Chapter Close-Up

ACF NORTHWEST INDIANA CHAPTER IN072

By John Bartimole

The Northwest Indiana Chapter Officers President

Chef Gabriel Rosado, CEC

Vice President

Chef David Siano

Vice President

Chef Darrick Tucker Jr.

Secretary

Chef Carol Baisden

Treasurer

Chef Elida Abeyta

Sergeant of Arms

Chef Ryan C. Smith

Chairman of the Board

Chef Jim Galligan

Founded in 1996, the ACF Northwest Indiana chapter has enjoyed a long ACF Chef Cheryl Molenda, the immediate past board chair, says that run of loyal leaders over the years. Both a hallmark of the chapter is its sense the current president, ACF Chef Gabriel of camaraderie and the members’ Rosado, CEC, and current board chair, willingness to help each other. “Our ACF Chef Jim Galligan, have served strength is our cohesiveness,” she says. “If multiple terms as president of the chapter a chef in our area needs help, we’re there. — one that was recognized at the 2022 And it’s not just the senior members ACF National Convention as the Central who help out — it’s also students from Region Chapter of the Year. Ivy Tech and the Purdue Northwest

Chef Galligan was the chapter’s first University hospitality program, as well as president at its founding in 1996 and has new members — they all help out.” been with the chapter for most of its history. Today, the chapter has a membership “Geographically, we’re located between of 30 to 40 chefs, “with a nucleus of Chicago, South Bend and Indianapolis,” he 12 to 15 of us,” says Chef Galligan, says. “At the time, there was no chapter in referring to the chapter’s most core Northwest Indiana, and we thought it was members. Even with a relatively smaller the right time to start one to promote the chef group, the chapter maintains regular profession in our area and to attract new people activities. Most recently, the chapter to the industry and to promote the ACF.” The chapter began with 17 charter members at its inception, and “from that time until today, we’ve always been active,” Chef Galligan says. began working with Girls on the Run, a nonprofit that seeks to build young girls’ confidence, self-esteem and decision-making skills, and donated hors d’oeuvres for a fundraising event for the organization. Also recently, the Northwest Indiana chapter sponsored a golf outing that raised $3,000 for the chapter, of which $1,000 was donated to World Central Kitchen, an organization that has served 200 million meals to communities impacted by disaster. In addition, the chapter has a long-standing relationship with Meals on Wheels and supports the organization’s signature Dining with the Chefs gala by creating a five-course dinner prepared by local chefs, restaurants and ACF members. “The chefs come together and work to get each course out to the attending guests — we have a great time doing it!” Chef Molenda says. The chapter also works closely with Tri Kappa, a Greek service sorority that gives more than $1.5 million annually to a variety of Indiana-based charities. ACF Chef Gabriel Rosado, CEC, prepares a seafood course at a recent For Tri Kappa’s annual fundraising event, the chapter Northwest Indiana chapter event. is often asked to provide the final dessert course —

some 200 cookies, plus wine — which Chef Molenda says is the most popular part. “For us, it’s all about helping others,” she says. “As I always point out, there’s no ‘I’ in team — or in chef!”

Of course, like virtually every other chapter, this chapter has had its struggles, particularly during the pandemic. “The industry has evolved a bit because of COVID,” Chef Galligan says. “We typically hold two board meetings per month, and Zoom has made those meetings much more accessible for our chapter, which is geographically large.

“It’s also so much harder now for everyone to find cooks, and we all struggle a bit,” he continues. “Back in the day, it seemed to be more old-school, with chefs rising through the ranks and getting promoted. Now, because not as many individuals are going into the culinary field, it’s often that it’s necessary to have chefs skip positions and be promoted more quickly than in the past.”

Chef Molenda agrees. “I know of one instance where a student started as an intern — for all of three days — and then was promoted to sous chef,” she said. “But one thing that hasn’t changed is the passion that chefs have for their work. That remains.”

Due to these swift promotions, chapter members have taken on more responsibility to educate and train their members. “We try to arrange to have speakers or demonstrations for our members,” Chef Molenda says. “Once we restarted face-to-face meetings after [COVID-19 restrictions relaxed], we were also able to bring in purveyors to talk about what they had to offer. They have been very supportive.”

