Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall is a writer, broadcaster and campaigner. His series for Channel Four have earned him a huge popular following, while his River Cottage books have collected multiple awards including the Glenfiddich Trophy (twice), the André Simon Food Book of the Year (three times), the Michael Smith Award (twice) and, in the US, the James Beard Cookbook of the Year. In 2012, River Cottage Veg Every Day! was voted the Best Cookbook in the Observer Food Monthly Awards. Hugh lives in Devon with his family. First published in Great Britain 2013 This paperback edition published 2014 Text © 2013 by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall Photography © 2013 by Simon Wheeler Photographs on pages 6, 81, 145, 164, 321, 343, 347 and 386–7 © 2013 by Marie Derôme Illustrations © 2013 by Andy Smith The moral right of the author has been asserted Bloomsbury Publishing Plc 50 Bedford Square London WC1B 3DP Bloomsbury is a trademark of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc Bloomsbury Publishing, London, New Delhi, New York and Sydney A CIP catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library ISBN 978 1 4088 5931 5 Project editor: Janet Illsley Designer: Lawrence Morton Photographer and stylist: Simon Wheeler (simonwheeler.eu) Illustrator: Andy Smith (asmithillustration.com) Indexer: Hilary Bird 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed and bound in Barcelona, Spain, by Tallers Gràfics Soler
d n a with labneh
ss e r c r e t a w
Labneh is a very simple type of Middle Eastern cheese that can be created at home by just straining some good, plain yoghurt. You can also buy labneh in some delis. Its creamy-but-tangy flavour is a lovely foil to peppery watercress and sweet-sharp raspberries. This salad is delicious as a starter, but also works well as part of a spread of mezze-style dishes.
Start by making the labneh, which you need to do several hours in advance, or ideally a day or two before. Put the yoghurt in a bowl, add the ½ teaspoon salt and mix thoroughly. Line a sieve with a square of clean muslin or a clean, thin cotton cloth. Spoon the salted yoghurt into the centre of the cloth, then flip the sides of the cloth over the yoghurt to cover it and place the sieve over a bowl.
Leave in a cool place (the fridge, if you can fit it in) to drain for at least 2 hours (or up to 4 hours), until a significant amount of liquid has drained into the bowl and the yoghurt has the texture of thick crème fraîche or clotted cream. Transfer the labneh to a bowl and refrigerate until needed. You’ll probably find that the labneh continues to release liquid – just pour it off before serving. When you’re ready to serve, take a large serving platter and spread the labneh cheese over it in a thick, swirly layer. Tear the watercress over – it should be scattered on like a herb, rather than layered thickly – then add the raspberries. Trickle over plenty of extra virgin olive oil and a healthy squeeze of orange or lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper and serve, with warm flatbreads or pitta breads.
16 SUMMER BERRIES & CURRANTS
500ml plain wholemilk yoghurt ½ teaspoon fine sea salt 2–3 handfuls of watercress
Extra virgin olive oil, to trickle A good squeeze of orange or lemon juice Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Slow-roast lamb shoulder with spiced
Lamb and apricots is a stunning combination, the tangy sharpness of the fruit being the perfect foil to the meat’s fatty richness. This dish works best with mature lamb that has a reasonable covering of fat – or hogget or mutton if you can get it. Preheat the oven to 220°C/Gas 7. Put the lamb into a large roasting tin, season it well with salt and pepper and trickle over a little olive oil. Roast for 30–40 minutes until starting to colour. Take out of the oven.
Serves 6–8 1 shoulder of mature lamb, or mutton or hogget, on the bone A little olive oil, to trickle 2 teaspoons fennel seeds
Pour a glass of water into the tin (not over the meat), cover with foil and return to the oven. Lower the setting to 120°C/Gas ½ and cook for a further 6 hours, or until the meat is very tender and falling off the bone, adding another glass of water halfway through if the tin is dry.
3 teaspoons coriander seeds
Meanwhile toast the fennel and coriander seeds, cinnamon, cardamom, peppercorns and star anise in a dry frying pan over a medium heat for a few minutes until fragrant. Allow to cool, then crush together as best you can using a pestle and mortar (they won’t be eaten so needn’t be fine). Combine the crushed spices with the chilli flakes and paprika.
