UHB44 - STUDY PACK 1

Your barbershop’s requirements for client preparation

It is important to ensure that the client and his clothing are well protected before the shaving service takes place. Barbershops may vary in relation to the actual client preparation requirements but, as a minimum, it is recommended that the routine below is followed.

Workstation

• ensure an appropriate clean and dry adjustable barbering chair is prepared and locked in position

• secure headrest and reclining backrest

• work surface to be clean and tidy and free from hairs

• equipment and products on display to be clean and free from dust and debris

• tools to be cleaned disinfected and/or sterilised before and during use

• all electrical tools to be visually checked for safety

• all tools and equipment needed to carry out the service to be positioned for ease of use

• clean towel or paper napkin to be placed ready on headrest

• a first aid kit should be available, or you should have knowledge of its whereabouts

• ensure you use disposable nitrile or vinyl gloves

Client

• disposable neck strip to be placed around client’s neck

• clean, suitable for purpose gown to be placed around client and secured

• client to be gently and safely reclined, adjusting the headrest and reclining backrest at same time

Remember to place hand behind backrest to avoid action of client suddenly reclining!

• clean towel to be placed at an angle around front of client

• a paper towel strip tucked into the fold of the towel

State the requirements for client preparation in your barbershop.

Notes.

Expected service times for shaving facial hair

Service times are very important.

• commercial barbershops must remain profitable by working to scheduled time allocations for different services, while providing an environment that is professional and welcoming and that makes the client feel relaxed and unhurried, even if the barber is under pressure

• the operation of an efficient appointments system ensures that clients are not kept waiting and that the best use is made of barbershop time and that successful planning of barbershop resources can take place

• many barbershops will have a waiting area for clients to queue for an appointment

• by allocating specific times for a service, an efficient appointment or queuing system can be maintained

Your barbershop’s and legal requirements for disposal of sharps, hazardous and waste materials

Your barbershop may have their own particular requirements for the disposal of sharps, hazardous and waste materials, but you must ensure that the disposal of sharps and waste meet legal and local bye-law requirements.

The sharps and types of waste materials you will be required to dispose of during and after the shaving service are:

Sharps

• used replaceable razor blades

• fixed bladed razors/scissors of no further use

• disposable razors

Hazardous and waste materials

• tissues

• blood soiled tissues

• protective gloves

• blood soiled protective gloves

• alum sticks (ensure these are only used on one client)

• first aid plasters

• facial hair clippings

• blood soiled facial hair clippings

Sharps

Sharps must be disposed of by placing them in a sharps box. The boxes are usually collected by the local council for special disposal under controlled conditions. This is the only way sharps may be disposed of.

They must not be put into:

• soft drink cans

• empty plastic containers or:

• wrapped in tissue

• taped up then put in the bin.

It is illegal to dispose of sharps in such ways.

There may be additional local by-laws relating to the disposal of sharps.

Waste materials

Barbershops can produce two types of waste:

• waste that must be disposed of

• waste that can be reused

There may be additional local by-laws that are related to the disposal of general and soiled waste material.

• blood soiled waste products will need to be sealed in an appropriate and warning labelled plastic bag

• certain waste materials such as soiled towels are reusable after they have been laundered correctly

You will need to be made aware of the high risk factor of ‘nicking’ or cutting the skin of either client or yourself. You must also be able to give safe first aid when dealing with cuts.

First aid for nicks

Apply styptic liquids or powders with sterile cotton buds or similar – dispose of in appropriate sealed waste bag. Alum sticks must only be used on one person and then disposed of in the appropriate sealed waste bag.

First aid for cuts

Follow your barbershop’s first aid and accident procedures, but remember you must not come into contact with the client’s blood. The blood flow must be stopped. This can be done by wearing protective gloves and holding damp, sterile cotton wool over the cut until the bleeding ceases. Alternatively, give the cotton wool to the client and ask them to hold it over the cut themselves.

Any accidents must be written into the barbershop accident book.

Notes.

Responsibilities under the current Electricity at Work Regulations

The purpose of these Regulations is to ensure that electrical equipment is adequately maintained and checked by a qualified person. A written record of the equipment tests should be kept and should be made available for inspection.

In addition, the Regulations state that:

• it is important to always visually check if the equipment is safe for use by checking the flex and the plug. The equipment should only be used for its intended purpose and you should make sure that you know how to use it

• when you have finished with the equipment, switch off, remove from the power source and store the equipment safely away

• it is your responsibility to ensure that any faulty equipment that you find in your workplace is isolated, removed from use, labelled as faulty and reported to a relevant person*

• you should be aware of the person in your barbershop to whom you would report faulty electrical equipment

• a written record of the equipment tests that have been carried out by a qualified person should be kept and should be made available for inspection

*You may be the responsible person in your barbershop to whom other people will report faulty electrical equipment.

If you are the responsible person in your barbershop, you must ensure:

• the labelled faulty electrical equipment is kept in a safe place to await repair or disposal

• if it can be repaired, arrange for a qualified person to repair it

• if it cannot be repaired, carefully and safely dispose of the equipment

The Waste Electronic and Electrical Equipment Regulations (W.E.E.E.) Directive aims to reduce the amount of electrical and electronic equipment being disposed of and promote the safe diposal of it.

Electrical equipment used when carrying out the shaving service is:

• clippers/outliners

• sterilising cabinets

• autoclaves

• dry heat ovens

Your responsibilities under the current Electricity at Work Regulations

What should be done to resolve the following situations:

1. The new junior finds the clippers with a loose plug

2. The electrical socket sparked when an appliance was plugged into it

3. You find some outliners with a frayed lead

4 An appliance does not work – you suspect there is a fault with the fuse

Name the person in your barbershop to whom you would report the above problems.

The limitations placed on the use of fixed blade razors by local

by-laws and legislation

You will need to be aware of:

• whether you are legally permitted to use fixed blade razors (cut throat type) within the workplace

• the limitations of using a fixed blade razor within the area of your workplace in relation to the local by-laws

• the legislation in relation to their safe and hygienic disposal

Notes.

The range of protective clothing that should be available for clients and yourself

You must make sure that the shaving service is carried out in a safe, hygienic and effective manner.

