Delamination defeated
Pressure-relieving insoles
New research on diabetic foot syndrome
What sets soling leather apart?
Special theme: Soles & insoles
Keen Targhee IV hiking footwear in a bison-beaujolais colour combination, from the brand’s collection for women for spring-summer 2025. See our article on this product to learn why a soling innovation Keen has used here won it a place in the list of Time ‘Best Inventions’ of 2024.
CREDIT: KEEN
Editor
Stephen Tierney
Deputy editor
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Consultant editor
David Buirski
Contributors
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Design
Tim Button
Global sales manager
Mat Abbott
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Subscriptions manager
John Collins
Publisher & CEO
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02 Global News
Highlights from around the world of footwear. For news on shoes every day, go to footwearbiz.com, the best news website in the business.
04 Footprints
People making an impact on the industry: designers, industry leaders and famous footwear lovers.
06 Industry & Innovation
Details of innovations from suppliers and service providers across the globe.
08 Backtrack
Headlines from footwearbiz.com, summing up the most recent developments in the global footwear sector.
MATERIALS, MANUFACTURING & INNOVATION
10 Delamination is done for Fusion, a new soling technique that outdoor footwear brand Keen has developed, spells defeat for delamination, which the brand describes as the enemy of durability.
13 Insoles for impact zones
Pressure-relieving insoles can help enhance comfort, reduce injury risk and improve athletic performance.
20 Natural choice
Sustainability, durability and repairability make vegetable-tanned leather a lastingly good option for outsoles.
16 Toes on the pulse
Footwear fitted with pulse-emitters can be an effective treatment for diabetic foot syndrome.
22 Automation at last The use of automation in direct-injection processes demands extra precision in the lasts manufacturers use, Framas argues.
24 Second-life goals
UK-based designer Helen Kirkum has moved some of her production to Portugal in the pursuit of making circular, sustainable sneakers. 26 Back to natural Rubber specialist Yulex has its eye on the footwear sector, saying non-fossil raw materials are of interest to more and more brands.
A move by the French parliament to reduce value-added tax on shoe repairs should give a lift to the specialist craftspeople who carry out these services.
ADVERTISER’S INDEX
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Global news
France Figures from Alliance France Cuir put the value of the country’s footwear exports in the first ten months of last year at almost €4.6 billion, flat compared to the same period in 2023. Over the same period, French leathergoods manufacturers brought in export revenues of €10.7 billion, an increase of 3% year on year. Handbags made up almost €7.7 billion of the total, up by 4% compared to the January-October period in 2023.
UK Footwear retail group Shoe Zone has said increased staff costs and weak consumer confidence have led to a decision to close some of its stores. Its current financial year began in late September 2024. It said trading conditions in October, November and the first half of December had been “very challenging”. It blamed a government budget, announced in October, for its predicament. It said in a trading update in December that it was planning the closure of “a number of stores that have now become unviable”.
Brazil US fashion brand Cinq à Sept has launched its first footwear collection, with 12 designs including sling-backs, satin heels, ballerina pumps and espadrilles. The collection is designed in New York and manufactured in Brazil. Co-founder of the brand Jane Siskin said the shoes were “on trend but not trendy, always feminine, a little sexy and always timeless”. She said the brand was bringing something different to the marketplace.
Belgium Footwear brand Skechers is set to relocate its European distribution centre to a larger facility in Liège by 2028. The new 200,000-square-metre logistics centre is designed to enhance shipping capacity and operational efficiency to support the company’s growth across the continent. Located near Liège airport and major transport routes, the new facility will help Skechers optimise its supply chain and is expected to create additional job opportunities in the region and further strengthen its distribution capabilities in the European market.
Sweden Co-chief executives of outdoor footwear brand Icebug, David Ekelund and Tom Nilsson, will represent western Sweden at the national Entrepreneur of the Year competition. The two were named as joint-winners for western Sweden in the regional round of the event, which is organised by professional services firm EY. The final will take place in Stockholm in March. “We are excited for the next round of the competition and hope to inspire young entrepreneurs to build sustainable business models,” Mr Nilsson said.
Spain The Spanish leather and footwear industry experienced a decline in 2024, losing 2,567 jobs, a 6.2% reduction compared to December 2023. By the end of the year, the sector employed 38,570 workers, marking an 11.2% decrease compared to December 2019, prior to the pandemic. This decline contrasts with the overall Spanish labour market, which added over 500,000 jobs in 2024 and achieved the lowest unemployment levels in 17 years.
Italy Italian footwear industry association Assocalzaturifici has said it expects the shoe sector in Italy to have a combined 2024 turnover of €13.2 billion. If accurate, this would represent a decline of 9.3% compared to the figure for 2023. Assocalzaturifici based its projection on a confirmed decline of 9.2% in the first nine months of last year. The organisation’s president, Giovanna Ceolini, said 60% of member companies had reported a decline in revenues at the end of the nine-month period. She added that one company in five had reported a decline in revenues of more than 20% year on year.
China Sports brand Li Ning has been named the official sportswear partner for the Chinese Olympic Committee. The brand founded in 1990 by gymnast Li Ning, himself a former Olympic champion, was the supplier of the Chinese teams from 1992 to 2004. Li Ning won six medals at the 1984 Summer Olympics in Los Angeles. He won three gold medals (in floor exercise, pommel horse, and rings), two silver medals, and one bronze medal.
US Wolverine Worldwide has opened a new 11,000-square-foot global Innovation Hub in downtown Boston. This facility will serve as a base for the company’s design and product teams, including members from Saucony’s design, development, and merchandising departments. CEO Chris Hufnagel remarked: “Boston offers exceptional design and footwear talent. This new hub will enable us to drive innovation and further transform Wolverine Worldwide into a consumer-focused builder of global brands.”
India Open-cell foam technology provider OrthoLite has expanded its facility in Ambur, Tamil Nadu. It has also opened a new sales office in the capital of that Indian state, Chennai. The project in Ambur has resulted in a capacity of 2 million pairs of insoles per month, three times more than before. OrthoLite said this increase in capacity makes its operation in India the largest insole manufacturer in South Asia. It first opened its Ambur factory in 2021. In 2023, Vikash Bajargyan took over as the new general manager of OrthoLite India.
Bangladesh Bangladesh’s Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) has reported growth of 10.4% in leather-sector exports in the first six months of the current financial year, July-December 2024. Industry exports achieved combined export revenues of $577.3 million. Finished leather exports fell in value by 11.6%, reaching $62.5 million. Leathergoods exports also declined over the six-month period, reaching $182.4 million in value, a fall of 11.1% year on year. But leather footwear exports increased in value by more than 30%, reaching $352.6 million.
Indonesia Global manufacturer of premium footwear components Stanbee has formed a partnership with PT Eco Mega Synergy to enhance the distribution of its products across Indonesia. PT Eco Mega Synergy supplies pigment masterbatch to leading footwear brands in Indonesia and expanded its operations in 2021 with a recycling centre in Brebes, Central Java. Its newly launched startup, PT Cahari Sukses Sejati, will serve as Stanbee’s official distributor, supplying waste-free heel counters and toe boxes to local factories.
Vietnam The Vietnam Leather, Footwear and Handbag Association (Lefaso) has projected that Vietnam’s footwear and leather industry will achieve export revenues of $26-$27 billion in 2024, reflecting a $3 billion increase from 2023. Lefaso said the industry in Vietnam had experienced a strong recovery since late 2023, with major companies securing contracts extending into mid-2025.
Cambodia The Cambodia Confederation of Investors Association (CCIA) has said footwear exports could increase by between 20% and 30% in 2025. Cambodia enjoys several free trade agreements and an established footwear manufacturing network. The country earned about $1.3 billion from shoe exports during the first 10 months of 2024. Around 155 footwear factories operate in Cambodia, employing 156,000 people.
Footprints
New general manager for Inescop
Spain-based footwear research and testing organisation Inescop has a new general manager, Dr Eduardo Calabuig Dr Calabuig began working at Inescop in 2006. He specialised in research on CAD/CAM technology until 2018, when he moved to lead the organisation’s advanced manufacturing division.
He has taken part in a wide range of research projects at regional, national and European level. Between 2019 and 2024, he also completed a doctorate in computer science at the University of Alicante.
As general manager of Inescop, he said he would make it a priority to stay close to footwear companies and create value for them “by transferring knowledge and technologies” to help “shape the future of the footwear industry”.
Change at the top for Assomac
Mauro Bergozza, CEO of Bergi S.p.A., has been elected president of Assomac, representing Italian tannery, footwear, and leather machinery manufacturers.
Succeeding Maria Vittoria Brustia, Mr Bergozza pledged to strengthen innovation, sustainability, and the “Made in Italy” brand to tackle global competition.
Cristiano Paccagnella of Omac S.r.l. was confirmed as vice president, while Massimo Angeleri of Officina Meccanica Angeleri S.r.l. was appointed as an additional vice president.
The €650 million sector, comprising 235 companies and 3,900 employees, recorded 36% of global exports in 2023, excelling in tannery (54%) and leather goods (51%) machinery. While exports grew slightly, geopolitical challenges led to fluctuations, with notable growth in Turkey (+60%) and Spain (+57%) but a 39% decline in China.
