August 2020 48° North.pdf

34 S ECOND GROWTH WILDERNESS 41 P ORTLAND AREA CRUISING

AUGUST 2020

30 I SLAND LIFE 2020

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AUGUST 2020

AUGUST 2020

FEATURES 26 Opportunity Knocks

Post-cruising miracle! Receiving a serendipitous boat-home.

By Dana Greyson

48º NORTH

A potpourri of perspectives about San Juans cruising this year.

By Joe Cline

COLUMBIA RIVER SPOTLIGHT 34 Second Growth Wilderness

Exploring the Lower Columbia River Estuary by small boat.

By Bruce Bateau

38 Unearthing a Racing Mecca

The genesis of small boat racing at Cascade Locks.

By Chuck Skewes

41 Portland Area Cruising

The Rose City and beyond have lots to offer visiting cruisers.

By Andy Cross

COLUMNS 18 Artist’s View - Secrets of the Salish Sea Canary Rockfish: Once endangered, now plentiful.

By Larry Eifert

20 Three Sheets Northwest

Working aboard has never been more common or feasible.

By Deborah Bach

22 Lessons Learned Cruising

Remote education is spreading rapidly, and most of it is great.

By Behan and Jamie Gifford

24 How-To: Get the Anchor Ready

Understanding and maintaining anchoring gear is essential.

By Alex and Jack Wilken

RACING 44 The Salish 200

Born over beers (of course), this new event had intrigue galore!

By Stephanie Campbell

Background photo courtesy of Bruce Bateau.

CONTENTS

30 Island Life 2020

ON THE COVER, Majestic Mount Hood provides a stunning backdrop for the floating homes and hundreds of boats in Portland, Oregon. Photo by Paula Cobleigh.

5

AUGUST 2020

06

Editor

THANKSGIVING IN AUGUST, WITH COMPROMISES

Volume XL, Number 1, August 2020

Now that the weather gods have turned summer on for good here in the Pacific Northwest, the floodgates are pretty much wide open for water-borne enthusiasts.

Nary a patch of water seems untouched by activity: speed boats paint wakes on Lake Washington, sailboats and trawlers grace Puget Sound before the majestic mountainous backdrop, and the full spectrum of paddle, power, and sail craft move (or drift) on the urban waters of Lake Union in Seattle, the Columbia and Willamette Rivers in Portland, and in Vancouver and Victoria Harbours.

Of course, not everyone is boating; and those that are on the water aren’t doing everything the way it always has been. It can be difficult not to focus on the things that cannot happen in 2020. In the past few weeks, the racing community has felt the nostalgic pangs of the first summer in decades without a Race Week event. We had to call off our 48° North Cruising Rally, and cruisers across the region can only daydream about immersing themselves in the exquisite surroundings on the other side of the presently-closed international border between the United States and Canada. The scores of rag-tag sailors that love Lake Union’s Duck Dodge are adjusting to a summer that, thus far, hasn’t had an official race or raft-up (and won’t until the elusive Phase 3)—the famous 48° North Tropical Night tiki raft will sadly not be making an appearance this year.

While all of that is true and much of it is disappointing, boaters everywhere are feeling grateful. In the present pandemic reality, there’s almost no one that’s got it better than us. Whether your craft is large or small, propelled by power, wind, or paddle—we can mostly do what we love. Our marine businesses are thriving, with boats, gear, and services seemingly selling at record pace. And while the array of cruising opportunities is limited, it’s still embarrassingly rich for PNWers. Cruisers are enjoying the impetus to explore different routes, often discovering unexpected beauty and wildness.

If your passion is playing basketball, or your thing is going to see concerts, or you live to join the march and sing the fight songs and cheer on the Sounders soccer team in person… you’re pretty much out of luck in 2020. And that’s crummy to say the least.

Devastating for many. Further, so many of our neighbors continue to struggle with health, loss, and financial hardship.

I think boaters understand all this. We understand how incredibly lucky we are, especially compared to so many at this time. I’d describe it as a sense of cautious appreciation. Not to be boastful, or entitled, or cavalier—just to recognize that we are fortunate, for so many reasons.

That sentiment of humbled gratitude reminds me of the brisk autumn harvest, not high summer. For all of us that love plying these waters, we should throw ourselves midsummer Thanksgiving celebrations for this near-perfect boating season. Not because of turkey or football. But because of gratitude, of bounty, and good fortune.

Because many of us are still able to sail with our loved ones and fill up our adventure cache. Because as sailors, we’re accustomed to adapting to conditions beyond our control; and the seas of pandemic life, while rough at times, have been extraordinarily kind for boat-folk, and the winds remain fair.

With glasses raised to a most unusual and imperfect and wonderful boating season around the Salish Sea, we should not lose sight of the efforts to mitigate public health risks that have made much of this possible. It feels as important as ever to stay courteous, to stay vigilant, and to stay safe while engaging in on-the-water fun—to keep the dream alive. Happy summer. Happy cruising.

Happy Thanksgiving!

6327 Seaview Ave. NW Seattle, WA 98107 (206) 789-7350, fax (206) 789-6392 www.48north.com

Publisher Northwest Maritime Center Managing Editor Joe Cline joe@48north.com Editor Andy Cross andy@48north.com Art Director Twozdai Hulse twozdai@nwmaritime.org Advertising Sales Kachele Yelaca kachele@48north.com Classifieds classads48@48north.com Contributing Editor Amanda Swan Neal Photographer Jan Anderson 48° North is published as a project of the Northwest Maritime Center in Port Townsend, WA – a 501(c)3 non-profit organization whose mission is to engage and educate people of all generations in traditional and contemporary maritime life, in a spirit of adventure and discovery.

Northwest Maritime Center: 431 Water St, Port Townsend, WA 98368 (360) 385-3628 48° North encourages letters, photographs, manuscripts, burgees, and bribes. Emailed manuscripts and high quality digital images are best, but submissions via mail or delivered in person are still most welcome!

We are not responsible for unsolicited materials.

Articles express the author’s thoughts and may not reflect the opinions of the magazine. Reprinting in whole or part is expressly forbidden except by permission from the editor.

SUBSCRIPTIONS NEW Subscription Options for 2020! $39/Year For The Magazine $75/Year For Premium Subscription (perks!)

Check www.48north.com/subscribe for details.

Prices may vary for international or first class.

I’ll see you on the water, Joe Cline

Proud members: Managing Editor 48° North

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6

AUGUST 2020

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OPEN

Letters

8

esponse: “Small Marina, Big Personality: Texada R Boat Club”

Hi Joe,

Port of Port Townsend’s 3 Lifts are at Work

★70 ton ★75 ton ★330 ton 400 Marine Trades Professionals

Your recent piece on the Texada Boating Club was interesting. I have stayed there many times, great hospitality.

However, I wanted to bring something to your attention, and the attention of your American readers. The current closure of the Canada / U.S. border to non-essential travel—presently closed until August 21—is of major concern to Canadians.

The Council of BC Yacht Clubs has been receiving reports of US flagged vessels entering Canada in violation of the Canadian Government ban on non-essential travel. Violators have been reported to both the Canada Border Services Agency and the Royal Canadian Mounted Police - Marine Division, and are being stopped and fined where applicable. More border patrols are being added to address the issue.

Please advise your readers that visits by U.S. vessels are not welcome at this time, especially those coming from Washington State, where the COVID-19 virus is spreading rapidly.

BC residents have followed the advice of our Provincial Health Officer, Dr. Bonnie Henry, to self-isolate, wear masks, and to sanitize everything. We have done and are doing our best to be compliant and minimize the spread of the virus. This is contrary to the apparent feelings of too many U.S. citizens and the U.S. virus response (and ever-increasing numbers and deaths) is a major concern on this side of the border.

We usually love to see U.S. boaters, just not now. Our health and well being are important to us. Can you spread this message to U.S. boaters you are in contact with?

Call or see the website for updates

George Creek Council of BC Yacht Clubs

360-385-6211 portofpt.com

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Mintos, Anyone?

Hello Mr. Editor; I am presently doing a full restoration of an old Minto dinghy, and have need to consult with active Minto owners regarding sail / rig details. Also, I had in mind becoming involved in class activities. For many months I have been trying to communicate with Minto dinghy owners, but without success.

I have clippings from 48° North back in 2007 and 2009, reporting on the annual Minto Mingles occurring in Quartermaster Harbor.

My questions: • Are these gatherings continuing?

• Do you continue to report on them?

• Can you assist me in finding current Minto owner persons with whom I could consult?

Thanks for your assistance, and all your good works at 48° North.

David Bergey Yarrow Point

48º NORTH

8

AUGUST 2020

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Mintos, continued We figured throwing this out to our readers was the best bet for getting some info to you quickly. In short, we aren’t really covering Minto activity these days (not that we wouldn’t); so we don’t know whether that’s because there isn’t Minto activity, or just because it has fallen off of our radar. Let us know: editor@48north.com

Remembering Captain Michael “Jake” Jacobson

Dear Joe, Andy, and 48° North Readers, I am deeply saddened today to write of the passing of Captain Michael “Jake” Jacobson. News of Jake’s passing hit me like a freight train. In the time since I learned the news, it has become very apparent that he had been helping fill a dadsized hole in my heart and soul.

I first met Jake when I was 16, sailing like so many of us did on the Lady Washington. He harnessed our enthusiasm and youthful energy with a 3” scraper and 2” paint brush, setting us to remove layers of paint and tar from every inch of her hull and deck, bringing back the beauty that so many other hands helped create.

The next year he came to Seattle to put a plank in a sunken boat I had just acquired. He did not mock my stupidity; but rather, he became complicit in my downfall.

I owe an outsized portion of my existence now to Jake for his help in saving our home, Ariel. He came to look at her in Anacortes, surveyed her, and he agreed to come to Seattle and “help”. Over that soggy, cold March (for an embarrassingly small fee and some beers), I learned how to sister and scarf a frame— in place. I learned how to remove, spiel, hang, and cork a plank— in the water on a dock with a skill saw and a grin. That was the kind of help Captain Jake gave not just me, but so many of us.

Daniel Joram

Response to Brion Toss Tribute

Dear 48° North, That was an awesome tribute to Brion! From this old Adventuress volunteer that worked with him on many difficult projects, thank you so much for the tribute. He was truly one of a kind and will be missed greatly.

John Willett

Response to Close to the Water Editorial

Hi Joe, I just wanted to say that your letter on privilege in the current magazine is really good. It is thought provoking and is a good point for all of us who have been ‘stand on’ in our life to try and see things from another perspective. Really well done.

Ron Risden

48º NORTH

10

AUGUST 2020

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11

W W W. R U B I C O N YAC H TS .C O M AUGUST 2020

low tides >> News & Events WOODEN BOAT SHOW GOING VIRTUAL September 12, 2020 Mark your calendars, tell your friends, buy your tickets! The first-ever Virtual Wooden Boat Festival put on by Wooden Boat Foundation (WBF) and the Northwest Maritime Center (NWMC) is September 12, 2020.

The WBF and NWMC have created a fully packed online experience just like the in-person festival has been for four decades. They’ve harnessed the medium of the internet to pull together a collection of boats and experts that could never join us in Port Townsend, plus many of your Festival favorites.

You’ll find all the spirit, beauty and connection of a typical Wooden Boat Festival!

Highlights include: • Showcase videos created just for this event! Live Q&A after each.

• Engage with presenters and shipwrights – “Ask a shipwright” • Discover how one young woman who grew up in Port Townsend around wooden boats became one of the world’s top athletes on the water.

• Boats from around the world • Small boat adventure stories • She Tells Sea Tales • Tours of tall ships • Behind the scenes with forgeries and professional boat shops • Connect with boat owners and presenters in private Zoom chat rooms • See what people built during the pandemic in the “COVID Builds” section • Discover an all-female boat building crew building ocean rowing boats HOW IT WORKS Buying tickets and accessing the Festival is easy. Visit the just-launched Virtual Wooden Boat Festival website, click “Get Your Tickets” and complete your purchase. You’ll receive an email on the morning of September 12 with a link to log in and access the content. That’s it! Easy peasy.

You’ll just need a smartphone, tablet, or computer, and internet access for streaming. If you’d like to take part in the “Chat with the Experts” Zoom rooms, you’ll need to install Zoom on your device as well.

All the details are at: virtualwbf.org

SIEBEL SAILORS PROGRAM EXPANDS TO OREGON AND WASHINGTON US Sailing’s new and growing youth development program is expanding to include the states of Oregon and Washington.

US Sailing is excited to announce the following Primary and Supporting Siebel Centers. These community sailing organizations play an important role in the development of youth sailing in the Pacific Northwest and around the nation.

Sail Sand Point (Seattle, Wash.) has been selected as the Primary Siebel Center for the Pacific Northwest. The Center for Wooden Boats (Seattle, Wash.) and Gorge Junior Sailing (Hood River, Ore.) have been selected to serve as Supporting Siebel Centers.

In April 2019, US Sailing announced a new nationwide community sailing program made possible by a major donation from the Thomas and Stacey Siebel Foundation. The purpose of this ground-breaking Siebel Sailors Program is to increase diversity and opportunity in the sport of sailing by providing resources and support to youth sailors at public access sailing centers across the country. This is a national US Sailing program that is executed locally by Siebel Centers with adaptations for regional needs across the country. Michael Cornew has been named Siebel Program Coach for the Pacific Northwest.

US Sailing will be closely following state and local government guidelines to determine when to open programming safely with our Siebel Centers. Learn more about these Siebel Centers: ussailing.org/news/siebel-oregon-washington 48º NORTH

12

AUGUST 2020

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AUGUST 2020

low tides >> News & Events (continue) CELEBRATE ON THE LAKE The Center for Wooden Boats weathers the COVID-19 storm and begins phased reopening and new public programs.

After closing both campuses on March 13, 2020 due to the impacts of COVID-19, The Center for Wooden Boats (CWB) is reopening programs in phases in accordance with Washington’s Safe Start plan. This programming includes youth and adult classes, boat rentals, and modified events.

The organization plans to reschedule postponed events when it is safe to gather in communities again. This includes the postponement of The 44th Annual Lake Union Wooden Boat Festival, which was scheduled to be held at the end of September.

In lieu of the Lake Union Wooden Boat Festival, CWB plans to host a series of socially distant events called Celebrate on the Lake: Honoring Wooden Boats and Our History. CWB plans to livestream all on-the-water activities for those who cannot participate. This includes rescheduling the Sailpast Memorial to honor CWB cofounder, Colleen Wagner, who passed away earlier this year. Celebrate on the Lake events include: September 19-20: Youth and Adult El Toro Races September 26: Sailpast Memorial for Colleen Wagner September 27: Human-Powered Races/Quick & Daring: Home Edition Community members with access to their own boats are encouraged to participate, but there will be limited access and availability to the CWB fleet.

Registration will open in August.

“Even though we can’t gather together in person, we still want to honor the Wagner family and what Dick & Colleen Wagner have built for this maritime community. We wouldn’t exist without their vision and it’s more important than ever to honor our community,” CWB's Community Engagement Director Sandy Lam said. “We’ve chosen smaller and modified events that are normally festival highlights, spread out over several days as a way to celebrate distantly. We hope to livestream all on-the-water events for those to join us from home.”

CWB RESUMES SOME OPERATIONS: “Keeping our community healthy and safe is our highest priority as we slowly reopen,” said Josh Anderson, CWB Executive Director. “One of the reasons why CWB exists is to provide a place for people to unwind and get out on the water for mental health.

Our staff has spent weeks modifying our programs, safety protocols, and increasing sanitation practices to provide opportunities for all to get out on the water this summer.”

