself an all-day all-night cultural entertainment centre. Descend the steps into its vast multi-tiered

garden and you enter a magical Tardislike oasis that feels a million miles from Athens’ hectic streets. Sip cocktails and listen to live music under the trees, or

place to sample some of the country’s best. Sit outside in the glitzy arcade, or perch at the slick hand-crafted bar inside to try some of the 200-odd wines available by the

Travel to Athens the romantic way: take the train to Venice then the ferry to the Greek port of Patras from where you can take a bus to Athens

snuggle inside one of its indoor spaces for something more intimate. Come here for art exhibitions, club nights, home-made pies, and much more. sixdogs.gr

BY THE GLASS

Greek wines have come on in leaps and bounds in recent decades, and this wine bar, tucked inside the Ralli Arcade next to the Russian Orthodox church, is a gorgeous

glass – thanks to Coravin, the gismo that extracts wine without disturbing the cork. Pair them with delicious island-hopping delicacies to make a meal of it, guided by the expert in-house sommelier. Fabulous. bytheglass.gr

For other places to eat and drink in Athens as well as more information about the city, see Green Traveller’s Guide to Athens

Clare Hargreaves

Postcard from FRANKFURT

Home to trade fairs since 1240, Frankfurt has long been a commercially important city; where once the Italians and Dutch traded fine silks and spices at the Römer in the city square, now Europeans and Americans trade bonds and shares in its skyscrapers.

Slightly worried we’d come on holiday to London’s Canary Wharf by mistake, it was a joy to find ourselves among the newly rebuilt

Old Town (destroyed by Allied bombing in 1944) with Mancunian-turned-local tour guide Dave Jones. He gave us a potted history of Frankfurt’s key role in the Holy Roman Empire and the Napoleonic wars, before leading us to the Main river and the site of several of Frankfurt’s many museums, from art galleries – both contemporary and renaissance –to celebrations of its most famous son, Germany’s answer to Shakespeare, Goethe.

Frankfurt’s public transport, including trams, underground trains and buses, is patrolled by plainclothes fare inspectors carrying out spot checks; there are no turnstiles or ticket barriers across the network

My husband and I were visiting with our seven-year-old, so we made a beeline for Experiminta, a hands-on science centre full of fun experiments, before heading to the Dialog museum, a social enterprise that recreates the experience of the visually impaired – its immersive KlangRaum took us on an auditory tour of the city in the dark.

If my husband had been here alone, he’d have spent all his

time in Momem, the museum of modern electronic music, but instead we went off in search of frankfurter sausages at the Kleinmarkthalle, an indoor market open daily with over 60 stalls of local suppliers and ready to eat food.

The Schreiber counter delivers almighty frankfurters (Ilse has been serving them since 1958), and we enjoy other specialities, including green sauce (a creamy herb secret recipe served with hard-boiled eggs) and apple wine, at the traditional DauthSchneider restaurant, round the corner from our hotel, Libertine Lindenburg, in the Old Sachsenhausen district south of the river. A Green Sign-certified hotel, with its 27 onebedroom suites, vegan breakfast and attic kitchen and communal space it’s a far cry from Frankfurt’s numerous corporate hotels. Turns out there’s more to Frankfurt than Canary Wharf-style skyscrapers.

For more inspiration, see Green Traveller’s Guide to Germany

Words by Rebecca Miles

Rebecca Miles

Rebecca Miles

Rebecca Miles

LIBERTINE LINDENBURG

EXPERIMINTA

7of the best HOLIDAYS IN HISTORY

Relive times past at castles, forts, towers, museums and cottages where your stay will help contribute to the preservation of national heritage

Words by Richard Hammond

LUNDY ISLAND

Just 10 nautical miles off the north coast of Devon, Lundy Island feels like another world. It’s a terrific place to go for a long weekend’s mini adventure. The island is only 3 miles long and half a mile wide, but there are plenty of things to do, including birdwatching, climbing, fishing, snorkelling and diving – Lundy’s Marine Protected Area is one of the UK’s prime diving sites with clear waters, a huge diversity of marine life and 10 shipwreck dive sites.

