Boutique Magazine April 2024

APRIL 2024

BUSINESS SENSE FOR FASHION RETAILERS

ISSUE 161

Summer dreaming

Chic resortwear Father’s Day gifting Inside Real Clothing Spring beauty

Book now your appointment for SS25 marc@doublehagency.com 07539228041

www.doublehagency.com

EDITOR’S LETTER EDITOR Gemma Ward gemma@bpmedialtd.co.uk PRINT AND ONLINE SALES Julie Neill – julie@bpmedialtd.co.uk Tel 01795 515288 Tel 07960797383 DESIGN AND PRODUCTION Jack Witcomb – jack@bpmedialtd.co.uk CREDIT CONTROL Jilly Barker - Jilly@bpmedialtd.co.uk PUBLISHER Julie Neill MANAGING DIRECTOR Julie Neill © 2022 Boutique Professional Media Ltd, Office 2, The Old Stable Block, Crescent Road, Faversham, Kent ME13 7GU. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form – electronic, mechanical or physical – without express prior permission and written consent of the publisher. Contributions are invited and when not accepted will be returned only if accompanied by a fully stamped and addressed envelope.

Manuscripts should be type written. No responsibility can be taken for drawings, photographs or literary contributions during transmission or in the editor’s hands. In the absence of an agreement the copyright of all contributions, literary, photographic or artistic, belongs to Boutique Professional Media. The publisher accepts no responsibility in respect of advertisements appearing in the magazine and the opinions expressed do not necessarily represent the views of the Publisher. The Publisher cannot accept liability for any loss arising from the late appearance or non publication of any advertisement.

ON THE COVER:

Image courtesy of Munthe; E: hlm@munthe.com munthe.com

Taxing fashion

I

n what would be world-first legislation, France’s lower house of parliament has voted unanimously in favour of a bill that would see surcharges added onto fast fashion goods based on their ecological footprint. The aim is to slow down the rampant pace of ultra-fast moving, low-cost garments in the country such as those marketed by Chinese behemoths Shein and Temu.

The policy proposal would need to pass through France’s Senate before becoming law. However, if approved, plans include adding a penalty of €5 (£4.20) per product from next year, rising to €10 by 2030. The proposed bill also includes banning advertising for the cheapest garments and calling for brands to disclose their environmental impact.

Shein is said to drop over 7,000 new styles onto its site every single day. Its goods are predominantly made from non-biodegradable fabrics, which contribute to fashion’s environmental impact. But its business model is extremely popular. Shein’s app is the second most downloaded shopping application in the world after Temu while it counts 32 million followers on Instagram. What’s more, it is currently the largest e-commerceonly fashion brand globally.

No doubt there will be some economic drawbacks if France manages to implement such a policy - and the poorest people will FATHER’S FATHER’S DAYDAY

be hardest hit. However, perhaps the move would help instil a more quality-led investment purchase culture, helping to increase sales of second-hand clothing through sites such as Vinted.

There’s also still a question mark over which brands France’s proposed bill would limit. Its interpretation of ultra-fast fashion hasn’t yet been clearly defined, so it’s uncertain whether it would impact the likes of Zara and H&M. Of course, the independent fashion industry is everything ultrafast fashion is not. So, if the UK ever went down a similar road, it would surely be a positive move for indie retailers. The world is slowly changing for the better and massproduced goods are becoming less appealing. It will be interesting to see how France’s proposed bill plays out and how it sways the future decisions of other world leaders.

Gemma Ward, Editor Follow us on Instagram @boutique.magazine FATHER’S FATHER’S DAYDAY

SKINCARE

Dad's Dad'sarmy army

Spring clean SUPER-CHARGE YOUR SKINCARE OFFER WITH THESE UPLIFTING WASHES, CLEANSERS AND EXFOLIATORS

GETGET READY READY FORFOR FATHER’S FATHER’S DAYDAY WITH WITH THESE THESE COOL COOL ANDAND CONTEMPORARY CONTEMPORARY GIFTGIFT ANDAND GREETING GREETING CARDS CARDS SUPPLIERS SUPPLIERS

CITRUS SCENT

Be transported to sunny days whatever the weather with Skin & Tonic’s neroli-fragranced Fresh Face Exfoliating Water. This super-smoothing tonic features next-generation polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and brightening hibiscus to gently cleanse the skin. Use every morning for a glowing complexion. Tel: 0778 643 7774 E: charlie@beautybulb.co.uk

RAISE THE BAR

Chalk’s multi-tasking Neroli and Sweet Orange Soap Bar can be used on the face, body and hair.

Infused with pink clay, it lightly exfoliates as it cleanses to leave skin feeling fresh and revived. £3; wholesale.chalkuk.com

GINGER GINGER RAY RAY

JEFFJEFF ANDAND THE THE SQUIRREL SQUIRREL

British British brandbrand Ginger Ginger Ray helps Ray helps Yorkshire’s Yorkshire’s Jeff and Jeffthe andSquirrel the Squirrel makemake everyevery occasion occasion memorable memorable creates creates eco-friendly eco-friendly greeting greeting cards,cards, BELLA BELLA FREUD FREUD with its with stylish its stylish partyware partyware and and stationery stationery and gifts. and gifts.

Its colourful Its colourful For the Fordad thewho dad has whoeverything, has everything, designs decorations. decorations.

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For For Father’s Day gift.

Day Standouts gift. Standouts in thein theFather’s tableware tableware worldwide. worldwide.

For Father’s For Father’sFather’s Father’s Day, its Day, line-up its line-up includes includes rangerange include include retro-style retro-style sportssports fun greetings Day 2024, Day 2024, its range its range includes includes a a fun greetings cards cards and stickers and stickers designs as well as as well these as these cotton cotton for conscious printed printed balloon balloon cluster, cluster, wooden wooden designs for conscious dads and dadsgrandads. and grandads. ribbed intarsia intarsia motifmotif Pain Killer Pain Killer The range ‘Best ‘Best Dad Ever’ Dad Ever’ badgebadge and ‘Happy and ‘Happyribbed The range also encompasses also encompasses joyfuljoyful ThereThere are plenty are plenty of other of other notebooks Father’s Father’s Day’ bunting.

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Sell in-store Sell in-storesocks.socks. notebooks mademade from from recycled recycled great great ideas ideas in theincult thebrand’s cult brand’s line- linefor shoppers for shoppers to celebrate to celebrate their their paper,paper, pens, pens, postcards postcards and and up from too, from super-soft super-soft Italian Italian compostable dad atdad home at home or useortouse create to create an an up too, compostable badges. badges.

The brand The brand leather card holders card holders to sloganto slogan- also offers engaging engaging (and affordable) (and affordable) Father’s Father’sleather also offers brightbright and sustainable and sustainable emblazoned bone bone ChinaChina espresso espressopackaging Day window Day window display. display.

Registered Registered emblazoned packaging for businesses, for businesses, such such Its hand-poured Its hand-poured candles candles and and retailers retailers can order can order products products via via cups.cups. as personalised as personalised logo stickers logo stickers and and cult 1970 knitted knitted sweaters sweaters will also will also the brand’s the brand’s easy-to-use easy-to-use onlineonline B2B B2Bcult 1970 biodegradable biodegradable cello bags. cello bags. appeal appeal to dapper to dapper dads dads of all of ages. all ages. CONTACT: portalportal with speedy with speedy delivery delivery offered offered CONTACT: CONTACT: CONTACT: E: info@bellafreud.com E: info@bellafreud.com E: hello@jeffandthesquirrel.co.uk all year all round. year round.

E: hello@jeffandthesquirrel.co.uk bellafreud.com bellafreud.com CONTACT: CONTACT: gingerray.co.uk/trade gingerray.co.uk/trade jeffandthesquirrel.co.uk jeffandthesquirrel.co.uk | APRIL| APRIL 22 | boutique.

