National Culinary Review (Jan/Feb 2023)

THE INDUSTRY STATE OF

Editor-in-Chief

Creative

Graphic Designer

Advertising and Event Sales

Eric Gershowitz

Director of Marketing and Communications

Contributing Editors

Amanda Baltazar, John Bartimole, Jennifer Hill Booker, Ashten Garrett, Lauren Kramer, Robert Wemischner, Howard Riell, Jody Shee

Copy Editor

Erica Demarest

American Culinary Federation, Inc.

6816 Southpoint Parkway Ste 400 Jacksonville, FL 32216 (800) 624-9458 (904) 824-4468 Fax: (904) 940-0741 ncr@acfchefs.net ACFSales@mci-group.com www.acfchefs.org

Board of Directors

President

Kimberly Brock Brown, CEPC®, CCA®, AAC®

Immediate Past President Thomas Macrina, CEC®, CCA, AAC National Secretary Jeff Bacon, CEC, CCA, AAC

National Treasurer Kent Andersen, CEC, CCA, AAC

American Academy of Chefs Chair Americo “Rico” DiFronzo, CEC, CCA, AAC

Vice President Central Region Rajeev Patgaonkar, CEC, AAC

Vice President Northeast Region Barry R. Young, CEC, CCE®, AAC, MBA

Vice President Southeast Region Bryan Frick, CEC, AAC

Vice President Western Region Greg Matchett, CEC

Executive Director Heidi Cramb

The National Culinary Review® (ISSN 0747-7716), January/February 2023, Volume 47, Number 1, is owned by the American Culinary Federation, Inc. (ACF) and is produced six times per year by ACF, located at 6816 Southpoint Parkway, Ste 400, Jacksonville, FL 32216. A digital subscription to the National Culinary Review® is included with ACF membership dues; print subscriptions are available to ACF members for $25 per year, domestic; nonmember subscriptions are $40. Material from the National Culinary Review®, in whole or in part, may not be reproduced without written permission. All views and opinions expressed in the National Culinary Review® are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views and opinions of the officers or members of ACF. Changes of mailing address should be sent to ACF’s national office: 6816 Southpoint Parkway, Ste 400, Jacksonville, FL 32216; (800) 624-9458; Fax (904) 940-0741.

The National Culinary Review® is mailed, and periodical postage is paid at St. Augustine, Fla., and additional post offices.

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to the National Culinary Review®, 6816 Southpoint Parkway, Ste 400, Jacksonville, FL 32216.

Happy New Year! The theme for this year is growth! We are firing on all cylinders! As I reported at my town hall meeting in December, we are seeing increases in membership numbers, chapter compliance, accreditations, certifications, sponsorships and even social media impressions. All of this is helping propel us toward the future. As we kick off 2023, let me share some things on my agenda that I’m excited about.

The Next Generation: ACF continues to focus on mentoring the next generation of chefs. We recently launched a new Young Chefs Club community on the Chef’s Table forum. It’s up to us members to extend a hand to emerging chefs and bridge the gap, just like others helped us along the way. On page 40, ACF Chef Ashten Garrett offers his perspective on this topic as an emerging professional and immediate past president of YCC (the current YCC President is Isaiah Gerrard).

Diversity, Equity and Inclusion: It’s important to come together as an organization and learn from each other. Instead of thinking outside of the box, let’s bring all of our “boxes” together to determine the best steps to move ACF and the industry forward. February is a special month for me and many others; in honor of Black History Month, check out ACF Chef Jennifer Hill Booker’s article on how Africans and other groups have influenced what American barbecue looks like today (p. 16). This is just one example of the many contributions of ACF members to the culinary field.

New Competition Programming: This year, instead of multiple regional competitions, we are holding qualifying competitions in March at Johnson County Community College in Kansas. The top scorers in each category will go on to compete for ACF Chef of the Year, Pastry Chef of the Year, Student Team and other national awards at convention. This new format ensures that ACF is presenting the best of the best to the industry.

2023 Annual Convention and Continuing Education: We listened to the membership and cut out a day to put together a more compact, contentrich convention this year. Expect another amazing lineup of speakers! I am also making it my goal to pair younger chefs with these talented presenters so that young chefs can learn from the experience and offer a much-needed hand. Prior to the start of convention, we will be hosting a day of community service, and we’ll be kicking off the 2023 MasterCraft Summit Series with an educator summit, followed by additional summits this year covering cannabis, culinary nutrition and plant-based cooking to name a few.

Local Chapter and Leadership Support: We are here to support members who aspire to become leaders on the local, regional and national levels. Consider joining the Chapters Supporting Chapters work group to be a part of meetups and to learn about the resources and networking available. Four years ago, I never thought I would be running for ACF national president until someone encouraged me. If you’re thinking about getting more involved in ACF leadership positions, I encourage you to start off by learning the eligibility requirements. Our success really depends on your involvement. To quote Martin Luther King Jr., “Life’s most persistent and urgent question is, ‘What are you doing for others?’” What do you do to represent ACF? How are you helping us grow? That’s my challenge from me to you for 2023.

The future does not just happen. The future is something we create. And the future is now.

Let’s go!

Contact me at chefkbb@acfchefs.org or follow me on Instagram @chefkimberlybrockbrown and facebook @chefkimberlyepicurean

Kimberly Brock Brown, CEPC, CCA, AAC National President, American Culinary Federation

Amelia Levin

Services Manager David Ristau

Armando Mitra

Alan Sterling

¡Feliz Año Nuevo! ¡El tema de este año es el crecimiento!

¡Estamos actuando en todas las áreas con todo nuestro entusiasmo! Como informé en la reunión general en diciembre, estamos percibiendo un aumento en el número de miembros, cumplimiento de capítulos, acreditaciones, certificaciones, patrocinios e incluso visitas en las redes sociales. Todo esto nos estimula a impulsarnos hacia el futuro. Permítanme compartir algunas cosas de mi agenda a comienzos del 2023 que me entusiasman mucho.

La próxima generación: ACF sigue centrándose en asesorar a la próxima generación de chefs. Recientemente lanzamos una nueva comunidad del Club de Jóvenes Chefs en el foro 'Mesa del Chef'. Depende de nosotros tender una mano a los nuevos chefs y disminuir las distancias, al igual que otros nos ayudaron en nuestro camino. El página 40, el Chef Ashten Garrett, de ACF, ofrece su perspectiva sobre este tema como un profesional emergente y ex-presidente en el pasado inmediato de YCC (el actual Presidente de YCC es Isaiah Gerrard).

Diversidad, equidad e inclusión: Es importante que nos unamos como organización y aprendamos entre todos. En lugar de pensar fuera del contexto, debemos unir todos nuestros “contextos” para determinar los mejores pasos para hacer avanzar a la ACF y a nuestra industria. Febrero es un mes especial para mí y para muchos otros en honor al Mes de la Historia Afroamericana. Echemos un vistazo al artículo de la chef de ACF, Jennifer Hill Booker, sobre cómo los africanos y otros grupos han influido en cómo se ve la barbacoa americana hoy (p. 16). Este es solo un ejemplo de las muchas contribuciones de los miembros de ACF para el sector culinario.

Nueva programación de la competencia: Este año, en lugar de múltiples competencias regionales, celebramos competencias clasificatorias en marzo en la Universidad Comunitaria del Condado de Johnson, en Kansas. Las mejores puntuaciones de cada categoría competirán por el premio "Chef del Año de la ACF", "Chef Pastelero(a) del Año", "Equipo Estudiantil" y otros premios nacionales durante la convención. Este nuevo formato garantiza que ACF presente lo mejor de lo mejor para la industria.

Convención Anual 2023 y Educación Continua: Escuchamos a los miembros y decidimos organizar una convención más compacta y rica en contenido este año. ¡Esperen otra asombrosa exposición de los oradores! También estoy diseñando mi meta de juntar a los chefs más jóvenes con estos presentadores talentosos, para que puedan aprender de la experiencia y ofrecer una mano, que es muy necesaria. Antes del inicio de la convención, organizaremos un día de servicio comunitario e iniciaremos la Serie Cumbre MasterCraft 2023, una cumbre de educadores, seguida de cumbres adicionales durante el año, que cubrirán el canabis, la nutrición culinaria y la cocina basada en plantas, por nombrar algunos temas.

Capítulo local y apoyo al liderazgo: Estamos aquí para apoyar a los miembros que aspiran a convertirse en líderes a nivel local, regional y nacional. Consideren unirse al grupo de trabajo Capítulos de Apoyo para formar parte de los encuentros y aprender sobre los recursos y redes disponibles. Hace cuatro años, nunca pensé que me postularía a la presidencia nacional de la ACF hasta que alguien me animó. Si están pensando en involucrarse más en puestos de liderazgo en la ACF, los animo a que lo hagan conociendo los requisitos de elegibilidad. Nuestro éxito realmente depende de su participación. Para citar a Martin Luther King Jr., “La pregunta más persistente y urgente de la vida es: ‘¿Qué estamos haciendo por los demás?’”. ¿Qué hacemos para representar a la ACF? ¿Cómo nos ayuda a crecer? Ese es mi desafío para ustedes para el 2023.

El futuro no sólo sucede. El futuro es algo que creamos y es ahora.

¡Hagámoslo!

Kimberly Brock Brown, CEPC, CCA, AAC Presidente Nacional, American Culinary Federation

Online Exclusives at WeAreChefs.com

Visit WeAreChefs.com, the official content hub for the American Culinary Federation, for stories and news about ACF members, industry and menu trends, recipes and more.

ACF ChefsForum Webinar Series

Visit WeAreChefs.com for detailed descriptions and registration links for upcoming webinars, including:

• Focus on Mental, Physical & Emotional Wellbeing for Chefs (Jan. 4, 4 p.m. EST) Dedicated to the late Eric Fleishman (“Eric the Trainer”), a friend to ACF, this special session will cover topics such as how to recognize when someone needs help; best ways to offer support; de-stressing after work and more.

• Today’s Veal Industry: A Story of Animal Wellbeing (Jan. 18, 3 p.m. EST) This close-up look at a veal farm humanely raising calves will include a talk from the farmer and a chance to ask questions (sponsored by Beef Checkoff).

• CMC Spotlight: Focus on Fermentation (Jan. 20, 10 a.m. EST) Join ACF Master Chef Tim Bucci, CMC, as he shares his knowledge on lacto-fermentation and the science behind the increasingly popular but very old technique.

ACF Chef & Chapter Spotlights

We’ll repost some of the ACF Chef spotlights from the Chef’s Table online forum here, along with other articles highlighting members and chapter activities. The latest post is about the ACF Augusta (Georgia) chapter’s volunteer work with the American Legion.

Ingredient of the Month

Each month, we highlight a different ingredient in the ACF’s Online Learning Center. Visit the center at acfchefs.org/IOTM to complete a quiz and earn one hour of continuing education credit toward ACF certification and recertification.

Cheers to ACF Culinary Team USA!

ACF Culinary Team USA earned a silver medal for both the Restaurant of Nations and the Chef’s Table portions of the Villeroy & Boch Culinary World Cup in Luxembourg in late November. Read a recap of the team’s experience and view photos, plus, get a sneak peek at preparations for the 2024 IKA Culinary Olympics in Stuttgart, Germany.

