BEAUTY FASHION www.beautyfashion.com
速
NOVEMBER 2011
Discover the true essence of fine fragrance with the Robert Piguet collection.
© 2011 Estée Lauder Inc.
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INTRODUCING EAU DE PARFUM
NOVEMBER 2011 • VOLUME 95 • NUMBER 11
BEAUTY
BEAUTY FASHION www.beautyfashion.com
®
FASHION
®
NOVEMBER 2011
Discover the true essence
On the cover:
of fine fragrance with the Robert Piguet collection.
To punctuate this holiday season, the Robert Piguet brand is pleased to present Limited Edition Fracas de Robert Piguet Parfums with Swarovski Elements Crystals. Opulence and splendor spotlight these special editions. For ultra luxurious gifting, choose the lavish Fracas Parfum One Liter Limited Edition w/Swarovski Crystals. EXCLUSIVELY AT HARRODS, London
AT-COUNTER 22
A Walk On The Line Side…With Palm Beach Beauté Branching At Macy’s In New Jersey To Celebrate The Launch Of Ellen Tracy Bronze
THEBEAUTYBIZ 10
The Beauty Flash
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Industry Ear
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The Scentsational World Of The Sensorium
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CEW Honors Industry Leaders At 2011 Achiever Awards
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Agon Honored By AJC
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McDonald Receives 12th Annual Circle Of Champions Award
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The IMMUNOCOLOGIE™ ‘Glow’ Skincare Regimen Works At Cellular Level
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Catching The Consumer In Today’s Economy FGI’s Panel Of Retail Executives Reviews Current Challenges
34
drom Celebrates 100th Anniversary
35
Artisanal Beauty The Pitti Immagine Fragranze N.9
22 24 ™
© 2011 BY BEAUTY FASHION. No reproduction of material contained herein without express permission of the copyright owner. Reproduction by photographic or any method will be treated as willful violation of the copyright laws.
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© Clinique Laboratories, LLC
You know what retouching can do to a photo. That’s the idea behind this new makeup. Our Repairwear Laser Focus is designed to soften the look of lines. So it doesn’t settle in, enlarging every little flaw. There’s also a dose of the technology that powers our Repairwear Laser Focus serum. So over time, simply wearing All-Smooth Makeup SPF 15 helps skin look smooth, soft, younger. Much more, including serum befores and afters at clinique.com
NOVEMBER 2011 • VOLUME 95 • NUMBER 11
BEAUTY FASHION
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34 36
Jung Discusses The Business And Beauty Of Avon At CEW Newsmaker Forum
39
Fashion Design Students Create Fragrances At IFF
40
Allure’s ‘Beautiful’ People Best Of Beauty Awards’ 15th Anniversary
41
Fragrance Express And SkyMall Lift Off New Venture
55
Game Changer
FOREIGNCORRESPONDENTS 44
Brazil Beauty Brief -Fernanda Bonifacio
56
Beauty Australia -Andrea Ferrari
40
REGIONALCORRESPONDENTS 45
Spotlight On Dallas Beauty -Normita Joven
THEPARTYSCENE 20
On The Avenue
38
Skin Sense Awards To Shaban And Sigal
THELATESTLAUNCHES 26
Fragrances On File
30
Splashes Of Color
EVERYMONTH
37
Holiday Gift Sets Part III
8
Editorial
42
Regimens To Rev Up Skin
10
ComingUp
43
GANT Sets Sail
12
Calendar
43
EDiTORiAL
Remember the good old days when the retailers complained about the lack of cold weather to get people into the stores? Wow—Old Man Weather certainly gave us a wake-up call and a call-to-arms the last weekend of October. Six inches of snow in Central Park and over a half million people out of power. One might think we never had it so good. All kidding aside, I really believe the retailer and their cosmetic and fragrance partners are well primed for the holiday season. But, most important of all, the consumer seems to be responding, according to all economic indicators from GDP to consumer spending, which gives us reasonable hope that we will enjoy a good holiday season. So, let’s impress upon our teams at all levels to take a positive and committed stance as we wind our way through the holidays. It is up to us to do our part, as I don’t think anyone would argue that Old Man Weather has not done his!!! Looking forward to The Fragrance Foundation’s State of the Industry—the content and the get-together— December 1.
George Ledes President and CEO
NOVEMBER 2011 /
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SARAH MCNAMARA AT SEPHORA
Sarah McNamara Beauty’s Miracle Skin Transformer opens at Sephora.
Sarah McNamara Beauty’s Sarah McNamara meets the press at Sephora/Times Square.
Sarah McNamara Beauty’s Miracle Skin Transformer SPF 20 launched at Sephora on October 7. Sarah McNamara, Founder and CEO of Sarah McNamara Beauty, which was recently acquired by Atlantic Coast Media Group (ACMG), met with customers and demonstrated her Miracle Skin Transformer line.
Ms. McNamara applies Miracle Skin Transformer to a customer.
Ms. McNamara (2nd r.) with ACMG’s Darek Hrynkiewicz, Andrew Surwilo and Andy Siegel
Sarah McNamara Beauty’s Anthony Vesnaver, Mr. Surwilo and Ms. McNamara (5th r.) with Sephora/ Times Square’s Cast Members
BETSEY JOHNSON TOO TOO DEBUTS Sephora welcomed Betsey Johnson Too Too on October 13 with dancing girls and a DJ pumping out the beat as customers sashayed in to meet Betsey Johnson and purchase her new fragrance. The Designer said she was “Beyond the beyond to have Too Too launch at Sephora,” and she praised Inter Parfums USA, which distributes Betsey Johnson Too Too, as being “true believers” in her fragrance. Andy Clarke, President of Inter Parfums USA, said Ms. Johnson is “an incredible partner as well as a visionary in both fashion and fragrance.”
DECEMBER The Fragrance Foundation’s “State of the Industry”
Betsey Johnson with her new fragrance Too Too
Inter Parfums’ Andy Clarke with Ms. Johnson
Steve Madden’s Zina Zegans with Mr. Clarke
CEW’s Women in Beauty With Clinique The Fragrance Foundation’s “Pop Your Cork”
Ms. Johnson greets a young fan.
Mr. Clarke (c.) with Inter Parfums’ Mary Ellen Myers and Kelly Como
BF NOVEMBER 2011 /
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BEAUTY FASHION
®
PUBLISHER AND EDITOR
212-840-8800 ext. 241 PRESIDENT AND CEO
ext. 234
jledes@beautyfashion.com
ext. 224
GEORGE LEDES
LINDSEY E. ADAMS
ladams@beautyfashion.com
DIRECTORY EDITOR
ext. 248
ADELAIDE P. FARAH
ext. 252
DEBRA DAVIS
JENNIFER DRUCKER
jdrucker@cosmeticworld.com
PHOTOGRAPHER
ddavis@beautyfashion.com
www.beautyfashion.com www.cosmeticworld.com
HOWARD BIEGEL
hbiegel@cosmeticworld.com
ART DIRECTOR
afarah@beautyfashion.com
ADVERTISING DIRECTOR
ext. 245
ASSISTANT EDITOR
gledes@cosmeticworld.com
GROUP EDITORIAL DIRECTOR
ext. 225
JOHN G. LEDES
ERIC MICHELSON
EXECUTIVE OFFICE 16 E. 40th Street Suite 700 New York, NY 10016 Telephone: 212-840-8800 Fax: 212-840-7246
BEAUTY FASHION EVENTS CALENDAR SUBJECT (A) Awards (B) Benefit (E) Retail Event (I) Product Intro
(M) (P) (R) (S) (T)
Meeting Press Trip Reception Seminar Trade Show
ADMISSION DETAIL (IO) Invitation Only (TA) Tickets Available * Phone numbers provided are for further information.
NOVEMBER 2
Fragrance Foundation Cocktail Party Celebrating Marc Rosen’s Book Glamour Icons Doubles Club • NYC 6:00 PM (IO) Cosmetic Executive Women Young Executive Committee Cocktails & Connections: Leveraging Business Relationships Union Square Ballroom • NYC 6:30 PM (TA) (646) 929-8026 www.cew.org
NOVEMBER 3
Fragrance Foundation Insiders’ Breakfast Hosted by Arcade Marketing’s Debra Leipman-Yale LIM • NYC 8:30 AM Members Only (212) 725-2755 www.fragrance.org
NOVEMBER 7 - 8
Sustainable Cosmetics Summit Hong Kong (T) www.sustainablecosmeticssummit.com
NOVEMBER 7 - 9
ISPA Conference & Expo Mandalay Bay • Las Vegas NV (T)
NOVEMBER 9 - 11
Cosmoprof Asia Hong Kong Convention • Hong Kong (T) www.cosmoprof.com
NOVEMBER 9
CIBS Members Only Luncheon Harvard Club • NYC 12:00 PM (TA) www.cibsonline.com
NOVEMBER 10
DECEMBER 3
NOVEMBER 15
DECEMBER 7 - 9
ICMAD Cocktail Reception at Cosmoprof Asia Hong Kong Convention Centre 6:30 PM (R) www.icmad.org
CIBS 64th Annual Holiday Ball Marriott Marquis • NYC 7:00 PM (TA) www.cibsonline.com ScentWorld 2011 Gansevoort Hotel • Miami Beach FL (T) www.scentmarketing.org/scent-world-expo
Fragrance Foundation Annual Career Fair Baruch College • NYC (212) 725-2755 www.fragrance.org
DECEMBER 9
NOVEMBER 16
Cosmetic Executive Women Women in Beauty Series - West Coast: A Conversation with Target’s Christina Hennington & Neutrogena’s Susan C. Sweet Fairmont Miramar • Santa Monica CA 6:00 PM (R) (S) (TA) (646) 929-8026 www.cew.org
Cosmetic Executive Women Beauty of Giving Luncheon Waldorf=Astoria • NYC 11:00 AM (B) (TA) (646) 929-8026 www.cew.org
DECEMBER 14
CIBS Monthly Luncheon The Manhattan Club • NYC 12:00 PM www.cibsonline.com
2012
NOVEMBER 17
Fragrance Foundation State of the Industry Luncheon Harvard Club • NYC 11:30 AM Members Only (S) (212) 725-2755 www.fragrance.org
NOVEMBER 30
JANUARY 31
Fragrance Foundation Hot Off the Press Annual Business Review NYC 8:00 AM Breakfast (212) 725-2755 (S) www.fragrance.org
Cosmetic Executive Women Women in Beauty Series: The Inside Track on L’Oréal’s Global Growth with Lancôme’s Silvia Galfo, Maybelline New York’s Carolyn Holba and L’Oréal Paris’ Nathalie Kristo Harmonie Club • NYC 5:30 PM (R) (S) (TA) (646) 929-8026 www.cew.org
FEBRUARY 9
DECEMBER 1
FEBRUARY 16
Fragrance Foundation The Celebrity Balance Sheet: Is It a Win-Win for Everyone? Panel Discussion with Dior’s Terry Darland, The NPD Group’s Karen Grant, Macy’s Linda Levy, Elizabeth Arden’s Ron Rolleston, & Firmenich’s Theo Spilka Time-Life Building • NYC 5:30 PM Members Only (S) (212) 725-2755 www.fragrance.org NOVEMBER 2011 /
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James E. Marshall OCD Foundation Beyond Beauty Dinner Honoring Maesa Group’s Jill Belasco, Kaplow’s Liz Kaplow, and Caroline Pieper-Vogt Union League Club • NYC 6:00 PM (B) (TA) (608) 845-3664 ICMAD Technical/Regulatory Forum Balboa Bay Club • Newport Beach CA (M) (847) 991-4499 www.icmad.org
FEBRUARY 20 - 23
Beauty & Wellness Exchange Montage • Laguna Beach CA (T) (203) 202-2576 www.ExchangeEvents.com/Beauty
CONGRATULATIONS SEPHORA CELEBRATES THE WINNERS OF THE 2011 CEW ACHIEVER AWARD
CONTRIBUTING editors&columnists CONTRIBUTING EDITORS
Italy Simona Barello simona.barello@gmail.com Fax: +39-06-59887673
Marc Rosen marc@mra-nyc.com
France Sarah Colton sarahcolton@sarahcolton.com Fax: 011-331-45885386
UK Lorraine Wilson-Morris lorraine@esprit-magazine.co.uk
Australia Andrea Ferrari andrea@esprit-magazine.com.au
Brazil Fernanda Bonifacio mfmbonifacio@hotmail.com
Germany Heide Kuhn-Winkler info@hkw-pressoffice.de Fax: 011-49-621-400-6065
Spain Julia Rossi juliarossi@hotmail.es
REGIONAL COLUMNISTS
Seattle, WA Mary Elizabeth Cronin tel.: (206) 284-8998 mecronin@mecronin.com
Atlanta, GA Toni M. Lublin tel.: (404) 874-6998 toni_lublin@yahoo.com
San Francisco, CA Raphaella Barkley tel.: (775) 849-7724 raphaellabrescia@msn.com
Colorado Hilary Martin tel.: (303) 499-6244 fax: (303) 499-6245 winedunce@gmail.com
Raleigh, NC Bridgette A. Lacy tel.: (919) 872-4234 bridgettelacy@att.net
Boston, MA Brittany Jasnoff tel.: (617) 262-9700 bjasnoff@hotmail.com
Chicago, IL Lisa D. Lenoir tel.: (773) 643-0238 lenol66@aol.com
Dallas/Fort Worth, TX Normita Joven tel.: (214) 504-6157 normita.beautyfashion@gmail.com
Washington, DC Bernadette Lacy tel.: (571) 451-4187 bernie368@gmail.com
Houston, TX Mary Sit tel./fax: (713) 973-6798 maryesit@gmail.com
Richmond, VA Emily Kirkpatrick eskirkpatrick@gmail.com
Los Angeles to La Jolla, CA Lynn D. Ludlam tel.: (760) 295-6999 lynndludlam@aol.com
www.robertpiguetparfums.com
Douglas Hannant’s inspiration has created a romantic bouquet that captures the essence of elegance.
