Tastes from The Kilted Chef Plus: Award winning beverages Sputnik veggies and more
13
5
A sip of local pride
Atlantic Canadian beverages keep raking in awards by TREVOR
J. ADAMS
8 Sputnik veggies and watermelon radishes
Look to your local farmers markets for a taste beyond the ordinary by JODI DELONG
13 Serving great dishes and memories
The Kilted Chef looks back on his tenure as food editor of Saltscapes by JODI DELONG
20 Eating with purpose
A shared love of local cuisine by COLLEEN THOMPSON
26
Fast and fresh
Celebrate spring with delighful local flavours by CRYSTAL MURRAY
A sip of local pride Atlantic Canadian beverages keep raking in the awards
by TREVOR J. ADAMS
America’s bizarre trade war on Canada means that many U.S. wines, spirits, and beers disappeared from Canadian stores recently, with a host of local beverages filling the void. That’s a boon, as East Coast creations hold their own with the world’s best.
When you’re finding your new favourites, there are so many good options that it’s hard to know where to start, so we offer this opinionated guide to some of our favourite Atlantic Canadian drinks, focusing on recent award winners.
Deep roots
Decades ago, a handful of visionary vintners saw the potential for Nova Scotia to create wines that would rank with the world’s best. Facing long odds and much skepticism, they built a thriving wine industry. The Lieutenant-Governor’s Award for Excellence in Nova Scotia Wines annually honours their labours. 2024’s winners include Brut Réserve (a light and zesty chardonnay from Blomidon Estate Winery in Canning), the 2020 Gaspereau Reserve Riesling
WHERE TO BUY
Many of these drinks are made in small batches, and the selection in stores changes constantly. For the best variety and price, local devotees buy direct from producers. Most sell at farmers markets, have their own shops, or peddle online with various shipping and delivery options.
(complex, oaky, and unusually dry for the style) from Gaspereau Vineyards, Lightfoot & Wolfville Vineyards’ 2018 Brut and 2021 Brut Rosé (both brilliant, vivacious, and shockingly flavourful), and 2022 Chardonnay (crisp minerality with a smooth finish, thanks to eight months in French oak) from friendly little Planters Ridge Winery in Port Williams.
Rum is Nova Scotia’s favourite spirit. In Lunenburg, Ironworks Distillery produces Ten, a traditional rum aged for a decade in bourbon barrels. Nuanced, with notes of toffee and vanilla, best served neat. Ideally in front of a roaring fire by the ocean.
Nova Scotia also boasts many award-winning craft breweries. Church Brewing in Wolfville recently won Best Beverage at the Restaurant Association of Nova Scotia’s annual awards, while Shelburne’s Boxing Rock claimed Brewery of the Year at the 2024 Canadian Brewing Awards. At Church, we recommend the crisp and refreshing Blonde ale, while Boxing Rock’s boozy Vicar’s Cross Double IPA is essential for lovers of big hoppy flavour.
Beer country
New Brunswick is also fecund beer territory, with brewers working in a variety of styles to make beers that ranked among the country’s best at the Canadian Brewing Awards.
Diggin’ Oat Stout (full-bodied, with roast coffee notes) from Grimross Brewing in Fredericton and Mild Sedation (malty, crisp, and clean) from Long Bay Brewery in Rothesay both took gold, in the Oatmeal Stout and Low-alcohol Beer categories respectively. Tiki Bar (tart and crip)
NON-ALCOHOLIC MOCHA STOUT COCKTAIL
Servings: 1
This booze-free cocktail is an ideal spring day pick-me-up, showcasing Libra Non-Alcoholic Stout from Upstreet Brewing in Charlottetown, P.E.I. To make a hard version, substitute any dry stout beer, ideally an Atlantic Canadian one.
INGREDIENTS
Equal parts:
Libra Non-Alcoholic Stout
Chilled coffee
Unsweetened oat milk
Garnish: Grated dark chocolate
DIRECTIONS
Brew a pot of locally roasted coffee and allow it to cool completely. Fill glass 1/3 full with stout, followed with equal parts chilled coffee and unsweetened oat milk. Top with grated dark chocolate.
Source: Upstreet/Instagram
STEVE SMITH,
from funky little Tire Shack Brewing in Moncton also won gold for German-style Sour Ale.
Near Fredericton in McLeod’s Hill, Sunset Heights Meadery has almost single-handedly created the East Coast mead scene, producing a dizzying array of flavours and styles under its Pollen Angels label. Queen’s Nectar carbonated mead (light and sweet without being cloying) is a perennial favourite. Sunset Heights has won dozens of regional, national, and international awards, and is Canada’s top ranked meadery on the Untappd beerrating app.