You must be aware of the range of protective equipment that your barbershop has made available for the client during the shaving service.

Protective clothing and materials used when cutting hair are:

• disposable neck strips

• gowns, suitable for purpose and to fit adult males

• tissues

• towels

• pads to protect eyes, if removing facial hair with clippers prior to shave

• goggles – eye protection for your use

• nitrile or vinyl gloves

Ensure that all protective clothing and materials are securely placed and that the client is comfortable before proceeding with the shave.

If you are removing facial hair with clippers prior to the shave, do so whilst the client is still sat upright. Ensure all clippings are continually removed from his face, neck and gown by using a clean sterilised neck brush.

You must do your utmost to prevent clippings or lather getting on your client’s clothing or down the collar area.

This is particularly important if the client has visited the barbershop during a lunch break, and he may not be able to shower or change his clothes for hours.

The procedure for client preparation and protection for facial hair shaving:

1. Place the neck strip around the client

2. Place gown around client

3. Place protective tissue on headrest

4. Recline the backrest and adjust the headrest

Remember to place hand behind backrest to avoid action of client suddenly reclining!

5. Place the towels at an angle on the client’s chest

6. Adjust the chair to the correct shaving height

7. Ensure the client is comfortable

Notes.

Why it is important to wear gloves when shaving

Continually wearing protective gloves when carrying out shaving services will ensure the protection of the client and yourself from blood borne diseases such as HIV or Hepatitis B virus.

Blood borne diseases

AIDS and HIV

Acquired immune deficiency syndrome (AIDS) is a disease that can weaken the immune system to the point that the system has difficulty fighting off certain infections. It is caused by the human immunodeficiency virus (HIV). Many people can carry the virus without developing AIDS, however, a person who carries the HIV virus can pass the virus from one person to another through body fluids such as blood.

Hepatitis B

This viral disease affects the liver and can be transmitted through infected body fluids and infected water. Unlike HIV, this disease can survive outside the body for some considerable time, therefore high standards of hygiene are maintained.

The transmission of infected blood could, in theory, happen during the shaving process. The likelihood of creating small nicks or cuts during the shaving service to either the client or yourself is quite high.

It is possible to protect yourself from the risk of Hepatitis B by having a vaccination.

Protective gloves (nitrile or vinyl)

Protective gloves help avoid the risk of cross-infection and should be worn continually through the shaving service.

• your hands should be thoroughly washed, dried and powdered prior to putting on gloves

• the gloves should be close fitting to enable you to use the razor and to tension the skin effectively during the shaving service

You should be aware of potential allergic conditions of client, or yourselves, if using latex gloveswear nitrile or vinyl.

Great care should be taken to avoid cutting the client’s skin.

The clients will expect a high standard of cross-infection procedures to be in place in addition to the barber’s capability to attend to any nicks and cuts professionally.

First Aid Nicks

Apply styptic liquids or powders with sterile cotton buds or similar – dispose of in appropriate sealed waste bag. Alum sticks must only be used on the one person and then disposed of in the appropriate sealed waste bag.

Cuts

You must follow your barbershop’s first aid and accident procedures. Remember you must not come into contact with the client’s blood, but the blood flow must be stopped. This can be done by wearing protective gloves and holding damp, sterile cotton wool over the cut until the bleeding ceases. Alternatively, you could give the cotton wool to the client and ask them to hold it over the cut themselves

Any accidents must be written into the barbershop accident book.

Notes.

Why it is important to protect clients from hair clippings

It may be necessary for you to remove excessive facial hair with clippers, scissors or outliners prior to the shave. This is best carried out before the client is reclined for the shaving service.

If you do not protect the client from these hair clippings they may stay on his clothes after he has left your barbershop or the clippings may go down his collar and cause irritation.

You must avoid this by correctly following a procedure using protective equipment.

The procedure for client preparation and protection for facial hair cutting:

• keep the client sat upright

• apply a disposable neck strip to the client’s collar area

• spread the gown and secure

• place a clean tissue or napkin on the headrest and adjust for the client’s comfort

• place slightly dampened warm pads over the client’s eyes to protect from clippings

• have eye goggles available for your own use

• try and avoid cut hairs working their way down under the client’s clothing and onto his skin to prevent discomfort and possible irritation or inflammation

• you should constantly use a neck brush to maintain client comfort

• you should ensure all clippings are removed from face, neck and gown

Following the removal of excessive facial hair you should remove the gown, shake off all clippings, replace the gown and the procedure for the shaving service should be applied.

Refer to Handout GB6.2.1 for the procedure for client preparation and protection for facial hair shaving.

Notes.

The position of your client and yourself during the shave is important. Poor posture can result in you feeling extra tired and injury to your back and limbs.

How the position of your client and yourself can affect the desired outcome and reduce fatigue and the risk of injury and the importance of using the correct type of barbers chair for the shaving services Notes.

Positioning yourself and your client correctly and comfortably ensures:

• a good view of shaving strokes

• good safe shaving techniques

• professionalism

• less stress for the client

• less stress for the barber

• less fatigue or back and limb strain for the barber

• less chance of injury to the client

Selecting the correct shaving height

To ensure the client is at the correct position for a shave the client must be gently reclined into position. The height of client’s face should match the barber’s lowered arm, half way between elbow and wrist.

Don’t get too close when carrying out facial hair cutting or shaving - note an old barbering saying:

“The amateur hovers over his work, the master stands back away from it.”

The safety considerations which must be taken into account when shaving

You must be fully aware of the extreme sharpness of both the fixed razor and the detachable blade razor. In addition both you and your client must be protected from blood borne diseases such as human immunodeficiency virus (HIV) and Hepatitis B.

You must carry out the shaving service in a safe professional manner. Try to ensure that there is an atmosphere of relaxation. Keep conversation light and to a minimum.

Safety considerations for razors

You must be aware that a razor is considered to be one of the sharpest instruments known – comparable to the surgeon’s scalpel.

