Located in Naivasha, along Moi South Lake Road, Eseriani Resort has 56 well designed and tastefully furnished accommodation rooms, 8 meeting rooms, 2 Boardrooms, and one main hall, providing exceptional services whether for business or pleasure.
Tel 0741 000111, 0741 000222, 0741 000333 Naivasha, email: resort@eserianihotels.co.ke For bookings and reservations call us today:
Dear Valued Guests,
Welcome aboard as we take you to your chosen destination across East Africa — three countries known for their breathtaking landscapes, vibrant cultures, and incredible wildlife. Each holds its own wonders: from the Great Wildebeest Migration of the Serengeti and Maasai Mara to the majestic peak of Mt. Kilimanjaro and the lush forests of Uganda. Less known is that from the capital, Nairobi, a one-hour flight will take you to the cradle of humankind in Lake Turkana, offering a unique cultural and archaeological experience in Northern Kenya. Similarly, less than an hour from Arusha is Lake Tanganyika, Africa’s deepest freshwater lake, holding Africa’s largest volume of freshwater. And, of course, there's the source of the River Nile in Uganda, the world's longest river. Wherever your journey takes you, we hope you leave with stories that stay with you long after your safari ends.
To us, your safety isn’t just a priority, it’s a promise. Every flight is operated with the utmost care as our teams work tirelessly to ensure your comfort
and peace of mind from take-off to touchdown. Thank you for trusting us — your regional connection to extraordinary experiences.
We’re also thrilled to share some exciting updates: AirKenya Express has expanded its fleet with a new Dash-8 aircraft. The 37-seater Dash 8-200 aircraft brings the number of Dash 8’s in the AirKenya fleet to three and this is the second delivery of its type within the space of two years. The pressurized aircraft marks an improvement to the passenger journey due to its bigger cabin size, faster flying speed, quieter engines, comfortable seating arrangement and onboard washroom facility. Over in Tanzania, Regional Air has added a state-of-the-art Cessna Caravan to its fleet, making your hops between bush airstrips smoother than ever. And in Uganda, AeroLink continues to enhance on customer service by offering a comfortable ride between the terminal building at Entebbe Airport and the aircraft for embarking and disembarking passengers with a brand-new shuttle bus.
In this issue of Ndege News, we invite you to explore Nairobi National Park—a rare gem where lions roam against a backdrop of city skylines. It’s a reminder of how East Africa effortlessly blends wilderness and urban life, much like how we strive to balance adventure with reliability in every flight.
As always, thank you for choosing to fly with us. Now, sit back, relax, and enjoy the journey.
John Kimondo Group Chief Executive Officer
AirKenya Management Team
Karibu
Dear Explorers in Transit,
Welcome aboard!
June in East Africa arrives like a quiet drumbeat — steady, grounding and full of promise. The short rains have turned most of the country green and across the region, landscapes stir with new life. It’s the kind of month that invites you to pause and look twice — at the way mist clings to the slopes of our mountains – Elgon, Mt. Kenya and Kilmanjaro, Mt. Meru and the Bwindi forested hills, or how flamingos seem to scribble neon calligraphy across Lake Natron and Elementaita.
This isn’t peak safari season just yet, and that’s precisely why it’s special. You’ll find fewer crowds and more space to listen — to rustling grasses in Serengeti, to the clink of glass bottles at a soda stand in Moroto, to the laughter of schoolchildren weaving barefoot through a mango orchard.
East Africa offers an unexpected treat this month: the coastal breeze turns cooler, and the narrow alleyways of Zanzibar’s Stone Town feel like a labyrinth of living history. Up north, Marsabit's crater lakes shimmer like mirages in an ancient dreamscape.
The Southern Highlands in Tanzania are all green velvet and soft skies — perfect for slow travel. Iringa’s rock art tells stories older than borders, and the Udzungwa Mountains, teeming with endemic primates, challenge you to see conservation through a hyperlocal lens. Uganda, always full of contradictions, is glorious in June. The Nile swells with energy near Jinja, while the Rwenzoris brood quietly in their cloud-wrapped mystery. Go west to Fort Portal and
you might stumble into a tea harvest, the rhythm of baskets and boots more hypnotic than any playlist.
This issue is a reminder that travel isn’t just about chasing moments — it’s about letting places change your pace. That might mean staying an extra night in a homestay because the rain said so. Or sipping a warm millet brew in Karagwe as elders discuss rainfall patterns instead of sports scores.
So, wherever this flight is taking you — for work, for wonder, or somewhere in between — we hope you take a piece of East Africa’s slow, layered beauty with you.
Here’s to stories that unfold gently and journeys that surprise you.
Karibu to June 2025 — the scenic route is calling.
Hollie M’gog
Editor, Ndege News
Publisher
Editor Hollie M’gog
The Business Platform Ltd P O Box 103364-00101, Nairobi. Tel: 254 -741 070001
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NDEGE which means aeroplane in Kiswahili is a quarterly Magazine publication of AIRKENYA Express Limited
NDEGE which means aeroplane in Kiswahili is a quarterly Magazine publication of AIRKENYA Express Limited
Wilson Airport
P.O. Box 30357 - 00100 Nairobi, Kenya
Reservations
Wilson Airport
Tel: (254-20) 391 6000
P.O. Box 30357 - 00100 Nairobi, Kenya
Email: resvns@airkenya.com
Reservations
Tel: (254-20) 391 6000
Email: resvns@airkenya.com
The magazine focuses on tourism, hospitality, travel, leisure, conservation and aviation related news in the East African region and beyond.
The views expressed in NDEGE NEWS Magazine do not necessarily reflect those of either AIRKENYA EXPRESS, REGIONAL AIR SERVICES and / or AEROLINK UGANDA.
The magazine focuses on tourism, hospitality, travel, leisure, conservation and aviation related news in the East African region and beyond. The views expressed in NDEGE NEWS Magazine do not necessarily reflect those of either AIRKENYA EXPRESS, REGIONAL AIR SERVICES and / or AEROLINK UGANDA.
All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced by any means without permission from the Publisher.
All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced by any means without permission from the Publisher.
Cover My Story
The Art and Inspiration Behind My African Bird Paintings: Christopher Holroyd
East Africa’s birdlife, with its dazzling colours and fascinating habits, has captivated me for years. From the vibrant Lilac-breasted Roller to the powerful African Fish Eagle, the diversity of avian species is as awe-inspiring as the landscapes they inhabit. As an amateur artist, I’ve found both joy and purpose in bringing these birds to life through my photography and paintings, striving to capture their true essence and share their beauty with others.
Observation is the cornerstone of my artistic process. I spend time studying birds in the wild and my photographs of East African birds to understand their physical characteristics, behaviours, and habitats. These observations allow me to accurately depict the intricate details of their feathers, beaks and eyes, ensuring that each painting is a faithful representation of the bird's true essence.
My fascination with birds began in the early 1950s when my father joined Grindlays Bank. I spent my early years in Nairobi, Nakuru, Kisumu and Thika. In my teens, we lived in Masaka, Uganda, and later in Tanga and Zanzibar. While we enjoyed birdwatching as a family, we weren’t particularly avid. After my schooling in the Yorkshire Dales, I joined my parents in Ethiopia, where I spent a year painting birds from skins provided by a local taxidermist. That year culminated in an exhibition at the Addis Hilton, where I shared the space with local artist Afewerk Tekle. My father’s partner bought one painting from each of us. Years later, I visited his widow in Addis, and both paintings still hung on her wall — mine valued at the price she paid, while Tekle’s is now worth tens of thousands of pounds.
Despite living in the UK, most of my life has been spent working across Africa in the financial services industry. Having not painted for forty years I thought I should now in my later years start again! Creating lifelike and captivating bird paintings requires a combination of artistic skill, attention to detail and an understanding of the subject matter.
The composition of a painting plays a crucial role in conveying the bird's natural habits and enhancing the overall visual impact. Instead of paying close attention to the background and the birds’ natural habitat, I take colours from my painting and splatter the background this not only complements the bird but also adds a sense of atmosphere to the paintings. Through my artwork, I aim to raise awareness about the beauty and fragility of African birdlife, inspiring others to appreciate, observe and protect these remarkable species, so often ignored by people on safari looking but only seeing the larger animals.
The journey of painting African birds has been a deeply fulfilling and enriching experience for me as an amateur artist. Each painting is a testament to the awe-inspiring beauty of Africa's avian inhabitants and a tribute to the delicate balance of nature. As I continue to explore and depict the wonders of African bird life, I am reminded of the profound connection between art, nature and conservation. It is my hope that through my artwork, others will be inspired to appreciate and protect the extraordinary birdlife that graces the East African countries I grew up in.
Email: holroydcd@aol.com
Another Dash 8
Welcome 5Y-DBA to the AirKenya family!
We were delighted to take delivery of another Dash 8 into our fleet. The aircraft that will carry the registration, 5Y-DBA, arrived at Wilson Airport on 28th of April 2025 at 1600hrs local time to an exciting aircraft washdown salute with the AirKenya family on hand to celebrate the momentous occasion. The 37-seater Dash 8-200 aircraft, brings the number of Dash 8’s in the AirKenya fleet to three and this is the second delivery of its type within the space of two years. The pressurized aircraft marks an improvement to the passenger journey due to its bigger cabin size, faster flying speed, quieter engines, comfortable seating arrangement and onboard washroom facility.
