37 minute read
ACF Chef Profile
from National Culinary Review (Jan/Feb 2023)
by National Culinary Review (an American Culinary Federation publication)
Chef Kathleen Vossenberg, CEC, CCE, M.Ed.
By John Bartimole
ACF Chef Kathleen Vossenberg, CEC, CCE, M.Ed. (pictured below), took a road less traveled en route to her culinary career, but one that gave her invaluable experience along the way.
After all, her bachelor’s degree in financial accounting isn’t a typical starting point on a culinary path, and it took her more than a few years to wind her way through the various steps in her life en route to her career as a chef — and as an educator.
“Yes, I’ve had an interesting path through the industry,” says Chef Vossenberg, vice president of academic affairs at Auguste Escoffier School of Culinary Arts headquartered in Boulder, Colorado, and Austin, Texas. “My mother is from a small village in Ireland, where everything is made from scratch. Daily deliveries from the milkman, fresh baked bread — that’s the picture I saw when we visited. Also, my uncle owned a bed-andbreakfast there, and that’s where I began to learn and love the hospitality industry. That combination of incredibly fresh food and excellent hospitality really formed the foundation of my culinary career.”
Today, Chef Vossenberg, who earned a 2022 Cutting Edge Award at ACF’s National Convention for her innovation in culinary education, oversees the academic development of thousands of remote culinary students around the world; Auguste Escoffier offers a robust online degree program.
“We have 8,000 culinary students, taught by 150 chefs remotely,” says Chef Vossenberg, who is based in Augusta, Georgia. “And I think remote learning offers some advantages to our students. The great thing about online learning is that our students have the option to get a recording of the lectures and the demonstrations. So, they can pause it, rewind it … whatever they need to do to learn.”
In order for their work to be evaluated, the students submit a series of photographic evidence of their process — including pictures of their uniform, their ID, their “mise en place,” sanitation — everything. “And then, they have to write a critical thinking essay where they tell us why they chose that dish and their process,” Chef Vossenberg says. “The chef instructors then use all of that information to reconstruct the cooking process, step-by-step, as evidenced by the pictures and the essay. And by reconstructing the process, they can tell students what they did right, where they could have improved, why certain foods cooked or turned out the way they did.” Chef Vossenberg says that online culinary education “breaks down specific barriers in culinary education. “Across the country, there’s been a sharp decrease in culinary schools and attendance,” she says. “One of the most formidable barriers for students is location, and the second obstacle is the lack of flexibility in schedule. Typically, traditional culinary students must attend physical, in-building classes, etc., five to six hours a day, five days a week. That is a very difficult ask for working adults. Online learning obviates much of that.”
Another challenge for culinary students today is the cost of education. “At Escoffier, our programs are designed for students to walk away with a very small debt load that is easily serviceable by an entry-level job in the industry,” Chef Vossenberg says. “Our students tend to begin our programs in their late 20s or 30s, and many of them already have some industry experience. In contrast, many of the residential students come to culinary school fresh out of high school and already know they want a career in the field.”
Chef Vossenberg’s current position allows her to combine her love of the culinary arts with a passion
for education — she holds a master’s degree in educational leadership. “My first foray into teaching was in college, when my English teacher asked me to be his teaching assistant,” she says. “That exposed me to grading papers, running classes and workshops, tutoring — all of it. And I did try accounting for a few years after graduation, working in a CPA firm and in real estate. But, to be honest, that career just didn’t get me up in the morning. However, having an accounting degree certainly helps me with the business side of my career.”
Tracy Lorenz, the school’s CEO and president, praised Chef Vossenberg for the success she’s helped bring to Escoffier, saying, “Kathleen’s passion for learning is contagious. She’s a relentless advocate for quality instruction, professional development and nurturing and inspiring culinary minds.”
Chef Vossenberg insists that students graduating from culinary arts programs are in more demand — and are more needed — than ever. “On the other side of the equation, there are eager employers who are worth working for and who will provide their chefs with ongoing education and training and keep them engaged. At the end of the day, when you’re talking about culinary arts, you want graduates to find a career — not a paycheckto-paycheck job. That situation not only stabilizes the person, but her or his family and the community. It’s empowering.”
Still, Chef Vossenberg stresses the importance of balance in life. “My husband is a chef, too, so we trade cooking responsibilities at home,” she says. “We try to emphasize a bit on the plant-forward side of things — more vegetables, more plant-based protein. That’s not only delicious, but it’s better for us overall. But we do have our weekly Fast Food Friday where we let ourselves go just a bit. It’s important for balance.”
ACF Chef Kathleen Vossenberg, CEC, CCE, M.Ed., receiving the 2022 ACF Eduator of hte Year Award from ACF President Kimberly Brock Brown, CEPC, CCA, AAC, at the National Convention in Las Vegas; Chef Vossenberg, Farmer Lee Jones of The Chef’s Garden and Kirk Bachmann, Boulder campus president and provost, August Escoffier School of Culinary Arts at the Boulder campus commencement in November 2022.
