Cosmetic World Nov 8

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Cosmetic World november 8, 2010

BULLETIN

MUNAFO TO JOIN LVMH

Nicholas Munafo, president of Beauté Prestige International USA (BPI), will be leaving BPI to take on a new position as -Continued on Page 228

FRAGRANCE FOR THE CURE

TPR Holdings, led by president Brian Robinson, has joined forces with Susan G. Komen for the Cure to

www.cosmeticworld.com

The Fashion Group International honored beauty and fashion icons at the 27 th annual Night of Stars at New York City’s Cipriani Wall Street on October 28. The theme of the evening was “The Globalists,” recognizing the top fashion and beauty industry talents whose influence spans across borders. Hosted once again by Simon Doonan, the gala paid tribute to the “creativity, spirit and brilliance of the stellar nominees whom inspire us all to act globally.” Award-winning actress Jennifer Connolly presented Nicolas Ghesquière with this year’s Superstar title, while Pierre Cardin

THE FRAGRANCE FOUNDATION’S AUTUMN HARVEST

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The Fragrance Foundation’s State of the Industry Luncheon will take place at the Harvard Club -Continued on Page 228

Cosimo Policastro, executive vice president of global fine fragrances for Givaudan, and Nancy Berger Cardone, -Continued on Page 228

JUSTIN BIEBER TO LAUNCH SIGNATURE SCENT

Pop sensation Justin Bieber is working with Etoile Beauty Nation on a collection of -Continued on Page 228

Vol. XLV / No. 17

FGI SALUTES ICONS AT NIGHT OF STARS

STATE OF THE INDUSTRY

BEYOND BEAUTY 2011

®

Nose in the Glass’ Mary John Baumann, Givaudan’s Stephen Nilsen, Bon Appétit’s Jonathan Lindenauer and Terry Molnar of The Fragrance Foundation.

Mayor Michael Bloomberg and Evelyn Lauder of The Estée Lauder Companies.

received the Legend Award from actress Marisa Berenson and Frédéric Fekkai -Continued on Page 222

LORD & TAYLOR UNVEILS “ULTIMATE FACE-LIFT” Lord & Taylor celebrated the $25 million “ultimate face-lift” of its Fifth Avenue flagship store in New York City on October 26 with a gala that spread over seven of the store’s 10 floors. The storewide renovation introduces a new home department, a completely refurbished men’s floor, a new bridal shop and several ready-to-wear shops. Additionally, six floors were reconfigured to expose the natural light from the windows to make it brighter for customers while they shop.

The Fragrance Foundation’s associate board hosted a pairing of food, wine and fragrance at City Winery in New York City on October 26. Mary John Baumann president of Nose in the Glass, presented the historical background of four different types of wine, and Jonathan Lindenauer, chef de cuisine at Bon Appétit, created Elizabeth Arden’s Scott Beattie and Laurie a four-course meal to pair with the different flavors of each wine. Stephen Dowley with Liz Rodbell of Lord & Taylor (c.). “We are extremely proud of the new Nilsen, perfumer for Givaudan, developed olfactory representations of the food Lord & Taylor and very excited to show and the wine to create fragrance off this comprehensive renovation to accords to coincide with each course. our customers,” said Brendan Hoffman, -Continued on Page 226

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Cosmetic World, founded in 1966, is published by The Ledes Group Inc. Neither Cosmetic World News of the U.K. nor Cosmetique News of France has any affiliation with our premier international newsweekly. ©2010 Cosmetic World, a division of The Ledes Group. No reproduction of material herein without express permission of the copyright owner. Reproduction by photographic or any method will be treated as willful violation of the copyright laws.

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FGI SALUTES ICONS AT NIGHT OF STARS -Continued from Page 221

Michael Kors with Evelyn Lauder and Fabrizio Freda of The Estée Lauder Companies.

Pierre Cardin and Monique Raymond of Pierre Cardin.

Lord & Taylor’s Carol McCabe and Barbara Zinn-Moore (r.) with Margaret Hayes of The Fashion Group International.

GQ’s Karen Drechsler and Firmenich’s Theo Spilka with Trudi Loren of The Estée Lauder Companies.

Arcade’s Debra Leipman-Yale and Larry Berman with Rebecca Tyrmand of Elizabeth Arden.

