FOODIST ISSUE 13

Autumn 2020 / Issue 13

Shooting for the stars Elsa Messi p.10 // It’s time to FALL in love Nicholas Diacono p.16 Hidden Veggies Kristina Cassar Dowling p.33 // The Boris Johnson Claude Camilleri p.41

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www.myparktowers.com

Psaila Street, Santa Venera t. 2148 0807

Gorg Borg Olivier Street, St Julian’s t. 2137 8520

Spinola Park, St Julian’s t. 2138 1055

A new leaf As time goes by, many are switching to a plant-based diet. It's never too late to turn a new leaf for the benefit of your health and the environment by changing your food patterns and focus on foods primarily from plants.

In this case, Rachel Zammit Cutajar shares a few plant-based recipes you might like to try.

In this issue you will also come across some autumn recipes you'll definitely fall for as the weather starts to get cooler.

Elsa Messi interviews Victor Borg of Roselli's Grain Street and the Michelinstarred Under Grain.

And why not sift through Messi's pick of the hottest openings in town if you are baffled over where you want to go out and eat. You'll be spoilt for choice!

And if you're into ethnic food, we have outlined a number of go-to places.

We've also featured something on mackerel. But we are giving too much away so it is time to leaf it in your hands to explore what's in store this autumn.

www.bemags.com @foodistmag @foodistmag Editor Anthony P. Bernard Design BE. DESIGN Printing Print It Exclusively distributed at all Park Towers Supermarkets check-out points and selected outlets such as delis, wine shops, cafes, bistros and restaurants.

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Autumn Issue

Contents

10

SHOOTING FOR THE STARS

14

HOTTEST OPENINGS

16

IT'S TIME TO FALL IN LOVE..

22

HOLY MACKEREL

26

PLANT-BASED POWERHOUSE

33

HIDDEN VEGGIES

41

THE BORIS JOHNSON

50

SEA FOR YOURSELF

56

OUTLETS

58

HOT STUFF

6

Italians do it better.

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MALTA’S DIGITAL ECONOMY

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INTERVIEW

Elsa Messi

Shooting for the

STARS ELSA MESSI INTERVIEWS VICTOR BORG, EXECUTIVE CHEF AT ROSSELLI'S GRAIN STREET RESTAURANT AND THE MICHELIN-STARRED UNDER GRAIN. Just five months after opening, Under Grain was awarded a Michelin Star. Such stellar things do not happen easily or often. How did you get to where you are?

It all started when I was just 15. I attended ITS and received a Diploma in Food and Beverage. After that, I never looked back. I worked at a five-star hotel in Switzerland then joined Gordon Ramsay in his very first restaurant when he had just won his second Michelin star. A stint in Norway at a two-Michelin star restaurant, the Bagatelle, followed. I fell in love with food, with the world of food and the pursuit of excellence.

Even as a teenager I hoped that one day I'd run a restaurant that would win a Michelin star.

10

During all this, I also participated in competitions run by the World Association of Chefs' Society, which pits together international culinary stars. It's like competing, in football, for a place in the World Cup or Champions League. I opened the Mange Tout restaurant when I was 25.

There we managed to bag the award for the best restaurant in Malta for seven consecutive years. After my restaurant experience, I was asked to join the Hotel Phoenicia as Executive Chef.

You now have established yourself at Under Grain. Did you ever dream of getting a Michelin star so quickly?

You dream of such stuff, but you hardly think you'll ever come close.

I knew we had the potential, but in such a short time, it did sound farfetched. But we did it thanks to what my team and I have built.

What caught the Michelin inspectors' attention?

Definitely, the food. Yet the whole dining experience is essential. It's all about consistency and attention to detail in whatever you do. It's a mix of the service, the ambience, and the way clients are greeted: all this adds more magic to the gastronomic delights.

Any favourite ingredients or produce to cook with?

Onions, butter, oil. I love onions, all sorts. Using only top-quality butter and extra virgin olive oil makes a real difference to the taste.

Favourite meat?

Tough one as I'm a real meat lover. But if pushed, I'd have to choose two: beef and veal.

Beyond your workplace, who are the upcoming local chefs to look out for?

Daniel Vella McIntyre, former head chef at Commando. He's an up-andcoming guy. And James Schiavone from Tartarun.

Do you have a favourite restaurant in Malta?

It depends on my mood. If I want fish, it must be Tartarun in Marsaxlokk. For an ethnic twist, it's Ali Baba in Gżira. Hani, the chefpatron is doing a good job, and I'd say he too will soon be recognised by Michelin. For fine dining, I'd choose Amami.

If you were to have your last meal on earth, where would it be?

L'Astrance in Paris. When I dined there, it was a three-star Michelin restaurant, and the food was superb. If my last meal were in London, I'd choose The Ledbury. The fact that I've been there about seven times must mean something. Very fitting for a send-off in style.

“You dream of such stuff, but you hardly think you'll ever come close…”

11

F E AT U R E

The

Foodist

Around the world in plates

Elsa Messi

ELSA MESSI OUTLINES A NUMBER OF PLACES SELLING ETHNIC FOOD IN MALTA. IF YOU WANT TO TRY SOMETHING NEW OR ARE ON THE HUNT FOR CUISINES FROM ACROSS THE WORLD THAT YOU PROBABLY DIDN'T KNOW EXISTED, THEN CHECK OUT THIS LIST THAT SHOWCASES DISHES FROM DIFFERENT PARTS OF THE WORLD. The Philippines - Pinoy Street Food Filipino cuisine is exceptionally varied, and it's a shame that it's the lesser-known of all the cuisines in Asian countries. Pinoy serves authentic dishes from different regions of the Philippines. Siopao (chicken-filled steam dumplings), beef Mami (ramen style beef noodle soup), bulalo (slow-cooked beef osso bucco broth soup), pusit (squid in oyster sauce), rice bowls and fully-loaded noodles, are some of the popular dishes that will make you a repeat customer-not forgetting the chicken adobo - the nation's staple dish. For the more adventurous, try delicacies such as chicken feet, sisig (pigs head prepped four ways), and a stew made from pig's blood.

Is-Suq tal-Belt - Valletta

West Africa - Emmanuel Real Arifca Food

12 12

If you are looking to discover (or crave) proper no-fuss African food, then this joint is your best (and only) bet. But what kind of African food exactly? Emmanuel mostly specialises in dishes that are popular in West Africa, and they do it well. Hearty portions of soul-warming peanut butter soup, jollof rice, waakye (Ghanian cooked rice and beans) and fufu await you.

54, High street, Hamrun

Korea - Doma Squid and kimchi pancake, jjamppong (Korean style noodles), various bibimbap (one of Korea's national dishes which are rice bowls), gimbap (Korean sushi) and bulgogi, are just some of the traditional fare you will find at Doma. Korean dishes are packed with flavours that pack a punch if you haven't tried the cuisine before, now is your chance.

Triq Parisio, Sliema

Japan - Kyoto Japanese Bakery Malta's very first Japanese bakery recently opened, and it is exceptionally authentic. The quaint eatery will serve popular baked goods such as melon bread of all colours and flavours (a traditional sweet bread covered in a thin layer of crisp biscuit/ cookie) and curry bread (Japanese curry wrapped in a piece of dough, which is then coated in breadcrumbs and deep-fried).