ACF’s Online Learning Center

The Culinary Insider, ACF’s biweekly newsletter, offers ACF news and links to recent articles, plus information about upcoming events, certification, member discounts, competitions, contests and much more. Sign up at acfchefs.org/tci.

Follow the ACF on your favorite social media platforms:

@acfchefs

@acfchefs

@acf_chefs

@acfchefs

@acf_chefs

American Culinary Federation

Check out ACF’s Online Learning Center. There you’ll find NCR quizzes, videos of educational sessions from ACF events, practice exams for certification and more. Visit learn.acfchefs.org to get started and earn CEHs.

PARMESAN and AMERICAN GRANA®

At BelGioioso, aging cheese is a science and art form. Our Master Cheesemakers hand-craft Parmesan and American Grana® wheels guided by a commitment to quality and respect for tradition. Our cheeses take patience to produce, we age each Parmesan wheel for at least 10 months and 18 to 24 months for American Grana®. This provides the time to develop our full, nutty, award-winning flavor.

Available in whole wheels, cuts, shredded and grated.

NEWS BITES

2023 National Qualifying Competitions

The deadline to apply for the 2023 National Competition Qualifiers passed on Dec. 31, but that doesn’t mean you can’t come out and support those competing for coveted ACF awards, including Chef of the Year, Pastry Chef of the Year, Student Chef of the Year, Student Pastry Chef of the Year and Student Team of the Year! The 2023 National Competition Qualifiers will take place March 11-13 at Johnson County Community College in Overland Park, Kansas. For more information on this and other upcoming competitions, visit acfchefs.org/Competitions.

2023 ACF National Convention Early Bird Rates

Register between Jan. 1 and March 31 for the 2023 National Convention and save $200! Don’t miss the opportunity to be a part of the largest annual gathering of chefs, students and foodservice professionals in the country. An amazing lineup of speakers, demos and more is in the works. Register at acfchefs. org/Convention

Membership Drive

January kicks off the ACF Chapter Challenge – Membership Drive. Let’s retain and grow local chapter members in our network! Check out the Chapter Leadership Newsletter or email daltieri@acfchefs.org for more information and to register your chapter.

Chapters Supporting Chapters

Come grow with us! Mark your calendars for this exciting meetup on Jan. 26 at 7 p.m. EST, which will feature a panel discussion with ACF Chefs Derek Ivancic, CEC (Cleveland), Sarah Mallard, CC (Boise, Idaho), Addiemae Rolle-Farrington, CEC, CWPC, CCE, HAAC (Nassau, Bahamas), and Don Zajac, CC (Chicago), moderated by ACF Chef Jay Ziobrowski, CEC (Charlotte, North Carolina).

New ACF Chef’s Table Community

There is a new community on ACF’s online Chef’s Table for junior and student members! Hosted by ACF Young Chefs Club President Isaiah Gerrard, the goal for this community is to provide a virtual workspace for emerging chefs to share ideas, ask questions, seek peerto-peer support and connect with ACF chef mentors. Join or encourage your peers to join today!

ACF National Officer Elections

Be on the lookout for email announcements and The Culinary Insider (ACF’S biweekly newsletter, sign up at acfchefs.org/tci) for voting instructions and information on the candidates running for ACF National president, secretary, treasurer, central region vice president, Northeast region vice president, Southeast region vice president and Western region vice president for the 2023-2025 term. The candidates, statements and bios can be found on the elections webpage, acfchefs.org/Elections.

ACF Certification Commission

The commission continues to review and update processes and requirements to remain relevant with the industry. Here are some updates effective Jan. 1:

• Scoresheets: “use of time” has been clarified to award points based on timeliness of completion

• CEPC practical exam: celebration-themed cake has been replaced with truffles/molded chocolate

• CCE requirements for industry work experience can include 1,000 on-the-job hours within the past five years

• Candidates who have taken the CSC exam within the past 10 years do not need to take the practical exam, which has been changed to align with the CSC practical exam

• There is an option to evaluate a live teaching versus a recorded teaching demonstration

• Emeritus eligibility has been streamlined for certified chefs upon reaching the age of 62 or if retired from the industry at any age due to disability

• Updates have been made to the mentor and trainer applications

For more information, visit acfchefs.org/ACF/Certify/ AdminEval

Food Safety Training

AboveTraining Inc./StateFoodSafety, an American Safety Council company, has partnered with ACF to provide special rates on food safety training for ACF members. Credit hours earned through this partnership partially fulfill the 30-hour training requirement to attain ACF certification and can be counted toward the eight hours of continuing education that ACF requires every five years. As part of this partnership, ACF members will receive discounted rates on the following SFS offerings:

• Food Handler

• Food Manager

• Food Allergens

• Alcohol Server

To gain access, log in to the ACF Online Learning Center or visit statefoodsafety.com/CustomPortal/acfchefs

READ THIS!

"Luscious Legacies Cookbook: L'Dor V'Dor: From Generation to Generation,” by ACF Chef Idalee Cathcart, CEPC, owner of L'Dor V'Dor Confections and a Culinary Institute of America graduate, features a variety of comfort-driven recipes like stuffed cabbage rolls, chili, potato-onion rolls and radish candy meant to bring people together and back to the table.

Salut

ACF Chef Jim Churches CEC, CCA, AAC, was promoted to senior corporate executive chef and culinary team leader for Land O’Lakes Dairy Foods. Chef Churches will elevate Land O’Lakes and its culinary footprint in the industry and lead the field-based Land O’Lakes culinary team.

ACF Chef Jacob Kuehn, senior director of culinary services, Kent State, was featured on FoodserviceDirector.com in an article about his team’s transition to self-operated foodservice.

Do you have news or milestones to share? Email it all to communications@acfchefs.org!

MANAGING THE MENU

By Jody Shee

Y our business blood pressure rises with every elevated food cost, delinquent delivery and unskilled employee incident. You need a good dose of something. There are many ways to handle this trifecta of business challenges but consider a path to profitability through menu management strategies

that help to maximize efficiencies. Here are 10 tips and tricks tried and suggested by your colleagues.

Make smart substitutions. In a fluctuating chicken-tenders market, ACF Chef Melinda Burrows, CEC, CCA, executive chef at Hickory Hills Country Club in Springfield, Missouri, was forced to go with chicken breasts, which became transformational. “Now we are getting 5-ounce boneless skinless chicken breasts and cutting them in two, which is the same as two chicken tenders

but without having to cut the tendon. We are saving money on the product and saving labor dollars on processing, so it’s a win-win,” she says.

Cross-utilize more ingredients. The goal of using every product many ways is to get maximum usage and yield leading to zero waste, Chef Burrows says.

Chef Cesar Zapata , chef/co-owner of Vietnamese-Cajun fusion concept Phuc Yea in Miami, sees it that way, too. “If I have a spring roll, I use the ground pork and shrimp mixture with a few different ingredients and make dumplings out of it,” he says. “Same thing with short ribs. I use the trimmings in dumplings or hash for brunch.”

At ReWard Restaurant Group, Inc., in Coffeyville, Texas, when ACF Chef/Owner Rena Frost brings in certain in-season fish for entrees, she’ll use any leftovers for other parts of the menu. For example, when fresh trout stars on the menu at either of her two restaurants, she’ll feature a smoked trout dip appetizer as a special to keep the inventory moving.

Consider cutbacks. Rethink the expensive premium items on the menu. Prior to pandemic and supply woes, Chef Zapata offered two or three steak options

From left: ACF Chef Melinda Burrows, CEC, CCA, executive chef at Hickory Hills Country Club, Springfield, Missouri; ACF Chef Rena Frost, chef/owner of ReWard Restaurant Group, Inc., Coffeyville, Texas

on the menu. Now he’s down to one. He also eliminated duck in favor of chicken.

During the pandemic, Chef Frost eliminated the Sunday brunch fresh fruit and salad bar simply to cut back on waste. She never added it back, and though guests miss it, she can no longer justify the surplus, she says.

The idea of eliminating ingredients challenges your concept and values. Sometimes there is no compromise. For example, when the sunflower oil shortage hit, along with increased product and shipping costs, Chef Burrows had to ask, “Will I stop using that? No. We will pay the cost to get that wonderful oil. That item I’m passionate about,” she says.

Consult more vendors. Supply shortages made business as usual with

the same small group of vendors nearly impossible for Chef Frost. “Instead of one vendor and a backup, I have two more backups, so one main vendor and three and maybe a fourth for grocery items,” she says. As a result, she’s become more of a price shopper.

Price shopping takes more of the kitchen manager’s time. It can take four hours instead of one, “but it’s helped us keep the higher costs down,” Chef Frost says.

Curtail excess customization.

Customization is standard operations for fast casual eateries, as well as food stations in universities. However, ACF Chef Kurt Kwiatkowski, CEC, CCA, AAC, corporate executive chef at Michigan State University in East Lansing, has had to make tweaks to

From left: The trout dip appetizer appears on the menu at Mac’s on Main when fish is brought in for an entree. The smoked trout dip contains sherry vinegar, Dijon mustard, fresh garlic and egg yolks and is served with caper chimichurri drizzled on top and grilled French baguettes; When crab becomes too expensive, chefs at ReWard Restaurant Group take popular crab cakes off the menu, knowing guests wouldn’t want to pay what they would be required to if crab cakes were on the menu; Michigan State University purchases vegetable blends to negate backend labor. Below: ACF Chef Kurt Kwiatkowski, CEC, CCA, AAC, corporate executive chef at Michigan State University in East Lansing.

the customization he offers to save on labor. Previously, guests visiting the wok station could choose individual vegetables to go into their bowl, along with an assortment of sauces and grains. “Now they can choose from two styles of vegetables, rice, a protein and one of two sauces. We had to streamline how we do that, which leads to less customization,” he says. In the give and take, he emphasizes the importance of good cooking practices like grilling and sauteing. Purchasing pre-cut vegetable blends like broccoli, snow peas, red pepper and red onions has also helped deal with labor issues.

Incorporate more street food. Menuing street food hits on two cylinders: While it introduces trending global flavors, it’s also inherently simple and cheap to produce, Chef Kwiatkowski says. One such example is El Salvadorian pupusas, corn

pancakes with various toppings. Chef Kwiatkowski offers one containing only a 1/2-ounce of ground cooked chorizo and a tablespoon of shredded cheese to boost flavor with limited costs.

Another street food go-to at Michigan State University is the Malaysian street food roti john, which is essentially an omelet sandwich. “It’s quick [and cheap] to put together; we use precooked pork, a hot dog bun and scrambled eggs,” he says.

Make sides a la carte. To make up some margins, Phuc Yea’s Chef Zapata redid his popular short rib dish. Instead of offering a composed dish with ribs and two sides, each item is now sold individually. “That way I could justify the cost of the dish,” he says. Currently, the menu lists smoked short ribs with a notation to add steamed bao buns for $7 and homemade pickles for $7. He says he charges a little less than previously for the short ribs, but he

Chef Cesar Zapata, co-owner of Vietnamese-Cajun fusion concept Phuc Yea, Miami

more than makes up the cost if the guest orders the a la carte sides.

Change certain cooking styles. In a climate of unskilled labor, Chef Zapata has found simpler cooking methods without sacrificing flavor or quality. “Until I train them, [some] cooks don’t know medium rare or medium steak temperatures,” he says. To get around this, Chef Zapata will pre-smoke the steaks and allow staff to sous vide them to medium rare, which takes the guesswork out of the equation. After removing steaks from the bag, cooks season them, sear them in a hot cast iron skillet to get a crust, rest them, then slice.

