Adventures NW Spring 2013

ADVENTURES NW >>> SPRING.2013

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SPECIAL SECTION

SAN JUAN ISLANDS HIKING

ISLAND TRAILS

KAYAKING WITH ORCAS

RUNNING

FOR INSPIRATION

KAYAKING LEGEND REG LAKE EXPLORING NEZ PERCE COUNTRY FIT SCHOOL FOR WOMEN SECRETS OF THE SOUTHWEST

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CONTRIBUTORS Lance Ekhart is best known for his extreme sailing adventures but his longtime interest in photography has been rekindled in the San Juan Islands. His writing and photography has appeared in publications including 48North, Wooden Boat Magazine, and Nautical Quarterly, and his photography has been featured in numerous galleries around the Pacific Northwest. He can usually be found philosophizing and contemplating the universe aboard his boat, Elenoa in Anacortes, WA. Alyson Indrunas would like to thank the WTA blue and orange hats for sharing their trail crew expertise and enthusiasm. Who knew that sawing in the rain was so much fun? When she’s not walking or riding her bike on the trails, Alyson teaches composition courses at Everett Community College.

Cami Ostman is the author of Second Wind: One Woman’s Midlife Quest to Run Seven Marathons on Seven Continents (Seal Press) and is a longstanding member of the Greater Bellingham Running Club. She is a lifecoach, family therapist, and the co-director of the Wind Horse Half Marathon (which raises funds for one of Bellingham’s sister cities). She lives in Bellingham, Washington.

Ron Pattern is a lifelong resident of the great Pacific Northwest where the many shades of green, blue and gray permeate his paintings. The Bellingham-based artist grew up in Canada, lived in Colorado and settled in this cool green little city on the bay.

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SUMMER | 2013 Volume 8. Issue 1 Craig Romano is currently island hopping, researching his next book, Day Hiking San Juan and Gulf Islands. Author of nine guidebooks, his newest, Day Hiking Eastern Washington (with Rich Landers) is being released this spring! When not hiking and writing about hiking, he can often be found napping with his cats, Giuseppe and Scruffy Gray. Visit him at CraigRomano.com.

Ted Rosen is a well-traveled cynic who finds joy chronicling the outrageous. His expedition days may be behind him, but his tendency to surround himself with daredevils keeps him happily off-center.

Amanda Shearer-Hannah has lived in Bellingham for 10 years with her husband, Ned, and their two children, Kate and Max. Her passions are family, teaching math at Bellingham High School, and sports – running, cycling, figure skating, skiing, hiking, racquetball and working out at Bellingham Athletic Club.

Aaron Theisen is an outdoors writer and photographer whose work has appeared in such publications as Adventures NW, Montana Outdoors and Spokane Coeur d’Alene Living. He is currently working on Day Hiking Mt. St. Helens with Craig Romano, to be published

by Mountaineers Books. Aaron lives in Spokane with his wife and 16-month-old son.

A Look Ahead: Our Summer Issue

Behind the Scenes at Ski to Sea

Call Dennis

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Special Section: The Olympic Peninsula

at 360-510-3278 or email dennis@adventuresnw.com

North Cascades Best Summer Hikes

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INSPIRATIONS IN THIS ISSUE

Lessons from the Mud Reflections From Outside the Comfort Zone

Amanda Shearer-Hannah

In the Footsteps of Chief Joseph

Aaron Theisen

Exploring Nez Perce Country

The Adventure Has to Start Somewhere Fit School for Women Cami Ostman Hiking the San Juans Islands Washington’s Alluring Archipelago Craig Romano A Passion for the San Juans High Tide and Calm Waters Lance Ekhart Kayaking the San Juan Islands An Insider’s Guide Shawna Franklin The Making of a Sawyer A Week on Agnes Creek Alyson Indrunas Field Trip: Secret Southwest Off the Beaten Path on the Colorado Plateau John D’Onofrio Current Events The Kayaking Legacy of Reg Lake Ted Rosen

10 14 18 22 26 28 30 34 40

“What we get from this adventure is just sheer joy. And joy is, after all, the end of life. We do not live to eat and make money.”

- George Leigh Mallory

Out & About eARTh: The Art of Nature Cascadia Gear Race | Play | Experience Calendar Advertiser Index Next Adventure

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ADVENTURES nw > FIND Adventures NW is available free at hundreds of locations region-wide: throughout Whatcom, Skagit, San Juan, and Island counties, at select spots in Snohomish, King, and Pierce counties, and in Leavenworth, the Methow Valley, Spokane, and Wenatchee. The magazine is also available at all REI locations in Washington and Oregon as well as at numerous locations in the Vancouver, BC metro area and through races and events and at area visitor centers. > SUBSCRIBE Receive Adventures NW via

mail anywhere in the US or Canada. Visit AdventuresNW.com/subscribe for subscription info.

> ADVERTISE Let Adventures NW magazine help you reach a diverse, receptive audience throughout the Pacific Northwest, and be part of one of the most valued and engaging publications in the region. Info is at AdventuresNW. com/advertise or by writing to dennis @ AdventuresNW.com.

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SPRING | 2013 Volume 8. Issue 1

> EVENTS Have your outdoor-related event, race or

public outing listed in the quarterly Race|Play|Experience calendar and in our comprehensive on-line version. Visit AdventuresNW.com/submit-your-event to post events or contact Dennis @ AdventuresNW.com for details..

> DEADLINES Spring Article queries Dec 1 Ad reservations Jan 20 Final ads & calendar listings Feb 1 Summer Article queries Mar 1 Ad reservations Apr 20 Final ads & calendar listings May 1 Fall Article queries Jun 1 Ad reservations Jul 20; Final ads & calendar listings Aug 1 Winter Article queries Sep 1 Ad reservations Oct 20 Final ads & calendar listings Nov 1

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Go Out and Play!

As winter ebbs and we warm our hands around the prospect of another glorious Cascadian spring, I am (as usual) filled with anticipation for the sweet season ahead. It’s easy to be an optimist in the springtime: the green that just keeps getting greener, the reinvigorated music of the birds, the everlengthening days that invite us to start early and play late.

This issue features a focus on the San Juan Islands, that dreamscape archipelago that inhabits the Salish Sea on the edge of our corner of North America, a place tailor-made for springtime.

The San Juans are a special place and, with luck, may receive additional protection from development this year. In these pages, you’ll learn about some great hikes on the islands by guide book author Craig Romano and discover some of the best places to dip a paddle.

Our center spread also features elegant and compelling images of the islands by Anacortesbased (and world-class) photographer Lance Ekhart.

Also in this issue, Alyson Indrunas shares her experiences as a volunteer on a trail crew along the banks of Agnes Creek in the North Cascades and Aaron Theisen traces the historic footsteps of Chief Joseph and the Nez Perce east of the mountains. Cami Ostman introduces us to Carol Frazey’s “Fit School” and Amanda Shearer-Hannah’s “Lessons from the Mud” offers insight on what we can learn when we move outside our comfort zone.

Ted Rosen’s profile of kayaking legend Reg Lake highlights a quiet hero whose impact on the art and science of kayaking is justifiably renowned among cognoscenti. In our

new “Field Trip” feature, we explore the sensory pleasures of the Colorado Plateau, where red rock and blue skies combine to offer a quite different experience of springtime.

With this issue, we welcome thousands of new readers to the pages of Adventures NW. We’ve expanded our distribution by a third - and we’re thrilled to introduce the magazine for the first time to so many adventurous spirits in British Columbia.

We’re also excited to be printing the magazine on more environmentally friendly paper, sourced from Forest Stewardship Council-certified, sustainable well-managed forests.

Adventures NW exists solely through the support of our community of readers and advertisers. You can show your support by subscribing and having the magazine delivered to your home. Go to AdventuresNW.com/subscribe for info.

We also send out free digital “mini-issues” eight times a year, with unique digital-only content featuring stories and photos by some of the great writers and photographers that grace the pages of the magazine. You can sign up to receive these at our website too. And speaking of our website, be sure to check out our ever-expanding events calendar, which includes hundreds of outdoor events that don’t fit in the magazine.

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Out&About

San Juan Islands National Monument?

The San Juan archipelago is a paraCounties. A National Conservation dise of green islands, set like jewels in the Lands designation - the congressional blue waters of the Salish Sea. That’s the option here - would change the status of good news. Protecting this ecotopia is the lands within the BLM jurisdiction by a job that has for years been entrusted including them in the agency’s National to the Bureau of Land Management Conservation Area (NCA) portfolio, a (BLM). That’s the not-so-good news. sub-set of BLM managed lands that is The BLM’s “multiple use” mandate is exempt from the “multiple use” mandate. increasingly being seen as incompatA National Monument, created ible with the long-term interests of by executive order under the authority preserving this fragile national treasure. granted by the Antiquities Act of 1906, Although the agency has distinguished itself in the San Juans, leaving a strong legacy of conservation, they are limited in their ability to confer lasting protection due to their charter of multiple use.

This could change.

Support for a Conservation Lands designation for the San Juans is strong - and growing.

There are two approaches: Congress can create a National Conservation Island Area; or President Obama, Sucia Photo by John D’Onofrio with a stroke of his pen, can create the San Juans National Monument. Both options are would result in virtually the same protecon the table this year. In either scenario, tions - and is perhaps more feasible, given the BLM would continue to manage the the fractured and dysfunctional situation lands but they would receive more-or-less in congress. permanent protection from development.

Senator Maria Cantwell and What would these federal protecRepresentative Rick Larson have chamtions look like? The BLM manages appioned this cause. Cantwell famously proximately 1,000 acres in the islands declared that she had done everything and whatever happens would apply “but get a tattoo” to show her support only to that relatively small area, mostly for the Conservation Lands designation. in San Juan County but also including Outgoing Secretary of the Interior Ken small amounts in Whatcom and Skagit Salazar included the San Juans on a list of 8

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“crown jewel” federal lands deserving of permanent protection. His likely successor, REI CEO Sally Jewell looks to be a strong advocate for a federal designation.

Support in the islands is strong. Last September, the San Juan County Council voted to endorse the effort. Will protection happen in 2013? Stay tuned.

Climbing For Kids: Bringing the Mojo to Everest Dave Mauro is a regular guy. He’s a family man, a financial planner who lives in Bellingham and moonlights in improv.

In 1993, at the age of 32, he was talked into climbing Mt. Baker.

“I remember sweating a lot, feeling tired, tagging the summit in whiteout conditions and stumbling back down the hill. The next day I retired from mountain climbing. To me this seemed good. I had stood above my kingdom, even If I could not see it, and had nothing more to prove.”

But it turned out that he wasn’t quite finished with mountain climbing. In 2006 he was conscripted by his brother-in-law Ty Hardt, an Anchorage, Alaska climber/TV anchor man/filmmaker to join an attempt on Denali, the highest point in North America. Hardt was planning to film the expedition and Mauro was signed on to provide the perspective of a non-climber.

“Though I had no good reason to believe I could make it to the summit of >>> Go to AdventuresNW.com

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Denali,” he says, “things were at such a low point for me that I doubted failing would bother me much. More importantly, if I could make it to the top, my life might just turn around. As climbing goes, it was both the best and worst reasoning one could imagine.”

On June 13, 2007, Mauro stood on the summit of North America’s highest peak, and in fact, his life did turn around.

Fast-forward to 2013. Since Denali, Mauro has climbed five more of the Seven Summits, the highest points on each continent. The seventh and final one is Mount Everest and he’s heading there in April. The ‘regular guy’, should he make it to the summit of the world’s highest peak, will be one of only 65 Americans to achieve this goal.

But it’s more than personal achievement that motivates Mauro.

He’s collaborated with the Bellingham Boys and Girls Club to initiate “Climbing for Kids”, a fundraising effort to raise much-needed

now

money for the club. By visiting their website, people can “join” his team by making donations to support the club’s work. For as little as $5 you can be a member of “Base Camp Support.”

“I grew up in very limited economic circumstances,” Mauro explains.

