The Franschhoek Motor Museum is a world class facility situated on the L’Ormarins Estate in the majestic Franschhoek Valley, which is a 1 hour/75 kilometres drive from central Cape Town. The museum’s Cape Dutch architecture reflects the area’s origins and exhibition space covers 2 700 m2. Set amongst some expansive lawns, four spacious display halls are de-humidified to preserve the ageing machinery and each holds around 20 vehicles at any one time, all mounted on individual plinths that allow clear viewing. Collectively, the halls offer visitors a special opportunity to take a luxury ride down memory lane looking at almost 120 years of motoring history through regularly changing themed displays of vehicles, motorcycles, bicycles and memorabilia.
The birth of the museum’s collection took place in 1974 with the establishment of a transport museum at the Heidelberg railway station in Gauteng. Initiated and backed by local entrepreneur and conservationist Dr Anton Rupert, his enthusiasm and appreciation of the automobile led to an ongoing acquisition of a large number of vehicles both individually and from other collections, which ultimately led to a decision in 2004 to relocate the museum’s contents to the family’s estate
in Franschhoek. Dr Rupert passed away in 2006, shortly before the new museum was opened on 7 May 2007, but his equally auto-enthusiast son Johann has continued to develop the museum’s eminence.
From the rare to the exotic, from the innovative to the commercial, this superb 300+ collection of vehicles, most of which are in show condition, has been brought together not only from within South Africa but from around the globe. The oldest is a 1898 Beeston motor tricycle – a 1903 Ford Model A is the oldest fourwheeler. Among the unique models are examples of South Africa’s only two totally home-grown marques, the GSM Dart/Flamingo and the Protea.
The Franschhoek Motor Museum’s ever-expanding inventory rivals that of most similar private collections around the world and represents a living tribute to one family’s passion for the automobile. For video and photo galleries of the collection, monthly newsletters and any other information about the museum, log on to www.fmm.co.za.
Welcome to The Balmoral
The Balmoral is centrally located on Durban’s Golden Mile, with the sun-kissed beach on our doorstep and a short walking distance from the shopping and business district, the Durban ICC, Suncoast Casino & Entertainment World and the popular uShaka Marine World.
The hotel features an old charm, as it was originally a colonial homestead. The original façade has been retained as well as many of the other original furnishings. To meet the needs of the modern traveller, it has been completely refurbished with the latest amenities, yet keeping to its unique charm.
Whether you’re in Durban for business or pleasure, the best of both worlds can certainly be found at The Balmoral.
Welcome to The Capetonian
Welcome to The Capetonian
Conveniently situated between the vibrant Atlantic Seaboard and Table Mountain, The Capetonian provides the ideal option for both business and leisure travellers. With CTICC on our doorstep and the popular V&A Waterfront and Cape Town’s CBD within walking distance, it is the perfect base from which to explore the majestic Mother City.
Conveniently situated between the vibrant Atlantic Seaboard and Table Mountain, The Capetonian provides the ideal option for both business and leisure travellers. With CTICC on our doorstep and the popular V&A Waterfront and Cape Town’s CBD within walking distance, it is the perfect base from which to explore the majestic Mother City.
Our welcoming reception flows up to our modern guest rooms, offering quality and comfort. Savour locally inspired dishes at our strictly Halaal in-house restaurant, On the Square. Indulge in our delicious buffet or á la carte lunch and dinner menus – freshly prepared to delight your taste buds.
Our welcoming reception flows up to our modern guest rooms, offering quality and comfort. Savour locally inspired dishes at our strictly Halaal in-house restaurant, On the Square. Indulge in our delicious buffet or á la carte lunch and dinner menus – freshly prepared to delight your taste buds.
Welcome to the inaugural African Business Awards, South Africa’s premier awards for leaders & businesses in South Africa. The result is that committed South Africans, from across all sectors, are motivated to pursue equally impressive success. All individuals and organizations are honored for their contribution to the South African economy.
Hon. Gwede Mantashe Dr Mathews Phosa
John Dludlu Nkosikhona Mbatha
Travellers in Your Own Country
The pandemic has shown southern Africa can do staycations, particularly around heritage sites: could this momentum hold in the long run?
A Toast to Adventure
The tradition of capping off a safari with a G&T is entrenched in Simone Musgrave's soul, and the inspiration for her own gin brand
The New Home Away From Home
How aparthotels are replacing Airbnbs as the smart traveller's choice
Local is Lekker
38
Healthy Holidays
A boutique hotel and spa in Johannesburg offers a holistic approach to wellness, nutrition, fitness and aesthetic beauty
44
Best of Both Worlds
You'll arrive as a business traveller but leave as a holidaymaker, thanks to the business facilities and leisure activities at these hotels across the country
50
Make Tracks
Tackle these top quad biking trails around South Africa for a rugged off-road romp
60
Hidden Pearl
If it's luxury, tranquility and comfort you're after, look no further than Grande Roche Hotel and Restaurant
64
Nature's Necta r
On a rooibos tea tour, you can gain more insight into the country's favourite beverage that's now delighting palates all over the world
Into Africa
Conscious Choices
Crafted Africa shares how it upholds responsible tourism, valuing sustainability and focusing on community engagement and conservation in Malawi
72
In The Shadow of Mount Kilimanjaro Angama Amboseli is a new intimate lodge situated in the private Kimana Sanctuary, surrounded by the wide open plains of the Masai Mara
76
Come Hear The Smoke That Thunders
The newly opened Radisson Blu Mosi-oa-Tunya, Livingstone Resort is just minutes away from the magnificent Victoria Falls, and is being operated with the greatest respect to this special habitat
82
Where The Road Leads Enjoy the best of Namibia at your own pace on a selfdrive journey—here’s all you need to know before setting off on this memorable trip
92
Work and Play
Digital nomad visas offer the best of two worlds: what you should know before you go to Namibia
14 FROM THE EDITOR
18
CONSERVATION: Milking The Elephant Community wildlife conservation isn’t always a win-win solution: the case of Kenya’s Samburu
54 DINING DIVERSIONS: Hot Stuff Ishay Govender-Ypma dishes up the best of Durban's Indian cuisine
EDITOR FROM THE
Welcome to edition 45 of African Safaris. In a flash, the year has flown by and we’re already entering the second quarter. Such hurried times come with pressures that can drain your energy levels and leave you feeling burnt out.
After a stressful end to 2022 due to ill health, and a hectic start to 2023, I was fortunate to take some time out and luxuriate at the historic Grande Roche Hotel in Paarl. Near enough from Cape Town for a weekend break, yet far enough from the hustle and bustle, it’s the ideal pick-me-up. Rustic and peaceful, the hotel offers a five-star buffer from the outside world.
Having refreshed my batteries, I’ll be attending the World Travel Market at the Cape Town International Convention Centre in April, before I jet off to the east coast for the Tourism Indaba at the Durban ICC in May.
Highlights on the tourism industry calendar, the two conventions showcase the multitude of offerings available to those looking to explore South Africa. As always, there will be some engaging days of networking with a host of tourism players. The beauty of these shows is that they allow the smaller operators the opportunity to share space with the ‘big guys’.
I’d like to wish all travellers a safe journey— and return home refreshed and rejuvenated.
THE TEAM
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EDITORIAL SOURCES
Donovan Abrahams
Ashley van Schalkwyk ashley@avengmedia.co.za
Tania Griffin
tania@avengmedia.co.za
Kauthar Renamé
TheConversation.com
South African Tourism
Malawi Tourism
Namibia Tourism Board
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Print on Demand africansafarisint.co.za www.issuu.com
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Address: Boland Bank Building, 5th Floor, 18 Lower Burg Street, Cape Town, 8000
Nestled beneath tall, ancient trees on a bend of the N’tsiri River, Tulela is a place for guests to disconnect from the day-to-day and recharge in the elements of nature.
Whether you unwind at your own pace at our exclusive-use Tulela Safari lodge, or visit us at Mondzo lodge enjoying our luxury self-catering offering, Tulela delivers a tailored safari experience that is designed to your preference.
Community conservancies are wildlife-protected areas established on community-owned or occupied land.
Community wildlife conservation isn’t always a win-win solution: the case of Kenya’s Samburu
Community-based wildlife conservation is often promoted as a win-win solution (bit.ly/4014IAM). The idea behind this approach is that the people who live close to wildlife can be involved in protecting it and have an interest in doing so.
This results in wildlife being protected (a win for global biodiversity) and local people benefiting from conservation through tourism revenues, jobs or new infrastructure like schools, clinics and water supplies.
However, the reality of community-based wildlife conservation is sometimes less straightforward, as the experience of Kenya shows.
Kenya is home to spectacular wildlife, landscapes and cultural resources that drive the safari tourism industry. This brings in millions of visitors—and billions of US dollars—to the country annually. Yet, Kenya’s tourist attractions face significant threats. These include climate change, illegal wildlife trade, loss of habitat due to deforestation, and human–wildlife conflict. To address some of these risks, community conservancies have been established across the country.
Community conservancies are wildlife-protected areas established on community-owned or occupied land. They make up
a significant part of the wildlife protection landscape in Kenya, with implications for thousands of people.
There are currently 76 such spaces (bit.ly/3XzKJaI), covering tens of thousands of square kilometres. They date back to the 1980s, but have accelerated in number and extent over the last 20 years.
In northern Kenya, which is characterised by a wide expanse of grassland, most conservancies
are supported by the Northern Rangelands Trust (www.nrtkenya.org). This is a national non-governmental organisation (NGO) funded by global donors and international conservation agencies.
It’s difficult to establish how much funding is directed to community conservancies. In 2020, however, the Kenya Wildlife Conservancies Association (kwcakenya.com), an umbrella body, reported that the country’s conservancies incur about US$25
It’s difficult to establish how much funding is directed to community conservancies.
million in annual operational costs. This is mostly funded through donors and, to a limited extent, the government.
Over 30 years of conducting anthropological fieldwork among Samburu communities in northern Kenya, I noticed that community conservation was gaining in popularity, yet there was little evidence about its operation or effects. I conducted a study to explore the issue in more detail. This research led to a book (Conservation and Community in Kenya: Milking the Elephant, Lexington Books, 2022), which sets out the impact of conservancies on co-operation and conflict in communities.
Wildlife numbers in Kenya are declining, but more wild animals are found on conservancy land than in unprotected areas. While this is promising, my research found that conservancies increased human–wildlife conflict, with communities bearing the brunt of loss and injury caused by wildlife. Further, the economic benefits of community conservancies to members were minimal.
The roots of community conservation
Community-based conservation has its roots in the realisation that the ‘fortress model’ of conservation— which is the creation of parks and reserves that exclude all human
use—is untenable. Wild animals require vast landscapes to thrive. They cannot be contained within the boundaries of parks.
Equally, when local people are excluded from parks, they are denied access to the resources they need for survival. Treating people as less important than wildlife makes them less inclined to protect wildlife. This is particularly true in a place like northern Kenya, where livestock-herding societies like the Samburu have lived in close proximity to wildlife for centuries.
Understanding that successful conservation depends on local
populations having a stake in its success has led to efforts in Kenya to engage communities directly in conservation activities. In this approach, the community sets aside part of its land for conservation activities in exchange for anticipated benefits that will flow from conservation.
In the Samburu case, communities have set aside about 10% to 25% of their land for wildlife, and in some cases for tourism infrastructure. These conservancies are run by paid staff overseen by boards made up of community members and supported
by conservation NGOs. Livestock grazing is prohibited or severely restricted on this land.
Community conservation creates boundaries that are policed by wildlife scouts who are often armed. Although their stated role is wildlife protection, these scouts are, in fact, tasked with protecting pasture from outsiders and livestock from theft.
Heightened tensions
My research involved spending a year in several Samburu conservancies. I observed how the conservancies operated and talked
to members about how they felt about them. I conducted surveys to measure the costs and benefits incurred.
The study revealed a number of impacts of conservancies on local communities that mainly have to do with security and funding.
I found that conservancies actually heightened tensions among Samburu communities. Creating zones of land use and restricting grazing makes it necessary to maintain boundaries and refuse access to non-members. This goes against Samburu norms of allowing livestock access to pasture, particularly during dry seasons and droughts. On the other hand, members of conservancies see the policing of grazing as a benefit.
Many times in the course of my research, I heard people refer to their Samburu neighbours outside conservancy boundaries as “outsiders” or “encroachers” who must be kept out. Conservancies resemble islands around which herders must navigate to find pasture. If and when they landed on these islands, conflicts often occurred.
Additionally, the amount of funding channelled to conservancies from donor organisations was relatively large compared to other sources of support. Conservancies that have tourism facilities also earn revenue from hotel contracts, bednight charges and conservation fees.
