Ndege News - Spetember 2024 by Airkenya

18 Climbing Weekend: A Trio of Volcanoes in Uganda’s Mgahinga NP

22 Where Gold meets Silver in Mgahinga NP

26 Samburu: The Story of a River, an Elephant and a Lodge

30 Mt Kenya Safari Club

34 Historic Depths and Submerged Stories: Scuba Secrets off Zanzibar's Stone Town

38 To Dive or not to Dive in Stone Town, Zanzibar

Dear Travelers,

It is with great pleasure that I welcome you on board as we undertake another exciting high season across East Africa. As the Country Manager of AeroLink Uganda, I can assure you that unique experiences await you in each of the remarkable destinations that our East African group of airlines flies to.

Uganda offers ten National Parks and, beyond the renowned gorilla tracking in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest and the Kibale Forest chimps, these parks contain a wealth of diverse birdlife; there is raw power on show at Murchison Falls, tree-climbing lions in Ishasha and savannahs that stretch into red-dust sunsets in Kidepo Valley National Park.

Kenya is bustling with activity, offering the iconic wildlife safaris in the Maasai Mara, Amboseli and not forgetting the Northern Circuit. We are particularly excited about AirKenya's brand-new Arrivals Terminal, designed to provide

a seamless and comfortable finish to your Kenyan adventure. Still exciting news, their newly acquired Dash 8-200, Reg 5Y–CNB took off for its inaugural flight just at the onset of the high season.

Tanzania beckons with the awe-inspiring landscapes of Mount Kilimanjaro, the idyllic beaches of Zanzibar, and the unparalleled wildlife viewing in the Serengeti. We are confident that Regional Air Tanzania is ready to showcase the wonders of this country, ensuring your journey is as memorable as the destination itself.

We understand that the high season brings increased demand across our airlines. Rest assured; we are well prepared to cater to your needs. Our dedicated teams, across all three airlines, stand ready to ensure your journey is not only enjoyable but also exceeds your expectations.

On behalf of all the 3 airlines, we extend our warmest welcome and wish you a truly unforgettable experience in East Africa.

Safe travels!

Captain Catherine Mugo

Country Manager AeroLink Uganda

We understand that the high season brings increased demand across our airlines. Rest assured; we are well prepared to cater to your needs. Our dedicated teams, across all three airlines, stand ready to ensure your journey is not only enjoyable but also exceeds your expectations.

Karibu

Greeting Explorers,

The final quarter of the year is upon us and, as you settle into your seat, ready to soar above the savannahs, mountains and coastlines of East Africa, let me take you on a little pre-journey journey. We’re diving deep this month - quite literally for some of you planning to explore the underwater marvels of Zanzibar - but before you trade this magazine for your snorkel, indulge me for a moment.

You’re in for a treat as we traverse the skies over Kenya, Uganda and Tanzania, three countries that boast some of the most breathtaking landscapes and unique wildlife on Earth.

Kenya, the home of the AirKenya fleet, offers a kaleidoscope of experiences. Picture Tsavo's mane-less lions on the prowl for dinner amongst the thick thorn scrub. Let’s not forget the north's unique antelope species, the slender-necked gerenuk, a giraffe in elegant antelope form, and the elusive hirola, the world's rarest antelope now seen here and there in Tsavo.

Tanzania, oh glorious Tanzania! Your adventures here are elevated to the highest peak — Mount Kilimanjaro, Africa’s rooftop. If you’ve ever wondered what it’s like to stand on top of the continent, this is your chance. For those with their eyes set on the horizon, the Serengeti awaits. Witness the wildebeest migration, a spectacle of hooves and horns, dust and determination. It’s the greatest show on earth, and spoiler alert: it’s often sold out. Then there’s Zanzibar, our featured delight this month, where the coral reefs invite you to a world teeming with marine life. Whether you're a seasoned diver or a

novice, the underwater vistas here are nothing short of enchanting.

Uganda, the pearl of Africa, where the forests are alive with the hoots of chimpanzees and the deeper grunts of gorillas. This month, we’re spotlighting the golden monkeys, those charismatic bamboo-feeding acrobats. Trekking through Virunga Forests to catch a glimpse of these creatures is a reminder of the magic that still thrives in the heart of the wild.

As you flip through these pages, let your imagination take flight. Envision yourself tracking the golden monkeys of Uganda, diving into the azure depths off Zanzibar or standing silent before the majesty of a Tsavo lion. Each story is a portal to a world where nature reigns supreme, cultures are vibrantly immersive and adventure knows no bounds.

Our destinations are more than just places on a map—they are stories waiting to be lived, memories waiting to be made. So, whether you’re here for the beaches, the beasts, or the breathtaking beauty of East Africa, know that every moment is a treasure.

Fasten your seatbelts, dear travellers. Not just for the flight, but for the extraordinary escapades that await beyond the runway. The wild, wonderful wilderness that is East Africa.

Safe travels and wild adventures to you all,

Hollie M’gog

Editor, Ndege News

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Editor Hollie M’gog

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NDEGE which means aeroplane in Kiswahili is a quarterly Magazine publication of AIRKENYA Express Limited

Wilson Airport

P.O. Box 30357 - 00100 Nairobi, Kenya

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Email: resvns@airkenya.com

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The magazine focuses on tourism, hospitality, travel, leisure, conservation and aviation related news in the East African region and beyond. The views expressed in NDEGE NEWS Magazine do not necessarily reflect those of either AIRKENYA EXPRESS, REGIONAL AIR SERVICES and / or AEROLINK UGANDA.

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Nineteen years ago, Silvia found herself on the Indian Ocean island of Zanzibar. There, the Swahili people, the ancient culture and the ocean life captured her. ‘There is a place and a space where each person may find an unparalleled sense of ease and contentment,’ she shares, ‘I discovered that on my very first scuba dive.’ For a couple of years Silvia sought out some of the very best diving spots across the globe but it was Zanzibar that held her close.

Underwater photography was a new skill to be explored, a way to show exquisite underwater life to those above the waves. Through the wisdom of more experienced photographers, Silvia worked on the critical white balance that makes the difference between a good photo and an excellent photo. ‘Suddenly a vibrant new world of colourful underwater photography opened up for me … and I’m still chasing the perfect light with a perfect fish or sea creature now,’ she laughs.

Reflecting on her journey, Silvia sees the tapestry of her life woven with threads of amazing people, unique experiences, breathtaking encounters and unforgettable places. Each dive, each photo and each connection made along the way has shaped who she is today. ‘Looking forward, I can't envision a future without my greatest source of inspiration and emotion: the ocean. My camera and I have become inseparable companions, documenting the dance of light and life beneath the waves.’

The ocean is more than just a backdrop for Silvia's adventures; it's a vital part of her identity. Every dive is

Cover My Story Diver and Photographer Silvia Bottosso

an opportunity to learn, to grow and to connect with the natural world in a profound way. The ocean has taught her patience, resilience and the importance of living in harmony with our environment. ‘One Ocean is all about inspiring others to explore and protect the underwater world.’

The future holds endless possibilities, but one thing remains certain: Silvia's passion for the ocean will guide her every step of the way. Whether she is diving into the depths or capturing the beauty of marine life, the ocean is her constant companion and greatest muse.

Here's to the next adventure beneath the waves and the endless stories waiting to be told.

AirKenya’s new arrivals terminal is now operational

In our continuous pursuit to always offer the best travel experience, we are excited to announce that our new and exclusive Arrivals Terminal at Wilson Airport is now open and operational. The terminal features a spacious baggage retrieval area and washrooms, ensuring a seamless, stress-free conclusion to your safari. In conjunction with our state-of-theart private Passenger Departure Lounge, AirKenya offers the ultimate in luxury safari travel.

AirKenya's Dash 8 takes flight for high season

As the peak travel season kicks off, AirKenya is thrilled to announce the inaugural flight of its Dash 8 aircraft, registered as 5Y-CNB. This addition of another Dash 8 aircraft to the fleet marks a significant milestone for AirKenya, enhancing its capacity to meet the growing demand for domestic and regional travel during this busy period. Passengers can now look forward to an effortless and comfortable flying experience with AirKenya.

The Impact of Water and Agriculture on Samburu’s Schools Nourishing Minds

In the arid region of Samburu, Kenya, the beauty of the landscape contrasts sharply with the challenges faced by its people. Many children prepare and sit for tests on an empty stomach or sustain their studies on a malnourished mind. Drinking water is seldom really clean and often needs collecting from many kilometres away. For the 350,000 residents of Kenya’s Samburu district, water and food are an everyday struggle. Tourism in the region’s protected areas; Shaba, Buffalo Springs and Samburu Reserve, has grown in strength and attracts more visitors each year.

Drought though is still a very harsh reality in the region. Without basic necessities, water access is the difference between economic dignity and the endless cycle of poverty.

Recognising the severity of the situation, The Samburu Project (TSP)

began working in 2006 to address the water crisis in Samburu East County. By drilling 155 boreholes, TSP has provided over 100,000 people with clean water, significantly improving

the quality of life in the region. This effort has had a ripple effect on local schools, where the availability of water has contributed to a surge in school attendance. With primary education now free, more children are seizing the opportunity to learn, but the struggle doesn’t stop there. The Samburu people have traditionally relied on livestock for their livelihood, but unpredictable weather patterns — ranging from intense droughts to sudden floods — have made this way of life increasingly untenable. Even with access to clean water, food insecurity remains a pressing issue, with many students attending school primarily for the promise of a meal. Unfortunately, that meal is often just a small serving of beans, rice, maize or porridge.

Understanding that more needed to be done, TSP expanded its mission. In addition to providing clean water, they have built hand-washing

PHOTOS: Mamen Saura

AirKenya Champions Menstrual Hygiene in Maasai Mara

AirKenya marked World Menstrual Hygiene Day with a meaningful initiative at Emarti Primary School in the Maasai Mara. A dedicated team, led by Reservations Manager Maryanne Ngánga and supported by Operations Manager Una Getrude, Charters Manager Catherine Kioko and Digital Marketing Specialist Vanessa Lumbasio, joined forces with Dr. Simat Koriata, a doctor from the Mara region, to provide neccessary education and resources to the school’s students.

The focus of the visit was on empowering both girls and boys with knowledge about menstrual hygiene, promoting an environment of openness and awareness. The girls received sanitary pads and undergarments, while the boys were given footballs to enhance their sports activities. Plenty of snacks meant plenty of student smiles too.

stations, installed latrines, and launched small school gardens. These gardens are now thriving at schools like Sere Olipi Primary, Wamba Boys Primary, Lupus Leluai Primary and Tipito Girls Secondary. Students and staff are cultivating crops like kale, zucchini, squash, beans, corn and watermelon, which not only improve their diet but also enhance their learning experience by teaching valuable agricultural skills.