• never place a razor or any other cutting tool in a pocket

• when passing a razor to someone always close the razor and pass it tang (the little curved part) first

• refuse to accept a razor presented to you head/point first, ask for it to be reversed

During shaving

• always work under expert supervision until you become competent

• whilst shaving, keep the grip of the razor firm – but not too tight (to prevent tension or muscle strain)

• keep your gloved hands dry – use a little powder to ensure grip

• keep relaxed – avoid sudden movements and be aware of others in close proximity

• check the floor is free from clippings or spillages – lessening the risk of slipping

• do not carry out facial hair cutting or shaving service on a client you suspect has contra-indications

• do not carry out shaving service on a client you suspect is affected by drugs or alcohol

After the shave

• take great care when cleaning the edge of a razor and note that the edge will quite easily cut through a towel or tissue

• place the razor in the disinfectant jar in a closed position when sterilising

• do not allow anyone to examine or play with the razor

• be aware of children’s curiosity of razors – and keep well out of their reach

Why it is important to avoid cross-infection

The serious implications of blood borne diseases such as HIV/ Hepatitis B have now made it very important to be aware of the dangers of cross-infection through open wounds.

Drawing blood from very small ‘nicks’ is all it takes for the client (or barber) to be susceptible to blood borne diseases.

The barber should wear protective gloves for shaving the outlines and be able to apply first aid to all nicks and cuts.

Prevention of cross-infection or infestation

• ensure you are free from any infection or infestation

• through consultation and observation, establish if the client has any cuts or abrasions on his face and neck. If you suspect that an infection or infestation is present, you must not carry out the shaving service

• if an infection or infestation is present, or you suspect one is present, discreetly and professionally advise the client to seek medical attention and only to return when there are no contraindications

• don’t forget to wash your hands thoroughly before and after you have completed the service

Infections and infestations can be personally incapacitating and may give the business a bad reputation.

Notes.

A barbershop which carries out best practice of health, safety and hygiene will benefit from the reputation it earns.

Why it is important to keep your work area clean and tidy

The constant cleaning and tidying of a work area will reduce the risks of cross-infection/infestation and promote professionalism.

• keeping the work area tidy demonstrates safer working practice by having control of the working environment and conditions

• attending to trailing cables etc. reduces risk of damage to equipment and tools

• storing away equipment and tools that are no longer needed creates a safe and tidy environment

• tidying and replenishing products and tools improves efficiency by not wasting time looking for stock and replacements

• a clean and tidy work area reflects pride and gives a favourable impression to clients

Remember first impressions count, a new client may be put off if they see an unclean and untidy workplace, so it is very important to eliminate the conditions that put clients off returning.

There is everything to gain from good housekeeping – and everything to lose from bad housekeeping!

Barbers are constantly thinking of new ways to attract clients – it is just as important to look around the barbershop and identify those things that may dissuade a client from returning.

Notes.

The importance of positioning tools and equipment for ease of use

You should carefully prepare your workplace for the shaving service –the choice of equipment, tools and products will be the result of your consultation prior to the service.

Remember to consider other factors – it is possible that you may have to remove the beard and moustache hair prior to the shave or the requirement of a sponge shave.

It is important to position tools and equipment for ease of use for the following reasons:

• it reinforces your preparation procedures

• it improves your safe working practice

• it reduces the risk of damage to equipment and tools

• it reduces the risk of injury to yourself by overstretching

• it improves efficiency

• it reflects professionalism

Remember to place all the required equipment and tools on the work surface – have the most frequently used tools on your right-hand side (left side if lefthanded).

Remember you need to be with your client throughout the shaving service. Wandering off to attend to other clients or searching for tools or products is not professional.

Notes.

Methods of cleaning, disinfection and sterilisation used in barbershops

Sterilisation destroys all micro-organisms and prevents cross-infection.

Disinfection inhibits the growth of microorganisms (except spores) and helps to prevent cross-infection.

The methods of sterilising tools and equipment in a barbershop are:

• moist heat

• dry heat

• chemicals - disinfectant

• ultraviolet rays

Moist heat

• this is a very effective method of sterilising all tools

• moist heat is created by the use of an autoclave which heats water to a very high temperature – higher than boiling

• it creates super-heated steam - hot enough to quickly kill most common bacteria found in barbershops.

• small, hand-held tools are put into the autoclave, sealed and the water inside is brought to the required temperature

• the temperature is maintained for the time necessary to ensure that all bacteria are dead then the water is allowed to cool before the tools are removed

• the main disadvantage of this method of sterilisation is you need to have sufficient supplies of tools to allow you to work on other clients while the autoclave is in use and you must buy combs that can withstand very high temperatures if they are to go into the autoclave

Dry heat

• this method of sterilisation is rarely used in barbershops

• high temperatures (of dry heat) are created in an oven

• the disadvantage is that although bacteria are effectively killed by this method tools can be damaged because they are held in the heat for an extended time

• towels used to be sterilised by this method, but there are now pre-packed towels available that have been sterilised by this means, ready for use.

Chemicals - Disinfectant

• most often used in barbershops and are effective if used correctly

• tools are required to be washed before placing into the disinfectant solution

• they must be left in the disinfectant long enough for it to do its job

• the fluid must fully cover the item and may take up to an hour to disinfect

• as with using an autoclave, barbers must have enough tools to allow for the time to disinfect

UV light rays:

• uses ultraviolet (UV) light rays to kill bacteria

• the tools must be cleaned then placed into the UV cabinet

• the UV light only sterilises those areas that it reaches

• the items will require turning so that all surfaces are treated

UV cabinets are also suitable for storing tools disinfected or sterilised by another method

Methods of disinfection and sterilisation used in barbershops (cont)

Remember to clean and sterilise/disinfect all tools and equipment immediately after the facial shaving service. Notes.

Methods of working safely and hygienically and which minimise the risk of cross-infection and cross-infestation

The Health and Safety at Work Act requires that all people work safely. We have a duty to our clients and our work colleagues to be aware of situations and conditions that may be harmful to them. This responsibility is not confined to just the barbershop, but also to the entrance, reception, staff room, toilets, cloakroom, stock room and waste disposal areas

You must ensure that you:

• have created enough working space

• are using safe shaving techniques

• regularly check the safety of all electrical equipment

• adequately clean, disinfect and/or sterilise tools

• constantly keep your work area clean and tidy throughout the service

• use all tools with care

• ensure that you use tools only for their intended purpose

• position the client for comfort and ease of working

• dispose of all waste according to local by-laws and barbershop requirements

• ensure that you use nitrile or vinyl gloves

You must be aware of:

• methods of safe and hygienic working practice

• soiled or unclean equipment, tools and products and the responsibility to attend to them

• your work area being consistently kept clean and tidy

• the floor area being regularly swept and kept clean and tidy

• the need to remove/dispose of soiled, unclean or unnecessary equipment, tools and products

• correct disposal methods of blood soiled waste products

• the knowledge of potential infection and infestation conditions

• the requirement to recognise potential infection and infestation conditions Notes.

