The praliné Stéphane Leroux
Contents A passion for the profession reveals the praliné (preface by Eddy Van Belle) 6 Preface by Philippe Urraca 7 Foreword by Stéphane Leroux 8 When the product and the perception glorify one another 9 The history and definition of praliné and gianduja 10 Praliné, pralin and praline… 12 Raw materials 14 Making praliné and all its variants 20 Making gianduja 28
PRALINÉ IN CLASSIC PATISSERIE Pistachio-Morello cherry, almond-apricot and hazelnut macaroons Baba-boule au praliné noisette-orange-passion Paris-Brest choux Boule merveilleuse Millefeuilles praliné Fraisier à la pistache Dacquoise pistache-cassis-framboise Opérette noisette-chocolat Opérette pistache-framboise Javanais orange-praliné Succès aux noisettes Mystères and cylindres meringue au praliné
32 38 42 46 50 52 56 60 62 64 66 68
TARTS AND CAKES Pear, saffran, praliné and chocolate tart Chocolate and praliné tarts Lemon and praliné tartlets Apple and praliné tart Pistachio and raspberry Breton sablé tart Pistachio and apricot Chiboust Pear and praliné Tart Pistachio and grapefruit tart Cassolette praliné Galette feuilletée au gianduja
74 76 80 84 88 90 92 96 98 102
Lemon and hazelnut praliné cake Apricot and hazelnut gianduja cake Chocolate and gianduja cake Croissants (pistachio bread and cerf-volant aux noisettes) Feuilletés noisette Brioches (pralin balls and speculoos balls)
104 106 108 110 114 116
DESSERTS Praliné, lemon and almond dessert Coffee and hazelnut dessert Délice dessert Gianduja and lemon dessert Pistachio, apricot and almond dessert Pistachio and pineapple dessert Praliné, hazelnut and chocolate dessert Autumn leaves with hazelnuts Individual gianduja and orange dessert Rum-raisin and hazelnut praliné sultanas Praliné and prune dessert Individual raspberry, praliné and hazelnut dessert Individual praliné and passion fruit dessert Tea-flavored gianduja and ginger dessert Chocolate, pistachio and Morello cherry dessert
122 124 128 132 136 140 144 148 150 154 158 162 164 168 172
CHOCOLATE AND CONFECTIONERY Praliné with cocoa bean nibs Coconut, passion fruit and mango praliné Crunchy pistachio, blackcurrant and raspberry praliné Hazelnut praliné and almond praliné Pistachio, raspberry and cinnamon praliné Tricolor praliné Calamansi praliné Honey, walnut, peanut and caramel praliné Coriander praliné Cumin praliné
178 180 182 184 186 188 190 192 194 196
Lavender praliné 198 Rosemary praliné tablets 202 Parmesan praliné 204 Pink peppercorn praliné 206 Praliné and raspberry ganache for molding 208 Praliné ganache for framing 210 Star anise praliné matchsticks 212 Caramel hazelnut squares 214 Tiger-striped chicory praliné squares 216 Manons longs 218 Sesame praliné leaves 220 Yuzu praliné truffles 222 Pastis and moka praliné 224 Flaky praliné with cooked sugar 228 Pink pralines 232 Gianduja candy and marzipan ravioli candy (raspberry and hazelnut) 234
snacks AND BARS Puffed rice, orange and hazelnut bars Gianduja caramel crumble Gianduja banana crumble Hazelnut dark and milk chocolate praliné rocks Lemon and almond puffed rice rocks Speculoos praliné triangles Blackberry and vanilla praliné marshmallows Chocolate-hazelnut spread Nougatine hazelnut lollipops Gianduja raisin bars Hazelnut bars Caramel orange fingers
242 244 246 248 250 252 254 258 260 262 264 266
FOURS SECS AND MOELLEUX Gianduja, orange and yuzu waves Hazelnut and gianduja cookies Peanut macaroons Meringuettes Gianduja coffee macaroons Almond and hazelnut sablés Gianduja and raspberry sablés Tuiles praliné-noisette Tuiles praliné-pistache S-Shaped sablés
270 272 274 276 278 280 282 284 286 288
BASIC RECIPES Light syrup for soaking Strong coffee for opéra syrup Candied lemon zest Candied ginger Raisins in rum Orange paste Poached pears Pralin Almond sponge Joconde almond sponge Almond, hazelnut and coconut Dacquoise Pistachio Dacquoise Hazelnut meringues Crumble base Inverted puff pastry Crème anglaise Butter cream Custard cream Base for custard cream for mousseline Glazing and applications White glaze Milk chocolate glaze Dark praliné glaze Glossy dark glaze Cocoa jelly