The success of these initiatives has inspired other schools across Samburu, creating a wave of interest in similar projects. With the continued growth of this community effort, it’s only a matter of time before every school in Samburu offers its students more than just an education — they’ll offer the tools for a sustainable and healthy future.

AirKenya is a proud sponsor of The Samburu Project.

PHOTO: Mamen Saura

BLOSSOMS & BEYOND

Baobab

Adansonia digitata

There are only eight baobab species across the whole world, six are endemic to Madagascar meaning they only occur there. One is endemic to Australia and one, the one you will probably see on your East Africa safari, occurs here on mainland Africa. Carbon dating of one Adansonia in Namibia places it at 1,275 years! Baobabs are the oldest known angiosperms (flowering plants) and, if you are lucky enough to see them in the rains, they are green and lush with incredibly beautiful flowers.

Their seeds produce a rich oil that is much in demand and crushed to a powder, they are considered a ‘super-food.’ The white tartar in the seeds is both nutritious and delicious, with a slight citric flavour. The leaves too are edible and all parts; leaves, fruit, seed are used in herbal remedies while a strong fibre from the bark is used to make rope and cloth.

PHOTO: Graphic Node

PHOTO: Ansie Potgieter

Across

[4] New aircraft in the AirKenya Flight

[6] Species name for the baobab found in East Africa

[7] The most remarkable and perhaps ugliest mammal on the planet

[9] The name of the branching palm found along the river in Samburu region

[10] True or false; hippos secrete a natural mucus sunscreen

[11] The traditional name for Mount Kenya

[12] The name of the river that flows through the Samburu region and in front of Elephant Bedroom Camp

[13] The Golden monkey is considered by some to be a subspecies of which monkey?

[14] The name of a craft that can go under the water

Down

[1] The island with incredible diving 200km south of Zanzibar

[2] The name of the volcano with a lake in it found in Southern Uganda on the Rwanda/DRC border

[3] The volcano whose names means ʻold manʼs teeth.ʼ

[5] Another name for the bearded vulture

[8] Marine mammal featured on the front cover

[15] A very rare mountain antelope that are being bred and released from a base at Mount Kenya Conservancy

East Africa’s Vultures THE BIRDS & THE BEES

Don’t be fooled by the birds you see cleaning up any carcasses! Vultures lead incredibly complex, social and fascinating lives; they often mate for life, both help to build the nest, collect food, raise young and even spend time building up those social bonds in moments of grooming and preening each other –it’s tricky to clean up those folds of skin where bits of carcass lodged! Vultures bathe in water at least once a day which is a fantastic sight to see. This keeps them clean and means they do not carry bacteria and ectoparasites back to the chicks in the nest.

The strong acids in their gut are able to break down almost all natural toxins, from tuberculosis to anthrax, which makes our environment healthier for us. Vulture restaurants are an attraction where you can get right up close to vultures on a kill by remaining essentially hidden to their view in a bird hide. This makes for some incredible photos and some close scrutinising of the pecking order for carcass access. While watching vultures, have a look at how the bill of each species is specifically shaped for the parts of the carcass it prefers.

IT MUST BE TRUE

I HEARD IT ON SAFARI!

Giraffes have the same number of bones in their neck as us. Seven! There are however huge size and structural differences. Each of these cervical vertebrae can grow to 10 inches long. Giraffes also have a 45cm purple tongue and a modified atlas-axis joint that enables the head to tilt vertical. Where our first thoracic vertebra is fixed at the neck-trunk unction, in the giraffe it functions as part of the neck.

PHOTO: By Pawel Czerwinski

Sparrow weavers do (generally) build their nests only on one side of a tree. The side they choose depends on where they are and what direction the local prevailing wind comes from. The birds obviously want as many nests as possible to be bred in successfully and seemingly, nesting on the leeward side of a tree gives them a 1/3 better chance at successfully raising young. PHOTO: Mpala Live

It is true that hippos need to stay in the water to protect themselves from the sun. Hippos have a thin epidermis with no sweat glands which mean they lose water at several rates that of other mammals – a hippo out of water risks rapid dehydration and overheating. They have mucous glands that secrete a mucous red fluid that dries lacquer-like on their skin and acts as a natural sunscreen, stops infection and protects against dehydration.

PHOTO: By Henrik Hansen

Rhinos do not stamp out fires! Like all animals they have a keen sense of smell and will avoid fire. The myth stems from Badak Api, the fire rhino, a legendary, flame-eating creature found in the folklore of Southeast Asia. The 1980’s movie, ‘The Gods Must be Crazy’ and the popular ‘Simpsons’ show popularised this myth.

It is not true that zebra stripes confuse predators with a ‘dazzle effect’ so the predator doesn’t know which individual to kill. Numerous, robust scientific studies have proven that the primary benefit of stripes on a zebra is a reduced number of biting flies (e.g. tsetse, horseflies, etc.) that land on them. The stripes seem to confuse the flies, and are especially useful where the whip-like tail cannot reach as a fly-swatter. Even the extinct Quagga had the distinctive triangular stripe pattern on the front shoulder, just beyond the reach of the tail and the mouth.

PHOTO: By Nick Fewings

SMALL & SPECIAL

Nude, Blind & Equipped to Dig: The Most Remarkable (& Ugliest) Mammal on the Planet

By Jon Hall and Charles Foley

Stop!

A puff of soil floats above a hole at the side of the vehicle track in Meru National Park.

We hold our breath …. hind feet are visible, flinging soil into the light. Another cloud of dirt flies from the hole before a pink rear-end emerges.

Meet the Naked Mole-rat, one of the most remarkable, and perhaps the ugliest, mammals on the planet.

At around eight centimeters in size, this pink, wrinkled sausage has a sharp pair of incisors on one end. They are

entirely without fur, lack pain sensitivity in their wrinkled skin, have no ears and a pair of miniscule eyes. It’s a face only a mother could love.

And what a mother they have. Naked Mole-rats are one of the planet’s only eusocial mammals, a social structure that they share with bees, termites and ants. Mole-rats form colonies in which only one female, the Queen, breeds. The vast majority of the group are non-reproductive workers who dedicate their lives to care for the colony as a whole. They raise their siblings!

The worker mole-rats cooperate in various ways, notably in their tunnel-digging efforts. They form an assembly line

PHOTO: Jon Hall

where some individuals break the soil ahead with their teeth, while those behind sweep it backwards, eventually pushing it out of a hole at the surface to form a molehill. These remarkable sand puppies can move as fast backwards as they can forwards and evolution means that their lips close behind their teeth so as they avoid getting a mouthful of soil while digging! About a quarter of their musculature dedicated to closing their jaws during the process of digging. The emergence of just one in the colony as it piles dirt into a mole-hill, is perhaps the only place we may be lucky enough to catch a sighting!

These special mole-rats remarkably long-lived. Scientists aren’t quite sure yet how long they can live, but captive animals have reached 30 years already; a longevity unheard of among small rodents.

And another special fact? They exhibit an exceptional resistance to cancer.

Beneath the ground is a labyrinth which they share with several hundred other animals. This brings challenges that the mole-rats have evolved to overcome; lower oxygen levels that would render us dead, they can slow their metabolism when needed so as to conserve their energy. Colonial living has its advantages too. Naked mole-rats are essentially cold blooded, again, entirely unlike the vast majority of mammals. They are simply unable to regulate their own body temperature and are known to huddle together for warmth on colder days.

The list of strange mole-rat facts continues. They eat their own poo to recycle the food they find (mainly roots and tubers), and the part of their brains that deals with the sense of touch is remarkably large with a third of it dedicated to the species’ massive incisors. It seems mole-rats use their choppers to sense the world around them.

These subterranean rodents occur through the horn of Africa, from Kenya to Djibouti prefering drier country. Like most animals that spend the majority of their time underground, they are seldom seen. But if look for evidence of their presence in the right areas, especially after rain, it should not take long to spot a fresh mound.

So, if you are visiting mole-rat country, keep your eyes peeled for a puff of dirt being flung into the air. You might catch a glimpse of a truly bizarre and wonderfully ugly mammal. Meru National Park, and the crop land around it, offers a good chance of spotting one of these sand puppies. Let your guide know you are interested.

Jon Hall & Charles Foley

Jon Hall began mammalwatching in 1991 when he lived in Zambia. In 2005 he set up www.mammalwatching. com, the world’s largest mammalwatching community. He lives in New York.

Charles Foley is a senior conservation scientist at the Lincoln Park Zoo in Chicago. He has worked in wildlife conservation in Tanzania for over 30 years and is an avid mammalwatcher.

PHOTO: Jon Hall

PHOTO: Chiswick Chap

Soldiers, workers & queen

Experience Wild Luxury at the Newly Refurbished Saruni Basecamp Properties

Driven by our passion for creating memorable safari experiences, Saruni Basecamp has redefined luxury in the heart of the African wilderness with its recent renovations across some of its camps and lodges. Nestled within the scenic Masai Mara and the rugged landscapes of Samburu's private conservancies, these newly upgraded properties aim to enhance every aspect of our guest's safari experience while providing unparalleled comfort and style. Whether you're soaking in the panoramic views from the newly redesigned Saruni Eagle View, experiencing the perfect fusion of modern comfort and traditional charm at Saruni Mara, or tracking the magnificent rhinos at Saruni Rhino, every moment is designed to immerse you in Africa's wild beauty.

Soar Above the Savannah at Saruni Eagle View in Naboisho Conservancy, Maasai Mara

A scenic escarpment offers an unparalleled vantage point over the wildlife that speckles the Naboisho plains. The camp’s nine luxurious tents, now redesigned with split-level layouts, feature, on the upper level, spacious bedrooms and en-suite bathrooms. Here, you can unwind in a sunken tub, soaking in the mesmerising views. The lower deck features our all-new lounging area with a daybed that doubles as an extra bed providing more space for relaxation, while the private deck sets the scene for intimate dinners under the vast African sky. The camp’s social spaces have also been beautifully redesigned into inviting areas where guests can unwind and enjoy wildlife viewing in the comfort of the camp environs. A modern plunge pool next to the revamped bar is the ideal spot to mingle with fellow adventurers, while evenings by the newly built fireplace under a starlit sky, set the base for sharing stories of the day’s wildlife encounters. For ultimate relaxation, indulge in a therapeutic massage at our newly opened spa, surrounded by the tranquillity of the wilderness.

Discover the Timeless Charm of Saruni Mara in Mara North Conservancy

Tucked away in the secluded hills Saruni Mara combines modern luxury with timeless traditional allure. Set within a lush indigenous forest, this intimate lodge embodies classic safari elegance, now enhanced with thoughtful renovations

that elevate your stay. The lodge's cozy thatched cottages and family villas now feature upgraded fixtures and furnishings, offering a refined blend of comfort and style that seamlessly complements the natural surroundings. The dining room, with its elegant French windows and doors, exudes warmth and privacy. For those who prefer the outdoors, alfresco dining options allow you to enjoy your meals while fully immersed in the beauty of the Mara. Evenings at Saruni Mara are especially magical, with the cozy new fireplace providing a perfect spot for unwinding after an adventurous day.