Says Chef Galligan, “Obviously, over the years, we’ve had some downturns, but we remain a very vibrant chapter. I was there at the start of this chapter, and I don’t want it to fail. The ACF offers a lot to our members in terms of networking and promoting the profession, and we just try to supply that information locally.”

That particular mission — promoting the profession — is key as academic institutions struggle to attract students to their culinary programs. Specifically, the culinary programs at Purdue University Northwest and Ivy Tech Community College have seen dwindling numbers recently, especially in light of COVID-19.

“It used to be that Purdue had 30 to 50 students in the program, but now, it’s down to 12 to 15,” Chef

Top: Members of the ACF Northwest Indiana chapter and volunteers pose for a pic at the chapter’s 2nd Annual Golf Outing fundraiser held in September 2022 to raise money for World Central Kitchen and scholarships for local students; Bottom from left: ACF Chefs Jim Galligan, Carol Baisden, Gabe Rosado, CEC, Cheryl Molenda, Tom Strzelczyk, Dave Siano and Ryan Smith.

Molenda says. “Ivy Tech is experiencing the same issue. But we continue to offer scholarships that are always available to young culinarians. And we continue to do our best to promote the industry and culinary as a profession.”

Though at press time Chef Galligan was currently serving as president, he would be passing the reins to Chef Rosado in January, but would remain involved as the chapter’s chairman of the board.

“The new board has a lot of great ideas,” Chef Galligan says, “and we have some young energy coming in. I’m looking forward to bigger and better things for the chapter. Chef Gabe is a younger chef, and he will bring some new ideas to the chapter.”

In catching up with Chef Rosado, he says that while he has a plethora of plans for the chapter, the main focus in his mind is simple. “We want to do a meet-and-greet and introduce the ACF and our chapter to as many chefs and professionals as possible,” he says. “We want to show the value and benefits of being an ACF member and certification. We also work on educational seminars and presentations.”

Chef Rosado also says he plans to emphasize the importance of certification. “It’s a real calling card,” he says. “It shows to those who are making hiring decisions that you have the skills and the knowledge to fulfill that position. It’s very important.”

That said, to recruit potential new Northwest Indiana chapter members, “We are really going to push the ACF and the benefits it offers,” Chef Rosado says. “And to emphasize the importance of networking among members.”

AMERICAN BARBECUE AMERICAN BARBECUE

A look at the past and present contributions of Africans, Native Americans and other populations to this regional favorite // By ACF Chef Jennifer Hill Booker

When and where barbecue originated is as mysterious as the smoke that swirls around the grill. No one is really sure where the term barbecue originated. A general belief is that Spanish explorers used the word barbacoa to refer to the Caribbean natives’ method of slow cooking meat over a green wooden platform. The island of Hispaniola, named by Christopher Columbus, is documented as being the island where that cooking method was first seen and that style of barbecue was eaten — and became an instant favorite of the colonists.

1500S AND EARLIER

There is also belief that cooking food over a raised platform of open fire may have originated in West Africa and was brought to North America, the Caribbean and Latin America by the many millions of enslaved Africans during the Atlantic slave trade. What we do know is when barbecue was first seen, eaten and documented in North America. As these Spanish explorers turned their ships north, they brought this new cooking technique with them. And it arrived in 1540, close to presentday Tupelo, Mississippi. There, explorer Hernando de Soto encountered the Chickasaw tribe; tribe members cooked a feast of pork barbacoa.

This barbecue technique would continue to travel through North America, eventually making its way through the colonies and traveling as far west as Texas. As this cooking style traveled America, it became very diverse. Each region built upon the original Native American, West African and Caribbean barbacoa cooking methods. This resulted in very distinct regional cooking styles based on the wood type, dry rubs, sauces and proteins used.

