September 1994 the monthly newsletter for people who live, work or play on the Upper Mississippi River ¡
Canoeing the Big River By Reggie McLeod
Vol. 2, No. 9
$2
To Catch a Point Eddy, Stay Inside the Curve -
Piloting a Paddlewheeler on the Mississippi River By Pamela Eyden
Many great canoeing rivers flow into the Upper ,.--
Mississippi. The Cannon, Chippewa, Zumbro, Whitewater, Trempealeau, Black, Root, Upper Iowa and Wisconsin Rivers all float canoe-loads of happy paddlers from early summer to late fall, but many end their canoe trips where I like to begin mine, in the Mississippi River. There are good reasons for canoeists to avoid the Mississippi - barges, houseboats, giant cabin cruisers and water skiers - but on weekdays during the fall you can have the whole river to yourself. And, when the light of the setting sun falls on the steep wooded bluffs, the autumn leaves light up in incandescent colors you'll never see anywhere else. Time stops as you rest your paddle across the gunwales, drift in the lazy current, empty your mind and let yourself be filled with the moment. Even in summer the Mississippi River is a great place to canoe. Much of the river consists of backwaters so shallow that you can touch bottom with your paddle. The big boats
Even the bass boats get stuck in some of the backwaters where a canoe can go. pretty much stay on the Main Channel, and even the bass boats get stuck in some of the backwaters where a canoe can go. Immediately below most of the dams are incredible
(Canoeing continued on page 4)
People dream of working on riverboats, but their dreams don't make good maps of the reality. Lured by romance, the size of the ships and the sound of the whistle, they run aground on routines, confinement and stress. "Some people jump ship in the middle of their first cruise," said Dick Karnath, pilot of the Mississippi Queen and Delta Queen steamships. "It's a demanding life. Not for everybody." A tall, lean man of 50 years, Karnath retains some of the dignity of a ship's officer, even dressed in jeans and a T-shirt at home in Winona on a Saturday morning. He seems wary of people's romantic ideas about the river, especially ideas about river pilots from reading Mark Twain.
(Paddlewheeler continued on page 2)