Neiman Marcus • Saks Fifth Avenue
THEBEAUTYBIZ
Richard Ferretti has been appointed to the position of Senior Vice President, Global Creative Director for Estée Lauder. In this role, Mr. Ferretti will oversee all creative and visual aspects of the Estée Lauder brand globally, including TV, digital and print advertising, packaging, visual merchandising and store design. DKNY Fragrances partnered with Jeweller Martin Katz to create a million dollar fragrance bottle inspired by the new DKNY Golden Delicious Eau de Parfum. The Million Dollar DKNY bottle is currently on a world tour and was recently on display in travel retailing at Dubai International Airport Terminal 3. International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF) has published its first external sustainability report. The report, Sustainability: The Essence of IFF, describes the company’s sustainability strategy and outlines its accomplishments for its worldwide operations through the end of 2010. The company undertook an extensive review of its sustainability practices around the world and incorporated them into the accelerated strategy presented in this report. IFF intends to report on sustainability annually. Unilever has expanded its production facilities in Indonesia to help drive sustainable growth for the company in the fast-growing developing and emerging markets. The company has invested about €90 million to build a new, state-of-the-art personal care factory and to expand existing ice cream and personal care factories. Arcade Marketing and Mirrus worked with Firmenich to create a unique experience for all who passed by The Sensorium™ from Sephora and Firmenich in New York City. Combining Mirrus’ proprietary, removable, reusable material and Arcade Marketing’s various sampling solutions, ScentFX was created to engage consumers with scented graphics on the windows. NOVEMBER 2011 /
TPR Holdings has signed a worldwide fragrance license with Nicole Richie. Ms. Richie is Creative Director of a global fashion business that consists of the clothing and accessory lines, Winter Kate and House of Harlow 1960. Coty Inc. and the modeling agency Elite are in a partnership to develop and market a new line of fragrances set to launch in January. The collection will feature four fragrances that will embrace the alluring beauty and glamour associated with the world of modeling and fashion. The Fragrance Foundation encourages all eligible brands to enter the 2012 FiFi® Award “Indie” Category for Fragrance of the Year. The winner and finalists will be announced at the 2012 Elements Showcase on January 31 in New York City and the winner will also be recognized at the 2012 FiFi® Awards ceremony on May 21. Full details can be accessed at fragrance.org. The fifth edition of Luxe Pack Shanghai 2012 will be held at the Shanghai International Convention Center from April 3-4. The event will feature the Innovation Forum, a display of technological innovations and eco-friendly packaging, and the Luxe Pack in Green Awards ceremony on April 3. Sales of cosmetics and toiletries through alternate channels have exploded, growing by nearly $1 billion since 2005, according to the latest Beauty Retailing USA 2010 report by Kline & Company. More double-digit growth is expected as consumers are increasingly drawn to the convenience of at-home shopping to meet their beauty needs. BioGro New Zealand Ltd. is the first New Zealand-based certifier to provide natural cosmetic certification in Oceania following its recent accreditation as a NATRUE approved Certifier. New Zealand natural brand Trilogy will be the first skincare company to be certified by BioGro under this internationally recognized natural cosmetic standard. The Independent Cosmetics Manufacturers and Distributors Association (ICMAD) recently selected Y Public Relations LLC as its new public relations counsel. Gerresheimer AG reports a strong revenue growth of 9.9% to €285.1 million for the third quarter of the 2011 financial year. At constant exchange rates, the growth rate compared to last year is 13.4%. 16
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INDUSTRY EAR
The Fragrance Foundation has launched the “Olfactive Trends 2011-2012” course within TopNotes, its online, educational program. Future TopNotes courses will cover consumer buying habits, global fragrance preferences, new ingredients and new technologies in fine fragrance creation.
Napoleon Perdis appeared at Dillard’s/Green Hills Mall in Nashville, TN on October 15 accompanied by Napoleon Perdis Sales and Education executives. For a $50.00 purchase, Dillard’s customers received a GWP valued at $50.00, and for a $125.00 purchase, a GWP valued at $100.00. They could also buy a signed copy of Mr. Perdis’ book Forever Flawless.
Napoleon Perdis (c.) at Dillard’s/Green Hills Mall with Managers John Mitchell and Melinda Keffer
Mr. Perdis (c.) with Napoleon Perdis Sales And Education executives holding Mr. Perdis’ first book, Forever Flawless published by Allen & Unwin
Mr. Perdis (c.) with Napoleon Perdis Sales And Education executives greets customers at Dillard’s/Green Hills Mall.
Mr. Perdis gets a Nashville Police escort at the Dillard’s/Green Hills Mall PA.
On September 16, Condé Nast moved Lucky Publisher Michelle Myers to Brides Publisher. In turn; Brides Publisher Carolyn Kremins became Condé Nast Traveler Publisher and Gentlemen’s Quarterly Associate Publisher Marcy Bloom was promoted to Lucky Publisher. Steve Cohn, Editor-in-Chief, Media Industry Newsletter
MIN’S Monthly Boxscores Source: Media Industry Newsletter <<>> 2011. Title
YTD 2011
YTD 2010
1.71
974.22
971.94
0.23
148.45
-0.69
1,219.25
1,244.26
-2.01
249.57
323.99
-22.97
891.15
1,872.06
1.02
146.46
185.01
-20.84
1,248.46
1,315.30
-5.08
Harper’s Bazaar
208.81
246.11
-15.16
1,309.57
1,402.87
-6.65
InStyle
241.05
245.82
-1.94
2,054.72
2,043.65
0.54
Lucky
108.74
120.25
-9.57
891.00
947.65
-5.98
Marie Claire
166.53
187.37
-11.12
1,138.03
1,090.37
4.37
Vogue
260.22
222.06
17.18
2,124.64
1,946.95
9.13
W
112.17
101.91
10.07
887.05
844.58
5.03
18
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OCTOBER 2011
OCTOBER 2010
Allure
178.80
175.80
Cosmopolitan
147.43
Elle Glamour
% of Diff.
NOVEMBER 2011 /
% of Diff.
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on the avenue Swift At Macy’s Taylor Swift unveiled her debut fragrance, Wonderstruck, at Macy’s/ Herald Square on October 13. The event was streamed live to select Macy’s stores in the US. The 300 fans that purchased a special ‘Magical’ Package of Wonderstruck had their picture taken with Ms. Swift. The fragrance was launched by Elizabeth Arden. Taylor Swift shows off her first fragrance, Wonderstruck, at Macy’s/Herald Square.
On September 9, Thierry Mugler Parfums celebrated Nicola Formichetti, Creative Director for Thierry Mugler apparel, and his ever-growing talent and body of work following the opening of Nicola’s, BOFFO Building Fashion, Nicola Formichetti + Gage/ Clemenceau Architects’ temporary concept store. The party was at M1-S 52 Walker Street in New York City.
live in love At L&T
Makeup Suppliers’ Show
Arcade’s Cathy Griffiths and Cathy Leauby
Oscar de la Renta’s Alexander Bolen Mr. de la Renta with Lord & introduced Oscar de la Renta at Taylor’s Barbara Zinn-Moore Lord & Taylor.
Mr. de la Renta (c.) greets customers.
Mr. Formichetti (2nd l.) with Virginie Courtin-Clarins, Prisca CourtinClarins and Jenna Courtin-Clarins
live in love Oscar de la Renta launched at New York City’s Lord & Taylor on October 12. Oscar de la Renta greeted the Beauty Advisors and customers and told them the story of his newest fragrance.
Azilone’s Christine Menard, Anthony Heraud and Fran Cardiff
Following the successful Makeup in Paris show, the organizers, BEAUTEAM, replicated it in New York City on September 14 and 15 at Manhattan’s Studio 450.
FEED In The Hamptons
Photos by David X
Mugler Fêtes Formichetti Thierry Mugler Parfums’ Joel Palix and Clarins’ Jonathan Zrihen with Nicola Formichetti
NOVEMBER 2011 /
Ms. Bush Lauren (2nd l.) with Clarins’ Melissa Barrett, Tanya Pushkine and Maria Dempsey
Clarins hosted a cocktail party in honor of Lauren Bush Lauren and FEED’s partnership with the brand at the Hamptons International Film Festival on October 15. The event was held at East Hampton’s Nick & Toni’s. BF
FEED’s Lauren Bush Lauren with her mother Sharon Bush
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AT-COUNTER
PALM BEACH BEAUTÉ Beauty Fashion was invited by Palm Beach Beauté’s Sue Hochman, Senior Vice President of Sales; Joelle Guedalia, Vice President of Marketing and Joan Strubbe, Regional Sales Director, on October 4 to visit four malls in New Jersey where Ellen Tracy Bronze was launched.
Branching At Macy’s In New Jersey To Celebrate The Launch Of Ellen Tracy Bronze
10:30 A.M. Macy’s/Freehold Freehold Raceway Mall Freehold, New Jersey
Macy’s Cyndi DeMarco (r.) welcomes Palm Beach Beauté’s Sue Hochman and Joelle Guedalia to the store.
Palm Beach Beauté’s Linda Amato and Macy’s Jeanette Brown show the Ellen Tracy Bronze gift sets.
Palm Beach Beauté’s Jeanne Drennan (3rd l.), Joan Strubbe (2nd r.) and Sandra Lang (r.) with Ms. DeMarco, Ms. Amato, Ms. Guedalia and Ms. Hochman NOVEMBER 2011 /
Ms. Hochman joined Palm Beach Beauté continuing a successful career in the beauty industry. She describes the culture of the company as “different from the cosmetic and fragrance affiliations in her prior positions. Palm Beach Beauté is interested in concentrating on building retail and consumer confidence in our brands. I have been able to attract strong professionals in the field because our strategy is to slowly build each brand so they have staying power.” “I am happy to say that the people who currently work for Palm Beach Beauté in the sales department have all worked for me in a prior life. These true professionals are with me now because of this strategy of building the brands.” Ms. Hochman currently has Regional Directors in the Northeast for the entire East Coast, and in the Midwest, covering the entire Midwest; Palm Beach Beauté will add Regional Sales Directors as they go west. “We currently have Retail Sales Managers in both the East Coast and the Midwest. Since I have worked with all of these people at previous companies, I’m very proud to say we are a family; we work together. We have the same goals. We are very transparent with each other, and that makes us quite unique in the industry, as well as different from what I have experienced at other organizations.” According to Ms. Guedalia, Palm Beach Beauté is structuring the company to have three different categories. “One is acquiring brands, which will be owned by Palm Beach Beauté. Second, we will be licensing some brands. And, third, we will distribute brands that do not yet have a presence in the US and that need a good sales force team to promote them here. We are going to capitalize on everything we have—a good marketing department, a good sales team and a good structure of the three categories I have described.” “Palm Beach Beauté is really babysitting its brands very closely. Our vision is not to expand too quickly and to make sure that each brand has its own position as we build our brands with our retail partners. In our three categories, we have different levels of fragrances which will try to attract a diverse group of customers.” The display for Ellen Tracy Bronze at Macy’s was awash in fabric petals. Palm Beach Beauté’s Jeanne Drennan, Retail Executive, said, “Our Regional Sales Director, Joan Strubbe is known for her use of the petals as a sampling tool. They hold the fragrance well and the consumer enjoys this as something very special. The scent of the (Continued on page 46)
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AT-COUNTER
A Walk On The Line Side...With
THEBEAUTYBIZ
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ephora and Firmenich wanted to reignite the love of fragrance by creating The Sensorium™, a multisensory journey that is the first of its kind open to the public. This exhibit explores the emotion and instinct of scent through interactive experiences, compelling film, story-telling and three-dimensional art. It opened to the public on October 7 for a limited time in New York City’s Meatpacking District. “Our goal is to have Sephora’s consumers understand fragrance on a whole new level with The Sensorium™. It’s all about emotion and memory,” shared Sharon Rothstein, Senior Vice President of Marketing for Sephora. “We have been blown away by Firmenich’s work on what fragrance means. The Perfumer is a modern-day wizard who conjures up emotions with molecules. They are a hybrid of a bio- The entrance to The Sensorium™ chemist and a fine artist trained in the esoteric knowledge of crafting perfume.” “We hope that consumers will learn about the rich history of fragrance and fall in love with the dream,” affirmed Debra Butler, Vice President of Creative Marketing for Firmenich. “Firmenich has a rich history of inspiring industry partners with the magic inside fragrance through The Sensorium™. We are thrilled by the opportunity to work with Sephora to share The Sensorium™ dream with the people in a way that will educate about scent as well as illuminate its emotional impact on our lives.” The Sensorium ™ Lucid Dreams from the Sensory World is an interactive 4-D Scentsory exhibit. The Visitors to The Sensorium™ exhibit are reborn into a world of scent. visitor to the exhibit embarks on a journey of six encounters beginning with the backstory of creation and design revealing how we think, experience and interact with scent. Guests are then guided to imagine life without scent through real-life testimonials from people who have lost their sense of smell. Next, visitors are reborn into a world of scent that connects everyday actions and memories to scents that are integral yet often overlooked in their lives. An exposure to a factory of creation allows the guest to discover how molecules and extractions blend together to form a finished fragrance that evokes a unique emotion. At the end of the journey, visitors are seated at a Fragrance Bar where they engage in smelling unbranded scents to discover their preferences based on emotion instead of marketing messages or bottle appearance. Firmenich’s Armand de Villoutreys, President of Firmenich’s Debra Butler, the Perfumery Division, maintains “The Sensorium™ 30 Rock’s Jane Krakowski and Sephora’s Sharon is a fantastic effort and shows fragrance creativity in a Rothstein new way. It will contribute to the rejuvenation and reconnection of the consumer with fragrance, and Sephora’s Allison Slater, we are very proud of our partnership with Sephora.” Firmenich’s Jerry Allison Slater, Vice President of Retail Marketing Vittoria, Ms. Butler for Sephora, stressed that “we must continue to get and Beauty Fashion’s George Ledes at out the message about perfume. We want consumers the opening of to understand that fragrance is not just sex in a ™ The Sensorium bottle.” BF NOVEMBER 2011 /
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THEBEAUTYBIZ
THE SCENTSATIONAL WORLD OF THE SENSORIUM
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osmetic Executive Women (CEW) honored five, outstanding executives at the Waldorf=Astoria on October 14 at the 2011 CEW Achiever Awards. Each year, the peer-selected awards are bestowed upon top executives whose remarkable careers have influenced and impacted the industry. The 2011 honorees include Gina Boswell, Executive Vice President, Unilever Personal Care NA; Lisa Hawkins, Senior Vice President, Marketing, Education & Events, NA Dior Beauty; Leslie Marino, General Manager, Kérastase & Shu Uemura Art of Hair, L’Oréal USA and Barbara Zinn-Moore, Senior Vice President, Unilever’s Gina Boswell, Ouidad’s Ouidad and Lord & Taylor’s Barbara Zinn-Moore with L’Oréal USA’s General Merchandise Manager, Cosmetics & Home, Lord & Taylor. As they accepted their awards, each honoree thanked those who Leslie Marino and Dior Beauty’s Lisa Hawkins contributed to her success and imparted personal words of wisdom. “Earlier in my career, I would say working hard, being determined and refusing to take ‘no’ for an answer were the keys to success,” stated Ms. Hawkins. “But today, while those things remain important, success to me now boils down to love: loving what you do, the people you do it for and the people who you do it with. Success is always the outcome of teamwork.” Further recognizing the achievements of women, the Great Idea Award was presented to Ouidad, Founder of Ouidad, for her innovative curly-hair product solutions, and the Corporate Empowerment of Women (C.E.W.) Award was given to P&G Beauty & Grooming for its commitment to leveraging female talent.
