Yankee Magazine May/June 2021

N E W E N G L A N D ’ S M AG A Z I N E

BEST OF NEW ENGLAND THE ONE BEACH GLAMPING FOR NOT TO MISS BEGINNERS

N E W

E N G L A N D ’ S

2021

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M A G A Z I N E

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May/June 2021

CONTENTS

94 /// Conversations: Mirna Valerio Meet the inspirational Vermont-based trail runner who is helping pave the way for all to enjoy the outdoors. Interview by Ian Aldrich ON THE COVER

Photograph by Little Outdoor Giants. Shot on the East Branch of the Penobscot River in the Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument, in Maine.

I

2021

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TRAVEL

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Z EE A MAG

Need some great summer travel ideas?

You’ll find more than 120 of them in our guide to attractions, dining, and lodging that highlights having fun in the New England outdoors.

MASSACHUSETTS 99 NEW HAMPSHIRE 110 VERMONT 126 CONNECTICUT 132 RHODE ISLAND 134 MAINE 137

Yankee (ISSN 0044-0191). Bimonthly, Vol. 85 No. 3. Publication Office, Dublin, NH 03444-0520. Periodicals postage paid at Dublin, NH, and additional offices. Copyright 2021 by Yankee Publishing Incorporated; all rights reserved. Postmaster: Send address changes to Yankee, P.O. Box 37128, Boone, IA 50037-0128.

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F RO M L EF T: CO R E Y H EN D R I C K S O N ; M I C H EL L E C R A I G ; K I N D R A C L I N EF F

88 /// Going Wide Biking border-to-border across New Hampshire lets a native son see his state with fresh eyes. By Ian Aldrich

S’ CH O

NEW ENGLAND N

Whether you want to explore under-the-radar state parks, enjoy the creature comforts of glamping, or simply put together the perfect gourmet picnic, New England has all the inspiration you need for outdoor fun this summer.

OR

BEST OF

YA

70 /// Summer Travel: Take It Outside

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features

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NEWENGLAND.COM

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F RO M L EF T: CO R E Y H EN D R I C K S O N ; M I C H EL L E C R A I G ; K I N D R A C L I N EF F

Here's to 30 sweet years!

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More Contents

departments 10 DEAR YANKEE, CONTRIBUTORS & POETRY BY D.A.W.

18 INSIDE YANKEE

20 FIRST PERSON An outdoor adventurer refuses to give in to disability. By Todd Balf

22 FIRST LIGHT How heading into the wilderness can help bring you back to yourself.

By Ian Aldrich

28 WEEKENDS WITH YANKEE Q&A Michael Terrien, cofounder of Bluet and a featured guest on Weekends with Yankee, gives us a look into the future of Maine blueberry wine.

52

home

32 UP CLOSE For over a century, the AMC White Mountain Guide has been keeping hikers on the right track.

By Joe Bills

36 /// Pretty as a Picture

A garden photographer’s garden offers a master class in composition. By Annie Graves

food

156 LIFE IN THE KINGDOM On a farm, some animals that prove hard to keep can be even harder to let go.

By Ben Hewitt

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52 /// A Movable Feast Enjoy fresh summer recipes designed for cooking indoors or out. By Amy Traverso

ADVERTISING RESOURCES

60 /// In Season

This strawberry cannoli tart is an Italian-inspired dessert to savor. By Amy Traverso

62 /// Recipe Remake Our new column revisits favorite Yankee recipes and updates them for the way we cook now. First up: chicken and dumplings. By Amy Traverso 4 |

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Weekends with Yankee.......... 29 Outside Living......................34 Spring Gift Guide.............. 65 My New England............... 68 15 Reasons to Visit Vermont...............................128 Even More to Explore in Vermont......................... 131 Retirement Living............ 143 Marketplace.......................150

F R O M TO P : M I C H A E L P I A Z Z A ; J O S E P H VA L E N T I N E ; L I Z N E I LY

44 /// Open Studio Steve Cayard’s birchbark canoes draw on Wabanaki craftsmanship and a deep respect for nature.

By Annie Graves

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F R O M TO P : M I C H A E L P I A Z Z A ; J O S E P H VA L E N T I N E ; L I Z N E I LY

EDITORIAL Editor Mel Allen Managing Editor Jenn Johnson Senior Features Editor Ian Aldrich Senior Food Editor Amy Traverso Home & Garden Editor Annie Graves Associate Editor Joe Bills Senior Digital Editor Aimee Tucker Associate Digital Editor Katherine Keenan Contributing Editors Kim Knox Beckius, Sara Anne Donnelly, Ben Hewitt, Rowan Jacobsen, Nina MacLaughlin, Julia Shipley ART Art Director Katharine Van Itallie Photo Editor Heather Marcus Contributing Photographers Adam DeTour, Megan Haley, Corey Hendrickson, Michael Piazza, Greta Rybus PRODUCTION Director David Ziarnowski Manager Brian Johnson Senior Artists Jennifer Freeman, Rachel Kipka

Publisher Brook Holmberg ADVERTISING Vice President Judson D. Hale Jr. Media Account Managers Kelly Moores, Dean DeLuca, Steven Hall Canada Account Manager Cynthia Fleming Senior Production Coordinator Janet Selle For advertising rates and information, call 800-736-1100, ext. 204, or email NewEngland.com/adinfo.

MARKETING ADVERTISING

Director Kate Hathaway Weeks Manager Valerie Lithgow Associate Holly Sloane PUBLIC RELATIONS

Roslan & Associates Public Relations LLC 212-966-4600 NEWSSTAND Vice President Sherin Pierce

DIGITAL Vice President Paul Belliveau Jr. Designer Amy O’Brien Ecommerce Director Alan Henning Marketing Specialist Holly Sanderson Email Marketing Specialist Samantha Caveny — YANKEE PUBLISHING INC. ESTABLISHED 1935 | AN EMPLOYEE-OWNED COMPANY

President Jamie Trowbridge Vice Presidents Paul Belliveau Jr., Ernesto Burden, Judson D. Hale Jr., Brook Holmberg, Jennie Meister, Sherin Pierce Editor Emeritus Judson D. Hale Sr.

NEWSSTAND CONSULTING

Linda Ruth, PSCS Consulting 603-924-4407 SUBSCRIPTION SERVICES To subscribe, give a gift, or change your mailing address, or for any other questions, please contact our customer service department: Mail Yankee Magazine Customer Service P.O. Box 37128 Boone, IA 50037-0128 Online NewEngland.com/contact Email customerservice@yankeemagazine.com

CORPORATE STAFF

Human Resources Manager Beth Parenteau Credit Manager Bill Price Staff Accountant Nancy Pfuntner Accounting Coordinator Meg Hart-Smith Executive Assistant Christine Tourgee Maintenance Supervisor Mike Caron Facilities Attendant Paul Langille

Toll-free 800-288-4284 — Yankee occasionally shares its mailing list with approved advertisers to promote products or services we think our readers will enjoy. If you do not wish to receive these offers, please contact us.

BOARD OF DIRECTORS

Andrew Clurman, Daniel Hale, Judson D. Hale Jr., Joel Toner, Cor Trowbridge, Jamie Trowbridge FOUNDERS

Robb and Beatrix Sagendorph

A member of the City and Regional Magazine Association

A member of the Association of Magazine Media

A member of the American Society of Magazine Editors

Yankee Publishing Inc., 1121 Main St., P.O. Box 520, Dublin, NH 03444 603-563-8111; editor@yankeemagazine.com

Printed in the U.S.A. at Quad Graphics

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Connect with Yankee

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@ YA N K EE M AG A Z I N E

ON THE WATER A curated look at New England featuring standout shots from our Instagram community.

Chadwick Estey (@chadwick_vt) Burlington, Vermont

Alexandra Barnes (@byalexandrabarnes) New Castle, New Hampshire

Isaac Crabtree (@northwoodsaerial) Cutler, Maine

Joshua Bradford Gray (@joshuabradfordgray) Nantucket, Massachusetts

Jack Bjorn (@jackbjornphotography) South Portland, Maine

Mindy Briar (@mindybriar) Mystic, Connecticut

Use our Instagram hashtag #mynewengland for a chance to be featured in an upcoming issue!

F O L L O W U S O N S O C I A L M E D I A @YA N K E E M A G A Z I N E

WA N T M O R E O F T H E B E S T O F N E W E N G L A N D ?

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LE T TERS TO THE EDITOR

Views of ‘Away’

CONTRIBUTORS IAN ALDRICH Though Yankee’s senior features editor has done a fair amount of cycling, he hadn’t been on a real “bikepacking” trip until hitting the Cross New Hampshire Adventure Trail last summer [“Going Wide,” p. 88]. “Learning how little to pack was an education,” he says. “For example, I had brought slippers. Slippers! That became a running joke during our three-day trip.”

CHRISTIAN BLAZA Currently studying for a master’s in illustration at New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology, Blaza enjoyed the chance to apply his dynamic, colorful style to a portrait of the Vermont athlete-adventurer Mirna Valerio [“Conversations,” p. 94]. “Mirna goes against all expectations, and at the same time empowers others,” he says. “She is an inspiration, on and off the trail.”

C AT R I N E K E LT Y The French-born Kelty had an upbringing that revolved around the pleasures of the table: good food, good wine, lots of friends and family. Today a food stylist, she says working on the outdoor dining photos for this issue [p. 52 and p. 74] was a tad bittersweet.

“I’m looking forward to when we can all go out and spread a blanket in the grass for a great meal, some music, and a glass of wine. Cheers and be well!”

STEVE JERMANOK This veteran travel writer has done more than 40 articles for Yankee, a collection to which he now adds “Under-the-Radar State Parks” [p. 76]. “These are gems that I’ve had the good fortune to return to often over the past quarter century—it was great to distill the essence of why they should not be overlooked,” says Jermanok, who lives in Massachusetts with his family and their “pandemic puppy,” Theo.

S A L LY D E N G An award-winning illustrator whose work has been featured by The New York Times, The Atlantic, and NPR, Deng makes her Yankee debut with “Flying My Flag” [p. 20], Todd Balf ’s essay about adaptive biking. “It’s so liberating to speed downhill on a bike—the wind blocking out the rest of the world, your mind laser-focused on the present,” she says. “I hope I came close to capturing that sense of freedom.”

I was disappointed that you published an article like “From Away” [March/ April]. While I don’t agree with the chain that was added to the author’s brother’s driveway, I find the article quite selfish and an insult to year-round residents who have tried hard to keep their communities safe. What happened to her brother is literally the reason why Maine and Vermont instituted mandatory quarantines: Second-home owners overwhelming small rural hospitals! I hope Yankee follows up with an article on rural healthcare workers and the burden that caring for second-home owners has put on their systems.

Chris Leitao Post Mills, Vermont — It is a sad commentary on the state of society when compassion for suffering is replaced by fear and self-interest to the extent that a chain would be left across the end of a driveway rather than a meal (or even some water).

I am usually proud to call myself a New Englander, but not today.

Lisa Trahan Ames, New York

Recipe for Harmony I thoroughly enjoyed your articles about pie in the January/February issue.

While my equipment may not be up to par with those featured in “The Pie Maker’s Tool Kit,” my love for pie making has been passed down to me from my dad (who makes a killer apple pie— from scratch). So I tried my whisk at the Civil Rights Spiced Sweet Potato Pie from your “Baking Power” article, in Correction

A N N I E G R AV E S Even after writing home and travel stories for Yankee for more than a decade, Graves still feels the thrill of discovery. In the case of her story for this issue, “Pretty as a Picture” [p. 36], that meant finding “a real-life version of The Secret Garden tucked into the backwoods of New Hampshire—that’s what it felt like, wandering through photographer Joe Valentine’s ‘garden rooms.’”

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Our March/April story about Lexington and Concord, Massachusetts [“Weekend Away”], stated that the Concord Cheese Shop is open on Sunday. In fact, the shop’s Write at 1121 Main St.,been Dublin, NH daysus of operation have long Tuesday 03444, orSaturday. editor@yankeemagazine.com. through We regret the error, but ininclude our defense: comesNote to thethat Please whereWhen you itreside.

Concord Cheese Shop it’s hard to think letters may be edited and clarity. about anything elsefor butlength their food.

J A R R O D M C C A B E ( A L D R I C H ) ; W I N K Y L E W I S ( K E LT Y )

Dear Yankee

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North Easton, Borderland State Park The beautiful mansion found here was home to Blanche Ames Ames, a talented artist and inventor, with a lifelong dedication to women’s suffrage. The park offers trails for hiking, biking, or horseback riding; a pond for fishing and boating, and facilities for tennis and disc golf.

Boston Women’s Memorial, Commonwealth Avenue Found in Boston’s Back Bay, these sculptures pay tribute to Phyllis Wheatley, a slave who became a poet; Abigail Adams, a feminist, wife, and advisor to John Adams, the second U.S. president; and Lucy Stone, an abolitionist and suffrage leader.

Florence, The African American Heritage Trail This tour commemorates the town where the abolitionist and women’s right activist, Sojourner Truth lived. See her memorial statue, home and historic sites that serve as symbols against racism and oppression.

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Dear Yankee

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LET TERS

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honor of Dr. King and what he stood for and continues to stand for.

This pie mak ing and sharing resonated with me after I read your editor’s letter, “Listening, Especially Now.” The dense nature of the sweet potato pie causes one to slow down and really “listen” to all the f lavors that are mixed together—the same way that we as humans should slow down and listen to each other and not rush to judgment or talk over one another.

As a Mid-Atlantic expat who took annual family trips each summer to New England as a child, I cannot wait to break open each issue of Yankee that arrives in my Louisiana mailbox. And the next one that arrives, I will enjoy with my coffee… and a slice of pie.

Ryan M. Green Covington, Louisiana Letters continue on p. 14

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Dear Yankee

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LE T TERS TO THE EDITOR

REBECCA CARROLL GROWING UP BLACK IN NEW ENGLAND I N T E RV I E W BY JO E KEO H A N E

For a time, Rebecca Carroll had a quintessential New England childhood. Adopted into a family where, a friend once exclaimed, “kids are king,” she grew up in the small town of Warner, New Hampshire, in the ’70s and ’80s. Her bohemian parents had left behind the turmoil of urban life intending to establish a utopian one in the country. And by Carroll’s reckoning, they succeeded.

Among her earliest memories: climbing apple trees, making mud pies amid the scent of milkweed, eating dinner outside under radiant sunsets, and running around the property at her family’s rented farmhouse in a place called Pumpkin Hill. “Look how lucky we all are,” she remembers her father saying. “Can you believe this?”

There was just one thing: Carroll was Black, and her family was white. And her classmates were all white.

And her town was all white. And her state was almost all white. When Carroll was little, the only Black people she saw were on TV, like Easy Reader, the character played by Morgan Freeman on the kids’ show The Electric Company. It wasn’t until later in her childhood that she even met another black person.

Our January/February Q&A with Rebecca Carroll, author of Surviving the White Gaze, covered a lot of ground, from her childhood experiences in New Hampshire to larger issues of race in New England.

It’s also sparked a lot of thought-provoking reader feedback, some of which we’ve collected here. Join the conversation at newengland.com/rebecca-carroll.

I L L U S T R AT I O N B Y X I A G O R D O N

CONVERSATIONS

Continuing the Conversation

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I am an old white guy who grew up in a Connecticut small town. We were nationally diverse, being a 1940s and ’50s mill town. In those days, we thought nothing of calling each other by politically incorrect names.

As I have matured, I am now convinced that the only race is the human race, and we are all so genetically intertwined that there is no separating us. That said, racism exists overtly and politically in our culture, and

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under the surface too. No matter how hard I try, I lock the car doors going through a Black neighborhood. I think things like, Why can’t they talk English? and Why does she insist on wearing that head covering?

If most of us who are white are honest with ourselves, we have to admit that this unconscious racism exists, even if it does not show on the surface.

Carl A. Strand Jr. Mystic, Connecticut

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— Yankee has always celebrated the values that made New England not only the bedrock of this nation’s founding but also the cradle of its success in becoming the industrial powerhouse that it is today. And yet Ms. Carroll, who enjoyed all the “white privilege” that is currently so in vogue to denigrate, thinks that it’s all racist.

And so, Yankee, you are faced with a pivotal question: Is New England “systemically racist”? If you think so, fold up shop, admit your long role in the charade, and put yourselves out of a job.

If the answer is no—which it obviously is—then don’t be afraid to challenge the woke mob. The memory of the 360,000 Union soldiers, most from New England, who died stamping out slavery should give you some much-needed fortitude.

I suppose in the end it’s a win-win for you, at least in the short term: It seems like there’s money to be made in the “woke industrial complex.” Just promise me you won’t call it “Yankee.”

Pat Hambly via email — Growing up in NYC and moving just 250 miles north, to New Boston, New Hampshire, in the early ’70s was quite an eye-opener for me. I had long black hair to my waist and was very tan, and wherever I went I was constantly asked what nationality I was.

A few years later, I moved to Bedford with my French-Polish husband, who was from Manchester. My nextdoor neighbor told me that everyone on our street wanted to know “what” I could possibly be (other than human being, I suppose). I told her to tell them I was mulatto, but, not understanding what that term meant, she proudly proclaimed one day that she told the neighbors I was “avocado.” As a nursing student, I was once asked by a patient what foreign country I was from; I responded politely, “New York.”

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Dear Yankee

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LE T TERS TO THE EDITOR

Today, I am a nurse practitioner in a diverse city and no longer hear those comments as frequently. I still return to New Hampshire to visit my old friends, and it still holds a place in my heart in spite of my early years residing there. I do believe it has changed since then— though not as much as we’d like.

Elissa Conte Las Vegas, Nevada — Editors’ note: The following letter was written by Rebecca Carroll’s adoptive father, David Carroll, a New Hampshire artist, writer, and naturalist. Readers may know him as the author of such books as The Year of the Turtle and Swampwalker’s Journal, which won the John Burroughs Medal in 2001.

Joe Keohane’s interview with Rebecca Carroll on her memoir and quest for Black identity was thoughtful and revealing. But interviewers have, under

most scenarios, only the author’s words to go by. As her adoptive father, I am compelled to speak to the misrepresentation that permeates her narrative.

I will address the opening discussion of her adoption as an exemplar of her treatment of essentially every theme she takes up, in terms of the trivialization and stereotyping that do great injustice to our heartfelt decision to adopt. This was not an afterthought that came after the births of our children. We were committed to the idea of bringing no more than two into the world, the zero-percent-growth model. If we wanted to have a larger family, we would adopt. We registered with the state agencies but were impeded by such considerations as our not owning a house, not belonging to any religion, and falling short of economic guidelines. We also registered with Families for Interracial Adoption, as needs were great and restrictions not

so prohibitive. We would welcome a child of any race.

We are portrayed as stereotypes throughout the narrative ; in this instance, I am described as “an artist and certainly a male artist very much of his time.” Her adoption was not something I entered into seeking “exotification,” nor was it something I “choreographed” or “curated.”

As the tale goes on, her invasion of privacy regarding us, her adoptive parents, is added as spice. ... I can say honestly and frankly that it achieves a crushing weight that my wife, Laurette, and I bear.

David Carroll Warner, New Hampshire Write to us at Yankee, 1121 Main St., Dublin, NH 03444 or email us at editor@yankeemagazine.com. Letters and comments selected for publication may be edited for length and clarity.

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Inside Yankee |

MEL ALLEN

The Best Thing We Do anyone could recall. The little country store that doubled as the post office had never seen so many new people at one time. Yankee had said, Here is a special place and here is what you can see and do. And so they came.

I know the deep trust that readers hold for us. And this year, when we have lost so much of what we once knew as normal, never has it been more important that we understand our need to embrace the lives we knew before the virus.

I expect never again will we take for granted the simple act of leaving home; the expectation of finding joy in unexpected moments. Spring, summer, fall, winter—all came and went, and most of us did not find new places. And now here we are. Spring, summer, fall await. We feel a stirring. I feel a stirring.

Today the president announced 50 million Americans have received at least one dose of vaccine. When you read this, many millions more will have been added. We crave the life that includes that joy of setting out for new places. That is what this issue is all about.

When you open the pages, in a way you are opening the door. It is the best thing we do, to keep finding the New England we know, then saying, Come along with us.

Mel Allen editor@yankeemagazine.com

To catch up on Mel Allen’s monthly “Letter from Dublin,” go to newengland.com/letterfromdublin.

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JARROD MCCABE

ore than 40 years ago I learned something about Yankee readers that I have never forgotten: They want to go where we go. It was fall, late 1970s. I wrote about the Maine I once called home—the small towns and villages of Oxford County, a place dotted with lakes and modest mountains, family apple orchards and cider mills. I wrote about a hike up Bear Mountain in Waterford that gave views of a foliage-fringed lake. I told about gem hunting in West Paris, an exquisite little French restaurant in South Paris, a public sauna in Norway. All off-the-beaten-path attractions within short country drives of each other. Yankee titled the article “Small Is Beautiful,” echoing a best-selling book of the time. I turned it in just before the issue went to press. To make the deadline, it ran with not a single photo. Nothing to tempt the reader except black type on white paper.

Within a few days of the issue’s arrival in mailboxes, pilgrims had found this little-known corner of Maine. Tom Fillebrown at his apple orchard told me that people came holding the issue and asked for his autograph. That had never happened to him before. The French restaurant owner, Maurice André, said he was taking reservations for days. More hikers were trekking up 325-foot Bear Mountain than

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TODD BALF

Flying My Flag An outdoor adventurer refuses to give in to disability. hen I ride my bike around the North Shore of Massachusetts, I draw looks. Car passengers often stick their camera phones out the window to record me. Children stare. Dogs, all of them (but fortunately leashed), stop and glare. People wonder what in heaven’s name I’m doing on the road. I sometimes wonder myself.

I lie nearly supine and just inches from the paved ground.

My bike isn’t a normal bike, but rather a “trike” with a single 10-speed-size wheel in front and two in the back. A sledlike deck is in between. Footrests laced with strapping keep my legs extended and off the ground. My helmeted head is slightly raised, about level with drainage pipes and roadkill. I propel myself with hand pedals poised in front of me; I steer by gently shifting my body weight like a skier on a cruiser run.

I have a tall, bright-colored f lag, of course, and a couple of rear strobe lights, and yet I’m still reason for those behind me to give a wide berth—even my cycling brethren. “I haven’t ridden my bike on the road for two years,” a friend warned me, choosing to avoid distracted drivers and 20 |

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ride in the woods. “But if it is the only way to keep riding, I get it.”

He didn’t get it.

But it is the only way. My partially paralyzed legs, injured in a spinal surgery six years ago and further diminished by a 2019 stroke, are too weak now. I resisted my public adaptation as concession, as weird. I had once raced a mountain bike and toured long trails in foreign countries. I hated the orange flag behind me, announcing my vulnerability, my difference.

After my stroke, in order to participate in the Pan-Mass Challenge charity bike ride, I decided to trike it.

I won’t lie: My team and the roadside support made a difference. The guy in Falmouth who yelled, “Go, mad dog, go!” made a difference.

Now I go out in rain. I’ve tried pond trails, bombing through waist-soaking puddles. I’ve ridden many miles for charity, many miles with friends. I’ve been graced with Good Samaritans helping to fix f lats. I rode during this pandemic sharing largely car-free streets with parents pushing baby carriages and neophyte bike riders looking for some normalcy. Last fall I rode a rail trail in the aftermath of a damaging nor’easter, able to pedal-limbo beneath giant fallen tree limbs.

On the road, I often meet the eyes of oncoming motorcyclists, one or more of them invariably jutting an upraised Keep on keepin’ on fist in the air. Explaining my comfort in being a local eccentric is simple: I no longer feel like one.

The joys compare to when I was a 6-year-old triumphantly riding to the next town over with my best friend, Kip. I feel the inner sensations that make me forget the outer ones that my lower half no longer registers. I am a kayaker skimming the surface, the ground racing away and autumn leaves crackling and stirring in my wake. The grace of sweet speed is an old friend improbably found.

I walk slowly now, with forearm crutches and braces. I need a thoughtful motorist’s pardon to cross a busy street.

But this bike has 27 speeds, a light aluminum frame, and the athleticism of a whippet. When I descend the long hill into downtown Manchester by the Sea, my straining arms whir the pedals around, my eyes watchful for the traffic sign at the bottom and whether I trigger the f lashing 20 mph speed limit lights.

I have had a few bumps and bruises, a couple of close calls. Having been through what I have in the past few years, I know I should be risk-averse, happy to be alive.

More in than out. More still than fast-moving. But I have my flag, and I no longer mind flying it.

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Temple dragon at the foot of a six-story Buddhist temple, zebra dog walking in the driveway, we visited gem mines, yes we held audience with gem runners with parcels of sapphires and spinel. Yes the streets of Chanthaburi, Thailand were filled with hundreds shoulder to shoulder.

Gems, yes we bought and came home and designed some of our Clippership collection shown at the right.

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3/22/21 12:12 PM

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Maine Takeaway How heading into the wilderness can bring you back to yourself.

STORY AND PHOTOS BY IAN ALDRICH

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S

o many times over this past year, when almost nothing seemed as it was before, I have thought about the long weekend I spent in the wilds of Maine, when life slowed down and my only real worry was whether I had what it took to leap into a cold, clear river.

It was along the banks of a winding waterway in Baxter State Park that I faced this challenge. It was a cool Sunday morning in early September 2019, just after daybreak, and I stood at the water’s edge, rubbing and clapping my hands as I tried to overcome my hesitation. And boy, did I need to.

For the past three days I’d been

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camping and hiking with seven others in the far reaches of one of the biggest uninterrupted stretches of wilderness in the Northeast. We’d scaled a couple of peaks, had lunch atop a waterfall, and sipped whiskey under the stars.

But all that outdoor living necessitated a—shall we say—refresher. Which is why on our final day I awoke at dawn and marched to the creek, ready to make the plunge.

Until I wasn’t.

Because the water looked colder than advertised, I instead took a seat on the rocks and remained there in an almost meditative state. In my defense,

Among the payoffs for participants in L.L. Bean’s Outdoor Discovery Programs trip to Baxter State Park (clockwise from lower left): meals and snacks made fresh on-site; grand summit views from South Branch and Black Cat mountains; and a riverside hike that culminated with lunch atop a waterfall.

the setting had something to do with it: A morning mist was rising off the glassy waters, birds were chattering somewhere behind me, and in the near distance the early touches of fall color had descended on the landscape. As it had at other times over the past few days, the world felt not just still, but also remarkably sane. | 23

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above : Leigh Mastin, one of the two

Registered Maine Guides overseeing the trip, leads hikers down Black Cat. left : With a campfire to ward off the evening chill, trip participants gather for pre-dinner drinks and conversation at their Baxter State Park campsite.

I know I wasn’t the only one who’d reached that conclusion.

Over the course of the long weekend, our group had toured a slice of Baxter on a guided trip with L.L. Bean’s Outdoor Discovery Programs.

In addition to all that moving and sipping, we received a primer on park history via a Baxter historian, gained some valuable campsite know-how, and feasted on food our two trip leaders made from scratch.

It was the kind of trip that was pampering without feeling overly luxurious.

“Any objections to peppers and cheese in your eggs?” is the kind of question we might hear at breakfast. Our first dinner included marinated salmon with potatoes, salad, green beans, and heaping plates of hot gingerbread topped with whipped cream “Well, we like to eat, too,” explained co-leader Diane Barras as she dished out dessert. “And it’s easy to make boring stuff. But it’s fun to do something more interesting.”

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We were a small but varied bunch.

There were two longtime friends, Kim Gerra and “T” Hanson, now living in different parts of the country, who had continued an annual girls’ weekend together. “We were looking at a couple of different trips,” Hanson explained to the group, then added with a laugh, “But this just seemed like the easiest because everything was being done for us.” There was a middle-aged Maine couple, Fred and Diana Martin, looking to reacquaint themselves with camping. “We used to do a lot of this stuff, but then we had kids, careers, and it became harder to do,” Fred said. As for me, I’d traveled with my buddy Adar, who matched my love for being outdoors during the day with a coolness toward sleeping in a tent at night. There was nothing extreme about any of us.

We were, in other words, the kind of crew the Outdoor Discovery Programs cater to. Like its fellow New England–based outdoors outfitters—

Orvis, Eastern Mountain Sports, and others—L.L. Bean long ago began connecting what it sells with the sorts of adventures that inspire people to use its stuff. In 2019, more than 200,000 people participated in one of its classes or trips.

The Baxter journey is one of the Outdoor Discovery Programs’ newest excursions. As with most of the bigger sojourns, it’s led by Registered Maine Guides. Ours were a pair of 30-something women, Barras and Leigh Mastin, both longtime trip leaders who’ve directed Bean programs for several years.

