VOL 295
THE GREAT
Festive DRINKS GUIDE
Sauvignon
GETS SERIOUS
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ALFRESCO RECIPES
SAY HELLO TO SETTING THE BENCHMARK IN PROSECCO SINCE 1936 Located in the heart of the historic Prosecco territory between beautiful Conegliano and Valdobbiadene, Zardetto has been a leader in sparkling wine for over 40 years.
A RICH HISTORY For four generations the Zardetto family has proudly produced their popular Prosecco while perfecting its method of production. Forefather Bepi Zardetto, winner of prestigious awards since the 1930s, instilled his passion for viticulture to both his son, Ernesto, and grandson, Pino. Zardetto’s legacy carried on through Italy’s booming decade, which culminated in the establishment of an official family business in 1969, giving grandson Pino a platform to become a global ambassador of Prosecco di Conegliano—who was the first to export Prosecco to the United States in 1984. CHANGING THE GAME To this day, the family’s passion for quality endures as Zardetto continues to evolve and redefine the production of Prosecco as they have done for decades. By continuing to meticulously select the best grapes and perfecting the fermentation process, such craftsmanship has landed Zardetto Prosecco continuous accolades. Zardetto’s authenticity is deeply rooted in the rich Venetian soil it calls home. Each grape cluster carries the ancestral passion and wisdom of the local growers, while each wine embodies the distinct flavours and qualities of the region. In today’s crowded landscape, Zardetto stands out as the game changer. Vibrant and refreshing, it offers an all-encompassing experience for the modern wine drinker. Zardetto Prosecco is available online at in-store, at Norman Goodfellows and Solly Kramers nationwide. zardettoprosecco.com
EDITORIAL DIR ECTOR Colin Collard EDITOR Kari Collard ART DIR ECTOR Alison Dingle WINE BU YER / PUBLISHER Natalie Collard WINE TASTING COOR DINATOR / ASSISTANT TO BU YER Chesray Apolis R EGULAR CONTRIBUTORS David Biggs & Irina von Holdt (articles) OTHER CONTRIBUTORS Malu Lambert (articles) Lorraine Lines (Consultant)
CONTACT ADVERTISING call on 021 492 4102 or email natalie@wineofthemonth.co.za. WINE DELIVERY OR WINE ORDERS call 021 492 4100, fax 086 674 3966, or email info@wineofthemonth.co.za. WRITE TO THE EDITOR: Email us on cheers@wineofthemonth.co.za or write to: The Chairman, Connoisseur, P.O. Box 30, Constantia 7848. Send press releases via email to alison@wineofthemonth.co.za. All contributions are edited for space and style. FACEBOOK: @wineofthemonthsa TWITTER: @WotMSA INSTAGRAM: @wineofthemonth
A division of Novus Holdings South African Connoisseur is published every alternate month by Converge (Pty) Ltd, Capricorn Boulevard South, Capricorn Business Park, Muizenberg, Cape Town, 7945. © Copyright 2020. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. Liability. While every care is taken in the preparation of this magazine, the publishers cannot be held responsible for the accuracy of the information herein, or any consequence arising from it. The views and opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of Converge (Pty) Ltd, the publication or the publisher.
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Contents 06 WHAT’S ON—EVENTS IN AND AROUND SA 08 WINE & DINE—WHAT’S NEW IN FOOD AND DRINK 10 THE LATEST PANEL TASTINGS BY IRINA VON HOLDT 16 5 POOLSIDE RECIPES FOR SUMMER 21 MALU LAMBERT: WHY YOU SHOULD TAKE SAUVIGNON BLANC SERIOUSLY
10 20 21
PLANES, TRAINS AND AUTOMOBILES IN THE WINELANDS 26 THE GREAT FESTIVE DRINKS GUIDE 28 WHAT WINE GOES WITH CHRISTMAS MINCE PIE? 31 YOUR WINE QUESTIONS ANSWERED 32 CONNOISSEUR’S CHOICE—A SELECTION OF TOP WINES TO TRY 36 DAVE BIGGS ON HOW YOUR BRAIN CAN BE SUCH A TEASE 24
ON THE COVER, ZARDETTO
A WINE PAIRING THAT TAKES THE CAKE! Book your wine and cake pairing at Stellenrust Wines: +27(0) 21 880 2283 www.stellenrust.co.za info@stellenrust.co.za
Not for sale to persons under the age of 18
SUM M E RT I M E SIZZLE Hooray, summer is finally here! Holidays are around the corner and for most it means a time for some much-needed R&R. It’s also the best time to get outside and soak up everything the good weather has to offer. With promises of a sizzling South African summer, make sure you spend as much time as you can in a cozzie. Throughout this issue we bring the festive feel with fun events, fine wines and Christmas cheer. Best you grab a glass of the good stuff and get comfy on your sun lounger before we dive in, eh? To kick off, Malu Lambert and friends taste a few SAUVIGNON BLANC greats. While Chenin and Chardonnay often steal the fine wine limelight, Malu says it’s high time we take South African Sauvignon Blanc seriously. Read why on p.21. From serious Sauvs to festive fizz, we cover all you need for your Christmas drinks menu in our GREAT FESTIVE DRINKS GUIDE on p.26. You’ll find the wines to serve from early morning brunch through to midnight snacks. From festive tipples to ALFRESCO FEASTS, on p.16 we share five delicious recipes that were destined to be served on your patio or by the pool. Try your hand at Spicy Cauliflower Tacos, Chicken Caprese Salad, Eton Mess and more (p.16). From the poolside to topside, on p.24 we head to the winelands where you might have thought nothing beats a leisurely stroll through the vineyards, but we show you how you can now EXPLORE THE WINELANDS by e-bike, hot air balloon or chopper. Take your pick on p.24. There’s more, plus, of course, all you want to know on the latest and greatest in wine. Wishing you a wonderful, joyful festive season and a happy New Year!
CHAIRMAN OF WINE-OFTHE-MONTH CLUB 3
FRANSCHHOEK CAP CLASSIQUE & C H A M PA G N E F E S T I VA L , 2 - 3 DECEMBER
Set against the backdrop of the picturesque Franschhoek valley, this is the social event of the season. With over 20 local producers, the festival showcases the valley’s best Cap Classiques over two full days. The historic Franschhoek Huguenot Monument will come alive with SA’s iconic rock band, Watershed and a vibrant atmosphere second to none. R350-R450pp. Book tickets at www.webtickets.co.za.
WHAT’S ON Festival and Events Around SA
STELLENBOSCH STREET SOIRÉES, N O W- M A R C H 2 0 2 4
Stellenbosch’s ultimate pop-up series of food, wine and live music on Drostdy Street is set to take place on specific days from November through to March. “With the hours of each Soirée limited to between 6pm - 8pm they’re ideal for enjoying pre-dinner drinks with friends ahead of a meal at one of Stellenbosch’s many fine restaurants,” says festival organiser Elmarie Rabe. R190pp. For more information, email info@ wineroute.co.za.
C H R I S T M A S W R E AT H M A K I N G W O R K S H O P AT B O S M A N H E R M A N U S , 13 DECEMBER
Immerse yourself in the natural charm of the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley as the team helps you forage and create a one-of-a-kind Christmas wreath. After crafting your masterpiece, relax over a light lunch produced from locally sourced ingredients while soaking up the vineyard views and towering mountain peaks at Bosman Hermanus. R795pp. Book tickets at Quicket. 6
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Festivals and Events Around SA | WHAT’S ON
D E L H E I M H A RV E S T F E S T I VA L , 2 7 - 2 8 J A N UA RY
It’s time to get your hands and feet dirty at one of Stellenbosch’s most popular wineries–Delheim–during harvest time. After stomping the grapes, guests can enjoy a scenic tractor drive through the farm and see the estate’s commitment to sustainable wine-farming. Visitors can then relax at the Delheim Restaurant, enjoying an al fresco experience of wine farm hospitality at its finest. Tickets are R850pp and R350 for children under 12 years. Limited cellar-tours will also be available. www.delheim.com
L AV E N D E R & E S S E N T I A L O I L S AT B A B Y L O N S T O R E N , 13 DECEMBER
Harness the abundance of Babylonstoren’s fragrant lavender fields in this essential oils masterclass. Pack your hat and a pair of walking shoes as you’ll be exploring beyond the garden to harvest aromatics and other indigenous herbs for their fragrances. From there, guests will be taken to the Scented Room to see the steam-distilling process that captures the natural essence of the product. Coffee is served upon arrival and lunch in the Tasting Room is included. R900pp. www.babylonstoren.com
A P E R O L S P R I T Z J O I N T H E J OY F E S TA C P T, 9 D E C E M B E R
Aperol is bringing the energy and art of aperitivo to Cape Town with an immersive experience. Enjoy a slice of Italian culture at Meerendal Wine Estate this December. The Cape Town edition of Join the Joy features Digital Sangoma, Athi Maq, Fizz & Shai-A, Miss Shelly, Goodluck, Jimmy Nevis and Dwson. R150pp. Book tickets at Quicket.