You can choose from an eclectic mix of accommodation, including a simple fisherman’s cottage, a 13th-century castle, a late Georgian villa, a lighthouse, the isolated coastguard’s off-grid watchhouse, and a traditional campsite (numbers are limited to 40 people). There is locally brewed beer at the island’s pub, the Marisco Tavern, which also provides fireside meals with everything cooked in-house. Lundy Island is looked after by the Landmark Trust, which protects historic buildings and other places of historical interest. By staying in its properties, you can help contribute to their upkeep and preservation. landmarktrust.org.uk

CASTELL HENLLYS, PEMBROKESHIRE

This is a unique Iron Age village recreated by the Pembrokeshire National Park Authority using replica roundhouses, standing in the exact same place that the structures originally stood around 2,400 years ago. It is surrounded by woodland and river meadows, and has a visitor centre, sculpture trails and excellent exhibitions. You’ll get to explore the roundhouses, grind flour and make bread just like the Celts used to, while your entrance fee will contribute to maintaining this important archaeological site. castellhenllys.com

STAY NEARBY: At North Lodge Eco Holidays, a smallholding set in a beautiful piece of countryside overlooking the Preseli mountains. Not only does the site offer up a truly green organic B&B (run entirely from alternative energy sources), but also a traditional ‘green’ camping site, complete with on-site recycling and composting facilities, and a fantastic log cabin that offers great views out over the Preseli Hills. eco-camping.co.uk

GRIMSBY FISHING HERITAGE CENTRE

Get a flavour of what it was like to be a Grimsby trawlerman in the 1950s – one of the most dangerous peacetime occupations in the UK. This fascinating museum will transport you back in time to when the town was one of the world’s premier fishing ports, with carefully crafted sets and original preserved trawler interiors as well as the sights, sounds and smells that capture the essence of this remarkable way of life. fishingheritage.com

STAY NEARBY: By Peoples Park, Millfields Hotel is just five minutes by bus into the city centre from where it’s a short stroll to the museum by the River Freshney. millfieldshotel.co.uk

HADRIAN’S WALL, NORTHUMBERLAND

Stonehenge is the jewel in the crown of English Heritage, but there are over 400 other wonderful historic monuments, buildings and places that the conservation organization manages, from prehistoric sites and abbeys to grand medieval castles and Cold War bunkers. One of the most fascinating is the series of Roman forts along Hadrian’s Wall in Northumberland, where you can find out what life was like on the frontier of Roman Britain. english-heritage.org.uk.

STAY NEARBY: Relax by the cosy fireplace in winter and in the secret walled garden in summer at Battlesteads Hotel and Restaurant, a family-run inn deep in Hadrian’s Wall and Border Country. Tuck into locally sourced seasonal food and explore the surrounding castles and Roman ruins. battlesteads.com

© Jill Tate/Landmark Trust

© Landmark Trust

SNORKEL SAFARI

GOVERMENT HOUSE

CHAMPING

Champing (church camping) is essentially glamping in a church, with camp beds under a beautifully timeworn vaulted roof and surrounded by ancient stone pillars. Run by the Churches Conservation Trust, a charity which maintains over 350 historic churches in the UK as a way of funding its conservation work, the scheme has been such a success that it now operates at over 15 locations. Each participating church sleeps between four and 16 guests. Locations range from the chalky Dunstable Downs in Buckinghamshire to the wild heights of Dartmoor, the wide plains of East Anglia, the Ribble Valley in Lancashire that’s handy for the Forest of Bowland Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, and as far north as St Peter’s Kirk on Orkney. At each church you’re provided with chairs, tables, basic teaand coffee-making facilities and exclusive use of your chosen church between 6pm and 10am. If you don’t want to pack a sleeping bag you can pay extra to have the beds made up with duvets, blankets and hot-water bottles before you arrive. The churches come with a water supply and basic toilets though heating is rare – so the champing season is usually limited to stays between late March and the end of September. champing.co.uk

SILBURY HILL, WILTSHIRE

One of the most understated of English Heritage’s attractions, it’s the largest artificial mound in Europe (comparable in size to the Egyptian pyramids) that archeologists think was probably completed around 2400 BC. Its purpose and signficance remain unknown. english-heritage.org.uk

STAY NEARBY: Go for full heritage immersion at Avebury Lodge, a vegetarian B&B right next to the historic stone circle at Avebury, a short walk from Silbury Hill. aveburylodge.co.uk

HARLECH CASTLE

Harlech Castle, Gwynedd CADW is the Welsh Government’s historic environment service that cares for historic buildings and places (‘Cadw’ is a Welsh word meaning ‘to keep’ or ‘to protect’). It manages over 120 places, from ancient burial chambers and monuments to abbeys and castles. One of the most impressive is Harlech Castle, set on a spectacular sheer rocky crag overlooking the dunes of Cardigan Bay. cadw.gov.wales