The South Lake Union and Cama Beach campuses are now both open for boat rentals. The South Lake Union Oarhouse is open Wednesday – Sunday, 11am – 7pm by online & phone reservation only. The Cama Beach Boathouse is open Thursday – Monday, 10am – 6pm. An online reservation system will be implemented in the coming weeks. The museum and dock spaces remain closed to the public for the health and safety of staff, volunteers, and guests.

In lieu of Sunday Public Sail, which has been postponed until further notice, CWB has implemented a Public Peapod Program, which allows any member of the public a free one-hour boat rental from the peapod fleet.

“While we can’t open our indoor museum and docks to the public just yet, we felt it was important to still maintain access to the water for all during this time,” Anderson said. “The peapod rowboats are perfect for families or groups of less than five to get out on the water. The stable design and ease of use are perfectly safe even for beginners.”

As part of CWB’s commitment to reducing barriers and increasing diversity in the boating community, CWB has partnered with US Sailing and become a center for the Siebel Sailor Program. As one of the three sailing centers represented in the Pacific Northwest, US Sailing provides a fleet of RS Fevas and a US Sailing Coach to each center, creating additional opportunity for free programming that can reduce barriers and reach underserved youth and minority communities.

“Free programming is especially valuable for reducing barriers,” said Nora Gallogly, CWB Youth Programs Manager. “This class of boat will help kids learn how to sail and race in teams, which we haven’t been able to offer before!” CWB is working on partnering with organizations to begin the Siebel Sailors Program later this summer, expected to begin in Phase 3 of the Safe Start reopening plan.

For additional information about CWB’s reopening plan, please visit: cwb.org/covid19 48º NORTH

14

AUGUST 2020

THE ADVENTURESS CUP A Race for the Salish Sea On September 20, 2020, scores of sailboats will gather on Shilshole Bay for the inaugural year of a new, inclusive, feel-good event: The Adventuress Cup – A Race for the Salish Sea. Organized by Sound Experience, the nonprofit that owns and operates the iconic schooner Adventuress, the event replaces the organization’s fall gala, which in recent years has raised more than $150,000 to provide critical support for youth education aboard Adventuress, including its popular Girls at the Helm program.

Each Adventuress Cup participant may be a part of a real or virtual crew. Crew members are encouraged to participate in peer-topeer fundraising and environmental education pre-race challenges to improve their boat’s handicap (or score).

Rusty Lhamon, Sound Experience Board Member and Race Chair, says, “We are creating an event with both real and virtual components that will be exciting and meaningful to all participants, those who sail in person and those who participate from miles away.”

“At Sound Experience, we believe that we are all shipmates,” shares Catherine Collins, Executive Director. “The one thing we hear most from kids at the end of a program is, ‘I would never have been friends with [her/him/them] if we hadn’t sailed together.’”

Whether it is experiencing the marine environment for the first time, taking the helm of a tall ship, or learning what it means to be a shipmate, programs aboard Adventuress have been changing perspectives and lives for decades in the Puget Sound region.

All activities will follow safety guidelines and procedures from the CDC, USCG, and WA State Department of Health and will not include land-based events. soundexp.org/AdventuressCup

BOATS AFLOAT SHOW SHIFTS TO COORDINATED BROKERS OPEN HOUSE September 18-20, 2020 The Northwest Yacht Brokers Associations regrets to announce the cancellation of the in-water Boats Afloat Show this September due to COVID-19 concerns and restrictions.

NYBA is adjusting their focus to a safer alternative and are committed to helping you find the boat of your dreams while prioritizing your health and safety. For more info, please visit: boatsafloatshow.com 48º NORTH

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AUGUST 2020

low tides >>

Products News

LEATHERMAN FREE K2 AND K2X MULTI-TOOL Leatherman’s new FREE K2 and K2X Multi-Tool is multipurpose and functionality redefined. Made in Portland, Oregon, and covered by a 25-year warranty, the FREE K2 includes a 3.3-inch non-serrated blade and seven additional tools, including a pry tool, awl, bottle opener, and three sizes of Phillips screwdrivers. (The K2X features a combo blade with a short serrated section). Each implement is housed on the outside of an ergonomically refined aluminum body for quick access, a superior grip, and ease of use. Every feature on the tool can be opened and operated with one hand, enabling the user to keep the other hand free for situations that require multitasking or a free hand.

The FREE’s ingenious magnetic locking system allows safe, smooth use of each implement, letting you work with speed and confidence whether you’re up a mast or bracing yourself on a wet deck. Price: $69.95. Leatherman.com

WINCH CADDY BEVERAGE HOLDER Developed and refined out on the waters of Seattle, the Winch Caddy performs a simple yet important task—holding your drinks to prevent spilling on your boat. Manufactured from premium plastic material that provides excellent UV resistance and strength, and a high gloss finish, the Winch Caddy fits into all standard size sailing winches and Scotty fishing rod mounts. It holds standard beverage cans and bottles and has drainage holes located at the bottom. For convenient storage down below or in a cockpit locker, multiple Winch Caddy holders can be stacked together.

The Winch Caddy is available in three colors: Red, light blue, and white.

Price: $19.99. winchcaddy.com

STA-PLUG® MINI™ Stopping a leak aboard a boat is rarely a simple, one size fits all, plug-and-play affair, especially with old wooden bungs. Forespar helped solve this problem with their original Sta-Plug® emergency cone. Now, they’ve introduced the Sta-Plug® Mini™, a new form-fitting emergency plug with all the same benefits but in a smaller, compact size. The soft cone-shaped design allows it to easily fill the irregular shapes of hull impact breaches, as well as any round hole leak from a hose or through-hull. Its unique, edge gripping riblets hold the plug in place to keep water out. The riblets help Sta-Plug® conform to the shape of the hole, sealing a leak near the edge where a tight fit is crucial. Made in the USA, the Sta-Plug® Mini™ is 4-inches tall and has a 2-inch diameter at the base. It meets US Sailing Special Equipment Requirements and is equipped with a lanyard hole to attach it at or near a seacock. Price: $19.95 per two-pack.

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AUGUST 2020

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AUGUST 2020

18

Artist's View

Just as their name suggests, these guys prefer to live around rocks. Twenty-eight species of rockfish live in the Salish Sea, from 3-inch tide pool dwellers to 3-foot lunkers that live in deeper water and weigh in at 25 pounds. Most are slowgrowing and long-lived; some live to be more than a century old. They have a completely different lifestyle from live-fast and die-young salmon. Foraging for other fish, they may swim only a few hundred miles in their lifetime. Rockfish tend to hang out together in groups around rock pinnacles or cliffs, places with lots of tidal current (which helps bring meals to them and not the other way around). Canary rockfish usually have three stripes angling down and backwards on the head, the middle one often runs across the eye. This is a very bright and distinctive fish.

Sketches and story by Larry Eifert

The conservation of this fish is a real success story; and one that shows how science and government can work together to make our lives, and the lives of rockfish, better. After discovering how good rockfish tastes, a definite over-exploitation of these delectable fish began in the 1800s. This continued until canary rockfish were declared overfished in 2000, when it was discovered that rockfish populations had declined 70% since the 1960s. Fish and Wildlife submitted a petition to have 14 rockfish species listed under the Endangered Species Act (in the end, not all of these were listed). Scientific studies of them began, and complemented old-fashion surveys asking fishermen, “Where are you catching canary rockfish?” Based on findings from each of those avenues, fishing rules were changed and different gear was introduced. Suddenly, in half the time originally forecast, we have plenty of rockfish.

Larry Eifert paints and sails the Pacific Northwest from Port Townsend. His large-scale murals can be seen in many national parks across America, and at larryeifert.com.

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AUGUST 2020

by Deborah Bach

WORKING ABOARD:

THE CHALLENGES AND REWARDS OF A FLOATING OFFICE

We had successfully transited a series of rapids in British Columbia’s Cordero Strait en route to Southeast Alaska two summers ago when we faced an even bigger and more stressful challenge—finding an internet signal so I could join an important work meeting.

As Marty drove the boat around in circles off the north side of East Thurlow Island, trying to steer us to the area where a cell phone provider map showed there was coverage, I was down below, frantically trying to get my laptop connected to the meeting. We finally hit the right spot and I logged on just as the meeting started, my colleagues none the wiser about our panicked episode.

Working aboard can be—by turns—an adventure, a headache, and one of the best perks of boat ownership. I’ve worked remotely for years, and long before the pandemic hit we’ve been figuring out how to make working from our boat possible.

We’ve lived on the boat most summers over the past decade for months at a stretch, with me working aboard at the marina while Marty was at his office a few miles away in downtown Seattle. The arrangement enabled us to extend our vacation times—since Marty has more time off than me, I’d work a week or two on either end of our holidays so we could spend longer out cruising.

Some liveaboards might already be working aboard out of necessity, with the coronavirus forcing many people to work remotely for now. But for boat owners who are lucky enough to still be employed and able to work remotely, there's a new 48º NORTH

opportunity to turn their boats into floating offices. When Marty’s office shut down in early March, we decided to take advantage of the situation and work from the boat as much as possible. We spent most of a recent week anchored out in Eagle Harbor off Bainbridge Island, working during the day and enjoying sunsets, dinghy exploring, and walks onshore in the evenings. As I write this, we’re working from Port Townsend while finishing our re-rigging project.

Working from the boat has been mostly a fantastic experience, giving us freedom we wouldn’t have with precovid work arrangements. But it does require some flexibility and it’s probably not for everyone. Working in a small space is challenging. Trying to work underway, with engine noise or the boat heeled over, can be difficult, if not impossible. Some boaters might not want their work life intruding on their boating hobby. And there will invariably be times when you’d like to go sailing or sit in the cockpit enjoying a beautiful anchorage, but you have to work instead.

On the other hand, working aboard means that in this time of turmoil and uncertainty, the day can unfold with calming views of sky and water, reassuring evidence that while life as we knew it a few months ago is gone, some things have not changed.

Starting the day with coffee in the cockpit, taking in the beauty of our surroundings, is a balm for my anxious mind. Now more than ever, our floating home feels like a sanctuary from the crises roiling the country and world.

If this pandemic had happened a decade or two ago, working

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aboard might not have been possible. But access to highspeed data is more prevalent than ever, and the advent of cloud computing and new technologies like Teams and Zoom, two popular video conference platforms, are enabling people to connect and collaborate in new ways. Still, the biggest challenge by far for us working aboard has been connectivity— specifically, having an internet signal strong enough for us to do what we need to. Marty has spent a tremendous amount of time and effort thinking through our data and WiFi systems (see below for more details).

Space is another challenge and leads to some comical and inconvenient situations. If Marty is on a video call in the cockpit and I also have a meeting, I’ll go into our cabin, shut the door and do my meeting sitting on our v-berth. Our water pump makes an ungodly noise (which reminds me—we need to get a new one), so we’ll try to avoid running the water if the other person is on a call. Ditto using the head. Occasionally a boat or plane roars by in the middle of a conversation.

If you haven’t worked aboard and are considering it, you might want to give it a try at the dock first and if that’s successful, try a short cruise. Doing a proper shakedown for working aboard is as important as doing it for your boat at the start of the season.

You’ll be surprised by how many little things can cause hiccups in maintaining a good boat office. For us, that largely meant making sure we had ways to charge our computers, including the right cables, headphones and adapters, and enough DC outlets.

You can also experiment in finding the best places to do your work. The navigation station often does double duty as a work desk. Same for our table in the main cabin. And is there a better office view than sitting on the pilot seat or in the cockpit and enjoying a spectacular anchorage?

If you’re thinking about working aboard, now’s the chance to make that happen. You might love it—or not. It can be fun and rewarding, and a great new way to use your boat. If nothing else, it’s adventurous and will provide some conversational fodder for those endless Zoom meetings we’re all having these days. (“That sound? Oh, it’s just a great blue heron squawking as it took off from dock.”)

ONBOARD CONNECTIVITY – THE HOLY GRAIL Obviously for those who are considering working onboard, perhaps the biggest challenge is to get a secure, high-speed internet connection. We’ve been wrestling with this issue for years, spending probably a bit too much on gear and equipment that at the end of the day often failed to produce the results we wanted.

On the other hand, as the years have progressed, so has the availability of high-speed cellular data across most of the Salish Sea. That alone has made working from a boat much less of a headache.

When we first started down this path, a simple WiFi extender was usually enough to pick up a free WiFi signal from some unsuspecting homeowner in the area. But these days, almost no one has an unsecured WiFi signal. Plus, if you ever tried to pick up a Wifi signal at a marina, you’re probably familiar with how frustrating and difficult that can be.

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Having a cell booster aboard is almost a must for working aboard and cruising.

In the latest update to our internet systems aboard our Passport 40 sailboat, Meridian, we decided to focus on cellular data. We purchased an LTE modem to pull in cellular data and then connected that modem to a WiFi router so our laptops and iPads use that cellular signal. To make the system work better in locations without a strong data signal, we installed a cellular signal booster with an external antenna. This boosts all cellular signals, so it helps the modem to provide high-speed data, but it can also improve phone call quality too, provided you keep the phone near the booster antenna.

Even the best boat connectivity can't be guaranteed. This trailer is the public library in Thorne Bay, Alaska, where the author had to go to use the WiFi (no cell phone data or marina WiFi there).

For anyone who really wants to get into the technical details, we highly recommend visiting local boater Steve Mitchell’s website at SeaBits.com and reading his columns in 48° North. He has an amazing collection of technical posts around his various efforts of installing and testing high-quality components to stay connected onboard.

We’d love to hear about your experiences working onboard — what challenges you’ve encountered and how you addressed them, unresolved issues, highlights, misadventures and anything else you want to share. Drop us a line at editor@48north.com.

Three Sheets Northwest is produced by Deborah Bach and Marty McOmber. You can find them sailing their Passport 40 around the Salish Sea and beyond.

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22

Lessons Learned Cruising

by Jamie and Behan Gifford

PREPPING FOR CRUISING…ONLINE When considering the skill sets necessary to go cruising, most people focus on sailing competence. This seems obvious and, of course, it IS important.

But there are a range of additional proficiencies and knowledge to seek, too.

Cruising lives are kept afloat by much more than well-trimmed sails.

Historically, many of these training needs are met at boat shows­—in a general way at free seminars, and in-depth at “boater’s university” type intensives.

Other learning opportunities come through boating and industry businesses and organizations—sailing and yacht clubs, and community colleges. Some are best served by specialty providers (medical training is one good example).

Pandemic restrictions have taken many of these conventional approaches to learning off the menu for now. In response, a growing number of providers are moving their classroom courses online. People may need to change modes of interaction to minimize risk, but still want and need to learn. Turning to remote education isn’t new, of 48º NORTH

course. But Covid-19 suddenly dropped more time in our laps. It normalized interactions through the screen and has legitimized online interaction as a channel of communication and education in new ways.

How is this playing out locally in the Pacific Northwest? Across a range of disciplines, instructors and training programs are expanding their online options. I caught up with local instructor, Margaret Pommert, who has ramped up online training—in recent months, she’s taught at least 20 seminars online for the Seattle Sailing Club. Thanks to Margaret, I learned how San Juan Sailing and Yachting’s Captain Mike Huston and team are also preparing to shift the inperson orientation they offer to charter customers into online seminars.

They’re not the only ones. Bellinghambased Backcountry Medical is moving their Maritime Medicine course online.

After finding all the usual sources for offshore medical training remaining offline, I’m pretty excited about this.

Jamie and I could benefit from a medical

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refresher, as our Wilderness First Aid training was quite a few years ago.

Skagit Valley College’s Cruisers College is working to pivot away from classroom courses, too, taking offerings typically delivered in their Anacortes setting to online delivery this fall.

And then, there are providers who have been offering remote training for years. Starpath Navigation offers courses in topics ranging from navigation to radar; and this hometown favorite has been helping sailors learn from the comfort of their computer at home for a couple of decades already.