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WINE & DINE | What’s New
WINE & DINE What’s New in Food and Wine
EMBROIDERED ART
Spier Arts Trust is proud to present the upcoming exhibition, titled IN SEARCH OF THE BIRDS OF THE SEA. It’s a collaboration between fine artists and embroiderers to co-create embroidered tapestries. The exhibition runs until 31 January 2024 at Spier’s Old Wine Cellar. With such a thriving local artistic community and rich cultural heritage, Spier is proud to house one of the largest contemporary art collections in the country. www.spier.co.za
FRIDAY NIGHT LIGHTS
Get ready for an amazing lineup of food stalls, live music and good times every Friday from now until April 2024 at BOSCHENDAL’S FRIDAY NIGHT MARKETS. Enjoy farm-filled fun from 5pm-9pm at The Werf Area and free entrance. For more information email
reservations@boschendal.co.za or call 021 870 427.
DANCE AMONG THE VINES
This summer season, join Durbanville Hills for a silent disco at the SUNSET VINEYARD EXPERIENCE. Taking place up until April 2024, this fun and familyfriendly experience features three DJs playing 3 different genres on 3 channels—so you set the soundtrack to your night. Olive Grove Bistro will be serving wine, beer, cocktails and a range of light meals too. Adults are R175 and under 18s are R95 at Quicket. www.quicket.co.za 8
VIN DE CONSTANCE UNCOVERED
‘‘The Constantia Valley is far more than the cradle of wine culture in South Africa, just as Klein Constantia is not merely the present embodiment of a long-forgotten estate, or Vin de Constance the modern incarnation of a wine of legend.’ So writes Michael Fridjhon in his foreword to this beautiful book which tells the dramatic and inspiring story of KLEIN CONSTANTIA through its people, vineyards and wines—most notably Vin de Constance, truly a modern icon in the world of fine wine. Co-authored by Joanne Gibson and our very own Wine-of-the-Month Club panel member and resident writer Malu Lambert. Together, they take readers on a remarkable journey of discovery in a hardback publication that has been beautifully designed, illustrated and printed. ‘We are proud of this book which is a fitting tribute to the extraordinary people who have been part of Klein Constantia’s history,’ says Klein Constantia owner Charles Harman. Get your copy of Klein Constantia The Home of Vin de Constance at www.kleinconstantia.com
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
What’s New | WINE & DINE
ANNABELLE SHIRAZ: A COLLABORATION FOR A CAUSE
Media personality and entrepreneur Elana Afrika-Bredenkamp has partnered with De Grendel Wine Estate to fund underprivileged sommelier training. “This collaboration allows us to contribute to the growth of the wine community while producing wines that tell a story of dedication and craftsmanship,” says Charles Hopkins, cellar master at De Grendel. A portion of the sales of The Annabelle Shiraz will go to the ELANA AFRIKA-BREDENKAMP & DE GRENDEL SOMMELIER BURSARY, an initiative aimed at providing opportunities for aspiring sommeliers from underprivileged backgrounds. Named after her youngest daughter, The Annabelle Shiraz will be sold exclusively at De Grendel and online at www.degrendel.co.za.
SAY HELLO TO UBUNTU OLIVE OIL
Founded by South African entrepreneur Loyiso Manga, Ubuntu Olive Oil is an award-winning olive oil and the first established COMMERCIALLY BLACK-OWNED OLIVE OIL in South Africa. “I was inspired by the health benefits of extra-virgin olive oil and the fact that it was a niche market with no black players in it. Most importantly, we wanted to be proof of concept that the spirit of ubuntu is alive in South Africans,” says Loyiso. Produced and manufactured in the Western Cape, Ubuntu Olive Oil is available at www.ubuntuevoo.com.
A NEW JEWEL IN THE CROWN
After a top-to-toe refurbishment, Delaire Graff’s brand-new Hōseki replaces the long-standing multi-award-winning Indochine Restaurant. HŌSEKI (meaning jewel in Japanese) occupies the same light-filled space overlooking the Stellenbosch winelands. Boasting an elegant Japanese dining experience, with fresh contemporary flavours, the menu will change with the seasons, with herbs and vegetables sourced from the estate’s greenhouse and vegetable garden. This new culinary adventure headed up by chef Virgil Kahn promises the same expertise, creativity and finesse that wowed diners at Indochine since it first opened in 2010, but with a brandnew look, flavour and feel. Contact 021 885 8160 or email restaurant.
bookings@delaire.co.za
WINE | Panel Report
Taking
STOCK As the year comes to a close we report on our latest tastings, chosen specially for summer sipping BY IRINA VON HOLDT CWM
T
he end of the year is always a fine time to take stock, not only of ourselves and the whole world, but of matters more immediate and tangible, for us wine lovers that means our wines and cellars, however big or small. This year we learned that white blends are simply getting better. We need to choose Chenin more carefully. Chardonnay has become super friendly. And it’s time to move on from Sauvignon Blanc. For the reds, Cabernet is regaining its crown. Shiraz is always a safe refuge. And Pinotage comes in many guises, even in a summer dress. Then there’s a pushy new bunch that needs some nosing around (pun intended) wines like Verdelho, Vermentino, Nero d’Avola, Marsanne and Roussanne, to name a few. So let’s drink a toast to the new year and all the exciting wine possibilities that we can expect. Bring on the bubbles.
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BUBBLES ALL THE WAY
Here’s the ultimate feel-good wine. If ever there’s a wine to put a spring into your step and a smile on your face, it’s a sparkler. Whether a brisk burst of bubbles or a gentler, more caressing mousse, the taste and feel is unique and always special. First, some general news. The term Méthode Cap Classique (MCC) is being phased out. Frankly it never seemed right— saying Méthode Cap Classique is clumsy, even in French, and there’s nothing unique about the method anyway. It is made by the traditional Champagne method, but of course we are not allowed to use the word “champagne”. The simpler designation is more to the point. Cap Classique is unique, denoting its origin, and it’s cleaner and neater. All the old MCC packaging, especially labels, is being phased out over a couple of years. So get with it, it’s now classy Cap Classique.
’
Here’s the ultimate feel-good wine. If ever
there’s a wine to put a spring into your step and a smile on your face it’s a sparkler
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Panel Report | WINE
Further, regulations for ageing on the lees previously required a minimum of nine months, but this has been raised to twelve months, with quality producers often opting for three years and more. Extra time on the lees adds way more complexity and depth of flavour to the wine. South African winemakers are very expert at making bubblies using the Champagne method. They’ve built up an impressive tradition of fine sparklers over
the more than 50 years since Frans Malan made his first bottle-fermented bubbly, Kaapse Vonkel, at Simonsig Estate. In the absence of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir which had yet to arrive in SA, he used trusty Chenin. Many believe that our Cap Classiques are the best bubbles outside of Champagne. The trouble is it’s a fast-growing market, increasing by about 12% per annum. Suddenly, a lot of ambitious newbie bubbly winemakers with no experience
are climbing in. The wines are tricky to make and any mistakes, however small, get amplified during the process, and it shows. To turn out a fine Cap Classique takes very careful attention to detail and also the expertise built up over many vintages. In Champagne, traditionally the wines are made using only three varieties: Chardonnay and the two black grapes Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Along the Loire river in France, Chenin blanc is used for some fine, bottle-fermented versions.
