SAC Connoisseur Autumn 2023

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Worcester Discover Light Reds for Autumn WINE: The Greatest Love Affair of All? 4SEASONAL RECIPES TIME TO BUCK SNOBBY WINE TRENDS

Finesse, Complexity

& INTRIGUE

Moordenaarskloof is the name of the majestic mountain gorge that towers high above Dornier. The name Moordenaarskloof derives from a true story that tells of a commoner who lived alone in a house nestled at the foot of this gorge hundreds of years ago. He was well known in the area for the charitable services he provided to neighbouring farmers at the time. One summer’s night, the commoner went missing and was never to be found, seen or heard from again. Then, a few days later, fires tore through the valley, his house was destroyed, and with it all chance of solving the mystery of his disappearance. The foundations of his house are all that remain today.

Adjacent to this mysterious site, lies an old block of Chenin Blanc vines planted in 1986—a place the commoner would have passed daily to reach his house. This block of vines delivers a very particular essence in the wine it produces, something that cannot be found in wines made from other Chenin Blanc blocks growing close by.

The year 2017 saw the maiden release of Dornier Moordenaarskloof Chenin Blanc, a wine aptly named after the bewildering site to which the vines are planted and the mountain gorge they face. The age of these vines, their ancient soils and the cool mountain breeze that blows down the gorge lead to the

DORNIER MOORDENAARSKLOOF

TINTA BAROCCA DELIVERS A WINE OF SURREPTITIOUS ATTRACTION

production of a Chenin Blanc of exquisite finesse, complexity and intrigue. All the elements of fruit, sugar, acid, alcohol and oak are in perfect harmony. We invite all wine aficionados to discover this one-of-a-kind wine and the mystery that surrounds it at The Wine Lounge at Dornier.

Dornier is well known for producing artisanal wines from lesser-known, niche varietals—something that delivers a truly unique wine tasting experience at The Wine Lounge at Dornier. In keeping with this mantra and serving as the perfect red wine substitute to the Chenin Blanc in the same range, Dornier Moordenaarskloof Tinta Barocca delivers a wine of surreptitious attraction—and fittingly so. Produced from low yielding vines that are over 50 years old, this full-bodied and aromatic wine shows complex aromas of raspberry, mulberry and aromatic spices with a structured, rich and concentrated palate.

Dornier Moordenaarskloof Chenin Blanc (4½ Stars - John Platter) and Dornier Moordenaarskloof Tina Barocca (Top 10 Niche Varietal – Wine Magazine SA) are both produced in limited volumes at Dornier. The wines are available to purchase and taste at The Wine Lounge at Dornier and make the perfect accompaniment to the delicious cheese and or charcuterie platters served at The Wine Lounge.

W: www.dornier.co.za E: winelounge@dornier.co.za @dornier_wines +27(0)21 880 0557

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

Colin Collard

EDITOR

Kari Collard

ART DIRECTOR

Alison Dingle

FREELANCE DESIGNER

Shannon Latimer

WINE BUYER / PUBLISHER

Natalie Collard

WINE TASTING COORDINATOR / ASSISTANT TO BUYER

Chesray Apolis

REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS

David Biggs & Irina von Holdt (articles)

OTHER CONTRIBUTORS

Malu Lambert (articles)

Lorraine Lines (Consultant)

CONTACT

ADVERTISING call on 021 492 4102 or email natalie@wineofthemonth.co.za.

WINE DELIVERY OR WINE ORDERS call 021 492 4100, fax 086 674 3966, or email info@wineofthemonth.co.za.

WRITE TO THE EDITOR: Email us on cheers@wineofthemonth.co.za or write to:

The Chairman, Connoisseur, P.O. Box 30, Constantia 7848.

Send press releases via email to alison@wineofthemonth.co.za. All contributions are edited for space and style.

FACEBOOK: @wineofthemonthsa

TWITTER: @WotMSA

INSTAGRAM: @wineofthemonth

A division of Novus Holdings

South African Connoisseur is published every alternate month by Converge (Pty) Ltd, Capricorn Boulevard South, Capricorn Business Park, Muizenberg, Cape Town, 7945. © Copyright 2020. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. Liability. While every care is taken in the preparation of this magazine, the publishers cannot be held responsible for the accuracy of the information herein, or any consequence arising from it. The views and opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of Converge (Pty) Ltd, the publication or the publisher.