“We collected welfare, frequented the Food Bank, wore clothes donated by a church and used Food Stamps at the store. Because of this I feel a special connection with kids who live in similar situations today. Luckily, for many of these kids, they have the Boys & Girls Club in their lives. The Boys & Girls Club provides a safe, healthy place to go after school, where kids can get help with homework, play games, get a hot

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Dave Mauro at the summit of Antartica

meal and build positive relationships with caring mentors. I like to think of it in terms of giving kids permission to dream big.

“I have a big dream of my own.”

Become a part of “Climbing for Kids” at www.whatcomclubs.org. Follow Mauro’s story at AdventuresNW.com.

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Mud Lessons from the

Story by Amanda Shearer-Hannah

A

bout a year ago, a doctor at the University of Washington told me that I had a rare nerve disorder that would take one to three years to recover from.

No working out and constant pain for one to three years. I was relieved that I would eventually get better, but this was still going to be a long, hard period of my life. Trying to fathom life without exercise for three years was enough on its own, let alone being subjected to the temptations and persuasions of competing in a 12-mile footrace flooded with mud and obstacles. I am a classic recovering Type-A personality, trying to learn how to manage my desire to control situations, be the best at everything I do, compete at a high level, and deal with uncertainty and lack of predictability.

I like my Type-A traits. I think that they have brought me a lot of success and happiness. But I have come to realize over the last few years that they also bring me grief and anguish that I might want to live without.

In early March of last year, my physical therapist and friend, Brian Weeda, told me about this great race he was going to do. “A 12 mile obstacle course race. It’s called Tough Mudder. Check it out.” The 12 miles was enough for me to start thinking, “Well, that’s already seven miles too long for any race that I ever want to do.” Then I explored the website, toughmudder.com, and felt even more convinced that the combination of distance and seemingly torturous obstacles along the course (Arctic Enema? Walk the Plank?

Electroshock Therapy? 12-foot Berlin Walls? Really . . . . ?) made this an event that was most definitely not for me.

“Electroshock Therapy”

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Caption with anxiety as I saw the 8-foot “Berlin anticipated for my shoulder. Some injuAt that time, I was a year into a Wall” that we had to climb just to get ries seemingly take forever to heal and lingering shoulder injury. Torn subinto the starting chute. “Really, I can’t the spring-summer “plan” was quickly scapularis tendon in the rotator cuff, even start the race until I get over this and frequently amended due to rib treated with a platelet injection, subvertical wall? I don’t even get to run complications, imbalances and weaksequent frozen shoulder, and brachial first?” As I watched my teammates get nesses within the shoulder complex, plexus nerve complications. I was just up and over, the thought that was racing and tendon inflammation. I continuhappy to be moving again and to start through my head was, “I don’t know if ally doubted that I would be prepared getting a little more function out of my I can do this. How embarrassing is this for Tough Mudder with all these issues. dominant hand, arm, and shoulder. In going to be if I can’t even get late March, the shoulder rehab into the starting chute?” But I was proceeding smoothly and did it; probably not as graceit felt like it was time to start fully as I might have hoped, thinking about a race or event but the first challenge of the for the end of summer. Brian day was met. What I didn’t suggested that I join his team know at that time, was that for Tough Mudder – in his this sequence of doubts, folwords, “It will be a great postlowed by successful navigation rehab training goal.” What he of each crazy obstacle, was to knew at that time was that I be the theme of the day. needed a path, a way to focus All along, Tough Mudder my energy through the highs represented a chance to not and lows that were certain to be only challenge myself physia part of returning to full athThe Tough Mudder team: (L-R) Mark Swiackey, Brian Weeda, Amanda Shearercally, but also to challenge my letic capability. I would prefer Hannah, Robert Hughes, Michael Hughes and Lynette Reilly Type-A limitations. It providto never have setbacks, but he ed an opportunity to get out of knew better. After much conmy comfort zone, out of the predictable, Embracing uncertainty is not a natural vincing, I agreed, and we started tailorand away from workouts and events of strength of mine. But Brian stuck with ing the rehab work toward the demands which I was in control and confident me, and kept reassuring me that I would that Tough Mudder would place on my about. Just training for Tough Mudder be strong enough, tough enough, and body. is a wild exercise – trying to simulate the durable enough for the event. At one Six months later, after a summer of strength and coordination demands in a point, his e-mail response to me was track and field racing that culminated gym setting lead you into some wacky “I’m going to kick your ass – you could in the USA Track and Field Master’s and goofy workout plans. I’m 5’5” tall do tough mudder right now and kick National Meet, I was standing at the and weigh 118 pounds – upper body ass. STOP IT. You are doing it if I have starting line of Tough Mudder, Seattle, strength has never been an attribute of to carry your butt the whole way.” with Brian and five other amazing mine. The length was an issue as well – The excitement that I was feeling on teammates. It was not turning out to preparing for a 3-hour effort compared the morning of our race became tinged be the “post-rehab” goal that we had

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finish line. And in Tough Mudder, you don’t only help your with my 100 and 200 meter track races was a huge challenge. own teammates; you help anyone else in the race that needs The overwhelming reaction from friends and family when I it. Watching the last people from each told them about this race was one of furteam help the first part of the next team rowed brow and “why would you want to Off “the plank” and into the water get up and over the 20-foot half-pipe do that?” Which is exactly why I wanted was inspiring. Helping your own people to do it. is nice; helping anyone that needs it is I knew that I would be far outside my better. comfort zone as I started the race, but I Lesson #2: You don’t have to didn’t know that I would learn profound know what’s around the next corner to lessons during the race. These lessons are be able to meet the challenge and do not earth shattering, nor will the ideas things that you’ve never done before. In be a surprise to anyone. In a sense, they Tough Mudder, you sort of know what are the “duh” type of ideas that we know the obstacles will be. The website does about intellectually, but that sometimes a good job of describing the possible are hard to fully integrate into our lives, obstacles and there are numerous photos our spirits, our souls. and videos from previous races. But you Lesson #1: Teammates are good. don’t really know what’s coming up. As You can’t do Tough Mudder on your you run along a trail, all of a sudden you own. Well, there are a few amazing athhear a big roar from up ahead. And you letes out there who are strong enough, realize that you are about to hit the next tall enough, and coordinated enough to obstacle. In the blink of an eye, you’ve navigate the 20-odd obstacles on their slid down a muddy hillside into a 4-foot own. I’m not one of them. The help deep mud pit and you’re wading across it and looking up at from teammates, whether it was a boost, a push, a pull, a lift, a very steep and very slippery-looking exit from the dark, an encouraging word, was what we all needed to reach the gooey, sticky, stinky mud. And the self-talk that was running through my head in the middle of just about every obstacle was, “I don’t know how to do this. I’ve never done this before.”

But I didn’t have a choice other than to just plow forward. . .

I had to trust my instincts and training and keep going. And a bit to my surprise, I was good. I was strong, I was fast, I was coordinated. And even when I fell off the monkey bars or the rings, I was still okay. Even when I failed, I knew what to do.

Swimming across the cold, muddy water after dropping off the monkey bars was not a moment of great pride, but I got to the other side. There was a way out. All the training that I had done was there for me and I was able to apply it to these crazy new feats. You can do things that you’ve never done before. We have reservoirs of skills, strengths, and experiences that allow us to meet challenges that we’ve never faced.

Lesson #3: You must take leaps of faith. My favorite obstacle was “Everest”, a 20-foot half-pipe (quarter pipe, really).

It was the penultimate obstacle and we’d just come through a creek/bog that was chest-high and sort of gross. We came up to the half-pipe and there were a number of teams in front of us. We ended up waiting about ten minutes, although while you’re watching other people succeed, fail, struggle, slip, slide, etc. it feels like forever. And the entire time, you’re getting colder, tighter, hungrier, more tired, and a little more scared of this huge, slippery wall in front of you. Finally, it was our turn. Our first three people got up without a hitch and Brian 12

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Weeda and Mark Swiackey stayed at the top, ready to help each of us over. You take off at full speed, caked in mud; wet, cold, and tired, and charge up the half-pipe. You run as high as you can, but at some point, you have to take one last step, leap into the air, throwing both arms up . . . . trusting, hoping, praying that your teammate(s) will grab your hands and pull you over. These few seconds were tremendously powerful for me. They represent how I want to live my life: You do everything that you can to prepare, to hit something hard, to give your full effort, but at some point, you have to let go and take that last step. At that point, you trust, you have faith, whatever . . . but you let go of “controlling” your life, your

You do everything that you can to prepare, to hit something hard, to give your full effort, but at some point, you have to let go and take that last step. decisions, your fate. Maybe things work out and “someone” catches you, maybe you fall and go again. But the willingness to take that leap is something we all need to do.

For most Mudders, I think the race is an awesome day of getting dirty, working hard, and enjoying the camaraderie of teammates and fellow Mudders. For me, it was more. It was a way to physically experience the ideas, thoughts, and beliefs that I desire to hold. The lessons I learned in the mud have application and implication for my life and will stay with me as I meet new challenges. Sometimes these challenges will be physical, but probably most of the challenges I will face, as with most of us, are more emotional, mental, and psychological.

Some people meditate, some people pray, and I guess that I do crazy-ass hard physical challenges to learn these lessons.

As my friend Faith said, “It’s so great to go in expecting to do a challenging race and to come out transformed in some way that will impact how you live your life going forward.”

WORK HARD. PLAY HARD. DRIVE ON.

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In the

Footsteps

Chief of

oseph J

Chief Joseph

Courtesy of Washington State University Library

Exploring Nez Perce country Story and photos by Aaron Theisen

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T

he far northeast corner of Oregon, where high plateaus precipitously plunge into narrow creek canyons, is the land of the Nee-Me-Poo, or “Nimi’ipuu” - the Nez Perce people.

History books immortalize the Nez Perce’s 1877 retreat from U.S. Army forces - one of the greatest military maneuvers in U.S. history - that concluded with Chief Joseph’s famous declaration “From where the sun now stands I will fight no more forever.” A 1700-mile trail stretching from Wallowa Lake in northeast Oregon to Bearpaw Battlefield near the Canadian border in Montana commemorates the heart-wrenching flight of the Nez Perce.

stories & the race|play|experience calendar online.

But the story of life before that journey is told by the landscape and the seasonal journeys across their homeland of the Wallowas.

The Nez Perce country is a landscape of superlatives: from Hells Canyon, which - depending on who you ask - may be deeper than the Grand Canyon, to the Wallowa Mountains, sometimes called Oregon’s Alps. Lively, tumultuous rivers braid the arid canyons - three waterways in this area have been designated as Wild & Scenic, the most stringent listing in the federal river-protection program.

For seasonal travel, though, the Nez Perce relied on the various

small creek canyons that flowed into the Snake and Grande Ronde Rivers in southeast Washington. These side canyons provided travel corridors for Nez Perce bands traveling from the Wallowa Valley near Enterprise and Joseph to wintering sites on the Snake and Grand Ronde.

Some families of the Wallowa band made their winter camp at the confluence of the Grande Ronde and what is now called Joseph Creek. Chief Joseph was born in a cave here, above the creek that now bears his name.

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Joseph Creek’s tributaries provided a bounty of big game and fish. Chinook salmon filled these streams on their way to the Grand Ronde. Chief Joseph’s band of the Nez Perce established fall hunting camps to harvest the plentiful mule deer, elk and bighorn sheep that grazed the grassy slopes. Hunting parties would travel to the hills and river valley bottoms where the deer and elk wintered.

Today, far fewer people explore this area in favor of nearby Hells Canyon National Recreation Area.

But adventurers willing to deal with outdated maps, long-abandoned trails and knee-jarring descents will find a world rich in history, wildlife and expansive vistas all to themselves.

For the past several years, several friends and I have attempted to establish a route connecting Hells Canyon in the east with the Grande Ronde River to the northwest, a route that bisects this important Nez Perce travel corridor. We intended to follow Cottonwood Creek, one of Joseph Creek’s main tributaries, until its intersection with Broady Creek, alongside which we would ascend eastward.

