Charitable Traveller - May-June24 - Issue22

story AN UNDERWATER

OUT OF THE ORDINARY

FROM THE EDITOR Rebecca Miles

Sometimes, when I’m planning where to travel to next, I just want a trip that is as far removed from my day to day life as possible. Not just a different country or a different landscape, but a thoroughly out of my ordinary experience, which is exactly what Lauren Jarvis found when she joined SeaTrek for a live-aboard snorkelling tour

Spending your days swimming above the coral reefs, dancing under the stars and eating fresh Southeast Asian food, sounds like the ultimate trip to me

through the Indonesian archipelago. Spending her days swimming above the coral reefs, dancing under the stars and eating fresh Southeast Asian food, it sounds like the ultimate trip to me. Read all about it on p36.

Closer to home in this issue, we’re slipping into the sea in Jersey (p22), and kayaking across lakes in Finland (p50), as well as giving you lots of ideas for twin-centre holidays in seven African countries (p14) and a conservation holiday in the Dubai desert (p28). Plus we’ve got lots of inspiring stories from the people that help to make our charity partners so effective in the work they do. There’s plenty here to help you escape your ordinary!

4 Get the picture

Global good news 13 Green traveller Taking the train in Europe 14 Twin-centre holidays in Africa From coasts to cities and safaris to sunsets

20 Spotlight on... Summer sun in the Algarve

22 Where sea meets soul Jersey shows its spirit

26 Postcard from Tunisia

INSIDE THIS ISSUE

28 Sand dunes to skyscrapers On a conservation mission in the Dubai desert

33 Win Lonely Planet’s Best Beaches

36 Voyage of discovery Snorkelling in Indonesia reveals plenty of surprises

44 4 views of The Atacama Desert in Chile

46 Get to know Orlando

48 Accessible travel in Berlin

50 Sustainable Journeys in Finland’s lake district

55 Day in the life of a Stroke Association coordinator

56 5 charities using sport to make a difference

58 Why I donate running in support of preemie babies

59 Success story Make 2nds Count

60 Social enterprise Q&A

62 In numbers Cats Protection

GET THE PICTURE

Book online at charitable.travel

TROPICAL MODERNISM IN SRI LANKA Sri Lankan architect Geoffrey Bawa left an indelible mark on the island during his lifetime, designing 200 distinct masterpieces, including this, the Heritance Kandalama hotel, designed and built in 1991. Credited with creating the ‘Tropical Modernism’ style of architecture, Bawa’s philosophy was to combine tradition with innovation, history with modernity, and nature and design, and now guests of Heritance Hotels & Resorts can experience his vision for themselves on its Trails of Bawa tour.

TELLING THE UNTOLD STORIES A growing number of tour guides in cities across Europe are laying bare how the continent has been shaped by colonialism and slavery, and are focusing their attentions on telling Black and African history to reshape the stories Europe tells about itself.

Take for example this, the statue of King Carlos III in Madrid’s Puerta del Sol plaza. On the throne from 1759 to 1788, he’s credited with modernising the city’s lighting, sewage systems and rubbish removal. But join a tour with Kwame Ondo, the tour guide who runs AfroIbérica Tours, and you’ll also learn that Carlos was one of the biggest slave owners of his time.

Similar tours that are helping to shift the conversation are happening in Amsterdam with Black Heritage Tours, Berlin with Decolonial Tours and Paris with Walking the Spirit Tours.

JOHN BREWER REEF, TOWNSVILLE

A HUGE MILESTONE FOR AN AEGEAN FISHING COMMUNITY

On the island of Amorgos in the heart of the Aegean sea in Greece, a group of small-scale fishers have been campaigning since 2019 to protect their local waters, having seen their nets come back increasingly empty. And after lots of campaigning, at the 9th Our Ocean Conference, held in Athens in April, the Greek government approved implementing four Fisheries Restricted Areas (FRAs) around Amorgos. With the support of the Cyclades Preservation Fund, the FRAs will be introduced alongside officially designating the no-take zones, a scientific monitoring programme, and efficient patrolling over the next five years, at least.

GLOBAL GOOD NEWS

19-YEAR-OLD LLOYD

MARTIN HAS BECOME THE YOUNGEST PERSON WITH DOWN’S SYNDROME TO FINISH THE LONDON MARATHON. HE RAN THE COURSE WITH HIS MUM AS HIS GUIDE

World health

A WIN IN THE BATTLE AGAINST MALARIA

Innovative mosquito nets that combine two active insecticides have averted 13m cases of malaria and 24,600 deaths, says the latest research from the New Nets Project. Having piloted the new nets in malaria-endemic countries between 2019 and 2022, the studies suggest these nets are an effective way of addressing the growing challenge of insecticide resistance. Results suggest they improve malaria control by 20-50%, when compared to standard nets.

Conservation

RIVER WYE GIVEN CLEAN-UP CASH BOOST

The government has pledged £35m to help clean up the River Wye. After years of campaigning and legal action by conservation groups, who say the pollution from the many poultry farms in the area is ‘killing the river’, the money will go to farmers to encourage them to stop soil getting into the water. The River Wye, on the border of England and Wales, is a Site of Special Scientific Interest and home to protected species, such as otters, kingfishers and Atlantic Salmon, but was last year downgraded to ‘unfavourable – declining’ by Natural England.

RIVER WYE

Rob Wicks at Unsplash

Low-carbon DATA IS KING

Sustainable Journeys, the new low-carbon tour operator powered by Charitable Travel, has partnered with Path Net Zero to provide holidaymakers with clear data on their carbon emissions. Path

Net Zero provides an intuitive tech solution to measure travel, stay, activity and dining carbon emissions in one streamlined platform, and this data is now available for each Sustainable Journeys itinerary.

Via Path Net Zero’s data-certified carbon emissions calculator, Sustainable Journeys can accurately calculate the carbon footprint of travel arrangements then, armed with this knowledge, Sustainable Journeys can not only build the best environmental itineraries, it can also help its customers understand the carbonemissions impact of their travel. For example, a 15-day tour through the Finnish lake district generates 262kg of carbon per person, plus either an additional 273kg for a one-way economy flight or 30kg for rail and ferry travel (including accommodation) from the UK.

Humanitarian aid

NEW HOUSES FOR UKRAINIAN CHILDREN

SOS Children’s Villages Denmark has gathered a coalition of partners to build low-carbon houses for orphaned children in Ukraine. The project, called Children’s Living Places, aims to reform the childcare system in Ukraine and combines low-carbon building design with social sustainability principles. Clusters of buildings will be constructed in three locations across Ukraine, featuring homes for foster families, shared recreational and social spaces for both inhabitants and local communities, and social centres to provide a range of mental health and social support.

Society The latest musician to join Spotify? Nature. Thanks to the Sounds Right project, musicians who use natural sounds in their recordings can choose to list nature as a featured artist, and a share of their profits will be distributed to environmental causes.

Coral reefs

SOUNDS LURE LARVAE

Scientists have found that playing recordings of fish sounds can lure coral larvae to settle on degraded reefs, enabling the ecosystems to recover. This potentially gamechanging discovery for reef restoration comes as scientists warn that a fourth mass coral bleaching event is under way. The first use of this technique to repair reefs in the Maldives is documented on the BBC series Our Changing Planet.

SOS CHILDREN’S VILLAGES

Freepik

New power

ELECTRICITY FROM CO2

Australian researchers at the University of Queensland had an eureka moment when they accidentally turned the most common greenhouse gas into electricity. Dr Zhuyuan Wang, at the Dow Centre for Sustainable Engineering Innovation, had been working on nanogenerators that run on a process called ion transport for three years when one day, he noticed they were consuming CO2 in the laboratory air to make electricity. To test the generators were consuming CO2, the team sealed one in a box and pumped in the gas. “I double checked everything and it was working correctly so I started dreaming about changing the world using this technology,” he said. Some of the generators are just 4cm wide, and others 6cm long. “We could make a slightly bigger device that is portable to generate electricity to power a mobile phone or a laptop computer using CO2 from the atmosphere.”

Overtourism

TOURIST TAX FOR VENICE DAY TRIPPERS

Venice has introduced its long-awaited tourist tax for day trippers in a bid to combat overtourism in the picturesque Italian city. The first time a major city has charged an entry fee for some tourists, the tax came into effect on a trial basis on 25 April. Day visitors are required to pay €5 through an online booking system that sends tourists a QR code to be scanned when they arrive in the city. Visitors who haven’t paid the fee face fines of up to €300. The trial runs on 29 days up to the middle of July, and applies during peak hours from 8.30am to 4pm. Venice’s authorities hope the tax will reduce crowds during key busy periods, but some residents are against the tax, as they don’t think the scheme will be effective.

Accessibility

OPENING UP SPORT

Sense, the national disability charity, has created new versions of snooker, rounders and badminton, after consulting with disabled people on the activities they most wanted to play but were unable to take part in. The charity worked closely with the sports’ three governing bodies to create adapted versions. LET THE GRASS GROW LONG IN YOUR GARDEN AND YOU COULD DOUBLE ITS NUMBER

Henrique Ferreira at Unsplash

HOW TO BE A GREENER TRAVELLER

There’s more to explore by train in Europe than simply the cities directly connected to the UK by Eurostar, says Richard Hammond, and it’s quite possibly quicker than you realise

Thanks to the Eurostar connection with the modern, efficient, high-speed rail networks of Europe, it’s possible to travel comfortably by train to all corners of Europe and beyond, not just Paris, Lille and Brussels.