ON THE COVER Discover Worcester on page 10 06 WHAT’S ON—EVENTS IN AND AROUND SA 08 WINE & DINE—WHAT’S NEW IN FOOD AND DRINK 10 DISCOVER WORCESTER’S TOP WINE FARMS & MORE 16 LOOKING FOR LOVE? DAVE BIGGS ON A GREAT LOVE AFFAIR 18 MALU LAMBERT ON LIGHT REDS FOR AUTUMN 20 SIMPLE & SEASONAL RECIPES 23 YOUR GUIDE TO MIDDLE EASTERN FOOD & WINE PAIRINGS 26 IRINA VON HOLDT ON THE LATEST PANEL TASTINGS 31 YOUR WINE QUESTIONS ANSWERED 32 CONNOISSEUR’S CHOICE — A SELECTION OF TOP WINES TO TRY 35 THE RISE OF DE-ALCOHOLISED WINES 37 IT’S TIME TO BUCK SNOBBY WINE TRENDS 26 Contents 10 31 20

Come and taste our wines!

Oude Compagnies Post, Tulbagh

Winemaker: Dirk Swanepoel Contact: 0760138613.

Tasting room hours 11-4pm Mon-Sat and 11-2pm on Sunday.

WINE & DINE

What’s New in Food and Wine

THE CAPE WINE AUCTION RAISES ALMOST R8 MILLION IN ONE EVENING

In partnership with Mastercard, THE CAPE WINE AUCTION 2023 raised close to a whopping R8 million for charity at this year’s event—resulting in a total of R125 million since the first auction in 2014. This year’s auction was held at Hazendal Wine Estate in Stellenbosch on the 18th of February, with guests bidding for a collection of once-in-a-lifetime experiences and unique collector’s items. Some of the most sought after items included a 3-night getaway staying at the lavish &Beyond Benguerra Island in the Bazaruto Archipelago, an ultra-luxurious safari experience at the award-winning Cheetah Plains in the Sabi Sand Nature Reserve, and a 5-day stay in Paris and two golden seat tickets to the Rugby World Cup final. As the most significant international wine charity auction, the Cape Wine Auction has the single goal of raising money for education with 100 percent of the proceeds distributed amongst selected beneficiaries. www.thecapewineauction.com

La Motte Opens Artisanal Bakery & Garden Café

There’s something very comforting and welcoming about the smell of freshly baked bread, don’t you think? And, this is at the heart of the offering at the ARTISANAL BAKERY & GARDEN CAFÉ that’s just opened on La Motte Wine Estate in Franschhoek. Under the guidance of master baker Markus Färbinger (of Knysna’s well-known île de pain café) this charming day-time spot celebrates bread and all its glory. Alongside a delicious array of artisanal breads, the seasonal menu serves up croissants, mosbolletjies, granola, oats, eggs, open sandwiches, summer salads and even steak. For something sweet, visitors can enjoy a variety of fresh patisserie and baked treats. Open Wednesday to Sunday, from 9am to 4pm. bakery@la-motte.co.za.

WINE & DINE | What’s New SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR 8

What’s Cooking, Good Looking?

Experience the tastes of the winelands of France, Italy, Spain and South Africa at home through the pages of a new cookbook called HARVEST TABLE . Featuring over 60 globally inspired dishes accompanied by beautiful visuals, this hardcover book by Monché Muller takes readers on a culinary journey through some of the world’s best winelands. What started as a casual conversation about good food and wine, grew into a passion project that showcases the stories behind the ingredients, communities and local producers. The resulting smorgasbord of recipes ranges from easy to inventive, and includes traditional French Bouillabaisse, Deep-Fried White-Anchovy and Sage Fritters from Italy and Leaf Masala Seafood Potjie from South Africa. R559 from Exclusive Books.

BOSCHENDAL WELCOMES NEW EXECUTIVE CHEF

Boschendal Estate welcomes acclaimed South African chef ERIC BULPITT as their new executive chef. Theo Cromhout, CEO at Boschendal, says Bulpitt’s appointment is a major scoop for the farm. “Eric’s love of fresh local ingredients and deep connection to sustainably sourced South African produce aligns perfectly with Boschendal’s soil-to-fork ethos. We look forward to seeing how Eric draws on his extensive experience to create exciting dining experiences that showcase the best of Boschendal’s rich bounty.” Us too!

LUKE DALE ROBERTS STRIKES AGAIN

Chef Luke Dale Roberts is adding another feather to his bow with an exciting new dining concept called SALON POT LUCK . This hot new spot is located on the first floor of the Old Biscuit Mill Silo—below Luke’s other popular restaurant—The Potluck Club. The idea behind the funky bar/ eatery is for the space to serve as a salon or library that diners can visit before or after The Potluck Club. However, it’s also a foodie destination in its own right for those wanting to experience something unique such as French-inspired canapes, killer cocktails and, of course, fine wines— all in a beautiful setting. Salon Pot Luck is now open, from Monday to Saturday from 4pm-11pm. hello@salonpotluck.co.za.

DELICIOUS CHEESE & HERB BEER BREAD

Using beer as a raising agent in bread creates a fluffy, aromatic bread that’s quick and easy to make. Feel free to experiment with the below recipe, adding your favourite beer, cheese and herb mix.

