The TechLoom Zipwire shoe from Athletic Propulsion Labs. Inspired by a zipwire adventure in Dubai and by pancakes in Tokyo, this is APL’s current bestseller.
CREDIT: APL
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02 Global News
Highlights from around the world of footwear. For news on shoes every day, go to footwearbiz.com, the best news website in the business.
04 Footprints
People making an impact on the industry: designers, industry leaders and famous footwear lovers.
06 Industry & Innovation
Details of innovations from suppliers and service providers across the globe.
MATERIALS, MANUFACTURING & INNOVATION
08 After the ban
After the NBA banned its first shoe because it deemed the boost to each wearer’s leap to be an unfair advantage, Athletic Propulsion Labs has bounced back and gone from strength to strength.
12 Fertile ground
A new product from specialist open-cell foam technology developer Cirql adds biodegradability to the properties its midsole materials can promise footwear brands.
14 Minimum waste
Augmented reality is driving improvements in Zünd’s leather-cutting technology, helping finished product brands minimise waste.
16 Right side of the regulations
Footwear technology and research institute PFI has compiled a useful summary of the regulations that shoe companies must address in the wake of the European Commission’s Green Deal.
20 Voice of youth
Puma has promised to listen to the voices of Generation Z consumers and to take their perspectives and recommendations on sustainability into account in its material choices. 24 Preferred outcomes
Athletic footwear brand New Balance has amended its in-house definitions of ‘preferred materials’ following careful scrutiny of supply chain data.
Update addresses unfairness
An overhaul of the Higg Materials Sustainability Index has resulted in a fairer reflection of the impact of leather, cotton and other natural fibres.
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Global news
France Handmade shoe producer La Botte Gardiane has launched a platform for consumers to buy pre-owned pairs of its footwear. The company, based in the south of France, said it was proud to launch the initiative as part of its commitment to durability and respect for the environment. “Long-lasting products are not an abstract idea for us,” the company said. “It is something tangible. We invite our customers to consider our second-hand platform as a way of taking part in conscious and sustainable fashion by giving products a second life.”
• Deckers-owned running footwear brand Hoka has inaugurated a second retail location in the French capital. After a first store, opened last April in the Opera quarter, the brand is now joining a growing crowd of outdoor and activewear brands that have chosen the Marais quarter to set up shop. The new space, measuring close to 300 square-metres and featuring a striking glass roof, presents the brand’s entire range for sports and leisure.
UK The trade body that represents, promotes and protects the UK leather industry, Leather UK, has announced footwear and accessories group Tapestry as its newest member. Tapestry said the move underscored its commitment to sustainability, transparency and responsible sourcing. Director of Leather UK, Dr Kerry Senior, said the organisation would work with Tapestry to strengthen collective efforts to establish “a more sustainable and innovative future for the leather industry”.
Finland Amer Sports has reported full-year revenues for 2024 of almost $5.2 billion, an increase of 18% compared to the previous year. Technical apparel brought in almost $2.2 billion for the group, whose brands include Arc’Teryx, Salomon, Wilson and Peak Performance, an increase of 36% year on year. Revenues from its outdoor performance segment were $1.8 billion, while ball and racket sports brought in more than $1.1 billion, increases of 10% and 4%, respectively.
Belgium The Federation of the European Sporting Goods Industry (FESI) has expressed support for European Commission efforts “to streamline sustainability reporting”. FESI said the Commission’s commitment would “improve regulatory clarity and reduce administrative burdens for businesses”, while maintaining progress toward a sustainable future. It said it was crucial that regulatory changes do not introduce new legal obligations that could increase compliance costs, especially for the small and medium enterprises that make up 75% of its members.
Germany Footwear brand Birkenstock has reported revenues of €362 million for the first quarter of its current financial year, the three months ending December 31, 2024. It said this figure was an increase of 19% year on year. Revenues were up by 16% to €210.7 million in the Americas, up by 17% to €102.7 million in Europe, and up by 47% to €47.1 million in Asia. Chief executive, Oliver Reichert, said Birkenstock clogs, shoes and boots were in demand. He added that these products had proved popular as gift options over the Christmas season.