For very long-distance journeys, flying is of course the quickest way to get from A to B, but train journeys of less than six hours can work out to be a similar duration to a flight, once

There

like Istanbul or Gothenburg.

There has also been a resurgence in overnight sleeper trains, such as the night trains within Italy, the sleeper services from Brussels to Vienna, Munich to Venice and Berlin to Malmö, as well as other overnight services within the Nordic countries and between Croatia, the Czech Republic, Hungary, Poland and Slovakia. One of the most recent new

has been a resurgence in overnight sleeper trains, such as the night trains within Italy

and the sleeper services from Brussels and Berlin

you’ve factored in the transit to outof-town airports, the time taken to go through airport security and the final leg of the journey from the airport to your holiday location.

Cities such as Paris, Amsterdam, Lyon, and Strasbourg can all be reached in less than six hours from London. Many regions can be reached within a day, such as the south of France and northern Spain. You can then stay overnight and continue the journey the following day, for example, taking the train to Marseille or Nice and catching the ferry the next morning to Corsica or Sardinia; or stopping off in several places en route to far-flung cities

services – the European Sleeper service from Brussels to Berlin, now continues all the way to Prague.

Travelling overnight not only brings an added sense of excitement, but it enables you to travel overland to the far reaches of Europe without paying to stay overnight in hotels along the way.

Another great advantage of travelling by rail and coach for a city break is that the stations are often transport hubs, conveniently located in the centre of cities, from where it’s just a short walk, cycle, bus or tram ride to and from your city break hotel or to connect with other journeys. You can also stop off, eat in a great restaurant and leisurely

explore places along the way, whether in the immediate vicinity of the railway station or further afield.

Detours I have made while waiting for onward train connections have included going to the beach in Barcelona, eating tapas in Algeciras, drinking a cappuccino in a quiet little square in Milan, admiring the yachts in Marseille’s harbour, and cycling around Copenhagen. These little mini adventures can really help make the journey part of the holiday.

Welcome to the renaissance of rail!

Next issue: How to be a greener guest

TWIN-CENTRE HOLIDAYS IN AFRICA 5of the best

With so much to see across the African continent, make the most of your time with one of these twin or multi-centre trips and experience its sheer breadth and depth

WORDS BY Rebecca Miles

1GORILLAS AND BEACHES IN RWANDA, TANZANIA AND ZANZIBAR

Start this adventure in Rwanda’s capital Kigali, taking in its vibrant restaurant and nightlife scene, before setting off for one of the lodges in the dense rainforest of Volcanoes National Park and a trek to see some of the park’s majestic mountain gorillas. Tightly regulated with expensive permits that fund conservation efforts and management of the rainforest, gorilla treks are helping numbers grow from less than 250 in the middle of the 20th century to just over a thousand in the wild today.

From Volcanoes, take a light aircraft scenic flight to the Serengeti National Park over the border and beyond Lake Victoria in Tanzania. Here, you can spend your days on big game drives through the eastern Africa plains and your nights under canvas in safari tents. Wrap up the adventure with a few days on the palm-fringed white powder sand beaches of Zanzibar, just 15 miles off the coast of Tanzania. Don’t miss a tour of Stone Town, Zanzibar’s historic trade centre with Swahili and Islamic influences.

Humphrey Muleba

DESERT, SALT PANS AND A CANYON IN NAMIBIA

Arrive in Namibia’s modern capital Windhoek in the country’s central highlands before heading out to the Atlantic coast and the vast Namib Desert with its mighty rolling sand dunes. You’ll find lots of wildlife across the country – including a significant cheetah population – while the salt pan of the Etosha National Park in the north attracts rhinos and giraffes. Don’t miss taking a hike through Fish River Canyon, the largest in Africa. In places, it’s almost 550 metres deep. The full route is 90km and done over several days, but it’s also possible to dip in for half a day or so.

Give children and young people facing serious challenges in their lives the chance for a break that A break that inspires them to go beyond anything that stands between them and their brightest future

3

CITY AND SAFARI IN SOUTH AFRICA

There’s so much to see and do in South Africa but whether it’s your first time visiting or your fifth, you can’t go wrong with a twincentre trip to two of the country’s many highlights, Cape Town and the Kruger National Park.

Spend a few days in the waterfront cosmopolitan city, soaking up the views from the top of Table Mountain, seeing the penguins at Boulders Beach and visiting the vineyards of the Western Cape, before changing the pace on a safari in the Kruger National Park, spotting elephants, rhinos, giraffes, zebras and warthogs.

PYRAMIDS AND DIVING IN EGYPT

Long awaited, this summer the world’s largest museum is set to open in the shadow of the pyramids at Giza. The Grand Egyptian Museum will be home to 100,000 artefacts, including 22 mummies and 5,398 items from Tutankhamen’s collection. The museum promises to be a huge draw, and has reportedly cost £1 billion to build, so give yourself plenty of time to soak it all in.

Spend a few days exploring the bustling streets of Cairo too before heading to the Red Sea coast at Sharm El Sheikh to relax on the sun-soaked beaches and taking a dip in the clear waters of the Red Sea.

Tiggywinkles is the busiest hospital in the World, treating over 13,000 sick, injured or orphaned British wild animals each year.

SPOTLIGHT ON... SUMMER SUN IN THE ALGARVE

For a classic summer holiday Portugal’s Algarve region is hard to beat. Running along the country’s southern coast, the climate is reliably warm, the beaches big and the atmosphere welcoming. A string of towns, from historic Faro in the east to the surf capital Sagres on the southwestern tip, provide plenty of diversions, while in the middle you’ll find Villamoura. Since the 1980s it’s become a focal point for holidays to the Algarve, with its smart marina, top class golf courses and long stretches of sandy beaches; the most picturesque is Praia da Falésia, 8km of golden sands backed by distinctive orange cliffs.

But take a step away from the obvious and explore some lesser known sides to the Algarve too. From Faro, take the train to the pretty town of Vila Real de Santo António,

Book

June is the perfect time to visit the Algarve – book a week’s self-catering holiday with Charitable Travel here: offers.charitable.travel/weeklyoffers/7-night-self-cateringholiday-in-the-algarve (book before 18 May)

close to the Spanish border. Spend the afternoon strolling around the pretty streets and squares of this elegant town with 18th-century Pombaline-style buildings. Set on the banks of the Rio Guardiana, Vila Real de Santo António has a laid-back fishing harbour and relaxing riverside walks meandering through several parks. Alternatively, head inland to the hills of Monchique where a new hiking route, Demons Creek Walkway, connects the villages of Alferce and Cerro do Castelo de Alferce. Previously inaccessible, a suspension bridge on the route opens up the Barranco do Demo gorge, with far-reaching views across the peaceful woods and hills. Stop off in the town of Monchique too, it’s a renowned centre of handicrafts and home to a small army of artisans.

SOUL Where sea meets

Escape to Jersey, where the shoreline provides both serenity and solitude and conviviality and connections

WORDS BY Antonia Windsor

It’s early morning and the sun is creating golden threads along the clouds as I brace myself to plunge into the cold water. The granite is cool and grainy beneath my bare feet and the sea laps at the stone below. Across the water I can make out the coast of France; just over 25km from where I’m standing on the edge of St Catherine’s breakwater on Jersey’s east coast. I think about what it might be like to swim across and imagine myself emerging from the sea on

to a French beach and ordering a coffee and a croissant. And then I take the plunge.

There’s nothing more invigorating than an early morning swim. And in Jersey, the southernmost of Britain’s Channel Islands, you could swim on a different beach every morning of your holiday and still not have swum in them all.

I don’t like inching into cold water, which is one of the reasons I have chosen St Catherine’s Bay so I can jump straight in, off the Victorian breakwater. The other reason is that

I can get out and go straight into the sauna to warm up. Yes, that’s right, just a few feet up the beach on St Catherine’s slip is a bijou woodfired sauna on a trailer. I’ve booked the 8am communal session (these sessions are every hour, on the hour, from 8am to 5pm) so I can get to chat with the locals who make this blast of hot and cold therapy a regular part of their health regime, relishing the physical connection with the natural environment before they head off for a day in the office. Although I grew up in Jersey and

have been coming back to the island for holidays every year since I left to go to university at 18, there are always some new tips to be learned from talking to locals, which is how I found out about this sauna in the first place. During my 50-minute sweat session (interspersed with quick runs back to the sea to cool down) I’m told I have to sample a bottle of Stinky Bay IPA, made by two surfy hop-heads who limit their waste by sending their used grain to local dairy farmers to feed the famed Jersey cows; not buy new buckets and spades for my

GET TO KNOW... SUSTAINABLE JERSEY

Jersey is a natural playground that’s open year-round for visitors to admire, not overwhelm. A naturelover’s island that’s deeply connected to its environment, visitors to the island will find a wealth of lowcarbon, planet-friendly initiatives to help you tread lightly.

