SA Connoisseur - issue 294 Spring 2023

Syrah:

Neil Ellis'

WEST COAST WINE

WHAT WINE GOES WITH BLUE CHEESE SALAD?

ISTHE SIMPLICITY

SOPHISTICATION ULTIMATE

A closer look at West Coast Sauvignon Blanc

by Neil Ellis

To The West Coast

“In simplicity lies true beauty and satisfaction. Simplicity in fact, might be the ultimate refinement.” This is what Neil Ellis, one of the great pioneers of the South African wine industry, discovered when he started making wine from the West Coast over 30 years ago. Like the rugged, unspoilt landscape and people who call it home, the wines from this region tend to be stripped of all pretence...and there is an irresistible allure to this authenticity.

The remote and unspoilt environment along the shores of the Atlantic Ocean always held a special place in Neil’s heart. Here he could find stillness, reflect and gain perspective on life and work over countless visits. Many holidays were spent by these icy waters, enjoying the crayfish and fresh fish treasures from the deep.

Bush vines grown on the rolling hills of Groenekloof farm near Darling yield the distinctive fruit used to make this Sauvignon Blanc. The terroir is marked by the cooling effect of the Benguela Current and the ever-present south-east wind, while a moody morning mist leaves the most delicate imprint of salinity on the grapes. These conditions are perfect for slow, gentle ripening and create the ideal balance between fruit flavours and freshness.

Tropical flavours of passion fruit and melon abound on the nose and palate, along with a hint of citrus peel and freshly cut grass. On the lingering, balanced finish, a slight tinge of sea-salt minerality conjures up the wine’s coastal origin.

Fresh fish or shellfish on the braai sings in the company of West Coast Sauvignon Blanc by Neil Ellis. The bright acidity and ripe fruit flavours also complement crunchy summer salads and cheesy vegetable dishes.

www.neilellis.com

SPRING IS IN

After a long, cold and, in the Cape, very wet winter, we’re more than ready for spring. Bring on the sunshine, icy white wines and the signature smell of braai smoke. ’Tis the season for new beginnings and fresh starts, right? So, to celebrate, we’ve filled our pages with seasonal recipes, great wines and fun things to do.

To start, we head to the winelands where our resident wine writer and panel member, Malu Lambert unpacks the history of SYRAH—and explores its present standing in the Cape. (p.10)

From Syrah to SUSTAINABLE WINES, where we take a closer look at how South African winemakers can choose to tread lightly on our planet. Turn to p.16 to see what makes your favourite wine all the more eco-friendly.

Keeping things green, we’ve included three simple SPRING RECIPES to try. The dishes are full of fresh seasonal produce, and will fill you with all the springtime feels.

Still in the kitchen, on p.27 we share 5 SALAD AND WINE PAIRINGS to experiment with. The gang’s all here—from Greek to Blue Cheese—we’ve got you covered.

Does your cocktail game need a pick-me-up? On p.14, we’ve discovered a few of our favourite WINE AND COCKTAIL FINDS. From funky ice buckets to gin rummy card games— you’ll love them all.

Finally, on p.32 DAVE BIGGS shares how sitting on the couch with a glass of wine takes much more effort than you may think.

Not forgetting, of course, a rundown of all the latest and greatest in wine.

Cheers to spring!

CHAIRMAN OF WINE-OFTHE-MONTH CLUB

STANFORD WINE & CHEESE FESTIVAL, 7 OCTOBER

Join Walker Bay Wine Estate and Birkenhead Brewery for the 3RD STANFORD WINE AND CHEESE FESTIVAL. Enjoy views of the Klein River Mountains while you sip on wines from the local farms, cheeses, meats, breads, pickles, jams and more! Live music and kiddies activities too. R85-R175pp. www.webtickets.co.za

WHAT’S ON

Events Around SA

AN ACT OF FAITH CERAMICS EXHIBITION AT SPIER, NOW-23 OCTOBER

AN ACT OF FAITH, a new exhibition at Spier, features more than 40 ceramic artworks by artists from across the country. Resonating with Spier’s regenerative business and sustainability principles, some of the featured artists have prioritised working with recycled clay, repurposed from pre-loved creations. Free Entrance. www.spier.co.za

PAUL RENÉ SPLASH OF PINK FESTIVAL, 4 NOVEMBER

Arrive in style with a splash of pink at the home of PAUL RENÉ IN ROBERTSON

Ice-cold bubbly at a special festival price will be on sale, together with craft gin combinations. Listen to a swing band while enjoying oysters and other picnic-style foods on the lawn. Challenge a friend to a game of boule or croquet, while kid’s activities will keep them occupied. www.paulrenemcc.co.za

THE DIEMERSFONTEIN PINOTAGE TRAIL RUN, 8 OCTOBER

Head for the trails of Wellignton’s Diemersfontein for their annual PINOTAGE TRAIL RUN where you can take part in the 5km, 10km or 17km trail runs. The 5km and 10km trail will meander through the estate while the 17km route will visit the adjacent farms. Recover while enjoying the beautiful views, good music, snacks and Pinotage after the run. R220pp.

SWARTLAND SOSIAAL WYNFEES, 28 OCTOBER

The second SWARTLAND SOSIAAL WYNFEES will be held at the beautiful Org de Rac estate this year. A host of activities are set to take place on the farm’s lawns and veranda where guests can enjoy pop-up food stalls, picnics, live music and of, course, the opportunity to taste the wares of the Swartland’s wineries. R200pp. www.webtickets.co.za

FRIDAY NIGHT SWIMS AT BOSCHENDAL, EVERY FRIDAY IN SUMMER

BOSCHENDAL welcomes back their oh-so-popular weekly swim sessions where beginner to advanced swimmers are invited to train, enjoy, and get reinvigorated with H2O and their long-term activity partners, the 3YO team. Swimmers are welcome to train, with an option to swim up to 1.5km. R60pp. Why not visit the night market afterward for a welldeserved treat?

www.boschendal.com

SHOW STOPPING SUMMER SALADS, 7 NOVEMBER

Join Babel chef, Schalk Vlok, for a hands-on SALAD-PLATING DEMONSTRATION that transforms Babylonstoren’s garden harvest into a range of fresh, gloriously colourful salads for lunch. Steaming coffee from the Lekker Room is served upon arrival and lunch at the Bakery is included. R990pp.

www.babylonstoren.com

WINE & DINE

What’s New in Food and Wine

LUCKY ELEVEN

Taking its name from the address on Franschhoek’s historical main road, ELEVEN is set to offer contemporary cuisine inspired by big themes. “Eleven is the culmination of a dream,” says Chef Ryan Shell. “It embodies something completely new for Franschhoek—a town I’ve really come to love.” The restaurant is a concept inspired by Ryan’s experience at premier eateries in the UK and several local five-star properties. Eleven will be the third establishment in Franschhoek undertaken by the team behind Asian restaurants—Ōku and Yama Asian Eatery, which opened in 2020. The extensive menu includes the likes of Truffled Goats’ Cheese, Prawn Tortellini and a Lemon Thyme Panna Cotta. See you there?