292 292 292 293 293 293 294 296 297 297 298 299 299 300 302 303 303 303 303 304 306 306 307 307 307
CHOCOLATE DECORATION Colored cocoa butter Spirals Two-tone chocolate tablets Colored chocolate tablets Marbled squares Plastic wrap with pleated effect Chocolate waves Perforates circles
310 312 313 314 315 316 317 318
Praliné, pralin and praline… Praliné is a confectionery product, generally used as a filling, made of roasted and ground mixture of 50% almonds and/or hazelnuts and 50% sugar. Pralin, used very frequently in patisserie and confectionery, is made from caramelized hazelnuts. Praline was invented in 1912 and given that name by Jean Neuhaus, a Belgian confectioner. "Praslines" or "pralines" de Montargis were created in 1636 by Clément Jaluzot, who subsequently founded a confectionery business in Montargis. In 1903, Léon Mazet acquired the recipe for the praline owned by the store “Au Duc de Praslin” and established the standard for it. La praline rose (the pink praline) is a specialty of the region of Lyon and Dauphiné; it is used as a decoration for tarts or brioches. It is also used to make praluline, created by Auguste Pralus, Meilleur Ouvrier de France in 1955, Roanne, France.
Making praliné and its variants Depending on the dried fruit used, their quality, percentage or their condition (with or without skin), the praliné obtained will be lighter or darker and the strength of the flavor will vary too. The same is true for the sugar (caramelized or not, cold or hot preparation), these criteria can also vary. Nevertheless, the proportions of sugar to dried fruit will often be the same, 50/50 or 60% dried fruit and 40% sugar. The higher the proportion of dried fruit, the more fluid the mass will be because it will contain more free fat. According to the machines used during its manufacture, the praliné may also vary, especially with regard to the fineness of its texture. It is thus up to each individual to create their own criteria regarding flavor and texture for each particular usage. The following recipes have been developed in accordance with different methods of working, in order to feature the range of variants.
Hazelnut praliné 50% This working method, known as rubbing to achieve crystallizing of the sugar around the nuts allows for roasting the hazelnuts or almonds at the same time as the sugar is being caramelized. However, for larger quantities, it is preferable to work with the appropriate mechanical equipment in order not to burn the fruit and to obtain more consistency. The fruit can also be pre-roasted before the rubbing in. You will thus obtain a praliné with a stronger roasted note. Recipe • 500 g granulated sugar • 100 g water • 500 g skinless hazelnuts Mix the sugar and the water together in a saucepan and make a syrup at 118°C/244°F. Remove from the heat and pour this syrup onto the slightly roasted hazelnuts and stir until the mixture has a grainy texture. Return to the heat and caramelize the sugar continuing to stir with a spatula. Pour the mass onto a marble slab and allow to cool. After it has cooled down, grind it in a food processor cutter until a paste has been obtained, without overheating the mass (50°C/122°F maximum). Pour this mass into a stainless steel container and allow to cool. Then grind it for a second time in the food processor cutter using the grinding device to ensure that the mass is smooth. Store the mass in an airtight container at a temperature of 17°C/65°F. 20
Javanais orange-praliné (for a frame measuring 27 x 37 cm)
• Joconde almond biscuit (see basic recipe p. 297) • Crispy hazelnut praliné • Orange butter cream • Orange syrup
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Crispy hazelnut praliné
Assembly and finish
• • • • •
In a frame measuring 27 x 37 cm, place eight successive layers as follows:
Mix all the ingredients together and filter before use.