Our trip began early on Friday at the Bean headquarters in Freeport.

After the meet-and-greets, we hopped into a cargo van driven by Barras, while Mastin helmed another that was stuffed with camping equipment, cookware, and food. Three hours later we were setting up tents and laying out sleeping bags at our park site.

The strength of these trips is in what you don’t have to wrestle with.

Show up on time, pack warm clothes and maybe a book—these are the things you’re responsible for. The rest—equipment, reservations, planning—is taken care of. Even down to the smallest details: When one of us needed an extra pair of shorts, Mastin emerged from the van with a few different options. And no matter how NEWENGLAND.COM

3/11/21 10:56 AM

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early any of us awoke, there was coffee going.

This all made it easy to take in where we were. Baxter State Park is more than 200,000 acres of wilderness. With its mountains and rivers, some 215 miles of hiking trails, and 10 different campgrounds, we were able to grasp only glimpses of what’s there.

Our f irst full morning, we broke camp after breakfast and spent the next si x hours scaling t wo small peaks. We moved leisurely, stopping for photos and water as the views got better and better. “That’s beautiful” gave way to “That’s incredible” and then, atop Black Cat, we stood for a moment in silence to take in the upper reaches of Mount Katahdin moving in and out of the clouds. Mastin brought up the rear, hauling a backpack that seemingly matched her weight in extra water, food, clothing, and emergency supplies.

The following day we were back in the woods, scampering along a trail that cut beside a river. We took playful pics on big boulders that jutted into the water. Before heading back, we rested on a series of rocks atop a waterfall, gingerly taking in the sights below and refueling on local cheeses, breads, and crackers.

Could we have done all this if we’d arranged the trip by ourselves? Of course. The hikes weren’t complicated. The waterfall wasn’t some secret destination. But there was something refreshing about camping and exploring with a group of strangers. When you’re thrown together around a campfire or while logging a few hours on a trail, camaraderie builds. There’s a shared experience to draw from. You feel as though you’ve been through something, even if “roughing it” just means finding a polite way of asking for seconds of the gingerbread.

By our second night together, Fred Martin shared what it was like to take care of his dying father. Later, the group convinced my friend Adar to do a practice run of his upcoming TED Talk. After dinners, Kim Gerra would share the precious amount of whiskey she’d brought with the rest of the group.

An Outdoor Discovery Programs trip isn’t boot camp. If I had really wanted to hang at the campsite all four days, I could have. There was time to be alone. To read, to stroll, to just unwind. Which is how I found myself on the edge of that creek one early morning, willing myself into some wickedly frigid water—and f inding exactly the right kind of refresher that I needed before making my return to the everyday world.

For information on L.L. Bean Outdoor Discovery Programs, go to llbean.com and click on “Outdoor Programs.”

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The floor was purple lepidolite, An indicator mineral that is a clue that gem tourmaline is likely to be near.

This was a slab of grape flavored, grape colored lepidolite.

I’d never seen anything like it. It was beautiful.

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I had never seen purple in nature in such a large and dramatic display, 12 by 15 feet, it was flat, wet sparkling and beautiful.

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3/15/21 3:33 PM

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W I T H YA N K E E Q & A Winemaker Michael Terrien at the Bluet production facility in Scarborough, Maine.

It’s just down the road from where he and cofounder Eric Martin grew up, in Cape Elizabeth and South Portland, respectively.

Q: Why on earth would a Napa Valley winemaker make blueberry wine?

Are you kidding? A tart and sweet Stone Age fruit, bursting with flavors that speak of the terroir of glaciers, granite, and the ancient Atlantic sea floor? Tell me another fruit that has better winemaking bona fides than the Maine wild blueberry.

Q: What’s it like, and who is it for?

It’s wicked tart, bubbly, and blue—not exactly a focus-group kind of wine. Five years ago, stores didn’t know where to put it. We thought we might have to drink it all ourselves. But we’re finding a true fan base with the younger crowd that drinks natural wine, wild beer, funky ciders, and hard kombucha. Not just in Maine, either. Napa Valley’s Fatted Calf [an acclaimed charcuterie and butcher shop] sells quite a lot of it.

A hotel on Hollywood Boulevard serves the cans poolside.

Q: Are you the first to do this?

The cofounder of Bluet and featured Weekends with Yankee guest gives us a look into the future of blueberry wine.

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Surely it must have been a farmhouse beverage in the 19th century, but in modern times Bob Bartlett of Bartlett Maine Estate Winery was the first to make a serious wild blueberry wine.

We know from decades-old bottles of Bartlett that wild blueberry wine can age especially well. But Bob doesn’t make sparkling wine, so we may be the first to make a bubbly at any sort of scale.

Q: Maine’s wild blueberry industry has been around for centuries. Why is this happening now?

It’s the zeitgeist. The back-to-theland promise of the 1960s, which

G R E TA R Y B US

Michael M Terrien

ichael Terrien isn’t the first person to make wine from Maine’s famously flavorful wild berries, but he’s the first with serious winemaking chops. The Maine native had been making celebrated Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in California’s Napa Valley for 20 years before he and his childhood friend Eric Martin launched Bluet—a dry, sparkling wine made entirely from wild blueberries—in 2014. Could Down East Maine become the Napa Valley of blueberry wine? Terrien explains why he and a lot of other people in the state are starting to think so. —Rowan Jacobsen

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brought my parents to Maine, is vivid again. Ten years ago, people were just beginning to discover heritage cider and sour ales. Now they’re ready for a drink that’s 100 percent wild blueberries, with zero sugar and zero sulfites. It’s a superfood, stuffed with antioxidants, naturally low in alcohol, and it tastes crazy alive with beautiful natural acidity from the coast of Maine.

Q: Was this a hard sell for the berry growers?

At first they thought we were crazy.

The first year, John Boyington of Ridgeberry Farm flat-out told us a thousand pounds was way more fruit than we’d know what to do with. Now we buy 50 tons. Globalism has gutted the field price of blueberries. It’s been tough for families who grow them to survive. We offer our growers a better price—in cash—and it could get

better. Apple growers sell cider apples for five times what they used to get for table apples. That could be the story of Maine wild blueberries.

Q: Wild blueberries are so small. Is there really enough fruit to supply a wine industry?

There’s more than enough to make a million cases of wine. That may sound like a lot, but it’s a fraction of a percent of California’s production.

Nevertheless, it would solve the crisis for our family farms. The University of Maine and the Maine Community College System are interested in supporting this new industry, and there’s a trade group taking shape to encourage others.

Q: What would success look like?

Give us the dream vision.

We see a near future where a handful of makers are all working together,

learning how to make great wine.

Our friend Joe Appel, who had been the wine buyer at Rosemont Market, quit his job in 2019 to start making blue bubbles. When I close my eyes, I see dozens of wineries a decade from now, each making wines that taste like their fields, from Appleton Ridge to Blue Hill to Roque Bluffs, like the grower-producers in Champagne. Then terroir starts to mean something.

To go deeper into the story of Bluet and the Maine blueberry wine industry, look for Rowan Jacobsen’s feature story in the upcoming July/August issue of Yankee. Bluet is also featured on season 5 of Weekends with Yankee, now airing on public television stations nationwide. To find your local station listings—plus recipes, highlights from past seasons, and more—go to weekendswithyankee.com.

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3/11/21 11:08 AM

“EDGARTOWN HARBOR LIGHT”

On the island of Martha’s Vineyard Forrest Pirovano’s painting “Edgartown Light” shows a lighthouse at the entrance of Edgartown Harbor Edgartown Harbor Light in Edgartown, Massachusetts marks the entrance to Edgartown Harbor and Katama Bay. It is one of five lighthouses on the island of Martha’s Vineyard. Built in 1828 as a two-story wooden structure, it also served as the keeper’s house. In 1939, it was replaced by the current cast-iron tower relocated to Martha’s Vineyard from Crane’s Beach in Ipswich. The lighthouse originally located on an artificial island 1/4 miles from shore is now surrounded by a beach formed by sand accumulating around the stone causeway connecting it to the mainland.

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n 1858, following his second guided tour of the White Mountains, Henry David Thoreau wrote of the fabled New Hampshire range, “To travel there with security, a person must know his bearings at every step.”

Nearly 50 years later, the Appalachian Mountain Club began providing that security in book form. Bearing a green cloth cover with the title and the AMC logo embossed in gold, Guide to the Paths and Camps in the White Mountains, Part 1 debuted in 1907 with a 600-copy print run. It was small— approximately 5½ by 3½ inches and 206 pages—but it was mighty, as it codified the wisdom of expert guides into a portable resource. “The need of a comprehensive guidebook of the White Mountains … has long been felt by the tramping public,” it states at the outset. And ever since then, this guide 32 |

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has been helping hikers and campers find their way along a network that has grown to include 1,440 miles of trails through mountains and forests.

The debut installment of the book series that has come to be known as the AMC White Mountain Guide covers 11 distinct geographical areas, with detailed maps and information on trails and viewpoints, as well as historical notes. The expectation from the start was that there would be regular updates, owing to both natural and man-made changes to the terrain. A second, expanded edition appeared in 1916, and a third in 1917. Since then, new editions have kept coming every two to six years. In 1998, the book expanded to its current 5-by-7-inch size. And today’s version fills 600-plus pages and weighs more than a pound.

Reading the AMC White Mountain

Guide, you feel seasoned wisdom being handed down, no doubt after hundreds of rescue calls. About the Huntington Ravine Trail, for instance: “This trail is very dangerous when wet or icy, and its use for descent is not recommended at any time.”

Steven D. Smith, who has been editing the guide since 2003, is now at work on the 31st edition, due out next year. “It’s been a true honor for me,” says Smith. “I had the privilege of working on two editions with the late Gene Daniell, who shepherded the guide for a quarter century, [and] he impressed upon me that we editors are caretakers of a cherished tradition established with that tiny first edition.

“My hope is that even in the digital age, the guide will be an invaluable resource for White Mountain hikers for many years to come.” —Joe Bills

BRUCE LUET TERS

For over a century, the AMC White Mountain Guide has been keeping hikers on the right track.

NEWENGLAND.COM

3/11/21 11:11 AM

FIREWOOD ALERT! You have the power to protect forests and trees!

Pests like the invasive emerald ash borer can hitchhike in your firewood.

You can prevent the spread of these damaging insects and diseases by following these firewood tips:

 Buy locally harvested firewood at or near your destination.  Buy certified heat-treated firewood ahead of time, if available.  Gather firewood on site when permitted.

What might be in your firewood firewood? ?

THOUSAND CANKERS DISEASE of black walnut is caused by the walnut twig beetle and a fungus it carries to trees. The walnut twig beetle is tiny — about the size of the “I” on a dime — and thousands of them could be hiding in the bark of a single piece of walnut firewood.

OAK WILT is a deadly disease of oak trees, especially red oaks.

This disease is a fungus spread between trees by small beetles — and this deadly fungus could easily be brought to your neighborhood or favorite camping spot through infected firewood.

GYPSY MOTH is a devastating pest of oaks and other trees. Female moths lay tan patches of eggs on firewood, campers, vehicles, patio furniture — anything outside! When these items are moved to new areas, this pest gets a free ride.

ASIAN LONGHORNED BEETLE will tunnel through, and destroy, over 20 species of trees — especially maple trees. The larvae of this beetle bore into tree branches and trunks, making it an easy pest to accidentally transport in firewood.

SPOTTED LANTERNFLY sucks sap from dozens of tree and plant species. This pest loves tree-ofheaven but will feed on black walnut, white oak, sycamore, and grape.

Like the gypsy moth, this pest lays clusters of eggs on just about any dry surface, from landscaping stone to firewood!

EMERALD ASH BORER — the infamous killer of ash trees — is found in forests and city trees across much of the eastern and central United States.

This insect is notoriously good at hitching rides in infested firewood. Don’t give this tree-killing bug a ride to a new forest, or a new state!

This graphic is for illustrative purposes only. Many of these pests will only infest certain types of trees, making it impossible for a single log to contain all species as shown.

BRUCE LUET TERS

Visit dontmovefirewood.org for more information.

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GARDEN TOUR

PRETTY as a

PICTURE A garden photographer’s garden offers a master class in composition.

BY A N N I E G R AV E S P H OTO S BY J O S E P H VA L E N T I N E

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Spheres of dwarf boxwood and arborvitae nestle against a peastone path behind the main house on Joseph and Paula Valentine’s Juniper Hill Farm.

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GARDEN TOUR

rancestown, New Hampshire, can feel like a village that time forgot.

Main Street is classic New England, with its Capes and colonials and old meetinghouse fronting the green, but the surrounding countryside is also riddled with meandering roads, dirt and paved, that beg you to drive off the map and into another era.

I duck down one of these lanes, dappled sunlight filtering through a canopy of maple and oak leaves, the driveway only as wide as my car. It is fringed with hay-scented ferns and hemmed in by craggy stone walls.

“This was the old coach road from Greenfield to Francestown,” explains Joseph Valentine, greeting me at the end of the drive. His gaze takes in the view of Juniper Hill Farm, once 600 acres, now 30. Fields spread out around us, sheep graze, and a c. 1789 dark-brown half-gambrel hunkers over the land, just as it has since George 38 |

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left : Photographer Joseph Valentine with his wife, Paula, and their corgi, Christina. far left :

Verdant planters and boxwoods (Buxus x ‘Green Mountain‘) frame the entrance to the Valentines’ c. 1789 saltbox.

above :

The crimson of the c. 1830 hay barn is echoed in a cluster of Echinacea ‘Solar Flare’ and a pair of Japanese maples amid the cool greens of ornamental grasses (Miscanthus sinensis ‘Morning Light’), boxwoods, ferns, and a yew topiary (Taxus x media ‘Hicksii’).

left : Blooming crabapple trees (Malus sargentii ‘Tina’) and Tinkerbelle lilacs (Syringa x ‘Bailbelle’) lend soft pastels to the courtyard garden. far left :

Wave petunias fill antique iron urns along the pool, which also features a profusion of catmint (Nepeta racemosa ‘Walker’s Low‘) and hedges of yew, privet, and boxwood.

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GARDEN TOUR

A small gate marks a break in a tall hedge of European hornbeam (Carpinus betulis); beyond it is a statue of Diana, goddess of the hunt, with her dog.

Washington was president. “Typical New England architecture, they kept building on,” he says. “It was so functional. You could go from the house to the barn to feed the animals in wintertime without ever going outside.”

But outside is where we’ll be. It’s the gardens I’ve come for, nearly two acres, ringing out from the house like ripples. They’ve been expanding since 2000, when Joe and his wife, Paula, made this weekend retreat their fulltime home—he, a retired research psychologist about to turn serious photographer; she, the executive director of the Mojaloop Foundation, an offshoot of the Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation. For the past 20 years, Joe has honed his artist’s eye, photographing gardens in the U.S. and in Europe for publications throughout the world—all while learning, planting, and creating in his own backyard.

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It is a garden photographer’s dream.

“For me it was like a succession of garden rooms that I built out,” he says.

“We started at the house with a little courtyard garden, then added sequentially. If you’ve got a flat space, like we do here, you can create surprise and interest by making rooms. You don’t see the whole garden in one take.”

We ease in, starting at the “transitional” garden, wedged between the meadow and the more formal hedged gardens. It’s a tangle of native plants— bee balm, rudbeckia, Queen Anne’s lace. “We just let things self-seed here. The butterflies love it.” A rustic clothesline and a weathered woodshed pull us onward. Details have impact: terra-cotta pots nailed to the shed’s peak are half hidden by the leaves of an espaliered Bartlett pear tree. I remind myself to look back as well as ahead.

There are still lifes everywhere.

Paula, who does the container and raised-bed gardening (“we meet in the middle with perennials”), joins us; the couple’s corgi, Christina, jumps in as adjunct tour guide. A garden is a living thing, always evolving, plants and plans shifting like the weather. The former Potager, overlooking the grazing sheep, is being seeded back to grass, its raised vegetable beds moved closer to the house, where Paula can tend them more easily. A quick turn inland from the fields, and we encounter the Stumpery, a small woodland garden that sprouts actual stumps, twisted and sculptural, rescued from a nearby garden center, alongside a living corkscrew willow.

There is no hint of the 30-year-old pool until we round a corner. Sheltered and serene, it is cloaked by a boxwood hedge, planted to shield its bright blueness from the house. “The pool was here well before we came,” says Paula, who likes to swim in the evening. “It’s held up nicely.” The perimeter is edged with graying teak benches and tables festooned with red umbrellas. Planters made of hypertufa (a composite concrete mix) spill over with rosy Supertunias. At one end, Joe has built a tiny pool house “folly,” modeled after the gazebos at Hidcote Manor Garden in England. “We copied the measurements and roof style,” he says, nodding toward the swooping, pointed top. “There’s a guy in town who helped me—the roof was a bit above my pay grade,” he admits with a grin.

In the gentle Faun Garden, a Japanese maple is the dominant element, plus an old, unidentified crabapple.

But along the way there are details to absorb, each its own kind of quiet meditation: a granite millstone set at an intersection, a clump of birch stumps topped with terra-cotta pots (“for ‘pots-erity,’” says Paula), a blushing ‘Quick Fire’ hydrangea that’s a great performer and an early bloomer, NEWENGLAND.COM

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GARDEN TOUR

New England Gardens That Inspire Joseph Valentine Arnold Arboretum: Designed by Frederick Law Olmsted, this 281-acre landscape features one of the world’s most comprehensive collections of temperate woody plants, in the heart of New England’s biggest city.

Boston, MA; arboretum.harvard.edu Coastal Maine Botanical Garden: Seventeen acres of gardens (set amid 295 total) feature native plants and others suited to northern coastal conditions. There’s also a café serving delicious lunches (often lobster), and a garden shop for mementos. Boothbay, ME; mainegardens.org The Garden Conservancy: The conservancy’s Open Days program allows entry to spectacular private gardens that would normally be off-limits to visitors. A handful of areas to consider: Litchfield, CT; Monadnock Region, NH; Nantucket, MA. gardenconservancy.org Hollister House: This American interpretation of such classic English gardens as Sissinghurst, Great Dixter, and Hidcote is formal in its structure but informal and exuberant in its style of planting. Washington, CT; hollisterhousegarden.org Mount Desert Island Gardens: Asticou Azalea Garden, Thuya Garden, and Abby Aldrich Rockefeller Garden are as notable for their creators as their plantings. Beautiful displays of mixed borders, Japaneseinspired rooms, and moss-covered woods make this trio perfect for an outing along the rocky vistas of Seal Harbor. Mount Desert Island, ME; gardenpreserve.org Tower Hill Botanic Garden: Discover four-season displays of the finest plants for cultivation in New England, from ornamental to edible to native. Trails enhance the natural features of this 171-acre property, which is a great place to see mature plantings resilient to our climate.

Boylston, MA; towerhillbg.org

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morphing from pink to almost red by the end of August.

Joe points out a “wall” in the Zen Garden, copied from one at Sakonnet Garden in Little Compton, Rhode Island. The large rectangular grid frames the landscape beyond, the way a picture window would, but suddenly you’re looking at the garden in a whole new way. “That’s the whole object,” he says. They plan to do some rearranging in here, based on ideas gleaned from Asticou Azalea Garden on Mount Desert Island, Maine.

We move on to the pergola, swathed in chocolate vine, a fast grower that’s covered with deep-burgundy f lowers in the spring. Crushed-stone pathways ebb and f low in all directions, and I glimpse more of Joe’s handiwork: a barn-red garden gate, and another in a brilliant shade of periwinkle. Here is where deep artistry comes in—making sure that transitions work in every direction. I covet a small antique stone owl, worn by weather, perched on a granite post.

There is the Land of Broken Pots garden. So many lilacs: Tinkerbelle, and an enormous Miss Kim hedge.

Split rail fences that Joe split himself. A mossy water garden, with Palibin lilacs and plants gifted from garden friends.

And there’s another little building that Joe completed the day before their last Garden Conservancy Tour.

“It’s a replica of Prince Charles’s temple at Highgrove House—the one in

Surrounding an inviting little frog pond is a variety of shade-loving perennials, including hostas, rodgersias, darmeras, and Japanese forest grasses.

his woodland garden,” he says. “You can’t take photos when you’re there, so I kind of figured out the dimensions by looking at photos.” We survey the rustic columns, the tangle of juniper branches decorating the peak, the view to the stone-ringed pond. “He’s got a much more beautiful bench inside,” Joe says. “Probably the King of Tibet gave it to him,” Paula remarks. With its weathered grace, I’ll take Joe’s temple any day. It seems the perfect place to sit and ponder it all, to reflect back on the early days, on that first small garden.

And really, it started so simply, when the famous author and garden designer Gordon Hayward paid them a visit.

“Gordon’s a good friend of ours,” Joe says. “I asked him, ‘What would you do with that little area near the house?’ He took out his doodle pad, sketched for a moment, and said, ‘I’d do this!’”

Joe shakes his head. “Gordon always lays claim to getting us started, which is true! And maybe I should have stopped right there. But you know the problem—if you’re a creative person, you enjoy the creative part.

That’s the fun of it. But you should know when to stop.”

His eyes get a faraway look. “Still … if I could maintain it … I’d make another garden.”

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OPEN STUDIO

The Spirit of the Birchbark Canoe

Steve Cayard’s artistic creations draw on Wabanaki craftsmanship and a deep respect for nature. B Y A N N I E G R A V E S PHOTOS BY SÉAN ALONZO HARRIS

t is impossible to look at one of Steve Cayard’s birchbark canoes and not hear music.

The curving interior ribs are like echoes, ringing down the length of the canoe, and the body of the canoe opens up like a whole note, full and throaty.

The canoe in question, Denizen, is heading off from Cayard’s workshop in Wellington, Maine, to its new home in Massachusetts. It is 19 feet long, its 44 |

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bark is exceptionally thick, and the side panels—those swaths of winter bark whose reddish interior can be scratched to make designs—are decorated with images of bear paw prints, beech leaves and nuts, polypody ferns, and a bear face peering up through the bark.

Perhaps it is so harmonious because it coalesces from the forest floor itself, and is stitched together by hands as familiar with birchbark as they are with

To build his birchbark canoes, Steve Cayard relies on Indigenous tools such as the “crooked knife”—like this one made by Aaron York, a Vermont Abenaki, that features the face of the Wabanaki hero-creator Gluskap.

the spruce roots that lash it together and the springy cedar that forms those curving ribs. Cayard’s canoes are based on decades of studying traditional Wabanaki craftsmanship from books, old photos, and museum pieces, his NEWENGLAND.COM

3/11/21 11:25 AM

www.yankeebarnhomes.com | 603-727-4034

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OPEN STUDIO

top : The names of Cayard’s canoes are as unique as their designs: Spiral Fire, Bunchberry, Lunksoos (Penobscot for wolverine), and, here with Cayard, the recently completed Denizen. above : A detail of the hand-etched ornamentation on Denizen’s side panel. left : Cayard uses a traditional drawknife to rough out a stem piece, which later will be bent to fit inside the end of the canoe.

work reflecting the expertise and style of the Passamaquoddy, Penobscot, and Maliseet tribes of Maine and New Brunswick. All this, paired with a deep knowledge of the woods.

He is good enough to work with notable museums to help “stabilize” their birchbark treasures, and he has built 33 canoes on his own; another 23 in group projects. He figures it takes an average of 500 hours to create a canoe—once all of the materials have been collected.

“Given the thousands of years that went into developing Wabanaki hull 46 |

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design, it’s hard to improve on it,” says Cayard, 65, from his workshop, located about an hour northwest of Bangor. The hand-built structure, its interior clad in white pine and the air fragrant with cedar, is tucked onto a six-acre patch of land dotted with other weathered buildings, where he and his wife, Angela, have lived off the grid since 1987.

Warmed by a woodstove and a f lannel shirt, his reddish beard infiltrated with a patch of winter white, Cayard hunches at one end of the shaving horse he built to be portable,

for easier transport to workshops.

Ingenious and simple, it is both work surface and vise—a traditional European woodworking tool used by colonists and adopted early on by Indigenous communities.

But it is the “crooked knife,” wielded with a sure hand, that sparks imagination. A traditional Native hand tool, it cuts and shapes the wood as if the two are partners in conjuring a canoe. Tight curls of shaved cedar drop to the floor.

The wood smooths out. “It’s a very efficient way to carve wood, using the bicep for better depth of cut,” Cayard says, NEWENGLAND.COM

3/11/21 11:27 AM

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above :

Steve Cayard at his canoe-building headquarters. left : There are no metal fastenings in his canoes—only rock maple pegs and lashings made from red spruce roots. below : A creative spirit can be seen across Cayard’s off-the-grid homestead, as with this sculpture by Maine folk artist Wally Warren that adorns an old workshop.

pulling the blade toward himself, a defiance of every usual rule of knife use.

His hand tools are old, well cared for, some made by himself and others handed down. One knife stands out among the others, a face carved into its dark handle. It was a gift from an Abenaki friend, he explains, and the face represents Gluskap, a traditional hero-creator in Wabanaki stories.

“His lips are puckered,” Cayard points out, “because he’s blowing life into the canoe as it’s being carved.”

In fact, that is how it feels.

Right now, it’s hard to imagine a more f itting way to drift off into the natural world than kneeling on the f loor of this birchbark canoe.

Wabanaki canoes are fast under paddle, according to Cayard, yet very stable.

They f loat high, with a lot of natural 48 |

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buoyancy, and are extremely responsive to steering. “It’s hard to describe how it feels in the water.” He searches for the words. “It feels like nothing else.”

W hen asked how one becomes a builder of birchbark canoes, he

says, simply, “It started with love of nature, and spending a lot of time in the woods.” Growing up in West Virginia, he dropped out of high school after his junior year and headed to Maine, which somehow “seemed more like home than where I grew up.” He took odd jobs, but mostly he spent time in the woods, in libraries, in museums. “I was always interested in ways of living off the land, edible plants, learning from experience.

It led me to the study of traditional Native culture.”

He built his first canoe when he was 22. By 1996, he was proficient enough to teach workshops at the Wooden­ Boat School in Brook lin, Maine, where for six seasons he guided students in building a canoe from scratch.

At the end of each workshop, one NEWENGLAND.COM

3/11/21 11:28 AM

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OPEN STUDIO

lucky student would win a drawing and go home with the canoe.

But for Cayard, his experience changed when Barry Dana, then chief of the Penobscot Nation on Indian Island, in Old Town, Maine, asked him to lead a birchbark canoe workshop on the reser vation in 2002. “When I started working in the Native communities, it was just more rewarding,” Cayard says. “This was something that the communities understood, even if it was dormant. It meant a lot.”

That understanding is evident in the film Agwiden, by D’Arcy Marsh, documenting the 2002 workshop. In it, we see Cayard size up a birch in the forest—it must be just right. He scales the tree, removing the bark in one impossibly long piece with the help of the men below. Red spruce roots are unearthed and untangled, to be boiled and peeled for the lashings. Step by step, the canoe builders curve the single sheet of bark into a rough shape, add side panels, split cedar to make ribs, hone and whittle with drawknife and crooked knife, and fit plankings together to finish the interior. A week after they start building, they launch the canoe, drums beating like hearts.

Everyone gets a turn paddling. “To launch at Indian Island was an emotional experience,” he says.

Each tree is different. “I interact with each one on its own terms,” Cayard says, quietly. “Spirituality is a hard thing to pin down, but it’s definitely there, and a relationship with forest, land, trees. There’s a longstanding tradition of that spiritual connection in Native communities, and I appreciate that. It’s moving to me in a way I can fully appreciate because of my own connection to the natural world.” He admits, “I do talk to the trees.”

F R E E P O R T, P O R T L A N D A N D S C A R B O R O U G H | M A I N E C H I LT O N S . C O M

Steve Cayard’s commissioned canoes are $1,000 per foot; for more information, go to stevecayard.com. To view the film Agwiden, go to vimeo.com/77745115.

MAY | JUNE 2021

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Food

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SUMMER DINING

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NEWENGLAND.COM

3/11/21 11:44 AM

A MOVABLE FEAST Fresh summer recipes designed for the grill, the fire pit, or even your next camping trip.

B Y A M Y T R AV E R S O | P H O T O S B Y M I C H A E L P I A Z Z A F O O D S T Y L I N G B Y C AT R I N E K E LT Y | P R O P S T Y L I N G B Y C A R O L I N E W O O D WA R D

MAY | JUNE 2021

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I

f there is a silver lining to be found in my pandemic kitchen—even after the Great Flour Panic of 2020, the demise of dinner parties, and the simple boredom of it all—it’s that necessity pushed me out of the kitchen and into the great outdoors. After years of dogged devotion to our old charcoal kettle grill, we switched to a gas model for pure ease of use and have since relished outdoor cooking even in

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the coldest months. During an RV tour up the Maine coast last summer, I cooked all our meals over a campfire, turning out delicious feasts with just a skillet and a cooking grate. I felt outdoorsy and newly competent. That’s one of the joys of cooking: There’s always something new to learn.