Saruni Rhino: A Remote Paradise in Sera Conservancy, Samburu Region

Saruni Rhino stands as a gateway to a thrilling combination of adventure and conservation. Situated along the Kauro River in Sera Conservancy, this exclusive camp features four newly renovated bandas that combine modern comfort with rustic elegance, making it the perfect escape for families and friends. Each banda includes a private verandah with stunning views of the dramatic landscape and a nearby waterhole. Saruni Rhino provides the unique opportunity to track black and white rhinos, on foot, with expert guides.

Saruni Eagle View

Sunken bathtub with beatiful views at Saruni Eagle View

Saruni Mara

Climbing Weekend: A Trio of Volcanoes in Uganda’s Mgahinga NP

By Hollie M'gog

One of the patterns of evolution are that flora and fauna on mountains are bigger. Sometimes a third bigger than their counterparts in lowland regions. Standing high on the slopes of any one of the volcanoes within the Virunga Massif, you feel huge! On top of the world … if the sky is blue with cotton wool clouds! If it is cold and misty and raining and windy then mountains are very much colder, and moods very much sourer.

There are three national parks that make up the Virunga Massif; Mgahinga in Rwanda, Parc National de Volcans in Rwanda and Virunga in DRC. Overgrown with forest and speckled with primates, eight volcanoes rise into the tropical sky, all between three and four thousand five hundred metres, and each with a name that alludes to adventures and

tales that beg to be explored. On the Rwandan side in Volcanoes NP there are Karasimbi and Bisoke, within DRC in Virunga there lies the once exploding and now just bubbling, Nyiragongo, as well as the still dormant Mikeno and Nyamuragira. On the Ugandan side in Mgahinga National Park we have Gahinga, Sabinyo and Muhabura.

Standing high on the slopes, looking down into the valley and towards the small Ugandan town of Kisoro, one can clearly see the three vegetation types: Thick-forest ringing the park like a skirt, then up into the waving bamboo and finally up into the sub-alpine region. The Virunga Massif is the only place on the planet where silver mountain gorillas share the forest with golden monkeys. Truly here, gold meets silver.

Once this incredible forest stretched all the way to Bwindi further north. Once upon a time, gorillas would have wandered the shores of Lake Mutanda as lone males sought out new territories and family groups. Now Virunga and Bwindi are islands of biodiversity that attract thousands of visitors to them. The Virunga volcanoes are part of the Albertine Rift chain of mountains that formed millions of years ago, and that border the western branch of the East African Rift. They run between Lake Kivu in the south and Lake Edward in the North.

As well as being important for wildlife, the park also has a huge cultural significance, in particular for the indigenous Batwa pygmies. This tribe of hunter-gatherers was the

The lake inside Gahinga

forest’s first people, and their ancient knowledge and ability to live in and off the forest remains unrivalled.

Four Days, Three Volcano Hikes

Sabinyo; the old man’s teeth: You’ll be climbing over 1,300m from base to summit into this, the oldest of the Virunga volcanoes. Millions of years of weathering and erosion have left a three cragged summit that looks just like the worn teeth of an old man!

Depending on your fitness, it’s a 15km return climb that can take anywhere between six to nine hours. It’s an early start that will take you up into these spectacular crags, along breathtaking ridgelines but to get up there you first meander through incredibly giant bamboo forest that creaks and waves in the light breeze. It’s here the golden Monkeys come to feed on fresh new shoots. Along the trail we came upon fresh elephant dung, its steam causing excitement amongst the three climbers.

The elephants in Virunga are not technically forest elephant as they can and do meander their way over to the DRC side and down to the savannahs that border the park to the West, but they are as close to forest elephant as one may come in East Africa. It’s said that forest elephant are more aggressive than

their savannah cousins, but perhaps it is just that any encounter on these steep forest paths can surprise both parties and leave only metres of reaction time.

Through the bamboo and suddenly the elevation steepens, your breath shortens and the vegetation changes. The forest here feels ‘shaggy’, almost an out-of-bed-head look! Now, the mossy old man’s beard hangs from Hagenia abysinicca forest trees. Trees that deserve a place in the fairy tales of children with their rich green leaves, stems tinged with red and the brown, dead leaves hanging still in the greenery. Small hairs on the leaves balance dew drops delicately and the forest floor is rich in hummus.

The mists can often come in at this point, slinking down the crags, bringing with them a chilly breeze. Fleece and raincoat on, we are ready for the ‘stairways in the mist,’ wooden stairs and ladders, complete with ropes, set into the steep ridges as you begin the summit push to the first crag. At nearly 3,500m you come upon a small bamboo shelter, a hut where you can wolf down energy bars and sandwiches, perhaps a flask of hot, sugared tea if you were organised.

More stairs and ladders give stability and outline a way forward in the mist as you climb to the second peak.

Here, if you are lucky, and we were, the mist began to clear and once again the blue sky opened up to us. This meant the tri-border third peak (3,669m), the ultimate goal, shared by Uganda, Rwanda and DRC is yours beneath the blue. Mountains to the left of you, mountains to the right, here you are in a twister pose – your left hand in Rwanda, your right foot in DRC, your left foot in Uganda and your right hand punching that blue sky!

Sitting by the crackling fire that evening, aching but triumphant, you plan the next day’s hike.

Muhaburo volcano with Gahinga and Sabinyo behind.

The Bamboo Forests of Sabinyo.

Gahinga, the volcano with a swamp inside. It’s a conical mound that looks like an easy climb, it’s the smallest volcano of the three with its name translating as ‘a small pile of stones.’ Nevertheless, it’s a gorgeous and more relaxed climb. This time we are not swaddled by mists, instead the sun-shafts capture the golden backs of a troop of feeding golden monkeys that we come across in the bamboo forests. They completely ignored our presence as they fed with delicate hands and inquisitive, darting eyes. But trekking the habituated golden monkey troop is a whole different adventure, and so upwards we trekked, leaving them behind us.

The beauty of Gahinga’s caldera is almost poetical and, as we came over the lip of the crater, a mass of different greens met the eye – the dark khakis of vegetation set back in the shade on the far side of the pool, the emerald green pond-weed that covers the lake surface, fairy-circles of darker green sketched in. As the sun came out from behind a small cloud, the giant lobelia came into sharp contrast. The Senecio flower heads dance in branched clusters, yellow like the sun while Alchemillia, a low scrubby herb scrambles away from you.

With Sabinyo and Gahinga behind you, it’s worth taking a day of rest on day three before attempting the steep and tough Muhabura. This is an ten-hour climb designed for strong knees, a summit ethos and for those with a goal – to summit Southern Uganda’s three peaks. There is little scenic extravagance at the top, no stairways of mist or sunken calderas filled with greens. If you are training for a marathon, have entered an iron-man or want to impress a significant other, then this is the volcano to climb. Drawn in cone-like shape as if by a child, its steep slopes promise a hard day’s trek.

At 4,127m, the third highest and the steepest, Mount Muhabura or Muhavura, ‘The Sentinel or The Guide’, can be climbed from both

the Rwandan and the Ugandan side. Walking sticks, packed lunch, the right clothing and lots of water will make for an easier and safer climb. Its good to set three targets; hut one at 3,117m, hut two at 3,860m and the summit where altitude sickness can and does kick in.

Volcanic ash and debris support shrubs and thickets upon its foot slopes, buffalo and elephant range to a certain height up its steep sides but the real prize is a cloudless view from the summit: Away to the North Lake Bunyoni with all its inlets and islands can be seen, Lake Mutanda stretches towards the green forest island of the Bwindi Impenetrable Park. Separating Muhabura from Gahinga in the chain can be seen the Kabiranyuma swamp-river and, right at your feet is Muhabura’s own crater lake, crystal clear and, if you are in with the Wim Hoff cold water swimming trend, you are able to take a wild swim.

The time you get on the summit fully depends on your climb time, the larger forest mammals become more active late afternoon leading into dusk and the encounter risk increases the later down the mountain you are. Remembering too, that to come down such steep slopes is almost as challenging as climbing up – its easy to slip and your knees will not appreciate you!

Alchemilla johnstonii

Lobelia wollastonii

Where Gold meets Silver in Mgahinga NP

Close your eyes and imagine the crisp, cool air of the Virunga Mountains against your bare skin as you trek up into the dense bamboo forests of Mgahinga National Park. As the giant bamboo stems creak and wave in the breeze, look up and you will see many birds’ nests carefully woven or tied, thatched or latched onto the bamboo stems. These bamboo forests, particularly the younger stands, are the realm of the golden monkeys – one of the forest’s enchanting residents.

Mgahinga National Park in Uganda’s

By Hollie M'gog

south is part of the Virunga Massif. Here, extinct volcanoes rise into the sky, thick forest hugs the lower slopes and is filled with the calls of turacos, of thrushes and warblers and a number of endemic species. Up high, sub-alpine vegetation grows on cragged summits and breathtaking ridgelines.

There is simply no forest I have seen in Uganda that matches the sheer atmospheric beauty of Magahinga. Here, the grasslands wave golden, the gnarled trunks of the hagenia trees are carpeted in emerald mosses and

chuckling clearwater streams tumble downwards towards the mountain base. You’ll enter the bamboo zone in a state of high anticipation and there are simply no words for what awaits. With a soft golden brow, a black capped head, a long black tail and a golden body mantle, these monkeys are simply fascinating. When they peer down from the crosshatched bamboo stems with a little white nose and inquisitive, liquid-brown eyes, you can't help but feel singled out, special somehow, as if you've been given a rare glimpse into a magical forest world.

PHOTO: Cheryl Ramalho

The golden monkey (Cercopithecus mitis kandti) is the charismatic cousin of the blue monkey, decked out with a stunning golden-orange patch on its upper flanks and back. It is the most widely distributed guenon on the massif and occupies a variety of forested habitats in the highland regions of the Virunga volcanic mountains, spanning Uganda, Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo. They’re the epitome of high-altitude elegance, thriving in bamboo forests where their favourite snacks – new bamboo shoots – are always within reach.

Life in the Waving Bamboo

The striking golden monkey is a social primate. The monkey is little understood and is endemic to just two Albertine Rift parks; the Virunga Massif and the Gishwati-Mukura National Park in Rwanda. As in all monkeys, there is fierce competition for females, but in general the resident males seem to exist in a stable and tolerant, egalitarian hierarchy. If you catch them on a cloudy morning, you may find smaller groups of four or so, huddled together at the very top of a thick bamboo stand, but in fact, as the day warms, the group comes together leaping from stem to stem, foraging for food. Here and there they pause to groom one another, sifting delicate fingers through golden fur.