22 | boutique.

2024 2024

INK & INK DROP & DROP

Specialising Specialising in unique in unique art prints, art prints, Ink &Ink Drop & Drop produces produces all itsall designs its designs SAINT SAINT JAMES JAMES and photographs and photographs in-house. in-house.

Retailers Retailers FromFrom classicclassic Breton Breton tops to tops to can choose can choose from from thousands thousands of of authentic authentic sailorsailor sweaters, sweaters, Saint Saint printsprints in a plethora in a plethora of colours of colours and and GIFTGIFT LABEL LABEL James’James’ iconiciconic wardrobe wardrobe staples staples themes themes – from – from animal animal portraits portraits and andTHE THE Creating unique unique homehome and self-care and self-care makemake the perfect the perfect gift for giftmodern, for modern, botanical botanical landscapes landscapes to creations to creations Creating gifts both for men both and menwomen, and women, The Thestylishstylish dads. dads.

The heritage The heritage French French by famous by famous artists. artists.

Its team Its team adopts adopts gifts for Gift Label’s vegan-friendly vegan-friendly product productlifestyle lifestyle brandbrand has been has been producing producing the latest the latest equipment equipment to create to create bold boldGift Label’s makesmakes present present buying buying easy. easy. maritime-inspired maritime-inspired fashion fashion for over for over artwork, artwork, printing printing each design each design onto ontorangerange Each Each features features an uplifting an uplifting message message130 years, 130 years, reworking reworking and updating and updating high quality high quality 250gsm 250gsm matt fine matt fine label its such label as such ‘Lots as ‘Lots of Love’ of Love’ its timeless its timeless designs designs each season each season art paper. art paper.

There’s There’s a widea range wide range of of on itson and are ‘YouWonderful.’ are Wonderful.’

Buyers Buyers with modern with modern colourways colourways and fresh and fresh options options that are thatperfect are perfect for Father’s for Father’sand ‘You can expect beautifully beautifully scented scented details. details.

With With a focus a focus on creating on creating Day edits Day edits including including traveltravel tourism tourism can expect Netherlands-made formulations, formulations, true investment true investment piecespieces with with posters, posters, geometric geometric patterns patterns and and Netherlands-made high-quality high-quality sustainable sustainable ingredients ingredients enduring enduring appeal, appeal, expect expect the highest the highest antique-inspired antique-inspired maps.maps.

We love Wethis love this and recycled packaging. packaging.

Perfect Perfect for forquality quality natural natural fabrics fabrics and expert and expert reproduced reproduced Mushrooms Mushrooms Diagram Diagram and recycled Father’s Day, its Day, new itsDaddy new Daddy Cool Cool craftsmanship craftsmanship in every in every garment. garment. illustrated illustrated by influential by influential biologist biologist Father’s shower shower foam foam with argan with argan oil and oil and CONTACT: CONTACT: Tel: 07539 Tel: 07539 228 041 228 041 and naturalist and naturalist ErnstErnst Haeckel.

Haeckel. vitamin E smells E smells like woody like woody chypre. chypre.

E: marc@doublehagency.com E: marc@doublehagency.com CONTACT: CONTACT: E: shop@inkanddrop.com E: shop@inkanddrop.com vitamin CONTACT: CONTACT: E: b2b.thegiftlabel.com E: b2b.thegiftlabel.com doublehagency.com doublehagency.com faire.com faire.com | boutique. | boutique. | 23 | 23 APRILAPRIL 2024 2024

FRESH START

Bursting with hardworking skincare actives, Dr David Jack’s Supernova cleansing gel eradicates impurities while preserving the skin’s delicate moisture balance.

Work its nonfoaming prebioticrich formula into the face and neck to dissolve make-up and reveal ultra-clean, radiant skin. £POA; E: skincare@ drdavidjack.com

APRIL SHOWERS

Made with a fresh spring blend of rose petals, lime and sandalwood, Arran’s After the Rain Hand Wash brings a touch of luxe to the bathroom. Combine with its Hand Lotion for extra indulgence. £POA; arran.com/pages/arran-wholesale

RADIANT RESULTS

Providing a great first step to any spring skincare ritual, Beautypro’s Detoxifying Bubbling Cleansing Sheet Mask micro-massages the skin to provide a deep pore cleansing treatment. Apply for 10 minutes to instantly freshen and rejuvenate. £POA; faire.com.direct/beautypro

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01 – 03.07.2024 PARIS, FRANCE PORTE DE VERSAILLES HALL 7

Weaving the Future

Sourcing | Business | Solutions

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APRIL 2024

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Fashion Fix

ESSENTIAL NEWS FOR FASHION INDIES

CAROL CAPENER & JAN SHUTT

T

Venue and date confirmed for Boutique Star Awards 2024 winners’ party

he Boutique Star Awards winners’ party will return to the May Fair Hotel’s glitzy Crystal Room this year for a celebration of the industry’s best fashion indies and brands. Taking place on Thursday 7 November 2024, the evening event will include a drinks reception, three-course sitdown dinner with wine as well as an awards ceremony hosted by television presenter Hayley Sparkes.

This year’s competition includes 21 different categories to recognise the industry’s best fashion and lifestyle independents and their suppliers.

Retailers can enter a range of awards including Fashion Independent of the Year, New Independent of the Year and Sustainability Advocate of the Year.

New categories have also been added

for 2024 including Store Design of the Year, Shop Window of the Year and Employer of the Year.

Meanwhile, supplier categories include British Brand of the Year, Sustainable Brand of the Year and Female Founded Brand of the Year.

Three new supplier categories Jewellery Brand of the Year, Footwear Brand of the Year and EPoS Provider of the Year – have also been added for 2024.

Finally, three nomination-only awards – Lifetime Achievement, Newcomer and Outstanding Business – are also open to retailers and suppliers.

“We’re so excited to be holding the Boutique Star Awards winners’ party at London’s May Fair Hotel again this year,” says Boutique magazine

publisher Julie Neill. “The Crystal Room is absolutely beautiful and a great venue to host a night to remember, especially in the run-up to Christmas. Attendees can expect great food, drink and company as well as an unmissable opportunity to meet other like-minded retailers and brands.”

Now in its fourth year, the Boutique Star Awards 2024 is open to all fashion and lifestyle independents operating at least one bricks-and-mortar retail business as well as agents, brands and suppliers. Entries are now open via boutique-magazine.co.uk/ submit-an-entry and will close on Wednesday 31 July. Tickets for the winners’ party will go on sale this summer; E: julie@bpmedialtd.co.uk for more information.

APRIL 2024 | boutique. | 7

FASHION FIX

Consumer confidence “yet to fully turn corner” as YoY retail footfall decline continues This year’s early Easter failed to reverse the UK’s declining retail footfall trend, with physical shopper numbers decreasing by 1.3 per cent overall year-on-year (YoY) in March.

According to BRC-Sensormatic IQ data, high street footfall dropped by 1.5 per cent YoY while retail park visitor numbers fell by 3.5 per cent. Shopping centres, however, managed to entice a slight increase of 0.3 per cent more traffic compared to March 2023.

The figures were a vast improvement on the month before, with total UK footfall rising by 6.2 per cent on February. The biggest increase was seen on the high street,

with 9.3 per cent more shoppers present than there was over the previous five weeks.

Andy Sumpter, retail consultant EMEA for Sensormatic Solutions, comments: “An early, highperforming Easter helped put a spring in shoppers’ steps. This combined with a boost from Mother’s Day and the school holidays helped drive up shopper traffic in March to improve on what was a rather muted February.