Director David Burch noted that the current situation has brought them a few new customers, but also brought prior customers (with extra time on their hands) back to expand their area of study with additional classes.

It’s a brave new world to which we’re all adjusting; one where the remote, screen-based meeting can be valued the same way as an in-person session. But in fact, this may just be institutions catching up with their customers.

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With that in mind, what about YouTube? Isn’t everything about cruising available somewhere on YouTube now? Yes … and no. A few months ago, we had a hive-mind session with coaching clients in search of “Useful YouTube.” While there’s no shortage of inspiration on that platform, the tangibly practical nuggets are typically buried in lifestyle channels rather than easily found through organized programs or educational entities. There’s also an astonishing amount of information that could be as problematic as it is helpful: it might be lacking context, perspective (shared by a vlogger with limited experience), and sometimes it’s just flat-out wrong. Ultimately, while rich with potentially valuable information, our recommendation is to proceed with some caution when using YouTube as a learning resource because it can be difficult to discern the reliability of the information or presenter. It becomes harder to navigate when trusted sources for education are hard to find, though.

The shift to online learning is playing out on Totem, too. As we coach aspiring cruisers, a big part is helping the people

we work with identify the skills and tasks they should tackle to set themselves up for successful cruising, and help them identify the different resources to meet those gaps.

We no longer have to introduce Zoom to new clients, as they’ve been using it for months. And we’ve brought our own slice of education to the internet by starting a livestream series we call Totem Talks. It covers subjects we find important—from international formalities to piracy issues for cruisers, from anchoring realities to perspectives from guest speakers.

The big question: will sailors go back to conventional options later? Or are we seeing a sea change in the way many seek to acquire skills? Even when pandemic fears eventually fade, there are plenty of advantages to online learning that may endure. Some people might be limited on free time by a busy job or family responsibilities that make virtual learning a better choice. Others may lack flexibility to commit to a classroom program or schedule. As online education becomes legitimized, expanded, and enhanced, boaters’ options for fitting learning into a busy life broaden and

improve, for the benefit of all.

There are still plenty of areas that need hands-on personal experience, or that benefit from the in-person instruction.

But there are so very many that can be offered remotely and largely online, whether they are scheduled sessions delivered live, or pre-recorded classes available on-demand. While it may feel strange to learn skills related to sailing through a screen, it’s an ever-more-valid way to acquire knowledge. For some people, it’s even preferable. And for many, a combination is ideal.

If the outcome from this pivot to remote learning is that more people are able to get more training, I think we can declare victory for safe, happy sailing.

Behan and Jamie Gifford set sail from Bainbridge Island in 2008 and are currently aboard Totem in Mexico. Their column for 48° North has traced Lessons Learned Cruising during a circumnavigation with their three children aboard and continued adventures afloat. Follow them at www.sailingtotem.com

Here’s a roundup of select resources for online learning – some free, some paid – to jumpstart your next bit of knowledge acquisition.

WEATHER One of the most important skills for safety and comfort on the water, and easy to do remotely.

NOAA offers online education content aimed at kid and teens, which actually makes it great basic information for anyone. www.nssl.noaa.gov/education/svrwx101/ MetEd is a free collection of hundreds of training resources intended for the geoscience community. Aimed at pros but open to all, classes can be more specific – like A Forecaster's Overview of the Northwest Pacific. www.meted.ucar.edu/training_module.php?id=569#.

XwNm0ChKhPZ MEDICAL Backcountry Medical’s Maritime Medicine course commences online in September, with video segments supplemented with live Q&A and highlights with instructors. www.backcountrymedicalguides.org/ DIESEL ENGINE MAINTENANCE Our clients raved about Off Center Harbor’s marine diesel courses: www.offcenterharbor.com/category/engines 48º NORTH

Boaters University has several courses, we’ve heard from attendees the diesel class gets high marks. www.boatersuniversity.com/courses/marine-dieselmaintenance-troubleshooting CELESTIAL NAVIGATION An optional skill for cruising, we believe, but that doesn’t mean it’s pretty cool to know. Vanderbilt University offers a free online course; contributors include tenured cruising education instructor Ralph Naranjo. www.my.vanderbilt.edu/astronav/ BOATING BASICS & BEYOND Washington’s boater education program is a great place to start. It’s only required for operators, but it’s valuable for anyone on a boat, and the material is free. www.boat-ed.com/washington/ Basics to more rigorous courses from NauticEd: www.nauticed.org/sailing-courses Seattle-based Starpath offers multiple courses on navigation as well as marine weather and celestial nav. www.starpath.com Not courses per se, but a library of helpful resources on Cruising Club of America’s site: www.cruisingclub.org/articles

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24

How-to

by Alex and Jack Wilken

GETTING THE ANCHOR READY

Sailing away from the dock, back out into the world of wind and tide, can be one of life's greatest joys. But unless you are going to sail day and night, you will want to stop somewhere.

Anchoring has always been an appealing approach to those stops—it can offer privacy and peace without the hassles of reservations or expense, and can certainly help you explore farther off the beaten track.

If that wasn’t enough, 2020’s cruising season is increasing the appeal of anchoring for another reason: fewer touchpoints and easier social distancing. Considering achoring’s benefits—new and long standing—it’s a good time to revisit the parts of a safe and functional anchoring system, and some of the maintenance associated with those elements.

We have covered a lot of anchoring topics in 48° North over the years: windlass installation in the August 2017 issue, installing an anchor wash-down pump in November 2013, how to install a chain stopper in June 2014, and we discussed stern anchors in February 2014. There’s more specific info about those subjects in those articles. Here, we’ll look at the complete anchoring system and how to make sure it is in good working order to sufficiently hold the boat to a good spot on the bottom.

In order to efficiently and safely anchor your boat, there are a number of variables that come into play. First, you must know what type of anchor you have and in what bottom types it is good. You need a way to securely attach the anchor to your boat and a way to get the anchor and its attachments overboard safely. You need to be able to measure how much scope you are putting out, and then, you need a way to get it all back into the boat. Some of these ensure you’ll anchor safely, some help keep you from having to buy a new anchor and rode every time you drop the hook!

Which anchor is the right anchor for a particular boat in a particular situation is beyond the scope of this article, but a simple internet search of “anchor holding or comparison tests” will provide you with an abundance of information and opinions on the subject.

No matter what anchor you choose, it needs to be in good working order, and should be both securely stowed when underway and accessible for deployment when you need it (Figure 1).

Unless your anchor and rode are so light that you can easily lower and raise them without touching the hull, you really need an anchor roller. This roller needs to be big enough for the chain, rode, and a thimble eye (if you have one), and strong enough to take the strain of the boat pulling against it at anchor in a storm.

You can deploy and retrieve the anchor other ways and secure it differently than with a bow roller. We had a Thunderbird sailboat with no anchor roller and to deploy and retrieve the anchor we tied a large cylindrical fender over a winch at the 48º NORTH

edge of the cockpit and ran the chain and rode over it so that it didn't damage the hull. Once the anchor was down, we then tied the rode off at the bow through one of the chocks to a cleat, which worked quite well. And, when trying to deploy or retrieve a stern anchor from a dinghy, we have put a hard, flat deck cushion over the side of the inflatable dinghy to prevent abrasion. For more on stern anchoring, refer to our February 2014 article, “Stern Stuff”.

The shackle attaching the anchor to the chain should be removable so you can easily detach it should you need to, but it should also be secured with seizing wire or a tie wrap so that it can't come undone accidentally. If the shackle is so rusted you can't open it with a wrench, then it needs to be freed up so it can be, or cut off and replaced (Figure 2).

The anchor rode—be it all chain or rode and chain—needs to be inspected from end to end. Often, the best way to do this is to pull all the rode out and lay it on the dock to look it over. There should be no chafe on the rode. The chain should not be excessively rusty and all of the links should be free to move. If the chain is starting to rust, it can be re-galvanized (Figure 3). Any additional shackles should be checked and dealt with in the same fashion as the anchor shackle. If the chain is attached to the rode with a shackle, it often will not go through the windlass. Splicing the rode onto the chain eliminates the shackle and makes it easier for the rode to go around the windlass and through the anchor roller.

Figure 1: This bow roller has been modified with plates welded to the top of it so that the pin (A) can secure this anchor in place. The existing hole for a pin did not work with this anchor.

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Scope is the ratio of the distance between your anchor and the point at which it comes onto the boat and the water depth.

Generally, you would like a scope ratio of 7:1, so if the distance from the bottom to where the rode comes onto the boat is 20 feet, then you would want to have at least 140 feet of rode out.

Scope of 5:1 can be acceptable if the rode is all chain and if you are going to be keeping an eye out. A “lunch hook” of 2:1 can work in light conditions for an hour or two if you will be staying with the boat. All this requires measuring the rode to know how much you have in total, marking the rode at regular intervals after measuring it out on the dock, and paying attention during deployment to determine how much rode you have out. A common interval is every 50 feet, but we have found that every 10 fathoms (60 feet) is in some ways an easier interval to deal with and requires fewer marks on the rode. We also talked about various ways to mark the chain and rode in our August 2013 article, “Anchoring Bits and Bobs”.

A windlass needs annual maintenance. You need to check the oil level (Figure 4), then check that the windlass itself works.

A good way to do this is to deploy the anchor and all the rode at the dock and then retrieve it. If you have a problem, it is far easier to fix before you leave the marina.

Windlasses are relatively simple, the ratchet works in one direction, only for pulling the anchor and rode up. To control the down, some form of friction brake is used to keep the wildcat from spinning freely, and this can be used to control the rode as you let it out if not using the electrical down switch. There are simpler windlasses that only pull up and you must release the brake to deploy the anchor and rode. If any of the parts don't move, you can free them up using penetrating oil, leverage, and (in more extreme circumstances) heat.

The electrical parts of an electric windlass are also fairly simple. If it doesn't work, check to make sure it is getting power.

Most of the time, the problem will be the switches. Brushed

Figure 2: (A) This seizing wire prevents the shackle from coming undone accidentally.

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electrical motors will need the brushes changed from time to time as they wear out. And, if the switches are working, the brushes are new and installed properly, the windlass turns and works manually, but the electrical part doesn't work and you have confirmed that power is arriving at the motor—then it’s time to remove the motor and take it into a marine electrical shop and have them take a look at it.

“To the bitter end.” Unless you particularly want to have a deeper understanding of this phrase, the bitter end of the anchor rode must, of course, be secured to the boat. And that attachment must hold in such a way that it won't be pulled out if the boat was, say, in full reverse and all the rode was being let go as fast as the wildcat could spin until the anchor catches on the bottom and then all of the momentum of the boat is brought up short against the secured point at the bitter end. This is not a recommended technique, but we did actually see it employed once by another boat in an anchorage. More seriously, if one were being blown down on a lee shore and really needed to get the anchor down fast before running aground—another circumstance to be avoided, clearly—one might indeed use some version of that technique and be very glad that the bitter end was well secured.

Elements of an anchoring system are tools. And as with any endeavor, top quality tools alone can’t replace experience and technique. With anchoring, as with everything else, the more you do it, the better you get at it and the more comfortable you become. Making sure everything is in good working order at the dock, where you have easy access to parts and help if you need them, is the first step in getting the boat safely anchored.

Alex and Jack Wilken are lifelong cruisers, professional shipwrights, USCG licensed captain, and the owners of Seattle Boat Works.

Figure 3: If your anchor chain starts to look like this, it may be time to have it re-galvanized. This chain has plenty of strength left, but it will continue to rust if it sits in water, particularly salt water.

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Figure 4: (A) Windlass oil fill. (B) Windlass oil sight glass. You can check the state and level of the windlass oil through this glass.

AUGUST 2020

UNBELIEVABLE SERENDIPITY

by Dana Greyson

KNOCKING OPPORTUNITIES AND A POST-CRUISING MIRACLE

I

n 2012, my husband, Wayne, and I quit our jobs; abandoned friends, family, and mainstream modern conveniences in the Pacific Northwest; and ditched all our stuff for a nomadic life. Our plan: spend five years cruising, then sell our boat in Australia.

With nothing more than our airline luggage, we moved aboard our sturdy 1977 Pearson 365 Journey in St. Lucia and adjusted to our new living space. Comprising about 150-square feet, it was tiny, but came with a massive “backyard”—a phenomenal, ever-changing view, with no lawn to mow, and no rent or mortgage to pay.

We took the “Coconut Milk Run” back to Florida to get Journey ready to cross the Pacific. After getting broken-in by our boat that first year, we sailed the Bahamas the next season to restore

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our confidence in ourselves and our boat. In December 2014, we headed for the Panama Canal. We sailed 10,000 miles that year, including our 31-day passage from the Galapagos Islands to the French Marquesas. We re-routed to American Samoa in 2015, where we could replace boat parts and my laptop (along with Spike seasoning and SodaStream syrup) through US mail.

Opportunities in life always seem to knock along the way and we figured that when something did, we’d answer the call.

The big knock we got during our cruising years came too early, in American Samoa. We learned that the communities there had a desperate need for school teachers. College-educated cruisers were in demand to teach a variety of subjects. They even provided housing. We were interested—Wayne could teach Chemistry and I would enjoy teaching English—but the

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case against doing it stacked up. Issues with boat storage and a problematic-to-boats-and-humans tuna processing factory combined with our desires to explore New Zealand’s Bay of Islands (which had recently been voted “best cruising grounds in the world” by Cruising World readers). We were not ready to stop cruising yet, so on we went.

In 2017, we rang in the new year aboard Journey under one of the most iconic fireworks shows in the world, a stone’s throw from the Sydney Opera House. That moment marked an accomplished goal for us: sailing halfway around the world and visiting 31 countries along the way. Our feelings of achievement combined with relief, satisfaction, exhilaration, and anxiety.

Whatever challenges arose at sea—right down to the final frightening lightning storm as we approached Australia—we found a way to overcome. We were confident the same would be true in our next chapter.

Two weeks later, we sold Journey for the same price we paid, and about twice what we believed she would’ve sold for in the U.S. Suddenly, we faced a new dilemma—what do you do when you stop cruising?

LIFE AFTER CRUISING Instead of coming home, we circumnavigated the rest of Oz on four wheels and no keels. First in a woefully underpowered van-camper conversion, then living out of a Land Cruiser. Four months later, we decided to return to the States. My parents weren’t getting any younger and I wanted to spend time with them while it was still an option. Other than that, we weren’t sure where we’d land or what we’d do once we arrived.

Upon our return, we experienced the same reaction as Robin Lee Graham, famed author of Dove and (at the time) the youngest person to circumnavigate the world—"culture shock.”

Graham said, “At sea, I learned how little a person needs, not how much.”

I visited my parents in Florida, then flew to join Wayne in Portland, Oregon. We took refuge in my in-laws’ spare bedroom, grateful for a temporary landing place, while we sorted out our life. We mollified our new dirt-dweller existence with visions of dishwashers amidst full kitchens, cushy recliners, a queensized bed, endless hot showers, easy-streaming Wi-Fi—the life most of our friends, family, and colleagues take for granted.

Unfortunately, Portland's giddy real estate market shook the assurance we had in our plan. The cost of living had doubled since we lived there in 2010. Month-to-month rental for a two-bedroom apartment in a neighborhood where graffiti and boarded windows were common started at $1,500. Throughout our cruising adventure, we averaged $1,800 per month for all our expenses. Feeling financially stunned helped us understand Portland’s burgeoning homeless populations sharing sidewalk space with residents of swanky half-million-dollar condos.

I posted about our conundrum on my blog. Then came a most unexpected message from friends . . .

TOM AND DIANE We’d met six years prior when I sought pre-cruising crew experience. A fellow I crewed for dropped anchor near the only 48º NORTH

other boat in the remote British Columbia anchorage. Most of the anchorage was 60-feet deep or more, leaving few spots shallow enough to anchor. After a heated discussion between the two captains over VHF radio about whether the boats were too close, we reached anchoring detente: both boats stayed put.