STAY NEARBY: A homely eco guesthouse, Bryn Elltyd is in a picturesque setting where all the energy is from renewables, with easy open access to the mountains from the door and the wonderful Ffestiniog steam train curls around the grounds. accommodation-snowdonia.com

This is an edited extract from The Green Traveller (£18.99 Pavilion Books) by Richard Hammond

©

CCT

WROXETER CHAMPING

LANGPORT CHAMPING

Get to know VIRGINIA BEACH

WHAT’S IT ALL ABOUT?

Sweeping along North America’s East Coast for a dazzling 35 miles, Virginia Beach’s wide buttery sands and seaside-y vibe is the epitome of the all-American beach resort. Often considered the birthplace of the United States as we know it, the first Europeans landed at Cape Henry in 1607 before scuttling over to Jamestown to settle. In its blessed position, where Chesapeake Bay meets the Atlantic Ocean, it’s as popular with dolphins and humpback whales as it is with surfers and spring breakers who all flock to its shores for its sunny beach vibes.

UNDER THE BOARDWALK

A salt-tinged seaside resort at heart, Virginia Beach Boardwalk is the cotton candy-scented heart of the city. Built in 1888, the threemile long boardwalk is now home to a raft of pastel-hued ocean hotels, seafood diners and buzzy beach bars. King Neptune, a 24ft high bronze statue, commands the ocean from the boardwalk, which is alive with music, street theatre and artists all summer. Cycling, rollerblading and leisurely strolling are the main forms of ambulation, although vintage trolleys run along Atlantic Avenue and the Bay between May and September.

LAKE RUDEE

BEACH BLANKET BABYLON

As blissfully blonde beaches lapped by a consistent surf are the main draw to VB, it’s important to enjoy the ocean responsibly, so ditch the jet skis and speedboats and opt for paddle power instead. Dolphins adore the waters around Virginia Beach and are frequently spotted close to the coast during dawn and dusk. Head to First Landing State Park and the Rudee Inlet and hop on a guided kayaking or stand up paddle-boarding dolphin-watching tour. Come winter, Chesapeake Bay becomes a playground for juvenile humpback whales who flock for the fishes.

AND ANOTHER THING...

Lynnhaven oysters

LOVED BY QUEEN VICTORIA

Also called America’s First Oyster, the plump, saliferous molluscs were a favourite of Queen Victoria, who named them Lynnhaven Fancies.

PLUCK YOUR OWN

Captain Chris Ludford offers boat tours of his Pleasure House oyster farm, where you can pluck and eat the freshest Lynnhaven Fancies with your toes in the water.

HOP ON AN OYSTER TRAIL

Such is the love for these little molluscs, they even have a dedicated trail. The Virginia Oyster Trail includes a map of farm tours and tastings, to ‘merroir-terroir’ dining experiences, which pair oysters with home-grown regional produce.

EPICUREAN EAST COAST

Ice cream and saltwater taffy aside, Virginia Beach is all about sparklingly fresh seafood. A bastion of farm-to-table and tide-to-table dining, restaurants like Commune and Catch 31 are all about local, sustainably sourced produce. Virginia Aquarium’s Marine Science Centre leads VB’s Sensible Seafood Programme, which promotes ocean-friendly seafood and encourages choosing locally caught varieties such as striped bass, flounder and sea trout.

WHERE THERE’S GRIT THERE’S GOLD

Virginia Beach has a unique approach to managing waste –turn it into a leisure park. Mount Trashmore is an excellent example of landfill reuse. Made from compacted layers of solid waste and topped with clean soil and turf, this huge man-made mountain with walking trails, a skate park and a fishing lake has become a symbol of environmental awareness and is one of Virginia Beach’s biggest attractions.

Stretching for nearly 18 miles, the Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel connects Virginia Beach with the Eastern Shore and is considered one of the Seven Engineering Wonders of the Modern World

WALK ON THE WILD SIDE

Aside from its seemingly endless sands and navy ocean, Virginia Beach runs the full gamut of coastal dunes, maritime forests and wetlands, all of which are a haven for the finned and feathered. There are numerous conservation programmes in place to protect local wildlife and their habitats, and one of the best is Back Bay National Wildlife Refuge. Situated southeast of the city, its diverse ecosystems, including marshland and forest, attract such birds as American bald eagles, piping plovers and peregrine falcons.