However, while retailers will have welcomed the seasonal uplift, the choppy nature of footfall recovery we’ve seen over the past few months indicates that consumer confidence is yet to fully turn a corner.”

Online fashion sales rise in February as shoppers avoid rain Clothing and footwear sales rose by 7.3 per cent online in February compared to the month before, reveal figures from the Office for National Statistics (ONS). The growth helped increase online sales overall by 2.1 per cent on January - the biggest leap since July 2023. The total value of online sales also climbed 2.2 per cent year-on-year.

Rising e-commerce sales contrasted with declining overall retail sales, which fell by -0.1 per cent against January 2024. Experts believe the ‘wettest February since records began’ kept shoppers indoors and away from physical stores.

“The rain certainly wasn’t going to stop people from buying the new spring clothing and footwear collections,” says ParcelHero’s David Jinks. “The high Street saw a modest 1.7 per cent jump in clothing sales volumes, despite a very flat picture overall, but most people chose to 8 | boutique. | APRIL 2024

do their fashion shopping online.

A 7.3 per cent surge in the value of e-commerce clothing sales is an impressive result.

“We mustn’t forget that online clothing sales values actually plummeted by -15.1 per cent in January against December’s preChristmas sales, so a resurgence was due. February’s online fashion sales growth helped internet retailers to take 25.7 per cent of all retail sales, up from 25.1 per cent in January.”

CREW ON UNSPLASH

Independents’ Day UK launches 2024 campaign Retailers, BID teams and local authorities are being urged to take part in this year’s Independents’ Day UK. Now in its fourteenth year, the grassroots campaign was originally held annually on 4 July. However, for 2024, organisers have announced it will take place the following weekend from 6 - 7 July.

The initiative celebrates independent businesses and their contribution to the UK economy by encouraging consumers to shop local.

Fashion indies can take part by holding special events and promotions as well as creating themed window displays.

Business owners can also download campaign posters and social media imagery to spread the word among followers.

The campaign boasts numerous supporters including the British Independent Retailers Association (Bira), The Independent Retailers Confederation (IRC), Federation of Independent Retailers (NFRN) and the Association of Town and City Management.

For more information visit independentsdayuk.org

London Festival of Fashion A trade collective of global designers, brands, buyers, creative minds and inspiring trends Register at purexjatc.com MARCH 2024 | boutique. | 9

FASHION FIX

Boutique

Retail crime wave continues to escalate, reveals Bira poll A new survey on retail crime conducted by the British Independent Retailers Association (Bira) reveals that incidents of theft and abuse are still rising for many high street indies.

In its second retail crime study in the last six months, most indie owners surveyed (96 per cent) said in-store theft had worsened over the past 12 months compared to 92 per cent in October 2023. Items targeted by thieves range from everyday essentials to high-value goods.

However, theft of merchandise costing £200 - £499 has skyrocketed from 7.35 per cent in October to 25 per cent in 2024.

In response to escalating crime rates, shop owners say they are investing in CCTV equipment or adjusting stock to deter thieves.

In Bira’s survey, some store owners said it was “too much trouble” to report every incident to the police while many deemed it “pointless.”

barometer

The poll also indicated a slight increase in cybercrime, with incidents such as fraudulent transactions and online scams rising from 6.8 per cent to 9.4 per cent in 2024.

Bira CEO Andrew Goodacre comments: “The results of our second crime survey paint a troubling picture of the challenges faced by independent retailers across the UK. Retail crime not only inflicts financial losses but also poses a grave threat to the safety and well-being of shop staff.

“The national retail crime action plan was launched last September and maybe it is too early to judge if it is making a difference.

However, we are hearing mixed feedback about the buy-in from individual police forces and that is unacceptable. We have a national problem that merits a national, coordinated and consistent response.

Bira will continue to work with the Home Office and the police forces to better protect business owners and staff.”

INDUSTRY SALES FIGURES FEBRUARY 2024 (VS FEBRUARY 2023)

-1.83% Average sales quantity

-0.12% Average selling price

-1.12% Profit margin These figures represent findings from a cross section of independent online and bricks-and-mortar retailers around the UK. Total stock management and EPoS provider Top to Toe has compiled this industry index to offer Boutique readers an insight into what’s happening on the high street and online.

Tel: 0203 376 5888 E: info@toptotoe.com Toptotoe.com

Registration now open for INDX Woman SS25 Buyers can now register for free entry to the next edition of INDX Woman, taking place from 21-23 July at Cranmore Park Conference and Exhibition Centre.

Curated by buying group Associated Independent Stores (AIS), the Solihullbased show is for all retail buyers looking for commercially viable apparel, footwear and accessories.

Exhibitors for the coming season are yet to be confirmed but brands showing at February 2024’s event included Joules, Caprice, Ichi, Lily and Me, Pomodoro, Sahara, B Young and Another Sunday.

10 | boutique. | APRIL 2024

INDX Woman has become increasingly popular thanks to its professional yet friendly format that allows retailers to make buying decisions in a business focused setting.

Showcasing new and emerging labels alongside a line-up of returning suppliers, attendees also receive free onsite parking, barista coffee and refreshments plus complimentary breakfast pastries.

Last year saw INDX Woman (formerly known as INDX Womenswear and Accessories) celebrate its 10-year anniversary. The show’s February 2023 edition achieved

double digit growth in buyer and exhibitor numbers compared to its previous summer event.

Register for free entry via indxshows. co.uk/indx-fashion/womenswear/ registration

HARROGATE FASHION WEEK

4 - 6 AUGUST 2024

SAVE THE DATE 4 - 6 AUGUST 2024 For more information about exhibiting at HFW visit our website www.harrogatefashionweek.com or call 01423 623701

FASHION FIX

Frill seeker

Feminine and stylish, Lily and Me’s sustainable Rita Frill Shirt features a ruffled mandarin collar and neckline as well as pretty frilled cuffs.

Pair with the brand’s stretch jumbo cord cropped trousers and heels for easy everyday glamour this AW24. £POA; Tel: 01452 207 766 E: info@lilyandmeclothing.com lilyandmeclothing.com

Daring design

Japanese-British womenswear brand Ju-nna fuses timeless techniques with contemporary design. Its aesthetic defies convention, transcending the boundaries between art and fashion. Expect directional designs for daring shoppers. £POA; E: noor@blackpr.co.uk

Boutique loves…

THE FASHION BUYS WE’RE FALLING FOR THIS SPRING

Be our guest

Launched in 2016, GR London Paris offers highend couture-inspired designs for modern women.

For SS24, its collection includes show-stopping special occasion dresses such as this strapless cut out midi. £POA; E: dody@blackpr.co.uk

Pearly queen

Specialising in timeless and sustainable jewellery, Oia Boutique offers modern designs for affordable price points.

We love these Beaded Freshwater Pearl Hoop Earrings made from gold-plated stainless steel. £POA; E: gizem@oiaboutique.com

Free spirit

It’s official: boho-chic is making a come-back.