10 cardamom pods
After the 6 hours, spoon off the excess fat from the lamb roasting tin, leaving the dark juices. Arrange the apricot halves around the lamb and scatter the spices and garlic over them (not over the meat). Return the tin to the oven for 25–30 minutes, or until the apricots are tender and breaking down. Remove the lamb to a warm plate or board to rest. Use a spatula to scrape all the fruit, spice and sticky lamb juices from the tin into a sieve – you can use a splash of hot water to help loosen the very last of the goodness in the tin. Then rub through the sieve into a bowl to create a rich, spiced apricot sauce. Taste it and add more salt and pepper if required. If it’s very thick, loosen with a little more water. Thickly slice the lamb, or shred it with two forks if you prefer. Serve with the warm, spicy apricot sauce poured over and scattered with a few torn mint leaves if you have any. A green salad and a big bowl of fluffy couscous go very well alongside. 112 STONE FRUIT
1 cinnamon stick, broken in half
1 teaspoon black peppercorns 2 star anise 2 teaspoons dried chilli flakes 2 teaspoons sweet smoked paprika 10–12 apricots, halved and stoned 4 garlic cloves, finely sliced Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper Mint leaves, to finish (optional)
Peaches and cream
with meringue and pistachios
Serves 6 For the meringues A little sunflower oil, for oiling 2 medium free-range egg whites 100g caster sugar For the fruit, cream and pistachios 75g unsalted pistachio nuts 5–6 ripe peaches or nectarines 2 teaspoons orange flower water (optional) 300ml double cream 35g caster sugar 1 vanilla pod
A very elegant take on the irresistible Eton mess, this dish features a wonderful combination of textures as well as flavours. The orange flower water is not essential – but it helps, along with the pistachios, to take this dish in a delightfully Moorish direction. For the meringues, preheat the oven to 100°C/Gas ¼. Line a baking sheet with non-stick baking parchment and brush very lightly with oil. Beat the egg whites in a bowl with a handheld electric whisk, or in a mixer, for several minutes until thick, white and holding firm peaks when you lift up the beaters. Keep beating, gradually adding the sugar a tablespoonful at a time. Stop when all the sugar is incorporated and you have a very thick, glossy meringue that holds firm peaks. Spoon the meringue on to the baking tray in 6 equal-sized oval mounds. Bake for 3 hours, then transfer to a wire rack and leave to cool completely. Gently toast the pistachios in a dry frying pan over a medium heat for 3–4 minutes, until lightly coloured, then tip into a clean tea towel. Rub the nuts inside the cloth to remove most of the skins. Leave to cool completely, then crush the nuts lightly with the flat of a large knife. Peel your peaches if you wish (see page 124). Halve and stone the fruit (this is tricky if you’ve peeled them as they will be slippery but you can simply cut the flesh away from the stones). Now cut the peach flesh into small chunks. If using orange flower water, add it to the peach pieces and toss well. Leave to macerate for half an hour. Pour the cream into a bowl and add the sugar. Slit open the vanilla pod, scrape out the seeds with the tip of a small, sharp knife and add them to the bowl. Whip until the cream forms soft peaks. To serve, divide the peaches, meringue and cream between individual bowls and finish with a scattering of pistachios. Variations Replace the peaches with raspberries or strawberries, or tropical fruit such as diced, lime-spritzed mango or papaya, or passion fruit pulp. Toasted flaked almonds are an easy swap for the pistachios.
Pear and frangipane toffee tart This is such a winning flavour combination and the tart looks really impressive. It also works well with apples. To make the pastry, put the flour, icing sugar and salt in a food processor and blitz briefly to combine. Add the butter and blitz until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. (Or you can rub the butter into the flour/icing sugar in a bowl, using your fingertips.) Add the egg yolk and enough milk to bring the dough together in large clumps. Tip on to a lightly floured surface and knead lightly into a ball. Wrap in cling film and chill for 30 minutes. Preheat the oven to 200Â°C/Gas 6 and grease a large baking tray or line with baking parchment. Peel, quarter and core the pears, then slice each quarter lengthways in two. Heat the butter and brown sugar together in a frying pan over a medium heat and, when bubbling, add the pears. Cook gently for a few minutes, until the pears are just tender and bubbling in a toffeeish sauce. Drain the pears in a sieve over a bowl, retaining all the sauce. Allow to cool. Set the sauce aside. For the frangipane, cream the butter and sugar together in a bowl until fluffy. Add the egg, flour, ground almonds and vanilla and beat well until evenly combined. Roll out the pastry into a rough rectangle, no thinner than 4mm, and trim to about 30 x 25cm. Place on the prepared baking tray. Spread the frangipane mixture over the pastry, leaving a slight border around the edge. Arrange the cooked pears over the frangipane, then sprinkle with the demerara sugar and flaked almonds. Bake for 20 minutes until the pastry is golden brown at the edges. Allow the tart to cool for 10 minutes or so before serving. Meanwhile, warm the toffee sauce through, stirring well to re-emulsify if it has separated slightly. Serve slices of the warm tart, with pouring cream and a generous trickle of the warm toffee sauce. 214 PEARS & QUINCES
Serves 8â€“10 For the sweet shortcrust pastry 250g plain flour 25g icing sugar A pinch of salt 150g cold unsalted butter, cut into cubes 1 free-range egg yolk, beaten About 50ml cold milk (or water) For the pears 4 barely-ripe pears 50g butter 2 tablespoons soft brown sugar 1 tablespoon demerara sugar 1 tablespoon flaked almonds For the frangipane 75g butter, softened 75g caster sugar 1 large free-range egg, lightly beaten 20g plain flour 75g ground almonds A dash of vanilla extract
Roast chicken with pomegranate Pomegranate seeds have a fresh-scented juice bubble around a pleasingly crunchy little ‘nut’ and they are a gorgeous way to dress tender roasted meats, especially lamb and chicken.