At that point we would follow old roads until we encountered the trail that would drop us into Joseph Creek canyon.

We had little information to go on aside from outdated maps that listed nonexistent trails. This may not be the land that time forgot, but government agencies have.

slope, we intersected and lost numerous trails. Human or game? The map was no help. Fortunately such open terrain encouraged cross-country exploration, although the steep slopes and heavy packs put our knees to the test.

The Nez Perce referred to the Joseph Creek area as an-an-a-soc-um, which means “long, rough canyon”.

The appellation fit. A hunter following his quarry down these steep slopes might quickly regret a successful kill.

We dropped into Deadhorse Creek and a muddy trail. The names tell a story - Deadhorse Creek, Wildhorse Ridge. This was horse country.

After the Nez Perce acquired modern horses from the Europeans, they became renowned horse breeders, their majestic mounts seeming to be a different species than the worndown mares that carried the pioneers across the Rockies. The Nez Perce wintered their steeds in this and nearby canyons, alongside cattle whose Cottonwood Creek, a historic progenitors crossed the Oregon Trail. travel corridor of the Nez Perce, flows high with spring run-off.

Weak and starving when the Nez Perce acquired them in the 1840s, these cattle grew in size and numbers The Official Fairhaven Guide, 2013 of the on the nutritious bunchgrasses earnest along the Snake River thousands Joseph Creek The Nez Percead,became of feet below. But on this ridge, Please at almost carefully proof every wordarea. and number in your we will not be successful sellers of cattle and horses to sign t 5000 feet, the sky still threatenednotsnow. caught by the advertiser at this point. If ad is OK to run, please arrived pioneers.

We post-holed through late-lingering to Taimi Gormannewly (Gorman Publicity).

We reached a on trail junction onprinters a and snow drifts and past old, but still used, Colors and resolution will look differently different desktop bench above spring-swollen Cottonwood sheep camps. To the east lay Bear Ridge; The final book will be high-resolution 4-color printing on coated stock.

Creek. Like Joseph Creek, Cottonwood to the north, Wildhorse Ridge.

Ad placement within sections is as alphabetical as possible at our discretion Creek was a well-worn Nez Perce travel Descending the bunchgrass-covered We began our backpacking trip on the broad, flat ponderosa pine-lined Cold Spring Ridge. From the ridge, we could peer east to the far side of Hells Canyon.

It was mid-April, and spring had begun in

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A hiker travels cross-country above Broady Creek on the Nez Perce sacred tribal lands.

route to wintering sites to the north and still attracts anglers for its Snake River steelhead. The open canyon, its grassy sides punctuated only by fire-scarred snags, resembled Hells Canyon in miniature.

Here the trail became more pronounced. As it gradually descended from grassy benchland to ponderosa bottomlands, we saw our first evidence of other humans: chainsaw-carved initials, dated ’10, in the trunk of a ponderosa snag.

The federal stimulus package had reached even this remote canyon.

We camped near the creek in the first flat spot we could find, beneath massive ponderosa pines and hemmed in by steep basalt walls.

Early the next morning, I picked my way among still-dormant shrubs and giant moss-pocked boulders to watch the sunrise illuminate the Wallowas, the historic heart of Nez Perce lands, to the south. Snow would be reflecting sunrises in the Wallowas for months to come, but here spring introduced itself with flowering shooting stars, balsamroot and the pungent desert parsley.

After breakfast, we left camp and continued north along Cottonwood Creek, now on an old roadbed of wornsmooth cobbles. The seasons accelerated as we hiked, the first buds of purple lupine illuminating the grassy slopes.

A broad flat expanse at the base of a bluff showed the remains of an old pioneer orchard, its apple trees long having given up their last fruit. Eagles wheeled overhead among the red-tinted rocks.

Stopping for water, Derrick, who had earlier expressed confidence that he would find an Indian artifact, picked up an obsidian spear point from the roadbed as if out of a hat. After admiring the spear point and Derrick’s luck, we returned the spear point to its resting place.

We crossed a small creek, and then in quick succession, the Forest boundary onto Nez Perce tribal lands. The tribe now owns over fifteen-thousand acres of the Joseph Creek area, managed as stories & the race|play|experience calendar online.

Immediately after picking up the trail the Nez Perce Precious Lands Wildlife up Broady Creek, pink flagging began Management Area. The area is open to to replace actual tread. Rather than get hiking, and tribal employees have even trapped down in the streamside shrubs re-opened some historic trails. and brush, we scrambled crumbly basalt Today, mule deer and elk proliferate, bedrock onto the slopes above. The canwith almost a thousand head of elk roamyon began to narrow, and so did our oping the grassland and streamside riparian tions. Low, thick underbrush entangled areas. our feet; above, thunderclouds began We entered a broad clearing. The weighing their own options. We turned day, early spring-like in its morning chill, back. Joseph Creek would have to wait had become downright warm in the sun. for another year.

Turkeys strutted in front of us, and then, Even three days in the backcountry thinking better of it, high-tailed it into can reset one’s tolerance for the thrum of the wild roses and snowberry. modern life. The next day, after climbIn the clearing slumped an old cabin, ing back up to winter and then driving its cast-iron stove dragged out into the back out to spring on the Snake River, grass. European homesteaders ran cattle we encountered crowds congregated on here, and sometimes sheep. The homethe Snake to watch jet boats race by. It steaders were long gone; the livestock, was a dramatic change from the rhythtoo, in the interest of big-game habitat mic movements of horse-mounted ridrehabilitation. ers traveling to and from their winter Shortly after, we crossed an old homes. But here, deep in the canyons bridge - evidently salvaged from a rail-line of Nez Perce country there still remain - over Broady Creek. Taking our lunch places where that pace can be relived. here, we weighed our options. It was early afternoon. We’d covered perhaps Real Estate & Adventures around Bellingham, WA, U.S.A. ... seven miles, with that many more awaiting us on our return. The tread here looked good, though, so we figured we’d give ourselves an hour or two NWWayofLife.com before heading back. race | play | experience

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The Adventure has to Start Somewhere Fit School for Women There are several different kinds of adventure seekers in this world.

First, there are those who were seemingly born with a drive to take chances Story and photos by Cami Ostman

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- to jump over, leap out of, and climb up things. And then there are those who spend years convincing themselves to try something risky and exciting. Meet Nancy Durant of Bellingham, WA, who started off as one kind and, after suffering an injury, became the other. For a while.

One day last year Nancy stood at the edge of the track at Fairhaven Middle School and sized up the other women - ten or so of them, looking younger and fitter than she’d been in years. Fifty pounds ago, she might not have been so frightened, but things were different now. Nancy had been an athlete earlier in her life, but a pinched nerve in her neck had put her on the sofa and gave her the excuse she needed to stay there for much too long.

When she turned 50, she decided she needed to make a change, but wasn’t sure how to do it

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until her partner, Pam, met Carol Frazey, director and founder of the Fit School for Women, at a workshop. Nancy didn’t like running but knew she couldn’t go back to volleyball or basketball just yet; she’d have to try something new to build up her stamina. She signed up for Carol’s allwomen class even though she was scared to death. “I almost threw up I was so worried about how far behind everyone else I would be,” Nancy confessed, explaining how she felt that day she showed up for her first workout.

But Nancy was only afraid until she met Carol, who pointed out that training isn’t about competing with each other; it is about improving and meeting your own goals. That day, Nancy ran/walked a 13:07 mile trial. One year later,

she clocks in at 10:41 for the one-mile and can sustain a run for three miles without walking. Plus, she’s lost 50 pounds!

So what do you do if you are someone who has avoided summer hiking and Thanksgiving Day touch football games much of your life but who has an adventure on your bucket list that will require some physical stamina? Well, the adventure has to start somewhere, right? It has to start with gaining the confidence that you can actually DO what you dream of doing, be it walking a 5K or running an ultramarathon. And how do you build that confidence? Something like Carol Frazey’s Fit School for Women Walking and Running Program can provide the support and accountability needed for adventurers trying to get in (or back in) the proverbial saddle. Every Monday and Wednesday, morning and evening, Carol guides groups of women through a go-atyour-own pace workout that boosts confidence as much as fitness and running proficiency.

Carol fosters a supportive environment among runners of all abilities and experience levels with her one golden rule: “You may not say anything negative while you’re on this track!” Just try to say that you can’t improve your time or that you’ve never been athletic or that you hate push-ups and you’ll get a quick reprimand and then Carol will insist you say three positive things about yourself to make up for your lapse in self-assurance.

She knows what she’s talking about.

A competitive runner herself (she ran for Penn State back in college), Carol runs now as much for the fitness benefits as for the way running teaches mental endurance and builds self-esteem. “Running,” she’ll tell you, “can save your life and give you community, too, if you let it.”

But lest you think Carol is coaching only beginners to break through their barriers, think again. Side by side with women like Nancy, who needed to jump start their confidence, are women running competitively in their age groups -

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Kelli Gauthier: “Carol’s group gives me the accountability I need.”

and all the rest of us in between.

Meet Kelli Gauthier, for example.

She’s a risk-taker by nature, starting in the third grade when she joined her first soccer team. Then, last year when she turned 40, she set a goal to complete a bike or running race in 40 US States, with

the hope of taking her family along to at least 15 of those. She called it the 40-15-40 Challenge. So what can Kelli get out of a program like Carol’s Fit School Running and Walking Program?

“Ever since she started her Fit School I have wanted to be a part of it,” Kelly says, “because I admire Carol as an athlete.

And I have been running for years but speed and interval work are not my favorite. I know I need to do it because it makes me a better runner and makes my body happier. Carol’s group gives me the accountability I need, mixed with her knowledge of exercise and the body. I feel like her encouraging nature is just an

added benefit of her group! She does such a good job meeting everybody’s needs in that hour of exercise and I appreciate that everybody can come at any level and walk away feeling like they have just worked their body to a better place. I don’t know where my next adventure will take me, but I feel confident I will be ready for it with the base training that Carol’s program offers.”

Carol coaxes the Inner Adventurer out of each woman with a routine that allows for everyone to improve. The key is measurable markers of success and improvement. She starts every new round of sessions with a mile trial to get a sense of each woman’s base.

For each workout, a ten minute warm-up walking around the track is followed by 25 minutes of interval and speed work, followed by a cool-down, drills, three minutes of core and upper body work and stretching. It’s a simple formula but everyone sees improvement.

How does this writer know? I ran my fast-

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Post-workout stretching

est mile ever at the end of one of Carol’s programs.

Who says the spirit of adventure is restricted to those who naturally like to throw their bodies into harm’s way for an adrenaline rush (although that’s mighty exciting)? For some, that’s just

the ticket, while for others the rush is finding out you can finish a mile and still keep going.

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21

Hiking the San Juan Islands Awesome Trails Abound in Washington’s Alluring Archipelago Story by Craig Romano

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addlers, sailors, boaters and cyclists don’t get to have all the fun on the San Juan Islands! There are plenty of prime places for hikers to explore on this charming and scenic archipelago within the Salish Sea. The islands are littered with state, county and federal parks and preserves traversed by miles of excellent family friendly trails. There are scores of private land trust preserves too - open to the public and to hiking.

Spring is one of the best times to hike the islands. Ferry waits are often minimal, campgrounds frequently empty, lodges and bed-and-breakfasts often discounted, and the weather thanks to the Olympic rain-shadow - is often mild and sunny!

Orcas Island

Point Colville on Lopez Island

The epicenter of hiking in the San Juans is Orcas Island, the largest island in the archipelago. Orcas also boasts the islands’ highest summit and some of the San Juans’ largest tracts of public land. There’s no better place to begin your San Juan hiking adventures than at Orcas’ Moran State Park. Consisting of over 5,200 acres and more than 30 miles of trails and old fire roads, this Civilian Conservation Corp (CCC) developed park contains hundreds of acres of old-growth forest, several lakes and waterfalls, as well as Mount Constitution, the highest

Photo by Craig Romano

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summit in the San Juans.