Island extremes
With its proud agrarian heritage, it’s no surprise that P.E.I. has embraced craft cider. Pommeau de l’Ile from Red Island Cider in Charlottetown is the Cadillac of Island ciders, aged in Hungarian oak and weighing in at a whopping 18 per cent alcohol by volume, warm and sweet, more
like an icewine than a traditional cider. It won the Best-in-Class award for Fortified Cider at the prestigious Great Lakes International Cider & Perry Competition.
At the other end of the spectrum, P.E.I. also has a treat for teetotalers. Libra Pale Ale (tropical and crisp) from Upstreet Brewing in Charlottetown is likely to be the tastiest alcohol-free beer you’ve tried. It won bronze in the No- to Low-alcohol Beer category at the Canadian Brewing Awards.
On the eastern side of the province, the town of Montague boasts two breweries that also won at those awards. Proper Pub Ale from Bogside Brewing delivers exactly what the name promises (nothing showy; a perfectly executed straightforward, malty sipper) and earned silver in the English Bitter category. Meanwhile, Copper Bottom Brewing took bronze in the Americanstyle Black Ale category for Eclipse (aggressively, and delightfully, hoppy).
World beaters
The folks at Newfoundland Distilling Company are justifiably chuffed over last year’s Double Gold Medal win and Best of Class finalist selection at the San Francisco World Spirit Competition. Their Newfoundland Whisky isn’t just a spirit, it’s a statement, marrying Old World techniques with local ingredients, likely the first ever commercial use of Newfoundland barley. And it works: its distinctive smoothness and vanilla notes wowed a panel of 70 judges who gave it 97 out of a possible 100 points.
The Rock’s brewing scene continues to draw plaudits as well, giving us two more Canadian Brewing Award winners. Under Da’Sea (full bodied, notes of chocolate and coffee) from Dildo Brewing Co. (stop tittering, that’s the town’s name) won silver in the Imperial Stout category. And in Deer Lake, Sou’Wester (zingy and light) from Rough Waters Brewing earned bronze in the German-style Sour Ale category.
Sputnik veggies and watermelon radishes
Look to your local farmers markets for a taste beyond the ordinary
by JODI DeLONG
There is a world of produce out there beyond what you find at the supermarket. Take rainbow carrots, which have recently become popular, although they’ve been harvested for generations. Part of the allure is the beautiful colours and there are health benefits, from the concentration of beneficial antioxidants such as lycopenes and anthocyanins in the different hues. They taste great and are pretty on your plate.
Sometimes, you want to try a new vegetable or fruit, and local vendors often sell smaller amounts than supermarkets do, so you don’t have to feel guilty if you don’t like a product. For many years, the most common mushroom sold was the field mushroom, then gradually, others came into the market. Some producers grow different mushrooms such as oyster (in various colours), chestnut, and lion’s mane, each with its own particular flavours and recommended uses.
Next time you’re grocery shopping, try something new from your farmers market or roadside stand. You may discover your next favourite. Bear in mind, these crops may be available at different times of the growing season, and not at all markets.
Watermelon radish are aesthetically pleasing and tasty veggies, white and green on the outside, watermelon-red on the inside. Wonderful in salads and stir-fries.
Watermelon radish
Pattypan squash look like a space-age veggie, resembling a small flying saucer. They can come in yellow or green, like zucchini. Small ones are delicious roasted, sautéed, or grilled, while you can stuff and bake or air fry larger ones.
Kohlrabi
Patypan summer s qash
Sometimes referred to as the sputnik vegetable, kolhrabi is relative of cabbage and broccoli comes in greenishwhite or purple-skinned varieties. It’s excellent in stir-fries and chopped salads, tasting like a mild cross between turnip and a cabbage.
Udumpalmet e ggpl
One of the more unusual eggplants, Udumpalmet are the size of a large egg, and colourfully striped. They lend themselves nicely to curries, ratatouille, and other dishes where eggplant stars.
Salsify root
Salsify is sometimes called vegetable oyster or oyster plant because its roots taste a bit like the shellfish. Related to dandelion, this starchy vegetable makes a good substitute for potatoes, or other root vegetables, and its greens are edible, too.
Tomatoes don’t just come in red anymore. A visit to a market will show off heritage varieties in a wealth of sizes, shapes and colours. From orange to “black,” purple to white, each has its own flavour.
Heritagetomatoes
We’ve all cussed prickly sticky burdock, but did you know it’s a delicacy in Japan? There it’s called gobo and is enjoyed for its roots, used as a fall vegetable.
Aronia berries
Aronia is a native Canadian shrub commonly called chokeberries (not to be confused with chokecherries). It’s a great ornamental garden plant and its berries are tart and high in antioxidants.
