STUDENT MANUAL
PHILOSOPHY
THE ART OF BARBERING IS A COMPLETE PACKAGE THAT INVOLVES TECHNICAL CUTTING SKILLS, CUSTOMER SERVICE AND A UNIQUE MINDSET. IT IS OFTEN THE CASE THAT ONE OF THESE FUNDAMENTALS IS LOST DURING THE PROCESS OF BECOMING A BARBER. AT BSW, WE COMBINE ALL OF THESE ASPECTS TOGETHER TO TEACH, DEVELOP AND CREATE INDIVIDUALS WHO DELIVER A TRUE BARBERING EXPERIENCE TO THEIR CUSTOMERS.
WE OFFER ASPIRING BARBERS AN INSIGHTFUL LEARNING ENVIRONMENT TO REFINE THEIR SKILLS AND MASTER THE ART OF BARBERING. OUR MISSION IS TO BRING TRUE MASTERY, EXCELLENCE AND PROFESSIONALISM BACK TO THE BARBERING INDUSTRY. THIS BOOKLET WILL PROVIDE YOU WITH THE KNOWLEDGE NEEDED TO UNDERSTAND THE BSW METHODS USED WHEN CREATING A RANGE OF HAIRCUTS. THE STEP-BY-STEP GUIDES ARE LAID OUT IN A SIMPLE AND EASY TO FOLLOW FORMAT TO ELEVATE YOUR LEARNING PROCESS.
FUNDAMENTALS
FUNDAMENTALS
THE HEAD 1.
THERE ARE 9 KEY POINTS ON THE HUMAN HEAD TO USE AS REFERENCE POINTS WHEN CUTTING HAIR. IT IS IMPORTANT TO LEARN THESE REFERENCE POINTS AS THEY IMPACT THE WAY THE HAIR LAYS ON THE HEAD. IT WILL HELP YOU CREATE THE CORRECT SHAPE FOR THE DESIRED AND BEST-SUITED HAIRCUT.
APEX: THE HIGHEST POINT OF THE HEAD.
PARIETAL: THE BONE THAT CURVES FROM THE SIDES TO THE TOP OF THE SKULL.
FRONTAL: THE BONE THAT CURVES FROM THE TOP OF THE HEAD INTO THE FOREHEAD.
LAMBDOID: A CURVATURE THAT LIES FROM THE BACK OF THE HEAD TO THE TOP OF THE SKULL.
TEMPORAL: THE BONE THAT PROTRUDES FROM THE SIDE OF THE HEAD.
OCCIPITAL: THE BONE FOUND IN THE CENTRE OF THE BACK OF THE SKULL.
MASTOID: A BONE LOCATED BEHIND THE EAR ON BOTH SIDES OF THE SKULL.
NAPE: LOCATED AT TE BOTTOM OF THE HAIRLINE ON THE NECK.
RECESSION POINT: THE MEETING POINT BETWEEN THE SIDES AND TOP OF THE HEAD.
CLIPPER CUTTING
CLIPPER & SCISSOR CUTTING
2. ELEVATION
WHAT IS A ELEVATION?
ELEVATION IS AT WHICH ANGLE YOU ELEVATE OR LIFT YOUR CLIPPERS, HANDS, SCISSORS ETC TO CREATE A DESIRED SHAPE.
THE ANGLE WHICH YOU ELEVATE WILL DETERMINE THE SHAPE OF YOUR GRADUATION IN A HAIRCUT.
2. SHAPE
‘SHAPE’ OF A HAIRCUT, REFERS TO THE INTERNAL SHAPE WE CUT WHICH GIVES AN EXTERNAL FINISHED LOOK.
DIFFERENT HAIRCUTS REQUIRE DIFFERENT SHAPES TO FUNCTION CORRECTLY.
THE PRIMARY SHAPES WE WILL BE FOCUSING ON DURING YOUR COURSE ARE ROUND, SQUARE AND TRIANGULAR.
THE FOLLOWING IMAGES ARE EXAMPLES OF EXTREMES OF THE THREE DIFFERENT SHAPES.
YOUR DEGREE OF ELEVATION OR SHAPE DOESN’T NEED TO MATCH THE EXACT POINTS IN THESE REFERENCES. OUR EXAMPLES ARE JUST TO SHOW YOU THE DIFFERENT CHARACTERISTICS OF EACH SHAPE.