Chef Zapata notes that smoking chicken, riblets and pork shoulders is less labor-intensive than other cooking methods. “We smoke cook them first, let them rest overnight, cut into chunks the

next day and throw them into the fryer,” he says.

Purchase supplier overages. Often meat purveyors run specials on items not moving through the warehouse fast enough or on various frozen items, Chef Zapata says. He asks for those items. “On a weekly basis, they send me things they need to move or that they have on special. I order them and put them on the menu as a special.”

Double-check all costs. Don’t automatically trust the suppliers’ prices and bookwork. “I check pricing and my invoices almost daily to make sure my purveyors aren’t increasing my prices. Then I call them if they are,” Chef Zapata says. “If there’s no reasonable excuse, because I know how commodities are going in the market, they tell me they are sorry and adjust the price. Or I lock down prices for a month or two. Then I don’t have those issues. You have to be on it.”

In today’s climate, with rising food and labor costs, the key to menu and inventory management remains steadfast on the will and wherewithal to make careful, creative substitutions and eliminations, reduce waste and hold your ground.

Left: Ingredients in Phuc Yea restaurant’s dumplings are cross-utilized with other menu items; Above: The sides served with the short ribs at Miami’s Phuc Yea restaurant are now ordered and charged a la carte.

ACF NORTHWEST INDIANA CHAPTER IN072

By John Bartimole

Founded in 1996, the ACF Northwest Indiana chapter has enjoyed a long run of loyal leaders over the years. Both the current president, ACF Chef Gabriel Rosado, CEC , and current board chair, ACF Chef Jim Galligan , have served multiple terms as president of the chapter — one that was recognized at the 2022 ACF National Convention as the Central Region Chapter of the Year.

Chef Galligan was the chapter’s first president at its founding in 1996 and has been with the chapter for most of its history. “Geographically, we’re located between Chicago, South Bend and Indianapolis,” he says. “At the time, there was no chapter in Northwest Indiana, and we thought it was the right time to start one to promote the chef profession in our area and to attract new people to the industry and to promote the ACF.”

The Northwest Indiana Chapter Officers

President

Chef Gabriel Rosado, CEC

Vice President

Chef David Siano

Vice President Chef Darrick Tucker Jr.

Secretary Chef Carol Baisden

Treasurer Chef Elida Abeyta Sergeant of Arms Chef Ryan C. Smith

Chairman of the Board Chef Jim Galligan

The chapter began with 17 charter members at its inception, and “from that time until today, we’ve always been active,” Chef Galligan says.

ACF Chef Cheryl Molenda , the immediate past board chair, says that a hallmark of the chapter is its sense of camaraderie and the members’ willingness to help each other. “Our strength is our cohesiveness,” she says. “If a chef in our area needs help, we’re there. And it’s not just the senior members who help out — it’s also students from Ivy Tech and the Purdue Northwest University hospitality program, as well as new members — they all help out.”

Today, the chapter has a membership of 30 to 40 chefs, “with a nucleus of 12 to 15 of us,” says Chef Galligan, referring to the chapter’s most core members. Even with a relatively smaller group, the chapter maintains regular activities. Most recently, the chapter began working with Girls on the Run, a nonprofit that seeks to build young girls’ confidence, self-esteem and decision-making skills, and donated hors d’oeuvres for a fundraising event for the organization. Also recently, the Northwest Indiana chapter sponsored a golf outing that raised $3,000 for the chapter, of which $1,000 was donated to World Central Kitchen, an organization that has served 200 million meals to communities impacted by disaster.

In addition, the chapter has a long-standing relationship with Meals on Wheels and supports the organization’s signature Dining with the Chefs gala by creating a five-course dinner prepared by local chefs, restaurants and ACF members. “The chefs come together and work to get each course out to the attending guests — we have a great time doing it!” Chef Molenda says.

The chapter also works closely with Tri Kappa, a Greek service sorority that gives more than $1.5 million annually to a variety of Indiana-based charities. For Tri Kappa’s annual fundraising event, the chapter is often asked to provide the final dessert course —

ACF Chef Gabriel Rosado, CEC, prepares a seafood course at a recent Northwest Indiana chapter event.

some 200 cookies, plus wine — which Chef Molenda says is the most popular part. “For us, it’s all about helping others,” she says. “As I always point out, there’s no ‘I’ in team — or in chef!”

Of course, like virtually every other chapter, this chapter has had its struggles, particularly during the pandemic. “The industry has evolved a bit because of COVID,” Chef Galligan says. “We typically hold two board meetings per month, and Zoom has made those meetings much more accessible for our chapter, which is geographically large.

“It’s also so much harder now for everyone to find cooks, and we all struggle a bit,” he continues. “Back in the day, it seemed to be more old-school, with chefs rising through the ranks and getting promoted. Now, because not as many individuals are going into the culinary field, it’s often that it’s necessary to have chefs skip positions and be promoted more quickly than in the past.”

Chef Molenda agrees. “I know of one instance where a student started as an intern — for all of three days — and then was promoted to sous chef,” she said. “But one thing that hasn’t changed is the passion that chefs have for their work. That remains.”

Due to these swift promotions, chapter members have taken on more responsibility to educate and train their members. “We try to arrange to have speakers or demonstrations for our members,” Chef Molenda says. “Once we restarted face-to-face meetings after [COVID-19 restrictions relaxed], we were also able to bring in purveyors to talk about what they had to offer. They have been very supportive.”

Says Chef Galligan, “Obviously, over the years, we’ve had some downturns, but we remain a very vibrant chapter. I was there at the start of this chapter, and I don’t want it to fail. The ACF offers a lot to our members in terms of networking and promoting the profession, and we just try to supply that information locally.”

That particular mission — promoting the profession — is key as academic institutions struggle to attract students to their culinary programs. Specifically, the culinary programs at Purdue University Northwest and Ivy Tech Community College have seen dwindling numbers recently, especially in light of COVID-19.

“It used to be that Purdue had 30 to 50 students in the program, but now, it’s down to 12 to 15,” Chef

Molenda says. “Ivy Tech is experiencing the same issue. But we continue to offer scholarships that are always available to young culinarians. And we continue to do our best to promote the industry and culinary as a profession.”

Though at press time Chef Galligan was currently serving as president, he would be passing the reins to Chef Rosado in January, but would remain involved as the chapter’s chairman of the board.

“The new board has a lot of great ideas,” Chef Galligan says, “and we have some young energy coming in. I’m looking forward to bigger and better things for the chapter. Chef Gabe is a younger chef, and he will bring some new ideas to the chapter.”

In catching up with Chef Rosado, he says that while he has a plethora of plans for the chapter, the main focus in his mind is simple. “We want to do a meet-and-greet and introduce the ACF and our chapter to as many chefs and professionals as possible,” he says. “We want to show the value and benefits of being an ACF member and certification. We also work on educational seminars and presentations.”

Chef Rosado also says he plans to emphasize the importance of certification. “It’s a real calling card,” he says. “It shows to those who are making hiring decisions that you have the skills and the knowledge to fulfill that position. It’s very important.”

That said, to recruit potential new Northwest Indiana chapter members, “We are really going to push the ACF and the benefits it offers,” Chef Rosado says. “And to emphasize the importance of networking among members.”

Top: Members of the ACF Northwest Indiana chapter and volunteers pose for a pic at the chapter’s 2nd Annual Golf Outing fundraiser held in September 2022 to raise money for World Central Kitchen and scholarships for local students; Bottom from left: ACF Chefs Jim Galligan, Carol Baisden, Gabe Rosado, CEC, Cheryl Molenda, Tom Strzelczyk, Dave Siano and Ryan Smith.

AMERICAN BARBECUE

Columbus, is documented as being the island where that cooking method was first seen and that style of barbecue was eaten — and became an instant favorite of the colonists.

1500S AND EARLIER

There is also belief that cooking food over a raised platform of open fire may have originated in West Africa and was brought to North America, the Caribbean and Latin America by the many millions of enslaved Africans during the Atlantic slave trade. What we do know is when barbecue was first seen, eaten and documented in North America. As these Spanish explorers turned their ships north, they brought this new cooking technique with them. And it arrived in 1540, close to presentday Tupelo, Mississippi. There, explorer Hernando de Soto encountered the Chickasaw tribe; tribe members cooked a feast of pork barbacoa.

This barbecue technique would continue to travel through North America, eventually making its way through the colonies and traveling as far west as Texas. As this cooking style traveled America, it became very diverse. Each region built upon the original Native American, West African and Caribbean barbacoa cooking methods. This resulted in very distinct regional cooking styles based on the wood type, dry rubs, sauces and proteins used.

1600S TO 1700S

When and where barbecue originated is as mysterious as the smoke that swirls around the grill. No one is really sure where the term barbecue originated. A general belief is that Spanish explorers used the word barbacoa to refer to the Caribbean natives’ method of slow cooking meat over a green wooden platform. The island of Hispaniola, named by Christopher

Now that we have a better idea of where and when barbecue made its debut in North America, let’s talk about how barbecue has evolved to that plate of ‘cue we enjoy today. Whole-hog barbecue is thought to have originated in the eastern colonies of Virginia and North Carolina. Here, the technique of basting the cooking meat with a vinegarbased sauce is very similar to the British

A look at the past and present contributions of Africans, Native Americans and other populations to this regional favorite //

By ACF

Chef Jennifer Hill Booker

colonists’ technique of basting roasting meats to keep in the juices. This technique was also in line with the Britons' love of tart sauces, whereas the colonies in South Carolina had a large population of German and French immigrants who preferred to use mustard in their dishes. There, mustard-based barbecue was born. From Carolina barbecue, the trend moved westward, eventually entering Texas. There, German immigrants had the land to cultivate cattle, and they transferred their mustard-based barbecue sauce from pork to beef. Turning back east to Memphis, Tennessee: A sweet tomato-based barbecue sauce was born. Memphis, still home to a popular regional style of barbecue, is right on the Mississippi River, giving its cooks access to molasses and the ability to create that sweet sauce.

1700S AND 1800S

Moving to the Deep South, the colonists, African slaves and the choice of protein — not the sauce — became the driving force in barbecue. You’ll find a culinary tradition of cooking meat low and slow over indirect wood flame with lots of smoke for a very long period of time. The protein in the Deep South is pork. Unlike cattle, which requires larger amounts of feed and care, pigs could be set loose in forests to forage for food on their own. Because they were left in the wild, these pigs were much leaner than if pen-raised, leading to using the “low

Regional styles of barbecue in America have evolved over time (above) (credit; Rafael Hoyos Weht); a smoked brisket (below).

and slow” method of cooking barbecue to tenderize the meat. The resulting flavor is a combination of smoke, meat juices, fat and whatever spices or rub have been added. Fast forward to the 19th century and the culinary technique of “low and slow” is well established in the American South — as is the use of pork as the favorite meat on the grill.