• The performance materials division of BASF has completed a project to install renewable energy at all of its European sites. By January 1 this year, all of the group’s performance materials sites in Europe had switched to renewable electricity. Nine sites in total have been involved in this switch, factories in which BASF makes engineering plastics, polyurethanes, thermoplastic polyurethanes and specialty polymers. BASF said it will convert all of its operations globally to renewable electricity in the next few years.
Colombia The forty-ninth edition of the International Footwear & Leather Show (IFLS) closed in Bogotá on February 7. On this occasion, there were 430 exhibitors, 41 of which were from outside Colombia. Across the four days of the show, just over 10,000 visitors attended. Organisers said these figures showed that IFLS is one of the most important events in the region for the leather and footwear industries. In 2023, there were more than 480 exhibitors, but visitor numbers were closer to 8,000.
US Authentic Brands has announced that specialist athletic footwear licensing group Galaxy is taking over Reebok’s footwear operation, retail stores and e-commerce operations in the US. Galaxy will also lead Reebok’s global product creation, design, and sourcing. In addition, a new joint venture between Galaxy and licensing partner Batra will oversee Reebok’s operations in Europe. The new joint venture will be called GB Brands Europe. Reebok’s headquarters will continue to be in Boston.
India Footwear brand Ecco is expanding its footprint in India with the launch of its first signature store at Mumbai’s Phoenix Palladium. Since entering the Indian market in 2019, Ecco has seen consistent growth, driven by a rising demand for its footwear. Country manager of Ecco India, Sumeet Lohia, credits this success to the increasing appeal of premium brands and a loyal customer base, with 50% of sales coming from repeat customers.
Vietnam Automotive components supplier Toyoda Gosei has teamed up with footwear brand ASICS to produce the Skyhand OG sneakers using leather remnants generated in the steering wheel manufacturing process. Toyoda Gosei has been recycling its waste materials by selling products under the Re-S ethical brand, transforming difficult-to-recycle airbag fabric and steering wheel leather remnants into bags, pencil cases and shoes. Steering wheel punching remnants generated at Toyoda’s Vietnamese factory have been put to use at an ASICS footwear manufacturing partner, also in Vietnam.
Japan Japan-based athletic footwear and apparel brand ASICS has reported revenues equivalent to more than $4.4 billion for the 12 months ending December 31, 2024. This represents an increase of 18.9% year on year. Revenues from the group’s performance running category were more than $2.1 billion, up by 14.3% compared to the figure for 2023. Other highlights included revenues of $630 million for its Onitsuka Tiger brand, a growth of 58.2% year on year.
Taiwan Footwear brand Salomon has launched a recyclable shoe made with polyester from Taiwanese performance materials maker Far Eastern New Century. The material is biorecycled from complex PET waste by French firm Carbios. The XT_PU.RE's upper has been reengineered in two pieces, featuring the recycled PET fibres with a TPU sole. Carbios broke down the PET waste into its original monomers, PTA and MEG, which were then repolymerised by FENC into PET fibres and spun into filaments, followed by a dyeing process.
Footprints
CEO says Wolverine has ‘turned the page’
Footwear group Wolverine Worldwide has reported full-year revenues of $1.75 billion for 2024. It represents a decline of 21.8% compared to the 2023 figures, but the group has pointed out that the comparison is skewed by recent sales of some parts of its business.
Wolverine sold its Keds brand in February 2023, the US part of its leathers business in August 2023, the non-US part of the leathers business in December 2023, and the Sperry brand in January 2024.
It pointed to a narrower gap between the two years, taking into account fourth-quarter results in isolation. In the last quarter of 2024, its revenues were just under $495 million, down by 6.1% year on year.
Chief executive, Chris Hufnagel, said: “As we begin 2025, our brands are poised to continue to build on our momentum, standing on a much healthier foundation, with stronger product pipelines and compelling storytelling. Our team is encouraged by the work we’ve accomplished together and excited to turn the page.”
Separately, Wolverine has created the role of chief strategy officer and has appointed Brett Parent, who has worked at the group for almost 20 years, to the role.