P&G’s Joe Arcuri, Gina Drosos and Robert McDonald
Ouidad with IFF’s Nicolas Mirzayantz
CEW’s Carlotta Jacobson with Gurwitch Products’ Claudia Poccia and Avon’s Susan Arnot Heaney
LVMH’s Terry Darland, Ms. Hawkins and Pamela Baxter
Meredith’s Jeannine Shao Collins (2nd l.) with L’Oréal Paris’ Lisa Capparelli, Karen Fondue and Mora Neilson
Arcade Marketing’s Marine Ravera, Ashley Taliana, Tais Melillo and Andrea Hermida
Kaplow Communications’ Liz Kaplow with Shiseido’s Heidi Manheimer and Jadzia Tirsch
FIT’s Stephan Kanlian and Clarins’ Tanya Pushkine LVMH’s Jamie Seidner, Jean-Marc Plisson, (r.) with Allure’s Linda Wells and Agnes Chapski Adrienne Davis and Linda Maiocco NOVEMBER 2011 /
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CEW Honors Industry Leaders At 2011 Achiever Awards
P&G’s Jennifer Dauer, Brent Miller, Joanne Zucker and Li Chen
Robertet’s Joseph Lattarulo and Ray Hone
IFF’s Kristin Brunner, Tami Katz and Yvette Ross Elizabeth Arden’s Laurie Dowley with (r.) with Coty’s Aurelie Duriez Ms. Baxter and Ms. Darland
LVMH’s Nicholas Munafo and Jessica Barlow
IFF’s Julianne Pruett and Maria Virginia Beltrao
The NPD Group’s Rupert Walters, Diane Nicholson, Judy Sone and Lori Monaco
The Branding Clinic’s Kathleen Carroll with Bliss’ Mike Indursky and Deborah Marquardt of Maybelline NY-Garnier
Robertet’s Christophe Maubert Clarins’ Debbie Nuzzo with Elizabeth with Ralph Lauren Fragrances’ Arden’s Art Spiro and Marina Mamakos Guillaume de Lesquen of Inter Parfums
L’Oréal USA’s Michael Jorgensen, Emmie Salaj and Mr. de Lesquen
P&G’s Patrice Louvet with Cosmopolitan’s Kate White
Radical Skincare’s Rachel Edlich Samios and Liz Edlich Kinsella (2nd r.) with Beauty Fashion’s George Ledes and Michel-Henri Carriol of Trimex
Johnson & Johnson’s Star Walsh and Victoria Dole with Roberto Olivi of Firmenich
L’Oréal USA’s Marc Rey, Frédéric Rozé, Sarah Hibberson and Serge Jureidini
Firmenich’s Joy Atkinson and Jerry Vittoria (r.) with Ann Gottlieb of Ann Gottlieb Associates NOVEMBER 2011 /
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P&G’s Kelly Vanasse with Frédéric Fekkai
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P&G’s Shelly McNamara and Don Loftus
Gurwitch Products’ Kim Waite, Ms. Poccia and Ellen Greenwald
Coty Prestige’s Bob Taylor and Vanita Sabnani
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THELATESTLAUNCHES
A RENEWED CLASSIC
No19 Poudré from CHANEL is a re-interpretation of Gabrielle Chanel’s signature scent.
Gabrielle Chanel’s final fragrance creation was the one she deemed as her signature scent. Referencing her August 19 birth date, the scent was named No19. Its floral-green notes, deep and complex, created a scent that was both audacious and assertive. Jacques Polge has interpreted the iconic scent of CHANEL to create No19 Poudré, a modern treasure for the fragrance connoisseur. No19 Poudré begins on a floral note intermingled with crisp green woods. A precious powdery heart of iris dries down to a delicate base. The classic bottle is reflective of the grand perfume that is housed inside. The glass bottle is updated with a cabochon stopper in the shape of Place Vendôme. The deeply personal CHANEL fragrance remains true to its original wearer—resolutely modern, boldly sophisticated but ultimately sensual and feminine. No19 Poudré is offered in a 1.7 oz. Eau de Parfum for the price of $80.00 and 3.4 oz., $115.00. It is available at department and specialty stores and on CHANEL.com.
BEAUTY AND JOY
Oscar de la Renta introduces live in love, a reflection of the woman who lives each day with joy, whose life is filled with beauty and inspiration. live in love is an expression of Oscar de la Renta’s desire to make every woman feel like the most beautiful woman in the world. With live in love, Mr. de la Renta has created a scent for women to fall in love with. live in love begins on a note of sparkling ginger orchid and bergamot, merged with lush hyacinth, green muguet and galbanum. The heart opens up to reveal a floral note of jasmine sambac, orange flower and rose. Creamy white woods and sensual musk intertwine with amber, sandalwood and cedarwood at its base. The 1 oz. Eau de Parfum Spray of live in love is priced at $58.00. It is also available in a 1.7 oz. size for $78.00 and 3.4 oz., $98.00. A 6.8 oz. Body Lotion is offered for $49.00. live in love is available at Oscar de la Renta boutiques, select department stores worldwide and oscardelarenta.com.
LOVE NOTES
Vera Wang Lovestruck is introduced by Coty Prestige.
live in love from Oscar de la Renta
Vera Wang Lovestruck was inspired by a modern day twist on Romeo and Juliet. It captures the feeling of a woman struck by love and captivated by passion. A sparkling floral, Vera Wang Lovestruck begins on a note of pink guava, angelica flower and mandarin. A delicate mix of tuberose and lotus blossom dries down to a base of precious woods and sheer musk. The fragrance was created by Givaudan Perfumer Stephen Nilsen in collaboration with Doreen Bolhoffer. The Vera Wang Lovestruck packaging is young in spirit, yet classic. The square shape of the bottle is in contrast with the oversized cap, which features a bouquet of deep berry flowers and a tulle bow. The bottle was designed by Wilhelm Liden in conjunction with Coty Creative Director Jon Dinapoli. An ad campaign, featuring Actress Leighton Meester, is set in downtown New York City. Ms. Meester is seen leaning over a fire escape in a Vera Wang gown, awaiting the arrival of her Romeo. He races towards her with a bouquet of flowers for their Lovestruck moment. The ad was conceived by creative agency Laird + Partners with Creative Director Trey Laird. It was shot by Carter Smith. Vera Wang Lovestruck is offered in a 1 oz. Eau de Parfum Spray for $48.00; 1.7 oz., $68.00 and 3.4 oz., $78.00. The collection also includes a 5 oz. Velvety Body Lotion for $45.00 and a 5 oz. Silky Shower Gel, $40.00. It is available at department and specialty stores. NOVEMBER 2011 /
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Fragrances On File
GOLDEN HOLIDAY Issey Miyake introduces L’Eau d’Issey Gold Absolute, a new addition to the L’Eau d’Issey fragrance collection that evokes the fanciful spirit of the holidays. The traditional, clear L’Eau d’Issey bottle is available in a golden shade with a fragrance that corresponds with the joyful season. In a symphony of scent, the enveloping edition plays on festive notes. Orchestrated by Perfumer Olivier Cresp, L’Eau d’Issey Gold Absolute begins on a note of osmanthus with candied apricot and lotus. The sensual, feminine middle note consists of jasmine and lily which combine with amber and woody elements in the base. The L’Eau d’Issey Gold Absolute is offered in a 1.6 oz. Eau de Parfum Absolue for the price of $85.00. It is available at Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdale’s and Macy’s.
Issey Miyake’s L’Eau d’Issey Gold Absolute is introduced by Beauté Prestige International.
ROMANTIC ROSE Trésor Midnight Rose, the latest addition in Lancôme’s iconic Trésor fragrance family, embodies a mischievous sense of femininity.
Lancôme introduces Trésor Midnight Rose, a scent inspired by the romance of Paris at dusk—a time when the city is filled with those who engage in the exhilarating game of love. Created by Perfumer Anne Flipo, the scent begins on a tangy note of raspberry which adds sparkle to the petals of jasmine and peony and is freshened by blackcurrant bud absolute and intense pink pepper. Deep, intense ribbons of rose absolute form the heart while voluptuous vanilla mingles with musk and Virginia cedar essence for a captivating drydown. The sparkling scent is encased in a faceted bottle that blushes powder pink to violet, with an elegant satin rosette at the neck. Lancôme Ambassadress and Actress Emma Watson is the face of Trésor Midnight Rose. This is Ms. Watson’s first campaign since joining the Lancôme family. Shot by legendary Photographer Mario Testino, the print ad and television campaign evoke the free-spirited, 60s icon Jean Seberg. Trésor Midnight Rose is offered in a 1 oz. Eau de Parfum for $44.00; 1.7 oz., $56.00 and 2.5 oz., $75.00. It is available at Lancôme counters and lancome.com.
Eau d’Hadrien is distributed by Beauté Prestige International.
A HAPPY ANNIVERSARY
The House of Annick Goutal celebrates its 30th anniversary with a commemorative edition of Eau d’Hadrien. This limited-edition bottle is decorated with a series of symbolic charms designed by the renowned Parisian Jeweler Arthus Bertrand. This true collectible is sure to delight lovers of the fragrance and newcomers alike. The fragrance was created to capture the scents of the Italian countryside, beloved by the company’s namesake. It is composed of Sicilian lemon, grapefruit and cypress, notes which echo the beauty of the Tuscan landscape. The 3.4 oz. Eau d’Hadrien 30th Anniversary Limited Edition is priced at $120.00. The limitededition bottle and the entire Annick Goutal Eau d’Hadrien fragrance range are available at Barneys New York, Bergdorf Goodman, Bloomingdale’s, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom and Saks Fifth Avenue. (Continued on page 48)
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T All photos by Ellen Dubin Photography
he American Jewish Committee (AJC) presented its International Human Relations Award to Jean-Paul Agon, Chairman and CEO of L’Oréal at a gala dinner on October 3 at Manhattan’s New York Hilton. The award is in recognition of Mr. Agon’s “global leadership, vision and corporate citizenship.”
L’Oréal’s Frédéric Rozé, Lindsay Owen-Jones and Jean-Paul Agon with Macy’s Terry Lundgren and Publicis’ Maurice Lévy
Condé Nast’s Charles Townsend congratulates Mr. Agon on his award.
Bloomingdale’s Michael Gould joins Mr. Agon and Sir Owen-Jones.
Mr. Lundgren and Tina Lundgren with Mr. Agon
Mr. Agon chats with International Flavors & Fragrances’ Nicolas Mirzayantz.
In accepting the award, Mr. Agon declared, “the AJC and L’Oréal have much in common. We share similar core values. Ethics, integrity, respect, spirit of tolerance, acceptance of diversity are as much a part of your DNA as they are part of ours. They resonate with the humanistic approach that will always inspire our vision and our actions as citizens of the world.” “Most important are the very strong bonds of trust and friendship existing between L’Oréal and Israel,” he noted. “We are strongly committed to our continued development and investment in this country.” Today, L’Oréal is the biggest manufacturer of beauty products in Israel. Over 600 guests, some traveling from France and Israel, attended the event, which raised $1.35 million for AJC. During the evening, there were repeated references to and praise for the values and commitment to human rights that AJC and L’Oréal share. AJC’s Executive Director David Harris affirmed, “We are delighted to honor Jean-Paul Agon, an outstanding corporate leader and look forward to further strengthening our friendship and cooperation with L’Oréal. Its engagement with Israel stands out as a model for global corporations that recognize the intrinsic value of investing in and working with the Israeli people.” The AJC award was presented to Mr. Agon by Sir Lindsay Owen-Jones, Honorary Chairman of L’Oréal. He spoke admiringly of Mr. Agon, with whom he has worked closely for 30 years, and passionately about Israel. Sir OwenJones affirmed that the “support of Jean-Paul and the AJC on this special night encourages all of us to persevere in the hope that we may one day replace intolerance and hate with respect and dignity, that we may help to enrich the quality of life for all people.” He maintained that “the work of AJC has never been more vital. If ever there was a time to invest our collective energies to support initiatives that will allow the next generation to live in peace and harmony, it is now.” BF NOVEMBER 2011 /
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AGON HONORED BY AJC
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MCDONALD
RECEIVES 12TH ANNUAL CIRCLE OF CHAMPIONS AWARD Bath & Body Works’ Camille McDonald with The Fragrance Foundation’s Rochelle Bloom
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ach year, the Fragrance Foundation’s Circle of Champions Award recognizes an individual who has made a significant impression on the fragrance industry. This year’s honor was presented to Camille McDonald, President of Brand Development & Merchandising for Bath & Body Works, on October 4 at the St. Regis Hotel in New York City. Rochelle Bloom, President of The Fragrance Foundation, stated, “We honor those within our industry with passion and drive, and who have raised the bar for the companies that have put them on their teams—and for those that wish they had.” Don Loftus, President and CEO of P&G Prestige, set the jovial tone for the evening as Master of Ceremonies and Award Presenter. “Times have changed,” joked Mr. Loftus. “What was once an elegant evening has turned into a night of cruel character assassination.” While guests enjoyed dinner, Ms. McDonald was subjected to a lighthearted “roast” from Jerry Vittoria, President of Fine Fragrances NA for Firmenich; So Young Kang, Vice President of Brand Development for Bath & Body Works and Cosimo Policastro, Executive Vice President of Fine Fragrances for Givaudan. Aside from the jabs that filled the room with laugher, each “roaster” celebrated Ms. McDonald and her accomplishments. “You exceed all expectations with one blockbuster hit after another,” declared Mr. Vittoria. “You show you can turn the impossible into possible and it’s evident how much you inspire your teams.” Ms. McDonald accepted her award and stated how proud she was to work within the fragrance industry. “Apart from love, fragrance is the most powerful, invisible thing in the whole universe. How lucky are we to be creating and selling it.” She concluded the evening by stating that some of the proudest moments of her career came from her peers and thanked her team for being “funny, fearless, tireless and astoundingly talented.”