Inspired by my memories of that trip, I’ve created a menu that works well on your backyard grill or in the backcountry.

NEWENGLAND.COM

3/11/21 11:46 AM

GRILLING 101

Pull-Apart Skillet Garlic Bread

PULL-APART SKILLET GARLIC BREAD

These buttery, garlicky rolls are a major crowd-pleaser. They’re easiest to bake in a lidded charcoal or gas grill, but I have made them in a covered skillet over a fire pit. Just be sure to keep a close eye on them so the bottom doesn’t burn before they’re fully cooked. Alternatively, you could bake them in hot coals after your fire has burned down.

3 tablespoons salted butter 3 tablespoons olive oil 7 large garlic cloves, minced –½ teaspoon chili flakes ¼ 1–1½ pounds prepared pizza dough ¹⁄ 3 cup plus ¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese

Digging into our campfire-inspired feast: Pull-Apart Skillet Garlic Bread, Spring Pea Salad, and Shrimp and Corn “Clambake” Packs. For Campfire S’mores Dip, see p. 58.

From clambake-inspired grill packs to pull-apart skillet garlic bread to a springy salad, these dishes are packed with flavor and easy to execute. There’s even a fun take on s’mores for dessert. The menu may be a bit too refined for backpacking, but anyone with access to a decent supermarket and a roomy cooler can pull it off with aplomb and no small amount of sizzle.

MAY | JUNE 2021

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Melt the butter with the olive oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-low heat.

Add garlic and chili flakes and cook until garlic is just translucent, about 1 minute. Pull the pan off the heat and cool for 10 minutes while you prepare the dough.

Dust your work surface with flour.

Divide the pizza dough into four pieces, then roll each piece into a rope about 1½ inches wide. Cut each rope into 2-inch lengths and roll each piece into a ball.

Sprinkle ¹⁄3 cup grated Parmesan over the garlic butter in the skillet.

Roll each ball of dough in this mixture and arrange the coated balls around the skillet. Leave room between each

Direct heat: Food is placed directly over the heat source, whether that’s logs, coals, or gas flames.

Usually, the entire grill is lit.

This is generally better for faster forms of cooking, such as grilling hamburgers.

Indirect heat: Only one side of the grill is lit, creating a hot zone and a cooler zone. This is usually better for slower forms of cooking, such as barbecuing large cuts of meat.

Low heat: Approximately 325° to 350°. You should be able to hold your hand an inch above the grate for about six seconds.

Medium heat: Approximately 350° to 450°.

You should be able to hold your hand an inch above the grate for about four seconds.

High heat: Approximately 450° to 550°. You should be able to hold your hand an inch above the grate for barely two seconds.

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SUMMER DINING

ball, as they will expand. Cover the pan with foil and let the balls rise for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, prepare your grill for indirect, medium-high heat (about 400°). When the dough has risen and the grill is hot, set the skillet, covered with foil, over the cooler area of the grill. Cover and cook for 20 minutes, then remove the foil, sprinkle with the remaining ¼ cup cheese and bake until cooked through, 5 to 10 minutes more. Serve warm. Yields 6 to 8 servings.

SPRING PEA SALAD

Packed with flavor and protein, this colorful salad is substantial enough to be a meal in itself. The added bacon is delicious, but you can eliminate it if you’re vegetarian. The salad is best when served right away, but it will keep overnight, even if it’s dressed.

3 strips bacon, diced (optional) 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1½ teaspoons Dijon mustard 1¼ teaspoons honey ½ teaspoon kosher salt 1 medium garlic clove, minced 2 cups frozen peas, thawed ¾ cup thinly sliced cucumbers ¾ cup thinly sliced radishes 2 scallions, green parts only, sliced diagonally ½ cup crumbled feta

In a large skillet over medium heat, cook bacon, stirring often, until browned and crisp, 8 to 10 minutes.

Remove bacon with a slotted spoon and discard (or save) bacon grease.

In a medium jar with a tight-fitting lid, combine olive oil, lemon juice, mustard, honey, salt, and garlic. Shake well to combine.

Arrange peas, cucumbers, and radishes in a serving bowl. Top with scallions, feta, and reserved bacon bits.

Drizzle with dressing and toss just before serving. Yields 4 to 6 servings.

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Spring Pea Salad

COOKING WITH LIVE FIRE Setup: You can make any of these recipes on a grate set over a live fire or fire pit (if you’re cooking over a storebought fire pit, be sure to consult the manufacturer’s instructions).

Cast-iron cookware is ideal for this kind of heat, and aluminum foil is always handy. Use woods such as oak, apple, cherry, hickory, and mesquite. Do not use pine, as the resins give off foul smoke. Never cook over a gas fire pit.

Temperature: Managing heat is the biggest challenge with live-fire cooking.

Use the hand measurements described on p. 55 to estimate the temperature, and remember that a fire’s heat diminishes over time. You can modulate your heat by moving the food closer to or farther from the fire (either by setting it off to the side or raising it higher). Check food for doneness regularly.

Safety: Choose a safe place to build a fire, at least eight feet away from bushes or anything flammable, and form a perimeter around the fire using rocks or green logs. Always keep metal tongs, fireproof gloves, and a bucket of water nearby. Never leave a fire unattended.

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Food

|

SUMMER DINING

Shrimp and Corn “Clambake” Packs

Campfire S’Mores Dip

1 tablespoon salted butter 1 pound semisweet chocolate chips ¹⁄ 8 teaspoon kosher salt 8 ounces large marshmallows, halved crosswise Graham crackers, broken into individual pieces

SHRIMP AND CORN “CLAMBAKE” PACKS

Inspired by the iconic New England clambake, this dish replaces lobster with quick-cooking shrimp, along with spicy sausage, corn, and potatoes. Smoked mussels are optional but add a wood-fired flavor.

1 pound (26–30 count) tail-on shrimp 4 ounces linguiça, chouriço, or other spicy sausage, cut into ¼-inch- thick disks 2 ears of corn, each shucked and cut crosswise into 8 pieces 2 medium red potatoes, thinly sliced 1 tin (4 ounces) smoked mussels (optional) 4 tablespoons salted butter, divided 4 large cloves garlic, minced 1 teaspoon Old Bay seasoning, divided Minced fresh parsley, for garnish

Prepare your grill for direct, mediumhigh heat (about 400°).

Lay four sheets of aluminum foil, each about 15 inches long, on your 58 |

YK0521_Food_Opener_Campfire.indd 58

counter. Top each sheet of foil with an Polenta with equal-size sheet of parchment paper.

Gorgonzola Divide the shrimp, sausage, corn, and Honey potatoes, mussels, butter, garlic, and Old Bay seasoning equally among the packets, piling the seafood, sausage, and vegetables in the center and topping them with the butter, garlic, and seasoning. Fold the foil and parchment paper up over the ingredients, pinching securely at the top to seal.

Set the packets on the grill grate, cover, and cook until the shrimp is fully cooked and the corn is tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Yields 4 servings.

Set a skillet over direct medium-high heat (400°). Melt butter, add the salt and chocolate, and stir. Top with marshmallows, cover with a lid or foil, and cook until marshmallows are melted, 7 to 10 minutes. Remove from grill and serve warm with graham crackers for dipping. Yields 8 servings.

CAMPFIRE S’MORES DIP

This gooey dessert couldn’t be simpler: You just melt some chocolate in a skillet, top with marshmallows, cover, and cook.

To eat, dip the graham crackers into the sauce. If you want a nicely browned top, it does help to have access to an oven’s broiler, a small kitchen torch, or a carefully wielded flaming branch.

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Food

|

IN SEASON

Strawberry Cannoli Tart An Italian-inspired dessert to savor.

BY A MY TR AVER SO

Amy Traverso is Yankee’s senior food editor and cohost of our TV show, Weekends with Yankee (weekendswithyankee.com).

ST YLED AND PHOTOGR APHED BY

L I Z N E I LY

STRAWBERRY CANNOLI TART This tart looks so pretty when baked in a rectangular tart pan, so I used a 14-by-5½-inch pan. However, you can also use a 9- or 10-inch round pan, if that’s what you have. Also, you can prepare and bake the crust up to two days ahead of time (cover and store at room temperature).

FOR THE CRUST

½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened ¹⁄ 3 cup granulated sugar 1 large egg yolk 1¼ cups all-purpose flour ¼ teaspoon table salt 1½ tablespoons heavy cream FOR THE FILLING

trawberry season is upon us. Good-bye spongy, underripe berries from afar; hello juicy, local fruit! Everything about this time of year—from its brevity to the delicate perishability of the berries themselves—is a call to savor the moment. It’s nature at its most fleeting.

The harvest usually kicks into gear in early June, but this varies by latitude and according to the weather.

Everything wraps up in a matter of weeks, though some farmers are now growing “day-neutral” varieties, which can produce well into September. As anyone who went apple picking last 60 |

YK0521_Food_InSeason.indd 60

fall can attest, pick-your-own farms are among the most popular openair destinations around (we spotted families tailgating in the parking lot of one farm), so do call ahead.

Berries in hand, head to the kitchen to make this delightful tart inspired by the classic Italian cannoli. The filling begins with ricotta, which is scented with vanilla and orange zest, fluffed with whipped cream, and set with gelatin. The crust is a simple press-in dough that tastes like sugar cookies but crunches like a cannoli shell. Be sure to budget at least an hour for the filling to set—this is a make-ahead dessert, and well worth the wait.

¼ cup milk 1 package (2½ teaspoons) gelatin 1¾ cups whole-milk ricotta cheese ½ cup powdered sugar 1¼ teaspoons orange zest 1¼ teaspoons vanilla extract ¼ teaspoon table salt ¾ cup heavy cream 1 pound strawberries sliced, plus raspberries or red currants (optional), for garnish

First, make the crust: Using a handheld or stand mixer, cream the butter and sugar in a medium bowl on medium-high speed for 2 minutes. Add the egg yolk and beat until combined. Add the flour and NEWENGLAND.COM

3/12/21 9:45 AM

salt and beat on low speed for 30 seconds. Add the cream and mix on low until the dough comes together.

Gather the dough into a ball, press into a disk, and wrap in plastic wrap.

Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes and up to overnight.

Break the dough into pieces and press them into the tart pan and up the sides to create an even layer about ¹⁄8 inch thick (pay attention to the corners, where dough tends to pile up). Dip the flat bottom of a cup in flour and use it to press the dough more evenly. Transfer the pan to the refrigerator to firm up for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, preheat your oven to 350°.

Prick the bottom of the pastry shell all over with a fork. Bake the pastry shell for 15 minutes, then remove from the oven and use the back of a teaspoon to press down any areas that have puffed up.

Return to the oven and bake until golden brown, 10 to 15 minutes more. Remove and let cool to room temperature.

Meanwhile, make the filling: Pour the milk into a small saucepan, sprinkle the gelatin over it, and let sit for 5 minutes to soften. Set the saucepan over medium heat, gently whisking, just until the mixture begins to steam, 1 to 2 minutes.

Remove from heat and set aside.

In a medium bowl, stir together the ricotta, powdered sugar, orange zest, vanilla extract, and salt. Add the milk-gelatin mixture and stir until blended.

In a large bowl, whip the cream to medium peaks. Gently fold the cream into the ricotta mixture until blended. Pour the filling into the prepared tart shell and chill until set, at least 1 hour and up to 1 day.

Garnish with strawberry slices in a shingled pattern, adding vertical slices for height and variety. Add raspberries or red currants, if desired.

Serve cold, with extra strawberry slices on the side. Yields 8 servings.

MAY | JUNE 2021

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ELECTRIC GRILLS Since 1931

| 61

3/15/21 4:07 PM

Food

|

RECIPE REMAKE

Weeknight Chicken and Dumplings A classic Yankee recipe updated for today’s kitchens.

BY A MY TR AVER SO ST YLED AND PHOTOGR APHED BY

L I Z N E I LY

Our streamlined chicken and dumplings recipe ( ABOVE ) was inspired by many Yankee variations over the years, including “Potted Chicken with Parsley-Bread Dumplings” from October 1942 (TOP).

62 |

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n this new column, we’ll rev isit favorite Yankee recipes from years past and update them for the way we cook now. So as we contemplated where to begin, the answer was easy: chicken and dumplings. This tried-and-true recipe is a consistent favorite among our readers, and with good reason.

It is not, however, an easy weeknight dish. You simmer a whole chicken for an hour, then let the meat cool and take it off the bone. Meanwhile, you make the dumpling dough, roll it out, and cut it. It’s a wonderful recipe: cozy, economical, delicious. But it’s not the stuff of everyday cooking.

This updated version is. It starts w ith store-bought chicken stock (though you can always use homemade), a rotisserie chicken, and simple drop dumplings. We boost the f lavor of the chicken stock by adding very aromatic vegetables such as leeks, carrots, celery, fennel, and garlic. And before you know it, dinner is ready. The f lour from the dumplings thickens the broth, making it almost creamy. And if you want to make the dish more economical, you can always use the chicken carcass to cook up a whole new pot of stock.

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Food

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RECIPE REMAKE

WEEKNIGHT CHICKEN AND DUMPLINGS FOR THE SOUP

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YK0521_Food_RecipeRemake.indd 64

3 tablespoons olive or canola oil 2 celery stalks, diced 1 leek (white and light green parts

only), diced 1 small onion (any kind), diced 2 medium carrots, peeled and diced ½ fennel bulb, cored and diced (reserve fronds for garnish) 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 7 cups reduced-sodium chicken stock Meat from a 2- or 3-pound rotisserie chicken, chopped into bite-size pieces

2 cups all-purpose flour 1½ teaspoons baking powder ½ teaspoon baking soda ¾ teaspoon kosher salt 6 tablespoons salted butter, melted ¾ cup buttermilk

In a large Dutch oven or soup pot, heat the oil over medium heat. Add all the vegetables, salt, and pepper, and cook, stirring often, until the onions are translucent, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the chicken stock, bring to a boil, then reduce heat to a simmer and cook for 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, make the dumplings: In a large bowl, combine the dry ingredients. Stir in the butter with a fork until well distributed. The mixture will look crumbly. Add the buttermilk and gently stir with a spatula just until the dough comes together.

Add the chicken to the soup pot, then use a cookie scoop or a large spoon to scoop out golf ball–size dumplings and drop them into the broth. Cover the pot and cook until the dumplings are fully cooked, 10 to 12 minutes more. Garnish with the reserved fennel fronds, and serve.

Yields 8 servings.

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While the sight of gleaming Airstreams may evoke simpler times pre–Route 6 gridlock, these aren’t your grandparents’ recreational vehicles. The 88 iconic metal trailers are tricked out with Tempur-Pedic queen beds, heat and air-conditioning, bathrooms, mini fridges, and more.

There are also some sleek cabins and tents on offer, all anchored by the midcentury modern clubhouse where you’ll find a bar—with wine and kombucha on tap, naturally—and a store offering BBQ fixings and s’mores kits. But our favorite perk at

this new glamping option? Location, location, location. A five-mile ride on the nearby Shining Sea Bikeway brings you past multiple beaches to Woods Hole and the ferry to Martha’s Vineyard. autocamp.com ACADIA-ADJACENT LUXURY UNDER CANVAS ACADIA (SURRY, ME)

Forgo the Mount Desert Island crowds for this serene site, which hugs more than 1,200 feet of Patten Bay coastline. Each of the 63 spacious, safari-style tents boasts West Elm furniture, a wood-burning stove, and organic toiletries—plus daily housekeeping. A café serves NEWENGLAND.COM

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eed further proof that upscale camping has truly arrived in New England? Not one, but two luxury lodging companies opened their first East Coast outposts this spring: AutoCamp Cape Cod in Massachusetts, and Under Canvas Acadia in Maine. And though all glamping sites offer a chance to experience nature while ensconced in creature comforts—with nary a leaky pup tent or jagged s’mores stick in sight—each one has its particular charms. Ahead, get the lowdown on five spots where you can sleep under the stars in style this summer.

—Courtney Hollands

ELEVATED SUMMER-CAMP VIBES HUTTOPIA WHITE MOUNTAINS (ALBANY, NH)

While this family-friendly resort is ideally situated for exploring the White Mountain National Forest, there’s also plenty to do on-site: a heated saltwater pool, games in the lodge, a playground, even a refurbished Airstream trailer serving up French-style crepes and flatbread pizza (pair yours with a Huttopia beer, crafted in collaboration with local Hobbs Tavern and Brewing Co.). What’s more, guests park in designated areas and wheel their luggage in on trolleys, ensuring a car-free haven for kids to roam. As for sleeping quarters, you choose the degree of rusticity: Though all 87 tents and 10 cabins are equipped with electricity, not all have en suite bathrooms. huttopia.com INSTA-WORTHY ROUGHING IT TOPS’L FARM (WALDOBORO, ME)

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breakfast and dinner, and outdoor adventures await at Acadia National Park (a 35-minute drive away) or at the campsite’s dock, where famed swordfishing captain Linda Greenlaw and her crew take guests on lobstering, sunset, and night-sky cruises. Of course, you could just book one of the “Stargazer” tents and catch the twinkling display via the viewing windows above your king-size bed. undercanvas.com

From the cute camp store selling biodynamic wines to the resident sheep and chickens and the 10 A-frame cabins straight out of a Wes Anderson movie, Tops’l Farm is rife with say-cheese opportunities.

(Note that the phone-charging station is in the shared bathhouse, as the cabins don’t have electricity.)

Two-night weekend stays on select dates this summer and fall include a picnic supper on Friday, a sit-down barn dinner on Saturday, and packed breakfasts to go, as well as activities galore: yoga and meditation, canoeing MAY | JUNE 2021

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on the Medomak River, and garden open houses, where you can dig in and learn about the working farm. See? Picture-perfect. topslfarm.com STYLISH SOCIAL DISTANCING GETAWAY BLAKE BROOK (EPSOM, NH)

Thoreau once said, “By my intimacy with nature I find myself withdrawn from man. My interest in the sun and the moon, in the morning and the evening, compels me to solitude.”

He would have loved Getaway Blake Brook. The fully furnished tiny cabins—each with a private fire pit, giant picture window, and lockbox for stashing phones—are spread across 20 wooded acres near Concord and Bear Brook State Park, a Granite State gem crisscrossed with hiking trails. With dwellings spaced 50 to 100 feet apart and no Wi-Fi or communal spaces, this place is made for shutting out the workaday world. (But if you do crave company, or just a pale ale, Blasty Bough Brewing Company is a short walk from camp.) getaway.house A cozy cabin at Maine’s Tops’l Farm.

The Innto-Inn Crowd You want to play hard and relax hard, preferably in a cushy bed with breakfast in the morning. That’s where inn-to-inn tour operators come in. They book the accommodations, schlep the luggage, and plan the route—all you have to do is pedal, paddle, or perambulate between B&Bs and enjoy the scenery. —C.H.

BIKE Dunes, harbors, and lighthouses, oh my! Cycle around Massachusetts’s North Shore and Cape Ann on the six-day, five-night “Maritime New England” bike tour from Great Freedom Adventures, with stays at the Garrison Inn, the Ipswich Inn, and the Emerson Inn. Along the way, there are stretches of out-of-saddle time for exploring, beach naps, even kayaking. greatfreedomadventures.com

KAYAK Peep coves and seabirds as you paddle around Johns Bay, Likein Bay, and Boothbay Harbor on a fourday, three-night trip with Maine Kayak, then dock yourself right at the seaside Ocean Point Inn and Resort and Fisherman’s Wharf Inn. Breakfasts, lunches, and all equipment are included; you’re on your own for dinner (a lobster roll is clearly the on-theme order). mainekayak.com

WALK The Golden Stage Inn, the Pettigrew Inn, the Colonial House Inn, and the Inn Victoria are all stops on the Vermont Inn-to-Inn Walking Tour, a 40-plus-mile circuitous route through the state’s south-central backcountry.

The four-day, four-night trek is self-guided, so you can take the rolling hills at your own pace, admiring villages and historic cemeteries at will. vermontinntoinnwalking.com

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yard-core CURATE YOUR PICNIC LIKE A PRO.

For the ultimate alfresco meal in the New England outdoors, we’ve put together a hamper filled with regionally made treats, many of which can be ordered online. Some are old favorites; some are new to market. All are worth adding to your next movable feast. —Amy Traverso

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WHIRLWIND ROSÉ Gouveia Vineyards (CT) This blend of cold-tolerant hybrid grapes has lively acidity and a hint of sweetness that makes it a perfect balance for salumi and rich cheeses. gouveiavineyards.com

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BAGUETTE Fire Dog Breads (NH) What picnic is complete without a baguette? Pick a good, local loaf—our nominee comes from a Keene bakery founded by a former French history professor, Sam Temple. firedogbreads.com

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MINI PIES Petsi Pies (MA) Founder Renee “Petsi” McLeod dubbed these 3-inch pastries “Cutie Pies,” and we couldn’t agree more.

They’re not just cute, though; they’re downright delicious (don’t miss the sour cherry). petsipies.com

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*RASPBERRY RED CURRANT GERANIUM JAM V Smiley Preserves (VT) Former chef V Smiley uses her farm’s own fruit and herbs to make this intensely fresh, fragrant jam that pairs beautifully with cheeses. vsmileypreserves.com

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*HARBISON CHEESE Jasper Hill Farm (VT) This bloomy-rind cow’s-milk

cheese has a luscious creamy texture and piney, sweet grass flavors. jasperhillfarm.com

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*DEL DUCA PROSCIUTTO Daniele Charcuterie (RI) Silky sliced prosciutto shines when wrapped around fresh summer melon or piled onto fresh bread. danielefoods.com

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HIGHLANDER CHEESE Bridgman Hill Farm & Jasper Hill Farm (VT) Made in partnership by neighboring Northeast Kingdom farms, this semifirm cheese blends goat’s and cow’s milk to produce a rich and nutty cheese that evokes Swiss raclette. jasperhillfarm.com

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*FINOCCHIONA New England Charcuterie (MA) A classic Italian salami from southern Tuscany, finocchiona has the aromatic fennel seeds and sweet-salt balance that leaves us craving more. newenglandcharcuterie.com

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*ROCKWEED CHEESE Lakin’s Gorges Cheese (ME) A layer of rockweed powder in the center gives this semisoft cheese a uniquely briny, creamy flavor. lakinsgorgescheese.com *Indicates previous Yankee Food Awards winner

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hile New England may have only a handful of parks with “National” in their name, it is blessed with an enviable collection of state parks, including many whose names are known well beyond our region’s borders. What hiker doesn’t dream of conquering Baxter’s Mount Katahdin?

Who would want to miss the foliage fireworks of Franconia Notch? But just as appealing, especially now, are the parks with a quieter appeal, offering swaths of land to roam while rarely running into crowds. Here are seven hidden gems where you can find a retreat to restore body, mind, and spirit. —Steve Jermanok

DIXVILLE NOTCH STATE PARK DIXVILLE, NH

The narrowest of New Hampshire’s famed notches, Dixville, lies in its northern tier of the state, across from the legendary Balsams Grand Resort. For 145 years, until it closed in 2011, guests at this Gatsby-esque property could look up from one of the Adirondack chairs on the veranda and be rewarded with a majestic view of rock walls and twisted granite.

Once managed by Daniel Webster, Dixville Notch is now part of a namesake state park, replete with waterfalls, flume, and hiking trails. At only 127 acres, it’s by far the smallest park on this list—but take a hike up to the ledge known as Table Rock, and you’ll quickly see why it made the cut.

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The two options to the top are the moderate 1.5-mile Table Rock Trail and the more strenuous 2.8-mile Three Brothers Trail; many hikers combine the routes in order to visit Huntington Falls on the way. (Note: Though the ascent is only 751 feet, it’s steep and the footing can be muddy.)

Table Rock itself sits like a gangplank over sheer walls of rock, and for those not queasy about heights, it’s a memorable place to picnic and peer over the cliffs to Route 26 below. The view is stunning, encompassing the historic resort, Lake Gloriette, and the sharp ledges and hills that form the craggy notch. nhstateparks.org Sticking Around: There are rumors that the Balsams will reopen, but until that

As lovely as this view of Lake Gloriette is, it gets even better from atop Table Rock in nearby Dixville Notch State Park, New Hampshire.

time, stay at Paradise Point Cottages, 25 minutes down the road, on the shores of beautiful Umbagog Lake.

Going to Town: In Errol, you can rent a canoe or take a guided trip with North Waters Outfitters to explore Umbagog National Wildlife Refuge in hopes of spying one of its nesting pairs of bald eagles.

OCTOBER MOUNTAIN STATE FOREST LEE, MA

In 1899, former Navy Secretary William C. Whitney bought 11,000 acres in the heart of the Berkshires and stocked it with imported moose, elk, and buffalo as a gift for his son.

However, it turned out the younger Whitney—not being much of a Hemingway-style hunter—rarely ventured into the forest, and the land was soon turned over to the state.

Today, at 16,500 acres, October Mountain State Forest is the largest green space in Massachusetts.

One trip to these dense woods and lost ponds, and you realize why locals would like to keep this park their secret. Set in high-plateau country,

B R U C E L E U T T E R S ( D I X V I L L E N O T C H S . P. ) ; J E R R Y M O N K M A N / E C O P H O T O G R A P H Y ( J A M A I C A S . P. )

under-the-radar

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B R U C E L E U T T E R S ( D I X V I L L E N O T C H S . P. ) ; J E R R Y M O N K M A N / E C O P H O T O G R A P H Y ( J A M A I C A S . P. )

with elevations ranging from 1,800 to 2,000 feet, it’s an ideal place to cool off in summer. There’s a relatively easy nine-mile stretch of the Appalachian Trail that’s suited to family hikes, while Buckley Dunton Reservoir, stocked with bass and pickerel and hidden amid the hardwoods, beckons to anglers.

Wildlife in this part of the state is abundant: Chances are you’ll see deer, beavers, maybe even a bald eagle. But as local legend has it, there have been some bizarre sightings. Whitney’s surviving animals were sold to the Bronx Zoo—or were they? If you hear something rustling in the woods, look closely.... mass.gov/state-parks Sticking Around: Choose from 44 campsites and three yurts that can accommodate four to six people.

Going to Town: For a meal, there’s no better slice of Americana than Joe’s Diner in Lee. Norman Rockwell’s 1958 painting The Runaway, of a policeman talking to a young boy at a lunch counter, was partly based on this diner.

JAMAICA STATE PARK JAMAICA, VT

Here you can bike or hike to one of Vermont’s most majestic waterfalls, learn about local ecology and history, and cool off in a swimming hole. Add

a riverside campground only a halfmile from the amenities of town, and you’ve hit the jackpot.

A former railroad bed is now the 36-mile West River Trail, more than two miles of which runs through this 772-acre park and is dotted with nine nature stops. Accompanied by the rushing music of the West River, you’ll meander through a forest of birch, hemlock, spruce, ash, and maple.

The payoff is spectacular Hamilton Falls, which tumbles down 125 feet of granite ledges, making it one of Vermont’s highest waterfalls. Expect to find dog walkers (pups are permitted everywhere except swimming areas), horseback riders, mountain bikers, and joggers enjoying the level trail. And if it’s a warm day, you can take a dip in Salmon Hole, a classic swimming hole located by the parking lot.

If you bike or walk the length of the trail, you’ll reach a gravel road that leads to an engineering marvel, the Ball Mountain Dam. Built between 1957 and 1961 to control floods on the West River, the curving wall of the dam is 247 feet tall and 915 feet long—a sight to behold. vtstateparks.com Sticking Around: Reserve one of the 41 spacious tent sites or 18 lean-tos, some positioned along the river.

Jamaica State Park, Vermont

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Going to Town: Down the road in Jamaica, stock up on groceries and sandwiches at D&K’s or warm up with a plate of pad thai at Fran’s Kitchen.

ARCADIA MANAGEMENT AREA HOPE VALLEY, RI

There’s something liberating about the sport of mountain biking. You get the opportunity to pedal down trails and dirt roads unobstructed by cars, free to ditch your map and go wherever the route takes you, while breathing in fresh air and listening to birdsong.

This is especially true at a place like Arcadia Management Area, where on any given day you’ll pass maybe a handful of other recreationists on the 30-plus miles of trails. This elbow room comes courtesy of both the park’s location—not on the heavily trafficked coast, but inland, less than 20 minutes from the Connecticut border—and its massive size. At some 14,000 acres, this is Rhode Island’s largest green space, and it’s all yours to explore.