After a series of marketing roles at Wolverine Worldwide, Brett Parent moved into strategy roles at the group in 2015. This led, in 2023, to his taking up the role of vice-president of strategy.
Now, as Wolverine’s first chief strategy officer, he will have responsibility for developing and driving group strategy, assessing growth opportunities and leading a strategy team. He will also lead its consumer marketing team.
Agreement in place for Caleres to acquire Stuart Weitzman
Footwear group Caleres has signed a definitive agreement to acquire the Stuart Weitzman brand from Tapestry. It said it will pay $105 million for the deal, “subject to customary adjustments”, and that the acquisition cements its “leadership position in women’s fashion footwear, particularly in the contemporary segment of the market”.
Chief executive of Caleres, Jay Schmidt, said he had long admired Stuart Weitzman for the brand’s “pivotal role in shaping the footwear industry”. He said Caleres was committed to preserving its legacy of craftsmanship, quality and fit, “while driving it forward”.
His counterpart at Tapestry, Joanne Crevoiserat, said the Stuart Weitzman brand and its teams had added “to the passion, creativity and craftsmanship of our organisation over the last decade”.
But she added that Tapestry wanted to “maintain a sharp focus” on its largest value-creation opportunities and that this sale would allow the group “to sustain Coach’s leadership and momentum while reinvigorating Kate Spade”. The transaction is expected to close in the summer of 2025.
Chief executive appointment at JD Outdoor
Sports and outdoor retail group JD Sports has confirmed that it has appointed Dominic Jordan as the new chief executive of JD Outdoor.
Its outdoor division comprises Go Outdoors, Blacks and Millets and has annual sales revenues of around £550 million.
Mr Jordan joins JD Outdoor from retail group Hobbycraft, where he was chief executive from 2017 to August 2024, when the business was sold to new owners.
In his new job, he will replace Lee Bagnall, who will step down after 12 years in the role, although he will remain at the company for a period to help with transition.
Favorite Daughter steps into footwear
US fashion brand Favorite Daughter, co-owned by sisters Erin and Sara Foster and Centric Brands, is launching its first footwear collection in conjunction with shoe group Caleres.
The sisters worked with Natelle Baddeley, Caleres chief design and product officer, to design loafers, sneakers, ballets, heeled pumps and boots made from nappas, exotic leathers, satins, velvets and suedes. Their shoes will retail from $195 to $495.
Steve Madden acquires Kurt Geiger brand
US based brand Steve Madden has announced it will acquire UK-based fashion brand Kurt Geiger for approximately £289 million ($363 million) in cash.
The acquisition is expected to be finalised in the second quarter of 2025, subject to regulatory approvals and other standard conditions. Founded in 1963 on London’s Bond Street by shoe and handbag specialists Kurt and Olga Geiger, Kurt Geiger has grown into a global brand, operating around 70 stores worldwide
Antoine Griezmann admires Decathlon’s commitment to sport for all
French national team and Atlético Madrid attacker Antoine Griezmann has signed a new partnership deal with Decathlon brand Kipsta.
The player has been wearing Kipsta boots since the end of 2024 and has already scored nine goals wearing the new footwear, three of them in Europe’s top club competition, the UEFA Champions League.
Decathlon has now announced that, as well as wearing Kipsta boots in matches, Antoine Griezmann will play a role in helping to design new models. He said he was delighted to be working with Decathlon, saying that he admired the group’s commitment to making football and other sports “accessible for all”.
Fashion for good advances footwear circularity
Fashion for Good has announced ‘Closing the Footwear Loop’, a collaborative initiative aimed at addressing circularity challenges in the footwear industry. Bringing together 14 leading brands, including adidas, Puma, Dr Martens, and Tommy Hilfiger, the project seeks to transition footwear from a linear ‘take-make-dispose’ model to a circular system.
The footwear industry produces approximately 23.8 billion pairs of shoes annually, with 90% ending up in landfills. The complexity of footwear design, which often includes over 60 different materials, has hindered recycling and circularity efforts.
This initiative, in collaboration with The Footwear Collective, Global Footwear Future Coalition (GFFC), and Global Fashion Agenda, will focus on key intervention points such as waste stream mapping, circular design principles, and end-of-use innovations. The project will deliver a European footwear waste assessment (2025), a roadmap for circular footwear design (2025), and trials for recycled materials (2026).