PLEASURE HOUSE OYSTER FARM

FIRST LANDING STATE PARK

PLEASURE HOUSE OYSTER FARM

BACK BAY WILDLIFE REFUGE

Remaking the Med

Explore the network of natural parks across the Mediterranean that are taking the lead on responsible tourism with a series of eco tours aimed at protecting the region’s biodiversity

Words by Natalie Beckett

The Mediterranean, with its sparkling blue sea, sandy coves tucked among cliffs and many picturesque islands, is famed for its natural beauty. And over the past decade, certain trends and events, including the move towards greater awareness of wellbeing, the impact of the pandemic and the increased reach of social media, have propelled nature-centric trips and holidays into the mainstream. As more tourists flock to the Med, natural parks in the region have reaped the benefits, but the footfall has come at a cost.

Exploitation of the Mediterranean’s most precious natural habitats has increased and this popularity is putting a strain on the Med’s biodiversity.

Ironically, it is the beauty of these natural landscapes and their Instagrammable potential that has everyone visiting in the first place. Yet despite this, there are also natural parks in the region that remain undiscovered and are suffering the opposite problem, a lack of tourism.

But a group of natural parks and conservation and tourism organisations are combating this by taking the reins and running their own ecotourism experiences. Operating as the MEET (Mediterranean Experiences of Eco Tourism) Network and set up in 2018, the parks are empowering their local communities and supporting nature conservation efforts, while also attracting tourists. MEET was created with the belief that if the parks played a

more active role in tourism, their biodiversity would be protected and any profits would drive local economic growth.

With support from EU-funded programmes (which has identified sustainable tourism development as a priority for the region), the MEET Network created a catalogue of what they call ‘park-led’ ecotourism experiences. These multi-day ecotourism packages aim to allow visitors to re-discover Mediterranean natural parks through a new naturefocused lens, while also giving them the opportunity to connect with local people and their traditions. Turn the page to see the Med in a new light.

©MEET Network (Author: Green Traveller)

Green Traveller’s Richard Hammond journeyed around the Mediterranean to experience MEET’s unique form of ecotourism first hand, producing videos about the unique experiences in each location. Here’s a taste of what travellers can expect

Cres Lošinj Natura 2000 Site, Croatia

In Croatia we explore the stunning Cres Lošinj Natura 2000 Site on an ecotourism tour designed to appeal to all the senses. Discover the mountainous islands of Cres and Losinj and enjoy their pristine beaches and clear blue waters which are home to the only resident populations of dolphins in the Adriatic Sea.

Porto Conte, Sardinia

A walking, e-bike and sailing tour of this special part of the island. Visit the prehistoric megalithic known as Nuraghi and sail to the Cape known as the “Sleeping Giant” where inside we find the famous stalactite cave of “Neptune’s Grotto”.

E-BIKING ON SARDINIA

©MEET Network (Author: Green Traveller)

Divjakë Karavasta National Park, Albania

Albania isn’t always first on the list for Western tourists, which is what makes visiting the largely untouched Divjakë Karavasta National Park such a special experience. Including boat tours and sunrise hikes, as well as beer tasting and a stonemasonary workshop, MEET’s multi-day tour here strikes a balance between adventure and relaxation.

Asterousia Mountains Biosphere Reserve, Greece

This is the stunning Asterousia Mountains Biosphere Reserve in Crete, Greece with its rocky cliffs, sandy beaches, and fascinating wildlife. From olive oil production to hiking the sacred summit of Kofinas, MEET’s multi-day experience includes a memorable hike through the Agiofarago Gorge and the chance of a refreshing swim at Agiofarago beach.

Ventotene and Santo Stefano Nature Reserve, Italy

The Pontine Islands in Italy are also known as the ‘Pearls of the Mediterranean’. MEET has worked with Ventotene and Santo Stefano Nature Reserve to carefully curate an itinerary that shows them at their best. You can expect delicious vegetarian dinners, guided tours of local historical sites and marine reserves, and charming cobbled Italian streets.

MOUNTAINS HIGHS IN CRETE

©MEET Network (Author: Green Traveller)

Bouches de Bonifacio, Corsica

From Bonifacio, the oldest city on Corsica, you’ll head out to the Natural Reserve where you meet local producers who will show you their land, their craft and will introduce you to local production and tradition, including a Corsican wine Tasting, permaculture garden with seasonal fruits and vegetables and edible flowers. You’ll also take a trip out by boat to go snorkelling in the clear waters of the Lavezzu Island.