From Mountain Lake Landing in the heart of the park take your choice of some classic loops. Set out on an easy, almost level 3.9 mile journey around Mountain Lake, one of the largest bodies of freshwater within the San Juans. Because the lake is free from outboard motors, you can enjoy placid waters that reflect old-growth giants. Scout those trees for bald eagles and savor impressive views of Mount Constitution’s sheer and stony eastern face looming above the lake.

If 2,409-foot Mount Constitution is calling you from below, consider an invigorating 7.1 mile loop from Mountain Lake Landing to this peak and back.

Hike up to Little Summit first to take in sweeping views south of Cypress, Fidalgo, Blakely and Lopez Islands. Then enjoy a ridge running route through windblown pine groves and along precipitous cliff tops. Climb the steps of the unique stone tower, a facsimile of a 12th century Caucasus Mountain military fortification. It was constructed in 1936 from locally-quarried sandstone by CCC crews stationed in the park. Here, from the rooftop of the San Juans, enjoy an unobstructed view of islands, mountains, sound, and straits. Pick out Mount Baker and British Columbia’s Golden Ears and Patos, Sucia, Matia, Clark, Barnes Lummi, Vendovi, Cypress - the list of islands goes on! Finish your loop with a knee-knocking descent to the Twin Lakes and then an easy hike back to Mountain Lake through primeval forest.

Interested in sampling Orcas Island’s other grand hiking destination? To the west of Moran, on the opposite side of East Sound, is the 1,578-acre Turtleback Mountain Preserve. Established less than a decade ago, it was one of the greatest conservation success stories on the islands, when citizens rallied to protect it from development. Managed by the San Juan County Land Bank and San Juan Preservation Trust, the sprawling preserve has a growing network of trails.

Start with a three mile loop hike up Ship stories & the race|play|experience calendar online.

Mount Constitution, Orcas Island Photo by Craig Romano

Peak via a winding old road across open shrubby slopes reminiscent of a southern Appalachian Mountains bald. In spring, wildflowers paint these slopes in a multitude of colors. Pass by big madrona trees and Garry Oaks en route to the 930-foot summit of Ship Peak. Now enjoy a boatload of views from Canada’s Gulf Islands

and Vancouver Island to Orcas’ East Sound, West Sound, and lofty Mount Constitution rising over the rolling pastures of the Crow Valley.

San Juan Island On San Juan Island, the most populated in the chain, several excellent

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Springtime in the San Juans Photo by John D’Onofrio

(and easier) hiking destinations await your boots. Start at the San Juan Island National Historical Park. If the US and Britain hadn’t come to the brink of war in 1859, we wouldn’t have been left with

this park and the longest stretch of public beach in the San Juan Islands. Established to commemorate the “Pig War” (a confrontation over possession of the Oregon Country in which the only casualty was

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a Hudson’s Bay Company hog), this 1,750-acre park is divided into two sections: American Camp and English Camp. Along with its historic importance, the park protects some stunning habitat, including one of the few native grasslands remaining along the Strait of Juan de Fuca.

One of my favorite hikes on San Juan is a 3.5 mile loop up 290-foot Mount Finlayson and back along Jakle’s Lagoon. Follow the trail across golden grasslands lined with windblown, contorted firs and feast on sweeping maritime views. From this coastal hill’s open summit take in spectacular views of the Strait of Juan de Fuca and a backdrop of snowcapped Olympic Mountains. Then head down into a cool ravine following another old road back to the trailhead.

Be sure to do some coastal exploring at Jakle’s Lagoon for nice views of Mount Constitution and Turtleback Mountain across Griffin Bay. At San Juan Island National Historic Park’s English Camp unit on the north end of the island, you’ll find another small peak with big views to hike, 650-foot Young Hill. It’s only two miles roundtrip to this open little summit. Hike past the old English Camp Cemetery shaded by venerable oaks before heading to the grassy summit ledges. Then enjoy the view over finger coves and narrow straits to Victoria and the Gulf Islands. There are also good views of San Juan Island’s highest peak, Mount Dallas and out to the Olympics. If you’re looking for an all day romp, continue down the backside of Young Hill to the Roche Harbor Highlands tract. The hike here around Briggs Lake with its eagles and stately trees is a worthwhile destination.

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destinations as well. In particular, Lopez offers some of the finest shoreline hikes within the archipelago. On the island’s extreme south end are two properties, Point Colville and Iceberg Point, managed by the Bureau of Land Management that were once considered for lighthouses and are now being considered for National Conservation Area status (see page 8).

While it’s only one mile around Point Colville, plan on spending several delightful hours at this spectacular promontory.

The trail weaves through exceptional oldgrowth forest - including a grove of Sitka spruce - on its way to a series of coastal cliffs. Just offshore is blocky Castle Island and rocky Colville Island, both teeming with colonies of sea birds including tufted puffins. Enjoy sweeping views across Rosario Strait to Burrows Island, Mount Baker and Fidalgo Island’s iconic Mount Eire.

Even more spectacular is Iceberg Point. From Agate Beach, it’s a little over a mile via private road (open to the public

but do not trespass on adjacent lands) to this small peninsula. The views across the sparkling waters of the Strait of Juan de Fuca to the snowy Olympics are breathtaking. But what makes this spot even more beautiful is its native prairie. Hike these grassy bluffs in spring time and be dazzled by an assortment of brilliant flowers - some rare - including a yellow population of chocolate lilies. There are also prickly pear cactus growing in the grasses and old-growth junipers on the prairie’s edge, a testament to the San Juan’s rain-shadow.

And icebergs? It’s a long way from the North Atlantic, so you probably won’t see any icebergs here. The point was named in 1854 by George Davidson, of the U.S. Coast Survey, for the copious striations left in the ledges by Ice Age glaciers. Check out the coastal cliffs and ledges and see those striations etched in various patterns. Be sure to hike up to the 135-foot high rocky knoll sporting a large white boundary reference monu-

ment for a mesmerizing view of Iceberg’s rocky coastline. Scan the entire striated shoreline and notice the glacial erratics littering the terraced ledges. Notice the birds hovering over the swaying grasses raptors and eagles are prolific here.

While I hope that I have whetted your appetite to explore the San Juans by foot, I have only touched upon a few of the chain’s trails and special places.

And I have only concentrated on three of the main islands, all serviced by state ferries. If you have your own boat or you arrange for a water taxi, you can get to even more great hiking destinations on the outer and lightly settled islands.

Cypress Island contains miles of trails to secluded beaches, small ponds and rocky knobs with stunning views. Sucia, Patos, Matia and Vendovi Islands harbor outstanding wildlife populations and oldgrowth forests, and appear much as they did before a handful of Spanish captains in the late 1700’s started giving names to these magnificent islands.

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25

Lance Ekhart: A Passion for the San Juan Islands I’ve been poking around the San Juan Islands with my sailboat for 12 years and I keep coming back to three little islands in the group: Matia, Sucia and Patos.

Their fantastic sandstone formations perched above narrow and precipitous ledges compel me to find a way to access them, often a risky endeavor by dinghy, rewarding me only at the confluence of high tide, calm waters and a glorious “golden hour”.

The enticement frequently leads to frustration, though, as the few mooring buoys on Matia and Patos are usually taken in the summer months, encouraging me to discover the peaceful seclusion of being alone there in the off season.

Check out Lance Ekhart’s photography at lekhartimages.com

See more of Lance Ekhart’s images in his gallery of the San Juans at AdventuresNW.com

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Clockwise from top left; Moonlight over Matia, Otter Family on Sucia, Sublime Sunset on Matia, Sandstone Maelstrom, Madrone Detail, Eventide: Day’s End on Patos

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Kayaking the San Juan Islands An Insider’s Guide Photo by Gene Davis

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he San Juans are justifiably renowned for their awesome kayaking. With something like 170 islands in the archipelago (depending on what you consider to be an island versus a rock sticking out of the water), the intrepid paddler could easily spend a lifetime exploring all of the options.

We asked Shawna Franklin & Leon Somme, owners of Body Boat Blade International in Eastsound on Orcas Island to share some of the best spots to dip a paddle in the islands. Body Boat Blade is famous among kayakers as the source for instruction, tours and gear in the islands. They’ve divided these prime paddles into three groups, using skiing terminology to indicate the necessary skill level to safely navigate the route.

• GREEN is for beginners/novice no rolling, need to stay away from currents and out of wind, stay close to shore, etc. The “Green” trips are divided between guided and nonguided options.

• BLUE is for intermediate skill level - can read current tables, get weather and be able to do rescues, etc.

• BLACK diamond is for advanced/ experienced kayakers - solid rescues, 28

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comfortable in currents/wind, can navigate etc.

GREEN GUIDED 1. Paddle with the whales on the west side of San Juan Island from Small Pox Bay to the Lime Kiln lighthouse.

2. Do an overnight trip to Sucia Island from North Beach on Orcas Island.

GREEN NON-GUIDED 1.

Paddle the west side of Eastsound on Orcas Island, leaving from the County Park in town.

2. Paddle Westsound into Massacre Bay along the shoreline, leaving from the public dock in Westsound.

BLUE 1. Paddle through the Wasp Islands from Deer Harbor on Orcas to Jones Island.

2. Paddle the south coast of Lopez island from Agate Beach.

3. Whale watch - paddle from Small Pox Bay to Lime Kiln State Park.

BLACK DIAMOND 1. North Beach on Orcas Island to Sucia - paddling through Little Sucia along the elegant sandstone

cliffs of Sucia and then out to Patos - be sure to hike to the lighthouse on Patos.

2. Stuart Island - leave from Roche Harbor on San Juan Island or from Deer Harbor on Orcas Island - be sure to hike to the Turn Point lighthouse and watch for whales!

Body Boat Blade can be reached at 360.376.5388. Visit their website at www.bodyboatblade.com.

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The Making of a Sawyer A Week on Agnes Creek

Story by Alyson Indrunas Photos by Greg Friend

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inter wrecks havoc on the trails of the North Cascades. The snow flies, the wind roars and trees fall. Each year as soon as the snow melts, trail crews head out to pick up the pieces. Curious about the experience, I signed up for a volunteer trail crew program entitled: “Calling All Loggers.”

At the time, I thought the Washington Trails Association (WTA) was being cheeky with its description. When Gary, the crew leader, sent me an email about the trip, it sounded like I needed some logging experience and perhaps logger suspenders to hold up my pants. Using a saw, much less one that was almost as tall as me, was not exactly in my repertoire of skills. I panicked. I wrote a freaked-out email to Gary expressing my concerns. He responded, “Great! Don’t worry, you’ll be a sawyer by the end of this trip.”

Day 1: Lake Chelan, Field’s Point Landing At 4:45 a.m., I left Bellingham to catch a 9 a.m. ferry at Lake Chelan. I located my team - the hard hats and backpacks made it easy - at the dock. Once we were on the ferry, I started to relax as an easy-going Gary gave us a handout detailing the 30

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Putting the finishing touches on a bridge railing, Swamp Creek

log-out agenda. He explained the WTA’s objectives on this trip and gave us complimentary ferry ride tickets courtesy of the U.S. Forest Service.

When we arrived in Stehekin, the water looked high and fierce, and the sky looked especially gray through the thick canopy of trees. Weather-wise, it felt the same as it had for weeks in Bellingham. June in the Pacific Northwest: a wet battle between spring and summer wherein summer often loses. Rain was imminent.

One of my goals for this trip was to write a lot, but the first day’s writing was not promising. By the time I was in my tent, all I wanted to do was sleep. My first fleeting journal entry now sounds like failed haiku: “Saw a black bear in

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added a gloss to bright orange tiger lillies, deep green salal and delicate fairy slippers growing on nurse logs. Among the fallen trees, the forest was coming alive after the winter’s snowfall. Our crew split into teams to clear fallen logs or trim back brush. From early morning to late afternoon, we hiked to an area that needed work, leap-frogging over one another’s work sites. My team’s first job was to clear a tangled mess of blow-downs. Under a mass of branches and bark, two fallen trees hid the trail. I listened to my more experienced crewmembers discussing the plan of action. My sawyer training began in earnest.

