Cosmetic World september 6, 2010
BULLETIN
FRAGRANCE FOUNDATION To HONOR BREEN
www.cosmeticworld.com
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Enter Sephora Through Unique Alliance
however, including results from Costco, Macy’s and Limited. As the economic recovery has slowed more significantly than most analysts had originally predicted, consumers are still cautious about their spending. But, July also marked the start of back-to-school shopping season, which usually means a boost in sales. “Back-to-school has accelerated into the July timeframe and we certainly know that parents are expecting to -Continued on Page 182
La Prairie Produces Educational Breast Cancer DVD As part of its steadfast commitment to the beauty and health of its consumers worldwide, the ultraluxe La Prairie brand unveiled its latest charitable initiative during an editors’ breakfast held atop the brand’s New York offices on August 5.
The Procter & Gamble Company has announced plans to use renewable, sustainable, sugarcane-derived plastic on selected -Continued on Page 188
Maulawizada Returns to Laura Mercier
Matin Maulawizada has recently been named the global artistry director and brand ambassador for Laura Mercier Cosmetics.
Vol. XLV / No. 13
Retail Sales Rebound In July
Retail sales managed a modest increase in July after two consecutive months of decline. According to the Commerce Department, total sales rose 0.4% to a seasonally adjusted $362.7 billion, compared with June’s 0.3% decrease. Economists surveyed by Briefing.com said the gain was slightly lower than anticipated, with most of the gain comThia Breen ing from autos and gasoline. Excluding The Fragrance Foundation will these two sectors, the retail picture honor Thia Breen, president, remains bleak and hardly stabilized. N o r t h A m e r i c a , Th e E s t é e There were some pleasant surprises Lauder Companies at this year’s 11th Circle of Champions dinner Bumble and bumble to
P&G To Pilot Sustainable Packaging
®
A rendering of Bb.Shop within Sephora.
Breast Cancer: The Path of Wellness & Healing
Veteran actor and Oscar-winner Ernest Borgnine, husband of QVC star Tova Borgnine, will
New York-based hair care and styling company Bumble and bumble recently initiated a unique retail partnership with specialty beauty mecca Sephora. Bumble and bumble products, customized fixtures and innovative touchscreens providing product and styling information will soon be featured within 10 Sephora doors in North America—with additional doors to follow in Spring 2011. Initial locations will include: California, New York, Massachusetts, Virginia, New Jersey, Florida and Texas. The plan also calls for an emphasis on connectivity between the forthcoming Sephora locations and Bumble’s extensive
La Prairie will partner with two-time breast cancer survivor Joyce Ostin to sponsor the production of a two-DVD set entitled Breast Cancer: The Path of Wellness & Healing. Created by Ms. Ostin and her partner, Nina Montée Karp, the educational and inspirational DVD provides multi-faceted advice on
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Matin Maulawizada
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PERFUMANIA’S NUMBERS FOR JULY
Perfumania, which operates specialty retail fragrance stores throughout the United States -Continued on Page 188
Ernest Borgnine to Receive SAG Life Achievement Award
Cosmetic World, founded in 1966, is published by The Ledes Group Inc. Neither Cosmetic World News of the U.K. nor Cosmetique News of France has any affiliation with our premier international newsweekly. ©2010 Cosmetic World, a division of The Ledes Group. No reproduction of material herein without express permission of the copyright owner. Reproduction by photographic or any method will be treated as willful violation of the copyright laws.
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Retail Sales Rebound In July
Marie Claire Teams Up For New Technology Marie Claire has partnered with Pongr, an advertising technology products and services company, to launch the largest image recognition, mobile marketing campaign ever. More than 200 luxury brands will be accessible through an app-less solution that allows consumers to select the specific product they want more information on. Consumers are using their mobile cameras to share pictures of products they like with their social networks, which in turn exceeds billions of images per month. “The Marie Claire reader is socially connected and heavily networked. By enabling her to share her brand and product choices, she becomes a powerful evangelist for our advertising partners,” said Nancy Berger Cardone, vice president and publisher of Marie Claire magazine.
Obituary: Harald Vogt
Harald Vogt, the founder and presid e n t o f Vo g t Communications Management and creator and president of The Scent Marketing Institute, Harald Vogt has passed away. Mr. Vogt leaves behind his wife, Caroline Pieper-Vogt, the CEO of Fusion Brands, and their two children, Raffaela and Palmer. In lieu of flowers, donations in Mr. Vogt’s memory will be accepted at the Preventive Medicine Research Institute, located at 900 Bridgeway, Sausalito, CA 94965 (www.pmri.org).