FOOD & DRINK

Jersey is rightly proud of its local and seasonal produce – look for the Genuine Jersey Mark as a guarantee of local provenance. Faulkner Fisheries sells local seafood, Ganache is a B-Corp making 100% traceable chocolate and SCOOP is the sustainable cooperative that runs a farm shop and production kitchen. Meanwhile, the Channel Island Liquor Company uses zero plastic and donates a percentage of its profits to beach cleaning, and Stinky Bay Brewery ensures nothing goes to waste by upcycling its hops as fertiliser.

THINGS TO DO

Whether you choose to walk, cycle, kayak or go foraging, there are plenty of activities that have a low carbon footprint. And arrive by sustainable travel to Jersey Kayak Adventures and Jersey Walk Adventures and you’ll get exclusive discounts.

WHERE TO STAY

The Seymour Hotel Group, the largest and oldest group in Jersey, has been recognised with a Green Award for its commitment to eco-friendly travel, Jersey’s only five-star hotel, Longueville Manor, has a ‘New Leaf’ sustainability programme that includes its ‘Garbage Guzzler’ refuse solution, and the four-star Atlantic Hotel is one of only 12 in the UK to have Earth Check’s Silver Status.

GETTING THERE

For the slow travel option take the ferry from Poole or Portsmouth, or fly from one of 20 UK and European airports.

All this and more is helping Jersey be carbon neutral by 2030.

kids and instead borrow beach toys from one of the Borrow a Bucket Boxes across the island to limit plastic consumption; and visit the Hedgeveg website for an interactive map of local food producers selling from stalls and farm shops. From the enthusiastic recommendations I can tell how glad these people are to call Jersey home, how important it is to them that we all protect it, and how proud they are about steps the island is taking to become carbon neutral by 2030.

I have just enough time to shower and change before I head back down the slip for my safety briefing for the Jersey Seafari RIB trip I’ve

booked to the tiny cluster of islands between Jersey and France called the Écréhous for some wildlife spotting. Seafari offsets every litre of fuel used towards the Durrell Wildlife Conservation Trust’s ‘Rewild Carbon project’, which protects natural habitats. On the 15-minute journey out, we slow right down as we come to a pod of dolphins, who gracefully circle the boat, before spotting seals basking in the sun.

The sandy islets are deserted apart from a cluster of small fishing cottages and I feel like I’m on my own private island. It’s a wonderful feeling

I feel like I’m on my own private island. It’s a wonderful feeling of solitude and a break away from my busy life in London

of solitude and a break away from my busy life in London. I sit on a rock and watch oystercatchers and terns battle with the gulls for the remains of a piece of bread and then lie on the sand in the sun listening to the gentle lap of the water.

But the joy of visiting Jersey sustainably is you don’t have to choose between being remote and being in a cosmopolitan hub – you can have them both. Once I’m back, I head into the capital St Helier for lunch, keen to be around people again. I walk through the beautiful Victorian market with its wrought ironwork and glazed roof, admiring the stalls heaving with colourful local produce and inhaling the scent of freshly picked freesias. I stop for a bowl of Jersey crab linguine, fresh from the sea, at the Pavilion on La Route de la Libération. This place uses plenty of Jerseygrown produce and works

closely with local charity Caring Cooks to encourage children and young people to grow, cook and eat healthy food, and it’s buzzing with a stylish crowd – it feels a world away from the beach on the Écréhous I was sitting on just a few hours ago. I watch closely as each new person enters in the hope it might be one of my sauna buddies, because Jersey feels like the kind of place you can just bump into people and spark up spontaneous friendships. It’s a feeling that’s good for the soul.

FRESH SEAFOOD

ST. OUEN’S BAY

MARKET, ST HELIER

OYSTER BEDS IN THE ROYAL BAY OF GROUVILLE

POSTCARD FROM SOUSSE, TUNISIA

WORDS BY VICKY SMITH

Like many Tunisian coastal resorts, Sousse is renowned as a packageholiday hotspot – but I’m not here to lounge in a hotel, and I’ve found plenty to explore.

Sousse became a major port after the Islamic conquests of Northwest Africa, and its UNESCOlisted medina dates to the ninth century. Highlights reach from the city walls and kasbah, which now hosts an archaeological museum crammed with Roman mosaics, to religious landmarks such as the Great Mosque, and a maze of souk stalls selling everything from woven baskets to painted ceramics.

Other sights include Museum Dar Essid, a 19th-century aristocratic home, where I begin my visit. The interiors are palatial: Andalusian tiles offset embroidered fabrics in deep jewelled hues, while Rococo-style mirrors reflect heavy chandeliers and antique objects d’art. Later, I climb up to the terrace for a view across the city; the jumble of concrete roofs isn’t the prettiest but I can see the

ribat (Islamic fort) and its distinctive tower, with the twinkling Med beyond.

Surprisingly, my favourite attraction is just outside the medina. Coming to the end of a modest street, I come across a house like no other: an explosion of bright colours and intricate mosaics. This is Dar Am Taïeb, the residence of late artist Taïeb Ben Hadj

Get off the busiest streets for a glimpse of local life in the medina, where children play amid whitewashed houses and cats doze on the cobbles

Ahmed, who – in a passion project spanning several decades – transformed his villa into a living artwork. Repurposing junk and everyday items was a key focus for Ahmed and touring the house with his daughter, I find it full of sculptures made from recycled objects. It’s truly weird and wonderful. I explore much of Tunisia beyond Sousse, too. My top trip? Takrouna, a crumbling hilltop village with domed Berber dwellings and legendary sunsets, which I visit with a guide from offbeat tour company WildyNess. Suffice to say, this Tunisian seaside city packs a very big punch indeed.

DAR AM TAÏEB

DAR AM TAÏEB

EXPLORE GRAZ SUSTAINABLY

Graz, infused with Mediterranean flair, invites travellers to explore and discover its car-free historic city centre, where the charm of yesteryear meets pioneering sustainability. Wander through vibrant markets overflowing with local produce, set against a backdrop that beautifully marries historical elegance with a commitment to an eco-friendly future.

Find out more at Sustainable Journeys: sustainablejourneys.co.uk/places/graz

SAND DUNES sky scrapers TO

Now a dazzling city of high- rise hotels and shopping malls, Dubai reveals the other face of its original desert culture

WORDS BY Elaine Wilson

The burnt-orange sea of sand that is the Arabian desert stretches for miles and miles, and as campsite views go, it’s unforgettable. It’s the same with the glorious desert sunrise, and the early morning mist wafting through the sand dunes like a silk scarf, before it burns off for the day.

I’ve joined Biosphere Expeditions’ Arabian wildlife conservation trip to be a citizen science volunteer at the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve (DDCR), a protected area within the Emirate of Dubai and just over an hour’s drive from Dubai city

This project is committed to re-wilding a huge desert area of over 225 square kilometres. The reserve safeguards this striking landscape with its dramatic dunes, gravel plains and rocky areas, and provides a vital habitat for Dubai’s native species, many of which have become extinct in the wild.

To enter the DDCR you need to book with an approved tour company (such as Biosphere). Our base camp is in a small, tented settlement 40-minutes drive into the reserve where the tents, one per person, are already set up for us. The emphasis is very much on our conservation mission, so there are basic

toilets and a small kitchen and the tents are modest – you need to bring your own sleeping bag, pillow and floor mat.

Camp is set among a grove of ghaf trees that remain green even in the driest of desert conditions. I learn they’re vital to the survival of desert species and have roots up to 30m deep enabling them to reach water tables far beneath the dunes. It’s illegal to fell one and they can live up to 200 years.

While the temperature in the middle of the day typically reaches a pleasant 25ºC when I’m here in January, it’s cold at night so I sleep in my socks and hat, borrow another sleeping bag plus two more floor mats to sleep comfortably. Waking to the sounds of the desert birds at dawn is enchanting and watching the sun rise over the sand dunes never loses its appeal.

BASE CAMP

©Wouter Kingma

GETTING DOWN TO WORK

Hundreds of oryx, sand and Arabian gazelles now call the reserve home, as do Arabian red foxes, sand foxes and hares. Nocturnal animals include several species of rodent, like Cheesman’s gerbil. Dozens of bird species live here and if you’re lucky you might even spot the endangered lappet-faced vulture or the rare Pharaoh eagle owl.    Our group is made up of three Brits, two Germans and an Italian. This kind of trip attracts species enthusiasts

(particularly birders) as well as those who are interested in general conservation. But what is a citizen scientist? I’m gathering data on the animals here to assist a scientific inventory of the reserve, using a GPS tracker, compass, datasheets and the all-important binoculars. With our data, the scientists can show potential developers eyeing up this ‘empty’ space that this desert is in fact home to a wealth of biodiversity.   The whole reserve divides into over 60 quadrats and we must record

numbers and types of wildlife in a designated area. We are briefed about which quadrat our team will cover and set out in our four-wheel drive vehicle (we’re given training on how to drive on sand, and the tyres have been deflated a bit to make it easier). Once there, we observe the landscape for 30 minutes and record the type and number of species we see before moving on to another area.  The magnificent oryx, the national animal of the Emirates, is easy to spot with its majestic scimitar horns,

WITH OUR DATA, WE CAN SHOW

DEVELOPERS

EYEING UP THIS ‘EMPTY’ SPACE THAT IT’S IN FACT

pale face and distinctive dark markings. They like to position themselves on top of the dunes to catch the moisture from the desert wind, and there are now so many in the reserve that extra food is needed to support the growing population – the feeding station is a great place to photograph them from close quarters. We also spot many Arabian gazelles – the perfect Bambi – and sand gazelles, which are a little stockier and paler with less distinctive markings, as well as lizards, shrikes, bee-eaters, doves

and even a couple of wheeling vultures, but the night-time scorpions don’t materialise, which I’m pleased about. My favourite sighting is a beautiful Arabian fox at close quarters in the south of the reserve, cutting an elegant figure with her long slim legs, bushy tail and large ears.