Protected Area of North Karpathos and Saria Island, Greece

If you’re looking for a taste of local life in Greece, you’ll do no better than a visit to the North Karpathos and Saria Island Protected Area. The multi-day ecotourism experience here includes snorkelling in crystal-clear waters, guided walks around historic towns, visits to local archaeological museums and a cooking demonstration followed by live Karpathian music and dance lessons.

La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park, Spain

La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park in Catalonia has become a role model for sustainable tourism across the Mediterranean region. The multi-day MEET experience here includes a stay in a traditional country house and plenty of fresh local food. The highlight has to be walking across dormant volcanoes, while learning about geology from a local guide.

Cabo de Gata-Níjar Natural Park, Andalusia, Spain

Expect a proper escape into the wilderness on a four- or five-day tour through Andalusia’s Cabo de Gata-Níjar Natural Park. The ecotourism experience here aims to emphasise the park’s lesser-known parts and includes a hike with a local shepherd and their endangered Celtiberian goats, stargazing, and a visit to a traditional salt flat.

For more information: meetnetwork.org

EXPERIENCE ECOTOURISM AS PART OF A GROUP

WALKING ACROSS A DORMANT VOLCANO

©MEET Network (Author: Chris Willan/Green Traveller)

©MEET Network (Author: Chris Willan/Green Traveller)

HOW TO TRAVEL overland TO LUCERNE, SWITZERLAND

Here is Green Traveller’s guide to getting to Lucerne without setting foot on a plane – instead travelling overland by train from London St Pancras via Paris and Basel

SUMMARY

Eurostar to Paris (short transfer from Gare de Nord to Gare de l’Est) to catch the train to Basel then ferry to Lucerne

Journey Time: about 8 hours

Approximate cost (one way)

Eurostar to Paris from £52

Train from Paris to Basel from £26

Train from Basel to Lucerne from £16

HOW CAN I BOOK THIS?

If you want someone to book the whole journey for you, get in touch with Byway. travel. If you’re happy to book it yourself, visit Eurostar.com or either of the two main panEuropean ticketing agencies – thetrainline. com and RailEurope.com. Both charge a small booking fee but allow you to buy tickets for multiple train operators in multiple European countries. They also offer a free email alert service to let you know as soon as bookings open for your chosen route so you can snap up the cheapest tickets when they become available. For travel in Switzerland (e.g. the leg from Basel to Lucerne, consider buying a Swiss Travel Pass, which gives you unlimited train, bus and boat travel throughout the country for your entire stay (in both urban and rural areas). It includes free admission to more than 500 museums. To buy a Swiss Travel Pass, see rail. myswitzerland.com

TRAIN FROM LONDON TO PARIS

Our journey starts with the Eurostar, the UK’s international high-speed rail service that runs from the magnificently renovated London St Pancras International Railway Station. On board, there’s no weight limit for your luggage, but you should be able to carry and lift your bags safely. To get to Lucerne at a decent hour, take an earlyish Eurostar, e.g. the 8.01am departure, arriving in Paris just after 11am.

In Paris, you change stations from Gare du Nord to Gare de L’Est to take the train east to Basel. It’s just a five-minute walk between the stations – see our guide on How to transfer between train stations across Paris

If you want to break the journey and stay overnight to see a bit more of Paris while you’re travelling through, there are lots of lovely places to stay near both Gare du Nord and Gare de l’Est.

ONWARD TO BASEL

Arriving in Paris just after 11am, you’ll have time to catch the train to Basel at just gone noon, in order to make the mid afternoon train to Lucerne. At Gare de l’Est, board a highspeed TGV-Lyria train to Basel SBB. The best thing about overland train travel is that you have the time and space to walk around the train, visit the buffet carriage, play cards, read the newspaper or a book, catch up on emails and text, watch a film, enjoy a meal, or just gaze out of the window and enjoy the views out of the large windows as the train whizzes across the picturesque French and Swiss countryside. 1 2

FROM BASEL TO LUCERNE

3 4

There are multiple trains throughout the day (over 50 a day) connecting the two Swiss cities. It’s a journey of about an hour (though some trains take an hour and a half, so do check); don’t miss the views of Lake Lucerne as you enter the city.