AirKenya – the best way to fly. Taking you comfortably and safely to all your favourite safari destinations within the region.
Mara-Serengeti Fam Trip
Railway Women’s Golf
On March 15, 2025, Nairobi’s historic Railway Golf Club hosted 100 elite women golfers for the Safari-themed Invitational — a thrilling fusion of sport and adventure. AirKenya, a proud sponsor, championed both women in golf and Kenya’s safari spirit, with the course echoing Africa’s wild beauty. More than a tournament, it celebrated skill, empowerment and the growing legacy of women in the sport.
On February 25, 2025, AirKenya in partnership with Regional Air hosted an exclusive familiarisation (“fam”) trip for a select group of travel agents, giving them firsthand experience of our seamless cross-border service between Kenya’s Maasai Mara and Tanzania’s Serengeti. We showcased how our network combines two of Africa’s greatest wildlife destinations effortlessly.
New Caravan
Big News! We were thrilled to welcome our newest fleet member on 24th January, the Cessna Grand Caravan! This addition brings more comfort, reliability and seamless travel to Tanzania’s top destinations. Hop aboard and get ready for breathtaking scenic flights and unforgettable safaris.
Product Awareness
Z Summit
On February 20, 2025, Zanzibar set the stage for the inaugural Z Summit, a gathering of East Africa’s leading tourism, conservation and aviation stakeholders. Regional Air was honoured to participate, showcasing our growing network of air routes, the personalised services that distinguish us and our commitment to seamless regional connectivity.
On April 30, 2024, Aerolink welcomed travel agents and tourism partners to a Product Awareness Day at Kampala’s Fairway Hotel, showcasing our fleet, new customer service features, and flights connecting Uganda’s premier national parks.
Aerolink
Gets New Van
Aerolink recently added a brand-new shuttle bus van to their ground support fleet, thus enhancing customer service between the airport terminal and the aircraft for embarking and disembarking passengers.
Basecamp Samburu: A New Dawn Beneath Timeless Skies
While millions make their pilgrimage to the Maasai Mara, Samburu remains one of the region's crown jewels. It's here, in this untamed paradise, that Samburu Basecamp is thrilled to introduce the newest member of its portfolio: Basecamp Samburu, that opened its doors in January 2025.
Tucked between two protective ridges in the community owned Kalama Conservancy and facing the sacred Mount Ololokwe, this intimate camp feels like it’s been here forever, though it’s only just begun its story. The location was thoughtfully selected—the natural shelter of the ridges creating a cooling microclimate that offers welcome relief from the Samburu heat.
Luxury here means something different. It’s not about glitz or glamour, but about authenticity and connection. They’ve created spaces that speak to both the adventurous spirit of safari and the rich cultural heritage of the Samburu people.
Petitely proportioned, the lodge’s five suites give it its feeling of exclusivity – offering a rare sense of escape and opportunity for personal connection. Each of the four double tents features a thoughtfully furnished space with an ensuite bathroom and private terrace. The family unit offers an extra touch of luxury with two bedrooms connected by a central lounge, complete with timber doors and a pergola for added privacy.
As darkness falls, Basecamp Samburu transforms into a stargazer’s paradise. Its signature addition—two open-air star beds—offers an unforgettable experience beneath the African night sky. These exclusive spaces feature private jacuzzis, intimate dining arrangements, and full bathroom facilities, making them perfect for
honeymooners and adventure seekers alike. Your stargazing experience comes alive with a local Samburu staff sharing ancestral astronomical knowledge, illuminating the brilliant celestial tapestry overhead with stories passed down through generations.
You can choose to take the day on in several ways: adventuring out in the wilderness with your dedicated Guide in search of the ‘Samburu Special Five (oryx, gerenuk, ostrich, Grevy’s Zebra, reticulated giraffe),’ visiting traditional Samburu villages, or joining thrilling dark-night scorpion safaris. With private access to 200,000 acres of pristine wilderness in the Kalama Community Conservancy and the neighbouring Samburu National Reserve, unforgettable game-viewing experiences await.
Visitors can experience Basecamp Samburu year-round, with different seasonal highlights. The dry seasons (June to September and December to March) offer classic game viewing as animals gather around water sources, while the green seasons (April to May and October to November) showcase the landscape's vibrant transformation.
Through their partnership with the Samburu community in Kalama Conservancy, they help protect not just the wildlife you’ll see, but the very future of this landscape and its people. Nine out of ten team members come from nearby communities, bringing authentic Samburu culture to every aspect of the guest experience.
Images credit: Brian Siambi
Protecting one of Africa’s most iconic landscapes
For millions of people, the image of an elephant in front of Mount Kilimanjaro is Africa. It embodies the wonder of safari and some lucky Ndege News readers may even be looking at it right now, if they are visiting Amboseli National Park.
But at 392 km2, Amboseli National Park protects just 5% of the roughly 8,000 km2 Greater Amboseli Ecosystem. It’s the safari equivalent of visiting the Louvre just to see the Mona Lisa.
While the park’s permanent water bodies sustain tens of thousands of animals in the dry season, they cannot support all of them year-round. Elephants in particular must range widely to survive.
The rest of the ecosystem has historically been inhabited by the Maasai people whose pastoralist livelihoods are compatible with conservation. This land was communally-owned, unfenced and open to wild animals. As a result, Amboseli has largely retained its wildlife populations and diversity over the decades, even as species populations have plummeted across the rest of Kenya.
Recognising its significance, Big Life Foundation has worked for over
three decades to protect the wider ecosystem. Our focus lies beyond the park’s borders, pioneering community-led programs which underline our ethos; that people support conservation if conservation supports people.
These efforts have helped to largely eliminate poaching. But today, tractors and tarmac pose the biggest threats to Amboseli’s elephants.
Land is now is available for anyone to own, and most outside buyers don’t want to share it with wildlife or livestock. Amboseli is being farmed and fenced.
To combat this, we are partnering with local communities to create community-protected areas. Under voluntary conservation land-lease agreements, Big Life pays annual lease fees to individual landowners.
In return, wildlife can roam freely, and ecologically destructive practices like fencing are prohibited.
It's a model that works.
In just two years, we have effectively doubled the size of the national park, securing more than 400 km2 of adjacent habitat and wildlife migration routes.
But it’s only the beginning. There are still critical areas across the ecosystem that need to be protected. We are doing everything we can, but we need help from people like you.
Air Kenya recognises that one of the best ways to protect an ecosystem is to visit it. Through ethical companies and tour operators, you can ensure Amboseli and its wildlife continues to be one of Africa’s most iconic landscapes.
Find out more or donate at www.biglife.org
Big Life rangers monitor an elephant family while on a routine vehicle patrol.
Big Life has more than 450 rangers, all of whom are from the Amboseli ecosystem
Big Life’s Super Cub conducts regular patrols to monitor Amboseli’s wildlife
Images credit: Joshua Clay
Images credit: Joshua Clay
Images credit: Jeremy Goss
Saruni Basecamp Becomes the Long Run’s First Group Member
Saruni Basecamp has achieved a significant milestone by becoming The Long Run's first-ever Group Member, expanding their commitment to sustainable tourism across all 13 properties in Kenya’s Maasai Mara and Samburu regions.
For travellers seeking safari experiences that genuinely support local communities and protect the vast wildlife habitats, The Long Run stands as a beacon of integrity in the tourism industry. This membership organisation supports a global community of purpose-driven tourism businesses committed to using travel as a force for good. The Long Run’s approach centres on its innovative 4Cs framework – Conservation, Community, Culture and Commerce – which integrates sustainable and regenerative practices into every aspect of a travel business. Having joined as Accommodation Members in 2020 with four properties, Saruni Basecamp now brings their entire portfolio under The Long Run's framework of the 4Cs.
Operating within six community-owned wildlife conservancies across Kenya, Saruni Basecamp offers
pioneering, ethical safari experiences deeply rooted in community-based conservation. Their business model demonstrates how tourism can directly empower environmental protection rather than simply coexist with it. The results speak for themselves: thriving wildlife populations, including the restoration of endangered species, improved land management, and strengthened local economies.
BLOSSOMS & BEYOND
Amorphophallus maximus
It doesn’t look real — and in a way, it isn’t. It appears overnight, rising like a surreal sculpture from the leaf litter, tall and otherworldly. Amorphophallus maximus, a rarely seen member of the arum family, is a true botanical marvel. And yet, where I have been, in Vipingo, on Kenya’s coastal fringe, over twenty of them have erupted into bloom this season, turning a quiet patch of forest into a strange, prehistoric garden.
This isn’t a yearly show. Each individual plant flowers only once every four to six years, depending on rainfall, tuber reserves and subtle environmental cues. The appearance of so many in synchrony suggests a hidden rhythm pulsing through the soil — one we’re only just beginning to notice.
With its towering inflorescence — a single fleshy spathe wrapped around a dark, club-like spadix — A. maximus is one of East Africa’s most dramatic flowering plants. It emerges from a massive underground tuber that spends
The Phantom Bloom of East Africa
years storing energy, then pushes up its floral beacon just as the rains stir the forest back to life.
But here’s the twist: it doesn’t flower for beauty. It flowers for deception. The spadix emits a deep, earthy stench — often likened to rotting fruit or worse — designed to lure carrion beetles and flesh flies, which mistake it for a decaying animal. These duped pollinators crawl deep into the flower in search of a meal or a mate and, in doing so, carry pollen from plant to plant.