Perfect the free-spirited look this AW24 by styling Rails’ belted high-waist Descanso jeans with a shirred neck blouse and wooden clogs. £POA; E: mbryant@rails.com 12 | boutique. | APRIL 2024

APRIL 2024 | boutique. | 13

FASHION FIX

Dreamy denim Specialising in consciously kind denim, Seventy + Mochi creates season-less pieces using recycled materials and thoughtful production methods. For AW24, its collection includes staples such as this transitional maxi-length shirt dress. £POA; E: ella@somewhereagency.com

Eco chic SUSTAINABLE PRODUCTS AND BRANDS

Get crafty

Danish slow fashion brand by basics has launched a new arty mending set featuring raw cut-offs from its popular merino wool rib production alongside a needle and thread. Shoppers can use it to repair favourite styles or get crafty with upcycling to create their own one-of-akind design. £POA; Tel: 07770 934 363 E: jeremy@cates.co.uk bybasics.com

Easy like Sunday morning

Made from GMO-free sustainable natural plant waxes and premium essential oils, Swoon Worthy Scents’ Sunday Morning candle evokes the scent of freshly washed linens swaying in the sunshine. £POA; swoonworthyscents.com/pages/wholesale

Make it yours

Sustainable jewellery brand Self Published invites shoppers (and buyers) to tell their own stories by mixing and matching its pendant charms and chains. Its pieces are created mindfully using like-minded suppliers and ethical or recycled materials wherever possible. £POA; Tel: 07977 191 141 E: dani@selfpublished.co.uk

Running club

French footwear brand Veja has launched its most technical running shoe to date. Perfect for the everyday runner, the Condor 3 features a state-of-the-art 43 per cent sugar-cane-based midsole with sustainably sourced organic Amazonian rubber. There’s also a grippy outsole and full-length L-FOAM cushion to provide optimum comfort with every stride. £POA; veja-store.com 14 | boutique. | APRIL 2024

new M E R IN O BU BBL E WOOL

a raw, abstract structure jacquard knit inspired by nature 100% merino wool, naturally preorder today · delivery from may contact your local agent bybasics.com

Lily & Me

Lily & Me is on a mission to bring creative and considered clothing to your everyday.

Designed in-house at our Gloucestershire studio, we celebrate creativity and the original.

We create hand-drawn prints, unique colour palettes and carefully choose our fabrics. orders@lilyandmeclothing.com

lilyandme.com

+44(0) 1452 207 766

Stock Up

WHAT TO BUY NOW

Beach beauty

BY MALINA

A

s the promise of summer beckons, entice shoppers with stunning swim and resortwear options they can wear at home and abroad…

APRIL 2024 | boutique. | 17

STOCK UP

Summer getaway TURN UP THE GLAMOUR WITH OUR SS24 HOLIDAY EDIT

W

hether shoppers are holidaying in Bude or Bali, these summer showstoppers will help them transition from beach to bar with ease…

ELENA HAT, BY MALINA, £POA

AMSTERDAM SUNGLASSES, CHALK, £24

LAINE TOP, RAILS, £POA

RUMI DRESS, RAILS, £POA

ROSA KAFTAN, NAIA BEACH, £POA

MIRELLA EARRINGS, CAROLINE SVEDBOM, £POA

ALTINO SANDALS, ATP ATELIER, £POA

STRAW BAG, SUMMERY COPENHAGEN, £POA

18 | boutique. | APRIL 2024

STOCK UP POSITANO SWIMSUIT, NAIA BEACH, £POA SHELL CHOKER, CAROLINE SVEDBOM, £POA

KOH BIKINI, FANTASIE, £POA

LISOL DRESS, MUNTHE, £POA PAOLA SWIMSUIT,

BY MALINA, £POA

SWIMSUIT, THICKS AND BONES, £POA

LUXEMBOURGE TOP, MUNTHE, £POA

MANON KAFTAN,

BY MALINA, £POA

DUNE MIDI SKIRT,

BY MALINA, £POA

ATP ATELIER E: sales@atpatelier.com, BY MALINA E: lucy@thebrandambassadors.london, CAROLINE SVEDBOM Tel: 07778 158 986 oldstrom.com, CHALK wholesale.chalkuk.com, FANTASIE b2b.wacoal-europe.com/b2b/en/GBP/stockist, MUNTHE E: hlm@munthe.com, NAIA BEACH E: melwood@thebellaagency.co.uk, RAILS E: mbrayant@rails.com, SUMMERY COPENHAGEN E: tadas@summerycopenhagen.com, THICKS AND BONES E: thicksandbones@gmail.com

APRIL 2024 | boutique. | 19

STOCK UP

Suitcase essentials SHORT ORDER RESORTWEAR SUPPLIERS TO TOP UP YOUR STOCK THIS SUMMER

LILY AND ME

British brand Lily and Me’s injects joy into everyday wardrobes with its colourful and conscious womenswear. The Gloucestershire-based label creates one-of-a-kind prints and timeless shapes that boast quality finishing and wearability. With the natural world as its muse, its collections are characterised by a casual sense of style, happy personality and colourful approach to fashion. For SS24, its range offers in-season dresses and accessories that are perfect for summer holidays. Standouts include its easy-fit organic cotton jersey Spring Midi Dress and oversized Straw Bag with sturdy shoulder straps (both pictured) as well as its versatile cotton elastane multiband, which can be used as a scarf or hair accessory.

CONTACT: Tel: 01452 207 766 lilyandmeclothing.com

ONE HUNDRED STARS

Best known for its striking prints, One Hundred Star’s affordable yet luxurious collection includes beach-perfect kimonos and kaftans alongside dresses, separates and homewares. Buyers can expect premium sustainable fabrics throughout the range such as bemberg cupro, lenzing modal and recycled viscose. The brand also re-purposes excess fabric to make its coordinating headbands. Standout styles for SS24 including its floorlength Joy Grey String Dress (pictured), oversized Pleat Dress in the brand’s best-selling Acer print and its spring-perfect Bird Stone Throwover. Wholesale prices are around £30 on average while the minimum order requirement is £400.

CONTACT: Tel: 01142 727 852 E: sales@onehundredstars.co.uk

REBECCA RHOADES

With a strong focus on occasionwear and resortwear, Rebecca Rhoades creates colourful dresses, separates and playsuits in block colours or its own exclusive prints. Each piece is designed in-house and made to order by a team of seamstresses in Leeds. The brand uses excess fabric to create accessories while any remaining cuttings are collected by a local charity to be repurposed for arts and crafts. Key pieces for SS24 include feminine maxi dresses in tropical prints, pop-bright mini dresses and animal print jumpsuits. Since launching in 2021, the brand has experienced 350 per cent growth and already exports its collections around the world. This season sees its first foray into wholesale as it begins to build a network of retail stockists.

CONTACT: Tel: 0113 245 5187 E: info@rebeccarhoades.com 20 | boutique. | APRIL 2024

Home & Gift - Autumn Fair - Top Drawer

www.chalkuk.com

@chalkuk

01843 231300

info@chalkuk.com

Designed in the UK we believe in designing timeless, high-quality products for you and your customers to enjoy and love.

FATHER’S DAY

Dad's army GET READY FOR FATHER’S DAY WITH THESE COOL AND CONTEMPORARY GIFT AND GREETING CARDS SUPPLIERS

GINGER RAY

British brand Ginger Ray helps make every occasion memorable with its stylish partyware and decorations. First launched in 2012, the independent brand now exports its bunting, balloons and tableware worldwide. For Father’s Day 2024, its range includes a printed balloon cluster, wooden ‘Best Dad Ever’ badge and ‘Happy Father’s Day’ bunting. Sell in-store for shoppers to celebrate their dad at home or use to create an engaging (and affordable) Father’s Day window display. Registered retailers can order products via the brand’s easy-to-use online B2B portal with speedy delivery offered all year round.

CONTACT: gingerray.co.uk/trade 22 | boutique. | APRIL 2024

JEFF AND THE SQUIRREL

BELLA FREUD

For the dad who has everything, British label Bella Freud’s cool luxury socks make the perfect Father’s Day gift. Standouts in the range include retro-style sports designs as well as these cotton ribbed intarsia motif Pain Killer socks. There are plenty of other great ideas in the cult brand’s lineup too, from super-soft Italian leather card holders to sloganemblazoned bone China espresso cups. Its hand-poured candles and cult 1970 knitted sweaters will also appeal to dapper dads of all ages.