3. SHAPE
ROUND
CHARACTERISTICS OF A ROUND SHAPE:
I AM ROUND. I HAVE NO CORNERS
BECAUSE I HAVE NO CORNERS, I LAY TIGHTER TO THE HEAD
I SUIT SHORTER HAIRCUTS
DON’T USE ME ON HAIRCUTS THAT SWEEP BACKWARDS
DON’T USE ME WHERE YOU NEED WEIGHT OR VOLUME
3. SHAPE
SQUARE
90
CHARACTERISTICS OF A SQUARE SHAPE:
I AM SQUARE. I HAVE CORNERS
BECAUSE I HAVE CORNERS, I LAY LOOSER TO THE HEAD
I SUIT LONGER HAIRCUTS
USE ME ON HAIRCUTS THAT SWEEP BACKWARDS
USE ME WHERE YOU NEED WEIGHT OR VOLUME
USE ME WHERE HAIR IS DISCONNECTED FROM THE TOP TO THE SIDES
3. SHAPE
TRIANGULAR
CHARACTERISTICS OF A
TRIANGULAR SHAPE:
35DEGREES
I AM TRIANGULAR. I HAVE VERY LARGE CORNERS YOU WON’T USE ME VERY OFTEN
USE ME WHERE YOU NEED EXTREME AMOUNTS OF WEIGHT OR VOLUME
DON’T THINK ABOUT ME TOO MUCH
2. ONE LENGTH
A ONE LENGTH HAIRCUT IS A HAIRSTYLE WITH THE SAME LENGTH OF HAIR THROUGHOUT CERTAIN AREAS.
TO CREATE A ONE LENGTH HAIRCUT, WE REMOVE THE LENGTH WITH SCISSORS AND CREATE A SHAPE AROUND THE PERIMETER OF THE HAIR.
A ONE-LENGTH SQUARE HAIRCUT BUILDS CORNERS AROUND THE PERIMETER TO PROVIDE EXTRA LENGTH OVER THE SHOULDERS.
DIAGRAM (1) ILLUSTRATES THE DIRECTION IN WHICH THE HAIR SHOULD BE PULLED. THIS DIAGRAM ALSO ILLUSTRATES WHERE THE CORNERS ARE CREATED TO BUILD UP SHAPE.
A ONE LENGTH ROUND HAIRCUT IS THE SAME LENGTH THROUGHOUT WITH NO BUILD UP OF WEIGHT.
DIAGRAM (2) ILLUSTRATES THE DIRECTION IN WHICH THE HAIR SHOULD BE PULLED. THIS DIAGRAM ALSO ILLUSTRATES WHERE THE LENGTH IS THE SAME THROUGHOUT.
1) ONE LENGTH SQUARE
2) ONE LENGTH ROUND
SECTIONS
DIRECTION OF PULL CUTTING LINE MOVEMENT AROUND THE HEAD
TOOLS:
3. ROUND LAYER
A ROUND LAYER IS A LAYERING TECHNIQUE USED TO CUT THE HAIR INTO A SHAPE THAT FOLLOWS THE CURVATURE OF THE HEAD WITHOUT CREATING ANY WEIGHT OR CORNERS IN THE HAIR. THIS TECHNIQUE IS COMMONLY USED FOR LOW MAINTENANCE HAIRCUTS.
THE DIAGRAMS ILLUSTRATE THE DIRECTION IN WHICH THE HAIR SHOULD BE PULLED AWAY FROM THE HEAD AND THEN CUT.
SECTIONS
DIRECTION OF PULL
PROFILE LINE
CUTTING LINE
DIRECTION OF SECTIONS TO TAKE
TOOLS:
SCISSORS FINECOMB
4. SQUARE LAYER
A SQUARE LAYER IS A LAYERING TECHNIQUE USED TO CUT HAIR INTO A SQUARE SHAPE. THE RESULTING EFFECT COMPENSATES FOR THE NATURAL ROUNDNESS OF THE HEAD BY CREATING CORNERS.
THE DIAGRAM ILLUSTRATES THE DIRECTION IN WHICH THE HAIR SHOULD BE PULLED AWAY FROM THE HEAD AND THEN CUT. THEY ALSO ILLUSTRATE WHERE CORNERS ARE BUILT AROUND THE HEAD SHAPE.
SECTIONS
DIRECTION OF PULL
PROFILE LINE
CUTTING LINE
DIRECTION OF SECTIONS TO TAKE
TOOLS:
SCISSORS FINECOMB
5. GUARD CUTTING
CLIPPERING GUARDS ARE USED TO SELECT THE LENGTH THROUGHOUT THE BACK AND SIDES OF A HAIRCUT.
THE DIAGRAM ILLUSTRATES THE DIRECTION AND MOVEMENT AROUND THE HEAD WHEN CLIPPERING. THIS CREATES A SMOOTH CANVAS.
NOTICE ON THE DIAGRAM THAT THE CLIPPER GLIDES OFF THE LAMBDOID AND OCCIPITAL BONES.
MOVEMENT AROUND THE HEAD
CLIPPER MOVEMENT
TOOLS: CLIPPER COLUMN
6. FADING
FADING IS A BLENDING TECHNIQUE USED TO CREATE A SMOOTH GRADIENT FROM LIGHT TO DARK. THE FADE IS LIGHTER (SHORTER) AROUND THE HAIRLINE AND THEN GRADUATES INTO A DARKER FINISH AS YOU MOVE UP THE HEAD.