The Estée Lauder Companies’ Fabrizio Freda, John Demsey and Jane Hudis.

was presented with the Beauty Award from Calvin Klein. Mayor Michael Bloomberg presented Evelyn Lauder, senior corporate vice president of The Estée Lauder Companies, with the Humanitarian Award and praised her for “leading the campaign to promote education and early detection of breast cancer.” Other honorees included Albert Kriemler of Akris, presented by W editor in chief Stefano Tonchi, Janie Bryant, costume designer for Mad Men, who received

the Entertainment Award from Mad Men star Elizabeth Moss and Rafel and Diana Vinoly in Architecture. Glen Senk of Urban Outfitters was honored in the Corporate Leadership category, Proenza Schouler’s Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez received fashion honors from Vogue editor in chief Anna Wintour and actor Richard Gere presented Diego Della Valle of Tod’s with the Brand Visionary Award. -Continued on Page 224

Macy’s Linda Levy and Vanity Fair’s Susan Naci Coty Prestige’s Catherine Walsh and Lori Singer (2nd r.) with Leighton Meester and Mark Wolk with Don Loftus of P&G Prestige. of Oxford Collections.

COSMETIC WORLD John G. Ledes publisher & editor ext. 241 jledes@beautyfashion.com

George Ledes president & ceo ext. 242 gledes@cosmeticworld.com

Debra Davis advertising director ext. 245 ddavis@cosmeticworld.com

Jennifer Drucker Eric Michelson art director photographer ext. 252 jdrucker@cosmeticworld.com

Brittany Burhop executive editor ext. 236 bburhop@cosmeticworld.com

Debbie Ward managing editor ext. 241 dward@cosmeticworld.com

For future events, go to cosmeticworldcalendar.com 222

Saks Fifth Avenue’s Karin and Steve Sadove with Mindy Grossman of HSN (c.).

PHONE 212-840-8800 FAX 212-840-7246 WEB www.cosmeticworld.com Subscriptions: 800-304-8323 Production ext. 245

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PUBLISHER CONFIDENTIALITY POLICY: The subscription lists of this publication are maintained on a confidential basis. Beauty Fashion has never marketed, sold or otherwise distributed, its subscription lists for any commercial or other purpose. COSMETIC WORLD (ISSN0589 8447) has been published since 1966 for the cosmetic, toiletry and fragrance industry, its manufacturers and retailers. COSMETIC WORLD is published bi-weekly except for the 1st week in January and July, by Cosmetic World, a division of The Ledes Group, 16 E. 40th Street, Suite 700, New York, NY 10016 (212) 840-8800. Subscriptions: Domestic $175 one year, $325 two years, Foreign-(air mail) $250 one year, $450 two years. Periodicals postage paid at New York, N.Y. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to COSMETIC WORLD, 16 E. 40th Street, Suite 700, New York, NY 10016

november 8, 2010

COSMETIC WORLD


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FGI’S NIGHT OF STARS -Continued from Page 222

Avon/mark.’s Claudia Poccia and Marie Claire’s Nancy Berger Cardone with Dana Kline, Roslyn Griner and Caroline Pieper-Vogt of Fusion Brands.

Givaudan’s Rodrigo Flores-Roux and Karyn Khoury of The Estée Lauder Companies.

NEWPRODUCTS L’ORÉAL PARIS Voluminous Million Lashes Mascara

Category: Makeup Launch: October 2010 Claims: This mascara offers a clean-sweep wiper system to fully coat both the short and long pliable brush bristles and a flexible wand to create clump-resistant and flake-proof results. Stats: $8.95

VICTORINOX Victorinox Swiss Unlimited Snow Flower The Estée Lauder Companies’ Greg Polcer and Tom Ford Beauty’s Caroline Geerlings with Kate Greene and Cos Policastro of Givaudan.

Coty Prestige’s Giovanni Boiano and Arcade’s Diane Crecca with Cathy Torelli of Givaudan.

The Estée Lauder Companies’ Aerin Lauder with Reed Krakoff of Coach.

P&G’s Brent Miller with Allure’s Kristin Perrotta and Michael Carl.

Category: Fragrance Launch: October 2010 Claims: Unites freezing white snow with a warm nose of orris, vanilla and woods to capture winter’s most wonderful moments, while offering textured packaging and an attached carbineer for carrying ease. Stats: 1 oz., $55.00

POP BEAUTY Jigsaw Gem

Tory Burch and Calvin Klein with Frédéric Fekkai.

Catherine Walsh with IFF’s Nicolas and Alexandra Mirzayantz.

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Firmenich’s Jerry and Francesca Vittoria (r.) and Harry Fremont with Claudia Poccia.

Category: Makeup Launch: November 2010 Claims: Harmonizing vibrancy with neutrals, these shades take the guesswork out of makeup composition—framing and shading the eyes in new ways with four eye liners, 10 eye shades and one intense gold-green shade. Stats: $20.00

Clinique’s Lynne Greene and Nancy Berger Cardone. ■CW november 8, 2010

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THE FRAGRANCE FOUNDATION’S AUTUMN HARVEST -Continued from Page 221

Givaudan’s Jennifer Follari and Carlos Timiraos of Coty Prestige.

Pochet’s Pierre-Jean Hellivan and Eric Vanin of Qualipac America.

Arcade’s Diane Crecca and Giovanni Boiano of Coty Prestige.