Hop onto your bike and in moments you’ll be alone in a shaded forest, riding past ambling creeks and quiet fishing holes. A prime destination is gorgeous Breakheart Pond, the largest body of water at Arcadia, which you can circumnavigate; for a longer ride, try the 13-mile perimeter trail that loops the park.

Arcadia is not just the province of the two-wheeling types, however.

Anglers, boaters, hunters, hikers, and horseback riders are welcome here too—and there’s plenty of room for them all. riparks.com Sticking Around: If you like roughing it, get a permit for one of the handful of backcountry campsites, or book the shelter at Frosty Hollow Pond. Bonus for equestrian types: The LeGrande Reynolds Horsemen’s Area permits camping with your horse.

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Harkness Memorial State Park, Connecticut

person, then sit around the campfire for a good old-fashioned clambake. maine.gov/dacf/parks Sticking Around: Surrounded by water on three sides, the 100-plus campsites at Cobscook are some of the nicest in the state.

Going to Town: Head into Lubec to tour the former sardine canneries and then grab fresh-caught seafood at Frank’s Dockside Restaurant.

HARKNESS MEMORIAL STATE PARK WATERFORD, CT

In 1907, Edward and Mary Harkness moved into their 42-room Italianate mansion, Eolia, on the Connecticut shoreline. It was the crown jewel of a 230-acre property that also boasted a working farm with dairy cows and chickens, vegetable and flower gardens, a five-car garage—even a nine-hole golf course. When Mary Harkness died in 1950, she bequeathed it all to the state, noting in her will that the grounds be used “for the purpose of promoting good health.”

By all means, help fulfill Mary’s edict by strolling the paths through the gardens; in May, this is quite a treat, thanks to the profusion of perennials.

The great expanse of lawn slopes down to the shore, perfect for a walk amid sand and shells. If you’ve registered for a day license and brought your gear, you can head to the rocks to lure stripers and blues. Prefer picnicking to fishing? Find a spot on the manicured grounds, enjoy a peaceful meal, and dream of the Gilded Age. portal.ct.gov/ deep/state-parks

Sticking Around: Though there’s no camping at Harkness, just a 15-minute drive brings you to the Inn at Harbor Hill Marina in Niantic, overlooking the harbor.

Going to Town: Head to nearby Ocean Beach in New London to go for a dip, then make the requisite stop at Captain Scott’s Lobster Dock for lobster rolls alongside the Thames River.

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JERRY MONKMAN/ECOPHOTOGR APHY

Set atop soaring cliffs carved by pounding surf is Quoddy Head State Park’s best-known attraction: the 49-foot-tall candy-cane-striped West Quoddy Head Light, erected in 1858.

Perched on the easternmost point of the contiguous U.S., this lighthouse is the reason most people visit Quoddy Head State Park, to snap an Instaworthy photo and then go off on their merry way. Don’t make that mistake!

Across its 532 acres, Quoddy Head offers some of the best shoreline trails in the state. A favorite is the Coastal Trail, a four-mile round trip that leads through forest while still providing amazing ocean views. The crisp scent

of pines mingles with sea mist as you hike to such attractions as Gulliver’s Hole, High Ledge, and Green Point, which offers paths down to a beach.

Across the Quoddy Narrows, you can gaze at the rugged shoreline of New Brunswick’s Grand Manan Island.

Watch for fishermen returning from their mornings at sea, seals sunning on the rocks, and bald eagles overhead.

After exploring Quoddy Head, hop in the car for the second half of this “two-fer” recommendation.

Thirty minutes away lies Cobscook Bay State Park, which has a few short hikes of its own but is best known as an oceanside camping haven. Plus, given that the average tidal change here is 24 feet, clamming is a popular pastime in season: Dig one peck per

JULIE BIDWELL

QUODDY HEAD STATE PARK/ COBSCOOK BAY STATE PARK LUBEC/EDMUNDS, ME

acadia confidential

FINDING HIDDEN GEMS IN NEW ENGLAND’S BEST-KNOWN PARK. Jerry Monkman has spent more days photographing Maine’s Acadia National Park than nearly anywhere else on earth. Having published two books on Acadia, a place that attracts more than 3 million visitors a year, Monkman is well versed in not only its most famous attractions but also its lesser-known beauty spots. These are five of his favorites.

1 JERRY MONKMAN/ECOPHOTOGR APHY

JULIE BIDWELL

Sunrise at Deep Cove on Isle au Haut, part of Acadia National Park’s nearly 50,000-acre swath of prime Maine coast.

Dorr Point, Bar Harbor.

This is where I watch the sunrise when I’m in Bar Harbor and want to avoid the crowds (looking at you, Cadillac Mountain). Beautiful views of Frenchman Bay and the Porcupine Islands are accompanied by a soundtrack of the tide washing against cobblestones, the cries of gulls, the clamor of outgoing fishing boats. Adding to the ambience: the stone foundations of the cottage that was once home to preservationist George Dorr.

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I like to imagine him sitting on these same rocks and getting the inspiration to both lobby the federal government to create Acadia and to persuade Boston and New York elites to donate the land that would become the park.

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Deep Cove, Isle au Haut. Getting to Isle au Haut requires a six-mile boat ride from Stonington, which means I’ll rarely see more than a dozen people over the course of a day on the island’s park trails. About a 30-minute walk from the NPS campground in Duck Harbor, Deep Cove at low tide reveals undulating white granite ledges against the blue backdrop of the Atlantic.

This is a place of spectacular sunrises and, at night, great views of the Milky Way.

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Jordan Stream Trail, Seal Harbor. Though it’s famed for hiking

trails leading to bald granite peaks, when Mount Desert Island is cloaked in fog or drizzle I find its woodland paths to be a peaceful antidote to daily life. And my favorite of these is the Jordan Stream Trail, which starts just steps away from the throngs at Jordan Pond but quickly ducks into dark, quiet forests.

I’m also attracted by its evergreens juxtaposed with old hardwoods—I can lose an entire autumn afternoon wandering through the trees and photographing the fall hues lining Jordan Stream and its small cascades.

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East Side of the Schoodic Peninsula.

For me, the Schoodic Peninsula is where the “real” Down East Maine begins, with its small villages and picturesque working harbors.

And while it’s part of Acadia, the fact that it’s nearly an hourlong drive from Mount

Desert Island keeps many away. The shoreline along the Park Loop Road, east of the Alder Trail, offers several cobblestone coves that are just right for picnics and listening to the waves against the stones. Bring binoculars to keep watch for seals and seabirds.

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Little Hunters Beach, Park Loop Road.

Despite sitting just off the busy Park Loop Road, this place feels secluded thanks to its small, nondescript parking area. Wooden steps lead through evergreens next to a cascading stream, and down to the small cobblestone beach; stepping foot on it feels like entering a sanctuary.

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beach that has it all OGUNQUIT BEACH, MAINE

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enturies ago, the Abenaki people named this slice of land along Maine’s southern coast “Ogunquit,” meaning “beautiful place by the sea.” In the late 1800s, artists descended on what was by then a fishing village, and visitors have been coming ever since to this beautiful beach, which stretches over three miles north to meet the sands of Wells.

When the tide goes out and the beach widens, you feel as if you can walk forever, your feet dipping into, then out of, the sea. Sunbathers and kite flyers spread along the sand. When you want a different vista, you can take to the Marginal Way, a mile-long cliff path that lets you stroll above the pounding waves; its end point, in Perkins Cove, is still a fishing harbor where lobster shacks and ice cream stands and shingled shops await.

For families with young ones, just steps away from the main beach there’s a slender, sheltered beach on a tidal river where the water is calm, the sand dotted with little pools—all perfect for sand castle builders. When the tide goes out, kids ride their inner tubes to the Atlantic, then race back to do it again. There’s also parking at three separate beach spots, as well as a trolley that goes to and fro, picking up people from hotels and a downtown filled with shops and eateries right on the other side of a walking bridge.

I have a friend who says Ogunquit is “the one place that I can truly relax and drop my guard and just enjoy life—it is my happy place.” And when you’ve had enough of sun and sand and surf, there’s an open-sided shelter where you can sit back and watch the sun slowly fade, and make plans for the next day that awaits. —Mel Allen

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gear EDITORS’ PICKS FOR ANY ADVENTURE, FROM MILD TO WILD.

PHOTO CREDITS

Founded in 2010 by two Maine brothers in their father’s garage, Hyperlite Mountain Gear made its name by pulling off the near-impossible: creating durable, lightweight packs for both outdoorsobsessed ounce-shavers and recreational daytrippers. Today, Mike and Dan St. Pierre operate their company out of a renovated 1800s textile mill in Biddeford, where Hyperlite produces everything from tents to stuff sacks and, of course, the robust series of backpacks that have earned “best gear” cred from Outside. The secret sauce? Military-grade polyethylene fiber that’s 15 times stronger than steel (!) and unwavering commitment to a pack’s main purpose: to keep stuff dry, not weigh you down, and make you eager to hit the trail. hyperlitemountaingear.com

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ADAM DETOUR (O.W.L. BARS)

ULTRALIGHT BACKPACKS HYPERLITE MOUNTAIN GEAR (ME)

While Ragged makes all manner of gear and apparel, its comfy, versatile, and seemingly everlasting jackets are exactly what you want hanging by the door when New England weather comes calling. raggedmountain.com

FLY RODS | ORVIS (VT)

Inspired by the Green Mountain State’s legendary fishing streams and hand-built just down the road from the Manchester store where they’re sold, Orvis’s fly rods are Vermont through and through. orvis.com PORTABLE STOVES | JETBOIL (NH)

WOOL SOCKS | DARN TOUGH (VT)

We could go on and on about Darn Tough, but all you really need to know is they make the best socks in the world. Period. darntough.com

Two decades after Jetboil helped to revolutionize backcountry cooking, the company’s all-inone backpacking stoves continue to be the industry standard. jetboil.com

BUG SPRAY NANTUCKET SPIDER (MA) HIKING BOOTS | PETER LIMMER & SONS (NH)

There’s a reason hikers from as far away as Tanzania adore these custom hiking boots: Handcrafted from fine-grain leather with single-seam uppers, they’ve been made to the same exacting standard of excellence since 1950. limmercustomboot.com

ADAM DETOUR (O.W.L. BARS)

PHOTO CREDITS

JACKETS | RAGGED MOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT (NH)

What happens when a pair of working attorneys get fed up with insect bites?

They make their own bug repellents, of course: all-natural, highly effective, and good for people and pets alike. nantucketspider.com

ENERGY BARS | O.W.L. FOOD (VT)

Born out of company founder Allison Wright’s need for a snack to power through her 10-hour days as a ski guide, these tasty, no-bake energy bars are packed with ingredients—raw honey, raisins, organic chocolate— that you’ll actually recognize. owlenergybar.com

SURFBOARDS | HANLON LONGBOARDS (NH)

Yes, you can surf in New England.

And yes, there are locally made boards, including our pick: Dan Hanlon’s traditional, single-fin rides, designed to take on our piece of the Atlantic. hanlonlongboards.com

CANOES | OLD TOWN CANOE (ME)

White-water rafting? Family paddle trips? Old Town canoes do it all, buoyed by more than 120 years of craftsmanship. oldtowncanoe.com

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A HOLLYWOOD TRIBUTE TO BEING OUTDOORS IN NEW ENGLAND.

9 ILLUS T R AT ION BY JOHN S. DY K E S 10 1. Queen of the Sea (1918) Forget seal-spotting: Spectators lined Acadia National Park’s Ocean Drive to spy “mermaids” frolicking on the rocks for the filming of this lost-to-history silent film.

2. Carousel (1956) Yes, Boothbay Harbor is just the spot for a real nice clambake. And the fact that one of its wharves stood up to the pounding of Hollywood hoofers is testament to Yankee workmanship.

3. The Whales of August (1987) Whale watching has never been more poignant than in this tale of two elderly sisters, filmed on Cliff Island and starring the peerless Bette Davis and Lillian Gish.

4. The Good Son (1993) The ice-skating sequence on Jackson’s lovely Mirror Lake— ooh, that really gives us chills.

5. On Golden Pond (1981) Squam Lake gets its close-up, and a tremolo-voiced Katharine Hepburn gives a master class in loon calling.

6. The Trouble with Harry (1955) In this Alfred Hitchcock–directed dark comedy shot primarily in Craftsbury, a beautiful Vermont fall day lends itself to hunting, hiking, sketching en plein air, and burying the odd dead body.

7. Sweet Hearts Dance (1988) Don Johnson trades in his Miami Vice linen suits and bundles up for winter camping, skating, and tobogganing with Jeff Daniels in the landscape around Hyde Park.

8. The Four Seasons (1981) As a director, Alan Alda showed solid judgment in picking Stowe,

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VT, for his winter scenes.

(As a skier, though, he showed appalling form.)

9. Funny Farm (1988) This Chevy Chase comedy makes being outdoors in southeastern Vermont look terrific. Except for all those pesky lake snakes.

10. The Cider House Rules (1999) Novelist John Irving’s home state shows up for a scene paying homage to that classic summer pastime: the drive-in movie (shot at the Northfield in Hinsdale, NH).

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11. The Thomas Crown Affair (1968) He pilots a dune buggy at Crane Beach!

He rides a polo pony at Myopia Hunt Club! And while Steve McQueen didn’t actually fly that famous sailplane over Salem, NH, he looks darn good in that cockpit!

12. Little Women (2019) If you’re going to have your heart broken, it might as well be while strolling atop a glorious autumn hillside at Groton’s Gibbet Hill Farm.

13. The River Wild (1994) Meryl Streep having a morning row on the Charles River is three minutes of pure outdoor Zen. 14. The Lightkeepers (2009) Can’t make it to the Cape this

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summer? Take a virtual vacation with this seaside period film shot largely at Race Point Lighthouse.

15. One Crazy Summer (1986) You can practically smell the sunscreen in this Nantucket-set teen romp that revolves around beaches, boats, and summer romance.

16. Jaws (1975) Before that dorsal fin pops up, let’s face it: People are #lovingbeachlife on Martha’s Vineyard.

17. Sabrina (1995) From sailing to bicycling to picnicking on the beach, Harrison Ford shows how to use the Vineyard to pitch maximum woo.

18. Grown Ups (2010) New England native Adam Sandler, Chris Rock, and the rest of the gang make a splash at East Wareham’s iconic Water Wizz water park (which movie buffs will also recognize from 2013’s The Way, Way Back).

19. Wind (1992) Though many of the racing scenes were shot Down Under, this film’s boats look right at home swanning in and around Newport Harbor (where you can actually go cruise on retired America’s Cup yachts today).

20. The Great Gatsby (1974) Cast as Jay Gatsby’s Long Island abode, the opulent Newport mansion Rosecliff hosts what might just be the splashiest summer backyard bash ever.

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21. Moonrise Kingdom (2012) In this offbeat homage to summer camp, director Wes Anderson brings the eccentricity, and southern Rhode Island brings the scenic beauty.

state forest, Cockaponset, plays a starring role.

Diane Keaton and Michael Douglas as they give romance a whirl.

22. A Birder’s Guide to Everything (2013) As teen birding enthusiasts pursue a supposedly extinct duck, Connecticut’s second-largest

23. And So It Goes (2014) Generations of New Englanders will recognize Lake Compounce (here dubbed “Bristol Park”) as the amusement park visited by

24. Friday the 13, Part 2 (1981) Shot mainly on Kent’s North Spectacle Pond, this goofy, gory flick makes being outdoors look like a very, very bad idea.

On the other hand: marshmallow roast!

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TAKE ➽ it ➺ TSIDE ➥OU

SUMMER TRAVEL

Savor the Dates ANCHORS AWEIGH: Maine’s world-famous windjammers emerge from hibernation at the end of May, as the first cruises of the season get under way. (Tall-ship fans, mark your calendars and cross your fingers: Boothbay Harbor’s Windjammer Days is also slated to return this year, June 27–July 3.) sailmainecoast.com

JUNE

MAY FLIGHTS OF FANCY: Around the same time that this issue hits mailboxes, rubythroated hummingbirds will be flitting into New England to the delight of pandemicera birders everywhere.

So grab those binocs!

(But maybe finish reading the magazine first….) hummingbirdcentral.com RARE BIRDS: Boston’s Public Garden may be awash in tulips and cherry blossoms, but it won’t really feel like spring until the Swan Boats return for their 144th season, 86 |

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tentatively scheduled for May 8. swanboats.com PURPLE REIGN: Now is the brief season of the lilac bush, modest and enduring symbol of the depth and permanence of New England traditions. The opening lines of “Lilac Time,” the 1929 essay reprinted by Vermont’s Rutland Herald each May, remind us to seek out this blooming beauty— whether at Vermont’s Shelburne Farms, Boston’s Arnold Arboretum, Maine’s McLaughlin Garden, or in our own backyards.

VROOM SERVICE: Mud season, begone! May 23

marks the traditional opening day for ATV riding in New Hampshire, home of the Northeast’s largest trail system, Ride the Wilds. ridethewilds.nhgrand.com MAIN SQUEEZE: While Rhode Island’s signature summer treat, Del’s Frozen Lemonade, can be had year-round, expect the cravings to really kick in around May 29, the start of Memorial Day weekend, as seasonal Del’s carts and trucks pop up at beaches and parks. dels.com

BATTER UP! As of press time, the storied Cape Cod Baseball League was scheduled to return June 12.

We’re more than ready to see some of the best college players in the country take the field again, because rewatching Summer Catch this year just won’t cut it. capecodbaseball.org HORSE PLAY: The UVM Morgan Horse Farm in Weybridge, VT, trots out its newest crop of gangly youngsters mid-month for Foal Days. Even when converted to a drive-through event last year, the equine exuberance has never failed to delight. uvm.edu/cals/ morganhorsefarm CAST AWAY: If last year is any indication, anglers in southern New England can expect to start seeing the heavyweights of the striper migration (30-plus pounds) coming into their waters by

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PHOTO CREDITS

Maine windjammers embark on a new sailing season beginning in May.

S U S A N P O R T N O Y ( W I N D J A M M E R S ) ; L O R I P E D R I C K ( D E L’ S L E M O N A D E ) ; C G L A D E / I S T O C K ( H U M M I N G B I R D ) ; J U L I A _ S U D N I T S K A Y A / I S T O C K ( L U P I N E ) ; PAU L D I O N N E / I S TO C K (S A N D S C U L P T U R E ) ; E L E M E N TA L I M AG I N G/ I S TO C K ( B A L LO O N ) ; T H E S O M E G I R L / I S TO C K (OY S T E R S) ; K I R K I K I S/ I S TO C K ( B A SE B A L L)

A YANKEE SAMPLER OF WHAT’S HAPPENING OUTDOORS THIS SEASON.

FULL FLOWER: From Down East to the White Mountains, mid-to-late June belongs to another New Englandy bloom: the lupine, which—as the Maine children’s classic Miss Rumphius will tell you— truly does make the world more beautiful.

mid-June, as the fish head north up the coast.

BEACHY KEEN: When New Hampshire’s annual Hampton Beach Master Sand Sculpting Classic returns June 17–19, mythical creatures and other artistic fever dreams will once again rise beside the summer sea. Ah yes, this is what normal life looks like. hamptonbeach.org RIDE ON TIME: On June 18, Burlington, VT’s quirky seasonal bike ferry hits high gear as it switches from weekends-only to seven-days-a-week service for cyclists on their way to the Champlain Islands. localmotion.org/bike_ferry

PHOTO CREDITS

S U S A N P O R T N O Y ( W I N D J A M M E R S ) ; L O R I P E D R I C K ( D E L’ S L E M O N A D E ) ; C G L A D E / I S T O C K ( H U M M I N G B I R D ) ; J U L I A _ S U D N I T S K A Y A / I S T O C K ( L U P I N E ) ; PAU L D I O N N E / I S TO C K (S A N D S C U L P T U R E ) ; E L E M E N TA L I M AG I N G/ I S TO C K ( B A L LO O N ) ; T H E S O M E G I R L / I S TO C K (OY S T E R S) ; K I R K I K I S/ I S TO C K ( B A SE B A L L)

Artistry comes ashore in June for the Hampton Beach, NH, Master Sand Sculpting Classic.

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JULY SKY’S THE LIMIT: At the time of this writing, the Newport, RI, Kite Festival was still paying out string on plans for 2021. Still, there’s no better time than July to check out the regular high-flying action at the festival’s home base: breezy, beautiful Brenton Point State Park. facebook.com /newportkitefestival SPEED DATE: One of New England’s few major summer events that stayed on track last year was the NASCAR Cup Series, which returns July 18 to the New Hampshire Motor Speedway for the Foxwoods Resort Casino 301. Let the thunder roll! nhms.com

CURRENT AFFAIR: Hartford, CT, had its hottest day of 2020 when it hit 99 degrees on July 19—exactly the kind of day that tubing down the Farmington River was made for. Most folks try this Nutmeg State summer pastime with the help of Farmington River Tubing; keep an eye on their website for reopening info, or take the plunge and plan a DIY trip with pals. farmingtonrivertubing.com; frwa.org/river-info

AUGUST PRIME PICK: There are blueberries and then there are Maine wild blueberries: petite, hardy, and practically popping with juicy flavor.

Want to get in on the bounty?

Early August is the time to head into u-pick fields, while Machias, ME, traditionally hosts a weekend celebration toward the end of the month. machiasblueberry.com SHOWER POWER: If the usual summer fireworks displays aren’t yet back in full

The boys of summer are set to return for Cape Cod Baseball League action starting in June.

force, the Perseids meteor shower—which at its peak can light up the sky with 60 to 90 shooting stars an hour— still gives us all a reason to look heavenward in awe.

Expect primetime viewing Aug. 11–12.

HIT THE HEIGHTS: Let the spectacle of dozens of brilliantly colored hot-air balloons lift your spirits at Maine’s Great Falls Balloon Festival, slated to return Aug. 20–22. greatfallsballoonfestival.org SHELLS A-POPPIN’: Of the nearly 2 billion oysters consumed worldwide each year, odds are some of the tastiest can be found at the Milford, CT, Oyster Festival, set for Aug. 21. With 40,000 or so bivalves across 20-plus varieties, it’s a surefire summer seafood fix. milfordoysterfestival.com

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G O I N G W

As part of their trek on the Cross New Hampshire Adventure Trail, author Ian Aldrich and his biking companions ride west on the Presidential Rail Trail, an 18-mile route spanning the base of the northern Presidential Mountains.

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G W I D E

Biking border-to-border across New Hampshire lets a native son see his state with fresh eyes.

BY IAN ALDRICH | PHOTOS BY COREY HENDRICKSON

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W

e were about an hour into the ride, meandering along a quiet country road that traced the run of the Androscoggin River in Shelburne, New Hampshire, when the rain hit. Not a sprinkle, mind you, or even a shower, but an honest-to-God, sky-cracking-open downpour. It had closed in on us fast. One minute we were snapping photos on an old steel bridge that crossed high above the water, the next we were racing toward shelter.

Any kind of shelter.

We found it at the top of a small rise, where the road bisected an old farm and a landscape that rose and gently dropped away. Under the eaves of a big red barn, my three friends and I watched the storm blow in and then just stay put. Winds swirled, rains pounded down, hail pelted the land. I looked at the others and then back out at the scene—just in time to see a birch limb shear off and crash to the ground. It seemed like an auspicious start to a three-day bikepacking trip across the northern half of the White Mountains.

But looking back on it now, I can’t think of a more perfect beginning.

THE R AIN EVENTUALLY DID LET UP, the skies soft-

ened, and soon we were back on our bikes, climbing and coasting our way to our evening destination, Moose Brook State Park in Gorham. But we took our sweet time getting

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there because, well, we could. The only programmed part of the journey was the route. The Cross New Hampshire Adventure Trail (xNHAT) is an 83-mile trek that cuts alongside rivers, drops into small towns, and spans a mix of country lanes, some busy streets and choppy logging routes, and several miles of converted rail trails.

If you have it in you, you can do the whole thing in a day.

But why? Over the course of our ride, we made time for riverside breaks, explored the grounds of an old bottle factory, and relaxed with cold beers in a set of comfortable rockers at a campground outside Whitefield. We rode in the shadow of the Presidentials, cruised the dirt roads around retired farmland, and pedaled the outskirts of maybe the smallest airport I’ve ever seen. In the middle of a forgotten field, we found a plaque that commemorated the birthplace of an early-19th-century major general. In Bath we met a guy who had built a house out of a wooden train caboose.

I’ve lived in New Hampshire a good chunk of my life, and I don’t think I’ve seen the breadth of my home state in one trip as I did during those three days on my bike.

It was, in other words, just the kind of experience Marianne Borowski had in mind when she designed the xNHAT three years ago. Borowski, who is 65 and a retired chemist, is most happy when she’s on her bike or talking about cycling, which is often. She’s ridden across the country; locally, she organizes a weekly community ride in her hometown of Glen and can frequently be spotted pedaling around on a green steel-frame gravel bike that her partner, NEWENGLAND.COM

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opposite: Biking along the Ammonoosuc River, which accompanies

cyclists on the western half of the xNHAT to the New Hampshire–Vermont border. this page, clockwise from top left: Adding a classic bit of New England architecture to the ride is the c. 1842 Lisbon-Landaff Federated Church on Main Street in Lisbon; passing over Route 16 north of Gorham, in the Mount Washington Valley; taking shelter from the rain at a farm in Shelburne; a river view of Lisbon, one of nearly a dozen New Hampshire towns spanned by the xNHAT’s 83-mile route; an old Boston & Maine rail bridge that carries riders over the Ammonoosuc near Bath.

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Tom Matchak, hand-built for her. She’s a firm believer in the transformative powers of two-wheel travel. A statement like “When you’re on a bike you experience what’s around you in a different way” is something you might hear her say.

The idea for the xNHAT blossomed after Borowski had ridden the Cross Vermont Trail, a 90-mile trek from Burlington to Wells River that largely kept her on off-road terrain and introduced her to a few small towns she’d never visited before. When it was over, she was ready to circle back and do it again.

“It’s really a depressing thing to see a ‘Trail Ends’ sign,” she says. “And when I talked to the people who put together the Vermont trail, they felt the same way. It got me thinking: Why couldn’t I pick up where they left off and make something that extends it through New Hampshire?”

In short order, the xNHAT became more than just an idea. Armed with a pencil and a bunch of maps, Borowski stitched together a patchwork of different roads and former railbeds. She built a robust website, secured a grant to produce and mail out free route maps, and designed trail patches to distribute to riders who completed the entire journey.

From Woodsville, where the Vermont trail ends, the xNHAT runs on public lands that span 11 New Hampshire towns before winding up in Bethel, Maine, just over the border. It doesn’t pack a lot of elevation gain, but the ride can be challenging, especially in the woodsy areas.

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clockwise from left : A pair of trusty steeds getting a rest; refueling on beer and pizza at Littleton’s Schilling Beer Company after a long day’s ride; the team settles in for the night at the Crazy Horse Campground, near the 3,500-acre Moore Reservoir in western New Hampshire. opposite, bottom: The author charges up one of the xNHAT’s paved stretches, in the town of Littleton. opposite, top: Having already covered nearly 70 miles of the xNHAT, the biking group takes a breather before pushing on toward the trail’s final stop in Woodsville, on the Vermont border.

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MIRNA VALERIO

BLAZING A TRAIL FOR ALL TO FOLLOW INTERVIEW BY IAN ALDRICH

In her 2017 memoir, A Beautiful Work in Progress, Mirna Valerio circles back in varying degrees to two important questions: Why not celebrate your body?

And why not be proud of the fact that the one you are in can do great things?

A 2008 health scare put Valerio on a path toward discovering her own potential. She was working overtime as an educator and a mother when a severe panic attack forced her to confront how she’d allowed her well-being to spiral downward. Her doctor asked her: “Do you want to see your son grow up?”

So Valerio started running. A little. Then a little more. A few months in, she completed her first 5K. Bigger races followed. In the fall of 2011 she ran her first marathon. Two years later, she completed her first 50K. To date, she’s finished 11 marathons and 14 ultras, which have included some of the most grueling trail races in the country.

I L L US T R AT I O N B Y C H R I S T I A N B L A Z A

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Ian Aldrich: What’s your earliest memory of being in the outdoors and in the woods?

Mirna Valerio: I went to sleep-away camp when I was 8, the summer before third grade. My stepfather’s union had this program where kids from the five New York City boroughs could go to the Catskills. Going to this camp, it’s the single biggest reason I do what I do now.

I.A.: Wow. What was its impact?

M.V.: There was all this buildup,

buying all this outdoor stuff—we didn’t know what we were doing. We bought Timberland boots, the early versions, and jeans, and we bought a sleeping bag that was all cotton, of course. Nothing was high-tech. I got on the bus and we sang songs on the way there, you know, the way they do to invite you into the outdoor cult.