Red shiso
Red Burgandyok ra
The handsome, red-leafed shiso makes an excellent addition to salads, wraps and other dishes, described as being spicy-floral in flavour.
A member of the same botanical family as hollyhocks and hibiscus, this okra has beautiful creamy yellow hibiscus-esque blooms that grow into edible red pods. Best harvested when eight to 10 centimetres long, okra is tender when young.
Inca
berry
Summer calls for watermelon, and for something a little different in your fruit salad or charcuterie board, Early Moonbeam boasts yellow flesh, ripens in early September most years, and is very sweet.
Various types of fruit.
Early Moonbea m watermel on
Also known as Cape gooseberry or golden berry, Incaberry is a relative of tomatoes and peppers andstronger in flavour than you might expect. Growers describe them as intensely sweet yet tart, ideal in preserves or compote.
You might not think we can grow Asian pears, pomegranates, figs, pawpaws or mulberries here in the region, but you’d be wrong. Hardy varieties of these fruits are allowing for growers to experiment with adding new crops to their offerings.
These are just some of the experiences waiting for you to try. Farmers are always keen to try new crops, many of which can be grown by home gardeners, too. Do you have a new-to-you fruit, vegetable, or herb experience you’d like to tell us about? Write to us at letters@saltscapes.com.
Serving great dishes and memories
The Kilted Chef looks back on his tenure as food editor for Saltscapes
by JODI DeLONG
VISIONFIRE
Readers of Saltscapes met Alain Bossé, AKA the Kilted Chef, in our last issue of 2008.
The magazine’s founding food editor, the late Marie Nightingale, wrote a story about Alain, who had been a popular cooking demonstrator at the Saltscapes Expo, well known from his time as general manager of the Pictou Lodge. He would be taking over the role of our food editor.
“Jim and Linda Gourlay (the retired founders of Saltscapes) got in touch with us, wondering if we might like to put our hat in,” Alain says from the Bossé kitchen in Pictou, N.S. “They were doing a little competition and had three chefs as possibilities, and they picked us. They knew us from our involvement in Taste of Nova Scotia, and they liked what we were doing with local foods, and so we came on board.” Alain always includes
photography by STEVE SMITH,
Alain and Johanne Bossé with their beloved dachshund Figgy, at their farm in Pictou, N.S.
“Alain says that COVID hit restaurant operators especially hard. “But it also inspired the whole cook-at-home movement. It made us all look at our own pantries and rediscover the fun of making meals”
his wife Johanne in his conversations, because she’s also partner in the Kilted Chef business. She (along with several editors) would nag him about deadlines, and help with interviews and recipe development. Plus, she’s a fabulous baker.
Alain loved doing the food pages for Saltscapes for nearly 15 years. “There was always excitement, along with deadline panic,” he says. “We loved finding the gem, the little place that no one knows about, that special restaurant or producer doing something outside the box … and there are so many local gems, both the new and the tested and true.”
He speaks fondly of traditional favourites but also the pleasure of meeting new arrivals, new farmers and producers doing different things, and the delights of all the different cultures and recipes now available in our region. “We have a heavy influence from Mexico, from India, from many Middle East ethnicities,” Alain says, “All who both introduce new foods and incorporate their ideas into well-loved traditional recipes.” One of his favourite dishes is tandoori seafood chowder from Dhaba, an Indian restaurant in Halifax. “They take their culture and ethnicity and bring it to Atlantic Canada in a way that we can all get excited about.”
Alain says that COVID hit restaurant operators especially hard. “But it also inspired the whole cook-at-home movement. It made us all look at our own pantries and rediscover the fun of making meals.” At the same time, he says, comfort food has made a big surge in popularity. “People go out to treat themselves, and it’s not always gourmet-type food that they want. We see many restaurants that are
doing well, have responded to that demand for comfort style cooking.”
Do they each have a favourite recipe from the archives? Johanne is prompt to answer: hers is a bok choy salad that was a recipe contest winner some years ago, which she still enjoys making. Alain is a little slower. “We did every recipe with our heart and soul, so picking one is sort of like picking a favourite child.” He adds, “my village Greek salad recipe, my French onion soup, those would be two that I brought to the magazine from my past and still make today. And then there were the recipes we developed based on interviews with producers and chefs we were writing about.”
While he’s hung up his editorial hat, Alain isn’t idle. During COVID when everyone was staying the blazes home, he and Johanne began a series of live cooking shows on Facebook. This turned into some 700 shows on social media. They now do much shorter shows, but they do them regularly, recording several at a time to post when away with other work. They are both very active with buy-local programs such as Nova Scotia Loyal, and continue to work as consultants for restaurant makeovers, and developing recipes for businesses around Atlantic Canada. But they make time to relax with their dachshund, Figgy, and exploring with their new RV.