Members perceived that there was a lot of money circulating in conservancies, controlled by the boards and staff. They reported minimal economic benefits for themselves, mostly in the form of school fees for students and sometimes an annual dividend. This fuelled suspicions among members that the money was being misused by conservancy boards and staff.
Suspicions of misuse of funds
have resulted in bitter conflicts within the community over leadership, demands for greater public accountability and legal action.
These unintended consequences of community-based conservation call for more effective models.
Conservation that places less emphasis on who may or may not use a piece of land, and which improves accountability, could result in better outcomes for both people and wildlife.
The way forward
The intentions behind communitybased conservation are laudable. It aims to correct past failures,
which include isolating wildlife in parks and excluding people from important survival resources. Yet, this approach brings its own set of challenges. There is a risk that if members don’t receive the kinds of benefits they have been promised, their support for conservation could decline—undermining the approach.
Greater engagement of members, and more accountability regarding funding and its uses, would enhance confidence and ownership among members.
Carolyn Lesorogol is assistant professor of Sociocultural Anthropology at Brown School, Washington University in St Louis
Travellers
country in your own
The pandemic has shown southern Africa can do staycations, particularly around heritage sites: could this momentum hold in the long run?
By Sophia Labadi and Francesca Giliberto
The global health crisis has shown the negative consequences of an over-reliance on international visitors as a primary source of tourism-generated income.
The COVID-19 pandemic has had a dramatic effect on the tourism industry worldwide. International arrivals dropped by 74% globally in 2020 (bit.ly/3lRaZ2d) and tourist accommodations, businesses, borders and heritage sites had to close, resulting in a loss of income for those working in the tourism sectors.
In Africa, the impact was deeply felt. In Kenya, tourist arrivals shrank from nearly 620 000 in April 2019 to 393 000 the following April. In South Africa, they fell from 10.2 million in 2019 to 2.8 million in 2020. And while almost 174 000 visited Tanzania in the third trimester of 2019, only 13 000 did so during the same period of 2020.
Yet, has this situation been such a bad thing? A number of studies have lamented that international tourism has often generated an unequal distribution of economic benefits, increased social disparities, marginalised local communities and exploited local resources. This is particularly the case in Africa, where tourism has mainly benefited international and foreign companies and individuals, with the core tools of air travels and e-commerce concentrated in the Global North.
As part of our research (bit. ly/3YHZb19), we wanted to understand whether and how the COVID-19 pandemic has been and could be used to transform the tourism sector into a more sustainable field in southern Africa.
Particularly important for us was how tourism could be improved to meet the needs and expectations of local communities in terms of enhanced living standards and quality of life. Another aspect was to explore how to safeguard the environment for the health and well-being of locals.
Interviews were carried out with tourism professionals, local community members and heritage site managers at the World Heritage Sites of Lamu Old Town in Kenya (whc.unesco.org/en/list/1055); the Stone Town of Zanzibar (bit. ly/3SaSnqj) and Kilimanjaro National Park (whc.unesco.org/en/ list/403) in Tanzania; and Robben Island (whc.unesco.org/en/list/916) and the Cape Floral Region (whc. unesco.org/en/list/1007) in South Africa.
Changing needs and expectations
The global health crisis has shown the negative consequences of an over-reliance on international visitors as a primary source of tourism-generated income. It has shown how visits of heritage sites should be diversified to make the tourism industry more resilient and sustainable.
A popular suggestion that research participants made for overcoming this issue is to stimulate domestic tourism, and regional tourism from neighbouring countries. Some of the tourism professionals interviewed,
particularly in Kenya, pointed out that since the country came out of lockdown in August 2020, domestic tourism has been blossoming, with many Kenyans visiting the Maasai Mara National Reserve, and holidaying in Lamu and other coastal destinations.
Changing the profile of tourists is a long-term challenge. As explained by a lodge manager in Kenya, exclusive hotels would rather have a low rate of occupancy rather than slash their prices and attract different, less privileged people and/ or accommodate a larger number of people.
Currently, offers target Western and international visitors through a focus on colonial history, particularly for cultural heritage destinations. Attracting local, national and regional visitors for ‘staycations’ would require changing the tourism maps and attractions, so that they focus on regional, national and local history.
This will not happen overnight, and attempts to change those maps and destinations have already faced serious challenges. In the case of Namibia, the government and international community have sought to refocus tourism on the country’s war of independence and indigenous communities rather
Attracting local, national and regional visitors for ‘staycations’ would require changing the tourism maps and attractions, so that they focus on regional, national and local history.
than German colonial history. These efforts have faced challenges including lack of support from the private sector as well as inadequate infrastructures and facilities.
Travel bounces back With wide-scale vaccination and reduced rates of contamination, international travel is on the rise again. Unfortunately, some projects funded by international aid have fallen back on recipes from before the pandemic, providing training and capacity-building activities so that locals can cater to the needs
of international visitors. Instead of helping change the narrative and build a more resilient sector based on local, national and regional visitations, the international community is back to promoting the unsustainable model that was dominant before the pandemic.
One positive aspect of the pandemic has been a greater environmental sustainability, the reduction of pollution, of carbon emissions, and a decrease of international tourism. Considering that these benefits can help with tackling the climate crisis, the world post-pandemic and the future of the World Heritage Convention should promote a world beyond tourism.
On Mozambique Island (whc. unesco.org/en/list/599), a World Heritage Site in the country’s north, governmental and international projects aim to promote and increase tourism.
However, a university has recently opened on the island, so why not take this opportunity to provide goods and services based on local resources to respond to the needs of students? Not only would this bottom-up approach fulfil several sustainable development goals— including education, reducing inequalities and boosting gender equality—but it would also provide a function for historic and vacant buildings on the island in dire need of a new life.
Such a move beyond tourism, which adopts a more systemic, integrated and bottom-up approach aligned with local needs, would help World Heritage Sites be better aligned with the fight against climate change, environmental protection, heritage conservation, poverty reduction and health and well-being.
Sophia Labadi is professor of Heritage at the University of Kent; Francesca Giliberto is a postdoctoral research fellow at the University of Leeds.
WHERE TO STAY NEAR THESE WORLD HERITAGE SITES
TUSITIRI DHOW
Lamu Archipelago, Kenya enasoitcollection.com
A dhow is a traditional wooden sailing boat originally built for carrying exotic spices and goods along the Indian Ocean trade routes. The Tusitiri was hand-crafted as a trading vessel over 50 years ago and has since been meticulously restored and converted into a luxurious vessel offering dhow safaris in the Lamu Archipelago. It’s ideal for families or a group of friends wanting a unique and private experience on-deck and on the water.
PARK HYATT ZANZIBAR
Zanzibar, Tanzania www.hyatt.com
Sitting majestically on the beachfront in the heart of Stone Town, the 5-star Park Hyatt Zanzibar provides the ultimate haven among the World Heritage Site’s labyrinth of winding alleys, bustling markets, mosques and famed Zanzibari doors—and the town’s key attractions are easily accessible by foot. The luxuriously appointed guest rooms feature spectacular views of dhow harbours and the Indian Ocean.
SHU’MATA CAMP
Enduimet Wildlife Management Area, Tanzania hatari.travel/shumata
Situated directly under the majestic Mount Kilimanjaro, this luxurious and rugged retreat is a permanent camp comprised of a handful of Hemingway-style tents, located on a hill in Masai tribal lands in Amboseli National Park. The tents are positioned with 360-degree views of the savannah and Kilimanjaro. You can track the resident wildlife in open game-viewing vehicles or on foot with Masai warriors, or explore the famous mountain.
CAPE GRACE
V&A Waterfront, Cape Town www.capegrace.com
The Cape Grace is situated on a private quay between Cape Town’s bustling V&A Waterfront and the tranquil yacht marina, from where you can take a ferry boat to Robben Island. Each of the 120 guest rooms and suites is completely unique and has its own ‘story’, inspired by the charm and wonder of South African and Cape heritage. Share in tailor-made experiences that include rare whisky pairings, luxurious spa treatments and indulgent afternoon teas.
THE CELLARSHOHENORT HOTEL & SPA
Constantia, Cape Town www.thecellars-hohenorthotel. com
This 5-star hotel is situated in “Cape Town’s Vineyard”—the historical Constantia Valley, a short drive from the city centre and two of the Cape Floral Region’s representative areas: Table Mountain National Park and Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens. The property features an on-site restaurant, the Fresh Wellness Spa, two pools, a gym and tennis court.
A toast to adventure
The tradition of capping off a safari with a G&T is entrenched in my soul, and the inspiration for my own gin brand
By Simone Musgrave
There’s something magical about sunsets, safaris... and gin. They marry so well, that no safari experience seems ever complete without this age-old tradition.
It’s said that when the British first arrived on the African continent, they brought with them tonic water, which worked well not only as an accompaniment to gin but also to ward off malariainfested mosquitoes. Today, there are medications for this—but thankfully, the ritual has stuck.
Gin can now be enjoyed as it comes, neat, or as a cocktail blended with some of Africa’s finest ingredients. It’s the quintessential way to toast the day’s sightings of elephant, buffalo, giraffe or lion after a day out on the African savannah. (I am, of course, slightly biased, having produced my own gin brand, Musgrave Original and Musgrave Pink, back in 2016.)
I was born and grew up in Zimbabwe and my family is one that put adventure and exploration at the centre of everything we did. My grandfather, Maurice Boon, could’ve well been one of those British explorers who sipped on gin and tonics to prevent himself from getting malaria. He’s the inspiration for my gin story, as his adventures
took him to various corners of the continent from where I today have sourced the ingredients for my gins.
One of the memories I laugh about a lot is the time I spent at Umlani Bush Camp in the Timbavati Game Reserve. Umlani is a farm owned by close friends of ours who go way back and is a place I’ve been going ever since I was in Grade 3. Marco Schiess (the brother of my school friends, and owner of Umlani) would always take us into the bush and teach us the names of trees and how to identify tracks. However, one of the things we enjoyed much of was the bush braais (barbecues).
We’d go deep into the bush and make a fire. We’d all sit around and listen to the night sounds. Marco would be armed with a gun, and would park the vehicles all around us for extra protection against wild animals.
A gin and tonic is the quintessential way to toast to the day’s sightings of elephant, buffalo, giraffe or lion after a day out on the African savannah.
One night at camp we were all sitting around the fire, laughing mirthfully. The adults were enjoying their gin and tonics and we all braaied and listened to stories and the animal noises echoing all around. Feeling very relaxed in our environment—and without thinking—we decided to go investigate some of those sounds coming from the bushes just beyond our camp in the darkness.
This would end up being a big mistake, because the noises were in fact lions approaching! We all made a mad dash for the car door, falling over each other trying to get in. In the chaos, I ended up being left outside alone, with a mere five metres between me and a lioness. The glow of her eyes pierced
My grandfather is the inspiration for my gin story, as his adventures took him to various corners of the continent
through me and, in what felt like a matter of seconds, I flung myself through the car door window... and then fainted.
Afterward I was the laughingstock of the group of giggling girls, with Marco’s gun still perched against a nearby tree. It was one of those events you just have to look back on and smile.
Some time later, I visited Victoria Falls Hotel in Zimbabwe, which has become one of my most favourite spots to enjoy a gin cocktail. It’s such an incredibly elegant hotel and I have fond memories of teatime, gin and tonics, and watching the falls’ steam and thunder rise.
I was 16 at the time when my parents took 15 matric boys from my brother’s school on a three-week long safari through the Okavango swamps in Botswana. It was a trip we did each year of my childhood and, of course, I was very happy with this particular one, as I was the only girl. I ended up having my first kiss on this holiday, on the steps leading from the Victoria Falls Hotel to the “Spray of the Falls”, in the glow of a full moon. It was every girl’s ‘teenage dream’.
So much so that it became the inspiration for my Musgrave Pink gin. The memories I have of this
time, and of my parents ordering for me a ‘pink gin’ and tonic (the pink gin being Angostura Bitters) on the breezy verandah, the grandness and proximity to the wild bush and the majestic falls, are forever written on my heart.
I’ve always dreamt of going to the Masai Mara, and thanks to my business, I get to go to
many beautiful places. The most memorable trip I’ve taken as an adult must be to Angama Mara, one of the luxury lodges that celebrates the G&T moment.
A flight to Nairobi took me to the famous Giraffe Hotel where high tea was served—a moment to savour a gin and tonic with the resident long-necked beasts watching on.
From there, we flew over to the Masai Mara on a small plane and stepped out at the exquisite Angama Mara. This farm is one of the locations of the movie Out of Africa, featuring that famous scene of heartthrob Robert Redford and Meryl Streep enjoying drinks on a picnic blanket.