- CHEF KATHLEEN VOSSENBERG, CEC, CCE, M.ED.
Classical
Longtime ACF Chef John Schopp, CEC, CEPC, CCE, CCA, AAC, a culinary instructor at Virginia Western Community College and co-owner of Center Stage Catering, lists a classic French apple tarte Tatin as one of his favorite desserts. “I love it for its simplicity and elegance,” says Chef Schopp, who first learned how to make the “old-school” pastry while working under his mentor, French Chef Charles C. Semail, in Lexington, Kentucky, during Chef Schopp’s college days. “It’s just butter, sugar, apples and scrap dough,” says Chef Schopp of the dessert’s main ingredients. For a farm-to-table version, he reaches for local Pink Lady apples from Boones Mill, which is a major apple production area in Franklin County, Virginia, where he lives and works.
Modern
For a modern take on apple tarte Tatin, Chef Schopp blurs the lines of sweet and savory, even infusing a little THC in the mix. He pairs a deconstructed tart in the form of a cooked, caramelized and compressed apple, pastry short dough disc, caramel-cream sauce, candied orange and a dusting of dehydrated green apple powder with a simply seared slice of foie gras, set atop an Egyptian flan spiced with star anise, cardamom, allspice, vanilla and orange zest. A certified cannabis sommelier, Chef Schopp enjoys making his own full-spectrum THC extractions to be able to control the dosage, quality and taste preference and to use more of the cannabis plant and its nutrients. For a THC-infused bourbon-vanilla sauce used on the plate, he decarboxylates the cannabis flower in an immersion circulator at 230 degrees F for an hour and a half, and then lets the extraction marinate with 151-proof bourbon and Madagascar vanilla beans for 60 to 90 days. In this dish, he also infuses the flan with some THC in the form of decarboxylated cannabis flower mixed with pure coconut fat that’s again cooked at a low temperature in an immersion circulator. A petite salad of blackberries and fried thyme with a hint of lemon, olive oil, salt and pepper and a dusting of pulverized almond nougat adds another sweet-and-savory note to the composed dessert.
For recipes, visit wearechefs.com.
CLASSICAL
CLASSICAL MODERNvs.
Things are looking up, but chefs continue to navigate certain challenges By Howard Riell
The state of the culinary industry heading into 2023 is looking up, with strength continuing to return as the damage caused by the pandemic recedes in the rear-view mirror.
That said, the number of boxes that successful chefs across all segments will need to check in the coming year continues to grow and will include such diverse elements as staffing, corporate culture, labor scarcity, lifestyle, career guidance, food trends, national and regional economic pressures, lingering supply chain difficulties, sustainability and consumers’ emphasis on health and wellness.
One thing the culinary world can look forward to in the new year is growth. In the wake of the COVID-19 pandemic, many operations will continue making up for lost ground. Executive Chef Thaddaeus Smith, director of brand communications at The Sterno Group in Corona, California, says that in 2023, “We are actually returning to pre-pandemic levels of catering activity in many segments of the catering industry. For example, weddings: This segment is seeing one of the biggest years in generations. Social catering is trending toward 2019 numbers. Nonprofit galas are also seeing a strong return.”
ACF Chef Timothy Recher, CEC,
AAC, director of culinary operations at the Quail West Golf and Country Club in Naples, Florida, says that Southwest Florida continues to see “significant” increases in business. “We found that many people moved to Florida during the pandemic for numerous reasons, and our membership has increased to a maximum capacity.” In addition, those members who were already on hand tend to use the club with greater frequency, Chef Recher says. “All our outlets and events are booked well in advance, and we are working on finding ways to increase our capacity, including adding a new restaurant for the upcoming season.”
Different segments’ fortunes will obviously be shaped by different dynamics, with varying results. For example, Mark Brandau, associate director of research and insights for Datassential, a Chicago-based thirdparty research firm, cites Datassential’s 2022 Healthcare Segment Guide, produced in partnership with the
A spread at Fornino, a wood-fired pizzeria concept with three locations in Brooklyn, New York, owned by Chef Michael Ayoub.
International Foodservice Manufacturers Association, which reported that the market for healthcare facility foodservice was projected to grow 5.1% in 2023. This matched the increase that Datassential estimated for the entire foodservice industry and exceeded what was projected for the quick-service (3.1%), fastcasual (1.5%) and midscale restaurant (0.2%) segments.
“Consumers will face trade-offs in the coming year if high inflation eats through what they managed to save during the pandemic or through gains in wages,” Brandau explains.