To make a reservation, email reservations@eleveneats.co.za.

WONDER WOMEN

NEW PUPS & OLD DOGS

Shiraz SA has revealed the winners of the 11TH ANNUAL SHIRAZ

SA CHALLENGE —where veteran producers and newcomers made the coveted list. This year, producers were invited to enter with “excellence, innovation, creativity, sustainability and social responsibility” as criteria. Shiraz SA awarded the second annual Bernard Podlashuk Shiraz Trophy to Creation Wines, beating two other worthy contenders, Ken Forrester Wines and De Grendel. This year saw a total of sixteen winners named (in alphabetical order) in three categories.

The Top 12 Shiraz of 2023:

Launched in 2020, HER Wine Collection continues to make waves as the first branded wine to come out of Adama Wines, an all-women-run company from Wellington. General manager and winemaker, Praisy Dlamini, believes that having each spent several years working in the wine industry, they saw a gap in the market for an all-female, all-black business that could combine their skill sets to offer something new. “We pride ourselves on sourcing the best grapes from local vineyards as it gives us control over the complexity and depth of flavour in each collection.” says, Dlamini. Better yet? They have pledged to contribute 2% of their profits to a scholarship fund that enables young, talented and driven individuals to achieve their dreams through the HER Wine Collection Bursary. www.herwinecollection.co.za

1. Anthonij Rupert Cape of Good Hope Riebeeksrivier Syrah 2018

2. Darling Cellars Gustus Shiraz 2021

3. De Grendel Op die Berg Syrah 2021

4. Dewaldt Heyns Weathered HandsShiraz 2020

5. Diemersdal Syrah 2022

6. Fairview The Beacon Shiraz 2020

7. Flagstone Dark Horse Shiraz 2019

8. Groenland Syrah Premium 2018

9. Kleine Zalze Family Reserve Shiraz 2019

10. Stellenzicht Arenite Syrah 2019

11. Uva Mira The Mira Shiraz 2020

12. Wildeberg Red 2022

The 2023 Shiraz Blend Winners: Babylonstoren Babel 2021

Flagstone Velvet 2017

Quoin Rock Simonsberg Blend 2020

The 2023 Shiraz Rosé Winner: Villion Rosa Rabbedoe Rosé 2023

SOMETHING’S COOKIN’

Meet Carla Schulze, Executive Chef at Cape Town’s SALON restaurant. Over the past seven years, Chef Carla has quietly become the creative force within Luke Dale Roberts’ impressive portfolio of restaurants. Schulze was also key to the creative energy behind the opening of Salon—working in the development kitchens to fine-tune the menu. “All of the plates at Salon are very much inspired by the years Luke spent cooking in kitchens across the world. He just has so many stories, and so many experiences, from his time abroad and these all act as the seed for creating new Salon dishes,” says Schulze. “As a chef it’s fantastic to combine my own experience and creativity with these new flavours and dishes he introduces.”

Book your table at www.salonct.co.za

MIRROR, MIRROR ON THE WALL

Whoop! THE WORLD’S BEST VINEYARDS have been revealed for 2023—with the competition aiming to highlight the Top 50 most amazing vineyard experiences. Each year, they curate a list spanning five continents— showcasing the finest vineyard experiences from around the globe. The voting academy consists of over 500 leading wine experts, sommeliers and travel experts who submit their nominations based on different criteria including the overall experience, ambiance, cuisine, activities, views and staff. So, who made the prestigious list in SA? Well, not one but 5 South African vineyards have been named in this year’s top 100. Creation made it to the top 5 and was named the 4th best wine farm in the world—also being named the best vineyard in Africa. Klein Constantia nabbed 32nd place with Delaire Graff Estate in Stellenbosch just a few spots behind in 36th place, Benguela Cove in Walker Bay and Tokara Winery in Stellenbosch coming 53rd and 94th, respectively. Cheers to our local gems!

Shapeshifter THE

Ampelography—the field of botany concerned with the identification and classification of grapes and grapevines—is a dense jungle of misunderstandings. Follow one vine to its root and see a host of surprising relatives spring up. I suppose it's not unlike meeting your partner’s family for the first time… Cousin John will likely retain his autonomy. Grapes—especially those that travel— assume all kinds of different identities.

Carménère, for example, was long famously mistaken for Merlot in Chile. While Shiraz was once believed to be of Persian origin, an apocryphal tale that has since been debunked, its home is now undoubtedly France’s Rhône.

In the Cape we have a fair number of our

own muddles. We may have centuries’ old records of when vines were planted, but not always accurately what.

Remember how we labelled the inferior Crouchen Blanc as Riesling? Syrah too suffered similar ignominy at the hands of early bookkeepers. In his exploration of Syrah’s history in the Cape, local wine authority Tim James uncovered that the bigger-berried Cinsault was thought to be the king of the Rhône*. In reference to the famous appellation, the usurper was slapped with the label of ‘Hermitage’.

Delving into dusty books, James shows this misapprehension was writ large.

Syphoning from the 1888 Viticulture in South Africa by Dr Hahn is this excerpt: ‘Hermitage is the ‘Sirrah bleu of the French’.

This opinion is reinforced in the later Viticulture of the Cape Colony (published in London in 1893) that Hermitage was called the ‘Grosse Syrah, originally from the valley of the Rhône’.

James uncovered that at last in 1890 Cape Syrah found its champion in JP de Waal, the manager of Groot Constantia. On an educational trip to Australia, De Waal realised that the Cape’s so-called Hermitage was actually Cinsault masquerading as Syrah. On his return home De Waal quickly actioned the importation of South Australian Shiraz vine material. And so, because of this, Syrah’s most germane Cape origins can be ascribed to the early 20th century.

The first single varietal bottlings took their time to bubble up through the big co-op

Syrah, also known as Shiraz— where’s it from and where’s it going? Malu Lambert looks into its history and present standing in the Cape

blends that were favoured for much of the Cape’s nascent winemaking. Syrah found its way into all sorts of batches undeclared, adding its spice and red-berried fruit. The first time it made a significant splash was with the original Alto blend of Cinsault, Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz with a winning streak at the Cape Wine show from 1924 to 1929.

In 1957 Bellingham was the first to bottle a straight Shiraz under the guidance of winemaker Bernard Podlashuk, who after this feat was dubbed ‘The Father of Shiraz in South Africa’. Others soon followed. In the early ’90s planting exploded, going from approximately 900 hectares to about 10 000 hectares in 2009. Today, at 11 000 hectares, Syrah is the second most planted red variety in South Africa after Cabernet Sauvignon; and ranks fourth in the index overall.