ARRIVING IN LUCERNE

Lucerne is a spectacular city adjacent to the beautiful Lake Lucerne and close to the wonderful mountain vistas of the Swiss Alps. The railway station is conveniently close to the iconic Kapellbrucke wooden bridge in the picturesque old town. Lucerne is a major hub for the Swiss rail network and there are connections here to some of the country’s most scenic areas of central Switzerland – the mountains here are famous for record-breaking feats of engineering that provide wonderful visitor experiences, including the world’s steepest cogwheel railway (Mount Pilatus), Europe’s first mountain railway (Mount Rigi), the world’s first double-deck opentop aerial cableway (Mount Stanserhorn) and the world’s steepest funicular railway (Stoos). For more information about Lucerne, see luzern. com. For onward trains throughout Switzerland, see: sbb.ch/en

BASEL LUCERNE

Beat Brechbühl/Lucerne Tourism

LONDON

PARIS

Anina Fässler/Lucerne Tourism

Food for THOUGHT

THE ASSEMBLIES

Richard Hammond on the organisations and accreditations that are helping us to make ethical choices when buying food and drink in the UK and further afield

Feasting on local, seasonal food washed down with the resident tipple conveys a sense of place better than any travel brochure. It’s also one of the most effective ways to keep your carbon emissions down. There can be a surprising number of hidden emissions embedded within the provenance of food and drink, especially when it is shipped, or worse, flown in, from overseas – over 25 per cent of all greenhouse gases are based on the food industry. Whether it’s freshly baked bread for breakfast, salad from the kitchen

garden for lunch, or the catch of the day for dinner – choosing local isn’t just good for the planet, it’s also enjoyable and a great way to put money into the local community.

However, be aware that the term ‘local’ can be used disingenuously: I’ve seen it used to describe a radius of hundreds of miles, stretching the concept to render it virtually meaningless. It’s best instead if the description of food includes the name and location of the business. Prawn on the Lawn, a sustainable seafood restaurant in Padstow, Cornwall (prawnonthelawn.com),

goes one step further and names the people behind their products, for example: “Ross supplies us with veg, salad and herbs that he grows on his family’s farm less than a mile from Padstow,” and, “Johnny’s a fifthgeneration Padstow fisherman supplying the freshest crab and lobster from his day boat PW132. Look out for him popping into the restaurant in his oilskins.”

It’s just as important to avoid food that comes from intensive farming, which has had a devastating environmental cost

over the past 70 years. While yields have skyrocketed, fossil-fuel derived fertilisers and pesticides have polluted our air and waterways, wiping out many insects and wild plants, while other intensive farming practices have destroyed wildflower meadows, ponds and hedges up and down the land. Numbers of bees, butterflies and birds across the UK countryside have plummeted: in particular, hedgehogs, tree sparrows and turtle doves have all declined by over 90 per cent. Poor soil

It’s just as important to avoid food that comes from intensive farming, which has had a devastating environmental cost over the past 70 years

management has led to increasingly severe flooding and precious soil is being washed away at an alarming rate.

We should also avoid seafood from intensive fishing. According to the Marine Conservation Society (MCS), 90 per cent of world fish stocks are currently fully- or over-exploited, so it’s vital to choose seafood from sustainable sources – whether that is fish that is farmed sustainably or caught in the wild sustainably. The MCS has produced a Good Fish Guide to help you choose sustainable fish by understanding three key things: where it was sourced; whether it was farmed or wild-caught; and how this was done, such as whether it was hand-gathered, dredged, bottom trawled, mechanically harvested, caught by hook and line, or by a net. It also includes a handy guide to what is in season – the most unsustainable fish is red-rated.

SUSTAINABLE WINE

The UK now has a sophisticated wine scene with hundreds of vineyards producing all manner of wines, from award-winning sparkling whites to velvety reds. Keep an eye out for the Sustainable Wines of Great Britain label awarded to those producers that promote biodiversity on their vineyards, manage them sustainably with minimum pesticides and fertilisers, and reduce water- and non-renewable energy consumption. winegb.co.uk

Natural wine is made from organically farmed grapes that have been grown using permaculture practices; crucially, it is made without adding or removing anything during the wine-making process, both in the vineyard and in the winery. rawwine.com

LOCAL FOOD TOURS

Connecting with a local guide to show you around is a great way to get to know the destination’s food scene, especially in cities where the breadth of choice can be bewildering. They can take you to the lesser known places that serve signature dishes based on age-old recipes that the residents swear by.