Chainsaws are prohibited in Wilderness areas. Our human-powered saw joined the chorus of chirping birds and falling rain. The glide of the saw requires a fluid movement of pulling and releasing. Sawyers appear to work by pushing and pulling, but they actually work together with a graceful pull and release. Biceps burn. Curled shavings of wood fall. The sweet smell of cedar fills the air.

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somebody’s backyard, thought it was a big dog. Sawed my first log - so much fun - being on the trail. I love this. Ate too many cherries. So tired.”

Day 2: High Bridge Camp to Five Mile Camp At 6 a.m. I wrote in my tent while drinking a steaming cup of coffee. Despite the steady rain, I was warm and excited about the day’s activities. After breakfast, we hiked to Five Mile Camp. The rain stories & the race|play|experience calendar online.

From Five Mile, we hiked to Swamp Creek. A mile up the trail, a railing was down on a bridge and the repair was one of the main objectives of this log-out. When it came to backcountry construction, my crew shared a common work ethic: our railing was going to look professional. I was an eager student, and thankfully, my crew members were happy to share their knowledge. Sawyers, I found, have some great phrases! For instance, when you get to a cut site, always look up to avoid cutting a “widow maker.” If you got too tired, you’ll be “spelled” as in, “I’m tired, I need to rest a spell.” What is the best way to make a sawyer your enemy? Let her saw hit the dirt (it dulls the teeth).

Day 4: Hemlock Camp As we hiked to Hemlock Camp, patches of snow appeared along the

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trail. The rain let up and the scent of the landscape changed. A cool breeze blew from the river. At camp, there was no shortage of downed branches for the fire pit.

A handmade sign read “Hemlock Camp: Vacancy.”

We cleared four blow-downs, including one tree that blocked access to the privy. Gary gave us our final assignment: hike until we hit too much snow and mark the last log. Using an axe, we were to make a V-shaped mark that to a trained sawyer’s eye communicates: “We stopped here.” Later in the summer, another crew would hike from the other direction and stop when they saw that mark.

With our final objective met, the four of us made a fire and shared stories over dinner about why we had volunteered. Most stories included a desire to give something back.

The physicality of trail work is satisfying. For me, this work - hard labor in

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Day 5: Blow-Down Free Hike Out After my ritual of coffee and writing, it was time to break camp and hike out. I was reluctant to leave the backcountry, but the promise of a crunchy salad in the Stehekin restaurant motivated me.

Hiking out meant a thirteen-mile day, blissfully free of blow-downs.

We caught a ride from High Bridge, and stopped at the Stehekin Pastry Company for ice cream and cinnamon rolls. The log cabin is a hub of activity for recreating tourists. The driver took us to the ranger station, and the rangers set us up in the overflow campground above Purple Point. As I blew up my air mattress, I watched wispy A morning’s work: Alyson’s transformation to a sawyer is complete. clouds curl over the peaks along the lakeshore. A seaplane landed on the smooth water. the woods - is just the right counterbalStehekin is an outlet for Pacific ance to my life off the trail. As our fire Crest Trail thru-hikers, and I identified became more coals than embers, we with the excitement those long distance called it a night and retired to our tents.

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hikers must experience with this little town. A hot shower for five-minutes per quarter is money well spent. After a two-quarter shower, we had dinner at the restaurant. Like all meals after you’ve been living out of your backpack, it was spectacular.

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Day 6: Ferry Ride to Field’s Point I watched the mountains roll by on the languid ferry ride back to our cars, contemplating what I had learned on my first backpacking trip of the season.

Despite the rain, the hard work, and the sometimes-frustrating exhaustion that goes with wanting to be able to do more than your body can handle, I felt content with the week. Sawing is rewarding trail work. I didn’t believe Gary when he told me I’d be a sawyer by the end of the week, but he was right. When the WTA puts out a call for loggers, I’m there!

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Field Trip

Secret Southwest Off the Beaten Path on the Colorado Plateau Story and photos by John D’Onofrio

E

ach year in the spring, I have made it a longstanding habit to send myself on vacation down to the Southwest. Specifically, the Colorado Plateau country of southern Utah, northern Arizona - and occasionally - northwestern New Mexico and eastern Nevada. The red and purple landscapes of these dreamlands are as different from the lush bluegreen of the northwest as can be imagined. Viva la difference!

Little Finland

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In the thirty-plus years that I’ve been exploring this region I’ve discovered many very special places. Some are wellknown and need no elaboration here: the Grand Canyon, Bryce Canyon, Arches National Park. Others are less famous - but no less amazing. Still others are way off the beaten path. Discoveries waiting to happen. Powerful medicine.

Paria Canyon/Buckskin Gulch The hike up Paria Canyon to the confluence of Buckskin Gulch is a world classic; one of the planet’s premier canyon treks. If you can manage it, haul a backpack in here for the peak experience of spending a few days exploring this magical canyon system. Start at the White House trailhead off of Utah Highway 89, about midway between Kanab, Utah and Page, Arizona. You’ll probably be walking in the (usually) very shallow Paria River as you head south.

The canyon walls grow around you as you go, eventually soaring more than 800 feet above the canyon floor, creating a cathedral-like ambience.

At 7.3 miles, reach the confluence with Buckskin Gulch, the longest, deepest slot canyon in the world. Wonderful camps can be found just up Buckskin - they make a supreme base camp for exploring the Gulch, where the serpentine canyon walls are often only a few feet apart. There are a few places in Buckskin where you might need to do a

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little scrambling over (or under) obstacles and sometimes there are pools of black, fetid water to wade, but such inconveniences are quickly forgotten amid so much transcendent beauty. Supernarrow sections alternate with golden amphitheatres filled with radiant light, and the canyon walls are like a gallery of abstract stone art. If you’re inclined toward photography, mid-day is best with lots of warm reflected light bouncing off the red walls.

Continue down the Paria if time allows. Although the canyon is more open, vast alcoves - painted with desert varnish - make ideal campsites and the silence grows deeper. You may find yourself whispering.

Permits for overnight travel in Paria and Buckskin are in great demand, so you’ll have to plan your expedition well in advance. As in any slot canyon, it is imperative to know the weather forecast before you head in - the danger of flash flooding is very real.

Learn more: http://www.blm.gov/az/st/en/arolrsmain/paria. html.

Yellow Rock

Exploring Paria Canyon near the confluence with Buckskin Gulch

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A visit to Yellow Rock is like a trip to another planet. It truly is yellow, but as rocks go, it’s more like a mountain. You can easily spend an afternoon exploring its slopes. The surface of the rock is streaked and textured with wild patterns and bands of color. The hike in is short - only a mile and a half and easy, except for a short, steep ascent up a loose cliff face.

Go in the afternoon, when the light inflames the rock. Then high-tail it out in twilight.

Access is from the Cottonwood Canyon Road, a fairly major, albeit dirt road that connects Utah 89 with Utah 12. The road itself is a scenic delight and countless wonderful primitive camp spots (the best Between Milepost 20 - 21 kind) can be found along the way. Like Mt. Baker Hwy., Deming Ph 360/599-BEER (2337) most everywhere else in canyon country, www.northforkbrewery.com there’s no water, so be sure to bring your own.

More info: http://www.zionnationalpark.com/staircase-yellow-rock.htm

The Subway Zion National Park is, of course, on the short list of premier destinations in the southwest. The park’s focal point, Zion Canyon, is always crowded with tourists and pilgrims - and with good reason. But on the west side of the park, far from the camera-clutching throngs, there is a hiking destination that offers a very different experience. The Subway is a landscape from a dream, a sensuously carved slot through

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which North Creek cascades down a series of sculpted stone ledges in what has to be one of the most sublime scenes on the Colorado Plateau. The Subway itself is small - and the hike in is laborious (4 rugged miles each way), but when you finally reach it, you’ll find it difficult to leave. Permits are required and in short supply.

Learn more here: http://www.nps. gov/zion/planyourvisit/subwaypermits. htm

Cathedral Valley

Bisti Badlands

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to find some of the amazing locations spread out among the badlands. Don’t miss the Egg Factory, which resembles the landscaping of Salvador Dali. This is an excellent place to be at the end of the day when the rich golden light illuminates the “eggs”. You’ll have to find your way back through this trail-less country in the dark but most of the way will be in a fairly defined wash. Again, the GPS might come in handy.

Learn more: http://www.blm.gov/ nm/st/en/prog/wilderness/bisti.html

In the extreme northwestern corner of New Mexico, Bisti Badlands is a vast and desolate landscape, starkly beautiful and, in my experience, nearly empty of visitors This is as low-key as it gets; no Little Finland permits, no trails, no people.

Access is via a good dirt road (#7297) Want to get off the beaten path? off New Mexico Hwy. 371 and there are You can’t do much better than Little splendid spots for informal camping Finland. Located in the far eastern out(no water, no nothing) near the gate in back of Nevada, near the Arizona Strip, a fence that signals the entrance to the Little Finland was named for the riotous main part of the badlands. It is of course sandstone “fins” that create a hobgoblin’s important to practice impeccable wilparadise in this little-known and rarelyderness ethics in a place like this. These visited corner of the desert. You will kind of “on your own” experiences have definitely want a high-clearance 4WD become hard to come by and they must vehicle - access is via miles of obscure be respected by those that benefit from them (this means you).

Bisti is a good place to The Fine Art Photography of Joe Jowdy have a GPS. There are several websites that post GPS data, and without it, you’ll be fairly hard-pressed

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A road trip into land so empty and remote, it feels like backpacking in your vehicle. And hopefully, your vehicle has high clearance (and maybe four wheel drive). Cathedral Valley is a unique undertaking. Located in Utah’s South Desert (within Capitol Reef National Park), this landscape possesses some of the same powerful visual wallop as Monument Valley - with one difference.

There’s no one here.

The loop road starts with a ford of the Virgin River and then transports you through 59 miles of dramatic canyon scenery. The names are iconic: The Temple of the Sun and the Temple of the Moon. Gypsum Sinkhole. Glass Mountain. Lots of places to pull over and explore on foot for the inquisitive (and well prepared) traveler. Out in the middle of nowhere there’s a very lonely campground. Spending a night provides an opportunity to experience the magic of sunset and sunrise. Before heading

out, you will want to stop at the Capitol Reef Visitor Center, 12 miles west on highway 24, to inquire about the condition of the road and the depth of the ford.

More info here: http://www.nps.gov/ care/planyourvisit/cathedralvalley.htm

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and often sandy jeep tracks. You’ll also want a good map - there are no signs back here. The jeep track will take you to the base of a long cliff, an excellent camping spot (obviously no facilities or water). From there, find your way up the cliff. Once on top, wander to your heart’s content among the fanciful rock formations.

In f o r m a t i o n about Little Finland is hard to come Getting to “the wave” requires persistence by, but start here: http://theamericanwestphotography. com/LocationInformation/Little-Finland-Information/ Little-Finland-Information.html

The Wave You may not know this place by name but chances are you’ve seen pictures of it. This pocket of swirling sandstone is like something out of a Carlos Castaneda experience, if you know what I mean. The Wave is world-famous among landscape photographers who flock here from the ends of the Earth. There is no trail per se, but the three mile hike in is straightforward enough (and knock-your-socks-off beautiful). Although the “Wave” itself is relatively small, it is surrounded by

multi-colored slickrock wonderlands that challenge the imagination and stir

the soul. Access is from the Wire Pass Trailhead at Buckskin Gulch, within the North Coyote Buttes (BLM). Permits are awarded by lottery - good luck with that!

Persistence is everything.

Learn more: http://www.blm. gov/az/st/en/arolrsmain/paria/coyote_ buttes/permits.html

Wahweap Hoodoos

Here is a place that will make you believe in ghosts. Surreal towers of chalky Entrada Sandstone cluster together beneath crumbling cliffs like phantom choirs. Each pedestal is topped with a dark capstone, most perched at a jaunty angle, like a graduation cap on an alien.