After flowering, the plant vanishes again. No leaves. No trace. Just the memory of something rare and ghostly having appeared and slipped away. When it does re-emerge, it's as a single umbrella-like leaf, architectural and almost comically disproportionate to the empty forest floor.
Amorphophallus maximus is a reminder that coastal forests are not just home to the charismatic and familiar — but to strange, secretive species whose survival hinges on patience, timing and finely tuned ecological signals. To witness a bloom is to glimpse a deeper pulse of the ecosystem — slow, silent, and still wildly alive.
In the Face of Climate Change: GIS and Wildlife Conservation
By Linda Kimotho
Did you know that some insects and seeds possess recessive genes for long wings, which only become expressed when climate conditions change, necessitating a move to find more suitable habitats? Unlike humans, wildlife does not have the planning capacity and tools to stop climate change impacts. Instead, they depend on the availability of suitable habitat and natural resources, making mobility key for survival in a changing world.
However, not all wildlife is lucky enough to move by wind. Many animals move on foot across community-owned land, often leaving a wake of destruction and casualties. Geographic Information Systems (GIS) have emerged as powerful tools in addressing such pressing wildlife conservation challenges and promoting human-wildlife coexistence in the wake of climate change.
GIS plays a crucial role in monitoring species distribution, habitat and resource utilisation, wildlife movement, and the threats of habitat loss, human-wildlife conflict, and climate change. Through GIS, conservationists can identify critical habitat areas for species survival, aiding in conservation planning and management, land zoning, and human-wildlife conflict prevention interventions. By analysing satellite imagery, conservationists detect changes in vegetation health, deforestation, forest fires, land cover, and land use, allowing timely responses to prevent or slow biodiversity loss.
At Born Free Foundation, GIS is instrumental in preventing human-wildlife conflict by mapping human-wildlife conflict (HWC) hotspots. These conflict hotspot maps guide prioritisation and targeted HWC interventions, such as predator-proof bomas, predator deterrent lights for carnivore conflict prevention, beehive fences for human-elephant conflict, and selection of target areas for community awareness and outreach programmes.
Technological advances, such as mobile phone data collection, have significantly improved the collection of spatial data for wildlife conservation. Our wildlife scouts and community ambassadors can send georeferenced reports of injured wildlife, illegal activities, and human-wildlife conflict incidents in almost real-time. This enables timely responses from the relevant authorities, reducing human and wildlife casualties as well as property damage.
Wildlife collaring, coupled with GIS, plays a key role in tracking wildlife movement patterns for wide-ranging species like lions, elephants, and wild dogs. Born Free Foundation uses collar data mapped through GIS analysis to provide crucial information on species home ranges, breeding zones, seasonal movement patterns, human interaction zones, and migratory corridors. These insights inform the protection of wildlife corridors and areas of ecological significance for species survival.
GIS empowers local communities by involving them in conservation decision-making. Through participatory GIS, Born Free Foundation, in collaboration with other partners, supports communities living adjacent to Meru National Park in mapping their water resources to identify priority areas for protection and conservation. This ensures increased water flow and availability for both community needs and wildlife in the national park, reducing negative human-wildlife interactions and enhancing water resource management.
Born Free Foundation uses GIS techniques to map land use and land cover, providing insights into how the landscape is changing in terms of deforestation, urban development, and agricultural expansion, and their effects on wildlife movement and human-wildlife interactions. This information guides conservation planners, policymakers, and decision-makers in protecting wildlife corridors and advocating for land use plans that balance development and conservation priorities.
GIS offers a platform where wildlife conservation and community protection can be pursued together. Through continued innovation and inclusivity, we foresee a future where communities and wildlife can coexist in harmony.
The writer is a GIS and Data Officer at Born Free Foundation.
Take action today! Support our efforts by visiting our website at www.bornfree.org.uk or emailing us at info@bornfree.or.ke. Together, we can make a difference.
Image credit: George Leakey
Discover the best of Kenya, Uganda, and Tanzania with our unparalleled regional network. AirKenya, Aerolink, and Regional Air offer seamless connections between iconic safari destinations like the Maasai Mara, Serengeti National Park, and Bwindi Impenetrable Forest.
Experience the ultimate East African adventure with our coordinated schedules and exceptional service.
THE BIRDS & THE BEES
Pitta angolensis
Sometimes called the “jewel of the forest,” the African pitta is the kind of bird that inspires hushed reverence among even the most seasoned birders. Found in lowland, riverine and miombo forests, its East African stronghold is in Uganda — where it nests in the rainy season and sings its distinctive two-note whistle in the dawn and dusk light.
With a bright green back, crimson belly, and a flash of electric blue in the wings, the African pitta is stunning — but its elusiveness adds to the allure. It forages silently on the forest floor, flicking leaves in search of insects and earthworms, often remaining undetected unless it calls or flushes.
Its display is brief but unforgettable. During courtship, males do a peculiar hopping dance, puffing up their plumage and tossing leaves in a rhythmic ritual that’s as odd as it is beautiful. Sightings are rare, partly because they’re migratory and partly because they’re just so good at vanishing into dappled undergrowth. Many a birder has waited years for a glimpse — and when it happens, it’s often in the brief window of the breeding season in Uganda’s Budongo or Mabira Forests, when rains bring the forest to life. For those
The African Pitta
lucky enough to hear that low, whistled “wheee-oou,” it’s a sound that lingers, reminding us of how much magic still rustles in the leaf litter.
Image credit: Aγarι gaℓνιςιus
Image credit: Niel Cillie
IT MUST BE TRUE
I HEARD IT ON SAFARI!
TRUE!
It is possible to determine the sex of adult giraffes by looking at their horns (ossicones). The ossicones of adult female giraffes are usually thinner and are tufted with hair, whilst male giraffes have thicker ossicones that become bald on top as a result of frequent 'necking' with other males. Ossicones are formed from ossified cartilage covered in skin. They fuse with the skull as the giraffe ages. In adult males, the ossicones provide extra weight to the head and allow them to deliver heavier blows during their necking contests.
Mt. Kilimanjaro, Tanzania’s highest peak, stands at 5,895 meters. It is true that it is the world's tallest free-standing mountain, visible from over 100 km away on a clear day, dominating the landscape. There are three peaks, Uhuru the main one, Lobo and Kibo. Halfway up, locked in the ice of a now melted lacies, was a frozen leopard and a colobus monkey.
It is true that ostriches are one of the fastest running birds. While they can run fast, they more commonly sprint at around 50-60 km/h when escaping predators. They can cover 4.8 to 7m per stride and can maintain a constant speed for around 30 minutes before they tire, turning then to their powerful kick for protection.
Buffalo herds are not led by dominant males. In reality, older female buffalos, called matriarchs, often lead the herd, guiding them to water and grazing areas. Males do have ranks, the advantage being that the more dominant individuals feed in the centre of the herd and do not have to contend with such trampled pastures.
The plumage of Marabou Storks is adapted for scavenging. Marabou Storks can often be seen scavenging for food. Their naked heads and long necks are adaptations which allow for this type of feeding. A featherless head is much more easily kept clean when scavenging on the corpses of dead animals. They often feed on carrion alongside vultures whose hooked beaks are better at tearing carcasses apart. Marabou Storks are not purely scavengers and are opportunistic feeders, catching and eating a wide variety of prey, such as fish, frogs, reptiles, eggs, insects and occasionally other birds.
Image credit: Whole Earth Education
Image credit: African Wildlife Report
SMALL & SPECIAL
The Prickly Philosopher of the Undergrowth: The African Hedgehog
By Hollie M’gog
You could walk right past one and never know it. Beneath the leaf litter of East African woodlands, along the edge of farms, or curled beneath a pile of bricks in someone’s backyard, lives one of the continent’s quietest conservation enigmas — the four-toed hedgehog, also known as the African pygmy hedgehog (Atelerix albiventris)
With its round body, beady eyes, and a back covered in sharp spines, this small insectivore seems like something from a fairytale — equal parts cute and mysterious. Found across Uganda, Kenya and Tanzania (and well beyond), the four-toed hedgehog is no stranger to human-dominated landscapes. Yet few people have ever seen one in the wild, let alone paused to appreciate its strange, solitary life.
Unlike its European cousins, this hedgehog doesn’t hibernate. East Africa’s warmth keeps it active year-round, mostly at night. By day, it tucks itself into a shallow burrow, under logs or brush. By night, it emerges — a prickly nomad on a mission. With its pointed snout close to the ground and short legs carrying it surprisingly fast, it hunts spiders, beetles, earthworms and even the occasional scorpion, unbothered by the sting. It’s not a fussy eater, but it is an efficient one.
But here’s an astonishing fact: the four-toed hedgehog will take on venomous snakes. Approaching with caution, it bites severely and repeatedly while protecting its face with its spines to avoid being struck; it continues the attack until it has broken the snake's spine or eviscerated it.
Four-toed hedgehog
Image credit: Daniel Liepack
This remarkable behaviour has been documented in the species account by Santana et al. (2010) in Mammalian Species.
The “four-toed” name? That’s no accident. On the back feet, hedgehogs typically have five toes — but this species consistently shows up with just four. Why? No one’s entirely sure, but the trait seems fixed and harmless, possibly just a quirky evolutionary shortcut. It adds to their charm: these are mammals that don’t read the rulebook.