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WINE | Panel Report
TASTED BY THE PANEL MCC
WINE OF THE MONTH Waverley Hills MCC Brut 2019
Right now in the Cape there are some inventive versions made from Cinsaut, Sauvignon Blanc, Grenache and Cabernet. Talking of these other versions, Cinsaut specifically, Christine says, “While not following the traditional route, this is still an OK wine.” Aside from that comment, the wines made from the unusual varieties score poorly, confirming the need to use traditional varieties. But who knows? Maybe some brave winemaker will crack the code for success and set a new trend. “I loved the Chenins, they are exquisite and elegant,” Christine goes on. Yes, well it is a traditional variety, not from Champagne, but Loire, and now very South African, too. Here we must mention the arrival in South Africa of Pinot Meunier, last of the classic Champagne trio. Simonsig Estate, again in the lead, has included it in their blends from 2021, but it is hard to come to any conclusions about the contribution this variety is making with only five wines having a dash of the variety. Respected
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houses in Champagne, Krug comes to mind, regard it as important, but we still need to see what happens here. We look first at rosé styles, those sexy pinks that seduce us so easily with their gorgeous colour and entice us to take a sip, then another, and another… Clive knocks that idea on the head: “Nothing here, completely avoidable.” Claude disagrees: “Found some very nice wines, even a couple of Reserves.” Clive is undeterred: “Quaffers, crowd pleasers.” “It’s another case of where the public have their say, and they like them like this,” says Clive pointedly. “Personally, I like a more serious rosé,” says Irina. “Something with a bit of weight and depth from the black grapes. These were nice, but fun and frivolous>” We then look at the group of Blancs de Blanc and run into problems. This was the star category last year, but not so this time. Clive is quick, again: “The standard is high here, so I don’t want weird flavours–– soapiness, foaminess, polish, oxidation. Lots
ALSO LIKED Nitida The Matriarch 2021 Eikendal Methode Cap Classique 2020 Weltevrede Philip Jonker Brut Entheos Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel Brut 2021 L'Ormarins Blanc de Blancs 2018 Simonsig Cuvee Royale 2017 Boschendal Brut Muratie Lady Alice MCC 2018 Montpellier MCC Pinot Noir 2017 Laborie Cap Classique Blanc de Blanc 2018 Darling Cellars Old Bush Vines Blanc de Blanc Brut 2018 L'Ormarins Brut Rosé Vintage 2016 Montpellier MCC Chardonnay 2017 Darling Cellars Brut Blanc de Blanc 2020 L'Ormarins Private Cuvee 2015 Van Hunks Cap Classique Brut Rosé 2021 Villiera Tradition Brut Rosé Perdeberg The Vineyard Collection Pinot Noir Rosé 2020 Allée Bleue MCC Brut 2020 Marklew MCC Brut 2019 Klein Roosboom My Way Brut Nature MCC 2019 Kruger Family Reserve Marguerite MCC Brut 2019 Boschendal Grand Cuvee Brut 2016 Kay & Monty MCC Blanc de Blancs 2017 Kleine Zalze Brut Rosé MCC Christiena Cap Classique Brut Rosé Blue Bird Cap Classique MJV Rosé Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel Brut Rosé 2021 Klein Roosboom Marné Brut MCC L'Ormarins Brut Classique Villiera Monro Brut 2016 John B Brut Chardonnay Sparkling Wine 2022 Vondeling Little Sparkle Neethlingshof Cap Classique Brut Rosé Boschendal Brut Rosé Allée Bleue MCC Brut Rosé 2020 Klein Roosboom My Way Rosé MCC 2019 Pieter Ferreira Rosé Pinot Noir Extra Brut 2016 Villiera Tradition Brut Journey's End MCC Brut Reserve Ken Forrester Sparklehorse 2020 Cavalli Capriole 2020 Boland Cellar MCC Chenin Blanc 2017 Noble Hill Blanc de Blancs 2019 De Wetshof Cap Classique Blanc de Blancs 2021 Darling Cellars Brut Rosé 2020 L'Ormarins Brut Rosé Vintage 2018 Laborie Cap Classique Brut Charles Fox Reserve Gold
Neetlingshof Cap Classique Brut Grand Vin de Stellenbosch MCC Brut 2021 Domaine des Dieux Brut Cap Classique 2019 Kleine Zalze Cape Nectar Rosé MCC Slanghoek Vin Doux L'Ormarins Brut Classique Rosé Hoopenburg Integer Brut Rosé 2020 Tierhoek Methode Cap Classique Christiena Cap Classique Brut Koelenbosch Chardonnay MCC 2022 Arendskloof Pinot Noir MCC 2021 Perdeberg The Vineyard Collection Cap Classique 2020 KWV Sparkling Cuvee Brut Hoopenburg Integer Chardonnay MCC 2021 Stellenbosch Hills Sense of Place Anna Christina MCC 2020 Villiera Brut Natural 2019 Koelenhof Sauvignon Blanc Vin-Sec 2023 Koelenhof Pinotage Rosé Vin-Sec 2023 Villiera Pearls of Nectar Bottega Fragolino Rosso Sparkling Wine
Vino Spumante di Qualità del tipo Aromatico Petalo Slanghoek Cuvee Brut The Vale Cinsault Rosé Brut Bottega Millesimato Extra Dry Sparkling Wine 2022 Lomond MCC Non Vintage Rosé Lomond MCC Non Vintage Brut Stellenrust MCC Hoopenburg Blanc de noir Sparkling Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel Satin Nectar 2022 Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel Satin Nectar Rosé 2022 Bottega Vino Del Amore Moscato Sparkling Wine John B Brut Rosé Sparkling Wine 2023 Blaauwklippen Brut Cap Classique 2020 Darling Cellars Demi-Sec Nectar 2020 Darling Cellars De-Alcoholised Sparkling Rosé The Vale Sauvignon Blanc Brut Domaine des Dieux Demi Sec Van Hunks Cap Classique Brut 2021 Koelenbosch Pinotage Rosé MCC 2022 Secco Sparkling Wine 2023
of guys are mucking around and trying all sorts of weird stuff and it shows.” “Among these there is a problem with dark colour and oxidation, a pity. And another thing, there are too many fruity wines, they should smell of yeast, brioche, nuts, not damn apples or perfumy pears,” from Irina. “These must be fermented nice and cold and slowly to get that fine mousse,” says Clive helpfully. The main strength on the day is the vintage white CC’s, made with thought and care, again the top-scoring wines made by cellars with long experience of Cap Classique. Fresh and poised with perfect balance and busy bubbles, good depth and character, this is what fine bubbly is all about. A small group of only six wines that
MEET THE PANEL Our panel (of 9 independent wine experts) blind tastes over 3000 wines a year to make sure you receive the very best (blind wine tasting ensures no judge is influenced by a label or the beauty of a wine farm or warmth of the host). This way, we focus only on what’s most important “what you taste in the glass”.
From left to right: Christine Rudman, Claude Felbert, Clive Torr, Gregory Mutambe, Irina von Holdt, Margaret Fundira, Winnie Bowman, Colin Collard and Malu Lambert
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had spent some time in oak for the first fermentation show their class. Of these, four feature in the top ten with the overall top-scoring wine being oaked. Not a bad haul for only six wines. Christine sums up, “Oak adds another dimension.” Until relatively recently if you liked Cap Classique it had to be a Brut (dry), which left those with a sweeter tooth out in the cold. Not so any more, we saw a solid entry of sweeter Cap Classique wines, called Nectar. Purists will cry, “Foul!”, but it’s a useful addition to the style for those who like their wines sweeter, but also for food, particularly desserts. Think of apple tart, or its fancy relative, tarte Tatin, or Christmas pudding, or baklava, or… These wines were well made with silky smooth texture, refreshing bubbles, great follow through—they left us with not even a fleeting thought of second-best. Even Clive was less critical. “These were OK. It’s all a question of balancing acidity and the sugar.” But that’s not the end of the story, because this is where we get a crossover.
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The bubbly category is not only about Cap Classique, but also another less stellar group of wines—plain sparkling wines. Made fizzy not by fermentation in the bottle but by carbonation, like Pepsi or Fanta, but a more refined version that these days is able to produce millions of tiny bubbles. The tell-tale way to distinguish between Cap Classique and sparkling wine is by the bubbles. Carbonation produces a more fizzy, foamy bubble that subsides more easily. If this does not fuss you and Cap Classique is out of reach, grab a bottle of sparkling and you will not be disappointed. Clive again (he just can’t leave them alone—twenty years ago he made them at Villiera), “The addition of muscat is attractive.” Oh yes, that subtle floral whiff of muscat beckons from the glass, then the delicate sweetness is another little treat. Christine joins in, “There’s a place for these, they are delightful and fun with a lovely fruitiness.” We have now come full circle because plain sparkling wines are not only made sweet, but also dry and are perfect for casual tippling. The cost of a bottle of Cap Classique each week in summer may be out of reach, but not so plain sparkling wine. They’re good. Keep your fridge stocked.