SYRAH ON THE FRINGE

Ostensibly, Syrah seems to be in rude health in the Cape vineyards. Take a closer look—as viticulturists are wont to do—and truth is a little more complex. The variety is billed as an all-rounder, meaning it can grow presumably well in divergent

sites with different soils and climatic conditions, making it attractive to growers. Virtually all of South Africa’s regions have substantial plantings of Syrah.

Viticulturist

Etienne

Terblanche believes differently to the ‘grows well everywhere’ maxim. “We now know it is an extremely specialised variety, likely preferring a very narrow band of terroir in relation to the wines that are currently in vogue within a fine wine context.”

The highly regarded consultant emphasises that ‘vine growing is a long-term project’ and that before replanting a grower will need to achieve some kind of return on the original investment within a cycle of

’Syrah is not as sensitive to its picking times as say Cabernet Sauvignon

20 to 25 years. In this context Terblanche opines that after the initial boom in plantings we saw in the ‘90s and early 2000s: “…it appears as if Shiraz is actually losing ground, so to speak.

“We would have seen an even sharper decline were it not for its relatively productive nature compared to say Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, both which generally yield lower.”

While Terblanche acknowledges there are market driven reasons for the decline, he comments that the cultivar also poses a slew

of problems in the vineyard, such as “stockstandard” leaf-roll as well as ‘Shiraz decline’ and ‘Shiraz disease’, both of which he says are irreversible and poorly understood. “This has meant we have lost the ability to plant some of the qualitative clones, which are susceptible to these diseases. We’re finding producers with a clearly defined market and wine style are renewing their Shiraz vineyards.”

Ultimately the driving force for the cultivar is the current surfeit of fruit, as well as the relatively low barrier to entry in terms of grape pricing as well as elevage. “Young guns are able to access good fruit and effect proliferation at the top end effectively repurposing lower end wine, with innovative winemaking and marketing.”

It tracks. Syrah all but flew the flag for the fine wine revolution in the Swartland. With producers such as Eben Sadie firmly shining the light on the variety since 2000 with cult Syrah-led blend the Columella. The Mullineuxs quickly followed in his wake with a host of single soil bottlings that captured the imagination of the world, among many other worthy mentions. There is no shortage of fine Syrah from this fabled region.

This energy has carried over into the cooler parts of Stellenbosch, particularly in the Polkadraai Hills, where a host of

As an industry we're definitely moving away from the very big and juicy Syrahs. I think we realise that we lose a lot of nuance and character when we go in that spectrum

’ ’

producers turn out award-winning examples, among them Lukas van Loggerenberg, Craven Wines, Damascene—and Duncan Savage is currently planting a new Syrah vineyard at the top of this hallowed hill. Neighbour Boschkloof Wines likewise excavates this prime terroir to produce arguably some of the finest Syrah in the land.

The grape seems to like lofty views too, as evidenced by De Grendel’s Op die Berg range with mountain-grown Syrah at 1000 metres above-sea-level on the Ceres Plateau. Another notable and high flung wine is Damascene’s Cederberg Syrah, which is sired on a rocky ledge that soars 900 metres.

It appears that fine Syrah thrives in liminal places. Proof of this is the cohort of indisputably elegant, and haunting, Syrah hailing from the Cape’s southernmost point of viticulture, the wind-battered coast Agulhas. Here a group of producers form the Agulhas Wine Triangle. Among them is Trizanne Barnard of the eponymous brand, who crafts her celebrated Syrah from two distinct Elim sites.

“Syrah is not as sensitive to its picking times as say Cabernet Sauvignon, which is so critical to pick at optimal ripeness,” Barnard explains. “With Syrah the structure is a lot softer. So you can go super long in terms of harvesting, and then you’ll get a big, jammy expression of Syrah. Or, you can go less ripe and get a wonderful expression of the terroir. I find as soon as the alcohol drops below 13.5 per cent, the terroir speaks. If it goes over 14.5 percent alcohol, then I find a loss of identity—I could make that wine almost anywhere.

“As an industry we're definitely moving away from the very big and juicy Syrahs. I think we realise that we lose a lot of nuance and character when we go in that spectrum.”

Syrah true to its nature continues to shapeshift, morphing as it grows on the fringes of South African viticulture.

*From Tim James’s research in ‘The Story of Syrah in the Cape’ on winemag.co.za

Syrah true to its nature continues to shapeshift, morphing as it grows on the fringes of South African viticulture

SPRING FINDS

Cocktail Caddy with Handles, R1199. from Bar Butler.

Bee Inlaid Marble Wine Holder, R449 from Poetry.

BarCraft Hammered Brass Finish Cocktail Tool Set, R879 from KitchenCraft.

Vivid Bordeaux Wine Glasses, Set of 2, R499 from Bespoke Home.

Gin Rummy, R385 from Pezula Interiors.

Champagne Sealer Set R829 from Rabbit.

Beech Wood Cocktail Muddler, R329 from Oh Nice.

Sparkling Wine for Modern Times, R360 from Poetry.

The Gin Trunk, (POA) from Fieldbar.

The Essential Cocktail Book, R360 from Poetry.

Cocktail Hour Infusion Set, R229 from Poetry.

Mandarin Ice-Bucket, R1390 from Pezula Interiors.

Bronze Finish Ice Bucket, R1780 from Bespoke Home.

Leather Sleeve Ice Tongs, R360 from Bespoke Home.

Sustainablewine? WHAT MAKES

We breakdown the nitty gritty of ‘green’ wines

So, you’re feeling pretty good about your sustainable self as you sip on your favourite eco-friendly Chenin Blanc in the sunshine. But what really makes a wine ‘green’? Sure, things like saving water, planet-friendly pesticides and bees-a-buzzing all help, but there’s so much more that goes into making an eco-conscious wine. Here, we highlight key factors that help contribute to making that delicious wine in your glass all the more sustainable:

When it comes to VINEYARD MANAGEMENT , organic and biodynamic farming techniques help to minimise the use of synthetic pesticides and fertilisers—promoting a healthier ecosystem. Plus, crop covering (covered crops manage soil erosion, soil fertility, soil quality, water, weeds, pests, diseases, etc.) and crop rotation work to enhance soil fertility and reduce erosion—also helping to maintain that grape-growing soil health.

When it comes to WATER CONSERVATION , drip irrigation systems work to target water delivery directly to vines, helping to reduce a wine farm’s overall water wastage. Things like rainwater harvesting and water recycling minimise water use and also help to reduce the wine’s overall environmental impact.

Planting cover crops and preserving natural habitats PROMOTES BIODIVERSITY and encourages beneficial insects and wildlife that contribute to pest control. Another ecofriendly trick local wine farms use? Integrating diverse crops alongside vineyard plantings to create a more balanced ecosystem.

Local wine farms are adopting RENEWABLE ENERGY SOURCES, such as solar panels or wind turbines, all working towards reducing a wine farm’s carbon emissions. And, wine farms are also using energy-efficient winemaking equipment, practices and processes that aid in minimising energy consumption and reducing their overall carbon footprint.