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spend more than they did last year,” said Janet Hoffman, managing director of consultant firm Accenture’s retail practice. As job growth continues to pick
Retail Sales: July 2010 vs 2009 Select Specialty Stores (in $ millions) Limited Brands Neiman Marcus Nordstrom Saks Inc.
George Ledes president & ceo ext. 242 gledes@cosmeticworld.com
Debra Davis advertising director ext. 245 ddavis@cosmeticworld.com
Jennifer Drucker Eric Michelson art director photographer ext. 252 jdrucker@cosmeticworld.com
Bon-Ton Dillard’s Macy’s
% Change 11.4% 13.6% 10.5% 4.8%
Same-Store Sales % 6.0% 11.1% 7.6% 6.4%
% Change (0.6%) (3.0%) 11.0%
Same-Store Sales % (0.3)% (3.0)% 7.3%
July 2010 $1,156.0 $1,161.0 $1,500.0
% Change 7.1% (2.8%) 6.0%
Same-Store Sales % 4.1% (0.6%) 2.0%
July 2010 $5,860.0 $4,585.0
% Change 8.0% 3.8%
Same-Store Sales % 6.0% 2.0%
% Change (2.2%) 6.2%
Same-Store Sales % (1.1%) 0.4%
July 2010 $177.6 $425.2 $1,528.0
Popular Department Stores Kohl’s JC Penney TJX Companies
Mass Retailers Costco Target
Chain Drug Store Retailers Rite Aid Walgreens
Brittany Burhop executive editor ext. 236 bburhop@cosmeticworld.com
Debbie Ward managing editor ext. 241 dward@cosmeticworld.com
For future events, go to cosmeticworldcalendar.com 182
July 2010 $619.7 $226.0 $890.0 $167.9
General Department Stores
COSMETIC WORLD John G. Ledes publisher & editor ext. 241 jledes@beautyfashion.com
up and fears of a faltering economy begin to subside, consumers will be provided with more income to spend, therefore inflating future retail numbers.
July 2010 $1,886.0 $5,580.0
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september 6, 2010
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Bumble and bumble to Enter Sephora Through Unique Alliance -Continued from Page 181
network of salons through unique efforts including the Nice Hair(cuts) Card. Available at Sephora, the gift card is redeemable toward salon services at participating outfits within the Bb.Network—a group of 3,000 salons across the world that carry their products and attend its university in order to become fully immersed in the brand’s culture.
The Nice Hair(cuts) Card.
“Over the past several years, we’ve seen consumers migrating their shopping habits across different channels,” noted Bumble and bumble president, Peter Lichtenthal. “We need to meet the needs of this new shopper by presenting Bumble and bumble in both prestige salons and select retail locations while driving this same shopper to Bb.Network Salons for cut, color and styling services.” “The addition of Bumble and bumble to our hair assortment will no doubt please our passionate clients—who have long requested this,” said Margarita Arriagada, Sephora’s senior vice president of merchandising, “and we are excited to have Bumble and bumble become one of our key hair care partners.” ■CW
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La Prairie Produces Educational Breast Cancer DVD -Continued from Page 181
how to achieve physical, mental and president Lynne Florio. “It is an spiritual well-being before, during or honor…to help promote awareness of a disease that has affected so after a breast cancer diagnosis. The DVD features commentary many lives.” “I survived my battle with metafrom celebrity survivors Christina Applegate, Sheryl Crow, Melissa static cancer with the support of my Etheridge, Olivia Newton-John and family and friends, my inner strength Jaclyn Smith—as well as from pre- and with access to the best medical eminent doctors and wellness advice,” added Ms. Ostin. “I felt this information e x p e r t s , should be including: D r. D e e p a k accessible to Chopra, Dr. women worldHarvey Karp, wide going through canD r. D e a n O r n i s h , D r. cer as a tool for survival.” D e n n i s Available at Slamon, Dr. breastcancerdMarisa Weiss, La Prairie’s Holly Genovese, Jaime Maser and vd.org, and on Kathy Freston Lynne Florio (r.) with Joyce Ostin. amazon.com, and Marianne Williamson. Celebrity supporters proceeds from the DVD will benefit Rosanna Arquette and Gabrielle breastcancer.org and UCLA’s Jonsson Comprehensive Cancer Center. La Union also offer words of wisdom. “La Prairie stands behind our firm Prairie will also work to distribute dedication to provide our clients copies of the DVD to women in need with the best products possible to throughout various hospitals across fight against premature aging, envi- the country, Ms. Florio noted, while ronmental hazards and the stresses in-store events are being planned to of everyday life,” noted La Prairie help spread the word. ■CW