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here, but the road that leads to the northern access point has recently been closed by the BLM, so the only way in is from the south, hiking about four miles up Wahweap Wash.

A good strategy is to camp at the trailhead (no facilities of course), get up before dawn and hike into the hoodoos in the dark. The best ones are clustered beneath the cliffs on the west side of the canyon, so they catch the early light. Sunrise in this bizarre and beautiful place is revelatory.

Info at: www.zionnational-park. com/hoodoos.htm

Considerations The Colorado Plateau is - obviously - desert. Sometimes very hot. Sometimes bitterly cold. But almost always bone dry. Water is the name of the game in this part of the country; make sure that you carry plenty of it. More than you think you’ll need.

Some of the places that I’ve mentioned are way off the beaten path. You’ll absolutely need good maps and sometimes a compass or GPS. Rain - though infrequent - can make even well-maintained dirt roads impassible, even to jeeps.

And there are some fairly venomous critters that call this country home; rattlesnakes, scorpions, etc. Exercise caution. Common sense will make encounters highly unlikely.

Many of the roads that provide access to these locations are rough, sandy and desolate. If you get stuck, you might be there awhile. Good thing you brought that extra water. >>> Go to AdventuresNW.com

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eARTh The art of nature Paintings by Ron Pattern I think a painter needs to have a child-like curiosity and awareness of the visual world we inhabit in order to capture the fleeting glimpses and dramatic moments in time. I go out into my daily environment and am entranced by the drama of light and shadow, the tension of texture, line and form.

I am currently painting primarily acrylic on canvas - I find the medium lends itself well to big, bold realistic landscape interpretations. I have always felt compelled to explore my life with pigment and brush, a way for me to make sense of my emotional attachment to my environment.

Top: South End Left: Log Jam View more of Ron Pattern’s nature-inspired paintings at www.patternart.net

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Current Events: The Kayaking Legacy of Reg Lake Story by Ted Rosen

T

here are two sports worlds. There is the world of mainstream sports, with its glamorous superstars, enormous budgets and massive marketing machines. Then there’s the world of passion sports, with its underdog heroes, relative poverty and niche marketing efforts. Everyone knows the mainstream sports legends. But in the passion sports, our heroes are legends in the true sense of the word. Stories of their accomplishments filter through the sport. Eventually, their names become renowned, if only among a few thousand enthusiasts. Kayak legend Reg Lake is one of those heroes.

As a young man, he enjoyed hiking in the Sierras of California, but in the late 1960’s something new grabbed his attention. “While hiking at Point Reyes National Seashore, I met a couple of people who built their own kayaks. It wasn’t so much what they said but their enthusiasm, the way they talked about it. A short time later one of the guys at United Airlines [where Reg was employed] had a kayak for sale so I bought the kayak for a hundred bucks and I contacted these folks, seeking a source of instruction. It ends up that I found a tighter bond with the whitewater group than

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the backpacking crowd. ” Thus began a long career in kayaking that drove Reg from day paddles to epic, boundary-smashing explorations.

Once he got the feel for whitewater kayaking, he started to ask himself: is there anything more?

“The sport was so young, so many rivers that hadn’t been done before.

All the ones without portages had been done. So then you have to think: what hasn’t been done?”

This train of thought led him to some bold ideas.

What if kayaks could be carried over a great distance to seek out some of these previously un-run rivers?

How hard could it really be?

Playing in the foam “In 1980 I connected with some climbers that I met on a trip on Rio Bío Bío in Chile. We realized we had an interest in the front edge of kayaking. So we came back to the Sierras and checked out the topo maps and started plotting a couple rivers to do. I didn’t have the climbing knowledge; I trusted the climbers knew what they were doing. I felt my decision

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making would matter on the water. . . I would run it if I could and if not, it was a portage. ” And portage he did. Teaming up with famed climbers Royal Robbins (of Royal Robbins outdoor clothing), Doug Tompkins (co-founder of North Face and Espirit) and Yvon Chouinard

(founder of Patagonia), Reg began a series of long hauls to run some truly wild waters. They would pack up their kayaks and all their camping gear and trek across the mountains to find elusive untouched whitewater rapids.

“I felt out of my element in the climbing part of it. But being with

Royal Robbins and Doug Tompkins, if there was any rope work to be set, they’d set it. It goes back to putting confidence in your partners. Much like the way they climbed, when the lead would change, somebody would get to a crux move on the river and he’d scout it and then describe it to the others or they would point to their eyes and you’d get out and look at it yourself. ” So, the mountain people and the water people got together and had some epic adventures. They made their way across forest, rock and snow to some of the most remote rivers in the West. Along the way, they got pretty good at it.

One day, Royal was poring over a map and found something of interest to the team. No one had ever kayaked the headwaters of the Kern river, a mighty run that starts in the steep Sierras of Inyo county and peters out just east of Bakersfield. There was just one catch: getting there would mean a 22. 5 mile carry across Mount Whitney, the highest mountain in the contiguous United States. What sounds insane to you and me became a chal-

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Misty morning on Lake Whatcom Photo by Gene Davis

lenge to Reg and his team.

“For the 22 and a half miles of portaging over Mt. Whitney, we looked into an aerial drop, we looked at using pack animals, and there was no real legal way of doing it. . . So we were going to go through Yosemite and hire some climbers to help tow some gear but Doug ended up getting a couple employees from Espirit [the company he owned at the time]. We all carried our own kayaks but there was extra gear these employees carried. Once we got to the river, they carried the backpack frames and other stuff back out. So, it was a really good experience for them

and it worked out well for us. ” The climb was arduous and the long, steep whitewater was a mental and physical challenge, but the trip ended in weary, wet success: the first running of the upper Kern. Reg and his team had done the impossible.

I asked Reg how his success at these massive climbing/kayaking expeditions affected his understanding of what “difficult” really means.

“It’s funny now, if there’s a quarter mile portage people start grumbling.

You have to do stupid stuff to make it all relative. It’s the same thing with doing

Gear Spotlight: Beer and Gear

by Chris Gerston Beer and Gear seems to fit the northwest somehow, and I’ve noticed it hitting the rest of the country lately too. As a sucker for versatility, I’m reviewing a multipurpose do-everything pack, the Deuter Speed Lite 30, along with the equally handy and lightweight Momma’s Lil Yella Pils. Weighing in at 2 pounds, the Speed Lite 30 is great for Spring tours after the melt/thaw has locked most everything in place. It’s 30 litres of load handling suspension takes 30 pounds easily and has been

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a comforting cragging and alpine rock pack. During winter travel, it’s even been my wife’s pack of choice.

Momma’s Lil Yella Pils, at 12 ounces, is similarly light when you’re working hard, comforting when under duress, on point when needed, and liked both by men and women.

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long days. Usually 20 miles in a river is a good long day, but five or six times in my life I’ve done over 100 miles in a day. So you can do 20 miles in an afternoon if you have to.

You just keep moving. ” And Reg kept moving. He continued finding new explorations in California and went on numerous coastal expeditions in Chile. During this time, he was running his own kayak shop and learned the intricacies of kayak design. He was struck by the differences between sea kayaking and whitewater, and he explains why he prefers the whitewater.

“There’s a great line from songwriter Chuck Pyle: ‘For every mile of road there’s two miles of ditches. ‘ On the river, for every mile of river there’s two miles of shoreline. So there’s a lot of really good scenery. You take it all in, experience it. You drop down through some different life zones and there are different trees, the river changes character. It usually starts out steep and gets milder near the bottom. We’d put in at over 9000 feet sometimes and drop from alpine to tree-line to high desert. It’s an interesting experience. ” Nowadays, Reg Lake is busy with his friend Sterling Donalson at Sterling Kayaks in Bellingham, Washington.

They build some of the most beautiful and technologically advanced kayaks in the world, with orders coming in from all over the globe. A recent fire destroyed the shop, but after some understandable grief and consternation, they are back at it and plan to be running at capacity by summer of 2013.

If you want to get Reg Lake excited, talk about kayak design.

“I was getting frustrated with sea kayak design because I kept modifying >>> Go to AdventuresNW.com

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a little bit or looking for designs where the stern was freer. And it never was!

So when I was working with Sterling, I knew the value of freeing up the stern so we did that on the Grand Illusion. The Icecap and the Illusion had really good control. They’d out-perform the competition. But then with the Grand Illusion, we really got to play with it. And it was so maneuverable that I thought we were giving away some speed or something.

I thought we did too much; something must be wrong. Turns out nothing was wrong; it worked the way I thought it should!”

Though hurtling inexorably into his silver years, Reg continues to paddle. The passion remains undiminished. Among kayakers he remains a living legend. He’d bristle at this description, but in the world of passion sports we need our heroes. They don’t get TV deals or their faces plastered all over cereal boxes. Instead, they have their own secret club full of tremendous athletes; some of them fans, some of them

Back in the day: Reg with Royal Robbins and Doug Tompkins at the pass at Mount Whitney before the first descent of the Kern River

champions. The only thing holding them together is their love of adventure, from the trails to the oceans.

Reg has some sage words on the subject of “adventure”.

“Bruce Mason at Oregon University says ‘Adventure is something that while you’re doing it you wish you were back at home telling your friends about it.’

That rings true. Adventure, rightly stated, is only incompetence. Like Yvon Chouinard says, ‘It’s not an adventure until things start going wrong’. People will say, ‘I want to go on an adventure with you!’ And I’ll respond, ‘How about worthy goals accomplished uneventfully?’

Usually they’ll go along with that. ” Then Reg chuckles to himself: “I told this to someone and they used it in a book series: The difference between a fairy tale and a whitewater story is: a fairy tale starts out ‘Once upon a time. . . ‘ and a whitewater story starts out, ‘No shit, there I was!’”

There he was, indeed.

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Cascadia Gear:

Essentials for your next Adventure Sweet Dreams I’ve been backpacking for going on 35 years. Over that epoch-spanning time, I’ve seen a lot of revolutionary improvements in gear: the introduction of internalframe packs, the proliferation of fleece and Goretex®, the invention of the GPS. Maybe it’s just a reflection of my aging bones, but the improvement in sleeping pads strikes me as a matter of evolutionary importance. I started out sleeping on the cold, hard ground (Ah, those were the days!), moved to a closed-cell foam pad (what we called ‘Ensolite’ back in the day) and eventually discovered the Therm-A-Rest® Pad. My life changed when I got my first Therm-A-Rest®. Sleeping comfortably in the backcountry - what a concept!

And those ingenious folks at MSR® (makers of the Therm-ARest®) have once again taken a quantum leap forward with a new generation of sleeping pads. Their new NeoAir XLite™ is ridiculously light and packable. The full-length version (72”) weighs in at 12 ounces and packs down to 9 inches by 4 inches (about the size of a Nalgene bottle). Inflate it and it puffs up to 2.5 inches thick - a cushy miracle! No more strapping the pad onto the outside of the pack - it fits in a side pocket.

The NeoAir XLite™ offers a reflective layer that recycles body heat, but it is billed as a three season sleeping pad, so it’s not necessarily a good choice for sleeping on the snow. And a caveat: this pad is noisy. Tossing and turning causes a crinkling sound that takes some getting used to.

At the end of the day (when it matters the most), the NeoAir XLite™ delivers the kind of overnight comfort that we could, well, only dream about in the days of yore.

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http://cascadedesigns.com/

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A Well Adjusted Pole Trekking poles are a mixed blessing. No doubt: they make life easier on your knees as the years go by. But fiddling with them has sometimes been a little...frustrating. Some are very light, but not very rugged or easy to tweak. Some offer smooth adjustments but are heavy. The SureLock TR-3s from MSR achieve a happy medium. They’re not super-light (but not bad at 3 lbs, 3.8 oz for the regular length) but boy are they user-friendly. The unique trigger release makes them adjustable with two fingers of one hand, even if you’re wearing gloves (how many times have you taken your gloves off to adjust your poles?).

The locking system is rock-solid and when compressed, they measure just under 23 inches, good news when it’s time to strap them on the pack.