It's playtime that is the most fascinating to watch: The bamboo stand becomes a veritable playground, each stalk bending and swaying under the weight of the suddenly playful primates. On the ground, a pair of juveniles engage in a friendly tussle, rolling and tumbling over each other across the soft carpet of fallen bamboo leaves. Watching the Golden monkeys in their natural habitat, it’s clear that their days are filled with a mix of play, foraging, and social bonding. Their lively behaviour is not just entertaining but also

essential for their development and well-being.

Driven by a love of bamboo (and occasionally potatoes from fields neighbouring the park), these good-looking guenons ascend and descend the mountain depending on where the shoots are at their youngest and finest. Now and then when a forest tree fruits, like all primates, they struggle to resist the call of sugar and migrate to the fruit-laden figs or other forest tree species. There is in fact no place greater to watch forest wildlife; birds, primates, mammals and insects, than beneath a fruiting fig.

Trekking a Habituated Troop

The Virunga Massif is part of a chain of high-altitude volcanoes and a certain level of fitness is required. You may not be summiting Muhbura, but you’ll still be testing out those lungs and calves of yours! A ranger, a tracker and one of the habituation team will guide and accompany you into the forest and, as the sun dries the silver drops of dew on the strands of oldmans-beard, its rays warming your

shoulders too, you’ll be caught up in an exquisite moment: The melody of a huge variety of birds, the colours of their feathers in the scattered sunbeams as they dart from perch to perch, the scratching of skinks in the dry leaves as they search out sunning posts and the absence of human noise.

Yes, the trek can be a moderate challenge, with steep slopes and dense underbrush, but the payoff is worth every step.

CLOCKWISE: Golden Monkeys

PHOTO: Shiny Tighe

Did You Know?

• There are 17 subspecies of the Blue monkey, one of which is categorised as Critically Endangered on the IUCN Red List, four as Endangered and three as Vulnerable

• Blue monkeys are omnivorous, with a preference for fruit, which enables them to cope with fluctuating resource availability in fragmented habitats

• The Golden Monkey, which some taxonomists argue is a separate species, prefer bamboo Yushania alpina and mixed tropical montane forest

• Golden Monkeys are primarily folivorous, selecting especially young leaves. They eat fruit when available as well as flowers, bark and sometimes insects. They will raid potato crops and will opportunistically eat bird eggs and soil when they require certain minerals.

Conservation at Work

Golden monkeys are listed as endangered, their populations threatened mainly by habitat destruction. Mgahinga Gorilla National Park is a critical sanctuary for these primates and trekking contributes directly to their conservation. By visiting, you’re supporting efforts to protect their habitat and ensure their survival. The actual trek starts at 8am. Unlike gorilla trekking, hiking through the forests to see the golden monkeys is less strenuous since they live in lower areas, limiting the trek to no more than 3 hours. Once the golden monkey family is encountered, tourists have one hour to observe their behaviour and take photographs. There is no minimum number of tourists required for each group, and the age limit for participants is 12 years.

AeroLink flies to Kisoro where there are many activities that can be engaged in from birding to trekking mountain gorillas or Golden monkeys, canoeing the length of Lake Mutanda, summiting the three volcanoes or exploring the Sabinyo Gorge. Cultural activities include a day in the forest with the Batwa, one indigenous forest community, visiting the 14m deep, 342m long Garama Cave in which the Batwa took shelter on and off for many years.

Samburu: The Story of a River, an Elephant and a Lodge

By Hollie M'gog

When I close my eyes and think of the images that the word Africa evokes, it is vast and shallow sand rivers with herds of elephants crossing, the branched doum palm waving, sentinel like along the river edges and long, golden grass where the twitching ears of a lioness can be seen if you are a good spotter. It is warm red sunsets with dust in the air and the chirping of the white-browed sparrow weaver in the dusk. I think of crocodiles basking on the warm river banks, mouths open, fearing nothing. Fish eagles calling, head thrown back into the blue, blue sky. Crystal clear natural springs where fish nibble you and giraffe wander nonchalantly past.

This is the Africa of my dreams and

it is all there as I look out upon the Ewaso Ng’iro (Nyiro) river from the coffee deck at Elephant Bedroom in Samburu. The Ewaso is a river whose name encapsulates its waters fully; ‘brown or muddy’ indeed. Fed by the glaciers of Mount Kenya, the snow melt turns muddy as it flows initially North into Lake Ol Bolossat then east into the Lorian swamp where it disappears underground, re-emerging in Somalia. In Somalia it flows into the Jubba River before it finishes its 700km journey just North of Kisamayo on the Indian Ocean.

This vast sand river is a fundamental feature in the survival of people and wildlife, a lifeline in the seven arid and semi-arid landscapes it crosses, and,

in the arid north of Kenya, water is synonymous with life itself.

Samburu, Obama and Barais are the affectionate names given by the lodge staff to three elephant bulls that frequent the camp. As we drove in, Obama-in-musth met us standing so resolutely on the entry path that, loaded with bags, we had to sidle along back paths and through seeding grass to reach the mess area. Obama is famous for his loud, night-time snoring as he stretches out, full length and on his side by tent number ten from midnight into the early hours of the morning. Samburu and Obama often frequent the al fresco dining sands beneath the Vachellia (Acacia)

elatior. Barais was not in favour with the other elephant bulls while we visited, and early one afternoon, as we sipped rich tomato juices dashed with vodka, salt, pepper, lime and Tabasco sauce, he nonchalantly and lazily serpentined his dextrous trunk up and around a fallen log and gazed across the river while a small troop of banded mongooses squeaked as they searched for food. Obama noticed this loitering and came in from behind giving him an elephant sized nudge that sent him, in no uncertain terms, packing across the river with trumpets of surprise!

Tamu, a wonderfully trusting female impala lost her mother to one of the predators that make the Samburu region famous, in response she

ingratiated herself into the ‘herd’ of askaris (guards), by day patrolling along the sandy paths, nibbling on greenery as the guests are ushered safely past a breeding herd of elephant here and a lone bull there. At night she curls up in the light of a kerosene lantern with her crew and seems to sleep soundly.

Samburu County is incredibly special as it is the transition zone between the cold lushness of the Laikipia Plateau and the dry-aridness of the North, it is the bridge between savannah and desert, the county itself extending from the southern borders of Laikipia and Isiolo counties to the southern shores of Lake Turkana in the north. The hot weather and minimal rainfall, with the river snaking through, makes the landscape simply astonishing;

rugged, rocky, dusty and bedecked with hills. This landscape, the flowing river, the structurally intact vegetation provides for hundreds of species of birds, some found just here. Golds and indigos, blues and iridescent colours that glimmer in the dusty hues of sunlight that the Samburu region is known for.

The community conservancies that surround Samburu, Buffalo Springs and Shaba mean that over 10,000km2 of land is protected. This is critical for both the water tables that sustain the region and the migratory corridors that allow the prolific wildlife that occurs here. There are 20-30 cheetahs between the three parks and over 100 in Samburu and Isiolo counties alone. Lions, leopards, even the striped hyena and a pack or two

PHOTO: Mary Wyktra

of African wild dog can be found if you are lucky.

Many visitors in the know will come to see the Samburu Special Five; the blue-necked Somali ostrich, now its very own species, the swara twiga (giraffe-antelope) or the gerenuk is simply incredible to see as it stretches its long neck to new browse lines. The reticulated giraffe and the Grevy’s zebra are iconic of the dry season photos of the region, bold and beautiful in their russet brown and pied colours against the verdant riverine forest. Finally, the common Beisa oryx, one of the two sub-species in Kenya, collect in royal herds of fifty plus and lure in the oxpeckers.

If the Ewaso river is the string upon which the Samburu beads are threaded, then the lodges are the beads themselves. Samburu Lodges range from privately upmarket to easily affordable, from park-run campsites to exclusive retreats so discreet that booking them requires knowing the right number to call.

Samburu is a place where nature's artistry in all its stripes and rosettes, converge with both the wild and wandering ways of a river that is followed by herbivores and they in turn by the predators. Beside these exists the indomitable will of the Loikop (Samburu) people, people whose link to the elephant goes back in folklore time. The Loikop people, for most of the past, followed the rains with their domestic herds, a lifestyle similar to that of the Maasai; their language a dialect of Maa, the language of the Maasai people.

That these protected areas, Samburu

being just one of them, face ongoing challenges in no secret. Drought, the pressures of sprawling numbers of people whose desire for resources and livestock is insatiable, new roads, growing tourism, rural electrification and poaching, both for bushmeat and ivory, all crowd and jostle around the protected areas of the North; but the communities here are coming together for the greater good of the ecosystem. Change can be seen and you too dear traveller can be part of that change. Look out for places where you may invest in the future of a landscape that is as special as it is unique. As delicate as it is resilient.

How to get there

AirKenya operates daily flights from Wilson Airport to Samburu and its surrounding conservancies.

Discover the best of Kenya, Uganda, and Tanzania with our unparalleled regional network. AirKenya, Aerolink, and Regional Air offer seamless connections between iconic safari destinations like the Maasai Mara, Serengeti National Park, and Bwindi Impenetrable Forest.

Experience the ultimate East African adventure with our coordinated schedules and exceptional service.

Mt Kenya Safari Club Perfect Days: Children, Grandparents, Weddings & Weekends Away

Princesses, kings, mafia and sheiks have walked these lawns, secret pacts have been made (and probably broken) here.

By Hollie M'gog

Sometimes, hidden away in plain sight is a place so perfect for all occasions, and so full of things to do, that one needs to visit again. And again.

Mt Kenya Safari Club is that place. Opulence juxtapositioned against the wilds of Africa, shaggy forest against meticulously manicured lawns and golf; sandwiches and carrot-sticks by the lake or frosty-topped martinis before a glacial view.

Mt Kenya Safari Club is a destination

where one can feast on tranquillity and serenity, breathe in the pure air of Podocarpus forests, listen to the sounds of the birds, the burbling stream or breakfast with the bongos. Peacocks from India strut the perimeter of lush, expansive lawns. A man-made lake reflects the three peaks of the mountain while history, told in tales of gabled roofs, white chimneys straining in competition with Kirninyaga’s peaks, wrought-iron latticed balconies and beautifully

curved and wooden-framed windows stretching floor to ceiling.

There is a mix of authentic, old-style and aristocratic; a magnificent driveway and entrance foyer that make for memorable photos, looked upon by grand, white-washed walls upon which climb tropical flowering creepers. Adventure, Luxury and awesome beauty, those are the givens. Historical chic, sophisticated elegance or wild exuberance – that is for you to decide.