1900S TO TODAY

The beginning of the 20th century saw a mass migration of African Americans from the rural South to northern cities. As African American communities moved, they took their barbecue recipes and techniques with them. As these migrants settled in different regions of America, today’s four major barbecue regions were solidified. Pulled pork sandwiches, smothered in molasses and tomato-based

sauce, are found in Memphis, Tennessee. The state of North Carolina’s claim to fame is smoked whole hogs served with a tart vinegar-based sauce. Kansas City is renowned for dry-rubbed spare ribs, and the great state of Texas has decided that beef —usually brisket — is its specialty. Whatever your choice of barbecue style, there is no denying that the smell of cooking meat —pork or beef — over an open wood fire is one of the best smells in the world.

ACF Chef Jennifer Hill Booker is the owner of the recently opened Bauhaus Biergarten in Springdale, Arkansas, and author of “Field Peas to Foie Gras: Southern Recipes with a French Accent” and “Dinner Déjà Vu: Southern Tonight, French Tomorrow.” She is a James Beard Foundation Impact Fellow and president of the Les Dames d'Escoffier Atlanta chapter. Visit chefjenniferhillbooker.com for recipes.

Dry-rubbed pork ribs (left) (credit: Jon Tyson); ACF Chef Jennifer Hill Booker’s smoked pork shoulder from her new restaurant, Bauhaus Biergarten (credit: Deborah Llewellyn).

Barbecued Coca-Cola Chicken Skewers

By ACF Chef Jennifer Hill Booker

Whether you call it soda or pop, carbonated CocaCola drinks are a favorite pairing with barbecue. I thought, “Why not add the cola to the dish as well as enjoy it with the dish?” The carbonation helps tenderize the chicken, while the cola adds a sweetness and a lovely caramel color, once grilled. You can use whatever brand you like, but since I live in Atlanta, Georgia, I would be remiss if I didn't use Classic Coke in my Barbecued Coca-Cola Chicken Skewers.

Yield: About 12 servings

2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs or breasts

1 tablespoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 large garlic cloves, minced

1 jalapeno, seeded and minced

1 tablespoon sweet paprika

1 tablespoon smoked paprika

1 tablespoon olive or vegetable oil

1/2 cup Coca-Cola

2 cups of your favorite barbecue sauce

6 scallions, white and green parts, chopped, for garnish

1. Preheat grill to 400 degrees F.

2. Soak two dozen wooden skewers in water for at least 30 minutes.

3. Trim chicken of excess fat and cut into 1-inch cubes. Set aside.

4. In a large bowl, combine the salt, pepper, garlic, jalapeno, all of the paprika, oil and cola. Mix with a rubber spatula until the ingredients are blended.

5. Add the cubed chicken and mix until well-coated with the spice mixture.

6. Cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for 30 minutes to 1 hour.

7. Thread the chicken onto the soaked skewers.

8. Place the chicken on the hot grill and cook until browned and slightly charred, about 5 minutes for each side.

9. Brush the top of the kebabs with barbecue sauce; turn and cook until sauce has browned, about 1 minute. Turn and brush the second side with sauce, cooking an additional minute or until chicken has browned.

10. Remove the chicken skewers from grill and let rest for 5 minutes before serving.

11. Garnish with chopped scallions and serve with remaining barbecue sauce on the side.

If there’s one spirit that’s completely underestimated, it’s bourbon. Just ask Paula Jones, an ACF member and self-confessed whiskey nerd, recipe developer, cookbook author and executive bourbon steward based in Raleigh, North Carolina. Jones says this complex spirit is enjoying a major resurgence in popularity, with widespread curiosity about its nuances and uses.

But first, Jones points out a few facts about bourbon. “There are six demands for bourbon classification, other than being produced in the United States,” she says. It must be made from at least 51% corn; be distilled at 160 proof or below; put into a new, charred oak container; put into said container at no more than 125 proof; be bottled at 80 proof or higher; and be free of any added flavorings, colorings or substances, aside from water.

For those who know their bourbon, it has many uses — sweet and savory — that go far beyond cocktails. The challenge is getting to know it. “If you know its flavor, you’ll know what it pairs well with,” Jones says. To best understand its flavor before using it in cooking or desserts, there’s a fourstep tasting process she recommends. In short it’s the four s’: see, smell, sip and savor.

No. 1, to ensure you’re starting with a clean palate, take a good look at your bourbon, taking in the color and viscosity. Step two is to bring it slowly to your nose. “Either put your

By Lauren Kramer

Other than being produced in the U.S., there are six requirements for bourbon classification.

nose all the way in or go back and forth between nostrils, keeping your lips parted to help you take in the aroma,” she says. Step three is to take a small sip, letting it coat your palate before you swallow.

The final step is to consider the notes you’re picking up on to understand the finish. “Where did it burn? Did it give you a Kentucky hug, that warmth in your chest as it went down?” Jones says. Some add a drop of water to their bourbon before consumption, a step that lowers the proof slightly and opens up more subtle nuances in the flavor.

“In the beginning, you might smell just the alcohol, but once you train your nose and your senses, its many nuances start to emerge,” Jones insists. “The more you do it, the better you’re going to get at discerning the notes.”

She recommends using bourbon to create a finishing salt, something that can be done well in advance of a meal and that adds an extra bounce of flavor to a dish. “I suggest using bourbon in a glaze for carrots, in condiments like apple butter and even for braising short ribs. For dessert, bourbon makes a great whiskey caramel sauce as a topping for cheesecake or panna cotta, but it also pairs well with chocolate and fits seamlessly with cakes and puddings.”

Bourbon’s key character is its versatility and its striking ability to bring out the flavor of dishes with which it is paired. “One of the things that make me passionate about bourbon is how unique the final product is, despite them all having the same requirements to be considered a bourbon,” Jones says. “Think of it like chefs having the same set of ingredients, yet their final creations will be distinctive. It’s fascinating.”

BOURBON ON THE MENU

At Pioneer in Cleveland, Chef Matthew Spinner puts his own twist on an elephant ear by embellishing it with powdered sugar and bourbon-salted caramel.

At Helen in Birmingham, Alabama, Chef Rob McDaniel’s Lioni Burrata features bourbonbraised Alabama pears, Benton’s ham, pecans and red vein sorrel.

The Citizen in Alys Beach, Florida, features a smoked beef short rib dish with a sweet and

savory apple bourbon demi-glace over brown butter sage grits and a bed of baby greens.

FireLake Grill House & Cocktail Bar, located in the Radisson Blu Mall of America in Minnesota, where there are more than 230 bourbons and whiskeys on the drink menu, features a maple-infused bread pudding spiked with local cranberries and pecans and topped with a caramelized bourbonbutter sauce.

Bourbon easily pairs with many foods, including apples pictured here, as well as veggies like carrots and savory dishes like short ribs.

Chef Kathleen Vossenberg, CEC, CCE, M.Ed.

By John Bartimole

ACF Chef Kathleen Vossenberg, CEC, CCE, M.Ed. (pictured below), took a road less traveled en route to her culinary career, but one that gave her invaluable experience along the way.

After all, her bachelor’s degree in financial accounting isn’t a typical starting point on a culinary path, and it took her more than a few years to wind her way through the various steps in her life en route to her career as a chef — and as an educator.

“Yes, I’ve had an interesting path through the industry,” says Chef Vossenberg, vice president of academic affairs at Auguste Escoffier School of Culinary Arts headquartered in Boulder, Colorado, and Austin, Texas. “My mother is from a small village in Ireland, where everything is made from scratch. Daily deliveries from the milkman, fresh baked bread — that’s the picture I saw when we visited. Also, my uncle owned a bed-andbreakfast there, and that’s where I began to learn and love the hospitality industry. That combination of incredibly fresh food and excellent hospitality really formed the foundation of my culinary career.”

Today, Chef Vossenberg, who earned a 2022 Cutting Edge Award at ACF’s National Convention for her innovation in culinary education, oversees the academic development of thousands of remote culinary students around the world; Auguste Escoffier offers a robust online degree program.

“We have 8,000 culinary students, taught by 150 chefs remotely,” says Chef Vossenberg, who is based in Augusta, Georgia. “And I think remote learning offers some advantages to our students. The great thing about online learning is that our students have the option to get a recording of the lectures and the demonstrations. So, they can pause it, rewind it … whatever they need to do to learn.”

In order for their work to be evaluated, the students submit a series of photographic evidence of their process — including

pictures of their uniform, their ID, their “mise en place,” sanitation — everything. “And then, they have to write a critical thinking essay where they tell us why they chose that dish and their process,” Chef Vossenberg says. “The chef instructors then use all of that information to reconstruct the cooking process, step-by-step, as evidenced by the pictures and the essay. And by reconstructing the process, they can tell students what they did right, where they could have improved, why certain foods cooked or turned out the way they did.”

Chef Vossenberg says that online culinary education “breaks down specific barriers in culinary education. “Across the country, there’s been a sharp decrease in culinary schools and attendance,” she says. “One of the most formidable barriers for students is location, and the second obstacle is the lack of flexibility in schedule. Typically, traditional culinary students must attend physical, in-building classes, etc., five to six hours a day, five days a week. That is a very difficult ask for working adults. Online learning obviates much of that.”

Another challenge for culinary students today is the cost of education. “At Escoffier, our programs are designed for students to walk away with a very small debt load that is easily serviceable by an entry-level job in the industry,” Chef Vossenberg says. “Our students tend to begin our programs in their late 20s or 30s, and many of them already have some industry experience. In contrast, many of the residential students come to culinary school fresh out of high school and already know they want a career in the field.”

Chef Vossenberg’s current position allows her to combine her love of the culinary arts with a passion

for education — she holds a master’s degree in educational leadership. “My first foray into teaching was in college, when my English teacher asked me to be his teaching assistant,” she says. “That exposed me to grading papers, running classes and workshops, tutoring — all of it. And I did try accounting for a few years after graduation, working in a CPA firm and in real estate. But, to be honest, that career just didn’t get me up in the morning. However, having an accounting degree certainly helps me with the business side of my career.”

Tracy Lorenz, the school’s CEO and president, praised Chef Vossenberg for the success she’s helped bring to Escoffier, saying, “Kathleen’s passion for learning is contagious. She’s a relentless advocate for quality instruction, professional development and nurturing and inspiring culinary minds.”

Chef Vossenberg insists that students graduating from culinary arts programs are in more demand — and are more needed — than ever. “On the other side of the equation, there are eager employers who are worth working for and who will provide their chefs with ongoing education and training and keep them engaged. At the end of the day, when you’re talking about culinary arts, you want graduates to find a career — not a paycheckto-paycheck job. That situation not only stabilizes the person, but her or his family and the community. It’s empowering.”

Still, Chef Vossenberg stresses the importance of balance in life. “My husband is a chef, too, so we trade cooking responsibilities at home,” she says. “We try to emphasize a bit on the plant-forward side of things — more vegetables, more plant-based protein. That’s not only delicious, but it’s better for us overall. But we do have our weekly Fast Food Friday where we let ourselves go just a bit. It’s important for balance.”

"THE GREAT THING ABOUT ONLINE LEARNING IS THAT OUR STUDENTS HAVE THE OPTION TO GET A RECORDING OF THE LECTURES AND THE DEMONSTRATIONS. SO, THEY CAN PAUSE IT, REWIND IT … WHATEVER THEY NEED TO DO TO LEARN."

- CHEF KATHLEEN VOSSENBERG, CEC, CCE, M.ED.