CONTACT: E: info@bellafreud.com bellafreud.com

Yorkshire’s Jeff and the Squirrel creates eco-friendly greeting cards, stationery and gifts. Its colourful designs are all produced in-house and feature vibrant illustrations and humorous messages. For Father’s Day, its line-up includes fun greetings cards and stickers for conscious dads and grandads.

The range also encompasses joyful notebooks made from recycled paper, pens, postcards and compostable badges. The brand also offers bright and sustainable packaging for businesses, such as personalised logo stickers and biodegradable cello bags.

CONTACT: E: hello@jeffandthesquirrel.co.uk jeffandthesquirrel.co.uk

FATHER’S DAY

INK & DROP

Specialising in unique art prints, Ink & Drop produces all its designs and photographs in-house. Retailers can choose from thousands of prints in a plethora of colours and themes – from animal portraits and botanical landscapes to creations by famous artists. Its team adopts the latest equipment to create bold artwork, printing each design onto high quality 250gsm matt fine art paper. There’s a wide range of options that are perfect for Father’s Day edits including travel tourism posters, geometric patterns and antique-inspired maps. We love this reproduced Mushrooms Diagram illustrated by influential biologist and naturalist Ernst Haeckel.

CONTACT: E: shop@inkanddrop.com faire.com

SAINT JAMES THE GIFT LABEL

Creating unique home and self-care gifts for both men and women, The Gift Label’s vegan-friendly product range makes present buying easy.

Each features an uplifting message on its label such as ‘Lots of Love’ and ‘You are Wonderful.’ Buyers can expect beautifully scented Netherlands-made formulations, high-quality sustainable ingredients and recycled packaging. Perfect for Father’s Day, its new Daddy Cool shower foam with argan oil and vitamin E smells like woody chypre.

CONTACT: E: b2b.thegiftlabel.com

From classic Breton tops to authentic sailor sweaters, Saint James’ iconic wardrobe staples make the perfect gift for modern, stylish dads. The heritage French lifestyle brand has been producing maritime-inspired fashion for over 130 years, reworking and updating its timeless designs each season with modern colourways and fresh details. With a focus on creating true investment pieces with enduring appeal, expect the highest quality natural fabrics and expert craftsmanship in every garment.

CONTACT: Tel: 07539 228 041 E: marc@doublehagency.com doublehagency.com APRIL 2024 | boutique. | 23

ACCESSORIES

Fashion Extras GEMMA WARD PICKS OUT SPRING’S BEST BEAUTY, FOOTWEAR AND HANDBAGS

Planet kind

Handcrafted in Bali by a small group of artisans, British brand Pineapple Island produces sustainable handcrafted unisex bracelets using eco-friendly materials. £POA; E: alice@pineapple-island.com

Finishing touch

Turn heads with London-based designer Merve Bayindir’s premium millinery pieces, which include this light blue silk sateen headband and veil. £POA; E: freya@blackpr.co.uk mervebayindir.com 24 | boutique. | APRIL 2024

Beach ready

The perfect size for everyday essentials, By Malina’s signature handmade raffia tote bag will look great this summer teamed with floaty dresses or jeans and flipflops. £POA; E: lucy@thebrandambassadors.london bymalina.com

Made for walking

Available in nine different colourways, Celtic and Co’s Double Buckle Sandals are a versatile summer shoe ideal for everything from beach days to city breaks. £POA; E: trade@celticandco.com

Shelling out

With mermaids still providing sartorial inspiration, Fable England’s Pearl Clam Shell Crossbody Bag will bring seaside charm to outfits this SS24. Tel: 0203 397 5885 E: trade@fableengland.com

Nice and spicy

With notes of cardamon, neroli, amber and sandalwood, Brûler candles’ Oriental Oud reed diffuser has a spicy unisex fragrance that’s perfect for those who prefer stronger scents. £POA; Tel: 07748 633 433 E: info@bruler-candles.com

Wild side

Made in Italy, Pashmisy’s vibrant satinsilk Jaguards in Vogue scarf features an exotic animal print with flashes of bold pink and orange. £POA; E: isida@pashmisy.com ashmisy.com

Time to downsize

Cut from the sustainable brand’s signature waterproof PU fabric, Rains’ Mini Bum Bag is a downscaled version of one of its best-selling everyday bag designs. £POA; jc@rains.com

ACCESSORIES

Dry spell

Made with all-natural ingredients, multi-tasking skincare hero Wonderbalm banishes dryness, provides deep hydration and helps restore damaged skin. £POA; E: abbie.rogers@wonderbalm.com

Orange crush

Established in 1956, Gottex creates modern swimwear designs with a focus on femininity - such as this Martini bralette and matching high rise bottoms. £POA; E: richard@albaassociates.co.uk

Over the moon

Bring some sparkle to your jewellery edit with this 14ct gold vermeil and moonstone Ice Queen ring by British brand Fool’s Gold Jewellery. £30; E: hello@foolsgoldjewellery.co.uk

Lighten up

Perfect for spring, Arran’s luxury Jasmine and Philadelphus candle features a light floral fragrance to help create a fresh and uplifting ambiance at home. £POA; arran.com/pages/arran-wholesale

Animal friendly

British comfort-driven footwear brand Calla Shoes has launched its first vegan trainer featuring a mix of sustainable and recycled materials such as cotton, polyester and rubber. £POA; callashoes.co.uk

Summer update

Add a pop of colour to sundresses and beachwear this summer with Munthe’s pretty multi-hued basket bag. £POA; E: hlm@munthe.com munthe.com

Golden hour

Made from recycled materials, Pilgrim’s gold-plated chunky semihoops are a great way to add glamour to outfits this spring. £POA; Tel: 00456 333 333 E: b2b@pilgrimdk

Good to grow

Fortified with a blend of the finest organic ingredients, Hair Veda’s nutrient-rich Avani Hair Growth Oil repairs and strengthens every strand for optimum vitality. £POA; E: info@hairveda.co.uk

Taking note

Offering 160 pages of lined and plain paper, Chalk’s gift-perfect notebooks are great for creating lists, journaling or making notes. 3pk £12; wholesale.chalkuk.com APRIL 2024 | boutique. | 25

SKINCARE

Spring clean SUPER-CHARGE YOUR SKINCARE OFFER WITH THESE UPLIFTING WASHES, CLEANSERS AND EXFOLIATORS CITRUS SCENT

Be transported to sunny days whatever the weather with Skin & Tonic’s neroli-fragranced Fresh Face Exfoliating Water. This super-smoothing tonic features next-generation polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and brightening hibiscus to gently cleanse the skin. Use every morning for a glowing complexion.

Tel: 0778 643 7774 E: charlie@beautybulb.co.uk

RAISE THE BAR

Chalk’s multi-tasking Neroli and Sweet Orange Soap Bar can be used on the face, body and hair.

Infused with pink clay, it lightly exfoliates as it cleanses to leave skin feeling fresh and revived. £3; wholesale.chalkuk.com

FRESH START

Bursting with hardworking skincare actives, Dr David Jack’s Supernova cleansing gel eradicates impurities while preserving the skin’s delicate moisture balance.

Work its nonfoaming prebioticrich formula into the face and neck to dissolve make-up and reveal ultra-clean, radiant skin. £POA; E: skincare@drdavidjack.com 26 | boutique. | APRIL 2024

APRIL SHOWERS

Made with a fresh spring blend of rose petals, lime and sandalwood, Arran’s After the Rain Hand Wash brings a touch of luxe to the bathroom. Combine with its Hand Lotion for extra indulgence. £POA; arran.com/pages/arran-wholesale

RADIANT RESULTS

Providing a great first step to any spring skincare ritual, Beautypro’s Detoxifying Bubbling Cleansing Sheet Mask micro-massages the skin to provide a deep pore cleansing treatment. Apply for 10 minutes to instantly freshen and rejuvenate. £POA; faire.com.direct/beautypro

BUSINESS SENSE FOR FASHION RETAILERS

For all agents and suppliers We are now booking in the New Season issues Please email julie@bpmedialtd.co.uk for more information on our print, digital and editorial opportunities in our forthcoming issues.