[Laughs.] And then that first night I went on this stream hike. It was terrifying but cool, just being in the 96 |

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dark. We stopped in this huge culvert, and I remember how scary and noisy it felt—the water running, the echoes of our breathing, the crickets outside.

Then the counselors gave us Wint-OGreen Lifesavers, and there we were: in this big pipe with sparkling green lights coming out of our mouths.

We were all strangers to one another, from different schools and different kinds of families. But we were all kind of nervous, I think, and that brought us together. It was the first time, outside of being with my family, that I felt socially OK. I.A.: So you’re building up confidence

in yourself too.

M.V.: Exactly. I loved the water, but

at camp I only liked hanging out in the lake where it was three feet deep. There was a little dock, and on the other side it was six feet, and I’d always say, “I’m glad I don’t have to go over there ’cause that’s scary.” Well, one of the swimming instructors

heard me and said, “Guess what you’re doing today?” I freaked out. But she said, “You know what to do. You’re just going to do what you do here, over there. Don’t touch the ground, and let yourself float.” I was scared but I was fine.

I think about that all the time, when I know there’s another level I can achieve and I think to myself, I’m glad I don’t have to do that. [Laughs.]

Well, here’s your lucky day. I just make myself do it.

I.A.: You’ve run in a lot of grueling

races. How do they force you to reckon with yourself?

M.V.: It’s such a mental game. I know that physically I can do it, or that I can at least try. And part of my mental game is dealing with all the internal pressure and the external pressure to beat the cutoff because I’m slow. So, it’s about not being attached to the outcome even though it is important to me to finish what I’ve started. It’s a lot of internal work to be Zen about whatever happens.

I.A.: It’s like a long meditation.

M.V.: An hours-long meditation!

I.A.: How does that translate into your

broader life?

M.V.: Right now, during Covid,

there’s so much uncertainty. It’s unprecedented. It’s a long slog. It can be the same with a long race. You’ll NEWENGLAND.COM

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COURTESY OF MIRNA VALERIO

“I just want to see what my body can do,” says Valerio, now 45.

“I want to know what the limits are.”

But this Brooklyn, New York, native is also pushing against other limits. Her message and her accomplishments are a rebuke to an outdoor culture that is mostly white and obsessed with body types that don’t look like hers. A decade ago, Valerio started a blog called Fat Girl Running, which broke hard from topics for a diet-obsessed crowd with posts such as “Calling BS on BMI” and “How to Be a Fat Runner in 10 Simple Steps.”

Since then, Valerio—aka the Mirnavator—has built a national profile that amazes even her. In 2017, she landed on the cover of Women’s Running. In 2018, National Geographic named her one of its Adventurers of the Year; that same year, actor Will Smith hired her to train him for a half marathon.

At the beginning of 2019, she moved with her teenage son, Rashid, to Montpelier, Vermont, so she could have a “beautiful place” to train as she embarked on a full-time career as a sponsored athlete for brands such as Lululemon, L.L. Bean, and Merrell, among others.

Today, her Instagram following is well into six figures.

We met for breakfast last fall in downtown Montpelier, and during our time together she laughed freely and often at the improbability of her journey. This interview has been edited for length and clarity.

be in the middle of an ultra or even a 10-miler, and you just feel like it’s never going to end. At some point it will, but not now. And you just have to keep going, doing the things you know you have to do. You need to keep moving forward. You need to keep eating and drinking. You need to keep yourself busy. You have to find a way to keep yourself engaged, because the minute you lose focus, the minute you aren’t engaged, something bad happens. You trip. You fall. You may get hurt. I can’t help but bring that to the rest of my life in order to get through the times we’ve been having.

“There’s this constant messaging that we’re too fat, we’re too skinny, we’re too Black. Those are just words from people dealing with their own limited experiences.”

I.A.: Do these big races also help you

explore something about yourself?

M.V.: I want to know how long I can

go. How long I can keep moving. I just want to see what my body can do. Even I have preconceived notions about what my body can do. I want to know what the limits are.

When I signed up for my first and only 100K, it had been a thought floating around in my mind: Can I do this? Nah. But I’d done a bunch of 50Ks, and it was the next thing. That’s how I got into marathoning: I can’t do that. But I know I can. Then a friend comes along and asks, “Do you want to do a marathon with me?” Now it’s a 100-mile race. I know I have to do one. I gotta see. I’m curious. Maybe I won’t be able to finish my first, but I’ll learn something from that. I’ll learn how to train and I’ll try it again.

COURTESY OF MIRNA VALERIO

I.A.: Let’s talk about your move to

Vermont. Was there any commentary from friends or family about that decision?

M.V.: Yes. Why are you moving there?

You know it’s like the third-whitest state in the country, right? I’m like, I know, but I need to train. And I’ll tell you, I felt at home right away. The first night I drove down Main Street in Montpelier, I saw a Black Lives Matter sign and a Pride flag. Having lived in north Georgia for the previous MAY | JUNE 2021

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M.V.: Depends on who the family and

friends are. [Laughs.]

I.A.: Or just for yourself, then.

M.V.: I love to go to Mount Hunger

here in Montpelier. It was the first mountain I did in Vermont. It’s not the prettiest. It doesn’t have the best views. It’s really difficult. But there’s something about it that keeps pulling me back. My friend who lives in Barre and is the reason I decided to move to Vermont brought me up there in December 2018. It was my first time in Vermont and the first time I’d been on snowshoes. We went up the mountain and it was the most spectacular experience. There was maybe one or two other hikers up there. It was all snowy white and I’m thinking, This is a Robert Frost scene right now. It was just so still and quiet.

At one point we went across a stream that was all iced over. You couldn’t see the water, but you could hear it. I just felt like, This is where I need to be.

I.A.: You’ve become such a strong voice

Valerio and her son, Rashid, at a Black Lives Matter demonstration in their hometown of Montpelier, Vermont, last summer.

five years, where it’s beautiful but very conservative, I wanted to live in an area that was more progressive.

Even now, every time I drive into Montpelier, I have this feeling of I really like this place. And my son likes it. He feels safe. He feels very empowered to just go out and do whatever he needs to do for himself. I like that, and I don’t think we could feel like that in Georgia or even really in New York.

I.A.: Do you have a go-to spot in

the state where you take family and friends when you want to introduce them to Vermont?

in the body positivity movement. Why do you think your story and who you are have resonated with people the way they have?

M.V.: I think there are a couple of reasons. I think that people have these ideas of what this [motions to herself] can do.

I.A.: Being a Black woman?

M.V.: The bigness and being a Black

woman too. But I’ve always come up against that in every aspect of my life.

People look at me as a Black girl— What’s she doing in the gifted class? I hear it and I see it. But I continue to do the work because only I know what I can do. You don’t know me.

You don’t know anything about me.

You’re making these assumptions about who I am. It’s been like this since elementary school. I think a lot of people would be hampered by (Continued on p. 148) | 97

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2021 SUMMER TR AVEL GUIDE

BEST OF

NEW ENGLAND Outdoors Edition MASSACHUSETTS

99

NEW HAMPSHIRE

110

VERMONT

126

CONNECTICUT

132

RHODE ISLAND

134

MAINE

137

BEST MASSACHUSETTS HOTEL ON THE BEACH Chatham Bars Inn, Chatham (listing on p. 106)

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CHRISTOPHER CHURCHILL

FROM PATIO DINING AND FARM STANDS TO WILDERNESS LODGES AND SEASIDE RETREATS, OUR EDITORS’ PICKS FOR WHERE TO EAT, STAY, AND PLAY ARE ALL ABOUT FRESH-AIR ESCAPES.

NEWENGLAND.COM

3/19/21 10:47 AM

MASSACHUSETTS ATTRACTIONS DOG EXCURSION STODDER’S NECK STATE PARK, HINGHAM

Is it a state park, or is it a dog park without the designation? Happily, it’s both. Dog owners up and down the South Shore know this 23-acre park as the place to bring their pets for social play. The “neck” is a peninsula at the mouth of the Back River, which means the land is bounded by water on three sides; the fourth side is guarded by a sturdy stone wall. Expect to find a mix of off-leash and leashed dogs here, many of which come to play practically every day. The landscape varies from grasslands and woods and hills, while the water offers ample opportunity for cooling off. mass.gov

crowd. You’ll not only enjoy a deftly curated collection of f irst-run and vintage movies but also primo concessions (triple cheeseburgers, mac ’n’ cheese bites, hot fudge sundaes) and access to a beer garden serving wine, sangria, and draft brews (past offerings have included local favorites Wormtown Brewery and High Limb Cider). Next to the beer garden’s 5,000-square-foot patio are f ire pits where you can toast s’mores while keeping an eye on the big-screen action. mendondrivein.com FARM ANIMAL FUN ISLAND ALPACA COMPANY, OAK BLUFFS

White, beige, fawn, brown, rose gray, silver TRAVEL NOTE Before setting out to visit any of our Best of New England winners, please contact them or check online for updates on hours and operations this summer.

DRIVE-IN THEATER MENDON TWIN DRIVE-IN, MENDON

In the world of drive-in theaters, the c. 1954 Mendon Twin definitely runs with the cool

gray: The 50-plus Huacaya alpacas at this Martha’s Vineyard farm come in every color of the camelid rainbow. Bred to be prize winners and socialized to be gentle and friendly toward paddock visitors including kids, who are enchanted by alpacas’ soulful eyes and soft muzzles, these f iber-producing animals also keep the shop supplied with premium-quality yarns, textiles, and gifts. islandalpaca.com NATURE OUTING WALDEN POND STATE RESERVATION, CONCORD

An early proponent of social distancing, Henry David Thoreau lived alone in the woods for two years, two months, and two days, a mile from any neighbor in his rustic abode built near the shores of Walden Pond in Concord. While only a replica of the hut exists today, Walden Pond’s 200-plus acres of woodland make for a wonderful ramble, especially in the early morning hours, with the promise of a dip in the pond’s refreshing

Everybody Has a History

find yours here &

Plymouth Rock Sunset cruises Historic homes

See Plymouth National Monument to the Forefathers, Plymouth Photo: Ted Curtin

The Mayflower Story Wine, seafood Quaint shops

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Town of PLYMOUTH

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waters afterward. Note that the parking lot tends to fill up quickly on hot summer days. mass.gov

the past few years, the sylvan setting remains timeless even as the golf carts now boast GPS. crumpinfox.com

OUTDOOR FLEA MARKET TODD FARM FLEA MARKET, ROWLEY

PYO FRUIT FARM PARLEE FARMS, TYNGSBORO

For nearly half a century, this seasonal North Shore attraction has been catering to treasure hunters in pursuit of antiques, collectibles, and original work by local artists and artisans. On any Sunday morning from April to November, bring some cash—you’ll save with free parking—and get busy browsing among the 200-plus vendors. The perfect piece to complete a collection, brighten up your decor, or spark a DIY project is just one discovery away. toddfarm.com

You’ll taste the difference but won’t necessarily see the science-guided, labor-intensive practices that the Parlee family employ on their 93 fruit-and-f lower-planted acres. Go in June to pick strawberries and savor oldfashioned shortcake; time a July visit right, and you can pick both blueberries and fragile sweet cherries, which are easily collected from dwarf trees. Multitasking’s possible in late August, too, if peaches hold on while the earliest apples redden. parleefarms.com

OUTDOOR MUSEUM OLD STURBRIDGE VILLAGE, STURBRIDGE

New England’s largest outdoor living history museum makes the past anything but musty.

If you haven’t visited since your schoolkid days (or ever), this 75th-anniversary year is a great time to experience the seasonal rituals of this 1830s farm and village. Engage with costumed historians, observe the care of heritage animal breeds, or perhaps even take a historical craft class and do your part to carry the past forward. osv.org

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Old Sturbridge Village, Sturbridge PUBLIC GOLF COURSE CRUMPIN-FOX CLUB, BERNARDSTON

Located just off I-91 in a small, rural Pioneer Valley town, Crumpin-Fox (named for a local 19th-century soda company) is not only one of Massachusetts’s most challenging courses but also one of its loveliest, thanks to its mix of woodlands and open rolling terrain. And after more than $1 million in renovations in

ZIPLINE CATAMOUNT ZIP TOUR, SOUTH EGREMONT

If you dangled in midair above the majestic Berkshires for only a moment, you’d be dazzled. Imagine the exhilaration of Catamount Mountain Resort’s two-hour zip trek, which begins with a summit chair-lift ride, warms you up with a 1,000-foot zoom along the Ridge Span, then sends you on the longest point-to-point zipline in the country: the 5,523-foot Catamonster. Views stretch forever (or at least to the Catskills). catamountski.com

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DINING CITY PATIO DINING OLEANA, CAMBRIDGE

The patio seats at Oleana are so prized that you can’t specifically reserve them. You just have to cross your fingers. That’s because Ana Sortun’s team has created a verdant oasis near the tech epicenter of Kendall Square. Sheltered beneath umbrellas and basking in the glow of twinkle lights, you can tuck into Eastern Mediterranean favorites like tamarind beef and spinach falafel, and enjoy the signature baked Alaska for dessert. oleanarestaurant.com CRAFT BREWERY EXHIBIT A, FRAMINGHAM

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There’s no doubt Trillium and Treehouse deserve the accolades for all the awardwinning IPAs they produce in the Bay State, but we’ve got our eye on this small brewery in the industrial backlots of Framingham, a stone’s throw from the far bigger Jack’s Abby brewery. Local beer lovers have been snatching up such Exhibit A standouts as the Cat’s Meow, the lighter Just a Kitten, and the Kölsch-style Goody Two Shoes. Also be on the lookout for Wandering Thoughts, full of ripe citrus f lavors. exhibit-a-brewing.com FARM STAND VERRILL FARM, CONCORD

If Verril l Farm’s name sounds familiar, it could be because you’ve seen it on a local menu. In operation since 1918, the farm supplies plenty of restaurant kitchens, but at the farm stand you can score the same ingredients for yourself, ranging from strawberries to squash to 30-plus varieties of heirloom tomatoes. Don’t feel like cooking? Verrill also has take-home meals and prepared foods, sandwiches, and a bakery that stocks the stand with homemade pastries and other sweet treats. verrillfarm.com ICE CREAM STAND RICHARDSON’S ICE CREAM, MIDDLETON

To see a family farm at its best, stop at Richardson’s, where a family member has milked cows every day since 1695. To taste ice cream at its best, order a cone from the farm’s icecream stand. Richardson’s has been making super-premium ice cream (16 percent butterfat) for nearly 70 years, focusing on perfecting classics like vanilla and chocolate while expanding the flavor offerings to include grapenut custard, frozen pudding, peanut butter Oreo—more than 50 kinds in all. Bonus: After getting your licks in, you can check out the adjoining mini-golf courses, driving range, and batting cages. richardsonsicecream.com 102 |

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LOBSTER SHACK THE LOBSTER POOL, ROCKPORT

The Lobster Pool, Rockport

Located in the northwest corner of Rockport, the Lobster Pool has the rare luck to face Ipswich Bay at just the right angle so you can watch the sun set over the water, with Plum Island in the distance. The nightly show is best enjoyed from a picnic table on the back lawn, accompanied by a steamed lobster dinner or lobster roll (the fried fish sandwich is also a winner). Don’t forget to BYOB—they’re happy to provide the ice. thelobsterpool.com

SEASIDE DINING WATER STREET KITCHEN, WOODS HOLE

Woods Hole is known as a place for departures and arrivals, the gateway to Martha’s Vineyard.

But the food at Water Street Kitchen makes you want to linger awhile, spreading smoked bluefish pâté on crostini, dipping into a generous bowl of cioppino, or just watching the sunset with a cocktail in hand. Window seats are lovely, but sit at the bar for the best local gossip. waterstreetkitchen.com

MOUNTAIN-VIEW DINING BASCOM LODGE, ADAMS

WINERY WESTPORT RIVERS WINERY, WESTPORT

RIVER-VIEW DINING THE ALVAH STONE, MONTAGUE

After browsing the broad selection of titles at the upstairs Montague Bookmill, it’s a treat to grab a table on the Alvah Stone’s patio, where you can sip a cocktail and watch the Sawmill River rush by. Bountiful salads with local ingredients and the restaurant’s famous corn-

With 80 acres under cultivation, Westport Rivers is among the largest vineyards in New England, and one of the oldest, too. The winery’s portfolio of crisp white wines—both sparkling and still—are rooted in its particular deftness with Chardonnay and Riesling grapes. They’re also the ideal accompaniment to local seafood. You can tour and taste every Saturday, or plan a visit around the annual sunset music nights (Fridays, beginning in mid-June) or hayrides (Saturdays in the fall). westportrivers.com

ADAM DETOUR

This Arts and Crafts–style lodge sits at the summit of the state’s highest mountain, putting guests in the catbird seat for Berkshire sunsets. Open from late May until mid-October, the lodge offers both lodging and dining. The “food with altitude” features ingredients sourced from an extensive network of local growers and producers. Lunches are casual sandwiches and salads, but the evening offerings are more sophisticated than you’ll f ind at any other mountaintop lodge. And don’t miss the excellent breakfasts, or the on-site bakery. bascomlodge.net

bread with maple-bacon butter are just a few standouts from a menu that lures locals and tourists to this special spot. thealvahstone.com

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ADAM DETOUR

Escape to Southeastern Massachusetts...

Just like you, we miss our old friends, & love making new ones. We can’t wait to see you!

Greater Attleboro | Greater Fall River | Greater New Bedford | Greater Taunton | Tri-Town Soon we’ll be together again. Come and relax on the south coast of Massachusetts.

Enjoy a day on one of our many beautiful sandy beaches basking in the sun.

Visit historic sights and experience a cultural festival for which we’re known.

You can take a flight or ferry to the islands for the day, followed by a romantic dinner & show.

With so many memories about to be created, we’ll save you a seat.

It’s all so close to Boston, and so far from the crowds. We have a place waiting for you by the ocean. photo “Viva Portugal” festival in historic downtown New Bedford • image by badmonkeypics@outlook.com

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Experience an American Icon

HOTEL ON THE BEACH CHATHAM BARS INN, CHATHAM

LODGING COASTAL CAMPGROUND NICKERSON STATE PARK, BREWSTER

Embark on an unforgettable tour of The House of the Seven Gables.

Smack-dab in the middle of Cape Cod, the 418 well-spaced camping sites at Nickerson State Park are in extremely high demand during the summer. If you’re one of the fortunate few to snag one, have fun swimming in one of the kettle ponds, exploring the hiking and biking trails that snake through the woods of pine and oak, and heading out on the 25-mile-long Cape Cod Rail Trail that skirts the park. mass.gov

HOTEL PORCH RED LION INN, STOCKBRIDGE

DISCOVER and climb the famed

FARM STAY STARLIGHT LLAMA BED & BREAKFAST, NORTHAMPTON

Relax in the period seaside

Take your picnic breakfast, and choose your grazing spot. There are so many idyllic options on this conserved 120-acre plot enfolded by mountains, including a replica of Thoreau’s Walden cabin. The farm’s lineage reaches back six generations; the solarpowered, three-guestroom B&B is a glimpse of green energy’s future. You can feed the small llama herd, weed gardens, help with haying, or spend days hiking and biking and nights dark-sky gazing. starlightllama.com

secret staircase. gardens.

Be inspired as visitors, authors, and artists have been for centuries.

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As a guest of Cape Cod ’s most exclusive and complete resort, which first opened its doors in 1914, you’ll have the power to command your own little beach realm. Cabanas on the property’s quarter-mile private beach jut up like sand castles, and once you’re sequestered inside or supine on a lounger in the sun, you’ll have food and beverage service at your beck and call. North Beach Island, just offshore, protects your seawater bath from the wildness of the open ocean. chathambarsinn.com

There isn’t always a pop-up performance or drink special on the front porch at this landmark hotel, which traces its origins to 1773, yet competition for rocking chairs is always f ierce. Overlooking one of the Berkshires’ most vibrant crossroads, it’s a threshold that’s been crossed by countless luminaries. A few taps on your smartphone, and you won’t have to imagine Norman Rockwell painting this scene or James Taylor’s voice emanating from the landing. redlioninn.com

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ISLAND INN THE WAUWINET, NANTUCKET

When National Geographic named Nantucket one of the 10 best islands in the world, few New Englanders were surprised. With its cobblestoned streets, deeply rooted maritime history, scenic lighthouses, and beautiful landscape, all framed by the Atlantic, the island has been a travel magnet for generations. And so has the Wauwinet, which has welcomed guests to its location at the edge of a wildlife sanctuary since the 1870s.

Today a Relais & Châteaux property with 32 boutique guest rooms, four cottages, and a three-bedroom house rental, it boasts an understated elegance—along with a restaurant, Topper’s, that is touted as being just as unforgettable as its setting. wauwinet.com LAKESIDE CAMPGROUND TULLY LAKE CAMPGROUND, ROYALSTON

Run by the Trustees of Reservations, this tents-only campground on the shores of a serene central-Massachusetts lake sells out quickly each summer. Many campers bring their own kayaks to paddle to the sandy isles found on Tully Lake. Hiking trails lead to scenic Doane’s Falls, where Lawrence Brook tumbles over a series of ledges before it reaches the lake. thetrustees.org

RV PARK NORMANDY FARMS FAMILY CAMPING RESORT, FOXBORO

When was the last time your RV stay came with concierge service? Sauna and Jacuzzi?

Day kennels and dog-walking services? The offerings at the national-award-winning Normandy Farms—which indeed was built on farmland dating back to the mid-1700s— are as expansive as its 100-plus acres. Choose from nearly 400 sites, which range from basic to premium (water, septic, cable, highamperage electric) and including a handful of cabins, yurts, pop-up trailers, and safari tents for the non-RV crowd. normandyfarms.com WILDERNESS LODGE WIGWAM WESTERN SUMMIT, NORTH ADAMS

America’s Switzerland is yodeling its siren song again now that a long-abandoned Mohawk Trail landmark has visionary new owners. Wake up to rolling mountains and 800-plus acres of trail-laced forest when you stay in one of four comfy cabins or two main house units that share Florida Mountain’s summit with the renovated Wigwam gift shop, now a window-walled, lodgevibe café famed for its cold-brew coffee and more than 20 homemade fudge f lavors. wigwamwesternsummit.com

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BEST OF NEW ENGL AND

NEW HAMPSHIRE ATTRACTIONS DOG EXCURSION URBAN FORESTRY CENTER, PORTSMOUTH

On the outskirts of a historic port city full of delights and surprises, maybe the most surprising of all is this 182-acre wilderness preserve, lush with forest and fields alongside a salt marsh, where leashed dogs can lope beside their owners on the walking trails. The land was once an 18th-century farm owned by Governor John Langdon of Revolutionary War fame, and you and Fido can explore historical markers as you amble through some of the prettiest land in southern New Hampshire. nh.gov/nhdfl DRIVE-IN THEATER MILFORD DRIVE-IN, MILFORD

The concessions alone will whet your appetite for a trip to this c. 1958 go-to: fried dough and cotton candy, hamburgers and hot dogs, and frappes in a dozen f lavors. Once you’ve got an armload of treats, settle in for new-release double features on two big screens. Admission is $30 per carload for up to six people, so don’t forget to bring your friends. Also boosting the Milford Drive-In’s appeal are specialevent screenings of non-Hollywood fare, such as concerts by Garth Brooks and Blake Shelton. milforddrivein.com FARM ANIMAL FUN THE FRIENDLY FARM, DUBLIN

This cheery barnyard becomes something of an overly friendly farm when you have a bag of feed in hand, and giggling kids adore attracting throngs of bleating and baa-ing pals. It’s a tonic for the soul to free-range across green grassland, to picnic, and to pat bunnies and cradle chicks in your hands. There’s subtle learning in every animal interaction and sheer joy in being farmer for a day without having to clean the pigpen. friendlyfarm.com

TRAVEL NOTE Before setting out to visit any of our Best of New England winners, please contact them or check online for updates on hours and operations this summer.

cliff-top views that range across the refuge and Umbagog area. fws.gov OUTDOOR FLEA MARKET HOLLIS FLEA MARKET, HOLLIS

By 8 a.m. on a summer Sunday, the action has already heated up at this southern New Hampshire staple, which can draw more than a thousand visitors a day. Founded in 1964 and run continuously ever since, the Hollis Flea Market hosts about 400 vendors spread across 20 acres, ensuring that there’s something for everyone. Beyond the wealth of f lea market wares, there are appraisal services and refreshments, including beer and wine for shoppers ready to toast their epics finds. Sundays from mid-April to October. hollisflea.com OUTDOOR MUSEUM ANDRES INSTITUTE OF ART, BROOKLINE

With names like Upheaval, Horse of Inspiration, and Growing with the Flow, the creations at New England’s largest sculpture park spark wonderment and conversation.

Constructed on-site by artists from five continents during 21 annual two-week symposia, 100 large-scale works entwine with

nature along 10 miles of trails that climb Big Bear Mountain. Pause to consider each, including a new Old Man of the Mountain, from your own unique perspective. andresinstitute.org PUBLIC GOLF COURSE COUNTRY CLUB OF NEW HAMPSHIRE, NORTH SUTTON

When golfers speak of “classic” golf courses, they might simply point to this lovely and unpretentious 90-year-old course set at the base of Mount Kearsarge. The 7,000-yard course spreads along undulating wooded terrain, with the f lank of the mountain hovering nearby. The 18 holes (especially 8, 9, 16, and 17) will test the most skillful without being so daunting as to discourage those still growing into the sport. Year after year, the friendliness and helpfulness of staff draws raves. And for those who want to make a weekend of it, the abundance of lakeside lodging in the Sunapee region is a big plus. countryclubofnh.com PYO FRUIT FARM RIVERVIEW FARM, PLAINFIELD

Get your fruit fix and cut your own f lowers, too, at one of the prettiest PYO farms we’ve ever seen. Fertile Connecticut River Valley soil produces vibrant crops, kicking off around mid-August with blueberries, which never taste better than when they’re freshplucked. Raspberries follow, then pumpkins and apples galore, from August’s early Paula

The jewel of this 25,650-acre refuge on the New Hampshire–Maine border is vast Umbagog Lake, whose serene waters invite wildlife lovers to paddle out into nature in hopes of spotting loons, osprey, herons, and—most famously—nesting pairs of bald eagles. For those inclined to stay on dry land, there’s a short handicapped-accessible trail to an observation platform that’s a prime perch for viewing moose, boreal birds, and waterfowl; the longer Roost Trail leads to 110 |

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KRISTIN TEIG

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Umbagog National Wildlife Refuge, Errol

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Reds through the CrimsonCrisps and SnowSweets that ripen in October. riverviewnh.com

wines by the glass, you’re free to pursue any flights of fancy. cottonfood.com

ICE CREAM STAND SANCTUARY DAIRY FARM ICE CREAM, SUNAPEE

ZIPLINE BRETTON WOODS CANOPY TOUR, BRETTON WOODS

CRAFT BREWERY STONEFACE BREWING CO., NEWINGTON

While the atmosphere at Sanctuary Dairy Farm lends itself to a day of outdoor family fun—with farm animals, trees for climbing, and yard games—the ice cream is the thing that’s not to be missed. And after all, it’s not every day you’re served scoops out of a converted sheep barn! Find hard ice cream, gelato, soft-serve, and sorbet in a range of flavors from standard to extravagant, but the one concoction that no self-respecting New Englander should miss is the maple ice cream f lavored with real New Hampshire syrup and mixed with chunks of maple candy and homemade fudge. icecreamkidbeck.com

Clean, crisp, health-giving air attracted the White Mountains’ first vacationers, and you can drink it in with gusto on this high-flying, three-hour adventure. Dual-cabled for safety, the course is composed of nine ziplines, three rappelling ropes, and two Indiana Jones–style sky bridges. Before long, you’ll be bantering with your trusty guides and feeling relaxed enough to appreciate the rarity of seeing the Presidential Range and the tip-tops of ancient hemlocks from this angle. brettonwoods.com

DINING CITY PATIO DINING COTTON, MANCHESTER

Sheltered by a vine-covered arbor, the sundappled courtyard patio at Cotton is the ideal spot for tucking into chef-owner Jeffrey Paige’s modern comfort fare, from crab cakes and fried chicken to a spectacular meatloaf.

For drinks, the 12 signature martinis are justifiably beloved, but with more than 40

Actually Fly a bird!