Dana and Wayne on the bow of Journey.

As is often the case, we were on a similar cruising track. Later on in Hartley Bay, the other cruisers, Tom* and Diane* on a Puget Trawler, came by to break bread; initiating our friendship.

In the days that followed, we continued to cross paths and Tom even taught me how to tie a bowline. When I asked the couple how they’d met, their book-worthy answer spanned two days.

While my parents thought Wayne and I were crazy to sail the South Pacific, Tom and Diane served as surrogate parents, offering their hearty approval. In their younger days, they built a catamaran, and had their own grand sailing plans. Instead, as the years passed, they contented themselves with cruising British Columbia and the Northwest, motoring well into Alaska.

Needless to say, they were a special pair.

Fast-forward back to 2017, to the culture-shocked re-entry into land life Wayne and I were attempting. And to my befuddled blog post wondering how returning nomads should find a place to live in Portland.

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After two nights aboard, we took Tom and Diane up on their incredibly generous offer. Tom spent hours walking us through the boat's details and followed up with many emails. ”Our new boat ‘owns’ this boat’s name. You will have to re-name the boat,” Tom insisted, when we met to sign the title transfer. We were more than happy to oblige.

While we figured, eventually, we'd find ourselves on a boat again, never in our wildest dreams did we expect it to happen so soon or in the way it did. Given how the trawler came to us, we dubbed her M/V Serendipity.

Wherever Serendipity is, Dana and Wayne call home.

As much as Tom and Diane loved their trawler, mobility and maintenance issues prompted them to downsize from their 37-foot boat. They purchased an almost new trailerable 27foot Ranger Tug, but continued to pay the monthly marina and insurance payments for their now unused trawler. They noticed similar boats didn’t seem to sell.

Tom saw my post and, with Diane's blessing, made an incredible offer: "Would you like our trawler as a live-aboard?"

Tom asked. "We can sign the title over to you if you're interested."

SERENDIPITY Once again, opportunity was knocking. The sheer generosity of their offer flabbergasted Wayne and me. Nonetheless, we were keenly interested. Temporarily crashing at my in-laws aside, we were not accustomed to a helping hand in tough financial transitions. Humbled and grateful, we began to explore the option.

We checked out Portland marinas where liveaboards were allowed and were pleasantly surprised to discover there was ample availability. Covered slips with extra liveaboard fees ran a little over $600; far less than an unfurnished apartment, and in a neighborhood that appealed more to us. As a bonus— unlike apartments—liveaboard boats do not need furniture; it's already all built in.

When we lived aboard our sailboat in Florida, Wayne worked a swing-shift. Every time I stepped aboard or cooked, I woke Wayne up. An understatement—when it came to domestic bliss, that was not our finest point. Wayne would again work odd hours and we still needed to make sure the trawler would work for us as a liveaboard.

With easily twice the interior living space, a rear stateroom in addition to the V-berth, and an extra head, the trawler offered far better liveaboard accommodation than our cruising sailboat.

Unlike Journey, where all the cabin living areas shared the same level, the trawler’s staterooms and bathrooms were a half-level lower than the galley-settee area, which was better for our divergent schedules.

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HOME Other than eight months saying my last goodbyes to my parents in Florida, wherever Serendipity is, we now call home.

During the summers, we anchor off our favorite haunts on the Columbia River, walking barefoot on the beach while eagles circle overhead. We’ve taken Serendipity cruising in the San Juan Islands and British Columbia. We spend the winters tucked into covered moorage in the Portland area.

Last fall, we enjoyed the best highlight of all: we joined Tom and Diane on their cruise in British Columbia. It must have felt strange for them to be served dinner on the boat they called their own for ten years. We did our best to make them proud of their decision. Serendipity shines with their love, and ours. We continue to feel humbled and grateful every day.

Reflecting on our cruising experience abroad and the journey that brought us together with Serendipity, we are amazed at the way our connections with people—other cruisers, locals in the many countries we visited, and Tom and Diane—have strengthened our faith in humanity, opened doors of possibility, and somehow made us feel more at home with ourselves, wherever we are.

While all our futures are especially uncertain these days, we're tentatively planning a grand adventure with Serendipity for this fall. We still check in frequently with Tom and Diane.

They assure us, “The right thing will fall into place for you.” We believe they are right. We remain open, ready to once again respond when opportunity knocks. *Not their actual names. They prefer to keep their identity private.

Dana Greyson and her husband, Wayne, live aboard M/V Serendipity in the Portland, Oregon area. When she’s not freelance writing, editing or working on her sailing travel memoir (due out 2021—to learn more, check out her website at www.DanaGreyson.com), you’ll find her hiking, kayaking, or making the best damned berry cobbler you’ll ever eat.

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ISLAND LIFE 2020 A POTPOURRI OF PERSPECTIVES ABOUT CRUISING IN THE SAN JUANS

by Joe Cline

F

or many boaters around the Pacific Northwest, the San Juan Islands are the quintessential destination for summer cruising. Yet, it goes without saying that this year has challenged that notion in all sorts of ways—and not just for boaters. Those who live in the San Juans and run businesses there have navigated the start of the summer cruising season with concern and caution, as well as official closures to outside visitors. Now, closures have given way to the present state in which boaters may cruise the islands more freely, but still with some limitations; and there is a growing understanding of the cautious compromises required to keep communities and individuals safe.

The defining evolution in access, beyond the state-wide Safe Start plan, is that on June 3, 2020, San Juan County Health Officer—Dr. Frank James—signed a new modification to a previous order limiting transient lodging in San Juan County (including marinas). This modification now stipulates that “lodging operators are allowed to operate at 50% capacity, provided they adhere to specific safety guidelines ….”

So, how is it really going in the islands? How different is this year from any other? How are locals, some of whom were vocally resistant to outside visitors a few months ago, feeling about cruising boaters now? And what, generally, is the experience like for visiting cruisers in 2020?

Since we’re at the halfway mark of the cruising season in this most bizarre year, it felt like a good time to look for

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more information and some answers to those questions.

Comprehensive statistics and deeper analysis won’t come until after the season is complete, but here you’ll find various perspectives to paint a picture about the scene in the cherished San Juan Islands thus far in 2020.

CRUISING DYNAMICS Cruising the islands can often encompass two divergent and equally wonderful experiences. On one hand, there are the quaint-but-bustling perennial favorite marinas and towns; and on the other, you have those unsung gunkholes that a cruiser may discover by poking around beyond the list of cruising guide hotspots.

It seems fairly clear that the second type of experience—the explore-off-the-beaten-path version of cruising the islands— is very much intact in 2020. It’s the stops in more well-known cruising destinations that seem to be most affected by the pandemic reality and restrictions.

As a rule, dockside moorage in towns like Friday Harbor on San Juan Island and Deer Harbor on Orcas is less available.

This is not only because of the 50% capacity order, but also because, as Orcas Island resident Mike Miller shared with us, some marinas responded to the capacity reduction for transient moorage by taking on more long-term moorage contracts (which were not limited).

The 50% limitation on marinas means that famous island

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getaway, Roche Harbor Resort, can only accommodate 115 visiting cruising boats. In a normal year, they would welcome 230 boats, according to Roche Harbor Resort General Manager, Brent Snow. While that clearly has an impact on resort experience and economics, it is also leaving significant numbers of cruisers hoping to find overnight moorage looking for other options.

As a result, many of the anchorages near Roche Harbor are much busier than normal, as they become the default accommodation in close proximity for those unable to get a spot at the dock. Both Snow and island residents, John and Amanda Neal, reported that Garrison and Westscott Bays near Roche Harbor were busier on the weekend of July 18-19 than they had ever seen them.

Lindsey Smith, a Port of Friday Harbor employee who lives aboard a boat moored near the ferry track into Friday Harbor with her partner, shares a similar observation in that well-loved destination. “The marina is always full and there are slightly more boats anchored than normal.”

I admit that one of my pandemic hypotheses was that cruisers would choose to anchor out more than normal to avoid touchpoints and stay distanced. It doesn’t seem clear that this is as common an elective choice as I thought it might be, but the reduced dock space means there are more boats anchoring out of necessity, at least near desirable marinas.

Perhaps in support of my anchor-out hypothesis, Chris 48º NORTH

Guidotti, the area manager for San Juan Islands State Parks, said that some change is indicated in that there seems “to be a preference for mooring buoys, but the docks are still filling up as well.” In general, Guidotti notes that, while they don’t have attendance numbers yet, the number of larger boats “appears to be the same or up slightly…. The biggest change seems to be with guided kayaking and commercial use of the parks.

We have seen lower numbers of kayakers and haven’t had as much commercial use. Camping is also down, probably related to the drop in guided kayak trips that are heavy users of our campsites.”

Orcas Island’s Miller shares an observation that reinforces demand for mooring balls after recently zipping between the islands on his Boston Whaler. “Every single mooring buoy anywhere was full.”

Guidotti elaborated that the experience is not identical at all island state parks, however. Looking for compromise with the 50% capacity limitation, “We were able to work directly with the county to get an exemption for the outer islands.” Now, he says they’re “only [at] 50% of our camping/overnight facilities at Spencer Spit, Moran, and Obstruction Pass, and only 50% of the Olga dock is open for overnight use. This has reduced attendance at our parks on ferry served islands.”

Marinas are also struggling to reconcile no-shows for reserved transient slips. With the combination of high demand and limited supply, it is particularly discourteous for cruisers to

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hold a reservation that they do not ultimately use. In response to this problem, Waggoner Cruising Guide publisher, Mark Bunzel, reports that some marinas are considering altering the proportion of their slips designated available for advanced registration, or even eliminating reservations altogether. This is understandable, but may further increase the cruising boat density in anchorages near mooring destinations because cruisers won’t know if they have a slip until they arrive.

Several of our sources pointed out that the closure of the Canadian border means that the islands may be seeing increases in traffic. Roche Harbor’s Snow summed it up, “It's like salmon pressed up against a dam without a fish ladder.”

While that is true, Bunzel has seen that initial worries about a dangerous glut of boats flooding the islands have been somewhat allayed as the season progresses. “In the beginning there was a surge of people wanting to get out boating and get into the islands. Harbors were just packed. I counted 200 boats at Sucia Island in an aerial photo on the weekend of May 9-10, 2020. I think it has backed off a bit now.”

BUSINESS IMPACTS A common question with regard to summer cruising in the islands has to do with the dueling concerns of virus risk and the financial risks associated with reduced or eliminated tourism revenue.

For Rhys Balmer, a Friday Harbor resident and owner of Griffin Bay Adventures, a small business that runs sailing lessons and charters, a difficult decision had to be made. For a little context, his father (who is also an islander) is a doctor with a masters degree in epidemiology, so Balmer has a unique perspective about virus risk. Since many of his clients were coming from other parts of the country, he decided to suspend normal operations. What ultimately drove his decision was a conversation with one of the captains that works for him, centered around the captain’s perspective that by engaging in this kind of work, he was putting his family at risk. Balmer understood and reflected, “As a captain, I'm concerned about the safety of my crew. When people have to go to work in a possibly risky situation, that creates stress.” It wasn’t worth it for him to create such stress for himself and his employees.

Meanwhile, others on the island seem to be striking a safe balance with business operations. Snow emphasizes that at Roche Harbor, “We spend every single day trying to be safe, employees and guests.” He says they’re testing frequently and checking employees' temperatures every day. They are not providing bar entertainment at this time, which “tones down the unconsidered aggregation of humankind.” Snow depicts commitment to caution and acknowledges that there are many sacrifices involved, but is enthusiastic about the resort experience they’re still able to provide. I got the sense that, all things considered, things are going well at Roche Harbor.

One point Balmer made in our conversation represented his view that, “The percentage of people who benefit from tourism is relatively small. Some people who are benefiting from tourism don't even live here. It's just seasonal for many of them.” He also notes that full-time islands residents often 48º NORTH

have other sources of income during the off-season. He is one example, and he’s been pursuing other avenues of work in place of his tourism-driven business—he’s a delivery captain and also works part time with an arborist.

HEALTH, WELL-BEING, AND SAFETY COMPLIANCE At the time of this writing, San Juan County officially reports a total of 24 positive Covid-19 test results. Depending on your perspective, that might sound very low or worryingly high. One thing is clear, there remains great commitment to limiting or even eliminating the spread of the virus in the islands as the season continues.

I’ve been curious whether island residents have evolving feelings about visiting cruisers, considering that the county was unequivocally closed to visitors for the first phase of Governor Inslee’s stay-at-home order.

Friday Harbor residents have mixed feelings. Lindsey Smith says, “There’s no resentment from the locals, and boaters are being really respectful.” Meanwhile, Balmer thinks islanders would generally remind visiting cruisers that, “You're not really isolated here. You're coming to our grocery stores and gas docks.” He says, “I feel for the frontline grocery workers who don't make great wages.” Accordingly, in addition to standard public health guidelines and protocols, he points out that there are ways for boaters to be extra courteous to the island communities. He encourages cruisers to, “Provision for your whole trip ahead of time so you can limit interaction and touchpoints with local personnel.” John and Amanda Neal have found that cruisers are doing their part, saying, “Everyone is wearing masks.”

Mike Miller observes that in some more remote places, people are being more casual with precautions. He noted a recent gathering of people at Jones Island barbequing and cooking crab, while not wearing masks or social distancing.

Hearteningly, Brent Snow reports that unprompted mask use around Roche Harbor is increasing. He just took a brief vacation from the resort and he said that, just in the days he was gone from the resort, “The number of guests wearing masks without being asked to do was up to probably 98%.” This is good news because Mark Bunzell indicated that officials in the islands were watching marinas and hospitality businesses closely for compliance. Snow says their pitch to guests is simple: “Please help Roche Harbor stay open and safe.”

State Parks manager, Guidotti, is hopeful. “We are hoping that we can remain open and available. Current usage should be sustainable as long as people continue to follow CDC, State and local guidelines for Covid.”

All in all, it seems that island communities and cruisers alike are striking a balance between concern, caution, and compromise. I urge cruisers to remain steadfast in our respect and courtesy as we are out on the water, especially when visiting other communities. If we can do this, trust, goodwill, and cruising opportunities should continue to increase.

Joe Cline is the Managing Editor of 48° North.

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SECOND GROWTH

WILDERNESS

ON THE COLUMBIA

by Bruce Bateau

Shantyboat legend, Harlan Hubbard, once wrote of yearning to settle down in "some backcountry beyond the road's end, long ago abandoned or passed over by the expanding world, a second-growth wilderness where undisturbed we could participate in a celebration of the earth and its seasons."

If I didn’t know that Hubbard was a denizen of the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers, I would have assumed he was referring to the Lower Columbia River Estuary. A miles-wide expanse of marshy islands and rain-soaked settlements sandwiched between the working forests of Oregon and Washington, this watery area is a 48º NORTH

definite has-been. Gone are its once vast salmon runs and busy canneries, vanished are the huge trees whose timber kept mills humming; and the furs that once made fortunes are no longer hot commodities.

Still, nature happens: vegetation and wildlife spring back, the river sends fresh mountain water downstream, the tides rise and fall. Like Hubbard, I search for solace in this passed-over land, so rich in life and history. But instead of settling down here, I wander by small boat.

On my last voyage, I circumnavigated the Lewis & Clark and

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of the Columbia into Clifton Channel, bound to the south by a steep forested bluff and the north by the marshy upstream edge of the refuge, Tenasillahe Island. The afternoon inflow wind from the sea was funneling off the bluff and colliding with an outgoing tide, making for slow, splashy sailing as I headed west.