Angama Mara has its own garden, providing not only jobs to many locals but also all the lodge’s vegetable and herb needs. We set about the first day of our trip picking herbs with which to garnish our gin cocktails, and then enjoyed lunch in the garden. A game drive with a Masai guide, having all the Big Five come out to greet me, was a dream come true.
As I reminisce about all the places to which I’ve travelled over the course of my life, I realise just how the ritual of gin, safaris and sunsets is in entrenched in my memory.
And for the scatterlings of Africa, The journey has begun. Future find their hungry eyes, Beneath the copper sun... (“Scatterlings of Africa”, Johnny Clegg)
the new HOME HOME away from
How aparthotels are replacing Airbnbs as the smart traveller’s choice
With properties in key city and business hubs, most aparthotels provide guests with an enticing range of entertainment, dining and meeting venues
Aparthotels
There was a time when checking into an Airbnb was one of the best hacks for travellers who wanted value for money. The rates were lower, and the rooms were quirkier. These days, however, smart money is on aparthotels.
Having got out in front of the trend, South Africa's The Capital Hotels and Apartments has used its innovative business model to give its clients suave, reliable and convenient accommodation options at rates that rival many Airbnbs'. The result is that it has become the fastest growing hotel group in the country and, until recently, the only one that was still raising new buildings.
Jurie Bezuidenhout, managing director at The Capital Hotels and Apartments, says: “The travel and accommodation space has changed over the past 15 years, with the number of options mushrooming when Airbnb arrived and then falling flat when the pandemic hit. During that time, we’ve consistently been able to pivot—and give discerning travellers a whole lot more than just a roof over their heads.”
The beauty of reliability
Recently, rumours have swirled that Eskom's loadshedding worst-case scenario could reach as high as level 10. Most Airbnbs are ill-equipped to deal with loadshedding as it currently stands. Many aparthotels, on the other hand, have the resources to run for days without interruptions to their power or water supply—meaning a guest’s stay isn’t interrupted by the stateowned entity’s troubles.
The same applies for Wi-Fi. The quality of a Wi-Fi connection is often dependent on the Airbnb itself. This means that sometimes the line speed can be painfully slow or not work at all. These are problems you’ll rarely face at an
aparthotel. What’s more, because they tend to have higher occupancy rates and can house more people, aparthotels can make themselves ‘loadshedding-proof’ without overburdening the consumer with the cost.
You always know what you're getting
If you've been to enough Airbnbs, then there's a good chance you've fallen victim to 'accommodation catfishing'. This is when you fall in love with the pictures, only to unlock the door and find that
Most Airbnbs are ill-equipped to deal with loadshedding as it currently stands.
your place doesn't match up. Experienced Airbnb users will also be familiar with the annoyance of having to memorise a whole host of complicated check-in and keycollection procedures.
The beauty of aparthotels is that it doesn't matter which one you visit or when: everything is consistently sophisticated. You get exactly what you're looking for—and when you check in, all you have to do is walk up to the receptionist, give them your name and then bask in the convenience of receiving a key and having a porter walk you up to your room.
Safety always comes first
When travelling, safety is paramount. No one wants to run into an incident while on holiday. Unfortunately, the safety of Airbnbs is often dependent on a variety of factors including location, time of day and price point.
Aparthotels are required to take
security seriously. That's why they always have 24-hour security, CCTV surveillance and secure parking. Some will even go as far as having measures in place to ensure guest safety should incidents of civil unrest occur.
Location + Vibe
Have you ever arrived at your Airbnb, finished your day’s work and then realised there was nothing fun to do nearby? Or that it was far from a central location where you could have meetings? Often, securing cheaper rates at an Airbnb may mean having to find one that's further out and less centrally located.
With properties in key city and business hubs, most aparthotels provide their guests with an enticing range of entertainment, dining, meeting venues, and the option of being able to take the party to their room should they need to.
There may have been a time when urbane and discerning travellers could've set their sights on a nice Airbnb property and know they were getting the best deal but, like the fax machine, those days are gone.
As owners' bond payments have gone up, loadshedding has worsened and low occupancy rates have taken their toll, aparthotels have emerged as the new travel go-to for savvy travellers.
THE CAPITAL’S APARTHOTELS AROUND SOUTH AFRICA
JOHANNESBURG
The Capital Empire, Sandton
The Capital On The Park, Sandton
The Capital Melrose
The Capital On Bath, Rosebank
Seven Villa Hotel & Spa, Sandton
The Capital Menlyn Maine
The Capital Trilogy, Menlyn Maine
CAPE TOWN
The Capital 15 on Orange, CBD
The Capital Mirage, De Waterkant
The Capital Pearls, Umhlanga Rocks
The Capital Zimbali, Ballito
The Capital Mbombela
DURBAN
MPUMALANGA
PRETORIA
HEALTHYholidays
A boutique hotel and spa in Johannesburg offers a holistic approach to wellness, nutrition, fitness and aesthetic beauty
The Vivari Aesthetics Institute for Surgical Excellence boasts a modern, accredited hospital
Aunique, groundbreaking wellness hotel concept is welcoming guests from far and wide to its tranquil setting in the leafy area of Featherbrooke (close to the heritage site of the Cradle of Humankind), north of Johannesburg.
Vivari Hotel & Spa by Mantis, which is 100% black- and largely female-owned, offers an integrated approach to wellness which incorporates five elements: holistic health, nutrition, fitness, spa, and aesthetic beauty.
Vivari is a Sanskrit word which, loosely translated, means ‘uncovered’; it’s the first of its kind in Africa, encompassing the hotel and spa along with an aesthetic clinic and state-of-theart hospital focusing on cosmetic surgery, accredited by the country’s Department of Health.
With its setting amid expansive gardens and gigantic pecan nut trees, the hotel has a resort-like feel, offering 48 rooms and three suites spread across the property.
The brainchild of Dr Anushka Reddy, a respected and award-winning female doctor in the specialty of aesthetic medicine, the hotel and its day hospital aim to put South Africa on the map as an international destination of choice for discerning patients who seek privacy for their medical procedures.
“We saw the need for medical tourism to be developed in South Africa, and noticed it was particularly lacking in Johannesburg,” she explains. “We strongly believed we could convince international medical tourists to visit our facility for cosmetic or weight-loss surgery, which would pique interest in the area as well as inject much-needed revenue into our economy through tourism and health.”
The spa provides treatments that prepare guests for surgery, as well as post-surgery treatments to assist with recovery and also prolong the effects of certain procedures.
Craig Erasmus, vice-president of South Saharan Africa for Accor, adds: “Johannesburg is a rich melting pot of culture, intriguing history and incredible landmarks, and the hotel is the perfect base from which to explore the city. In addition, this boutique hotel provides guests with a unique blend of wellness, holistic health and aesthetic beauty.”
In good hands
The hotel’s much-lauded spa— winner of the prestigious international World Spa Awards for two years running—promotes Kneipp therapy which treats the body, mind and soul of an individual. Facilities include a hydrotherapy suite with a steam room, an ice fountain, a heated vitality pool as well as an infrared sauna cabin. Guests also have access to a mineral swimming pool, yoga studio and gym.
The spa provides treatments that prepare guests for surgery, as well as post-surgery treatments to assist with recovery and also prolong the effects of certain procedures.
Those looking to continue relaxing after their treatment can enjoy a lovely lunch at the spa. In addition to the wholesome fare, there’s a range of signature freshly pressed juices and smoothies specially developed to nourish the body with essential nutrients and healing herbs.
Food for the soul
Other dining options include the hotel’s Brambles Restaurant with its farm-to-table ingredients that are organically, ethically and sustainably sourced; and the Pécan Pool Bar that offers an artisanal daytime menu featuring fresh salads, wholesome sandwiches and hand-stretched pizzas.
The Mezzanine Bar has a spectacular setting amid the giant pecan tree canopy, and guests are invited to indulge in one of the hotel’s signature beers.
Let’s meet up
The Vivari Hotel & Spa by Mantis has three modern, wellequipped conference rooms, each accommodating between 120 and 150 people—as well as the Jala Pavilion, a glass-enclosed wedding venue on the banks of the Crocodile River, overlooking the manicured gardens, for bespoke celebrations that will live on in memory.
A new you
But the cherry on top is the Vivari Aesthetics Institute for Surgical Excellence that boasts a modern, accredited hospital equipped with a state-of-the-art operating theatre and five post-surgical day beds. There are both facial and body procedures available, including Vaser for body sculpting and liposuction, and Renuvion for skin tightening.
The facility primarily caters to cosmetic surgery, with a well-known team of plastic surgeons. It also provides conference and streaming facilities with international cosmetic and aesthetic medical practitioners, keeping local practitioners up to date with all the latest trends and technological advancements in the field.
It’s the only facility in South Africa that offers the Weight Doctors Sleeve: a German nonsurgical treatment for obesity that implements endoscopic sleeve gastroplasty.
Hotel guests also have the option to have non-surgical cosmetic procedures such as fillers and Botox with Dr Reddy, who is the founder of Medi-Sculpt—a specialised, minimally invasive cosmetic and
ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW
Vivari Hotel & Spa by Mantis is located at 1 Riviera Lane, Featherbrooke, Johannesburg.
It is 15 minutes from Lanseria Airport, 40 minutes from Sandton and Pretoria, and 45 minutes from OR Tambo International Airport.
Shuttle services are available.
For reservations and more information, visit www.vivarihotel.co.za
anti-ageing clinic on the same property.
Vivari Aesthetics’ overnight packages comprise one, two or three nights’ full board with nurse care cover, inclusive of an hour-long Classic Body Ritual at Vivari Spa.
Well taken care of
To speed up the healing process, the specialised Vivari AfterCare recovery centre provides hyperbaric oxygen therapy, intravenous nutritional therapy with high doses of vitamin C, and crucial lymphatic drainage massage.
Care starts from the moment a guest is picked up from the surgery centre. They are transferred into a vehicle as comfortably and discreetly as possible. Upon their arrival at Vivari AfterCare, they are taken to their room via a private elevator. Nurses will have the guest’s post-operative care kit and instructions ready to continue a smooth transition from the recovery room to the facility. The nurse and nursing assistant will be readily available 24 hours a day during recovery.
both worlds Best of
You’ll arrive as a business traveller but leave as a holidaymaker, thanks to the business facilities and leisure activities at these hotels across the country
Four out of five bleisure travellers spend up to five hours researching what they can do once their business trip is over
Business travellers are adding a leisure component to their trips as a way to have a holiday while working. It also presents a great opportunity for property managers to provide a memorable experience or encourage travellers to join their loyalty programmes, both of which will drive returning customers.
Over the past year, there has been an increase in the combination of business and leisure travel— known as bleisure—among guests visiting South Africa. There are two main types of bleisure travel, according to cvent.com: business trips that are extended on the front or back end of a visit; and business trips taken with friends and family
coming along for the ride.
Hotels are providing top-class business and conferencing facilities, plus in-room work stations and free Wi-Fi so that corporate travellers can do their tasks in comfort, with every requirement taken care of.
But it's not just all work and no play: Guests can take advantage of an array of activities at the hotels themselves as well as attractions in the vicinity. Many business travellers bring their children on the trip, and they need to be kept entertained while mom or dad is working.
Surveys indicate that four out of five bleisure travellers spend up to five hours researching what they can do once their business trip is
over, and hotels are now making it easier for these visitors by showcasing exactly what's on offer and providing leisure packages.
Activities aside, bleisure travellers appreciate suites or one-bedroom accommodations so they can stay on task once their travel companions go to sleep.
Hotels will eagerly oblige, with some offering discounted rates for extended stays or freebies such as an appetiser or glass of wine with dinner.
The majority of bleisure travellers choose to use their downtime for relaxation. Spa treatments are popular, and visiting nearby bars and restaurants is also a top activity.
Here's a selection of worldclass bleisure hotels around South Africa:
Cape Town, Western Cape
THE ONYX HOTEL
newmarkhotels.com
Set in Cape Town’s oldest thoroughfare, this modern establishment is a world of ‘city chic’—on par with glamorous addresses in New York, London and Paris. A contemporary aparthotel, The Onyx offers 106 units with fivestar amenities such as a lounge area and private kitchenette, equipped with modern appliances for your convenience—plus striking views of the city and Table Mountain. If you’re not up to self-catering, you can dine in style at one of the hotel’s top-class restaurants: YU Asian Tapas and MRKT (as well as the Granite Bar). For downtime, there’s a gym and heated pool on the fourth floor as well as a Sanctuary Spa with unique treatments that combine ancient and modern techniques. The Onyx’s upscale conference facilities are ideal for meetings, events, seminars, teambuilding exercises, product launches and the like. And it’s conveniently located within walking distance of the Cape Town International Convention Centre and top attractions of the Mother City.