Givaudan’s Cathy Torelli with Ms. McDonald and Diane Crecca of Arcade Marketing
IFF’s Nicolas Mirzayantz with Nest Fragrances’ Laura Slatkin and Slatkin & Co.’s Harry Slatkin
Arcade Marketing’s Laura Freedman, Larry Berman and Lori Kalender
Mane’s Bertrand Dor with Coty’s Ruth Sutcliffe
Bath & Body Works’ So Young Kang (2nd r.) with Givaudan’s Piero Savio, Karen Elliott and Melissa Gambill
SGD’s Ashok Sudan, Schéhérazade Chamlou and Peter Acerra
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New makeup products add dash and dazzle to late fall/early winter looks.
LIP SERVICE
Lips slicked with CHANEL’s Rouge Allure Velvet Luminous Matte Lip Colour
CHANEL introduces the next generation of lipcolor—Rouge Allure Velvet Luminous Matte Lip Colour. It is formulated with ultra-thin, mother-of-pearl pigments, which deliver intensely rich color with a soft, matte finish. Lips feel smooth and comfortable with this non-drying matte lipcolor. Rouge Allure Velvet Luminous Matte Lip Colour comes in eight shades presented in a click-open case. They are each priced at $32.00. Beauté Des Ongles Top Coat Velvet produces a velvetysoft matte finish on nails. The limited-edition topper works with any and every nail color. It is available for $25.00. Both new color products are now at department and specialty stores and at CHANEL.com.
CHANEL’s Rouge Allure Velvet Luminous Matte Lip Colour and Beauté Des Ongles Top Coat Velvet
EYE LINE Estée Lauder and its Creative Makeup Director Tom Pecheux have created trendy color makeup that paints the eyes in graphic pigments. New Pure Color Cyber Eyes features eyeshadows in richly pigmented shades with a hyper-metallic finish, partnered with eye pencils and mascaras. Pure Color Gelée Powder EyeShadows are formulated with the “tribrid” system that allows them to be applied wet or dry. The “tribrid” Prisma Shine™ technology is an all-in-one liquid, powder and gel that delivers a bouncy, malleable texture. The shadows retain their unique structure and texture whether applied with a wet or dry brush and are long-lasting, non-fading, non-flaking and The Pure Color Cyber Eyes collection non-creasing. Available in six shades, they are priced at $24.00. Pure Color Intense Kajal EyeLiner with 70% pure pigments provides maximum definition with dramatic color. Two limited-edition and four permanent shades are $20.00 each. Sensual lashes can be brushed with limited-edition Sumptuous Extreme Lash Multiplying Volume Mascara. An oversized Extreme BrushComber™ delivers an Extreme Bold Volume Formula™ in three shades for $23.50. The Pure Color Cyber Eyes collection is now available at all Estée Lauder counters nationwide, at esteelauder.com and all major international airports.
Estée Lauder’s Tom Pecheux has created “eyes that are sexy and playful. I wanted to give women different ways to wear the look, anytime.”
BEAUTY WITH A BENEFIT
Lancôme’s Poudre Lumière in Golden Hat
Lancôme is not only giving the benefit of beautiful faces for the holidays but also the benefit of bettering the lives of children with autism. Lancôme’s Golden Hat Foundation Holiday 2011 Color Collection was named for the foundation founded by its Brand Ambassadress Kate Winslet. Ms. Winslet narrated a documentary on autism, and the child profiled in it wrote a poem titled “The Golden Hat.” She has also compiled a fund-raising book, The Golden Hat, and monies from the book and from Lancôme’s Golden Hat Holiday 2011 Color Collection will benefit children with autism. The collection includes Poudre Lumière in Golden Hat for $40.00, L’Absolu Rouge Lipcolor in four shades and Primer Base for $29.00 as well as Mini Le Vernis in five new shades for $15.00. They are now at Lancôme counters nationwide and online at lancome.com. NOVEMBER 2011 /
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SPLASHES OF COLOR
La Prairie’s Winter Wonders color story is a limitededition treat for the holidays.
HOLIDAY WISH LIST La Prairie has created the Winter Wonders color story for the holidays. This limited-edition makeup has been created by La Prairie’s Colour Ambassador Raychel Wade. The Winter Wonders collection features hints of champagne and pops of spicy crimson for lips, cheeks and eyes. The collection includes Cellular Treatment Liquid Soft Glow to create shimmery accents for a glowing complexion. Other products are: Cellular Treatment Eye Colour Ensemble in Les Wonders, Cellular Luxe Lip Colour in Winterberry, Cellular Lip Colour Effects in Cinnaberry and Champagne Glace as well as Cellular Treatment Powder Blush in Berry Spice and Champagne Frost. They range in price from $40.00 to $60.00 and are now at La Prairie’s doors.
LASHES AND LIPS
Maybelline New York’s Great Lash LOTS of LASHES Mascaradelivers full lashes in one swipe.
Maybelline New York focuses on both lashes and lips with new products. Great Lash LOTS of LASHES Mascara is now able to give the look of more lashes with the Great Little Grabber brush. This heart-shaped, elastomer applicator reaches all lashes to multiply their impact and coat them from root to tip. Available in three shades, it is $6.49. Cracked, dry lips are repaired with new Baby Lips Repairing Lip Balm with SPF 20. The key ingredient in the formulation, Botanical Cell Renewal Concentrate with Centella Asiatica as well as vitamins E and C, shea butter, Lips are softer and smoother after one aloe and camphor provide lasting moisturization. Baby week of use of Maybelline New York’s Lips Repairing Lip Balm comes in two Clear and four Baby Lips Repairing Lip Balm. Tinted SKUs. They are each priced at $3.99. Both new Maybelline New York products are available now at mass retailers nationwide.
ON THE TARGET Napoleon Perdis’ NP Set, exclusively at Target and at target.com, has added new products to the collection. “Whether it’s a flawless complexion or a show-stopping eye look, each of these makeup marvels will help you create runway glamour in an instant,” enthused Mr. Perdis. Skin is enhanced with NP Set’s Calming Pre-Foundation Primer and Brightening Pre-Foundation Primer. Brightening Pre-Foundation Primer has an anti-aging complex and a purple tint to brighten dull skin. Calming Pre-Foundation Primer in a green tint calms sensitive skin and minimizes NP Set’s Rainbow Eye Palette of shades redness with aloe and cucumber can also serve as eyeliners when applied with a wet brush. extract. They are $29.00 each. NP Set’s Eye Shadow Duos have long-lasting, silky formulas and are free of parabens and talc. They are available in six shades for $9.99 each. A Rainbow Eye Palette from NP Set offers a kaleidoscope of 15 shades for NP Set’s Eyelashes’ two looks— all-occasion eye options. It is priced at $20.00. Manchester or Copenhagen. NP Set’s Eyelashes create eye-opening looks with fun, flirty and perfectlyshaped lashes. They are $10.00 each.
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IMMUNOCOLOGIE ‘GLOW’
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Skincare Regimen Works At Cellular Level The New York City-based IMMUNOCOLOGIE™ LLC was formed to produce and market advanced skincare products, which use the Bio-Fermentation method of processing ingredients. IMMUNOCOLOGIE™’s Chairman and Chief Executive Officer is Manzoor H. Jaffery, a former CEO and Founder of Perfective Cosmetics, Inc. Mr. Jaffery has had more than 40 years of experience in skincare formulating and manufacturing; he was the first to discover the anti-aging properties of Glycolic Acid for which he was granted a patent. He developed a revolutionary line of oxygenbased products that are sold in prestigious spas around the world and has formulated and manufactured products for such brands as Bliss and Murad. Mr. Jaffery has developed proprietary formulations for Dermatologists such as Dr. Jay Barnett, Dr. Perry Robins, Dr. Robert Auerbach and Dr. Norman Orentreich. Educated and trained as a Pharmacist, Mr. Jaffery has focused on his work as a Pharmaceutical Chemist and has personally developed more than 500 unique cosmetic formulations. His latest discovery is the IMMUNOCOLOGIE™’s Bio-Fermentation process, which has been 20 Manzoor Jaffery years in the making. The Vice President of Product Development at IMMUNOCOLOGIE ™ is Laura Brewster who has been developing skincare products for over 30 years. Ms. Brewster was the Founder and creator of the Freeze 24/7 line of anti-aging products, which are sold at prestigious retailers. Freeze 24/7 won the Enterprising Beauty Award, which recognized the company for its innovation and entrepreneurial spirit. She has also developed products for Geomer, a skincare line for men and women. In addition to developing major skincare and hair care lines, Ms. Brewster has created private label products for QVC and HSN as well as several Plastic Surgeons and Dermatologists. The first product in the IMMUNOCOLOGIE™ regimen created by Mr. Jaffery in 2010 was the Treatment Crème. He formulated it to solve his own dermatological problems of hyper-pigmentation, dry and lifeless skin, loss of firmness and elasticity as well as fine lines and wrinkles. The incredible results he experienced from using ™ the product on his own skin motivated Mr. Jaffery to share this discovery with others. Mr. Jaffery and IMMUNOCOLOGIE ’s Laura Brewster at the dinner for the The science behind IMMUNOCOLOGIE™, he explained, is based on a method beauty press to introduce the that processes ingredients without cooking them, producing a powerful end result. IMMUNOCOLOGIE™ collection “The reason the product line is called IMMUNOCOLOGIE™ is because it helps with the skin’s own immune system. Because the skin is the largest organ in the body, it maintains its own immune system, and it’s imperative to help protect it.” “How can a skincare cream help with the immune system? It all has to do with the Reticulate of Langerhans Cells, which are white blood cells generated in the bone marrow,” Mr. Jaffery continued. “When these cells arrive at the epidermis, they develop small legs or den- Ms. Brewster speaks to the Beauty Editors about the ™ drites, which automatically generate an immune IMMUNOCOLOGIE range. response to the skin, if they come into contact with ingredients they don’t recognize. However, ingredients that have been through the Bio-Fermentation process are not considered a threat by the body, similar to the body’s readiness to (Continued on page 54) NOVEMBER 2011 /
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FGI’s Panel Of Retail Executives Reviews Current Challenges
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he Fashion Group International (FGI) and The Robin Report held a luncheon and panel discussion on September 22 at Manhattan’s NY Hilton to cover what it takes to win the consumer’s dollar, today, tomorrow and into the future. Robin Lewis, CEO and Managing Editor of The Robin Report, moderated a panel consisting of Iconic Brand Group’s CEO, Neil Cole; Warnaco Group’s CEO, Joseph Gromek and Gilt Groupe’s CMO and Founder, Alexis Maybank. The topic was “Is This A Recovery? Or As Good As It Gets?” Prior to the panel’s participation, Andrew Tilton, Senior Economist at Goldman Sachs, presented some hard economic facts on why our The Robin Report’s Robin Lewis, Iconic Brand Neil Cole, Gilt Groupe’s Alexis Maybank economy is currently in the doldrums. Mr. Tilton informed that 70% of Group’s and Warnaco Group’s Joseph Gromek the US Gross Domestic Product (GDP), driven by consumers and their discretionary income, has been diminished by the high commodity prices of oil and gas. The lack of recovery in the housing market has also contributed to the economic malaise. While he believes the worst may be over, Mr. Tilton sees a long road to a potential recovery.
FGI’s Margaret Hayes and Wendy D’Amico (r.) with Mr. Lewis
Hearst Integrated Media’s James D’Adamo with Fusion Brands’ Dana Kline and Ali Fadakar
LVMH Fragrance Brands’ Jessica Barlow and Cara Raffe
The panel maintained that it is important for retailers to have multi-channel capabilities to focus on more customers. They also believe the shopping experience must be made more attractive. If you deepen the customer’s experience, the more likely they are to spend. International business and emerging markets are providing opportunities for manufacturers. According to Mr. Gromek, 60% of what Warnaco sells is now outside the US. “About 30% of our business is in owner-retailers such as Calvin Klein stores.” Creating incredible products that customers really want will drive business, Mr. Cole said. “It’s not about price; the focus is on powerful brands.” Mr. Gromek agreed, adding that “if products are innovative and presented in a compelling way, consumers will spend.” According to Ms. Maybank, “inventory moves at a quick pace at Gilt Groupe. We sell new products with excitement. The customer’s spend is measured by how easy it is for them to shop. We give them information on how to wear fashion and create a new look. The information that they could get in a magazine is now available at Gilt Groupe.” She advises that every retailer should look at their Web site as a new flagship for shoppers. “Online conversations with customers help humanize the bricks-and-mortar stores. Mobile commerce allows the customer to shop on his or her turf and connect when they want.” Mr. Gromek agrees, noting that “Calvin Klein spends a significant investment in the social media in a fresh, young approach.” According to Mr. Cole, the bloggers are connecting with consumers and have become “the new critics. They are revolutionizing how we do our business.” Localization plays a big role in Gilt Groupe’s business. “We alert our customers to local promotions and connect them with local retailers.” Mr. Gromek added that “Macy’s and Kohl’s are doing a great job of sourcing for their stores according to regions.” The panel concluded by reminding that “want, not need, drives the consumer to buy.” BF NOVEMBER 2011 /
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CATCHING THE CONSUMER IN TODAY’S ECONOMY
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r. Ferdinand Storp and Dr. Andreas Storp, the third generation to lead the family-owned drom Fragrances, celebrated the centennial of their company by producing a book on its heritage as well as Insider’s Secrets, a book and exhibition with selections from their private fragrance flacon museum. The exhibition in New York City coincided with a gala birthday party for drom Fragrances. “drom Fragrances was founded in Munich, which i s n o t k n ow n f o r i t s fragrances,” shared Dr. Ferdinand Storp, President of the company with responsibilities for Europe and the US. “My grandfather, Bruno Storp, gave up a career in music, which was opposed by his family, to study pharmacology.” In 1911, Bruno Storp founded a cosmetics and pharmaceutical company, which The second generation of drom Fragrances, Dr. Bruno Storp, who joined the company in 1946, modernized production methods as well as spurred research in natural raw materials.
drom Fragrances’ first laboratory
e vo l ve d t o c r e a t i n g fragrances in 1921 when Perfumer Dr. O. Martens joined Bruno Storp to form DR.O.M & Co. In the mid-1930s, Bruno Storp and Dr. Clemente opened a perfume boutique. Eventually Bruno Storp’s wife, Dora, managed the boutique and made it a destination for fragrance aficionados, such as Queen Elizabeth of Great Britain. drom Fragrances’ President, Dr. Andreas Storp, who is responsible for developing the Asian market, affirms that
Dr. Ferdinand Storp welcomed guests to drom Fragrances’ centennial celebration.