MAKING A DIFFERENCE

“It’s really important that we support the efficient management of the reserve and the animals seem to be thriving,” says Malika Fettak,

the Biosphere expedition leader.

“The citizen science element of the expedition is crucial, because there are just two scientists working in a huge area and there is a lot of wildlife out there. A yearly inventory is impossible for them to do; they need more eyes and ears out in the field to count animals and record data. You don’t have to be a biologist to collect meaningful data that helps with reserve management.”

While you don’t need to be a biologist, you do need to be prepared

to walk a few kilometres a day and scale a substantial sand dune or two to reach your observation points. Anyone can sign up to join an Arabia Citizen Science expedition with Biosphere Expeditions in Dubai, and help to conserve species in this precious reserve. “When you’re travelling it’s very easy to see lots of sights but it’s very rare that you actually get to contribute to the places that you are visiting,” says Chris Zacharia, a journalist from London. “With Biosphere Expeditions you

ORYX

TRICKY DRIVING CONDITIONS

ARABIAN FOX

actually get to be a part of a scientific expedition collecting real data that helps to protect the ecosystem that you’re spending time in.”   The scientists hope to share the data they have collected about the animals with other countries such as Saudi Arabia, who have huge areas that could become wildlife reserves and maybe even share some of their animals with them to start one.

TO THE SKYSCRAPERS

After six nights in the desert, an hour’s drive and I’m in the heart of the other Dubai. High-rise buildings

grow like a forest and Dubai’s rapid expansion is a testament to human ingenuity and ambition. Skyscrapers pierce the sky, luxury hotels redefine opulence and city lights create a dazzling spectacle.   I check into the NH Collection – a new hotel in a prime location on the Palm Jumeirah, the artificial archipelago of islands built into the Persian Gulf.   It’s about ten years since I last visited Dubai city. There is little local culture remaining but the souks are still there, including the ever-popular gold souk, and

you can cross the river on a small boat for few dirhams, which is something that has been possible for centuries. It’s a reminder that this mega-city was once a humble pearl-fishing village.   One of the latest attractions to open is the giant doughnutshaped Museum of the Future, exploring the role of science and technology in society; tickets are sold out months in advance. Dubai is a story still being written at an incredible pace. Here’s to the desert and its wildlife remaining a key chapter in that story.

CITIZEN SCIENCE IN ACTION

THE PALM HOTEL

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Dreams Dominicus La Romana, Dominican Republic

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Alegendary Indonesian freediver known as Jago once said, “When I sleep at sea, I dream only of an underwater world.” Exploring Indonesia’s Molucca Sea on a two-week expedition with SeaTrek Sailing Adventures, the only operator in the country offering live-aboard snorkel cruises, I become entirely entranced by the ocean, too.

Closing my eyes conjures images of the candy-hued coral realms. Venturing ashore, my mind remains gently lulled by the gentle rocking of the ship. My hair is permanently

SeaTrek offers a choice of cruises, so to book your SeaTrek adventure please contact Sustainable Journeys on +44 20 3411 3889.

VOYAGE discovery

The lush volcanic islands of the Indonesian archipelago are a dream destination, teeming with natural wonders above and below the waves…

WORDS BY Lauren Jarvis

wilded by sea and salt, and my fingers often crinkled from snorkelling on spectacular reefs each day, among swirling manta rays, skittish reef sharks, vibrant nudibranchs (sea slugs) and rainbows of tropical fish. Like Jago, I’m wilfully, unapologetically mesmerised by the sea.

SeaTrek’s two traditionally designed wooden pinisi ships, the 12-cabin Ombak Putih and the six-cabin Katharina, sail guests in style to isles which lie far beyond the familiar spas and bars of Bali; remote volcanic specks on a map of the Indonesian Archipelago, once known as the Dutch East Indies. Far from the tourist trail

on Ombak Putih, I spend my days exploring the land and the sea with our snorkel guides; relaxing and writing on deck; dining on fresh, local Southeast Asian cuisine and dancing under the stars to traditional songs, performed by our three Indonesian tour leaders and talented crew.

With more than 17,500 islands, stretching across the Equator between mainland Southeast Asia and Australia, Indonesia is recognised as one of the world’s 17 ‘megadiverse’ countries, harbouring 17 per cent of the world’s wildlife and precious

Agustina

S. Ringo

S. Ringo/ SeaTrek Sailing Adventures

Agustina

natural habitats including, mangroves, peat swamp forests and coral reefs, which support a staggering variety of species.

EVOLUTIONARY INSPIRATION

Perhaps understandably, it’s here that the Victorian naturalist and explorer Alfred Russel Wallace formulated his groundbreaking ideas on evolution through natural selection during a field trip of the region to research and collect samples of flora and fauna. The letter he sent to naturalist Charles Darwin in 1858 from the island of

While Darwin is hailed today as the father of evolution, Wallace’s legacy is often overlooked. SeaTrek’s Indonesian adventures seek to change that

Ternate, detailing the evolutionary epiphany he encountered during a severe attack of malaria on the island of Dodinga, spurred Darwin to publish his own theories on natural selection alongside Wallace’s essay. Separately yet together, the two men had unravelled the great mystery of life on our planet.

While Darwin is hailed today as the father of evolution, Wallace’s legacy is often overlooked. SeaTrek’s Indonesian adventures seek to change that, bringing his discoveries and teachings vividly to life by following in the naturalist’s wake on voyages from Ternate in the Maluku Islands to Bitung in Sulawesi, Sorong in West Papua and around Raja Ampat. Zoologist, evolutionary biologist and Wallace expert, Dr. George Beccaloni, leads several annual sailings (sailings without this level of expertise

Agustina S. Ringo/ SeaTrek Sailing Adventures

YELLOW TAIL BLUE DAMSELS

OMBAK PUTIH

are also available) offering a deep-dive into Wallace’s world of living wonders; his infectious enthusiasm and respect for the naturalist igniting guests’ curiosity and desire to explore.

Island treks lead to encounters with the illusive Wallace’s standardwing bird-of-paradise, the striking Wallace’s golden birdwing butterfly and the critically endangered maleo bird, while combing the white-sand beaches reveals lengthy longhorn beetles, industrious sand bubbler crabs and carnivorous pitcher plants, luring insects into the forests behind.

This October, SeaTrek’s In Search of Wallace and His Living Treasures expedition will seek out more endemic species and celebrate the 200th anniversary of Wallace’s death with Alfred’s great grandson, Bill, joining the cruise and the unveiling of a new memorial on Dodinga.

“The island of Dodinga is one of the most important destinations in the history of science,” says George. “There aren’t many places in the world which are the site of an amazing scientific discovery, but this is one of them –and amazingly, only SeaTrek comes here.”

SUPPORTING LOCAL COMMUNITIES

Dodinga is one of several remote local villages, surrounded by wildlife-rich forests, which are visited by SeaTrek on its Indonesian snorkel tours. The company supports education with book donations and materials about marine

What to pack...

7 ESSENTIALS FOR YOUR SNORKELLING ADVENTURE

Protect yourself and the planet

Crafted from Ocean Balance and ECONYL (regenerated materials made from post-consumer ocean bound plastic and fishing nets), PADI’s rash guards offer UPF50+ protection. From £34 padigear.net

Get a closer view

The Swarovski Optik CL Companion 10 x 30 binoculars are available in green and anthracite, and accessories include a field bag, eyepiece and lens covers, and a cleaning cloth. From £1,190 swarovskioptik.com

Be sun safe

Designed for warmer waters, the stylish Soleil Shorty Wetsuit from Animal offers essential UV50 protection, so you won’t need to wear too much sunscreen while you’re snorkelling. £79 animal.co.uk

Dry off in a jiffy

When you’re in and out of the water all day, this Anna Organic Towelling Poncho from Animal is the perfect quick and easy coverup, and features an adjustable hood to help your hair dry. £45 animal.co.uk

Gear up for a hike

Opt for waterproof Jack Wolfskin Barrier Pants, which zip off into shorts. They’re just what you need for trekking through the rainforest –they protect from the sun and mosquitoes, too. £130 jack-wolfskin.co.uk

Prep for rain

This waterproof Prelight 3 Layer jacket from Jack Wolfskin is perfect for popping in your backpack for those rare rainy days, and has a comfortable hood and a chest pocket. £270 jack-wolfskin.co.uk

Reef-safe suncream

Green People’s natural and organic Scent Free Sun Cream SPF30 delivers high broad-spectrum sun protection with effective UVA & UVB filters, and is ocean-friendly. Facial Sun Cream, 50ml, £27.50; Sun Cream, 100ml, £21 greenpeople.co.uk

Agustina S. Ringo

Anastasia Louhenapessy

Agustina S. Ringo

A CLOWN FISH

ROHANI CREW SELFIES

conservation, distributes water purification systems, and also provides goggles, so that local kids can explore the abundant underwater world on their doorstep.