Alain and Johanne share a huge nod of appreciation to the Gourlays for giving them the chance to work with Saltscapes and for what they’ve done to build the brand and promote all things local. “We learned to love Jim in his own way — we were very much intimidated by him until we got to know him better — and he and Linda gave their hearts and souls to the magazine.”
A taste from the Kilted Chef
A fresh twist on old favourites
by ALAIN AND JOHANNE BOSSÉ
recipe prep and food styling by ERIN PETTIPAS photography by STEVE
SMITH, VISIONFIRE
Charred Spring Vegetables with Garlic Chive Cream
Serves 4-6
Inspired by a beloved recipe for hodge podge, this version adds chives to a creamy sauce to make the flavours pop.
INGREDIENTS:
2 cups (500 mL) baby carrots, halved lengthwise
2 cups (500 mL) small new potatoes, halved
1 cup (250 mL) green beans, trimmed
1 cup (250 mL) yellow beans, trimmed
1 cup (250 mL) sugar snap peas, trimmed
1 tbsp (15 mL) olive oil
Salt and black pepper to taste
For the Garlic Chive Sauce
1 cup (250 mL) heavy cream
1 tbsp (15 mL) butter
2 cloves garlic, finely minced
1 tbsp (15 mL) fresh chives, chopped
1 tsp (5 mL) Dijon mustard
1/2 tsp (2 mL) smoked paprika
METHOD
1. Parboil the veggies. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add potatoes and cook for 5 minutes. Add carrots and cook for another 3 minutes. Drain and pat dry.
2. Grill for char. Preheat a grill or grill pan over medium-high heat. Toss potatoes, carrots, green beans, yellow beans, and snap peas with olive oil, salt, and pepper. Grill for about 3-5 minutes, turning occasionally, until they have light char marks and are crisp-tender.
3. Make the Garlic Chive Cream. In a small saucepan, heat butter over medium heat. Add minced garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in cream, Dijon mustard, and smoked paprika. Simmer gently for 3 minutes, then stir in chives and remove from heat.
4. Arrange the charred vegetables on a serving platter and drizzle with the warm garlic chive cream. Garnish with extra chives and a sprinkle of flaky sea salt.
Buttered Lobster & Dill Potato Cups
Serves 4
Want a lobster dish that will wow family and friends without breaking the bank? This is a delightful alternative to the traditional lobster roll, with potato cups holding the lobster.
INGREDIENTS:
4 medium Yukon Gold or red potatoes
10–12 oz (300-350 mL) fresh lobster meat, chopped
2 tbsp (30 mL) mayonnaise
1 tbsp (15 mL) sour cream
2 oz (175 mL) fresh dill, finely chopped
Juice from 1/2 lime
Juice from 1/4 lemon
1 tsp (5 mL) Dijon mustard
Pinch of salt
Fresh ground black pepper
2 tbsp (30 mL) melted butter
1 tbsp (15 mL) chives, chopped (for garnish)
METHOD
1. Prepare the potato cups. Preheat oven to 400F/200C. Wash the potatoes and pierce them with a fork. Rub with a bit of oil and bake for 35-40 minutes until tender. Let cool slightly, then slice in half and scoop out some of the flesh, leaving a thin shell. Brush the insides with melted butter and return to the oven for 10 minutes until golden and crisp.
2. Make the lobster filling. In a bowl, mix lobster meat with mayonnaise, sour cream, dill, lime juice, lemon juice, Dijon mustard, salt, and black pepper.
3. Spoon the lobster mixture into the crispy potato cups. Garnish with fresh chives and serve warm.
Grilled Seafood Panzanella with Charred Lemon Dressing
Serves 4-6
An Atlantic Canadian twist on an Italian bread salad, flavourful and easy.
INGREDIENTS:
4 cups (950 mL) crusty sourdough or baguette, cut into cubes
1 cup (250 mL) cherry tomatoes, halved
1/2 English cucumber, sliced
1/2 small red onion, thinly sliced
1/2 cup (125 mL) fresh basil leaves
8 oz (225 g) grilled scallops
1/4 cup (60 mL) capers, drained Olive oil for grilling
Dressing
1 lemon, halved and grilled until slightly charred
1/4 cup (60 mL) olive oil
2 tbsp (30 mL) red wine vinegar
1 tsp (5 mL) Dijon mustard
1 clove garlic, minced Salt and black pepper, to taste
METHOD
1. Grill bread and seafood. Preheat the grill to medium heat. Drizzle bread cubes with olive oil and grill for 2–3 minutes per side until crisp. Brush scallops with oil and grill until just cooked through (2–3 minutes per side). Set aside.