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Warm Feet, Warm Heart There’s an old adage about “warm hands, warm heart” but for my money, warm feet are what warm my heart. It’s hard to be warm when your feet are cold. The folks at Merrell understand this. Their insulated Norsehund Beta boot is available in both 8” and 6” high versions. The 8” claims a comfort level of -40 Fahrenheit, while the 6” is rated to -25 Fahrenheit .

On a three day snowshoe and camping adventure on the wind-blown slopes of Mt. Rainier, I brought the 6” Betas and while the temperatures never got anywhere near -25 degrees, they kept my feet (and my heart) delightfully warm - and dry. Merrell’s waterproof membrane kept the wetness out, yet my feet remained reasonably dry while sweating up the steep slopes, thanks to ColdSmart™ air flow channels that release moist air when you’re grunting up a hill, burdened by a pack full of warm clothes and gear.

And the insulated fleece lining made me forget about the cold when the sun went down. Another nice feature: the Betas slip on and off easily, a real benefit when you have to...er, step outside the tent in the middle of the night.

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Race I Play I Experience

9 March - 18 May

MARCH >>> Saturday, 9 March RUN Lake Sammamish HalfMarathon—Lake Sammamish State Park, 8:00 am – 11:30 am, One-way Redmond to Issaquah, scenic, flat, fast, chip-timed, long sleeve tech shirt, finisher medal, www.

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Sunday, 10 March RUN OZBALDY 50Km Marathon.

Kongsberger Ski Club––Cabin Creek Sno-Park, 9:00 am – 3:00 pm. www. kongsbergers.org

Monday, 11 March RUN Natural Running 101––MEC, 6:00 pm – 7:00 pm. http://www.mec. ca/AST/ContentPrimary/Community/ Events/EventsCalendar/BC.jsp

Saturday, 16 March RUN/WALK Runnin’ O’ the Green––Depot Market Square, 10:00 am – 11:00 am. This is a fun run/walk to celebrate the St. Patrick’s Day and enjoy time with friends and family. Enjoy Maggie’s Fury after the event along with dancing and smiles. www.cob.org/ races – trithecookie.com

Saturday, 23 March SPEC Forest & Wetland Restoration––Shadow Lake Nature Preserve, 10:00 am – 1:00 pm. www. shadowhabitat.org

Sunday, 24 March RUN/WALK The Big Climb— Columbia Center, 8:00 am – 5:00 pm, 788 ft vertical elevation, 69 flights, 1311 steps.

Climb. Conquer.

Cure. www. bigclimb.org

APRIL >>> Saturday, 6 April RUN/WALK Birch Bay International Road Race, 5K, 15K, 30K–– 8:30 am – 12:00 pm An international race that features all that’s great and wonderful about the sea side resort of Birch Bay. 5K, 15K & 30K courses follow miles of beach road. Truly a run in the country. Long sleeve running shirts, medallions for 15K & 30K. Club Challenge, a serious but fun competition between US & Canadian running clubs.

Hot post race food. http:// www.birchbayroadrace.com/

Sunday, 14 April RUN Whidbey Island Marathon–– TBA, 7:15 am – 1:15 pm. http://www. whidbeyislandmarathon.com/

Saturday, 20 April RUN Fun With The Fuzz 5k–– Bellingham Police Department 9:00 am – 12:00 pm Fun With The Fuzz 5k is a flat and fast course that winds through the streets of Bellingham. Entry fee of $20 includes a t-shirt, gift bag, and entry into our drawing for great prizes. 100% of the proceeds are donated directly to the Behind the Badge Foundation that supports families of police officers killed in the line of duty. $500 cash prize to top male and female finishers. http://www.funwiththefuzz.com BIKE 32nd Annual Tulip Pedal— La Conner Middle School, 7:00 am – 2:00 pm http://members. lovelaconner.com/events/ details/31st-annual-tulip-pedal-233

Sunday, 21 April RUN Spokane River Run––Riverside State Park, 7:45 am – 2:00 pm. http:// www.spokaneriverrun.com/

Wednesday, 24 April SPEC Safety,Tracking & Bird Alarms in Cougar,Wolf & Bear Country––WWU Outdoor Center, 6:00 pm – 8:00 pm. http://www. wolfcollege.com/early-release-familyhomeschool-and-evening-classes-onherbalism-survival-navigation-wildlife/ bellingham-sumas-whatcom-skagit-valley/

Sat-Sun, 27-28 April RUN Eugene Marathon & Half Marathon—7:00 am – 2:00 pm, This premier event in ‘track town USA’ includes a 5k and Kids Run (Sat, 4/27) and Marathon and Half-Marathon (Sun, 4/28). The courses are beautiful, flat and fast—taking participants by numerous parks and miles of riverfront trails before reaching the spectacular finish line on the track inside historic Hayward Field. Don’t miss one of the prettiest and most unique certified races in the country! Run in Eugene, and run in the footsteps of LEGENDS. http://www.eugenemarathon.com/

RUN Heroes Half Marathon & 10K––Port of Everett, 8:00 am – 12:00 pm. Half Marathon & 10K. Starts and finishes at Everett Marina. We close down 2 lanes of SR529 over the Snohmish River wetlands. That’s 2 lanes of a 4 lane divided highway.

No dodging other runners. Mainly flat so you are guaranteed a PR.Views of Puget Sound and Olympic Mountains. Special team category for Active Military and First Reponders. Military discount. Help us celebrate the Heroes Among Us. Race benefits military families. http:// www.heroeshalf.com/

MAY >>> Saturday, 4 May SPEC/WATER Whatcom Association of Kayak Enthusiasts – WAKE – Demo Day Gear Swap–– Bloedel Donovan Swim Beach and Pavilion Building, 10:00 am – 4:00 pm. WAKE’s annual DEMO DAY & GEAR SWAP! Come browse boats and gear available to purchase -or-Come early and drop off kayak gear/ boats you want to sell! *Gear drop off time – 8am to 9:45am* (WAKE will

Saturday July 13

retain 10% of the sale price in exchange for service) Want to Test Paddle New Kayaks? Our DEMO DAY event provides a great opportunity to test paddle many makes and models from local and regional vendors. See you there!

Wednesday, 15 May SPEC Roche Harbor Firefighters Multi-Sport Challenge––Roche Harbor. Resort Firefighters from all across the Pacific Northwest and British Columbia will compete in this 15K Run – 35K Bike -12K Kayak Challenge set against the unspoiled beauty of San Juan Island. http://www. rocheharbor.com/firefighterschallenge.html

Saturday, 18 May RUN/WALK Seattle’s Best 15K & Best Dressed 10K––Gas Works Park, 7:30 am – 11:00 am. Run around Lake Union in the heart of Seattle. Starts & finishes in Gas Works Park. 15K is a great training distance for a June marathon. This year we have added a 10K distance that will bring out the fashionista in you, Seattle’s Best Dressed 10K. Fashion show presented by Road Runner Sports. Same date, same start time. Medallions for 15K, running t’s for both distances, prizes for barefoot run-

26 th Annual

2013

Iron Person & Relay

.3-mile swim 14.8-mile bike 4-mile run

Plus a YOUTH TRI

(flotation devices allowed & parents encouraged to participate with their kids)

Sunday, 28 April Wednesday, 10 April WATER Learn to Sail––6:30 pm – 8:30 pm. www.boatingisfun.org

RUN Mt. Si Relay & Ultra Runs— Snoqualmie Elementary School, 6:00 am – 5:00 pm, 59-mile relay, 50K, 50M. 30th annual event by Eastside Runners in the Snoqualmie Valley. http:// mtsirelay.com

stories & the race|play|experience calendar online.

360.336.9414 tonyt@co.skagit.wa.us

skagitcounty.net/parksandrecreation race | play | experience

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race I play I experience

18 May (cont.) - 19 July ners & strawberry shortcake post race. http://www.seattle15k.com/

JUNE >>> Saturday, 1 June

Sunday, 19 May RUN/WALK Peach City Runfest–– Skaha Beach Park, 8:00 am – 12:00 pm.

Kids 1 Mile; 5 KM Walk/Run Charity Event; 10 KM Race; 1/2 Marathon Racehttp://peachcityrunfest.com

Sunday, 26 May SPEC Ski to Sea Race—Bellingham, WA, 7:45 am – 6:00 pm, Experience the legacy of the 1911 Mt. Baker Marathon and discover the “Ski to Sea” race held in Bellingham, Washington, USA every Memorial Day weekend. More than a race. Ski to Sea -May 26, 2013 – Limit of 500 Teams. A Relay Race of Seven Race Legs – Over 90 Miles. Seven Sports include XC Ski, Downhill Ski/Snowboard, Run, Road Bike, Canoe, Mountain Bike, Sea Kayak.

It’s one big party moving down the Mountain! www.SkitoSea.com

RUN/WALK Gap2Gap Relay––Sarg Hubbard Park,Yakima Greenway, 7:00 am – 2:00 pm. Multi-sport relay, 5-leg race utilizes the Yakima Greenway along the Yakima River. Elite or sport divisions, solo or team. Race includes 2m Fjeld Run, 10 or 8m Mtn Bike, Kayak or Inline Skate, 20m Road Bike, 10K or 5K Run. Junior course for kids age 6-14 includes a Run, Bike, Skate, Paddle, & Obstacle Course. Divisional awards presented in Sarg Hubbard Park postrace. Enjoy live music, beer, wine at Rock The Gap. www.yakimagreenway.org SPEC GEAR Expo––Comcast Arena at Everett, 10:00 am – Sunday @ 8:00 pm. Outdoor Adventure Trade Show – Two day consumer event http://www. gearupexpo.com WALK 10th Annual Leavenworth Wine Walk––12:00 pm – 6:00 pm. www.cascadefarmlands.com RUN/WALK Starlight Run––Lincoln High Track & Field, 7:45 pm – 9:00 pm. www.starlightrun.com

Thursday, 6 June SPEC Blazing Paddles Film

Festival––Lincoln Theatre, 7:00 pm – 10:00 pm. Come celebrate the passion of paddlesports! A unique opportunity to view outstanding watersports films, inspiring people to explore rivers, lakes and oceans, push physical and emotional extremes, embrace the lifestyle and appreciate the heritage of the wild places we paddle.

Combining insight, humor, drama and passion with fastpaced action, incredible scenery and culture, this film festival will take you around the globe, and for only $12 you can ride shotgun along for the action! A Roadshow of the Reel Paddling Film Festival.

Saturday, 8 June RUN/WALK Girls on the Run 5K––9:00 am – 11:00 am. Unleash confidence through accomplishment while establishing a lifetime appreciation of health and fitness. http://www. whatcomymca.org

Wednesday, 19 June SPEC Patricia Walden Yoga Workshop––Yoga Northwest, 10:00 am – 1:00 pm. We are extremely excited to host a 5-day yoga workshop with Patricia Walden once again! www. yoganorthwest.com/yoga/workshops-

retreats/5-days-w-patricia-walden

Saturday, 22 June RUN/WALK Rock & Roll Seattle––Seattle Center, 7:00 am – 11:00 am. http://runrocknroll.competitor.com/seattle

Saturday, 29 June BIKE Cornucopia Days Bike Event–– Burlington Park in Kent, 7:00 am – 5:00 pm. Great Training ride for STP and to help those in need.

SPEC MountainFilm on Tour–– Winthrop, WA,12:00 pm – 12:00 am.

North Cascades Mountain Hostel brings an inspiring and world-renowned film festival to the Methow Valley. http:// www.mountainfilm.org/tour

JULY >>> Friday, 19 July RUN Ragnar Northwest Passage— Blaine, WA to Whidbey Island, 7:00 am – 5:00 pm, Ragnar Relay is the overnight running relay series that makes testing your limits a team sport.