NEWPRODUCTS
Calvin Klein Calvin Klein Beauty
NARS Pure Matte Lipstick
Category: Fragrance Launch: September 2010 Claims: A new interpretation of the lily—a neo-lily—that captures the spirit and essence of a woman’s femininity, radiance and power. Key Ingredients: Ambrette seeds, jasmine and a trail of cedarwood. Stats: 3.4 oz., $85.00
Category: Makeup Launch: September 2010 Claims: Available in six deeply pigmented shades, this innovative, matte lipstick has stay-true color and a luxuriously rich texture to leave lips hydrated, lush and vibrant. Stats: $25.00
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COSMETIC WORLD
HBA Global Expo To Host Key Line-Up This year’s keynote address at the HBA Global Expo & Conference will be delivered by Pamela Baxter, president and CEO, LVMH Perfumes & Cosmetics for North Pamela Baxter America. She will focus her speech on how to build a successful career in a highly competitive business, while sharing her approaches to networking and monitoring one’s professional development. Christie Brinkley will receive the Positively Beautiful Award for her philanthropic endeavors with the Smile Train. The award will be presented during the keynote and kick-off presentation. Six leading executives will come together to create a noteworthy panel at HBA’s Marketing & Technical Conference. The program entitled Insight from the Top: Looking Ahead to Innovation and Growth Challenges, will reveal the industry leaders’ thoughts on the future of the beauty and personal care industry. The esteemed panel includes Christian Bardin, president, CBA Associates; Craig Frischling, president, Lipo Chemicals, Inc.; Kevin Gallagher, president, Croda, Inc.; John Van Hulle, president, Global Color Additives and Inks, PolyOne; and Karen Young, CEO, The Young Group. During the three days of the conference, HBA’s technical program will offer educational sessions to supply industry professionals with innovative ideas and strategies. Other sessions include in-depth coverage of the collaboration of beauty and science by leading doctors and scientists from Clinique and The Estée Lauder Companies, as well as many others. Th e H BA G l o b a l E x p o & Conference will be held at New York’s Jacob K. Javits Convention Center on September 28-30. The keynote address is open to all attendees and will begin at 9:00 a.m. on September 28. ■CW 186
StriVectin Introduces New Skin Care Formula StriVectin, known for their collabora- mixed with a ceramide technology tions of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, to aid in strengthening the skin’s has developed a new clinical formula natural cushion and structure. to fight the effects of aging and Chief scientists conducted a 12create lasting skin repair results. week clinical trial in which subjects Their newest skin care creation: applied the cream to their target StriVectin-SD Intensive Concentrate areas twice a day. “After eight weeks, for Stretch Marks & Wrinkles. subjects saw a 20% reduction in fine The brand’s chief lines, 25% decrease scientists and prodin deep wrinkles and uct developers have over 50% improvebeen aiming to ment in color for rebuild healthier, stretch marks,” said y o u n g e r- l o o k i n g Drs. Myron and skin, layer by layer. E l a i n e Ja c o b s o n , “We powered up the S t r i Ve c t i n ’s ch i e f original StriVectin scientists. with even more S t r i Ve c t i n - S D potent collagenIntensive Concentrate boosting peptides for Stretch Marks & and re-engineered Wrinkles is priced at the formula with $135.00 for 5 oz. technology discovered Rounding out the in DNA skin cancer skin care collection research,” said Jill are StriVectin-SD’s Scalamandre, chief new companion prodStriVectin’s new skin care collection. marketing officer. ucts, StriVectin-SD Using a percentage of the multi- Eye Concentrate for Wrinkles (1 oz., patented NIA-114 molecule, niacin $59.00) and StriVectin-SD Instant in the form of nicotinic acid, the Retexturizing Scrub (5 oz., $45.00). cream will help to preserve highThe products will be available quality collagen and moisture in the beginning this month at Macy’s, skin. StriVectin-SD uses a combina- Bloomingdale’s, Lord & Taylor, tion of garden sprout extract, Swiss D i l l a r d ’s , S e p h o ra , U l t a a n d apple stem cells and Resveratrol, strivectin.com. ■CW
NEWPRODUCTS