F

When Pete Beauregard won first place for a home-brewed IPA in Boston in 2013, he knew he was onto something good. The following year, he would debut Stoneface Brewing on the outskirts of Portsmouth and begin turning out the best-selling Stoneface IPA. For a lighter beer, try Stoneface’s Berliner Weisse with hints of either blackberry or raspberry—or go for the special doublefruited version. stonefacebrewing.com FARM STAND LULL FARM, HOLLIS

The f lagship location of Lull Farm is open year-round and has something special in every season: vegetable starts and colorful annuals in spring, pick-your-own strawberries and abundant produce come summer, apple cider doughnuts and farm-raised turkeys in fall, and Christmas trees and homemade soups for winter. The farm store also sells farm-raised beef and chicken, pies from Lull Farm’s own bakery, and anything else you might need for a farm-fresh dinner. livefreeandfarm.com

LAKE-VIEW DINING OAK AND GRAIN, NEW LONDON

The Inn at Pleasant Lake’s namesake body of water provides the beautiful backdrop for delectable meals from its in-house restaurant. Chef Bryan Leary counts an on-site herb garden and maple stand among his culinary inspirations, and his menus give pride of place to local ingredients. Guests can opt for à la carte dining, tasting menus, or even chef-led cooking classes throughout the year. oakandgrain.com

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IT’S ALWAYS WORTH THE TRIP. Top off your trip at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlet! No matter where in New Hampshire your travels take you, you’re never far from our stores.

Take a piece of the Granite State home with you by visiting our NH Made section featuring dozens of products made by local distilleries and wineries.

There’s something for everyone!

FOLLOW US FOR SAVINGS LiquorandWineOutlets.com *Some restrictions apply. Exclusive and last chance items not included. Please drink responsibly.

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NEW HAMPSHIRE

LOBSTER SHACK RYE HARBOR LOBSTER POUND, RYE

This diminutive shack is most notable for one signature f lourish: seasoning its lobster meat with a touch of sherry. You’ll taste this unbeatable pairing in the hot-and-buttered lobster roll and the lobster bisque, and once you’ve had it, you may never go back to plain old buttered lobster again. Looking for a cold roll? They have that too, accented with celery and a hint of lemon, as well as a delicious clam chowder. Facebook MOUNTAIN-VIEW DINING CARRIAGE HOUSE RESTAURANT, MOULTONBOROUGH

WINERY HERMIT WOODS WINERY, MEREDITH

If you haven’t yet fallen under the sway of fruit wines, prepare to be surprised and delighted by the offerings from Hermit Woods Winery. Here, they craft fruit wines of remarkable depth, such as a lush blueberry wine evocative of pinot noir, and an heirloom crabapple wine that’s a medium-dry sparkler. You can taste the wines at a guided, seated tasting (some with food pairings), or pop in for a more casual self-guided tasting and order from a menu of sandwiches and other nibbles at the in-house deli. hermitwoods.com

LODGING FARM STAY INN AT EAST HILL FARM, TROY

Kids willingly unplug at this hands-on farm with resort-style amenities including indoor and outdoor pools. There are always cows to milk, horses to ride, and grumbling chickens hiding the blue eggs you’ll want cooked your way for breakfast, yet each weekend offers new themed or seasonal activities that strengthen family ties or kindle passion for a hobby like cross-stitch or square dancing. Warm predinner fritters and warmer hospitality welcome all guests “home.” east-hill-farm.com HOTEL ON THE BEACH SEASIDE VILLAGE RESORT, NORTH HAMPTON

Four miles north of the hubbub of Hampton Beach, surrounded by multimillion-dollar oceanfront residences, this enduring property’s allure is all in its location. After all, do 114 |

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AMC Highland Center Lodge in Crawford Notch, Bretton Woods

you really need fancy furnishings and froufrou linens when warm sand and invigorating seawater are right outside your door?

New Hampshire’s lone hotel directly on the beach offers a mix of townhouses and other units, including some with kitchenettes for budget-friendly extended stays. seasidevillageresort.com HOTEL PORCH OMNI MOUNT WASHINGTON RESORT, BRETTON WOODS

Built on a palatial scale and on a parallel line with the Presidential Range, the Mount Washington is the rare survivor of the White Mountains’ grand hotel era. Its 903-footlong wraparound veranda—the longest porch in New England—was quite the place to promenade in 1902. It remains an unparalleled perch for observing resort goings-on, unwinding with drinks, and binge-watching sun-glossed mountain views. omnihotels.com ISLAND INN OCEANIC HOTEL, STAR ISLAND

Day-trippers catch the ferry in Rye or Portsmouth to visit Star Island, the most prominent of the nine Isles of Shoals, and stroll and picnic on its 46 ocean-swept acres. But for a deeper experience, you can book a “personal retreat” or attend a themed conference at the Oceanic Hotel, one of the grand wooden hotels that graced the New England coast in years past.

What it lacks in luxury (shared baths, simple but comfortable rooms), it more than makes up for with a porch that’s custom-built for relaxing, and a peacefulness that comes with seeing the sea with few distractions, sharing a historic island inn with others who are there for the exact same reason. starisland.org

LAKESIDE CAMPGROUND WHITE LAKE STATE PARK, TAMWORTH

Twenty miles south of North Conway, glacially carved White Lake has been providing generation after generation of New Hampshire swimmers a place to cool off. The wise ones spend the night on the sandy shoreline to watch the sunset over the White Mountains.

The 140 sites are located in a pitch pine forest a short walk to the beach. nhstateparks.org WHITE MOUNTAINS CAMPGROUND LAFAYETTE PLACE CAMPGROUND, FRANCONIA NOTCH STATE PARK, FRANCONIA

Book one of the 97 sites at Lafayette, evenly spaced in the woods and along a creek, and you’ll be at one of the finest starting points for outdoor recreation in the White Mountains. You can choose to swim in nearby Echo Lake, bike on trails to Cannon Mountain, or take some of the best-known hikes in New England to Lonesome Lake, BasinCascades, or the ridge walk atop Mount Lafayette. nhstateparks.org WILDERNESS LODGE AMC HIGHLAND CENTER LODGE IN CRAWFORD NOTCH, BRETTON WOODS

Stay at the Appalachian Mountain Club’s f lagship lodge, in one of the White Mountains’ most alluring spots, and you lay claim to the expert guidance and free-to-borrow gear you need if you and your family aren’t typically outdoorsy. Accommodations are varied and no-frills: You’re here to spend your time hiking, climbing, biking, paddling, and observing wildlife and waterfalls.

Even after a hearty included dinner, you’ll want to venture out to peer at intensely sparkly stars. outdoors.org

C O U R T E S Y O F T H E A P PA L AC H I A N M O U N TA I N C LU B

After making his fortune in the shoe business, Tom Plant built a country estate, called Lucknow, in the Ossipee Mountains at the turn of the 20th century. Today the remarkable property includes the castle-like mansion itself and surrounding gardens, which are open for tours from late May until late October, as well as an extensive network of hiking and ski trails. At the restaurant, the Carriage House, you can dine on a terrace overlooking the mountains and Lake Winnipesaukee. castleintheclouds.org

NEWENGLAND.COM

3/15/21 12:30 PM

Summer Happiness...

HAMPTON BEACHHNH Super Star Rated U.S.A. Beach

C O U R T E S Y O F T H E A P PA L AC H I A N M O U N TA I N C LU B

Over 100 Free Events...

• 80 Free Nightly Concerts • 17 Spectacular Fireworks Displays Every Wed. Night & Holidays • Free Movies on the Beach Monday Nights • World Class 21st Annual Master Sand Sculpting Competition $15,000 in prizes • Country Music in July • Beach Volleyball Tournaments • Children’s Festival • Talent Competition • Circus Show • Seafood Festival (fee) • Fire Show on beach

SUPER STAR BEACH earns top honors for clean water

5 STAR RATING: Rated in the top 5 beaches in US and in the top 10 values for resorts in America for water quality and safety by the National Resources Defense Council.

Hampton Beach is rated 1 of 4 beaches in water cleanliness of all beaches in U.S.A.! as awarded by The Surfrider Foundation & Sierra Club’s “The Cleanest Beach Award”.

For a FREE Hampton Beach Vacation Guide and to View our Beach Cam, Visit www.hamptonbeach.org or call 1-800-GET-A-TAN.

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TAKE A TRIP THAT TOPS THEM ALL. DISCOVER YOUR NEW

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CRAFT LASTING MEMORIES DISCOVER YOUR NEW Voted Voted “Best “Best Pizza in The Lakes Region” for Running! for 21 21 Years Years and and Running!

Very Musical, Very Italian & Very Good!

Very Voted Musical, VeryinItalian Very Good!

“Best Pizza The Lakes& Region” for 21 Years and Running!

Very Musical, Very Italian & Very Good!

The Largest Arcade In The World!

600 Games for All Ages

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Giuseppe’s Giuseppe’s RISTORANTE PIZZERIA

– All Aboard! PIZZERIA PIZZERIA RISTORANTE & &RISTORANTE

Giuseppe’s Giuseppe’s The Mountaineer offers a supremely scenic journey over Crawford Notch.

A Choice of Heritage and Scenic Train Rides!

A White Mountains Attraction

&

Giuseppe’s Giuseppe’s Lunch and Dinner Daily

This unique and popular restaurant is one of Live Musical Entertainment Nightly!

Award-winning Italian Menu Featuring all Your Favorites! the Lakes Region’s most loved since 1989!

& RISTORANTE ServingPIZZERIA Award-Winning Gourmet Pizza, Pasta, Seafood, Steak, Chicken, Veal, Lunch and Dinner Daily Delivery (within 5 miles) Gluten-Free, Reservations highly recommended Take-out Vegetarian, Vegan, Soup, Corner of Routes 3 & 25 Entertainment Mill Falls Marketplace, Meredith, NH Live Musical Nightly!

PIZZERIA & RISTORANTE Salads, Sandwiches, Desserts, Beer, (603) 279-3313 Award-winning Italian Menu Featuring all Your Favorites!

Menu, daily specials, menu, hours and info. at giuseppesnh.com Wineanand Spirits!

Dinner Daily Two Lunch Bars andand International Wine List!

Lunch & Dinner Daily • Reservations Required Live Musical Entertainment Nightly!

Join us in THE GROTTO AT GIUSEPPE’S for Karaoke, Thursdays at 10 p.m.

Curbside Pick-up •Menu Delivery Service Nightly and DJ and dancing, and Saturdays 10Your p.m.–1 a.m.

Award-winning ItalianFridays Featuring all Favorites!

5 International miles 4-8Wine pm)List!

Two(within Bars and an Two Bars and an International Wine List!

Join us in THE GROTTO AT GIUSEPPE’S for Karaoke, Thursdays at 10 p.m. and DJ and dancing, Fridays and Saturdays 10 p.m.–1 a.m.

•

Take a step back in time and experience heritage train travel on our Valley Trains or enjoy a scenic journey aboard the Mountaineer!

20 Lane Bowling Center Mini-Golf RISTORANTE PIZZERIA Indoor D.A. Long Tavern • Restaurant Cash Bingo • Free Party Rooms

•

•

Take-out • Delivery (within 5 miles) • Reservations highly recommended Corner of Routes 3 &AT25GIUSEPPE’S Fallsfor Marketplace, Meredith,at NH Join us in THE GROTTO Karaoke, 10 p.m.

Corner of• Mill Routes 3 & Thursdays 25 DJ and dancing, Fridays279-3313 and Saturdays 10 p.m.–1 a.m.

MillandFalls Marketplace, Meredith, NH (603)

OPEN ALL YEAR

Menu, daily specials, menu, hours and info. at giuseppesnh.com

Call or Book online

ConwayScenic.com • (603) 356-5251 38 Norcross Circle | North Conway Village

Family Farm Stays

Take-out • Delivery (within 5 miles) • Reservations highly recommended (603) 279-3313 Corner of Routes 3 & 25 • Mill Falls Marketplace, Meredith, NH

Menu, daily specials, hours & info at

(603) 279-3313 giuseppesnh.com Menu, daily specials, menu, hours and info. at giuseppesnh.com

Family owned and operated for 49 years

east-hill-farm.com

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Troy, N.H.

LOCH LYME LODGE “Get back to the basics”

MAKE CARLSON’S THE HUB OF YOUR WHITE MOUNTAINS VACATION ...

The Inn at East Hill Farm

Rt 3, Weirs Beach, NH • FunspotNH.com

Enjoy the mountain air hiking the Whites, riding the Cog up Mt. Washington, adventuring in Franconia Notch, or gazing at our brilliant night sky.

603-846-5501 www.carlsonslodge.com

rte. 302 west twin mountain

20 cabins with fireplaces Restaurant Late June – Labor Day Play, swim, boat, fish, hike, bike, and relax by the lake in Lyme, NH Open May to October • Pet-Friendly

800-423-2141 www.LochLymeLodge.com ~since 1923~

NEWENGLAND.COM

3/17/21 2:57 PM

One Of New Hampshire’s Top Rated Family Campgrounds Proudly Serving Campers Since 1965

Seaside Village Resort Enjoy the beach during your summer vacation at NH’s only resort on the sand.

Celebrating more than eighty years as a favorite family destination.

SeasideVillageResort.com 603-964-8204

The only resort in NH that’s “right on the beach” – Frommers Guide

Playground Camping Cabin Rentals Horseshoes Water/Electric Sites Basketball • Rec Hall Water/Electric/Sewer Sites Heated Pool Seasonal Sites • Camp Store Waterslides • Splash Pad LP gas, wood, ice Fishing Pond Dump station • On-site owners High Speed WiFi Laundry • Enforced quiet hours Pet Friendly Kayak/Canoe rentals 24 Longview Rd • Hancock NH • 03449 WWW.SEVENMAPLES.COM - (603) 525-3321 Call and request our Free 12-page camping guide

HAMPTON BEACH,NH

“Not Your Traditional Roadside Cabins”

HHHHH

Handcrafted, year-round rustic log homes for any type of getaway: family vacations, group gatherings, or romantic getaways.

Sleeps 2-12 guests, fireplace, TV, heat, showers, and phone.

Most cabins are pet friendly.

Rediscover the #1 rated U.S.A. Super Star Beach!

THE MARGATE RESORT LOCATED ON 400 FEET OF PRIVATE SANDY BEACH ON THE SHORES OF LAKE WINNIPESAUKEE AND OFFERING 141 BEAUTIFULLY APPOINTED GUEST ROOMS.

5 star rating!

National Resources Defense Council "Testing the Waters: A Guide to Water Quality at Vacation Beaches" top 100 beaches water quality & safety. Hampton Beach in top 5 beaches & top 10 resorts in USA.

LAKE VIEW ROOMS AVAILABLE FREE WIRELESS INTERNET INDOOR & OUTDOOR POOLS BEAUTY SALON WHIRLPOOL, SAUNA, FITNESS CENTER BEACH BAR WEDDING, GROUP EVENT, AND CONFERENCE FACILITIES COMPLIMENTARY CONTINENTAL BREAKFAST

76 LAKE ST. LACONIA, NH 1-800-MARGATE WWW.THEMARGATE.COM MAY | JUNE 2021

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• 80 Free Nightly Concerts • 17 Spectacular Fireworks Wednesday Nights & Holidays • Master Sand Sculpting Competition • Country Fest • Children’s Festival • Talent Competition • Circus • Seafood Festival • Fire Show VISIT hamptonbeach.org for calendar For FREE Travel Guide or to view the beach on our live Beach Cam,

visit www.hamptonbeach.org

800-586-4507 www.josselyns.com 306 North Rd • Jefferson, NH | 119

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5,000-STAR ACCOMMODATIONS DISCOVER YOUR NEW

VIST L AKESREGION.ORG TO PL AN YOUR GETAWAY!   

ESCAPE ENDLESS ACTIVITIES IN NORTH CONWAY

Top outlet brands, local eateries with great patios, and public art.

Just minutes from the White Mountain National Forest in tax-free North Conway.

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Red Jacket Jacket Red Jacket Red Mountain View Resort Resort Red Jacket View Mountain Resort ViewWater &Mountain Kahuna Laguna Park Resort View Mountain Water Park

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Indoor 1-800-227-3263 1-800-227-3263 1-800-227-3263 redjacketresorts.com 1-800-227-3263 redjacketresorts.com redjacketresorts.com north conway, nh nh redjacketresorts.com north conway, nh conway, north north conway, nh NEWENGLAND.COM

3/17/21 2:59 PM

Romance & Relaxation Fireplaces • Jacuzzis Fire Pit

17 Harriman Road • Jackson NH 03846 800-233-8309 603-383-0339 www.InnAtEllisRiver.com

Explore the Beauty of Squam Lake

Guided cruises and private charters available. www.nhnature.org | 603-968-7194 | Holderness, NH

Salmon FallS

Stoneware

Traditional New England Salt-Glaze Pottery Handmade by Local Artisans

• Open year round • Gateway to the White Mountains • 140-ft sandy beach on Squam Lake • Cottages, Cottage Suites (two room family apartments) and our Lodge (six bedroom rental) • Close to

many great restaurants, and NH Lakes Region attractions

cottageplaceonsquam.com cottageplace@gmail.com 603-968-7116

Open Every Day 9am - 5pm 75 Oak Street, Dover, NH

(603) 749-1467 www.SalmonFalls.com MAY | JUNE 2021

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ETA: NOT SOON ENOUGH DISCOVER YOUR NEW

Our Littleton, NH Hotel A Historic New England Landmark

Family Camping in a Farm Setting on the Swift River 194 Depot Road Tamworth, NH 03886 603-323-8031 • tamworthcamping.com

Drive • Tour • Explore MOUNT WASHINGTON Just 25 minutes north of North Conway

Enjoy Old-World Charm Mixed with Modern Amenities for a Truly Unique Experience

Walk to Restaurants, Shops, Attractions, and Activities Free Grab-&-Go Breakfast Free Hi Speed WiFi • Free Parking Distinctive and Charming Rooms Banquet and Meeting Space

www.thayersinn.com 603-444-6469 info@thayersinn.com

GUIDED TOURS

Mt-Washington.com

•

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(603) 466-3988

PHOTO: DAVID J. MURRAY CLEAR EYE PHOTO

DRIVE YOURSELF

From sun up to sun down, our little city by the sea invites you to enjoy our shores once more.

Come explore Portsmouth and the Seacoast!

GoPortsmouthNH.com

NEWENGLAND.COM

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A lifestyle, leisure and event resort dedicated to providing a quintessential New England experience…

The historic houses reopen on June 19, 2021 Plan your visit via StrawberyBanke.org 14 Hancock Street Portsmouth, NH 03801 603.433.1100

an Owned Vacation Property

Own a week or more • All units completely furnished with full kitchen • Rentals Available Complimentary: White Mountain Athletic Club • Native ID • WV Ice Arena Admission

• 603-236-8366 •

•s (ISTORIC ACRE ESTATE AND GARDENS Historic 15-acre estate and gardens •s ROOMS COTTAGES SUITES 41 rooms, cottages and suites •s 2ESTAURANT AND PUB Restaurant and Pub •s &ULL SERVICE !VEDA #ONCEPT 3PA Full-service Aveda Spa •s )NDOOR POOL HOT TUB AND lTNESS CENTRE Indoor pool, hot tub and fitness center •s /UTDOOR POOL AND POOL BAR Seasonal outdoor pool •s 7EDDINGS EVENTS Weddings, elopements, and private events

Eat. Stay. Shop. Play.

InnsOfWatervilleValley.com

Christmas Farm Inn & Spa 3 Blitzen Way, Jackson, NH 03846 1-800-443-5837 info@christmasfarminn.com christmasfarminn.com

monadnocktravel.com

Experience Southwest New Hampshire!

Village Condominium Waterville Valley, NH

ENJOY ALL FOUR SEASONS IN WATERVILLE VALLEY

Lakeside Camping Lakeside Camping

• TENTERS WELCOME • EXCELLENT FISHING Tent Cottage & Tent Trailer Rentals

thth ar!

Year r 65 r 65 Ye g OuOu

atbrinating brle • Ce a le• Ce g aAre gpAinre am CampCin

TENTERS WELCOME . EXCELLENT FISHING

• BOATING & SWIMMING • FREE WIFI • BOATING & SWIMMING • RECREATION LODGE • FREE WIFI • RECREATION LODGE • 50+ RV SAFARI FIELD • 50+ RV SAFARI FIELD • NEW! CLEAN RESTROOMS • NEW! CLEAN RESTROOMS • NEW! FREE SHOWERS • NEW! FREE SHOWERS (603) 239-4768 • LAUNDRY Conveniently located at 136 Athol Road near Rte. 119 on Rte. 32, Richmond, NH. • LAUNDRY & CANTEEN • CANTEEN Tent Cottage and Tent Trailer Rentals

Two - Five bedroom, fully-equipped condominiums starting at $ 300.00 per night. All rates include daily access to the White Mt. Athletic Club, 9 holes of golf, tennis, mt. biking, boats, recreation dept. activities, 239-4768 us at www.shir-roy.com Write or Call for Brochure. and much more. Call for more information. (603)Visit

APPROVED

Conveniently located at 136 Athol Road near Rte. 119 on Rte. 32, Richmond, NH. Address: Shir-Roy Camping, 100 Athol Rd., Richmond, NH 03470 1-800-532-6630 • www.villagecondo.com Visit us atMailing www.shir-roy.com Write or Call for Brochure.

Mailing Address: Shir-Roy Camping, 100 Athol Rd., Richmond, NH 03470

MAY | JUNE 2021

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APPROVED

APPROVED

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COAST THROUGH SUMMER DISCOVER YOUR NEW

Your Visit to Wolfeboro Can Be… …Whatever You Want It To Be Waterfront Shopping.

Dining & Lodging.

Biking Tennis Pickleball.

Boat Rentals.

Golf. Art Galleries.

Sunsets.

Paddleboarding.

Concerts.

Cruises.

Trolley Tours.

Theatre .

Scuba Diving.

Four Museums.

Kayaking.

Jet Skis.

Farmers’ Market.

Fishing .

Ask for a FREE brochure!

at wolfeborochamber.com 603-569-2200 Sponsored by Town of Wolfeboro Wolfeboro Economic Development Committee “Work and Live Where You Love to Play” wolfeboronh.us

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Made from Scratch Pancakes, waffles, French toast, soups, sandwiches, quiche, ice cream, pies and more.

Open Daily 7 am

I-93, Exit 38 672 Rte. 117 Sugar Hill, NH 603-823-5575 www.PollysPancakeParlor.com

Be Safe.

Be Adventurous.

Be in the Know.

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OUR

30th YEAR

Season 56 weathervanenh.org | 603-837-9322

Opens in alternating rep June 26!

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This is where you want to be!

11 great productions: Kinky Boots She Loves Me The Addams Family Amadeus Hello, Dolly! and more!

June 26 - October 10, 2021

389 Lancaster Road, Whitefield, NH

June 26 - October 10, 2021 June 26 - October 10, 2021 389 Lancaster R Road, oad, Whitefield, Whitefield, NH

NEWENGLAND.COM 389 Lancaster R Road, oad, Whitefield, Whitefield, NH

3/19/21 4:38 PM

CAMPING HERE IS S’MORE FUN DISCOVER YOUR NEW

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3/19/21 10:51 AM

BEST OF NEW ENGL AND

VERMONT ATTRACTIONS DRIVE-IN THEATER SUNSET DRIVE-IN, COLCHESTER

The only thing better than a family night at the movies is when the big-screen fun also includes a mini-golf course and a playground.

Opened in 1946, the Burlington area’s sole drive-in theater flickers to life every night in summer with double features on four giant screens. Just next door, the Starlight Inn offers movie-themed rooms for those who’d like to extend the cinematic spell. sunsetdrivein.com FARM ANIMAL FUN RETREAT FARM, BRATTLEBORO

Scan a QR code for up-to-date “dirt” on where animals are pasturing, then explore the farmyard and trails that loop through 500 free-to-visit acres that have nourished bodies and minds since 1836. Each creature has a job: Goats gobble invasive plants, pigs till soil, cows contribute fertilizer. Tramp through the

TRAVEL NOTE Before setting out to visit any of our Best of New England winners, please contact them or check online for updates on hours and operations this summer.

echo-y cow tunnel under Route 30, and you’ll see fields that produced 10,000 pounds of crops for food banks in 2020. retreatfarm.org OUTDOOR FLEA MARKET WATERBURY FLEA MARKET, WATERBURY

Since getting its start in 1975, Waterbury’s weekly flea-for-all has grown to comprise 10 acres of antique and used furniture, household utensils, books, records, glassware, jewelry, and more. Count on low vendor fees to keep the selection both reasonable and eclectic.

Weekends from May to October. Facebook OUTDOOR MUSEUM LAKE CHAMPLAIN MARITIME MUSEUM, VERGENNES

Explore New England’s most storied lake from every angle—even from a hand-built wooden longboat, which your family group can power on a rowing tour. Outdoor exhibits on three acres have been expanded, and you’ll have the rare chance this summer to see Philadelphia II, a replica of Benedict Arnold’s 1776 gunboat, out of the water for maintenance. In a historic development, the museum will be admissionfree for the first time this year. lcmm.org

Experience. Together.

Everything you need for a perfect vacation is right here.

Adventure, luxury, and absolute relaxation.

PUBLIC GOLF COURSE GREEN MOUNTAIN NATIONAL, KILLINGTON

At the state’s only municipal course—which has been cared for by the same superintendent for nearly a quarter century—the fairways are narrow, the woods are close, and glacial boulders abound, but with views as special as the ones you see from the 16th tee, you may be tempted to stop swinging and take photos.

Hours spent here are a true respite—one made even sweeter on summer days when a beer cart with local craft brews stops by. gmngc.com PYO FRUIT FARM CHAMPLAIN ORCHARDS, SHOREHAM

866.400.7551

Woodstock, Vermont www.woodstockinn.com Vermont’s Most Beautiful Address 126 |

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Famed for its apples and ciders, Champlain Orchards is also your place to pick immuneboosting elderberries; red, black, and gold raspberries; apricots; cherries; red and pink currants; blackberries; peaches; nectarines; and Asian and European pears and plums.

Check the online PYO Tracker for what’s popping. champlainorchards.com

DINING CITY PATIO DINING BRICK, BURLINGTON

The lush alfresco dining room behind the Hotel Vermont comes with its own outdoor kitchen and a wood-burning oven that serves up excellent pizzas made with local Jasper Hill Farm cheeses, as well as sandwiches, charcuterie, salads, and a well-curated beer, wine, and cocktail list. hotelvt.com/eat-drink/ brickoutdoorkitchenandbar CRAFT BREWERY HILL FARMSTEAD BREWERY, GREENSBORO BEND

Nearly since its start in 2010, this has been a place of pilgrimage for beer geeks. Some of the best-loved brews are named after founder Shaun Hill’s forbears, including double IPA Abner, while the Philosophical series includes the popular maple-infused imperial stout Beyond Good and Evil. Mediocrity has no place here, as evidenced by the awards and accolades Hill Farmstead hauls in, year after year. hillfarmstead.com FARM STAND HUDAK FARM, SWANTON

While Hudak Farm’s greenhouses might be what lures folks here in spring, they return to the farm stand throughout spring, summer, and fall to stock up on vegetables picked that day, as well as farm-raised pork and seasonal treats such as fresh-pressed apple cider and house-made maple syrup. hudakfarm.com ICE CREAM STAND VERMONT COOKIE LOVE, NORTH FERRISBURGH

Founded in 2007, Vermont Cookie Love runs a year-round shop and production facility that sells fresh-baked cookies and frozen cookie dough, but it’s the maple creemees, sold from the seasonal walk-up ice cream, that make this place a summertime rock star. Also on offer is Vermont’s own Wilcox Ice Cream, topped with house-made whipped cream, hot fudge, and salted caramel or sandwiched between two cookies in a chewy, creamy pièce de résistance. vermontcookielove.com MOUNTAIN-VIEW DINING THE CLIFF HOUSE, STOWE

There’s mountain-view dining, and then there’s mountain-top dining. For the latter, take the gondola from Stowe Mountain Resort to the summit of Mount Mansfield, where the Austrian chalet–style Cliff House awaits. The panoramic Green Mountain

NEWENGLAND.COM

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Inn_to_In

advertorial

INN to INN WALKING TOUR

MAP ILLUSTR ATION BY M I C H A E L B Y E R S

VERMONT

WALK FROM INN-TO-INN AND SEE VERMONT AT 10 MILES A DAY The “Vermont Inn-to-Inn Walking Tour” is a four-day, selfguided walk averaging 10 miles a day, mainly through old country roads of gravel and through the villages of Chester, Weston, Proctorsville and Ludlow. The four historic inns–Colonial House Inn & Motel, Inn Victoria, Golden Stage Inn, and The Pettigrew are linked by their owners’ shared love of Vermont and a commitment to their undertheradar walking tour. The oldest and longest running tour of its kind in the state, Vermont Innto-Inn Walking Tour is well established and focused on guest safety and comfort

your day with refreshments and a home-cooked meal; and, in the morning, send you on your way with a hearty breakfast, snacks for the road, a map of your walking route, and best wishes for a pleasant day. Its a large circle divided by four Inns; you end up back at the same inn you started at four days earlier.