Take the chicken from the fridge about an hour before cooking so it comes to room temperature. Preheat the oven to 210°C/Gas 6–7.
30g butter, softened
In a small bowl, work the butter with the lemon zest, chopped thyme, 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil and a good twist of salt and pepper. Untruss the bird and put it into a smallish roasting dish. Pull the legs away from the body slightly so hot air can circulate. Carefully release the skin over the breast at the neck end with your fingers and spread most of the flavoured butter under the skin, smearing the rest over it. Season the skin with salt and pepper. Roast the bird in the oven for 20 minutes, then take it out and baste with the buttery juices. Lower the setting to 180°C/Gas 4 and return the chicken to the oven. Roast for a further 40–50 minutes. To check if the bird is cooked, pull at the leg. It should come away from the body with relative ease, and the juices between the leg and breast should be clear. If the leg is reluctant, and the juices still pink, give it another 10 minutes, then test again. When you’re happy your bird is nicely done, rest it for 10–15 minutes in a warm place – on or beside the cooker if that is convenient. Meanwhile, in a bowl, mix the yoghurt with the lemon juice, garlic, chilli flakes, if using, and the remaining olive oil. Season with a pinch of salt and some pepper. Cut the chicken into chunky pieces and arrange on a warm serving dish or plates. Spoon over the yoghurt, scatter over the pomegranate seeds and trickle over the warm roasting juices. Serve at once. This is particularly good with rice or couscous, and a bitter leaf salad. Variation You could use a pheasant (or two) instead of the chicken. 272 FIGS, MELONS, GRAPES & MORE
1 free-range chicken (1.75–2kg)
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon A small bunch of thyme, leaves only, roughly chopped 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 200ml plain wholemilk yoghurt A scrap of crushed or finely grated garlic (about ¼ clove) A pinch of dried chilli flakes (optional) 2 pomegranates, seeds extracted (as described on page 262) Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
For Louisa Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall is an award-winning writer, broadcaster and food campaigner with an uncompromising commitment to seasonal, ethically produced food. He has been presenting programmes for Channel Four for over fifteen years, and this is the seventh River Cottage book he has written. His previous work includes The River Cottage Cookbook, for which he won the Glenfiddich Trophy and the André Simon Award, The River Cottage Meat Book and The River Cottage Fish Book, both of which also won the André Simon Award, The River Cottage Family Cookbook, which was the Guild of Food Writers Cookery Book of the Year, and River Cottage Every Day. He writes a weekly recipe column for the Guardian. Hugh and his family live in Devon, not far from River Cottage HQ, where Hugh and his team teach and host events that celebrate their enthusiasm for local, seasonal produce. First published in Great Britain 2011 This paperback edition published 2014 Text © 2011 by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall Photography © 2011 by Simon Wheeler Illustrations © 2011 by Mariko Jesse The moral right of the author has been asserted Bloomsbury Publishing Plc, 50 Bedford Square, London WC1B 3DP Bloomsbury is a trademark of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc Bloomsbury Publishing, London, New Delhi, New York and Sydney A CIP catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library ISBN 978 1 4088 5929 2 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Project editor: Janet Illsley Designer: Lawrence Morton Photographer and stylist: Simon Wheeler (simonwheeler.eu) Illustrator: Mariko Jesse (marikojesse.com) Printed and bound in Barcelona, Spain, by Tallers Gràfics Soler
a uk ho ac Ch
This spicy North African pepper and tomato stew with eggs baked on top makes a lovely, lazy supper. The classic Italian peperonata (see below) is prepared in the same way but without eggs or spices – it is equally good.