The correct use and maintenance of shaving tools and equipment

To provide a good service you must regularly inspect, test and maintain a wide variety of shaving tools and equipment.

Shaving tools and equipment that are required to be maintained are:

• barber’s chair

• sterilising equipment

• clippers/outliners

• scissors

• combs

• razors

• shaving brushes

• shaving bowl

• neck brush

Barber’s chair

The barber’s chair is specifically designed for tilt back operation in order to carry out facial services such as shaving, beard and moustache trimming and face massage.

• it requires constant maintenance and inspections ensuring locking device and hydraulics are functional and that the backrest is safe and functional. In addition, the headrest must be in good repair and functional

Sterilising equipment

Autoclaves/sterilising cabinet used to sterilise and retain tools ready for their use

• they require regular cleaning as well as their electrical connection checks

Disinfectant jars – They are usually made of glass and designed to contain disinfectant solutions

• they require regular cleaning and solution strength check

Clippers/outliners

These can be either mains powered or rechargeable and are designed to remove hair efficiently to the required length

• they require constant safety checks, oiling, cleaning, sterilising or disinfecting (clipper head only) and cable connection checks

Scissors/thinning scissors

Used to cut facial fair

• should be re-ground regularly to maintain sharpness. They require general checking procedures and constant cleaning/sterilising

Combs

They are used to de-tangle facial hair and arrange hair for cutting

• they require constant cleaning/ sterilising/disinfecting, dispose of any with missing teeth

Razors

The open blade and disposable razors are used to remove facial hair through the shaving procedure

• these both require general checking procedures and constant cleaning/ sterilising

Shaving brushes

Used to apply lather and help soften bristles

• requires periodic inspection for ‘being of good standard’ and needs constant cleaning/sterilising procedures

Shaving bowl

This is used to mix and contain lather if required

• should be ‘of good standard’ and be constantly cleaned and sterilised

Neck brush

This is used to brush away hair clippings and maintain client comfort

• it needs to be ‘of good standard’ and constantly cleaned and sterilised

The importance of personal hygiene

You should be aware that during the shaving service you will be leaning closely towards the client. However you can avoid being too close by learning to extend your arms when carrying out shaving strokes and try to avoid leaning too far over and pressing against the client.

The barber should:

• wear clean, stain free clothes, freshly laundered and professional in appearance

• wear clean pairs of socks

• wear clean underwear

• have clean hands

• have clean and well maintained nails

• be aware of personal body odour

• have fresh breath

• have brushed teeth

• avoid strong smelling food items eaten shortly before carrying out the shaving service

The business may suffer if the barbershop gets a reputation for staff who do not pay attention to personal freshness.

Discuss the following points with other members of your group or with your trainer:

• what would you do if one member of staff came to you complaining of another member of staff with body odour

• a client who complained to you about a member of staff with body odour

• how would you politely and kindly tell someone they have a problem with body odour

• how do you think someone with body odour affects the rest of the barbershop or barbershop staff (and clients)

• how would you deal with someone who having been told they have a problem with body odour, does not improve

Notes.

The importance of questioning clients to establish contraindications to the shaving service

Although most barbers consult with clients it is often quite an informal process with only the minimum of notes taken, if any. Because of the increase in cases of litigation it is becoming more and more necessary for professional barbers to be able to show that they have asked clients appropriate questions prior to providing a service.

During the consultation, besides determining the client’s wishes, you must also identify any contra-indications to the service. You should ask detailed questions and if a contra-indication is identified it may limit or prevent the service from being carried out.

For example contra-indications such as:

• skin disorders - psoriasis and eczema

• skin sensitivity and skin allergies

• cuts and abrasions

• infections or infestations.

Why you should record the client’s responses to your questions

You should make sure that the client signs that the record made of their responses is accurate and true.

The law will take the stance that the client is not knowledgeable enough to make judgements, but that the barber is.

Therefore, although a signed statement is a safeguard, it is only a small safeguard.

Remember: the main reason why evidence should be recorded is to ensure the business/barber has substantial evidence in the event of a dispute.

Notes.

The legal significance of client questioning and recording the client’s responses and the importance of keeping and maintaining client records

You will be questioning the client to find out if they have any contra-indications that would prevent a service from being carried out.

After you have consulted and questioned the client all details of any contraindications and responses to questions must be recorded on the client’s record card for future reference.

If these details are not recorded you may be putting the business at risk from legal action –for example a client may not be happy with the service and decide to seek compensation. If the barbershop cannot prove they were not negligent they would lose any legal action.

Clients want:

• good quality service

• in the most economic time.

Clients are usually prepared to pay well for this level of service and they do not hesitate to complain if they do not get what they think they are paying for. Complaints must be dealt with properly and quickly. If clients think that you will not or can’t do anything about the problem they sometimes take legal action. If this happens you must be able to show that you have taken all reasonable steps to prevent accidents or unsatisfactory results.

What might happen in cases when a business or a barber relies on memory of verbal discussions and agreements with clients? _________________________ _________________________

What records do you think should be kept? _________________________ _________________________

litigation against barbers is something that now happens regularly and you must be aware of this and take all possible steps to ensure that, if it happens to you, you can provide proof of your professionalism.

The structure of the skin

Epidermis – this is the outermost layer of the skin, which is formed from five distinct layers of cells that form stratified epithelial tissue. The cells are able to reproduce themselves in the lower layers and then continuously push their way to the surface changing as they reach each new layer until they are shed from the body in a process known as exfoliation or desquamation.

