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OCTOBER 22, 2012




In celebration of its 2 0 - ye a r wa r wa g e d against breast cancer and in commemoration of the life and legacy of Breast Cancer Awareness (BCA) Campaign founder Elizabeth Musmanno -Continued on Page 246 Evelyn Lauder, The Estée Lauder Companies will BERND BEETZ NAMED CHAMPION introduce myriad localized, digital and grassroots initiatives this month as part of its unceasing efforts to obliterate the disease. Following a sixmonth search effort, Th e Fr a g r a n c e Fo u n d a t i o n h a s named Elizabeth Musmanno its new president, effective

Elizabeth Musmanno, Bernd Beetz, Don Loftus and Jill Belasco.

On October 1, William Lauder, executive chairman of The Estée Lauder Companies, made the rounds with Lauder spokesmodel Elizabeth Hurley to promote the new campaign, whose theme is, “Courage. Believe in a world without breast cancer. Know we’re here until it’s true.” In its 20 years, the BCA

The 2012 BCA Campaign.


In a cross-cateFormer Coty chief Bernd Beetz gory partnership was welcomed into the Circle of featuring scentChampions—an annual tribute delivery tech-Continued on Page 238 n o l o g y t h a t represents an STARS SHINE AT industry first, SCF GALA Lisa Hoffman will introduce this month a fragrance jewelry collection alongLisa Hoffman side the Dadainfluenced, cult-favorite jewelry designer Brooke Shields with Dr. Perry Robins and Dr. Marcia Robbins-Wilf. Tom Binns. The collaboration—which comprises Brooke Shields, True Blood star Nelsan Ellis, Katie Lee Joel, past pendant necklaces, cuff bracelets and and present castmates from the earrings—represents a new venture for -Continued on Page 236 both parties, Hoffman told Cosmetic MANE TAPS MORRIS World in an exclusive interview at the Mane has named Mandarin Oriental hotel. The pieces Westly Morris its boast bean-like forms with perforated senior vice president surfaces meant to evoke the liquid flow of fine fragrances, of mercury, and each contains Hoffman’s effective October 8. proprietary wooden fragrance beads Morris will be tapped infused with her five signature scents. Binn’s designs are beloved by fashion Westly Morris with growing the -Continued on Page 246

Vol. XLVIII / No. 19

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Next January, StriVectin is bringing to market its latest skin care breakthrough: a night treatment cream combining the gold standard anti-aging ingredient, retinol, with the brand’s proprietary NIA-114 molecule. Entitled StriVectin-AR Advanced Retinol Night Treatment, it will be priced at $109.00 for 1.7 oz. S t r i Ve c t i n — w h o s e motto is “faster, smarter anti-aging,” said the company’s vice president of marketing, Frederic Arbel—is sold at department and specialty retailers nationwide including QVC, Ulta and Macy’s, as well as on StriVectin-AR Advanced Retinol Night Treatment In combination with retinol, NIA-114 not only helps fuel the conversion of retinol to its more efficacious and bioactive form of retinoic acid, but it also strengthens the skin’s barrier, reducing sensitivity to retinol’s -Continued on Page 244

Cosmetic World, founded in 1966, is published by The Ledes Group Inc. Neither Cosmetic World News of the U.K. nor Cosmetique News of France has any affiliation with our premier international newsweekly. ©2012 Cosmetic World, a division of The Ledes Group. No reproduction of material herein without express permission of the copyright owner. Reproduction by photographic or any method will be treated as willful violation of the copyright laws.



Katie Lee Joel, Self’s Lucy Danziger and Dylan Lauren.

Shiseido’s Jadzia Tirsch, Heidi Manheimer and Tomoko Yamagishi-Dressler (r.) with Self’s Elaine D’Farley.

The Real Housewives of New York City and more turned up to fête The Skin Cancer Foundation’s annual gala on October 9 at The Plaza hotel. Hosted by Good Morning America weather anchor Sam Champion and Extra’s Jerry Penacoli, the gala honored PGA Tour’s Allison Keller, Genentech’s Rick Fair and Self editor in chief Lucy Danziger. Guests were also treated to a performance by upcoming singersongwriter Peter Cincotti.

Marie Claire’s Erin Flaherty with StriVectin’s Jill Scalamandre and CEW’s Carlotta Jacobson.

Founded in 1979 and helmed by president Dr. Perry Robins, The Skin Cancer Foundation is the only international organization devoted to combating the world’s most common form of cancer. Proceeds from the gala, Robins noted, benefit some of its most important initiatives, including its widely-viewed website, its anti-tanning youth education programs and its over 16,245 free skin cancer screenings offered on a Road to Healthy Skin Tour across the country.