Atop a battered wooden pier on the south shore sat the old Clifton cannery building, its faded brick-red paint hinting at a bright past. But now, as daylight was dwindling, the shadows dominated and the structure’s future seemed uncertain. With waves building over shallow water, sailing was no longer fun, so I dropped sail, pulled out my oars and glided into a slough, where the shallow water was disturbed by only a few ripples. In the distance, a lone duck hunting shack was the only indication of human presence. Despite the howling wind a few hundred feet away, I felt calm here in the thin, murky water. It seemed a tranquil spot to spend the night, so I tossed out an anchor and unrolled my cockpit tent.

The author rows through a community of rustic floating homes.

Julia Butler Hansen National Wildlife Refuges. Their 39,000 acres of marsh, islands, and open water are mostly accessible only by boat—which is just the way I like it. Describing the area, the refuge brochure captures an essential process in the estuary: “Twice a day the islands are part of the land, and twice they are reclaimed by the water as rising tides reverse the river’s current.”

I got a late start, departing around 4:00 p.m. from Cathlamet, Washington, a rustic, small town about 30 miles upriver from the Pacific. Checking for ships, I scooted across the mainstem 48º NORTH

The clouds were so thick in the morning that no sunrise was visible, just a slight brightening in the sky. Slowly, evergreenstudded hills emerged in the distance, and the Sitka spruce and emergent grasses on the islands became distinct. Soon a light wind arose, just enough to sail at about two knots, the perfect speed for watching cormorants, osprey, and otters chasing after fish.

Charts exist for these backwaters, with interesting but troubling notes like, “Prairie Channel is subject to frequent changes.” Small boaters like me, without electronics, have to use their best judgment. I commonly found myself in such shallow water that my centerboard scraped the bottom. Worse, on more than one occasion, in seemingly open water, the whole boat ground to a halt. During one of these incidents, I could see that I was in only six inches of water. Holding onto the painter, I stepped out of the boat to examine my situation. It was unsettling to see Row Bird afloat, unmanned, and completely surrounded by water. With cautious footwork and a little shoving, I got her back into deeper water.

Along the forested mainland shore ran the remains of an old railroad, its tracks periodically emerging from the forest. A few settlements appeared now and then, small clusters of houses

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in varying states of repair, some long abandoned and slowly sinking back into the marsh. But these remnants of human habitation were few in a landscape populated mostly by willow trees and marshy islands, their grasses resembling overgrown lawns partially submerged in water.

Near the western edge of the refuge, I sailed over a sea of grass, the water so shallow that I used a canoe paddle as a rudder. When I reached the John Day River, I navigated around a railroad swing bridge, abandoned partially open, and headed upstream to visit an old friend who lives in a village of floating cabins dating back to the 1930s.

The scene was vibrant, compared to the wildlife refuge, where I’d only seen two boats all day. People sat on waterside porches or tended to chores around their homes or hideouts. Tied to the docks were generations of commercial fishing boats ranging from aluminum gillnetters to old wooden bow-pickers, as well as pleasure craft of all sorts.

The next morning, I headed back upriver and skirted the north edge of the refuge, where the dredged mainstem meets the marsh. Tankers, bulk carriers, and large cruising boats plowed steadily through the water here, which was deep and as well marked as a highway. A nearby buoy leaned seaward with a trailing wake, indicating the direction of the tide. I could not row against it and, finding no wind, I pulled out my binoculars to observe a flock of white pelicans paddle in a tranquil inlet. Ashore, several sat awkwardly on a slight rise, along with a few herons.

As the day warmed, an afternoon breeze blew upriver.

Trading my oars for sail, I headed for the town of Skamokawa, Washington. Founded before any roads served the area, its Victorian-era homes face a network of streams and sloughs. I stopped to talk to a resident about a quiet place to spend the night and was directed upstream. “You can anchor out just past the old net shed,” he advised, as if everyone knew this

Fishing boats sit idle at a dock on the John Day River.

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landmark. The shed was easy to find behind some old pilings, saplings emerging from their rotten tops. Aside from the ruckus emerging from a nearby osprey nest and the call of a coyote, it was a silent night.

At dawn, I was awoken by a chilly breeze and a flickering light.

Curious, I pulled back the flaps of my cockpit tent to watch the sun pierce the trees on a nearby island. Above, quickly moving drifts of fog were illuminated with rays of light, like a Biblical

“Smoke on the water” is a regular occurrence as the sun rises above the Columbia.

painting. Skamokawa was the native people’s word for “smoke on water”; and now, watching the play of fog and light on the river, I couldn’t think of a more appropriate name for the place.

In search of the elusive Columbian white-tailed deer, I spent the rest of the day slowly sailing and rowing upstream through the maze of islands of the Julia Butler Hansen portion of the refuge, where the animals shelter. None were to be found, but I was content to explore the calm channels, with their birds and the occasional aquatic wildflower meadow.

It was my last day out, and I wasn’t excited about going home.

Observing the slow reclaiming by nature of human-made structures made me wonder what my own neighborhood might look like in 100 years. Would Portland still be a thriving town, or would the forest predominate again?

For now, that didn’t matter, I refocused my mind on the winding slough ahead of me, appreciating the second growth wilderness and the human stories that had shaped it. This journey was almost over, but I’d be back to celebrate the seasons here again, to explore the thin waters, to linger in the marsh, and to ponder the turning of the tide.

Bruce Bateau sails and rows traditional boats with a modern twist in Portland, Ore. His stories and adventures can be found at http://www.terrapintales.wordpress.com

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DISCOVERING THE GORGE THE BIRTH OF SMALL BOAT RACING AT CASCADE LOCKS

by Chuck Skewes

The author and crew, Barry Ward, sailing in the inaugural Cascade Locks I-14 Nationals.

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After a day of sailing or weekend of racing at the Columbia River Gorge, more than a few enthusiastic sailors have come off the water with smitten smiles and exuberant quotes along the lines of: "That was so much fun! Best place to sail ever!"

With consistently strong breezes, warm water (by PNW standards, anyway), breathtaking views, and a fun atmosphere, it's no wonder that Cascade Locks and the surrounding area has become a hotspot for wind-seeking sailors over the past few decades.

It’s a world-renowned sailing venue now, playing host to National and World Championship regattas in various classes, as well as "must do" events like Double Damned. But it wasn’t always this way — so, how did it all begin?

W

hen I was in high school, a kid that lived down the street from me on Vashon Island sailed a little bit like me. His parents became dealers for Connelly Sailboards just after the windsurf brand started taking off.

Connelly boards were 12 feet long and heavy; but for a sailpowered craft, they were fast. We both bought one and raced them in fleets around the Seattle area a couple times a year.

That summer, I went commercial fishing in Alaska. On the day I returned, he called me, “There is this place on the Columbia River called The Gorge. It’s windy and has great beaches. Super fun to sail boards there.”

The Columbia River slices a gorge in the topography from the eastern Washington desert to the cold Pacific Ocean. When the desert warms up, the hot air rises and the cool air from western Washington and Oregon and the Pacific blows in below it to fill in the pressure. Funneled through the hills and mountains on either side of the Columbia Gorge, the wind consistently blows hard throughout the summer months. On particularly windy days, locals say it is “Nuking”—perhaps connected to the nuclear reactors up wind on the Columbia River that made people feel that the radiation was blowing through the Gorge.

There’s an added bonus that the current runs against the wind, which makes the beats faster and runs longer.

Back in the days before electronic communication via websites, social media, and email became the norm, the International 14 (I-14) fleet in North America had a protocol to announce the venue of the year’s US National Championship during the Southern California Yachting Association (SCYA) Midwinter Regatta that typically takes place over Presidents Day. Hosting duties alternated between Southern California, Northern California, and the Pacific Northwest (PNW).

In 1991, Nationals was to be held in the PNW, but the specific venue was to be the choice of the PNW International 14 fleet.

Sailors Kris Bundy, Joe Bersch, and I were concerned about attendance, since we had hosted the West Coast Championships a few years earlier at Shilshole on Labor Day and did not get a single race off in three windless days.

Many of our friends were regular windsurfers and frequently made the trek down from Seattle to The Gorge. They talked about a place that was usually not quite as windy as upriver areas like “Swell City” and Hood River. I asked them if they thought we could sail International 14s there, and most thought it was possible. The place they suggested was Home Valley, about 15 miles west of Hood River on the Washington side.

There was a state park right on the water and the river was wide at that point. We learned that the Hobie fleet had put on a few regattas there in the past.

In the winter of 1990 while our I-14 fleet had not yet made a decision, we made plans to head to the SCYA Midwinters in

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Alamitos Bay. I stopped in for a burger and beer at the 74th Street Ale House on Phinney Ridge to find Kris Bundy, Ken Monaghan, and Joe Bersch sitting at the bar. After being significantly overserved and telling each other how great we were at sailing in heavy wind, we discussed holding the 1991 International 14 Nationals at Home Valley in The Gorge. I believe I even wrote down the plan on a bar napkin.

The next morning, I remembered most of the conversation and decided to call the guys to see if we were just boasting or we should really try to make it happen. We agreed it would be a great event, and announced it to the local fleet. Ken Monaghan and I would be the event organizers and put all the logistics together.

We made the announcement at Midwinters and the entire fleet was excited. Then, reality set in that we had better figure out how our location would work out.

Ken called the Washington State Parks Department and got all the permit applications. The Parks Department required large insurance policies, would not let us serve alcohol, and had restrictions about how and where to store the boats when they were not sailing. Ken also contacted Cascade Locks—across the river and a few miles down from Home Valley—which was the closest location where we could keep a committee boat for the event.

In March of 1991 durning a nice weekend stretch of weather, I grabbed some friends and decided to go to the area and see how the place could work first-hand. We packed up tents and camping gear and three-and-a-half hours later were at Home Valley. It was beautiful. Then I went to the water to check out the launching.

It was a decently-protected shoreline, but was very shallow out about 100 yards to where it was not as protected. While walking up and down the beach trying to find a better spot in the freezing river, I started to panic. In a few months, we were going to have 25 International 14s with extremely delicate hulls, daggerboards, and rudders trying to launch and retrieve in 18 to 25 knots of wind with a rocky shallow beach. I could not find a solution!

After a few hours of freaking out, I decided to go over to Cascade Locks where we had made arrangements to moor the committee boat. It was across the Bridge of the Gods, whose resemblance seemed closer to an erector set than a deific bridge. Pulling into Cascade Locks, I immediately found good news. The marina was well protected. And when I walked to the far side, there was a beach protected from the wind with a grassy slope. It was also fairly deep water and it only took me a few seconds to realize that this was a far superior spot and would actually work!

I went into the nearby office that sold tickets to the sternwheeler and did camping reservations. I asked the person

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at the desk if she thought it would be ok if we had 25 sailboats on the beach for a few days. She said, “I don’t see why not, but let me call the mayor.”

She dialed, explained what I was asking about, and handed the phone to me. The mayor and I chatted about the potential event and he loved the idea. When I asked if having beer in the campground would be an issue, he simply said, “Not if you don’t make it an issue.”

After I got home from the trip and had notified everyone about the change of location, I got a call from the mayor at home. He told me that they would like to provide a dinner for our group as a welcome and thank you for bringing sailboat racing to Cascade Locks. They paid for a catered salmon dinner for the entire fleet at the campground.

The event went off very well. It was a classic Gorge regatta with winds from 18-25 knots, air temperatures in the 80s, water temperature close to the same, and lots of tight racing. It was such a fantastic experience that California sailors began saying a now-common refrain: “It is hard to drive by the Gorge to head to anywhere else for a regatta.” In the end, fleet stalwarts Kris Bundy and Jamie Hanseler showed their skill and came out on top to win the 1991 National Championships.

The one memorable hiccup was that we could not find blank shells for the shotgun PRO Werner Holmes used on the committee boat. So, he used live ammo. Reportedly, a few bird pellets rained down on one group of hikers, but fortunately no one was hurt.

The International 14 Fleet has a rule that requires one “Long Distance” race for a separate trophy at the National events. The one we did at Cascade Locks was a downwind start to Home Valley and back, twice around. To this day, that is one of the best races I ever sailed.

A few years after that original event, the Columbia Gorge Racing Association was formed by Portland’s Kerry Poe. Since then, The Gorge has become a world-renowned small boat racing venue and has been the site of many National and even World Championships—including Tasars, Melges 24s, 505s, Moths, 49ers, and many more. The Gorge is now home to other races, including the infamous Double Damned race from Cascade Locks to The Dalles—a route that was initially famous with windsurfers but now draws every type of small boat from around the West Coast.

The Columbia River Gorge never disappoints. There’s plenty to do for the non-racer and some of the most scenic surroundings anywhere (with, among other things, the world’s largest concentration of waterfalls). It is family-friendly, welcoming, and a must-do for any sailor. And, it has a special place in the hearts of the International 14 racers who first helped connect sailors with the racing venue in Cascade Locks.

Chuck Skewes is a Vashon Island native who owns West Coast Ullman Sails Lofts in Anacortes, San Diego, and Puerto Vallarta. He’s a highly sought-after public speaker and professional sailor.

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DESTINATION

Portland

by Andy Cross

A FAMILY VOYAGE UP THE COLUMBIA RIVER

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isps of fog skimmed across the Columbia River and patches of baby blue sky appeared overhead in the morning light. Heading eastward, we nosed Yahtzee’s bow into the roiling water of the river where a flood tide and outflowing current opposed one another, creating dancing whirlpools.

It was day five since crossing the infamous Columbia River Bar and, with each passing moment, our cruising education on this immense waterway was evolving. Before coming to the Columbia, I’d read a lot about boating on the river and picked the brains of local mariners. But, as always, what accelerated our knowledge more than anything was just being there — experiencing the river’s twists and turns and many moods.

This early April day was going to get unseasonably warm, and with that warmth, I expected the wind would come. Sure enough—it appeared a mere trickle at first, pitting cats' paws from the west against the opposing flow of water heading towards the sea. Less than an hour later, we were surging upriver past budding trees and sandy beaches with the genoa out in a full-blown thermal.

Our destination for the day was yet to be determined, but our crew didn’t mind. There are numerous places to stop along the river and, though Portland was our ultimate goal, we were excited to discover all the places in between as well. Plus, we were ahead of schedule—which almost never happens.

THE COLUMBIA RIVER PLAN In the winter of 2016 while living and cruising around the San Juan and Gulf Islands, dreary winter days had Jill and me daydreaming about our spring cruising and racing plans. We knew we wanted to head north into British Columbia for the summer, but where could we go and what could we do before then?

An idea was soon hatched: We’d sail down to the Columbia River in early April, cruise up the river as far as time allowed, and then come back down to Astoria and start the Oregon Offshore Race on May 15. The finish line is in Victoria, so we’d be poised to continue north from there. Perfect!

It seemed ambitious yet simple to us and, just like that, the wheels of adventure were set into motion.

From the get-go, the make-or-break part of this plan was going to be weather. Getting out the Strait of Juan de Fuca and down the coast of Washington and then over the Columbia River Bar unscathed can be a tall task at any time of year, let alone in April. With the uncertainty of spring weather, I’d hoped at the very least that we could get down from the Salish Sea to cross “The Bar” with enough time to explore the lower section of the river as far up as Cathlamet. If we could go farther east than that—hopefully up to Portland—it would be a win.

With that in mind, we began watching the weather in late March and before we knew it, a near perfect window opened up. When it did, we left Friday Harbor, hopped to Port Angeles and then out to Neah Bay. After a night’s rest, we departed in the early morning hours on the last day of March and arrived in Astoria after a glorious passage slightly over 24-hours later. We could hardly believe we’d made it down so soon, which meant we had nearly a month-and-a-half to cruise the river before the starting gun fired.

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THE PLACES IN BETWEEN Riding the last of the thermal breeze, evening was upon us and a decision needed to be made about where to stop for the night. While rounding Crims Island, I reread tips I’d received from a reader about a quirky riverside retreat with transient moorage called Batwater Station. A quick call had me on the phone with Karin Hunt—who owns the property with her husband, Michael Tillson—and she said they had plenty of room to accommodate us before texting me a small chart with pilot notes on it for reaching their docks.