There are several websites that can point you to food tours, such as spottedbylocals. com, toursbylocals.com, Airbnb (select the ‘Food and drink’ filter in its ‘Experiences’ section), and culinarybackstreets.com, which specialises in culinary food tours in several European cities, such as Lisbon, Porto, Naples, Barcelona and Marseille.

One of my favourite foodie tours was with Alternative Athens, a half-day tour to the best street food stalls and the shops of heartfelt producers in the Greek capital, where I was given a wide range of fabulous tastings of the city’s vibrant food scene including an oreganoperfumed pork souvlaki and a nut-packed baklava oozing with honey. alternativeathens.com

GOOD FISH GUIDE

SANDRIDGE BARTON

© Billy Barracough

Eat well

These organisations also help point the way to more sustainable food and drink

Food Made Good is an initiative of the Sustainable Restaurant Association, which assesses restaurants on how sustainable they are, based on how they rate regarding three pillars:

Sourcing using local and seasonal produce to support British business, reduce haulage costs and the environmental impact of transport; increasing the proportion of vegled dishes to combat environmental damage and purchasing high welfare meat and dairy products; supporting global farmers by sourcing fairly traded produce to ensure farmers in the developing world have access to a trade system based on justice and fairness.

Society providing equal opportunities, training and policies to keep employees happy and productive; engaging with the local community; offering balanced menu options, reasonable portions and healthy cooking options to cater for customers’ needs.

Farm Wilder selects and labels produce from farms where wildlife still thrives – including birds such as cuckoos or rare butterflies

Environment improving energy efficiency and managing water usage; reducing food wastage and eliminating waste that goes to landfill.

It awards three stars to the best, such as: Lussmans in St Albans, Harpenden and Hitchin, Hertfordshire; Where The Light Gets In (WTLGI) in Stockport; and BuJo Burger Joint in Ireland. The food served on

Eurostar is also three-star rated. One of my favourite three-star restaurants overseas is at Hôtel les Orangeries in Lussac-lesChâteaux, just south of Poitiers, France, which designs dishes using edible flowers, wild herbs and oils for flavourings supplied from a local garden. thesra.org

Pasture for Life is a certification scheme for meat and dairy that comes from animals raised only on grass and pasture. pastureforlife.org

Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) has a blue fish label for those products that come from well managed, sustainable fisheries. Over 150 fish and chip shops in the UK have this label, including Rockfish in Brixham, Devon, and Cod’s Scallop in Nottingham, so too do several chippies that operate out of mobile vans, such as The Whitby Fish and Chips Company and Kingfisher On The Go in Plymouth. msc.org

Farm Wilder selects and labels produce from farms where wildlife still thrives – including birds such as cuckoos that have vanished from much of Britain, or rare butterflies like the marsh fritillary. It works with charities including Butterfly Conservation, The Wildlife Trusts, RSPB and the Farming and Wildlife Advisory Group to help these farmers nurture endangered species, restore biodiversity and farm more sustainably. farmwilder.org

Soil Association is a British charity that campaigns on a range of issues related to the way we eat, farm and care for the natural world. soilassociation.org

Rubies in the Rubble produce an awardwinning range of ketchups, mayos and relishes, sold nationwide and made from ingredients that would otherwise have been wasted because they’re the wrong shape, size or colour, from over-ripe bananas to curly cucumbers. rubiesintherubble.com

MARAY

MACKEREL

© Mikaela ToczekMarine Conservation Society

Last November, Wildlife SOS celebrated the fifth anniversary of the inauguration of its Elephant Hospital in the state of Uttar Pradesh in India. A pioneering facility in the realm of elephant welfare, five years on the hospital stands strong on its unwavering commitment made towards healing elephants found in distress. With a skilled team of professionals and advanced apparatus, the Wildlife SOS Elephant Hospital has redefined the standards of elephant care globally.

Holly was the first elephant to receive medical care at the Elephant Hospital. A blind and injured begging elephant with septic wounds all over her body, when the team found her she was in great discomfort and suffering with

Success STORY

Wildlife SOS celebrates its Elephant Hospital’s fifth anniversary

osteoarthritis, as well as walking on thinning footpads. The Wildlife SOS veterinarians used laser therapy to soothe her pain, combined with hydrotherapy in the hospital’s hydraulic pool, to accelerate her healing.