ONCE THE HEIGHT OF THE FADE HAS BEEN SELECTED, THE 'LINE' IS CREATED. AFTER THE 'LINE', CLIPPER GUARDS ARE USED TO 'FADE' THE HAIR FROM SHORT TO LONG MOVING UP THE HEAD.
THE DIAGRAMS ILLUSTRATE WHERE THE INITIAL PLACEMENT 'LINE' SHOULD BE PLACED. LOW/MEDIUM/HIGH
CLIPPER GUARD 3 HIGH FADE LINE TOOLS:
CLIPPERS FADEBRUSH GUARDS
7. TAPERING
TAPERING IS A TECHNIQUE USED TO TRIM DOWN THE HAIRS AROUND THE HAIRLINE IN ORDER TO ACHIEVE A CLEANER AND TIGHTER LOOK. TAPERING IS DONE USING CLIPPERS OR TRIMMERS.
DIAGRAM (1) ILLUSTRATES THE TAPERING AREA AROUND THE HAIRLINE.
DIAGRAMS (2) & (3) ILLUSTRATE HOW A TAPER SHOULD BE COMPLETED AROUND THE HAIRLINE ANGLING OUT AT 35-45 DEGREES.
DIAGRAM (3) INCORPORATES A COMB WITH THE CLIPPERS WHEN THE HAIR IS KEPT LONGER AORUND THE HAIRLINE.
DIAGRAM (4) IS AN EXAMPLE OF HOW TO TAPER THE NAPE.
DIAGRAM (6) & (7) SHOWS THE DIRECTION TO TAPER AROUND THE EAR.
DIRECTION OF MOVEMENT 1) 2) 3) 4) 5) 6)
TAPERING AREA
CLIPPER GUARD LINE
TOOLS:
CLIPPERS TRIMMERS GUARDS
CLIPPERCOMB
8. OUTLINING
OUTLINES ARE USED TO 'FRAME' A HAIRCUT.
THE HEIGHT OF THE OUTLINE IS GENERALLY DETERMINED BY WHERE THE HAIRLINE STARTS TO GROW. ON THE BACK OF THE NECK, YOU CAN CHOOSE TO SQUARE OFF OR TAPER THE NAPE. IT IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED TO TAPER WHERE POSSIBLE.
DIAGRAM (1) SHOWS THE DIRECTION OF MOVEMENT WHEN INPUTTING THE OUTLINES WITH THE TRIMMERS.
DIAGRAMS (2) & (3) SHOW DIFFERENT NAPE FINISHES.
TOOLS: DIRECTION OF MOVEMENT 1) 2) 3) SQUARE TAPERED
CLIPPERS TRIMMERS GUARDS
CLIPPERCOMB
9. PROFILE LINE
THE PROFILE LINE IS A GUIDE THAT IS CUT ALONG THE CENTRE OF THE HEAD FROM THE APEX TO THE FRONT HAIRLINE. THIS GUIDE IS THEN FOLLOWED TO CUT THE INTERNAL ROUND OR SQUARE LAYERING SYSTEM.
DIAGRAMS (1), (2) & (3) ILLUSTRATE THE PLACEMENT OF THE PROFILE LINE.
DIAGRAM (4) ILLUSTRATES THE DIRECTION IN WHICH TO CUT THE PROFILE LINE.
PROFILE LINE
CUTTING LINE
DIRECTION OF PULL 1) 2) 3) 4)
HAIR TO BE CUT SECTIONS
TOOLS:
SCISSORS FINECOMB
10. STATIC BLADE
STATIC BLADE IS THE WAY WE OPEN AND CLOSE OUR SCISSORS. 'STATIC' REFERS TO OUR TOP FINGER WHICH REMAINS STILL AND WE ONLY MOVE THE SCISSORS WITH OUR THUMB. THIS CREATES THE CLEANEST CUT.
1) PLACE YOUR 4TH FIGNER FROM YOUR THUMB IN THE TOP SCISSOR HOLE & YOUR THUMB IN THE BOTTOM SCISSOR HOLE
2) ARCH YOUR WRIST AND WHILST KEEPING YOUR TOP FINGER COMPLETELY STILL OPEN YOUR BLADE WITH JUST YOUR THUMB
3) OPEN YOUR BLADE FULLY 90 DEGREES AND CLOSE YOUR BLADE. DO NOT MOVE YOUR TOP FINGER! ONLY MOVE YOUR THUMB. THIS IS STATIC BLADE.