Someone who knows what riches can be found beneath the waves is Rohani, better known as Jago (meaning ‘The Master’), the freediver who dreams of the sea.

One of the famous Bajau ‘Sea Nomads’ of Indonesia, heralded for their almost superhuman diving and spearfishing skills, I meet Jago in the village of Kabalutan in the Togean Islands; a community built over the ocean, with rickety wooden walkways connecting stilt houses and shops, and goats wandering the streets of its more solid terrestrial interior.

The star of the documentary Jago: A Life Underwater, Rohani is legendary throughout Indonesia for his ability to dive deeper than 120 feet under water on just one breath. Now nearly 90, he greets us at the jetty like the superstar he is, holding his speargun and smiling from behind mirrored sunglasses, which he soon swaps for his trademark dive goggles. The documentary explores the Bajau people’s connection to the sea and culture of subsistence fishing, but like many of our magnificent marine ecosystems around

DINNER ON BOARD OMBAK PUTIH

My fingers are crinkled from snorkelling on spectacular reefs each day, among swirling manta rays, skittish reef sharks, vibrant nudibranchs and rainbows of tropical fish

the world, human impacts including over-fishing and climate change are taking their toll.

While Indonesia’s coral reefs are healthier than most, the local people are painfully aware of what’s changed.

“Once there were plenty of fish and few people. Now there are many people, and not many fish,” says Jago.

“We must travel further and hunt in places we’ve never been before.”

When it’s time for us to go, The Master folds his lean legs into his traditional wooden canoe and paddles for home across the blue, leaving the kids to excitedly jump off the jetty, eager to try their new eyewear.

Someone who knows what riches can be found beneath the waves is Rohani, better known as Jago, the freediver who dreams of the sea

The natural beauty and biodiversity of this spectacular archipelago lure many dreamers to its shores, but it’s only when we have the chance to dive a little deeper beneath the surface that we see the complete picture.

AN EVENING FEAST

Discover Virginia Beach

FOUR VIEWS OF

ATACAMA

This vast Chilean desert region is home to a surprisingly diverse range of terrain, from lakes to volcanoes and more

SPECTACULAR LANDSCAPES The Atacama Desert is the one place on earth that deserves the much-used adjective ‘otherworldly’. Spanning 1,600km in northern Chile between the Pacific coast and the Andes mountains, parts of it haven’t seen rain for over 400 years. Yet despite this, it’s home to vast salt flats, lagoons, and landscapes that start the day red like Mars before turning blue like Uranus.

Casa Reom helps children in Mozambique have a brighter future. Some of the poorest children and their families are enabled through opportunities in education, training and learning to live independent lives.

to five

RARE BLOOMS Every four

years, swathes of the Atacama desert erupt into a bright carpet of vivid flowers in the Desierto Florido national park. These colourful super blooms typically occur between September and November, when over 200 species of flowers spring into life after years of waiting patiently underground.

Sebastián

Ojeda –Imagen de Chile

VOLCANOES The Atacama desert is full of surprises, not least of which are the many volcanoes. This one, Licancabur, rises to 5,916m and has a 1.5km-wide summit crater. Sitting on the border between Chile and Bolivia, it found fame when NASA scientists discovered the climatic conditions around its crater is the closest on Earth to the conditions expected on Mars.

The clearest skies on the planet are found above the Atacama desert, making it a dream destination for both professional and amateur astronomers. Here, the intricacies and delicacy of the Milky Way can be seen with the naked eye – you choose if you can count its estimated 100 billion stars and planets!

STARGAZING

Thiago Sanchez at Unsplash

Sebastián Ojeda –Imagen de Chile

Get to know ORLANDO

WORDS BY James Litston

WHAT’S IT ALL ABOUT?

Orlando – rightly famous as the theme park capital of the world – is not perhaps the first place you’d think of when it comes to sustainable holidays. Yet this Central Florida city is taking enormous steps to tread lighter on the planet. From public transport and LEED-certified lodgings to theme parks’ conservation efforts, these are some of the ways in which this sun-filled destination appeals to responsibly-minded travellers.

PARK LIFE

Leading the charge to a greener tomorrow are Orlando’s biggest players: its theme parks. Walt Disney World Resort’s solar facility (Mickey-shaped, of course) can power two of the four Disney parks at once, considerably cutting emissions, while Universal Orlando Resort has installed energy-saving LED fixtures and recycles 10,000 tons of food waste, cardboard and other materials annually.

ECO EXPERIENCES

Beyond theme park thrills, Orlando has outdoor adventures to set the pulse racing. Head out of town to Blue Springs State Park for swimming, hiking and kayaking in unspoiled nature. Go deeper still on the Great Florida Birding Trail, which has 17 Orlando area locations for brushes with bald eagles, burrowing owls and sandhill cranes. Or hire a bike and pedal part of the 20-mile West Orange Trail, which runs from Winter Garden to Apopka.

KAYAKING IN ORLANDO

Visit Orlando

Landlakesof

For a proper Orlando immersion, discover what only the locals know.

THREE WATERY FAVOURITES

Wekiva Island, to the north of Orlando, has kayaks and canoes to rent, plus live music, food trucks and a fire pit for when winter temperatures dip.

Stay closer to town for scenic boat trips on the chain of lakes around Winter Park

Or explore the headwaters of the Florida Everglades in Shingle Creek, enjoying a sunrise safari in search of wildlife from your canoe.

DITCH THE CAR

Keen to explore Orlando without your own point-source of pollution? In the Lake Nona area, driverless vehicles operate as the Beep shuttle service (with plans to expand the network through Downtown and the tourism corridor), while LYNX provides more conventional buses connecting the city with local communities. SunRail whisks passengers through the Central Florida area; or go further afield on Amtrak or Brightline’s regional rail services.

SUSTAINABLE STAYS

Choose a hotel that takes sustainability seriously through the Florida Green Lodging Certification Program. More than 60 Orlando hotels have received green certification, with nearly 20 of them in the initiative’s top two tiers. By cutting back on plastic, implementing recycling policies and using biodiesel from used cooking oil to power maintenance vehicles, these properties are paving the way to being a greener, lower-impact destination.

If you’re kayaking or boating, look out for alligators sunning themselves on the banks!

TAKE THE LEED

Orlando is one of the growing group of cities embracing the Green Building Council’s LEED certification framework for healthy, highly efficient buildings with environmental benefits. Such a forward-thinking outlook has seen the city reap many sustainability accolades over the past decade. It may be a destination where dreams come true, but Orlando is also increasingly a place with a sustainable future – and the best is yet to come.

THE BUZZ Berlin

Our accessibility ambassador Debbie North, founder of Access the Dales, Cabinet Office ambassador for accessibility to the countryside and wheelchair user, visits the German capital to experience it for herself

Earlier this year I went to Berlin to explore both accessible and sustainable tourism in the city. My journey unveiled a blend of innovative features and inspiring initiatives; here’s what I learnt: Transport and accessibility The city airport is served by train services, which take 45 minutes to reach Berlin’s central station. Travel cards, essential for exploring the city, were easily obtainable at the tourist information centre located within the airport. As a wheelchair user, navigating Berlin’s overground and underground train system proved relatively straightforward, although occasional out-ofservice lifts at certain stations necessitated some flexibility (visit BVG.de, brokenlifts.org or call +49 30256 34567 for info on lift failures and if you need help on your trip).

Accommodation and sustainability efforts My stay at Hotel Rossi, 10 minutes from the central train station, gave me some insight into its inclusive employment practices and emerging sustainability initiatives. Despite the hotel’s lack of a formal sustainability

policy, efforts were underway to promote eco-friendly practices, including locally sourced food options, zero-waste tableware, and environmentally conscious toiletries in guest rooms.

Additionally, the hotel’s involvement in community projects, such as SOS Kinderdorf (a non-profit that supports children without parental care), underscores its commitment to social responsibility and community engagement.

Exploring Berlin’s attractions A stroll along the East Wall Gallery to admire the vibrant graffiti is a must-do experience. Likewise, a leisurely walk or wheel along the river, passing such iconic landmarks as the Reichstag building, the Brandenburg Gate, and Checkpoint Charlie, offers a glimpse into Berlin’s rich history and culture. But beyond these traditional tourist landmarks, I also explored some of Berlin’s newest attractions. A visit to the Futurium, an interactive museum dedicated to exploring the future of humanity, nature and

transformation. And it’s free. Venturing slightly off the tourist map to the south of the city, I found the former Tempelhof airport, accessible by subway and bus. One of the first airports in Berlin, it was transformed into a sprawling public park in 2008. Spanning 386 hectares, kite surfers and inline skaters replace airplanes on its vast runways. The park’s rich history and expansive landscapes make it worth a visit. Berlin nightlife For an authentic Berlin variety show experience, I highly recommend a visit to the Wintergarten theatre, which first

grand piano, plush velvet-covered stools and an elegant champagne bar, it’s an opulent lounge.