ACF Chef Kathleen Vossenberg, CEC, CCE, M.Ed., receiving the 2022 ACF Eduator of hte Year Award from ACF President Kimberly Brock Brown, CEPC, CCA, AAC, at the National Convention in Las Vegas; Chef Vossenberg, Farmer Lee Jones of The Chef’s Garden and Kirk Bachmann, Boulder campus president and provost, August Escoffier School of Culinary Arts at

the

Boulder campus commencement in November 2022.

ClassicalLongtime ACF Chef John Schopp, CEC, CEPC, CCE, CCA, AAC, a culinary instructor at Virginia Western Community College and co-owner of Center Stage Catering, lists a classic French apple tarte Tatin as one of his favorite desserts. “I love it for its simplicity and elegance,” says Chef Schopp, who first learned how to make the “old-school” pastry while working under his mentor, French Chef Charles C. Semail, in Lexington, Kentucky, during Chef Schopp’s college days. “It’s just butter, sugar, apples and scrap dough,” says Chef Schopp of the dessert’s main ingredients. For a farm-to-table version, he reaches for local Pink Lady apples from Boones Mill, which is a major apple production area in Franklin County, Virginia, where he lives and works.

Modern

For a modern take on apple tarte Tatin , Chef Schopp blurs the lines of sweet and savory, even infusing a little THC in the mix. He pairs a deconstructed tart in the form of a cooked, caramelized and compressed apple, pastry short dough disc, caramel-cream sauce, candied orange and a dusting of dehydrated green apple powder with a simply seared slice of foie gras, set atop an Egyptian flan spiced with star anise, cardamom, allspice, vanilla and orange zest. A certified cannabis sommelier, Chef Schopp enjoys making his own full-spectrum THC extractions to be able to control the dosage, quality and taste preference and to use more of the cannabis plant and its nutrients. For a THC-infused bourbon-vanilla sauce used on the plate, he decarboxylates the cannabis flower in an immersion circulator at 230 degrees F for an hour and a half, and then lets the extraction marinate with 151-proof bourbon and Madagascar vanilla beans for 60 to 90 days. In this dish, he also infuses the flan with some THC in the form of decarboxylated cannabis flower mixed with pure coconut fat that’s again cooked at a low temperature in an immersion circulator. A petite salad of blackberries and fried thyme with a hint of lemon, olive oil, salt and pepper and a dusting of pulverized almond nougat adds another sweet-and-savory note to the composed dessert.

For recipes, visit wearechefs.com

CLASSICAL

CLASSICAL MODERN vs.

Photo credits: Eli Schopp

Things are looking up, but chefs continue to navigate certain challenges

By Howard Riell

The state of the culinary industry heading into 2023 is looking up, with strength continuing to return as the damage caused by the pandemic recedes in the rear-view mirror.

That said, the number of boxes that successful chefs across all segments will need to check in the coming year continues to grow and will include such diverse elements as staffing, corporate culture, labor scarcity, lifestyle, career guidance, food trends, national and regional economic pressures, lingering supply chain difficulties, sustainability and consumers’ emphasis on health and wellness.

One thing the culinary world can look forward to in the new year is growth. In the wake of the COVID-19 pandemic, many operations will continue making up for lost ground. Executive Chef Thaddaeus Smith , director of brand communications at The Sterno Group in Corona, California, says that in 2023, “We are actually returning to pre-pandemic levels of catering activity in many segments of the catering industry. For example, weddings: This segment is seeing one of the biggest years in generations. Social catering is trending toward 2019 numbers. Nonprofit galas are also seeing a strong return.”

ACF

Naples, Florida, says that Southwest Florida continues to see “significant” increases in business. “We found that many people moved to Florida during the pandemic for numerous reasons, and our membership has increased to a maximum capacity.” In addition, those members who were already on hand tend to use the club with greater frequency, Chef Recher says. “All our outlets and events are booked well in advance, and we are working on finding ways to increase our capacity, including adding a new restaurant for the upcoming season.”

Different segments’ fortunes will obviously be shaped by different dynamics, with varying results. For example, Mark Brandau, associate director of research and insights for Datassential, a Chicago-based thirdparty research firm, cites Datassential’s 2022 Healthcare Segment Guide, produced in partnership with the

A spread at Fornino, a wood-fired pizzeria concept with three locations in Brooklyn, New York, owned by Chef Michael Ayoub.

Chef Timothy Recher, CEC, AAC , director of culinary operations at the Quail West Golf and Country Club in

International Foodservice Manufacturers Association, which reported that the market for healthcare facility foodservice was projected to grow 5.1% in 2023. This matched the increase that Datassential estimated for the entire foodservice industry and exceeded what was projected for the quick-service (3.1%), fastcasual (1.5%) and midscale restaurant (0.2%) segments.

“Consumers will face trade-offs in the coming year if high inflation eats through what they managed to save during the pandemic or through gains in wages,” Brandau explains.

Menus Matter

Success in 2023 will require a strong focus on, and decisive action in, a variety of areas, including menu trends (see sidebar). The National Restaurant Association’s What’s Hot 2023 Culinary Forecast points to elevated experiences, comfort fare and menu streamlining as the top three macro trends forecasted for this year. Other emerging trends include charcuterie boards, fried chicken sandwiches at lunchtime, globally inspired salads and Southeast Asian cuisines like Vietnamese, Singaporean and Filipino food.

“Despite the dominance of off-premises restaurant use, pent-up demand for restaurant experiences — socialization, celebration, culinary exploration — is strong,” the report states.

Another phenomenon impacting the industry is the evolution of remote work, which is profoundly disrupting the typical dayparts and effectively dissolving traditional meal and work times, according to the association’s forecast. “With the convenience of accessing any kind of meal or snack through delivery, curbside pickup, counter pickup and drive-thru, any time of day or night, food ordering presents a unique opportunity to entice customers.”

Moreover, as dayparts continue to blur, the proliferation of hand-held items, bowls, sandwiches, wraps and new sandwich carriers like French toast sticks and chicken-andwaffle sandwiches will serve to satisfy growing customer demand for convenience around the clock, the report states.

ACF Chef Ryan Manning, CC , owner of MX Taco in Orlando, agrees that menu and operational streamlining will be of utmost importance, saying that as the restaurant segment heads into 2023, it is struggling with drastic price increases on both food and dry goods. “As we approach this, we are working on streamlining staffing and adjusting the way the plate looks,” he says. This involves shrinking protein sizes and creating an added perceived value in other parts of the plate, as well as increasing pricing.

Food costs, labor costs and finding quality employees will remain major issues, Chef Manning adds, as chefs continue to switch to self-service point-of-sale systems and adjust their staffing matrixes. Chefs will also look at modifying plates and adding value items like starches,

Chef Michael Ayoub, owner of Fornino, in Brooklyn, New York

vegetables, sauces and garnishes to offset the cost of proteins. “I also feel like vegan main plate items are starting to level out in the market rather than being as strong as in years past.”

Chef Manning also expects to see “more impressivelooking” plating from chefs across the world. “You can see this trend on international chefs’ social media accounts,” he says. “For example, I saw a chef reinvent braised red cabbage as a coulis instead of a traditional braised cabbage.”

Plant-based alternatives will continue to proliferate, according to some. ACF Chef Kathleen Vossenberg, CEC, CCE, M.Ed., vice president of academic affairs for the Auguste Escoffier School of Culinary Arts, foresees less of an emphasis on meat substitutes and more on plant-forward dishes that feel familiar to meat eaters. “Think of a succulent risotto made with a broth rich of miso and a variety of wild mushrooms versus an animal-based stock; it’s a classic cooking technique that develops loads of flavor with plantforward ingredients,” she says.

Chef Vossenberg points to Sodexo executives who say they have committed to making 42% of the menus in their university dining segment plant-based by 2035 in an effort to deliver what their guests want and to reduce their carbon footprint. Unfortunately, she laments, many chefs are not well versed in the techniques needed to create a balanced plant-forward meal. “Simply skipping the meat isn’t enough, so the industry as a whole needs more education to effectively deliver on this piece of the menu that the public wants.” The better chefs will continue to experiment and learn, she predicts, “while figuring out this new world.”

Lifestyle Shifts

More than ever, chefs in 2023 will place an emphasis on lifestyle as they design and manage their careers.

“We are now looking at work-life balance more seriously, providing insurance and development programs to create better working environments,” says Chef Tiffany Derry, co-founder of Dallas, Texas-based T2D Concepts, LLC (Roots Southern Table, Roots Chicken Shak), and founder of Tiffany Derry Concepts. “It causes you to take a hard look at your business and adjust for the better. I think we’ll see more creativity and innovation next year.”

Chef Derry feels that a major issue facing the industry going forward will be the fair treatment of its workers. “Restaurant working conditions have long been categorized as grueling — famous for long, hard hours. It’s important that our current generation of restaurant owners and operators step up and take action to reverse the negative connotation associated with hospitality careers.”

Chef Tiffany Derry, co-founder of Dallas, Texas-based T2D Concepts, LLC (above); Chef George Zappas, founder of CookinGenie, a home-chef service (below)

Long-Term Labor

Staffing will continue to prove a challenge — and employers will need to find new ways to innovate.

ACF Chef Ray McCue, CEC, AAC, M.Ed., president of the ACF Rhode Island chapter and associate professor at the College of Food Innovation & Technology at Johnson & Wales University in Providence, Rhode Island, says he is starting to see a “paradigm shift” across the foodservice industry.

Labor issues will remain a problem in the foreseeable future, Chef McCue foresees, and so companies “are continuing to recruit and attract employees in a variety of ways, from sign-on bonuses to free bus passes/transportation to and from work and offering unique work shifts to accommodate other personal demands.”

“Without a doubt,” says Quail West’s Chef Recher, chefs in his segment “have to constantly work on our staffing levels — recruiting and retaining quality culinarians at all levels,” which he calls his first priority. “We have focused on recruiting but also building a culture that inspires and attracts the best people. We have to think differently now. It's not all about dollars and cents, but a true internal community of not just work but belonging and growth. People want to be inspired, treated with respect and feel like they can make a contribution.”

Changing Consumer Desires

Americans will continue to expect more than just great cuisine from their dining choices, seeking things like shared values and memorable experiences.

Inflation, however, is changing how customers spend their restaurant dollars in a greater search for value, and “operators will continue to promote meal deals, family bundles and culinary kits that meet at the intersection of craving and budgetary caution,” the National Restaurant Association’s forecast states. Still, “Even in inflationary times, consumers want to use restaurants. The challenge for operators is to stay interesting and relevant to attract consumers who are looking to experience food they can’t replicate at home.”

“There is this ongoing comparison to what we saw during the economic turn in 2008,” says Chef Marilyn Schlossbach , owner of the Asbury Park, New Jersey-based Marilyn Schlossbach Group, which includes the Langosta Lounge, Pop’s Garage, Asbury Park Yacht Club, Salt Water Cafe, The Whitechapel Projects, Tini’s Fish House and Marilyn Schlossbach Catering and Events. “I find that in times of turmoil we look to comfort and simplicity. People want to feel good about spending their time and money. They want to be taken away from their daily life and find joy and release.” For

that reason, she believes it is important for chefs to provide what she terms “a sense of simple goodness.”

Chef Michael Ayoub, owner of Fornino, a wood-fired pizzeria concept with three locations in Brooklyn, New York, points to organic, plant-based and sustainability as three of the most significant consumer buzzwords for 2023 and beyond. “People are more health-conscious after the pandemic and consider their health more (seriously) than before,” he says. As a result, he feels, the major consumer trends toward health and sustainability will grow stronger. “Chefs and operators concerned about health and sustainability will continue to see how they can make better choices while still making tasty food.”