1600S TO 1700S

Now that we have a better idea of where and when barbecue made its debut in North America, let’s talk about how barbecue has evolved to that plate of ‘cue we enjoy today. Whole-hog barbecue is thought to have originated in the eastern colonies of Virginia and North Carolina. Here, the technique of basting the cooking meat with a vinegarbased sauce is very similar to the British

colonists’ technique of basting roasting meats to keep in the juices. This technique was also in line with the Britons' love of tart sauces, whereas the colonies in South Carolina had a large population of German and French immigrants who preferred to use mustard in their dishes. There, mustard-based barbecue was born. From Carolina barbecue, the trend moved westward, eventually entering Texas. There, German immigrants had the land to cultivate cattle, and they transferred their mustard-based barbecue sauce from pork to beef. Turning back east to Memphis, Tennessee: A sweet tomato-based barbecue sauce was born. Memphis, still home to a popular regional style of barbecue, is right on the Mississippi River, giving its cooks access to molasses and the ability to create that sweet sauce.

1700S AND 1800S

Moving to the Deep South, the colonists, African slaves and the choice of protein — not the sauce — became the driving force in barbecue. You’ll find a culinary tradition of cooking meat low and slow over indirect wood flame with lots of smoke for a very long period of time. The protein in the Deep South is pork. Unlike cattle, which requires larger amounts of feed and care, pigs could be set loose in forests to forage for food on their own. Because they were left in the wild, these pigs were much leaner than if pen-raised, leading to using the “low

Regional styles of barbecue in America have evolved over time (above) (credit; Rafael Hoyos Weht); a smoked brisket (below).

Dry-rubbed pork ribs (left) (credit: Jon Tyson); ACF Chef Jennifer Hill Booker’s smoked pork shoulder from her new restaurant, Bauhaus Biergarten (credit: Deborah Llewellyn).

and slow” method of cooking barbecue to tenderize the meat. The resulting flavor is a combination of smoke, meat juices, fat and whatever spices or rub have been added. Fast forward to the 19th century and the culinary technique of “low and slow” is well established in the American South — as is the use of pork as the favorite meat on the grill.

1900S TO TODAY

The beginning of the 20th century saw a mass migration of African Americans from the rural South to northern cities. As African American communities moved, they took their barbecue recipes and techniques with them. As these migrants settled in different regions of America, today’s four major barbecue regions were solidified. Pulled pork sandwiches, smothered in molasses and tomato-based sauce, are found in Memphis, Tennessee. The state of North Carolina’s claim to fame is smoked whole hogs served with a tart vinegar-based sauce. Kansas City is renowned for dry-rubbed spare ribs, and the great state of Texas has decided that beef —usually brisket — is its specialty. Whatever your choice of barbecue style, there is no denying that the smell of cooking meat —pork or beef — over an open wood fire is one of the best smells in the world.

ACF Chef Jennifer Hill Booker is the owner of the recently opened Bauhaus Biergarten in Springdale, Arkansas, and author of “Field Peas to Foie Gras: Southern Recipes with a French Accent” and “Dinner Déjà Vu: Southern Tonight, French Tomorrow.” She is a James Beard Foundation Impact Fellow and president of the Les Dames d'Escoffier Atlanta chapter. Visit chefjenniferhillbooker.com for recipes.

Barbecued Coca-Cola Chicken Skewers

By ACF Chef Jennifer Hill Booker

Whether you call it soda or pop, carbonated CocaCola drinks are a favorite pairing with barbecue. I thought, “Why not add the cola to the dish as well as enjoy it with the dish?” The carbonation helps tenderize the chicken, while the cola adds a sweetness and a lovely caramel color, once grilled. You can use whatever brand you like, but since I live in Atlanta, Georgia, I would be remiss if I didn't use Classic Coke in my Barbecued Coca-Cola Chicken Skewers.

Yield: About 12 servings

2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs or breasts 1 tablespoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 3 large garlic cloves, minced 1 jalapeno, seeded and minced 1 tablespoon sweet paprika 1 tablespoon smoked paprika 1 tablespoon olive or vegetable oil 1/2 cup Coca-Cola 2 cups of your favorite barbecue sauce 6 scallions, white and green parts, chopped, for garnish

1. Preheat grill to 400 degrees F. 2. Soak two dozen wooden skewers in water for at least 30 minutes. 3. Trim chicken of excess fat and cut into 1-inch cubes. Set aside. 4. In a large bowl, combine the salt, pepper, garlic, jalapeno, all of the paprika, oil and cola. Mix with a rubber spatula until the ingredients are blended. 5. Add the cubed chicken and mix until well-coated with the spice mixture. 6. Cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for 30 minutes to 1 hour. 7. Thread the chicken onto the soaked skewers. 8. Place the chicken on the hot grill and cook until browned and slightly charred, about 5 minutes for each side. 9. Brush the top of the kebabs with barbecue sauce; turn and cook until sauce has browned, about 1 minute. Turn and brush the second side with sauce, cooking an additional minute or until chicken has browned. 10. Remove the chicken skewers from grill and let rest for 5 minutes before serving. 11. Garnish with chopped scallions and serve with remaining barbecue sauce on the side.