The notes were accurate, more so than our charts anyway, and had us tracking directly over a spot on Navionics that was labeled as dry when the tide is out. Karin and a few fishermen were waiting dockside to catch our lines in the wicked current.

After a quick hello, she swept us up for a tour of the property and its numerous amenities.

She and Michael purchased this 60-acre waterfront parcel of wetlands and pasture in the early 1990s and have since transformed it from a derelict farm on the river to a beautiful property that they graciously share with passing boaters for a nominal fee (we paid $30 for the night). When they bought it, the pilings were broken off and almost everything was unusable, including the abandoned main house. Over the past few decades they have completely renovated the old pier, added 320 feet of linear dock space, a gorgeous floating home and a boathouse that houses a fully restored 1946 Shain Cabin Cruiser named Merlin.

Serene and beautiful, Batwater Station makes for a perfect stop along the river.

After a relaxing time at Batwater, it was hard to leave but we were excited to continue our river cruising adventure towards downtown Portland, 50 miles upriver. Back on the Columbia, the sun shined and, before long, a beautiful westerly breeze once again helped us along. This stretch of the river is a bit more industrial than the lower Columbia, with ships tied to moorings; and at one point it seemed like we were sailing on the highway, as heavily trafficked I-5 was just off our port side.

Making the schedule up as we went along, we opted to stop for the night at Sand Island Marine Park near St. Helens, Oregon, which is a small island across the channel from town. Gone was

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A gateway to downtown Portland, the St. Johns Bridge stretches across the Willamette River.

the industrial feel from a few miles downstream and we played in the sand, walked trails through a forest in full bloom, and kicked a soccer ball next to the swiftly flowing Columbia.

From St. Helens, boaters headed upriver have two choices: you can go back out into the Columbia or hang a right into Multnomah Channel—which is a faster, more scenic route towards the Willamette River and eventually downtown Portland.

Our eyes were trained towards downtown, so Multnomah Channel was an easy choice. Veering into the channel, salmon fishermen were out in full force for the first few miles, but once past them, we revelled in the gorgeous scenery and unique floating home communities. With mainland Oregon to starboard and Sauvie Island to port, Portland was drawing ever closer and we were thrilled to reach this milestone.

PORTLAND ACHIEVED Sunny skies and another helpful following breeze pushed us along as we motor-sailed Yahtzee up the Willamette River, under the St. Johns Bridge, and into downtown. Like clockwork, the bridge tenders had us through and, after one tense dispute between a bridge tender about the height of our mast, we were tying up in Portland. (Yahtzee’s mast height is 56 feet and the river was up 8 feet, so we needed to make sure that all of our math was correct. Fortunately, it was.)

Landing in downtown was immensely exciting for our entire crew. Just a month prior, making it all the way up to Portland had seemed so distant (possibly unattainable) in our time frame.

After covering over 100 miles along the river between Astoria and Portland, we felt as though we’d gotten a real taste of what cruising this section of the river was about—and we loved it.

After getting Yahtzee setup on the public dock at Riverplace, we headed out for a walk around the city and treated ourselves to dinner out. The next day we set off to run a few errands and stumbled upon a kids’ event in Pioneer Square. It was one of those truly spontaneous things that comes with cruising.

Porter and Magnus had a blast playing with make-shift musical instruments, oversized wooden blocks, and a big mound of clay and flowers.

Portland’s legendary Saturday Market was just blocks from the boat and between the impressive people watching, rhythmic drum circles, guy swallowing fire, and all the locallymade products, there was plenty to see and do. The market also had an excellent assortment of food trucks to choose from and a variety of talented musicians.

Since Jill and I went to the University of Oregon, many of our 48º NORTH

college friends reside in Portland and it was fun to meet up with them at various places around the city. We also arranged for a group of them to join us for a sail to experience a side of Portland that they usually don’t. The day began with light breezes and overcast skies, but we made the best of it and ended up getting enough wind to move Yahtzee around the Willamette. By mid-afternoon, the sun was shining and it was memorable to entertain old pals and show them a small window into how we live on a 40-foot sailboat.

With downtown Portland sufficiently explored, we decided to check out another side of the city and moved out to various spots in north Portland. Our favorite was Government Island.

The island is a large park located under and past the I-205 bridge. It is only accessible by boat. When we arrived on a Friday evening, there were a few Hunter sailboats there for their annual safety cruise, and we were welcomed with open arms. The stretch of gorgeous spring weather continued over the weekend and anything to do with the water was what the boys wanted to be doing. They dipped their toes in the river, threw rocks, played in the sand, splashed in buckets of water on the dock, and made quick friends with other sailors.

GETTING RACE READY While cruising around Portland was fun, new, and exciting, we were also well aware that a race was looming and we needed to start thinking about getting Yahtzee ready and headed back down river. Switching from full-on cruising mode to working on the boat in relatively unknown places, we made a punch list and began to chip away at projects large and small.

The gracious Portland Yacht Club became our homebase for over a week while we began to make preparations for the race.

Then, at Danish Marine on Hayden Island, Yahtzee came out of the water for a bottom scrub, topside wash and wax, rudder check, and to replace the shaft seal on the saildrive. With the boat on the hard, we went through the Oregon Offshore Safety Equipment Recommendations one last time and picked up the remaining pieces of safety gear to satisfy race regulations.

Seemingly in the blink of an eye, it was go-time. My dad flew in to join us for the trip back down the river and the race, and we contrasted our slow upriver pace with a blast down to the ocean. With the Columbia flowing at a powerful 3-plus knots, we covered the 100-mile stretch in just two big day-hops, and settled into a slip in Astoria to put Yahtzee in race mode, enjoy the pre-race camaraderie and festivities, and explore more of town.

When race day dawned and we made our way out to the starting line at sunrise, a small part of me couldn’t help but look over my shoulder up the mighty Columbia one last time. We’d made it farther than we thought we would, met some great people, experienced a whole new cruising scene, and learned a lot along the way. It wasn’t a “Goodbye” but rather, “See you next time.”

After spending nearly three years cruising Alaska, Andy and his family sailed south for warmer climes and have been in Mexico since fall 2019.

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THE SALISH 200

A NEW EVENT IS BORN The Salish 200 was born over some Friday night beers near Port Townsend; at least that’s the story as I know it. In fact, many of the best races have started just that way.

The owners of the Seattle-based J/125 Hamachi had just delivered the boat to Mats Mats Bay on the way to Port Townsend when it occurred to everyone that it was pretty great to finally get back on the water this spring, and it was tempting to head out into the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Between Jason Andrews, Shawn Dougherty, and Matt Pistay—who were all part of the team that won Transpac overall aboard Hamachi in 2019—they started working out the numbers for an unofficial adventure race. I’m going to guess that Northwest veteran racer (and Matt’s Dad), Bob Pistay, had a hand in the scheme as well.

After checking the charts, they realized that it’s almost exactly 100 miles around the San Juan Islands and back to Port Townsend. AND it just so happens that it is the same distance around Vashon Island and back. They knew that each of those 100 miles sounded like fun, and many local racers are familiar with them, but putting them together for a 200 mile endurance race was another thing altogether.

The dynamics of the race meant you could choose to go south first or north first, and you could round the islands either direction (clockwise or counter-clockwise). After some reflection, it was amended that you could also just finish after your first 100. Per Phase 2 guidelines, crews were to be restricted to five people or fewer.

With a limit of 25 boats, many of the coolest race boats on Puget Sound jumped in right away. As you might guess, there was much debate about the strategy of which way to go. It’s hard to say whether it was a new race concept or the fact that so few folks had been on a boat race recently—regardless, there was undeniable excitement coming into the event.

The race started at 7:00 p.m. on Friday night, June 26th, with a short line between the Pistay’s powerboat and the Northwest Maritime Center dock. It was blowing 20 knots off the beam and predicted to build, so all of the boats that were headed north first had reefs in before the start.

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Most of us were a bit conservative, knowing that there was not enough start line for all of the boats. If you were barging the line, the pin end was a dock and ultimately the beach. It was actually quite civilized, and quite a spectacle at the same time. Twenty-two of the twenty-five boats went north first and enjoyed an incredible reach across the end of the Strait on the first leg. On Lodos, and throughout most of the northerly fleet, we were fully powered up with small jibs and reefs, but eventually shook out the reefs around Smith Island. The fleet went to kites in Rosario Strait, and ultimately went to drifters as it got dark, and kept them handy through most of the night.

Most crews enjoyed some version of the traditional beach party near the Peapod Rocks on the east side of Orcas Island.

On Lodos, we had a stealthy drifter run right along the Orcas shoreline enjoying the clear, starry night. Some boats spent more time in the Peapods than others, but we all had a good chance to enjoy that area of the course.

Once we cleared the northwest corner of Orcas Island, our kite was up and drawing until morning. We swapped to a headsail, and kept evading the dreaded tide line behind us. There was a bit of drifting again until we finally cleared Lime Kiln Point on San Juan Island and broke free in the Strait.

It was another great day in the Strait with wind in the 20 knot range and plenty of sunshine. Lots of sweet zooms were had, and we kept cracking off until we could hoist the kite and run with the swells. Pinch me—it was kind of perfect! The wind held all the way to Marrowstone Lighthouse for the halfway or 100 mile race finish. We crossed at 1:47 on Saturday afternoon.

At that point, many boats were looking at the unfavorable Puget Sound forecast—which looked bad for wind and worse for rain and lightning—and just called it there. Some boats likely had crew vehicles in Port Townsend, and others who reside in the North Sound may not have wanted to sail slowly away from their home ports as the weekend waned.

A handful of boats continued down the Sound to try to make all 200 miles in the allowed 50 hour window. We had a LOT of hours left before the time limit, after all. The wind faded away

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to a slow drift with the tide, and the drizzle started as we passed the Double Bluff area on Whidbey. Then, we saw Ocelot headed north. Ocelot was one of the few boats that went south first, and was one of the two finishers of the Salish 200. Several boats got stuck near Point No Point in the kelp and cut their losses.

By late Saturday afternoon, Lodos and crew were slowly drifting past Shilshole, which you could barely make out through the fog and rain, and it was time to make some choices.

We knew that Dark Star was around Vashon and headed back up Colvos and we knew that Ocelot was headed out into the Strait.

We closely watched Gray Wolf on AIS, because we knew they went south first and were nearing the halfway point. As we watched Gray Wolf, we felt the true concept of the race. Could we get around Vashon, up Colvos and back to Port Townsend before Gray Wolf made it around the San Juan Islands and back?! They had a lot more miles to go, but definitely more wind in their forecast. There really is a fun challenge in going opposite directions.

In the end, Ocelot and Dark Star went opposite directions and ultimately both finished the full 200 miles. Dark Star got the win, going north first. Johnathan McKee and Matt Pistay raced double-handed, which is truly amazing.

Shortly after dinner on Saturday we saw that Gray Wolf stopped at Marrowstone after 100 miles. We crossed paths with Dark Star going north near Blake Island, and knew that we were on our own.

After some soul searching and crew compromise, we decided to keep going through the night in our own race against time.

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We still had over 24 hours left, half of the time limit, and we were at the north end of Vashon Island. The breeze came up in Commencement Bay and we dropped to the #3 jib at 1:00 a.m. on Sunday.

We had high hopes, right until we hit Colvos Passage. Our agreement was that if we were still in Colvos with no wind in sight at 8:00 in the morning, then we weren’t likely to make the time limit and we would drop out. At 7:45 a.m., I came up on deck to find no wind, thick fog, and rain in Colvos Passage.

We passed around a taste of liquid sunshine in the dampened morning light and hugged it out, rolled the main, and headed back to Shilshole—160 miles out of 200 was still a good first run.

Finishing the Salish 200 is possible, and it’s a significant challenge for mere mortals. Those are two very different 100mile stretches of sailing, but it was a fun challenge that we would try again. It was great to get the crew back together. The start and the first leg were legendary, as was the day two run in the Strait.

Congratulations to Dark Star and Ocelot. It turns out that another boat stayed out on the course longer than our crew on Lodos. Hats off to Mike Murphy and crew on Semper Quarens for sticking it out until 5:30 p.m. on Sunday to finish the San Juan 100. Well done, racers and organizers. A new great event is born!

By Stephanie Campbell Results at 48north.com

BOAT JUNK WE ♥ BOAT JUNK

Thurs–Fri, 10–3 Located in the Boat Haven Clean out your garage or workshop and contribute your unused tools & hardware.

We are a 5013c so your donations are tax deductible.

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315B Haines PL Port Townsend 360.3879.5807 info@marinethrift.com

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Crossword and Trivia

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Hawaii contains more than 8,800 varieties of plants and animals that are found nowhere else on earth.

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ACROSS 1 Large headsail 6 Make a knot, e.g.

8 Perpendicular to a ship's length 9 Receding ocean motion 10 Squeaky wheel's need 11 Lead-in for "sees" or "seas" 12 Shipyard repair ramp 15 Make taut 18 Sandy hills 19 Early afternoon 20 Deviate from course 23 Underwater features 25 That girl or that boat 27 Space 29 Transport boat 30 Seaside pools 33 Letter of credit, abbr.

34 Part of G.M.T. 35 Navigation technology 36 Lively

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The advent of regular steamboat travel between the East and West Coasts began in 1849 when the steamship California arrived in San Francisco from New York carrying goldseekers.

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1 Shipshape 2 Awesome glacial sight 3 Verne skipper 4 Boat beams 5 What you might do in drydock- make anew 6 They blow behind you 7 Hurricane center 13 "Aye" at sea 14 Blustery 16 Helm heading, abbr.

17 It can point on a dashboard 21 Exist 22 Globe 24 Indications 26 It might be due 28 Free Willy animal 29 A long way 31 Battery size 32 Paddle

The two largest landlocked sounds in the United States, Albemarle and Pamlico, are in North Carolina.

When the Cuyahoga River in Cleveland, Ohio, caught fire in 1969, it inspired the Clean Water Act of 1972. Fifty years later, in 2019, it was named America’s “River of the Year” by the American Rivers Conservation Association.

Lake Mead in Nevada is the largest artificial lake and reservoir in the United States.

The five states that border the Gulf of Mexico have a coastal span of 1,680 miles.

Great Salt Lake in Utah is the largest lake west of the Mississippi River.

Shiprock Peak, a rock formation in New Mexico, is so named because it resembles a 19thcentury clipper ship.

During the Civil War, the U.S. Navy patrolled 3,000 miles of coastline to enforce a blockade of southern ports.

Solution on page 50

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Point Udall, St. Croix, in the U.S. Virgin Islands, is the easternmost point in the United States; while Point Udall in Guam is the westernmost point in the United States.

Although Rhode Island is the smallest state, it has more than 400 miles of coastline. Known as the Ocean State, you can never be more than 30 minutes from saltwater in Rhode Island.

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by Bryan Henry

Hawaii is the only tropical state, the only state completely surrounded by water, and is the only state not part of North America. It’s part of Oceania, a region of Pacific islands including Tonga, French Polynesia, and Australia, among others.

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DID YOU KNOW?

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CLASSIFIEDS RESTORED THUNDERBIRD Over $50,000 invested. Amazing fiberglass hull # 1002, Thunderbird sailboat. This boat is set up to race and cruise and has everything restored and brand new. It was completely restored in 2017. Originally Built in 1972. Brand new full set of Ullman Sails. New wiring and electronics package. New paint and hardware throughout. $12,995. tracy@anchorbaymtg.com

Photo by: Umberto Gorni

1994 16' POULSBO 16’ Poulsbo boat with trailer. Epoxy/glass over cedar strip. Beta marine diesel 13.5 hp. Interior and engine installation professionally done. About 150 hours on engine, wintered in garage. $12,000. Contact Erica: erica.pickett@comcast.net or (360) 293-6264.