Making use of composting and recycling programmes help to REDUCE LANDFILL WASTE and turn organic waste into more valuable resources. Things like innovative packaging solutions, like using lightweight glass bottles and recycled paper for wine labels all work towards decreasing material use and treading lighter.

WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN ORGANIC

WINE, BIODYNAMIC WINE AND NATURAL WINE?

.Organic: Organic wine is produced from grapes grown without synthetic pesticides, herbicides or artificial fertilisers. It prioritises sustainable and eco-friendly farming practices.

.Biodynamic: In order to be biodynamic, a wine must first be organic. Biodynamics goes further than organic, working in line with natural cycles, notably the solar and lunar cycles. Another key difference? The level of sulphites allowed is also lower in biodynamic wine than in organic.

.Natural: Natural wine is made with minimal intervention, both in the vineyard and the cellar. It often involves organic or biodynamic farming practices but focuses more on a minimalist winemaking approach with as little human interruption as possible.

Boland Cellar’s RESERVE

Boland Cellar’s Reserve label features a range of ultra-premium varietal white and red wines named after and associated with the particular vineyards where the grapes originate from.

VINEYARDS

Boland Cellar selects its grapes from a wide geographical region which includes over 40 farms spanning five climate zones and nearly 2 000 hectares of prime terroir. From the Paardeberg and its surrounds to the Drakenstein Mountains, Swartland, Berg River Valley and coastal areas this variety makes for incredibly diverse and nuanced wines. The grapes used for the Reserve Range come from some of the oldest, most characterful vineyards in the respective wards.

STRATEGY

The Reserve range is part of a comprehensive strategy (Greenpop Forests for Life pro gramme planting bee habitat) to ensure the sustainability of Boland Cellar’s cultivation, winemaking and ethical trade practices into the future.

HELLO SUNSHINE!

With the arrival of Spring we shine a light on four important wine categories

IRINA VON HOLDT CWM

So good to feel that warm sunny glow again. Spring means new growth is pushing upwards and every imaginable shade of green is fluttering in the breeze. But while gardens wake up and

crops start growing, vines begin to show their first tender green leaves—without doubt the most beautiful green on the planet. So our thoughts turn naturally to the wines they will produce. Yay!

OL’ FAITHFUL CHENIN

In the sunny Cape, most of the vines are Chenin Blanc, our trusty old faithful. Over recent years she’s undergone some very smart grooming and has shed her somewhat dowdy image. Now graceful and elegant, wearing a whole new wardrobe, it seems she’s developed a multi-personality.

Our tasters all love her, but certainly not all of the examples. First of all, there is a fresh and fruity personality intended for early drinking, bursting with fruits from the easy apple and pear versions through to the pineapple and exotic tropical fruit versions.

Well, not always, so let’s get the gripes out of the way first.

“Why are we seeing 2023s now?” Malu pointedly asks. That was in early June already.

“And then when were the grapes picked?” asks Claude.

“What bothers me,” says Christine, “are the low alcohols and high acids. We keep

complaining about this.”

“That’s because they keep adding acid,” says Claude. “I’m not against it but too much and you head into Sauvignon Blanc territory.”

“Chenin is simply seen as a cash cow,” says Clive.

Irina chimes in. “No individuality, and huge yields of watery grapes all made to a formula. That’s so sad because this beautiful variety is worth so much more than that. Worst of all, the wines don’t last. I call them ‘dead by Christmas’ because they usually are.”

All of which sums up the problems of greedy yields, early harvesting and thoughtless winemaking, all in a hurry to get to the bank. There’s nothing wrong with money in the bank, but at least give us value for money. Making a better wine that sells for a better price is a better way to get still more money into the bank.

On the plus side, we see richer and riper wines—delicious, juicy, young wines— spilling out another personality from generous Chenins.

“When I find apples, melons and pears, or tropical fruit salad, then I’m happy. If I find varietal character I’m even happier,” says Clive.

Margaret gets into the action. “I like these young wines, they’re fruity, floral and fresh.”

Good point. She reminds us of the lovely floral aromas which are particularly appealing in young Chenin, often apple or almond blossom, spring flowers or hints of mimosa.

“The good ones show us that you can get complexity into unwooded wines,” says Winnie.

“When they’re ripe, and only when they’re ripe, then they are really lovely,” says Christine.

“Those’ll last well beyond Christmas!” laughs Irina.

“The winemakers must not forget lees contact, leave the wines on the lees for as long as possible,” says Clive. “And, talking about lees, why not ferment Chardonnay on the lees too?”

What everyone is saying is that something is missing unless the grapes are allowed to ripen fully, then made carefully and thoughtfully to extract maximum

flavour. The ‘something missing’ need not be oak—and that’s another question. The oaked versions are yet another aspect of our multi-personality Chenin. Generally, they score more highly than the unoaked, but not always.

“I think some of these have had a very short acquaintance with oak, like just a stave or two,” says Irina.

“What I don’t understand is why would you put a wine with only 11% alcohol into oak? asks Colin. “We’ve seen some examples here.”

Oaking as an afterthought, it seems, but we do see some fine versions, properly oaked in barrels with no question about longevity because they first reach us at around three years old; deeper in colour and flavour with distinct bottle maturity and long, long

finishes. Bear in mind that a winemaker who aims to oak wines will select grapes carefully from a low-yielding vineyard and wait for perfect ripeness before harvesting, then invest a lot of time and patience in making the wine to justify the expense of the oak.

Greg sums up. “When it’s good, Chenin is our sunshine in a glass!”

UNUSUAL SUSPECTS

Tired of the same old, same old? When we’re tasting the category of wines we call Unusual Whites, it is always exciting and full of surprises. Think, when last did you taste a Verdelho, or Vermentino, or perhaps a white Pinotage? Mmm, we thought so.

With global warming already happening,

MEET THE PANEL

leaders in the wine industry—and here we mean organisations like Vinpro and vine nurseries—can’t afford to delay trying new varieties more suited to a hotter environment. After all, it takes years to give an experimental vine time to produce grapes—three years in fact—and to evaluate whether it is suited to our conditions—another three years at least— and to make a decent volume of wine and of good quality—probably ten years in all. We’re living in exciting times as the rush is on with new varieties popping up all the time.

“Delightful, my best category,” says Winnie. “Look at this, five different Grenache Blancs alone.”

The panel gives the variety a thumbs up, while Irina thinks it would be better

Our panel (of 9 independent wine experts) blind tastes over 3000 wines a year to make sure you receive the very best (blind wine tasting ensures no judge is influenced by a label or the beauty of a wine farm or warmth of the host). This way, we focus only on what’s most important “what you taste in the glass”.

From left to right: Christine Rudman, Claude Felbert, Clive Torr, Gregory Mutambe, Irina von Holdt, Margaret Fundira, Winnie Bowman, Colin Collard and Malu Lambert

suited to a blend.