11. CONNECTING THE SIDES TO THE TOP
CONNECTING THE SIDES TO THE TOP REFERS TO MERGING THE BACK AND SIDES WITH THE TOP TO FORM THE COMPLETE SHAPE OF THE HAIRCUT. THE HAIR IS PULLED 90 DEGREES FROM THE THE HAIR AND CUT SQUARE.
THE DIAGRAMS ILLUSTRATE THE DIRECTION TO PULL THE HAIR WHEN CONNECTING.
1)
DIRECTION OF PULL
DIRECTION OF SECTIONS TO TAKE
CUTTING LINE
HAIR TO BE CUT SECTIONS
CLIPPER/SCISSOR WORK
TOOLS:
2)
3) 4)
SCISSORS FINECOMB
ADISCONNECTIONISWHERETHETOPOFTHEHAIRIS COMPLETEDSEPARATEFROMTHEBACKANDSIDES. THEREISNOBLENDBETWEENTHETOPANDTHE SIDES.
13. CLIPPER OVER COMB
CLIPPER OVER COMB IS A TECHNIQUE USED TO REMOVE WEIGHT AND REFINE THE SHAPE OF THE HAIRCUT.
THE DIAGRAM ILLUSTRATES WHERE THE COMB HOLDS THE HAIR IN PLACE BEFORE REMOVING THE WEIGHT WITH CLIPPERS EITHER VERTICALLY OR HORIZONTALLY.
CLIPPER/SCISSOR WORK COMB
HAIR TO BE CUT
TOOLS:
SCISSORS CLIPPERCOMB FLATCOMB
CUTTING LINE HORIZONTAL
14. SCISSOR OVER COMB
SCISSOR OVER COMB IS A TECHNIQUE USED TO REMOVE WEIGHT AND BULK ON BOTH SCISSOR AND CLIPPER CUTS.
THE DIAGRAMS ILLUSTRATE THE DIRECTION IN WHICH TO MOVE THE SCISSORS AND COMB, STARTING FROM THE HAIRLINE AND MOVING UP THROUGH THE SIDES TOWARDS THE TOP OF THE HEAD.
DIAGRAMS (1) & (2) ILLUSTRATE THE DIRECTION TO SCISSOR OVER COMB SQUARE, OFF THE CURVATURE OF THE HEAD TO MAINTAIN WEIGHT. TOOLS:
SCSISSOR MOVEMENT
SCISSOR COLUMN
1) 2)
15. POINT CUTTING
POINT CUTTING THE FRINGE AND OUTLINES IS A REFINING AND FINISHING TECHNIQUE USED TOWARDS THE END OF A HAIRCUT.
THE DIAGRAMS ILLUSTRATE IN WHICH DIRECTION TO COMB THE HAIR AND HOW TO SHAPE USING THE TIP OF THE SCISSORS TO ACHIEVE A SOFTER FINISH.
TOOLS:
HAIR TO BE CUT CUTTING LINE DIRECTION OF PULL
SCISSORS FINECOMB
16. TEXTURISING
TEXTURISING IS A FINISHING TECHNIQUE USED AT THE FINAL STAGES OF A HAIRCUT. THIS TECHNIQUE IS USED TO BREAK UP THE HAIR AND REDUCE WEIGHT. TEXTURISING ALSO GIVES A CHOPPIER LOOK TO THE LAYERS, ALLOWING THE HAIRCUT TO BE EASIER TO STYLE.
DIAGRAM (1) ILLUSTRATES HOW TO TEXTURISE THROUGH THE FINGERS.
DIAGRAM (2) ILLUSTRATES HIW TO TEXTURISE THROUGH THE COMB.
DIAGRAM (3) ILLUSTRATES WHERE TO START AND THE DIRECTION IN WHICH TO TEXTURISE AROUND THE HEAD WHEN ELEVATING THE HAIR WITH THE FINGERS AND COMB.
DIAGRAM (4) ILLUSTRATES WHERE TO START AND THE DIRECTION IN WHICH TO TEXTURISE AROUND THE HEAD WHEN ELEVATING THE HAIR WITH ONLY THE COMB.
SECTIONS TO WORK IN 1) 2) 3) 4)
PANELS TO WORK IN HAIR
TOOLS:
17. RAZORING EDGES
A RAZOR FINISH IS GENERALLY USED TOWARDS THE FINAL STAGES O A HAIRCUT. THIS WILL GIVE A CLEAN, SHARP AND FRAMED FINISH TO THE HAIRCUT.
THE DIAGRAMS ILLUSTRATE WHERE TO STRETCH THE SKIN WITH YOUR THUMB AND THE DIRECTION IN WHICH TO SHAVE.
IT IS KEY TO ALWAYS STRETCH AWAY FROM THE DIRECTION THAT THE BLADE IS MOVING TO GET A SAFE AND CLEAN RESULT.
TOOLS:
RAZOR
SHAVING DIRECTION
DIRECTION OF PULL
FINISHING LINE