3 tablespoons olive oil 1 teaspoon cumin seeds 1 large onion, halved and finely sliced 1 garlic clove, crushed 1 red pepper, cored, deseeded and finely sliced 1 yellow pepper, cored, deseeded and finely sliced
Heat the olive oil in a large, preferably ovenproof, frying pan over a medium heat. Add the cumin seeds and let them fry gently for a couple of minutes. Add the onion and cook gently for 8–10 minutes, or until soft and golden. Add the garlic and peppers and continue to cook over a low heat for at least 20 minutes, stirring often, until the peppers are soft and wilted. Add the paprika, crumble in the saffron, then add the tomatoes with their juice and some salt and pepper. Cook gently, stirring from time to time, for 10–15 minutes. Preheat the oven to 180°C/Gas Mark 4.
½ teaspoon hot smoked paprika A pinch of saffron strands 400g tin plum tomatoes, roughly chopped, any stalky ends and skin removed 4 eggs Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Taste the mixture and adjust the seasoning if necessary. If your frying pan isn’t ovenproof, transfer the mixture to a baking dish. Make 4 hollows in the surface and carefully break an egg into each one. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Bake for 10–12 minutes, until the egg white is set and the yolk still runny. VARIATION
Peperonata Simply leave out the cumin, paprika, saffron and eggs, serving the stew after simmering – with bread and/or a crisp green salad. 20 • COMFORT FOOD & FE ASTS
Fish-free salad niçoise Without any tuna or anchovies, I guess you might upset the good people of Nice a bit with this one, but it is an exceptionally delicious and substantial salad – with plenty going on. I like to cook the eggs so they are hard-boiled but with the yolk still quite soft and sticky.
500g new potatoes 200g French beans, cut into roughly 3cm lengths 4 large eggs, at room temperature 2–3 Little Gem or similar lettuces A handful of small black olives About 12 large basil leaves, torn (or use small ones whole) Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper FOR THE DRESSING
½ small garlic clove, crushed with a little coarse sea salt 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon cider vinegar 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard A pinch of sugar
You can cook small new potatoes whole, but cut any larger ones in half or smaller, so they’re all roughly the same size. Cover with cold water, add salt and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 8–12 minutes until tender, adding the beans for the last 4 minutes. Drain, tip into a bowl and leave to cool. To cook the eggs, bring a pan of water to the boil. Add the eggs, return to a simmer, then cook for 7 minutes. Lightly crack the shells and run the eggs under cold water for a minute or two to stop the cooking, then leave to cool. Peel and quarter the eggs. To make the dressing, put all the ingredients into a screw-topped jar, seasoning with salt and pepper, and shake until emulsified. Halve, quarter or thickly slice the cooked potatoes. Put them back with the beans, add some of the dressing and toss gently together. Separate the lettuce leaves and gently toss in a bowl with a little of the dressing. Arrange the lettuce, potatoes and beans on a serving platter and distribute the olives and eggs over the salad. Scatter with torn basil, trickle over the remaining dressing and grind over some pepper. Serve straight away, with bread.
he art y SAL ADS • 85
Beetroot with walnuts and cumin This is a lovely way to use raw beetroot, balancing its rooty sweetness with a touch of bitterness from walnuts and cumin’s aromatic warmth. The orange and lemon dressing lightens and brightens the whole thing, and the optional yoghurt finish makes it a little more substantial and indulgent. In the summer, if you can get hold of fresh baby beetroot, just peel and thinly slice, rather than grate them. And do experiment with other nuts – pistachios and pecans work well.
75g walnuts 1 teaspoon cumin seeds About 400g beetroot A good handful of parsley, chopped
Heat a dry frying pan over a medium heat and add the walnuts. Toast gently for a few minutes, tossing often, until they smell toasted and are colouring in a few places. Tip into a mortar. Put the cumin seeds into the frying pan and toast gently for 1–2 minutes, tossing a few times, just until they start to release their scent. Tip on to a plate to stop them cooking further.