The William Holden cottages are a home away from home, two bed, two bath with a cozy fireplace in the living rooms and a verandah that catches the morning sun. The Garden Suites have private terraces overlooking lush lawns. The Riverside Suites can link families together and are tucked into the meanders of a chuckling stream. There are of course luxury and a presidential suite within the main building too.

Children and teenagers can leave parents in peace and attend the raucously fun kids-club/teen-zone afternoons and evenings. Fishing for tilapia and mud-fish, lawn croquet, karaoke, movies, board games, Lego building or bird feeding. (There are well-serviced rooms for nannies and drivers). Parents can engage in a game of tennis, take time out with Bernice and Lillian at the spa or sip cocktails at The Zebar.

For the supple bodied or the aspiring fit-body crew, there is yoga in the rose garden through which the Equator runs, or a fully kitted-out gym followed by fifty lengths in the heated family-friendly pool. There are

numerous running trails, tame and wild, through manicured grounds or up into the Podocarpus forests of the Mt Kenya forest reserve.

Birthdays, both adult and children, anniversaries, hen and stag dos, even simple gatherings can be feted out at dawn, mid-afternoon and dusk in any one of the many private locations exclusively accessed by Club guests. Perhaps a late afternoon picnic lunch up in the forest reserve with Mt Kenya standing proud behind and a view of the forest and its clearings; zebra, bushbuck, warthog and the occasional buffalo a potential picnic visitor.

Or a wild dining bush dinner, Argentinian BBQ or wood-fired pizzas, around an open campfire, with spectacular views of lush riverine foliage illuminated by lanterns and dancing forest shadows on the banks of River Likii.

Sundowners at Kimani Boma are popular, preceded by a perhaps a nature walk, a cycle ride or a-top one of the club’s trail horses. Here you walk, cycle or ride amongst the blonde leucistic zebras on the

conservancy, zebras with very low levels of melanin that flushes out their black stripes. The Maasai giraffe journey gracefully across the grasslands and a KWS ranger escorts you, so as to add a pair of scanning eyes for the buffalo that are now used to guests within their domain.

The animal orphanage is a great draw to children, adults and school groups. Chui the petite three-legged

Historical extravagance with a splash of decadence

leopard is expert at climbing to the very top of her tree and allowing guests to attempt to find her … even when you know exactly where her tail is hanging, she is hard to piece together. The giant tortoise munches a number of cucumbers a day, the sykes monkeys squeeze in an out of their cage bars as they please, on the inside now, on the outside now! The buck-toothed and goofy alpacas, although not natively African, give great entertainment to many local school children. The ostrich demands feed-nuts and the young Bongo (Jupiter’s female protégé) nuzzles with the orphaned buffalo calf and are extremely friendly to guests … but visit soon as these orphans grow up quickly and then find their freedom in the conservancy bounds.

There are for me however, two highlights here at the Mount Kenya Safari Club that simply cannot be missed; a morning walk with the resident golden labradors, Flora and Fauna. A walk excitingly full of smells and a treat for those who do not have the privilege of having dogs at home. Walking the labs allows a whole host of new skills to develop in shy and less-confident children, teens and young adults. The dog handlers are welcoming and wear huge smiles as they engage and show off Flora and Fauna’s growing range of tricks. Often these lush walks happen upon habituated shaggy black-and-while

colobus frolicking on the ground and amongst the trees.

The second is a bush breakfast with the Bongos, an antelope you may never have heard of! Bongos (Tragelaphus eurycerus) are the largest and heaviest African forest-dwelling, spiral-horned, nocturnal antelope. There are estimated to be just one hundred individuals remaining, their numbers being supplemented using a captive breeding program spearheaded in the Mount Kenya Safari Club conservancy. Breakfast could be beside a dam, beneath an Acacia on haybales covered with picnic blankets, Mt Kenya as sentinel behind you if the day is clear. As you sip creamy Kenyan coffee and munch on a cheese platter with a full English to follow, one cheeky ostrich, some brazen warthogs and a herd of bongo will wander in to feed, squabble and drink water. Knowing that you are literally watching a species climbing

back from the brink of extinction lends a flutter to the soul – at least it does to mine!

There is space to let the outside in too! Mount Kenya Safari Lodge is only an hours drive from the waterfalls and forest canopy walk of Ngare Ndare Forest or Solio, from the sniffer dog K9 team and the rarest white rhino on Earth at Ol Pejeta. Samburu and Buffalo Springs are but a two hour jump away and host herds of elephants, the highest density of cheetahs in the North, even perhaps a pack of wild dog or a striped hyena if you are lucky!

And finally, where there is play, there must be work too. Fairmont Mount Kenya Safari Club is an exclusive choice in Nanyuki for corporate and private events of up to 300 guests. Professional event planning and catering help make flawless memories.

A wedding should be extra-ordinary and memorable, set in a place of beauty. Exquisite to the guests and extra special for the bride and groom. From alter design to backdrop, seating arrangements to florals, MKSC offers lavish or small but always exquisite. Expert planning can provide a dramatic ceremony structure or a simple one with individual style. From blossoms to bouquets, ballrooms and terraces, intimate or grand, colourful, floral, large or secluded; the choice and the flow is all yours.

Food is a big thing, and with the practice of over a century and a royal flush of chefs who excel across a range of flavours and foods, the chefs can bring to your palate not only the culinary excellence that you may seek, but also a look and feel, perfected presentation and ambiance, of canapes and buffets, sit-down meals in versatile spaces with cosmopolitan vibes or intimate luxury, timeless glamour or even rustic romance.

If you are throwing an event, celebrating, then what you want is a sense of place with a personal touch, where planning, design and décor can be themed classic, timeless, vintage or even bohemian. The leleshwa infused scenery of Mt Kenya’s mountain slopes casts fairy-dust upon any festivities.

On their one-hundred acres of land, MKSC offers unparalleled relaxation, exploration and activity with a choice of horse-rides with zebras, bush dinners beneath the watchful eyes of towers of giraffes; there is swimming, walking, golf and all this alongside spa therapies and timeless cocktails on picturesque patios with old-world charm.

If you are treating the in-laws or the grandparents then an indulgent location is pivotal in providing unforgettable. A great location needs to allow for a flow of events, from one garden to another down picturesque paths.

Historic Depths and Submerged Stories Scuba Secrets off Zanzibar's Stone Town

By Hollie Mgog

Bubbles fled from me as I slowly descended into the not-too-deep depths of a dive site near Bawe Island off Stone Town. As I became comfortable with the gentle pressure of the ocean’s embrace I gazed about me, my breath finding its own slow and comforting rhythm. A school of fish danced alongside me, their shimmering scales catching the light in fleeting moments of brilliance. My dive buddies, just two of them, were on their 18th and 33rd dives here. This was my first. I looked towards my One Ocean dive master and with the OK signal, the dive site became mine to explore.

There are names of certain places that echo with history and allure, they tempt the imagination, trick the mind into all sorts of imagery. Zanzibar

is one of those places: Your mind immediately conjures up white-sand beaches, smorgasbords of fresh seafood, dhows with billowing white sails, kaleidoscopes of colour above and below the waves, full moon parties, wind that is just right for kiting or peace and quiet as the palm leaves rasp in the breeze.

Said together with its island home, Stone Town Zanzibar conjures up images of historic alleyways, the call to prayer ringing from minarets, shabby cats in grand carved doorways, ancient buildings that tell tales of an historic age past – bloodshed, riches, happiness and sadness. Ghosts and ancestors roam the walkways of Stone Town alongside each tourist, each resident, each swaying feline, each rough-throated corvid.

But Stone Town’s adventures should not remain land-based. Not many realise the quality of the diving just off its main shoreline – most divers have planned a dive or three on the Mnemba Atoll or up in Kendwa or Nungwi or even on the West of the island off Tumbatu. These all-offer colour and fish, coral and eels, perhaps even turtles and dolphins, but Stone Town’s 10+ dive sites offer all this and more … so many fewer people know of these dive sites that you’ll have them all to yourself.

Corals are oft described as gardens, vibrant tapestries of colour and life, to me here they appeared as gullies and cliffs interspersed with sandy patches where huge barrel sponges reigned supreme. At moments, with a keen eye I could pick up the shape of a concealed

ray in the sand. Crustaceans clicked and crunched about their business, perfectly audible in this liquid realm. Time began to lose its grip, only my periodic checking of my remaining air kept me with reality.

‘What is this life, if full of care, you have no time to stand and stare’ and stare I did as the words of W. H. Davies' famous poem filtered through my mind. Longfin batfish cruised by in the blue, while below me a seahorse had wrapped its delicate tail around a filament between two blue sponges. A funny looking pipefish seemed to peer down its snout at me, a look of entitlement. I was his visitor and he wasn’t pulling out the family silver! Nudibranchs, their colours and shapes were easily spotted and then we came upon the cuttlefish … wow!

We have all found cuttlefish washed up on the beach by the ocean’s waves, smooth and powdery, uninspiring but useful to chickens back home. You can’t quite believe it’s the same animal when you see it living – flamenco-like colour-changing skirt and these long tentacles that come together at the front to form a friendly dog-like snout topped

by curious eyes. Bands of colour flashed across their skin, this being how cuttlefish communicate, as one larger male protected a female from a smaller male, determined to get in on the action. My interpretations of the whole incident of course, being very different to what was described to me back up on the dive-boat, sweet pineapple in one hand, iced coconut slices in the other.

As we lay on the swaying roof of the dive boat, warming up after two tropical dives, Sam and Silvia described to me several other dive sites (just to whet my appetite I think). Aquarium, Two Stones and Pinnacles. Trumpet fish, gobies and lobsters living on a vibrant coral wall with schools of fusiliers and silver sweetlips hanging out in the blue. Lionfish, scorpionfish and stonefish attract many, and these can be easily seen at Two Stones where the undersea coral mountains create a current that is perfect for a drift-dive. Here too, titan triggerfish and blue spotted stingrays are often seen. If you’re lucky, the elusive whip coral shrimp too. Depending on the season, the rains and the food availability, the site (and you) can be visited by vast

schools of jacks and anchovies, that turn your dive into a spectacle … with few or no other audience members! For divers who like to probe and turn at bizarre angles to look into crevices, all without touching the corals or the sea life (One Ocean is especially strict with ethics), dusky sweepers, guitar fish and fusiliers can be trailed through incredible coral architectural designs at Pinnacles, a real exploration of the extraordinary.

Be you a diver with any fascination; gentle and thoughtful dives, wrecks (deep or shallow, historical or deliberately sunk), shallow reef stretches, deeper coral bommies, vibrant coral walls, coral topographies with pillars, overhangs and arches, Stone Town’s diverse sites offer it all and One Ocean knows just where to take you.