Durban, KwaZulu-Natal
AHA GATEWAY HOTEL
www.thegatewayhotel.co.za
Located in the lovely seaside town of Umhlanga, within a short drive of King Shaka International Airport, aha Gateway Hotel is conveniently attached to The Gateway Theatre of Shopping for great shopping, dining (also at the hotel’s Fig Tree Café) and family entertainment. It’s an attractive choice for businesspeople who require seamless business services as well as conference and executive meeting facilities. Accommodating up to 430 delegates, these conference venues are fully equipped and also offer airconditioning and complimentary Wi-Fi connectivity—perfect for meetings, seminars, business lunches, teambuilding and breakaway events. And when the work’s done, you can let your hair down in Umhlanga itself or explore further in Durban.
Johannesburg, Gauteng
THE CATALYST HOTEL
newmarkhotels.com
One of Sandton’s (‘Africa’s richest square mile’) premium aparthotels, The Catalyst Hotel is set less than a kilometre from the Gautrain Station in the heart of Johannesburg’s most sought-after business-andleisure district. The hotel strikes the perfect balance between leisure amenities and sophisticated business facilities—offering premium setups for conferences, meetings and executive retreats. A total of 206 lavishly appointed apartment-style rooms come replete with deluxe bathroom finishes and top-class in-room conveniences. After a long day’s work, relax at the Sanctuary Spa, or gym your stress away at the fully equipped training centre. At the hotel’s Kashew Restaurant, you can enjoy fine-dining and sip on sumptuous cocktails on the outdoor deck; or venture out to explore the best that Sandton has to offer.
www.premierhotels.co.za
Just 10km from the airport, this is one of the city’s most desired beachfront hotels offering luxurious room options. Apart from Orient Beach with its children’s activities, other nearby tourist attractions include the aquarium and Mpongo Private Game Reserve. Meetings can be held in the hotel’s two boardrooms, or at the International Convention Centre nearby. The Emerald Spa offers guests luxurious and relaxing services to refresh mind and body, and the Salmon Restaurant boasts views of the Indian Ocean and direct access to the outdoor patio, bar and lounge areas.
Make tracks
Tackle these top quad biking trails around South Africa for a rugged off-road romp
Quad bikes, or all-terrain vehicles (ATVs), are a great mode of transport for doing sightseeing off the beaten track. They can take you further, faster than your feet can, and they can access places that ordinary road vehicles can’t.
Unlike motorbikes, they’re easy to ride, you don’t have to learn to balance—and once you’ve mastered the fairly simply basics of steering and stopping, you’re ready to go. And they’re super fun!
If you’re interested in touring in a different and exciting way, these quad biking adventures may be just the thing for you...
CLARENS XTREME
clarensxtreme.co.za
Situated near Golden Gate Highlands National Park in the Free State, the Clarens Xtreme quad biking trails offer stunning views over the town of Clarens and the magical Maluti Mountains. Depending on your energy levels, you can choose between beginner, one-hour or two-hour outrides hosted by experienced guides— negotiating a variety of obstacles that are challenging for both man and machine, thus making it more exciting and rewarding than imagined. Halfway through the ride, you’ll pause for drinks and your guide will share some historical information about the town. You also have the option of riding as a passenger on someone else’s bike if you don’t feel up for too much of a challenge.
ALL OUT ADVENTURES
www.alloutadventures.co.za
Based in the northern Drakensberg, KwaZulu-Natal, All Out Adventures offers 15km trails over varied terrain. You’ll traverse Montusi Gorge, Rocky Pass and the Waterfall Challenge. Don’t be nervous, though, as there’s a test track where everyone gets some training before they depart for their ride. The experience includes a lesson on riding safely off-road, followed by an outride on purposebuilt mountain trails with bermed corners in the passes. The whole experience lasts 1 to 1.5 hours, depending on the group. The activities are all visible from the lawn in front of the on-site coffee shop, so the less adventurous members of the party can kick back with a giant cappuccino and still feel like part of the action.
INDUNA ADVENTURES
indunaadventures.com
One of the biggest quad bike tour operators in the country, Hazyview’s Induna Adventures offers one- and two-hour rides along hand-cut trails through indigenous bush and blue gum plantations, and past spectacular waterfall lookout points—and occasionally through mud and puddles, depending on rainfall.
Located in Mpumalanga, it’s only a 20-minute drive from the Kruger National Park. Trails are led by professional guides. Children can join the trip as passengers, or motor safely along the special Kiddie Quad Track.
KAGGA KAMMA NATURE RESERVE
www.kaggakamma.co.za
Kagga Kamma is situated in the Swartruggens region of the Cederberg mountains in the Western Cape, and its quad biking trails offer the chance to cover rugged terrain that would otherwise be inaccessible—allowing you a unique nature and game-viewing experience inside the reserve. Oneto two-hour tours are arranged on request. Regrettably, no children under the age of 16 are allowed.
MELK
“BOS” 4X4 melkbos4x4.co.za
Situated on Ogieskraal Farm just outside Melkbosstrand—about 25km from Cape Town in the Western Cape—Melk “Bos” 4x4 lives up to its name (bos is an Afrikaans slang word for ‘mad’). Here you can hire quad bikes and tackle several 4x4 tracks, or go for a ride on nearby dunes. Goggles and helmets are supplied, and trail guides and instructors are there to assist you. There are also camping and barbecue facilities, children’s jumping castles, a pub and restaurant, archery section and much more. You can even book birthday parties, corporate events and year-end functions.
SA FOREST ADVENTURES www.saforestadventures.co.za
SA Forest Adventures in the Western Cape offers trails in Grabouw (50 minutes from Cape Town) and Hermanus (1.5 hours from Cape Town), which have been identified as two of the top 10 quad trails in South Africa. The tours in Grabouw will take you through the Hottentots Holland Nature Reserve, into fynbos and mountains, and to a waterfall.
In Hermanus, you’ll ride through vineyards and the Fernkloof Nature Reserve. Experience amazing mountain vistas and pause at a vantage point for views over the seaside town of Hermanus. These quad biking tours are ideal for beginners—with extra time to explore the special floriculture and mountain scenery. There’s a third tour in Caledon, which is smaller and more intimate, passing through oak forests and farmland.
SEGWATI GETAWAYS
segwatigetaways.co.za
Segwati offers a unique gameviewing experience only a 40-minute drive from both Johannesburg and Pretoria in Gauteng. Rated as one of the best safari quad bike trails in the country, it offers a unique experience filled with adventure and unforgettable wildlife. These trails (of one, 1.5 and two hours in duration) traverse some wild and rugged Witwatersberg mountain terrain with views over both the Cradle of Humankind World Heritage Site and the Magaliesberg Mountains. Beginners are welcome: Experienced, friendly and safetyconscious guides will assist in getting yourself familiarised with the quads.
SOWETO OUTDOOR ADVENTURES
www.sowetooutdooradventures. co.za
Soweto Outdoor Adventures will take you on a quad biking trail through the dusty back roads of the wellknown township in Gauteng, along the famous Vilakazi Street (where both Desmond Tutu and Nelson Mandela lived) and past the iconic Orlando Towers. There are a variety of packages to suit all energy levels, time constraints and skill levels.
DOWNHILL ADVENTURES
www.downhilladventures.com
Tackle Downhill Adventures’ 4x4 tracks on a quad bike near Melkbosstrand, where the trails twist and wind through sand and bush, offering climbs, descents, technical sections and flat-out straights. Or go for a ride through the Atlantis Dunes Nature Reserve for a unique and scenic off-road, soft-sand riding experience.
Downhill Adventures also offers a sandboarding and quad biking combo package. Being a full-day activity, you get the benefit of free transport from Cape Town, a professional sandboarding lesson and a healthy picnic lunch.
HOT stuff
Ishay GovenderYpma dishes up the best of Durban’s Indian cuisine
Durban Indian cuisine has its roots in the arrival of the South Indian indentured labourers to the port of Natal
Durban
These are the fieriest curries in the land! But Durban Indian food isn’t confined to just curry. Here you’ll find a unique mix of South and North Indian dishes like breyani and pilau, and cooking styles that have melded over time and include unique indigenous ingredients.
Durban Indian cuisine has its roots in the arrival of the South Indian indentured labourers to the port of Natal, transported on 45-day steamship journeys between 1860 and 1911. They came to the east coast of South Africa for predominantly manual labour—to work on the British-run sugar cane plantations, and in the railways, fishing and boating industries. From the agricultural classes, and of lower castes generally, they were requested to work on five-year contracts in what was promised to be fair working conditions, with adequate housing, medical care and clothing.
The 152 184 labourers who arrived in total have, over time, shaped the cuisine and cultural heritage of Durban and South
Africa.
According to a legal notice from 1874, the labourers were to receive rations of dholl (‘dhal’, yellow spilt peas), dried fish, oil and rice. Not all promises were kept, however, and the newcomers found themselves in dire conditions that many historians compare to slavery.
Like they did with their new, unfamiliar surroundings, they adapted to the circumstances—and food—over time. When rice was scarce, dried maize was crushed to create mealie rice. Cheap vegetable oil replaced ghee, coconut and mustard oils. Coconuts, unlike they were in Tamil Nadu where they are used in cookery with abundance, were reserved for prayers. Maize meal was fermented to make sour porridge, as it had been done at one stage in South India with rice. Labourers would consume this at breakfast for energy, which then went out of favour with the arrival of coffee in then-Madras.
Local ingredients used by Zulu neighbours, like ‘running’ or freerange, mature chickens; madumbi (a local yam); and amasi (fermented
Fresh, aromatic curry leaves are what separate Durban Indian cookery from that of the Cape Malay curries
milk, with a gloopy, yoghurt texture) appeared in the cookery—and remain today. So, too, do green mangoes and bananas, sheep head and trotters, and an abundance of fish.
Several cooks featured in my research-based cookbook Curry: Stories & Recipes across South Africa speak fondly of mielie rice and tinned pilchard curries—cheap meals that sustained large families.
While the indentured Indians would have brought spices, seeds and plant cuttings during their voyages on the ships, the merchant or passenger class of Gujaratis who arrived of their own accord later supplied the workers with spices, vegetables and conveniences from home. The humid surrounds and fertile soil allowed for many of the beans, gourds, herbs, chillies and curry leaf plants, to which they were accustomed, to thrive there as well.
Because the Gujarati traders travelled back home regularly, their cuisine remained fairly intact, while the food of the labourers transformed over time: what anthropologist Sheetal Bhoola calls, in an email interview we had, “continually evolving and adapting”. She adds that Durban Indian food is “a hybrid of varying cooking techniques from more than one
region of India, which combined with local available ingredients and localised versions of spices.”
What makes a good Durban curry, I ask Mr Manilal Patel? At 76, he’s the last in line at Patel’s Vegetarian Refreshment Room in Yusuf Dadoo (formerly Grey) Street, opened by his father in 1932. A takeaway joint known for its affordable curries and the widely publicised bunny chow (hollowed-out quarter loaves of white bread filled with curry), it feeds customers from as early as 6.30 a.m.
Turns out, the secret is in the
oil (Durban curries are known for the glossy oil slick at the top), fresh masala and how you cook your onions and garlic. Some say it’s the red colour and the use of soft-cooking ‘gravy soaker’ potatoes. The potatoes make an appearance in breyani, too—unheard of in India and elsewhere. I polled the Grey Street Casbah Facebook group, 220 480-strong, dedicated to food memories of this area once known as the Indian Quarter, with its fast-disappearing Indian-run cafés, takeaways, clothing and repair stores—and most of the 77
when even the sighing of the wind ceases, Giant’s Castle provides a feast of beau�ful mountain scenery, sparkling clear streams, solitude and comfortable accommoda�on ...
Offering vast silence
Giant’s Castle is situated in the central part of the Maloti-Drakensberg Park World Heritage Site, about a six-hour drive from Johannesburg via the N3 and about three hours from Durban. Giant’s Castle, dubbed “the Flower of the Drakensberg” due to its impressively rich floral diversity, rolling grasslands, crags and cliffs, lies in the “Little ‘Berg”, with Giant’s Castle Resort overlooking the Bushman’s River. It offers much for the outdoor enthusiast as well as those searching for the tranquillity of natural surroundings.
Activities: vulture hide, historical sites, rock art sites, mountaineering, hiking/walking trails, game viewing, trout fishing, ice climbing, mountain huts, picnicking, mountain biking, seasonal rock fountain and champagne pool.
DINING DIVERSIONS •
comments echoed the same. As to who made the first bunny chow, the verdict is still out, though many credit the old Kapitans.