We look at Pinot Grigio, now no longer new, but being made regularly by a handful of producers. Clearly, there is a market for light, delicate wines with little flavour because that’s what they are. Maybe some countries import wine with no flavour so as not to overwhelm their food. This prompts a question from Christine: “Why on earth are we making Pinot Grigio in oak?”

MAYBE TO GET SOME FLAVOUR?

We agree that Viognier has come of age— the vines are mature and winemakers have learned how to manage the variety. Gone are the clumsy, over-oaked, over-extracted wines of the immediate past and instead we are seeing beautifully expressive wines with lusciousfruit and harmonious oak.

We also agree that Sémillon is a star. An old variety in the Cape, it has been rediscovered and made into vibrant, interesting wines, often blended with Sauvignon Blanc with which it shares herbal, grassy aromas and flavours. If left on its own and not watched carefully it can run to fat, but carefully nurtured it can produce some exceptionally good, balanced wines that benefit from oak ageing.

What of white versions of the red varieties? White Pinotages and Cabernets

WINES TASTED BY THE PANEL

CHENIN BLANC

WINE-OF-THE-MONTH

Survivor Chenin Blanc Reserve 2020

ALSO LIKED

Leopard's Leap Culinaria Chenin Blanc 2020

Mountain Ridge Chenin Blanc 2020

Laibach Ladybird Sur Lie Chenin Blanc 2020

Belle Rebelle Mariette Chenin Blanc 2020

WINE LISTED

Dornier Moordenaarskloof Chenin Blanc 2021

Jailbreak Chenin Blanc 2020

Spier Ideology Chenin Blanc 2021

Deetlefs Stonecross Chenin Blanc 2021

De Liefde Chenin Blanc 2021

Badger & Mountain Chenin Heaven 2022

Belle Rebelle Mia Chenin Blanc 2022

Denneboom Chenin Blanc 2022

Waterford Pecan Stream Chenin Blanc 2022

Rietvallei Chenin Blanc 2022

Dornier Cocoa Hill Chenin Blanc 2022

Rickety Bridge Chenin Blanc 2021

Bonnievale Chenin Blanc 2022

Koelenbosch Chenin Blanc 2022

Rosendal Chenin Blanc 2 021

SHIRAZ

WINE-OF-THE-MONTH

Stellenrust Pepper Grinder Shiraz 2020

ALSO LIKED

Marianne Shira z 2019

Groote Post Shiraz 2020

Eagles' Nest Shiraz 2016

Nuiba 2nd Post S hiraz 2019

WINE LISTED

Spier Ideology Shiraz Mourvedre 2020

Alto Shiraz 2018

Stellenrust Shiraz 2021

Wild House Shiraz 2021

Koelfontein Shiraz 2020

Gustus Shiraz 2021

Thelema Shiraz 2018

Cloof The Very Sexy Shiraz 2020

Kruger Family Reserve Shiraz 2018

Darling Cellars Reserve Black Granite Shiraz 2021

Meraki Shiraz 2019

Noble Hill Bloem Syrah Mourvedre 2020

Bosman Generation 8 Shiraz 2022

Roundhouse Shiraz 2021

Theuniskraal Shiraz 2021

UNUSUAL WHITE

WINE-OF-THE-MONTH

Steenberg Semillon 2021

ALSO LIKED

Cavalli Foal Verdelho 2020

Eagles' Nest Viognier 2020

Simonsig Grenache 2016

Marianne Viognier 2 021

WINE LISTED

Spier Ideolog y Albarino 2021

Morgenster Vermentino 2022

Langverwacht Colombar 2022

Fairview Viognier 2021

Theuniskraal Cape Riesling 2022

Jordan The Real Mc Coy Riesling 2022

Fairview Grenache Blanc 2021

Protea Pinot Grigio 2022

Mischa Estate Roussanne 2022

Terra Del Capo Pinot Grigio 2022

Cape Collective Wit Mossel Riesling 2021

Van Loveren Neil's Pick Colombar 2022

Front of House Pinot Grigio 2022

Wellington Duke White Pinotage 2022

Waverley Hills Pinot Grigio 2022

regularly disappoint. As Greg says, “What makes Pinotage great is the colour and the fruit. Take that away and there’s nothing left.” Ditto Cabernet. We are left with a miserable thin wine with no lovely Cab character. Clive explains: “Winemakers use charcoal filtration to get the colour out, but it also takes out the flavour.”

So what about Verdelho and Vermentino? We LOVE them—soft acidity and nice weight in the former and a sinuous liveliness and limy freshness in the latter. Oh! And don’t forget the new-style Clairette Blanche. Low-yielding old vines make a really interesting wine—dry and biscuity and reminding us of warm hay.

Colin has the last word. “On the shelf, go for an unusual white variety. Winemakers seem to take a bit more trouble with them.”

TANNINS, ANYONE?

We all like Merlot because it is ripe and fleshy and doesn’t have the same tough tannins as Cabernet. No. Wrong, wrong, wrong! After tasting hundreds of Merlots over the years and another hundred this year already, the one ongoing gripe remains: “tough tannins”. As Christine says, “Not only are they overly tannic, but they

are bitter, too.”

Greg puts it this way, “There are two problems, completely opposite problems, over-ripeness and hard green tannins.”

Winnie says, “I feel sorry for the poor consumers who keep buying this stuff not knowing there are so many better reds.”

Greg again: “As a sommelier I always try and suggest other wines, but Merlot is still the favourite red.” Oh dear, nobody is listening.

Christine: “And often the high sugar content is an attempt to try and fix it.”

Margaret plays nice: “But the sugar balances out the tannin, so it helps.”

Clive offers some help. “What winemakers need to do is microoxygenation—to help those tannins. I like the easy-drinking style, but when they go serious then the tannins are too hard. Needs micro-oxygenation,” he repeats.

Claude is serious. “I found what I expected, but I despair when I think there are consumers who actually like Merlot.”

So far this year not a single Reserve Merlot. That speaks volumes.