Fashion for Good’s managing director, Katrin Ley, emphasised the urgency of systemic change, stating that the initiative represents a crucial step towards reimagining how footwear is designed, used, and disposed of.
Actor signs up with Berluti for France-Italy dialogue
Film, television and theatre actor Victor Belmondo has signed up to work on a new collection with Berluti. The collection comprises clothing, including a calfskin leather blouson jacket, bags, and shoes.
The brand said it shared with Victor Belmondo a dual French-Italian heritage, bringing together the histories, traditions and savoir-faire of each culture.
A shoemaker from Le Marche, Alessandro Berluti, founded the brand in Paris in 1895. Victor Belmondo is from a famous French acting family with Italian roots, while his mother, a television chef, is originally from Rome.
“Victor Belmondo personifies the Berluti spirit,” said the brand’s chief executive, Jean-Marc Mansvelt, “that fusion of heritage and modernity, elegance and audacity.”
For his part, Victor Belmondo said helping to write Berluti’s next chapter was like a shared dialogue between France and Italy.
Action areas at Micam
The Micam X trends area, curated by consultancy Spin360 at the February edition of Micam, focused on four key theme areas: art, fashion, heritage and future; trends and materials; sustainability; and the future of retail.
Micam is preparing for its 100th edition this September. Giorgio Possagno, CEO of Micam, said: “Through important investments planned in our industrial strategy, we aim to strengthen our positioning as the premier event that guarantees new commercial opportunities for our exhibitors. Indeed, we have new initiatives in store that will guide us toward a new project to be unveiled in the coming months, designed to enhance the identity and centrality of the event.”
A partnership to help build Mizuno football
Japan-based sports company Mizuno has added footballer João Félix to its list of brand ambassadors.
Mizuno said that this partnership would play “a strategic role in building the future of Mizuno football”. It said the player would contribute to the development of performance football boots at the company. It will also use his feedback for future product development.
Call for papers for UITIC 2025 World Congress
The International Union of Shoe Industry Technicians (UITIC) has launched a call for papers for its twenty-second World Congress, which will take place in Shanghai from August 31- September 3.
It has invited researchers, academics, and industry professionals to submit ideas for papers on a wide range of topics related to footwear manufacturing, technology and sustainability. Interested parties have until April 11 to submit an abstract. President of UITIC, Sergio Dulio, said: “The future of footwear lies at the intersection of AI-driven innovation and sustainable practices. This conference will explore how companies can leverage both to thrive in a rapidly evolving market and shape a more sustainable future for the industry.”
Industry & Innovation
Winter edition of the Agravic shoe from Terrex
Adidas brand Terrex has brought to market a new trail-running shoe, the Agravic Gore-Tex. It has described the shoe as a “winterised edition” of its Agravic model, saying it wanted to create a shoe that would enable trail runners “to enjoy the feeling of running fast on trails, no matter the weather”. It has a Gore-Tex Invisible Fit membrane laminated to the upper material, plus a collar to help keep feet dry and to prevent debris from coming into the shoe. It also has a rubber outsole with lugs of 4 and 5 millimetres for high levels of grip, even in wet conditions. The sole comes from Continental, a company best known now for its car tyres, but which started out in business in 1873 making soles for footwear. As in earlier versions of the Agravic, Terrex has used a proprietary Lightstrike midsole.
Lineapelle is part of Assomac’s world tour
Italian leather and footwear machinery manufacturers’ association Assomac has said its presence at Lineapelle in Milan (February 25-27) constituted another leg on a tour of the world that the organisation is making in the first half of 2025.
It said its ‘Assomac Around the World’ programme had begun in Chennai for the India International Leather Fair (February 1-3), was continuing at Lineapelle, and would then move on to Hong Kong for APLF (March 12-14) and to Lahore for the Pakistan Footwear, Material & Machinery Show (April 11-13).
Assomac said this initiative would help “reinforce the process of internationalisation” of its member companies’ business.
It added that ‘Assomac Around the World’ was aligned with the work of Italy’s export promotions agency, ICE.