UNUSUAL REDS
From Christmas celebrations and fun, to a totally different category. Unusual Reds is a challenging category and needs some thoughtful exploration. The end of the year holidays give us time to do just that. At each tasting of unusual reds the panel always mentions how impressive Cabernet Franc is. The little brother, or maybe cousin to big brother Cabernet Sauvignon, shows distinct Cab aromas and flavours, but nicely fleshed out and graceful. Most importantly, it comes with very approachable tannins. What’s not to like? Well, it needs to be treated with respect
UNUSUAL REDS
WINE OF THE MONTH Anthonij Rupert Petit Verdot 2016 ALSO LIKED Lozarn Cabernet Franc 2022 Paul Wallace Black Dog Malbec 2019 Gentis The Phoenix 2022 Great Heart Franschhoek Cabernet Franc 2021 WINE LISTED Idiom Rosso Sangiovese 2019 Brampton Cinsault 2022 Waverley Hills Marselan 2020 Raka Sangiovese 2021 Waverley Hills Grenache Noir 2018 Swanepoel Grenache Noir 2021 Bemind Cinsault 2022 Terra del Capo Sangiovese 2021 Piekenierskloof Grenache Noir 2021 Kruger Old Vines Grenache Noir 2018 Idiom Zinfandel 2018 Stellenrust Grenache Noir 2020 The Pope's New Crib Grenache Noir 2022 Paul Wallace Braveheart Pinot Noir 2020
PINOTAGE
WINE OF THE MONTH KWV Cathedral Cellars Pinotage 2020 ALSO LIKED KWV The Mentors Pinotage 2020 Marklew Cape Flora Pinotage 2022 The Earth Beneath Our Feet Pinotage 2016 Three Peaks Pinotage 2022 WINES LISTED Clos Malverne Le Café Pinotage 2021 Stellenrust Cornerstone Pinotage 2021 Stellenrust Pinotage 2022 Waverley Hills Pinotage 2019 Totus LTD Release Coffee Pinotage 2020 Bellingham Homestead Pinotage 2020 Top Five Pinotage 2020 Remhoogte Vantage Pinotage 2020 Koelenhof Pinotage 2021 Allèe Bleue Pinotage 2022 Rascillion With Love from the Cape Collection Kaapzicht Skraalhans Pinotage 2022 Rhino Run Organic Pinotage 2023 Cape of Good Hope Basson Pinotage 2018 Van Loveren African Java Pinotage 2023
and carefully nurtured through fermentation and ageing in oak to produce a fine wine, and they are almost all good. So go and find one or two, or even more and you will not be disappointed. Grenache Noir—the stalwart and savoury partner of fine wines from the Mediterranean—is often in partnership with Shiraz. Wine makers were begging for it for blending, now it’s here and growing deeper into Cape soil each year. Still a bit young to seriously evaluate, but more and more examples are appearing. Lighter than we expected, but is that because of young vines, or is this really a lighter red? “Grenache Noir—hip and happening, but a lighter red, thin-skinned like Cinsaut,” says Clive. “Young people like these, but when I want a red wine I want it full-bodied.”
Greg, the sommelier, picks up Cinsaut, “Cinsaut, yes, I’m doing a lot of tastings with this, it’s very versatile.” Claude: “There was a time when people would choose Cinsaut above everything else. Now I’m not sure they’re still around.” “Love the new Cinsaut,” says Irina. “It’s fragrant, engaging and fun, and not serious.” Clive adds, “That’s the trouble with thinskinned grapes.” Then Christine chimes in with, “I think the Sangiovese put on a good show.” “You love Sangiovese, someone just has to say Sangiovese and you light up, Christine,” says Irina. “I think you like Italians!” Definitely, who doesn’t?
SUMMER-STYLE PINOTAGE
Not a separate category for our tastings, but
a distinct group of delicious fruity wines. Pinotage has morphed into many things— delightful rosé, light-weight easy drinking reds, then through the whole spectrum of richness to the darkest, most hearty of all reds. It can even be made without oak and still come up smiling. The built-in fruitiness of the variety gives it a versatility that other reds simply do not have. “When it’s smooth and juicy it’s great,” says Christine. Clive, “I like them when they’re savoury.” Irina, “I like that burst of red berry fruit and the lower alcohols make these the perfect summer reds.” So when next you pack a picnic basket, tuck in one of the new fruity Pinotages and don’t forget to chill beforehand.
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RECIPES | Easy Al Fresco
AL FRESCO HOLIDAY RECIPES By Ilse van der Merwe
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Easy Al Fresco | RECIPES
BABY MARROW, FETA AND MINT FRITTERS
SERVES 4 AS A SNACK
These simple, savoury fritters are one of those anytime-of-the-day snacks. I can easily have them for breakfast topped with chunky cottage cheese and honey, but I’ll also serve them as a light lunch topped with a tomato salad and rocket, or as a fireside snack served with a creamy dip. INGREDIENTS 350g baby marrows, coarsely grated 100g (1½ rounds) Feta, crumbled 70g (½ cup) white bread wheat flour or cake wheat flour 5ml (1 tsp) baking powder 125ml (½ cup) finely grated Parmesan 2 extra-large eggs a handful fresh mint, finely chopped salt and pepper, to taste 30ml (2 tbsp) extra virgin olive oil METHOD 1. Place the grated baby marrows on a clean tea towel, then place two layers of kitchen paper on top and gently press to absorb any excess moisture. 2. Transfer the blotted baby marrows to a mixing bowl along with the crumbled feta, flour, baking powder, parmesan, eggs and mint. Season with salt and pepper, then mix well using a wooden spoon. 3. Heat the oil in a pan, then spoon heaped tablespoons of the mixture into the pan, leaving some space in-between and flattening them gently with a spatula. Fry on both sides until golden, puffed up and fully cooked, then remove from the pan and serve warm (see serving suggestions above). You can also make these with a 50:50 mixture of grated baby marrow and carrot. SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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RECIPES | Easy Al Fresco
SPICY CAULIFLOWER TACOS WITH GUACAMOLE, TOMATO AND CORIANDER
SERVES 6 AS A LIGHT MEAL
INGREDIENTS 5ml (1 tsp) smoked paprika 5ml (1 tsp) curry powder 5ml (1 tsp) ground cumin 2.5ml (½ tsp) chilli powder (optional) 5ml (1 tsp) salt freshly ground black pepper, to taste 60ml (¼ cup) vegetable oil 1 medium head cauliflower, sliced into small florets 6–12 corn tortillas 3 cups shredded lettuce 1–2 large tomatoes, diced 1 freshly smashed avocado 250ml (1 cup) sour cream a handful chopped coriander METHOD 1. In a bowl, combine the spices, salt and a grinding of pepper, then stir to mix and set aside. 2. Heat the oil in a pan and fry the florets over medium-high heat until golden brown, working in batches. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper. Transfer to a bowl and season generously on all sides with the spice mix. 3. To serve, toast the tortillas briefly over medium heat (optional), then fill with lettuce, tomatoes, guacamole, fried cauliflower, some sour cream and fresh coriander. Garnish as desired. 1 8
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
Easy Al Fresco | RECIPES
SMASHED GRILLED CHICKEN CAPRESE
SERVES 4
If it was up to me, I’d eat caprese salad every day – that classic Italian combo of milky fior di latte (fresh cow’s milk Mozzarella cheese), ripe tomatoes and punchy basil that’s simple perfection. For those who prefer their lunches or dinners a little meatier, this double-protein, low-carb version will tick all the boxes. INGREDIENTS 4 skinless chicken breasts ± 45ml (3 tbsp) extra virgin olive oil, plus extra salt and pepper, to taste 3 large or 4 medium ripe tomatoes, sliced 250–300g fior di latte or Buffalo Mozzarella 60ml (¼ cup) basil pesto a handful fresh basil, for serving (optional) METHOD 1. Place the chicken breasts between sheets of clingfilm and pound with a meat hammer or rolling pin to a thickness of about 7 mm. 2. Heat the oil in a non-stick pan over medium heat, then fry the pounded chicken on both sides until golden and just cooked. Season with salt and pepper. 3. Remove from the heat and arrange on a plate or platter with sliced tomatoes and sliced mozzarella. Drizzle all over with pesto and scatter with fresh basil (if using), then serve immediately. To take storebought pesto to a drizzle-consistency, stir in some extra virgin olive oil.
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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RECIPES | Easy Al Fresco
TROPICAL ETON MESS
SERVES 4–6
When dining outdoors casually, no-one wants to make a fussy, time-consuming dessert. Store-bought meringues, fresh fruit and cream are always a good idea – it’s simple and mostly gluten free. When passion fruit isn’t in season, the canned pulp can be readily found all year round in most supermarkets. Change up the fresh fruit according to the season and what you love, set up a self-help station and let everyone assemble their own. INGREDIENTS 1–2 ripe mangoes, peeled and sliced 3–4 ripe kiwi fruit, peeled and sliced 12–15 Cape gooseberries 16–24 mini vanilla meringues (store-bought) ± 230g (¾ cup) passion fruit pulp, fresh or canned 250ml (1 cup) fresh cream, chilled a few fresh limes (optional) METHOD 1. Prepare a self-help dessert station: Place serving bowls or glasses with spoons on a table, put the meringues in a serving bowl and the fruit in separate bowls, with serving spoons. 2. When you’re ready to serve, use a manual balloon whisk (or electric hand whisk) to softly whip the cream in a mixing bowl to soft peaks, then place it alongside the fruit and meringues, along with a few limes and a fine grater. 3. To assemble, guests can spoon layers of (crushed, if they like) meringue, sliced fruit, whipped cream and passion fruit pulp into their bowls, topping it with freshly grated lime rind (if using).