But it’s not all snacks and scurrying. The four-toed hedgehog has a strange trick up its sleeve — or rather, on its back. When it encounters a strong new scent (anything from a ripe mango to motor oil), it may begin “selfanointing”: contorting its body, producing foamy saliva, and smearing it onto its spines. Scientists still debate the purpose of this behaviour. Is it camouflage? Chemical defence? A bizarre form of communication? No one really knows. What’s clear is that, for a moment, the hedgehog becomes both detective and alchemist.
I first met a four-toed hedgehog as a child in Nairobi, when they were a common sight in gardens and hedges. Our Jack Russell, Sam, had a soft mouth and would gently carry them home like prickly trophies before we returned them to the night. Those snorts and sudden curls were part of everyday life — but now, they’ve all but disappeared from the city. Years later, at the coast, I found them again — dashing through coral rag thickets just inland from the beach. You rarely see them at first, but once you know they’re there, you’ll hear them — a rustle, a huff, a scurry just beyond the torchlight. Still wild, still wonderful.
Though often overlooked, four-toed hedgehogs play a vital role in pest control and ecosystem health. Their presence near farms is more than incidental — they help manage insect populations and quietly coexist with people. Yet as pesticide use increases and habitats shrink, their future is less certain.
They remind us that wildness doesn’t always roar. Sometimes, it bristles softly in the night, digs quietly in the soil, and vanishes before morning.
The Science of Spines
Each hedgehog has over 5,000 spines, made of keratin — the same material as human fingernails. Unlike porcupine quills, they don’t detach, but they can be raised or flattened using small muscles. When threatened, the hedgehog contracts into a perfect, impenetrable ball — a defence strategy that has worked for millions of years.
Bonus Quirk: Baby hedgehogs (hoglets!) are born blind and spineless. Their spines erupt within 24 hours, pushing through a special fluid-filled layer under the skin. Nature wastes no time when you’re this small and this tasty.
Image credit: Ethan Kurotsuchi
Image credit: Yvonne de Jong and Tom Butynski
Paddle Through Paradise: Canoeing the Colourful Momella Lakes in Tanzania
By Hollie M’gog
The beauty of Arusha National Park is, first and foremost, its accessibility — just a short drive from Arusha town — and second, its tapestry of crater forests with Crowned Eagles, grasslands teeming with plains game, and the opportunity to skirt the grazing herds on foot. There are soft hues and wild drama all tucked beneath the shadow of Mount Meru. As the morning light spills over the rugged peaks, the park awakens with a delicate mist rising from the forests. Thick vines and towering fig trees can be seen from the meandering hiking paths, their ancient roots twisting like biblical snakes set in stone. Colobus monkeys leap effortlessly through the branches, their long, black-andwhite coats almost like phantoms slipping through the canopy.
The Momella Lakes are not just one body of water, but a group of
seven shallow lakes. Their story is a dramatic one, reaching back thousands of years to the powerful volcanic activity of Mount Meru. These lakes were formed from the vast volcanic debris created when Mount Meru erupted. The deposits spread eastward, creating a unique hummocky terrain, with hills and depressions that were later filled by water, forming the lakes, ponds and marshes that we see today.
What makes the Momella Lakes truly stand out is their alkaline nature and vibrant, ever-changing colours. While their alkalinity means animals generally don't drink from them, the differing mineral contents and alkaline concentrations in each lake support various types of algae growth, painting the lakes in different hues. Rishateni Lake, for example, is noted for its unusually high
concentration of dissolved fluorine derived from eroded volcanic rocks.
Should the weather and winds be right then the true secret of Arusha lies in these lakes, a collection of emerald-green waters ringed by lush vegetation and volcanic boulders, here and there dotted with pink flamingo elegance.
Where the hippos stay away the canoeists go!
Paddling out onto the serene water feels like entering another world, one where time flows as slowly as the gentle ripples in the water. The air is crisp, filled with the occasional call of a fish eagle soaring overhead. There, laid out before you, stands Kilimanjaro, proud and enormous, while behind you the more jagged peaks of Mt Meru try to score some limelight.
It aligns perfectly with the park's conservation efforts, having minimal environmental impact. This helps preserve the natural atmosphere and reduces disturbances to the animals.
Your experienced guide is not just there for safety; they enhance the entire experience. They can provide insights into animal behaviour, offer tips for birdwatching, point out species you might miss, and even share information about the park's conservation initiatives. But remember, following their safety guidelines, such as maintaining a minimum distance of 50 meters from wildlife, is crucial for a smooth trip!
Arusha National Park is a landscape of contrasts — pristine and wild, peaceful and alive, where you can feel the very pulse of nature as you float in perfect harmony with it.
Further Information
This peaceful activity is a welcome change from the usual vehicle safaris. It allows you to connect with nature in a unique, intimate, and immersive way, creating lasting memories. While the Momella Lakes are just one part
Canoeing on Momella Lakes is typically offered during the day, generally from 7:00 am to 5:00 pm. It is generally permitted for children above 7 years old, accompanied by an adult. You can combine this activity with other park experiences, like walking safaris or game drives. The Momella Lakes themselves are recognised as an important feeding habitat for the East African Rift Valley lesser flamingo population and are among the most attractive sites in the park
of Arusha National Park, they offer a concentration of beauty and life that is truly special. So, next time you're planning a Tanzanian adventure, make sure to include paddling through the colourful, wildlife-rich waters of the Momella Lakes!
The perfect spot for your paddling adventure is Small Momella Lake. This shallow lake is designated for canoeing tours and offers a safe and accessible experience for everyone, even those new to canoeing. These guided tours typically last around two to three hours, giving you ample time to soak in the beauty around you.
Various operators and lodges in the area may offer canoeing trips on Small Momella Lake. Park fees and canoeing fees apply, which can often be paid electronically. Whether you book with TANAPA or WAYO Africa directly, ensure you have the necessary permits and adhere to the park guidelines.
Image credit: WAYO Africa
Image credit: WAYO Africa
Nine Tents and a Dream in Serengeti North
Wild and remote, the ancient Lobo Valley in the northern Serengeti remains one of the few spaces that is barely touched by man. Expansive savannahs filled with diverse wildlife and granite kopjes rise dramatically from the plains and provide shelter for myriad lion prides and solitary leopards. Known for year-round water sources, the valley continually attracts enormous herds of buffalo, along with elephants, giraffes, many antelope, hundreds of bird species and much more.
The great migration, occurring July through September, sees large herds of wildebeest and zebras heading toward the Mara River
By Cynthia Adams
where they cross back into Kenya. In the Lobo Valley, you can witness this almost as a private event, without hundreds of other vehicles crowding the land for a glimpse of one of the most spectacular and awe-inspiring natural events on Earth. This solitude allows the animals to behave in ways they might not when surrounded by other vehicles. The result is a rare intimacy with nature — an experience that few get to enjoy in a world where human presence often outnumbers that of wildlife.
Shannon Witz, the founder of Africa Eco-Expeditions, has created an intimate camp like no other. The concept behind the camp is simple:
offering incredible space, free from crowds and with it an incredible diversity of wildlife. Her camp is run with a focus on conservation and creating meaningful job opportunities for Tanzanians. As Shannon states “our philosophy is that for conservation to truly succeed, the local people must see tangible benefits - otherwise, the wildlife won’t survive. Educating and empowering local communities to understand that conserving Tanzania’s natural resources is essential to their long-term prosperity is central to what we do”.
Shannon notes that the staff is a cornerstone of the camp’s
success. She takes immense pride in employing a dedicated and knowledgeable team with over 90 years of combined experience in the bush. All are local Tanzanians, including chefs, managers, guides and housekeeping, each deeply committed to providing exceptional service. The team’s passion for conservation and hospitality ensures that every guest’s experience is unforgettable.
Both Kogatende and Lobo airstrips are serviced by Regional Air which makes getting to Africa EcoExpeditions an easy flight over incredible terrain. And the safari begins right from the airstrip!
As an owner-operated camp, Shannon’s goal was to create a small and intimate camp, designed to offer a truly unique safari experience with just eight classic tents and one family tent. In designing the layout, the focus was on comfort and immersion in nature, with each tent elevated on a solid platform and spaced 60-70 feet apart for maximum privacy.
The tents feature private verandahs that provide stunning views of the surrounding landscape, often overlooking the migration pathoffering a front-row seat to one of nature’s most incredible spectacles.
Each tent has been thoughtfully decorated by renowned conservation artist Jacha Potgieter. The interiors combine luxury with a true safari experience, offering flushable toilets, safari-style showers, high-quality linens, and comfortable beds to guarantee a restful night after an exciting day of wildlife encounters.
The majority of the camp’s décor is made from materials sourced in Tanzania, with a focus on reusing and recycling. Jacha’s vision was to show that waste doesn’t have to be discarded - it can be transformed into beautiful art. Not only are local artisans supported, but their environmental footprint is reduced.
The textiles in the camp, designed by Jacha, reflect his creative genius and
his commitment to conservation. His artwork also plays a significant role in supporting various conservation projects. Through his art, he aims to raise awareness about the importance of protecting wildlife and preserving the natural beauty of Tanzania.
Shannon and Jacha are proud of their ability and certification to host guests with special needs and mobility issues, wheelchairs or not. A disability should not hinder the enjoyment a safari can give!
Special activities that really set this camp apart from others are their focus on culture and creativity. In addition to the traditional game drives, cooking classes, walking safaris and one-on-one photography lessons are offered.