Ecco CEO leaves
Reports at the end of 2024 indicated that Panos Mytaros had resigned as chief executive of footwear group ECCO quite suddenly. He updated his LinkedIn profile to show that he was back in the Netherlands and was ‘open to work’.
In the interim, Thomas Gøgsig has been appointed as the acting CEO while the company evaluates its leadership strategy.
Mr Mytaros first joined ECCO as the tannery director in Indonesia before returning to Europe in 2002 to help establish the ECCO Leather Group in Dongen, the Netherlands. He became a board member in 2011 and took on the role of Group CEO in 2021, succeeding Steen Borgholm.
Thomas Gøgsig, a third-generation member of the Gøgsig family at ECCO, has been with the company for nearly a decade. He was appointed head of applied research in 2015 and later served as vice-president and chief of staff in the marketing division, starting in 2018.
Tennis star to wear adidas shoes
Sports group adidas has announced a multi-year footwear partnership with tennis star Grigor Dimitrov. The highest-ranked Bulgarian player of all time joins Alexander Zverev, Stefanos Tsitsipas, Jessica Pegula and Elina Svitolina on the brand’s roster.
Number 10 in the world rankings, Grigor Dimitrov will wear Adizero Ubersonic 5 shoes throughout the 2025 season, starting with the Australian Open in Melbourne in January, where an early injury put paid to his progress.
Adidas said the shoe is “fine-tuned for reactive speed”, and is designed to help athletes play “their fastest and most agile game”.
Strength and speed
Nike has announced a new shoe from its Jordan brand, the Zion 4. It takes its name from New Orleans Pelicans basketball star Zion Williamson. The brand said the new shoe had been built “to accentuate the combination of strength and speed at the centre of Zion Williamson’s game”.
It is designed to help players get off the ground quickly and “seamlessly transition from one dynamic move to the next”, it added.
Founder steps into CEO role
The founder of athletic footwear brand Inov8, Wayne Edy, has taken the role of CEO of the company, following the departure of Mike Snell Mr Edy founded the brand in 2003. It was bought by Japanese group Descente in 2015; Mr Edy bought it back 2021.
He said: “We’ve redefined the design and fit of our footwear to work naturally with the foot, enhancing strength and movement. Alongside this, we’ve rebranded. The response has been extremely positive and sets us up for growth in 2025.”
Michael Price will also return as product and marketing director after six previous years at Inov8 (2016-2022).
New country manager for Ortholite Indonesia
Developer of open-cell foam technology for footwear, Ortholite, has appointed Bo Grabowski as country manager for OrthoLite Indonesia. He will oversee operations, including manufacturing, business development, and partnerships with brands and tier-one factory partners.
Chief operating officer, Richard Bevan, highlighted Indonesia as a key growth market, noting Mr Grabowski’s extensive industry network as vital to strengthening regional relationships. Mr Grabowski brings over a decade of experience in the footwear industry, including leadership roles at Ecco and expertise in logistics and supply chain management.
AEC celebrates twenty-fifth anniversary
Spain’s national association of footwear component manufacturers (AEC) celebrated its twenty-fifth anniversary at a gala event in Elche in December.
Almost 300 people attended the event. AEC president, Manuel Román, paid tribute to past and present members. He thanked them for “keeping the faith when times had been hard”.
He said that AEC members’ support of the Futurmoda exhibition had been of great importance. Mr Román said that Futurmoda, which recently held its fifty-second edition, offered suppliers in all parts of the footwear supply chain a window on the world and a showcase for their innovative ideas.
Leather laces specialist dies
A former president of the International Council of Tanners, Lisa Howlett, has died. Former colleagues said Ms Howlett had died in November from complications following a surgical procedure. She was a fifth-generation tanner and ran her family company, Auburn Leather, until 2018, when ISA TanTec integrated Auburn into the group.
Auburn Leather was established in Kentucky in 1863, specialising in leathergoods for the horse and buggy market before evolving into a producer of leather laces for footwear and sporting goods. Lisa Howlett continued working after the acquisition to help ISA TanTec continue to offer these products to customers. She decided to retire in 2021.
In 2013, she was elected chair of the Leather Industries of America, one of the component bodies that formed the Leather and Hide Council of America. She was elected as the first woman president of the International Council of Tanners in 2018 and stayed in the role until 2020.
Chief executive of Intersport steps down
Sporting goods retail group Intersport has announced that its chief executive, Steve Evers, left the company at the end of 2024. Mr Evers had been in the post for six years. The company said his departure was by mutual agreement. Chair of the company’s board of management, Corinne Gensollen, said Mr Evers had contributed significantly to Intersport’s “transformation and success”. Its revenues have grown from an annual total of €11.9 billion in 2019, the year he became chief executive, to €14 billion in 2024. Intersport said it would provide information on “the succession process” at a later stage.
Workwear move
Footwear group Wolverine Worldwide has named Mike Maloney as the new chief product officer for its Workwear Group, overseeing product development, merchandising, and market expansion for brands including Wolverine, CAT Footwear, and Merrell Work. With nearly 20 years of experience at adidas, Under Armour, Columbia Sportswear, and Designer Brands, Mr Maloney is known for his expertise in product strategy and consumer-focused innovation. “I’m excited to join Wolverine Worldwide at a pivotal moment,” he said. “I look forward to enhancing our Work Group brands and reaching new consumers with innovative solutions.”
Rihanna does football
Singer Rihanna has unveiled her latest footwear design for Puma: a blue suede football boot inspired by the Puma King. The limited-edition Avanti LS includes a new heel with short gum studs, highlighting the turf styles of the past.
It is made from royal blue suede with touches of gold, a cream strip and a gum sole. Puma said: “Rihanna’s design inspiration is rooted in soccer but takes on a fashion lens with a slim upper and a playful blue colourway.”
Authentic Brands appoints president
Authentic Brands Group has announced the appointment of Matt Maddox as its new president. Mr Maddox brings over 20 years of experience in global hospitality and gaming, having led Wynn Resorts to become a recognised leader in luxury resorts.
Chief executive, Jamie Salter, praised Mr Maddox’s expertise in scaling high-growth businesses and driving operational excellence, calling his leadership “invaluable” for the company’s expansion into new industries.
Dr Martens creative director departs
Darren Mckoy has announced his decision to step down as creative director of Dr Martens, a position he has held since 2022.
He revealed that his decision to leave was made early last year, citing a desire to pursue new creative challenges. His departure comes amid declining sales for Dr Martens and a broader leadership transition. Ije Nwokorie, currently the brand’s chief brand officer, is set to take over as CEO following Kenny Wilson’s planned exit at the end of 2024.
Market-entry specialist
Developer of fabric finishing technology GTT has appointed a new head of marketing, Courtney Harold. In more than 25 years in the footwear and apparel industries, Ms Harold has worked at Polartec, Sappi and the Magic exhibition. She has also developed market-entry strategies for brands entering the Chinese market.
Industry & Innovation
Name change for the magazine
From the start of 2025, the magazine’s new name is Footwearbiz. It carries forward World Footwear’s more than 120 years of publishing news and in-depth articles about the global shoe industry.
In 2025, our main focus continues to be on materials, manufacturing and innovation, but in addition each issue will have a special theme which will inform all three sections in the magazines. The sections continue to be Materials, Manufacturing, Innovation; Athletic and Outdoor; and Business of Footwear. The special theme in this first issue of the year is soling and insoles.
As well as being available online, printed copies of each issue will go to subscribers, as they have done for so many decades. Printed copies will also be available for distribution at key industry exhibitions around the world throughout the year.
For example, visitors to the February editions of the North West Materials Show in Portland, and the North East Materials Show in Boston will find copies of this issue of Footwearbiz at the events.
We look forward to continuing our coverage of innovation in footwear for many years to come.
Studio promises Puma ‘a different kind of creativity’
Sports group Puma has opened a new creative hub at its headquarters in Germany, describing it as a space in which designers and creatives “can come together to develop new ideas and create concepts for new products and campaigns”. It also said the new hub, called Studio48 (1948 was the year of the brand’s launch), was part of the company’s “brand elevation strategy”, through which it aims to create sustainable growth.
Spanning more than 500 square-metres the studio will feature a 3D printing facility, sewing machines for leather and textiles, a product testing area, a photo studio and a meeting space to connect designers across different departments and welcome external creatives to work on new products and campaigns.
“We are creating a significant tool to enhance the excellence of our designs and elevate the brand,” said the company’s vice-president for creative direction and innovation, Heiko Desens. “Studio48 will be a space for a different kind of creativity, where designers from different departments can brainstorm, exchange best practices, experience new materials and touch and feel the products they want to make.”
First for BASF biopolymer
Hong Kong based Mount to Coast, a specialist in ultrarunning and long-distance footwear, has joined forces with BASF to advance sustainable innovation in performance shoes. Their collaboration has introduced CircleCELL, a midsole made with BASF’s ecoflex BMB biopolymer.
Ecoflex BMB replaces fossil feedstocks with renewable materials derived from organic waste and residual biomass.
Dow shows new shoe materials Specialist chemical supplier Dow announced the introduction of a new portfolio of low-carbon material solutions to enhance sustainability in the footwear industry. The portfolio includes bio-circular materials, post-consumer recycled resins, reversible cross-linking resins, and polyolefin elastomers.