The five layers of the epidermis:

1. Stratum germinativum or basal layer

2. Stratum spinosum or prickle cell layer

3. Stratum granulosum or granular layer

4. Stratum lucidum or clear cell layer

5. Stratum corneum or horny layer

Key points to each layer: Stratum Germinativum – basal layer

• connects with the dermis

• contains one row of cells that are able to reproduce by a process of simple cell division called mitosis

• contains cells called keratinocytes, which produce a protein called keratin

• contains cells called melanocytes responsible for the formation of natural colour pigment called melanin

• nails develop from this layer of the skin

• as new cells form, old cells are pushed up to form the stratum spinosum.

Stratum Spinosum – prickle cell layer

• contains approximately ten rows of cells

• reproduction of cells continues to take place in the lower rows

• cells are starting to harden and become spiky and prickly through a process known as keratinisation

• as new cells continue to be produced, old cells are pushed up to form the stratum granulosum.

Stratum Granulosum – granular layer

• contains approximately three rows of cells

• keratinisation is completed as the cells become filled with keratin

• the cells are now dead and become flat, hard and granule-like

• a yellow pigment called carotene is found in this layer

• as new cells continue to be produced in the lower layers of the epidermis, the old cells are pushed up to form the stratum lucidum.

Stratum Lucidum – clear layer

• contains approximately three rows of cells

• the cells of this layer become clear and transparent

• the cells form a waterproof layer that is thickest on the soles of the feet and the palms of the hands

• as new cells continue to be produced in the lower layers of the epidermis, the old cells are pushed up to form the stratum corneum.

The structure of the skin

Stratum Corneum – horny layer

• contains approximately twenty rows of cells

• the cells of this layer provide the visual appearance of the skin

• as new cells continue to be produced in the lowers layers of the epidermis, the old cells are naturally shed, exfoliated or desquamated from the skin

• these cells form a large percentage of household dust.

Remember: An easy way to remember the names of the epidermis is to associate the first letters of each layer with a phrase, for example, Green Seeds Grow Long Curls

• Germinativum

• Spinosum

• Granulosum

• Lucidum

• Corneum

Dermis – this layer lies directly below the epidermis and is formed from two distinct layers of different cells that form connective tissue. The cells of the uppermost layer of the dermis connect with the cells of the lowest layer of the epidermis. The second layer makes up the bulk of the dermis and contains the many structures associated with the skin including:

• hair - extends out of the skin and is known as the hair shaft

• hair follicle – a sac-like structure that lies within the skin in which the hair grows

• sebaceous glands – small glands which produce the skin’s natural oil known as sebum

• arrector pili muscle – tiny muscles that attach to the hair follicle and the epidermis, when these muscles contract they pull the skin to form ‘goose bumps’

• pore – a tiny opening that leads from the dermis onto the surface of the skin

• sweat glands – sweat producing glands situated within the dermis producing sweat as part of a process called excretion

• sweat ducts – small tubes that lead from the sweat glands in the dermis to a pore or opening onto the surface of the skin in which sweat travels

• circulation – a network of blood and lymphatic vessels leading to and from the cells of the skin and its structures. These vessels carry nutrients to the cells and waste products away, helping to keep the cells healthy

• nerve supply – a network of nerves that link the skin with the nervous system allowing the skin to respond to changes in temperature, pressure and pain.

Subcutaneous layer – lies directly below the dermis and contains a network of fat cells collectively known as adipose tissue.

The structure of the skin

Name the five layers of the epidermis

The factors that must be taken into consideration prior to and during the shaving service and why

Before and during the shaving service there are factors that must be taken into consideration.

The factors are:

• facial contours

• hair growth patterns

• adverse skin conditions

• unusual features

• client’s wishes

• facial piercing

• hair density

Factor Why the factor must be considered

Facial contours

Hair growth patterns

Adverse skin conditions

Unusual features

Client’s wishes

Facial piercing

Hair density

Remember that clients sometimes use facial hair to hide scars or to disguise features such as abnormal ear shape, nose size or chin length.

Handout

Handout(1 of 2)

The scalp and facial skin disorders commonly affecting men and how to recognise them

Treatment

Infectious?

GP referral

GP referral

GP referral

GP referral

GP or Pharmacy referral

GP or Pharmacy referral

GP or Pharmacy referral

GP or Pharmacy referral

Yes

Yes

Symptoms

Cause

An infection of the hair follicles. Swollen, raised painful pus filled spots

Bacteria

Irritating infection found on hairy parts of the face around the follicle. Small, yellow inflamed spots

Bacteria

An infection of the skin. Burning sensation developing into spots, which dry into honey coloured crusts. Sometimes caused by infected ingrowing hairs

Bacteria

An infection of the hair follicles. Yellow pus filled spots around the opening of the follicle.

Bacteria

Burning sensation followed by development of blisters that burst and dry into scabs (normally around the mouth and nose).

Virus attacks lower epidermis. Raised rounghened skin commonly found on hands, feet or face

Red active ring spreads in a circular shape filling the centre with dull, grey scales of dead keratin. Hair will be broken close to the skin

Mite which burrow under the skin to lay eggs, causing intense irritation. Spread by close contact.

Disease or disorder

Boils and abscesses (furunculosis)

Barber’s itch (sycosis barbae)

Impetigo

Folliculitis

Viral

Viral

Fungal

Infestation

Cold sore (herpes simplex)

Warts and verrucae

Ringworm of the head (tinea capitis)

Scabies

Treatment

GP or Pharmacy referral

GP or Pharmacy referral

GP or Pharmacy referral

Treatment shampoo or trichological referral

GP or trichological referral

Medicated shampoo irritation

GP

GP or trichological referral

Handout(2 of 2)

Handout

Infectious?

Yes

No

No

No

No

No

No

No

Symptoms

Cause

Infestation Parasite that sucks blood from the scalp and lays eggs on the hair shaft. Causes irritation and is spread by head to head contact

Increased activity of the sebaceous ducts leading to raised, swollen, red or pus filled spots

Hormone imbalance

Blocked sebum in distended sebaceous gland leads to formation of lumps

Disorder of the sebaceous gland

Excessively oily skin and greasy, lank hair

Disorder of the sebaceous gland

Hair loss that can occur in small patches or total hair loss of the body

Disorder of the hair, cause unknown

Dry, scaling, flaky patches on the scalp. Some conditions can be moist and greasy

Fungal or product

Symptoms range from slight reddening of the skin; to split, weeping skin

Disorder of the skin caused by allergens

Raised, scaly patches of skin. Can occur on the head or on the skin

Disorder of the skin, cause unknown

Disease or disorder

Head lice (pediculosis capitis)

Acne

Sebaceous cyst

Seborrhoea

Alopecia

Dandruff (pityriasis capitis)

Eczema and dermatitis

Psoriasis

The importance of lathering and the function it performs on the skin and the hair

The use of lather in the shaving process is a very important one. Extra time and effort spent on lathering and softening facial hair will ensure an easier and more comfortable shaving experience – benefiting both the client and the barber.