A final feature that sets this tour apart from so many others?

You’re on your own, so you can set your own pace. Walk alone or with friends; do as much or as little of the walk as you like.

Basically, the tour is as idiosyncratic as the state in which you’re walking. Join us from mid-May through the end of October.

It’s simple and efficient. The innkeepers transport your bags door to door, Vermont sherpa-style; greet you at the end of

833-Inn-2-Inn (833-466-2466) www.VermontInntoInnWalking.com

THE WALK PART 1: (13 miles)

PART 2: (9 miles)

PART 3: (6.8 miles)

PART 4: (11 miles)

INN VICTORIA

GOLDEN STAGE INN

THE PETTIGREW INN

THE COLONIAL HOUSE INN

INN VICTORIA TO GOLDEN STAGE INN 321 Main St., Chester, VT 802-875-4288 InnVictoria.com

GOLDEN STAGE INN TO THE PETTIGREW INN 399 Depot St., Proctorsville, VT 802-226-7744 GoldenStageInn.com

THE PETTIGREW INN TO THE COLONIAL HOUSE INN 13 Pleasant St., Ludlow, VT 802-228-4846 PettigrewInn.com

THE COLONIAL HOUSE INN & MOTEL TO INN VICTORIA 287 Route 100, Weston, VT 802-824-6286 CoHoInn.com

“It’s a meditative walk. Long before the village of Chester appears and I’ve come full circle, I realize that my life has become breathtakingly simple in the last few days. I walk; I look at wildflowers; I avoid poison ivy; I take a deep breath and listen to nature singing; I wonder what’s up ahead; I try to remember to look back from time to time. Occasionally I hum–and then try to get the song out of my head.

–Annie Graves, Yankee Magazine, May/June 2012 | To read more, visit: NewEngland.com/Inn

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Fletcher Farm School for the Arts and Crafts Relax and indulge in learning something new at Vermont’s oldest arts and crafts school.

Take a class in painting, stained glass, metalworking, quilting, jewelry, woodworking, pottery or any of our offerings for adults and young artists.

FletcherFarm.org 802-228-8770

Casablanca

15

Reasons to Visit Vermont The quiet beauty of Vermont’s landscape draws visitors in each season. Don’t miss out on our favorite reasons to visit and celebrate the state of Vermont.

Modern amenities, vintage vibe. Voted “Best Retro Escape”.

Private setting, close to town.

Year-round outdoor recreation, fine dining and Designer Outlets.

Great for couples, groups, intimate reunions & small weddings. Call for best rates.

CasablancaMotel.com 800-254-2145

Outdoor Events at Spruce Peak From trivia nights, interactive markets and movies on the green to farm table dinners and world-class concerts, the Spruce Peak Village Green comes alive this summer. Enjoy spacious outdoor activities, dining and fun events for the entire family.

SprucePeak.com

Photo: Courtesy of Vermont Tourism

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Liberty Hill Farm

The Historic Inns of Dorset, Vermont

Cold Hollow Sculpture Park Stretch your legs and mind exploring 60+ sculptures across six meadows in the hills of Northern Vermont. Curiosity, contemplation, and adventure await you in this inspiring setting.

Picnics welcome. Free admission.

Thu-Sun 12-6pm, June 12-Oct 11.

Come fall in love with The Dorset Inn and Barrows House, with award-winning taverns and restaurants featuring regional farm table cuisine. Set in a lovely Vermont valley, Dorset is the ideal destination for discriminating connoisseurs.

DorsetInn.com BarrowsHouse.com DorsetBakeryVT.com

Sterling Ridge Resort Vermont is waiting for you. Step out of your private cabin and enjoy scenic pond, mountain, or forest views. Take on the day with outdoor adventure, cozy relaxation, remote work, or anything in between. When you’re here, you’re in charge.

Welcome! Reunite your family on the Farm! Create wonderful memories on a Vermont farm vacation. Incredible meals with local foods; comfortable lodging space for everyone. Explore the fields, forest and river. Visit the barn, milk a cow, feed the calves.

LibertyHillFarm.com 802-767-3926

SterlingRidgeresort.com 802-644-8265

ColdHollowSculpturePark.com 512-333-2119

The Woodstocker The Pettigrew Inn

Only in Stowe, Vermont Stowe is a charming four-season destination steeped in history with abundant cultural and recreational activities, vibrant events, and world-class dining, shopping and accommodations.

Discover the best of Vermont including the state’s highest peak, tallest waterfall and three historic covered bridges.

A comfortable year-round getaway in Southern Vermont, The Pettigrew Inn is the place to relax after any day of adventure. Centrally located for hiking, biking, fishing, antiquing, and more, the inn is also walking distance to Ludlow dining and shopping.

PettigrewInn.com 802-228-4846

Jackson House Inn A historic inn meets contemporary luxury just outside one of Vermont’s most beautiful villages. Refined sitting rooms, world-class art, glorious gardens, and luxurious lodgings featuring fireplaces and Frette linens meet gourmet breakfasts in our AAA Four Diamond boutique inn.

Roger Sandes Art

*Photo credit: Mark Vandenberg

Relaxation for you and Fido!

Stay and play at our boutique estate in the Mad River Valley featuring swimming holes, covered bridges, stunning fall color and Vermont Fresh cuisine. Lodging, weddings, and celebrations of every kind.

Corporate events, too.

TheWoodstockerBnB.com 802-457-3896

JacksonHouse.com 802-457-2065

GoStowe.com 800-GO-STOWE (467-8693)

Inn at Round Barn Farm

This renovated farmhouse style B&B is in the heart of Woodstock. Stroll downtown through the covered bridge, hike the nearby National Park, visit Billing’s Farm or the Quechee Gorge, and enjoy walking to dinner each night. Guests rave about the breakfast in bed!

Relax! The Phineas Swann Inn & Spa, one of the world’s most dog-friendly inns, now has a full-service day spa, SpaVermont, open for its two-legged guests.

Enjoy a spa day while staffers take your pooch for walks!

PhineasSwann.com 802-326-4306

TheRoundBarn.com 802-496-2276

The Landmark Trust USA Experience history firsthand with a stay at these historic properties, including a farmhouse on an heirloom apple orchard, a romantic retreat, and Naulakha, Rudyard Kipling’s famed estate. Contactless wholehouse rentals, full kitchens.

Properties lovingly restored by a historic preservation nonprofit.

The images that are incorporated into my paintings are symbols of life fertility and civilization icons that have been an integral part of art in all cultures since primitive times. You can view my work, purchase prints, or make an appointment to tour my home studio in Southern Vermont.

RogerSandes.com Re@RogerSandes.com

LandmarkTrustUSA.org 802-254-6868

ourism

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VERMONT

views, stunning in any season, add extra flavor to whatever you order. On a summer day, grab lunch out on the deck. gostowe.com/listing/ cliff-house-restaurant RIVER-VIEW DINING WATERWORKS, WINOOSKI

Nearly every table in the high-ceilinged space of the former Champlain Mill has a gorgeous view of the Winooski River. Serving lunch, dinner, and weekend brunch, Waterworks specializes in American comfort food—think burgers, f latbreads, and pasta—often made with signature Vermont ingredients. Wash it all down with help from a well-chosen lineup of locally brewed beers. waterworksvt.com

ISLAND INN THE NORTH HERO HOUSE, NORTH HERO

LODGING FARM STAY FAT SHEEP FARM & CABINS, HARTLAND

Before they owned 59 acres of woods, fields, and sheep-grazing grounds, Todd Heyman and Suzy Kaplan sketched their dream farm on graph paper. That vision, including five sun-filled cabins with fully outfitted kitchens, is now a real rural escape, where you can collect eggs, milk sheep, or simply porchsit and allow magical mountain views to stir dreams of your own. Three cabins are dogfriendly; stalls are available for visiting horses. fatsheepfarmvermont.com

North of Burlington and running straight up toward Quebec, the Champlain Islands transport visitors to a landscape that takes their breath away. Walter Blasberg, who has been coming to the islands since his boyhood, has managed this gem of a 26-room inn and restaurant for more than two decades. The classic experience is to dine here and then fall sleep to the splash of waves against the dock. Request a lakeside room, and be sure to ask about biking to the nearby great blue heron rookery, where you can listen to bird calls that seem to come from ancient times. northherohouse.com

WINERY LINCOLN PEAK VINEYARD, NEW HAVEN

HOTEL PORCH THE EQUINOX GOLF RESORT & SPA, MANCHESTER

WILDERNESS LODGE MOUNTAIN MEADOWS LODGE, KILLINGTON

After nearly two decades of experimentation, Lincoln Peak winemaker Chris Granstrom has zeroed in on the grapes that grow best in the Champlain Valley. He uses hybrid varieties like Marquette and La Crescent to make award-winning wines that express the distinctive terroir of this part of the state. When summer rolls around, sample them in the casual tasting room overlooking a pond, or pair with your own picnic and lay a blanket on the big lawn. lincolnpeakvineyard.com

Add porch-hopping to the list of outdoor pursuits you’ll want to sample during an action-packed Equinox getaway. Snag coffee and a coveted rocking chair on the columned front porch, and watch the village awaken.

There’s more Main Street hubbub to observe over lunch on the Marsh Tavern porch. Later, sip a maple syrup–sweetened old-fashioned by the slate fire pit on the porch de résistance: the Mount Equinox–facing Falcon Deck. equinoxresort.com

It’s the first summer since this rustic-chic, 26-room retreat was made over by new owners known for intimate properties that honor their settings’ uniqueness. The lodge sits on Kent Pond, with woodlands all around and the AT running straight through, so you can devote hours to hiking, kayaking, and casting for trophy fish. A farmhouse and a 180-year-old barn with exposed original beams and contemporary lodge decor are where you’ll decompress, dine, and dream. mountainmeadowslodge.com

Self-guided Walking Tours Intimate Weddings Workshops on How to Become an Innkeeper Quilters’ Retreat Murder Mystery Dinners New Restaurant - Vermont Comfort Foods served at 6 pm An Historic 1851 B&B with all the modern amenities.

Book Direct @ 802-875-4288 • 321 Main St • Chester, VT • innvictoria.com

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MORE

Even in Vermont

to Explore

Photo: Courtesy of Vermont Tourism

Vermont Institute of Natural Science

Stratton Mountain Resort Visit Stratton Mountain where everything you love about summer is right outside your door. Enjoy scenic lift rides to the summit of southern Vermont’s tallest peak, family-friendly mountain bike park, hiking trails, 27-hole championship golf course, charming Village and spacious condominium lodging.

Elevate your perspective on the new Forest Canopy Walk! Enjoy live raptor programs, nature trails, store, and adventure playscape for all ages. Featuring raptor enclosures that house hawks, eagles, falcons, and owls. The VINS Nature Center in Quechee, VT.

VINSWEB.ORG 802-359-5000 *Photo credit: Tom McNeil

Home of delicious local food and beverages, quaint inns and full-service hotels, new downtown parks and shops and varied outdoor recreation opportunities. Stay for a weekend or a whole week; there’s something for everyone!

ExperienceMiddlebury.com *Photo credit: Jason Duquette-Hoffman

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Burlington, Vermont Untold history, great local fare, a lively waterfront, and a cobblestone marketplace are just a few reasons to visit Burlington. Add breath taking sunsets, beautiful mountain views, and an 8-mile bike path along Lake Champlain and your vacation is complete.

With authentic farm experiences and special events, Retreat Farm is here to inspire and connect you to the natural world. Visit animals on pasture, explore ten-miles of trails, walk the labyrinth garden, and sample award winning-cheese as you experience the grandeur of this historic Farm.

RetreatFarm.org 802-490-2270

Courtyard Burlington Harbor Hotel Marriott.com/BTVDT 802-864-4700

VisitStratton.com 800-STRATTON (787-2886)

Town of Middlebury

Retreat Farm

The Blue Horse Inn

Cabot Farm Trail

A warm, elegant, and inviting B&B with a relaxed atmosphere.

Enjoy our riverside swimming pool, and walk to quaint shops, art galleries, and restaurants right here in Woodstock Village.

Savor our special breakfasts.

Woodstock, VT.

Visit the family farms behind The World’s Best Cheddar.

From farm tours, to cozy B&Bs, to scrumptious local foods— including award-winning Cabot cheese—there’s so much to see and enjoy on Cabot farms.

Follow the “Farm Trail” today!

TheBlueHorseInn.com

Mountain Top Resort Mountain Top Resort is perfectly situated on 700 acres offering luxury lodge rooms, cabins & guest houses, indoor/outdoor restaurant & tavern, pool, lake, private beach, horseback riding, 60km of trails, skiing/snowshoeing, sleigh rides, spa, spectacular views and so much more!

CabotFarmTrail.coop

MountainTopInn.com 802.483.2311

3/22/21 11:00 AM

BEST OF NEW ENGL AND

CONNECTICUT OUTDOOR FLEA MARKET ELEPHANT’S TRUNK FLEA MARKET, NEW MILFORD

ATTRACTIONS DRIVE-IN THEATER MANSFIELD DRIVE-IN THEATRE AND MARKETPLACE, MANSFIELD

Though this 40-acre complex hosts eastern Connecticut’s largest f lea market, the main attraction since 1954 has been cinema under the stars. Three screens show first-run features and old-school flicks via digital projection, while the snack bar serves up everything from clam fritters to fried Oreos. mansfielddrivein.com FARM ANIMAL FUN SILVERMAN’S FARM, EASTON

It’s not just the usual suspects like llamas, sheep, and goats that approach you for a pat and a nibble of grain. Meet shaggy Highland cattle, rams with extravagant horns, and pot-bellied pigs—all adoptees given a forever home by the Silverman family. Allow plenty of time for picnicking and for picking fruits and veggies. silvermansfarm.com/animal-farm

With about 500 vendors, this is reputedly New England’s largest weekly f lea market— and it’s certainly among the best-known, thanks to HGTV’s Flea Market Flip. Scour the displays for collectibles, then stop at the farmers’ market stands and food trucks for provisions. Sundays from April to December. etflea.com OUTDOOR MUSEUM MYSTIC SEAPORT MUSEUM, MYSTIC

America’s preeminent maritime museum preserves not only two million artifacts but also the heartbeat of the golden age of wooden TRAVEL NOTE Before setting out to visit any of our Best of New England winners, please contact them or check online for updates on hours and operations this summer.

Spend the Day

JUNE 5–SEPTEMBER 19

96 Lyme Street, Old Lyme, CT Exit 70 off of I-95 FlorenceGriswoldMuseum.org • 860.434.5542

24-hour advance tickets required

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These 180 acres lie beside a reservoir and a pond, and water offers a challenge on nearly all holes. Fairways winding through woods bordered with stone walls lend the feeling of being in a New England landscape painting.

While long a magnet for locals, nonresidents can play anytime and also can reserve tee times nine days in advance. richterpark.com PYO FRUIT FARM LYMAN ORCHARDS, MIDDLEFIELD

At one of America’s oldest family businesses (c. 1741), all of your faves are on the roster: blueberries, raspberries, peaches, pears, apples, pumpkins, and jostaberries. Never heard of that last one? Lyman is the Northeast’s only commercial grower of these sweettart hybrids. lymanorchards.com

CITY PATIO DINING LA TERRASSE, NEW HAVEN

The Union League Café has always set a highwater mark for fine dining in New Haven, and La Terrasse, its Paris-inspired outdoor eatery, brings that excellence to an alfresco setting.

The menu is more streamlined, but there’s a lovely progression from small bites to raw bar to prix fixe dinners. unionleaguecafe.com CRAFT BREWERY NEW ENGLAND BREWING CO., WOODBRIDGE

Ian Dobbins, Photographer

Reflections on Art, Isolation, and Renewal

PUBLIC GOLF COURSE RICHTER PARK, DANBURY

DINING

A unique place in the history of American art, bringing alive the work of artists where they lived and painted. Galleries, gardens, and a seasonal outdoor café!

SOCIAL & SOLITARY:

shipbuilding on the Mystic River. Interact with artisans and storytellers as you wander the 19th-century village, and climb aboard vessels like the Charles W. Morgan, the last wooden whaleship afloat. mysticseaport.org

Here, tangy IPAs like Sea Hag and Fuzzy Baby Ducks plus myriad other tasty ales and lagers lure beer hounds off the Merritt Parkway before they head to nearby New Haven for their requisite pizza order at Frank Pepe, Sally’s, or Modern. newenglandbrewing.com FARM STAND SPORT HILL FARM, EASTON

At the height of the season, you’ll find nearly 100 varieties of produce to choose from, along with fresh eggs from free-ranging hens.

The stand also carries a curated assortment of items from other local producers, including bread and honey. sporthillfarm.com ICE CREAM STAND FERRIS ACRES CREAMERY, NEWTOWN

Standing in line for a scoop, you may well

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spot the herd of cows in the nearby rolling hills that call Ferris Acres home. This luscious ice cream is made daily in inventive flavors, drawing locals and visitors alike since the creamery was founded in 2003. ferrisacrescreamery.com LOBSTER SHACK LOBSTER LANDING, CLINTON

From his shack ’s waterfront setting to its clamshell driveway, owner Enea Bacci could probably cash in on atmosphere alone, but his care in producing a perfect hot-and-buttered roll is almost heroic: Lobster meat parcooked in a rich broth, then gently finished in butter with a squeeze of lemon and stuffed into a custom-made, griddled bun. Facebook RIVER-VIEW DINING MILLWRIGHT’S, SIMSBURY

In a beautiful post-and-beam dining room with tall windows framing the river and waterfall below, chef-owner Tyler Anderson delivers the kind of innovative, seasonally driven food that’s made him a seven-time James Beard nominee. millwrightsrestaurant.com WINERY GOUVEIA VINEYARDS, WALLINGFORD

It would be worth a visit to this vineyard for

the views alone: a 360-degree panorama encompassing vineyards, woodlands, and fields. Sample your way through the awardwinning lineup of more than a dozen wines year-round; in summer you can also try Gouveia’s Portuguese-inspired sangria and, in winter, mulled wine. gouveiavineyards.com

LODGING

HOTEL PORCH THE WEST LANE INN, RIDGEFIELD

Rich mahogany f loorboards on the fulllength front porch are one of many discoveries that new owners have made while refreshing this 1849 inn, located a quick stroll from downtown. Locally baked scones and iced local coffee accent warm-weather breakfasts on the porch. westlaneinn.com LAKESIDE CAMPGROUND LAKE WARAMAUG STATE PARK, KENT

FARM STAY CHATFIELD HOLLOW INN AT CHATFIELD HOLLOW FARM, KILLINGWORTH

Set beside a koi-filled pond, this log-cabin inn has three woodsy-chic suites with spastyle bathrooms and optional attached single rooms. Explore 26 acres, the domain of black swans, hens, and peacocks, where the chief crop is shiitake mushrooms, grown using traditional Japanese techniques. chfbandb.com

Tucked away in the Litchfield Hills is one of the most cherished campgrounds in the Nutmeg State. The 76 sites are set in a forest near the waters of majestic Lake Waramaug.

Go swimming at the beach, fish for bass, or grab the canoe in the early morning hours for a quiet paddle. portal.ct.gov/deep

HOTEL ON THE BEACH MADISON BEACH HOTEL, MADISON

WILDERNESS LODGE LEGENDS ON THE FARMINGTON, BARKHAMSTED

A Hilton-family boutique property that was rebuilt nine years ago to emulate its historic predecessor, Madison Beach Hotel’s private stretch of sand, jaunty navy-blue shade umbrellas, balconied rooms, alfresco dining, and peachy-pink sunsets combine to make it the ultimate on-the-water escape. hilton.com

Just downstream from 4,000 acres of stateprotected forest, this post-and-beam lodge with six B&B rooms lures serious anglers and mainstream vacationers alike. Outside flows the Farmington River, renowned for yearround f ly fishing. One lesson with a hired guide, and you’ll be hooked. legendsbnb.com

Plan Your Seaside Escape at Saybrook.com

2 Bridge Street, Old Saybrook, CT. 06475 (860)395-2000 | SAYBROOK.COM

MAY | JUNE 2021

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BEST OF NEW ENGL AND

RHODE ISLAND picker’s paradise attracts several dozen vendors selling all manner of antiques, crafts, and collectibles. Rounding things out are farm stands, local nonprofit booths, and food trucks, including Del’s Lemonade. Sundays from April to Columbus Day. Facebook

ATTRACTIONS DRIVE-IN THEATER RUSTIC TRI-VIEW, NORTH SMITHFIELD

The state’s only f irst-run drive-in may be retro to the point of no-frills, but with three screens showing double features plus a snack bar that doles out doughboys and clam cakes, it’s a guaranteed good time. Facebook

OUTDOOR MUSEUM COGGESHALL FARM MUSEUM, BRISTOL

Newly allied with Old Sturbridge Village, this coast-side living history farm takes visitors further back in time than its sister site. It’s the 1790s here, and structures, tools, and tasks demonstrated by costumed interpreters, such as broom making and wool spinning, offer a glimpse of life in New

FARM ANIMAL FUN SOUTH COUNTY MUSEUM, NARRAGANSETT

Animal lovers should beeline it to this museum’s Living History Farm, especially when chicks are hatching in early July. Rhode Island Reds are the state’s official bird, and these amber f luff balls are part of an effort to march the breed back to its heritage form.

Playful goats and sheep compete with the flock for attention. southcountymuseum.org

TRAVEL NOTE Before setting out to visit any of our Best of New England winners, please contact them or check online for updates on hours and operations this summer.

OUTDOOR FLEA MARKET GENERAL STANTON INN FLEA, CHARLESTOWN

Held on the grounds of a stately 1667 inn, this

England on the cusp of industrialization. coggeshallfarm.org PUBLIC GOLF COURSE NEWPORT NATIONAL, MIDDLETOWN

Since the Arthur Hills–designed Orchard Course opened in 2002, it has remained at or near the top of New England’s most popular golfing destinations. Because of the ocean views and the constantly shifting winds off the bay, players compare the experience of playing here to the famous courses of Ireland and Scotland. newportnational.com PYO FRUIT FARM SWEET BERRY FARM, MIDDLETOWN

Grown using predominantly natural means of pest control, fruits hand-harvested at Sweet Berry Farm have the exceptional appearance and flavor that befits a place that’s been a passion project and a land-preservation success story for more than 40 years. Strawberries ripen first, then summer raspberries, blueber-

ound ye ar-r ce for oi h ! c 1 d n k Isla Your # to Bloc se rvice

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ries, peaches, blackberries, fall raspberries, apples, and pumpkins. sweetberryfarmri.com

DINING

The Newport Home of Doris Duke

CITY PATIO DINING OBERLIN, PROVIDENCE

Strung with party lights and sheltered from Union Street by screens and potted plants, the new Oberlin patio has an impromptu, celebratory feel. It’s a testament to creativity, something amply represented in chef Ben Sukle’s Italian-inspired menu of crudos and elevated takes on the freshest summer vegetables. oberlinrestaurant.com CRAFT BREWERY TILTED BARN BREWERY, EXETER

Homegrown hops f lavor the beers at the state’s first-ever farm brewery, Tilted Barn, which recently expanded into a new postand-beam barn that houses a 30-barrel brewhouse and a tasting room with a large outdoor lawn, seating area, and patio. Grab a delectable fruity double IPA and drink in the serene setting. tiltedbarnbrewery.com

680 Bellevue Avenue Newport, RI 401–847–8344

newportrestoration.org/roughpoint

Free parking on-site Wheelchair accessible

FARM STAND WALKER’S ROADSIDE STAND, LITTLE COMPTON

At this sweet, seasonal roadside stand, the jewel-like vegetables are piled into wooden crates, big bouquets of vibrant dahlias are crowded into buckets, and it’s very hard to leave empty-handed. Even if you’re just passing through with no plans to cook, it’s still worth a stop to sample the brownies from the on-site bakery, or to grab a few pints of berries to eat at the beach. Facebook

It’s time for your #blockislandvacation

ICE CREAM STAND THE WRIGHT SCOOP, NORTH SMITHFIELD

Not only is the venue cool (a 1966 Streamline trailer), but the scoops are phenomenal: The milk and cream are sourced from cows steps away, the ice cream base is homemade, and trimmings from goods made in the onsite bakery are often folded into the final concoctions. thewrightscoopri.com LOBSTER SHACK NEWPORT LOBSTER SHACK, NEWPORT

Rhode Island’s seafood shacks tend to lean more “seafood-ecumenical” and less lobsterspecific. But the Lobster Shack is committed to its namesake, with a menu ranging from rolls, bisque, and more inventive fare like “lobster bites,” which are like clam cakes, only, you know…. newportlobstershack.com WINERY CAROLYN’S SAKONNET VINEYARD, LITTLE COMPTON

Winemaker Elaine Phipps and vineyard manager Lorraine Frank’s combined decades of experience are evident when you taste these white, red, rosé, and dessert wines. Sample

MAY | JUNE 2021

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IMAGE: ROSS DRAPER PHOTOGRAPHY

#blockisland bliss

#blockisland bonding BLOCKISLANDINFO.COM

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Edgewood Manor & Charles Newhall House

c1905 Greek Revival with 9 guest rooms and beautiful sitting rooms and gardens. a wonderful choice for a rhode island vacation or romantic getaway in providence.

RHODE ISLAND

flights at the cedar-shingled tasting room, or grab a table outside on the lawn and enjoy a bottle in the sun. sakonnetwine.com

LODGING FARM STAY LAVENDER WAVES FARM, SOUTH KINGSTOWN

Share your getaway with alpacas, white peacocks, and babydoll sheep when you book the lone suite at this fragrant private farm.

The space, which sleeps four, is styled with reclaimed-wood wallboard, beams, and furnishings; amethyst geode sinks; and picture windows that frame views of 4,000 lavender plants, arrayed in a sunburst around a gazebo. lavenderwavesfarm.com HOTEL ON THE BEACH WEEKAPAUG INN, WESTERLY

The Most Luxurious Providence Bed and Breakfast 232 norwood avenue | providence, ri | 401 • 781 • 0099

Take A Bite Out Of Rhode Island!

Brisk waves or still water? Vacation dilemma solved when you choose the refined yet casual Weekapaug Inn on Quonochontaug Pond, where 35 watercraft stand ready for guests’ use. Follow the scent of the sea over the bridge and down a path to the property’s private Atlantic beach, and cherish the lightness of knowing chairs, umbrellas, towels, drinks, and food await you. weekapauginn.com HOTEL PORCH OCEAN HOUSE, WATCH HILL

On the Verandah, with a drink and a plate of glistening local oysters, croquet action below, milky-blue ocean in view, you’ve found the New England hallmarks of perfection. From the little things—like lobster rolls your way, hot or cold—to the monumental elements of historic character, visual splendor, and worldclass service, the sweet life is here for even lunch-only visitors. oceanhouseri.com LAKESIDE CAMPGROUND BOWDISH LAKE CAMPING AREA, WEST GLOCESTER

On the western edge of the state, not far from the Connecticut border, Bowdish Lake feels more like summer camp than a campground.