FULL OF CHARACTER

We love Shiraz, there it is. We like the

MERLOT

WINE-OF-THE-MONTH

Groot Tulbagh Merlot 2015

ALSO LIKED

Marianne Merlot 2019

Anthonij Rupert Merlot 2017

Eagles' Nest Merlot 2016

Vondeling Barrel Selection Merlot 2019

Marklew Merlot 2021

Van Loveren Merlot 2021

Whalehaven Merlot 2015

Groote Post Merlot 2020

Bosman Generation 8 Merlot 2022

Little Eagle Merlot 2017

Canetsfontein Merlot 2018

Kranskop Merlot 2019

De Wet Cellar Merlot 2021

Jakkalsvlei Merlot 2021

Wild Card Merlot 2021

Protea Merlot 2020

Slanghoek Private Selection Merlot 2021

Bruce Jack Front Of House Merlot 2021

Canetsfontein Merlot 2017 2017

SAUVIGNON BLANC

WINE-OF-THE-MONTH

Survivor Sauvignon Blanc 2021

ALSO LIKED

Clos Malverne Sauvignon Blanc 2022

Steenberg Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2022

Blaauwklippen Sauvignon Blanc 2022

Christiena Trousseau Sauvignon Blanc 2022

Doolhof Single Vineyard Sauv Blanc 2020

Jordan The Outlier Sauvignon Blanc 2022

Rhino Run Organic Sauvignon Blanc 2021

Simonsig Sunbird Sauvignon Blanc 2022

Koelenbosch Sauvignon Blanc 2022

Lievland Elgin Sauvignon Blanc 2022

Vondeling Sauvigon Blanc 2022

Wildeberg Wild Card Sauvignon Blanc 2022

Seven Springs Sauvignon Blanc 2020

Slanghoek Private Selection Sauvignon Blanc 2022

Protea Sauvignon Blanc 2022

Villiera Sauvignon Blanc 2022

Van Loveren Sauvignon Blanc 2022

Tangled Tree Tropical Sauvignon Blanc 2022

slightly spicy edge, the charcuterie aromas, touches of liquorice, the soft fleshy texture and plush character. It also comes in redberried versions, lively and with a slight tartness, good for picnics. Rather like Chenin, this is a many-faceted variety that can produce differing characters.

Some tastings feature more everyday styles so let’s get the negatives out of the way first.

“My favourite grape variety but generally we’re not doing it well enough,” says Clive.

“Disappointing in the main, borders on trying to be Merlot,” says Colin.

“Oops, that’s the ultimate insult!” quips Winnie.

“Yeah, it’s the new Merlot,” returns Colin.

“Maybe because it’s become too popular, winemakers don’t care enough,” muses Christine.

Greg is more forgiving. “Tannin management is good,” he says. “Mostly nicely rounded wines with good drinkability. Ticks all the boxes.”

“No great shakes, very commercial,” says Clive tartly.

Malu and Christine agree that it’s the market that has dictated how it is made. “It’s wine made at a price point—you can’t spend too much time on it so you have to

DARLING CELLARS

cut corners to meet that price point.”

It seems the accountants have now moved into the cellars.

At other tastings we are charmed and seduced by lush fruit sprinkled with spice, black pepper and liquorice.

“This can be a very sexy grape when they get it right—with concentration and good oak,” says Christine.

“I prefer those that are elegant or seamless, rather than the big beefy styles,” adds Malu. “I also like those that are blended, those with small additions of Mourvèdre or Viognier are very pretty.”

Colin finds some exciting flavours: “Raspberries, fruit pastilles, blackcurrants, which put Merlot in the shade!” A change of mind? “This is where Shiraz should be.”

“They are not only nice to drink, they are so well made,” says Irina.

Greg is also excited. “Some very nice wines. I can use these for ‘wine by the glass’ because of their drinkability. But why are

there so many wines with sugar? When you have savoury, spicy, meaty, plum and mulberry flavours, why so much sugar?”

Among the better wines, we find several that have been given American oak maturation, easily identified by their more prominent vanilla aroma. This oak gives less tannin to red wines and is suitable for Shiraz and Pinotage, but not Cabernet Sauvignon which demands and needs to get the best French oak.

We agree that even among the best wines there are the odd problems—tannin being an example. Shiraz is susceptible to leafroll virus which can result in more tannic wines, but Clive has his cure ready: “Micro-oxygenation and egg-white fining.”

We find a handful of Reserve wines, some very good wines, and a lot of very ordinary wines. Colin puts it this way: “For most of these, if I were a teacher writing a school report I would say, ‘Must try harder’!”

Secondary fermentation leads to the build-up of pressure and infusion of bubbles into the wine, making this a stunning, naturally bottle fermented, matured on lees Cap Classique. Definitely a sparkling wine to look out for, available from the cellar door, online and at selected outlets.

WINEMAKER’S COMMENTS

A bouquet of flavours opens up with fresh lemon, lime and green apples that excites your senses. Enjoy a creamy palate with hints of baked bread and toastiness that broadens the palate, ending with a well-balanced crisp acidity. To be enjoyed on any memorable occasion.

FOOD RECOMMENDATION

Enjoy with sushi, crayfish, Peking duck and even fruit cake!. Also pairs beautifully with fresh West Coast oysters.

Try

This wine complements the Spring Tabbouleh with Halloumi Salad

Constantia Royale Sauvignon Blanc 2021 (R150)

SPRING TABBOULEH WITH HALLOUMI

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS :

500ml vegetable stock

250g bulgur wheat

400g Halloumi cheese

2 tbsp vegetable oil

salt

freshly ground black pepper

4 sprigs mint

1 handful baby spinach

4 sprigs dill

1 stalk celery

80 g radishes

2-3 tbsp lemon juice

3 tbsp olive oil

SAVOURY QUICHE WITH SPRING VEGETABLES

Makes 6 - 8 slices

INGREDIENTS:

For the pastry

100g chilled butter; cut into pieces, plus extra for greasing

200g plain flour

1 egg

1 pinch salt

baking beans or dried pulses; for blind baking

For the filling

200g baby carrots

250g green asparagus

salt

150g crème fraîche

100g double cream

2 eggs

50g grated hard cheese; eg. Cheddar, Parmesan

freshly ground black pepper

METHOD:

1. Bring the stock to the boil in a pan. Rinse the bulgur wheat in a sieve with cold water and add to the stock. Cook for about 10 min, then remove from heat, cover and stand for about 10 min. Uncover, loosen with a fork and leave to cool.

2. Slice the Halloumi. Heat the oil in a frying pan and fry the halloumi until golden brown on both sides. Season with salt and pepper.

3. Rinse the mint, spinach and dill and shake dry. Pluck off the leaves and chop coarsely. Finely slice the celery and radishes. Add the celery, radishes, mint, spinach, dill, lemon juice and olive oil to the bulgur wheat and toss together well. Season with salt and pepper. Arrange on plates and top with the Halloumi.

freshly grated nutmeg

METHOD :

1. For the pastry, rub the butter into the flour with your fingertips until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. Add the egg and salt and bring together to form a smooth dough, adding extra cold water or a little flour if needed. Shape into a ball, wrap in cling film and chill for 30 min.

2. Preheat the oven to 180°C, gas 4. Grease a 10 x 35cm quiche or flan tin or dish with butter. Roll out the pastry and use to line the tin, pressing well into the base and up the sides. Line with baking paper and weight down with baking beans (or dried pulses). Bake for 10 min until just set and pale golden. Remove the beans and paper and leave the pastry to cool slightly.

Pairs beautifully with Baglietti Prosecco No. 10 (R229)

RECIPES | Seasonal Recipes for Spring

3. Meanwhile, peel the carrots. Peel the lower third of the asparagus, cut off the woody ends and cut the stalks in half lengthways. Blanch the asparagus and carrots in boiling salted water for about 2 min, then rinse in cold water and pat dry. Arrange evenly in the pastry case, trimming as necessary.