drom Perfumers Enrico Mazzini, Corinne Cachen, Delphine Jelk, Alix Miral, Kevin Verspoor, Agnes Mazin, Pierre-Constantin Gueros, Thomas Crabalona, Anne Grauby, Barbara Zoebelein, Jean-Claude Delville, Valerie Garnuch, Alexandra Monet and Philippe Romano NOVEMBER 2011 /
Dr. Andreas Storp (r.) with Dr. Julia Schmidt
drom Fragrances is “a medium-size company where everyone knows each other. It helps to make us fast, flexible and more innovative [for our customers]. We give our Perfumers greater freedom to take artistic chances.” Ferdinand Storp adds, “There is a need for companies like us, which will work for smaller as well as big projects.” At the centennial celebration, Ferdinand Storp said that drom Fragrances was shaped by his grandfather, Bruno Storp’s philosophy: “There’s nothing like the joy you feel when you create an extraordinary fragrance.” Ferdinand Storp said “the driving force of my family’s company is based on freedom, independence and passion.” BF 34
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drom Celebrates TH 100 Anniversary
THEBEAUTYBIZ
The Pitti Immagine Fragranze N.9
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beauty mix of artistic niche perfumery as well as personal care and well-being products were showcased at the ninth annual Pitti Immagine Fragranze N.9 from September 9-11 in Florence at the Stazione Leopolda. The number of exhibitors rose this year to 194 brands compared to 180 at the 2010 Pitti Immagine. The show was organized as two sections—Spring and Charms—to cover the diversified brands. Spring is the area reserved for new names, lines of fragrance brands debuting on the international scene and companies new to the market. Charms is a showcase for selections from the world of accessories and lifestyle must-haves. The Pitti Immagine Fragranze N.9 is a fair of prestige creativity and innovation. While it was once the preserve of exclusive niche brands, the assortment has now expanded to growth-oriented and more mainstream companies. Some of the exhibitors at Pitti Immagine Fragranze N.9 include Robert Piguet Parfums, British Perfumer and Designer Heeley, Lorenzo Villoresi, Plum, Prudence Parfumeur, Juliette Has a Gun, Clive Christian, Bond No. 9 and Calé Fragranze d’Autore.
The Pitti Immagine Fragranze N.9 exhibits
Robert Piguet Parfums’ Joseph Garces (r.) shows visitors fragrances at his booth.
Lorenzo and Ludovica Villoresi
Plum is the first fragrance developed in 2010 by Makeup Artist Mary Greenwell.
Michael Edwards signs a copy of his book Fragrances of the World for a fan.
Différentes Latitudes’ Chiara Bernardin and David Frossard
Keiko Mecheri of Keiko Mecheri
Mr. Garces (2nd r.) with Celeste Parfums’ William and Antoinette Borsboom and their daughter, Virginia NOVEMBER 2011 /
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Prudence Parfumeur’s exhibit
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(Continued on page 54)
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ARTISANAL BEAUTY
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n September 21, Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW) hosted a Newsmaker Forum at the Harmonie Club in New York City featuring a conversation with Andrea Jung, Chairman and Chief Executive Officer of Avon Products Inc. Ms. Jung discussed the altruistic foundation of Avon and its strategy to remain relevant in today’s retail environment. “The rapidly growing beauty industry works hard to keep up with constant innovation in order to increase brand growth. New opportunities are evolving everyday, and Andrea Jung [has successfully worked to] maintain relevance at a 125 year-old company,” stated Carlotta Jacobson, President of CEW. In celebration of the milestone anniversary, Ms. Jung recently returned Avon’s Andrea Jung (c.) with Chrysallis’ Jill Scalamandre and CEW’s Carlotta Jacobson home from the final destination of the 16-city “Avon Believe World Tour,” which commemorated the history and achievements of Avon Representatives across the globe. “Our company empowered women 34 years before they were allowed vote, and as I traveled around the world in 2011, it was apparent that our founders’ mission for women’s empowerment still comes true.”
Avon’s Georgia Rizos with IFF’s Lorenzo Cavallaro
Gurwitch Products’ Claudia Poccia with Ms. Jung
LVMH’s Pamela Baxter with IFF’s Christophe de Villeplée and Dana Kline of Fusion Brands
Avon’s Lily DeStefano with Diane Crecca of Arcade Marketing
Firmenich’s Roman Poquet and Daria Holley (r.) Robertet’s Jérôme Epinette and Pierre Wulff (r.) with Clear Strategy Coaching’s Claire Steichen with Avon’s Michele Martinez
The NPD Group’s Caroline Pisaniello, Diane Nicholson and Susan O’Donnell
Johnson & Johnson’s Stefano Curti and Andre Taylor-Morris (r.) with Elysée Scientific Cosmetics’ Linda Marshall
PCPC’s Louanne Roark with IFF’s Veronique Ferval and Ms. Crecca
Established in 1886 as the California Perfume Company selling fragrance, Avon’s inventory has since expanded to include cosmetics, skincare, jewelry, fashion and home categories. With a presence in over 100 countries and more than 6.5 million Representatives, Avon develops approximately 1,000 new products annually. “Our business is done face-to-face and through online sales, so even if it’s easy for customers to refill their orders online, we want our Representatives to have consistent contact. We want them to say ‘I can show you something new.’” Where typical online shopping is impersonal, Avon Representatives impart authenticity. “It is marketing through trust.” (Continued on page 52) NOVEMBER 2011 /
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THEBEAUTYBIZ
Jung Discusses The Business And Beauty Of Avon At CEW Newsmaker Forum
Part III
H liday Gift Sets
THELATESTLAUNCHES
All Fortunes
Combining all good fortunes on one compact with the semi-precious stones of Green Malachite, Lapis, Tiger Eye and Rose Quartz, this compact is priced at $125.00 and available at all Estée Lauder counters. Love
compact is exclusive to Saks Fifth Avenue.
Luck
2011 Good Fortune Solid Perfume Compact Collection A luxurious citrinecolored Tiger Eye stone on the powder compact invites luck and wealth. It is available exclusively at Neiman Marcus for $65.00. Success
A future of great success is represented through the Purple Agate on this powder compact. The compact, exclusive to Neiman Marcus, is priced at $75.00. Happiness
The accents of Red Agate on this heartshaped compact signify love and passion. Priced at $65.00, it is available at all Estée Lauder counters. Prosperity
Exuding joviality and bliss, the Happiness compact is daintily accessorized with a Rose Quartz clasp. Priced at $65.00, it is available exclusively at Saks Fifth Avenue. Peace
For the price of $75.00, receive a golden powder compact with a touch of Green Malachite on the clasp—reflecting a future of abundant wealth. It is available at all Estée Lauder counters.
Priced at $65.00, the enchanting Blue Lapis clasp epitomizes peace and tranquility. The NOVEMBER 2011 /
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Beautiful Beautiful Love Heart The Beautiful solid fragrance is housed in the sleek compact for the price of $95.00. It is available at all Estée Lauder counters. Beautiful Luck Elephant by Jay Strongwater The Swarovski crystal encrusted elephant, with a citrinecolored Tiger Eye stone on its upturned trunk, contains the Beautiful solid fragrance. Priced at $295.00, it is exclusive to Neiman Marcus. Youth Dew Youth Dew Gold Coin A shiny, goldcoin compact contains the Youth Dew solid fragrance. Priced at $89.00, it is available at all Estée Lauder counters. Sensuous Sensuous Success Priced at $225.00, this lockand-key compact holds a
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solid formula of Sensuous. It is a Neiman Marcus exclusive. pleasures Happiness pleasures by Jay Strongwater Exclusive to Saks Fifth Avenue, the pleasures solid perfume is contained within a bloom of Swarovski crystals. It is priced at $275.00. White Linen White Linen Peace Branch The White Linen solid perfume is housed within a peace branch that is encrusted with Swarovski crystals and Blue Lapis. Priced at $195.00, it is exclusive to Saks Fifth Avenue. CLARINS FRAGRANCE GROUP A*MEN by Thierry Mugler Vibrant Masculinity Set
This refined collection contains all of the seductive power of A*MEN with a 3.4 oz. Eau de Toilette Rubber Spray, 1.7 oz. Hair & Body Shampoo, .7 oz. Mini Deodorant and a Thierry Mugler Signature Toiletry Bag. The set is priced at $90.00.
(Continued on page 53)
THELATESTLAUNCHES
ESTÉE LAUDER 2011 Good Fortune Metal Compact Collection Powder compacts include a refillable Lucidity Translucent Pressed Powder.
THEPARTYSCENE
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Bristol-Myers Squibb’s Dr. Elliott Sigal, StriVectin’s Melisse Shaban and The Skin Cancer Foundation’s Perry Robins
he Skin Cancer Foundation raised $640,000 at this year’s Skin Sense Award Gala to benefit their public awareness programs and research initiatives. The annual benefit honored Melisse Shaban, CEO of StriVectin and Dr. Elliott Sigal, Chief Scientific Officer and President, Research and Development at Bristol-Myers Squibb. It was chaired by StriVectin’s Chief Marketing Officer, Jill Scalamandre. The hosts of the event, which was held at Manhattan’s The Plaza Hotel, were Katie Couric, ABC Good Morning America’s Sam Champion and EXTRA’s Correspondent Jerry Penacoli. Guests were treated to a performance by Salvo Randazzo of the Italian TV show Italia’s Got Talent. Messrs. Champion, Penacoli and Randazzo have all battled skin cancers.
Mount Sinai Medical Shiseido’s Heidi Manheimer, Nicole Cardillo, Center’s Dr. Ellen Rita Mangan, Linda Ten Eyck and Maree Lavo Marmur with StriVectin’s Jill Scalamandre
Univision’s Julie Pinkwater with Meredith’s Jeannine Shao Collins and Jennifer Kalat
Gurwitch Products’ Claudia Poccia and Ellen Greenwald (r.) with Ms. Scalamandre
Rodale’s Mary Murcko and Laura Petasnick (r.) with QVC’s Claudia Lucas
Shiseido’s Carsten Fischer with The Sopranos’ Tony Sirico
Nars Cosmetics’ Louis Desazars and Macy’s Nancy Schmidt with Ms. Manheimer
Dr. Marmur with Katie Couric and Dr. Howard Sobel
Dr. Perry Robins, President of The Skin Cancer Foundation, gave the first award of the evening to The Skin Cancer Foundation’s Photobiology Committee, a group of volunteer Dermatologists who oversee the Foundation’s Seal of Recommendation program. It was announced at the gala that as of May 2012, all sunscreens holding The Skin Cancer Foundation’s Seal of Approval will be labeled either “Daily Use” for short doses of sun exposure or “Active” for prolonged outdoor activity. BF
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THEPARTYSCENE
SKIN SENSE AWARDS TO SHABAN AND SIGAL
E
very year, International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF) welcomes two fashion design students to its headquarters in New York City for a brief internship to learn about the universe of fragrances. They apply their fashion design skills to the creation of scents, the packaging as well as promotional campaigns. This year, the two student interns were from the Fashion Department of the Royal Academie of Fine Arts in Antwerp, Belgium. Wim Bruynooghe is beginning his Master year in the Fashion Department after his i nternship at IFF. Believing that art, fashion and fragrance are closely related, Mr. Bruynooghe maintains that the same concept can be translated into any one of them. The fragrance he created while at IFF is called Palmae and is intended for all. It combines green notes influenced by his love of nature as well as leather and wax drawn from his work in fashion. Playing on the design of Palmae’s flacon in the shape of a flashlight, the whimsical tag line he chose for the promotional campaign is “Palmae, The inner light of adventure.” Uruguayan-born Sol Alonso references the culture of her country IFF’s Veronique Ferval and Christophe de Villeplée (r.) with Wim Bruynooghe and Sol Alonso in her designs as well as the fragrance she created at IFF. Her juice is a blend of notes from nature, including the smell of the ocean. Ms. Alonso named her fragrance Improvise, because it conjures up “the freedom of unplanned days that become unforgettable.” She declared that the exotic scent is for those “with their feet on the ground and their head in the sky.” Improvise is presented in a Rubik’s Cubeshaped bottle with a pump in the top. The promotional campaign Ms. Alonso developed for Improvise has the tagline “Believe the impossible.” During his internship Mr. Bruynooghe reveals his fascination with hats in this presentation. at IFF, Mr. Bruynooghe learned that the businesses of perfume and fashion are closely related. “They need to cooperate with each other.” He also observed that the culture at IFF is like “a big family Ms. Alonso designed dresses cinched with leather belts that are all working together.” inspired by the South American Kayapo Indians’ tunics tied with In formulating a fragrance at IFF, Ms. Alonso found leather rope. it interesting “to build something other than a fashion collection. I didn’t know anything about developing a fragrance, but the process is similar to what we do in fashion design.” BF NOVEMBER 2011 /
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THEBEAUTYBIZ
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Fashion Design Students Create Fragrances At IFF
Best Of Beauty Awards’ 15th Anniversary
Allure’s Agnes Chapski and Linda Wells (r.) with Condé Nast’s Bob Sauerberg
Clarins’ Jonathan Zrihen (c.) joins Ms. Chapski and Ms. Wells at the Best of Beauty Awards reception.