In 2026 they will offer something truly unique in the safari world — darkroom film processing and printing classes led by Hans Klemmer, a master of his art. This will be the first opportunity
of its kind in the Serengeti, allowing guests to dive deep into the art of analog photography while on safari.
Even if not shooting with film, he’s developed a special organic process that transforms digital images into slide-like photos, which are then processed to achieve a film-quality effect. It’s an incredible way to connect with one’s photography in a more creative way. Whether a seasoned photographer or just starting out, this experience will allow you to explore your craft in a whole new light.
Other unique features of this camp include a mobile star bed that allows guests to experience the magic of sleeping outside under the stars. And of course, sundowners! It goes without saying that sundowners are one of the most cherished traditions of safari life, and they ensure that their guests experience it in true Tanzanian style. After a day of game drives, sundowners are set up atop a kopje, where one can relax and reflect on the day’s sightings while sipping on a refreshing G&T as the sun sets over the vast Serengeti.
Dining under the stars is another special experience offered. The welcome tree, with its unique charm, serves as the perfect setting for an
intimate dinner under the African sky. It’s an extraordinary way to end the day, surrounded by the sounds of the bush and the beauty of the stars above. Their cuisine is another standout. A fusion of Western and Swahili flavors, prepared with fresh local ingredients, it is consistently rated 5 stars by guests. The chef and team all take pride in offering a dining experience that’s as memorable as the safari itself, ensuring that every meal feels like a special occasion.
While the camp does attract many photographers, it welcomes all travellers – especially those seeking a deeper, more personal connection with nature. They’ve had guests working on special projects, including books, film documentaries and conservation initiatives. Last year they had the honour of hosting **NABU** (The Nature and Biodiversity Conservation Union), the oldest and largest environmental association in Germany. Their visit to the camp resulted in a wonderful seal of approval, highlighting their commitment to conservation and sustainable tourism practices.
Whether you are a professional or amateur photographer, or a safari goer who just enjoys taking pictures as a hobby, Shannon has developed
custom specialty vehicles designed with photographers in mind. The goal was to create a space that allows for optimal shooting, offering features like eye-level shooting capability and fold-down filming chairs to ensure maximum comfort and flexibility. With her professional photographer background, Shannon was able to bring her experience and insight into the design of these vehicles, making them one of a kind and an amazing experience for photographers and everyone to use. The design allows for unobstructed views, freedom of movement, and the stability needed for sharp, clear images.
As an award-winning conservation photographer, Shannon has taken many journeys throughout Africa to document this planet's precious cargo, with a special fondness for the gorillas of Kahuzi-Biega National Park in the Congo, where she is also one of their ambassadors.
But Tanzania, its people and its wildlife are what have her heart the most. It is her hope that through her photos and the love that she has put into creating her very special camp, that her guests will be inspired to explore, listen, learn and protect these treasures for generations to come.
iKWETA Safari Camp in Meru
By Ulrich Oberprieler of Ulrich Ecoventures
iKWETA Safari Camp, a name that translates to "Equator" in Swahili, is a wonderfully affordable retreat situated just a kilometre from the Murera Gate of Meru National Park in central Kenya. The Equator Marker is in Nanyuki, approximately 140km by road to the southwest, the lodge itself lies roughly 30km north of the equator in a direct line.
Upon my arrival, I was warmly greeted by the manager. As it was midday, I partook in a delightful lunch on the open verandah of the spacious restaurant. The surrounding trees provided shade for those choosing to sit under the lush canopy, accompanied by the melodious sounds of birds.
The safari tents are notably spacious, well-constructed and elegantly decorated. They are not the cramped A-framed tents, but resemble large, well-furnished hotel rooms. Each of the ten guest tents is equipped with either a double bed or two single beds, all fully enclosed with mosquito nets, including additional netting over the beds. The ensuite bathroom/shower facilities are equally commendable.
After a refreshing shower, I explored the campgrounds. A short nature trail winds between fruit trees, past the helicopter landing pad and around the various veggie gardens that allow iKWETA to be the real farm-to-plate experience. Wildlife reveals itself subtly at iKWETA. Along
the nature trail, delicate mongoose tracks criss-cross the dust, and at night, the eerie, otherworldly cries of Thick-tailed Bushbabies echo through the trees. Beneath the surface, colonies of Naked Mole-Rats go about their secretive lives, rarely seen but betraying their presence with volcano-shaped mounds of soil. These remarkable creatures are among the world’s few eusocial mammals — living underground in complex communities with a single breeding female and a workforce of devoted non-breeding adults. Overhead, a shifting chorus of bird calls accompanies the walk, which leads, eventually, to a glint of turquoise — the camp’s spacious pool, serene and inviting at the trail’s end.
In the late afternoon, I had the opportunity to engage in an insightful discussion with the owners, Susan and John. Both having retired from their professional careers, they embarked on establishing iKWETA Safari Camp as their new venture. Their perspective on the Kenyan safari industry is straightforward: while Kenya is renowned for its captivating landscapes, wildlife and birds, there is a demand for more affordable, yet quality accommodation options. iKWETA addresses this need perfectly. Its setting in the lush woodland and the proximity to Meru National Park is ideal.
The setting of iKWETA is mesmerising. Nestled close to the off-the-main-tourist-track beauty of Meru National Park, the camp offers serene escape. Meru, covering over 870 square kilometres, is known for its rich biodiversity, including a very successful rhino sanctuary, varied ecosystems, ranging from riverine forests and swamps to grasslands and acacia woodlands. This diversity
allows visitors to witness an extensive array of wildlife, including some species that are rarely seen in other parks. For instance, Meru National Park is one of the few places where you can spot the rare Grevy's zebra, the reticulated giraffe and the shy lesser kudu. The unique gerenuk gazelle stands on his hind legs to nibble on foliage. The park is home to the big five: lions, elephants, leopards, rhinoceroses and buffaloes. It also hosts several other species such as cheetahs, hippos and the diminutive dikdik.
Birdwatchers will be delighted with the abundant avian life, including the Red-bellied Parrot, Vulturine Guineafowl, Grey Crowned Crane, Black-faced Sandgrouse and numerous other colourful species. The rivers that flow through the park, such as the Tana River tributaries, provide a lifeline for both the flora and fauna, making it a critical ecosystem for many species.
In addition to wildlife viewing, the park's landscape is stunning,
featuring picturesque views of Mount Kenya in the distance, rolling hills, rock kopjes and dramatic escarpments. The diverse vegetation includes baobabs, doum palms and acacias, adding to the scenic beauty of the park.
Efforts to conserve Meru National Park have been ongoing, with initiatives aimed at protecting the wildlife and maintaining the park's natural beauty. Rangers patrol the area to prevent poaching, and conservation programs work to restore ecosystems and support local communities.
Regarding sustainability, iKWETA Safari Camp takes its environmental responsibilities seriously. The camp operates on eco-friendly principles, ensuring minimal impact on the surrounding environment. Solar energy is harnessed to power the tents and common areas, and water conservation measures are strictly followed. The vegetable gardens within the camp are a testament to their commitment to self-sufficiency
and sustainability. Guests are often invited to partake in farm-to-table dining experiences, where they can pick fresh produce and have it prepared by the skilled chefs at the camp. This not only ensures the freshness of the food but also reduces the carbon footprint associated with transporting supplies.
As night fell, the ambiance of iKWETA Safari Camp transformed. The clear skies above revealed a breathtaking display of stars, unblemished by light pollution. The evenings can be spent around a bonfire, sharing stories with fellow travellers and listening to the distant calls of nocturnal animals. It is during these moments that the true essence of the safari experience comes alive – a sense of being connected to nature in its purest form.
My stay at iKWETA Safari Camp was nothing short of extraordinary. What stayed with me wasn’t just the wildlife or the comfort — it was the quiet integrity of the place. iKWETA Safari Camp doesn’t try to impress with extravagance; it invites you in with intention. Every element, from the homegrown food to the way the staff share their knowledge of the land,
feels considered and real. Whether you’ve been on dozens of safaris or are discovering this landscape for the
first time, iKWETA offers something rarer: a sense of belonging — to place, to purpose, and to the present moment.
Plan Your Stay
Visit
ikwetasafaricamp.com for current rates and bookings. iKWETA offers mains electricity, reliable internet, and is just off the main tar road. Consistently awarded for excellence — including Tripadvisor Travellers’ Choice Awards and Hall of Fame and a Gold Award from Kenya’s Tourism Regulatory Authority. This eco-conscious camp is run hands-on by Susan and John, with a team known for warm, professional hospitality. Beyond Meru’s wildlife, iKWETA also arranges visits to nearby Gatwe Hill, Nyambene forest and the Magado Crater.
Sometimes, drama awaits the visitor. The magic of being in the park lies in its mystery and enchantment. One usually expects to see herds of impala and zebra, but the truth is, you never really know what you’ll encounter — if anything at all. Much depends on the season, whether rainy or dry, as animals move through different parts of the park.
I have witnessed lions, some with cubs, stalking and successfully killing buffalo amongst other prey species. And . . . I have seen buffalo chase the lions! At times a tense standoff between buffalo and predator occur, where the older male buffalo guards the rest of the herd in an attempt to keep the lions at bay.