DSC celebrates 80th anniversary
Performance foam manufacturer Dahsheng Chemical (DSC) is commemorating its 80th anniversary at this year’s Materials Show, highlighting eight decades of advancements in foam technology and engineering.
Established in 1945, the company has evolved from a small operation into a global producer known for developing high-performance foam solutions used across various industries.
Its products have played a role in supporting industries, athletes, and consumers with specialised materials that enhance functionality and durability. This milestone coincides with the Materials Show celebrating its 30th year as a key event for materials innovation and industry collaboration.
Pause for OutDoor exhibition
Industry representative body the European Outdoor Group (EOG) and its partner event organiser Messe München have announced that the 2025 edition of the OutDoor event will not go ahead. It was scheduled to take place in Munich from May 19-21.
Four months before the announcement, the organisers outlined a new concept for OutDoor, saying this was underpinned by “a 20-20-20 commitment” from show partners. This referred to a pledge to increase brand exhibitors by 20% and retail visitors by 20%, while decreasing the cost for participation by 20%.
On February 13, EOG director, Christian Schneidermeier, said the number of registrations to date indicated that attempts to meet the 20-20-20 goal for OutDoor 2025 would fall short.
Materials Show marks 30 years
The Materials Show, an event showcasing the latest innovations in apparel and footwear materials, marked its 30th anniversary with the opening of its Northwest (NW) edition in Portland, Oregon, on February 12. Organised by American Events, Inc., the show brought together over 250 exhibitors occupying more than 300 booths at the Oregon Convention Centre.
American Events expressed pride in the milestone, stating the event celebrates “three decades of innovation, collaboration, and industry leadership.” The Materials Show originated in 1995 through a partnership with Nike, leading to the creation of the NW Apparel & Footwear Materials Show. In 2015, the event expanded to Boston through a collaboration with New Balance, resulting in the Northeast (NE) Materials Show.
Net-zero-carbon shoe goes on sale
Footwear brand Allbirds is bringing its Moonshot Zero shoe to market in a very limited run.
A total of 500 pairs of what the brand calls the world’s first net-zero-carbon shoe will go on sale
Micam 99 offers creativity and resilience
Around 850 companies – half of them Italian – presented autumn-winter 25-26 footwear collections at the 99th edition of Micam in Milan (February 23 to 25). This event’s theme was “game changers”, representing the footwear industry’s ability to “face change with courage while maintaining a strong bond with tradition”.
“The world of footwear is complex; it always requires new professionals, a visionary approach to the supply chain, creativity in inventing new styles, and a deep respect for a history of excellence,” said Giovanna Ceolini, president of Micam and shoemakers’ association Assocalzaturifici.
“Last year ended with a decline in exports (-8.4% in value) and turnover (-9.4%), along with a drop in production. However, forecasts indicate a gradual market improvement by the end of this year, with recovery prospects driven by the industry’s capacity for innovation and resilience.”
Micam turns to AI for footwear trends
For the first time, footwear trade show Micam used artificial intelligence (AI) to put together its trends forecast at the February 2025 edition of the event. It worked on this in partnership with AI company Livetrend.
Through the analysis of social media, e-commerce and fashion shows, combined with AI and big data, the show’s trends guide aimed to optimise purchasing decisions for its approximately 40,000 visitors.
It highlighted four macro-trends:
Utopian Utility: A blend of functionality and understated elegance, featuring materials like suede and matte rubberised finishes, combined with details inspired by urban trekking and the #gorpcore aesthetic, emphasising the softer side of the trend
Twisted Classics: A modern take on vintage styles, drawing on retro influences, nostalgic tones and bold shapes to celebrate originality and the rebellious spirit of youth
Meditative Artisans: A fusion of craftsmanship and spirituality, marking the return of bohemian style with materials such as aged leathers and rustic finishes
Wondrous Daze: An alternative aesthetic inspired by fantastical worlds, with dark, romantic and rebellious accents.
Standout materials for the season include velvets, polished leathers and decorative details like studs and crystals, according to the guide.
A first for Oboz as Gore-Tex goes into updated collection
Montana-based outdoor footwear brand Oboz has updated its Katabatic shoe collection for spring 2025.