THE PERFECT CRUISING SAILORS PACKAGE 1993 Pacific Seacraft 34, with full offshore setup located in the best condominium moorage in Anacortes. Live-aboard moorage included in price.

Call or email for more information: wassail34@aol.com (360) 298-8416. $320,000.

NEWPORT 33 1982 Isolate yourself on this gorgeous red hull with black canvas and full cockpit enclosure! Extensive sail inventory for racing. New depth/speed, lifelines, bottom paint. Live aboard ready with minor upgrades. Has refrigeration, heat, radar. Solid Universal 25 HP diesel. $22,500 More info/photos at bainbridgepropertysales.com/boat On Bainbridge: David (206) 714-4300 davidparker@windermere.com

CT 41 KETCH (1974) LIVEABOARD OR CRUISER On Multnomah Channel in Portland. Very comfortable ocean sailing vessel. Good fuel and drinking water capacity. Lots of storage. FRP hull, Teak decking, 75 hp Volvo Penta diesel (low hours), Aluminum Masts, Windlass, shower, Radar, VHF, Five Sails. $32,000.

Call Bob at (503) 309-3097 or AEALLC@Comcast.net

Cal 2-29 Cruising Sailboat 36' JOUET MOTORSAILOR Great sturdy, dry, cruiser. Built in France 1983. Sailed to many places in NW and Mediterranean. Has berths for 6+.

New Vetus diesel and rebuilt saildrive. Solar panels. New sail and wheel covers. GPS, VHF, Radar, DS. Cruising spinnaker.

Newer dinghy w 2HP motor. Will sell outright or consider a 1/3 or 1/2 partnership. Elliot Bay Marina. $29,950.00 Scott (425) 802 4120.

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PASSPORT 40 1983 World Capable Cutter Rigged Passport 1983 Refurbished at $20K in 2018. Newer equipment: Heat exchanger, transmission, cutlass bearing, stove/ own, refrig/freeze, watermaker, autopilot, radar, water heater. Large sail inventory, Icom HF, VHF, GPS. Located Orcas Island, Wa. $130,000. For more info call (360) 632-8896.

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The Cal 2-29 is both comfortable and stable, with upgrades to make her more comfortable for cruisuing. Her interior layout is simple, and spacious. Her hull with fin keel and spade rudder is in excellent shape, no blisters. Standing and running rigging in good shape. $16,900.

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1995 NONSUCH 26 SAILBOAT 1995 Hinterhoeller Nonsuch 26' Classic with freestanding carbon fiber mast. North Spectra racing sail, dodger with extras. Located on Lake Coeur d’Alene in Idaho. Yanmar 2GM-2-cylinder diesel engine, well maintained. Two cabins sleep 4. More details on request. $35,000.upwindsailor@comcast.net / (509) 993-1732.

1996 VANCOUVER 42 Professionally built cold molded hull. Heavily built for offshore cruising, but would be a beautiful live aboard vessel, fully insulated. Sails in excellent condition, roller furled headsails. S.S. keel, all tankage in stainless. Excellent 2019 survey, haul out 2020.

Will consider smaller boat as part payment. $36,900. www.warmlandsailing.com Doug (250) 746-5257.

CAL 31 SAIL “The Lapworth designed Cal 31 was one of the best designed and better executed 31-footers…Her interior is remarkable…[feels like] a 40-foot interior.” Home waters for this sail #73 (1979) was in So. Cal for 30 years, now Port Townsend. New dodger & cockpit canopy.

Refreshed brightwork. AIS, radio, etc. See Craigslist for more details. Leslie@roubalmapping.com. $15,000.

TRINE W9 - RARE CLASSIC WOODEN RACER/CRUISER Built in 1941, Trine has been fully restored, upgraded with modern equipment and lovingly maintained since relaunched in 2008. Showcased in the Norwegian American www.norwegianamerican.com/boats-arealive/ Now available to the discerning sailor who doesn’t mind people interrupting to say “She is the prettiest boat in the harbor”. Email geoboggs@gmail.com for description and inventory. $86,500.

1972 SPARKMAN & STEPHENS YANKEE 38 S&S designed Yankee 38, IOR One Ton. 11 Ft beam, 6 ft draft, 16000 lbs displ, lead keel, beefy solid fiberglass hull, balsa core deck, racer/cruiser, 6ft+ headroom, sleeps 6, galley, head, shower, North full batten main, 3 Lidgard mylar jibs, roller furling, North and Lidgard spinnakers, graphite pole, all new standing rigging, 27 hp yanmar 3gm30 diesel, Max-Prop, Balmar, Fortress anchors, Livingston, dodger, GPS, Steve 206-462-9026. $22,000.

1970 GRAND BANKS HIN 213 Classic – last of the woodies! 1970 Grand Banks 42', documented vessel. HIN 213 wood. Second owner selling.

Cat 3306 diesel rebuilt in 2015, single screw. Unusual portside saloon entertainment center. Northstar 6100i integrated nav system, Espar heater, 3kw Onan. Flybridge helm complete with enclosure. Trolling gear. Negotiable but no trades. Deception Pass (360) 675-7900. $39,995

CATALINA MORGAN 440 2006, Yanmar 4jh4-TE 1700 hrs, gen set 650 hrs, bow thruster, 20 gph watermaker, 10' dinghy/4 hp outboard davit mounted, freezer, frig, propane 3 burner/oven, toaster oven, Raymarine 12 chartplotter/radar, depth, wind, compass, dodger/bimini w/ connector, Max prop, wing lead 8,900 lb keel, 2 chargers, invertor/charger.

Jeff Bice: j_bice@comcast.net. $210,000.

1989 C&C 30 Solid & capable racer/cruiser. Circumnavigated Vancouver Island in 2008. Yanmar 16 hp diesel. Refrig/freezer, diesel heater, 2 burner propane stove with oven, audio system, 1000W inverter. Speed, depth, wind, radar, VHF, GPS. Furling 150% jib, cruising spinnaker, nearly new working jib, 2 anchors. New bottom paint. Located Lopez Island, WA. jstrathman@aol.com (719) 598-5240. $29,000.

J-36 SAILBOAT J-36 Sailboat, includes racing and cruising sail packages and everything else that goes with it. Newer electrical, electronics, 3 burner stove/w oven, and bottom paint.

A proven trophy winner and a good solid boat. Call Joe Bartlett (360) 739-3380 or Dawn Durand (360) 739-3380. $25,000 to good home only.

1990 PACIFIC SEACRAFT CREALOCK 34 CUTTER 2018 survey: “Bristol Condition”. Recent Hasse sails, new Toss standing rigging, extensive canvas, new Webasto forced air furnace, new head, new Lofrans Tigres wireless electric windlass, new Xantrex charger, Yanmar 3200 hrs, recent transmission rebuild, hauled 2019 (bottom paint, cutlass bearing, engine shaft alignment, prop tune), fresh brightwork 2020, extensive spares. Port Townsend, WA. TR750tt@gmail.com $94,000.

1967 ISLANDER 21’ Complete refit/refurbish 2010. New Honda 5 2019 (2hrs). Roomy V-birth and nice little cabin w/ galley.

Includes trailer with new tires/rims. All redone cushions and upholstery. 2 jibs, 160% genny, storm sail, new tanbark Main 2015. 5W Solar panel w/ smart regulator.

Much more included. Take it all. Slip possible. Dinghy also for sale. For more info contact Chuck Johnson: chuck@kinnik.com or (360) 379-0963. $6,500.

WESTSAIL 32 New engine, tanks, sails, head, roller furling. Many extras. $45,000. For more info call (206) 290-9660.

48º NORTH

48

AUGUST 2020

BOATS FOR SALE

BOAT WANTED

PROFESSIONAL SERVICES Full service rig shop serving the Puget Sound

6327 Seaview Ave NW Seattle, WA 98107

Cliff Hennen - (206) 718-5582

PACIFIC SEACRAFT 25 CLASSIC SMALL SHIP 1976 centerboard model, 2012 8hp Honda o.b. in well. Single owner/boatbuilder beautifully upgraded.

Equip. includes tankage, pumps, blowers, VHF radio, compass & depth finder, anchors. New bottom paint, zincs, engine overhaul, 2 burner alcohol stove, toilet, battery & charger, running rigging, shore power system. 3 headsails, whisker pole, & 2-reef main. Dave 206-331-0287 acadiendave@gmail.com. $21,500.

MARINE EQUIPMENT

WANTED: KELLY PETERSON 44 Looking to buy a Kelley Peterson 44 in the Pacific Northwest, Canada preferred. courtney@cdedwards.com

ADVERTISE WITH 48° NORTH PRICE PER MONTH $25 - ONLINE $45 - ONLINE + PRINT 75 WORDS 5 PHOTOS WITH SERVICES ONLINE PROFESSIONAL 1 PHOTO WITH PRINT

BRAND NEW MUSTANG MEN'S MERIS SPRAY TOP Mustang Men’s Meris Spray Top. Size large, Red color.

Never used with manufacture’s tag attached. Neoprene cuffs around neck and wrists to seal out water. Water tight entry zipper at neck. Water tight zippered pockets.

Contact Dave at: 206-245-4774. $280.44

INSTRUCTION

• Basic through Advanced Sailing Lessons • Week-long Cruise & Learn lessons • Spinnaker, Intro and Advance Racing Classes Gill foulweather gear & Dubarry footwear

206-782-5100

QUESTIONS? CLASSADS48@48NORTH.COM

PROFESSIONAL SERVICES

7001 Seaview Ave NW Suite 130 (Shilshole Bay Marina in Port of Seattle Building)

V E SS E L M OV I N G

1.5too inch =$60/month No ocean big, no trip too small, Classified no shipBusiness too large, no mast ad too tall, 2016 March issue sail or power, we movePROOF them all!!!

When you are ready, give us a call.

Professional service since 1967.

CappyTom@aol.com

PROFESSIONAL SERVICES (206) 390-1596

BYR

MARINAS

6327Gateway SeaviewtoAve the NW San Juans Seattle, WA 98107 34’ - 50’ slips for lease/purchase Free Wifi, Pumpouts & Showers, Fuel, Store /Café

Phone (206) 789-7350

Fax (206) 789-6392 (360) 371-0440 • semiahmoomarina.com

LIBERTY BAY MARINA 40’ - 48’ - 60’ open slips.

Great location in Poulsbo, WA Restrooms, Showers.

In town rental slips w/security gates, mini storage,

Tim Huse 206-354-9039 tim@ballardyachtrigging.com

V E SS E L M OV I N G

No ocean tooCLUBS big, no trip too small, no ship too large, no mast too tall, sail or power, we move them all!!!

1945 When you are ready, give us2020 a call.

The Best Racing in the Northwest • On1967. the Lake Professional service since

CappyTom@aol.com (206) 390-1596

or Sound • Active Cruising • Reciprocal Rights Corinthian Yacht Club of Seattle 7755 Seaview Ave. NW, Seattle, WA 98117 Phone (206) 789-1919 for information www.cycseattle.org

SLOOP TAVERN YACHT CLUB 2442 NW Market St. #94, Seattle, WA 98107 “Established in Ballard since 1976” • STANDING & RUNNING $90 Annual Dues - ReciprocalRIGGING Moorages • LIFELINES High quality sailing at theRAILINGS lowest cost & CABLE For more info call Mike at&(206) 265-9459 • CUSTOM SPLICING ROPE SALES • NEW MASTS & CUSTOM PROJECTS

AUGUST 2020

I R C LO

Contact: Jo-Ann: 416-924-0423 • Foot=21.48ft •Mid-Girth: 21.86ft full service boat yard, fuel dock & pump out on site. * Learn to Sail in 5 Days!

Email: jabrehm@pathcom.com Anacortesmarina.com or (360) 293-4543 • Two red/green sheets - 70-75ft to StUdent ratio in Seattle 4• 8 ºloweSt N O RinStrUCtor TH 49 * Perfect for yachts 36 to 40 feet • HigHeSt qUality fleet in tHe paCifiC nortHweSt •Asking $2495.00

Standing Rigging • Running Rigging • Electronics Splicing • Furlers • Lifelines • Inspections • Plumbing Hydraulics • Troubleshooting • Power Boats, Too

Y IL LL SA BA O L

Espar Eberspächer

Ballard Yacht Rigging

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NORTH SAILS G1 AP GENNAKER NorLon/NO 75: with Snuffer/Sock 6327 Seaview Ave NW NORTH SAILS G1 AP GENNAKER Only owner superb new condition.

360-779-7762 or 360-509-0178 Seattle, WA 98107 Built for 36 C&C Invader III. NorLon/NO 75: with Snuffer/Sock • Luff = 40.02ft • Leed = 35.49ft • U• pFoot to 50% off US Sailing leSSonS Only owner superb new condition.

- 21.48ft • Mid-Girth: 21.86ft Phone (206) 789-7350 ANACORTES MARINA on •Brand ew 2018 sheets Capri 22’ S Two n red/green - 70-75th Parts • Sales • Service Fax by (206) 789-6392 Built for 36 C&C Invader III. Annual moorage available now: (206) 548-1306 • Perfect for yachts 36 to 40 feet • “BaSiC to BareBoat ” Sailing leSSonS jen@48north.com 32’ toemail 80’ Open and 32’ to 60’www.nwmarineair.com Covered slips.

• Luff= 40.02ft • Leech=35.49ft

$2495.00 * US Sailing• Asking Certification

Nancy Anderson - Seattle 206/669-0329 • sureritesigns@gmail.com www.sureritesigns.com

See us for a Better way to Heat Your Boat

Email calla@48north.com

www.seattlesailing.com info@seattlesailing.com

Phone (206) 789-7350 Fax (206) 789-6392 www.evergreenrigging.com - (360) 207-5016 email jen@48north.com

ANACORTES, WA • 360-293-1154

CLUBS

MARINE EQUIPMENT

MARINECLUBS EQUIPMENT

• 30+ years of experience •

PICK UP AND DELIVERY AVAILABLE FREE ESTIMATES FAST, QUALITY WORK

FREE unlimited day sailing on the club boats.

• Sail on Puget Sound out of Shilshole Bay Marina • Full Service Sailing Club/Pro Shop/Brokerage • All the advantages of ownership w/out the hassles

Distributor of HYPERVENT, a woven polymer bonded to a breathable fabric to fight on-board condensation and mold. The 3/4-inch polymer loops will not compress, allowing for plenty of dry air to circulate wherever it's placed.

• HELM CHAIRS

www.taylorsails.com erictaylorsails@gmail.com

KEEPS MATTRESSES CLEAN & SANITARY–ALWAYS STAYS TUCKED

• GALLERY CUSHIONS

5015 15TH AVE. NW, SEATTLE

(206) 783-1696

• MATTRESSES

CHEAPER THAN CUSTOM SHEETS–FORM FITS ANY MATTRESS

• BUNK CURTAINS

WWW.MACTOPS.COM

• EQUIPMENT COVERS

206-782-5100 www.seattlesailing.com info@seattlesailing.com 7001 Seaview Ave NW Suite 130 (Shilshole Bay Marina in Port of Seattle Building)

INSTRUCTION

Tethys

Offshore Sailing for Women

CHARTER

Nancy Erley, Instructor 206.789.5118

nancy@tethysoffshore.com www.tethysoffshore.com

CLUBS CROSSWORD SOLUTION 1

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Gill foulweather gear & Dubarry footwear

48º NORTH

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With offices in Washington, California, Florida, & the Philippines

info@seattleyachts.com

844.692.2487

www.SeattleYachts.com

Seattle Yachts is Now Your West Coast Hanse, Moody, & Dehler Yachts Dealer & Broker!