The Estée Lauder Companies’ Phebe Port, Jill McNamee and Liz Moran.

Robertet’s Ray Horne, Max Delaunay and Martha Basanta.

Givaudan’s Cathy Torelli, Rose Eckert and Lisa Marie Griffin.

Bringing together the crisp elements of autumn, Mr. Nilsen crafted a fifth fragrance to embody the theme of the evening and named it “Autumn Harvest.” Chef Lindenauer said he had never paired food with fragrance, so this was a very exciting and interesting experience for him. “I was influenced by fall, and local and seasonal ingredients that would really invoke the senses,” Lindenauer said. Mr. Nilsen dicussed how he took different notes from the chef’s menu to create individual fragrance accords.

Maesa Group’s Natasha Turlinski, Jill Carlucci, Tamar Kamen and Miki Iba.

The Estée Lauder Companies’ Rita Chen, Mitra Ghajar-Dowlatshahi, Janice Hall and Eileen Ahasic.

Beauty Avenue’s Marie Fry and Grace Garcia (2nd r.), with IFF’s Jessica Costa-Desmond and Rachel Weinhausen.

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“I was able to play with the finest ingredients we have on our fragrance palette to create something you wouldn’t normally find on store shelves,” Nilsen said. As guests finished up their maple pots de crème with almond praline, Ms. Baumann encouraged everyone to experiment with new experiences. “We hope to inspire you to think differently about wine-making and perfumery,” Baumann said. “We want you to expect the unexpected and enjoy the sensory magic in food, wine and fragrance.”

IFF’s Kristiina Raisanen, Susan McEwen and Olivier Delcour.

Coty Prestige’s Breanna Martin, Sarah Goldin, Natalie Suarez and Kelley McAuliffe.

Takasago’s Valerie Belmont and MarieAnna Ferdinand of Romane Fragrances. ■CW

november 8, 2010

COSMETIC WORLD


KIM KARDASHIAN DEBUTS FRAGRANCE AT MACY’S Reality TV star Kim Kardashian attracted a crowd of over 400 f a n s t o M a cy ’s Herald Square in New York City for the launch of her new signature fragrance on October 27. The first 300 customers to purchase the four-piece fragrance set ($116) were able to have their picture taken with her on the Macy’s stage. “I used to shop at Macy’s with my grandma when I was a little girl, and now it’s incredible that I have my own fragrance here,” Kardashian said. “All my favorite scents of memories are in this bottle.” ■CW

PATI DUBROFF JOINS CLARINS

LORD & TAYLOR UNVEILS “ULTIMATE FACE-LIFT” -Continued from Page 221

The Estée Lauder Companies’ Thia Breen and Barbara Zinn-Moore of Lord & Taylor.

Shiseido’s Rita Mangan and Maree Lavo with Tom Pedecine of Design + Z (c.).

president and CEO of Lord & Taylor. “The Ultimate Face-Lift represents the biggest investment we’ve made into updating our landmark flagship in over 30 years.” The beauty and fragrance department was redesigned with the ultimate goal of improving traffic flow, brand recognition and the overall customer experience. There are new color rendition index lights that allow customers to better shop for cosmetics and correctly pick appropriate shades that work in natural light. The cosmetics department features new state-of-the-art vendor installations including 75 video monitors, as well as graphic and light boxes that give customers the chance to fully

experience the brands. The brands that are now also available at the store are: Bobbi Brown, Fusion Beauty, Laura Mercier, Mario Badescu, Molton Brown and Clarisonic. The department has expanded by 3,000 square feet, and the store’s new open sell fragrance department has combined men’s and women’s to create greater impact. Additionally, it is designed to allow the customer to browse or shop with a fragrance expert. “We made fragrances a ‘beacon’ by putting it in the center of the floor with a one of a kind Swarovski chandelier to highlight the area,” said Barbara Zinn-Moore, senior vice president/GMM of cosmetics and home for Lord & Taylor.

Clarins’ Danyelle Boilard, Pati Dubroff, Jonathan Zrihen and Maria Dempsey.

Clarins USA had a luncheon at The Robert restaurant inside the Museum of Arts and Design to welcome their new celebrity beauty artist, Pati Dubroff, to their team. At the event, Ms. Dubroff shared her beauty philosophy—“beautiful makeup starts with great skin, which is perfectly in line with the Clarins philosophy.” Jonathan Zrihen, president and CEO of Clarins North America, spoke about the new partnership and explained why Clarins signed a makeup artist for a company that is predominantly skincare. “There are synergistic philosophies between Clarins and Pati, which include the importance of caring for your skin first and enhancing natural beauty,” ■CW Zrihen said. november 8, 2010

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YSL Beaute’s Maria Pocaro, Karen Levine and Lisa Beshlian.