Since Holly, nearly 20 elephants have been rescued and treated with the Elephant Hospital’s state-of-the-art amenities. The facility sits in 50 acres and has a digital weighing scale for accurate health assessments, diagnostic equipment such as thermal imaging and ultrasonic massagers, and an in-house pathology lab so the team can detect diseases at an early stage.

The hospital is designed to impart specialised care to geriatric elephants, as the

majority of its patients have spent a lifetime walking on concrete and tarmac roads as begging elephants, temple elephants or as riders in the tourism industry.

The staff don’t just focus on the physical healing however, they also acknowledge the emotional intelligence of elephants and provide structural and food-based enrichments, pool time, dust and mud baths, and daily walks to exercise these beautiful creatures’ bodies and refresh their minds.

Five years on, Wildlife SOS has created a path for the well-being of distressed elephants but, says the charity, there is still a long way to go to promote sensitive care to these majestic animals.

HYDROTHERAPY POOL FOR ELEPHANTS

THE ELEPHANT AMBULANCE STATIONED OUTSIDE THE HOSPITAL

5 CAMPSITES REACHABLE BY PUBLIC TRANSPORT

Think camping and we naturally think of a remote, rural location that’s tricky to reach without a car. But it’s not always the case – these campsites and glampsites can be reached by train or bus followed by a short walk for the final leg of the journey; they’re either less than a mile (1.6km) from a railway station or bus stop, or, if a little further, the owners provide a transfer. Ready-pitched glampsites are particularly convenient as you don’t have to lug your tent and equipment with you on public transport, and some sites even offer discounts if you arrive car-free.

TOM’S ECOLODGE, ISLE OF WIGHT

Take the ferry from Lymington to Yarmouth, then catch the Southern Vectis 27 bus to the farm that's home to safari tents, wood cabins, eco pods, and mudulogs (logbuilt pods for groups of up to six), as well as a farm shop, restaurant and a slip-nslide aqua park. tapnellfarm.com

GUILDEN GATE SMALLHOLDING, HERTFORDSHIRE

Less than an hour on the train from London (and 15 minutes from Cambridge), there are just two sites in this glorious smallholding: choose between the yurt and renovated camper van in the native 2-acre (0.8ha) Coppice Woodland or the hobbit hole in the Secret Garden. The owners run their own seasonal veggie box scheme, with asparagus and rhubarb in May, sprouts and leeks in December, along with fruit, herbs, mushrooms, honey and eggs. Take the train to Royston then the 17 bus to Park View, from where it’s a five-minute walk to the Guilden Gate Smallholding. guildengate.co.uk

TY DU FARM, LLANELLI

A car-free campsite on a small wildlife-friendly farm with just five pitches and a large 7m imperial bell tent (sleeps up to eight), the owners encourage children to explore the woodlands and collect firewood. Walks and cycle rides on smooth tracks lead to Furnace Pond, Swiss Valley Reservoir and local beaches. The L2 or 128 bus travels from Llanelli to Felinfoel in just 12 minutes, from where it’s a 20-minute walk to the campsite. @glampingtydufarm 4

Twenty camping pitches and two safari tents sit among wildflower meadows on a 200-hectare farm outside the village of Trefor on the northern coast of the Llŷn AONB. There’s a treehouse and rope swings for the kids, while the big draw for grown-ups is the seasonal kitchen-garden restaurant for breakfast, lunch and dinner. There’s a private shingle beach and you can hire paddleboards and kayaks at the nearby sandy beaches of Porth Iago or Aberdaron. Take bus 30 from Caernarfon or Pwllheli to Ganolfan, from where it’s just over a half-mile walk. bertskg.com 2 3 5

LEE VALLEY ALMOST WILD CAMPSITE, BROXBOURNE, HERTFORDSHIRE

A 17-pitch rural site, remarkably less than five miles from the M25, is among the green spaces of the 10,000 acre (4,000 Ha) Lee Valley Park on the border of Essex and Hertfordshire. Choose between 12 riverside or five woodland pitches with basic amenities, including a compost toilet, cold water tap and solar-powered lights. Take the train to Broxbourne railway station from where it’s a 10-minute walk to the campsite, or alternatively it’s a 15-mile (24km) cycle along the River Lee Navigation towpath (or canoe along the river) from Stratford. visitleevalley.org.uk/lee-valley-almost-wild-campsite

BERT'S KITCHEN GARDEN, LLŶN PENINSULA

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