2. Make the dressing. Squeeze the juice from the grilled lemon into a bowl. Whisk in olive oil, red wine vinegar, Dijon mustard, garlic, salt, and black pepper.
3. Assemble the salad. In a large bowl, combine grilled bread, tomatoes, cucumber, red onion, and basil. Add grilled seafood and capers. Drizzle with dressing and toss gently to combine.
4. Let the salad sit for 10 minutes so the bread absorbs the dressing. Serve immediately with extra basil on top.
Wild Blueberry Bruschetta with Annapolis Fromage Blanc Spread
Serves 4-6
A new recipe celebrating an East Coast favourite, wild blueberries, with a recently developed local soft cheese.
For the Bruschetta
1 baguette, sliced into 12-16 pieces
2 tbsp (30 mL) olive oil
1 cup (250 mL) fresh wild blueberries
1/4 cup (60 mL) fresh basil, finely chopped
1 tbsp (15 mL) lime zest
1 tbsp (15 mL) lime juice
1 tbsp (15 mL) honey
Salt and black pepper, to taste
For the Fromage Blanc Spread
1 cup (250 mL) Annapolis Fromage Blanc
1 tbsp (15 mL) lime juice
1 tbsp (15 mL) honey
1/2 tsp (2 mL) vanilla extract
METHOD
1. Prepare the grilled bread. Preheat the grill to medium-high heat. Brush both sides of the baguette slices with olive oil. Grill for about 2 minutes per side, until crisp and lightly charred. Remove and set aside.
2. Make the wild blueberry topping. In a medium bowl, gently toss wild blueberries, basil, lime zest, lime juice, honey, salt, and black pepper until well combined.
3. Prepare the Fromage Blanc Spread. In a small bowl, mix Fromage Blanc, lime juice, honey, and vanilla extract until smooth and creamy.
4. Assemble the Bruschetta. Spread a generous layer of the Fromage Blanc mixture on each grilled baguette slice. Top with a spoonful of the wild blueberry mixture.
5. Arrange on a platter and garnish with extra lime zest and fresh basil leaves if desired. Serve immediately.
Eating with purpose
A shared love of local cuisine
by COLLEEN THOMPSON
With turmoil and tariffs in the news and a climate of economic uncertainty, it’s more important than ever to seek out produce grown close to home.
Supporting local isn’t just a trendy hashtag; it’s a mindset and way of life. When we eat at restaurants where chefs collaborate with producers and home cooks become mindful of where our food comes from, it circulates money back into our communities, creates jobs, and minimizes environmental impact.
“It is so much more than just looking at local,” says Chef Gabrielle LeGuerrier of GourmetGab Private Dining and Events in Halifax. “It’s about sourcing from thoughtful, sustainable farmers and suppliers focused on producing small-scale delicious ingredients. You can taste the difference when you purchase ingredients grown and produced within a few miles of you. Small-scale also often means rare and exciting. It’s a win-win. Farmers are some of the hardest-working people I know. I’m so proud to tell their stories at the table at every single interactive GourmetGab event, and I feel it’s essential to give them credit for what they produce and grow for me on the plate.”
Chef Kim MacPherson’s vision for Lupin Dining in Musquodoboit Harbour, N.S., revolves around the art of cooking with hyper-local, seasonal ingredients of the highest quality. At Lupin, simplicity is key, allowing the ingredients to take centre stage. This approach requires refined skills and a commitment to getting ingredients from nearby farmers and growers.
“Sourcing locally has been my
priority since I started working in kitchens,” says MacPherson. “I grew up in farm-to-table restaurants, where it was common for farmers to drop off fresh vegetables just hours after being harvested. That deep-rooted connection to fresh, seasonal ingredients has always been second nature, especially having grown up on a farm. Growing my produce for our menus allows me to experiment with new varieties and flavours.”
For MacPherson, the experience extends beyond just sourcing. It’s about building relationships with farmers, shopping at farmers markets and engaging with producers to discover what’s in season, what’s at its peak, and what’s new. It’s in these moments where she’s forged lasting connections with some of her favourite suppliers, like earthy lion’s mane mushrooms from Maritime Gourmet, delicate pink oyster mushrooms from Mushaboom, crisp, flavourful apples from Noggins Farm, Roma Cheese and its rich, creamy Taleggio, Oulton’s humanely and sustainably raised duck, and fresh sea asparagus from local foragers. Each ingredient tells the story of Nova Scotia’s diverse food scene.
Chef Michael Smith lives that mindset too. An advocate for P.E.I. seafood and produce, he showcases the region’s world-class oysters at his Fireworks Feast at the Inn at Bay Fortune. The ember-roasted oysters smothered in house-made butter and farm-grown lovage testify to the quality ingredients, the timeless tradition of Island cooking, and Smith’s commitment to elevating the authentic flavours of P.E.I.