“Sustainability is another big concern,” Chef Vossenberg says, “from reduced-waste packaging to employee work-life balance to the financial health of restaurants. All of it rolls up under sustainable operations and continues to be a topic that is often talked about throughout the industry.”

Indeed, the National Restaurant Association’s forecast states, “how menus fit with environment, sustainability and governance (ESG) is a key consideration for operators who want to build relevance with customers. ESG extends to packaging, sustainable farming and finding value in — and using up — all foods. And while nutrition and sustainability continue to influence our food system, it’s flavor that sells food and you’ll find myriad instances throughout these lists where globally inspired seasonings and dishes drew votes.”

The Supply Chain Situation

“We fully expect 2023’s food trends to be shaped by the world’s economy and world events,” says Executive Chef Rob Harrison of Agave & Rye in Covington, Kentucky, which operates 13 gourmet taco and spirits restaurants. “If something happens to impact the supply chain, that has a direct impact on our own food supply.”

Chef Harrison feels that chefs “have to be nimble because we are still feeling the effects of supply chain interruptions, especially in terms of produce and equipment.” He and his colleagues anticipate, for example, seeing more breakfast offerings served at dinner. “In that we’re seeing guests crave homestyle dishes and comfort food, breakfast-for-dinner offerings would allow diners to enjoy the nostalgia that comes with menu items like that.”

The coming year will see what Chef George Zappas, founder of CookinGenie, a home-chef service based in Hudson, Ohio, calls “a focus on impact — what does that

look like on a local level up to a global level? Coming out of the pandemic, we have seen a renewing of hyper-local (sourcing). The effect of the supply chain has shown us that we cannot just rely on commodities but need to be more diligent on what we get and how we get it.”

Turning to Technology

The adaptation of technology, from online ordering to reservation apps and QR code menus, will also expand in 2023, chefs say.

“While we still value in-person dining and experiences, the technology that has developed over the years within our industry has been helpful to keep things organized and efficient,” Chef Derry says. “In 2023, I expect to see more and more restaurants implement technology in their business structure to maximize the customer experience and employee productivity.”

Technological solutions are still “in top demand,” Johnson & Wales’ Chef McCue says. “Chefs are constantly being asked to do more with less,” and as a result, are “streamlining menus and utilizing combi equipment and circulators in off hours to get the job done.”

The year ahead, he adds, will also see more unique equipment come into the market that will use artificial intelligence and programs to help make chefs’ lives easier.

Evolving Education

Building for the future will continue to mean upgrading education in the present.

Chef Vossenberg says that in 2023, Escoffier will continue expanding program offerings to better meet the needs of students and employers alike. In addition to traditional degrees and diplomas, “people are seeking more choices in their education options, which can include shorter runways and stackable credentials. Newcomers are seeking an education that allows them a faster entry point to the industry, while established cooks and chefs are seeking additional credentials in areas such as plant-based cuisine and holistic nutrition and wellness to broaden their career prospects.”

The challenges are many, and yet the prospects for the year ahead inspire optimism. Despite the daunting task of dealing with these and a host of other pressures, Chef McCue concludes, “It isn't all doom and gloom. I think the only thing constant is change, and simply we must improvise, adapt and overcome.”

His advice to colleagues for the year ahead is to “be optimistic and take care of yourself first, mentally, physically and emotionally. Know when you need a break and take it. Be willing to lend a hand to a colleague that is in need, and they may just return a favor.”

Clockwise: An interior shot of Agave & Rye, Covington, Kentucky, where Executive Chef Rob Harrison anticipates that guests will continue to crave homestyle dishes and comfort food in 2023; skillet cake on the menu at the restaurant; an interior shot of Agave & Rye’s Troy, Ohio, location.

By the Editor

The National Restaurant Association’s annual What’s Hot Culinary Forecast showcases food and industry trends for the coming year. The association listed 110 items across 11 categories, including dayparts, menu sections, alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages, flavorings, global influences and industry macro-trends. Here’s a snapshot of the report (supported by Nestlé Professional), which is available for download at restaurant.org.

TOP 10 HOT TRENDS BY CATEGORY

1. BREAKFAST: Value meals

2. LUNCH: Chicken sandwiches 3.0 (spicy and sweet-heat fusion flavors, etc.)

3. DINNER: Less-expensive meat cuts (chicken thighs, beef chuck, pork shoulder, etc.)

4. DESSERTS: Alternative sweeteners (maple sugar, coconut sugar, etc.)

5. SNACKS: Elevated bar snacks 6. APPETIZERS & SIDES: Charcuterie boards

7. BEVERAGE, NON-ALCOHOL: Oat, nut or seed milks

8. BEVERAGE, ALCOHOL: Spritzes 9. CONDIMENTS, SAUCES, SPICES & SEASONINGS: Sriracha variations

10. GLOBAL TRENDS: Southeast Asian (Vietnamese, Singaporean, Philippine, etc.)

ONES TO WATCH

These top emerging trends bear scrutiny as they could portend future hot trends. Global influences play a strong role in many of these potential up-and-comers. Diners, especially Gen Zs who are starting into their earning years, like to sample — and post about — breakthrough foods and flavors.

• G lobally inspired sandwiches (Chinese rou jia mo or jianbing, Argentine choripan, etc.)

• New sandwich carriers (paratha, roti, pastry buns, crepes, etc.)

• Amazake (Japanese drink made from fermented rice)

• Alfajor (sweet of almond paste, nuts, breadcrumbs and honey)

• Balkan (Croatian, Bulgarian, Turkish, etc.)

• R aki (Turkish alcohol made of twice-distilled grapes and anise)

• Automation technology (monitoring volume, temperature and time)

• Hawaiian haupia (coconut pudding)

• Huacatay (Peruvian black mint sauce)

• Elevated breakfast bowls (breakfast rice bowls, breakfast pasta bowls, etc.)

COOLING DOWN

• Pickle pizza

• Breakfast salads

• Fried lasagna

• Balsamic cocktails

• Fruit-flavored coffee (e.g., banana, etc.)

• Pickled French fries

• Ranch water

• Upscale pigs-in-a-blanket

• Name-brand snacks (i.e., retail incorporated into restaurant recipes)

• Crudité platters

By Lauren Kramer

If there’s one group that leads and influences the food system, it’s chefs. Consider this role and you realize the immensity of it: As providers of food, our behaviors affect quality of life, quality of our environment as it relates to climate change and the very ability of our species to thrive.

We know that dietary choices affect our health in general, but increasingly, research is linking those choices to our brain health in particular. That’s of note, considering more than six million of all Americans have Alzheimer's disease, according to the Alzheimer’s Association. By 2050, the number of people aged 65 and older with Alzheimer's and dementia is projected to reach 12.7 million — unless scientists develop new cures or approaches to prevention, as reported by the BrightFocus Foundation. Just this year, there will be an estimated 500,000 new cases of Alzheimer’s disease, and that doesn’t include other neurodegenerative diseases like frontotemporal dementia and others.

On a positive note, more studies are showing a strong correlation between plant-based food and healthy brains. Conversely, there’s a correlation between ultra-processed food — that is, food containing preservatives, additives and many ingredients that aren’t food — and cancer,

obesity, diabetes and cardiovascular disease, as well as cognitive issues like dementia.

“Research shows that no matter what kind of ultra-processed food you pick, it’s less healthy than cooking from scratch,” says Dr. Rani Polak , founding director of the CHEF Coaching program at the Spaulding Rehabilitation Hospital’s Institute of Lifestyle Medicine at Harvard Medical School. “If you really want to take care of yourself and your brain, you should cook from scratch as much as possible.”

Chefs today have the power to improve their customers’ cognition and ward off brain diseases, one rethought dish at a time //

Dr. Rani Polak, founding director of the CHEF Coaching program at the Spaulding Rehabilitation Hospital’s Insitute of Lifestyle Medicine at Harvard Medical School

The definition of from-scratch cooking doesn’t necessarily rule out restaurants — rather, it suggests avoiding ultra-processed food in whatever you eat, be it a meal at a fast-food eatery or the processed vegan burger on your processed bun at lunch. “We know that when people eat out, they tend to eat ultra-processed food,” Polak says. “We also know that people consuming [whole, unprocessed] plant-based food have a lower risk of dementia, and that when they make good nutritional choices, they are healthier overall.” That said, chefs are in a unique position to offer their clientele, especially middle-aged and older customers, more clean nutritious choices to ward off long-term diseases of all types.

ACF Chef Barton Seaver, a former restaurant chef, sustainable seafood advocate, author of seven books and the former director of Harvard School of Public Health’s Sustainable Seafood and Health Initiative, agrees. “It’s becoming increasingly obvious that the right choices for our life span are also the right choices for our health span, and that those two meet in a diet rich in plant-based foods,” he says. “What’s really compelling is that the answer to so many of the critical issues we’re looking at — food justice, equity, inclusion, health, nutrition and climate change — is a diet based mostly in plants, reduced consumption of red meat and adequate consumption of seafood.”

Trouble is, chefs in general represent some of the most unhealthy lifestyle choices, he notes, including lack of sleep, long work hours, substance abuse, suboptimal dietary choices and high levels of stress. “We know these are all indicators of negative public health outcomes, so for this industry to take a stand from within and to show that brain health and overall lifestyle health is so fundamentally important to us, makes us the heroes of this conversation,” Chef Seaver says. “We have to put those same solutions on the plates we serve.”

The bottom line, he continues, is that for the first time, “we’re rethinking the purpose of food and realizing it’s quality of life, quality of experience, quality of the environment and health of the communities we live in.”

Clean Cooking

How can chefs make a difference in the lives of the people they feed? There are many ways to be proactive, Polak says.

For starters, “do more cooking from scratch and use less ultra-processed food in your restaurant,” he says. This can be challenging in higher-volume operations, so start with baby steps, he recommends. “Experiment with making a burger yourself, for example, and once that becomes easy and effortless, think about the next change, perhaps the barbecue sauce. It can be an ongoing effort, and it doesn’t need to be one big change at once.”

From there, to make meals even healthier for our brains, consider using less fat and cooking at lower temperatures. “One good example of the importance of cooking temperature is when cooking animal proteins,” Polak says. “Research shows that cooking temperature is correlated with advanced glycation end products, which potentially contribute to inflammation.”

To learn more techniques for cooking highly nutritious meals at different types of operations, Polak encourages chefs to consider participating in the CHEF Coaching program offered at Harvard Medical

"IF YOU REALLY WANT TO TAKE CARE OF YOURSELF AND YOUR BRAIN, YOU SHOULD COOK FROM SCRATCH AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE." -DR. RANI POLAK

School’s Spaulding Rehabilitation Hospital. It’s a program directed to both clinicians and chefs who are passionate about educating patients or the public about expanding home cooking to improve nutrition and overall health. The program also combines culinary training with health and wellness coaching competencies.

Serve More Seafood

“Simply put, put more seafood on more plates more often,” Chef Seaver suggests if there’s a focus on brain health, especially for aging clientele in healthcare, senior living and even country clubs, but also for younger consumers at the college/university level. “We know a reduction in red meat and increased consumption of omega-3-rich seafoods leads to incredible positive public health outcomes,” for example, less burden on healthcare systems and less time taken off of work. Needless to say, seafood is a great way to be able to showcase high-level culinary abilities, he adds, “and shows that I truly care about those I serve.”