15, Ghar il Lembi Street, Sliema

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Millions of products sold using over 160 carefully selected raw produce from Piemonte to all over Italy.

Our family has always been distinguished by the ability to prepare, with the best ingredients, products that conquer every table. It is thanks to our constant commitment, experience and knowing how to anticipate new trends that this tradition that has been renewed every day for generations. In our 2 innovative and certified factories, we produce over 160 products, using only fresh vegetables, legumes, cereals and Italian extra virgin olive oil, because our mission is to bring good, tasty, simple and healthy products to tables all over the world.

Available at

13

F E AT U R E

Hottest Openings

MYKONOS

Mykonos, run by Keith Seychell of Capo Crudo, brings together Greek influences and Italian plates under one roof. You'll find dishes which represent Greek cuisine such as moussaka, kalamari tis skaras (grilled calamari), gyros with pulled pork. However, there is a long pizza menu prepared by a world champion pizzaiolo, Luciano Carciotto.

Xatt ir-Rizq, Bormla, Cospicua

ELSA MESSI’S PICK OF THE HOTTEST OPENINGS IN TOWN. Often, readers, friends and family have one question: where should i eat right now? Restaurant obsessives want to know what's new, what's hot, which favourite chef just launched their follow-up effort: the "it" places of the moment. So here, let me present to you the best new — and newish — restaurants across the island.

BRIJU

SPOTLIGHT

Farm-to-fork eating and sustainability are the core of what Briju is all about. Chef patron Rafel Sammut is the pioneer of supporting local farmers and toying with seasonal ingredients. Not only is this hugely beneficial to the environment, but food that travels minimal distance also tastes fresher and more flavoursome.

Briju deserves all the hype it gets because the exemplary dishes are consistently spot-on, humble and honest. It truly raises the flag for local produce. Starters such as an earthy chicken liver parfait (set on a red onion marmalade topped with guanciale) and a tower of raw tuna (mixed with pickled cucumbers and homemade tzatziki) flirt with the palate.

AKI RESTAURANT

BARBAJEAN

HAMMETT'S MESTIZO

THE SEAFOOD BAR & GRILL

A trendy Japanese restaurant and lounge bar in Valletta's Strait Street. It is undoubtedly a place for date night or that special occasion.

Expect colourful plates made for sharing such as grilled octopus on skewers, tiger prawns and meats from the Robata section. Rice paper spring rolls, lobster gyoza and bao buns from the Izakaya section are not to be missed, as are mini tacos and tons of new style sushi. If you like it raw, the cured and seared part of the menu has delights like tuna tiradito, beef tataki and sea bream ceviche. They also serve killer cocktails that Willy Wonka would approve.

Corner of Strait Street and Santa Lucia Street, Valletta

One of the most exciting restaurant debuts of the year and deservingly so. Expect to be dazzled by the impeccable interior design as soon as you walk through the front door adorned with dark greens, pinks and neon lights. The menu consists of nicely-plated dishes such as a scotch egg with Maltese sausage, hand filleted cured sardines with thyme and pickled onion, soft shell crab bao buns, risotto with pan-roasted scallops, tarragon oil and preserved lemon, and braised beef cheeks with creamed celeriac and mushroom fricassee.

A neighbourhood restaurant as pleasing to the eye as it is the palate.

No 6, Misrah Frenc Abela c/w, Triq il-Parroċċa, Dingli

The pasta here (made by hand) is not to be missed. Whether you're ordering glorious parcels of agnolotti (stuffed with beef filling, cream of pecorino, pickled mushrooms, herb oil and nutmeg), or a pumpkin ravjul (with pumpkin jus, amaretto, sage butter and local pecorino), you will not be disappointed.

Never one to order pork on a menu, but the pork flank is different than any other pork dish I've seen. The tender meat showcases different tones of pinks and is upgraded with rosemary, honey and lemon. There is a reason why Briju was recommended by Michelin so early on (within a year of opening).

14

The brainchild of Hammett's Gastrobar in Sliema, and Hammett's Macina in Senglea, have decided to bring some Latin flavours to Malta. Opened in October, Hammett's Mestizo specialises in Meso-South American cuisine with influences from Central America to the Caribbean and from the Andes to Amazon and Patagonia. The eatery is part of the Number 11 Urban Hotel.

Triq Schreiber, St Julian’s

When one of the best fishmongers and seafood suppliers announces that he's opening a restaurant, you'd better listen. The Seafood Market Grill by Adam's fish shop is already making waves due to its fantastic menu and concept. A plethora of different oysters, huge seafood platters, delectable tartare, creative carpaccios and battered prawns, are just some of the things you will want to wrap your lips around. It is also a standout place because of its market-style feel which gives you the option to pick your fish from the counter, choose the weight, and how you want it cooked!

Msida Road, Gzira

CULTIVATING THE PASSION OF

EATING WELL

CULTIVATING THE PASSION OF

EATING WELL

Using the best local ingredients, wisely selected and hand-picked, carry genuineness, Using the best ingredients, wisely selected carry perfumes and local organoleptic properties typical and of ahand-picked, land kissed by seagenuineness, and sun. perfumes and organoleptic properties typical of a land kissed by sea and sun.

RECIPE

Nick Diacono

It's time to FALL in love..

AS THE WEATHER STARTS TO GET COLDER, AND THE ‘CRAZY SUMMER SWEAT’ STARTS TO EASE, NICK DIACONO PREPARES AN AUTUMNAL FEAST OF FLAVOURSOME DISHES THAT YOU WILL SURELY FALL FOR! 16

All ingredients available at PARK TOWERS SUPERMARKETS Photography by Chris Sant Fournier

Roast quail with roasted mushrooms, parsnips, sweet potatoes & fennel SERVES

4

YOU WILL NEED:Â 4 whole bone-in quails 2 medium-sized sweet potatoes 2 medium-sized bulbs fennel 2 small red onions 3 cloves garlic 4 medium-sized parsnips 1 pomegranate 4 tbsp aged balsamico di Modena 50g butter 50g flour 50g butter Olive oil Thyme 50g butter 50g flour Splash of red wine Salt & pepper

METHOD:

Rub seasoning and thyme and some oil into quail skin and cavity, place in a snugly fit container or zip lock bag along with the red wine and leave to marinate overnight. Preheat oven to 200 centigrade. Cut fennel, sweet potato, parsnip into medium dice.

Chop onion and garlic not too small and add to mix, season well and toss with olive oil and more thyme. Roast in oven until golden brown takes about 90 mins depends on your oven. Add small whole cleaned button mushrooms to the roasting tray for final 30 mins of cooking. Remove quail from marinade and pat dry using a paper towel, toss liberally in flour. Heat a cast-iron pan with some canola oil and cook the quail over high heat until golden brown, add a knob of butter three minutes into the cooking. Finish off quails in the oven over the roasting vegetables, after browning in a pan they will take 8-10 mins to cook in the oven. Crack open a pomegranate. Serve the quail over a roast vegetable mix, dress with pomegranate seeds and aged balsamic.