“Sharing local food ingredients at your table has always been a powerful way to connect with the community around you. Your family’s flavours are another family story, too,” says Smith.
Chef and owner Chris Aerni of Rossmount Inn in Chamcook, N.B., says the essence of Rossmount’s food is rooted in a sense of place. “When we say local, we mean as close to our kitchen garden
C HRIS
as possible, whether the neighbouring woods, the shores of Chamcook, and the wider Charlotte County.” The seasons shape Aerni’s menu, which means it’s constantly evolving.
In spring, it includes vibrant greens from Little Eden vegetables, rich Wabanaki maple syrup, and delicate sunchokes and chervil from the inn’s garden. As the seasons shift, so do the ingredients: “Wild blueberries from Granite Town Farms, wax beans from Troy’s Country Market, or fiddleheads, goose tongues, and spruce shoots that are foraged,” says Aerni.
Aerni has seen a shift in how people dine. “Even the more exotic ingredients, once reserved for export markets, are beginning to find their way to local tables,” he says. “Sea urchins, a true delicacy in the Maritimes, are often exported, but I believe we’ll start seeing them more in our local fish markets. The same goes for caviar, Acadian Caviar produces an exceptional product, and I foresee it becoming more prominent.”
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This vibrant, flavourful dish features roasted cauliflower steaks, perfectly seasoned with cumin and a rich, borscht-style sauce. It is complemented by white wine-braised cabbage, tender wilted chard, and a creamy finish of crème fraîche. Earthy, tangy, and savoury, each component adds its own unique texture and taste. It’s perfect for a vegetarian main course or a hearty side.
INGREDIENTS
Cauliflower Steaks
1 large cauliflower cut into 4 thick steaks
2 tbsp (30 mL) olive oil
1 tsp (5 mL) ground cumin Salt and black pepper, to taste
2 tbsp (30 mL) unsalted butter, melted
Borscht-Style Sauce
1 tbsp (15 mL) olive oil
1 small onion, diced
1 carrot, diced
1 celery stalk, diced
2 large beets, peeled and grated
½ cup (125 mL) cabbage, shredded
1 small apple, peeled and diced
½ tsp (2.5 mL) caraway seeds
1 tbsp (15 mL) red wine vinegar
½ cup (125 mL) vegetable stock
½ tsp (2.5 mL) salt
¼ tsp (1.25 mL) black pepper
White Wine Braised Cabbage
1½ cups (375 mL) green or Savoy cabbage, thinly sliced
½ cup (125 mL) dry white wine
½ cup (125 mL) vegetable stock
1 tbsp (15 mL) unsalted butter
½ tsp (2.5 mL) salt
¼ tsp (1.25 mL) black pepper
Wilted Chard
1 bunch of Swiss chard, stems removed, leaves roughly chopped
1 tbsp (15 mL) olive oil or butter
1 garlic clove, minced
Salt and black pepper, to taste
Garnish
¼ cup (60 mL) crème fraîche (or plain Greek yogurt)
METHOD
Roast the cauliflower steaks
Preheat the oven to 400F/200C. Brush both sides of the cauliflower steaks with olive oil and season with ground cumin, salt, and black pepper. Heat a large oven-safe skillet over medium-high heat. Sear the cauliflower steaks for 2-3 minutes per side until golden brown. Brush with melted butter, transfer to the oven, and roast for 15-20 minutes until tender but firm.
Make the sauce
In a saucepan over medium heat, heat the olive oil. Sauté the onion, carrot, and celery until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the grated beet, shredded cabbage, diced apple, and caraway seeds. Cook for another 2 minutes. Stir in red wine vinegar, vegetable stock, salt, and pepper. Simmer for 10-15 minutes until the sauce thickens slightly. Blend for a smooth texture. Tip: Add 1-2 tbsp of olive oil when blending to make a velvety finish.
Braise the cabbage
Melt the butter in a pan over medium heat. Add the sliced cabbage and sauté for 2-3 minutes. Pour in the white wine and let it reduce slightly, about 2 minutes. Add the vegetable stock, salt, and black pepper. Reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer for 10-12 minutes, until the cabbage is tender but not mushy.
Wilt the chard
Heat olive oil in a pan over medium heat. Add garlic and cook for 30 seconds. Add chard and sauté for 2-3 minutes until just wilted and season with salt and pepper. Spread the borscht sauce on the plate in an artistic splatter. Place a small mound of braised cabbage in the centre. Add a spoonful of wilted chard over the cabbage, then a roasted cauliflower steak. Dot the plate with small dollops of crème fraîche or yogurt.