More brands plan their new season marketing campaign with Boutique magazine than any other UK trade title

Down to Business

INSIGHT FOR FASHION INDIES

Retail support

A MARISSA GOOTE ON UNSPLASH

s the nation gears up for a general election, small business owners will be considering which party is likely to offer the best support. This month we delve into the ongoing issue of business rates and why experts are calling for future governments to honour a full reform...

APRIL 2024 | boutique. | 29

DOWN TO BUSINESS

Growing pains INDEPENDENT RETAILERS ARE BEING LEFT OUT IN THE COLD WITHOUT LONG-TERM BUSINESS RATES RELIEF, SAYS HARTNELL TAYLOR COOK’S CHRIS GROSE

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he government’s broken business rates system has once again come under fire as we head towards a general election. Retail insiders were hopeful that chancellor Jeremy Hunt would announce measures to reduce the impact of the tax on high street businesses in the Spring Budget.

However, calls for a reform – which the Conservative party promised in its 2019 manifesto – continued to fall on deaf ears.

Indie retailers receiving the 75 per cent business rates discount will have breathed a sigh of relief last November at the government’s decision to extend it for another year. But whether this crutch will remain in place in the years to come remains a question mark and highlights the importance that long-term measures are implemented to make a difference to struggling retailers. Many businesses will be left blindsided should the support be taken away and rates increased further after April 2025.

While independent retailers will be concerned about any upcoming increases in business rates, perhaps more worrying is the fact that smaller properties have been left on cliff edge due to the freezing of the Small Business Rate Multiplier at 0.499p in the pound for another year.

This freeze has created a chasm for growing businesses and makes crossing any thresholds a double-edged sword.

As it stands, independent retailers with a rateable value of £50,500 could face an increase of £2,647 in rates if they expand or improve their business. A difference of just £500 in a property’s rateable value could lead to this increase, which is a significant cost to bear and a deterrent to any development and growth of the business. This poses a serious threat to small, independent business owners.

30 | boutique. | APRIL 2024

As UBR continues to rise, council tax in England has not seen a revaluation for 32 years. This is completely out of step with modern times and these differences must be remedied to accurately reflect the values properties should pay. Smaller retailers are once again on the back foot, having to deal with a jump in business rates for small footprint increases. Meanwhile, the most expensive house, worth £210m, paid just £2,844.50 in council tax in 2023/24 – not much more than for many Band D properties and significantly less than many retail premises.

Other recent developments of relevance to independent retailers include the government’s response to its consultation into empty business rates relief, published in Autumn 2023. The consultation concluded that the reoccupation period for empty properties to reset the empty rate clock will increase from six weeks to 13 weeks (three months) from 1 April 2024.

What’s more, a consultation on a general anti-avoidance rule for business rates across England will also launch.

While local authorities will welcome these changes, it needs to be remembered that the current issue of empty rates would not be as significant had the UBR had not increased to these levels to begin with.

Ultimately, the future for independent retailers in the space is once again up in the air. As green shoots of economic growth begin to show, we must not forget our fight for business rates reform to provide independent retailers with the long-term support they sorely need.

Chris Grose is director at independent property consultancy Hartnell Taylor Cook and national council member for the Institute of Revenues Rating and Valuation (IRRV); htc.uk.com

SAMUEL FOSTER ON UNSPLASH

DOWN TO BUSINESS

APRIL 2024 | boutique. | 31

DOWN TO BUSINESS

“Concentrating on B2B is our brand ethos; we want to support customers rather than taking sales” MARBLE CO-FOUNDER LYNNE WILLIAMS REVEALS WHY THE BRAND WILL NEVER SELL DIRECTLY TO CONSUMERS

S

ince launching Marble in 2008, we made a conscious decision to never sell directly to consumers.

We feel that doing so would not be fair to our wonderful boutique stockists. Concentrating on B2B is our brand ethos; we want to support our customers rather than taking their sales. We are dedicated to the success of our boutiques. If they succeed, then so do we.

Nick and I first started Marble with a vision to support retailers. We both come from an independent retail background, so we truly understand how hard it can be to run a successful business in this sector. And it’s even more difficult these days with so much competition online.

Boutiques work very hard to find products, attract customers and drive sales. They often also help raise awareness (and popularity) of brands among consumers.

The trouble with e-commerce is that it’s mostly driven by price.

‘Showrooming’ is a big issue in this industry, and we don’t feel it’s right for shoppers to try on pieces in boutiques and then buy directly from brands online.

Clearly, there are financial benefits for brands selling B2C. But we have heard some real horror stories of boutiques buying

collections only for brands to then start discounting the same products on their own websites very early on in the season. This is something we will never do.

Instead, we support our stockists by redirecting consumer enquiries to their nearest boutiques. Our system allows us to see exactly which of our customers have bought which styles in specific sizes and colours, meaning we can pass on the appropriate stockist information with shoppers. This is something we do regularly, helping to increase our customers’ sales.

We’ve also made it our mission to make it easier for our boutiques to sell Marble’s products on their own websites. We invest heavily in product photography to make online selling and marketing easier for our stockists. Retailers can access a full bank of free high-quality images every season to upload onto their own social media channels and websites.

We also provide a spread sheet containing descriptions, care instructions, colours, sizes and fit for each garment that can be easily copied and pasted online.

We don’t carry in-season stock and we manufacture all our products to order. Of course, many customers would like to be able to replenish stock in-season.

However, this could potentially

CONTACT: Tel 0141 882 6743 marblefashions.co.uk 32 | boutique. | APRIL 2024

mean that we’d be forced to sell B2C to move unsold items. As that’s something we don’t ever want to do, we remain focused on forward order. Running the business this way also means that our stock doesn’t end up on the rails of discount stores.

In addition, we don’t ever supply pure play online retailers.

Costs are often much lower for a business that doesn’t have to pay for a high street premises, which gives them more scope to discount. We don’t want our customers to have to go into price wars with online retailers; that isn’t what we’re about as a brand and it’s something we do our best to avoid.

The level of support we offer customers at Marble’s price point is quite unique. We’re proud of the brand and the relationships we’ve built with our customers.

For us, it’s more about creating (and supporting) a great network of retailers than chasing profit at any cost.

GET IN TOUCH WITH US: +44 (0)141 882 6743 INFO@MARBLEFASHIONS.CO.UK WWW.MARBLEFASHIONS.CO.UK

SHOP TALK

PHOTO BY CHARLIE GREEN ON UNSPLASH

“As much as 70 per cent of money taken by locallyowned businesses stays within the local economy” BIRA CEO ANDREW GOODACRE ON KEEPING LOCAL HIGH STREETS LOCAL

I

read an excellent article recently that pondered the question: how local is a local high street? It made me think, because in my role I’m always referencing local high streets and how crucial independent retailers are to their success.

I still fervently believe that.

However, given the changes we’re seeing in the growth of hospitality and service retailers, we should now perhaps be saying that independent businesses are the true heart of every good local high street.

Independents bring about diversity and a point of difference. They are not bound by marketing brand manuals with every store selling the same things. Yet, when I look at the local high street where I live, I still see national chains providing an ‘anchor’ to bring people in.

In larger towns and city centres we often saw these as John Lewis or Marks and Spencer. This is still true, but they have been joined by the likes of Primark. On local high streets our anchors would 34 | boutique. | APRIL 2024

have previously been banks or post offices. This is still partly true, but as we see banks closing branches in response to the growth of internet banking, their anchor status has been assumed by convenience chain shops such as Sainsbury’s Local and Tesco Express. These are local shops, employing local people and servicing local customers, but they are crucially owned by multiples.