17

RECIPE

Cervjol tails with tartare sauce  S E R V E S 4 YOU WILL NEED: 4 small local baby Amberjack (cervjol) 100 ml canola oil 200g mayo 1 tbsp. red onion chopped 2 tsp pickles chopped 1 tsp capers chopped 1 tsp chopped dill 1 tsp chopped parsley 2 hits tabasco Juice of 1 lemon Sea salt & pepper

METHOD:

18

Mix chopped ingredients with mayo, lemon juice, tabasco and some seasoning and leave to develop in the fridge. Clean the fish and cut through entire fish from the belly to tail. Season the flour with salt pepper and coat fish well. Shallow fry in cast iron pan until skin is crispy and fish cooked. Serve with tartar sauce.

Buttermilk fried chicken gizzards SERVES

3

YOU WILL NEED:Â 500g gizzards 500g flour 1 ltr chicken stock 1 bay leaf 600ml buttermilk (store-bought) 2 tsp sweet paprika 2 tsp black pepper 200g Mayo 1 tsp red miso Juice of half a lemon Salt & pepper

METHOD:

Wash the gizzards and place in a pot, cover with chicken stock, add bay leaf and bring to a boil. Turn to a gentle simmer and cook for one and a half hours. Remove from water and cool under running cold water, mix buttermilk with paprika and some seasoning. Submerge gizzards in buttermilk and leave to marinate overnight. Prepare a pot with canola oil for deep frying - mix flour with some seasoning and paprika. Coat gizzards in the flour well shaking any excess. Once the oil reaches 190/200 cook in small batches until crispy. Mix mayo with lemon juice and miso well. Check gizzards for final seasoning serve with mayo.

19

RECIPE

Gozitan asparagus with house cured bottarga tal-Kubrita SERVES

4

YOU WILL NEED:Â A fingers width of bottarga 2 bunches asparagus 50g butter 2 tsp toasted sesame seeds 100g crushed walnuts Zest of 1 lemon Fresh cracked black pepper Olive oil

METHOD:

20

Prepare a cast iron pan and heat a few tablespoons of olive oil. Snap off the rigid woody bottom part of the asparagus. Add asparagus to the hot pan and cook whilst moving around spears for about 5 minutes. Add butter, crushed walnuts & seasoning, cook until al dente and golden brown.

Garnish with grated bottarga, lemon zest and sesame seeds.

RECIPE

Holy Mackerel!

Victor Paul Borg

OPPOSED TO THE PAST, THESE DAYS’ MACKEREL ISN’T USED SO MUCH IN OUR DAILY MEALS. CHEF STEPHEN LA ROSA COOKS UP SOME FLAVOURSOME RECIPES THAT WILL GET YOU ALL NOSTALGIC TO TRY WHILE VICTOR PAUL BORG WRITES ON HOW POPULAR MACKEREL DISHES WERE IN THE NOT SO DISTANT PAST. It's hard to tell why mackerel fell out of favour with consumers given its abundance, affordability, and the character of the fish on the palate. People of middle-age or beyond remember a time when it was ubiquitous in kitchens, but at some point, it is said, fishing for swordfish expanded at the cost of mackerel fishing. Yet the two are incomparable – swordfish flesh might have a flakier consistency, but mackerel flesh has more character.

"It's a strong flavoured fish with a lot of fat content," says Stephen La Rosa, the experienced and accomplished chef who prepared the recipes below. "The key to preparing a mackerel dish is to opt for a side-dish that does not overpower the fish's flavour."

22

Mackerel is mostly caught by a technique called tal-lampara – literally, lighting a strong gas-powered lamp over the water at night and then rounding up the mackerel that converges underneath the light in a purse-seine net.

At one point mackerel fell out of popularity to the point where tal-lampara fishery almost died down. The tuna farms eventually saved the fishery: they began to snap up as much mackerel as they could their hands onto to feed it to the tuna in the fattening cages. The mackerel fishery has since expanded. The fishermen, however, would rather sell the catch to consumers given the low price they get from fish farms.

Yet, demand from consumers remains weak, which is somehow ironic given the popularity of other aquatic species whose meat is like mackerel that are sold frozen in supermarkets.

Of course, fresh mackerel is much heartier and fresher, and just as inexpensive too. The fish is available virtually all year round at fishmongers and some supermarkets, although it tends to be more abundant in spring and summer – that's the main fishing season.

In the recipes below, La Rosa paired the mackerel with summery or autumn salads.

The salads in the dishes below can work well even as winter sets in, although some ingredients might then lose some of their flavours, especially cherry tomatoes. La Rosa says that substitute side-dishes could be roasted beetroots or carrot served with light vinaigrette (lemon juice, olive oil, herbs such as mint or chives), or just rocket with a vinaigrette, or even caponata.

"The key is not to overpower the flavour of the mackerel, but to have something that would complement it – you need a decent amount of acidity"

Stephen la Rosa spent years of cooking in Michelin-starred restaurants across New York, San Francisco and London.

He then returned to Malta to lead a team of chefs to launch and run a local culinary academy. He now has dedicated his time to inspire aspiring cooks to love their time in the kitchen by learning chef-level techniques that will transform their cooking. If you're interested in levelling up your cooking, check out www.stephenlarosa.com

Whole Roast Mackerel with a Tomato, Cucumber & Agretti Salad SERVES

2

YOU WILL NEED: One mackerel of roughly 400g per person, innards removed and cleaned Roughly 500g of ripe different tomatoes (a mix of beefsteak, cherry, and plum tomatoes will work well), chopped 1.medium-sized cucumber sliced 2.spring onions, sliced 1 small green chilli, seeds removed and finely minced 1 small bunch of agretti to taste (agretti is available at fishmongers; you can also alternatively substitute with basil) Salt, pepper, lemon juice and extra virgin olive oil to taste

METHOD:

In a bowl combine the tomatoes, the sliced cucumber, thinly sliced spring onions and the minced green chilli. Season these lightly with salt and place into a strainer set over a bowl. This will allow the tomatoes and cucumber to firm up and drain out some of their excess liquid. In the meantime, ensure the mackerel are dried out well with paper towel both on the skin and in the belly opening. Add salt and place on a baking tray lined with baking paper — season well with olive oil. Place into an oven preheated to 180C and bake for 12-15 minutes depending on the size of the mackerel. To tell if the fish is cooked, pull on its dorsal fin (the fin on the back of its spine), and if it comes out clean, it means your fish is cooked. Remove from the oven. Remove your vegetables from the strainer and combine into an empty mixing bowl with picked leaves of agretti or basil and olive oil, salt and lemon juice to taste.

Serve the roast mackerel over the tomato salad.

23

RECIPE

METHOD:

Sautéed Mackerel with Caramelised Fennel, Butter Beans & Black Olives SERVES

2

YOU WILL NEED: Mackerel fillets from 2 fish 1 bulb of fennel, sliced 1 green pepper, sliced

Begin by slicing your vegetables and setting them aside, removing the pin bones from the mackerel if they haven't been removed already and making sure the fillets remain well chilled in the fridge. Place a large sauté pan over medium-high heat and add two tablespoons of olive oil. Add the sliced green pepper, fennel and onion to the pan once it's hot and coat well in the oil — season well with salt. Cook, while occasionally stirring, for 10 minutes or until the onions and fennel are lightly caramelised, and the green pepper has softened. Add the sliced garlic to the pan and cook for 2 minutes while stirring. Once this is cooked, add the drained can of butter beans and the chopped black olives and stir into the vegetable mixture. Turn off the heat and season to taste with salt and lemon juice.