INGREDIENTS

3 cups flour

2tsp baking powder

1tsp salt

1 x 340ml bottle beer of your choice

1.5 cups mature Cheddar, grated 3tbsp fresh herbs, chopped (parsley, thyme and basil, for example )

METHOD

Preheat the oven to 170°C and grease a loaf tin well. Combine the flour, baking powder and salt. Add 1 cup of the cheese and herbs and mix well then pour in the beer and mix until just combined. Transfer the dough to the prepared loaf tin then scatter over the remaining cheese and place in the oven. Bake for 45-60 min until the bread sounds hollow when tapped. Remove from the oven and allow to cool for 20-30 min before serving.

Recipe source: www.simply-delicious-food.com

WINE & DINE

SEASONAL RECIPES FOR Autumn

Cook these pears in Deetlefs Stonecross Cabernet Sauvignon 2020. Taken from Isabella Niehaus's new cookbook, There's a Vegan on My Verandah.

SWEET POTATO LENTIL CURRY

Serves 6

INGREDIENTS

1 tbsp coconut oil

1 medium onion, finely chopped

½–1 tsp dried chilli flakes

½ tsp ground coriander

½ tsp ground cumin

½ tsp ground turmeric

5cm piece fresh ginger, minced

3 garlic cloves, peeled and minced salt and ground black pepper

700g sweet potatoes, peeled and cubed into 2,5cm pieces

½ cup Imbo brown lentils

4 cups vegetable stock

1 can full-fat coconut milk

1 small bunch spinach, stems removed and leaves chopped chopped coriander leaves and lime wedges, to garnish

METHOD

1. Heat a large pot over medium heat. Add the coconut oil and let it melt. Add the onions and stir. Slowly sauté the onions, stirring occasionally, until translucent and quite soft (about 5 min). Add the chilli, coriander, cumin, and turmeric. Sauté the spices until they›re very fragrant (about 1 min). Add the ginger and garlic to the pot and cook for another minute. Add a pinch of salt and pepper.

2. Add the sweet potatoes to the pot and stir to coat with the spices. Now add the lentils and stir again. Season everything liberally with salt and pepper. Add the vegetable stock and stir, scraping up any browned bits on the bottom of the pot. Place the lid on and bring to a boil.

3. Once the curry is boiling, lower the heat to a simmer and set the lid slightly askew on top of the pot so that there’s a couple of centimetres available for steam to escape. Simmer until the sweet potatoes are almost falling apart and the lentils are tender (30 min). The liquid should also be reduced by almost a third.

4. Add the coconut milk and spinach to the pot and stir. Place the lid on and continue to simmer until the spinach is wilted.

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR 21 Seasonal Recipes for Autumn | RECIPES
The Deetlefs
Estate
Chenin Reserve
2018
is a refreshing wine to enjoy with this flavourful curry.

Recipes from Isabella Niehaus's new book, There's a Vegan on my Verandah Available at all good booksh ops, R450 plus VAT. Can be sent anywhere in SA at a cost of R60 per parcel. To order: carel@cnandco.com or bella niehaus24@gmail.com

SHEPHERD’S PIE

Serves 6-8

INGREDIENTS

6 medium potatoes, peeled

40g vegan butter

salt and pepper to taste

1 large onion, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 punnet mushrooms, chopped

1 yellow bell pepper, finely chopped olive oil, for frying

125g frozen mixed vegetables

1 can lentils, rinsed

2 cups vegetable stock

fresh herbs – we used rosemary, thyme and parsley

METHOD

1. Boil the potatoes in salted water until soft, then drain. Mash them using a potato masher. Now add the vegan butter, salt, and pepper to taste. Preheat the oven to 200°C.

2. Sauté the onions, garlic, mushrooms, and peppers in a bit of olive oil until tender.

3. Add the frozen veggies, lentils, and stock. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer uncovered. Once all the vegetables are soft and most of the liquid has evaporated, taste and adjust seasoning.

4. Scoop the vegetable mix into an oven-proof casserole dish and top with mashed potatoes. Spread the mash evenly using a fork and give it a final sprinkling of salt. Bake for 10-15 min until the potatoes are lovely and golden.

PEARS IN RED WINE

Serves 6

INGREDIENTS

100g brown sugar

1 large piece orange peel

1 stick cinnamon

2 cloves

½ tsp peppercorns

2-3 cups red wine

1 cup orange juice

6 medium-sized pears

METHOD

1. Peel the pears.

2. Place all the ingredients in a saucepan big enough so the pears fit snugly. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat. Once the pears are soft to the touch, remove them from the pot.

3. Continue boiling the liquid until it’s reduced and slightly thickened. When serving, pour some of the syrup over each pear.

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR 22
Enjoy with Deetlefs Family Red 2017

H

CONNOISSEUR’S CHO i CE

A SELECTION OF TOP WINES TO TRY

The Rickety

Bridge

Pilgrimage

Old Vine Semillon. A limited-edition wine produced from a vineyard block planted in 1905.

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