There is research that suggests as much as 70 per cent of the money taken by locally owned businesses stays within the local economy (for example through local supply chains), which is why shopping locally is so important to an area. The harsh reality is that if mini versions of large national chains are dominating a high street it is not always to the benefit of the local area. However, we do still need their presence.

The large chains have also been smart in posing as a local business.

On my high street, for example, we have a Tesco Express and a One Stop. The latter looks more

independent in its product range and general aesthetic, yet it is owned by Tesco. This is also true for some cafes such as Coffee#1, which appears to be independent but is actually owned by Café Nero.

So, what does local mean to me?

Obviously, there is a location aspect – we’re not talking about city centres.

National chains, in any format, are of course welcome. However, we really do need to encourage local independents, too. Local to me means locally owned, selling some local products where possible, and being very much part of the local community and economy.

We know that people are still eager to shop locally. However, if the local area is to properly benefit, we need to see a higher percentage of genuine local businesses. This is why Bira is pushing local and national governments to do more to support local entrepreneurs. It is a really good way of levelling up and would be relatively low cost compared to some other government initiatives.

01784-482888

Sigal Distribution sigaldistribution@gmail.com

www.sigaldistribution.com

A lifeline for families since 1853 We’re the only organisation dedicated to supporting the children of people who work in the ritish fashion and textile industry.

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Shop Talk

INDUSTRY OPINION

Community spirit

S RUPERT AND LUCY ADAMS, REAL CLOTHING

ince opening their very first store in 2003, Real Clothing’s Lucy and Rupert Adams have experienced unprecedented changes in the world of independent fashion retail. Here the husband-and-wife team share the evolution of their business, current challenges and the benefits of working alongside a spouse…

APRIL 2024 | boutique. | 37

SHOP TALK

Keeping it real

FROM FRIENDLY CHATS TO EXPERT STYLING SESSIONS, SOUTHWELL’S REAL CLOTHING HAS BEEN AT THE HEART OF THE COMMUNITY FOR OVER TWO DECADES. GEMMA WARD MEETS CO-OWNERS LUCY AND RUPERT ADAMS TO FIND OUT MORE ABOUT THEIR UNWAVERING PASSION FOR FASHION RETAIL

R

eal Clothing’s Lucy and Rupert Adams have “lived and breathed fashion retail” for the past 20 years. Their Southwell-based store (pronounced ‘South-Well’ by locals) has featured on the town’s high street in one form or another since 2003. Over the years, the husbandand-wife team have watched their customers’ children grow up, become customers themselves and then seen them go onto have their own children: “We’ve been here for so long that we’re much more than just a shop,” says Lucy. “We’re part of the community.”

Today their 1,600sq ft two-storey store combines cool and contemporary menswear and womenswear from the UK and Europe. Core labels include Mos Mosh, Part Two, Fabienne Chapot, American Vintage, Birkenstock, Shoe the Bear, Rains, Barbour and Universal Works.

Shoppers can browse the latest womenswear at the front of the store and its menswear edit at the back. There’s a dedicated ‘sales room’ upstairs too, which the couple use periodically to move discounted stock.

Positioned on the market town’s main thoroughfare in a 400-year-old building, Real Clothing is flanked 38 | boutique. | APRIL 2024

by other perusable lifestyle independents as well as country pubs, intimate restaurants and delicatessens.

The store was recently voted Best for Women’s Fashion in the Nottinghamshire and Derbyshire Muddy Stilettos Awards while neighbours Last Night I Dreamt and The Old Theatre Deli were also crowned Best Jeweller and Best Café. While Southwell’s town centre seems remarkably miniature to achieve all three accolades in one year, its unique shops, historic minster, racecourse and surrounding countryside are highly revered, pulling in crowds from across the country - especially during the summer.

Retail background

Real Clothing’s current green fronted store (which can only be painted in council-approved colours) is somewhat different to its original incarnation.

For the past two decades, its owners have steered the business through several economic booms and austerities, expanding with more bricks-and-mortar sites before down-sizing to concentrate on one single store.

SHOP TALK

Rupert has been in the industry for most of his life. After beginning his career in high street retail, he moved to Manchester to work as a sales rep and agent.

Lucy, meanwhile, worked in banking before taking voluntary redundancy following the birth of their twins in 2002. It was during this period that Rupert’s parents decided to retire from their Southwell-based menswear shop and suggested the couple took over: “We wanted to move back to the Nottingham area, so running the family business seemed like the ideal solution,” says Lucy. “With Rupert’s background, we felt we could really make it work.”

The small store Lucy and Rupert first took on, however, was completely different to today’s Real Clothing: “It was a small, traditional gentleman’s outfitters shop that had been open since 1976,” says Rupert.

“My parents had taken over in 1990 as something to run while they were semi-retired. But soon after we took over, I realised I wanted something a bit more exciting.”

New direction

In 2003, the pair decided to completely rebrand and began sourcing menswear for the area’s younger clientele from labels such as Barbour, Marc O’Polo and Lacoste. Some of these original brands remain key at the store today. They also moved to much larger nearby premises, enabling them to extend their offer of categories and brands. It wasn’t long before they’d set their sights

on cornering the town’s trendier womenswear market, too: “I’d been working for the business on an ad hoc basis, mostly looking after the finances,” says Lucy. “We started to hear quite a few comments from local women who said they’d like a female version of the shop. So, in 2005, we decided to open a second store just a few doors down the road with a focus on womenswear. I’ve always loved fashion, so I took it on as my new full-time role.”

APRIL 2024 | boutique. | 39

SHOP TALK Lucy recalls her very first buying trip, which saw her blow most of the season’s budget at Nicole Farhi.

“It was a real baptism of fire as while I knew about finances, I had absolutely no idea about buying,” she says. “I made some mistakes in the early days, but as I learned my confidence began to grow.”

The couple say lifestyle brands were having a moment in the business’s infancy, so they invested in pieces from the likes of Great Plains and White Stuff. The two stores remained as separate entities, with Rupert heading up buying for the menswear and Lucy in charge of womenswear.

“With two very young boys at home it was quite difficult to go on buying trips together,” says Lucy. “Even to this day that’s how we run things; I don’t really get involved in menswear and Rupert doesn’t with the womenswear. It works well for us.”

By the late noughties business was booming, so the couple opened a third shop in Nottingham’s trendy West Bridgford – now with a third child, aged 18 months, in tow.

“Don’t ask me how we managed

40 | boutique. | APRIL 2024

it,” says Lucy. The new site offered a similar product offer while appealing to a comparable affluent target market. It also gave the business more flexibility, as it meant they could swap stock between the sites. “Before online shopping become popular, the West Bridgford store was an incredible retail business,” says Rupert. “But in the end, I think being positioned so close to Nottingham City Centre was perhaps its downfall. We closed in 2018, thankfully before the pandemic, and I think that was a really good time to go.”

In 2021, when social distancing guidance was in place, Lucy and Rupert decided to bring womenswear into Real Clothing’s much larger menswear store. After just a few days of combining the two, they realised it made much more sense: “Our customers liked everything under one roof plus it eased things financially,” says Rupert. “We had better foot flow, significantly lower overheads and running the business became far less stressful. I think it’s fairly common for retail groups to have one store

that’s more profitable and for the others to draw on its success. We’re really happy to be able to concentrate on one bricks-and-mortar shop.”