Regional radio producer and news editor Salma Patel, who comes from a line of great cooks, says that fresh, aromatic curry leaves are what separate Durban Indian cookery from that of the Cape Malay curries on the west coast.
Today, Durban’s 800 000 Indians, descendants of the indentured labourers, comprise the highest concentration of Indians outside India in a single city. The combination of the unique history tied to indenture, as well as the succession of repressive regimes
that followed over the course of history, ensured Durban Indian cuisine developed in virtual isolation. It transformed into this red-hot, hearty, generous style of food meant to nurture many with easily accessible, inexpensive ingredients.
Ishay Govender-Ypma is an ex-lawyer, freelance journalist, cookbook and guidebook author. Her work appears in local and international publications such as National Geographic, Saveur, The National UAE, Food & Wine and Literary Hub.
Article from South African Tourism (www.southafrica.net)
FOR THE BEST DURBAN INDIAN FOOD, THESE ARE MY PICKS:
Hollywood Bets and Bunny Bar for fantastic bunny chow 126 Intersite Avenue, Umgeni Business Park, Springfield
Try a variety of Durban curries, snacks and breyani at Canecutters 53 Helen Joseph Road (Davenport Road), Glenwood
For a posh sit-down meal, try the curry buffet at The Oyster Box Hotel in Umhlanga 2 Lighthouse Road, Umhlanga
For outstanding Durban prawn, crab and mutton curry, go to Impulse by the Sea 67 Seaview Drive, Tinley
TR E A S UR E D
Nature’snectar
On a rooibos tour, you can gain more insight into South Africa’s favourite beverage that’s now delighting palates all over the world
Few industries have been hit as hard by the pandemic as the travel and tourism sector, but fortuitously, it has given a fillip to tea tourism worldwide.
Adele du Toit, spokesperson for the South African Rooibos Council, says the pandemic turned everyone’s focus to healthier living, which has fuelled a resurgence in tea consumption and exploring the unique regions where tea or tisanes are produced.
“Globally, this trend has led to once dilapidated tea planters’ bungalows and houses being restored and turned into boutique hotels and lodges. Here, tea lovers can enjoy a tranquil stay, away from the city, surrounded by nature—while learning more about their favourite brew.”
Most of these tea estates are more than 100 years old, so staying there and learning about their history, tea culture and heritage is a unique experience in and of itself. Says Du Toit, “When you go on a tea tour, a whole new world starts to unfold. It takes you inside a century-old community that has been farming and processing tea for generations.”
From an economic perspective, tea tourism has a great outlook. The market has huge potential, and it’s sustainable and green.
Travellers are starting to swop sun-and-sand vacations with new, niche travel experiences that interest them. And beverage tourism encompasses tea, coffee, wine, whiskey/whisky and beer tourism.
Annually, tourism contributes about R130 billion (3%) to South Africa’s gross domestic product and provides work for 4.5% of the population. Tourist numbers plummeted by 72.6% from 10.2 million in 2019 to 2.8 million in 2020.
Du Toit believes the combination of rooibos farming with tourism can become a new engine of growth for the local economy which, in
turn, could help create jobs and alleviate poverty.
The registration of rooibos (Aspalathus linearis) as a Protected Designation of Origin in the European Union in 2021 has created more awareness among the large tea-drinking nations in Europe of the origins of rooibos and that it’s unique to and only grows in the Cederberg region of the Western Cape. Word of its health benefits has also increased the demand for the herbal tisane.
Sanet Stander, co-founder of the Rooibos Route (established several years ago to promote tourism in Clanwilliam, the heartland of rooibos), says they have seen an uptick in international travel to the area and visitors are booking more rooibos tours.
“We’ve hosted tourists from all over the world, but there’s been an influx of German and Swiss tourists of late; and as locals searched for secluded spots during the pandemic, Clanwilliam has become a favourite among South Africans, too. Gone are the days when guests would be happy with just sightseeing and a comfortable stay. The new crop of tourists loves being part of adventurous, unexplored activities—
When you go on a tea tour, it takes you inside a centuryold community that has been farming and processing tea for generations.
and tea tourism ticks all these boxes.”
Stander says the concept of a Rooibos Route took hold after being inundated by questions from tourists about rooibos at the local Rooibos Teahouse, a boutique restaurant where tourists can sample more than 100 varieties of this tea. “We realised that a route could add significant value to the tourists’ experience, and it has. Since 2014, we’ve hosted many local and overseas tourists, and are looking forward to welcoming more to our beautiful region.”
Rooibos tea tours
SKIMMELBERG FARM
skimmelberg.co.za
Skimmelberg locally produces organic rooibos and buchu (Agathosma betulina) tea products, which it exports to many countries around the globe. It’s a familyrun company rooted in the local community, with extensive experience gained over generations.
They firmly believe in biodiversity-friendly farming methods and are actively promoting sustainable best practices—working in harmony with nature by making use of its resources. An example of such practices is the use of organic liquid fertiliser known as compost tea, made on the farms in the process of vermicomposting; another is the use of carbon-neutral fuel in the company’s essential oil distillation plant.
Skimmelberg’s farming operations take place on the doorstep of the Skimmelberg Nature Reserve. To see the real magic behind what makes its completely organic product range so special, you have to visit the farm. You’ll get to
see the rooibos and buchu plants as they occur naturally in the wild, as well as how they are being farmed organically and sustainably. You’ll also be able to see how Skimmelberg produces its trademark red and green rooibos teas: a process that starts in its special rooibos seedling beds as well as the nursery for the buchu seedlings.
One of the key features in Skimmelberg’s organic success is the farm’s wormery, which you can also visit. Providing organic fertiliser for the cultivated buchu and rooibos plants is essential, and Skimmelberg has mastered using worm tea to give the plants the boost they need.
Once the tour has ended, you can join the Skimmelberg team at the office for a tea tasting. Enjoy exploring the smells, tastes and sensations of the teas. Then browse the Skimmelberg shop, stocked with the farm’s full range of products; go birdwatching to spot the resident black eagles; or take in the beauty of the sprawling wildflowers (September and October).
CEDERBERG RIDGE WILDERNESS LODGE
cederbergridge.co.za
Simbavati Cederberg Ridge is a luxurious wilderness lodge that overlooks the panorama of the Cederberg Mountains. You can enjoy the natural beauty and hidden gems of the area through a range of experiences including a fascinating excursion to one of the local rooibos farms. You’ll see how the farmers grow and then process the tea, and afterward you can enjoy a tea tasting. The modern farmhouse-styled Cederberg Ridge is the perfect accommodation for those who wish to explore the rooibos country of Clanwilliam. In town, you can visit the House of Rooibos for a video presentation and the opportunity to purchase various rooibos products. And check out the very informative display of the rooibos industry at the Clanwilliam Museum.
Rooibos tea tastings
ROOIBOS LTD'S HOUSE OF ROOIBOS houseofrooibos.info
Rooibos Ltd has been the preferred supplier of rooibos to the world since 1954. Now, at its House of Rooibos @ Rooibos Country Club, you can expect more than just a cup of warm and delicious rooibos tea. House of Rooibos features a shop, tea room, an informal tea tasting area and an information centre. Watch the 10-minute audiovisual presentation (in eight languages) about the history, production process and health benefits of this singular beverage, after which you can savour the teas and rooibos-inspired eats. Before you leave, browse the shop to stock up on tea, food items, cosmetic products, souvenirs and gift items.
Situated right at the entrance to Clanwilliam, Velskoendraai offers a unique rooibos tea tasting experience. Within the “7 Clans of Rooibos”, there are more than 100 flavoured/ blended rooibos teas: from natural, herbal, fruity and sweet to green, spicy and flowery—a variety you can’t afford to pass by. At Velskoendraai, you can do a tasting or order any of these teas at the restaurant. There are also lovely baked goods (rusks and cookies), homemade jams and preserves, and rooibos products to discover at the farmers market—all made by the local community.
CARMIÉN TEA
carmientea.co.za
Carmién Tea's story started in 1998 in an old farm shop on the historic Brakfontein Estate near the town of Citrusdal. It now produces high-quality rooibos teas and specialty products, and manufactures teaware, accessories and gifts. A rooibos tea, food & wine pairing is a particularly unique tasting experience; rooibos tea acts as a natural palate cleanser and is also naturally sweet, as opposed to astringent black teas. At Carmién's tea shop at De Tol Farm Deli in Citrusdal, you can try the special tea and nibble pairing—and a unique kiddies’ tea pairing so that the little ones don't feel left out. There are two gin & nougat pairings with Carmién's own rooibos distilled gins (Citrus Chai and Floral
In these pressured, fast-paced times, you just need to get away from it all—to kick back and relax; go somewhere you can evade the stresses of the rat race for a while. And, boy, after the start to the year that I’ve had, I urgently needed to do so. Fortunately, my job as editor of a travel magazine affords plenty opportunities for weekend breaks and staycations at marvellous establishments where I can bask in 5-star luxury to recharge my batteries.
And Grande Roche in the historic area of Paarl did not disappoint. Sited at the foot of Paarl Rock, the town’s well-known beacon of granite that gave rise to its name—the igneous rock was said to shimmer like a pearl (paarl) in the sunlight— the luxury country hotel is just over 40 minutes’ drive from Cape Town: far enough from the bustle, yet near enough for a quick escape, and the ideal launching pad to explore the Cape Winelands.
Last year marked the hotel’s 30th anniversary—pearl, coincidentally. And I looked forward to experiencing what this gem has to offer.
My travel companion Hayley and I set out mid-morning on a leisurely drive to Paarl, with a stop
HIDDEN pearl
If it’s luxury, tranquility and comfort you’re after, look no further than Grande Roche Hotel and Restaurant
By Ashley van Schalkwyk
The luxury country hotel is just over 40 minutes’ drive from Cape Town: far enough from the bustle, yet near enough for a quick escape
for lunch at the nearby Spice Route Destination before our check-in time at 3 p.m. The majestic trees lining the drive leading into Grande Roche seemed to whisper the estate’s signature welcome: luxury, tranquility and comfort await...
As we were shown to our rooms, I couldn’t help but marvel at the imposing edifice of Paarl Rock; it really does make for a stunning backdrop. In keeping with the historic surroundings and retaining the origins of the estate, the hotel’s accommodation is a journey back in time. The 18 Terrace Suites (two of
which served as our rooms for the weekend) have been built in the original Cape Dutch colonial style, with thatched roofs, shutters and vines that cling to the walls of the private outdoor terrace. Other options include the five duplex Heritage Suites, transformed from the old workers’ quarters on the estate; the six Legacy Rooms that are situated in the charmingly restored coach and carriage houses; and the Garden Suite, which was originally the farm stable.
gardens with their red, pink and white rose bushes are a delight. We crossed a quaint wooden bridge and discovered the Kraal Pool. A picture-perfect spot, it too is watched over by the sentinel of Paarl Rock; with its shading umbrellas and palm trees and marble-like statue, you’d think the scene were straight out of the Mediterranean.
Stepping inside my suite, I was greeted by a well-appointed sitting room with an enclosed bar fridge, television and coffee/tea station that included some of the best cookies I’ve tasted in a while. The luxurious bathroom is wellequipped with both a bath and shower. Outside the bedroom window is a kaleidoscope of roses and vines—imagine waking to that view on a sunny morning...
After settling in, Hayley and I donned our walking shoes for a bit of exploring. Taking the path past the Heritage Suites, we took in the sights and sounds of the estate, which is a working wine farm. The manicured
Too tempted by its sparkling blue water—and goaded by the heat of the day—we quickly returned to our suites to change into swimwear. After a cool, invigorating dip, you can enjoy an equally refreshing libation from the poolside bar or a spa treatment in the designated area (spa bookings must be made in advance, though). There’s a second swimming location on the property, the Restaurant Courtyard Pool, next to the Manor House.
It’s at the Manor House where you’ll also find the Grande Roche Restaurant, headed up by chef Kevin Grobler who has honed his skills at top culinary establishments such as the Michelin-starred Restaurant JAN in Nice, France. This pedigree was
evident in our dinner experience, the newly launched Grande Roche Sharing Plates. From an array of 15 dishes, you may select either three courses (R550 per person) or four (R650 per person).
chocolate mousse would’ve been just as good, but I have a deep-seated love of crème brûlée—and being presented as a doughnut, there was only ever going to be one winner.