Menus Matter
Success in 2023 will require a strong focus on, and decisive action in, a variety of areas, including menu trends (see sidebar). The National Restaurant Association’s What’s Hot 2023 Culinary Forecast points to elevated experiences, comfort fare and menu streamlining as the top three macro trends forecasted for this year. Other emerging trends include charcuterie boards, fried chicken sandwiches at lunchtime, globally inspired salads and Southeast Asian cuisines like Vietnamese, Singaporean and Filipino food.
“Despite the dominance of off-premises restaurant use, pent-up demand for restaurant experiences — socialization, celebration, culinary exploration — is strong,” the report states.
Another phenomenon impacting the industry is the evolution of remote work, which is profoundly disrupting the typical dayparts and effectively dissolving traditional meal and work times, according to the association’s forecast. “With the convenience of accessing any kind of meal or snack through delivery, curbside pickup, counter pickup and drive-thru, any time of day or night, food ordering presents a unique opportunity to entice customers.”
Moreover, as dayparts continue to blur, the proliferation of hand-held items, bowls, sandwiches, wraps and new sandwich carriers like French toast sticks and chicken-andwaffle sandwiches will serve to satisfy growing customer demand for convenience around the clock, the report states.
ACF Chef Ryan Manning, CC, owner of MX Taco in Orlando, agrees that menu and operational streamlining will be of utmost importance, saying that as the restaurant segment heads into 2023, it is struggling with drastic price increases on both food and dry goods. “As we approach this, we are working on streamlining staffing and adjusting the way the plate looks,” he says. This involves shrinking protein sizes and creating an added perceived value in other parts of the plate, as well as increasing pricing.
Food costs, labor costs and finding quality employees will remain major issues, Chef Manning adds, as chefs continue to switch to self-service point-of-sale systems and adjust their staffing matrixes. Chefs will also look at modifying plates and adding value items like starches,
Chef Michael Ayoub, owner of Fornino, in Brooklyn, New York
vegetables, sauces and garnishes to offset the cost of proteins. “I also feel like vegan main plate items are starting to level out in the market rather than being as strong as in years past.”
Chef Manning also expects to see “more impressivelooking” plating from chefs across the world. “You can see this trend on international chefs’ social media accounts,” he says. “For example, I saw a chef reinvent braised red cabbage as a coulis instead of a traditional braised cabbage.”
Plant-based alternatives will continue to proliferate, according to some. ACF Chef Kathleen Vossenberg, CEC, CCE, M.Ed., vice president of academic affairs for the Auguste Escoffier School of Culinary Arts, foresees less of an emphasis on meat substitutes and more on plant-forward dishes that feel familiar to meat eaters. “Think of a succulent risotto made with a broth rich of miso and a variety of wild mushrooms versus an animal-based stock; it’s a classic cooking technique that develops loads of flavor with plantforward ingredients,” she says.
Chef Vossenberg points to Sodexo executives who say they have committed to making 42% of the menus in their university dining segment plant-based by 2035 in an effort to deliver what their guests want and to reduce their carbon footprint. Unfortunately, she laments, many chefs are not well versed in the techniques needed to create a balanced plant-forward meal. “Simply skipping the meat isn’t enough, so the industry as a whole needs more education to effectively deliver on this piece of the menu that the public wants.” The better chefs will continue to experiment and learn, she predicts, “while figuring out this new world.”
Lifestyle Shifts
More than ever, chefs in 2023 will place an emphasis on lifestyle as they design and manage their careers.
“We are now looking at work-life balance more seriously, providing insurance and development programs to create better working environments,” says Chef Tiffany Derry, co-founder of Dallas, Texas-based T2D Concepts, LLC (Roots Southern Table, Roots Chicken Shak), and founder of Tiffany Derry Concepts. “It causes you to take a hard look at your business and adjust for the better. I think we’ll see more creativity and innovation next year.”
Chef Derry feels that a major issue facing the industry going forward will be the fair treatment of its workers. “Restaurant working conditions have long been categorized as grueling — famous for long, hard hours. It’s important that our current generation of restaurant owners and operators step up and take action to reverse the negative connotation associated with hospitality careers.”
Chef Tiffany Derry, co-founder of Dallas, Texas-based T2D Concepts, LLC (above); Chef George Zappas, founder of CookinGenie, a home-chef service (below)
Long-Term Labor
Staffing will continue to prove a challenge — and employers will need to find new ways to innovate.
ACF Chef Ray McCue, CEC, AAC, M.Ed., president of the ACF Rhode Island chapter and associate professor at the College of Food Innovation & Technology at Johnson & Wales University in Providence, Rhode Island, says he is starting to see a “paradigm shift” across the foodservice industry.
Labor issues will remain a problem in the foreseeable future, Chef McCue foresees, and so companies “are continuing to recruit and attract employees in a variety of ways, from sign-on bonuses to free bus passes/transportation to and from work and offering unique work shifts to accommodate other personal demands.”
