Day in the Life - Piscataquis

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Piscataquis to do list : TAKE A STEAMBOAT RIDE • GREAT PLACES TO EAT • AMAZING RELICS TO EXPLORE

a day in the life

PISCATAQUIS

Saturday, June 1, 2019 • Bangor Daily News • Special Advertising Section

DESTINATION:

ADVENTURE COUNTY, MAINE LOOKING FOR EXCITEMENT IN PISCATAQUIS? YOU’VE COME TO THE RIGHT PLACE. BY ALAN CROWELL

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dventure seekers, rejoice: while there are many places in Piscataquis County to lay back and relax, there are just as many to test your mettle and get dirty for a day or three. Check out our top picks for adventure in Piscataquis County, and start packin’: after all, winter’s just a few months away.

Two hikers emerge from the clouds as they hike across Knife Edge of Katahdin to Baxter Peak. AISLINN SARNACKI | BDN

The Katahdin cruises on Moosehead Lake with Mount Kineo in the background. LINDA COAN O'KRESIK | BDN

 KATAHDIN

A spine of weathered granite rising 5,267 feet over Baxter State Park, Katahdin is Maine’s tallest mountain and probably on more bucket lists than any other in-state adventure. Native American tribes believed Katahdin was the home of Pamola, the storm god. When Henry David Thoreau climbed the mountain in the 1840s, an adventure he chronicled in “The Maine Woods,” he found a place wild almost beyond imagining: “Nature was here something savage and awful, though beautiful. I looked with awe at the ground I trod on, to see what the Powers had made there….This was that Earth of which we have heard, made out of Chaos and Old Night.” Today, hikers will find a much more congenial adventure, but one still quite strenuous and potentially dangerous. There are several trails of varying levels of difficulty up the mountain. All are well marked but will require hikers to scramble over boulders for lengthy stretches before rewarding them with one of the most exhilarating views in the state. Even the most direct route will take at least eight hours, so an early start and good weather are prerequisites. The most dangerous section is the Knife Edge, a narrow trail only a few feet wide in spots, that connects Pamola Peak and Baxter Peak. In the past 70 or so years, more than 20 people have died traversing the Knife Edge, most often in adverse weather conditions. In places, the drop is hundreds of feet almost straight down. Planning and research are a must before any attempt. Make sure you leave time to get up and down in daylight hours and know your route. Bring plenty of food and water, flashlights, and a means to communicate in case of emergency, although the use of cell phones on the mountain is discouraged (and unreliable). A reservation is required, and since local knowledge about the state of trails can make or break any trip, it is never a bad idea to call ahead a few days before your trip to check on conditions. The Baxter State Park website is a wealth of information: baxterstatepark.org/general-info.

THE 100-MILE WILDERNESS

Arguably more arduous than climbing Katahdin is Maine’s 100-Mile Wilderness, which runs from Monson, at its southern end, to Abol Bridge, just south of Baxter State Park. By far the most isolated section of the Appalachian Trail (AT), the 100-Mile Wilderness includes some of the most beautiful stretches of the entire trail, crossing over mountains, passing by peaceful ponds and lakes and over streams, rivers, and gorges. Because it is so isolated, there are few opportunities to resupply and hikers should make sure they are carrying enough food to get through the entire hike. Also, a GPS tracker and cell phone are advised because many people do bail out. Although the trail is maintained by the Appalachian Trail Conservancy, it more than possible to get lost and people have died while hiking the trail, either after getting lost or from medical emergencies. If you are considering hiking this section of trail, make sure you are in good hiking shape first and do your research. A good place to start is on the official website of the Appalachian Trail Conservancy: appalachiantrail.org/home/explore-the-trail/explore-by-state/maine. But while the AT website is a good place to start, you really can’t do too much research on this one, so don’t stop there. Read plenty of first-person accounts from hikers who ran into trouble—not to scare yourself, but to better understand the trail’s many challenges.