Moreover, the Wintergarten theatre has gained numerous awards for its commitment to sustainability. From eco-friendly lighting installations to costumes crafted from recyclable materials and innovative repurposing of old items, the Wintergarten demonstrates a steadfast dedication to environmental stewardship while delivering topclass entertainment.

Spanning 386 hectares, kite surfers and inline skaters replace airplanes on the former Tempelhof airport’s vast runways

technology, provided an enriching experience that transcended mere entertainment. Immersed in its thought-provoking exhibits and engaging displays, I gained some enlightening insights into our world. From interactive installations thoughtfully crafted for wheelchair users to its use of sustainable energy sources (solar and geothermal) powering the museum’s operations, Futurium epitomised inclusive and ecoconscious design principles at their finest.

Futurium positions itself as more than just a museum; it’s a dynamic hub with lots going on for all ages and backgrounds, encouraging all visitors to join its journey of inspiration, enlightenment, and

opened in 1887. Renowned for its lavish settings and captivating performances, it didn’t disappoint. As you enter, a grand marble staircase descends from the foyer to the newly crafted subterranean realms. Adorned with a resplendent white Bechstein

Exploring Berlin on wheels During my two days, I covered an impressive 32km of wheeling; navigating the city in a manual wheelchair was manageable. My trip left me inspired by the city’s commitment to accessibility, sustainability, and cultural enrichment. From accessible transportation networks to innovative cultural institutions and revitalised public spaces, Berlin sets a remarkable example for cities worldwide aspiring to create inclusive and eco-conscious destinations. Book your

FUTURIUM

TEMPELHOF PARK

BERLIN’S UNDERGROUND

EAST GALLERY WALL

ACROSS FINLAND GREEN ADVENTURES

In a country where water, forest, mountains and fire are in the population’s genes, it’s no surprise getting back to nature is as easy as pie, says Luke Waterson

Everybody is connected to nature in Finland because everything is,” says Antti Harkonen, founder of a kayaking and adventure travel outfit, as he shows me where some of Scandinavia’s finest urban kayaking routes kick off from Tampere’s Soutukeskus Venesatama (Rowing Centre). While the view north is towards the tree-flanked skyline of the country’s second city, the panorama west pans out to Pyhäjärvi – one of the two vast snaking lakes bounding Tampere and a scene of island-flecked cobalt waters, conifer-clad shores and emptiness that seems to be Finland’s de facto latesummer vista, whichever way you venture. “Water, forest, mountains, fire… it’s in the genes of us Finns,” continues Harkonen. “We have enshrined in law the jokaisenoikeus, the Everyone’s Right or Freedom to Roam and it’s in our DNA more than anywhere else in the world I know. Everything we are

famous for is to do with nature: swimming in the lake after a sauna, cross-country skiing, hiking, fishing, kayak-camping, and being out overnight in the wild. And most of it is water-based because we have so much water.”

Finland’s geographical statistics make mighty impressive reading, especially if escaping the daily grind of civilisation is your thing. Population density averages out at about 18 people per square kilometre, dwindling to just two souls per square kilometre in Lapland. Terra firma here is 73% forested, giving the nation more tree coverage than anywhere else in Europe. And oh, those lakes: around 188,000, according to most estimates, meaning Finland boasts almost twice as many bodies of water as the continent’s second-most lake-blessed land, Sweden.

“Finland has to be one of Europe’s – maybe the world’s – best kayaking destinations,” Harkonen enthuses. “In Tampere you can quickly walk from the city centre to the lakeshore, start paddling and be alone with the water birds in under 1km. Then

we have Kolovesi National Park, where I often run kayak trips: park access is solely by water, and most people get there by kayak. Another of my favourites is Archipelago National Park in Southwest Finland, with more islands in one area than anywhere else on earth. It’s great because tourists are coming to Finland with kayaking as an agenda, and when we do this activity we’re travelling with no noise, not polluting anything, and no disruption to nature. Recently in Kolovesi, my group and I got so close to one of the world’s rarest seals, the Saimaa ringed seal, surfacing right alongside me.”

East in Nuuksio National Park, at just 30km from Helsinki Airport it’s the easiest protected tract of nature in Finland to access for overseas visitors, further eclectic encounters of the wild kind – in its old-growth forest set around the gangly lake Nuuksion Pitkäjärvi – await.

Here I meet Teemu Tuomarla, CEO and founder of the park’s lodge. Completely wind-powered and aiming to achieve carbon-neutral status

by 2025, the lodging not only provides the sustainably-minded with a conscience-free stay but lets its guests proactively participate in habitat regeneration through a partnership with the park authority and the nearby nature centre through ‘Planet-Positive Conservation Holidays’.

“Tourists engage in invasive species management, where they learn about the delicate balance of ecosystems and reducing biodiversity, and undertake guided removal efforts of alien plants like lupine which, while visually appealing, pose a threat to local flora,” explains Tuomarla. “They can also help with meadow restoration and deepen their understanding of the local environment through our educational workshops. The goal is to foster a deeper connection between people and nature. Our visitors not only enjoy the beauty of Nuuksio National Park but also contribute to its preservation and enhancement.”

Tuomarla hopes that the park’s 2023 trialling of Planet-Positive Conservation Holidays is

FINLAND’S LAKE DISTRICT

Julia Kivela

adopted countrywide, as the spotlight shines on Finland in the race towards achieving the world’s first carbon-neutral society.

Copenhagen leads the pack in terms of cities, but six Finnish cities – Helsinki, Espoo, Tampere, Turku, Lahti and Lappeenranta –are striving for carbon neutrality by 2030, a number eclipsed only by Sweden, and new prime minister Petteri Orpo has reaffirmed Finland’s commitment to becoming the planet’s first carbon-free nation by 2035.

AIMING TO IMPROVE

While even demarcating Finnish Lakeland as a region is a little like designating a jungle zone within the Amazon Basin, this especially aqueous area spanning from Lappeenranta in the south to Kuopio in the north is, as one of Finland’s most talismanic postcard-perfect landscapes, another major focus for sustainable tourism.

In the south of Jyväskylä municipality, I take

the bus out across a tree-lined causeway to Säynätsalo, one of several road-linked islands in Päijänne, the country’s second-largest lake. Säynätsalo Town Hall, designed by famous former Finnish architect Alvar Aalto and one of his many architectural icons in the vicinity, has been repurposed as an innovative private enterprise acting as a showcase for Aalto’s work and a nexus for ecological regional visitor activities. Tavolo Bianco Oy was established to benefit the community and facilitate the rejuvenation of the Lakeland ecosystem.

“I like to talk about transformative travel,” explains founder Harri Taskinen. “It’s sustainable travel that doesn’t just preserve what we have but tries to improve it. Visitors are guided in moving with low emissions, pointed towards ecological services like nature trips and advised how to sort rubbish. We don’t believe in fenced areas for tourists here.”

Taskinen acquired extensive experience in

ANCIENT

ARCTIC SNOWHOTEL

JYVÄSKYLÄ HARBOUR

SUNSET OVER TAMPERE

Julia Kivela

Laura Vanzo

New prime minister Petteri Orpo has reaffirmed Finland’s commitment to becoming the planet’s first carbon-free nation by 2035

transformative tourism, summarised in his words as ‘a need for skilled and competent staff to improve living environment’ through volunteer work in India’s slums. He had long contemplated how to transfer the model to Finland.

“To start with,” says Taskinen, “The building that is the hub of our operations is a great model. We can learn from Aalto’s architecture and incorporate it into a way of life. The harmonious interaction of man and the environment emphasised by Aalto can also be a way of life for modern-day locals and tourists visiting these islands. In 2023, we started offering our volunteering project. Volunteers can participate in running the premises, developing positive travel experiences, guiding visitors, and getting to know the people who form the active community in Säynätsalo. It causes at least a small change.”

The road winds a little further after Säynätsalo: out to Muuratsalo island and the Muuratsalo Experimental House, also designed by Aalto:

indeed, it became his summer residence for many years. Wedged between forest and craggy shore, for Aalto it was also a place to hone and broaden his creativity through the use of new materials and the development of ideas.

To me, it seems what Taskinen is doing with transformative travel around Päijänne today has the perfect backstory in the ethos of Aalto, the area’s most famous resident.

“For me personally, Finland’s commitment to greener travel makes me feel relieved,” reflects Visit Finland’s head of sustainable development Lisa Kokkarinen. “Climate change is a threat to humanity. It feels good to be part of the fight against that.”

Feeling inspired? Experience the magic for yourself by booking one of our Sustainable Journeys

GET TO KNOW

The Travel Insider Podcast Germany

In this episode we’re travelling to Germany, a major player in the heart of Europe that stretches from the Baltic Sea on its northern border to the foothills of the Alps at its southern, with France to its west and Poland to its east. Germany is making great strides in improving the sustainability of

its tourism – turning increasingly turning to green energy, to the extent that its entire Deutsche Bahn railway network is powered by renewable sources.  Joining Bec to talk about all this and much more are Mara van Rees and Harald Henning, from the German National Tourist Office.