In Easy Al Fresco, Ilse van der Merwe offers a simple and inspiring guide for fabulous, easy and scrumptious dishes that can all be prepared with a limited range of basic utensils, and a fire or kettle braai. As Ilse says, this should be the only book you pack for your next trail hike, fishing weekend, game reserve trip or seaside holiday. From breads, spreads, appetisers, salads and sandwiches, through to mains and desserts, Ilse has you covered. 2 0
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
ULTIMATE CLASSIC BEEF BURGERS
SERVES 4
INGREDIENTS 30–45ml (2–3 tbsp) olive oil, plus extra 2 large onions, halved and thinly sliced 60ml (¼ cup) balsamic vinegar 30ml (2 tbsp) dark brown sugar salt and pepper, to taste 125ml (½ cup) mayonnaise 30ml (2 tbsp) braai marinade 10ml (2 tsp) smoked paprika 4 large sesame burger buns butter, for spreading 4 × 150–200 g quality beef burger patties 4 large slices mature cheddar or gouda 4–8 crunchy lettuce leaves, shredded 1–2 ripe tomatoes, thinly sliced a few pickled gherkins, thinly sliced METHOD 1. First make the balsamic caramelised onions. Heat the oil in a large pot over medium heat, then add the onions, frying and stirring for at least 15 min, until the onions become very soft and golden and a light brown stickiness starts to form at the bottom of the pot. Turn up the heat, add the vinegar and sugar, stirring to loosen the sticky bits at the bottom. Season with salt and pepper, then continue to cook until the liquid has almost completely reduced. Remove from the heat and leave to cool. 2. For the burger mayo, mix the mayonnaise, braai marinade or barbecue sauce and smoked paprika together. Set aside. 3. Slice the buns open, butter the cut sides and give them a light toast in a pan or over medium-hot coals. Set aside. 4. Grill the patties over hot coals (or fry with some oil in a pan), basting with more braai marinade as you grill or fry. When almost done, place the cheese slices on top and leave to melt in the residual heat for a minute, then remove them from the grill or pan. 5. Spread the bottom halves of the buns with some mayo mix, then top with lettuce, tomato, cheese-topped patties, a generous helping of onions and gherkins. Replace the top halves of the buns and serve at once.
Sauvignon Blanc | FEATURE
ON THE TIGHTROPE OF
FINE
Sauvignon Blanc may be South Africa’s top selling wine, both locally as well as for export, but in terms of fine wine appeal Chenin and Chardonnay easily trump it in reputation. Read why Malu Lambert says South African Sauvignon can be serious…
M
ost wine is good. Modernday winemaking techniques ensure the intention of the producer is adequately realised— whether it is a commercial bottling intended for quaffing, or a higher quality variant deserving a little more contemplation. Fine wine however is a vanishingly small part of the equation, one up to much debate. What makes a wine fine? In my view it is the absence of cynicism; the bravery to express site
and vintage without having to nip and tuck too much in the cellar—and yes a consistently excellent track record to go along with it. Fine wines give you pause. You should no longer be thinking of the quotidian aspects of how it got into your glass, rather it should transport you, make you think, challenge or delight you. Fine wine demands an emotional response. Culture Wine Bar has built an altar
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to such wines in its sprawling Cape Town venue. We pass chalkboards scribbled with famous names, crystal glasses swirl their vinous contents. We go further up creaking wooden stairs, the summer sun slicing in after us. Moving through the heat of the day, the thought of the cold Sauvignon Blanc awaiting is appealing. Even more so when we have been promised some of the world’s greats, such as Cheval Blanc and Daguenau.
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The thought of the cold Sauvignon Blanc awaiting is appealing SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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FEATURE | Sauvignon Blanc
The premise: a blind benchmark tasting of some of South Africa’s finest savvy versus international counterparts: 16 wines in total divided into four flights of four with each one containing a famous benchmark. “How successful can Sauvignon Blanc be at the top end of the market?” This was posited by Andrew Mellish, the convener of the tasting. “Can it compete with Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc?” Mellish makes the wine at his family’s farm in Durbanville. Also here are Sauvignon champions Matthew Day of Klein Constantia, Andri Hanekom of Bloemendal, and Thys Louw of Diemersdal. The latter who was kind enough to dig the international wines out of his personal cellar. Mellish Family Vineyards is a relatively new concern with 35-hectares of vineyards going into the ground in the early 2000s. The farm Welbeloond has a much longer
history, originally used as an outpost by Jan Van Riebeeck in the late 1600s. The Cape Dutch manor house and outbuildings, that are still on the farm today, were originally established in 1785. The Mellish family have farmed grain, livestock and dairy here since 1918, first leasing the land, then purchasing it in 1934. “Sauvignon Blanc is the most commercially successful variety in South Africa because it makes such refreshingly crisp and aromatic wines at affordable price points,” Mellish says. “This makes sense in a warm climate country like ours. Most punters are looking for uncomplicated, quaffable wines. However when it comes to fine white wine Sauvignon doesn’t receive the same praise as Chardonnay and Chenin. “We want to change the mindset around fine Sauvignon and show how the best wines can reach the same level of quality as the other noble varieties. By working together we can learn from each other and
make bigger strides in quality quicker. The best of our wines can already compete with the most famous examples from the Loire, Bordeaux and Austria.” The flights were organised according to style and vintage. “Some wines are based around powerful aromatics while others are more subtle and nuanced but equal in quality. Some wines were riper with higher alcohol and more new oak. I wanted to give each wine the best chance to shine.” As we swirled, scored and debated through the flights the sentiment rose that the South African examples more than matched the international counterparts in terms of quality. Reputation is the issue. “The South African style is growing up,” adds Matt Day to the conversation, who makes a number of fine examples of the grape. “We’re starting to rather use the Old World as a benchmark, rather than say the fruit bombs from New Zealand. South Africa is making world-class Sauvignons that can compete with the best of the best,
Wine-of-the-Month's Top Picks:
Iona Elgin Highlands Wild-ferment Sauv Blanc 2022 Neil Ellis West Coast Sauvignon Blanc 2023 Daschbosch Sauvignon Blanc 2021 Nitida Golden-orb Sauvignon Blanc 2020 Constantia-royale Don's Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2020 Reyneke Reserve White 2020
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SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
Sauvignon Blanc | FEATURE
and we have seen this today.” If the power is in brands and regions why not just take the descriptor ‘Sauvignon Blanc’ off the label, someone asked. Making the point of rather just making ‘a great white wine’. ‘Sauvignon Blanc’ as a brand has become very powerful, but in the wrong way,” laments Day. “This reputation is pushing more serious wine drinkers away from it.” Because of this he points out Sauvignon has hit its cap in terms of price and scoring potential. “It’s much easier to get away with charging a higher price for say a Chenin, and critics are likely to score it higher too. Potentially removing ‘Sauvignon Blanc’ from the label can have its downside too though. “You may be able to be judged as a white wine and hence break the pricing and score stigma, but you are less likely to sell your wine.” “The commercial success of Sauvignon has created a pigeon hole stylistically,” agrees Mellish. “In South Africa the consumer has an expectation of what it should taste like and what they are prepared to pay for it. Finer wines are more expensive to make and taste very different compared to the more
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commercial versions.” At the end of the tasting scores and wines were revealed. The overwhelming take out was that the wines that had more detail, texture and complexity performed better than the wines with intense thiols and pyrazine aromatics generally associated with the grape. The successful wines had components such as barrel fermentation, skin contact, lees, wild yeast and malolactic conversion. Both Mellish and Day have taken alternative approaches to their wines they are showing today. The Mellish Family Vineyards Blanc Fumé 2021 owes its textural and un-Sauvignon Blanc like aromatics to low yields and less vigorous canopies, which allows them phenolic ripeness at lower sugar levels. Hand-harvested fruit, 80 percent whole bunch is pressed and spontaneously fermented on the skins—all of this going a long way to minimising pyrazines. A mix of French oak barrels for maturation, a portion of new with lees contact and malolactic fermentation further adds depth. The Klein Constantia Clara 2021 is sourced from some of the highest pockets
on the famous Constantia farm. Made with an oxidative, turbid and wild ferment, and then aged in neutral oak to best express this prime terroir. “If we want Sauvignon Blanc to be taken seriously we need to push the boundaries on site, methods and quality,” presses Day. “If we don’t, we’ll be left behind. Producers have become complacent when it comes to making Sauvignon and it’s very difficult to move against the flow, but us like-minded producers need to stick together and focus on making world-class Sauvignon. While it wasn’t me who said this, I couldn’t agree more: let’s stop apologising for making Sauvignon Blanc. Let’s rather embrace it and show people what a serious style of the grape is all about. South African highlights from the tasting: Diemersdal The Journal 2019, Reyneke Reserve White 2017, Mellish Family Vineyards Blanc Fumé 2021, Klein Constantia Clara 2021, Bloemendal Suider Terras 2015, Trizanne Signature Wines Sondagskool White 2018, Vergelegen Reserve 2019, Bartho Eksteen Houtskool 2019, Thorne & Daughters Snakes & Ladders 2019.