One part of this is adding the Invisible Fit laminate technology from Gore-Tex to the shoes. This is the first time Oboz has used breathable, water-resistant technology from Gore in its shoes.
Director of product management and design at Oboz, Dan Wehunt, described Gore-Tex technology as “the gold standard” in breathable moisture protection, and said Invisible Fit was “a huge improvement” in making footwear waterproof.
He added that Oboz had worked closely with the team at Gore to integrate the technology into the Katabatic collection.
Gore presents the benefits of Invisible Fit as technology that uses a PFAS-free membrane and has 70% recycled content. It bonds directly to the upper lining of the shoe providing better fit, feel and comfort than earlier versions of membrane technology. In addition, the new technology is lighter and dries faster.
For spring 2025, Oboz and Gore have worked together to create mid-height shoes for the Katabatic collection, in addition to the low-shoe designs of earlier versions of the collection.
in five cities worldwide this spring. Its claims are based on its use of regeneratively farmed wool for the woven upper. Wool marketing body New Zealand Merino Company said the wool for the shoes was certified under the ZQRX regenerative wool platform, which it launched at the start of 2021. It went on to single out a ranch near Lake Hawea on New Zealand’s South Island as the source of the wool.
“We are proud to be partners with Allbirds,” New Zealand Merino Company said, “and hope this achievement inspires more brands to take on bold pursuits.”
Women-only tennis shoe
Wilson Sporting Goods has introduced the Intrigue Tour, its first high-performance tennis shoe designed exclusively for women.
The shoe was developed with input from athletes, including professional tennis player Marta Kostyuk, and aims to provide a specialised fit, comfort, and support for the modern game.
The Intrigue features three key technologies: UltraShield, a breathable mesh; FootFrame, a support system that adjusts to different foot shapes; and SwiftStep, a responsive sockliner for enhanced movement. Wilson states that the design is based on a study of women's foot structure and preferences, leading to a new fit standard for its women's tennis footwear.
Wilson Sportswear president Gordon Devin described the launch as part of the company’s ongoing focus on developing products for female athletes.
High rebound
Footwear materials developer OrthoLite has introduced Float, a high-rebound, lightweight insole designed for comfort across various footwear categories. With over 38% resilience, it offers immediate step-in comfort, moisture management, and long-lasting performance.
Ideal for casual, athletic, and dress shoes, its high rebound and cushioning work well in thinner profiles. OrthoLite Float can also incorporate Hybrid technology for increased recycled content.
APL’s current bestseller, the TechLoom Zipwire. A zipwire experience in Dubai inspired the upper, while the stimulus for the foam midsole was the fluffy, light texture of Japanese pancakes.
APL
A ban by the NBA for Athletic Propulsion Labs’ first shoe came as a shock to the twin brothers who launched the start-up fresh from college, but it has turned out to be blessing in disguise.
Propelled forward
An official communication from the National Basketball Association (NBA) in October 2010 caused consternation in the small office that footwear brand Athletic Propulsion Labs (APL) had at the time. The company, the brainchild of twin brothers Adam and Ryan Goldston had launched only the year before and had been selling its debut product, a shoe called the Concept 1, for just four months when the message from the NBA arrived. Its purpose was to make clear to APL that the shoe was banned and athletes were not allowed to wear it in official matches.
Lifelong basketball enthusiasts, the twins had also played at a high level, representing the University of Southern California (USC) in intercollegiate competitions. They had developed a technology called Load ’N Launch and incorporated it into the Concept 1 shoe. This technology, now patented, consists of a device housed in a cavity at the front of the shoe, which first compresses as the athlete steps forward and then releases the stored energy when the wearer jumps.
A diving-board for feet
APL presents the device as a top plate and a bottom plate connected at one end by a hinge-pin. The top plate has holes to allow air transfer for comfort and better compression. Between the two plates, there is a layer of EVA foam, which provides cushioning and energy return and which holds in place a series of springs. Many attempts to use technology to put an extra spring in people’s step have focused on the heel of the shoe. Load ’N Launch is very deliberately positioned in the forefoot. “We thought there was a big opportunity in putting the technology there,” Adam Goldston says. “That’s where all the action is when you are jumping.”