WONDERS OF West Sweden

Today we’re travelling to West Sweden, a region that is 1.9 times the size of the UK, and has not just a beautiful long coastline stretching from Gothenburg up to the border with Norway, but also lots of forests, lakes and fishing villages that naturally champion a more sustainable way of life. Here, nature is intrinsically valued and championed across all parts of life, and as a consequence sustainable tourism isn’t an added

extra, it’s simply how things are. Visiting here doesn’t need to be distinguished as eco tourism or responsible tourism, it’s just tourism, done really, really well.  Joining Bec to talk about the many joys of West Sweden are Robert Cullen from the West Sweden Tourist Board, and Ingela and Markus Holgersson, who own and run the Skärgårdsidyllen Kayak and Outdoors Company in the Grebbestad archipelago.

Jonas

Luca

A DAY IN THE LIFE OF...

Jess Dunn is a communication support coordinator in Hampshire for the Stroke Association, a national charity that supports people to rebuild their lives after stroke

Jess’s team supports stroke survivors with communication difficulties to reduce the impact, improve their confidence, and reintegrate back into the community. They don’t make promises to fix or cure, but try to understand the person as a whole, hear their priorities and empower them to be as independent as possible.

A TYPICAL DAY

It’s early on a grey drizzly Monday yet I’m already smiling. I’ve just asked an 80-year-old gentleman called Bob what he did at the weekend. In response, he has carefully drawn a picture of a person fishing. Using some yes and no questions, I establish that on Saturday he returned to his angling group for the first time in six months.

Applause erupts from everyone in the room: five other stroke survivors and two volunteers. We’re all thrilled for him.

Following a stroke, Bob has significant expressive aphasia, a language problem, yet his understanding is intact. Knowing exactly what you want to say but having lost the skills to put thoughts into words is a frustrating combination and can knock your confidence.

I’m running one of our regular communication workshops, for small groups of stroke survivors who want to practice their communication strategies and meet others with similar experiences.

A trained volunteer and I guide them through activities based on a ‘Total Communication’ approach. This values any and every means of meaningful communication, whether it’s single

sounds, mime, facial expression, or something else. Last week, I led a session on drawing. This week, Bob answered my question by confidently reaching for a pen.

It’s moments like this which validate our service.

After lunch, I visit the local acute hospital’s stroke ward. Here, I’m introduced to newly diagnosed stroke survivors. In this busy clinical setting, it feels like a luxury to have unhurried conversations with patients. I’m encouraging about their rehabilitation and tell them about the Stroke Association’s available support when they leave hospital.

Reach out to us

For more information about stroke and support services for survivors and carers, visit charitable.travel/stroke-association

Late afternoon, I contact any newly referred stroke survivors to identify what’s important to them and agree a plan to achieve their goals. If a phone call is challenging, I will offer a video call or home visit for another time.

Goals can be anything related to communication – returning to work, speaking at a wedding, or even ordering a coffee at a garden centre again. A plan might involve check-in phone calls, one-to-one home visits, small group work or real-life practice in the community.

Often, we also speak with families, friends or carers who value the chance to ask questions, voice their concerns or simply offload to someone who understands.

THE HARDEST THING… is knowing that there are stroke survivors who are struggling without our support. Occasionally, we receive a referral for someone who is having a hard time months or even years down the line, and it’s devastating to learn.

THE BEST THING… is when we work collaboratively with the NHS to provide a seamless experience of care for a stroke survivor. When all the pieces in the puzzle come together with the stroke survivor’s needs at its heart, there is a great shared sense of achievement.

FIVE CHARITIES USING THE

STRENGTH OF SPORT TO IMPROVE LIVES

As the Olympic Games and Paralympic Games come to France this summer, we’re turning our attention to those charities that use the power of sport to make a difference to in people’s lives

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STREET SOCCER SCOTLAND

Running free football programmes since 2009, Street Soccer Scotland aims to provide hope and a sense of belonging to players across Scotland who may feel socially isolated. Weekly sessions run in multiple locations across the country, and are free to join – they’re structured to give support both on and off the pitch, and the opportunity to progress through the charity’s player pathway leading to the chance to represent Scotland at international football

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STATE OF MIND SPORT

State of Mind Sport raises awareness of the issues surrounding mental health and wellbeing, and harnesses the power of sport to promote positive mental health among our sportsmen and women, fans and wider communities, with the ultimate aim of preventing suicide. The charity delivers education on the subject to all levels of sport, business, education and community groups, plus signposts individuals to where they can

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in

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YOUTH SPORT TRUST

Giving young people a platform to have their voice heard and a place to feel they belong through the power of sport, Youth Sport Trust runs inclusive and innovative programmes. These support young people to improve their health and wellbeing, develop character and leadership, and promote inclusion and empathy. Working through physical education, the charity brings together communities of educators and equips them with the training, practical tools and resources to achieve more for every child.

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charitable.travel/youth-sport-trust

UK children have a parent with poor mental health

If that sounds like a lot that’s because it is.

Growing up with a parent struggling with their mental health or a mental illness can be a difficult and overwhelming experience. Unsupported they may face stigma, stress and their own mental health struggles later in life as a result.

You can help us to change this.

Our Time Charity is committed to improving the lives of these children but we need your help to make it happen.

Through advocacy, schools programmes, professional training and family workshops we are dedicated to making sure these children know that they are not alone and receive the support they need to thrive.

Find out how you can help us to make a difference.

charitable.travel/our-time

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Find more great causes at charitable.travel

THE MINTRIDGE FOUNDATION Dedicated to enhancing the life skills in young people through sport, the Mintridge Foundation provides a support network for young people by harnessing the power of positive sporting role models. Thanks to its team of ambassadors, including Olympians, Paralympian and other professionals from over 20 sports working with young people in schools, clubs and academies, the charity assists young people of all ages, abilities and physical capabilities to develop confidence and resilience, and nurture the importance of mental and physical wellbeing through sport. charitable.travel/the-mintridge-foundation

5 MAKE A DIFFERENCE WITH SUSSEX CANCER FUND https://charitable travel/sussex-cancer-fund/ Research Equipment Support We work together to help make life better for cancer patients in Sussex – providing equipment and services that make a tangible difference for patients who are often on a difficult and stressful journey. We also selectively fund and enable Sussex based cancer research programs that contribute to the understanding of cancers and improved outcomes for patients.

ACTION 4 YOUTH With the aim of enabling young people to challenge themselves and work with others, Action 4 Youth provides positive, often transformational experiences and activities to inspire children and young people. Regardless of ability, the charity focuses on helping children and young people understand what they can achieve, rather than what they can’t, by learning to challenge themselves and work with others. charitable.travel/action4youth

With first-hand experience of the good work SSNAP does for the parents of sick newborns at the John Radcliffe Hospital in Oxford, running the Oxford half marathon in support of them was a no-brainer for Simon Winchester

WHY I DONATE...

I’d made up my mind that I was going to run the Oxford half marathon to raise funds for SSNAP before we’d even left the neonatal unit. SSNAP stands for Supporting Sick Newborns and their Parents, and operates out of the John Radcliffe Hospital in Oxford where our daughter, Romilly, was born prematurely last July weighing just 1.32kg.

As an IVF baby, she’d been monitored extensively throughout the pregnancy, and we’d had a lot of scans and genetic tests looking for any issues with her development. The doctors were worried that her growth rate was slow and, at 33 weeks, they said the blood flow through the placenta was so low that she’d be safer out than in. We were promptly booked in for a Caesarean section the following week.

After this consultation, we were introduced to a volunteer from SSNAP and got first-hand experience of the great work this charity does, namely providing front-line support to parents and babies in the neonatal unit. As well as funding necessary kit, such as breast pumps, and creating comfortable family rooms with microwaves (so parents can take some respite from the very medicalised ward), they also provide

tours of the ward and surrounding corridors so parents don’t feel quite so disorientated after the birth.

Here to support

SSNAP – Supporting Sick Newborns and their Parents – provides emotional, medical, financial and informational support at the John Radcliffe Hospital, Oxford.

Romilly was born by caesarean section at 34 weeks and one day. My wife Claudine was taken off to recover, while I was plunked in the open ward to start caring for our child in front of eight other families. It may seem a small thing, but the fact that SSNAP had already shown me how to register for facial recognition so I could get past security on the ward’s door, where I could wash my hands, and where the loos were really helped take the edge off what it is to have your newborn baby in one of those units.

Visit SSNAP’s website to learn more: ssnap.org.uk

We were lucky, Romilly was home six weeks after she was born, but some of the families at the John Radcliffe were there for six or seven months. Instead of working from home, these parents were working from laptops in the hospital while supporting their newborn baby, and volunteers from SSNAP would often be the only non-medical human contact these families were having.