Bare Escentuals’ Leslie Blodgett (c.) with Ms. Wells and Ms. Chapski
The glitterati of the beauty industry gathered on September 14 in the Allen Room of Frederick P. Rose Hall located in Jazz at Lincoln Center to find out who were the over 200 winners of this year’s Allure Best of Beauty Awards. The magazine celebrated the 15th anniversary of the awards, which cover beauty products ranging from makeup and skincare to fragrance and beauty tools. E d i t o r- I n - C h i e f L i n d a We l l s declared that the Allure Best of Beauty Seal guides consumers to make the best beauty choices. “The seal is the strongest endorsement of beauty today and moves over 85 million products a year. The consumer trust is based on Allure’s unwavering integrity.” The Best of Beauty Awards Allure’s Michelle Thorpe with Clarins’ Josie Maran Cosmetics’ Josie Maran with product winners, she continued, “are Maria Dempsey Bliss World’s Mike Indursky based on hard work and innovation.” Allure offers its top beauty picks in every consumer’s hands with the Allure Best of Beauty iShopper app. It is available now to download on iTunes. BF NOVEMBER 2011 /
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Allure’s ‘Beautiful’ People
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AND
LIFT OFF NEW VENTURE
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he Miami, Florida-based Fragrance Express LLC’s Travel Retail division has teamed up with SkyMall, the producer of a quarterly in-flight catalog, to feature fragrances and cosmetics for purchase. The SkyMall catalogs are found in the seat pockets of Air Tran, American Airlines, Delta Air Lines, Frontier Airlines, Southwest Airlines, United Airlines and US Airways. The catalog has an annual circulation of about 18 million copies reaching 650 million readers a year. Fragrance Express, one of the top five Internet fragrance retailers in the US, buys from over half of the fragrance industry manufacturers and offers consumers over 10,000 SKUs. Customers are able to find products that are no longer available where they originally purchased them, which, according to Robert Bartlett, President of Fragrance Express, “extends the life of a product.” Fragrance Express w i l l b e S k y M a l l ’s exclusive partner for all beauty products sold through the channel, which kicks off with the Holiday 2011 catalog. Mr. Bartlett noted that the presentation from Fragrance Express in future editions of the catalog will have a QR code on all featured items. “This code can be scanned while the passenger is on the plane. If WiFi is available, it takes them to a landing page where they can complete their transactions or look at other, similar items. Most planes will soon have reliable WiFi,” he Pages from Fragrance Express’ new section in the SkyMall catalog continued, “but if it is not present, passengers can scan the code, which will stay on their phones or iPad histories, so they can order at a later time from home or office.” When the passengers check out the landing page during their flights, they have browsing and decision-making capabilities as they review not only the top items in a brand but all of a manufacturer’s line. “They see the latest and greatest SKUs from the entire fragrance industry, all in one convenient place,” Mr. Bartlett declared. (Continued on page 55) NOVEMBER 2011 /
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THELATESTLAUNCHES
Out, dark spot. Garnier takes care of dark spots, skin discolorations and uneven skin tone with new Skin Renew Clinical Dark Spot Corrector. The moisturizer offers the highest concentration of pure vitamin C available at mass market. The formulation decreases the enzyme production that triggers melanin production, breaks up pigmentation clusters and accelerates cell turnover. Priced at $16.99, Garnier Skin Renew Clinical Dark Spot Corrector is available at mass market retailers.
Beautymaker Napoleon Perdis has created NP Set, a line of cosmetics exclusively for Target. NP Set’s skincare line prepares, repairs and protects the skin. The complexion is prepared with NP Set’s Purifying Facial Cleanser and Detoxifying Facial Toner. It is repaired and protected with Wake Me Up Day Cream, Rewind & Replenish Serum and Say Goodnight Night Cream. They range in price from $19.00 to $29.00. NP Set has introduced a Bath & Body collection of Body Wash, Body Lotion, Bath Salts, Body Polish and Body Spray. They are all free of parabens, sodium laurel sulfate, synthetic dyes and are 9% phthalate-free. The line ranges in price from $11.99 to $14.99.
Merle Norman’s Matte Oil-Free Moisturizer helps to minimize the appearance of pores and improve the skin’s texture.
NP Set’s Say Goodnight Night Cream and Wake Me Up Day Cream
SKUs from NP Set’s Bath & Body line
Merle Norman’s new Matte Oil-Free Moisturizer absorbs oil to keep skin looking matte and fresh all day. Its technology controls oil while hydrating skin, balancing moisture, absorbing excess oil and controlling shine. It improves the complexion and leaves skin feeling smooth and soft. The Matte Oil-Free Moisturizer comes in a 2 oz. size for $30.00 and is available now at Merle Norman Studios.
Dior Beauty presents One Essential Ultra-Detox Treatment-Mask. The serum-to-mask formula features the highest concentration of Dior’s exclusive One Essential skin boosting super serum that deeply detoxifies the skin whenever its cells are in toxin overload due to climate changes, jet lag, intense fatigue, stress or overindulgence. The product contains Detoxinyle™, a patented algae extract, which stimulates the skin’s natural recycling system to eliminate toxins, revitalize cells and boost the effectiveness of other applications of skincare products. Dior One Essential Ultra-Detox Treatment-Mask is priced at $95.00 and is now at dior.com. BF NOVEMBER 2011 /
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Dior One Essential Ultra-Detox Treatment-Mask instantly transforms into an ultracomfortable, melt-away mask.
THELATESTLAUNCHES
Garnier Skin Renew Clinical Dark Spot Corrector breaks apart and lifts away the pigmentation clusters that cause dark spots.
THELATESTLAUNCHES
G
ANT launches a new scent for men that captures the nautical spirit of the New England coast. GANT, a global lifestyle brand, traces its heritage to New Haven, Connecticut where Bernard Gant introduced a line of shirts in 1949. Today, GANT is a global lifestyle brand offering a full range of clothing for men, women and children, accessories and home furnishings. There are 650 GANT stores, 4 of which are in the US. In 1999, the Sweden-based GANT AB acquired the GANT brand from t h e P h i l l i p s - Va n H e u s e n Corporation. Although based in Sweden, GANT AB has remained true to its American GANT’s Susanna Wendt, Dirk-Jan Stoppelenburg, roots, noted Dirk-Jan David Arbuthnot and Douglas Geller Stoppelenburg, the company’s CEO. He joked, “Swedes are the WASPs of Europe.” The new GANT fragrance for men was developed by Robertet’s Perfumers Pierre Wulff and Jérôme Epinette. Inspired by the New England seacoast, it The nautically-themed display for GANT’s was formulated with notes suggesting the freshness of the ocean’s scent and the new fragrance for men woody aroma of boats. Mr. Wulff explained the juice is a marriage of Robertet’s finest natural raw ingredients with modern, synthetic notes. The fragrance opens with notes of Calabria lemon, coriander and Madagascan cinnamon bark. Its middle notes of Provence lavender, white Virginian cedar and marine accord are based on notes of suede accord, Australian sandalwood, North African cypress and black amber. Mr. Wulff believes that “the Perfumer and the bottle Designer should be linked together,” and he worked closely with Pierre Dinand, renowned perfume bottle Designer who created GANT for men’s flacon. The indigo blue bottle, produced by Stoltzle, captures a nautical theme with its solid nd Ms. Wendt (2 r.) joins Robertet’s Jérôme Epinette, Pierre Wulff and Christophe Maubert.
Stoltzle produced the indigo blue flacon designed by Pierre Dinand.
The advertising image for the GANT fragrance for men campaign
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molded glass surface design inspired by the wicker baskets on America’s bygone cargo sailing ships. It is topped with a Bakelite cap. GANT for men comes in a 1.7 oz. size for $65.00 and 3.4 oz., $89.50. The fragrance will be available in early November at GANT stores worldwide. It is sampled with a deluxe mini. “Everyone [globally] respects the roots of GANT as a first-generation of American sportswear,” explained Mr. Stoppelenburg. “We want to reinvigorate GANT’s heritage in the US.” BF
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THELATESTLAUNCHES
GANT SETS SAIL
FOREIGNCORRESPONDENTS
BRIEF
by Fernanda Bonifacio
Over the past decade, emerging markets have been at the cutting edge of the global cosmetic sector, and their sharp growth has overshadowed sluggish performances of traditional markets such as North America, Japan and Western European countries. According to recent data from Euromonitor International, Brazil has stood out among the crowd by recording the world’s highest growth rates in cosmetics, toiletries and fragrance (CT&F) sales. In 2010, the Brazilian beauty and personal care market recorded growth of 30.1% against an increase of 6.8% in Japan and 1.7% in the US. In addition, the rapid appreciation of the Brazilian currency (real) against the US dollar placed per capita consumption of CT&F products in Brazil just a few dollars short of the average annual spending of US consumers. In the next five years, Brazil is expected to show the highest growth among the BRIC markets, adding $13 billion to reach $51 billion by the end of 2015. This new era of domestic demand revolves around a massive increase of the lower-middle income base, especially in the northeast region. From 2002 to 2010, the so-called “C-class,” comprised of over 90 million consumers who earn approximately USD$4,200-7,200 a month, has grown from a participation of 26.6% to 45.6% in the domestic market. A survey conducted by research firm Data Popular also revealed that 53 of every 100 consumers of Bath and Body products belonged to the “C-class.” “There has been a marked rise in disposable income thanks to the increase in formal employment and the implementation of government programs, which have had a positive effect on consumption levels,” said João Carlos Basilio, President of the Brazilian Association of Cosmetics (ABIHPEC). “Nowadays, 33% of Brazilian households are headed by women, and they are greatly responsible for the boost in sales.” Mr. Basilio also explained that in the CT&F market, people do not always consume according to their social level. “Lower-middle class consumers can invest in a higher-quality shampoo or body lotion. In the automobile industry, for instance, that is much more unlikely to happen.” João Carlos Basilio of ABIHPEC NOVEMBER 2011 /
Focusing on this emerging socio-economic group, the country’s leading personal care retail company, O Boticário, has entered into direct selling with operations starting in northeastern Brazil under the Eudora brand. “There is an opportunity in the consumer goods sector, and we decided not to align this new brand venture with the O Boticário brand strategy, which will keep following its path,” said Artur Grynbaum, President of O Boticário. The company aims to gain momentum through the direct sales channel by capitalizing on O Boticário’s popularity, offering high-quality products at competitive prices. Its new distribution strategy is expected to compete with Natura and Avon, the two major players in Artur Grynbaum of O Boticário this business model.
The Eudora store at the Paulista shopping mall in São Paulo
Figures from the Brazilian Association of Direct Sales (ABVED) revealed that the direct selling channel accounted for almost one-third of all CT&F sales in 2010. Even though it is believed that direct sales tend to lose ground with the consolidation and development of retail, it is likely that this process will take at least another decade to complete. What is curious about Brazil’s growing consumption culture is that demand for beauty products is increasing at both ends of the price spectrum. While the “C-class” is driving sales of personal care items such as toothpaste, deodorants and soaps, there is also a flourishing prestige goods market being pushed by a new generation of higher
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FOREIGNCORRESPONDENTS
BRAZIL BEAUTY
REGIONALCORRESPONDENTS
REGIONALCORRESPONDENTS
by Normita Joven
SPOTLIGHTON
DALLAS BEAUTY
The launch week of the first scent from Vince Camuto lured fragrance fanatics to purchase the legendary fashion, footwear, and lifestyle Designer’s signature scent at Dillard’s Northpark Mall in Dallas, Texas. Vi n c e C a m u t o i s a major brand at Dillard’s, and the executives were ecstatic about hosting the Vince Camuto official launch and visual week for the Vince Camuto fragrance. “The Dillard’s family and the Vince Camuto family are a strong partnership, so it seemed it would be only natural to be the first retailer to launch Vince Camuto [fragrance],” said Mark Lantz, Fragrance Buyer of Dillard’s. “There is already a built-in success story with the Dillard’s world and Vince Camuto, so we are many steps ahead of the competition, and we expect it will be one of our top launches in the fall.” During her recent video training session on August 12, Pam Christian, Regional Sales Director of Parlux Fragrances, described the Vince Camuto marketing toward the fashion-forward and trendy socialites. “It is polished, feminine, rich, sensual and effortlessly chic,” said Ms. Christian. “It is a fragrance that captures the essence of the modern American woman’s lifestyle—independent and confident; accessible yet luxurious.” The Vince Camuto fragrance collection consists of an Eau de Parfum Spray in 1.7 oz. and 3.4 oz. sizes, and a 5 oz. Body Lotion. “It’s sophistication with an edge,” Mr. Lantz affirmed. The fragrance was strategically launched two weeks a f t e r t h e Vi n c e Camuto personal appearance at the Dillard’s Northpark Dillard’s Priscilla Arredondo and Adam store for the introStanley welcome Dillard’s customers to duction of the Vince the Vince Camuto fragrance launch. NOVEMBER 2011 /
Dillard’s Mark Lantz with Parlux Fragrances’ Pam Christian in front of the Vince Camuto visual display
Camuto Sportswear line. Ms. Christian informed that the fragrance was pre-sold that day, and they were told by Vince Camuto customers that the scent was going to become their signature fragrance. With over 30 years of industry experience in fashion, footwear, and now the fragrance, Mr. Camuto has established a major lifestyle brand and has created an enduring legacy for others to follow.
Parlux Fragrances’ Lynn Robinson and Tiffany Russell (r.) with Mr. Lantz, Ms. Christian, Ms. Arredondo and Mr. Stanley
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Mr. Camuto with his wife Louise (l.) and Ms. Christian
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A Walk On The Line Side...With PALM BEACH BEAUTÉ (continued from page 22) exotic, intoxicating and very feminine fragrance draws the consumer in.” “We’re doing a layering event at the display where we feature the Ellen Tracy Bronze Body Lotion,” Ms. Drennan explained. “We like to put lotion on one of the petals so the customer can put it on their skin. They love to experience the fragrance and enjoy the feel of the lotion without applying it with their fingers.” At the display is the 10 ml Ellen Tracy Bronze Eau de Parfum purse spray, which is an extra incentive with the promotions. “It’s great for traveling.” She pointed out the beautiful gift sets, priced at $79.50 and valued at $130.00. “People love them because they have all of our layering products—Body Lotion, Shower Gel, purse sized Eau de Parfum Spray and, of course, our 3.4 oz. Eau de Parfum.”
11:45 A.M. Macy’s/QuakerBridge QuakerBridge Mall Lawrenceville, New Jersey
Macy’s Regina Grinberg (c.) with Ms. Guedalia and Ms. Hochman
“Selling fragrances is different from skincare and color cosmetics,” she declared. “A woman needs a moisturizer or an eyeshadow. She may have a multitude of fragrances at home; why does she need another one? You must organize your thoughts to impart them effectively to the customer. That is why it is important for the Selling Assistant, as we refer to them in our company, to gain the confidence of the potential customer. As the consumer is experiencing the fragrance, the Selling Assistant may add such comments as, ‘I love that scarf around your neck.’ Or comment to the gentleman with her, ‘Oh, she is so attractive. You really should get her something special and here it is.’ First gain her loyalty. Once you do, it’s so much easier to close the sale, and regardless of anything else, closing the sale is what we want to do.” “On our marketing side,” Ms. Guedalia declared, “we are creating the story of the brand and the romance of the fragrance. Each fragrance is very personal, and we make it personal to that customer. We give the Selling Assistants the tools to hook the customer to the fragrance by telling the story.” In her PR role assisting Palm Beach Beauté with its public relations efforts or in training for new product launches, Sandra Lang believes “you must create the excitement and the motivation to get people enthused and passionate about a fragrance. Part of the excitement is achieving a goal with our team. Our Selling Assistants in the stores were very eager to learn about Ellen Tracy Bronze. It’s very important to share the DNA of the brand with them, so they can effectively and confidently engage with our consumer and sell-through the Ellen Tracy Bronze fragrance.”