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If we want Sauvignon Blanc to be taken seriously we need to push the boundaries on site, methods and quality SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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FEATURE | Planes, Trains and Automobiles
PLANES, TRAINS AND AUTOMOBILES
Why walk or drive when you can fly or bike? We EXPLORE a few FUN WAYS TO GET AROUND THE WINELANDS in style.
SADDLE UP Transport yourself back in time and explore the winelands by trusty steed. Take a laid-back stroll through the vineyards on horseback while being high enough to see the beautiful surroundings. Pink Geranium offers HORSEBACK Wine Tours through various Stellenbosch wine estates including Warwick, Le Bonheur and De Meye. Plus, Boschendal and Journey's End offer horseback outrides through various vineyards in the area. P.S. Don’t drink and gallop!
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TAKE A SEGWAY TOUR Officially the coolest way to breeze around Spier’s beautiful farm, Segways are two-wheeled, selfbalancing, battery powered personal transporters. Enjoy a family-friendly whistle-stop tour, as a guide shows you the vineyards and natural farming practices in action against the backdrop of the Helderberg mountain. PUT THE PEDAL TO METAL Are you into mountain biking with a side of wine tasting? There are so many great MOUNTAIN BIKE TRAILS that let you get your exercise fix, while soaking up scenic views, challenging routes and a spot of wine tasting afterward. A few of our favourite mountain bike trails (ranging from easy to super challenging) can be found at Boschendal, Muratie, Jordan, Dornier and Lourensford.
Planes, Trains and Automobiles | FEATURE
AHEM. CHOPPER IN Looking to celebrate a special anniversary or perhaps pop the question? For something extra, extra special, why not take to the sky and book a HELICOPTER trip to the winelands. A quick 20-minute journey from Cape Town, you can enjoy a guided wine-tasting and lunch for a pit stop before you head back to the Mother City. Various companies (like Cape Town Helicopters, NAC Helicopter Tours, & andBeyond) offer different packages and flights to some of the Western Cape’s finest wine farms.
SOAR ABOVE THE SKIES Float alongside the clouds in a HOT AIR BALLOON as you see the winelands from an entirely new perspective. Ballooning Cape Town invites you to watch your ride slowly inflate as you enjoy a steaming cup of coffee before you hop in and watch the rising sun. You’ll then drift along for about an hour before you land. Afterwards, enjoy a traditional glass of bubbly and be transported back for breakfast at Joostenberg Bistro.
ZIP FROM HERE TO THERE Does breaking a sweat and drinking wine not appeal? Same. Now, you can tour the Stellenbosch winelands on an EBIKE with Vinebikes. You get the fun of riding a fixie, without the unsightly sweat patches. The guided tour departs from Lanzerac and goes through the town, all the way through to Rustenberg Wines. Along the way, you’ll stop at some of the best local wine farms for various tastings.
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Explore a few fun ways to get around the winelands
ALL ABOARD THE TRAM The Franschhoek WINE TRAM is one of the best (and most popular) ways to explore the beautiful Franschhoek Wine Valley. You can hop on and off as you please, and experience a wide variety of different things on offer. Choose between eight different lines, each visiting wine estates from different parts of the valley. Great for a girls day out, family gathering or team building. SCOOTING AND TOOTING Scootours offer a fun and familyfriendly adventure to move around the vineyards in an eco-friendly way. Choose between the route at Middelvlei in Stellenbosch, and Chamonix in Franschhoek and make your way through the breathtaking terrain of the winelands. Using non-motorised MONSTER MOUNTAIN® SCOOTERS, the routes are easy to navigate as you freewheel down gentle slopes and take in the views.
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Christmas YOUR
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DRINKS GUIDE
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
While roast potatoes and turkey are, of course, the main attraction, don’t forget about the drinks!
Your Christmas Drinks Guide | FEATURE
W
hile cooking up a storm, it’s easy to forget about what wines will work best with your festive feast. To take one thing off your plate, we share some Christmas wine and drink ideas to serve alongside your festive dishes.
START WITH FIZZ: Nothing puts
you in the celebratory mood quite like Champagne or Cap Classique. You might be keen to pop a fancy pants bottle, but a word to the wise, those delicate notes will disappear with one bite of an almond croissant. So if you’re having a sweet start to the day, try demi-sec, or an off-dry Cap Classique or sparkling wine.
RING THINGS IN WITH CHARDONNAY: Ideal with a seafood
starter such as smoked salmon or smoked trout, a buttery Chardonnay will slice through the acidity and fattiness of smoked fish. An oaked Chardonnay will also be soft enough not to overpower this delicate flavours. Plus, this wine is also great to serve with shellfish.
NEXT, OPEN A PINOT NOIR: Pinot Noir is a lighter-bodied red wine known for its moderate tannins and red fruit notes like cherry and cranberry. This wine goes oh-so-well with the mild, tender white meat of turkey, which doesn’t overpower the taste. Whether roasted, grilled, or served with cranberry sauce, Pinot is a great companion to a traditional holiday meal. MEANDER INTO A MUSCAT: Muscat’s
natural sweetness and fruity flavours, often reminiscent of apricots, peaches and oranges, complement a wide range of traditional holiday sweets. Muscat’s rich, honeyed notes work well with the spices and dried fruits commonly found in Christmas desserts like fruitcake, mince pies and Panettone.
SIGN OFF WITH PORT: Ending off
with a cheese board or maybe some Christmas chocolates you got as a gift? A
tawny port with its subtle nutty sweetness is delicious with Stilton and other hard cheeses. When paired with chocolate, especially dark chocolate, the port’s sweetness complements the bitterness of the chocolate, enhancing the cocoa’s rich, dark flavours.
WHAT WINE TO COOK WITH?
While you don’t want to cook with your best wines, you don’t want to ruin a delicious Christmas feast by using mediocre plonk either. Here are a few tips when using wine in your Christmas dishes. F BALANCE FLAVOURS: Wine can
add depth and complexity to your dishes. For savoury recipes, like gravies or sauces, use a dry white wine to deglaze pans and add a subtle acidity. For richer dishes, such as roasts or stews, red wine can infuse a deep, robust flavour.
F DEGLAZE AND REDUCE: When using wine, deglaze the pan by pouring it into a hot, sautéed pan to release those flavourful browned bits. After deglazing, allow the wine to reduce by simmering. This concentrates the flavours and reduces the alcohol, leaving the essence of the wine in your dish. F CONSIDER WINE TYPES: Different
wines work best in specific recipes. For instance, use dry sherry in creamy sauces, sweet wines in desserts and white wines in creamy soup recipes.
TIP: Always Cater for Non Drinkers While ice-cold sparkling water is always welcome, try to have something that is a little more ‘special’ should one of your guests be driving, pregnant or simply not drinking. Kids will love it too! You can create a delicious non-alcoholic Christmas punch (see side bar) or stock up on some non-alcoholic wines or beers.
NON-ALCOHOLIC CHRISTMAS PUNCH
2 cups cranberry juice 1 cup orange juice 1 cup pineapple juice 2 cups sparkling apple juice orange slices, cranberries, pomegranate seeds and/or cherries for garnish
Mix cranberry, orange and pineapple juice in a punch bowl or large jug. Add sparkling apple juice and mix gently. When you’re ready to serve, add ice and fruit of your choice to garnish.
Note: For a lower sugar option, use sparkling water or sugar-free lemonade instead of sparkling apple juice.
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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WINE & DINE | What Wine goes with My Mince Pie
WHAT WINE
mince pie?