In collaboration with Porto Indonesia Sejahtera, Dow’s Revoloop resins are being used in sandals, making it the first brand in Asia to integrate these recycled materials.
Geox to invest in China expansion Italian shoemaker Geox recently announced a €120 million industrial plan and a five-year partnership with a leading Chinese operator to expand its presence in the market there. This follows its decision to cease direct operations in China and the US, shifting to local partnerships.
Geox also extended debt repayment terms by 24 months with banks, including Monte dei Paschi, BNP Paribas, and Credit Agricole.
Direct dyeing
Green Theme Technologies (GTT) has worked with Golden Long John, a Taiwanese supplier to the footwear industry, to combine its waterless curing technology with a colouring process.
Golden Long John installed GTT’s EMPEL PFAS-free finishing platform in its Vietnamese facilities in 2023. The ongoing partnership between the two companies has led to the
Biodegradable midsole innovation
Open-cell foam technology developer OrthoLite’s Cirql business, launched in 2022 and based in Vietnam, has introduced Cirql Zero, an industrially compostable and biodegradable foam innovation designed for midsole components in footwear. The product debuted at ISPO in Munich at the end of 2024.
Cirql Zero offers two end-of-life solutions: recyclability through rTPU30, which incorporates 30% post-consumer recycled content, and industrial compostability. The latter meets the standard of 90% degradation within 180 days. This innovation leverages a proprietary polymer compound and supercritical foaming technology, enabling scalability to hundreds of millions of shoes annually. “Footwear brands have long sought a fully biodegradable midsole material that maintains performance properties. Cirql Zero fulfills this need, offering a price-competitive, scalable solution,” said Matt Thwaites, Cirql’s general manager.
3D printing tie-up aims to fill BASF gap
Additive manufacturing specialist Forward AM is to work with RP America. The Iowa-based company will become Forward AM’s chief distributor in the North American market. Forward AM, which was formerly the additive manufacturing division of BASF, relaunched independently last year.
BASF launched its original 3D Printing Solutions operation in 2017 after acquiring Dutch 3D filament manufacturer Innofil3D. The following year, the group also acquired Hamburg-based Advanc3D Materials, and French company Setup Performance.
Collectively, these businesses became BASF Forward AM in 2022 and brought Martin Back in as chief executive. Mr Back’s own-named turnaround company acquired this part of the BASF business in 2024 and relaunched it under the Forward AM name.
The company has now said that the winding down of BASF’s North American 3D printing business has led to its partnership with RP America. Now, RP America will serve as Forward AM’s feet on the ground in that market, delivering support, technical expertise and solutions to customers in the US, Canada and Mexico.
“This collaboration bridges the gap left by BASF’s exit,” Forward AM stated, “ensuring customers continue to receive the high-quality products and services they have come to rely on.”
WFSGI: sports brands central to health
The World Federation of Sporting Goods Industries (WFSGI) and the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development have co-produced a policy paper that highlights physical activity as a low-cost, high-return investment, benefiting the environment, fostering a healthier workforce and supporting the development of young people.
‘Physical Activity: The transversal benefits for our people, our planet, our economy and more prosperous societies’ calls for physical activity to be prioritised and cross-sector collaborations formed, positioning the sporting goods industry as a key player in shaping innovative and impactful solutions to global challenges.
Featuring examples from WFSGI members Nike, adidas, Speedo and ASICS, the paper looks at how the sporting goods sector is contributing to fostering active lifestyles through inclusive products, sustainable practices and global outreach.
Recent figures from the World Health Organisation reveal that 31% of adults do not meet the recommended levels of physical activity to maintain good health. That number rises to a 81% of 12-17-year-olds not doing enough physical activity to stay healthy. The WHO has calculated the economic cost of treating health conditions that can be prevented through engaging in a healthier lifestyle with more physical activity will reach at least $300 billion by 2030, around $27 billion annually.
combination of the water-repellent and direct dyeing process developed by Golden Long John.
“We believe this is a big step forward for the fashion and textile industries,” commented Martin Flora, president of GTT business development.
Thirty years of the Materials Show
Exhibition organiser American Events is celebrating the thirtieth anniversary of the launch of its North West Apparel & Footwear Materials Show in Portland. It won the trust of Nike to set up a vendors’ fair in the city.
In 2015, New Balance followed suit and asked American Events to set up a similar gathering in Boston, leading to the launch of the North East Materials Show.
The thirtieth anniversary North West Show will take place on February 12 and 13, with the North East Show following on February 19 and 20. American Events said it was happy to be marking “three decades of innovation, collaboration and industry leadership”.
See things in a new way
Sports brand Puma has launched a shoe designed, partly, using artificial intelligence (AI). It said the new Inverse sneaker involved Puma designers bringing “feasibility, functionality, and reality” to an AI-made concept. The AI-made concept was built on models from the Puma archive. Describing the process, lead product line manager, Scottie Gurwitz, said AI does not “abide by the same rules as human designers”, and insisted this could help design professionals “see things in new ways”.
China recognition
OrthoLite China has been recognised as one of Guangdong’s Top 500 Manufacturing Enterprises for 2024. The list, compiled by the Guangdong Provincial Enterprise Confederation, highlights companies that have contributed significantly to the region’s economy.
With over 950 employees there, OrthoLite operates a high-tech facility that includes automation and a recycling centre.
Backtrack
23 January 2025
Leather capsule collection for Gola anniversary
22 January 2025
Double-digit growth for adidas Support for California communities from New Balance
20 January 2025
Saucony revisits 80s trainer
16 January 2025
Adidas targets new consumers with F1 partnership
New Balance achieves record sales in 2024
15 January 2025
JD Sports faces setback despite footwear growth
13 January 2025
Further partnership expansion for On and Loewe
Puma challenges Tiger Woods’ logo
10 January 2025
Stella International reports mixed Q4
09 January 2025
Footwear and apparel collection celebrates Hyrox-Puma partnership
08 January 2025
Lloyd reveals new brand identity
07 January 2025
International appeal brings more than 40 Brazilian brands to Riva del Garda
19 December 2024
Birkenstock reports strong revenue and profit growth
18 December 2024
Hybrid mountain-city collaboration
16 December 2024
Money talks in Tuzla
Bottega Veneta names creative director
13 December 2024
Reebok US footwear restructuring
Footwearbiz’s publishing cycle and limitations on space make it impossible for us to run more than a carefully selected sample of news from across the industry. However, we publish hundreds more stories on www.footwearbiz.com. The site is updated every day with news from every continent and every part of the industry, making footwearbiz.com one of the most comprehensive archives of news anywhere on the web for the global footwear industry.
We list below just a few of the headlines that have appeared on the site in recent weeks — www.footwearbiz.com allows you to read the news items you may have missed.
12 December 2024
Key Nike factory posts double digit growth
Shoe group designer brands confident of navigating headwinds
10 December 2024
More layoffs at LL Bean
09 December 2024
Jewellery celebration from Zanotti Iconic slippers break auction records
06 December 2024
New CPO for Merrell
05 December 2024
Surplus leather used in new boot collaboration
Streetwear brand teams up with Decathlon
02 December 2024
JD Sports Acquires Courir
29 November 2024
Dr Martens posts half-year loss
Sports sector gears up for ISPO
28 November 2024
Footwear associations appeal for Mercosur deal
Coats’ 70% recycled components offer carbon reductions
27 November 2024
Revamped product follows Kirkum’s Portugal move
26 November 2024
Puma pushes for US growth with second flagship
OrthoLite expands India operations
25 November 2024
Carbon footprint of wasted hides higher than previously thought
22 November 2024
Nosedive for Allbirds but ‘reignited’ product on horizon
21 November 2024
Nike extols 3D printing as ‘next-level manufacturing’
20 November 2024
Huge growth in Asia for Amer Sports
Recycling leather footwear waste through 3D printing
19 November 2024
Hoka & Satisfy extend collaboration
18 November 2024
Proposed Tapestry-Capri merger permanently cancelled
15 November 2024
US sales deliver growth for Acushnet
14 November 2024
Half-year results down at Capri, but Jimmy Choo holds its own
13 November 2024
Revenue and volume up at Yue Yuen, but retail is still slow
12 November 2024
Puma recognised for sustainability initiatives
11 November 2024
FICE pays tribute to footwear industry reaction to Valencia disaster
Steve Madden cuts Chinese production over tariffs
The rough and tumble of the trail can accelerate delamination of cemented soles on footwear. Keen claims its innovative directinjection process, Fusion, is three times stronger than adhesive.
ALL CREDITS: KEEN
The f ight for durability
Asoling innovation has helped outdoor footwear brand Keen win recognition from Time magazine. The brand’s Targhee IV hiking boot was one of the products that the magazine listed among the ‘Best Inventions’ of 2024. Following this recognition and what Keen has called an “initially limited debut” last year, the boot is back as part of the company’s spring-summer 2025 collection.
Features that enhance the durability of the Targhee IV are what captured the attention of its evaluation team. “A hiking boot breaks down when dirt, mud and water cause the midsole to become unglued from the outsole,” the magazine summarised. “This is called delamination, and delamination is the enemy of durability.”