CHEF CHRIS AERNI’S
Fresh Uni Crudo
Serves 6
Exquisite and luxurious, this dish highlights the delicate flavours of fresh sea urchins (uni) and scallops. The creamy scrambled eggs, infused with the urchin’s briny liquid, provide a rich base, while the addition of caviar and fresh herbs brings elegance and freshness to the presentation. Served in the cleaned sea urchin shells, this dish is a sophisticated appetizer, perfect for seafood lovers and those looking to add a touch of the exotic.
INGREDIENTS
6 fresh whole sea urchins
3 fresh scallops, raw, thinly sliced
1 tbsp (15 mL) Acadian caviar
2 whole eggs
3 tbsp (45 mL) cream
2 tbsp (30 mL) of butter
Fresh chives or chervil for garnish
Black pepper to taste
METHOD
To clean the urchins, gently hold them upside down in the palm of your hand (they will not sting). Use small scissors and make a hole on the underside/soft side of the urchin. Cut a round
Did you know?
Sea urchin harvesting in Atlantic Canada kicks off in late fall and continues to early spring. Suited-up divers hand-pick these spiky treasures from the ocean floor to ensure quality and sustainability. Most of the harvest heads straight to Japan, where it’s a sought-after delicacy and fetches a premium price on the market. Check with your local seafood market or grocery store seafood section for availability. Trying them for the first time? Tell us what you think at saltscapes.com/contact-us
hole a little larger than the size of a golf ball into the shell. Pour the liquid through a fine mesh sieve into a bowl. Keep some of the liquid. It will provide the dish with umami flavours. Remove all the black and brown particles from the uni. Use a small espresso spoon to remove the five orange gonads very gently and set aside. Wash the uni shells clean and let dry on a plate.
Crack the eggs into a bowl, add three tablespoons of the strained liquid and the cream, and beat it with a whisk or fork for half a minute and season with black pepper.
Heat a non-stick pan on medium heat and add the butter. Once the butter is melted, scramble the eggs gently. Remove from heat when the eggs are still runny.
Fill the sea urchin shells with the scrambled eggs and evenly lay the scallop slices on top of the eggs and top them with the sea urchin pieces. Garnish with caviar and fresh chervil or chives.
If desired, add a tiny tip of a knife of wasabi to the dish for those who like it spicy.
CHEF GABRIELLE LeGUERRIER’S
Saint-Jacques à la Crème de Spinach et Récolte Locale
Serves 4
This French-style St Jacques recipe was created for a Parisian birthday celebration in Nova Scotia and highlights many local ingredients: seared Afishionado scallops, Snowyriver garlic, vibrant Taproot Farms spinach, lemony Abundant Acres Farm radish, butter from Cows Creamery, fresh cream from Knoydart, Coastal Grove Farms chive blossoms, and Halifax Greens pea shoots.
INGREDIENTS:
4 Afishionado scallops sea salt and pepper
2 tbsp (30 mL) canola oil
4 yellow potatoes, peeled and quartered
3 tbsp (45 mL) Cow’s Creamery butter, cubed
1 tbsp (15 mL) grainy mustard
1 lemon
1 small bunch of Abundant Acres radishes
1 cup (250 mL) of Knoydart Farm cream
2 cloves Snowy River Farms garlic
1 bay leaf
1 small bag of Taproot Farms spinach Chive blossoms and pea shoots to garnish
METHOD
Place fresh scallops between two sheets of paper towel to remove any moisture.
Place a small pot on a low heat with cream, garlic and bay leaf.
Peel and halve the potatoes. Cover in water and put on the stove to boil. Cook until a knife inserted goes quickly through the potato. Drain and mash. Add the cubed butter, mustard, and juice from half a lemon, and season generously.
Place the garlic-infused cream in a blender, adding your thoroughly washed spinach. Blend on high until smooth. Season generously.
Pre-heat a cast iron pan to high and season scallops with sea salt. When the pan is smoking, place scallops in the pan with canola oil. Do not touch until a golden line is formed. Remove from the pan and onto a fresh paper towel. Thinly slice the radishes and mix with a touch of salt and a squeeze of lemon juice. Set aside.
Plate your scallops and potatoes and add vibrant spinach cream. Lastly, garnish with pea shoots, radish, and chive flowers.