There are the rare times when I have witnessed a rhino chasing a lion, a rock python swallowing an impala, lions mating, hippos fighting one another, crocodiles grabbing a bird, eagles catching a fish, a hammerkop
or heron spearing a fish, a secretary bird grabbing a snake, vultures and hyenas and jackals eating the last of a lion kill until nothing is left but scattered and crushed bones.
More than 500 bird species have been spotted — more species than many countries can claim. The martial eagle, the largest African eagle is one of many birds of prey in the park. One of its favourite meals is the ever present, humorous and loudly squawking helmeted guinea fowl. A couple of dozen birds of prey, including the endangered lappet-faced vulture, call our Nairobi National Park home.
Leopard sightings are rare, but sometimes an impala can be spotted hanging on a tree, signalling that a leopard must not be too far. In this case, patience would be key to see this elusive big cat climb back up to its meal. At other times screaming of vervet monkeys and baboons warn that a leopard is lurking nearby.
But all is not well in Nairobi National Park. There is a fence around the northern, eastern and part of the western boundaries, but it is the southern boundaries that are open to migration from the vast Athi-Kapiti plains. The park only comprises ten percent of this important migration area. Historically wildlife such as wildebeest and cheetah moved back-and-forth between the vast plains and the park; but the boundary between these essential areas have been blocked by the ever-expanding human population. Now, the natural connection is almost completely closed off. Residential construction, industrial plants and fences protecting agricultural land have impeded the historic migration routes.
For the last decade, a plan to construct a wide wildlife corridor and restore the historic migration has been discussed, but no action has been taken. Without the corridor,
Nairobi National Park could become a large zoo. Already its gene pool that has been diminished and will continue to be degraded without connective habitats. Right now, there are at least three different lion families. Cheetahs are rare.
Further, the droughts exacerbate the ecosystem issues. Just two years ago it is estimated that there were one thousand buffalo in the park, The recent multi-year drought spared very few. Finally, the rains bring salvation but often too late for many individuals in a place where an individual holds much weight. Now, our park homes only sixty to seventy buffalos. The good news is that some young buffalo calves have been spotted among the buffalo again.
The Naretunoi Conservancy also borders the park in the south. Here wildlife and livestock coexist with one another and the conservancy is an important wildlife dispersal area. Many animals will seasonally migrate back-and-forth between the park and the conservancy.
Threats to the park include invasive plant species, such as parthenium, lantana and prickly pear species. Water and air pollution also affect the health of Nairobi National Park. There are stewards and advocates that are the citizen eyes and ears of the park. Friends of Nairobi National Park (FoNNaP) is a local citizen non-profit organisation that is dedicated to protecting, conserving and enhancing the park and the greater ecosystem beyond the park’s boundaries. Some of their projects include monthly game counts, advocacy, education, water quality monitoring and public forums. FoNNaP works hand in hand with Kenya Wildlife Services (KWS.)
KWS rangers are integral in protecting the park. And many rangers are dedicated to following the endangered rhinos to keep an eye out as well as to watch for predators. Working together, Nairobi National Park will remain wild for all future generations — a place where the living heritage of Africa can coexist in the heart of a bustling capital city.
Nairobi National Park is open 365 days a year from 6am to 6pm and there are three entrance gates. Entrance fees are to be paid on-line through Kenya’s eCitizen portal.
Safari in the Wild
Ololo Safari Lodge Where Wildlife Meets Farm-Fresh Cuisine
By Hollie M’gog
How can one escape the city without leaving the city bounds? Only in Nairobi is that possible …. From a morning of hustle and bustle, perhaps knick-knack shopping so as to have gifts to take home to friends, or, if you are a Nairobi resident, getting the dog food, the groceries and paying the bills – all before a trip to Nairobi Park and an exquisite weekend away.
Our Ololo guide slowed the vehicle near a dense thicket, whispering, ‘black rhino ahead.’ Anticipation electrified the air as we carefully scanned the bushes.
Suddenly, a large black rhino emerged, her ears twitching as she surveyed the area. Behind her, a calf cautiously followed, its tiny horn just a nub. The mother’s immense power was palpable, yet her movements were deliberate, almost tender, as she turned to nudge her offspring forward.
We stayed still, the vehicle’s engine silenced to avoid disturbing the pair. The calf, curious but cautious, ventured a few steps closer, pausing to inspect a shrub with its snout. It occasionally glanced back at its mother, seeking reassurance. She
stood watchful, her gaze flicking between us and the open plains, her maternal instincts on full display.
Eventually, the mother turned, her calf following close behind as they disappeared across the road into the cover of the thicket.
It’s the healthy rhino population that Nairobi Park is famous for but also perhaps a hunting cheetah, a basking crocodile, a largesse of lounging lions and a rainbow of birds … and all this on the way as you head for that special weekend just 45 minutes from town!
Amboseli Trust for Elephants: A Lifelong Commitment to Conservation
In the shadow of Mount Kilimanjaro, within Amboseli National Park, a quiet revolution has been unfolding for over five decades.
Since 1972, the Amboseli Trust for Elephants (ATE) has led the world’s longest-running study of wild elephants. By meticulously tracking the lives of individual animals, ATE has uncovered the complex social bonds, intelligence and survival strategies of elephants — reshaping the way science, and the world, understands them.
This pioneering research has achieved far more than populating academic journals. ATE’s work has informed conservation policies across Africa and Asia, generated over 150 scientific publications, and built a comprehensive database that remains indispensable to elephant biologists worldwide.
Yet ATE’s influence reaches well beyond the scientific sphere.
Partnership has always been at the core of its approach. Working closely with the Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS), the
Wildlife Research and Training Institute (WRTI), NGOs and independent researchers, ATE has established a robust network of conservation collaborators. Partnerships with filmmakers and writers have also helped bring the elephants’ story to global audiences, inspiring public engagement and policy change.
At its heart, ATE believes that lasting conservation must be rooted in local leadership. To nurture future conservationists, it invests in young Kenyan professionals through mentorship, academic support, and Conservation Career Development Workshops. Many of its alumni are now leading conservation efforts across the continent.
Supporting local communities is equally central to ATE’s mission. In 2002, the organisation launched a
university scholarship programme for young Maasai students, which later expanded to include secondary education. These initiatives empower communities to protect the natural heritage that has sustained them for generations.
ATE also equips those on the conservation front lines. Since 1997, more than 100 rangers, KWS personnel and conservationists have completed ATE’s specialist training in elephant biology, behaviour, and field techniques.
Behind the scenes, ATE’s scientists advise governments and international bodies, helping to develop ethical, evidence-based strategies for managing elephants and the landscapes they share with people.
Through science, collaboration, education and a deep respect for local communities, the Amboseli Trust for Elephants has created a conservation model that is securing a future for elephants — and for the ecosystems they inhabit.
And their work is far from over.
To learn more, visit: www.elephanttrust.org
Training rangers
Inspiring the Next Generation: Strengthening Conservation Education in Tsavo
By African Wildlife Foundation
Last June, the African Wildlife Foundation (AWF), in partnership with the Wildlife Clubs of Kenya (WCK), launched a transformative four-year initiative aimed at building a movement of young conservation change agents across the Tsavo landscape. Supported by Bob and Emmy King, this initiative represents more than just an investment in education — it is an investment in Kenya’s ecological future.
Spanning 48,000 square kilometres, the Tsavo landscape is Kenya’s largest conservation area, encompassing Tsavo East and West National Parks. It is home to critical wildlife populations, including black rhinos and more than a third of Kenya’s elephants. Yet, despite its ecological significance, the region faces serious challenges: high poverty levels, ongoing human–wildlife conflict, and unsustainable exploitation of natural resources. Young people, in particular, are becoming increasingly disconnected from nature and susceptible to harmful activities such as poaching and charcoal burning.
With over six decades of conservation experience in Africa, AWF is uniquely positioned to address these challenges. Through its long-standing partnership with WCK — dating back to the founding of Kenya’s first wildlife club in 1968, in which AWF played a pivotal role — the two organisations are embedding
conservation education into local school systems to create a lasting generational impact.
This ambitious project will reach approximately 83,000 learners across 137 schools in the Tsavo region, equipping them with conservation knowledge, practical skills and leadership opportunities. In addition, ten outstanding students will receive secondary school scholarships, launched this April, to support and mentor them as they grow into conservation champions.
A key focus of the initiative is the integration of updated, interactive learning materials, alongside capacity-building for teachers to deliver engaging, effective conservation education. The goal is to foster lifelong connections between young people and the natural world. At the launch of the programme,
AWF’s Kenya Country Director, Nancy Githaiga, underscored the importance of the organisation’s deep understanding of Tsavo’s environmental and socio-economic dynamics. Dr Margaret Otieno, CEO of WCK, echoed this sentiment, highlighting the power of youth engagement in securing Kenya’s natural heritage.
As part of its broader Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) commitment, AirKenya is proud to support AWF as one of its partner organisations — ensuring that every take-off into Tsavo’s skies also contributes to conserving the landscapes below.
With nearly 70% of sub-Saharan Africa’s population under the age of 30, engaging young people in conservation is no longer optional — it is essential for Africa’s sustainable future.
Bwindi Community Hospital Teams Up with AeroLink Uganda to Bridge Skies and Save Lives
By Oyesiga Barnabas
In a powerful fusion of purpose and adventure, Bwindi Community Hospital (BCH) has signed a groundbreaking partnership with AeroLink Uganda, a premier safari airline connecting Uganda’s wild frontiers. The Memorandum of Understanding (MoU), signed on 11 May 2025 at BCH’s scenic campus in Buhoma, Kanungu District, marks a bold new chapter in accessible healthcare — not only for local communities but also for global health volunteers and eco-tourists drawn to the mystical jungles of south-western Uganda.