SkinPerfector Blemish and Oil Clearing Primer Dr. Marcia Robbins-Wilf and Dr. Perry Robins with GMA’s Sam Champion and Fern Epstein.

True Blood’s Nelsan Ellis

Lord & Taylor’s Barbara Zinn Moore, Self’s Elaine D’Farley and Clinique’s CeCe Coffin.

The Real Housewives of New York City’s Reid and Aviva Drescher with Alex McCord and Simon van Kempen.


George Ledes president & ceo ext. 242

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Extra’s Jerry Penacoli


Category: Skin care Launch: November 2012 Claims: Innovative and clinically-proven treatment primer that clears acne imperfections and helps prevent new ones from forming, unclogs and tightens pores, eliminates shine and purifies skin. Ingredients: Salicylic acid, zincadone + and intrapore technology. Stats: 0.8 oz., $45.00

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PUBLISHER CONFIDENTIALITY POLICY: The subscription lists of this publication are maintained on a confidential basis. Beauty Fashion has never marketed, sold or otherwise distributed, its subscription lists for any commercial or other purpose. COSMETIC WORLD (ISSN0589 8447) has been published since 1966 for the cosmetic, toiletry and fragrance industry, its manufacturers and retailers. COSMETIC WORLD is published bi-monthly except for the 1st week in January and July, by Cosmetic World, a division of The Ledes Group, 16 E. 40th Street, Suite 700, New York, NY 10016 (212) 840-8800. Subscriptions: Domestic $175 one year, $325 two years, Foreign-(air mail) $250 one year, $450 two years. Periodicals postage paid at New York, N.Y. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to COSMETIC WORLD, 16 E. 40th Street, Suite 700, New York, NY 10016

OCTOBER 22, 2012





BERND BEETZ NAMED CHAMPION -Continued from Page 233

by The Fragrance Foundation—with a heartfelt and hilarious toast by friends and colleagues on Thursday, October 11.

Bernd Beetz with Vera Wang’s Mario Grauso and Vera Wang.

Jodi Fries of Macy’s with Aramis and Designer Fragrances’ Shelley Levendos, Carol Russo and Adriana Ricci.

Coty’s Catherine Walsh and Steve Mormoris.

Condé Nast’s Ali Hersh Pace alongside Givaudan’s Rose Eckert and Cos Policastro and Coty’s Lori Singer.

P&G’s Lisa Kessler with LVMH’s Nicholas Munafo, Doreen Hatcher and Bettina Bamberger.

Coty’s David Russell and George Cleary.

Bath & Body Works’ Tom Knotek, Monica Rowe and Camille McDonald.

Elizabeth Arden’s Art Spiro, The Fragrance Foundation’s Elizabeth Musmanno and Robertet’s Pierre Wulff.

Clarins’ Lionel Uzan and Jonathan Zrihen with Elle’s Anna Araman and IFF’s Olivier Delcour.

Coty’s Lorrie King with Jerry Vittoria of Firmenich.

The Fragrance Foundation’s Elizabeth Musmanno and Cosmetic World’s George Ledes with Takasago’s Olivia Bransbourg and Frederic Jacques.

Robertet’s Joe Lattarulo, Christophe Maubert and Jerome Epinette.

Mane’s Westly Morris with Coty’s Marsha Brooks and Steve Mormoris.

IFF’s Yves Cassar with Coty’s Ruth Sutcliffe.

Arcade’s Eric Dalbo and David Teets (r.) with SGD’s Peter Acerra.

Pochet’s Eric Vanin, Gerald Walle and Boris Zivkovic.

The Fragrance Foundation’s Elizabeth Musmanno with EC Scott’s Mark Scott and Nikki de Launay. ■CW


OCTOBER 22, 2012


Introducing the new fragrance


Campaign has raised over $35 million to fund over 140 medical research grants. “Research has shown that within our lifetimes, if clinicians continue to treat the disease at the rate that they have, it can become a thing of the past,” Mr. Lauder said. He also noted that, being an illness with such ubiquity, the campaign has become a vital part of Lauder’s corporate culture and an initiative that

“When Evelyn Lauder began this work twenty years ago,” Ms. Hurley said, “it was her dream to be put out of business.” Looking back on her work across the globe alongside Ms. Lauder, Ms. Hurley said she most vividly remembers all the cancer fighters and survivors she’s met along the way—most especially a group of young women who turned up to an appearance in Canada wearing bright, bravely garish wigs.