Nars’ Louis Desazars and Liz Rodbell.

Lord & Taylor’s Sally Shaw and Lynne Greene of Clinique.

Lord & Taylor’s Joseph Gahr, Tina Occhino, Barbara Zinn-Moore, David Clements and Rosanna Zekic.

■CW

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KINERASE PARTNERS WITH DR. LEWINN From Marc Jacobs to Napoleon Perdis, both fashion designers and cosmetic gurus alike have had tremendous success with their diffusion collections. Kinerase, the clinical skin care brand with products offered in physician and prestige channels, has partnered with Dr. Laurence LeWinn to offer their expertise at a more widely accessible price point. Dr. LeWinn, plastic surgeon and founder of the Department of Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery in Philadelphia, was inspired by his celebrity clientele and decided then to create a topical skin care collection. These products, branded Dr. LeWinn’s Private Formula, became the premium skin care brand in Australia and have been number one for the past 11 years. Va l e a n t P h a r m a c e u t i c a l s International, Inc., creators of Kinerase, combined the advancements and technology from the two leading areas of medical skin care research—dermatology and plastic surgery—to create Dr. LeWinn by Kinerase, a hybrid of skin care products available at mass market retailers nationwide. The product portfolio includes 10 cleansers, moisturizers and daily treatments, and utilizes Kinerase’s patented Kinetin at exclusive clinical strength levels of 0.1% to extend skin’s youth by improving cell health. In addition to Kinetin, the collection contains a variety of advanced ingredients, some of which will be available in mass for the first time. The ingredients include Snap-8 Pe p t i d e , O s i l i f t , E ye s e r y l a n d Sepiwhite. The products retail from $10-$35 and will be available at select Walgreens and Walmart stores nationwide beginning in February. The original Kinerase core collection will continue to be available at Sephora, Ulta, Nordstrom and online at www.kinerase.com. ■CW 228

M·A·C UNVEILS iPAD APP M·A·C Cosmetics, in collaboration with digital media agency Smashing Ideas, launched their first ever iPad application called M·A·C: A Tartan Tale, an interactive audio book which is now available for free in Apple’s iTunes store. The app is launching in conjunction with the M·A·C 2010 holiday color collection, also called A Tartan Tale. Users can follow the magical fairytale of the

Myfanwy through the Glamora Castle as they shake, turn and touch interactive features throughout the book. Through pages of n a r ra t i o n a n d s o u n d effects, users can unlock content and share it with friends via Facebook. They can also tap the plaid makeup tin for direct access to www.maccosmetics. com where they can shop and learn ■CW about the entire collection.

BULLETIN MUNAFO TO JOIN LVMH -Continued from Page 221

president of LVMH fragrance brands division, a new position based in New York.

FRAGRANCE FOR THE CURE -Continued from Page 221

launch a union of beauty and charity. Robinson, the driving force behind Zirh as well as fragrance mainstays J o h n Va r v a t o s a n d F r e n c h Connection, and his TPR Holdings team, has developed the first ever fragrance for the world’s largest breast cancer organization to pay tribute to the strength of women fighting the cancer battle. The fragrance, called “Promise Me,” will launch in April, and will offer a 3.4 oz. EDP in a collectible bottle for prestige at $59.00 and a 3.4 oz. EDT perfume for mass at $29.99. The juice was developed by drom fragrances and famed perfumer Jean Claude Delville, and the packaging was designed by Chad Lavigne. Retailers that have already confirmed distribution include Sephora in JC Penney, Ulta and HSN.

STATE OF THE INDUSTRY -Continued from Page 221

on November 18. This year’s speakers are Peter Siris of Guerilla Capital Management, Susan Babinksy of Kline Group, Candace Corlett of WSL Strategic Retail and Ken Goldstein of The Conference Board. “The State of the Industry Luncheon is

an excellent opportunity to get critical insights by economic experts at what the fragrance industry can expect leading into the fourth quarter and the crucial holiday selling season,” said Rochelle Bloom, president of The Fragrance Foundation. To purchase tickets, go to www.fragrance.org.

BEYOND BEAUTY 2011 -Continued from Page 221

vice president and publisher of Marie Claire, will be the honorees at the seventh annual Beyond Beauty gala which benefits the James E. Marshall Foundation. It supports genetic research for Obsessive-Compulsive Disorder. The fundraising dinner will take place on February 8 at The Union League Club in New York City. The evening will feature a special performance by Jennette McCurdy. To purchase tickets, call 608-845-3664.

JUSTIN BIEBER

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fragrance embedded accessories. The scent, selected by Justin himself, has top notes of bergamot, lychee and pomegranate, followed by cedar and musk to create a signature unisex scent. The collection consists of wrist bands and dog tags with four designs of symbols and graphics to represent youth culture and concert mementos. It will be available at Walmart as of November 26. november 8, 2010

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