The use of a recently launched, proprietary technology called Keen Fusion in the construction of the Targhee IV is at the core of the footwear brand’s response to this age-old problem. This technology reengineers the way the outsole, midsole and upper are
A “radical step forward” in making its footwear more durable helped Keen win recognition in Time’s ‘Best Inventions’ list at the end of 2024.
joined together. Fusion works by using heat, pressure and high levels of automation to inject a liquid polyurethane into the space between the upper and the outsole. The liquid solidifies in seconds and forms the midsole of each boot. It also forms bonds that are three times stronger than those on offer from glue. Injecting the midsole between the upper and the outsole fuses the whole shoe together. “I’m thrilled to see our Targhee IV come to life,” says the brand’s senior vice-president for product, Scott Labbe. He describes the product as “a radical boot” and as “footwear that is
no longer limited by weak bonds and short-term fixes”. He says this is a testament to the company’s commitment to reducing the impact of its shoes.
Testing has proved the Targhee IV’s robustness. In inhouse lab tests, the boot did not break down after 1,600 kilometres of use. It also stood up to all attempts on the lab’s ‘pull machine’ to force the components of the boot apart.
Unstuck in the mud
Delamination occurs when the adhesive that is usually used to attach the outsole to the rest of the shoe begins to degrade. When this happens, the sole starts to peel away, making the footwear unwearable. Repairs are often possible but will only last as long as it takes for delamination to strike again. And the unsticking can occur at the least convenient moment. At some point, most hikers will have come across the detached, abandoned sole of a fellow-walker’s boot in the mud or by the side of the trail.
In the face of this, Fusion is “a radical step forward”, Keen insists. Fusing the sole and upper of the boot together using the midsole as a lasting bonding mechanism constitutes an innovative direct-injection process, the company claims. As well as enhancing durability, this eliminates the need for solvents, it says, taking “toxic glues” out of the equation. The midsole still works as a midsole too, of course, providing supportive cushioning and high levels of shock-absorption “adventure after adventure”, the company states.
Performance-enhancing lugs
Other features that enhance the Targhee IV’s sustainability story include leather sourced from tanneries certified by multi-stakeholder body the Leather Working Group (LWG). Certified tanneries must meet the LWG’s requirements in areas such as reducing their consumption of energy, chemicals and water. The boots are built for long-lasting performance and comfort, Keen says. The outsole that Fusion fuses to the rest of the boot is also proprietary, from the brand’s Rugged range, with hardwearing multi-directional lugs that offer good traction on “even the harshest of terrains”. The brand describes the material it has used in this outsole as being twice as durable as rubber.
The product also features a removable, air-injected insole from the company’s Luftcell range. The fibres in the laces are recycled and moisture protection comes from the Keen Dry breathable waterproof membrane and a proprietary, PFAS-free durable water repellency finish. There is also odour protection from proprietary technology that is free from pesticides and harmful chemicals.
Sustainability is an important part of Keen’s push forward with Fusion, too. It has the machinery in place in its own facilities in Thailand and the US to put the new process into practice and this has allowed it to collect important data. From
Solvent-free. The upper and outsole of a low-cut Targhee IV boot, with the injected midsole in the middle bonding all the parts together.
this, it now knows that footwear construction with Fusion consumes 3.5 times less electricity per pair than the process with traditional cement construction. Using less energy and no solvents has led the company to calculate that the carbon footprint of a pair of boots made with Fusion is 1 kilogramme of CO2-equivalent lower than the figure for non-Fusion footwear.
“Durability is sustainability, and so is reducing the use of energy and solvents,” Keen concludes. “We are on a mission to make the world’s cleanest, longest-lasting shoes. We call this ‘Consciously Created’, and Fusion is a big step forward on our journey.” There is more to come.
The advancement in soling technology that Keen Fusion represents earned the brand inclusion in the list of Time magazine’s ‘Best Inventions’ of 2024.
Insoles as essential equipment
Dr Naveed Anwar
Think of the feet as the unsung heroes of athletic performance. They absorb the brunt of every sprint, jump and pivot, acting as shockabsorbers and as propulsion engines. The pressure to which athletes subject their feet is intense and this can put them at risk of injuries that can compromise performance. Pressure-reducing insoles, made with the help of the advanced biomechanical concepts and innovative materials, can prevent injuries and improve performance.
Pressure is distributed across the foot unevenly. A runner’s heel can absorb up to three times the athlete’s body weight with each strike, while a soccer player’s forefoot handles immense stress during the sharp directional changes that are required frequently during a match.
In the past, in an effort to alleviate these pressures, athletes often relied on trial-and-error in making footwear choices. For their part, footwear and insole manufacturers often generalised demands, using quick fixes such as generic padding or taping to reduce discomfort, but without addressing the root cause of any problem. Now, though, advanced pressuremapping technology can provide precise data on highimpact zones to guide insole design.
Pressure mapping can identify exactly where feet
Pressure-relieving insoles can play a pivotal role in enhancing comfort, reducing injury risks and even improving athletic performance. This article explores the technology and science behind recent advances in these products.
endure the most stress, guiding the precise placement of support and cushioning. The process uses sensors to identify high-impact zones on the foot. Pressure mapping acts as a spotlight, illuminating exactly which areas on the feet bear the brunt of the athletic effort. By pinpointing these zones, manufacturers can create insoles with correctly targeted support.
Repeated impact
On the materials side, advances in gel, memory foam and ethylene vinyl acetate (EVA) mean you can have insoles that do more than just cushion impact. Advanced cushioning materials have the ability to
absorb shock, adapt to movement and enhance comfort all at once. Gel and memory foam excel in applications for sports like basketball or running, where repeated impacts demand exceptional shock absorption. Runners especially appreciate memory foam’s ability to mould to each person’s unique foot shape. On the other hand, EVA and polyurethane foams strike a balance between lightweight flexibility and durability, making them ideal for high-intensity sports that require dynamic footwork.
Innovations such as dual-density materials and customised design ensure every part of the foot can contribute to optimal movement. A runner tackling long distances will benefit from a dual-density insole that supports the heel during impact and propels the forefoot during toe-off. Soon, wearable sensors will also become part of insole design and will continuously monitor foot pressure in real time, helping athletes adjust their movement patterns or change footwear mid-game if they have to.
Secret weapon
Advances like 3D scanning and 3D printing have revolutionised customisation, allowing insoles to match the exact contours of each foot. Customisation techniques use 3D scanning to create a digital foot model, which can then be 3D printed to include precise cushioning and support for each athlete’s needs. This level of precision minimises pressure points and
addresses issues like overpronation or supination.
Customising insoles to match individual traits is like giving an athlete a secret weapon in the shape of support and performance, tailored just for them. This technology also streamlines production, eliminating the need for traditional moulds and reducing material waste. This is a win for athletes and for the environment.
Studies have also shown that reducing concentrated pressure on the foot can minimise longer-term problems. Over time, insoles designed to reduce strain can help prevent chronic conditions such as plantar fasciitis, stress fractures and joint pain.
Investment plan
Choosing the right pressure-relieving insoles is about more than comfort. It is about finding a match that aligns with each person’s foot shape and athletic goals. Making an informed decision on insoles is to invest in immediate performance improvements and in longterm foot health.
Pressure-relieving insoles have evolved from being mere comfort accessories to becoming an essential part of many athletes’ equipment. With ongoing advances in materials and in sensor-based mapping technology, their importance is likely only to increase in future.
“ Customising insoles to match individual traits is like giving an athlete a secret weapon. ”
Dr Naveed Anwar is a senior manager in footwear design engineering, culture, collaborations and partnerships at adidas.
In football, the forefoot has to cope with high levels of stress during sharp directional changes, such as the one demonstrated here by AS Roma and Argentina national team midfielder Paulo Dybala.
A research team in Poland has developed special footwear incorporating pulse-emitters to help people with diabetes.
Footwear for diabetics
Robert Gajewski, Iwona Masłowska-Lipowicz and Katarzyna Ławińska
Until 1922, diabetes was a fatal disease. This is no longer the case, but many patients with diabetes must face up to a number of possible health complications. The three most important are: retinopathy, nephropathy and neuropathy.
The last of these is of particular interest here owing to its connection with the development of diabetic foot syndrome. The risk of developing diabetic foot syndrome affects up to 25% of people with diabetes 1
The most visible effect of diabetic foot syndrome is the occurrence of ulcers. There is a lifetime risk of diabetic foot ulceration for up to 34% of patients 2 Relapses are common after initial healing; approximately 40% of patients relapse within a year of ulcer healing, almost 60% within three years and 65% within five years.
In extreme cases, diabetic foot syndrome can lead to Charcot’s Syndrome (sometimes called Charcot’s Foot), which is characterised by the destruction of bones and joints. The incidence of Charcot’s Syndrome in diabetes ranges from 0.1% to 8% 2. In very extreme cases, this may lead to amputation. The probability of amputation in patients with diabetes is 30-40 times higher than in people without diabetes 3, 4, 5
Nerve impulses
An important issue is the pathogenesis of the development of diabetic foot syndrome. A commonly accepted view is that the main factor leading to the development of diabetic foot syndrome is neuropathy, which is to say damage to peripheral nerves as a result of their demyelination caused by hyperglycaemia 5 The longest sections of nerves, which are the nerves leading to the feet, are most exposed to destructive factors. Impaired conduction of nerve impulses limits
Foot health is of prime importance to people with diabetes. CREDIT: MANGKORN DANGGURA/SHUTTERSTOCK
people’s sense of touch in the feet, their ability to feel the ground and, in general, proprioception.