Juice of 1 small orange A squeeze of lemon juice 2 tablespoons rapeseed oil Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to finish (OPTIONAL)
2 tablespoons plain (full-fat) yoghurt A little more toasted and roughly bashed cumin A pinch of hot smoked paprika
Peel the beetroot and grate it coarsely (or cut into julienne with a mandoline) into a bowl. Add the parsley, orange juice and a squeeze of lemon juice, 1 tablespoon rapeseed oil and some salt and pepper. Give it a good mix, taste and adjust the seasoning. Ideally leave for 20 minutes or so – the dressing will lightly marinate and tenderise the beetroot. Spread the beetroot in a dish or on a plate. Bash the walnuts roughly with the pestle and mortar and scatter over the beetroot. Tip the cumin seeds into the mortar and give them a rough bashing too, then scatter over the salad. Finish with another trickle of rapeseed oil, and, if you like, dot with blobs of yoghurt, sprinkling with more cumin and a pinch of paprika. R AW ASSEMBLIES • 113
Pizza with new potatoes, rosemary and blue cheese This pizza really packs a punch and is a lovely way to use up leftover new potatoes. It definitely wants some salad standing by and I love it served with a big, tangled pile of rocket. As ever, for those who are not wild about blue cheese, a crumbly goat’s cheese or a combination of ricotta and Parmesan makes a good alternative.
MAKES 3 PIZZAS, EACH SERVING 2–3
1 quantity magic bread dough (see page 172) FOR THE TOPPING
3 tablespoons rapeseed or olive oil, plus a little extra to trickle 2 onions, quartered and finely sliced 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 tablespoons finely chopped rosemary About 200g cold, cooked new potatoes, cut into 2–3mm thick slices 150g blue cheese, such as Dorset Blue Vinny or Harbourne Blue, crumbled or roughly sliced Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Prepare the dough and leave to rise according to the instructions on page 172. Preheat the oven to 250°C/Gas Mark 9, if it goes that high, or at least 220°C/Gas Mark 7. Put a baking sheet in to heat up. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a frying pan over a medium heat and add the onions. Once sizzling, lower the heat and cook gently, stirring from time to time, until they are soft and golden, about 15 minutes. Turn off the heat and stir in the garlic, rosemary and salt and pepper. Tip the dough out on to a lightly floured surface and deflate with your fingers. Leave it to rest for a few minutes, then cut it into three. Roll out one piece as thinly as you can. Scatter a peel (if you have one) or another baking sheet with a little flour and place the dough base on it. Spread a third of the onion mixture evenly over the dough, then a third of the potato slices, then a third of the cheese. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Slide the pizza on to the hot baking sheet in the oven (for a really crispy crust), or you can simply lay the baking sheet on the hot one in the oven (to avoid the tricky pizza transfer). Trickle with a little more oil and bake for 10–12 minutes until the base is crisp and the top bubbling. Repeat with the remaining dough and topping. Serve at once, in generous slices, with lots of rocket or another green salad.
182 • BRE ADY THINGS
ese e h c s ’ t rly ed goa d n ea inde m a f g r fro lo r ve e m va d, o em eg. i m r u n v th ar ha ith s w a he to king reen t t a t es oo nt g te Frit c ra ato e t ut er leb ce w po – b diff o t e re ee ay ed n he thr w r k m ely coo the o o v w o e t l se s a som an u use i o e ta av u c e t ta rit ou h g, yo . I lik f l na . If y r ve long o i e t di veg tov ke tra er r lef ’t ta m e A sn h m su y ot doe an atch scr
400g new potatoes About 300g mixed summer veg, such as asparagus, French beans, shelled young broad beans, shelled or frozen peas (defrosted), broccoli 2 tablespoons rapeseed or olive oil 2 bunches of spring onions, trimmed and roughly chopped A good handful of chives and/ or flat-leaf parsley, chopped 7 large or 8 medium eggs About 75g medium-strong goat’s cheese (hard or soft, it doesn’t matter) Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Cut the new potatoes into 5mm slices. Put them into a large pan, cover with plenty of water, add salt and bring to the boil. Meanwhile, if using, cut French beans and asparagus into 3–4cm lengths; cut broccoli into small florets. When the potatoes come to the boil, add the green vegetables. Once the water has returned to the boil, reduce the heat and simmer for 3–4 minutes, by which time all the veg should be just tender. Drain well. Preheat the oven to 180°C/Gas Mark 4, or preheat the grill to medium. Heat the oil in a large non-stick frying pan (about 28cm) over a medium heat. Add the spring onions and sweat for about 5 minutes, until soft. Add the drained vegetables and herbs and toss with the onions. Turn the heat to medium-low. Beat the eggs together with plenty of salt and pepper and pour over the veg in the pan. Cook gently, without stirring, until the egg is about two-thirds set, with a layer of wet egg still on top. Crumble or roughly chop the cheese and scatter over the surface of the frittata, then transfer the pan to the oven or grill for a further 4–5 minutes, until the egg is all set and the top is starting to colour. Leave to cool slightly, then slide the frittata out on to a plate or board. Serve warm or cold, cut into slices.
232 • store- cupboard SUPPERS