“Without a doubt,” says Quail West’s Chef Recher, chefs in his segment “have to constantly work on our staffing levels — recruiting and retaining quality culinarians at all levels,” which he calls his first priority. “We have focused on recruiting but also building a culture that inspires and attracts the best people. We have to think differently now. It's not all about dollars and cents, but a true internal community of not just work but belonging and growth. People want to be inspired, treated with respect and feel like they can make a contribution.”
Changing Consumer Desires
Americans will continue to expect more than just great cuisine from their dining choices, seeking things like shared values and memorable experiences.
Inflation, however, is changing how customers spend their restaurant dollars in a greater search for value, and “operators will continue to promote meal deals, family bundles and culinary kits that meet at the intersection of craving and budgetary caution,” the National Restaurant Association’s forecast states. Still, “Even in inflationary times, consumers want to use restaurants. The challenge for operators is to stay interesting and relevant to attract consumers who are looking to experience food they can’t replicate at home.”
“There is this ongoing comparison to what we saw during the economic turn in 2008,” says Chef Marilyn Schlossbach, owner of the Asbury Park, New Jersey-based Marilyn Schlossbach Group, which includes the Langosta Lounge, Pop’s Garage, Asbury Park Yacht Club, Salt Water Cafe, The Whitechapel Projects, Tini’s Fish House and Marilyn Schlossbach Catering and Events. “I find that in times of turmoil we look to comfort and simplicity. People want to feel good about spending their time and money. They want to be taken away from their daily life and find joy and release.” For that reason, she believes it is important for chefs to provide what she terms “a sense of simple goodness.”
Chef Michael Ayoub, owner of Fornino, a wood-fired pizzeria concept with three locations in Brooklyn, New York, points to organic, plant-based and sustainability as three of the most significant consumer buzzwords for 2023 and beyond. “People are more health-conscious after the pandemic and consider their health more (seriously) than before,” he says. As a result, he feels, the major consumer trends toward health and sustainability will grow stronger. “Chefs and operators concerned about health and sustainability will continue to see how they can make better choices while still making tasty food.”
“Sustainability is another big concern,” Chef Vossenberg says, “from reduced-waste packaging to employee work-life balance to the financial health of restaurants. All of it rolls up under sustainable operations and continues to be a topic that is often talked about throughout the industry.”
Indeed, the National Restaurant Association’s forecast states, “how menus fit with environment, sustainability and governance (ESG) is a key consideration for operators who want to build relevance with customers. ESG extends to packaging, sustainable farming and finding value in — and using up — all foods. And while nutrition and sustainability continue to influence our food system, it’s flavor that sells food and you’ll find myriad instances throughout these lists where globally inspired seasonings and dishes drew votes.”
The Supply Chain Situation
“We fully expect 2023’s food trends to be shaped by the world’s economy and world events,” says Executive Chef Rob Harrison of Agave & Rye in Covington, Kentucky, which operates 13 gourmet taco and spirits restaurants. “If something happens to impact the supply chain, that has a direct impact on our own food supply.”
Chef Harrison feels that chefs “have to be nimble because we are still feeling the effects of supply chain interruptions, especially in terms of produce and equipment.” He and his colleagues anticipate, for example, seeing more breakfast offerings served at dinner. “In that we’re seeing guests crave homestyle dishes and comfort food, breakfast-for-dinner offerings would allow diners to enjoy the nostalgia that comes with menu items like that.”
The coming year will see what Chef George Zappas, founder of CookinGenie, a home-chef service based in Hudson, Ohio, calls “a focus on impact — what does that
Clockwise: An interior shot of Agave & Rye, Covington, Kentucky, where Executive Chef Rob Harrison anticipates that guests will continue to crave homestyle dishes and comfort food in 2023; skillet cake on the menu at the restaurant; an interior shot of Agave & Rye’s Troy, Ohio, location.
look like on a local level up to a global level? Coming out of the pandemic, we have seen a renewing of hyper-local (sourcing). The effect of the supply chain has shown us that we cannot just rely on commodities but need to be more diligent on what we get and how we get it.”
Turning to Technology
The adaptation of technology, from online ordering to reservation apps and QR code menus, will also expand in 2023, chefs say.
“While we still value in-person dining and experiences, the technology that has developed over the years within our industry has been helpful to keep things organized and efficient,” Chef Derry says. “In 2023, I expect to see more and more restaurants implement technology in their business structure to maximize the customer experience and employee productivity.”
Technological solutions are still “in top demand,” Johnson & Wales’ Chef McCue says. “Chefs are constantly being asked to do more with less,” and as a result, are “streamlining menus and utilizing combi equipment and circulators in off hours to get the job done.”
The year ahead, he adds, will also see more unique equipment come into the market that will use artificial intelligence and programs to help make chefs’ lives easier.
Evolving Education
Building for the future will continue to mean upgrading education in the present.