Perched on the edge of the legendary Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, home to nearly half of the world’s remaining mountain gorillas, Bwindi Community Hospital is no ordinary health centre. What began in 2003 as a modest outreach clinic beneath a tree, serving the displaced Batwa pygmies, has blossomed into a 155-bed referral hospital transforming lives across the Kanungu region and beyond.
Founded by American physician and missionary Dr Scott Kellermann through the Texas-based Kellermann Foundation, BCH stands as both a beacon of hope and a crossroads of cultures. Doctors, students, researchers and travellers from across the world pass through its doors — not only to heal and be healed, but to witness a community’s remarkable
resilience within one of the planet’s richest biodiversity zones.
Today, BCH serves a catchment area of more than 120,000 people, providing a broad spectrum of services — from maternal care and infectious disease treatment to professional training at its affiliated institutions: Uganda Nursing School Bwindi (UNSB) and Uganda College of Health Sciences Bwindi (UCHSB). In July 2025, these schools will be elevated into the African University of Science and Management (AUSM), marking a significant milestone in the advancement of rural medical education in Africa.
One of BCH’s key innovations is the eQuality Health Bwindi insurance scheme — a community-based health plan costing just $5 per year. This initiative enables over 20,000 members to access essential healthcare affordably, exemplifying
what is possible when grassroots collaboration meets visionary leadership.
With the new AeroLink partnership and its daily flights to Kihihi Airstrip, access to this remote region becomes easier than ever. Medical professionals, researchers and volunteers will benefit from shorter, more comfortable journeys — allowing for more frequent specialist visits and ultimately, life-saving care for underserved populations. Tourists flying into Bwindi for gorilla trekking may also find themselves deeply moved by the spirit of community and compassion that pulses through this forested frontier.
This is more than a partnership. It is a pathway — where aviation meets empathy, and where travellers touch down not only in one of Africa’s last great wild places, but at the heart of a global movement to heal, uplift, and connect.
AIRKENYA FLIGHT SCHEDULE 2025
AMBOSELI
FLT
P2
P2 884 AMBOSELI WILSON 08:15 8:50
• Daily service; minimum of 2 pax to operate.
• Flight from Amboseli to Wilson connects to Nanyuki, Lewa Downs, Samburu, Meru, and Loisaba at 10:00; Maasai Mara at 10:30 and Kilimanjaro at 13:30.
KILIMANJARO
FLT
P2 821
P2 822 KILIMANJARO WILSON 14:40 15:35
• Daily service, minimum of 4 pax per sector to operate.
• Kilimanjaro service is non-operational 1st April - 31st May and 1st Nov - 15th Dec
• This airport is your gateway to a safari between Kenya and Tanzania as it easily connects to Arusha, Manyara, Seronera and Lobo with Regional Air Services at 15:30.
LEWA DOWNS
FLT
P2
P2
P2
• Daily service; minimum of 2 pax to operate.
• Arrival and departure times to/from Lewa Downs may vary significantly by up to 45 minutes depending on aircraft routing over multiple airstrips.
• Flight from Masai Mara connects to Lewa via Wilson at 10:00.
• Flight from Lewa to Wilson connects to Kilimanjaro at 13:30 and to Masai Mara at 14:00.
• Flight from Lewa to Masai Mara may route via Wilson in low season to connect on the 14:00 flight.
• Call Airkenya operations on departure date to confirm arrival and pick up times for various airstrips.
LOISABA
FLT
P2
P2 872
P2 862 LOISABA MASAI MARA 11:15 13:15
• Daily service; minimum of 2 pax to operate.
• Arrival and departure times to/from Loisaba may vary significantly by up to 45 minutes depending on aircraft routing over multiple airstrips.
• Flight from Masai Mara connects to Loisaba via Wilson at 10:00.
• Flight from Loisaba to Wilson connects to Kilimanjaro at 13:30 and to Masai Mara at 14:00.
• Flight from Loisaba to Masai Mara may route via Wilson in low season to connect on the 14:00 flight.
• Call Airkenya operations on departure date to confirm arrival and pick up times for various airstrips.
MASAI MARA
• Daily Service; minimum of 2 pax per
• The inbound flight Masai Mara to Wilson arriving at 09:45 connects to our Wilson - Northern Kenya Services i.e. Lewa, Loisaba, Meru, Nanyuki and Samburu at 10:00 and to Kilimanjaro at 13:30
• Masai Mara services operates into multiple airstrips, therefore timings may vary depending on aircraft routing.
• The arrival and departure times depict the first stop.
• Call Airkenya operations on departure date to confirm arrival and
• Daily Service; minimum of 2 pax per strip to operate.
• Special offer applies to flight departing Wilson at 07:30, and from Mara at 14:45.
• Masai Mara services operates into multiple airstrips, therefore timings may vary depending on aircraft routing.
• The arrival and departure times depict the first stop.
• Call Airkenya operations on departure date to confirm arrival and pick up times for various airstrips.
• Daily service; minimum of 2 pax to operate.
• Arrival and departure times to/from Meru may vary significantly by up to 45 minutes depending on aircraft routing over multiple airstrips.
• Flight from Masai Mara connects to Meru via Wilson at 10:00.
• Flight from Meru to Wilson connects to Kilimanjaro at 13:30 and to Masai Mara at 14:00.
• Flights from Meru to Samburu is a one-direction service.
• Flight from Meru to Masai Mara may route via Wilson in low season to connect on the 14:00 flight.
• Call Airkenya operations on departure date to confirm arrival and pick up times for various airstrips.
NANYUKI / KAMOK
• Daily service to Nanyuki Civil and Kamok airstrips; minimum of 2 pax per strip to operate.
• Arrival and departure times to/from Nanyuki/Kamok may vary significantly by up to 45 minutes depending on aircraft routing over multiple airstrips.
• Flight from Masai Mara connects to Nanyuki Civil/Kamok via Wilson at 10:00.
• Flight from Nanyuki Civil/Kamok to Wilson connects to Kilimanjaro at 13:30 and to Masai Mara at 14:00.
• Flight from Nanyuki Civil/Kamok to Masai Mara may route via Wilson in low season to connect on the 14:00 flight
• Call Airkenya operations on departure date to confirm arrival and pick up times for various airstrips.
AIRKENYA FLIGHT SCHEDULE 2025
SAMBURU BUFFALO/ KALAMA
FLT NO FROM TO DEPART ARRIVE
P2 871 WILSON SAMBURU 10:00 11:00
P2 872 SAMBURU WILSON 11:15 13:25
P2 862 SAMBURU MASAI MARA 11:15 13:15
• Daily service to Samburu Buffalo and Kalama airstrips; minimum of 2 pax per strip to operate.
• Arrival and departure times to/from Nanyuki/Kamok may vary significantly by up to 45 minutes depending on aircraft routing over multiple airstrips.
• Flight from Masai Mara connects to Samburu Buffalo and Kalama via Wilson at 10:00.
• Flight from Samburu Buffalo and Kalama to Wilson connects to Kilimanjaro at 13:30 and to Masai Mara at 14:00.
• Flight from Samburu Buffalo and Kalama to Masai Mara may route via Wilson in low season to connect on the 14:00 flight.
• Call Airkenya operations on departure date to confirm arrival and pick up times for various airstrips.
MIGORI / TARIME
FLT
P2 453 MASAI MARA MIGORI 08:15 09:00
P2 453 MASAI MARA TARIME 08:15 10:10
P2
• Daily service; minimum of 2 pax per strip to operate except 1st April - 31st May & 1st Nov - 15th Dec requires minimum 4 pax per strip.
• Service operates into multiple airstrips therefore timings may vary depending on aircraft routing.
• AirKenya provides road transfer and ground handling between Migori and Tarime.
• The service connects Airkenya Masai Mara services with Regional Air/Auric Air/Coastal Aviation Serengeti services.
MASAI MARA - SERENGETI VV (VIA MIGORI/TARIME)
FLT NO FROM TO DEPART ARRIVE
P2/N8 453/422 MASAI MARA SERONERA 08:15 11:20
N8/P2 421/454 SERONERA MASAI MARA 8:15 12:40
P2/N8 453/422 MASAI MARA KOGATENDE 08:15 11:20
N8/P2 421/454 KOGATENDE MASAI MARA 08:15 12:40
P2/N8 453/432 MASAI MARA MANYARA 08:15 12:00
N8/P2 431/454 MANYARA MASAI MARA 08:40 12:40
P2/N8 453/422 MASAI MARA FORT IKOMA 08:15 11:20
N8/P2 421/454 FORT IKOMA MASAI MARA 08:15 12:40
P2/N8 453/422 MASAI MARA NDUTU 08:15 11:45
N8/P2 115/454 NDUTU MASAI MARA 08:15 12:40
P2/N8 453/422 MASAI MARA LOBO 08:15 11:20
N8/P2 421/454 LOBO MASAI MARA 08:15 12:40
P2/N8 453/422 MASAI MARA SERENGETI SOUTH 08:15 11:20
N8/P2 421/454 SERENGETI SOUTH MASAI MARA 8:15 12:40
P2/N8 453/422 MASAI MARA SASAKWA 08:15 11:20
N8/P2 421/454 SASAKWA MASAI MARA 08:15 12:40
P2/N8 453/422 MASAI MARA GRUMETI 08:15 11:20
N8/P2 421/454 GRUMETI MASAI MARA 08:15 12:40
• Daily service; minimum of 2 pax per strip to operate except 1st April - 31st May & 1st Nov - 15th Dec requires minimum 4 pax per strip.