In this condition, the patient does not feel excessive pressure and does not control the position of the foot, which leads to overload in various areas of the foot.
Incorrect flow of nerve impulses also causes inappropriate muscle tension, which additionally changes the distribution of pressure on the plantar side of the foot. As a result, overloading various areas of the foot leads to the formation of wounds and ulcers, which are difficult to heal owing to impaired functioning of the circulatory system.
Glucose levels
Prevention of complications of diabetic foot syndrome can be achieved at two levels. It is crucial to manage the patient in a way that prevents abnormal glucose levels. This is an obvious action and comes down to appropriate pharmacology and patient care, including an appropriate diet. If the patient is properly treated and disciplined, there is a good chance that abnormal glucose levels will not occur and, therefore, complications in the course of diabetes will not occur.
However, regardless of whether you manage to control your glucose levels or not, it is necessary to control and care for your lower limbs.
From passive to active
Of course, the level of control depends on many factors. The main criterion is to avoid wearing shoes that may cause abrasions and discomfort. Essential criteria to be followed include avoiding the risk of tissue damage, avoiding excessive pressure that could lead to wounds or ulcers, and redistributing pressure away from the most sensitive areas of the foot.
Good design of the sole and insole of the shoe is important for reducing high pressure on the plantar side of the foot. The use of good shoes and good insoles as a method for treating symptoms, but it is a passive method. Because the main factor in the development of diabetic foot syndrome is neuropathy, the damage to peripheral nerves, there is also a need to develop an active method, one that provides nerve protection.
This was the focus of a recent project at the Łukasiewicz Research Network - Lodz Institute of Technology in Poland. The main element of the system the research team developed are shoes that have insoles with pressure sensors.
Pulse rate
It has been observed that Low-Intensity Pulsed Ultrasound (LIPUS) and Pulsed Electromagnetic Field (PEMF) can enhance peripheral nerve regeneration. In this project, this observation became the starting point for the development of the special footwear. The insoles in the shoes generate LIPUS and PEMF at specific frequencies.
These frequencies had already been determined in in vitro tests conducted on Schwann cells and neuronal cells, as well as by analysis of genes involved in proinflammatory processes and genes involved in the
processes of growth and regeneration of peripheral nerves. The project examined the potential benefits of wearing the special shoes with insoles that generate these pulses as shown above (1).
The pulses are powered by accumulators, which are coupled with a control module mounted on the user’s belt as shown (2).
Right dimensions
The footwear developed for the project meets all the requirements for footwear for people with diabetes. These include greater width in the forefoot area, a higher toe and attachment to the foot (with laces or hook-andloop) enabling the footwear to be adjusted to the width of the foot and to the changing width of the foot during the day. The general requirements for such footwear are large dimensions for the interior of the footwear and a good fit of the shoe upper to the foot.
Specific areas of focus in the construction of the footwear include length; the footwear should be around one centimetre longer than the foot. Also, the position of any stitching or joining of pieces should not be where the material will come into contact with the most sensitive areas of the feet.
Dimensions of the interior of the footwear must also take into account the thickness of the insole. This last parameter is particularly important in this case because the thickness of the specialist insole the project team developed is 11 millimetres.
Cable conundrum
One of the most difficult tasks the team faced was designing a method for running the cable connecting the pulse-emitters, the battery and the control system. The cable has to be thick enough to stand up to wear and movement, but at the same time, must not do anything to lessen foot comfort for the wearer. In the case of people with diabetic foot syndrome, an impaired sense of touch could leave wearers unaware of too much pressure and this could cause injuries.
The project team modified the insole and adapted the construction of the shoe to prevent this.
Shoes with insoles emitting PEMF and LIPUS. Insole connected to a control module or accumulator.
CREDIT: ŁUKASIEWICZ RESEARCH NETWORK
For the purpose of reducing plantar pressure in the area of metatarsal joint and to reduce the bending forces acting on the insole, the team decided to use a roller sole, but made sure it was not completely stiff. To make sure the insole would cause no harm to the plantar surface of the foot, it set about measuring the plantar pressure distribution pattern.
Treadmill tests
Insoles with pulse-emitters were compared to reference insoles of the same thickness made from ethylene-vinyl acetate (EVA). Ten people took part in tests on a treadmill, walking at two speeds: 2 kilometres per hour, and 3 kilometres per hour. Each person carried out the test three times in shoes with the pulse-emitting insoles, and three times with the reference insoles. The results of the tests are given in Table 1
These results confirm that an insole that generates pulses at the right frequency, from the point of view of plantar pressure, is better because the maximum pressure is lower and the differences are statistically significant. Additional operational tests followed to verify in the field the performance of the whole system.
Added functionality
As well as design, materials are an important aspect of footwear for diabetics. Foot ulcers, which are very common in diabetics, are highly susceptible to infection. Skin injuries such as wounds and burns are often worsened by colonisation by the Pseudomonas aeruginosa (P. aeruginosa) bacterium, causing infections. P. aeruginosa is responsible for more than 50% of all severe burn infections and is the second most common organism isolated from chronic wounds, including diabetic ulcers, bedsores and burn wounds 6
In this context, preventing the colonisation of microorganisms in the foot or wound will result in faster healing, making a significant contribution to preventing the occurrence of infections.
Giving additional functions (antibacterial, antifungal or self-cleaning) to footwear materials can prevent infections in the lower extremities of diabetic patients or result in faster healing of already existing wounds. The team at the Łukasiewicz Research Network - Lodz Institute of Technology made modifications to various footwear materials (leather, textiles and plastics) to endow them with antibacterial, antifungal and selfcleaning functionality 7,8. To achieve this, it used commercial products and also innovative substances produced in the network’s laboratory. The methodologies used are spraying, surfacing, the sol-gel method and thin film.
The active therapeutic footwear developed in this project offers the following features that could benefit people with diabetes: suitable construction, appropriate materials, LIPUS (Low intensity pulsed ultrasound ) and PEMF (Pulsed electromagnetic field therapy) emitters, regeneration of degraded cells, possible formal certification as footwear for diabetics. The team’s conclusion is that the design and features of the footwear (materials, emitters and other components) mean that the footwear can be effective in the treatment of diabetic foot problems and contribute to an increase in the activity of people who have diabetic foot syndrome.
References
1. Singh Nalini, Armstrong Dawid G, Lipsky Benjamin A. 2005. ‘Preventing foot ulcers in patients with diabetes’. JAMA. 12;293(2):217-28. doi: 10.1001/jama.293.2.217.
2. Edmonds M., Manu Ch., Vas P. 2021. ‘The current burden of diabetic foot disease’. J Clin Orthop Trauma. 17: 88-93. doi: 10.1016/j.jcot.2021.01.017.
3. Lavery L A, W H van Houtum, Ashry H R, Armstrong D G, Pugh J A. 1999. ‘Diabetes-related lower-extremity amputations disproportionately affect Blacks and Mexican Americans’. 92(6): 593-9, doi: 10.1097/00007611199906000-00008.
4. Korzon-Burakowska A. 2008. ‘Zespół stopy cukrzycowej –patogeneza i praktyczne aspekty postępowania’. Forum Medycyny Rodzinnej. 2008;2(3):234-241.
5. Siitonem O I, Niskanen L K, Laakso M, Siitonen J T, Pyörälä K. 1993. ‘Lower-extremity amputations in diabetic and nondiabetic patients. A population-based study in eastern Finland’. 16(1): 16-20. Doit: 10.2337/diacare.16.1.16.
6 Nichols, D.P. et al. (2013) Effects of azithromycin in Pseudomonas aeruginosa burn wound infection. Journal of Surgical Research, 183 (2), 767- 776.
7. Masłowska-Lipowicz, I., at al. (2023). Novel method of obtaining textile fabrics with self-cleaning and antimicrobial properties. The Journal of the Textile Institute, 114 (10), 1509-1517.
8. Masłowska-Lipowicz, I., at al. (2024). Footwear Innovation to Improve the Comfort of Use. In Ławińska K., Jabłońska M.(red.), The importance of social innovations in the knowledge-based economy in the context of footwear sector solutions, Wydawnictwo Uniwersytetu Łódzkiego, Łódź 2024.
Note
This project was funded by the Ministry of Science and Higher Education of Poland as part of a programme called ‘Science for Society’. The project’s title is ‘Active therapeutic footwear dedicated to patients with diabetic foot syndrome’. The project’s grant number is: NdS 547732/2022/2022.
Authors
The authors work at the Łukasiewicz Research Network - Lodz Institute of Technology in Poland.
Leather soled footwear and its ability to be repaired and resoled gives longevity and timeless appeal, making it a sustainable and stylish choice for those who value quality and craftsmanship.