The Estée Lauder Companies’ Maureen Case William Lauder and Elizabeth Hurley illuminate the Empire State Building alongside Commissioner and William Lauder at the NYSE. Rose Gill Hearn and Malkin Holdings’ Tony Malkin.

anniversary of the cause stationed outside of the GM Building. Free and open to the public from October 1-3, the exhibition featured archival videos, photographs and articles showcasing the campaign’s most meaningful milestones and impactful accomplishments over the years. Ms. Thalberg also noted that this year’s campaign will have a prominent digital component on Facebook, whose timeline feature aligns perfectly

Rose Gill Hearn and William Lauder with the proclamation from Mayor Bloomberg.

“has really rallied with the campaign’s our employees own 20th anniversary and retrospective and become positioni ng. Th e something that B CA C a m p a i g n they take great will donate $1.00 pride in.” for every post on To start the day, Mr. Lauder rang BCACampaign the opening bell during the month at the New York of October (up to Stock Exchange alongside several The Estée Lauder Companies’ Elizabeth Hurley The interactive exhibition stationed outside a m a x i m u m o f of the GM building. $25,000.) colleagues from and Marisa Thalberg inside the exhibition. “If the idea of the campaign is t h e c o m p a n y w h o h av e b e e n At the Empire State Building, the touched by the disease—as well as company was presented with a awareness and generating a converfour researchers whose grants have proclamation from Mayor Bloomberg sation that didn’t exist before, social b e e n u n d e r w r i t t e n b y L a u d e r declaring October 1 “The Estée media is really made for social through The Breast Cancer Research Lauder Companies’ Breast Cancer causes,” Ms. Thalberg explained. She Foundation (BCRF). Awareness Campaign Day.” Other added that the interactive timeline Next, Mr. Lauder and Ms. Hurley illuminations this year will include and Twitter hashtag #BCA20 (from visited the Empire State Building to noted landmarks in Shanghai, which Tweets are then culled to illuminate the iconic tower in bright London, Paris, Milan, the Philippines, the Facebook feed) creates a global movement—from Zimbabwe to pink lights. (Evelyn Lauder launched Dubai, Los Angeles and more. BCA’s Global Landmark Illuminations Finally, that evening, the duo was Afghanistan—and “helps create one Initiative in 2000 and, in 2010, set a joined by Marisa Thalberg, Lauder’s community from isolated parts of the Guinness World Record for “Most vice president of global corporate world.” Alternative initiatives are Landmarks Illuminated for a Cause digital marketing, to unveil an taking place in China, she noted, in 24 Hours.”) interactive exhibition fête-ing the where Facebook is illegal. ■CW 240

OCTOBER 22, 2012


of Pacific Bioscience Laboratories, Inc. © 2012 Pacific Bioscience Laboratories, Inc. Clarisonic is a registered trademark and Mia 2 is a trademark

There are acne cleansing regimens that dermatologists recommend. And there’s the one they actually use.

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ACNE CLEANSING BRUSH HEAD Velvet-like bristle tips deliver concentrated flushing of the pores to provide an ultra-gentle cleansing action that’s safe for use on acne-prone skin.

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icons including Beyoncé, Michelle Obama and Lady Gaga and the collaboration was apt, Hoffman said, being that “Tom and I share a similar customer, and that fragrance and jewelry are worn on similar parts of the body.” Since the beads are housed within the jewelry, “[Binns] was particularly excited about adding an auditory component to his designs,” Hoffman noted.

the technology alongside Givaudan. Each piece of jewelry is sold with a 4.5-gram jar of beads of one of Hoffman’s fragrances: Japanese Agarwood, Madagascar Orchid, French Clary Sage, Tunisian Neroli and Tuscan Fig. The benefit to wearing fragrance jewelry is that the scent doesn’t actually interact with the skin, said Joan Sutton, vice president of product development

The pendant is strung onto a 30-inch, 2mm snake chain with an S-hook clasp.

The 2.1-inch-wide cuff features a rounded locket with a pressurized hinge.

Amorphous-shaped locket post earrings measure 0.89 inches.

The fragrance beads sold along each piece of jewelry.