And it doesn’t stop there, why not traverse the islands dive sites with a One Ocean package that includes dives off Stone Town, dives up in the North off Mnemba Atoll and dives on the neighbouring island of Mafia, away from the crowds, seeking to explore coral gardens in peace.

Mafia Island: Diving the Unreal

Zanzibar attracts the tourism masses, and for good reason, but Mafia goes above and beyond, offering more than any diver can find off Zanzibar. By the very fact that it is a little harder to get to, approximately 200 kilometres south of Zanzibar, the Mafia Archipelago, with its mangrove swamps, coastal forests, scrub and grasslands has protected its associated marine ecosystem since 2005. The Mafia Marine Park is Tanzania's oldest and largest marine protected area. The thriving coral reefs and abundance of marine life makes the diving and snorkelling here both unrivalled and unparalleled.

On the shorelines, the intertidal pools are vibrant and full of life, the wetlands teem with visiting migrant birds, the mangroves are nurseries for fish of all varieties, pods of hundreds of reef sharks coming in to feed and for shelter. The coastal forests are home to many bird species and ring with the calls of fruit bats at night. Mafia Island is mentioned first in the 8th Century and played a major role in trade, so cultural sites are rich in tales of treachery and treason; escape and intrigue.

Back out on the ocean, in the right season, visitors can snorkel alongside giant whale sharks, blow bubbles beside four hundred different species of fish, witness the nesting and hatching of sea turtles and marvel at passing humpback whales. Founded in 2012, One Ocean’s Mafia Island Diving is a community-focused and environmentally conscious dive centre. For over a decade, this dive centre has curated courses, trips and excursions that fit to the skill levels of any diver or snorkeller. The turtles, barracuda schools and giant groupers, the smaller nudibranchs and seahorses bring our guests back, again and again.

Between dives and beneath the

tropical sun, island sightseeing, sandbank picnics, ethically trailing the seasonal humpback whales, witnessing the night-time turtle hatchings or sunset dhow floats enrich any experience.

Operating from traditional dhows, Mafia Island Diving blends centuries of maritime heritage with modern expertise, providing an authentic and immersive experience. The dive centre contributes significantly to Mafia community development by hiring locally. Over the years, Mafia Island Diving has invested in the training of more than fifty Tanzanians through various programs, with fifteen achieving professional dive certifications.

To Dive or not to Dive in Stone Town, Zanzibar

Far from the madding crowd … in a Yellow Submarine

It’s sunset, the sky is turning to ochre and the picturesque skyline of Stone Town is a slowly-moving canvas backdrop to chilled champagne, iced beers, crunchy fried coconut slices, sweet-syrupy pineapple and good conversation amongst friends.

Gazing on Stone Town is looking at once back into history and forward into the modern world. The waters you float upon have been plied for thousands of years; sultans and

By Hollie M'gog

princes, slaves and slave-masters, free men and women have sailed here before you. Fishermen have harvested their bounty; nets have endlessly, for lifetimes, caught the fish that live in the reefs off-shore. The architecture stands testament to centuries of history and influences. Zanzibar is the very tale of cultural convergence and maritime trade.

There is the Old Fort, built by the Omani Arabs in 1699, weathered yet

resilient, that looms against the sky. Built in the 17th century to guard against Portuguese invasions, it now serves as a cultural centre, its coral rag walls echoing with the whispers of bygone eras. The House of Wonders was originally built as a palace for the Sultan, it earned its moniker as the first building in Zanzibar to embrace electricity and an elevator. This grand edifice, with its intricate balconies and arched windows, is a symphony of Arab, Persian, Indian

and European influences, a living testament to the island's rich ancient tapestry. The minarets of historic mosques gracefully pierce the skyline, their slender forms adding an elegant touch. Among them, the Old Slave Market Mosque, a poignant reminder of Zanzibar's complex past, where the echoes of the slave trade intertwine with the call to prayer.

Wooden lattice-works, ornate doors, brass studs and the more recent snarls of electric wires, bring into collision a rich Arab-PortugueseSwahili history and modernisation. Each structure, each dome, each weathered stone tells a story — a narrative of trade winds, cultural exchanges and the resilient heartbeat of a coastal town that has withstood the test of time.

It’s sometimes nicer to view the madding crowd from a distance, and Zanzibar Submarine Tours allows you to do just that, with their fleet of 2 (soon to be 3) semi-submersible submarines and 5 fast-like-the-wind Zodiacs. No traditional dhow for this sunset cruise!

Zanzibar’s latest coral-viewing, Schoedinger apparatus is nothing less than a semi-submersible, ¾ submarine; and its pretty darn cool! They offer half and full day excursions in this yellow semisubmersible that allows you to dive

and not dive, see the corals and stay dry simultaneously. With the classic reef trip, you’ll motor slowly out to Bawe island, able to stand on deck in the sunshine, looking back on Stone Town. Captain Barak knows just where he is and will motion you down as he drops his speed to almost nothing. And through the glass, another world comes into view: Seahorses amongst colourful sponges, cuttlefish dancing as if to a deep drumbeat. Waving rainbow runners and longfin batfish may voyage by the large glass windows. If you are lucky, a moray eel may poke his head up from between the corals. Titan triggerfish live amongst barrel sponges and sometimes even a turtle might fin past!

If you’ve booked a reef and beach tour, then you’ll picnic beneath colourful shades and swim from one of the sandbanks that look back towards the historic Stone Town of Zanzibar. The reefs that you can access include Bawe Island, north and south, the royal navy lighter wreck and if you go for the whole day, then aquarium one, two and Murogo Reef. If you really want to escape the crowds and experience something extra special, then picnicking out at Nyange Island with the pinnacle reefs might be something to aim for. Of course, access to any of these depends on the tide-timings of the day … it might be a Miracle Experience but they cannot change the water levels for you, only the moon and the slowly rotating Earth can do that!

PHOTO: Keegan Checks

The inside of the semi-submersible with portholes into the deep

The company also has 5 zodiac speed boats. So aside from the sunset cruise already described, six pax can share the $350/650 cost to hire the Zodiacs for a half or whole day, with no program in mind – to just cruise, bring your snorkelling gear and go snorkelling, have a picnic on a sandbank, motor up the coast and hop-on-hop-off as you wish. Even thrill-seeking-speedchasers are welcome on the 230 and 300hp engine boats!

The food Miracle does is classy –nachos, sweet and salty snacks, Zanzibar-island delights – fresh coconut, lemon-zest tamarind, baobab seeds and of course, coffees and teas, water and soft-drinks and a pay-bar to choose from.

On every trip, because you may just want to enjoy – there is a photographer on board – who is also a diver if you

are submarine bound. He will capture images of you in the submarine from under the water … and this is included in the price.

The Zanzibari leaders and decisionmakers were especially helpful in facilitating this new and different tourism project. The company itself invested $50,000 into renovating the Stone Town harbour front

How to get there

which, in the location of the Zanzibar Submarine Tours offices is called the Cape Town Fish Market. This also included building a new public toilet block and a great restaurant for a wrap-up drink and tale-telling session, before you head into the maze of Stone Town’s history and your hotel after sun, sea, sandbanks and a sensational submarine session.

Regional Air Services offers daily scheduled flights to Zanzibar. It also offers charter services across Tanzania.

Additionally, Regional Air Services provide a daily scheduled connection from Northern Tanzania to Kenya’s Maasai Mara.

FROM TOP CLOCKWISE: A view of corals from the craft; A chance to pilot your own experience!; A view of the semi-submersible taken by the accompanying diver and photographer

Meet the Team

Get to know Alako Brenda, Flight dispatcher and Safety Manager at AeroLink Uganda

What do you enjoy most about your role as a dispatcher/ Safety Manager of Aerolink Uganda, and what are your passions outside of aviation?

As a dispatcher, I enjoy the hands-on aspects of the job and interacting with various industry stakeholders and clients from different nationalities.

As a Safety Manager, I enjoy expanding my network by engaging with top industry officials and staying updated on best practices in aviation safety.

My passion outside of aviation includes spending time with my family, cooking, and ensuring my home runs smoothly.

Can you describe a moment that made you realize the importance of your role in helping passengers experience the beauty and uniqueness of Uganda?

Two months ago, a family flew with us from Kihihi. Unfortunately, one of the lady’s passports was full, and immigration was not allowing her to continue to her next destination.

I stepped in and used my airport connections to assist the client. They were very pleased and gave excellent feedback to their agent. They promised to share their experience with family and friends and expressed interest in returning to Uganda to enjoy the warmth and friendliness of the people.

As a woman who has risen to a leadership position in aviation, what advice do you have for young women aspiring to similar roles?

Life can be challenging, but with determination, hope, and putting God first, anything is possible.

Where do you see yourself in the next five years? Are there any exciting developments or expansions on the horizon (Safety Department)?

I envision myself becoming a pilot within the next five years.

I anticipate growth in Uganda's tourism sector and AeroLink expanding its fleet. With this expansion, I foresee the operations department members specializing into planners and dispatchers as it is in Airkenya. In the safety department, I foresee having an assistant to support me.

What key lessons or experiences from your time as a dispatcher at AeroLink have you carried with you and helped you get a promotion to Safety Manager?

Key lessons as a dispatcher include prioritizing safety above all—there are no shortcuts. My promotion to Safety Manager was achieved through hard work, determination, and discipline.

Can you share a personal story (does not need to link or relate to the airline) about a moment that truly captured the beauty and uniqueness of Uganda for you?

During our internal familiarization trip by road, we had the chance to experience Uganda’s beauty and uniqueness, including the Top of the Falls at Murchison Falls, the Rwenzori Mountains on the horizon as we neared Kasese town, and a leopard we spotted in the Ishasha sector on our way to Kihihi town. This trip allowed me to see the stunning views our clients enjoy while traveling from the airstrips served by AeroLink to the lodges.

Uganda offers a diverse landscape for safari adventures. How do you ensure Aerolink's routes and

experiences showcase the best of what the country has to offer?

As a dispatcher, I follow our established standard operating procedures and ensure the aircraft take off on time. As a safety manager, I regularly train staff on safety protocols and emergency procedures to effectively manage any situations that may arise during flight.

If you could tell me just one thing, what would you tell me?

Even with a busy schedule, we always come back to our families, and we should cherish that.

As Michael J. Fox says, "Family is not an important thing; it's everything."

How has working in the airline industry changed your perspective on travel and experiencing new cultures?

Interacting with passengers from various countries motivates me to want to travel and experience different cultures firsthand.

What is your dream destination in terms of cultural experience and why?

Maasai Mara Game Reserve. I would want to experience the Maasai tradition.

AIRKENYA FLIGHT SCHEDULE 2024

• Daily service; minimum of 2 pax to operate.

• Flight from Amboseli to Wilson connects to Nanyuki, Lewa Downs, Samburu, Meru, and Loisaba at 10:00; Maasai Mara at 10:30 and Kilimanjaro at 13:30.