CREDIT: SHUTTERSTOCK
Leather outsoles, not to be overlooked
Innovations in footwear might suggest that comfort, performance, and wearability are in a constant state of evolution. While fashion-driven changes certainly influence the industry, some components of shoes have remained remarkably consistent over time. One such example is the leather outsole. Until the 1940s, leather was the dominant material used for outsoles in most footwear. The development of the vulcanisation process revolutionised natural rubber, making it more durable and elastic, while advances in plastics and polymers have since introduced new soling options. Despite these innovations, vegetable-tanned leather soles have retained their prominence in traditional footwear.
Leather outsoles are valued for their ability to last for decades, often outliving other materials as a result of their natural durability. Their longevity is a key factor in the sustainability of footwear, as they can be easily repaired or resoled, significantly extending the life of the shoe. Additionally, vegetable tanning, a traditional method that uses plant-based tannins, can be seen as a more environmentally friendly process compared to modern chemical tanning methods. The combination of sustainability, long-lasting wear, and the potential for repair makes vegetable-tanned leather a preferred choice in high-quality, traditional footwear.
As the name suggests, vegetable-tanned leather is produced using naturally occurring tannins found in plant-based materials, such as leaves, tree wood, bark,
nuts, and galls, to convert hides and skins into leather. This practice has evolved, though the traditional methods of vegetable tanning, especially for sole leather, remain largely unchanged.
The selection of the raw material is crucial. Sole leather is characterised by its thick, firm texture, and to achieve this, only heavy hides weighing over 36kg are deemed suitable. From the tanner's perspective, a heavy hide signifies one of substantial thickness. While the thickness of the resulting leather can be adjusted during processing, the focus is placed on selecting hides with an appropriate weight and thickness, as increasing thickness is extremely challenging, if not impossible.
Chemical and physical
The tanning process typically follows one of two main methods, with the counter-current system being the most widely used. Oak bark tanning is considered the absolute best for sole leather and while it shares certain similarities with other methods, these distinctions will be expanded on later.
Vegetable tanning is both a chemical and a physical process. While the preservation or tanning of the hide is driven by the chemical interactions between tannins and collagen, the main protein that constitutes animal hides, there are also physical interactions at play where “non-tans” physically fill voids and spaces within the fibrous structure of the hide. As a result, vegetable-
tanned leather tends to be fuller and heavier.
For effective tannin fixation, the tannins must first penetrate the hide, which is only possible when the tannin solution has a low concentration. The penetration of the tanning liquid through the full thickness of the hide occurs over several months, as opposed to the days required in modern tanning methods. Accelerating this process by using stronger tannin solutions is not advisable, as it can lead to “case hardening”. In this condition, the tannins will fix on the outer surface of the hide too quickly, preventing further penetration.
The counter-current system addresses this issue by beginning with the least concentrated tannin solution. The hides are then gradually moved through a series of pits with progressively stronger tannin concentrations. This ensures that the tannins penetrate and fix into the hide over time, resulting in fully tanned leather after several months. The term ‘counter-current’ refers to the direction of movement in the system: while the hides move through the pits, the tannin concentration flows in the opposite direction.
Bark blends
Until the mid-19th century, oak bark was the predominant tannin of choice, due to its ability to produce firm yet flexible soles with a degree of water resistance. However, oak bark is naturally low in tannin content, making the tanning process slow and often cited as taking “a year and a day” for effective tanning. While oak bark tannage is still in use today, most tanneries now favour blends of vegetable tannins. These blends offer improved penetration within a more reasonable time frame, while still achieving the desired texture and colour, similar to that of oak. Typically, these tannin blends (liquors) include chestnut, derived from the wood of the chestnut tree, which imparts firmness and a yellowish hue. Additionally, mimosa, extracted from the black wattle (an acacia species), is often added to accelerate the penetration process, striking a balance between time efficiency and the desired quality of the leather.
Oak bark tanned sole leather is a premium material, renowned for its durability, aesthetic appeal, and environmentally friendly production. Unlike the slightly faster full counter-current system, oak bark tanning begins with a slow pit tanning phase. During this stage, the hides are immersed for several months to gradually start the tanning process and “set” the grain. This is followed by a layering stage where the partially tanned hides are placed in pits filled with water or oak tannin liquor and interspersed with oak bark chippings, creating what can best be described as ‘bark and hide lasagna’. This method, relying on the tannins extracted from the oak bark to impart unique properties to the leather, results in a dense, firm material with a close grain, making it ideal for applications requiring structural integrity, such as shoe soles, essentially requiring a slow wearing out due to abrasion. The leather’s rich, natural colour typically ranges from golden to brown, with subtle variations depending on the specific tanning process used and subsequent processing that involves bleaching, oiling, rolling and slow drying.
One distinctive feature of sole leather is that it is traditionally sold by weight rather than by area, as is common with most other types of leather. Historically, this practice led tanners to incorporate fillers such as sugar (glucose/dextrose), China clay (kaolin), or Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) to increase weight at minimal cost. While the controlled use of fillers during the final oiling and drying process can enhance the leather’s appearance and properties, excessive use can result in issues such as discolouration. In modern practice, the inclusion of mineral ash content as a stipulated test criterion ensures that such adulterants are not overused. Another notable benefit is its ability to adapt to the wearer. Over time, it moulds to the shape of the foot, providing a customised fit and enhanced comfort. Its breathable nature helps to reduce moisture buildup, promoting healthier feet. This can be evidenced by a study conducted by the University of Milan that revealed that tanning leather with vegetable tannins produces materials with remarkable antibacterial properties, particularly against gram-positive bacteria. (See World Footwear issue 3 2020.) Leathers treated with these vegetable tannins function as non-leaching antimicrobial materials, making them safe for direct contact with human skin. Consequently, leather tanned with vegetable tannins presents a promising solution to reduce or prevent the development of unpleasant odours caused by the microbial fermentation of body secretions, such as those occurring in feet.
As a sustainable choice, this leather resonates with environmentally conscious consumers due to its natural tanning process, using raw materials from coppiced woodlands, and its extended lifespan. Moreover, items made from oak bark tanned leather are repairable and resoleable, allowing them to remain functional and beautiful for years.
“Hide Lasagna” - The final pit tanning stage involves scattering the milled oak bark between each hide in the pit.
CREDIT: KILGER
Craftsmanship is combined with cutting-edge 3D technology to create precision lasts for sports, fashion, health, and safety footwear, including custom and innovative designs.
ALL CREDITS: FRAMAS
The lasting demands of automation
The footwear industry is currently navigating a landscape filled with new challenges. Key issues include rising production costs, ever-more demanding quality standards, and a strong emphasis on sustainability. To address these challenges, many companies are looking towards automation to help them find solutions.
Integrating automated processes into production can significantly enhance quality and speed, making it a compelling option for manufacturers. One innovative approach gaining traction, and which Pirmasens-based lasting technology specialist Framas is actively exploring, in collaboration with its partners, is the integration of direct-injection processes into footwear production. This method involves directly moulding the outsole onto the upper of the shoe, which eliminates the need for complex adhesive applications. This also contributes to reducing the volume of waste that the footwear manufacturing process naturally creates. However, the direct-injection process presents its own set of challenges, particularly regarding the precise alignment of the last, which shapes the shoe, of course, with the reference points of the automation equipment and the direct-injection tool.
Variations in material thickness and cutting tolerance can lead to additional measurement tolerances that
Last technology developer Framas makes a case for automation in direct-injection processes, but points out that specially developed lasts are an essential part of this transition.
must be meticulously managed. To ensure a smooth operation in automated systems, it is crucial that every functional area is manufactured with high precision. In metalworking, tolerances are typically maintained within hundredths of a millimetre, whereas the footwear industry generally operates with tolerances of plus or minus 1 millimetre. While these tolerances may suffice for traditional footwear production, they are inadequate for highly automated processes.
Deviations in alignment can result in over moulding or improper fit, underscoring the necessity for specially developed lasts. To meet these demands and to present itself as an ideal partner for footwear producers that want to implement advances in automation, Framas has implemented the use of high-precision (HP) lasts.
The structure of HP Lasts
HP lasts serve as moulds for shoes, just as conventional lasts do, but they come equipped with advanced features specifically designed for automated manufacturing processes.
A central element of an HP last is the top plate. This component is crucial for holding the last securely within the production system and ensuring precise positioning throughout the manufacturing process. The design of these top plates varies according to the specifications of the automation plant supplier, reflecting the unique requirements of different systems. In addition to their primary functions of holding and positioning, HP lasts incorporate several additional components that enhance their functionality:
Integrated lace holders: These holders facilitate the lacing process, making it more efficient; Automated opening mechanisms: Featuring sliding components, these mechanisms help reduce wear and tear during production; Robotic mounts: These mounts enable seamless integration with automated systems, further streamlining the manufacturing process.
Framas provides a variety of modifications tailored to meet specific production process needs. This customisation allows manufacturers to optimise their workflows effectively. Unlike traditional turned lasts, which are limited in design possibilities owing to their manufacturing constraints, HP lasts offer greater design freedom. This flexibility empowers designers to create innovative shoe styles that can be efficiently produced in an automated environment.
Manufacturing
process
Constructing HP lasts involves a manufacturing process that diverges from the one for standard lasts. The primary distinction is that additional steps are required for positioning and aligning the top plate on the HP last. This process also emphasises achieving extremely low tolerances during fine milling. The steps involved as follows.
of the parts involved in a High Precision Last
First comes some CAM work. The process begins with digital modelling of the last and the top plate. This digital modelling is essential for ensuring precise adaptation of components to meet the specific requirements of the production system. Then there is rough milling, what can also be called vague milling, an initial phase to create the basic shape of the last.