Digital world

Aside from the physical store, Real Clothing has had an e-commerce presence since the early days of online shopping. Its first transactional site launched in 2012 following hefty investment, which allowed Lucy and Rupert to grow its customer base. However, following the UK’s withdrawal from the EU, e-commerce took a significant hit: “We lost a lot of online orders from overseas after Brexit,” says Rupert. “Prior to that we were sending parcels out all over Europe, but that business has disappeared. Brexit was a massive own goal for this country.”

The couple say buying for the business itself was also heavily impacted by the changes as they were importing a large percentage of European brands: “It was really damaging and a complete nightmare in terms of paperwork,” says Rupert. “You’d have couriers turning up demanding extra payments before they’d hand over stock and some were adding on extra fees. The fallout of Brexit didn’t receive the airtime it should have because it happened in the middle of the pandemic.”

There have been more online adversities along the way too, perhaps most notedly when online marketplace Atterley went bust in December 2022. “That was a real smack in the teeth,” says Rupert.

“We’d just had a really busy period running up to Christmas, so the timing was awful. We lost thousands of pounds that we’ll never get back; it impacted us significantly.”

Despite the incident, Real Clothing continues to trade via Trouva – one of Atterley’s main competitors. The pair say this helps it reach a wider audience while hopefully increasing brand awareness. “It isn’t a huge proportion of the business by

SHOP TALK any means, but it’s been helpful to us,” says Rupert. “Receiving a £250 order on a wet Wednesday afternoon can really help keep things ticking along.”

The couple has also just invested in updating the store’s website, which they hope will increase traffic over the coming months. Currently, online sales make up around 15 per cent of Real Clothing’s overall revenue, so rebuilding its customer base is a key focus for 2024. “We wanted the new website to represent what it’s like coming into the physical store,” says Lucy. “We’ve got some great photography of ourselves and the team on the site and we aim to provide a really outstanding service.

We want to get away from the idea that online shopping is only about transactional relationships.”

Service with a smile

When it comes to customer service, Real Clothing’s physical store still retains its old-school charm.

Customers are offered a friendly shopping experience with styling advice if they want it, or just a chat if they don’t: “We’re both talkers and love being social,” says Lucy. “We don’t ever give anyone the hard sell and we aren’t pushy in the slightest.

I’ve talked about everything in this shop from pregnancy to the menopause. It’s a real privilege to see people leaving feeling happier than they were when they came in, whether that’s because they’ve bought something great or have been able to offload.”

For a lot of people, the thought of working alongside a spouse every day is probably unimaginable. But for Lucy and Rupert, it’s something they wouldn’t have any other way: “We’ve been together for 34 years and I usually know what Rupert’s thinking before he’s said a word,” says Lucy.

“There are some challenges, but we’re quite clear in our own distinct roles.

A good sense of humour is also very important.” Rupert adds: “I think the beauty of being a husband-and-wife team is that we completely understand

each other and all the stress that comes with running a small business. We bounce off each other – at work and at home – and we keep each other going through the good and bad.”

At 56 and 59, the couple is in no rush to slow down anytime soon.

“We’re just as excited about the business as we were 20 years ago,” says Lucy. “We love opening every box that comes in and every order we place.

We enjoy chatting to customers and

being part of the local community. We honesty just love it all.”

So, with three almost grown-up sons, do they see themselves ever passing on the family baton to the next generation? “We wouldn’t want to sway their decision about what they do as we know what goes into making this business work – and it’s a lot,” Lucy adds. “It’s 24/7; we’re fully invested. You just couldn’t do what we do if you weren’t.”

APRIL 2024 | boutique. | 41

“I relish the tactile experience of shopping and the diversity of high streets” AMY COOK IS THE FOUNDER OF MELBOURNE-BASED WOMENSWEAR INDEPENDENT EIGHTY SEVEN

N

amed after founder Amy Cook’s birth year, Derbyshire independent Eighty Seven offers an curated edit of womenswear and accessories inspired by global travel. The business first opened in 2016 as a small boutique in the market town of Melbourne. Today it is a three-storey destination store stocking brands such as Mos Mosh, Second Female and Suncoo Paris. Here its founder reveals its biggest challenges, best selling brands and process behind its recent refurbishment…

How is business at the moment?

We've had a positive start to the spring season at Eighty Seven. It's been an interesting year navigating the challenges that come with an ever-changing economy.

Our focus on staying flexible and responsive to these changes has served us well, and we're seeing that effort reflected in the warm reception of our SS24 collection.

What’s been selling particularly well?

environment. Our social media has been buzzing with anticipation from customers planning their visits, eager to experience the new space in person.

Have you introduced any new brands for SS24?

We've introduced several fresh brands including Bonte, Esme Studios, and Hod Paris, each bringing a unique flair to the store. They've already resonated well with our customers and contributed to Eighty Seven’s dynamic edit.

Why did you decide to expand your lifestyle offer?

Responding to customer feedback, we’ve broadened our horizons to include homeware and thoughtful gifting. The new ranges echo the distinctive style of Eighty Seven. I hope it speaks to our commitment to cater to our customers' lifestyle needs.

Our denim range has particularly resonated with our clients this season, especially barrel leg and boyfriend cuts in washes that are perfect for spring. We maintain a selective stock to ensure our offerings are unique, catering to customers that value exclusivity. Alongside denim, transitional pieces like versatile dresses and summery shirts have seen strong interest, attesting to their adaptability from crisp to sunny days.

What do you love most about indie retail?

Tell us about your recent store refurbishment…

What are the biggest challenges you’re facing right now?

After seven years, the store's evolution mirrored my personal growth. It's now a space that reflects a sereneyet-vibrant atmosphere inspired by my travels and unique style. This refresh also aligns with our expansion into homeware, gifting and accessories, transforming Eighty Seven into a lifestyle destination. The revamped space has exceeded my expectations. I'm most proud of how the store now embodies a blend of quality and unique style, enhancing the shopping journey for our customers.

How have customers reacted to the space?

The feedback has been heart-warmingly positive, affirming that the redesign resonates with our customers’ desires for a tranquil and inviting shopping 42 | boutique. | APRIL 2024

For me, the charm of independent retail is unparalleled. I relish the tactile experience of shopping, the diversity of high streets, and the personal connection that comes from a curated space. This is what excites me about the future of independent retail – the continued allure of distinct, personal shopping experiences.

Navigating the challenging landscape, from economic pressures to the evolving retail climate, requires tenacity. But passion and a keen understanding of our customers' needs keep us moving forward. The team hope to provide a blend of exceptional service and beautiful product offerings that resonate with our customers.

What are your plans for the rest of the year?

As we progress through the year, our focus is on elevating the Eighty Seven experience, inviting both loyal and new customers to discover the uniqueness of our store and the beauty of Melbourne. We encourage people to visit and explore the unique tapestry of shops, delis, cafés, and restaurants our town has to offer.

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APRIL 2024 | boutique. | 45

2024 Categories RETAILER AWARDS Fashion Independent of the Year

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AWARDS

2024

DON’T MISS OUT ON THE PARTY OF THE YEAR! CELEBRATING INDEPENDENT FASHION RETAILERS AND SUPPLIERS

Entry Deadline: 31st July For entry and ticket information please contact julie@bpmedialtd.co.uk

Independent Group of the Year Social Media Strategy of the Year New Independent of the Year Sustainability Advocate of the Year Community Hero of the Year NEW: Independent Employer of the Year NEW: Store Design of the Year NEW: Shop Window of the Year SUPPLIER AWARDS British Brand of the Year International Brand of the Year Fashion Agency of the Year Fashion Distributor of the Year Female-Founded Brand of the Year Sustainable Brand of the Year NEW: Footwear Brand of the Year NEW: Jewellery Brand of the Year NEW: EPoS Provider of the Year SPECIAL AWARDS Newcomer Lifetime Achievement Outstanding Business

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