The large lake and a small pond allow for swimming, boating, and fishing, but also expect darts, wagon rides, artistic offerings at the Red Craft House, ice cream socials, and a genuine feeling of being part of a welcoming community. bowdishlake.com WILDERNESS LODGE THE PRESERVE SPORTING CLUB, RICHMOND

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The Ocean State is half forested, and a luxury sporting lodge—the sort you’d expect to find out west—hides in the midst of 3,500 of those wooded acres. Full-kitchen suites have just been added to the array of lodgings for overnighters, enticed here by a multitude of on-property activities: fishing, golfing, shooting sports, tennis, swimming, biking, ziplining, spa-going. preservesportingclub.com

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BEST OF NEW ENGL AND

MAINE ATTRACTIONS DRIVE-IN THEATER SACO DRIVE-IN, SACO

Located a mere 20 minutes from Portland, the state’s first drive-in theater is still going strong. Visitors kick back among the trees at this 1939 single-screen standby, which hosts new releases, old favorites like The Goonies, and the occasional quirky treat, such as a screening of The Hunchback of Notre Dame set to music from one of the oldest working municipal pipe organs in the U.S., Portland’s own Kotzschmar Organ. thesacodrivein.com FARM ANIMAL FUN MAPLE CREST FARM, HERMON

Cancer recovery, love, and serendipity have all played roles in this manicured farm’s adoption story. From one donkey, Garry and Trish Martin’s collection of rescues has grown to include 27 alpacas, four mini donkeys, four goats, two horses, nearly 40 sheep, peacocks,

pheasants, and innumerable chickens. On nocharge, pre-booked tours, families can help with feeding and other chores, learn about solar-powered living, and meet the newborns at this little piece of heaven. maplecrestfarm.me OUTDOOR FLEA MARKET MONTSWEAG FLEA MARKET, WOOLWICH

While Maine’s Route 1 is not short on roadside eateries and attractions, it’s worth keeping your eyes peeled for this one. Actually, it’s hard to miss: At the height of summer the biggest flea market in Midcoast Maine boasts roughly 100 vendors, who pile their outdoor tables with collectibles and yard sale miscellany. Need another reason to pull over? ParkTRAVEL NOTE Before setting out to visit any of our Best of New England winners, please contact them or check online for updates on hours and operations this summer.

ing and admission are free. Wednesdays and weekends May to October. Facebook OUTDOOR MUSEUM LANGLAIS SCULPTURE PRESERVE, CUSHING

Maine native Bernard “Blackie” Langlais created over 3,500 “wood paintings,” as he called his sculptures and carved reliefs, before he passed away in 1977 at age 56. Encounter a dozen of these massive works, including a life-size elephant, on the artist’s former homestead, now a Georges River Land Trust property. If they pique your interest, seek out more Langlais pieces in 50-plus other settings along Maine’s Langlais Art Trail. georgesriver.org PUBLIC GOLF COURSE BELGRADE LAKES GOLF CLUB, BELGRADE LAKES

When Maine philanthropist Harold Alfond hired British golf course architect Clive Clark to transform 240 acres in the Belgrade Lakes

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Region into an 18-hole course, he said, “Anyone can build a clubhouse, but not everyone has this”—and he opened his arms to take in the stunning view of lakes and forest. Alfond also said he wanted a golf club “to be open to everyone,” so here the emphasis remains on golfers from around the country who have put this Golf Digest five-star course on their bucket list. Bonus: Your pooch is welcome to keep you company on the links. belgradelakesgolf.com

that your Adventure Zip Line Tour would begin with a giant lobster trap climb. Your friendly flight crew will put you at ease as you whiz between platforms on a series of six lines.

Added challenges will wobble your knees and whet your appetite for even more adrenalineboosting bonding experiences on the park’s 65-plus other swinging, swaying, balancetesting rope elements. takeflightadv.com

the Thirsty Pig. Now, Noah and Peter Bissell run their namesake brewery and taproom at Thompson’s Point in Portland, as well as a second brewery, Bissell Brothers Three Rivers, in their rural hometown of Milo. Start with the tropical IPAs, but don’t overlook the highly original barrel-aged saisons like Fire Road and creamy oatmeal stouts like Umbra. bissellbrothers.com

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FARM STAND JORDAN’S FARM, CAPE ELIZABETH

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High-bush blueberries are a wonder crop at this 40-acre family fruit farm, which also grows summer and fall raspberries, peaches, and apples. Through late October, long after other farms’ blueberry seasons are kaput, you’ll still find deep-blue clusters of these antioxidant-rich berries to pick. Visit on weekends, when you might hear live music wafting through the fields, and you can get some extra vitamin C from fresh-fruit smoothies and homemade fruit doughnuts. libbysonupicks.com

Set against a Technicolor two-story mural, the back patio at Chaval has served as an open-air dining room in the summer and a greenhouse village during the colder months. Whatever the setup, it’s a perfect spot for enjoying the Spanish and French stylings of chef-owners Ilma Lopez and Damian Sansonetti. Carnivores flock here for the famous Chaval burger, but seafood lovers will find plenty of local catch on the menu. chavalmaine.com

Before Cape Elizabeth became known as a well-to-do bedroom community of Portland, it was largely farmland. Jordan’s Farm put down roots here in 1948, and the familyrun farm stand has only grown over the years.

Jordan’s is known for its sweet corn, but that’s only a fraction of what it sells; an expansive selection of vegetables, fields of cut-your-own flowers, and locally raised and harvested meat and fish are also available. jordansfarm.com ICE CREAM STAND BRESCA & THE HONEYBEE, NEW GLOUCESTER

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acclaimed Maine chef Krista Kern Desjarlais makes a firm commitment to using milk and cream from nearby dairy farms, a dedication that pays off in the finest, freshest ice cream possible. While grabbing a cone, visitors can also opt to use the boating, tubing, or picnicking facilities at nearby Outlet Beach. brescaandthehoneybee.com LAKE-VIEW DINING BLAIR HILL INN, GREENVILLE

Set on 80 lush acres with a commanding view of Moosehead Lake, Blair Hill Inn is one of only two Maine properties that belong to Relais & Châteaux, the international association of luxury hotels and restaurants.

The 10-guestroom mansion serves breakfast daily and dinner to guests five nights a week and opens to the public for dinner each Thursday, Friday, and Saturday. The sixcourse menu changes throughout the season (May to November) and is peppered with ingredients sourced from the inn’s own gardens. blairhill.com

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With an absolutely gorgeous location on Goose Cove, Aragosta is one of Maine’s most beautiful restaurants, and chef-owner Devin Finigan composes every plate like a work of art. As befits a restaurant in some of the world’s most fertile fishing grounds, the menu changes frequently: One week, lobster might fill a ravioli; the next, it could be a garnish for a spring pea soup. Whatever is on the menu, though, it’s always delightful. aragostamaine.com

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Maine boasts so many legitimately great lobster shacks that choosing just one is nearly impossible, but factoring in both the food and the views, we return again and again to this picture-perfect cove-side shack where the lobster for your steamed dinner is pulled fresh from the dock and the terrific rolls come with butter, mayo, or a combination of both. Don’t miss the roast clams appetizer or, for dessert, the homemade pies. mcloonslobster.com

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WINERY OYSTER RIVER WINEGROWERS, WARREN

Forgot stuffy tasting rooms: From June through September, visitors are invited to visit Oyster River’s post-and-beam barn to purchase a bottle to take home or to drink on-site (ask about the Wednesday pizza nights). The natural wines, made with Maine-grown organic fruit and precious little intervention from the winemaker, are shockingly good. The Morphos sparkling wine is especially quaffable, so stock up when you go. oysterriverwine.com

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LODGING COASTAL CAMPGROUND HERMIT ISLAND CAMPGROUND, PHIPPSBURG

Located on a private island, this familyowned 271-site campground has been luring ocean-loving campers since 1952. If you crave a water view, check the map and try to book one of the Ocean Prime sites. Even if you’re bunking down in the forest, though, it’s an easy walk to the water to swim, sail, kayak, and fish. hermitisland.com FARM STAY TODDY POND FARM, MONROE

Weeklong summer stays in the pond-view, three-bedroom cottage at this 500-acre-plus farm will place you amid cows and sheep … and on a path to discovering a Maine-led trend toward sustainable farming. Help with morning chores; cook with produce, meats, and cheeses from the farm store; forage for blueberries; loll away hours on the screened porch.

By your final evening by the fire pit, you’ll feel utterly unwound. toddypondfarm.com HOTEL ON THE BEACH INN BY THE SEA, CAPE ELIZABETH

You’ll feel a childlike heart-thump of anticipation with each step along the boardwalk as

you descend through native vegetation to the vanilla sands of Crescent Beach. This woodplanked pathway to the ocean is a favorite amenity of Inn by the Sea, which is known for its groundbreaking green initiatives, coastal spa experiences, exquisitely prepared seafood, and dog-friendliness. (Speaking of which, leashed pooches can join in the beach fun in the off-season.) innbythesea.com HOTEL PORCH CAPE ARUNDEL INN & RESORT, KENNEBUNKPORT

The scene of many champagne moments, the front porch at this Ocean Avenue resort’s Victorian main building is a favorite spot for overnight and dinner guests alike. Away from the bustle of Kennebunkport’s Dock Square, its white wicker chairs can be turned toward the wind-fluttered American flag flying over the Bush family’s summer compound on Walker’s Point or angled so that almost all you’ll see is wavy ocean and wide sky. capearundelinn.com ISLAND INN CHEBEAGUE ISLAND INN, CHEBEAGUE ISLAND

Here is a century-old inn that embodies everything one desires in an island escape: a strikingly lovely porch facing west to the bay; dinners that become island-wide events for

tasting and socializing; easy access to tennis courts and a nine-hole golf course; and free use of bicycles to roam the 3.5-mile-long island. chebeagueislandinn.com RV PARK SEARSPORT SHORES, SEARSPORT

“Located right on Route 1 … no windy dirt roads, no tight turns”—could anything be more musical to the ears of weary rig drivers? But easy access is just the opener in this 40-acre campground’s bid for your affections.

It ups the ante with 125 RV/tent sites, trailer and cabin rentals, kayak rentals, nature trails, lobster bakes, a quarter mile of private beach, and a small friendly flock of sheep and goats. maineoceancamping.com WILDERNESS LODGE ATTEAN LAKE LODGE, JACKMAN

From the time your boat captain deposits you at this island outpost, where vacationers have retreated since 1893, your agenda will be far from ordinary. Paddle to uninhabited isles, hook a salmon, pick blueberries on a mountaintop, hike crowd-free trails, put more than one lobster on your plate, bonfire-toast marshmallows, and snuggle up in your gas-lamp-lit cottage to read until loons’ calls induce sleep. atteanlodge.com

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Going Wide (Continued from p. 92) would be overkill for the paved sections, most cyclists opt for gravel riders.

Interest in the xNHAT has been growing. In the two years since she began marketing the ride, Borowski has mailed out more than 2,000 maps—to people as far away as Alaska and France—and distributed some 200 patches. To talk with her is to immediately notice the kind of responsibility she feels for the well-being of the trail and those who use it. When an elderly woman decided to walk the xNHAT over the course of several days, Borowski did sections of it with her. She rode parts of the trail with an older gentleman during his quest to complete it. And she’s played support crew for others who’ve used the course as a virtual event during Covid or as a part of an unofficial triathlon circuit.

During our ride, Borowski joined us on a stretch of rail trail from Gorham to Randolph. As we rode, she made mental notes on sections that needed improving and talked about her long-term goal of extending the journey deeper into Maine so that it could link to the East Coast Greenway, a route that runs all the way to Florida (“Imagine all that connectivity!” she beamed).

“I want people to really see what we have up here, and cycletourism is a way for people to do that,” Borowski said. “I think it could give the towns a nice boost, and I’m hoping that as this grows and becomes more popular, we can give something to each of the communities on the trail.

“This area was made for this kind of thing. It’s not overly crowded, but there’s all this natural beauty. You bike for a bit, stop in a town, explore it, stop in a shop, maybe get something to eat. If it’s the end of the day, you can camp. Then you push on.”

trips have greatly elevated bikepacking as a form of travel in recent years, sees the experience of a trail like the xNHAT as a counter to the thrill-seeking and bucket-list social sharing that have come to define much of adventure tourism.

“What I look for in a good cycling route is that it has its own story,” says Cruz, who has designed several bikepacking routes in New England, including the Green Mountain Growler, a 248-mile loop that connects 13 breweries. “It feels like it has its own rhythm and narrative, and in that story you can achieve a kind of harmony with the place, its history and its culture. There’s an alignment between you and what’s around you.”

It might sound lofty, but I like to think we attained some of that. Sometimes we rode as a group, chatting about our jobs, our kids, or the upcoming election. Other times we were spaced out in a single-file line, lost in our own thoughts or in the scenery.

On a beautifully straight stretch of trail in Randolph, I imagined what it must be like in June, when both sides of the road are awash in lupines. At the former bottle plant in Gorham, we walked the overgrown grounds that had once teemed with factory life. On certain solitary stretches, my friend Brian f ired up a Bluetooth speaker he’d placed in one of his bottle cages and gave our ride a soundtrack. Each night, we jumped into a pond or a pool with a kind of reckless abandon, happy about the miles we’d covered and relieved to clean off some of the day’s grime. Were we four middle-aged men on a long weekend or were we re-creating something out of Stand by Me? It was hard to tell.

But there was also another factor at play. It was midAugust, and we were five months into the pandemic. For nearly half a year we’d been navigating a life of masks, video calls, and a locked routine of restricted motion. And then, for three short days, we got to scrap that existence. A certain serendipity was allowed to re-enter our lives. Among the rivers and mountains and all the greenery, the world looked beautiful and felt hopeful again.

Our last real stop came at the Bath Country Store, where we took a seat on the porch and dove into sandwiches and ice cream. We were just five miles from Woodsville, where our cars were parked and where another kind of journey would soon begin. I wasn’t ready to go back. In fact, I would have been more than happy to continue our ride for another few days. I thought about saying as much to the other guys. But I don’t think I needed to.

“A good cycling route has its own story, its own rhythm and narrative, and in that story you can achieve a kind of harmony with the place, its history and its culture.”

YOU DON’T HAVE TO SLEEP IN A TENT when you bike the xNHAT. There are inns or hotels in most of the communities it passes through, as well as a newer glamping destination in Gorham, Hub North. But if you’ve got the fortitude for setting up camp at the end of a long ride, it’s worth the effort. It keeps you in the routine of the experience. What you have is exactly what you’ve packed. And what you want to pack on a bike is very little.

This kind of forced minimalism adds to what Joe Cruz, a Williams College philosophy professor and noted bikepacker, calls the “embodiment of your presence” that comes when you’re on a bike. Cruz, whose writings and documented 142 |

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For more information on the Cross New Hampshire Adventure Trail, go to xnhat.org.

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Living Single in a Retirement Community

M

any people assume that retirement communities are built for couples.

But you may be surprised to learn that nearly half of Edgewood Retirement Community’s residents are either widowed, divorced or single-by-choice. If you find yourself in one of these categories, you owe it to yourself to consider your retirement living options and find out how living in a community could help you live a longer, healthier, happier life.

According to Pew Research, almost 19 million Americans over age 60 live alone.

This fact has led to volumes of research studying the effects of social isolation and loneliness, both of which are risk factors for conditions such as a weakened immune system, heart disease, high blood pressure, obesity, anxiety, depression, cognitive decline and Alzheimer’s disease.

But the news is not all bad. Research cited by the National Institute on Aging** has also shown that “people who engage in meaningful, productive activities with others tend to live longer, boost their mood, and have a sense of purpose. These activities seem to help maintain their well-being and may improve their cognitive function.”

THE NOT-SO-SECRET BENEFITS OF LIVING IN A COMMUNITY WHEN YOU’RE ON YOUR OWN: New friends around every corner.

Many people compare moving into a retirement community to moving into a college dorm. You’ll find a diverse group of people who share similar generational

experiences and who are always interested in making new friends. Plus, a full calendar of activities and events will help you stay as busy and involved as you want to be while also introducing you to people with similar interests.

All the privacy you want, when you want it. This is where the college dorm comparison ends. With your own private residence, you’ll have all the privacy and alone-time you want, whenever you want it. And, while you’ll never run out of fun and interesting things to do, you’ll never be forced to do anything. You’ll live your life on your own schedule, knowing your autonomy is always respected.

A built-in network of support.

At a retirement community, there’s always a helping hand when you need one.

Whether it’s a friend to talk to, a nurse to check on you when you’re under the weather (and a chef to send you soup), a maintenance person to change a lightbulb, or a personal trainer to help you stay fit, you’ll have an entire team of people looking out for you.

Financial predictability and peace of mind. LifeCare Communities provide financial predictability and priceless peace of mind in knowing that, as your needs change, you’ll be able to receive the assistance and care you need right on our campus. Your family and friends will never be faced with having to find care or a place in a community during a crisis situation.

Take advantage of a great value.

While a one-bedroom apartment home might feel a little too cozy for a couple, people living solo in a retirement community often find that this type of home delivers a lot of bang for the buck. That’s because, even though you may choose a smaller floor plan, you’ll still have full access to everything the community has to offer — from helpful services that make your life easier and more convenient, to an array of amenities that are all included in your monthly fee.

Plus, when you consider common spaces such as community living areas and dining venues, game rooms, classrooms, an art studio and gallery, computer lab, library, and even individual resident garden beds, you’ll find that your home is much more than the square footage of your apartment.

A home for your furry friend, too.

Research has clearly demonstrated the health benefits of having a pet, and Edgewood welcomes your furry, feathered or finned friends to join you.

There’s so much more to community life than we could describe in this article. We invite you to discover Edgewood, the Merrimack Valley’s only LifeCare Community, and see how our community can add more life to your years. To learn more and to see available floor plans, call us at 978-965-3715 or visit our website at EdgewoodRC.com.

Edgewood Retirement Community | 575 Osgood Street, North Andover, MA 01845 | EdgewoodRC.com | 978-965-3715 Sources:“Older people are more likely to live alone in the U.S. than elsewhere in the world.” Pew Research Center, March 10, 2020. “Social isolation, loneliness in older people pose health risks.” National Institute on Aging, April 23, 2019.

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3/18/21 5:26 PM

(Continued from p. 97) other people expecting lower of them or expecting them not to be able to do something because of the color of their skin, the shape of their body, or their gender.

I.A.: Does it get exhausting to have to

explain your presence all the time?

M.V.: Absolutely. People think they

know why I’m fat. Just this morning this bariatric surgery place messaged me: Hey, we’re doing a campaign on bariatric surgery, do you want to join?

I blocked them. There’s this constant messaging that we’re too fat, we’re too skinny, we’re too Black. We’re not worthy as we are. I’ve had enough experiences in all areas of my life that have taught me that those are just words from people who are dealing with their own limited experiences with people, and I just have to keep soldiering on because I don’t have any choice.

I.A.: How has this shown up on

the trail?

M.V.: I was at Hunger Mountain not that long ago. I know the route because I’ve done it many times. There were these people, white, they’re always white, who were trying to get around me. There’s a trail that branches off and goes nowhere. They pushed past me and got on that trail.

And they just had this all-knowing attitude, like they knew exactly where they were going. I’m slow, and they eventually caught back up with me and said, “That trail goes nowhere.” I was like, “I was wondering where you were going.” So, there are just those little moments.

But then there are also those moments when people realize I know what I’m doing. I have the right gear on. They will ask me for help. I love those moments when I can be the sage, the person who knows stuff. I don’t get that a lot. But when I do it’s really cool.

148 |

YK0521_FEA_Conversation_Mirna.indd 148

“I had an amazing childhood.

In Brooklyn. In an urban area.

It was an outdoor childhood. But nobody in mainstream culture sees it as such. I’d like to change that narrative.”

I.A.: But what you experienced that

day on Hunger Mountain reveals who many people expect to see on a trail.

What are the consequences of that?

M.V.: We only have just a few images of who is expected to participate in those very specific outdoor activities that are a part of this American outdoor image. That erases other outdoor experiences that aren’t a part of climbing Mount Everest or Denali, or kayaking Class V rapids—those sorts of expeditions.

I.A.: You mean the “conquering”

aspect of nature.

M.V.: Right. And who are the risk

takers? They’re usually white males.

When National Geographic named me one of its 2018 Adventurers of the Year, I was like, me? I don’t climb those big mountains. I haven’t done anything in Nepal. I’m not Sir Hillary. That’s how this culture has been built.

My outdoors was the streets of Brooklyn. In the summers we were kicked out of the apartment in the morning and told, “Don’t come back until dinner.” We were outside all day, entertaining ourselves, gaining confidence and learning how to be social with other people. And so I had an amazing childhood. In Brooklyn.

In an urban area. It was an outdoor childhood. But nobody in mainstream culture sees it as such. I’d like to change that narrative.

I.A.: You recently posted on Instagram

about a message that another hiker

sent you about how she had issues with your geotagging the places you hiked in Vermont. What about that struck a nerve?

M.V.: It was this typical I love what you do. I’ve followed you for a number of years. I’m so glad you’re in Vermont.

But. Can you stop geotagging your hikes, because these are our local trails? You have thousands of followers and you’re opening up the trails to all these new people. I immediately thought, Gatekeeping.

That’s what this is. You don’t want other people on these trails.

Before I responded, I did a lot of research on the effects of geotagging.

I didn’t want to come from an angry place. I know what the intention is, but the intention doesn’t matter.

Your impact on someone else’s experience is what matters. The effect her words had on me was very, very negative and very sort of silencing.

I want to be the person that people see and say, If Mirna can get herself to a trail, I can do that too. Or, Maybe I can ask her for help.

I don’t see any Black people on the trail here. That’s normal. I’m used to it. But this person was concerned that I was bringing more people to her trail. Which was the Long Trail.

I.A.: It’s pretty well known.

M.V.: I even said that. And so the

question in my head: What is she really saying?

I.A.: I once wrote a story for Yankee

about beach privatization in New England. One beachfront owner in Maine thought it was important to keep these spaces available to the public because the only way they could be protected is if more people felt a personal connection to them. You seem to be saying the same thing.

M.V.: I love seeing when trails are crowded. It means people are craving these experiences. I remember maybe a month into Covid I was seeing people on the trails throughout the week, and it was magical. When people have these experiences, they have to depend on themselves, and NEWENGLAND.COM

3/12/21 10:45 AM

COURTESY OF MIRNA VALERIO

Conversations

Valerio on the trail to Mount Hunger, the first mountain she summited in Vermont. “I am deeply appreciative of all of my mountains, big and small, craggy and smooth, ancient and new,” she once wrote. “[They] have taught me all I need to know.”

myself, a Black person or a fat person, running like that. I want to do that.

I.A.: What’s next for you?

M.V.: Well, I think my time is limited

for sponsorships. I think the “Mirna moment” is going to be over at some point, and I have to be prepared for it.

I.A.: Does that scare you?

M.V.: I think it would have scared me

two years ago. But I know I’ve been given a gift and I’m trying to use it to the best of my ability—not just for myself and my family, but I’m trying to build wealth. Because we have no intergenerational wealth in my family. None whatsoever. Nobody owns anything, and so I want to buy property here in Vermont and build a retreat compound that focuses on Black joy and Black mental health and wellness. I want to build a property outdoors that focuses on that. I don’t know how I’m going to do it, but that’s my one long-term plan right now.

Part of me also wants to write a Black parenting book using my outdoor adventures as metaphors. I feel like Black people need something else in the parenting literature. We don’t have anything that doesn’t come from trauma. So I want to write something uplifting.

COURTESY OF MIRNA VALERIO

they come back with a newfound appreciation for that experience and for that land.

I.A.: Have you heard from people who

are inspired by what you’re doing?

M.V.: All the time. I got a message

yesterday from a woman who saw me on Access Hollywood, another Black woman who lives in southern Vermont. She said, I hope I don’t sound like a psycho but I’d really love

MAY | JUNE 2021

YK0521_FEA_Conversation_Mirna.indd 149

I.A.: Why is it important that you

to go hiking with you because I never see anybody and it’s never felt real to me that there are other Black people who do this. I wrote back, I know this feeling.

Period. I concur.

Then I’ll hear things like, I didn’t think anyone with my body type can run. And then I see you’re like running up mountains. Well, at least I can try to run down the block. Or other people are like, You’re so graceful when you’re running on those trails. I never saw

build your retreat in Vermont?

M.V.: I love this place. I do. This is

where I need to be. And I’ve never felt that way about a place. My son is so happy here. And my mom and my sister love it up here. I’m heavily invested in this idea of creating a space, in a place where I’ve made my home, for people like me who are trail runners.

To learn more about Mirna Valerio, go to themirnavator.com. | 149

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Life in the Kingdom (Continued from p. 156) insemination, having been a dairy farmer for much of his 60-ish years. He even kept a tank of semen in his milking parlor, and offered us our choice of breeds. I’m pretty sure we chose Angus, thinking we’d raise the calf for the freezer.

What we didn’t know about Apple— what we couldn’t have known—was that despite her gentleness with humans and other adult cattle, she was entirely unsuited to mothering. So unsuited, in fact, that she actually stomped her first calf to death before I was able to intervene. Once more we chose a course of action that in hindsight seems imbued with naïveté, if not downright hubris: We bred her again.

Predictably, Apple never became a contender for mother of the year.

Although we saved her subsequent offspring from the horrendous fate of that first calf, it’s only because we were

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Anyone in their right minds would have sent Apple packing. Infanticide is simply not a tenable trait in a species whose primary purpose is to produce offspring. Yet in every other way, she was exemplary. She was exceedingly tolerant of the boys, who would sometimes splay themselves across the broad expanse of her back as she lay basking in the pasture. She suffered no health issues, and thrived on a grain-free diet.

And her milk was like nothing I’d ever seen: A half-gallon jar of milk yielded a full quart of cream so thick that once it set up in the fridge overnight, it would not pour from a wide-mouth Mason jar.

So we kept at it, year after year after year, until it became apparent that Apple was getting past her prime. Or maybe we were getting past ours. Those nights of half-sleep in the barn while

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awaiting the arrival of her calf, and then the frantic scurry to snatch the poor little thing out from under her, started feeling a bit too much.

This would have been the second time that any real farmer would’ve put Apple on a truck, bound for auction, or simply put her down and stuck her in the freezer. But this was a cow who’d allowed our toddler sons to lie on her back. She’d given us nine calves, innumerable gallons of milk, pounds of butter, quarts of yogurt. For a dozen years, barely a day had passed that I hadn’t stood with her for a few minutes, scratching her favorite spots, like the one at the base of her tail. She’d let me scratch until my fingers ached.

This was a girl who’d earned a comfortable retirement, and so a comfortable retirement is what she got.

One morning I found her lying on her side. It was cold, and she was shaking. I don’t know how long she’d been lying there, but it’d probably been hours. A friend helped us get her back on her feet, and she seemed fine. She was eating and drinking and walking around as usual, and we chalked it up to a f luke. Until it happened again, just a few days later, and this time, no amount of prodding would get her off the ground. I got the tractor and tried to hoist her up with the bucket loader, but she was having none of it. She wasn’t distressed; she just sat there, slowly chewing her cud, looking at us through those enormous eyes. Truth is, I think she knew it was time.

When you keep livestock for any length of time, you’re committing to kill. Oh, sure, you can delegate the act itself, but don’t kid yourself: You’re still implicated. It’s still your responsibility. It’s really just a question of whose finger is on the trigger. In our 20 years of living with animals, I’ve had my finger on the trigger, and I’ve paid others to have their finger on the trigger, and though it’s difficult no matter what, I guess for me it’s harder to hire it done.

So we sat there for a while with Apple, saying our good-byes, knowing the truth of what we had to do.

But wanting to put it off for just a few minutes more.

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3/15/21 4:13 PM

Life in the Kingdom

|

BEN HEWIT T

A Cow Named Apple Sometimes, animals that prove hard to keep can be even harder to let go.

ILLUSTR ATION BY

TOM H AUGOM AT

ver the past two decades, we’ve kept company with more animals that I can count. Chickens, pigs, sheep, ducks, and, of course, our small herd of cows, never fewer than two, and only occasionally more than five. I love keeping animals, but such a statement can’t come close to expressing what it truly means to care for livestock, nor the species-specific aspects of my affections. For instance, chickens, which I love to eat but don’t particularly enjoy caring for, and which continually vex me in their defenselessness: 156 |

YK0521_BOB_Kingdom.indd 156

Once a coon or a weasel gets whiff of your f lock, you’re in for carnage and sleeplessness. Last summer, Penny and I passed a full month taking turns sleeping in a tent alongside our meat birds to protect them from a family of hungry raccoons.

The livestock I love most is cows.

Cows embody the qualities I’m continually striving for but which always seem dispiritingly beyond my reach.

They are the least complaining of the creatures we’ve kept; equanimity is a defining bovine characteristic, with only rare exceptions relating to failures

in my husbandry (if I’m late with their morning hay, for instance). Generally speaking, if you keep a cow in feed and water, you’ve got a happy cow, come rain, sleet, wind, or sun. I suppose the same could be said of pigs, but to me, there’s an undercurrent of malcontent with even the most amenable hog, as if it’s just waiting for you to turn your back before it charges through the fence and into the woods on a multiday escapade. Maybe it’s those beady porcine eyes.

We got our first cows when Penny was eight months pregnant with our second son, Rye. It was a motherdaughter pair, with the mother having given birth nine weeks earlier, and arriving with the expectation of being milked twice daily. The hubris was stunning, really: to think we deemed ourselves capable of taking on so much at once. A new large animal species, a daily milking routine, and, oh yeah, almost forgot, a second newborn child.

Today it seems laughable, even foolish. It is also one of the most rewarding decisions we ever made.

We named the heifer calf Apple. I can’t remember how we settled on that name, but I suspect our son Fin—who was not quite 3 at the time—had something to do with it. She was a lively little beast, a Jersey-Devon cross with coltish energy and uncommonly enormous eyes that, owl-like, seemed capable of seeing in all directions at once.

Apple grew into a fine yearling, and when the time came, we had our neighbor Melvin breed her. Melvin was well practiced in the art of artificial (Continued on p. 154) NEWENGLAND.COM

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