Chef Vossenberg says that in 2023, Escoffier will continue expanding program offerings to better meet the needs of students and employers alike. In addition to traditional degrees and diplomas, “people are seeking more choices in their education options, which can include shorter runways and stackable credentials. Newcomers are seeking an education that allows them a faster entry point to the industry, while established cooks and chefs are seeking additional credentials in areas such as plant-based cuisine and holistic nutrition and wellness to broaden their career prospects.”
The challenges are many, and yet the prospects for the year ahead inspire optimism. Despite the daunting task of dealing with these and a host of other pressures, Chef McCue concludes, “It isn't all doom and gloom. I think the only thing constant is change, and simply we must improvise, adapt and overcome.”
His advice to colleagues for the year ahead is to “be optimistic and take care of yourself first, mentally, physically and emotionally. Know when you need a break and take it. Be willing to lend a hand to a colleague that is in need, and they may just return a favor.”
WHAT'S HOT IN 2023
By the Editor
The National Restaurant Association’s annual What’s Hot Culinary Forecast showcases food and industry trends for the coming year. The association listed 110 items across 11 categories, including dayparts, menu sections, alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages, flavorings, global influences and industry macro-trends. Here’s a snapshot of the report (supported by Nestlé Professional), which is available for download at restaurant.org.
TOP 10 HOT TRENDS FOR 2023
1. Experiences/local culture and community 2. Fried chicken sandwiches & Chicken sandwiches 3.0 (e.g., spicy and sweetheat fusion flavors on chicken, etc.) 3. Charcuterie boards 4. Comfort fare 5. Flatbread sandwiches/healthier wraps 6. Menu streamlining 7. Sriracha variations 8. Globally inspired salads 9. Zero waste/Sustainability/Upcycled foods 10. Southeast Asian cuisines (Vietnamese,
Singaporean, Philippine, etc.)
TOP 10 HOT TRENDS BY CATEGORY
1. BREAKFAST: Value meals 2. LUNCH: Chicken sandwiches 3.0 (spicy and sweet-heat fusion flavors, etc.) 3. DINNER: Less-expensive meat cuts (chicken thighs, beef chuck, pork shoulder, etc.) 4. DESSERTS: Alternative sweeteners (maple sugar, coconut sugar, etc.) 5. SNACKS: Elevated bar snacks 6. APPETIZERS & SIDES: Charcuterie boards 7. BEVERAGE, NON-ALCOHOL: Oat, nut or seed milks 8. BEVERAGE, ALCOHOL: Spritzes 9. CONDIMENTS, SAUCES, SPICES &
SEASONINGS: Sriracha variations 10. GLOBAL TRENDS: Southeast Asian (Vietnamese,
Singaporean, Philippine, etc.)
ONES TO WATCH
These top emerging trends bear scrutiny as they could portend future hot trends. Global influences play a strong role in many of these potential up-and-comers. Diners, especially Gen Zs who are starting into their earning years, like to sample — and post about — breakthrough foods and flavors. • Globally inspired sandwiches (Chinese rou jia mo or jianbing, Argentine choripan, etc.) • New sandwich carriers (paratha, roti, pastry buns, crepes, etc.) • Amazake (Japanese drink made from fermented rice) • Alfajor (sweet of almond paste, nuts, breadcrumbs and honey) • Balkan (Croatian, Bulgarian, Turkish, etc.) • Raki (Turkish alcohol made of twice-distilled grapes and anise) • Automation technology (monitoring volume, temperature and time) • Hawaiian haupia (coconut pudding) • Huacatay (Peruvian black mint sauce) • Elevated breakfast bowls (breakfast rice bowls, breakfast pasta bowls, etc.)
COOLING DOWN
• Pickle pizza • Breakfast salads • Fried lasagna • Balsamic cocktails • Fruit-flavored coffee (e.g., banana, etc.) • Pickled French fries • Ranch water • Upscale pigs-in-a-blanket • Name-brand snacks (i.e., retail incorporated into restaurant recipes) • Crudité platters
Chefs today have the power to improve their customers’ cognition and ward off brain diseases, one rethought dish at a time // By Lauren Kramer
If there’s one group that leads and influences the food system, it’s chefs. Consider this role and you realize the immensity of it: As providers of food, our behaviors affect quality of life, quality of our environment as it relates to climate change and the very ability of our species to thrive.
We know that dietary choices affect our health in general, but increasingly, research is linking those choices to our brain health in particular. That’s of note, considering more than six million of all Americans have Alzheimer's disease, according to the Alzheimer’s Association. By 2050, the number of people aged 65 and older with Alzheimer's and dementia is projected to reach 12.7 million — unless scientists develop new cures or approaches to prevention, as reported by the BrightFocus Foundation. Just this year, there will be an estimated 500,000 new cases of Alzheimer’s disease, and that doesn’t include other neurodegenerative diseases like frontotemporal dementia and others.