Lathering is important because it:

• removes dirt

• softens the hair

The function of lathering is to:

• lift and pack individual hairs so that they stand erect from the skin for cutting

• lubricate the face to enable the razor to glide more easily

Modern lathers generally contain conditioners and come in the form of creams, soaps, gels and oils.

Their selection type will be mainly your decision based on the client’s skin and facial hair type.

Remember lather should be of the correct consistency – not too dry and not too runny.

To attain this correct consistency you will need to practise and experiment with different types of lathers.

Notes.

The effects of heat on the hair and skin

Hot towels are used to directly apply heat to the facial hair and skin. By massaging the facial hair with a shaving brush and your fingertips you can sustain the heat by stimulating the blood capillaries.

The effect of heat on the hair

When hot towels are applied and the facial hair is massaged, the heat works with the lather to swell and help soften the beard, this makes the hair easier to shave.

The effect of heat on the skin

• it stimulates the oil producing glands making the shaving strokes smoother

• it relaxes the muscles, making tensioning and shaving easier

• it relaxes the client and helps promote a sense of wellbeing

You will need to practise the application of hot towels and personally experience their effect on your own skin, this will help you judge the correct temperature that the hot towels need to be applied at.

Notes.

The potential risk of ingrowing hair resulting from continual close shaving

There is a the risk of ingrowing hair occurring due to continual close shaving procedures – such as using the sponge shaving technique.

A definition of ingrowing hair is ‘hair that has been closely shaved off and as it grows re-enters the skin’

The actions of continually close shaving on the client may create a potential risk of ingrowing hair, which may lead to:

• infection of the skin

• irritation

• conditions such as impetigo and folliculitis

Although ingrowing hair affects a small percentage of men and more commonly those with very curly hair, this condition can cause severe discomfort and lead to an infection.

If the client continues to shave closely (in an attempt to keep ahead of the hair re-entering the skin) the condition may become worse.

When is the sponge shaving technique normally used?

Notes.

Shaving equipment

You will need to be aware that for the service of shaving, you will be using a variety of tools specifically designed for the purpose. It is important that you fully understand their use and application.

Disposable blade razors consist of blade and handle and are attached via a pivot point allowing the blade to be safely stored within the handle.

The disposable blade razor is now the preferred choice for professional shaving because they are more hygienic than fixed blade razors. They are designed to be very similar to a hollow ground razor but have disposable blades which are easily replaced.

Reminder If, during the shaving service, the disposable blade becomes blunt, a new blade will have to be inserted. The new razor blade must then be sterilised/ disinfected.

Notes.

How to prepare an open blade razor with disposable blade for use

Because disposable blade razors are very sharp tools, you must prepare them under supervision until you are competent.

Do not carry out the following procedures unless supervised.

Preparation of disposable blade razor

1. Visually inspect the razor’s condition and suitability for use. The razor should be cleaned and disinfected/sterilised, according to the manufacturer’s instructions and the material from which it is manufactured.

2. Select a disposable blade, but do not remove it from its sterile sealed packaging until immediately prior to use.

3. Fit a new, sterile disposable blade; remember, a new one for every client.

Reminder Dispose of the old blade in the appropriate sharps container.

Notes.

How to prepare and use lathering products correctly

The use and the action of brushing or massaging the lather in during the shaving process is a very important one. Extra time and effort spent on lathering and softening facial hair will ensure an easier and more comfortable shaving experience. This will benefit both the client and the barber.

The lathering products are:

Instant lather creams, gels and oils

These may be applied with either brush or gloved fingers.

Preparation and how to use:

• read the manufacturer’s instructions

• produce a creamy lather that will not dry out too soon or be runny

• if the shaving brush and shaving bowl are used, they must be fit for the purpose and thoroughly sterilised

When using the lathering product:

• try to keep conversation to a minimum whilst applying the lather – the client could end up with some lather in his mouth

• create an atmosphere of relaxation by keeping background noise and music to a minimum

Using a shaving brush:

• if you are applying lather to the facial hair with a shaving brush, use a confident circular motion, continually working the lather in to soften the hairs. Then, immediately follow this up with a firm circular massage of the face using gloved fingers

Using gloved fingers:

• if you are only applying the lather with gloved fingers – apply and immediately follow this up with a firm circular massage of the facial hair

Use a tissue to wipe away any lather that has strayed onto nose, ears or moustache.

Notes.

The types of finishing products available for use and their effects on skin

A client who has just undergone a professional facial hair shave (with or without a face massage) may request a finishing product to produce a calming or bracing effect on the skin.

Therefore, you will need to stock a wide selection of quality products for barbershop use and for retail.

Finishing products vary in their aroma, so check their suitability with the client before you apply them. What may smell nice to you may not be appealing for the client.

The most popular finishing products available are:

• astringents

• moisturising balms

• powder

Astringents

When applying aftershave, you must remember that the skin will be sensitive, so apply sparingly at first and then add more if required.

Aftershave lotion is used as an astringent, which means it has the following effects:

• tightens the pores

• freshens the skin

• removes grease

• cools and soothes the skin

Moisturising balms

These are less astringent than aftershave lotions. They will smooth and soothe skin and replace lost oils or moisture.

Powder

Non perfumed, talc free powder is applied lightly to soothe and smooth the skin.

The barber should analyse the effects of the shave and be prepared to suggest the correct finishing product.

Suggestion Try out the various types of products on yourself to experience the effects they give. Discuss the results with your trainer, group members or colleagues.

Notes.

When not to carry out shaving

After consultation and confirming with your client the agreed look, certain conditions may exist when it is not advisable to carry out, or continue with, the shaving service.