You and your band of 11 teammates will run day and night from Blaine, WA to Whidbey Island in one of the craziest and most unforgettable weekends of

July 27

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race | play | experience

>>> VIew or download even MORE Race|Play|Experience

19 July (cont.) - 14 September

race I play I experience

your life. Sign up today and join the Ragnar Nation! www. ragnarrelay.com/race/northwestpassage

Sunday, 21 July RUN/WALK Benaroya Research Institute Seafair Triathlon––Seward Park, 6:30 am – 11:00 am. www.seafair. com/anevent.aspx?ID=5

Sunday, 27 July BIKE Tour de Whatcom—Bellingham, 7-11:30am starts depending on distance. A fun charity bike ride (25, 50 or 105 miles, all fairly level) with awesome views.

No matter your distance, you get to see everything: Mt Baker, Lake Whatcom, valleys, rivers, lush farmland, beaches and north Puget Sound. All routes offer well-stocked reststops, bike techs/ safety checks (at the start too), and a “family” rate. Starts are coordinated so riders roll in around the same time for the festivities back at the Fairhaven Village Green. FREE pictures too. 360-739-9953, tourdewhatcom.com MULTI Olympia Traverse—12:00 pm – 4:00 pm.The Fourth Annual Olympia Traverse is proud to be working with City of Olympia, Department of Natural Resources, and the Port of Olympia. We are looking forward to working with the local business community to provide for new revenue stream for local and regional charities., olympiatraverse.com

ance to complete the approximately 3 mile course, humility to wallow in the mud and a smile to show off at the finish line! -Dressing up is encouraged and prizes will be given for the most creative ideas. Also, bring your camera, the obstacles are all spectator friendly, and your family’s muddy grins might make the perfect Christmas card! http://www.mudstosuds.com/

SEPTEMBER >>> Saturday, 7 September BIKE Emerald City Lights Bike & 5-K Walk––Auburn Game Farm Park, 7:00 am – 5:00 pm. Fun Family Event bike or walk and give to those in need. http://emeraldcitylights.com/

Saturday, 14 September RUN/WALK Fairhaven Runners Waterfront 15K––Fairhaven Village Green, 8:30 am – 10:30 am, Whether running or walking along this 9.3 mile course, you get a great

AUGUST >>> Saturday, 10 August BIKE Capitol Forest Classic feat. NW All Mountain Championships––Fall Creek Day Use Area, 9:00 am – 4:00 pm. Friends of Capitol Forest (FOCF) presents the seventh annual Capitol Forest Classic, featuring the Northwest All Mountain Championships. Spend the weekend at the Pacific Northwest’s premier mountain bike festival! Featuring two epic race courses of 100% singletrack, the XC course will challenge riders at all levels, and the Super D course will leave riders grinning ear to ear. All-Mountain titles awarded on Sunday. Free on-site camping, kids race, awards, raffle and BBQ both days http://capitolforestclassic.com

Saturday, 24 August

Natural History Excursions Backcountry Adventures Family Getaways • Group Rentals Graduate M.Ed. Degree Art and Writing Retreats • Base Camp Skagit Tours and more!

WWW.NCASCADES.ORG EMAIL: NCI@NCASCADES.ORG CALL (360) 856-2599

event listings at AdventuresNW.com

Photos left-right: Rick Allen, Nick Mikula, Doug Ogle

SPEC Muds to Suds Mud Race––Hovander Park, 8:00 am – 6:00 pm. This “mud race” will feature: -17+ dirty obstacles that combine athletic stamina and your child hood fantasy of playing in the mud. You will need endur-

race | play | experience

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14 September (cont.) - 14 October opportunity to traverse Bellingham Bay’s beautiful waterfront.Tour the Taylor Street Dock, Boulevard Park, downtown and the marina.The race features chip timing and finishes with a postrace party including food, live music and complimentary massage and chiropractic care. Be sure to stay for awards (5 year age groups to 80+), random prizes and prompt race results! We have a beautiful, well-staffed course starting in Fairhaven and running out through downtown Bellingham and back on waterside paths.

From elite racing to fitness walking this course is awesome. Capped at 1000 participants. Advance registration only. http://fairhavenrunners.com/15k/ RUN/WALK Bellingham Traverse––Market Depot/Boundary Bay, 12:00 pm – 6:00 pm. The Bellingham Traverse is a community event that celebrates the lifecycle of wild salmon, demonstrating the natural and urban challenges of their journey. Solo, tandem and relay teams challenge themselves and one another on a rugged course that highlights the City of Bellingham’s parks, Greenways

system, bike-friendly roads, and open water opportunities for recreation http://nwtraverse.com/bellinghamtraverse/home BIKE FAT 55 Mountain Bike Marathon––Greenwaters Park, Oakridge Oregon, 8:00 am – 6:00 pm. A marathon mountain bike race featuring some of Oakridge’s best trails, organic food, local music. http://www. fatfiftyfive.com

Sunday, 15 September BIKE Chuckanut Century 2013–– Boundary Bay, 10:00 am – 5:00 pm.The 2013 Chuckanut Century will be held on September 15, 2013. Ride one of the most scenic rides in Washington.With many routes offered you can pick your distance ranging from 25, 38, 50, 62, 100, or the double metric century of 124 miles. Although all cyclists should be fully prepared when they take to the roads you can enjoy the added security of knowing that there is ride support if needed and food stops along all of the routes.The 25 mile loop is perfect for the first timer to an organized event. All routes start and finish at the legendary Boundary Bay Brewery. www.chuckanutcentury.org/top.html

Tulips are meant to be seen from a bike saddle—not from the inside of a car.

Saturday, April 20, 2013 La Conner Middle School La Conner, Washington

(360) 428-3230 www.safekidsskagit.com registration: www.active.com

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The 32nd Annual Safe Kids/Group Health Tulip Pedal brings hundreds of cyclists to the Skagit Valley during its annual tulip festival.

Come ride with us.

Help us keep kids safe.

race I play I experience Friday, 20 September BIKE the Intrepid––7:00 am – Sunday @ 4:00 pm. 3 days, 300 miles, 20,000 feet Done the GranFondo’s? The Intrepid is the next challenge in cycling. 3 day stage ride in BC’s Okanagan Valley, Sept. 20 to 22, 2013. Ride from Kelowna to Big White, to Osoyoos, to Penticton Adventurous, Fraternal, Intimate.

Saturday, 21 September RUN/WALK Tour de Whidbey–– Greenbank Farm, 7:00 am – 6:00 pm.

Hospital fundraising ride with wellsupported 10, 30,40,50,100 mile routes on Whildbey Island country road https://whidbeygen.org/wgh-foundation/ tour-de-whidbey/tour-de-whidbey

Advertiser Index

American Alpine Institute.......................... 37 Backcountry Essentials.............................. 42 Bay to Baker Trading Co........................... 16 Bellingham Athletic Club............................. 4 Bellingham Automotive............................... 3 Bellingham Frameworks.............................. 3 Bellingham Kite•Paddle•Surf................... 43 Bellingham-Whatcom County Tourism...................................... 47 Boundary Bay B&B..................................... 3 Brandon Nelson - Re/Max........................ 17 Bridget Boylan, PT LAC............................. 12 Bruce Cox Motors.................................... 23 Busara Thai Cuisine.................................. 19 Cerise Noah - Windermere Real Estate............................................ 21 Chrysalis Inn & Spa.................................. 13 Colophon Cafe......................................... 32 Community Boating Center........................ 41 Community Food Coop............................. 39 D’Anna’s Cafe Italiano.............................. 29 Danne Neill - The Muljat Group................. 33 Dawn Durand - Windermere Real Estate.............................................. 9 Everybody Bike........................................ 12 Fairhaven Bike & Ski................................. 16 Fairhaven Pizza........................................ 21 Fairhaven Runners & Walkers.................... 21 Flyers Restaurant...................................... 41 Gato Verde Adventure Sailing................... 29 Gone Diving............................................. 32 JM Electric............................................... 43 Joe Jowdy Photography............................ 37 Kulshan Brewery......................................... 7 Kulshan Cycles......................................... 38 LFS Marine & Outdoor............................. 31

Saturday, 28 September RUN/WALK/BIKE 2nd Annual Methow Valley Off-Road Duathlon––Chickadee Trailhead, 9:00 am – 2:00 pm. A beautiful and challenging 40Km Mtn Bike/10Km Trail Run meandering through aspen and pine. http://methowduathlon.blogspot.com/

OCTOBER >>> Monday, 14 October RUN/WALK Steve King 100 Classic Relay & Ultra––Princeton to Summerland, 6:00 am – 7:00 pm.100 KM Realy upto 8 members, 100 KM Ultra/Solo. www.stevekingclassic.com

Visit AdventuresNW.com for complete listings of Outdoor events through 2013 Lithtex NW............................................... 29 Mallard Ice Cream................................... 43 MBBC Chuckanut Century......................... 46 McNett Corporation................................. 39 Meridian Tire........................................... 13 Nathan McAllister.................................... 29 Nooksack Casino........................ Back Cover North Cascades Mountain Guides............. 11 North Cascades Mountain Hostel.............. 11 North Cascades Institute........................... 47 North Fork Brewery.................................. 36 Northwest Navigation.............................. 24 NW European Autoworks......................... 44 Northwest Traverse..................................... 6 Old Fairhaven Association........................ 20 Orca Inn.................................................. 25 Pizza Pipeline.................... Inside Back Cover Quicksilver Photo Lab............................... 33 ReStore.................................................... 47 Sally Farrell - Coldwell Banker................... 19 San Juan Sailing....................................... 25 Seattle City Light/Skagit Tours................... 50 Skagit Co. Parks Clear Lake Triatholon............................. 45 Skagit EMS Safe Kids............................... 48 Skagit Valley Food Co-Op......................... 39 Sportsman Chalet....................................... 9 Sustainable Connections........................... 33 The Markets............................................. 33 Tour de Whatcom..................................... 46 Tour de Whidbey...................................... 20 Village Books........................................... 48 Whatcom Educational Credit Union........... 29 Whatcom Events................ Inside Front Cover Whatcom Family YMCA............................ 13 Whidbey Island Bank.................................. 5 Zaremba Paxton PS.................................. 24

Let Us GUIDE You!

Come In, Explore & Discover

VILLAGE BOOKS

1200 11th St • Bellingham • 800.392.BOOK • www.villagebooks.com

the

Next

Adventure

Rialto Sunset photo by Tim Chandonnet After a long wet winter, a few days of sun in the forecast inspired me to take a road trip out to the coast. After the long drive, it was nearly sunset when I pulled into the parking lot at Rialto Beach in Olympic National Park. Although Rialto is one of the most popular and accessible beaches in the park, I was delighted to find myself alone.

With only the refreshing salt air and the hypnotic sounds of the wild Pacific to accompany me, I hiked along the beach to Hole in the Wall. It was my first visit to Rialto and it was pure magic.

Tim Chandonnet is a Bellingham-based photographer. View his work at: www.timcphoto.com .

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Experience the North Cascades life d l i W our T t oa B t i ag

met Goiunring d

Natural beauty

Hiking

Sk

Skagit Tours 2013

Ninety miles north and east of Seattle, experience the beauty, adventure, learning and fun in the North Cascades.

To learn more about what awaits you in the magical North Cascades, visit www.skagittours.com or call 360-854-2589.

Experience nature’s beauty on a scenic boat tour of Diablo Lake

n

n Explore the North Cascades with a guided shuttle tour and

powerhouse visit

n

Learn from the experts with the popular powerhouse tours

n

Take a free walking tour of historic Newhalem

www.ncascades.org www.nps.gov/noca Photo credits: Rick Allen, Benj Drummond, John Harter, Elizabeth Penhollow & NEllen Regier

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race | play | experience

Featuring some of the best Pacific Northwest Microbrews!

• Happy Hour 11am-6pm $1 Off Pints • 200 Micro Brews • 50 Beers on Tap • Live Music Every Thursday • Local Artists & Celtic Music

Bottled Beer & Wine To Go Pizza • Subs • Wings & More Hours: Sun-Wed, 11am - 2am Thurs & Sat, 11am - 3am

1118 E. Maple Street on Samish Way

(360) 647-3600 Order online @ www.pizzapipeline.com