On a positive note, more studies are showing a strong correlation between plant-based food and healthy brains. Conversely, there’s a correlation between ultra-processed food — that is, food containing preservatives, additives and many ingredients that aren’t food — and cancer, obesity, diabetes and cardiovascular disease, as well as cognitive issues like dementia.
“Research shows that no matter what kind of ultra-processed food you pick, it’s less healthy than cooking from scratch,” says Dr. Rani Polak, founding director of the CHEF Coaching program at the Spaulding Rehabilitation Hospital’s Institute of Lifestyle Medicine at Harvard Medical School. “If you really want to take care of yourself and your brain, you should cook from scratch as much as possible.”
Dr. Rani Polak, founding director of the CHEF Coaching program at the Spaulding Rehabilitation Hospital’s Insitute of Lifestyle Medicine at Harvard Medical School
The definition of from-scratch cooking doesn’t necessarily rule out restaurants — rather, it suggests avoiding ultra-processed food in whatever you eat, be it a meal at a fast-food eatery or the processed vegan burger on your processed bun at lunch. “We know that when people eat out, they tend to eat ultra-processed food,” Polak says. “We also know that people consuming [whole, unprocessed] plant-based food have a lower risk of dementia, and that when they make good nutritional choices, they are healthier overall.” That said, chefs are in a unique position to offer their clientele, especially middle-aged and older customers, more clean nutritious choices to ward off long-term diseases of all types.
ACF Chef Barton Seaver, a former restaurant chef, sustainable seafood advocate, author of seven books and the former director of Harvard School of Public Health’s Sustainable Seafood and Health Initiative, agrees. “It’s becoming increasingly obvious that the right choices for our life span are also the right choices for our health span, and that those two meet in a diet rich in plant-based foods,” he says. “What’s really compelling is that the answer to so many of the critical issues we’re looking at — food justice, equity, inclusion, health, nutrition and climate change — is a diet based mostly in plants, reduced consumption of red meat and adequate consumption of seafood.”
Trouble is, chefs in general represent some of the most unhealthy lifestyle choices, he notes, including lack of sleep, long work hours, substance abuse, suboptimal dietary choices and high levels of stress. “We know these are all indicators of negative public health outcomes, so for this industry to take a stand from within and to show that brain health and overall lifestyle health is so fundamentally important to us, makes us the heroes of this conversation,” Chef Seaver says. “We have to put those same solutions on the plates we serve.”
The bottom line, he continues, is that for the first time, “we’re rethinking the purpose of food and realizing it’s quality of life, quality of experience, quality of the environment and health of the communities we live in.”
Clean Cooking
How can chefs make a difference in the lives of the people they feed? There are many ways to be proactive, Polak says.
For starters, “do more cooking from scratch and use less ultra-processed food in your restaurant,” he says. This can be challenging in higher-volume operations, so start with baby steps, he recommends. “Experiment with making a burger yourself, for example, and once that becomes easy and effortless, think about the next change, perhaps the barbecue sauce. It can be an ongoing effort, and it doesn’t need to be one big change at once.”
From there, to make meals even healthier for our brains, consider using less fat and cooking at lower temperatures. “One good example of the importance of cooking temperature is when cooking animal proteins,” Polak says. “Research shows that cooking temperature is correlated with advanced glycation end products, which potentially contribute to inflammation.”
To learn more techniques for cooking highly nutritious meals at different types of operations, Polak encourages chefs to consider participating in the CHEF Coaching program offered at Harvard Medical
ACF Chef Barton Seaver, a former restaurant chef, sustainable seafood advocate, author of seven books and the former director of Harvard School of Public Health’s Sustainable Seafood and Health Initiative
"IT’S ESSENTIAL FOR US AS A CULINARY COMMUNITY TO TAKE THE LEAD IN ADDRESSING THIS DRASTIC GAP BETWEEN UNDERSTANDING THE IMPORTANCE OF BRAIN HEALTH AND DIETARY AND LIFESTYLE CHOICES." - ACF CHEF BARTON SEAVER
School’s Spaulding Rehabilitation Hospital. It’s a program directed to both clinicians and chefs who are passionate about educating patients or the public about expanding home cooking to improve nutrition and overall health. The program also combines culinary training with health and wellness coaching competencies.
Serve More Seafood
“Simply put, put more seafood on more plates more often,” Chef Seaver suggests if there’s a focus on brain health, especially for aging clientele in healthcare, senior living and even country clubs, but also for younger consumers at the college/university level. “We know a reduction in red meat and increased consumption of omega-3-rich seafoods leads to incredible positive public health outcomes,” for example, less burden on healthcare systems and less time taken off of work. Needless to say, seafood is a great way to be able to showcase high-level culinary abilities, he adds, “and shows that I truly care about those I serve.”