4. Whisk together the crème fraîche, cream, eggs and cheese. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg and pour evenly over the vegetables. Bake the quiche for 35 min until golden brown and set. Serve warm or cold, cut into pieces.

APRICOT TART WITH ROSEMARY

Makes 8 - 10 slices INGREDIENTS

For the pastry

375g plain flour; plus extra for dusting

170g chilled butter; plus extra for greasing

150g caster sugar

3 egg yolks salt

baking beans; for blind baking

For the filling

120ml double cream

1 handful rosemary

8 apricots

300g Greek yoghurt

3 eggs

90g caster sugar

icing sugar; for dusting

METHOD

1.Preheat the oven to 180 °C, gas 4. Grease a 24 cm loose-based fluted tart tin with a little butter.

2. Rub the butter into the flour with your fingertips until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. Add the sugar, egg yolks and a pinch of salt and bring together to form a smooth dough.

3. Roll out the dough on a floured work surface and use to line the tin, pressing into the sides. Prick the base of the pastry several times with a fork. Line the pastry case with baking paper and weight down with baking beans or dried pulses. Bake for 15 min. Remove the beans and paper.

4. Meanwhile, pluck the rosemary leaves from the stalks, reserving a few for decoration. Place the rest in a saucepan with the cream and bring just to the boil. Turn off the heat and leave to infuse for another 5 min.

5. Strain the cream through a sieve, discarding the rosemary. Add the yoghurt, eggs and sugar to the cream and mix everything together until well combined.

6. Pour the filling into the pastry case, spreading out evenly. Halve the apricots and remove the stones. Place the halves on top of the filling with the cut-side facing up.

7. Bake for 25-30 min until the pastry is lightly browned and the filling is set. Leave to cool in the tin for about 1 hour. Carefully turn out, dust with icing sugar and decorate with rosemary. Serve, cut into pieces.

Try this tart with De Meye Barrel Fermented Chenin Blanc 2021, (R155)

WHAT WINE GOES WITH BLUE CHEESE SAL AD?

Five of our favourite salad and wine pairings to try

The sniff of a scorching hot summer is in the air—and that means salads will be prepped and dressed for lunch and supper. Filled with fresh produce, there’s nothing better than a crisp salad on a hot balmy night, right? Well, maybe a crisp salad and the perfect wine.

First a word on dressings. A quick trick is to pick a wine that goes with the choice of dressing rather than the salad’s ingredients. A general rule of thumb is to pair tart, vinaigrette dressings with something like a Sauvignon Blanc. The acidic dressing will make the wine taste more fruity and less acidic. A creamy dressing such as a ranch or Caesar pairs well with an oaked Chardonnay or sweeter wine—helping to cut through the fattiness of a heavier dressing. Remember, these are just guidelines, have fun experimenting and see what works for you.

The creamy richness of Blue Cheese and its strong and slightly salty taste is a great match to a Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine’s dark red berry notes and tannin structure work to enhance the cheese’s complexity. Alternatively, a sweet Riesling will also contrast the sharpness of those overpowering Blue Cheese flavours.

Wine-of-the-Month Club recommends: Rietvallei Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 (R140)

BLUE CHEESE SALAD & CABERNET SAUVIGNON:

CAESAR SALAD & CHARDONNAY

A classic Caesar salad is made from romaine lettuce, garlicky croutons, grated Parmesan cheese and that signature creamy anchovy dressing. While a Sauvignon Blanc will work nicely here too, a Chardonnay with restrained oak will highlight those creamy textures of the dressing and Parmesan cheese flavours.

Wine-of-the-Month Club recommends:

Zandvliet Estate Chardonnay 2021 (R129)

ASIAN SALAD & RIESLING

Asian salads are generally accompanied by sweet and spicy ginger-style salad dressings. Sweet dressing often makes sweet wines taste less sweet, so an off-dry Riesling is a great choice here. Plus, the Riesling’s refreshing and floral notes make it the ideal partner for this flavorful salad mix.

La Vierge The Last Temptation Riesling 2020 (R100)

FRUIT SALAD & SPARKLING ROSÉ

In the mood for something fruity? When it comes to a summer fruit salad filled with strawberries, melon and citrus, there’s no better match than a well-chilled sparkling rosé wine. Of course, the wine’s acidity and subtle berry notes will only enhance the fruit’s sweetness. Best served by the pool.

Wine-of-the-Month Club recommends:

L’Ormarins Brut Vintage Rose 2016 (R165)

GREEK SALAD & SAUVIGNON BLANC: Traditionally a Greek Salad is loaded with Kalamata olives, creamy Feta, fresh onions, ripe tomatoes and a sprinkling of oregano. Often paired with a simple mix of balsamic and olive oil, a good wine match is a zesty Sauvignon Blanc. The Sav’s acidity and herbaceous notes pair oh-so-well with a classic Greek salad, also working to highlight the acidity of the tomatoes and herbaceous notes of the oregano.

Wine-of-the-Month Club recommends:

Glenwood Sauvignon Blanc 2023 (R105)

Salads will be prepped and dressed for lunch and supper

South Africa's Most Awarded

Mardouw’s range of olive products is made from our best quality olives, grown and cold-pressed at the private Mardouw Olive Estate in Swellendam, South Africa. Mediterranean climate and soil conditions at the foothills of the Langeberg Mountains in the Breede River Valley provide a perfect home for our 50,000 olive trees. The latest farming and harvesting techniques, including hand-picking and machine-harvesting, cold extraction at optimal ripeness within 24 hours after harvest, as well as expert blending of the best cultivars, guarantee the unique characteristics of our dedication to quality and consistency is reflected in the many local and international awards we have received since 2014.

A SELECTION OF TOP WINES TO TRY

CONNOISSEUR’S CHOiCE

Evocative aromas of cedar, crushed mulberries, heirloom tomatoes, sweetened by cassis opulence and hints of bouquet garni with lavender flowers. The tannins are perfectly rounded and draw the ample fruit into a beautifully dry finish that lingers with resonance. Drink now or cellar for 20 years.

PAIRING: Hard cheeses, beef and lamb.

The wine is complex, showing blackcurrants, spice, ripe plums and attractive wood aromas and flavours. It is full and rich with prominent tannins that bodes well for future ageing. Drink now or cellar for 6-20 years.

PAIRING: Beef, lamb, venison and hard cheeses.

Deep plum-red colour with a red brick rim. Notes of wild bramble fruit and ripe prune on the nose, with hints of dried herbs and underlying notes of toasted oak and vanilla. The tannins are finely textured, and the finish is crisp and clean with lingering notes of dried herbs and pepper spice.

Drink now or cellar for 10 years.

PAIRING: Game, beef and lamb dishes.

A delicious example of a young Cabernet. Rich red fruit flavors abound; black currants, cherries and plums. Lush, cassis concentrated fruit and capsicum with eucalyptus mintiness also playing a part. Drink now.