Reach for this wintertime-friendly spirit to boost flavor in both savory and sweet dishes By Lauren Kramer

If there’s one spirit that’s completely underestimated, it’s bourbon. Just ask Paula Jones, an ACF member and self-confessed whiskey nerd, recipe developer, cookbook author and executive bourbon steward based in Raleigh, North Carolina. Jones says this complex spirit is enjoying a major resurgence in popularity, with widespread curiosity about its nuances and uses.

But first, Jones points out a few facts about bourbon. “There are six demands for bourbon classification, other than being produced in the United States,” she says. It must be made from at least 51% corn; be distilled at 160 proof or below; put into a new, charred oak container; put into said container at no more than 125 proof; be bottled at 80 proof or higher; and be free of any added flavorings, colorings or substances, aside from water. Other than being produced in the U.S., there are six requirements for bourbon classification.

For those who know their bourbon, it has many uses — sweet and savory — that go far beyond cocktails. The challenge is getting to know it. “If you know its flavor, you’ll know what it pairs well with,” Jones says. To best understand its flavor before using it in cooking or desserts, there’s a fourstep tasting process she recommends. In short it’s the four s’: see, smell, sip and savor.

No. 1, to ensure you’re starting with a clean palate, take a good look at your bourbon, taking in the color and viscosity. Step two is to bring it slowly to your nose. “Either put your

nose all the way in or go back and forth between nostrils, keeping your lips parted to help you take in the aroma,” she says. Step three is to take a small sip, letting it coat your palate before you swallow.

The final step is to consider the notes you’re picking up on to understand the finish. “Where did it burn? Did it give you a Kentucky hug, that warmth in your chest as it went down?” Jones says. Some add a drop of water to their bourbon before consumption, a step that lowers the proof slightly and opens up more subtle nuances in the flavor.

“In the beginning, you might smell just the alcohol, but once you train your nose and your senses, its many nuances start to emerge,” Jones insists. “The more you do it, the better you’re going to get at discerning the notes.”

She recommends using bourbon to create a finishing salt, something that can be done well in advance of a meal and that adds an extra bounce of flavor to a dish. “I suggest using bourbon in a glaze for carrots, in condiments like apple butter and even for braising short ribs. For dessert, bourbon makes a great whiskey caramel sauce as a topping for cheesecake or panna cotta, but it also pairs well with chocolate and fits seamlessly with cakes and puddings.”

Bourbon’s key character is its versatility and its striking ability to bring out the flavor of dishes with which it is paired. “One of the things that make me passionate about bourbon is how unique the final product is, despite them all having the same requirements to be considered a bourbon,” Jones says. “Think of it like chefs having the same set of ingredients, yet their final creations will be distinctive. It’s fascinating.”

Bourbon easily pairs with many foods, including apples pictured here, as well as veggies like carrots and savory dishes like short ribs.

BOURBON ON THE MENU

At Pioneer in Cleveland, Chef Matthew Spinner puts his own twist on an elephant ear by embellishing it with powdered sugar and bourbon-salted caramel. At Helen in Birmingham, Alabama, Chef Rob McDaniel’s Lioni Burrata features bourbonbraised Alabama pears, Benton’s ham, pecans and red vein sorrel. The Citizen in Alys Beach, Florida, features a smoked beef short rib dish with a sweet and savory apple bourbon demi-glace over brown butter sage grits and a bed of baby greens. FireLake Grill House & Cocktail Bar, located in the Radisson Blu Mall of America in Minnesota, where there are more than 230 bourbons and whiskeys on the drink menu, features a maple-infused bread pudding spiked with local cranberries and pecans and topped with a caramelized bourbonbutter sauce.