• Flight services route via Migori and Tarime
• AirKenya provides road transfer and ground handling between Migori and Tarime.
• Service operates into multiple airstrips therefore pick up and drop off tmings may vary depending on aircraft routing.
• The service connects Airkenya Masai Mara services with Regional Air/Auric Air/Coastal Aviation Serengeti services.
MASAI MARA - UGANDA VIA KISUMU / ENTEBBE
FLT NO FROM TO DEPART ARRIVE
P2 551 MASAI MARA ENTEBBE 08:15 11:00
P2 552 ENTEBBE MASAI MARA 11:45 14:30
P2/A8* 551/121 MASAI MARA KIHIHI (BINP) 08:15 15:30
A8*/P2 112/552 KIHIHI(BINP) MASAI MARA 08:35 14:30
P2/A8* 551/ 121 MASAI MARA KASESE(KFNP & QENP) 08:15 15:30
A8*/P2 112/552 KASESE(KFNP & QENP) MASAI MARA 08:35 14:30
P2/A8* 551/121 MASAI MARA BUGUNGU/PAKUBA/ CHOBE(MFNP) 08:15 14:00
A8*/P2 112/552 KISORO(BINP) MASAI MARA 08:35 14:30
• Daily service; minimum of 4 pax per sector to operate except 1st April - 31st May & 1st Nov - 15th Dec whereby the service will be non-operational.
• Flight services route via Kisumu and Entebbe Airports for Customs and Immigration.
• Service operates into multiple airstrips therefore pick up and drop off timings may vary depending on aircraft routing.
• Masai Mara - Entebbe flight service connects the same day to all AeroLink airstrips except Kisoro which strictly operates in the morning. Early morning flight Kisoro - Entebbe flight service, however can connect the same day into the Masai Mara.
• BINP - Bwindi Impenetrable National Park
• QENP - Queen Elizabeth National Park
• MFNP - Murchison Falls National Park
• KFNP - Kibale Forest National Park
HIGH SEASON: 21 DEC 2024 - 28 FEBRUARY 2025; 01 JUN 2025 - 31 OCT 2025
LOW SEASON: 01 MARCH - 31 MAY 2025; 01 NOV - 15 DEC 2025
• Valid from 21st December 2024 to 20th December 2025
• CHECK IN is done 60 minutes to departure time in Nairobi (Wilson), Kilimanjaro, Kisumu and Entebbe Airports. Passengers will not be allowed to check in 30 minutes to departure time on the mentioned airports.
• Check in time for all bush airstrips is 30 minutes before flight departure time.
• Contact Airkenya Operations department on the morning of the scheduled flight to get approximate arrival and departure times for various bush airstrips.
• Airkenya guarantees all its connecting flights within Kenya and across East Africa in conjunction with its subsidiaries; Regional Air Services and AeroLink Uganda.
• Contact the Charter department for tailor-made services or if the scheduled service does not meet your requirements: charters@airkenya.com
• Airkenya reserves the right to change departure times or carrier when so required for operational, weather or safety reasons.
Email resvns@airkenya.com or call +254 (0)20 391 6000 for further clarification.
Contact the Charter department for tailor-made services or if the scheduled service does not meet your requirements: charters@airkenya.com
• Due to the prevailing weather conditions, Kisoro will operate in the early morning and midmorning
• Kisoro has a surcharge of USD 70 per person.
• From Kisoro airstrip passengers can connect to:- Kihihi and Kasese airstrips on request at seat rate.
• Flight 112 from Kisoro, passengers can connect to Masai Mara Via Entebbe and Kisumu for Immigration.
• Flight 117/118 will operate all year except March, April, May and November
BWINDI IMPENETRABLE FOREST NATIONAL PARK (NORTH)
FLT NO FROM TO DEPART ARRIVE
A8* 111 ENTEBBE KIHIHI 0700 0815
A8* 112 KIHIHI ENTEBBE 0835 1125
A8* 117 ENTEBBE KIHIHI 1030 1145
A8* 118 KIHIHI ENTEBBE 1205 1425
• Timings may vary depending on aircraft routing.
• Flight 112 from Kihihi passengers can connect onwards to Masai Mara Via Entebbe and Kisumu for Immigration
• Flight 117/118 will operate all year except March, April, May and November
• From Kihihi Airstrip passengers can connect to: - Kisoro and Kasese airstrips on request at seat rate.
A8* 121 ENTEBBE KIHIHI 1300 1530
A8* 122 KIHIHI ENTEBBE 1550 1715
• Flt A8*121/122 will operate all year except March, April, May and November
• Flight 121 may route via Murchison Falls National Park subject to loads
A8* 131 ENTEBBE KIHIHI 1300 1410
A8* 132 KIHIHI ENTEBBE 1430 1615
• Flt A8* 131/132 will operate in March, April, May and November
KIBALE FOREST NATIONAL PARK AND QUEEN ELIZABETH NATIONAL PARK
DAILY SERVICE: Flight to/from Kasese will operate with a minimum of 2 passengers
FLT NO FROM TO DEPART ARRIVE
A8* 111 ENTEBBE KASESE 0700 0815
A8* 112 KASESE ENTEBBE 0835 1125
A8* 117 ENTEBBE KASESE 1030 1145
A8* 118 KASESE ENTEBBE 1205 1425
• Timings may vary depending on aircraft routing.
• Flight 112 from Kasese passengers can connect onwards to Masai Mara Via Entebbe and Kisumu for Immigration
• Flight 117/118 will operate all year except March, April, May and November
• From Kasese Airstrip passengers can connect to: - Kihihi and Kisoro airstrips on request at seat rate.
A8* 121 ENTEBBE KASESE 1300 1530
A8* 122 KASESE ENTEBBE 1550 1715
• Flt A8*121/122 will operate all year except March, April, May and November
• Flight 121 may route via Murchison Falls National Park subject to loads.
A8* 131 ENTEBBE KASESE 1300 1410
A8* 132 KASESE ENTEBBE 1430 1615
• Flt A8* 131/132 will operate in March, April, May and November
FLIGHT SCHEDULE
MURCHISON FALLS NATIONAL PARK (PAKUBA, CHOBE & BUGUNGU AIRSTRIPS)
DAILY SERVICE EXCEPT MARCH, APRIL, MAY AND NOVEMBER.
FLT NO FROM TO
• Timings may vary depending on aircraft routing.
• Flight to/from Murchison will operate with a minimum of 4 passengers
• Flt A8*121/122 will operate all year except March, April, May and November whereby the service will be non-operational.
• From Murchison, passengers can connect to:- Kasese and Kihihi airstrips
Murchison Falls National Park – KFNP, QENP & BINP
• Timings may vary depending on aircraft routing.
• Flight from Murchison to Kasese/Kihihi will operate with a minimum of 4 passengers
• Flt A8*121 will operate all year except March, April, May and November whereby the service will be non-operational.
KFNP- Kibale Forest National Park (Kasese airstrip)
QENP - Queen Elizabeth National Park (Kasese airstrip)
BINP - Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park (Kihihi airstrip)
MASAI MARA - ENTEBBE
DAILY SERVICE EXCEPT APRIL, MAY, 1ST NOVEMBER TO 15TH DECEMBER
P2 551 MASAI MARA ENTEBBE 0815 1100
P2 552 ENTEBBE MASAI MARA 1145 1430
P2 551 MASAI MARA *KISUMU 0815 0920 P2 552 *KISUMU MASAI MARA 1325 1430
P2 551 *KISUMU ENTEBBE 1000 1100
P2 552 ENTEBBE *KISUMU 1145 1245
• Timings may vary depending on aircraft routing.
• *Flight services route via Kisumu and Entebbe Airports for Customs and Immigration
• Mara Entebbe flight will operate with minimum of 4 pax per sector to operate except April, May & 1st Nov - 15th Dec whereby the service will be non-operational.
• Airkenya requires a minimum of 2 pax per airstrip in Maasai Mara to operate.
• From Masai Mara, passengers can connect to: Kihihi, Kasese, Pakuba, Chobe, and Bugungu
Notes
• CHECK IN TIME is 60 minutes to departure time at Entebbe International Airport
• Check in time for all bush airstrips is 30 minutes before flight departure time.
• Contact AeroLink Operations department on the morning of the scheduled flight to get approximate arrival and departure times for various bush airstrips.
• AeroLink ONLY guarantees flights within its route network and subsidiaries
• Flight to/from Jinja to Kisoro/Kihihi/Kasese/ Murchison Falls on request at a surcharge of USD 1000
• AeroLink reserves the right to change departure times or carrier when so required for operational, weather or safety reasons.
• Contact the Charter department for tailor-made services or if the scheduled service does not meet your requirements: charters@aerolinkuganda.com
AEROLINK AIRCRAFT FLEET
CESSNA GRAND CARAVAN C208B
Manufacturer: Cessna Aircraft Company, USA
Crew: 2 pilots
Passengers: Maximum 11
Description: STOL Aircraft with fixed undercarriage ideal for African bush flying