PAIRING: Beef, lamb and poultry dishes. Vegetables too.

Deep, ruby red in colour. Cherry and cassis aromas on the nose with delicate hints of violets. On the palate, the cherry flavours persist with just a hint of vanilla and cedar and a good lift of acidity. The tannins are sumptuous making this is a well-rounded wine. Drink now or cellar for 10+ years.

PAIRING: Roast beef, lamb and game.

Aromas of cherry, marzipan and violets with hints of white pepper spice and fynbos. Silky soft tannins add to the finesse with a youthful freshness to perch the bold blueberry fruit flavours. The fruit follows through beautifully with nuances of dark chocolate on the finish that lingers on the palate. Drink now.

PAIRING: Lamb, beef and chicken.

5. Rietvallei Estéanna 2019 (Price R399)

1. Ernie Els Signature Red 2017 (Price R795)

2. Vergelegen Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 (Price R369)

6. Benguela Cove Estate Syrah 2020 (Price R275)

4. Morgenster Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 (Price R155)

3. The High Road Classique 2019 (Price R240)

A compelling nose of struck flint, apple blossom, peach and cooling cucumber, chocolate with a silky sour cream palate and lime zest finish.

Drink now or cellar for 10 years.

PAIRING: Mild risottos, poultry, seafood, vegetables and soft cheeses.

STELLEKAYA’S 2015 CABERNET SAUVIGNON SHINES BRIGHT

Inspired by the brightest star in Scorpios, Antares, a “giant red” which forms the heart of the scorpion.

Stellekaya’s latest muse is the bright red star found in the centre of the Scorpio constellation, named Antares. Drawing inspiration from Antares, the 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon shows earthy and minty notes with enticing avours of dark fruit, tobacco and chocolate. e palate is both inviting and balanced with a backbone of acidity and an integrated tannin structure.

Earthy, structured and firm with liquorice, coffee bean, fig and mulberry flavours and a firm backbone of tannin. Drink now.

PAIRING: Red meat dishes, duck and ostrich. A great match with pasta al pomodoro and a rocket & basil salad.

You’ll find Stellekaya on the slopes of the beautiful Stellenbosch mountain—encased in the area known as the ‘Golden Triangle’. With the ideal elevation and quality terroir to grow Bordeaux varietals, the estate is surrounded by a biosphere and indigenous vegetation. Stellekaya’s perfectly positioned vineyards are nurtured and managed by Jane Lello with the help of the estate’s talented winemaker, Rose Kruger. Together they bring you hand-crafted red wines such as their Cabernet Sauvignon 2018. Inspired by the brightest star in Scorpios, Antares, a “giant red” which forms the heart of the scorpion. Stellekaya’s Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 is full of rich, velvet tannins and harmonious berry fruitiness.

Full bodied, fruity wine with black pepper, nut and berry aromas on the nose. The tannins are well structured and in perfect harmony. Very good ageing potential.

Drink now or cellar for 10-15 years.

PAIRING: Beef, lamb, venison and vegetables.

To purchase these wines and more, head to our website

www.wineofthemonth.co.za

8. Morgenster Lourens River Valley 2016 (Price R242)

7. Thelema Sutherland Chardonnay 2021 (Price R175)

9. Groenland Steenkamp 2017 (Price R325)

Job Creation

DAVE BIGGS ON WHAT REALLY GOES INTO A BOTTLE OF WINE

For many of us thirsty South Africans the act of buying a bottle of wine is just a tiny part of a busy day and we do it with hardly a second thought. “Mary’s making beef stew tonight, so I’ll pick up a bottle of Shiraz to go with it.” And we casually toss a bottle of red into the trolley along with the dish-washing liquid and cans of dog food.

Maybe we should spend a little time thinking about the many people and various skills involved in producing that bottle. Long before the winemaker squeezed the first grape there were labourers clearing the soil, levelling the patch that would eventually be a vineyard, planting the tiny vines and setting up the poles and wires that would support and protect the vines.

Skilled farm workers pruned the growing vines each year to ensure they yielded exactly the right sun-kissed grapes, rich in sugars and balancing acids. Meanwhile workers were selecting silica sand to heat in furnaces in the glass factories to make the bottles needed to hold the wine.

Designers worked at their drawing boards creating pretty labels that would tempt potential buyers. Chemists in printing firms were blending the inks for printing those labels, and creating complex lacquers to add colour to the metal screw-caps formed from aluminium alloys, ready to be fitted with the small plastic sealing discs that would prevent the precious liquid from leaking.

While designers had been working on an attractive label for the bottle, a team of industrial chemists created a suitable adhesive to stick the label to the bottle. In order to move the bottles from factory to vineyard, shops and car boots, tough

cardboard boxes were needed, and these were expected to be correctly printed, folded and glued for safe handling.

We haven’t even mentioned the army of tractor drivers, fork-lift truck operators, lorry drivers and strongarmed labourers needed to lift and move the cases. More people would be required to complete the necessary commercial and legal paperwork. Invoices, tax returns, receipts and delivery notes. At a guess I’d say many more than a thousand workers had been involved in getting that bottle of Shiraz into the trunk of your car.

And your wife sees you sitting in your favourite chair clutching a glass of wine and growls: “You lazy bugger! Are you going to waste the whole day sitting there doing nothing? “ Doing nothing? Good heavens, I’ve provided gainful employment for more than a thousand worthy workers. I should get a medal, not a scolding.

Illustration by: Kino Hogan

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

Colin Collard

EDITOR

Kari Collard

ART DIRECTOR

Alison Dingle

WINE BUYER / PUBLISHER

Natalie Collard

WINE TASTING COORDINATOR / ASSISTANT TO BUYER

Chesray Apolis

REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS

David Biggs & Irina von Holdt (articles)

OTHER CONTRIBUTORS

Malu Lambert (articles)

Lorraine Lines (Consultant)

CONTACT

ADVERTISING call on 021 492 4102 or email natalie@wineofthemonth.co.za.

WINE DELIVERY OR WINE ORDERS call 021 492 4100, fax 086 674 3966, or email info@wineofthemonth.co.za.

WRITE TO THE EDITOR: Email us on cheers@wineofthemonth.co.za or write to: The Chairman, Connoisseur, P.O. Box 30, Constantia 7848. Send press releases via email to alison@wineofthemonth.co.za. All contributions are edited for space and style.

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South African Connoisseur is published every alternate month by Converge (Pty) Ltd, Capricorn Boulevard South, Capricorn Business Park, Muizenberg, Cape Town, 7945. © Copyright 2020. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. Liability. While every care is taken in the preparation of this magazine, the publishers cannot be held responsible for the accuracy of the information herein, or any consequence arising from it. The views and opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of Converge (Pty) Ltd, the publication or the publisher.

worldCOFFEE FROM AROUND THE

Espresso yourself.So many blends, so little time. Take life one sip at a time, and stay grounded. Better latte than never. Take time to smell the coffee.