The shaving service should not be carried out when:

• the client appears intoxicated or affected by drugs

• the client reports an infection or infestation

• you suspect the client has an infection or infestation

If, during or after the consultation, you decide not to carry out the shaving service, be tactful and professional when informing the client of your decision.

Do not create embarrassing conditions for the client by attracting attention. Talk in a controlled, quiet manner and if appropriate advise him to seek medical attention.

It may only be apparent after starting the shave that a client has any of the above conditions. If you are unsure, consult with your manager or a more senior member of staff.

You are advised and are quite within your rights, to abandon the facial hair shaving service at any stage if you consider there are contra-indications or concerns for your own personal safety.

Notes.

Reducing the beard length prior to shaving

If the facial hair has grown to beard length it is unwise to attempt to shave it with a razor. It should be removed with either scissors or clippers to a length of one day’s growth.

The shorter the facial hair is cut, the less resistance to the softening of the facial hair and a better standard of client comfort shave will be achieved.

It is best to remove the facial hair before reclining the client into the position for shaving. This allows the client to see and comment on areas of facial hair that he wishes to retain or have removed.

It is necessary to reduce beard length prior to shaving when:

• there is an excessive amount of beard hair

• the beard hair is coarse in texture and will resist the shaving and lathering techniques

• the facial hair design needs to be created first

It is necessary to reduce beard length prior to shaving because:

• the closer you can cut the beard hair with clippers or scissors the more comfortable the shaving service will be for the client

• a significant reduction of the length of the beard and the softer it is made, will allow for a better lathering process and shaving standard

• the facial hair design can be followed more easily

Reminder Remember to prepare and protect the client from facial hair clippings – see Handout GB6.2.1.

Notes.

How to carry out the shaving techniques listed in the range

The shaving techniques listed in the range are:

• skin tensioning

• forehand razoring

• backhand razoring

• sponge shaving

Skin tensioning

The hand that is not holding the razor is called the tensioning hand. It is important to keep the gloved hand dry to prevent slipping on the face – you can use a little talc free powder to help with this.

The tensioning hand is placed at the back of the razor in order to stretch the skin under the razor before carrying out each stroke.

Forehand razoring and Backhand razoring

Forehand strokes or freehand strokes are made towards you – backhand or reverse hand strokes are made away from you.

Perform the stroke with a single gliding movement, using shorter strokes on smaller areas. The shaving angle is around 40–45°. The action should be light and free moving with not too much pressure.

Sponge shaving

This is performed to produce a very close shave. A new sponge for each client is required.

A clean and sterilised sponge is dipped in reasonably warm, but not too hot water and slowly drawn across the face with the razor closely following.

The close cut is achieved through the sponge lubricating the skin and thus raising the hairs up for the razor to cut them off. Take care not to shave the skin too close with this technique.

Suggestion Try tensioning your own facial skin in order to get accustomed to the pressure required.

Practice holding a dummy razor in forehand and backhand grip. Hold a dummy razor in forehand grip and whilst retaining grip, twist hand around to perform backhand grip.

Notes.

Standardised shaving stroke techniques for right and lefthanded barbers.

• left handed barbers would simply operate from the other side of the client and carry out strokes in reverse order

Why skin needs to be tensioned during shaving

If the skin is not tensioned during shaving, the razor strokes will push up the skin as it moves, causing discomfort to the client and increasing the chance of injury.

The tensioning of the skin and the shaving strokes must work in harmony and be completed in a logical order around the face. That is to say, the newly shaved area becomes the next surface for providing the tensioning.

Skin needs to be tensioned during shaving in order to:

• maintain client comfort

• reduce the likelihood of cutting the client

• produce a closer shave

• prevent drag on shaving strokes

• produce better resistance of erect hairs

• smooth out wrinkled areas and stop razor digging in

• contribute to creating suppleness of skin

Reminder Add a little talc free powder to your gloved fingers to improve the tensioning and reduce the risk of the razor or your tensioning hand slipping.

Notes.

The importance of adapting shaving techniques in relation to the direction of hair growth

Facial hair does not all grow in the same direction. The closest shaving techniques will only be successful when the direction of the hair growth is taken into consideration.

A first time over shave will normally remove the facial hair satisfactorily, however where the razor has shaved with the growth it may feel it has not been shaved quite as close as the facial hair that has been shaved against the growth.

It may then be necessary to repeat the shave (called second time over) and by feeling the hair growth direction, shave against that growth.

It is important to consider the direction of hair growth when shaving because:

• shaving with the facial hair movement will achieve some good results

• shaving against the movement will ensure a closer result, this is usually when a ‘second time over’ shave is performed

• clients will already know their facial hair growth directions and may point out the difficult areas of facial hair growth or direction

• clients may have whorls of facial hair –these will require being tensioned and shaved at all angles

Suggestion If you are a male learner and shave, identify your own hair growth direction.

Notes.

When and why to use brush and massage techniques to apply lathering products

Some lathering products require the use of a brush to spread the lather and soften the beard, while others can be applied by using your fingers.

When to use brush and massage techniques to apply lathering products:

• a brush can be used to apply instant lathers such as creams, gels and oils

• shaving creams, gels and oils are mainly applied straight on to the finger tips of a gloved hand and massaged into the facial hair

Lathering products are applied using a brush to:

• improve the results of softening a coarse beard prior to the shaving service

• improve the efficiency of the lathering technique

• reflect a more professional image

• improve client comfort

Lathering products are applied using massaging techniques when:

• the facial hair is not too coarse and skin texture is soft or sensitive

Reminder The lather will need to be prepared just before the application, this ensures it is the right temperature and consistency.

Take care not to allow the lather (or any other product such as aftershave) to spread to the client’s eyes, clothes, floor or surrounding area.

Notes.

The reasons for and effects of using cool towels after

shaving

It is important to understand that during a shave the skin will become quite warm. Cool towels applied after the shaving service will contribute to the temperature of the skin quickly returning it to normal.

Reminder Prior to applying cool towels – ensure the face and neck of the client are free from lather.

The reasons for using cool towels after shaving:

• the client may request a cool towel (tepid water)

• the client may request a cold towel (cold water) – but verify!