EAT, STAY, LOVE
GRANDE ROCHE PEARL OF PAARL PACKAGE #1
• One night’s accommodation in a Terrace Suite for two guests sharing (full English breakfast included)
• Sunset canapés and signature cocktail of the day
• A 4-course sharing plate dinner experience at The Grande Roche Restaurant
Hayley and I were seated out on the veranda, a lovely al fresco option where we could savour the vineyard views, the balmy evening air, and the food... Oh, the food! We started with the pork potstickers and the whitefish sashimi—every bit as tasty as it looked. This was followed by servings of miso-and-lime trout and grilled sirloin with chimichurri. I’m not going to list the additional ingredients because you really need to come experience these dishes for yourself.
Whether it was the enveloping silence, the comfy bed, my well-sated stomach or just a deep tiredness, I overslept the following morning. I also blame the blackout curtains that effectively shut out the world.
Breakfast was a simple yet sumptuous affair, with the menu comprising a mini continental and three hot options (it changes regularly).
As day quickly turned to night, we eagerly awaited the last two courses (opting for four courses had been a great decision). Hayley selected the Cape Malay mussels with garlic bread, while I chose the grilled chicken breast with butternut atchar. We both capped off our dinner with the crème brûlée doughnut. I’m sure the bread and butter pudding and the white
Hayley and I both chose The Scramble: toasted mieliebread, onions, corn, tomato cream cheese and, of course, scrambled eggs.
Having finished this most important meal of the day, reality hit that our stay had come to an end. We ambled through the gardens once more before taking leave of our haven of relaxation with heavy hearts, turning our sights to the ‘real’ world beyond the gates. Until the next getaway...
The editorial team thanks the Grande Roche Hotel for its warm hospitality. For more information and to book your stay, visit granderoche.com.
• A bottle of selected Under Oaks estate wine to be enjoyed with dinner
• Priced at R5 450, based on two persons sharing
GRANDE ROCHE PEARL OF PAARL PACKAGE #2
• One night’s accommodation in a Terrace Suite for two guests sharing (full English breakfast included)
• Sunset canapés and signature cocktail of the day
• A 4-course sharing plate dinner experience at The Grande Roche Restaurant
• A bottle of selected Under Oaks estate wine to be enjoyed with dinner
• A 60-minute couple’s massage
• Priced at R6 950, based on two persons sharing
While the travel industry is a beautiful thing, enlightening people from around the globe to different cultures and experiences, there are some dark corners of the world where one’s travel dreams are a nightmare for some exploited for the industry.
Crafted Africa, one of Malawi’s leading tour operators, is lucky to be part of an incredible industry community in southern Africa, where all its partners are conscious about impacting their surroundings: They operate ethically and go out of their way to support the rural communities and conservation projects surrounding them—and Crafted Africa ensures it makes a conscious choice of whom it works with, and does its part.
C onscious
choices
Crafted Africa shares how it upholds responsible tourism, valuing sustainability and focusing on community engagement and conservation
Sustainable lodges
Before Crafted Africa sells any lodge or activity, it ensures these operate sustainably: being eco-conscious and focusing on minimising their environmental impact in any way they can. Such as the Lake Malawi National Park establishments of Blue Zebra Island Lodge (bluezebra. mw), which runs on solar power, and Mumbo Island Lodge (mumboisland. com), which runs completely off the grid with solar power, bucket showers and dry compost eco-loos.
All the lodges used by Crafted Africa source as much local food as possible, cutting down on imported foods and the carbon footprint associated with these, and even grow their own fruit and vegetables on site.
Green Safaris (greensafaris. com) is also a great example of a sustainable company whereby all the lodges are solar-run. Two of its camps—Shawa Luangwa Camp in South Luangwa National Park, and Ila Safari Lodge in Kafue National Park—both conduct game drives on solar-powered e-cruisers; Ila even has a solar-powered e-boat!
Zomba Forest Lodge (www. zombaforestlodge.com), which is also off the grid, puts much time and effort into its TREEZ reforestation project to protect the Zomba Forest from deforestation, and continuously plants and protects hundreds of trees per year to mitigate tree loss—involving and educating the community as it does so. You can donate to the TREEZ project at www.justgiving.com/ zomba-treez.
Crafted Africa is really proud and excited to announce that its office, home, shop and guesthouse will soon all be entirely solar-powered as well.
Community focused
All lodges with which Crafted Africa works in Malawi, Zambia and Mozambique employ people from the surrounding communities, training them in the art of hospitality and helping them support their families. The lodges also make a monetary contribution per bed night sold to a combined community fund that goes toward local community support organisations like Project Luangwa, which fund schools, medical clinics, gender support, sponsorship and vocational training. (Donate to Project Luangwa at www. projectluangwa.org/donate.)
A couple of the Zambian companies with which Crafted Africa works, which put a big focus on community support, are Flatdogs Camp (www.flatdogscamp.com) and Kafunta Safaris (kafuntasafaris. com), which has three lodges in South Luangwa: Kafunta River Lodge, Three Rivers Camp and Island Bush Camp.
Conservation focused
In the national parks, the fees paid per person each day goes straight back into the parks to fund the management costs that keep them running the way they should.
The lodges in and around the national parks contribute to a conservation fund that supports surrounding projects such as research programmes, wildlife veterinary clinics, a dog detection unit, ranger patrols and snare recovery. Sungani (sungani.com) and its Kulandila Camp donated $25 000 during 2022 to Conservation South Luangwa toward their anti-
poaching work to support ground patrols, aerial surveillance and wildlife rescue in the area. You can also do your part by donating at cslzambia.org/get-involved. These organisations recognise the importance of community education when it comes to preserving these wild spaces and the wildlife within and around them. They have initiated environmental awareness training programmes in schools and villages to help combat the issue of human-wildlife conflict, deforestation and pollution. One such project is Children in the Wilderness, a project set up by Wilderness Safaris across numerous African countries, for example in Liwonde National Park, run by the owners of Mvuu Lodge. If you wish to make a difference, visit bit.ly/3egLsw4
You can also be assured that Crafted Africa will never book any activities that exploit wildlife, such as elephant rides, lion walks or petting, or other direct wildlife interactions that promote the captivity of wild animals for monetary gain; nor will it book any lodges associated with these activities.
Shop
responsibly
Crafted Africa loves to support local, and that includes supporting local craftspeople and shops using sustainable materials and which employ and empower people in the area. These items create the perfect souvenirs for travellers, so Craft Africa always ensures its guests have the opportunity to visit these amazing initiatives during their trip.
A few favourite local shops are:
KATUNDU
Based on the island of Likoma on Lake Malawi, Katundu (bit.ly/3Ciq7dP) was founded in 2006 with the objective of empowering women through artisanal training and ethical employment. Using recycled and natural materials, its workshop has an extremely creative and diverse product range. Its signature range of hand-beaded textiles are complemented by statement chandeliers made of recycled glass, clay mud beads and scrap metal, plus interior pieces: wall art; rugs/baskets made from baobab and maize string; and picture frames and furniture made from old, disused fishing boats. Kaya Mawa Lodge (greensafaris. com/kaya-mawa) is the home of Katundu, and each stay will include a visit to this incredible workshop.
MULBERRY MONGOOSE
Based in Mfuwe just outside South Luangwa National Park, Mulberry Mongoose (mulberrymongoose.com) creates beauty from brutality. Using poachers’ snare wire that has been recovered from the national park, the local Zambian craftswomen who make up the workshop in South Luangwa create African bush-inspired jewellery. A portion of each jewellery sale goes back into the well-being of the park and its wildlife by way of donation to local conservation projects and anti- snare patrols. Crafted Africa has partnered with Mulberry Mongoose and sells its jewellery in the wine & gift shop at Craft Africa’s head office in Lilongwe. So if you aren’t making your way to Zambia this time, stop by and pick up a stunning statement piece that all your friends and family will admire.
TRIBAL TEXTILES
Also based in Mfuwe, Tribal Textiles (www.tribaltextiles.co.zm) works with locally sourced raw materials, hand-painted and tailored to create stylish home interior products such as napkins, table cloths and cushion covers, bed spreads, wall hangings, bags and accessories. These are all made right there at the shop and guests can go and see the team at work making these stunning African textiles. It also reinvests 5% of each purchase into local community and conservation initiatives. If you stay at the Crafted Africa Guesthouse in Lilongwe, you’ll notice the rooms are decorated with these beautiful products from TribalTextiles.
Make a conscious choice when you book your holiday and choose agents and lodges that make responsible tourism a priority.
In the shadow of Moun t
Kilimanjaro
Angama Amboseli is a new intimate lodge situated in the private Kimana Sanctuary, surrounded by the wide open plains of the Masai Mara
Set within a fever tree forest where some of Africa’s last ‘super tuskers’ roam, Angama Amboseli will be a gentle start or finish to any East African safari, and a lovely contrast to the wide open plains of the Masai Mara,” says Steve Mitchell.
Mitchell is the CEO and co-founder of Angama (Swahili for ‘suspended in mid-air’), a luxury safari lodge operator that offers high-touch experiences in one-ofa-kind locations across East Africa. Innkeepers at heart, the team finds joy in looking after guests and reconnecting them with the natural world.
Angama’s flagship property, Angama Mara, sits 1 000 feet above the Masai Mara, where guests are spoilt for choice while exploring the renowned park’s abundant wildlife and enjoying an array of experiences at the lodge. Angama Safari Camp, an exclusive-use tented camp in the heart of the Mara Triangle, has its own dedicated staff and all the comforts of 21st century camping.
And in the shadow of Mount Kilimanjaro lies the newest addition: Angama Amboseli, an intimate lodge set in the private 5 700-acre Kimana Sanctuary, which will be opening its gates in November this year.
Kimana Sanctuary—leased from the local community—is the central part of a crucial corridor that links Amboseli National Park with the Chyulu Hills and Tsavo protected areas. Among many other animal species, the area hosts majestic family herds of elephant as they undertake their seasonal journeys. A highlight are the super tuskers: elephant bulls with a genetic predisposition for tusks weighing as much as 45 kilogrammes each—
EAST AFRICAN TRAVEL • Kenya
often so long that these drag along the ground as the elephants walk.
Mitchell explains how Angama and Angama Mara came to be: “The land was initially in the ownership of an American hunter who had a lease on it—and because hunting is illegal in Kenya, he relinquished the property, which was then acquired by Steve Fitzgerald on a lease. This was about nine-and-a-half years ago.
“We felt that the Mara was a highend game reserve and we had a golden opportunity to build an iconic property that would take advantage of the views of the rift and the escarpment, and in the long run help to raise the profile of the Mara triangle in particular,” he adds.
Now, in another effort to reconnect its guests with nature, the brand has launched Angama Amboseli. The lodge is already fully booked for its opening month.
Says Mitchell, “At Angama Amboseli, guests can expect Angama’s signature blend of warm and gracious Kenyan service,
well-considered guest experiences, contemporary African design with delightful touches throughout— and just enough spontaneity and humour to ensure no one forgets to have fun!”
Designed by the same team behind Angama Safari Camp (architecture by Jan Allan, with creative direction and interiors by Annemarie Meintjes and Alison Mitchell), the lodge’s concept offers a fresh take on the Amboseli ecosystem. “Sturdy and bold, elegant yet
humble, the design takes inspiration from Kilimanjaro as well as the elephants, featuring a combination of materials and colours that reflect the surroundings: from the verdant greens of the fever tree forest to the red ochre of the earth,” notes Meintjes.
The tented suite—including two sets of inter-leading family units welcoming children of all ages— features a super king, extra-length bed; a personalised drinks armoire; and a dressing area connecting to
a bathroom that includes a double vanity and double shower.
To maximise the views of “Kili”, each suite has floor-to-ceiling screened doors leading to a private deck with a shaded lounge area, an outdoor shower and, of course, Angama’s signature rocking chairs, perfect for mountain gazing.
“The challenge has been to design appropriately for this ecosystem and this guest experience, and to find the right amount of what our guests really want,” adds Mitchell.
The guest area will feature indooroutdoor dining with an expansive baraza and a sundowner fire pit where guests can watch the light
change on Africa’s tallest mountain throughout the day.
The Studios will house a safari shop, a fun games room for the whole family, a gallery and makers’ studio for Kenyan artisans, along with a photography studio to assist guests with everything from hiring cameras and editing pictures to photoshoots.
The focal point, however, is sure to be the raised rim-flow swimming pool, fringed by fever trees and fronted by a drinking trough for the elephants—and Kilimanjaro’s snowcapped peak in the distance.
With exclusive traversing rights and unrestricted game viewing, the
HOW TO GET THERE:
Easily accessible, there are scheduled daily flights from Wilson Airport to the Kimana Sanctuary’s private airfield or nearby airstrips, operated by Safarilink. Private charters are also welcome, for direct connectivity to and from the Masai Mara. By car, it’s an easy three-and-a-half-hours’ drive on a paved road, straight from Nairobi to the gate.
best time to view the mountain is in the early hours of the morning on a ‘pyjama safari’. The Kimana Sanctuary is home to eland, buffalo, reedbuck, giraffe, zebra, warthogs in their hundreds, along with leopard, cheetah, serval and many birds of prey—offering remarkable density of wildlife for the ecosystem.