GOES WITH A CHRISTMAS Eight wine and snack pairing ideas to enjoy this festive season
CHRISTMAS MINCE PIES & CHENIN BLANC
If Christmas was a pastry, this would be it. These also feel like a staple midnight snack throughout the festive season, eh? The sweet and fruity filling of mince pies makes them a great match for a fruit-forward Chenin Blanc. Why? The fruity notes and crisp acidity of Chenin Blanc complement the sweet, spiced filling of mince pies, creating a nice balance of flavours. Wine-of-the-Month Club recommends: Boland Arum Lily Chenin Blanc 2022 (R185) 2 8
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
What Wine goes with My Mince Pie | FEATURE
BACON-WRAPPED DATES WITH GOAT CHEESE & PINOTAGE
It doesn’t feel like Christmas until you’ve had a date filled with cream cheese wrapped in bacon, right? A quick snack or ideal starter for your Christmas lunch or dinner, this creamy and salty bacon combo is a delicious way to ring in the festive flavours we know and love. Why? Pinotage, our ol’ signature red wine, offers a smoky and fruity character that pairs well with the savoury, smoky flavours of bacon. Plus, a hearty Pinotage will also work to cut through the fattiness of the cream cheese. Wine-of-the-Month Club recommends:
Rickety Bridge Pinotage 2020 (R155)
FESTIVE GRAZING BOARD & SAUVIGNON BLANC
Whipped up a quick fezzy grazing board for your visitors? While you load it up with the likes of cheeses, crackers, cold cuts and seasonal fresh fruit, a good goto wine to pair it with is a crispy Sauvignon Blanc. Why? Sauvignon Blanc’s zesty citrus and herbal notes add a refreshing contrast to the rich cheeses, cured meats and fresh fruits on your grazing board. Plus, an icy Sauv will be most welcomed if you’re serving snacks alfresco or by the pool. Wine-of-the-Month Club recommends:
Bruce Jack Sauvignon Blanc 2023 (R85)
FRUIT CAKE & MUSCAT
BILTONG & NUTS & SHIRAZ
The ultimate SA snack combo to enjoy pre-braai or between pool dips, is the classic nut and biltong mix. Salty and fatty, this mix needs a wine that cuts through the heaviness and works to lift those dominant salty flavours. Why? The bold and peppery notes of Shiraz or Syrah harmonise with the earthy flavours of biltong and the saltiness of roasted nuts, creating a wonderful pairing. Wine-of-the-Month Club recommends:
Ankerpaal Syrah 2021 (R159)
Fruitcake is a dense and rich festive staple known for its candied and dried fruits, nuts and spices. Often soaked in alcohol, like brandy or rum, means (like a fine wine) it has the ability to age well. Why? Muscat’s sweet and aromatic profile complements the dried fruits and spices in a traditional fruitcake, enhancing its depth of flavour. Wine-of-the-Month Club recommends:
Balance Classic Muscat 2021 (R89) SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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WINE & DINE | What Wine goes with My Mince Pie PAVLOVA & CHARDONNAY
This meringue-based festive dessert boasts a crisp outer shell and a soft, marshmallow-like centre. Typically, a Pavlova is loaded with whipped cream and an assortment of fresh fruits. A Chardonnay is a great match to this moreish dessert, working to enhance the sweetness of the fruit and meringue flavours. Why? Chardonnay’s buttery texture and tropical fruit undertones enhance the creamy, meringue-based pavlova, making it the ultimate pairing for dessert lovers. Wine-of-the-Month Club recommends:
Fairview Chardonnay 2021 (R140)
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GINGER BISCUITS & GEWURZTRAMINER
The ultimate Christmas biscuit, ginger snaps make for the perfect blend of soft ginger spice, cinnamon and molasses. Pairing these Christmas bikkies with a Gewürztraminer makes for a great post-dinner treat to enjoy just before bed. Why? The aromatic and spicy qualities of Gewürztraminer complement the ginger’s warmth and sweetness in these biscuits, creating a delicious contrast.
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Simonsig Gewurztraminer 2023 (R119)
Christmas isn’t Christmas without leftovers, right? 3 0
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
LEFTOVER TURKEY OR GAMMON SANDWICH & MERLOT
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Wine-of-the-Month Club recommends:
Christmas isn’t Christmas without leftovers, right? A couple of slices of leftover roast turkey or gammon, lettuce, tomato, mayo and a smidge of mustard on fresh artisanal bread might just be the ultimate leftover sandwich. Pair your gourmet sarmie with a full-bodied Merlot to help enhance the flavours of your turkey or gammon and cut through the fattiness of the mayo. Why?The soft tannins and red fruit notes of Merlot work well with the subtle flavours of turkey or the smoky sweetness of gammon, turning your leftover sarmie into a complete gourmet experience. Wine-of-the-Month Club recommends:
Eagles’ Nest Little Eagle Merlot 2017 (R149)
YOUR WINE
FAQS
YOUR FREQUENTLY ASKED WINE QUESTIONS
I HAVE ENJOYED A WIDE RANGE OF COCKTAILS AT FRIENDS’ PARTIES. THESE ARE BASED ON BRANDY, GIN, RUM OR OTHER SPIRITS, BUT NEVER ON WINE. IS IT POSSIBLE (OR ACCEPTABLE) TO MIX A WINE-BASED COCKTAIL? Of course it’s possible. You can create a cocktail from whatever you fancy. Whether it’s acceptable or not is entirely up to you. There are several well-known cocktails based on sparkling wine or Champagne: probably the best known is Black Velvet, which is a blend of Champagne and stout. Tradition has it the black velvet was created to mark the death of Queen Victoria’s husband, Albert. The “royalty” of the Champagne was put in mourning by adding a touch of black in the form of stout. Some notable wine writers have declared that this mixture does no more than ruin two otherwise good drinks. Sparkling wine does, however, combine deliciously with almost any fruit juice. Then, of course, there’s Sangria, which is a blend of two parts of red wine and one of orange juice, usually sweetened with a dash of sugar or a teaspoon of golden syrup. A great many words are written about the correct garnishes for cocktails. Martinis are traditionally served with an impaled olive floating in the glass, but what about something juicier? A slice of peach in a Chardonnay based cocktail, for example, a strawberry in your rosé-based drink, a plum in your Pinotage. You could have a lot of creative fun there. Among the cocktail set, wine drinkers are regarded as being rather snobbish, preferring to talk about their favourite beverage rather than drink it. There is certainly no shortage of wine bores in any community, while cocktail bores are a rarity, especially at the present prices of spirit drinks.
AT A FRIEND’S HOUSE THE OTHER NIGHT, WE WERE CELEBRATING HER PROMOTION AND POPPED A BOTTLE OF BUBBLY. SHE PLACED THE OPENED BOTTLE IN THE FRIDGE WITH A SILVER TEASPOON IN THE NECK TO HELP KEEP THE FIZZ. IT SEEMED A BIT FLAT WHEN I HELPED MYSELF TO ANOTHER GLASS. IS THERE ANY SCIENTIFIC REASON BEHIND THIS? Some folks think that a metal spoon placed in an open bottle of bubbly absorbs warm air from the neck of the bottle. By maintaining only chilled air, the spoon is thought to create a sort of natural barrier to the escaping carbon dioxide. Alas, it’s all fiction. Simply keep the bottle really cold to help maintain the fizz. Here’s the scientific explanation: Molecules in all liquids bounce around all the time. (It’s known as Brownian motion—Einstein wrote a famous paper on this—where tiny grains of pollen on the surface of water can be seen to jerk in all directions.) The molecules in a warm liquid are more active than the molecules in a cold liquid. Say the liquid is sparkling wine. In between the molecules of sparkling wine there are lighter molecules of carbon dioxide gas. The gas molecules start being bumped out of the bottle by the liquid molecules as soon as the bottle is opened. Let the sparkling wine get warm and those liquid molecules will bounce the gas molecules out of the bottle much more quickly. SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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WINE | Connoisseur’s Choice
CONNOISSEUR’S
CHOiCE A SELECTION OF TOP WINES TO TRY
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SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
Connoisseur’s Choice | WINE
1. Wildeberg Red 2022 (Price R447) The nose of fresh crushed raspberries veiled with white and black pepper is hypnotic and sensual, especially for their climate. The palate has breadth and natural juiciness which is complemented by cranberry and peppercorn flavours.
4. Anura Symphony 2019 (Price R99) This is an elegant, fruit driven blend showing the finesse of a Grenache based blend. Aromas of sweet cherry, white pepper and cloves makes for an intriguing nose. Silky tannins with well integrated oak flavour ensure a complex palate.
7. Joubert Tradauw R62 2016 (Price R250) Named after the Route 62 highway, this wine is full bodied and deep red in colour with dark fruits and licorice aromas. On the palate the wine shows a balanced tannin structure with flavours of blackberry and hints of herbaceous freshness.
PAIRING: Charcuterie, juicy steak or traditional South African Bobotie.
PAIRING: Creamy pastas, pizzas and medium to mild flavour cheese.
PAIRING: Meat dishes and tomato based pasta.
Drink now or cellar.
Drink now or cellar.