After this, cutting the last is the next step, with a focus on processing specific opening mechanisms that are integral to the design of the last. Precise cutting of the cone is also necessary to prepare it for screwing in the top plate, ensuring a secure fit.
Then fine milling can take place. To adhere to stringent tolerance requirements, Framas HP lasts are manufactured using a Röders 5-axis milling machine. This advanced machinery replaces traditional finemilling machines. It has a robust construction, which minimises vibrations. Coupled with the precision offered by machines from Italian technology provider Newlast, this setup allows for a tolerance of plus or minus 0.03 millimetres.
Given the low tolerances and high standards, a 100% quality inspection process is also implemented, accompanied by detailed reports. Measurements can be conducted directly within the 5-axis milling machine, effectively eliminating human error in measurement.
Finally, each last is stamped for identification purposes during production, ensuring traceability.
Package of services
Extensive expertise in the footwear industry, Framas says, also helps position the group as an ideal partner for shoe manufacturers introducing direct-injection process. In addition to the development of lasts, its package of services includes the design and manufacturing of direct-injection tools and the supply of injection-moulded shoe components such as heel counters. By offering these services from a single source, it argues that it can ensure a central point of contact and maintain “extremely short communication paths” to enhance efficiency and collaboration. Operating globally at strategically advantageous production sites, including Indonesia and Vietnam, it is well-equipped to meet supply demands effectively, it says. The company’s international presence allows it to leverage local resources while maintaining high standards of quality and service.
To demonstrate the breadth of its product range and capabilities, Framas has worked with two partners, Taiwan-based last developer Yinhwa and Germanybased footwear technology developer Desma, to develop a shoe that it says showcases its innovative approach and technical expertise in footwear manufacturing. This collaboration highlights its commitment to delivering highquality solutions that are tailored to the needs of clients in the footwear industry, it claims.
Overview
Helen Kirkum combines sneaker culture with craftsmanship, using leftover shoes and deadstock to create unique designs.
Single-minded
Viewing the industry through a new lens was imperative to UK-based designer Helen Kirkum when she launched her own brand, Helen Kirkum Studio, and redefining the narrative around using virgin materials was central to that. The former University of Northampton and Royal College of Art student has had a keen eye for detail since beginning her footwear career, being crowned the first winner of the Cordwainers Footwear Student of the Year Award in 2014 for her “exceptional” designs.
After graduating, she took a role with adidas in Germany, returning home to set up her brand in 2019, focusing on using materials from discarded shoes, though a partnership with London-based sorter Traid. Single shoes that have become separated in transit, or faulty stock from brands, provide the raw material, which is painstakingly cleaned, matched and patched together to provide unique canvasses for the Palimpsest range. A recent decision to move the manufacturing to Portugal has meant the brand can scale sustainably and has enabled the shoes to be refined to make them more comfortable and the price lowered
Last year, Ms Kirkum became the first artist-inresidence at Birkenstock Studio, a community project based in London, that co-created a sofa from leftover Birkenstock leather. She was also nominated for Accessories Designer of the Year 2024 at the UK’s Fashion Awards.
What inspired you to use old shoes/deadstock for your sneakers range?
I’ve always been drawn to the stories embedded in objects, and sneakers, in particular, carry so much history, both personal and cultural. During my MA at the Royal College of Art, I started to deep-dive into how sneaker culture is so driven by newness, which was the polar opposite to my BA at Northampton, which was driven by craftmanship and longevity of traditional British manufacture. So, I wanted to see if I could bring a more circular perspective to the sneaker industry. Pushing the boundaries of whether I could reinterpret discarded sneakers into something new and meaningful, merging sustainability with design. During my time at adidas, I gained a deep appreciation for the engineering that goes into footwear, but I also became increasingly aware of the scale of the industry’s impact on waste and the environment.
Helen Kirkum aims to reconnect people with the craftsmanship and tactility of products that have been lost through mass production.
CREDIT: FRANCIS AUGUSTO
Can you tell us about the process and your partnership with Traid?
Teaming up with Traid was a game-changer for our process. Traid collects and sorts clothes and shoes that might otherwise go to waste. We collect single shoes that they can't resell in their shops, carefully dismantling the sneakers to harvest usable parts like the uppers, soles and unique design elements. Anything that can’t be used in the final product is either stored for potential future projects and product categories or responsibly disposed of by further recycling partners. It’s a labour-intensive process, but it’s also incredibly rewarding to transform what was once considered "trash" into something beautiful and wearable.
The Palimpsest V2 range, with a starting price of about £475, takes its inspiration from the warm, muted tones of the winter season. The collection introduces three fresh colourways: fig/silver, sand/stone, and charcoal/white.
CREDIT: RYAN BLACKWELL
Footwear is notoriously hard to recycle. What’s your vision for footwear consumption and recycling in the future?
Footwear recycling is undoubtedly a challenge because of the many materials fused together during manufacturing. My vision is to see more modular and circular approaches in footwear design, shoes that can be easily disassembled for recycling or repaired for longer life. Collaboration across the industry is key to making this happen. Imagine a world where every part of a shoe has a clearly defined second life and even multiple lives, whether through upcycling, recycling or biodegradation. It’s ambitious, but I believe innovation and collective action can get us there.
What made you move manufacturing to Portugal?
Portugal stood out to us because of its deep-rooted tradition in footwear craftsmanship and its commitment to ethical and sustainable manufacturing. The supplier we work with specialises in small-batch production, which aligns perfectly with our studio's values. I was impressed by their understanding and commitment to our upcycling ethos. Partnering with them has allowed us to maintain the handmade, artisanal feel of our designs while scaling up responsibly.
Can you tell us about the brand’s growth and what plans you have for the next few years?
The growth of Helen Kirkum Studio has been a mix of organic evolution and intentional expansion. Starting with bespoke, one-of-a-kind pieces gave us a solid foundation, and since launching our first collection, Palimpsest, in 2021, we’ve been steadily expanding our product range. We’re thrilled to see more people resonate with our vision of sustainable, storytelling footwear. Looking ahead, we plan to explore new collaborations and projects expanding our product categories.
Excitingly, I am focusing a lot of attention behind the scenes on ‘white label design’ and consultancy. I have learned so much in the pursuit of circular and sustainable sneaker and footwear production, so I am focusing a lot of my efforts on supporting other footwear businesses with their sustainable growth, meeting them where they are and setting out sustainable and creative goals together. As an industry, we all need to collaborate and support each other with the best interests of the planet at heart, so I am looking forward to working with new partners in 2025.
Tapping into new roots
The team at Yulex has been busy. The natural rubber specialist has revamped its foam offering for wetsuits – resulting in Decathlon launching the first 100% natural rubber polymer wetsuit suit last summer – and launched a textile filament of its purified natural rubber latex targeted at the stretch denim market and socks. But it also has its eye on the footwear sector, believing that, as part of sustainability commitments, brands are seeking to move away from petrochemical-based products and are looking for natural alternatives with traceable supply chains.
The company has its roots in US-based Yulex Corporation, which spent years developing natural rubbers from guayule shrubs in Arizona, aiming to establish a domestic supply chain. Founder Jeff Martin and his colleagues worked with outdoor brand Patagonia on an alternative to neoprene, and the companies launched guayule rubber-containing wetsuits in 2013.
Over the years, the company segued from guayule, with that technology commercialised by Bridgestone and Versalis, changing its raw material to latex extracted from rubber trees, Hevea, sourced from plantations in Sri Lanka and Guatemala. However, with most of the natural rubber producers located in Thailand and Vietnam, for Mr Martin and now-CEO Liz Bui – who was born in Vietnam but moved to the US as a child after the war – that meant a relocation. “In terms of carbon footprint, it didn’t make sense to move a large container to Southeast Asia,” Ms Bui tells us. “Most of the footwear companies have a huge presence in Vietnam and there's a lot of apparel moving there, too, so we wanted to develop a natural rubber supply chain closer to production. It just made sense to start thinking about how we can really help our customers, and transport is a huge part of any carbon reduction strategy.”
Certification process
Although smallholder farms provide 90% of the rubber in Thailand and about half in Vietnam, many were operating independently, so Mr Martin and Ms Bui partnered the Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification, Forest Trends Association, Vietnamese Academy of Forest Science, Vietnam Forest Certification Office and the Vietnamese Rubber Association, working collaboratively to make introductions and galvanise the smallholders.
“Together, we travelled all over Vietnam, talking to smallholders talking about sustainability and finding cooperatives and legal business entities to coordinate
Yulex believes a desire for options other than petrochemical-based raw materials will create opportunities in the footwear sector and its repositioning in Asia will help it capitalise on demand.
the sustainable forest practices and certification, so they could sell their rubber to processors.”