Bigger Ain’t Better
It's also prudent to examine your portion sizes. American consumers have long been taught that bigger portions and more food equate with better value, leading to a marked tendency to overeat. Educating diners that less is best won’t be easy, but it’s necessary for healthy living and for a healthy, sustainable environment.
“Anything over four ounces of protein is a waste,” Chef
Seaver says unequivocally. “The body simply doesn’t need any more than that. So from a health and environmental sustainability standpoint, let’s give people what they actually need and then wow them with all the vegetables, colors, tastes and textures we come up with to showcase those proteins.” With today’s rising food costs, cutting portions presents a win-win for both operator and consumer.
Re-Centering The Plate When it comes to wowing your diners, the place to start is the menu construction itself, where the protein is usually emphasized at the expense of everything else. “Re-think this center of the plate,” Chef Seaver says. “Change starts with the very structure of our menus, where proteins are usually listed in 12-point bold typeface and everything else is in 10-point regular typeface.
From the very construction of the mental image of the plate, we’ve put protein front and center. But what gives us talent as chefs is not the chicken or salmon, but everything that
goes with it and showcases what we want to do with food.”
For example, if grilled salmon is the headline and miso-braised Brussels sprouts with crispy chickpeas and Asian herb salad trails off in smaller font, equalize all of it, Chef Seaver suggests. “By changing the structure of how we communicate our dishes, we can achieve decreased food costs, increased healthfulness and nutrition, greater profitability and a greater satisfaction at our role as chefs, both in our creative endeavors and in the lives of the people we serve. Anyone can put Alaskan salmon on a plate, but what makes you, you? Have confidence in that and sell it up!”
Changing how we eat and what ingredients we cook with is far from easy and demands unlearning some bad habits, from recognizing previously excessive portion sizes to not reaching for the easiest solution on the shelf. But it’s direly necessary for our brain health and for the health of our planet, Chef Seaver says.
“Brain health tops the list of the global disease burden but is often not considered because it’s a non-communicable disease, so it doesn’t often play into food policy conversations or decisions,” he says. “But this issue affects us all the way from preconception to the last days of our lives. It’s essential for us as a culinary community to take the lead in addressing this drastic gap between understanding the importance of brain health and dietary and lifestyle choices.”
It’s a huge responsibility with heady implications, and it may seem like a tall order to fulfill when you’re just serving entrees at lunch. “But make no mistake, we are part of this system and we have an opportunity to change it from within,” he says.
Fit For Our Brains
According to Harvard Health Publishing (Harvard Medical School), these are the top foods for improving the health of our brains and warding off neurodegenerative diseases. • Green, leafy vegetables. Kale, spinach, collards and broccoli have brain-healthy nutrients like vitamin K, lutein, folate and betacarotene shown to help slow cognitive decline. • Fatty fish. Choose varieties low in mercury but high in omega-3 fatty acids, such as salmon, cod, canned light tuna and pollock. • Berries. Flavonoids found in strawberries, blueberries, raspberries and blackberries are found to help improve memory. One study by researchers at Harvard’s Brigham and Women’s Hospital found that women who consumed two or more servings of strawberries and blueberries each week delayed memory decline by up to two-and-ahalf years. • Tea and coffee. A 2014 study published in the Journal of Nutrition found that participants with higher caffeine consumption scored better on tests of mental function; another study found that no more than 200 milligrams of caffeine might also help solidify new memories. • Walnuts. While nuts provide an excellent source of protein and healthy fat, a 2015 study from UCLA linked the consumption of walnuts in particular to improved cognitive test scores. Flaxseeds and chia seeds are also strong sources of plant-based, omega-3-rich fatty acids. For recipes with these ingredients, visit WeAreChefs.com.
Senior Living
Chefs must stay creative and flexible to meet the special dietary needs of this group // By Amanda Baltazar
If you never thought green beans could be controversial, you may never have experienced the world of senior dining.
“Certain people want them cooked and cooked and then cooked some more; others want them fresh; some want them with salt and pepper and some want them without — so how do I offer green beans five ways every day?” says ACF Chef Brian Menzel, executive chef of Friendship Village Senior Living in Chesterfield, Missouri.
As a result, he cooks them multiple ways every day: very soft; just done; and al dente. Each is served with salt and pepper or without, and with butter or without. “Even with all the different ways, it still becomes a challenge,” he says.
Likewise, says Chef Jason Houdek, executive chef with foodservice contractor Cura at Lakewood, a LifeSpire retirement community in Richmond, Virginia, “some people want green beans cooked to death and stewed for hours but others might want them to have some snap, al dente.”
Feeding seniors can be challenging, fun and exciting. Chefs who work in residential facilities tend to offer a variety of comfort foods and more adventurous meals, to satisfy all appetites.