Guests may also choose to visit Amboseli National Park, a short 45-minute drive from the lodge.
To create opportunities and make a tangible difference to the communities and ecosystems in which it operates, Angama leases from landowners, hires locally and supports education, healthcare and conservation projects through its foundation.
Those interested in a behindthe-scenes look at some of this conservation work can join Big Life Foundation (BigLife.org) for half- or full-day experiences. Activities include ranger patrol demonstrations, visits to schools, camera trap monitoring, or learning about the importance of generating economic benefits for communities from protecting ancient wildlife corridors and reducing human–wildlife conflict.
For more information and to book your stay, visit angama.com
C ome hear that thunders the smoke
The newly opened Radisson Blu Mosi-oa-Tunya, Livingstone Resort is just minutes away from the magnificent Victoria Falls, and is being operated with the greatest respect to this special habitat
The resort features 200 rooms, luxurious suites and villas, many with unparalleled views of the Zambezi
Zambia • SOUTHERN AFRICAN TRAVEL
The Radisson Blu Mosi-oaTunya, Livingstone Resort in Zambia has opened its doors to the world. Nestled on the banks of the Zambezi River, it's the Radisson Hotel Group’s first safari resort in Africa and first resort in this country.
General manager of the resort, Shaun Wheeler, comments: “This magnificent property allows us to offer visitors memorable moments and exciting experiences such as discovering one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World and a celebrated Unesco World Heritage Site (Victoria Falls), which is a short
distance from the hotel.”
The Victoria Falls lie within the Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park, which is two kilometres south of the historic city of Livingstone. The park—and the new resort—takes its name from the local Kololo phrase for the falls, which means 'The Smoke that Thunders'.
The resort has been constructed, and will operate, with the greatest respect to one of the world’s largest waterfalls and habitat for several unique species of plants and animals. The building has
obtained a prestigious EDGE green building certification because of the hotel’s 20% increase in energy efficiency, water reduction and use of sustainable building materials, compared to other similar properties in the region.
In addition, the resort has signed the Unesco Sustainable Travel Pledge, which aims to promote sustainable travel, community resilience and heritage conservation globally. “By signing the Pledge, properties publicly commit to actions that will reduce the environmental impact of their businesses, raising awareness to travellers and helping them make more sustainable travel choices,” according to the Pledge website (unescosustainable.travel).
The Pledge is aligned with the Radisson Hotel Group’s own awardwinning and globally recognised Responsible Business programme. The group believes in conducting business ethically in all it does and aims to be a thriving, sustainable and responsible business for people, the community and the planet.
Radisson Blu Mosi-oa-Tunya, Livingstone Resort features 200 rooms, luxurious suites and villas, many with unparalleled views of the Zambezi, and all inspired by the African ecosystem. Plan a trip of a lifetime with your family and friends—the Royal Villa lets you book multiple rooms together, including connecting rooms, with kitchenette and dining area.
Visitors have the opportunity to immerse themselves in a unique river cruise on the Zambezi. The Adventure of Mosi-Oa-Tunya River Cruiser has a lounge on the first deck and a full bar and lounge on the second deck, both letting you enjoy snacks and drinks on the water. Sail out in the afternoon and enjoy a unique sunset from the viewing platform on the third deck.
There are also off-river adventure
SOUTHERN AFRICAN TRAVEL • Zambia
excursions: from Victoria Falls bridge activities to helicopter flights, water rafting, canoeing, game drives, and more. The Activity Centre at the resort will assist you in scheduling tours so that you can experience as much as possible of the beautiful location.
After all the activities and sightseeing have whet the appetite, guests can enjoy the resort’s bespoke all-day dining restaurant, Kuomboka. Signature cuisine features local and international dishes—plus the open show kitchen is a treat for the entire family.
Sip your favourite drink at the sophisticated Shungu Bar, or select a wine or cocktail and pair it with tapas. There's also a separate coffee lounge where you can indulge your sweet tooth in aromatic coffee and cakey treats.
Gaze out over the Zambezi River—or the spectacular Victoria Falls in the distance—from the Viewing Deck. This is a romantic spot for a drink and a light meal while the sun sets.
Also overlooking the river is the Pool Bar, where you can order snacks, drinks and ice cream while
cooling off in the refreshing water.
For those wanting to stay fit while on vacation, the resort offers a well-equipped fitness centre. Add in a little pamper session at the spa and hair salon, or simply laze around the infinity pool on the fourth floor, with its calming river views.
Radisson Blu Mosi-oa-Tunya, Livingstone Resort is also an ideal setting for events and meetings, with its ballroom of over 500 square metres, boardrooms and meeting rooms—plus modern audiovisual equipment, presentation equipment, and TVs with mirror casting.
At the end of a long day, the outdoor Boma Restaurant with fire pit allows guests to make the most of the African evenings and gorgeous sunsets. Experience traditional African cuisine in an al
fresco setting, making new friends in this congenial location.
And before you say goodbye, pop in at the gift shop to purchase a memento or souvenir, or even gifts for loved ones back home.
“Radisson Blu Mosi-oa-Tunya Livingstone Resort represents a unique destination for our guests to discover and explore,” says Tim Cordon, chief commercial officer for the Middle East & Africa at the Radisson Hotel Group. “The expansion of our presence in Zambia demonstrates our belief in the country’s potential. This hotel is our second property in Zambia, following the opening of Radisson Blu Hotel, Lusaka—with a third hotel, Park Inn by Radisson Lusaka, Longacres, due to open in 2023.”
For more information or to book your stay, visit www.RadissonHotels. com
The Activity Centre at the resort will assist you in scheduling tours so that you can experience as much as possible of the beautiful location.
HOW TO GET THERE:
While off the beaten path within a superb natural ecosystem, the Radisson Blu Mosi-Oa-Tunya, Livingstone Resort is still easy to reach.
Fly into Harry Mwanga Nkumbula International Airport, just 10km away, and drive or take a taxi the rest of the way (15 to 20 minutes, depending on traffic).
The resort is also just 8km from downtown Livingstone.
From the Zimbabwe Border Post, it’s a 10- to 15-minute drive by car or taxi.
Where the road leads
Enjoy the best of Namibia at your own pace on a self-drive journey—here's all you need to know before setting off on this memorable trip
Namibia’s great roads, ample car hires, and exceptional record on safety make it a fantastic destination for travellers who like to have some flexibility in their itinerary to explore places off the beaten track. All you need is a reliable vehicle, an international driver’s licence, a good map and a sense of adventure.
Planning your route
Deciding on a route is the most difficult—and most fun—part of planning your self-drive holiday through Namibia. Determining the appropriate amount of time to spend at a destination and the driving times between can seem daunting. But don’t fret; there's plenty of help out there. You just need to know where to look. You can find a certified Namibia specialist at bit.ly/3e6kbwt.
Self-drive operators
Tour operators with local knowledge are an invaluable resource when planning a self-drive holiday in Namibia. Their on-the-ground knowledge and expertise are good assets throughout the planning process. It’s best to do some research first and get an idea of which destinations you would like to visit, prioritising those that you simply cannot miss. Once you have your list of destinations, an operator will work with you to create an itinerary for the amount of time you have in Namibia.
A directory of self-drive operators can be found at bit.ly/3yk7chv and bit.ly/3SEXMp5
Classic Namibia itinerary
This is an example of a classic two-week Namibia self-drive safari. As you’ll see, the circular route means no long distances between attractions and no backtracking.
Day 1: WINDHOEK
Arrive in Namibia’s capital city, check into your accommodation and then head over to the famous Joe’s Beerhouse (www.joesbeerhouse. com) for some delicious game steaks including kudu, zebra and springbok, and wind down with an ice-cold Windhoek lager.
Day 2: CENTRAL HIGHLANDS
Get up close with some of Namibia’s big cats by paying a visit to renowned conservation organisations: AfriCat (africat.org) and the Cheetah Conservation Fund (cheetah.org).
Day 3 to 5: ETOSHA NATIONAL PARK
The famed Etosha National Park is your next destination. Spend your days taking leisurely drives through the park, with frequent stops at waterholes along the way to sit and watch the animals in this magnificent setting.
Day 6: TWYFELFONTEIN
Leave Etosha through the Andersson Gate and head west for a visit to Twyfelfontein, Namibia’s only Unesco World Heritage Site. Twyfelfontein hosts some of Africa’s largest and most important rock-art concentrations—some date back 6 000 years!
Day 7: DAMARALAND
Explore the magic of Damaraland, including the Burnt Mountain, the Petrified Forest and the Organ Pipes (a mass of basalt slabs in a ravine). Here, you also have the opportunity to experience local culture at the Damara Living Museum (www.lcfn.info/damara).
Day 8: THE SKELETON COAST
Drive through the desert landscape of northwestern Namibia to the cool and often foggy Skeleton Coast. Visit one of the many famous shipwrecks that give the area its name, and see thousands of seals lying upon the rocks at Cape Cross Seal Reserve.
Day 9: SWAKOPMUND
Spend the day in the coastal town of Swakopmund with its distinctive German character rooted in the German colonial era of the previous century. This is your chance to take on Namibia’s towering dunes on a quad bike, go shark fishing, beach angling, sky diving or sand boarding.
Day 10: WALVIS BAY
Further adventure awaits, with options for kite surfing, kayaking, 4x4 trips into the dunes, angling from a boat, day trips to visit the Topnaar people by the Kuiseb River, township tours, visiting Sandwich
Harbour, enjoying dolphin cruises in the bay, or birdwatching on the lagoon.
Day 11: NAMIBNAUKLUFT PARK
Head south on the C14 toward Sossusvlei through the NamibNaukluft National Park. Stop at Solitaire (www.solitairenamibia. com) for coffee and a slice of Moose’s famous apple pie before spending the night at the foot of the petrified dunes.
Day 12 and 13: SOSSUSVLEI
Awake before sunrise and enter the park at Sesriem for the 64-kilometre drive between the high, red dunes of Sossusvlei. Hike up the famous Dune 45 or the even taller Big Daddy, and continue into Deadvlei with its photogenic camelthorn tree skeletons. Return to Sesriem for a stroll into the canyon and a desert sundowner. Start your last day on safari with an iconic balloon trip (www. namibsky.com) over the dunes as the sun rises, followed by a champagne breakfast in the middle of nowhere. Take in the vastness of the landscape, spot desert-dwelling animals, and take your last 100 photos for the family back home.
Day 14: SPREETSHOOGTE PASS
Take the scenic Spreetshoogte Pass back to Windhoek. Relish in the memories of your amazing trip and use the plane ride home to start planning your next one!
How to choose a vehicle
Car rental companies are frequently asked which vehicles are the most suitable for Namibia. Below are some important factors to consider when renting a vehicle:
• 4WD vehicles cost more to hire and run, but have good ground clearance and are normally fitted with tyres that are better suited to Namibia’s roads.
• 2WD vehicles have less ground clearance and carry less.
• 2WD camping cars come equipped with everything you’ll need.
• 4WD camping cars come equipped with everything you’ll need and are more versatile than normal sedans or other 2WD vehicles for camping.
• Motor homes are usually better suited to tarred roads, as they tend to be top-heavy and have poor ground clearance.
Major attractions such as Swakopmund, Sossusvlei and Etosha can be reached on paved or gravel roads in a 2WD vehicle.
CARAN, the Car Rental Association of Namibia, is a non-profit association of 18 members that was established to protect tourists and the car-rental industry against
substandard service. Car rental companies must subscribe to minimum standards before they can be accepted as members of the association. A list of CARAN member companies can be found at caran. com.na.
What to pack
Thorough planning is a vital prerequisite for any camping trip. Imagine erecting your tent and finding you forgot to pack the tent poles, or trying to light a campfire without matches. All visitors wishing to travel independently through the awesome, but sometimes isolated, Namibian landscapes should ensure they are fully equipped and self-sufficient.
Travellers using either their own car or hiring an unequipped vehicle will find several specialist
outlets in Windhoek—including Cymot for Greensport (bit. ly/43va2OH), Bushwhackers (www.nambush.com) and Agra Safari Den (safariden.com. na)—where kit can be purchased. Those preferring simply to hire equipment can contact Camping Hire (campinghirenamibia.net), among others.
The choice between ground tents and vehicle rooftop versions is a personal one. The latter is preferred by many for its ease of use and integrated mattress, superior view, better probability of catching the breeze, and less chance of encountering scorpions and other creepy crawlies.