•

• Daily Service; minimum of 4 pax per sector to operate.

• Kilimanjaro service is non-operational between 16th March – 15th May and 1st Nov – 20th Dec.

• This airport is your gateway to a safari between Kenya & Tanzania as it easily connects to Arusha, Manyara, Kogatende, Lobo with Regional Air Services at 15:30.

10:15 12:15

• Daily service; minimum of 2 pax to operate.

• Arrival and departure times to/from Lewa Downs may vary significantly by up to 45 minutes depending on aircraft routing over multiple airstrips.

• Flight from Lewa to Masai Mara may route via Wilson in low season to connect on the 14:00 flight.

• Flight from Lewa to Wilson connects to Kilimanjaro at 13:30 and to Masai Mara at 14:00.

• Flight from Masai Mara connects to Lewa via Wilson at 10:00.

• Call Airkenya operations on departure date to confirm arrival and pick up times for various airstrips.

• Daily Service; minimum of 2 pax to operate.

• Special offer applies to flight departing Wilson at 07:30 and from Mara at 14:45.

• The inbound flight Masai Mara to Wilson arriving at 09:45 connects to our Wilson-Northern Kenya Services ie. Lewa, Loisaba, Meru, Nanyuki and Samburu at 10:00.

• Masai Mara services op erates into multiple airstrips, therefore timings may vary depending on aircraft routing.

• The arrival and departure times depict the first stop.

• Call Airkenya operations on departure date to confirm arrival and pick up times for various airstrips.

vary significantly by up to 45

depending on aircraft routing over multiple airstrips.

• Flight from Loisaba to Masai Mara may route via Wilson in low season to connect on the 14:00

• Flight from Loisaba to Wilson connects to Kilimanjaro at 13:30 and to Masai Mara at 14:00.

• Flight from Masai Mara connects to Loisaba via Wilson at 10:00.

• Call Airkenya operations on departure date to confirm

for various airstrips.

• Daily service; minimum of 2 pax to operate.

• Arrival and departure times to/from Meru may vary significantly by up to 45 minutes depending on aircraft routing over multiple airstrips.

• Flight from Meru to Masai Mara may route via Wilson in low season to connect on the 14:00 flight.

• Flight from Meru to Wilson connects to Kilimanjaro at 13:30 and to Masai Mara at 14:00.

• Flight from Meru to Samburu is a one-direction service.

• Flight from Masai Mara connects to Meru via Wilson at 10:00.

• Call Airkenya operations on departure date to confirm arrival and pick up times for various airstrips.

NANYUKI / KAMOK

• Daily Service; minimum of 2 pax to operate.

• The inbound flight Masai Mara to Wilson arriving at 09:45 connects to our Wilson-Northern Kenya Services i.e Lewa, Loisaba, Meru, Nanyuki and Samburu at 10:00.

• Masai Mara services operates into multiple airstrips, therefore timings may vary depending on aircraft routing.

• The arrival and departure times depict the first stop.

• Call Airkenya operations on departure date to confirm arrival and pick up times for various airstrips.

• Daily service to Nanyuiki Civil and Kamok airstrips; minimum of 2 pax to operate.

• Arrival and departure times to/from Nanyuki/Kamok may vary significantly by up to 45 minutes depending on aircraft routing over multiple airstrips.

• Flight from Nanyuki Civil/Kamok to Masai Mara may route via Wilson in low season to connect on the 14:00 flight.

• Flight from Nanyuki Civil/Kamok to Wilson connects to Kilimanjaro at 13:30 and to Masai Mara at 14:00.

• Flight from Masai Mara connects to Nanyuki Civil/Kamok via Wilson at 10:00.

• Call Airkenya operations on departure date to confirm arrival and pick up times for various airstrips.

AIRKENYA FLIGHT SCHEDULE 2024

FLT NO FROM TO DEPART ARRIVE

P2 861 WILSON SAMBURU 09:00 10:00

P2 871 WILSON SAMBURU 10:00 11:00

P2 872 SAMBURU WILSON 11:15 13:25

P2 862 SAMBURU MASAI MARA 10:15 12:15

• Daily service to Samburu Kalama; minimum of 2 pax to operate.

• Arrival and departure times to/from Samburu may vary significantly by up to 45 minutes depending on aircraft routing over multiple airstripes.

• Flight from Samburu Kalama to Masai Mara may route via Wilson in low season to connect on the 14:00 flight.

• Flight from Samburu Kalama to Wilson connects to Kilimanjaro at 13:30 and to Masai Mara at 14:00.

• You can now connect to Samburu Kalama from Masai Mara via Wilson on the morning flight at 10:00.

• Call Airkenya operations on departure date to confirm arrival and pick up times for various airstrips. MIGORI / TARIME

• Daily Service; minimum of 2 pax to operate except 1st April - 31st May & 1st Nov - 20th Dec requires minimum 4 pax.

• Service operates into multiple airstrips therefore timings may vary depending on aircraft routing.

• The service connects AirKenya Masai Mara services with Regional Air /Auric Air/ Coastal Aviation Serengeti services.

12:40

P2/N8 453/432 MASAI MARA MANYARA 08:15 12:00 N8/P2 431/454 MANYARA MASAI MARA 08:40 12:40

P2/N8 453/422 MASAI MARA FORT IKOMA 08:15 11:20

N8/P2 421/454 FORT IKOMA MASAI MARA 09:15 12:40

P2/N8 453/422 MASAI MARA NDUTU 08:15 11:45

N8/P2 115/454 NDUTU MASAI MARA 08:00 12:40

P2/N8 453/422 MASAI MARA LOBO 08:15 11:20

N8/P2 421/454 LOBO MASAI MARA 09:15 12:40

P2/N8 453/422 MASAI MARA SERENGETI SOUTH 08:15 11:20

N8/P2 421/454 SERENGETI SOUTH MASAI MARA 09:15 12:40

P2/N8 453/422 MASAI MARA SASAKWA 08:15 11:20

N8/P2 421/454 SASAKWA MASAI MARA 09:15 12:40

P2/N8 453/422 MASAI MARA GRUMETI 08:15 11:20

N8/P2 421/454 GRUMETI MASAI MARA 09:15 12:40

• Daily Service; minimum of 2 pax to operate except 1st April - 31st May & 1st Nov - 20th Dec requires minimum 4 pax.

• Flight services route via Migori and Tarime.

• AirKenya provides road transfer and handling between Migori and Tarime.

• Service operates into multiple airstrips therefore pick up and drop off timings may vary depending on aircraft routing.

• The service connects AirKenya Masai Mara services with Regional Air /Auric Air/ Coastal Aviation Serengeti services.

MASAI MARA - UGANDA VV (VIA KISUMU/ENTEBBE)

FLT NO FROM TO DEPART ARRIVE

P2 551 MASAI MARA KISUMU 08:15 09:20

P2 552 KISUMU MASAI MARA 13:25 14:30

P2 551 MASAI MARA ENTEBBE 08:15 11:00

P2 552 ENTEBBE MASAI MARA 11:45 14:30

P2 551 KISUMU ENTEBBE 10:00 11:00

P2 552 ENTEBBE KISUMU 11:45 12:45

P2/A8* 551/121 MASAI MARA KIHIHI (BINP) 08:15 14:40

A8*/P2 112/552 KIHIHI MASAI MARA 09:45 14:30

P2/A8* 551/ 121 MASAI MARA KASESE/MWEYA (QENP) 08:15 14:15

A8*/P2 112/552 KASESE/MWEYA MASAI MARA 10:20 14:30

P2/A8* 551/131 MASAI MARA BUGUNGU 08:15 13:00

P2/A8* 551/131 MASAI MARA PAKUBA/CHOBE (MFNP) 08:15 13:00

P2/ A8* 551/ 131 MASAI MARA KIDEPO (KVNP) 08:15 14:45

P2/A8* 551/131 MASAI MARA PAKUBA/CHOBE (MFNP) 08:15 13:00

P2/ A8* 551/ 131 MASAI MARA KIDEPO (KVNP) 08:15 14:45

• This Service operates between 01st-June- 30th September.

• Mara - Entebbe - Mara Service requires a minimum of 4 pax per sector to operate.

• Entebbe - Kasese Service will require a minimum of 2 pax while Entebbe-Mweya service requires a minimum of 4 pax to operate.

• Entebbe - Kidepo Service will require a minimum of 7 pax and will operate on Wed, Fri and Sun.

• During the period that Bugungu airstrip is closed, we are using Pakuba as the designated alternative airstrip.

• Flight services route via Kisumu and Entebbe Airports for Customs and Immigration.

• Service operates into multiple airstrips therefore pick up and drop off timings may vary depending on aircraft routing.

• Maasai Mara-Entebbe flight service connects the same day to all AeroLink Airstrips except Kisoro which strictly operates in the morning. Early morning flight Kisoro-Entebbe flight service, however, connects the same day into the Masai Mara.

BINP - Bwindi Impenetrable National Park.

QENP - Queen Elizabeth National Park.

MFNP - Murchison Falls National Park.

KVNP - Kidepo Valley National Park.

• CHECK IN TIME is 60 minutes to departure time in Nairobi (Wilson), Kilimanjaro, Kisumu and Entebbe Airports. Passengers will not be allowed to check in 30 minutes to departure time on the mentioned airstrips.

• Check in time for all bush airstrips is 30 minutes before flight departure time.

• Contact Airkenya Operations department on the morning of the scheduled flight to get approximate arrival and departure times for various bush airstrips.

• Airkenya guarantees all its connecting flights within Kenya and across East Africa in conjunction with its subsidiaries; Regional Air Services and Aerolink Uganda.

• Contact the Charter department for tailor-made services or if the scheduled service does not meet your requirements: charters@airkenya.com

• AirKenya reserves the right to change departure times or carrier when so required for operational, weather or safety reasons.

Email resvns@airkenya.com or call +254 (0)20 391 6000 for further clarification.

