Fashion Trend Origin Research Project

LINGERIE-INSPIRED TREND RESEARCH PROJECT FASH 503 | FORECASTING AND BUSINESS TRENDS | SPRING 2020 PROF. KIRSTY WARD

BY ZIYI WANG

Simone Rocha

TABLE OF CONTENTS

EXECUTIVE SUMMARY

03

VINTAGE RESEARCH: HISTORY OF LINGERIE-INSPIRED

04

VICTORIAN CORSETS

05

1940S LINGERIE

06

1950S LINGERIE

07

1960S - 1970S LINGERIE

12

EDITORIAL RESEARCH

16

CURRENT TREND RESEARCH

20

TREND FORECASTING RESEARCH

24

SOURCES

26

EXECUTIVE SUMMARY According to new items from various brands like Simone Rocha, I have seen a surge of interest in lingerie-inspired ways of dressing with corset-style items worn as outer pieces. Combined with the growing interest in vintage, lingerieinspired trend is the next on the agenda. In this project, I will discover lingerieinspired fashion through vintage research, editorial research, current trend research, and finally will predict its future direction.

03

VINTAGE RESEARCH: HISTORY OF LINGERIE-INSPIRED

04

VICTORIAN CORSETS

1930s Corset

During this period, the female figure was shaped by boned corsets. Until the 1930s, women were still wearing metal-boned corsets.

1877 Victorian Corsets 05

1940s LINGERIE Lingerie in the 1940s always has an image of a glamorous and curvy woman with satin and lace on magazines popular with lonely soldiers overseas. However, women of that time in real life were being active outside due to wartime shortages, so they were not lounging around in restrictive undergarments, so soon the new technology of girdles took place of metal-boned corsets. It was also a new revolution of lingerie.

Simple cotton knit panties and tops for “working women” 06

1940s Lingerie

1950s LINGERIE The lingerie in the 1950s was influenced by Hollywood’s Golden Age stars like Jane Russell, Lana Turner, and Marilyn Monroe, they were leading the trend of big breasts, big hips, and small waists that every woman in America was following. The lingerie of that time is the key to the hourglass silhouette, instead of a natural 1940s bra, the 1950s bra pushed the breasts in, up, and out to the extreme.

1958 Lingerie – Panty girdles, bras and Merry Widow corsets

1955 Classic Bra

1950s Bras Styles 07

There were many different styles of 1950s lingerie bras: strapless, longline, and bullet bras.

Early 50’s Strapless Bras

1952 Pink Longline Bra with Corset Hooks 08

1956 Strapless Maidenform Bras in regular and longline

Pointed bras, aka Bullet Bras

1950s LINGERIE: CORSETS

1958 merry window corsets

1955 Corselets

Marilyn Monroe, 1954 09

1950s LINGERIE - INFLUENCE

Dilara Findikoglu

10

Bella Hadid

KATE MOSS MADONNA IN A CORSET DESIGNED BY JEAN-PAUL GAULTIER ON THE BLONDE AMBITION TOUR, 1990

11

1960s - 1970s LINGERIE

1964 Longline Bullet Bras 12

1964 Padded Bullet Bras

1973 Cross Bra

1978 Teddy Lingerie

1960s - 1970s LINGERIE: SLIPS 1961 Girdles and Slips

1970 Slips with Lace Trim

1968 Colorful Slips

1970 Colored Nylon Slips

13

1960s - 1970s CULTURE INFLUENCE

DAZED

1976

1972

1970s

1969

Amid the 60s, the trend of lingerie-inspired was embraced among countercultures like the hippies, they chose stringy bikini-like tops; in the 70s, punk rock brought the trend to a more rebellious way of fashion.

14

Rihanna

1960s - 1970s LINGERIE - INFLUNCE

CHANEL 15

EDITORIAL RESEARCH

16

Charlotte Knowles

Esteban Cortazar

SELF SERVICE MAGAZINE

Eckhaus Latta

Nina Ricci 17

Harper’s Bazaar Australia

18

Harper’s Bazaar Australia

19

Missoni

CURRENT TREND RESEARCH

20

BACKGROUND

Charlotte Knowles

Before the invention of modern bras in 1914, women have been expected to keep their lingerie hidden. With the change of the times, lingerie is continuously inspired by a mix of eras and styles, many brands like Vivienne Westwood and Versace change or integrate it into modern clothing design, and gradually bring it to daily looks that can be outworn.

Additionally, with the development of body-inclusivity in this era, people are eager for self-expression, which inspires a celebration of the female form, and lingerie-inspired has become a key message in fashion.

21

Christian Cowan

SAINT LAURENT

JACQUEMUS

TOD’S

VERSACE

OFF-WHITE

VALENTINO

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

RUNWAY | READY-TO-WEAR

BURBERRY

22

RUNWAY RESEARCH

Lingerie-inspired pieces from F/W 2020 runway collection show that they can present various styles: rebellious, modern, intellectual, sportive, and sexy. Corresponding to different styles, these pieces use different colors, textiles, and materials. For instance, to present a rebellious and modern style, a black leather triangle with a clean-cut shape is applied by Saint Laurent; on the contrary, corsetinspired bra tops with check patterns from Burberry offer a romantic feeling.

Lingerie-inspired items are widely used in a daily fashion.

With the feeling of slightly retro, they are great items to be matched with many different looks, for example, a strapless longline corset is suitable behind or outer a shirt or blazer, it can also be dressed alone with a pair of vintage jeans.

MIU MIU

STYLE DU MONDE ROKH

Vivienne Westwood

GUIZIO

GUIZIO 23

TREND FORECASTING RESEARCH

24

VERA WANG

There are lots of fashion brands like Charlotte Knowles, GUIZIO, and Vivienne Westwood try to innovate the lingerie-inspired trend. The design practice is becoming increasingly bold, and more and more different styles will be created through various materials and colors. Like the work of new generation designer Masha Popova, the image of the woman that she builds is free and wild.

Designer: Masha Popova

Designer: Masha Popova

Designer: Masha Popova

1 Granary

Vivienne Westwood

TTSWTRS 25

SOURCES

https://selfservicemagazine.com https://www.pinterest.com https://www.instagram.com https://vintagedancer.com https://1granary.com/journal/ https://www.dazeddigital.com https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/ https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-ready-to-wear https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/article/zmj9d5/its-time-to-expose-your-bra 26

FASH 503 | FORECASTING AND BUSINESS TRENDS | SPRING 2020 | PROF. KIRSTY WARD | BY ZIYI WANG