Bigger Ain’t Better

It's also prudent to examine your portion sizes. American consumers have long been taught that bigger portions and more food equate with better value, leading to a marked tendency to overeat. Educating diners that less is best won’t be easy, but it’s necessary for healthy living and for a healthy, sustainable environment.

“Anything over four ounces of protein is a waste,” Chef Seaver says unequivocally. “The body simply doesn’t need any more than that. So from a health and environmental sustainability standpoint, let’s give people what they actually need and then wow them with all the vegetables, colors, tastes and textures we come up with to showcase those proteins.” With today’s rising food costs, cutting portions presents a win-win for both operator and consumer.

Re-Centering The Plate

When it comes to wowing your diners, the place to start is the menu construction itself, where the protein is usually emphasized at the expense of everything else. “Re-think this center of the plate,” Chef Seaver says. “Change starts with the very structure of our menus, where proteins are usually listed in 12-point bold typeface and everything else is in 10-point regular typeface. From the very construction of the mental image of the plate, we’ve put protein front and center. But what gives us talent as chefs is not the chicken or salmon, but everything that

"IT’S ESSENTIAL FOR US AS A CULINARY COMMUNITY TO TAKE THE LEAD IN ADDRESSING THIS DRASTIC GAP BETWEEN UNDERSTANDING THE IMPORTANCE OF BRAIN HEALTH AND DIETARY AND LIFESTYLE CHOICES."

- ACF CHEF BARTON SEAVER

ACF Chef Barton Seaver, a former restaurant chef, sustainable seafood advocate, author of seven books and the former director of Harvard School of Public Health’s Sustainable Seafood and Health Initiative

goes with it and showcases what we want to do with food.”

For example, if grilled salmon is the headline and miso-braised Brussels sprouts with crispy chickpeas and Asian herb salad trails off in smaller font, equalize all of it, Chef Seaver suggests. “By changing the structure of how we communicate our dishes, we can achieve decreased food costs, increased healthfulness and nutrition, greater profitability and a greater satisfaction at our role as chefs, both in our creative endeavors and in the lives of the people we serve. Anyone can put Alaskan salmon on a plate, but what makes you, you? Have confidence in that and sell it up!”

Changing how we eat and what ingredients we cook with is far from easy and demands unlearning some bad habits, from recognizing previously excessive portion sizes to not reaching for the easiest solution on the shelf. But it’s direly necessary for our brain health and for the health of our planet, Chef Seaver says.

“Brain health tops the list of the global disease burden but is often not considered because it’s a non-communicable disease, so it doesn’t often play into food policy conversations or decisions,” he says. “But this issue affects us all the way from preconception to the last days of our lives. It’s essential for us as a culinary community to take the lead in addressing this drastic gap between understanding the importance of brain health and dietary and lifestyle choices.”

It’s a huge responsibility with heady implications, and it may seem like a tall order to fulfill when you’re just serving entrees at lunch. “But make no mistake, we are part of this system and we have an opportunity to change it from within,” he says.

Fit For Our Brains

According to Harvard Health Publishing (Harvard Medical School), these are the top foods for improving the health of our brains and warding off neurodegenerative diseases.

• Green, leafy vegetables. Kale, spinach, collards and broccoli have brain-healthy nutrients like vitamin K, lutein, folate and betacarotene shown to help slow cognitive decline.

Fatty fish. Choose varieties low in mercury but high in omega-3 fatty acids, such as salmon, cod, canned light tuna and pollock.

• Berries. Flavonoids found in strawberries, blueberries, raspberries and blackberries are found to help improve memory. One study by researchers at Harvard’s Brigham and Women’s Hospital found that women who consumed two or more servings of strawberries and blueberries each week delayed memory decline by up to two-and-ahalf years.

• Tea and coffee. A 2014 study published in the Journal of Nutrition found that participants with higher caffeine consumption scored better on tests of mental function; another study found that no more than 200 milligrams of caffeine might also help solidify new memories.

• Walnuts. While nuts provide an excellent source of protein and healthy fat, a 2015 study from UCLA linked the consumption of walnuts in particular to improved cognitive test scores. Flaxseeds and chia seeds are also strong sources of plant-based, omega-3-rich fatty acids.

WeAreChefs.com

Senior Living

Chefs must stay creative and flexible to meet the special dietary needs of this group //

By Amanda Baltazar

If you never thought green beans could be controversial, you may never have experienced the world of senior dining.

“Certain people want them cooked and cooked and then cooked some more; others want them fresh; some want them with salt and pepper and some want them without — so how do I offer green beans five ways every day?” says ACF Chef Brian Menzel , executive chef of Friendship Village Senior Living in Chesterfield, Missouri.

As a result, he cooks them multiple ways every day: very soft; just done; and al dente. Each is served with salt and pepper or without, and with butter or without. “Even with all the different ways, it still becomes a challenge,” he says.

Likewise, says Chef Jason Houdek , executive chef with foodservice contractor Cura at Lakewood, a LifeSpire retirement community in Richmond, Virginia, “some people want green beans cooked to death and stewed for hours but others might want them to have some snap, al dente.”

Feeding seniors can be challenging, fun and exciting. Chefs who work in residential facilities tend to offer a variety of comfort foods and more adventurous meals, to satisfy all appetites.

Chef Menzel feeds around 400 seniors for dinner daily, serving five entrees that change every three days: Two of

them are health-focused, such as low-sodium; one is an American classic like pot pie or meatloaf; and then Chef Menzel gets creative with the other two. These might be barbecue-rubbed chicken breast with caramelized onions and Alabama white barbecue and broccoli slaw; or broiled seafood like barramundi scampi-style topped with Russian red crabmeat and garlic butter.

There are several dining rooms at BHI Senior Living communities in Indianapolis, allowing seniors to decide what’s for dinner, says ACF Chef David Kay, regional executive chef, Morrison Living.

When he introduces global foods and flavors, he cooks them as authentically as possible. However, since most food is made-to-order, he can usually tailor it to diners with special needs such as low-sodium diets. “Some of our most adventurous creations include a duck confit ravioli with browned butter sage sauce, a winter herb pesto-crusted lamb loin, BLT fried deviled eggs and a maple bourbon creme brulee,” says Chef Kay.

There are two demographics of residents at Lakewood — the over 80s and under 80s, Chef Houdek says. He tries “to meet the needs of all the residents.” But typically, he says, the older residents opt for comfort foods like fried chicken or pork barbecue.

The under-80-year-old group of residents is more adventurous, and Chef Houdek cooks dishes such as pork belly bao buns; smoked duck breast in port wine sauce; seared scallops with roasted butternut squash puree; and roasted sweet potato, kale and green pea orecchiette.

Tailoring to Customers

Chef Menzel does his best to keep everyone happy. He recently introduced tacos featuring traditional fillings such as braised pork and carne asada, but several customers complained. So to satisfy everyone, he started serving different choices: crispy ground beef tacos in the dining room and the more authentic

At Friendship Village Senior Living in Chsterfield, Missouri, ACF Chef Brian Menzel prepares favorite dishes in different ways to meet the needs of diners who require soft foods or less salt.

Mexican-style carne asada, al pastor and baja fish tacos as specials in the bistro.

Chef Menzel even throws in the occasional plantbased dinner, partly because a lot of residents’ families come to eat with them, though some of the seniors like to eat these foods, too, he adds. Popular dishes he’s made include eggplant lasagna and portabella stack (with grilled yellow squash, zucchini, red bell peppers, spinach and fresh mozzarella, oven-baked and served on top of passata). He also serves a Beyond Burger daily and recently used plant-based Mindful Chik’n.

Plant-based dishes have a place on Lakewood’s menus, too. Chef Houdek recently prepared a roasted acorn squash stuffed with quinoa, goat cheese, red currants and freshly chopped mint and parsley, “which meets the needs of the vegetarian people, of the gluten-free people, of the people who are looking for something that’s not loaded in fats,” he says. And, he points out, these foods also appeal to younger visitors who “don’t want to eat food from the 1950s.”

It’s important to keep things exciting, says Chef Menzel, but he has to gauge how authentic to make foods he introduces. “When I first make something, I try to keep it as authentic as possible, then when I get the feedback from guests, that’s when I start tweaking, so I get more into their comfort zone.”

For example, he’ll change the name of a dish so it’s more familiar; at other times, he cuts back on the spices, such as with Indian curries. In the case of a Balkan cevapi sandwich, he used pita bread instead of Balkan somun bread to make the sandwich smaller and more approachable.

Stepping Up Special Events

Chef Kay loves to create events to keep meals exciting for his residents. In the summer, he hosts cookouts, and yearround he runs events like wine dinners and has a program called Teaching Kitchen, featuring food demos and interactive activities. These sometimes have themes, such as superfoods, featuring ingredients high in antioxidants like acai berries; “Pickling, It’s Kind of a Big Dill;” and introductions to global cuisines to teach recipes like citrus pork carnitas and cinnamon churros from Mexico or cucumber and papaya salad with Mysore chicken from Africa.

Special events are also popular at Lakewood. In September, Chef Houdek orchestrated a 45th anniversary gala, an upscale catering event featuring dishes such as gremolata roasted beef tenderloin and grouper with prosciutto and artichokes.

He also recently ran an Iron Chef competition to engage residents. Chef Houdek and his team from Lakewood competed against another LifeSpire community. Residents were judges, basing opinions on presentation, originality and taste.

Lakewood has an activities department that helps plan many events. There’s dinner and a movie once a month; a fivecourse tasting menu, also monthly; and “we celebrate virtually every holiday or festivity,” says Chef Houdek. Events are an opportunity, he says, “to introduce new types of food.”

Senior diners are an easy bunch to keep happy as long as they’re offered the comfort foods they grew up with, but offering a variety makes things interesting and will expand seniors' palates.

From left: Chef Jason Houdek with Cura at Lakewood, a LifeSpire retirement community in Richmond, Virginia, looks to create nurtitious, balanced dishes that appeal to vegetarian and gluten-free diners and those who “don’t want to eat food from the 1950s”; two dishes by ACF Chef David Kay of Morrison Living.

ATTRACTING TALENT

// By ACF Chef Ashten Garrett

One of the most common issues in the food industry today is staff retention. Phrases such as “no one wants to work right now,” “the students are unmotivated” and “it’s difficult to hire and recruit right now” have circulated widely and are creating an unfortunate strain in many establishments nationwide.

It is no secret — the tremendous turnover rate has plagued the hospitality profession for decades. Keeping staffers engaged or just retaining them at all, especially through busier seasons, has been challenging for kitchen managers. But it’s not all bad news.

On a more positive note, as the past president of ACF’s Young Chefs Club, I’m seeing a new wave of young chefs emerging who are excited to explore new ideas, discover various techniques and network with kindred-minded individuals. With many food trends leaning more toward sustainability, public exclusivity and cultural inclusivity, it is also refreshing to see a dynamic

being built that caters to what matters most to younger generations.