MARC JACOBS Lola Marc Jacobs Daisy Marc Jacobs Solid Perfume Bracelet Solid Perfume Ring Category: Fragrance Launch: October 2010 Claims: Inspired by the exploding bouquet that blooms from the Lola Fragrance bottle, the over-sized gold chain slides open to reveal the luscious fuschia peony fragrance inside. Stats: 0.03 oz., $45.00
Category: Fragrance Launch: October 2010 Claims: A modern twist on the beloved original, this over-sized dome ring captures the free-spirited nature of Daisy with a whimsical scattering of daisies across the black lacquer dome. Stats: $42.00 september 6, 2010
COSMETIC WORLD
NEWPRODUCTS SLATKIN AND STEWART’S VERA WANG Vera Wang Anniversary
Category: Fragrance Launch: September 2010 Claims: A beautifully faceted bottle decorated with lavender petals, this sensuous woody floral is a celebration of love and happiness to commemorate Vera Wang’s 20th Anniversary. Key Ingredients: Sicilian bergamot, white gardenia, golden amber crystals and warm cedarwood. Stats: 1.7 oz., $72.00, 3.4 oz., $92.00
SINFUL COLORS Colors of Darkness Collection Category: Nail care Launch: September 2010 Claims: For the girl who loves a good dish of drama, these eight seductive polishes are mystifyingly marvelous on finger-tips and toes alike. The fall-lineup includes the rich, dynamic shades of black, red, navy and violet. Stats: 0.5 oz., $1.99
Marchesa for Le Métier de Beauté La Lune Category: Makeup Launch: September 2010 Claims: A quintet of dramatically bold colors which includes a pressed powder, concealer, crème blush, lip gloss and eye shadow, brings a smoky-eyed, feminine look to your fingertips in a credit cardsized palette. Stats: $65.00 september 6, 2010
COSMETIC WORLD
BIRTHDAY BASH
Family, friends, industry leaders and international trend-setters all gathered to celebrate the birthdays of Martha Stewart and home fragrance entrepreneur Harry Slatkin at Navy Beach, a new beachfront restaurant in Montauk, New York on August 20. The acclaimed guest-list included The Estée Lauder Coach’s Reed and Delphine Companies’ John Demsey, Krakoff, Martha Stewart, John Demsey of The Estée Lauder Mario Grauso of Vera Martha Stewart and Companies and CNN’s Alina Cho. Harry Slatkin. Wang, Reed Krakoff of Coach, and designer Elie Tahari. American beach fare. Seated at two long tables in the Laura Slatkin gave a birthday toast sand, guests took off their shoes and to her husband saying, “Being marmunched on lobster rolls and ried to you, I am the luckiest girl in cheeseburgers, among other classic the world.” ■CW
SYMRISE EXPANDS PERFUME PRODUCTION Symrise has recently expanded its fragrance production capacity, adding two new mixing and dosing facilities for perfume oils to their company’s headquarters in Holzminden, Germany. The expansion marks a significant increase in the company’s Scent & Care Division, creating at least 30 new jobs and a total investment volume of approximately $6 million. Symrise produces nearly a third of
Fresh Sugar Lip Polish
the worldwide demand for perfume oils in Holzminden, where more than 2,000 raw materials are processed into compositions for fine fragrances and body care products. The two facilities include a production dosing system for additional raw materials, and and 1,000-element dosing system that guarantees a precise mixing of perfume oils through a 90% maximal level of automation. ■CW
blow Ready Set Blow Express Blow Dry Lotion
Category: Skin care Category: Hair care Launch: Launch: September 2010 October Claims: The first blow dry 2010 lotion specifically designed for Claims: A a faster, easier blow dry, while gentle conditioning exfoliant that shaping free-flowing heat styles leaves lips incredibly smooth and and minimizing stress on hair. silky soft, while buffing away dry Key Ingredients: Flexible copoflakes and locking in moisture. lymer blend builds a frizz-free, Key Ingredients: Sugar, meadowfoam touchable style and vitamin B restores seed, shea butter and vitamin E. energy and body to limp locks. Stats: $22.50 Stats: 4 oz., $21.00 187
BULLETIN FRAGRANCE FOUNDATION To HONOR BREEN -Continued from Page 181
on October 5. The Circle of Champions Award is presented annually at a dinner ceremony held in honor of an individual, selected by the Board of Directors, who has made a notable impact on the fragrance industry. In the role of president, North America, The Estée Lauder Companies, Ms. Breen is responsible for driving sales and profits for all the company’s brands in North America across all distribution channels. Since joining the company in 1977, she has worked on leading beauty brands, including: Aramis, Clinique and Origins, where as a member of the founding team, she helped to establish the brands unique profile.