• it is an efficient way to cool the face down

• it contributes to client comfort

• it helps to close the pores of the face and reduce the risk of infection

Effects of cool towels

The actions of lathering, massaging and shaving will unavoidably irritate the skin to some degree and the blood capillaries will naturally respond by amassing at skin level to ward off potential infections. This will result in the face becoming quite warm. The application of the cool towel therefore helps cool the face and reduce the capillary reaction.

Suggestion Try carefully wetting towels to differing degrees of cold and hot and then place gently on your face.

Reminder Remember to place the hot towel very gently against your skin in order to test its heat, noting that your face will not be as warm as the client’s.

Why cold towels should not be used if the face is to be massaged

A face massage is a beneficial service that is best carried out directly after a shave, whilst the client’s skin is smooth and still warm and supple.

Cold towels should not be used if the face is to be massaged because:

• the face needs to be kept as warm as possible to attain the fullest benefit for the following face massage

• skin that is warm will respond better to the massaging techniques

• client comfort may not be maintained

Cold or tepid towels are mainly applied to quickly reduce the temperature of the face and therefore would cool down the skin too much and be counter-productive for the face massage procedure.

When and why to use sponge shaving

Shaving, with the tensioning hand holding a sponge, is a technique that is used to produce a very close shave.

Whilst the skin is being tensioned by the sponge the razor is used to shave very closely against the hair growth.

Sponge shaving should be used when:

• the client requests a very close shave

• the client has a very coarse beard and the barber suggests it

• the client has very stubborn hair growth patterns

• there are no contra-indications

• the client is made aware of the possibility of some temporary facial soreness

The reason to sponge shave is that:

• The technique of tensioning the skin with a sponge will project the bristles at the best possible angle and thus allow the razor closer access to remove the hair at its optimum closeness.

Reminder Remember the sponge must only be used once for each client.

Notes.

The importance of working in a way which maintains the right skin temperature throughout the shaving process

It is important to maintain client comfort throughout the shaving process.

Maintaining the right skin temperature can be achieved by:

• good preparation – have all equipment, tools and products to hand

• attend to the client all through the service

• ensuring you are not distracted by telephone calls, etc.

• efficient lathering, massaging and shaving techniques

• preparing and maintaining a continual supply of hot water

In addition, working in a warm, draught free environment will be beneficial in maintaining the right skin temperature.

Notes.

Problems which may arise during the shaving process and ways of resolving such problems.

You should have an understanding of the problems that may arise during the shaving process, for this understanding may assist in resolving the problems.

The problems that may arise during the shaving process are:

• you may have shaved the client’s skin too close

• you may have caused damage to the client’s skin

• you may have caused damage to your own skin

Problem Solution

Shaving the client’s skin too close, leading to

• sore skin

• damage to client’s skin

Tell client not to shave for one or two days

• limit the shave to ‘once over’

• stop shaving if very sore

• apply suitable aftershave productmoisturiser or aftershave balm

• attend to wound using correct first aid procedures

• adjust the requirements for hot or cool towels

• do not give a face massage

• advise the client not to shave around the area of the wound for a day or two

• damage to own skin

• attend to wound using correct first aid procedures

• dress and fully protect the wound, covering it completely

• enquire if the client objects to you continuing the shaving service

• consider discontinuing the shave

Always remain calm and act professionally and offer positive advice that will be of benefit to the client.

Suitable shaving equipment and products for home use that will benefit the client and those to avoid and why

An important part of the shaving service is aftercare advice.

You must use your skills and expertise to recommend suitable products and equipment for clients to use at home.

The types of suitable shaving products for the client’s home use are based on your professional analysis of the client’s skin type and facial hair condition.

For example, you may recommend:

• using a shaving brush to increase softness of coarse beard

• spending extra time and effort softening the beard by using finger massage on the beard

• using moisturisers to replace natural oils that are lost by lather

• skin fresheners to stimulate skin tone

• aftershave for a bracing effect

• moisturising balms for a toning, soothing and hydrating effect

• light powder to soothe and smooth the skin

Notes.

How the client should shave effectively

How the client should shave effectively will be based on your professional analysis – on him either having a complete clean area of beard and moustache – or his own facial hair design and whether he prefers to shave wet or dry.

You may wish to offer advice on effective shaving at home by:

• recommending the client collects together and prepares all the required equipment and products for shaving

• suggesting he creates a little bit of extra time to shave himself

• enquiring what type of shave he prefers – dry (electric shaver) or wet (safety razor blade)

For a dry shave

This advice would be for a client with no more than approximately two days growth.

Tell the client to:

• thoroughly wash and dry his face

• re-wash facial hair and for about a minute soften with massage techniques

• rinse off beard and neck area – and towel dry thoroughly

Remind the client to allow a few extra minutes for facial hair to dry thoroughly.

• dry shave using electric shaver following manufacturer’s recommendations of shaving technique

Some electric shavers work best in a rotary action, some up and down - but both usually with advice to tension the skin whilst shaving.

• electric shavers are not usually suitable for extra facial hair design requirements however ‘home use’ outliners are now available

• on completion, wait a minute or so and apply personal choice of aftershave or moisturiser

For wet shave

This advice would be for a client with no more than approximately two days growth.

Tell the client to:

• thoroughly wash his face

• rinse and dry non-facial hair areas, leaving facial hair damp

• apply the lather and with either the shaving brush (recommended) or fingers, then massage and soften facial hair – for about a minute

• re-lather and mark out the facial hair design area by removing the lather where the design is to be left on

• using a clean and sharp safety razor, shave off facial hair, not forgetting to tension skin with free hand

• after the once over, run the fingers over face to detect missed or opposite growth patterns

• attend to missed areas by using opposite tensioning and shaving strokes

• rinse off with tepid to cool water – pat dry face and neck – attend to slight nicks or cuts, by using alum powder or similar, rather than tiny bits of paper

• use home outliner to attend to outlines or moustache lines

• on completion, wait a minute or so and apply personal choice of aftershave or moisturiser etc. .

Homecare advice leaflet

Design an advisory leaflet that clients can take home, giving tips for successful home shaving. Produce the leaflet using ICT. Illustrations can be included too. Design your leaflet to be A4 in size, so that it can be folded into three.