Canoeists work their way around Chase Rapids on the Allagash Wilderness Waterway. PHOTO COURTESY OF STEVE DAY | SJVT/FHF

 MOOSEHEAD LAKE

Moosehead lake is Maine’s biggest lake and its most storied as well. Evidence of human habitation in the area goes back thousands of years years to the Red Paint people, known for their characteristic gravesites (they buried their dead with lots of red ocher). In the 19th century, trains, which then stretched all the way from Boston to Bangor, took thousands of “Rusticators” from Boston to Greenville, on the southern tip of Moosehead, to spend the summer hunting and fishing in and around the lake. Approximately 40 miles long and 10 miles wide at its widest point, Moosehead has an area of about 118 square miles and over 400 miles of shoreline, much of it undeveloped. With so much to explore, this is very much a choose-your-adventure destination. Moose outnumber people by roughly three-to-one here, so rent a canoe or an outboard boat and cruise along the shoreline to spot the huge animals feeding at the water’s edge in the early morning. Moosehead has also been a fishing destination for 150 years, featuring landlocked salmon and trout of several varieties, so bring your rod and reel while exploring. There are also plenty of hiking trails in the area. Mount Kineo State Park offers miles of trails around a massive outcrop of rock that rises about 750 feet above the lake. Kineo is located on a 1,150-acre peninsula connected to the eastern shore of the lake by a thin causeway. Native American tribes came here from hundreds of miles away to mine Kineo’s rhyolite, a volcanic rock that has many of the same properties as flint and was used to make arrowheads and other tools.

GULF HAGAS

Within a reasonable drive from Greenville is one of the natural wonders of Maine, Gulf Hagas. Sometimes called the “Grand Canyon of Maine,” Gulf Hagas is a gorge that is much smaller than its western counterpart but infinitely easier to explore. A bit less than four miles long, Gulf Hagas is the result of the west branch of the Pleasant River wearing its way through a slate rock formation for thousands of years. At points the vertical slate walls drop over 100 feet down to the river. The river loses about 370 feet in elevation here, causing dramatic waterfalls, swimming holes, and several sections of rapids along the length of the gorge. Because parts of the trail can be treacherous and the falls steep, the Maine Warden Service has had to mount many rescues in this area so caution is advised. All those waterfalls and rapids make for excellent Class 5 whitewater for expert kayakers, but because of the wide range in conditions, this gorge is best suited to experienced kayakers. Flows are heaviest in the spring, but the fall foliage adds to the scenic beauty. The Gulf Hagas Rim Trail is about eight miles long and converges with the Appalachian Trail. Hikers should be prepared for an early start and should plan for eight hours for the entire hike, although it can certainly be done in less time. There is a fee for accessing the trail. Leave time to enjoy a section of old growth White Pines known as the Hermitage, which is on a section of trail leading to the gorge.

 THE ALLAGASH RIVER WATERWAY

The Allagash River Waterway is one of the preeminent canoe trips in the United States. Flowing north from Telos Lake 98 miles to the Town of Allagash in Aroostook County, the waterway has been endorsed by everyone from Henry David Thoreau to the National Geographic Society, which named it one of America’s best adventures in a 2010 article. Considered one of the last wilderness—or at least, near-wilderness—canoe trips east of the Mississippi, the Allagash Wilderness Waterway has been described as a trip back in time, an opportunity to enjoy the natural world in the way our ancestors did, bar the occasional railroad bridge or rumble of a distant logging truck. Paddlers will drift past woods filled with wildlife and over fish-filled rivers. There are miles and miles of serene beauty and the daily promise of eagles and moose sightings. The entire trip includes paddles across a series of placid lakes, several sections of challenging white water, and more than a few portages, but it is not necessary to do the entire waterway at one go. If you are seriously considering a trip down the waterway, keep in mind that as in any wilderness expedition, preparation is vital, and for all but the most proficient paddlers, hiring an experienced guide is an excellent idea. Waterflows, either too high or too low can be an issue and should be monitored before going, and there are also many rules on camping and the use of boats designed to maintain the wilderness character of the waterway. A good place to start your research if you are considering a trip to the Allagash is the Maine Bureau of Parks and lands which offers an excellent brochure on the waterway, available in pdf format at maine.gov/dacf/parksearch/PropertyGuides/PDF_GUIDE/aww-guide.pdf.


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