He describes Load ’N Launch as a diving-board for feet. “It’s a spring-based system,” he explains. “The
“ We thought there was a big opportunity in putting the technology in the forefoot; that’s where all the action is when you are jumping. ”
ADAM GOLDSTON
device compresses when you put pressure on it and, when you jump, it releases the pressure and propels you upwards. The average athlete immediately notices an increase of between one and three inches [between 2.5 and 7.5 centimetres] in their leap.” But the 2010 message from the NBA appeared to put at risk the company’s plans for bounding into the busy athletic shoe marketplace with this innovation. The organisation said its decision to ban the Concept 1 was based on league rules, under which players may not wear any shoe during a game “that creates an undue competitive advantage”.
Dreams of dunking
Initially, a silence fell in the APL office; the entire team (four people at that time, including the founders) was at a loss about what to do in response to the ban. Then, Ryan Goldston sought and received sage advice from a university professor, whose public relations course he had attended at USC. Like all good PR professionals, the faculty member soon found a way of turning the NBA’s disappointing decision to APL’s advantage. Yes, basketball officialdom had banned the shoes, but in doing so, it had confirmed something the company had wanted to tell the world from the outset: the footwear and the technology inside it promised wearers an advantage.
According to Adam Goldston, many basketball fans and players, in their imaginations at least, are only “one inch away from dunking”. They imagine themselves sailing through the air, ball in hand, ready to score, like Vince Carter at the Sydney 2000 Olympics. The APL cofounder says he remembers his own first dunk very well and that the brand wants lots of others to have the same feeling. “We were obsessed with dunking and with jumping as high as we possibly could,” he says of his twin brother and himself. To have the NBA confirm the results of lab tests APL had already carried out, and to suggest that the Concept 1 was a shoe that could provide the extra lift people craved made an instant impact.
Blessing in disguise
Thus, the ban became a blessing in disguise. Being able to communicate this advantage to dunking hopefuls, with the inadvertent backing of no less a body than the NBA, quickly rekindled the company’s ambitions for success. “We put out a press release and our lives changed,” Adam Goldston continues. “Within ten days, a million articles had been written about us and we sold nine months of inventory in three days. We used the
money to buy future inventory and that has fuelled everything else we’ve been able to do since.”
Much has happened at the company in the 15 years that have followed the ban. Highlights include TechLoom. This technology, which uses performance fibres to weave a seamless, one-piece upper for each shoe, first launched in 2014. APL says this technology has been a key component of many of its successful shoe launches in recent years. The “tons of iterations” that it has introduced include UV-charged and 3D-stretch versions of TechLoom, and one for Formula One (APL is the official footwear partner of the Oracle Red Bull Racing team) that is fire- and abrasion-resistant.
In 2018, APL brought out the TechLoom Breeze Merino Wool shoe, describing it as its most sustainable and lightest running shoe to date. It teamed up with wool promotions body The Woolmark Company to create the product, which is made from 80% Australian merino wool. It was the first technical-knit footwear to be certified by The Woolmark Company.
Adam (left) and Ryan Goldston, co-founders of footwear brand Athletic Propulsion Labs and developers of the Load ’N Launch technology that has been banned by the NBA.
Pandemic projects
Another TechLoom shoe, the Zipline, is the brand’s current bestseller. This shoe comes from two personal experiences that the twins had in the build-up to its creation. During a trip to Dubai in 2019, they went ziplining over the city, which, Ryan Goldston says, “felt like flying”. The second experience was one day walking extensively in Tokyo and stopping off to sample fluffy Japanese pancakes.
When the covid-19 lockdowns hit, he and his cofounder frequently found themselves talking about the travel experiences they could no longer enjoy and reminiscing about trips that brought back happy memories, including those to Dubai and Tokyo. From this, the TechLoom Zipline was born. “We decided we should design a shoe on which the upper would make the wearer feel free, the way we did on the zipline experience,” he explains. “The TechLoom makes it possible for you to feel the air running over you, and the upper also has support that reminds you of the harness for a zipline.” For the midsole, he continues, the company created a light, soft, fluffy construction, now called FutureFoam. “We had to learn how to make the pancakes first,” Ryan Goldston makes clear, “and that was the inspiration for the foam.”