I’ve run lots of long distance events

so signing up to run the Oxford half marathon for SSNAP while we were in the neonatal unit gave me something in the future to focus on, and I was so happy when it became reality three months later – with my wife and baby daughter cheering me on and waiting for me on the finish line. My training for the half wasn’t the most diligent but thankfully the course in Oxford is nice and flat, and SSNAP has one of the largest teams of runners on the course. I think there was about 250 of us running for SSNAP on the day, so the support both from the other runners and the crowds lining the route was fantastic. While having a premature baby is never going to be the easiest, SSNAP really helped make our time with Romilly at the John Radcliffe hospital a positive experience. Romilly now weighs a stonking 5.5kg and is doing really well, and SSNAP has become my number one charity to support because the work they do is so targeted. I’ll definitely be doing more to raise money for them in the future.

SUCCESS STORY

Make 2nds Count supports 500 secondary breast cancer patients across the UK

Make 2nds Count has reached a significant milestone with its Patient Trials Advocate (PTA) service and has so far supported 500 secondary breast cancer patients across the UK. The charity, dedicated to raising awareness and funding research for secondary breast cancer, has benefited from a generous grant of £79,434 from Walk the Walk charity, organiser of the well-known MoonWalk London and MoonWalk Scotland fundraising events. These funds will be used to finance the full initiative for the next nine months to a year, demonstrating the

“This funding will specifically contribute towards the charity’s ground-breaking Patient Trials Advocate service. This much-needed service is designed to bring together women with breast cancer who might not otherwise have had access to clinical trials, and for many of whom this is the last resort of treatment.”   Make 2nds Count’s PTA service is the first of its kind in the UK, offering fresh hope to patients by connecting them with clinical trials that have the potential to improve outcomes and extend life.

Since its pilot launch in 2021, the PTA

This much-needed service is designed to bring together women with breast cancer who might not otherwise have access to clinical trials

collective effort to make a meaningful impact in the lives of secondary breast cancer patients.

Nina Barough CBE, founder and chief executive of Walk the Walk said: “By collaborating, charities can make such a huge difference to so many people, and we are incredibly proud to be supporting Make 2nds Count and what they achieve in raising awareness and funding research for secondary breast cancer.

service has provided support to over 500 patients, with a remarkable 100% endorsement from those who have experienced the initiative. Furthermore, 95% of patients expressed their willingness to engage in discussions with their clinicians about the possibility of accessing clinical trials.

One such patient is Margaret Irvine, who was diagnosed eight years ago with secondary (metastatic) breast cancer

after an original diagnosis of primary breast cancer nine years before that.

A trained district nurse, she says, “Access to the service has given me new hope and support, as well as a new way of opening discussions with my treatment team and allowing myself and others as patients to have more control of the journey we are on. This is the main reason I decided to share my experience with others too.”

Vivienne Wilson, a senior research nurse with the PTA service, said, “I’ve been working with Make 2nds Count for over two years now, and I think this service really is one of a kind. I enjoy the opportunity to talk to many secondary breast cancer patients, sharing my knowledge on available trials and guiding them to explore their options.”

Secondary breast cancer, also known as metastatic, advanced, or stage IV breast cancer, claims the lives of 1000 women in the UK each month and is currently affecting 61,000 people, yet it remains a relatively unknown and underrepresented area of research. Make 2nds Count is dedicated to continuing its mission, ensuring that every patient with secondary breast If you are a secondary breast cancer patient who may be interested in clinical trials and the PTA service, visit make2ndscount.co.uk/support/pta

RESEARCH LEAD DR SARAH THOMAS AND VIVIENNE WILSON

PTA NURSE MEL

MARGARET IRVINE

VIVIENNE WILSON

WEAVING SUCCESS

Handmade Stories is a slow fashion social enterprise brand that stands up for communities underserved by the establishment and society. Its founder, Elena Brook-Hart Rodriguez, shares how it helps provide fair incomes and keep traditions alive

WHAT IS HANDMADE STORIES?

Handmade Stories is a female-owned slow fashion brand and social enterprise that supports communities achieve economic independence and keep their traditions alive. We make clothes, jewellery, and accessories for women and men using time-old techniques that are unfortunately being lost, and in many regions have completely disappeared.

WHERE DID THE IDEA FOR HANDMADE STORIES COME FROM?

I went to Peru at the beginning of 2020 to volunteer with women that live in rural communities in the Andes. Soon after, the pandemic hit, the volunteer organisation left, and the women lost the support they were receiving. I felt that wasn’t fair and decided to do something about it. Handmade Stories came to life to provide them with a fair source of income and a flexible way of working that allows them to keep looking after their animals, land and family.

WHAT IS YOUR IMPACT? AND HOW DO YOU HAVE THAT IMPACT?

I now work with three different groups of people: women in rural communities, a family of traditional jewellery-makers, and men in prison. I follow the World Fair Trade Organisation’s principles to ensure the work benefits those who make the products. I also support

them so they can set up their own local businesses so they can be completely independent. But with each group I address different issues.

The women breed animals and work their fields for self consumption, but nowadays need money to buy things, including supporting their kids’ education. If they want to earn an income they have to travel far or migrate to the cities. The work I do with them is to ensure they can continue to look after their fields and animals as well as supplementing that with an income so they don’t have to leave their communities. Furthermore, part of the profits go back to funding development projects in the communities. In the past, these have included financial education, the building of community infrastructure, and this year we’re setting up rural libraries.

The family of traditional jewellerymakers used to sell their jewellery in markets and had to close their workshop during Covid and find jobs elsewhere. After partnering with them, they reopened their workshop and now, three years later, they have their own physical shop.

The men in prison receive training so they learn how to hand weave traditional Andean textiles. I work directly with them and their families to ensure the money goes to them. They set the prices

for the products they produce. I also support them so they can set up their own businesses while they’re in prison so once they’re out they have a trade and their own source of income. This reduces reoffending rates.

WHAT WOULD YOU LIKE TO SEE CHANGE OR IMPROVE IN YOUR AREA?

I’d love to see consumers thinking about the person that made the products before they buy. Sometimes we get carried away by a deal or offer, but if the price is that low, how can someone have been paid fairly to produce it? The reality is that a lot of the brands we know and love use modern slavery to produce their products, paying garment workers as little as $0.04 per item. It’s also worth checking the practices of companies, as

WHAT IS YOUR BIGGEST

CHALLENGE?

As for a lot of independent businesses, my biggest challenge is reaching people. When I sell in person in a physical store, people love the look and feel of the products and buy, but with a limited budget and recent changes to social media platforms, it’s very hard to stand out online unless you’re paying high amounts on advertising spend (and I’d rather be spending that money on paying the artisans and doing development projects than giving it to the big social media platforms). And even if you do stand out and have a big following, it doesn’t always translate into sales.

WHAT’S NEXT FOR HANDMADE STORIES?

a more expensive price doesn’t always mean the item has been produced fairly. Look for Fair Trade badges and accreditations from external agencies to make sure the business has been independently audited.

There’s loads going on at the moment. I’m opening a physical store in London (check out our website or sign up to our newsletter for details). We’re also working on new accessories made in prison, a new clothes collection with more inclusive sizing, an expansion of our upcycled collection (which saves clothes from going to landfill), and new jewellery designs.

CATS PROTECTION

in numbers

The UK’s largest feline welfare charity, Cats Protection helps an average of 157,000 cats and kittens each year through its network of over 210 volunteerrun branches and 34 centres, regularly carrying out research to determine how cats are faring during the cost of living crisis. Cats Protection’s vision is for a society where every cat has their best possible life because they’re protected, cared for, and understood by everyone.

OF HOUSEHOLDS IN THE UK OWN A CAT

FIND OUT MORE AT CHARITABLE.TRAVEL/ CATS-PROTECTION

10% OF OWNED CATS AREN’T REGISTERED WITH A VET

COST IS THE TOP REASON OWNERS DON’T TAKE THEIR CAT TO THE VET (28%, UP FROM 24% IN 2022)

45% OF CAT OWNERS SAY THEIR CAT GIVES THEM SOMETHING TO GET UP FOR IN THE MORNING

THERE ARE AROUND 11 MILLION OWNED CATS IN THE UK

27% UNKNOWN

85% OF CATS ARE NEUTERED “

THE TOP REASON FOR NOT NEUTERING IS THAT THE CAT DOESN’T GO OUTSIDE

THE NUMBER OF PEOPLE CITING COST AS THE REASON FOR NOT NEUTERING THEIR CAT HAS INCREASED TO 15% FROM 10% IN 2022

17% OF CATS ARE TAKEN ON FROM A NEIGHBOUR, FAMILY OR FRIEND

34% OF OWNERS SAY THEY’VE BEEN NEGATIVELY IMPACTED BY THE RISE IN LIVING COSTS

32% OF CATS ARE BOUGHT

24% OF CATS ARE ADOPTED FROM A UK REHOMING CHARITY

28% OF CAT OWNERS SAY THEIR CAT HAS BEEN INJURED

24% OF INJURIES ARE SUSTAINED DURING FIGHTS WITH OTHER CATS

THE NUMBER OF INJURIES CAUSED BY ROAD TRAFFIC ACCIDENTS HAS DROPPED TO 3%, FROM 5% IN 2022

COMPANIONSHIP, REDUCING LONELINESS AND REDUCING STRESS ARE COLLECTIVELY THE TOP REASONS FOR OWNING A CAT

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Plus, when you book with Charitable Travel you can donate 5% of your holiday cost to a charity of your choice… completely free!