HANSE 458 - Coming soon to

DEHLER 42 - Contact your local

HANSE 418 - Coming soon to San Diego, CA

MOODY 41 - Contact your local

2021 Tartan 395 - Contact your local Seattle Yachts Office

HANSE 348 - In Stock in Anacortes, WA

2006 Tayana 58' $549,000 Dan Peter 619.200.1024

2018 Hanse 548 54' $746,498 Kenyon Martin 858.775.5937

2016 Moody 54' $939,900 Kenyon Martin 858.775.5937

Seattle, WA

Seattle Yachts Office

Seattle Yachts Office

ANACORTES 28th & R Avenue 719 28th St, Ste B Anacortes, WA 98221 (360) 299-0777

SEATTLE Shilshole Marina 7001 Seaview Ave NW, Suite 150 Seattle, WA 98117 (206) 789-8044

Professionally staffed!

Open 6 days, Sun by appt.

(619) 224-2349 • Fax (619) 224-4692 • 2330 Shelter Island Dr. #207 San Diego, CA 92106 www.yachtfinders.biz • Toll-Free (866) 341-6189 • info@yachtfinders.biz

A Leader in Brokerage Sales on the West Coast L i Ne st w in g

52' CATA NA 52 OCE A N CLASS ’09 ��������� $789,000

“ B R I G H T W I N G” Fr e q u e n t up gr a ding a nd m e tic ulous maintenance with no expense spared. Serious offshore boat in a class of her own.

40' MARINER ’67 ������������������������ $30,000 “SHALIMAR” Classic wood cruiser. She has been cruised to New Zealand by her knowledgeable owners.

“MANDARIN” A great open ocean cruising vessel with ample storage for liveaboard or blue water ocean crossings in comfort. Well maintained.

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44' NORSEMAN 447 ’84 ���������������������$169,5000

38' CATALINA 38 ’80 �������������������� $25,000 “CRUSADER” A fine example of how a boat of this vintage should look. A good opportunity to step aboard and enjoy the sailing life.

34' SCHOCK 34 PC ’89 ����������������� $39,900 “MAISTRO” Performance cruiser with comfortable interior and amenities for cruising. Easily handled by one or two.

33' RANGER 33 ’74 ��������������������� $16,500 Fast on a race course, yet ample interior amenities for cruising in relative comfort.

Good looking!

33' HOBIE 33 ’83 ������������������������ $30,000 “MAYHEM” Highly modified for offshore racing. Open transom, reinforced bulkheads, and much more.

26' HAKE SEAWARD 26 ’12 ������������ $64,000 “PEACE” One owner boat. Very lightly used.

A “like new” boat at a bargain price. Trailer included.

36' CHEOY LEE PEDRICK 36 ’85 ������������$25,000 “2 BY C” A fast boat with a comfortable interior layout for cruising with friends and family.

New Balmar alternator and Force 10 range.

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Northwest Yacht Brokers Association

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Yager Sails & Canvas............................. 13

Mahina Expeditions............................... 37

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48º NORTH

52

AUGUST 2020

quality yachts from swiftsureyachts.com Yonder is a “bulletproof” aluminum world voyager designed by the cruising yacht maestro Robert H. Perry. Master aluminum fabricator Brian Riley teamed with the wood and systems gurus at Jespersen Boat Builders in Sidney, BC to craft a yacht of the highest quality. The original owner demanded that “nothing but the best” componentry be used. Yonder recently completed a nearly flawless westward voyage from Alaska to Annapolis; a testament to her capability. Leisurefurl boom, oversized Harken winches and hardware, Northern Lights genset, 550 gallons of diesel, air conditioning, diesel heat, raised dinette, dual anchor windlasses, are just a few of the notable features of this impressive yacht.

– pete mcgonagle

Yonder 1998 Perry Eden 50 $399,000

Morris 45 • 2000 • $499,000

Outbound 46 • 2011 • $499,000

Able Apogee 51 • 2000 • $375,000 67 Waterline 64 Frers 53 Simonis 50 Valiant 48 Waterline 48 Chris White Atlantic 44 Island Gypsy 44 Fox 44 Nauticat 43 Beneteau Oceanis 42 Sabre 426 42 Catalina

1997 1978 2001 2001 1997 2010 1983 2006 1983 2009 2009 1995

$295,000 $325,000 $495,000 $325,000 $335,000 $565,000 $95,000 $139,000 $139,000 $133,900 $298,000 $129,000

45 Beneteau Oceanis • 2017 • $379,000

Tayana 48 • 2001 • $315,000

Hallberg-Rassy 39 • 2001 • $279,000

Baltic 50 • 1999 • $475,000

price reduced

price reduced

Garcia Exploration 45 • 2015 • $549,000 42 Perry 1980 41 Sceptre 1986 40 Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 1999 39 Valiant 1997 38 C&C 115 2007 36 Islander 1974 36 Ralph Stanley 1967 35 Jeanneau 349 2016 33 Backcove 2008 33 J/100 2005 25 Ranger Tug SC 2017 16 Herreschoff 12 1/2 2007

NEW SAILING YACHTS FOR WORLD CRUISING

inquire $135,000 $112,500 $169,000 $169,900 $42,000 $25,000 $159,000 $249,900 $85,000 $119,000 $36,000

C&C Custom 48 • 1973 • $187,000

FIVE LOCATIONS TO SERVE WEST COAST YACHTSMEN Seattle (Main Office) Sidney, BC Bainbridge Island Anacortes San Francisco Bay Area

SwiftsureYachts

www.swiftsureyachts.com 206.378.1110 | info@swiftsureyachts. com 2540 Westlake Ave. N. Seattle WA 98109 facebook.com/swiftsureyachts

37' BENETEAU 2012

info@west-yachts.com 1019 Q Ave. Suite D, Anacortes, WA

West Yachts is Selling Boats!! Quality Sail and Power Listings Wanted.

50' Herreshoff Caribbean 50 Ketch 1977

50' Mariner Pilothouse 1981

44' Spencer 1330 1979

44' Kelly Peterson 1975

41' Ericson 1968

40' Mariner Ketch 1978

37' Beneteau 2012

35' Ta Shing Baba 1979

34' Catalina 1999

34' Catalina 1986

33' Wauquiez Gladiator 1983

32' C&C 1980

27' Catalina 270LE 1994

72' Monk McQueen 1977

46' Nielson Trawler 1981

39' Mainship 2000

37' Lord Nelson Victory Tug 1983

34' PDQ Catamaran 2003

34' Pursuit 3400 Express 2000

26' Cascade Nor’easter Lobster 2002

26' Nordic Tug 1982

26' Nordic Tug 1981

24' Maxum 1995

22' Bullfrog 2018

(360) 299-2526 • www.west-yachts.com

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SEATTLE (206) 284-9004

Beneteau Oceanis 46.1

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31' Beneteau 31 ‘19 ....................Call Us 35' Beneteau First 35 ‘83 ........ $41,000 35' Gemini 105 Catamaran ‘97.... $79,995 36' Islander 36 ‘73 ....................$29,800

Amel 50

What’s Happening 24' Beneteau First 24 ‘20..............Arriving Sold 34' CS 34 ‘90...........................................SOLD 35' Beneteau Oceanis 35.1 ‘18 ................SOLD 35' Island Packet 350 ‘97 ........................SOLD 36' Beneteau Ctr Cockpit ‘90 ...................SOLD 37' Hunter 37.7 ‘90 .................................SOLD 38' Beneteau Oceanis 38.1 ‘20 ................SOLD 41' Beneteau Oceanis 41.1 ‘20 .....Sale Pending 41' Hunter 41DS ‘07.....................Sale Pending

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37' Tayana 37 ‘86 ....................... $69,900 39' Corbin 39 ‘81 ......................$39,900 40' Hunter Marlow ‘13 ......... .$199,900 40' Beneteau 40 ‘09 .............. $159,000 43' Saga ‘98 ............................................SOLD

47' Beneteau 473 ‘06...............................SOLD 50' Beneteau 50 ‘99.................................SOLD 51' Beneteau Oceanis 51.1 ‘20 .....Sale Pending Boats Are Selling —

45' Beneteau 45 ‘14 ..............$289,900 45' Hunter 45DS ‘09 ............ .$219,000 48' Beneteau 48 ‘13 ................. $379,900 35' Carver 356 ‘00 ....................$89,000

We Need New Listings!

2476 Westlake Ave N. #101, Seattle, WA 98109 • (206) 284-9004 Open Monday - Saturday 10:00am - 5:00pm • Sunday by appointment

MARINE SERVICENTER MARINE SERVICENTER Serving ServingNorthwest NorthwestBoaters Boaterssince since1977 1977

CenturyLink + S. Lake Union

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Order Order Yours!

Yours!

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2020 Island Packet Motor Sailer : SAVE $70,000 2021 Island Packet 42 42 Motor Sailer : SAVE $70,000

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NOW IS A GREAT TIME TO SELL! Quality listings are in high demand!

The market is red hot!

49' Trans Pac 49 ’86.............$169,000 d

49' ’05...........$284,500 47' Jeanneau BowmanSO 4749 ’97.............$169,500

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51'Jeanneau Alden Skye ‘80.............$129,500 49' SO 49 ’05...........$274,500 ust w cieN dg

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2020Lagoon Lagoon 42 40 -#57127 Order Yours! : $528,730 $7,300 2021 $654,328 : SAVE- SAVE $18,000

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53'Alden Jeanneau 53 ’15....$389,500 51' SkyeYacht ‘80.............$129,500

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2020 Jeanneau Jeanneau 349 349#74883: #74880:$192,490 $192,490- -SAVE SAVE$14,482 $14,482 2021

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2020 $29,702 2021Jeanneau Jeanneau490 410#73974: #74884:$524,869 $338,347-- SAVE SAVE $14,550 LiR Ne

2020 Jeanneau 410 3C/2H #74565: $319,948 - SAVE $24,680 2020 2C/1H #74656: $334,282SAVE - SAVE $14,556 2021Jeanneau Jeanneau410 440 #74882: $429,862$19,252 Afl o AT Juat - In S SH st S to O Ar . L ck W rivak ! ede U ! ni on

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2019 2020Jeanneau Jeanneau440 490#73995: #73974:$379,985 $524,869--SAVE SAVE $62,958 $29,702

61'Beneteau C&C ‘72Cyclades .......................$153,900 51' ‘06 ���������$199,500

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NORTH AMERICAN JAN. DEALER OF24 THE- FEB. YEAR 1 2020 • 2019 • 2016

See your boat listed here.

47'Hunter Vagabond Ketch CC ‘83......$184,000 45' 450 Passage ’98..$139,500

46'Jeanneau Hunter 460 .............$160,000 45' SO ’01 45 ’06........$199,500

45'Jeanneau Jeanneau45 SODS’06..........$199,500 45' ’08........$250,000

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42' 42' SK SK 42 42 Pilothouse Pilothouse ’06.......$124,500 ’06.......$124,500

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43' Bruce Wauquiez Amphitrite ’84 $132,500 44' Robert PH ’93........$38,500 Pe SNa lni d ele

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SpencerMS 44’80............$185,000 ‘73.............$40,000 44'44'Nauticat

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44'Jeanneau Nauticat44i MS’11 ���������� ’80 ...........$185,000 44' $194,500

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47'Vagabond Bowman Ketch 47 ’97.............$215,000 47' ‘83......$184,000

Quality Listings Wanted.

We Get Results!

35' Voyager ’78..........$54,500 33'Trident C&C 99 ’05....................$82,000

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38' X-Yachts IMX 38 ’96............$63,500

33' Gladiateur ’81...$35,000 33'Wauquiez Nauticat MS ‘85................$79,900

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’81...$35,000 34'Swan Catalina ’86..................$22,500 36'Wauquiez Bavaria 36Gladiateur ‘03 ���������������� $79,900 37' 37134‘81 ������������������� $58,000 33' dd e uin cg ed

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33' MS’11..................$99,900 ‘85................$69,900 33'Nauticat Hunter 33

37'J/120 Swan’01 ���������������������� 371 ‘81...................$69,000 40' $154,500

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35'Pacific TridentSeacraft Voyager 37’ 37’78..........$59,500 ’81........$79,000 n

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Bavaria 36 ’02................$93,500 38'36'Hans Christian MKII ’80 ��$69,900

38'Burnham Hans Christian MK ‘63....$69,500 ’80.....$72,000 41' & Crouch

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40'Jeanneau Passport4140DS ’84.............$149,900 41' ’14.........$225,400

‘08...................

20' Laser SB3 ‘08.. ................ $19,500

WE GET RESULTS

44' Bruce Roberts 44 ‘80. .......... $65,000 66' CNB 66 ‘21 ���������� Arriving SOLD 62' Lagoon 620 ‘20 ������������������SOLD 61' C&C ‘72 �����������������������������SOLD 58' Jeanneau Yacht ‘18 �������������SOLD 53' Jeanneau Yacht ‘15 �������������SOLD 50'Island Lagoon 500 Cruiser ‘12 ������������������SOLD 41' Packet ’07$299,000 49' Jeanneau 49p ‘07 ���������$349,500 62' Lagoon 620 ‘20.....Arriving SOLD 49' Jeanneau 490p ‘21 ��� Arriving SOLD 58' Jeanneau Yacht ‘18..............SOLD 49' Pac 49 50'Trans Jeanneau 50’86 �����������������SOLD DS ‘11...Sale Pending 46' 4649p ‘20 ��������������������SOLD 49'Lagoon Jeanneau ‘07 .........$349,500 49'Bruce Jeanneau 490‘80 ���� '19....Sale Pending 44' Roberts Sale Pending 46'Jeanneau Jeanneau440 469‘20 ������������2 ’15................SOLD 44' SOLD 46' Lagoon 46 ‘20.......Arriving SOLD 44' Sale Pending 45'Spencer Jeanneau4445‘73 �������� DS ’08............SOLD 43' 43 DSPH ‘05 ‘93 ������������SOLD 44'Jeanneau Bruce Roberts .....$38,500 44'Jeanneau Jeanneau410 440 ‘20 ������������7 ‘20.................SOLD 41' SOLD 41'Island Jeanneau 410 ’07 ‘20�����������������SOLD 2 Arriving SOLD 41' Packet 41' Passport 41 ‘89....................SOLD 40' Jeanneau SO 40.3 ‘07 ���������SOLD 41' Burnham & Crouch '63....$69,500 40' 4040 ‘19 ��������������������SOLD 40'Lagoon Beneteau ’11..................SOLD 38' Packet 38 ‘92 ������������SOLD 40'Island J/40 ‘90...............................SOLD 40' Jeanneau 409 ‘13................SOLD 38' Jeanneau 389 ‘20 ���������������SOLD 40' Lagoon 40 ‘19....................SOLD 37' Hanse 371 ’01 ��������������������SOLD 40' Nauticat PH ‘85............ .....SOLD 37' Packet '08 ����������SOLD 39'Island Jeanneau 39i370 ‘07/‘08........2 SOLD 37' ’02 ������������SOLD 38'Jeanneau JeanneauSO 38937 ‘20...Arriving SOLD 38'Jeanneau Island Packet ‘00...........SOLD 34' 349380 ‘20 ������������4 SOLD 37'Hunter Island Packet ‘08..........SOLD 34’ 34 ‘84 �370 ��������������������SOLD 34' Jeanneau 349 ‘20... ..............SOLD 33' 33 ‘11 ���������������������SOLD 34'Hunter KMV Grambling ‘74........$24,900 33' 99Packet ‘05 ������������������������SOLD 29'C&C Island ’91.................SOLD

Seattle Sales Office Anacortes Sales Office Anacortes Boatyard Seattle Sales Office Anacortes Sales Office 206.323.2405 360.293.9521 360.293.8200 206.323.2405 360.707.0180

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