2. Allée Bleue Isabeau 2018 (Price R165) Abundant citrus and dried apricot present on the nose. Layers of spicy cinnamon and soft vanilla follow. The palate is silky with elegant flavours of summer fruits and a lingering lemony aftertaste. This white wine blend of Chardonnay, Sémillon and Viognier is in perfect balance.
5. Spier 21 Gables Pinotage 2018 (Price R390) Deep ruby red, the nose exudes violet aromas and sweet, ripe blackberries and cherries which overlay a hint of graphite. Classic and full-bodied in style, the palate follows with ripe, Black Forest cake-like flavours while the tannins are dense and velvety for an opulent finish.
PAIRING: Chicken, Thai duck and salad.
PAIRING: Red meat, including ostrich.
Drink now or cellar.
3. Anura Arpeggio 2020 (Price R99) Anura Arpeggio is an excellent red blend of Syrah, Mourvèdre and Grenache Noir. This wine displays notes of sweet cherry, mulberry and blackcurrant flavours combined with a subtle spice fragrance. Drink now or up to 10 years.
PAIRING: Meat, charcuterie, medium flavour cheese, pizza and pasta.
Drink now or cellar.
8. Meerlust Red 2020 (Price R249) Youthful colour, deep and dense with garnet red hue. Red fruit and warm spice on the nose with some supporting oak notes. Still young and intense, the palate is full-bodied, structured but packed with fresh red fruit and soft rounded tannins.
Drink now or up to 8 years.
Drink now, best 4-15 from vintage.
PAIRING: Red meats, chicken, pizza and pasta dishes.
6. Joubert Tradauw Cabernet Franc Reserve 2017 (Price R480) A classic, well-balanced thinly layered wine with brooding garnet of sweet red and black hedgerow fruit combined with stewed apples and cranberry. Hints of spice with cigar box aromas. Tannins are re-assuring with a cedar plum finish.
9. Rust en Vrede Estate Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 (Price R378) Aromas of sweet spice, black cherries and plum with subtle hints of cedar and rustic leather. The palate pleases with soft, juicy tannins which are well balanced to offer all-round balance and finesse with a lingering finish.
Drink now or cellar.
PAIRING: Hearty meat dishes.
Drink now or cellar.
PAIRING: Red meat dishes and aged cheese. SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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WINE | Connoisseur’s Choice
10. Rust en Vrede Estate 2020 (Price R579) Aromas of dark chocolate, blackcurrant, black cherries and sandalwood. Sweet fruit on entry followed by a combination of Black Forest gateaux, cedar, baking spices and toast. Fresh acidity and finegrained but grippy tannins give structure.
13. The Drift Moveable Feast Red 2018 (Price R230) Showing distinctive Drift Estate aromas of mulberry, blackberry and plum interwoven with garden herbs and fynbos floral notes, this wine stands for the signature of this estate. Drink now or cellar up to 7 years.
16. De Grendel Koetshuis Sauvignon Blanc 2022 (Price R225) Intense hints of minerality, gooseberries and a herbaceous nose and palate. Supported by a fresh acidity this wine is a full bodied white wine with an exceptionally long finish.
Drink now or cellar.
PAIRING: Red meat, game and vegetables.
PAIRING: Lamb, beef, spicy foods and vegetables.
Drink now or cellar up to 5 years.
11. Stellenbosch Reserve Chenin Blanc 2023 (Price R149) On the palate the wine has a zesty acidity, bold tropical fruit following through from the nose along with flavours of peach and nectarine adding complexity. A creamy lemon curd texture and notes of beeswax round out the palate, finishing with rich but fresh tropical fruit.
14. Bruce Jack Heritage Hard Day Chardonnay 2020 (Price R310) Vanilla, butterscotch and toffee character with hints of grapefruit on the nose, with a subtle hint of cinnamon on the finish. The palate gives you citrus fruit with layers of caramel/ toffee character – oak-flavours are well rounded and smooth on the finish.
17. Holden Manz Rothko Rosé 2022 (Price R149) Delicate, floral perfumed rose petals and peaches on the nose. Smooth, creamy elegant wine with tonnes of finesse and a long finish. Multi-layered lingering wine which sparkles like a diamond! Fraises des bois on the palate with a riverstone minerality.
PAIRING: Poultry, seafood and vegetables.
Drink now or cellar.
Drink now.
Drink now or cellar.
PAIRING: Fish, chicken and fresh salty oysters.
12. Holden Manz Vernissage 2020 (Price R139) This wine is a brilliant bright ruby red colour with raspberries, cherries, mulberry flavours, tobacco amd herbaceous notes with soft and silky tannins and a lingering finish.
15. Holden Manz Big G 2018 (Price R325)
18. Peter Falke Signature Kanoa 2018 (Price R420)
Colour: Dark ruby. Nose: Ripe dark fruit, graphite, cassis, a subtle herbaceousness, nuances of blueberry and thyme backed with hints of cedar wood and pencil shavings. Palate: Soft, voluptuous integrated tannins with a rich creamy cassis freshness. Drink now or cellar up to 10 years.
Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc make this exquisite blend. Beautiful aromas of black cherry, raspberry and plums with hints of pencil shavings. Subtle French oak nuances create rich and opulent flavours alongside silky tannins with a superb lingering finish. Drink now or cellar.
PAIRING: Poultry, pork, salmon and soft cheeses.
Drink now or cellar up to 7 years.
PAIRING: Pair with lamb stew, your favourite pizza/pasta dish or hard cheeses. 3 4
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
PAIRING: Chicken, turkey roasted vegetables and cream soups.
PAIRING: Pair with beef, venison, charcuterie board and vegetables.
PAIRING: Grilled beef or lamb and a creamy sauce.
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T
he human brain is an awesome computer with a storage capacity bigger than anything Apple ever thought of. Maybe there’s a hidden symbolism in the story of Eve and the apple tree. Was that serpent the first IT man? The human brain can also be an awful tease at times, particularly when it comes to matters such as wine tasting. This is why judges at serious wine competitions are shut in little cubicles out of sight of each other and certainly out of sight of any labels. If you look across a room and see somebody making a sour face after tasting a wine, you wonder which wine he or she found so horrible and suddenly you’re no longer tasting in an unbiased way––you’re looking for the bad one. You can use this trickery in many ways. I was once asked to present a wine tasting to a group of naval officers and decided to put them to a sneaky test. I borrowed eight elegant crystal wine decanters, numbered them and filled each one with a different cheap wine from a five-litre box. I then hid the boxes out of sight and set out the decanters on a starched linen table cloth, with expensive wine glasses. As I presented each decanter I gave a detailed and honest description of the contents. “This one in made from 60 per cent Chardonnay and 40 per cent Chenin 36
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
Mind
over Matter
DAVE BIGGS ON WHY YOUR BRAIN CAN BE SUCH A TEASE
Blanc and comes from the Robertson area...” and so on. The tasters sipped and discussed and appreciated the fine wines and gave them pretty good scores. One of the officers sipped a wine and remarked: “I’ll bet my salary this is Tassenberg. Nobody can fool me with Tassies. It’s my regular drink.” The others shushed him and told him to behave. This was a serious tasting. Of course his was the only correct guess of the evening and there were some quite angry officers and red faces when the boxes were revealed. They muttered about my offering such poor quality wines at a serious tasting, but at the time they were tasting them they had found them excellent.
In Britain they have discovered a simple way of slowing traffic by fooling with motorists’ heads. They have planted avenues of trees alongside the roads leading into certain villages where speeding cars have been a problem. The trick is the distance between the trees gets shorter and shorter as they get closer to the town. Approaching motorists sense they’re passing trees faster and faster, so their brains tell them they’re increasing speed and they instinctively slow down. Apparently it has worked well. Unfortunately, you can’t fool all of the people all of the time. Some years ago I found two wines that had been produced in Zimbabwe and set them out at a party for some friends without saying anything about them. After a while I noticed half full glasses being abandoned on side tables as guests switched to other drinks rather than suffer the nasty Zim wine. One of the guests, however, declared it was the best wine he had tasted for a long time and kept refilling his glass. I need hardly mention he was a Zimbabwean. I believe Zimbabwean wines have improved considerably since the mid 1990s, when “flying winemakers” from South Africa and Australia helped raise the standards. But this was long ago.
EXPERIENCE
SWANEPOEL WINES
Oude Compagnies Post, Tulbagh - Make use of our venue or stay in our old stone cellar and farmstyle cottages. WhatsApp or Call Dirk Swanepoel on: 076 013 8613 Wine enquiries: swanepoelwines@gmail.com Accommodation enquiries: ocptulbagh@gmail.com
Single Vineyard, Estate Wines. Grown, made and bottled on Remhoogte Wine Estate Simonsberg - Stellenbosch www.remhoogte.co.za