AIRKENYA AIRCRAFT FLEET

BOMBARDIER DHC 8-202 (DASH 8)

Manufacturer: Bombardier

Crew: 5 (2 pilots, 1 flight attendant, 1 engineer, 1 Baggage Master)

Passengers: Maximum 37

Description: Pressurised aircraft ideal for both African bush and city flying No in Fleet: 2

DHC 7-100 (DASH 7)

Manufacturer: Dehavilland Canada

Crew: 5 (2 Pilots, 2 Flight attendants, 1 Engineer and 1 Baggage Master)

Passengers: Maximum 49

Description: Pressurised STOL (short take-off and landing) aircraft ideal for African bush flying No in Fleet: 2

DHC 6-300 (TWIN OTTER)

Manufacturer: Dehavilland Canada

Crew: 2 pilots

Passengers: Maximum 18

Description: STOL (short take-off & landing) aircraft with fixed landing gear ideal for African bush flying No in Fleet: 3

CESSNA GRAND CARAVAN C208B

Manufacturer: Cessna Aircraft Company

Crew: 2 pilots

Passengers: Maximum 11

Description: STOL Aircraft with fixed undercarriage ideal for African bush flying No in Fleet: 2

5. Lobo 6. Ndutu 7. Seronera

8. Zanzibar 9. Tarime

- Kasese and Mweya airstrips 3. Kibale Forest National Park - Kasese airstrip

KISUMU

MALINDI

DIANI

LAMU

1. Amboseli 2. Kilimanjaro 3. Lewa Downs 4. Masai Mara 5. Meru 6. Nairobi

Nanyuki

Samburu

Migori

Loisaba

Kisumu

Entebbe 1. Bwindi Impenetrable Forest - Kihihi and Kisoro airstrips 2. Queen Elizabeth National Park

4. Murchison Falls National Park

Pakuba and Chobe airstrips 5. Kidepo National Park - Apoka Airstrip 6. Entebbe - Maasai Mara Via Kisumu 1. Arusha 2. Kilimanjaro

Kogatende 4. Lake Manyara

LAKE MBURO NAT. PARK

KIBALE NAT. PARK

JINJA

MBARARA

APOKA KIDEPO

REGIONAL AIR SERVICES

FLIGHT SCHEDULE 2024

SCHEDULE VALID FROM 1ST JANUARY 2024 UPTO 31ST DECEMBER 2024

FROM TO ETD ETA COMMENTS

Arusha AM Kogatende 8:00 9:55

Lobo 8:00 9:25

Manyara 8:00 8:25

Manyara 9:50 10:10 Operated only July & August

Ndutu *** 8:00 9:05

Seronera 8:00 10:30

Kogatende 7:00 7:45 operated only July & August

Kogatende 9:50 11:10 Operated Only July & August

seronera 7:00 8:25 Operated Only July & August

Seronera 9:50 11:50 Operated Only July & August

Arusha PM Kilimanjaro 13:00 13:15

Manyara 16:00 16:25

Seronera 13.00 17:15

Kilimanjaro 13.15 13:30 Operated Only July & August

Arusha Zanzibar 13:00 14:35

Zanzibar 14:30 15:35 Operated Only July & August

Zanzibar Arusha 15:00 16:35 Arusha 16:00 17:05 Operated Only July & August

Kilimanjaro PM Arusha 15:30 15:45

Manyara 15:30 16:25

Seronera 15:30 17:15

Kogatende AM Arusha 10:00 12:15

Arusha 8:05 9:25 Operated only July & August

Arusha 11:30 13:35 Operated only July & August

Kilimanjaro 10:00 13:10

Kilimanjaro 11:30 13:45 Operated only July & August

Lobo 10:00 TBA

Manyara 10:00 11.35

Manyara 11:30 12:55 Operated only July & August

Ndutu *** 10:00 TBA

Seronera 10:00 10:30

Seronera 8:05 8:25 Operated only July & August

Zanzibar 10:00 14:35

Zanzibar 11:30 15:35 Operated only July & August

Tarime 9:15 10:15

Masai Mara 9:15 12:40 Connects with Airkenya at Migori

Seronera AM Arusha 11:00 12:15

Arusha 8:45 9:25 Operated only July & August

Arusha 12:20 13:35 Operated Only July & August

Kilimanjaro 11:00 13:10

Kilimanjaro 12:20 13:45 Operated only July & August

Lobo 9:30 9:50

Manyara 11:00 11:35

Manyara 12:20 12:55 Operated only July & August

Zanzibar 11:00 14:35

Zanzibar 12:20 15:35 Operated Only July & August

Tarime 9:15 10:15

Masai Mara 9:15 12:40 Connects with Airkenya at Migori

Lobo AM Arusha 9:45 12:15

Arusha 9:45 13:35 Operated Only July & August

Kilimanjaro 9:45 13:10

Kilimanjaro 9:45 13:45 Operated only July & August

Kogatende 9:45 9:55

Manyara 9:45 11:35

Ndutu *** 9:45 10:15

Seronera 9:45 10:30

Zanzibar 9:45 14:35

Zanzibar 9:45 15:35 Operated only July & August

Tarime 9:15 10:15

Masai Mara 9:15 12:40 Connects with Airkenya at Migori

Manyara AM Arusha 11:50 12:15

Arusha 13:05 13:35 Operated only July & August

Kilimanjaro 11:50 13:15

Kilimanjaro 13:05 13:45 Operated only July & August

Kogatende 8:40 9:25

Kogatende 10:30 11:10 Operated only July & August

Lobo 8:40 10:20

Ndutu *** 8:40 9:05

Seronera 8:40 10:30

Seronera 10:30 11:50 Operated only July & August

Zanzibar 11:50 14:35

Zanzibar 13:05 15:35 Operated only July & August

Ndutu AM Arusha *** 11:35 12:15

Kilimanjaro *** 11:35 13:10

Kogatende *** 9:20 10:00

Lobo *** 9:20 9:50

Manyara *** 11:35 12:00

Seronera *** 9:20 10:30

Tarime *** 9:15 10:15

Masai Mara*** 9:15 12:40 Connects with Airkenya at Migori

Zanzibar *** 11:35 14:35

Masai Mara Kogatende 8:15 TBA Connects with Regional Air at Tarime

Lobo 8:15 TBA Connects with Regional Air at Tarime

Ndutu*** 8:15 TBA Connects with Regional Air at Tarime

Seronera 8:15 TBA Connects with Regional Air at Tarime

Kilimanjaro PM Ndutu*** 15:30 17:15

Arusha PM Ndutu *** 16:00 17:15

Arusha Nairobi, Wilson 13:00 15:20

Kilimanjaro 14:25 15:20

Lobo 9:45 15:20

Kogatende 10:00 15:20

Manyara 11:50 15:20

Ndutu*** 11:35 15:20

Seronera 11:00 15:20

Kilimanjaro - Wilson Sector Operated by AirKenya Express

Nairobi, Wilson Arusha 13:15 15:45

Kilimanjaro 13:15 14:10

Manyara 13:15 16:25

Seronera 13:15 17:05

Wilson - Kilimanjaro Sector Operated by Airkenya Express

NOTES

• All timings are estimates and will vary depending on aircraft routing more

• *ON REQUEST means we will only operate where there is sufficient traffic to justify the operation and timing or when extra cost is covered

• **ON INDUCEMENT means flights which we will operate at scheduled rates for 4 passengers or more

• ***SEASONAL is June to October and December to March

• ****TBA means time to be advised depending on flight plan that day

• A minimum of 2 pax is required for RAS to operate into any airstrip that’s not on inducement or request.

REGIONAL AIR FLEET

CESSNA GRAND CARAVAN C208B

Manufacturer: Cessna Aircraft Company, USA

Crew: 2 pilots

Passengers: Maximum 12

Description: STOL Aircraft with fixed undercarriage ideal for African bush flying Fleet No.: 2

DHC 6-300 (TWIN OTTER)

Manufacturer: Dehavilland, Canada

Crew: 2 pilots

Passengers: Maximum 18

Description: STOL (short take-off & landing) aircraft with fixed landing gear ideal for African bush flying No in Fleet: 1

BOMBARDIER DHC 8-202 (DASH 8)

Manufacturer: Bombardier

Crew: 4 (2 pilots, 1 flight attendant and 1 engineer)

Passengers: Maximum 37

Description: Pressurized cummuter aircraft Fleet No.: 1

LAKE MBURO NATIONAL PARK

• Timings may vary depending on aircraft routing.

• Minimum of 4 passengers to operate

• Flight 117/118 operate daily except April, May and November

•

• Timings

• Flight 112 from Kihihi passengers can connect onwards to Masai Mara Via Entebbe and Kisumu for Immigration

• Flight 117/118 operate daily except April, May and November

• Flight 121 may route via Murchison Falls National Park subject to loads

• From Kihihi Airstrip passengers can connect to: - Kisoro, Mweya, Kasese and Mbarara airstrips on request at seat rate.

KIBALE FOREST NATIONAL PARK AND QUEEN ELIZABETH NATIONAL PARK

• From Mbarara airstrip, passengers can connect to:- Kisoro, Kihihi Mweya and Kasese airstrips on request at seat rate

MURCHISON FALLS NATIONAL PARK (PAKUBA, CHOBE AIRSTRIPS)

•

• Flight 112 from Kasese/Mweya passengers can connect onwards to Masai Mara Via Entebbe and Kisumu for Immigration Flight

•

• From Mweya Airstrip passengers can connect to: - Kasese, Kihihi, Kisoro and Mbarara airstrips on request at seat rate.

•

• *Routes Via Kisumu for Immigration

• Minimum of 4 passengers to operate

• From Masai Mara, passengers can connect to: Kihihi, Kasese, Mweya, Pakuba, Chobe and Kidepo.

Notes

• CHECK IN TIME is 60 minutes to departure time in Entebbe International Airport.

• Check in time for all bush airstrips is 30 minutes before flight departure time.

• Contact AeroLink Operations department on the morning of the scheduled flight to get approximate arrival and departure times for various bush airstrips.

• AeroLink guarantees all its connecting flights within Uganda and across East africa in conjunction with Airkenya Express.

• Flight to/from Jinja to Kisoro/Kihihi/Kasese/Mweya/ Murchison Falls on request at a surcharge of USD 1000

• AeroLink reserves the right to change departure times or carrier when so required for operational, weather or safety reasons.

• Contact the Charter department for tailor-made services or if the scheduled service does not meet your requirements: info@aerolinkuganda.com

AEROLINK AIRCRAFT FLEET

CESSNA GRAND CARAVAN C208B

Manufacturer: Cessna Aircraft Company, USA

Crew: 2 pilots

Passengers: Maximum 11

Description: STOL Aircraft with fixed undercarriage ideal for African bush flying

No in Fleet: 3

Airkenya Express Limited, Wilson Airport P.O. Box 30357 - 00100 Nairobi, Kenya

Telephone numbers:

Call Centre (Reservations) +254 (0)20 391 6000

(Operations, Sales Marketing & Accounts) +254 (0) 20 3925000, 6005745/6, +254 (0) 206005730 Mobile: +254 (0) 721 415346, 0733 731865, +254 (0) 727 131977

E-mail: resvns@airkenya.com, operations@airkenya.com charters@airkenya.com & helicopters@airkenya.com

Administration: www.airkenya.com

www.regionaltanzania.com

P.O. BOX 689 Entebbe

Tel: +256 31 7333000

Tel: +256 776 8882205

Tel: +256 31 733000

Email: info@aerolinkuganda.com www.aerolinkuganda.com