There are many excellent sleeping bags on the market—a down filling being ideal both for its warmth on cool nights and for its lightness.
Here is a sample packing list:
• Table and chairs;
• A small stove (gas or methylated spirits) and a potjie (a classic black three-legged cooking pot);
• A good cooler box and preferably a fridge securely wired to your vehicle;
• Knives, chopping board, vegetable
SOMKHANDA GAME RESERVE
An authentic African experience
Somkhanda Game Reserve is a community-owned Big5 game reserve that stretches across 12 000 hectares of natural Zululand bushveld. This majestic reserve, which was formally proclaimed a nature reserve in 2011, is not only the first community-owned game reserve that introduced the critically endangered black rhino as a part of the WWF Black Rhino Range Expansion Program, but it is also home to the critically endangered African wild dog.
Apart from using the reserve as an economic engine for the neighbouring and beneficiary communities through sustainable tourism and resource utilisation practices, it places nature conservation as its core value. Somkhanda Game Reserve contributes significantly to both local and metropopulation conservation management programs.
Somkhanda Game Reserve is not only home to the famous Big 5, black rhino & wild dog, but also offers a safe and stable environment to caracal, serval, giraffe, blue wildebeest, zebra, nyala, bushbuck, red duiker, etc., and also boasts a variety of over 3500 bird species!
Somkhanda offers WILD CAMPING opportunities, organised WILD DOG monitoring, guided and self-guided game drives, large group camping for corporate and personal events, and trail running and riding adventures!
SOMKHANDA LODGE
This comfortable thatched lodge overlooking the rolling valleys and various indigenous trees seems to carve an everlasting impression in the hearts of all the guests that stay here. The lodge consists of six individual double ensuite units as well as two family units, all of which are spacious and tastefully decorated. The units can be booked out as self-catering and have access to a communal, fully equipped kitchen, two separate bomas (braai areas), and a sparkling pool area with loungers. Alternatively, our restaurant in the main area is only a short walk away and overlooks the large watering hole.
Our Tamboti Camp has five comfortable tents erected around a large fire pit. There is a spacious lounge tent where guests can relax, enjoy a cold drink, or read and play board games. Each tent sleeps two on single camping beds. Although wild, this romantic gem of a camp still offers creature comforts with it’s hot showers, flushing toilets, and hearty, authentic bush meals. We also have well-loved self-camping sites, such as Scotia, where guests can bring their own campers or tents to enjoy a private wild bush experience. With their own basic bathroom facilities, these sites are a firm favourite of return and first-time guests!
Only 3 1/2 hours from Durban, opposite Jozini Dam
TAMBOTI BUSH CAMP
peeler, can and bottle opener, corkscrew, scissors, salt, pepper and spices, tongs;
• An extremely useful headmounted torch;
• Firewood should always be purchased in prepacked form, never collected loose in the bush. Take along a small hatchet, firelighters and matches, two powerful torches and plenty of spare batteries;
• Vehicle spares should include a spare wheel (preferably two), air compressor or pump, tyre gauge, battery leads, tow rope, shovel and basic toolkit;
• Remember to take along sensible clothing and footwear, hats, sunblock, anti-malaria treatments if travelling to an affected region, toiletries and personal items;
• And don’t forget binoculars, a camera, a battery charger and spare memory cards!
Money and Internet access
Withdrawing money/ ATM machines
Money can be withdrawn with credit and debit cards at most ATM machines, located in all big towns throughout the country. Keep in mind that no ATM facilities are available in small towns and villages. Money can also be withdrawn with a credit card over the counter at most banks.
Using credit cards
Credit cards are useful in major cities and luxury accommodation facilities, but may not be accepted in smaller establishments and shops in small towns, and never at street markets or rural craft centres (though Windhoek’s main Craft Centre will accept them).
International Visa and MasterCard are generally accepted—and Diners Club and American Express mostly in large shops and big establishments. Keep the exchange rate in mind and also the fact that additional fees will be charged for using the facilities.
Internet access
The majority of accommodation facilities have Internet access available to their guests, and some restaurants and coffee shops have Wi-Fi. Internet cafés are found in all major towns.
Information from Namibia Tourism Board (visitnamibia.com.na)
Where to stay
1. Windhoek OLIVE GROVE GUESTHOUSE quiverandco.com/olive-groveguesthouse
Olive Grove Guesthouse offers a quiet oasis in Windhoek’s bustling city centre. Within walking distance from town, you can opt to visit the surrounding area, or enjoy the guesthouse’s warm service and delicious Namibian cuisine.
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2. Central Highlands OKONJIMA OMBOROKO CAMPSITE okonjima.com
Camping in Okonjima Nature
Reserve epitomises the African safari experience. Five partially equipped, private campsites share a swimming pool at the foot of the Ombokoro Mountains. Okonjima is the home of the AfriCat Foundation.
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3. Etosha National Park ONGUMA SAFARI CAMPS onguma.com
Onguma is situated on the eastern border of Etosha National Park. It offers two campsites. The fenced in Tamboti Luxury Campsites consist of 25 camps with private ablution facility, covered washing-up area, a restaurant and a supply store. The Leadwood Campsite has six sites surrounded by big, shady trees— each with shower room, toilet and washing up area.
Nestled in rolling boulders of a granite outcrop, this camp is conveniently situated a 10-minute drive from Twyfelfontein Rock Engravings, within walking distance of the Damara Living Museum and within the Huab River Valley. There are 12 furnished ensuite tents as well as a swimming pool, shaded terrace, and restaurant and bar with fireplace.
5. Skeleton Coast PALMWAG CAMPSITE
gondwana-collection.com
This peaceful campsite comprises 13 spacious sites, each with its own power point, light, wash basin and fireplace. There’s also a swimming pool and pool bar for meals. Elephants, drawn by the water in the river, have been known to venture through the campsite at night.
6. Swakopmund HOTEL DEUTSCHES HAUS hotel.na
Located within the town centre of Swakopmund, Hotel Deutsches Haus offers a charming ambience with a full in-house laundry service, free Internet, comfortable rooms and in-house restaurant and bar. Various activities around the town can be organised.
7. Sossusvlei NAMIB DESERT CAMPSITE
www.gondwana-collection.com
Just a few minutes’ drive from the road to Sesriem, these campsites are located under acacia trees on the bank of a dry riverbed and offer beautiful views of the petrified dunes of the primeval Namib. They are equipped with electricity, water, grill area and windbreak and share several communal bathroom facilities.
8. Walvis Bay FLAMINGO VILLAS BOUTIQUE HOTEL www.flamingovillana.com
This hotel features 27 rooms, a restaurant and the most spectacular views of the lagoon and its resident flamingos. Numerous excursions, including a trip to Sandwich Harbour, can be booked at the concierge desk.
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& play Work
Digital nomad visas offer the best of two worlds: what you should know before you go
Think of a digital nomad visa as a cross between a tourist and temporary migrant visa— a working-on-holiday visa.
Imagine starting your workday with a fresh coconut juice perched by your laptop as you gaze over the ocean or a tropical rainforest—or setting up your workstation in the shadow of towering red dunes. It’s the sort of thing to fantasise about during long, tiresome commutes and days in a claustrophobic, noisy office.
But so long as you have the right type of job, and an accommodating employer (not Elon Musk), it could be your reality.
The war for talent is no longer just between companies. More than 40 nations or territories now offer digital nomad visas to attract those able to be employed in one country while living, and spending their income, in another.
What is a digital nomad visa?
Think of a digital nomad visa as a cross between a tourist and temporary migrant visa—a working-on-holiday visa. Instead of the visa giving you the right to work in the country, it’s allowing you to stay so long as you’re gainfully employed and bringing money into the local economy.
How long you can stay varies, from 90 days to two years. Most are for 12 months, with an option to renew. Generally, the key requirement is that you can show you have no need to find local work and can meet minimum income requirements.
And, the visa conditions simplify
taxation issues: you continue to pay your income tax in the country of your employer. But this varies. For example, in some countries you're exempt from paying local income tax only for the first six months.
Combining work and travel
A key driver of the digital nomad trend is the ability to maintain a career while ticking off other personal goals, particularly travel and the ability to experience a different way of life.
Moving somewhere with a cheaper cost of living could be another motivation.
But before you decide to pack up, there are some things to consider to ensure being a digital nomad is right for you:
You’re a long way from home
The first is whether reality will live up to the fantasy. As a digital nomad, you’re a very remote worker, with all the pros and cons that come with that.
Some studies have shown remote workers can feel socially and professionally isolated.
Having an employer that’s supportive of your move will help. A 2017 review of prior studies on remote work found organisational support greatly reduces the psychological strain and social isolation felt by remote workers.
But working from home is one
thing; being in another country is entirely another. Living a long way away from family and friends and support networks is likely to be more challenging, no matter how idyllic your location.
If you like predictable structure and routine, the uncertainty and inevitable inconveniences that arise may mean it isn’t for you.
And while you may be exempt from paying local income tax, you’ll have to comply with all other local laws.
Foreign countries do things differently
If those things don’t faze you, here are three tips to make the transition easier.
First, all the usual considerations about remote work apply—and some are amplified. You'll absolutely need reliable high-speed Internet, and access to support services. Living in a remote village may be alluring, but how close is the nearest computer shop?
Second, understand when you’ll need to work. You may be on a different time zone to colleagues or clients. The novelty of an ocean view could easily wear thin after a few weeks of getting up in the middle of the night for Zoom calls. How available you need to be could be a big factor in choice of destination.
Third, you may still find maintaining work-life balance a challenge. Research has shown how easily work-life boundaries are blurred with remote work. The desire to prove you’re not slacking off may make it even harder.
But if you have the right personality, and you’re lucky enough to have the right job and employer, being a digital nomad may bring you the best of two worlds.
Namibia, your new office
Now you can experience day-today living and working in one of Africa’s best holiday destinations and culturally diverse countries. The Namibia Digital Nomad Visa programme was recently launched for those seeking priceless memories while also gaining international working experience and establishing lifelong contacts.
Apart from breathtaking landscapes that harbour plenty of wildlife, Namibia offers excellent road infrastructure, political stability, easily accessible foreign embassies and international consultants, and—most importantly for digital nomads—reliable Internet connectivity.
Issued for a period of six months, the Namibia Digital Nomad Visa will cost you approximately US$124, payable upon arrival.
The Namibian government has set up a swift and streamlined procedure to acquire the visa from the comfort of your couch. According to its website, the application process comprises just four easy steps:
1. COMPLETE THE VISA APPLICATION FORM.
The application checklist and application form can be downloaded at nipdb.com/nomadvisa.
You'll also have to demonstrate proof of income/funds (payslip/ employment contract) to sustain yourself and any dependants:
• Applicant—US$2 000 per month
• Accompanying spouse —US$1 000 per month
• Accompanying child—US$500 per month
2. BOOK YOUR FLIGHT TICKET/S.
Getting to Namibia is simple, thanks to airlines such as
Eurowings, Airlink, Qatar Airways, Ethiopian Airlines, Lufthansa and TAAG Airlines flying to the country on a regular basis.
3. FIND ACCOMMODATION.
Once your flight ticket has been booked, you need to find a place to stay. Namibia is the gem of southern Africa, with ample accommodation options available— including top-class guesthouses, luxury lodges and remote tented camps with excellent facilities. Make use of reputable online booking sites, or book directly with the accommodation establishment.
4. HIRE A VEHICLE.
With some of the best road infrastructure in Africa, getting to and from any place in Namibia has never been easier. The country has a number of trusted and reliable, accredited and registered car rental entities, which can be viewed on the website of the Car Rental Association of Namibia: caran.com. na.
Once you're officially a digital nomad in Namibia, there are ample activities to squeeze into your daily schedule:
• Hike the Fish River Canyon,
which is second only to the Grand Canyon in size.
• Book a hot-air balloon to view the skies at sunrise and witness the breathtaking views of Sossusvlei, home to the largest sand dunes in the world.
• Explore the rolling dunes of Sandwich Harbour where the desert meets the sea, and take part in a tour to learn more about how the flora and fauna thrive in this environment.
• Take a tour around the capital of Windhoek to understand its history—comprehensive 3- to 4-hour tours are available, including those to Katutura township.
• For wildlife photography, Etosha National Park offers classic safari tours by open game vehicle.
• Gaze in wonder at the ancient rock engravings at the Unesco World Heritage Site of Twyfelfontein, dating back an estimated 6 000 years.
• Stargaze in the NamibRand Nature Reserve—one of the most surreal experiences you'll have in the first dark sky reserve in Africa.
First section of article by Libby Sander, assistant professor of Organisational Behaviour at the Bond Business School