Chef Menzel feeds around 400 seniors for dinner daily, serving five entrees that change every three days: Two of them are health-focused, such as low-sodium; one is an American classic like pot pie or meatloaf; and then Chef Menzel gets creative with the other two. These might be barbecue-rubbed chicken breast with caramelized onions and Alabama white barbecue and broccoli slaw; or broiled seafood like barramundi scampi-style topped with Russian red crabmeat and garlic butter.
There are several dining rooms at BHI Senior Living communities in Indianapolis, allowing seniors to decide what’s for dinner, says ACF Chef David Kay, regional executive chef, Morrison Living.
When he introduces global foods and flavors, he cooks them as authentically as possible. However, since most food is made-to-order, he can usually tailor it to diners with special needs such as low-sodium diets. “Some of our most adventurous creations include a duck confit ravioli with browned butter sage sauce, a winter herb pesto-crusted lamb loin, BLT fried deviled eggs and a maple bourbon creme brulee,” says Chef Kay.
There are two demographics of residents at Lakewood — the over 80s and under 80s, Chef Houdek says. He tries “to meet the needs of all the residents.” But typically, he says, the older residents opt for comfort foods like fried chicken or pork barbecue.
The under-80-year-old group of residents is more adventurous, and Chef Houdek cooks dishes such as pork belly bao buns; smoked duck breast in port wine sauce; seared scallops with roasted butternut squash puree; and roasted sweet potato, kale and green pea orecchiette.
At Friendship Village Senior Living in Chsterfield, Missouri, ACF Chef Brian Menzel prepares favorite dishes in different ways to meet the needs of diners who require soft foods or less salt.
Tailoring to Customers
Chef Menzel does his best to keep everyone happy. He recently introduced tacos featuring traditional fillings such as braised pork and carne asada, but several customers complained. So to satisfy everyone, he started serving different choices: crispy ground beef tacos in the dining room and the more authentic
From left: Chef Jason Houdek with Cura at Lakewood, a LifeSpire retirement community in Richmond, Virginia, looks to create nurtitious, balanced dishes that appeal to vegetarian and gluten-free diners and those who “don’t want to eat food from the 1950s”; two dishes by ACF Chef David Kay of Morrison Living.
Mexican-style carne asada, al pastor and baja fish tacos as specials in the bistro.
Chef Menzel even throws in the occasional plantbased dinner, partly because a lot of residents’ families come to eat with them, though some of the seniors like to eat these foods, too, he adds. Popular dishes he’s made include eggplant lasagna and portabella stack (with grilled yellow squash, zucchini, red bell peppers, spinach and fresh mozzarella, oven-baked and served on top of passata). He also serves a Beyond Burger daily and recently used plant-based Mindful Chik’n.
Plant-based dishes have a place on Lakewood’s menus, too. Chef Houdek recently prepared a roasted acorn squash stuffed with quinoa, goat cheese, red currants and freshly chopped mint and parsley, “which meets the needs of the vegetarian people, of the gluten-free people, of the people who are looking for something that’s not loaded in fats,” he says. And, he points out, these foods also appeal to younger visitors who “don’t want to eat food from the 1950s.”
It’s important to keep things exciting, says Chef Menzel, but he has to gauge how authentic to make foods he introduces. “When I first make something, I try to keep it as authentic as possible, then when I get the feedback from guests, that’s when I start tweaking, so I get more into their comfort zone.”
For example, he’ll change the name of a dish so it’s more familiar; at other times, he cuts back on the spices, such as with Indian curries. In the case of a Balkan cevapi sandwich, he used pita bread instead of Balkan somun bread to make the sandwich smaller and more approachable.
Stepping Up Special Events
Chef Kay loves to create events to keep meals exciting for his residents. In the summer, he hosts cookouts, and yearround he runs events like wine dinners and has a program called Teaching Kitchen, featuring food demos and interactive activities. These sometimes have themes, such as superfoods, featuring ingredients high in antioxidants like acai berries; “Pickling, It’s Kind of a Big Dill;” and introductions to global cuisines to teach recipes like citrus pork carnitas and cinnamon churros from Mexico or cucumber and papaya salad with Mysore chicken from Africa.
Special events are also popular at Lakewood. In September, Chef Houdek orchestrated a 45th anniversary gala, an upscale catering event featuring dishes such as gremolata roasted beef tenderloin and grouper with prosciutto and artichokes.
He also recently ran an Iron Chef competition to engage residents. Chef Houdek and his team from Lakewood competed against another LifeSpire community. Residents were judges, basing opinions on presentation, originality and taste.
Lakewood has an activities department that helps plan many events. There’s dinner and a movie once a month; a fivecourse tasting menu, also monthly; and “we celebrate virtually every holiday or festivity,” says Chef Houdek. Events are an opportunity, he says, “to introduce new types of food.”
Senior diners are an easy bunch to keep happy as long as they’re offered the comfort foods they grew up with, but offering a variety makes things interesting and will expand seniors' palates.