Necklaces debut on HSN this month as well as on Each is priced at $250.00 and available in five metal finishes—reflecting the fragrance housed within. Five cuffs will follow in November, priced at $300.00, and earrings will round out the collection in January 2013, priced at $200.00. Hoffman was quick to point out the advantages of the beads, which are made from wood flour and feature a particularly high 30% fragrance ratio—so that they may last for roughly three weeks. She created

for Lisa Hoffman Beauty—meaning that allergic reactions are evaded and scents can be standardized without top, middle and bottom notes. “You can also put the fragrance on and take it off,” Sutton said, “as well as mix the beads in different combinations to create a personal blend.” Going forward, the collaborative possibilities—at varying price points— are seemingly endless, Hoffman said, adding that she intends to team with a different designer every year to create a new collection of fragrance jewelry. ■CW



Self’s Laura McEwen, JC Penney’s Ron Johnson, The Robin Report’s Robin Lewis and FGI’s Margaret Hayes.

Bliss’ Mike Indursky with Self’s Laura McEwen.


JC Penney’s Ron Johnson with FGI’s Diane Clehane.

on Johnson, CEO of JC Penney, shared behind-thescenes insight, strategy and his visions for changing the traditional retail paradigm at a Fashion Group International (FGI) event on October 2 entitled, “Ron Johnson: On the Rocky Road to Reinventing Retail.” In his own words, Johnson wants to remake JC Penney into “America’s favorite store” and imbue the business with freshness and excitement. Johnson was introduced by Laura McEwen, vice president and publisher of Self, and then participated in a Q&A after his presentation moderated by Robin Lewis, CEO of The Robin Report. Johnson spoke to myriad issues— Penney’s publicly-announced ‘revolution,’ its pricing strategy, the challenges of re-directing a corporate culture, hiring and training associates, and identifying new consumer segments ■CW in the market.

OCTOBER 22, 2012


Fashion Institute of Technology

Open House for Fall 2013 Admissions Master’s Degree Program: Cosmetics & Fragrance Marketing and Management

A Think Tank for Innovative Leadership FIT’s Cosmetics & Fragrance Marketing and Management graduate degree is designed to provide advanced managerial and marketing education for outstanding emerging executives in the beauty industry. The only curriculum of its kind in the United States, the program is a Think Tank of Innovative Leadership for the beauty industry.

Come and hear from our Alumni! Thursday, November 29, 2012, 6:00-7:30 pm FIT Board of Trustees Room, C Building, 9thFloor 7th Avenue at 27th Street, New York To RSVP:


by 7x, firmness by 4x oft-felt irritating side and texture by 3x. In just effects. “Working as a four weeks, clinical graddynamic duo, only NIAers observed a 100% 114 activates retinol’s improvement in texture, age-fighting power to an 88% improvement in work harder, faster and texture and radiance, a more efficiently without 79% improvement in the irritating side effects firmness and an 82% commonly associated improvement in fine lines. with retinol usage,” StriVectin is the product press materials said. Dr. Ellen Marmur with StriVectin’s Dr. Myron Jacobson, Dr. Elaine Jacobson, of 30 years of research In addition to NIA-114 Kathy Cheng and Frederic Arbel. by the company’s chief and retinol, the treatscientists, Drs. Elaine ment contains peptides, and Myron Jacobson— s o d i u m hya l u r o n a t e luminaries in the fields of and other botanicals. skin cancer and DNA Dubbed an overnight repair. All told, their multitasker, the product research has amassed is purported to reduce more than 30 global patthe appearance of wrinents—NIA-114 among kles and lines, provide deep hydration, improve them. Their examination of the role of niacin and firmness, even skin tone More’s Genevieve Monsma with its derivatives in helping and smooth texture. The launch event space. Real Simple’s Didi Gluck. to repair sun-damaged The formula boasts a Tested in 12-week, independent, skin cells has been funded by the lightweight and supple texture, said Kathy Cheng, StriVectin’s director of placebo-controlled, double-blind National Institute of Health (NIH) and marketing, and the launch also touts clinical trials, the product was proven has led to more than 150 published to improve skin tone by 26x, wrinkles papers and invited book chapters. ■CW all-new violet-hued packaging.