To cook the mackerel, place a non-stick or well-seasoned cast-iron pan onto the stove over medium-high heat. (If you have neither, cutting a sheet of baking paper to fit the inside of your pan is a fantastic way of creating a non-stick surface in any pan of yours, add a few drops of oil and place it on the surface of your pan and cook over it). Season the mackerel fillets well with salt.

Drizzle 2 tablespoons of olive oil into the pan and allow it to heat up for a minute or two. Place the fillets in the pan, avoiding overlap – if needed, cook in multiple batches or use multiple pans but do not overlap the fillets.

1.onion, sliced 2.cloves of garlic, sliced

24

2 tablespoons black olives, roughly chopped 2 sprigs of mint, leaves picked 1 can of butter beans or 250g cooked beans Extra virgin olive oil, salt and lemon juice to taste

Lightly press down on the fillets so that the skin touches the pan and allow to cook for 2 minutes or until half of the flesh has become white and opaque. At this point flip the fillets over and cook for no more than 30 seconds before removing them from the pan onto some absorbent paper towel. The bean salad can be served either hot or at room temperature, but the mackerel is best eaten as soon as it comes out of the pan.

RECIPE

Plant-based POWERHOUSE

Rachel Zammit Cutajar

More and more people are making the switch to a plant-based diet. Both health benefits and a reduced impact on the environment have been proven, making this the optimal time to make the switch.

Even if you can’t go completely vegan, ditch the animal foods for a couple of meals a week. Adding plenty of herbs and new ingredients like pickled lemons means you won’t have to compromise on flavour.

Rachel Zammit Cutajar shares a few recipes.

All ingredients available at PARK TOWERS SUPERMARKETS

>>

SERVES

ON TH G E V D E WI ROASTCOUSCOUS SPICY D LEMONS PICKLE 4

YOU WILL NEED: 1 aubergine, cut into large cubes

For the couscous dressing:

2 marrows, cut into large cubes

2 tsp coriander seeds

2 onions, cut into wedges

2 tsp cumin seeds

4 cloves garlic, peeled and left whole

2 tsp caraway seeds

4 cloves garlic, minced 1 tsp coriander seeds

26

1 tbsp. sweet paprika 1 tsp cinnamon

1 tsp cumin seeds

1 tsp chilli flakes (add more if you like it hot, less if you want it mild)

½ tsp chilli flakes

Salt and pepper

Salt and pepper

1 tbsp lemon zest

250g couscous

½ lemon, juice only

2 tbsp. black olives

4 cloves garlic, minced

Handful fresh coriander

1 tbsp. honey

Handful fresh dill

2 tbsp. tomato paste (kunserva)

2 spring onions

1 cup olive oil

Lemon pickles

METHOD:

Preheat the oven to 200°C. Make the chermoula dressing by toasting the coriander seeds, cumin seeds and caraway seeds in a pan, without oil, until fragrant – approximately for 2 minutes. Be careful not to let them burn as they will become bitter. Place the seeds in a pestle and mortar and crush them to release flavour. Add to a mixing bowl and add the paprika, cinnamon, chilli flakes, salt and pepper and mix well. Add the remaining ingredients and whisk together. If the paste is too dry, add a little more olive oil. Place the aubergine, marrows onion and whole garlic cloves in a large roasting tin, trying to get the vegetables as close to a single layer as possible.

Sprinkle the minced garlic on top. Add the coriander and cumin seeds and chilli flakes, if using, and season with salt and pepper. Add a good lug of olive oil and mix with your hands, making sure all the vegetables are covered in oil and seasoning. Roast for approximately for an hour until the veg is tender and a little charred at the edges.

Remove from the oven and allow to cool a little.

Place the couscous in a bowl and cover with boiling water and a little bit of salt until completely covered and the water comes up about an inch above the couscous. Cover with a tea towel and leave for 5 minutes. Fluff with a fork and add 6 tablespoons of the dressing into the couscous and mix well. Place the couscous on plates and add the roasted vegetables on the top. Add the spring onion and herbs and top with pickled lemons. Serve warm or at room temperature.

>> 1

PICK LEMOLED NS

LARGE JAR

These pickles make a great addition to meat, fish, lentils or couscous dishes. They add a similar flavour as preserved lemons but don’t take nearly as long to make. In just 24 hours you can have the most addictive condiment you’ll ever try. Once you make these the first time, you’ll always need to have a jar in the fridge.

YOU WILL NEED: ½ red chilli, chopped 3 tbsp lemon juice 3 small unwaxed lemons, halved lengthways and sliced widthways as finely as possible 35g caster sugar ½ tbsp sea salt 1 garlic clove, minced 1 tsp sweet paprika ¼ tsp ground cumin ½ tsp ground turmeric

METHOD:

Use a pestle and mortar to crush together the chilli with 1 tbsp lemon juice until you get a rough paste. Place in a large mixing bowl with the remaining ingredients. Use your hands to mix everything, making sure all the lemons are covered with the spicy mixture. Cover and leave at room temperature overnight. Place in sterilised jars. These will last in the fridge for up to two weeks.

27

RECIPE

28

>> SERVES

I BEANS IN L L E N N A C ERS, MINT WITH CAPSTED CHERRY AND ROA S TOMATOE

2

This recipe is perfect when you have a bunch of tomatoes that have been in the fridge just a little too long. Roasting them brings out their sweetness which pairs well with the garlicky beans. And don’t forget the bread!

YOU WILL NEED: 400g tin cannellini beans

For the dressing:

3 tbsp capers

1 tsp Dijon mustard

500g cherry tomatoes (on the vine)

2 tbsp white wine vinegar

1 tbsp honey Salt and pepper Large handful mint or basil

Salt and pepper 7 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil 1 red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped 1 clove garlic, minced 1 lemon, juice and zest Handful parsley, finely chopped

METHOD:

Make the dressing by whisking all the ingredients together. Mix the beans with the capers and add the dressing. Mix well and leave them to marinate for at least 30 minutes, up to 4 hours. Preheat the oven to 200°C. Place the cherry tomatoes on a baking tray lined with baking paper. Drizzle with honey and a good lug of olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Roast in the oven for 15 minutes until the tomatoes start to burst open but still hold their shape. Place the cannellini beans on a serving plate and place the roasted tomatoes (still on the vine) on top. Tear the mint or basil leaves and place on top. Serve with lots of crusty Maltese bread.

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RECIPE

30

>> SERVES

ROASTE WITH A D CARROTS LENTILS PPLE AND

4

Lentils are a great source of plant protein. Paired with the sweetness of the apples and the acid of the lemon juice, these make the perfect summer lunch. And what’s even better is that you can make them before and serve at room temperature.

YOU WILL NEED: 350g young carrots (different colours if you can find them) 1 tbsp. honey 250g puy lentils 1 bay leaf 2 green apples 1 red chilli, deseeded and chopped 1 lemon, juice and zest Large handful mint Large handful coriander

For the dressing: 2 tbsp apple cider vinegar 1 clove garlic, minced 1cm ginger, minced 1 tbsp honey 6 tbsp extra virgin olive oil Salt and pepper

METHOD:

Preheat the oven to 200°C. Place the carrots on a baking tray in a single layer and drizzle with honey. Season with salt and pepper and add a good lug of olive oil.