1:30 P.M. Macy’s/Menlo Park Menlo Park Mall Edison, New Jersey
Palm Beach Beauté’s Bertram Katkov joins Ms. Strubbe and Ms. Drennan at-counter.
Ms. Hochman maintains, “Palm Beach Beauté’s sales organization is founded on one belief: selling is theater. We have to engage the consumer, gain her confidence, entertain her and then close the sale. Once we’ve accomplished all of that, our business will continue to increase.” She advised that these beliefs “are nothing new. This is just good old-fashioned experience.” NOVEMBER 2011 /
Macy’s Lisa Curcio (c.) with Ms. Hochman and Ms. Guedalia at the Ellen Tracy Bronze display
“Beauty Advisors are our key liaison between our business and the customer,” affirmed Macy’s Lisa Curcio, Regional Cosmetics Merchandising Director. “Their training is of the utmost importance, and our vendor partners like Palm Beach Beauté have better educated them to talk to the wonderful notes of the Ellen Tracy fragrances and
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to communicate all of that to the customer for a great shopping experience” Ms. Curcio maintains that Macy’s/Menlo Park has “come a long way. We are a destination mall now and have great special events. There are three points that drive the customer to the counter: animation, customer experience and Beauty Advisor knowledge.”
3:30 P.M. Macy’s/Woodbridge Woodbridge Mall Woodbridge, New Jersey
Ms. Hochman (r.) discusses the launch of Ellen Tracy Bronze with Macy’s Sally Potter and Jin Liu
Ms. Strubbe and Ms. Drennan (r.) flank Macy’s Sharon Williams and Jason Leshnower
Macy’s Arlene Sherman (3rd l.) joins Ms. Lang, Ms. Hochman, Ms. Drennan, Ms. Potter, Ms. Strubbe and Ms. Liu at the display for Ellen Tracy Bronze.
Palm Beach Beauté’s Mari Jeanne Raulerson, Macy’s Barbara Pinho, Gioa Masterpalo (2nd r.) and Mr. Leshnower (r.) with Ellen Tracy’s Robin DeCarlo
“With all of the new competition—the Internet and all of the Omni channels—the animation and excitement that we can bring to a customer in our stores will put us in a better position to get their business and to excel in the fourth quarter,” she explained. “The customer is looking for a shopping experience when they come to our stores, so we want to make sure that we can provide it for them.” She describes her relationship with the team at Palm Beach Beauté as having “grown over the years. I have worked with many on the Palm Beach Beauté team in their other capacities, so I know them very well. They are the biggest boosters of our business. Whenever we need anything for in-store support, they are ready, willing and able to provide it. I have never once had an issue with anything they have brought to the table.” The Ellen Tracy fashions play a synergistic role in creating brand recognition for the Ellen Tracy fragrances. “There is huge name recognition for Ellen Tracy in this area,” noted Robin DeCarlo, Merchandiser for Ellen Tracy Ready-ToWear at Macy’s/Menlo Park. She said that marketplace extends “from northern to southern New Jersey.” NOVEMBER 2011 /
“Ellen Tracy Bronze has really made a retail impression on the diverse stores we toured today,” informs Ms. Strubbe. “[The promotions] are successful because we do our retail events by partnering with the stores and the people to sell-through. For example,” she continued, “if a customer goes to buy a bronzer in Macy’s Impulse Shop, Ellen Tracy Bronze is there to complete her look. That’s our customer—bold, sexy and trendy. By partnering with other people and events in the store, we make Ellen Tracy Bronze a success.” Macy’s Jin Liu, District Merchant Cosmetics praises Palm Beach Beauté’s team including Ms. Drennan “who has been a great partner for us. We work together very well. Jeanne has brought a good work ethic to Palm Beach Beauté. She is a great ambassador for the brands, and we learn from her.” Ms. Liu saves special praise as well for the Beauty Advisors. “They are the true assets of our company and bring their expertise, their personal touch and passion to the business.” She shares that “not everybody can sell. When we hire, we do not hire for experience. We hire for the right attitude, and then we can train them to sell.” BF
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Fragrances On File
(continued from page 27)
AMBER GLOW
New York Amber by Bond No. 9
New York Amber is the latest scent from Bond No. 9 to capture the spirit of the city. The scent begins on a spice note that includes saffron, nutmeg and white peppercorns and lightened with a zesty bergamot. A classic bouquet of majestic rose, jasmine and osmanthus dries down to a base of a warm amber enhanced by oud, sandalwood, musk, benzoin tears and myrrh. The New York Amber bottle design marks Bond No. 9’s first use of old-fashion script as a design element. The translucent amber glass surface is covered with diagonal, looping cursive lines with the name of the scent. The bottle features the Bond No. 9 signature token logo at the bottom right of the bottle. New York Amber is available in a 50 ml size for $180.00 and 100 ml, $310.00. It is sold at Bond No. 9’s six New York stores, select branches of Saks Fifth Avenue and bondno9.com.
FLORAL GLAMOUR Tom Ford introduces Violet Blonde, a fragrance that evokes unabashed, feminine elegance. The scent revives the glamorous past of perfumery, when the most expensive ingredients in the world were crafted into signature scents of sophisticated beauty. Violet Blonde opens with a sparkling expression of opulence as violet leaf is supported by Italian mandarin and baie rose to create a green-citrus first impression. Aged and distilled in a years-long process in the hills of Florence and Siena, Tuscan orris absolute and Tuscan orris butter are introduced into the heart along with jasmine sambac. The soft and sumptuous base allows the violet-orris relationship to deepen and evolve as the fragrance is worn with a medley of benzoin, Cedarwood Oppur ™, Haitian vetiver absolute, musk and soft suede. The fragrance has a warm cognac hue. It is packaged in a transparent version of the fire-polished and ribbed glass bottle that has become a Tom Ford fragrance hallmark. A gold plaque, debossed with the Tom Ford logo and Violet Blonde name, is riveted to the bottle. The glossy, deep-violet carton is ribbed to match the bottle’s texture. A golden-stamped plaque on the front and the golden TF logo on the top provide a contrast to the saturated violet color. Tom Ford Violet Blonde is offered in a 50 ml bottle for the price of $100.00. It is available at Saks Fifth Avenue, Bergdorf Goodman and other select specialty stores.
Violet Blonde by Tom Ford reveals a new facet of violet— ravishing, sensual and elegant.
ROSE GARDEN
The A DOZEN ROSES collection
The A DOZEN ROSES fragrance collection was inspired by the emotions that only a rose evokes. The modern, eclectic, sexy collection was created from a passion for art, pure perfumery and unique fragrance bottle design. Each fragrance is imbued with 100% natural rose absolute essence wrapped in a complex, sophisticated and modern creation. Original artwork, showcased on the front and back of each fragrance bottle, pays homage to the beauty of the rose. The collection includes three unique fragrances: the warm SHAKESPEARE IN LOVE; the sexy, rich GOLD RUSH and the effervescent ICED WHITE. Available at Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman, neimanmarcus.com and bergdorfgoodman.com; each 3.4 oz. fragrance retails for $95.00. BF NOVEMBER 2011 /
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MCDONALD RECEIVES
12TH ANNUAL CIRCLE OF CHAMPIONS AWARD (continued from page 29)
E C Scott Group’s Hugh Winters and Mark Scott (r.) with Aramis & Designer Fragrances’ Carol Russo
Ms. McDonald with Debbie Nuzzo of Clarins
Firmenich’s Armand de Villoutreys and Jerry Vittoria (r.) with Henry De Monclin of HDM Design Lab
Suzanne Martin with Cutler Whitman of Fragrance Resources
Mane’s Frederic Jacques and Thierry Trotobas with Stephane de la Faverie of Aramis & Designer Fragrances
Givaudan’s Cos Policastro with Ann Gottlieb of Ann Gottlieb Associates
Cosmopolitan’s Donna Kalajian Lagani and Sue Katzen (r.) with P&G Prestige’s Don Loftus
Takasago’s Jaime Call, Bill Evans and Linda Romberger
Arcade Marketing’s Marine Ravera with Clarins’ Tanya Pushkine and Jill Liebmann
Firmenich’s Harry Fremont, Honorine Blanc and Hervé Pierini
IFF’s Laurent Le Guernec, Olivier Delcour and Lorenzo Cavallaro with Ms. Bloom (2nd r.)
Mr. Berman with Elizabeth Arden’s Art Spiro and Arcade Marketing’s Rich Nightingale
Fragrance Resources’ Donna Harrington with Mane’s Jim Krivda and Ellen Molner
Robertet’s Jérôme Epinette and Pierre Wulff (r.) with Yves Calderon of Limited Brands
Aramis & Designer Fragrances’ Andrea Goris with Saks Fifth Avenue’s Deborah Walters and Lord & Taylor’s Barbara Zinn-Moore
Limited Brands’ Tom Knotek and Benedicte Bron (2nd r.) with Mr. Pierini and Mr. Vittoria
Beauty Fashion’s George Ledes with Ms. Russo and Bloomingdale’s Howard Kreitzman
NOVEMBER 2011 /
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BF
SPLASHES OF COLOR (continued from page 31)
BRIT-STYLE BEAUTY
Glam’Eyes HD Eyeshadow won’t crease or smudge.
Rimmel London’s Volume Flash ScandalEyes Mascara helps lashes appear up to 12 times fuller and exaggerated.
Rimmel London has created high impact makeup for eyes, lips and face. Lashes get plumped with new Volume Flash ScandalEyes Mascara. The formulation’s high content of collagen and keratin is delivered with a flexible, new MaxDensity brush that is 50% bigger than any of Rimmel’s other mascara wands. Volume Flash ScandalEyes Mascara comes in two shades for $6.99. Bold, multi-reflective pigments are offered in new Glam’Eyes HD Eyeshadow. The dual-use shadows work wet or dry and last up to ten hours. Eight shades of Glam’Eyes HD Eyeshadow are each priced at $5.99. Cheeks are flushed with new Match Perfection 3 Tone Blush. The threein-one blush features Smart-Tone technology that adapts to each unique skin tone, and blue sapphire pigments produce color true to each skin tone. Four shades of Match Perfection 3 Tone Blush are $4.97. Rimmel has developed new Exaggerate Eye Liner, a liquid liner with an ultra-fine felt It’s easy tip. The tip deposits intense pigment for a bold, exact application. The formulation to sculpt facial contours with contains sorbitol and glycerin for a gentle, moisturizing blend that is easy on the eyes. Match Perfection 3 Tone Blush. Exaggerate Eye Liner comes in Black for $6.00. There are new shades of Stay Matte Powder, Exaggerate Lip Liner, 1000 Kisses Stay-On Lip Liner, Moisture Renew Lipgloss and Moisture Renew Lip Colour. They range in price from $3.59 to $7.29. All of the Rimmel London makeup is at chain drug stores and mass retailers nationwide, and Match Perfection 3 Tone Blush is at Walmart. Clinique Chubby Sticks are formulated with butters, oils and anti-oxidants to help protect and pamper lips.
COLOR CRAYONS
Clinique’s Chubby Stick Moisturizing Lip Colour Balm has now been offered at Travel Retailing. The sleek sticks have been packaged in a shade-matched, crayon-esque carrier. The eight shades offered range from nudes to pinks and deep purples. They are available for a limited time exclusively at Clinique counters in Travel Retailing.
DRAMA IN COLOR
Merle Norman’s Eyecolor Quad in Winter Eyes 1 and Winter Eyes 2
Merle Norman’s Winter 2011 Color Collection features smoky, sophisticated eyes, dramatic lips and cheeks that are lightly blushed. The collection includes Eyecolor Quad/ Winter Eyes 1, Eyecolor Quad/Winter Eyes 2 and new shades of Color Max Eye Pencil, Lasting Cheekcolor, Lip Pencil, Lip Pencil Plus, Creamy Lipcolor, Age Defying Lipcolor and Lip Polish. The Winter 2011 Color Collection is available now at Merle Norman Studios nationwide. NOVEMBER 2011 /
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Merle Norman’s lip makeup is offered in reds and burgundies
THE GOLDEN RULE Christian Dior considered gold as the ultimate symbol of true luxury and featured it in his fashions and in cosmetic and fragrance packaging. The Dior Les Rouges Or – Holiday Look 2011 continues that influence of opulence. The Les Rouges Or Collection includes lipstick shades infused with golden powder. They are priced at $32.00. The Or Vernis Collection offers four shades of nail varnishes for $22.00. The 5-Couleurs Gold Infused Palette in Couture Gold is $59.00. They are available now at dior.com.
The Dior Les Rouges Or – Holiday Look 2011 is on the gold standard.
The Lookout Les Ombres de Nuit 4-Colour Palette from Guerlain’s Holiday Color Collection 2011 “Belle de Nuit”
Guerlain’s Holiday Color Collection 2011 “Belle de Nuit” features Vol de Nuit Perfumed Shimmer Powder for Face & Body, Parure de Nuit Pressed Powder & Blush, Météorites de Nuit, Les Ombres de Nuit 4-Colour Palette and Rouge Automatique. They range in price from $35.00 to $87.00 and are now at select locations of Saks Fifth Avenue, Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus, Sephora, Bloomingdale’s and Bergdorf Goodman.
M·A·C partners with London Designer Gareth Pugh in an esoteric experimentation into makeup.
Gareth Pugh for M·A·C is a new collection of makeup in futuristic yet primal shades in custom geometric packaging. It ranges in price from $15.00 to $75.00 and is available at M·A·C locations.