Yulex now works with more than 240 smallholders in Thailand and 1,500 in Vietnam. Each has registered land-use rights, dates of first tree plantings going back as far as 1940 in Thailand and 1994 in Vietnam, and geolocation coordinates of the plantation, through their smallholder cooperative. This means they will be compliant with the incoming EU Deforestation Regulation (EUDR), which requests proof that products do not contribute to deforestation or forest degradation. “For these smallholders, their livelihood and their household income is derived from their small plot of land, which is anywhere from 1 to 1.5 hectares, in their backyard,” adds Ms Bui. “After some 100 years of the natural rubber industry, this is still a cash business, yet you have groups who don't really have good access to banking or to credit. And as you move up the supply chain, it is the retail brands that make the largest margin and the person on the ground supplying the raw material that makes the least.” To help address this imbalance, Yulex set up an Equitable Agriculture profit-share programme to provide better security of income for the farmers.
Protein removal
Tree latex consists of an emulsion of water and rubber (or biopolymers) and non-rubber particles. The non-rubber particles consist of dirt, oil, proteins, metals and other impurities, which are removed. Removing the proteins also substantially removes the risk of Type 1 latex allergy responses. The purified latex is branded as Yulex Pure, and is used to make Yulastic filament and, in some instances, the foams. The change of supply chain also allowed the company to work with different producers and manufacturers, increasing the research and development to create upgraded products, which it launched last summer.
The foams are versatile; they can be made with various properties depending on the end product. Alongside the wetsuits, they have found a home in
TAPPING
Bog’s Boots insulate wearers against cold and wet conditions.
CREDIT: BOG’S BOOTS
bags, accessories and boots. Nutrition brand Sports Research last summer launched what it claims is the first natural rubber waist trainer while, earlier in the year, Scottish inland ‘surf resort’ Lost Shore announced all its wetsuits would be made from Yulex foam after their tests showed they were warmer than standard synthetic rubber suits. “Natural rubber is a very good polymer –consider that aeroplanes have to use 100% natural rubber for their tyres,” comments Ms Bui on its attributes. “It is really about performance first for us, but it also has a good sustainability story – that is a bonus.”
Footwear focus
There are clearly multiple factors affecting the choice of materials, including cost, ease of use, sustainability credentials and how they fit into existing manufacturing and supply chains. The price of both natural and synthetic rubbers fluctuates depending on supply and demand: natural rubber depends on crop yields among other things, while synthetic alternatives’ prices are based on petroleum values. Although it might take a long time, natural rubber biodegrades, depending on the
Ortholite’s Vietnam-based Cirql company introduced Cirql Zero, an industrially compostable and biodegradable foam innovation, at ISPO Munich as part of the ‘Disappearing Shoe’ concept section.
CREDIT: CIRQL
Yulex partner French brand Equipement De Vie was founded to address the need for shoes that meet sailors’ rigorous demands.
CREDIT: EQUIPEMENT DE VIE
level of vulcanisation or how much curing agent is in the product, whereas synthetics will not; there is already a big carbon reduction from choosing a natural product over one made from a non-renewable resource and the emissions associated with its extraction and manufacture, suggests Ms Bui.
As well as growing the filament business for socks and denim, the company is now focusing on increasing its footprint in the footwear industry. The foam material’s adaptability means it can be used for outsoles and insoles, as well as the foam in the collar and the tongue.
Early adopters for the Yulex foam include US brand Bogs Boots, UK-based Little Green Radicals and sailing shoe brand Equipement De Vie. At the December edition of ISPO Munich, Ortholite Cirql presented a ‘Zero’ concept shoe which had Yulex foam uppers (shoe tongue) as well as Yulex natural rubber outsoles. Brand partners in Vietnam are also helping to test the various formulas and performance attributes of Yulex products and materials in foams, outsoles and filament for knitted uppers.
“Footwear always used to be about natural rubber, but the industry has converted almost entirely to synthetic materials because they are cheaper and easier to work with; there's an exact chemistry, whereas with natural rubber there’s a lot of knowhow and expertise that's been lost, so we're trying to bring that back,” says Ms Bui. “But I think with the advent of sustainability, and the need to reduce carbon emissions, brands are wanting to try to move back to using natural products. What's going to be important is which brands adopt it first.”
The authorities in France are supporting footwear repair by lowering the value-added tax that service providers have to apply.
CREDIT: SHUTTERSTOCK
To repair is to care
Anational organisation representing shoe repair service providers across France, the Fédération Française de la Cordonnerie Multiservice (FFCM), has welcomed a tax change. Towards the end of 2024, France’s lower house of parliament, the Assemblée Nationale, voted in favour of lowering the rate of value-added tax (VAT) for repairs of shoes and leathergoods from 20% to 5.5%.
FFCM says this lower rate of VAT represents “true recognition of the key role that our artisans play in the preservation of our savoir-faire, and in the transition towards a more sustainable economic model”. There are more than 180 footwear repair specialists from all parts of France in FFCM’s membership. The organisation says it is taking encouragement from a change in consumer attitudes in recent years. It says consumers have become “more sensitive to environmental challenges” and are beginning to express a preference for products that are long-lasting and repairable. “Repair and, as a consequence, the shoe repair profession, are showing themselves as good alternatives to over-consumption,” FFCM insists. It celebrated a campaign that umbrella organisation Alliance France Cuir launched towards the end of 2024. This campaign highlighted the appeal that artisan skills and savoir-faire have for contemporary consumers. This appeal, FFCM says, is born of a desire among the people of today for quality and authenticity, and it says shoemakers and shoe repair experts have skills that
A lowering of tax on shoe repairs in France should convince more consumers of the benefits of renewing and reusing footwear as part of a more sustainable economic model.
can help people satisfy this desire. Their skills ought to stand them in good stead for years to come, the organisation argues.
Public service
One expert who aims to remain in shoe repair for the long haul is Marie-Élodie Chadaillac, who runs her own shop, Cordonnerie Sept Lieues, in Agen in south-west France. Sept Lieues means ‘seven leagues’, a reference to the seven-league boots made famous by collector of folklore and fairy-tales Charles Perrault.
Ms Chadaillac worked in the finance department of luxury brand Chanel for 13 years before branching out on her own, turning a passionate commitment to product durability and zero-waste into her daily work. She has told FFCM that she loves the interaction with customers who come into the shop, bringing shoes of all kinds, including athletic shoes, boots (she doesn’t say
“ Close contacts have said a repair service won’t be financially viable because customers are used to the throwaway culture; I think the exact opposite. ”
PHILIPPE ZORZETTO
if any seven-league boots have turned up yet) and leathergoods. She spends time with the owner of each product, sharing suggestions for allowing these objects to keep looking their best.
A further piece of advice that she has shared with FFCM is that women interested in this line of work should never be put off by the physical demands. Patience, the ability to think and pay close attention to detail are the key attributes that she identifies as important for a shoerepair artisan. Physical strength is secondary, she says, for a job that she views as “a bridge between the old and the new”.
Logical progression
Elsewhere in France, repair services are a new venture for 2025 at the high-end shoe brand that Philippe Zorzetto founded and runs. He made the announcement in January, pointing out that the decision flies in the face of advice that those closest to him have been keen to offer. “They have warned that this will mean selling fewer new shoes,” he says, “and that it won’t be financially viable because customers are used to the throwaway culture. Well, I think the exact opposite.”
He argues that offering to repair the shoes his customers buy is “a logical progression”. It is a progression that has taken some time. Philippe Zorzetto marked out his path into footwear as a child, listening to the tales of his grandfather, a shoe manufacturer from Veneto in northern Italy, who brought his dreams of setting up his own footwear brand to France. This was a dream that he was unable to fulfil directly, but his grandson made it come true, opening his workshop and boutique in the Parisian district of Le Marais in 2009.
“Creating my own footwear brand brings together everything that I love and everything that motivates me,” he says now. “That includes fashion, of course, but also influences from films and pop culture, as well as a love of
Patience, the ability to think and pay close attention to detail are the key attributes for a shoe-repair artisan.
CREDIT: SHUTTERSTOCK
vintage, of craftsmanship and of beautiful materials.”
Nevertheless, it was a big step for him because, he says, when he decided to enter the industry he knew no one in the fashion world, had no contacts among footwear manufacturers, no business partner and no money.
New materials
His father, a carpenter, had helped instil in the young Philippe Zorzetto a passion for drawing and, inspired by his grandfather, he found himself frequently drawing shoes. Sketches of an inaugural collection, boots, brogues and moccasins, were his starting point. Armed with his drawings and with a last that had belonged to his grandfather, he set out to build ties with a number of family-run, artisan shoe manufacturers in Spain and Italy. He spent time in their workshops and learned from them how to choose and cut leather, and how to construct a shoe from the pieces. These artisans also taught him the Blake construction method of using a chain stitch to attach the insole to the outer sole of the shoe.
In this way, that first collection became reality and a run-down workshop he chanced upon in Le Marais became the showcase for it (after his father had used his skill to carry out some repairs to the building). The business has grown from there and now numbers singer Matthieu Chedid and actors Jean Dujardin and Romain Duris among its regular customers. The designer says he is proud still to be working with a number of the familyrun manufacturing companies that taught him.
He reports no protests from these manufacturing partners over his decision to start providing repair services, too. Blake construction makes it possible to unstitch the insole from the outer sole and to resew with new materials as required. He makes the point again that this is a logical step to take, referring to it as a gesture of respect for customers, a move that is in keeping with his own values and “an obvious thing to do”.
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