Roast in the oven for 30-35 minutes. Rinse the lentil in a sieve under cold running water. Place in a saucepan with four cups of water for every cup of lentils. Add the bay leaf and some salt and bring to the boil. Allow to cook for 25-30 minutes until the lentils are tender but not mushy. Remove the bay leaf and mix well, draining any remaining water. Make the dressing by placing all the ingredients in a jar. Close the lid and shake well. Set aside. Cut the green apples into matchsticks. Mix the cooked lentils, green apples, chilli, lemon zest and lemon juice and the prepared dressing. Mix well and place in serving plates. Add the warm carrots to the plates and serve warm or at room temperature.

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Every day a dreamy espresso

It only takes an Pellini espresso to turn every coffee break into a unique and distinctive moment. What makes Pellini special? Authenticity and passion: this is how all the Pellini blends are created, an entire selection dedicated to the professional barista and now also available for domestic consumption. Make the experience of a daily ritual unique and distinctive.

RECIPE

Kristina Cassar Dowling

Hidden

Veggies We all know that fruit and vegetables should make up the majority of our diet, but with all the other vital food groups incorporated into our weekly menus; it’s sometimes hard to get your seven a day. Kristina Cassar Dowling adapts everyday dishes to shine a spotlight on quickly transformed nutrient-packed veggies.

There are so many veggies to choose from, some which require quite a bit of attention and others that pack so much flavour and freshness that they’re ready to eat straight out of our glorious local soil. Vegetables have quite a bad rep with kids and adults alike. Still, the classic “eat your broccoli” threat at dinner time will never need to be uttered again with creative recipes that mask the unrelatable vegetables and turn them into the superheroes of the meal.

From zucchini fritters and broccoli base quiche to sweet or savoury butternut squash pancakes; your meal prep options will get more colourful, more nutritious and so much more creative. Take a look at these versatile recipes where veggies take centre stage.

All ingredients available at PARK TOWERS SUPERMARKETS

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RECIPE

Herby zucchini fritters with tabbouleh

Zucchini fritters are perfect for a light summer lunch by the pool; they’re also easily packed for a trip to the beach and last two days refrigerated in an airtight container.

Zucchini are packed with Vitamin C; the flu-fighting nutrient that can boost our immunity and can help to retain our memory as we age. Their versatility has given zucchini quite a popularity boost in recent years, replacing traditional spaghetti with on-trend zoodles and even replacing pasta sheets for a gluten-free lasagne option. Grating a zucchini with a regular cheese grater can transform this veggie into the lightest fritters with a little help from fresh herbs and feta cheese.

SERVES

4

YOU WILL NEED: For the fritters: 4 organic zucchini 1 free-range egg 1 block of organic feta cheese, crumbled 2 tbsp. fresh mint, chiffonade 2 tbsp. fresh chives, finely chopped 2 tbsp. fresh coriander, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped Ground pink Himalayan salt to season Fresh ground pepper to season 1-2 tbsp. organic whole wheat flour to bind Cooking oil for pan-frying (coconut oil, olive oil or rapeseed oil)

For topping: ½ cup 0% fat plain Greek yoghurt 2 tbsp. fresh basil, chiffonade Ground pink Himalayan salt to season Fresh ground pepper to season

For the tabbouleh: ½ cup bulgur wheat 1 cup organic grape tomatoes, diced 1 cup organic cucumber, diced 1 tsp. ground pink Himalayan salt 3 bunches curly parsley, finely chopped ⅓ cup fresh mint, finely chopped ⅓ cup green onion, finely chopped

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⅓ cup extra virgin olive oil 3-4 tbsp. lemon juice 1tbsp. lemon zest 1 garlic clove, minced 1 tsp. red chili flakes

METHOD:

Line a large mixing bowl with a muslin cloth or a clean tea towel and grate the zucchini directly onto the cloth. Ring the zucchini in the cloth and empty the water from the bowl. Add the grated zucchini back into the bowl crumble feta cheese and add the fresh herbs. Lightly beat the egg and add some salt and pepper; add to the bowl and mix gently until everything is incorporated smoothly. Add flour to thicken the mixture, 1 teaspoon at a time.

Eco-Tip: freeze the drained zucchini water for a veggie stock base; this will add key nutrients to your next dish.

Divide the mixture to create 3-4 fritters per person.

Roll into balls, lay on a silicon mat, cover and allow to rest in the fridge while the tabbouleh is prepared.

Tabbouleh is fresh and fragrant and features whole grain cracked wheat called bulgur - it’s also parboiled. Soak the bulgur or boil it gently until tender. Use a food processor to gently pulse the parsley, mint and coriander until they are finely chopped. Do not overwork the herbs, as a pesto will quickly start to form. Add the chopped herbs into a large bowl; add the diced grape tomatoes and cucumber, the chopped green onion, olive oil, salt, pepper and mix.

Once the bulgur wheat is tender, drain well and add olive oil, lemon juice and zest, chili, garlic and season with salt and pepper. Gently fold in the herb mixture and set aside.

Remove the fritters from the fridge, heat up a large sauté pan, add some cooking oil and gently place the zucchini balls on the pan. Once they brown on one side, gently flip them over and softly press down on the browned side to form a fritter. Allow the base to cook and flip for a final browning on the topside. Repeat as necessary.

While the last batch of fritters cook, mix yoghurt in a small bowl; add the fresh basil and season to taste. Plate the fritters, top with Greek yoghurt dressing and a side of fresh tabbouleh.

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RECIPE

36

Sweet and Savoury Butternut Squash Pancakes

Butternut squash; fantastic in vegetarian tikka masala, perfect for a veggie katsu curry and strangely, the perfect ingredient for a healthier pancake option. Butternut squash pancakes can be enjoyed as a sweet or savoury dish. The natural sweetness of the squash pairs a lot with Greek yoghurt and berry compote and even a warm apple and cinnamon puree topped with roasted pecan but the most surprising result is in its savoury preparation.

SERVES

4

YOU WILL NEED: For the pancakes: 1 cup roasted organic butternut squash 2 free-range eggs 1½ tsp. baking powder ⅓ cup organic whole wheat flour 1 tbsp. coconut oil

For sweet pancakes add 1 tsp. vanilla extract and 1 tsp. cinnamon powder.

For the savoury topping: Cream cheese spread (as much or as little as you like) 3-4 Maltese rocket leaves 1 free-range egg 1 tbsp. fresh chives ½ peppered Maltese cheeselet, grated

For the sweet topping: 1 cup ricotta ½ orange, zested and segmented ½ orange, juiced ½ cup pistachios, crushed 1 cinnamon stick ½ tsp. cinnamon

METHOD:

Combine squash and eggs in a small bowl and mix until smooth. If you’re planning on making a sweet pancake add vanilla and cinnamon into the bowl too. Add baking powder and stir in well. Heat a non-stick frying pan, lightly brush the pan with coconut oil, allow some time for the oil to heat and scoop a ladle of batter onto the pan to form a circular shape. Flip the pancake when bubbles start to appear and allow the base to cook. The texture should be fluffy and smooth, with a light crisp on the outside.