Fresh and fast
Celebrate spring with delightful local flavours
by CRYSTAL MURRAY
As days get longer and the weather warms up, it’s the perfect time to celebrate with a delicious, effortless spread. Whether you’re planning a Mother’s Day brunch or a casual spring gathering, this collection of fresh and fast recipes will have you covered. From vibrant salsa verde to a showstopper strawberry rhubarb galette, these dishes are designed to be simple yet stunning, allowing you to spend less time in the kitchen and more time enjoying the company of loved ones. Let’s dive into these crowd-pleasers that capture the essence of spring!
photography by STEVE SMITH, VISIONFIRE recipes and styling by ERIN PETTIPAS
Strawberry Rhubarb Galette
Serves 8-10
INGREDIENTS
2 cups (500 mL) strawberries, sliced
2 cups (500 mL) rhubarb, sliced
1/3 cup (80 mL) brown sugar
Zest and juice of 1/2 lemon
1 tbsp (15 mL) honey + extra for drizzling
1 tbsp (15 mL) cornstarch
1 store bought puff pastry
1 egg, whisked with 1 tbsp (15 mL) water Basil
METHOD
Combine strawberries, rhubarb, sugar, zest and juice of 1/2 lemon, honey, and cornstarch. Allow to sit for about 30 minutes so the extra juices release.
Reduce juices in a small saucepan to make a sauce to drizzle over top of the ice cream or whipped cream.
Working quickly so the puff pastry keeps cold, add strawberry rhubarb mixture to the centre, setting aside extra juices. and spread out so there are about 2 inches of pastry around the whole diameter. You may want to cut it down for a cleaner look if necessary. Fold the edges over and brush with egg wash. Bake at 425F/218C for 20 minutes. Remove, drizzle with honey and fresh chopped basil, and serve with ice cream or whipped cream and strawberry-rhubarb drizzle.
Fresh Herb and Olive Salsa
Makes 1.5 cups
Serve over fresh fish, chicken, or steak.
INGREDIENTS
1 cup (250 mL) loosely packed parsley leaves, finely chopped
1/2 cup (125 mL) loosely packed basil leaves, finely chopped
1/2 cup green Castelvetrano olives, pitted and finely chopped
2 tbsp (30 mL) capers, chopped
2 tbsp (30 mL) capers brine
Zest and juice of 1 lemon
1 tsp (5 mL) salt
1/2 tsp (2.5 mL) pepper
1 tsp (5 mL) chili flakes or more to preference
1 clove garlic, very finely minced
1/2 cup (125 mL) olive oil
2 tbsp (30 mL) white wine vinegar
METHOD
Combine ingredients and taste for seasoning. Serve with entrée or fresh vegetables.
Pasta Salad with Veggies and Goat Cheese
Serves up to 12 as a side
Enjoy the bounty of local produce with this pasta salad.
INGREDIENTS
1 lb (500 g) short pasta such as rotini, cooked in generously salted water, drained and rinsed with cold water
½ cup (125 mL) olive oil
2 tbsp (30 mL) olive oil
1 zucchini, thinly sliced
1 bunch of asparagus, sliced into 2-inch pieces, discard woody ends
1 bunch green onions, cut into 2-inch pieces then sliced vertically
2 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
1/2 cup (125 mL) fresh basil, roughly chopped
1/2 cup (125 mL) goat cheese, crumbled Zest and juice of 1 lemon
Salt and pepper to taste Chili flakes to taste
METHOD
Cook pasta in generously salted water, drain and rinse with cold water. Transfer to large serving bowl.
Add 2 tbsp olive oil to a large hot skillet on medium high heat, sauté zucchini and asparagus for just a couple moments. You want the asparagus to be bright green and zucchini just softened and browned on the edges. Season with salt and pepper then remove from pan and add zucchini and asparagus to pasta.
Add 1/2 cup olive oil into pan with scallions and garlic, sauté just a couple minutes until garlic is fragrant and toss the flavoured oil with aromatics into the pasta. Add the zest of a lemon plus the juice, roughly chopped basil and chili flakes. Adjust to your heat preference. Top with goat cheese and garnish with extra basil, chili flakes, and lemon zest.
Miso Butter Lobster Roll
Serves 5-6
Enjoy a touch of exotic taste on your lobster roll with ginger-lime aioli, scallions, and cilantro.
INGREDIENTS
4 tbsp (60 mL) butter
1 tbsp (15 mL) miso
1/2 cup (125 mL) kewpie or regular mayonnaise
1 tsp (5 mL) grated fresh ginger
Zest and juice of 1/2 lime
1/4 tsp (1 mL) salt
5-6 brioche hot dog buns
1 lb (454 g) lobster meat
Cilantro, green onions, and sesame seeds to garnish
METHOD
Combine lobster meat, kewpie, lime, ginger, and sriracha.
Melt butter with miso and combine, brush onto the inside of each bun and then place in a 425F/218C degree oven for 3-4 minutes to warm and lightly toast.
Fill with the lobster mixture and top with sesame seeds, chopped scallions, and cilantro.
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