She’s So Jetset

Myrrh Muske & Cypress Fine Liquid Hand Wash

Intensive Pore Treatment

Category: Color Launch: October 2012 Claims: Makeup kit containing a four-shade eye shadow palette, pore-minimizing primer, mascara, face powder, lip gloss and doubleended applicator brush. A pamphlet offers tips on how to look posh and polished on-the-go. Stats: $36.00


Category: Body care Launch: October 2012 Claims: Limitededition scent inspired by Ancient Persia created to cleanse, soothe and capture the warmth of fall with Molton Brown’s signature complex of exotic active ingredients and fine fragrance. Stats: 10 oz., $28.00

Category: Skin care Launch: October 2012 Claims: Treats the causes of enlarged pores rather than masking the symptoms with an aggravating filler. Minimizes pores, controls oil production and firms skin. Ingredients: ALA, DMAE, glycolic acid and zinc & salicylic acid derivative. Stats: 2 oz., $75.00

OCTOBER 22, 2012






Shiseido sponsored Fortune magazine’s 14th annual Most Powerful Women Summit that took place at the RitzCarlton in Laguna Niguel, California Heidi from October 1-3. Manheimer Fe m a l e l e a d e r s i n business, government, academia, philanthropy and the arts gathered to share ideas—and were treated to complimentary spa services care of Shiseido, who has served as the exclusive beauty sponsor of the event since 2002. The brand offered facial massages, makeup application and product retailing (in partnership with Nordstrom) to attendees as well as eye cream and mascara giveaways. Additionally, Shiseido Cosmetics America CEO Heidi Manheimer participated in “Notebook Mentoring” sessions to connect high school juniors and seniors with powerful women mentors.


The German Sustainability Award committee has nominated global supplier Symrise for its approach to the sustainable procurement of vanilla in Madagascar. Symrise is one of three finalists in the “Germany’s Most Sustainable Initiative” category, recognized for supporting thousands of local vanilla farmers from cultivation to harvest to fermentation to extraction—all of which takes place locally. The award will be presented at the committee’s fifth annual event following German Sustainability Day on December 7 in Düsseldorf. “We are very excited about the nomination,” stated Symrise CEO Dr. Heinz-Jürgen Bertram. “It confirms that we’re on the right path with the ongoing integration of sustainability into our business model.” The company also benefits 246

from these efforts with long-term access to high-quality raw materials, making it more globally competitive.


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immediately. Musmanno is the organization’s third president, following Annette Green and Rochelle Bloom. She will be tasked with forging new strategic allegiances and exclusive business initiatives and was chosen for her connections within and, most importantly, outside of the beauty world. “We believe her deep connections in a vast array of industries will bring a fresh perspective to the foundation,” said Jill Belasco, board chair of The Fragrance Foundation and CEO of CoScentrix. Added Cosimo Policastro, executive VP of fine fragrances, Givaudan: “We are thinking about the foundation in a completely different way.” Musmanno formerly served as VP of global communications at Unilever Cosmetics International, worldwide marketing and communications director for Christian Dior Couture and senior vice president of global communications and marketing at Vera Wang before founding her own firm, The Musmanno Group, in 2010—whose operations she will continue to oversee. The Fragrance Foundation was founded in 1972 and currently counts over 100 member companies. ■CW

MANE TAPS MORRIS -Continued from Page 233

company’s fine fragrance division stateside as well as aligning Mane’s New York creative center with its initiatives in Paris and Sao Paulo. “I am extremely proud that Westly elected Mane as his fragrance house of choice,” said Michel Mane, president of Mane Americas. Previously, Morris has held positions at Firmenich in global fine fragrances as well as at Quest before its merger with Givaudan. He has also been on the brand side of the business at Elizabeth Arden.


American Media, Inc. (AMI) has named Cheryl Kramer Kaye the executive beauty director of its women’s lifestyle and entertainment groups. Formerly Cheryl Kramer beauty and fashion Kaye director for Star magazine, in Kramer Kaye’s new role she will contribute beauty and style content to both Shape and Star. Prior to joining AMI, Kramer Kaye was the beauty director at Redbook for nearly a decade. “I can’t wait to get back into the deeper-delving monthly format at Shape and collaborate with the magazine’s incredible editorial team and advisory board,” Kramer Kaye stated. “And I still get to indulge in my true guilty pleasure, Star.” “We’re thrilled Cheryl is continuing to provide top-tier beauty expertise to Star and now to Shape readers,” said AMI chairman, president and CEO David Pecker. Added Tara Kraft, Shape’s VP/editor in chief: “Cheryl is one of the most respected—and talented—editors in the beauty industry.”


Ly n L e i g h , f o r m e r director of press and communications for The Fragrance Foundation, has left the organization to head up a new beauty division within Lyn Leigh New York-based PR agency Goldstein Communications. Her new title will be senior vice president, Beauty For All. Leigh has previously held positions in London, Paris and New York for companies including Givenchy and The Estée Lauder Companies. She is currently consulting for the justlaunched Evologie skin care line for ■CW acne-prone skin.

OCTOBER 22, 2012



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Cosmetic World October 22, 2012 issue