For the savoury topping, schmear some cream cheese on the top of the pancake. Rip cleaned and dried rocket leaves and lay on top of the cream cheese. Top the butternut squash pancake with a sunny side up egg, garnish with grated peppered cheeselet and chives.

For the sweet topping, heat a mini frying pan and add the orange juice and cinnamon stick, allow it to reduce slightly on a high flame, add the crushed pistachios and cook on reduced heat until the nuts are slightly caramelised.

Remove from heat and allow to cool. Lightly dust segmented oranges with cinnamon. In a small bowl, mix the ricotta with orange zest.

Top the butternut squash pancake with the ricotta mixture and garnish with segmented oranges and orange caramelised pistachios.

Eco-tip: add the juiced orange peel to a jar of white vinegar for a zero-chemical surface cleaner.

No more nasties near your food.

37

RECIPE

Broccoli Base Quiche with Asparagus, Mushrooms and Stilton

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Quiche is such a quick and easy crowd-pleaser; it’s comforting, not too heavy and the ultimate transportable meal to take on a picnic, to a potluck or even as a packed lunch option for kids and work-goers. The only downside to quiche is the substantial gluten base. Gluten tends to make us sleepier and weigh us down, so while quiche seems like the perfect lunch, swapping the wheat base with a broccoli base could quickly solve all of the problems.

SERVES

4

YOU WILL NEED:

For the filling:

For the dressing:

For the quiche base:

4 free-range eggs, whisked

2 tsp. Dijon mustard

1 organic broccoli head

¼ cup fresh milk

4 tbs. olive oil

1 free-range egg

8 fresh organic asparagus stems, trimmed

1 tsp. balsamic vinegar

1 Maltese cheeselet, grated 1 tsp. oregano 2-3 tbsp. organic whole wheat flour 2 tsp. ground pink Himalayan salt 1 tsp. fresh ground pepper 1 tsp. coconut oil, to grease quiche dish

2 organic white mushrooms caps 100 g Stilton 1 tsp. whole grain mustard 1 tsp. fresh ground pepper

For the side salad: 1 head of organic iceberg lettuce, roughly ripped ½ red onion, finely sliced, 8 organic radish heads, thinly sliced ½ Maltese cheselet, grated

¼ tsp. fresh ground black pepper ¼ tsp. ground pink Himalayan salt

METHOD:

Boil the broccoli until tender, drain and place in a food processor. Do not allow the broccoli to overcook; the base will turn out pretty pasty and will take much longer to crisp up. Pulse the broccoli until you create broccoli rice; tip the contents into a large bowl lined with a clean tea towel or muslin cloth and ring out as much water as possible.

Add the broccoli mixture to a large bowl and combine with egg, Maltese cheeselet, oregano, pepper and salt until a paste is formed. Gradually add flour to form a loose dough. Brush coconut oil onto the quiche dish, including the sides, put broccoli dough into the dish and gently form a base with the mixture, cover the sides of the tray and bind bake for 15-20 minutes or until crispy.

Allow the broccoli quiche base to rest for 5-10 minutes. In the meantime, whisk the eggs, milk, whole grain mustard and pepper together in a large bowl. Add the mixture to the quiche base and place asparagus stems on top of the egg mixture, creating portions with every stem as an indicator. Add Stilton and mushrooms into every segment equally for the perfect bite with every portion.

Eco-Tip: freeze broccoli water, asparagus and mushroom stem for your next veggie stock. Bonus, no-waste nutrients.

Bake uncovered for about 30-45 minutes or until eggs are cooked through but slightly on the loose side - this will make for a creamier filling. Asparagus should be lightly browned and Stilton smooth and satisfying. Allow resting for 5-10 minutes, gently remove from the dish and slice into portions. Serve with a simple salad of iceberg lettuce, radish, red onion and a Dijon vinaigrette.

The best way to enjoy veggies is by making favourites like fritters that can easily be slipped between two burger buns and served with home-cooked French fries for a new family favourite. A Saturday morning breakfast with healthier pancakes as the star or even a versatile quiche base that could be filled with a wide variety of veggies, cheeses and other flavour-packed ingredients.

Incorporating vegetables into your and your family’s weekly menu doesn’t have to be a struggle. Get creative, try out these healthy and satisfying recipes and experiment with your own. Veggies will work with you if you give them a chance - so give your vegetable some love this summer.

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From seed, to vine, to you.

Così Com’è is a range of top Italian

The Freshly Packaged range is

quality products harvested and

packed straight out of the fields,

picked by hand, and made from

in order to keep the fragrance and

the best variety of small tomatoes:

sweetness of fresh tomatoes.

Yellow Datterino, Red Datterino and Pizzutello.

RECIPE

Claude Camilleri

CHEF PATRON CLAUDE CAMILLERI AT MARGO’S SHARES SOME RECIPES OF HIS, INCLUDING A ZERO-CALORIE RECIPE IN RESPONSE TO A JIBE MADE BY UK PM BORIS JOHNSON ON MALTA AND ITS OBESITY RATE. Picture this.

Forty-five centigrade, in the shade, in the middle of the afternoon on a typical August day in Malta. You have friends and family around for a late dinner, and you've been slaving over a stove since the morning. You still must start the oven and cook this and that. So many last-minute things still need to be done.

They expect me to fumble through my inner self and find a sadistic bone to guide you through a three-course dinner for the middle of summer to prepare for your guests. Forget it. It is cruel to slave over a hot stove at the best of times, let alone on a hot summer day.

egg, for example, has minus seven calories. I am not impressed when I see these bodybuilders consuming twenty-four raw eggs from a pint glass, gulping it down in one go.

Oh, if you cannot make the connection between zero calories, Maltese and Boris Johnson, then you should get out more often. Everything in this menu could be prepared or even done well in advance, one day, two days, three days, four days except for the tuna.

Since I said no cooking, then I am also going to cheat. Let us be realistic; I am not going to ask you to make jelly from scratch. Cheat. I am not going to tell you to make a sponge from scratch. Just cheat and buy it readymade. If you feel brave, make it yourself. It is easy.

So, ladies and gentlemen, I give you the most fantastic meal for a summer's day – I call it the Boris Johnson Dinner. No cooking, minimal preparation and the only last-minute thing you must do is the plating.

And even that is, as we say in the trade, piss easy.

We are using only seasonal ingredients. Feel free to modify and change things. Here is your chance to shine. Use this as an inspiration, a guide, a template to create your version.

Why do I call it the Boris Johnson Dinner? Because metabolically it has zero calories. Stop rolling on the floor, laughing. This three-course dinner has zero calories. Yes, you read, right. Zero, zilch, nada, xejn calories.

If you think that your guests would not like to eat raw tuna, you can substitute this with beef. Pick a very cheap, lean and fresh piece of beef.

The cheaper it is, the tougher it is but, the more flavoursome it is.

Let me explain. Here and there you will find a bit of sugar, and that is the only source of calories. Yet that number of calories are countered by the negative calories from all the other raw ingredients. Let me give you an example. A hundred grams of cooked broccoli has 150 calories. If you puree them, they have even more calories. A raw piece of broccoli has negative calories. Minus fifty calories, for example. Why? Because the body requires more energy to digest a raw food product than it has. A raw

The ingredients are almost the same for both tartars’. Almost but not the same.