Young chefs today perhaps are more engaged than ever before when it comes to learning about entrepreneurship and alternative culinary career paths and the endless possibilities they can provide. The age-old mantra of “putting your head down and grinding it out” for X number of years in a hot kitchen is fading to give way to a new industry mantra that includes hard work but also “smart work” — chiefly in the embrace of entrepreneurship, social media and technological advancements to bring new ideas to fruition.

While I was in culinary school, every hospitality student had to take a capstone class about the restaurant business and cost control. The point of this class was to provide a real-life perspective into restaurant operations while also learning about entrepreneurship. On my first day, the professor asked our class of 29 students, “How many of you wish to own and operate your own restaurant?” Nearly everyone raised their hands in overzealous excitement. Fast-forward to the last day of class, with now only 18 students, he posed the same question. Only three students raised their hands — this time with uncertainty on their faces. I wondered: How could something that these young chefs were so excited

Ways to think outside of the box and zero in on culture to build your labor force

about and wanted to do for the rest of their lives be an uncertainty now after taking one class? It became evident that it wasn’t about the class or the hospitality system, but what that individual wished to do. And in a lot of ways, we now have many high school and college graduates who have decided to break from the traditional approach of grinding it out for hours in restaurants to instead find other ways to get trained, learn new skills and advance their careers.

That said, I believe the best approach to attracting talent and retention is to first discover what kind of job, life and career younger chefs today really want and to leverage some of the skills they may have that older generations may not. A colleague recently sent me a link for a job posting and asked my opinion about it. The job posting was made by a restaurant in Florida that was listing

a TikTok content creator cook position. What a peculiar job concept, I thought, until I read the description and saw how many applicants already applied — close to 20 and only on the first day. Imaginative, out-of-the-box ideas that benefit both the operation (think of the marketing potential for that restaurant), as well as the cook (who gets to use social media skills), is what’s really going to propel this industry forward.

Clearly then, being a diverse and inclusive kitchen doesn’t have to be confined to race, gender and ethnicity — there is considerable opportunity to include younger chefs with more diverse backgrounds and skill sets. I truly believe that the hospitality profession has to thrive — not just survive. Providing mentorship and establishing a system where young chefs can see themselves grow and find success is paramount for that.

Food Network's “Guy's Grocery Games” winner Ashten Garrett is an ACF chef, food and sustainability activist and the immediate past president of the ACF’s Young Chef's Club. Born and raised in Akron, Ohio, Chef Garrett received his associate and bachelor's degrees from Johnson & Wales University, graduating summa cum laude. After traveling through Italy, Spain and France to cultivate his palate and refine his culinary skills, Chef Garrett is a former chef de partie at the Ritz-Carlton, Cleveland, and currently serves as a culinary assistant chef for ACF Culinary Team USA and the Bocuse d’Or International Culinary Competition, held this month in France. Learn more at chefashten.com

ACF Chef Ashten Garrett preparing dishes at Marriott International in Downtown Cleveland during a photoshoot for his cookbook, “A Few of My Favorites.”

THR O UGH THE LENS

A photo-heavy profile of two legendary chocolatiers and pastry chefs // By ACF Pastry Chef Robert

Wemischner

Of all the ingredients in the sweet kitchen, none compares to chocolate as the ultimate but fickle muse for the pastry chef’s creative side. Pursuing somewhat divergent paths, here are two stories of chocolate’s lure as played out by two masters, ACF Chef Amaury Guichon and Chef Kriss Harvey. It’s arguable that genius in the wider world of the sweet kitchen comes in many different forms, but what geniuses have in common is an unending curiosity about ingredients and their potential.

Amaury Guichon

Born in Cannes, Chef Guichon, founder and CEO of Pastry Academy by Amaury Guichon in Las Vegas,

pursued his basic training for two years in Switzerland and then started working at a young age on the savory side of the kitchen. Following a stint at Lenôtre, a legendary pastry shop in Paris, followed by an executive chef position there and appearances on a television show, he was ready to buff up his resume and moved

From the headline: The Engagement Ring by ACF Chef Amaury Guichon: a cheesecake in disguise with a vanilla streusel base and blueberry-almond cream sponge; Above: The Cheeseboard Game by Chef Guichon with a triple chocolate cake, chocolate chip cookie, dark chocolate ganache and decorative elements crafted in dark and white chocolate.

to Las Vegas. Working for three years at the Aria Resort & Casino, his dream was to offer classes internationally. “I knew then that I had to have my own kitchen to take it to the next level,” Chef Guichon says. Finding the right partner three years ago led to the fulfillment of that dream with the founding of the Pastry Academy, a place where he ties together his love for education with his dedication to perfection.

“I believe in the primacy of flavor,” says Chef Guichon, who uses Cacao Barry chocolate exclusively. “People tend to overcomplicate taste nowadays. Instead, in my pastry work, I like simple tastes, the purity of a fruit’s flavor enhanced through interesting textures. It’s all about the flavor. I design my molded renditions of everyday objects around flavor. And in those, the thickness of the chocolate has to be just right since what’s inside is as, if not more, important as the thrilling accuracy of my renditions, whether a designer handbag, a grandfather’s clock, a wooden soldier, a dragon or a dinosaur.”

Using a large variety of molds, both silicone and polycarbonate, and creating his own, Chef Guichon is only limited by his imagination, reproducing these objects and more (see his weekly videos on Instagram that showcase in breathtaking detail every available skill and technique). “Combining blown sugar and tempered chocolate to create artistic showpieces is the ultimate challenge,” he says. “Every creation has its own difficulty, but in my versions, the dimension of taste is never shortchanged. I used to be trapped in a creative cage but now getting better at what I do, I can edit the videos and through them, open the possibility for others to do part of what I am doing. I always have a project in the works, a new thing every week which leads to sharing my passion with others.”

ACF Chef Amaury Guichon’s Instagram-worthy creations in 2D and 3D format (from top): “Bamboo” made out of a passion fruit and coconut rice pudding, coconut mousse, vanilla mango compote mango and 100% white chocolate; “The Beets by Amaury” with raspberry mousse, yuzu compote, crunchy red sable and beet sponges; and “The Teapot” with a crunchy hazelnut streusel, hazelnut sponge, praline and Earl Grey cremeaux and mousse.

Although he cautions against looking too closely and too often at others’ work, he points to a hero and now a friend, Chef Christophe Michalak , the well-known Parisian pastry chef, formerly head of the sweets kitchen at the Hotel Plaza Athénée, about whom Chef Guichon says: “I owe him a lot. He opened

eyes to

Kriss Harvey

Based in Los Angeles, Chef Harvey began his career in top hotels and restaurants (Charlie Trotter’s in Chicago, for one) after taking classes at the Cacao Barry Chocolate Academy. Europe beckoned, and Chef Harvey got to fine-tune his knowledge of French pastry working with many of the key practitioners of the art. “I am now working with Puratos, who sells Belgium chocolate, and wish to put a stamp of true quality on affordable signature products like malt balls and chocolate-coated pretzels that are slated to sell at Costco.”

Going that route, Chef Harvey is committed to supporting cacao growers at origin to help raise their standard of living, no matter the venue or venture. With this commitment, he is moving confidently toward opening his own artisan store in early to mid-2023 with a well-focused product line using a range of distinctive chocolates. In his view, the use of one brand does not exclude enjoying using another since each has its own signature flavor profiles that lend themselves to different applications. “I love the fact that Felchlin, for one, traces every ingredient they use from milk powder in their milk chocolate to the growing of cane sugar back to the fields where it originates,” he says. “Keeping the new generation of cacao farmers engaged, it is incumbent on us

“I AM CONVINCED THAT THE EVER MORE DISCERNING PUBLIC WILL EMBRACE THE FLAVORS OF PURE CHOCOLATE NOT MERELY BEING BEGUILED BY EYECATCHING COLOR IN THE VISUALS.”

- Chef Kriss Harvey

my

so much and championed me to further my career in many ways.”

as chocolatiers and end users that we ensure that they are being paid fairly for a product in high demand with a limited amount of cultivation worldwide.”

With great prime ingredients as a starting point, Chef Harvey stresses the importance of self-confidence in all who have collaborated with him or now take his popular immersion classes around the country. “I used to tell my staff at the hotels, ‘Be better than the other pastry people working around you, and you will go far,’” he says. “You don’t have to be innovative for innovation’s sake; just be good.”

When speaking about his overall style, he says, “I am a little oldfashioned, and in my bonbons, I veer from the trend of embellishing molded candies with bright colors. I am convinced that the ever more discerning public will embrace the flavors of pure chocolate not merely being beguiled by eye-catching color in the visuals. I contend that a well-made praline based on the proper roast of the nut — either almond or hazelnut — can’t be beat, and there is an audience for that kind of product.”

“I BELIEVE IN THE PRIMACY OF FLAVOR. PEOPLE TEND TO OVERCOMPLICATE TASTE NOWADAYS.”

- ACF Chef Amaury Guichon

Clockwise: Chef Kriss Harvey’s caramelized honeycomb ganache; Swiss Rocher made with whipped almond and hazelnut praline coated in 39% milk chocolate; and a salted butter and redhued vanilla caramel ganache (credit: Jill Paider).

NCR Quiz

January/February 2023

By Robert Penry

The ACF National Qualifying Competitions will be held during which month in 2023?

a. February b. March c. A pril d. May

Which of the following is NOT a way to rein in your labor and food costs by maximizing efficiencies and controlling inventory?

a. Consider cutbacks b. Make smart substitutions c. Avoid supplier overages d. Incorporate more street food

Which of the following is a non-alcoholic beverage trend expected to be hot in 2023?

a. Oat milk b. Nut milk c. Seed milk

d. A ll of the above

Who was the ACF Northwest Indiana chapter’s President when it was first founded in 1996?

a. Chef Cheryl Molenda b. Chef Gabriel Rosada, CEC c. Chef Darrick Tucker Jr. d. Chef Jim Galligan

It is believed that cooking food over a raised platform of open fire may have originated in a. West Africa b. North America c. The Caribbean d. L atin America

All of the following are cooling foodservice trends, EXCEPT:

a. Pickle Pizza b. R anch water c. Comfort fare d. Crudité platters

Which style of BBQ is considered to be North Carolina’s claim to fame?

a. Smoked whole hog b. Dr y rubbed spareribs c. Beef brisket

d. Pulled pork in a tomato and molasses sauce

One of the six demands for bourbon classification (other than it must be produced in the United States) is that it must be distilled at 180 proof or below. a. Tr ue b. Fa lse

Paula Jones suggests using the 4 s’ when tasting bourbon for use in cooking or desserts. The 4 s’ include: a. See, smell, sip, savor b. See, sip, savor, spit c. Select, sample, savor, spit d. See, smell, sample, spit

FireLake Grill House & Cocktail Bar in Minnesota features more than bourbons and whiskeys on their drink menu. a. 200 b. 210 c. 220 d 230

According to a study produced in partnership with Datassential and the International Foodservice Manufacturers Association, the market for healthcare facility foodservice is projected to grow in 2023. a. 4.3% b. 4.8% c. 5.1% d . 5.5%

With evolving education expected in the foodservice industry, ACF Chef Kathleen Vossenberg, CEC, CCE, M.Ed., states the biggest barriers to education include

a. location, lack of flexibility, and cost b. location, preparedness, and cost c. location, cost, and value d. none of the above

See the rest of the questions, finish the quiz and earn four CEHs toward your certification on ACF’s new Online Learning Center at acfchefs.org/olc

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