P&G To Pilot Sustainable Packaging -Continued from Page 181
packaging for its Pantene Pro-V, Covergirl and Max Factor brands. The new material is made in an innovative process which transforms sugarcane into high-density polyethylene plastic, a type commonly used for product packaging. It remains 100% recyclable in existing municipal recycling facilities. By launching this renewable packaging on some of its global beauty brands, P&G will leverage its scale to deliver significant environmental improvements. The pilot will be released globally over the next two years, with the first products expected to be on shelves in 2011. ‘’This innovation is truly consumerdriven. As we talk with women around the world, they tell us that they want to make themselves more beautiful without making their environment less beautiful,’’ said Gina Drosos, group president, Global P&G Beauty.
Maulawizada Returns to Laura Mercier -Continued from Page 181
In this new position, Mr. Matin will work side by side with Ms. Mercier 188
on a variety of business aspects, from development of color and skin care to collaboration with the media on all product launches and on-air appearances. His role will help to ensure that the brand is delivering a consistent message based on the focus of “The Flawless Face.” Mr. Matin is returning to the Laura Mercier Cosmetics family—he was the first national makeup artist when the brand was created 14 years ago. Among Mr. Matin’s impressive list of celebrity clients are Angelina Jolie, Gwyneth Paltrow and Maggie Gyllenhall.
PERFUMANIA’S NUMBERS FOR JULY -Continued from Page 181
and Puerto Rico, reported total net sales of $16.8 million for the fourweek fiscal month of July. This is a 7.7% decrease from total net sales of $18.2 million in July 2009. Comparable store sales also dropped in July by 6.7%.
Ernest Borgnine to Receive SAG Life Achievement Award -Continued from Page 181
be honored with a Life Achievement Award by the Screen Actors Guild during the group’s 17 th annual awards presentation on January 30. Mr. Borgnine has been chosen for this most prestigious accolade for career achievement and humanitarian accomplishment. Having performed in more than 200 motion pictures, five television series and dozens of television films, he has received significant amounts of industry recognition, critical praise and audience commendation throughout his career. According to Screen Actors Guild national president Ken Howard, Mr. Borgnine has brought a boundless energy at 93, and it is with that same joyous spirit that the organization intends to salute his impressive body of work and his steadfast generosity.
ADSPACE Features FIFI WINNERS
The winners of the prestigious
Fragrance Foundation’s annual FiFi Awards are being highlighted as feature content on the Adspace Digital Mall Network, the largest in-mall digital video network in the country. This year’s winners appearing on the network include Lola by Marc Jacobs, Tom Ford Grey Vetiver, ck one, Couture Couture by Juicy Couture and Bond No. 9. “Adspace and its editorial department have been consistently supportive to our industry and have made very creative use of its medium to promote the fragrance industry,” said Rochelle Bloom, president of The Fragrance Foundation. The Fragrance Foundation editorial content was featured on Adspace’s network of 1,400 in-mall digital, eight-foot tall billboards fitted with 65-inch vertical plasma screens for the entire month of August.
Carlucci Promoted At Maesa
Jill Carlucci has been named the manager of corporate affairs for Maesa Group. In her new role, she will be responsible for Maesa’s public relations, marketing and advertisingrelated matters.
REDBOOK LAUNCHES iPHONE APP
Redbook has launched its first application for the iPhone. One Stop Shop is a personal shopping guide for women on the go. The application features Redbook’s weekly picks for the hottest fashion and beauty buys, readily available for online and in-store purchases, as well as styling tips. In addition, One Stop Shop allows users to search, locate and even reserve products at their local retailers. The application allows readers to enhance their magazine experience through a mix of editorial content, original shopping tips with real-time updates and social sharing functions. It is available now for free download on iTunes.
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COSMETIC WORLD