Laura Geller Light Beam Lip Glosses
Laura Geller gears up for the holidays with a Festive Treats collection of Light Beams Lip Glosses. Other holiday SKUs are Femme Fatale Antique Lace; Baked Eye Shadow Trio; Eye, Eye, Eye! Baked Marble Eyeshadows and Smoke and Ice collection. They range in price from $39.00 to $147.00 and are now available at QVC and QVC.com. BF NOVEMBER 2011 /
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Jung Discusses The Business And Beauty Of Avon At CEW Newsmaker Forum (continued from page 36)
Albea’s Elizabeth Forsyth and Avon’s Daniel Kline with Clinique’s Ukachi Anonyuo, Schwan Cosmetics’ Thomas Krasser and Monica Estrada of Vitro
Avon’s Kelly Harte, Tracy Haffner and Joe Billone
Arcade Marketing’s Debra Leipman-Yale and Ms. Crecca (r.) with Firmenich’s Jerry Vittoria
Firmenich’s Joy Atkinson with The Avon Foundation for Women’s Carol Kurzig
Fashion Group International’s Margaret Hayes with Ms. Marshall
Rodale’s Mary Murcko with Shiseido’s Heidi Manheimer and Ms. Scalamandre
Avon has adapted to technological advancements to remain relevant. “The perception is that direct selling is more antiquated than it is.” Ms. Jung stated. “But the reality is that it’s different today. We had to combine technology with direct selling. High tech had to marry high touch.” Today, approximately 70% of the company’s Representatives are using the Internet for their businesses. Apps for smartphones are also in development. Along with online business, Avon currently has a combined total of 2 million fans on Facebook and followers on Twitter, and in Europe, the company is currently testing out its own social networking site. Avon’s philanthropic effort is one of its central pillars. Through 2010, Avon has raised over $800 million for charity with a focus on two major platforms: raising awareness for domestic violence and breast cancer. Ms. Jung proudly announced it was an Avon-funded clinic that had detected her own mother’s breast cancer three years ago. As one of the longest-serving female CEOs, Ms. Jung anticipates maintaining her role at one of the most influential companies worldwide. “Many CEOs see business as a game, but it isn’t a sport for me. It has been a love affair,” affirmed Ms. Jung. “I still feel like I went into the Peace Corps [an ambition Ms. Jung had early in her career] with all the good that Avon does.”
Elizabeth Arden’s Francine Gingras, Givaudan’s Alison Chaneski and Prevention’s Laura Petasnick with The Estée Lauder Companies’ Thia Breen, Scott Beattie and Kathy Widmer Ms. Murcko and Catherine Barber of Clinique
Givaudan’s Cosimo Policastro and Ms. Chaneski Robertet’s Jennifer Powderly with The Ace with Avon’s Eileen Higgins Group’s Theresa Sutton and Ginny Pati of Avon
NOVEMBER 2011 /
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Avon’s Julie Tatarczuk with Mr. Vittoria and Ms. Haffner
Avon’s Susan Arnot Heaney and Nancy Glaser (r.) with Ms. Poccia
BF
H liday Gift Sets MUGLER COLOGNE by Thierry Mugler Seductive Energy Set
For the price of $65.00, receive a 3.4 oz. Eau de Toilette Spray and 4.4 oz. Hair & Body Shampoo and Thierry Mugler Toiletry Bag. INNOCENT by Thierry Mugler Seductive Delights Set
Presented in a Thierry Mugler Signature Pouch, this tempting duo features a 1.7 oz. Eau de Parfum Spray and 3.3 oz. Delicate Body Milk for the price of $76.00. David Yurman Luxurious Inspirations Collection
Part III (continued from page 37)
This collection features a 1.7 oz. Eau de Parfum, 6.8 oz. Luxurious Body Lotion and .17 oz. Eau de Parfum Deluxe Miniature. Valued at $194.00, the collection retails for $140.00.
10 fragrances are offered in a 5 ml size of the signature superstar flacon.
Amethyst Serenity
KAPLAN MD First Class Traveler Perfect for onthe-go, this case contains 7 travelsized products including a 10 ml Cellular Rejuvenating Concentrate, 10 ml Night Replenishment Concentrate, 10 ml Daily Moisture SPF 30 Concentrate, 3 ml Intensive Eye Concentrate, 40 ml Clarifying Toner, 40 ml Purifying Foam Cleanser and .11 oz. LIP 20 Treatment in Clear. This set, a value of $350.00, is priced at $250.00.
The Scent of Peace The Fantasy-Stone Fountain of Peace For the price of $7500, this 42 oz. spigoted amphora vitrine is filled with The Scent of Peace and has a glistening exterior that is completely encrusted with Swarovski crystals.
Elegant Inspirations Collection
The Scent of Peace is featured in a Swarovski amethyst pavé-covered superstar bottle. The 50 ml Eau de Parfum is priced at $500.00 and 7 ml Pocket Spray, $225.00. Both are refillable. Bond No. 9 Perfume Oudissimo/Oud on the Skin
The Peace Offering
BOND NO. 9 The Swarovski All-Stars Quartet To Go
Receive a 1 oz. Eau de Parfum in a citrine-colored, faceted bottle along with a 6.8 oz. Luxurious Body Lotion and .17 oz. Eau de Parfum Deluxe Miniature. Valued at $144.00, the set retails for $100.00.
presentation box are also studded with stones for the price of $1000.
This trio features The Scent of Peace in three variations for the price of $430.00. Included in the set is a 100 ml Eau de Parfum, 200 ml Body Cream and a candle.
The East-West fragrance, a blend of oriental oud and beautifully balanced rose along with almond and caramel, is available in a candle and 200 ml Body Cream. The set is priced at $170.00. The Coffret Trio
Chinatown, Nuits de Noho, The Scent of Peace and Bond No. 9 Perfume are offered in a set of 7 ml Pocket Sprays studded with Swarovski crystals. The quartet is priced at $700.00. A Perfumista’s Perfect Ten For the price of $240.00, NOVEMBER 2011 /
The Incandescent Shooting Super Star The Swarovski crystalencrusted flacon emphasizes the preciousness of the contents inside— The Scent of Peace Eau de Parfum in a 100 ml size. The oval cap and keepsake
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This set contains three 50 ml top sellers: Astor Place, Nuits de Noho and Bond No. 9 Perfume. It is priced at $550.00. BF
ARTISANAL BEAUTY
THE
IMMUNOCOLOGIE ‘GLOW’
™
(continued from page 35)
(continued from page 32)
make good use of the richness of raw foods and are readily accepted by these cells; so in essence, IMMUNOCOLOGIE™ acts as a bio-catalyst that promotes rapid absorption and effectiveness.” The IMMUNOCOLOGIE™ range is beneficial for every skin type and condition. The bio-energy and purity of each product are preserved with special, violet glass packaging. Key ingredients are VenoMAX™, snow algae, E.A.V. (elk antler velvet), Bioferrin 5000 ® , marine phytoplankton, omega 3 fatty acids, glucosamine, mangosteen, resveratrol, mulberry extract, muru muru butter and mango butter.
British Perfumer and Designer Heeley showcases his unique fragrances that appeal to both men and women.
Mr. Frossard with Antina Ricci and Juliette Has a Gun’s Romano Ricci
The Clive Christian collection of fragrances topped with their iconic crownshaped bottle stopper The IMMUNOCOLOGIE™ collection
VenoMAX ™ is a complex that mimics part of the polypeptide found in the venom of the Temple Viper. It is a proprietary complex of anti-inflammatory ingredients that synergistically inhibits the activation of NF-k8, a key mediator in inflammation and aging. The ingredient immediately relaxes wrinkles while fighting chronic inflammation. Bioferrin 5000 ®—patent-pending for elevating hyaluronic acid levels in human tissue to promote significant skin hydration following a topical application—is a natural, biologically active protein isolated from fresh, sweet whey using advanced fractionation technologies that retain the maximum bioactivity. The IMMUNOCOLOGIE™ line includes Treatment Crème VenoMAX™, Treatment Crème VenoMAX LIGHT™, Eye Treatment Serum VenoMAX ™ , Line Smoothing Treatment Serum, Treatment Crème, Eye Repair Treatment Crème, Treatment Solution, Treatment Masque and Cleansing Treatment. They range in price from $65.00 to $275.00. The sales at the initial distribution in New York pharmacies has been “beyond astronomical,” declared Mr. Jaffery, and the follow-up distribution plan includes select specialty stores, pharmacies, Dermatologists as well as resort and medical spas. “We are also planning to open an innovative destination ‘IMMUNOCOLOGIE™ Spa’ and hope to bring the products to a wider audience through television sales.” BF NOVEMBER 2011 /
The New Yorkcentric Bond No. 9 fragrances created by Laurice Rahme
Ms. Villoresi with Calé’s Silvio Levi
At the Pitti Immagine show, Joseph Garces, President of Robert Piguet Parfums, introduced a limited-edition 1L Fracas Parfum made with Swarovski Elements, which is sold exclusively at Harrods, Perfumery, Ground Floor. Mr. Garces regards the Pitti Immagine Fragranze N.9 as “a very important trade show for luxury, niche fragrances.” BF
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LIFT OFF NEW VENTURE (continued from page 41)
He noted that many consumers are loyal to their older brands, but cannot find them. “At SkyMall, you will be able to find the latest scents and the older classics, because our shelf space is virtual. A passenger with several hours of flight time can browse through fragrance and cosmetic products and decide what is best for themselves as well as select a present for a loved one or friend.” “There will be sampling to over two million c o n s u m e r s a y e a r,” informed Maritza Barnes, Vice President of Fragrance Express’ Travel Retail division. “While w e m ay n o t a l w ay s capture that customer on the flight because they may want to sample a product first, it is a fantastic way for our partners to promote their brands.” Customers order products at a travel retail price. Fragrance Express Fragrance Express’ Robert Bartlett will also offer GWPs for and Maritza Barnes featured items. SkyMall receives the orders by phone or email and then downloads them to Fragrance Express on an hourly basis. They are then drop-shipped to the customer by Fragrance Express. Due to the expansion of Fragrance Express’ business with SkyMall, Mr. Bartlett revealed that the company is looking for alternative space to move in the first quarter of 2012. Ms. Barnes believes that passengers on planes will look forward to seeing the next issue of SkyMall on their flights “to see the latest fragrances and cosmetics. We believe the passengers will share, ‘I bought that over my iPhone on the plane.’” She maintains, “This will be an important channel in the fragrance industry’s future. It offers the manufacturers an unparalleled return on investment, a marketing channel for new product launches or re-launches as well as sales to support their advertising dollars. It is a unique opportunity to showcase brands to a captive US consumer market.” BF
NOVEMBER 2011 /
For those who aspire to play “Spa Owner,” Clarins can make it happen. The brand teamed up with casual games developer, FreshPlanet, to collaborate on a virtual spa management Facebook game, Spa Life. “We knew that more than 70% of gamers on Facebook are women from age 18 to 45,” informed Jonathan Zrihen, President and CEO of Clarins Groupe North America. “These people are our potential customers for products and treatments.”
Spa Life game play shots
Spa Life, which debuted in September, is Clarins’ first foray into the casual games market. “We wanted to create a way for spa enthusiasts and Clarins devotees to interact with the Clarins brand digitally in a fun and engaging way. Spa Life will, in an innovative way, bridge the virtual world with the real world by offering players the ability to discover our real products and services.” Players of Spa Life can build the most luxurious spas and can earn virtual money to customize their spa with treatment stations, decorations and Clarins products. The players can also ‘hire’ their Facebook friends to work at their spa and share in their Spa Life successes. Spa Life virtually represents the Clarins brand by reflecting the Clarins Skin Spas. It incorporates Clarins’ popular treatments, products and the spas’ interior design. Mathieu Nouzareth, Co-Founder and CEO of FreshPlanet affirmed, “Developing Spa Life with Clarins was such a terrific and novel experience. Unlike other advergames, Spa Life was developed in partnership with Clarins from the ground up. The game’s ambition,” he noted, “is to combine a truly deep and ambitious game that millions of players will enjoy while at the same time promoting Clarins’ products and values.” Spa Life can be experienced by visiting facebook.com/ spa-life. The How to Play Video Tutorial is available at youtu.be/ccEgYjxhjOw. BF
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THEBEAUTYBIZ
GAME CHANGER
AND
FOREIGNCORRESPONDENTS
BRAZIL BEAUTY BRIEF (continued from page 44) by Andrea Ferrari
BEAUTY AUSTRALIA Priceline, Australia’s biggest health and beauty retailer of cosmetics, skincare, hair care and health care products, with over 330 stores covering every state in Australia, has developed its own cosmetics line and dedicated merchandising unit. Named Models Prefer, the line consists of 115 items, including 80 makeup SKUs and 35 ancillaries. The result of two years’ R&D, the ‘luxe for less’ Models Prefer makeup range is the brainchild of Priceline’s Susie Bearzi, Cosmetic Buyer, and Ann Riad, Cosmetic Accessory Buyer. Key to their brief was to create a value-for-money collection with quality packaging and fashion colors for a fracPriceline’s tion of the price Models Prefer cosmetics range of designer makeup brands. Their experienced view was that there are plenty of inexpensive makeup ranges around, but there was a real gap in the market when it came to products offering runway trends and the latest looks. The Quad Eyeshadows, Ultra Lipgloss Pencil, Mineral Duo Eye Shadows and Mineral Powder Foundation are expected to be the line’s top sellers. These products range in price from AUS$9.99 to $16.99. The sleek black packaging of the collection looks similar to international Makeup Artist brands, but the color palettes, eye makeup and foundations are all Australian designed. The accessory range includes natural and synthetic brushes for individual jobs such as applying foundation and blushes, as well as specialist items including eye crease brushes and stippling brushes. The price range for the collection is AUS$9.99 to $24.99. Priceline has designed a customized Models Prefer display unit with Hollywood lighting and glamorous Model images to set the scene in-store. BF
income individuals, particularly from the southeast region. In 2010, sales of premium beauty and personal care products grew by 9% at constant US dollar prices, one of the highest growth rates in the world according to Euromonitor International. Brazil’s appetite for high-end goods reflects the rise of an aspirational middle-class as well as an entrenched predisposition toward spending rather than saving. For instance, luxury jeweler Tiffany & Co. has more stores in São Paulo than in any other city in the world. São Paulo is also where the LVMH group generates some of its most attractive profits. In a bid to expand its Brazilian presence, LVMH’s Sephora acquired 70% of online beauty retailer Sack’s in 2010 and marked Sephora’s entry into the Brazilian market. According to Carlos André Montenegro, Founder and CEO of Sack’s, Sephora had been probing the Brazilian market for 10 years before the acquisition. “Sack’s carries more than 270 brands and our portfolio comprises more than 830,000 customers. LVMH brand Dior has always been Sack’s champion in sales,” said Mr. Montenegro.
Carlos André Montenegro of Sack’s
The Brazilian CT&F market is expected to keep growing during the 2010-2015 period. Euromonitor International Analyst Rob Walker believes Brazil is on the course to dethrone the US as the world’s biggest bath and body care market by 2013. “With Brazil hosting the World Cup and the Olympic Games, there will be plenty of opportunity for high-profile marketing and advertising activity,” he said. “Brazil is already the world’s largest market of deodorants and perfumes and the second largest in oral care, hair care and bath products,” said Mr. Basilio. Despite high penetration of some products, there is still substantial potential for growth in the coming years in which makeup, depilatories and fragrances are expected to register the most dynamic performance. BF
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