Love yourself and do not punish yourself in the heat of the summer.

This menu will make Boris jealous. Make sure you post pictures on social media.

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RECIPE

GAZPACHO Over the years, I have developed and evolved the Gazpacho recipe to give it a twist and make it more vulgar. Vulgar in the sense that it is more intense in flavours and wholly justifiable. People find the idea of a cold soup unappealing, yet this one simply reaches parts that other soups can never reach.

Our secret? Sun-dried tomatoes.

And make sure you make your own.

Making dried tomatoes is easy.

Put your oven on at about 80 degrees Celsius, cut tomatoes in half and let them dry in there for 24 hours until they are dry but not hard. They must have the consistency of a squashy banana, still with moisture in them but not completely dried up. You can do this process overnight over two or three days. Once the process is done, put the tomatoes in a container and store in the fridge.

Make full use of the oven when drying so fill it up with tomatoes and the ones you do not use put in a plastic bag in the freezer.

SERVES

4

YOU WILL NEED: 2 kg Roma tomatoes, peeled and deseeded 1 kg dried Roma tomatoes 3 celery sticks 1 chilli pepper 2 red peppers, peeled and cored 2 large red onions (do not use white or pale onions; their raw taste is not so pleasant and not as sweet as the red onions) 1 cucumber, peeled and cored

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A bunch of basil, mint and other herbs that you might have available. All the above ingredients can be modified and altered to your taste: seasoning, salt, more chilli and sugar.

METHOD: You would need a food processor/blender to achieve a smooth consistency. You do not have to blend everything at once if the blender is not big enough.

Once you put everything in a container, you can mix all the batches in the storage container. Peel the Roma tomatoes by blanching them for 10 seconds in boiling water and moving them into a cold bath. The skin comes off easily. Remove the seeds from the middle.

Blend the fresh tomatoes with the sundried tomatoes until you achieve a very smooth mixture. Add the chilli pepper, seeds and all, along with the celery and the onions (chop the onions to make light work of the blending). Add the cucumber and the red peppers.

The red peppers can be peeled easily by scorching on an open flame on a burner, holding the peppers on the fire with thongs or a long fork/skewer. Once black on the outside, rinse the scorched skin under running water. Core and add to the blender. Add the herbs — taste for seasoning. You need to check for spiciness, saltiness, flavour of ingredients and sourness. If you think that the soup is too sour, just add a tablespoon of sugar to temper the sourness.

Put everything in a container and store in the fridge.

Three days or more would bring the flavours together nicely. On the day, give the soup a little mix to blend the settled ingredients again, pour in a jug and plate.

Alternatively, let people pour their soup from a jug.

Note In the spirit of zero calories I would stop there, but drizzling some extra virgin olive oil (a good one and not a rubbish fake oil) on top and serving some old and toasted homemade bread with the soup is a meal in itself. Most evenings, I take a jar of the soup home with me, and I pour olive oil and toast some bread and sit there alone savouring the flavours. I'm sure I am fat because of this.

43

RECIPE

44

Tuna Tartare Fear not. Fear not the tuna and the rawness. Once you try raw, you never get bored.

Caveat though, not suitable for pregnant women, as a precaution more than anything else. This is the one thing that you need to do on the day. Maybe even the day before.

Add the ingredients to the tartare before the guests come. Plate once the guests get there. Have a side salad if you like, but this is a straightforward take on the classical tuna tartare. There is a little preparation to do (and a little bit of cooking), but really, this can be done a month in advance and left at the back of your fridge if you ever need it.

In this version of tuna tartare, instead of mixing all the ingredients, we let the diner choose what to add to the tartare from the selection that you provide for them. All we add to the tuna is a little bit of soy sauce and a little bit of sesame oil.

Do you want to be fast with plating? Once you blend the soya and the sesame oil to the tuna, place it in ring moulds in a tray lined with greaseproof paper in the fridge, covered with cling film. Once you are ready to serve, just take them out of the fridge, place them on the plate, remove the mould and just add the extra ingredients on the side.

The only thing that needs cooking is fresh ginger. Here we go. Get 200g of fresh ginger and rinse any impurities. You do not need to peel. Cut the ginger into thin slices, as thin as you can without destroying your fingers — place in a pot. Top the ginger with water plus another 2cms. Add 150g of sugar and simmer until the water almost evaporates and you are left with a light syrup. Cool down, place in a jar and leave in the fridge. That is all the cooking required.

SERVES

2

YOU WILL NEED: 2kgs of freshest tuna (8 people at 200g each and allowing for seconds and tasting while chopping the tuna) 8 tbsp. of light soy sauce 2 tbsp. of sesame oil 1 fresh chilli, finely chopped Cup of capers, rinsed, dried and chopped Cup of black olives finely chopped Cup of your sun-dried tomatoes leftover from the gazpacho, roughly chopped Caramelised ginger Fresh horseradish, grated Herbs to garnish (coriander or basil are ideal)

METHOD:

Chop all the side ingredients one by one well in advance. Capers washed, dried and chopped roughly; sundried tomatoes cut in manageable pieces; olives pipped and chopped; horseradish grated. Store them in different containers covered in cling film to use on the day.

Clean the tuna from any blood intense parts, those black and darker parts that do not taste so good.

Remove any cords and impurities. Feed them to the neighbour's cats. On the day, chop the tuna in little cubes, add the chilli, the soy and the sesame oil and let it sit in the fridge for a couple of hours, turning it around every 15 minutes or so. Prepare eight rings on a tray lined with greaseproof paper and place the tuna, pressing quite hard, in each ring. Cover with cling film and put back in the fridge. Done. All you must do is plate.

That was the second lot of zero calories.

45

RECIPE

Mediterranean Summer Pudding The British summer pudding is a fantastic dish; the tanginess of the berries with lashes of fresh cream or ice cream is so refreshing.

But that is old Blighty, and this is Malta. So, we get inspired, and we can come up with our version of this classic pudding. You can prepare this pudding a week before if you like.

Start with dessert for a very relaxing experience. Once you do the pudding, which is the fiddliest of all the courses, the other courses will be a breeze and fun to prepare.

What are we trying to achieve here? We will line a bowl with a sponge, fill that bowl lined with a sponge with fresh, seasonal local fruits chopped in little cubes, filling the bowl with a warm jelly and covering the bowl with a sponge lid. That is it. You then end up serving a sponge that when you break open is full of fruits. We will prepare a watermelon coulis to make it all look dramatic and taste amazing.

SERVES

4

YOU WILL NEED: 1 kg local organic pears 1 medium-sized melon 1 kg bambinella 1 kg local peaches Half a watermelon 2 packets of readily available jelly neutral colour – apricot, orange, lemon Half a bottle of sweet sherry Ready-made sponge cut in thin pieces to line pudding mould Sugar to balance coulis

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A tbsp. of agar-agar to thicken the coulis

One of the most challenging parts of this dessert is what to use to make it. We have these semi spherical bowls that we use for this recipe. If you do not mind the shape having some hard lines, one can use disposable foil containers that are deep enough to fill with the fruit. Old teacups work well.

But really, tin foil containers of 300ml volume will do.