35 g butter 80 g Lait Selection (34%) chocolate 140 g hazelnut praliné 50% 140 g hazelnut paste 140 g feuilletine
• 1 Joconde almond biscuit coated with dark chocolate and soaked with 100 g orange syrup • 530 g crispy hazelnut praliné • 1 Joconde almond biscuit soaked with 100 g orange syrup • 150 g orange butter cream • 1 Joconde almond biscuit soaked with 100 g orange syrup • 150 g orange butter cream • 1 almond Joconde biscuit soaked with 100 g orange syrup • 150 g orange butter cream
Melt the milk chocolate with the butter, then mix with the hazelnut praliné and the hazelnut paste. Lastly, add the feuilletine and use immediately. Orange butter cream • • • •
175 g syrup (see basic recipe p. 292) 75 g orange juice 15 g Cointreau 50 g water
400 g neutral butter cream (see basic recipe p. 303) 130 g orange paste (see basic recipe p. 293) 35 g butter 20 g Cointreau
When it has all been assembled, cover with plastic wrap and keep in a cool place at 4°C/39°F or in the freezer for it to set. Using a knife with a serrated blade, cut squares of the gateau and decorate with a square the same size of very fine marbled dark chocolate and of very fine milk chocolate (see decoration techniques p. 317) .
Soften the neutral butter cream together with the butter and add the orange paste and Cointreau, making a smooth mixture. Whip together in the mixer with the whisk until it is frothy and use immediately.
Gianduja coffee macaroons COMPOSITION
COFFEE FLAVORED CARAMEL
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Mocha macaroons Coffee flavored caramel Coffee gianduja Noir Superieur (60%) chocolate for coating
150 g granulated sugar 200 g crème fraîche with 35% fat content + 5 g soluble coffee 50 g glucose 50 g soft butter
MOCHA MACAROONS • • • • • • •
Dry caramelize the sugar and stop the caramelization by adding the glucose and crème fraîche mixed with the soluble coffee. Cook again up to 105°C/220°F and leave to cool down to 35°C/95°F before blending in the butter using a hand mixer. Set aside in a cool place covered with plastic wrap.
300 g blanched almonds 300 g icing sugar 100 g tempered egg whites (1) 200 g granulated sugar 60 g water 100 g tempered egg whites (2) 6 g soluble coffee powder
Mix equal quantities of blanched almonds and icing sugar in a food processor cutter. Sieve and leave to dry on a marble slab. Make an Italian meringue with the first 100 g of egg whites (1) and 200 g of sugar mixed with water and cooked at 120°C/250°F. When the meringue is quite smooth but not completely cold, mix it with the almonds and icing sugar and the second 100 g of egg whites (2) mixed with the coffee powder. Mix everything together using a spatula until the mixture is smooth and homogenous but not too slack. Pipe onto an oval shape onto a silicone sheet and bake immediately in a ventilation oven at 220°C/430°F initially, reducing the temperature to 180°C/356°F, with an open damper.
• 500 g hazelnut gianduja (see recipe p. 28) • 10 g soluble coffee Soften the gianduja without melting it and add the very fine soluble coffee powder. Cream the mixture using a spatula and pipe a crown on the macaroons. Sandwich some coffee caramel between two macaroon shells. Leave to crystallize at 17°C/63°F and place the macaroon on a chocolate disk that has not yet crystallized, in order to make the coating easier. Allow to crystallize once more and coat with Noir Superieur (60%) chocolate, using the blower on the maximum setting. Store at 17°C/63°F after coating.