Preparing the moulds: Wet the moulds with some water and line the moulds with cling film, allowing for a 50% overlap. This can be fiddly. The water acts as a lubricant between the container and the cling film. Gently press the cling film to stick to the moulds. Pressing with a wet tissue is very useful.

METHOD:

Prepare the coulis by peeling and deseeding the watermelon and running it through a blender. Put the liquid in a pot and taste for sweetness. If you need to add sweetness, which you generally do for a watermelon, add it now. Heat the liquid and add when the coulis is about to boil, add the agar-agar, stir until it dissolves, cool it down and leave in the fridge for plating on the day of the dinner. Prepare the fruit. Peel the melon and cut it into small 1cm cubes; do the same with the bambinella (no need to peel it, you can cut it in quarters once you remove the pips). When it comes to the peaches, blanch them for a few seconds in boiling water and then cool them in an ice bath.

You will be able to peel the peaches just like tomatoes. Once peeled, chop them up along with the rest of the fruits, including the pears. Mix everything in a bowl.

Now, line the moulds with the sponge - bottom and sides. Fill the moulds with fruit. Do not press too hard. Leave some space to put a

sponge on top to close the pudding, in a pot follow the instructions for preparing the jelly. If one packet of jelly asks for half a litre of water, prepare both packets together with the half litre of water. Once the jelly melts, take it off the heat, let it cool a bit and add the missing volume of liquid not with water but with sherry. Pour this liquid in the moulds.

Let it go down to the bottom and keep on topping up the moulds until the liquid fills all the crevices between the fruit; line the top of these moulds with more sponge. Using a tablespoon pour more of the jelly liquid to soak the sponge. Once this is done, fold over the overlaying cling film to seal the pudding, left fold-over, right fold-over, top fold over and bottom fold over. Leave them in the fridge until dinner.

To serve, unfold the cling film, turn upside down in a plate, remove the mould and remove the cling film. Using a jar, pour the watermelon coulis around the dessert to just barely cover the plate.

Boris will be a happy bunny.

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PROMO

Made by craftsmen using rough-edged bronze moulds It was 1916 when Domenico Cocco started working at a pasta factory, at the age of 14 years old. Over the years, his work became a passion. The young lad learned the techniques and tricks of the art of pasta-making so quick under the guidance of the senior master pasta-makers, that he too was soon known as “Mastro Domenico�. He devoted his life to this fascinating trade, guarding all its secrets until he eventually passed them on to his son Giuseppe, the same as his seniors had done with him. In 1944, Giuseppe Cocco followed in his father’s footsteps.

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He was put to the test with the difficult task of searching through bomb-site rubble for machine parts used by former pasta-makers. The machines were re-assembled and were up and running again. With this sort of machinery, and those memories and those secrets, Cavaliere Giuseppe Cocco today produces in the village of Fara San Martino the pasta of those times gone by - just as good as it used to be. The old master pasta-makers claimed that there were four ingredients to making good pasta: the grain, the water, the air and the workmanship.

The excellent physical properties of the water of the River Verde (the Green River), which springs naturally from the mountains just here, coupled with the dry, windy climate of the place, which is perfect for the pasta-drying process, are the two ingredients that mother nature has given Fara San Martino, and which make the pasta produced here unique. The precious ancient machines are still under the careful and scrupulous control of Cavaliere Giuseppe Cocco.

He applies his unique experience to all the stages of the pasta-making process to ensure that all the protein value and nutrition remain intact, as well as the taste. The master pasta- maker pours the ground durum wheat into the kneading machine and gradually adds the purest spring water until the dough is firm and smooth.

The dough is passed through bronze moulds to give the pasta just the right slightly coarse texture that gets the sauce to cling and to bring out its flavour. The coiling machine rolls the pasta out into sheets, and with

its wooden rollers, like traditional rolling pins, draws it out to the desired thickness.

The pasta has now taken shape and then the most difficult and delicate stage begins - drying the pasta at natural temperatures. The quality of the pasta depends, among other things, on a very carefully controlled drying process, which also ensures the pasta’s nutritional properties and its quality during the cooking process. This stage is entrusted in the hands of the master pasta-maker, who decides how the pasta should be arranged on the Beachwood frames, how much air is needed and scrupulously watches over the driers.

Going by these methods, which are rigorously craftsman-like, means taking more time and space, and producing pasta in smaller quantities.

But it also means, above all, preserving the taste and flavour of pasta as it used to be in times gone by. And it is precisely this that interests Cavaliere Giuseppe Cocco, or Mastro Peppe, as he is called.

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RECIPE

Sea yourself Michael Diacono

for

CHEF PATRON MICHAEL DIACONO OF GIUSEPPI’S COOKS UP SOME DELICIOUS FISH AND SPANISH RECIPES.

Tagliatelle with ‘Tartufi di Mare’ (Venus clams) Prep and cooking time: 30 mins SERVES

4

YOU WILL NEED: 400g tagliatelle 4 tbsp. EVOO 10 cherry tomatoes, halved 3 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped 1 tsp. fresh finely chopped rosemary 1kg Tartufi di Mare (Venus clams) 250ml dry white wine Chopped parsley Chilli

METHOD:

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Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil. Add the olive oil to a large pan and add the halved cherry tomatoes. Cook for 3-4 minutes to soften before adding the chopped garlic and chilli. Cook for another 4 minutes, often stirring, add the herbs. On high heat, add the washed clams and shake before dousing with the white wine. Cover and cook for 5 to 8 minutes till all the shells are open. Meanwhile, cook the pasta al dente and drain. Toss at once with the clams and cook for 1 more minute before serving.

RECIPE

52

Cucumber, avocado and mint ‘Gazpacho’ Prep time: 20 mins SERVES

2

YOU WILL NEED: 1 large local cucumber, peeled and deseeded 2 garlic cloves 1 ripe avocado 4 spring onions, roughly chopped 150ml plain yoghurt 2 tbsp. apple cider vinegar Tabasco, a few dashes Chilli to garnish A few mint leaves Salt and pepper

METHOD:

Place the ingredients into a food processor and blend till smooth. For a finer finish, pass through a mouli legume. Place into the fridge and chill for at least 4 hours. Serve cold garnished with mint and sliced chilli.

53

RECIPE

Coffee seared Tuna ‘Tagliata’ with apple & mozzarella burrata Prep and cooking time: 60 mins SERVES

4

YOU WILL NEED: 800g fresh tuna loin 2 mozzarellas di bufala burrata 3 tbsp. ground coffee EVOO Salt For the Apple Puree; 4 Granny Smith apples 15g apple cider vinegar 100g water 35g butter ½ tsp. salt

METHOD:

54

Start with the apple puree. Peel, core and slice the apples. Place with the water, butter and salt into a pot and place over the heat. Cover, bring to the boil then simmer very gently for 15 minutes. Cool slightly before transferring to a blender — blitz while adding the vinegar slowly. Cover and keep aside till needed. Cut the tuna into 4 steaks. Brush with EVOO then sprinkle both sides generously with ground coffee. Season with salt. Leave to marinate and reach room temperature for 30 minutes. Cut the mozzarella balls in half. Heat your grill or a non-stick pan till hot, and sear the tuna for just 2 minutes on each side before slicing. Serve with quenelles of apple puree and garnish with the mozzarella di bufala burrata.

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Maturing in a few months, its weight

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