Bridge between performance and luxury
APL designs, he continues, always start with the functional aspects, but the aesthetics matter, too. “We have always believed that performance at the highest level is really beautiful,” he says. “Sport and
APL’s aim is to be a bridge between performance and luxury. It drew inspiration for its flagship store in New York from the way Audemars Piguet presents its watches.
performance constitute one pillar of what we do, and luxury and fashion are the other pillar. We want to sit in the centre and be a bridge between them. We want to create beautiful, performance products.”
At the end of 2023, the brand extended this idea to an entire store, the one it opened on Prince Street in SoHo in New York. Shoes here are in tastefully lit, individual presentation cases set into the wall. Imported onyx, marble and other materials provide a taste of luxury in the store’s five ‘vanity rooms’, where customers can try the products on. The Goldston brothers modelled the presentation of their products in the SoHo store on watch brand Audemars Piguet, whose famous Royal Oak sports watch is a particular inspiration for APL. The watch is a performance product that belongs in the luxury world as well, according to the description the APL founders have come up with. They believe their shoes can achieve this, too.
The Concept 1 shoe is still banned, but all this has done is propel APL forward.
Note: Adam and Ryan Goldston were among the speakers at the 2025 CES event in Las Vegas.
Spanbond Spanbond
Stitchless Stitchless
SINGLE & MULTILAYER THERMOPLASTIC ADHESIVES
Ecobond Ecobond
JellyBond JellyBond
Scalable, biodegradable midsole materials
An almost three-year quest at OrthoLite’s Cirql division to add a biodegradable midsole material to its recyclable offering is complete. It launched Cirql Zero at the end of 2024 and promptly picked up an ISPO BrandNew Award for the innovation. Here, Cirql general manager, Matt Thwaites, explains the work that went into this.
On the face of it, endowing Cirql Zero with durability and also with more than 90% biodegradability within 180 days may seem like a contradiction. What is involved in achieving both at the same time?
Firstly, it is important to note that Cirql Zero is biodegradable in industrial composting conditions. Industrial composting centres will use a very specific blend of soil nutrients, organisms, humidity and temperature conditions to achieve composting. It’s important to note this; consumers will not be able to replicate these conditions in their homes. So that’s point number one: Cirql Zero must be industrially composted. Of equal importance is the amount of testing that has
been performed on Cirql Zero. Our products are fully tested for hydrolysis and many other footwear tests to ensure performance throughout the life of the midsole. We invest in rigorous testing to ensure that the shoe Cirql Zero is part of will not be adversely affected by the biodegradable nature of the midsole.
Without giving away any state secrets, what are the main technical differences between Cirql Zero and previous iterations of your midsole materials?
Cirql Zero is a brand-new product, different from anything we have developed prior to this. The team has been working on Cirql Zero rigorously for the last 12 months. It is a different process, a different recipe and a different technology from the other products and iterations that the team has worked on in the past. Cirql Zero is a biodegradable, industrially compostable midsole that is scalable using existing technology in the footwear industry and is affordable. It is in line with the price point of existing cross-linked solutions that are not recyclable or compostable.
The manufacturer describes Cirql Zero as a biodegradable, industrially compostable midsole that is “affordable and scalable”, using technology that the footwear industry already has.
CREDIT: ORTHOLITE/CIRQL
What is the current appetite among major footwear brands for compostability and biodegradability in the materials they use? What drives their interest in this?
Every brand that we have spoken to has some form of sustainability goal for their product, whether that be recyclability or compostability. In the past, solutions available to brands were not scalable or affordable, or their greenhouse gas footprint was too high. We’ve worked diligently to ensure that Cirql Zero addresses all of these points, and we have achieved that. It is now our point of difference. The interest level from our global brand partners continues to skyrocket. The demand is driven from the voice of the customer because today’s consumers are very aware of the damage that some products do to the environment. It is widely reported that most of the 28 billion pairs of shoes that are produced every year will end up in landfill sites and will stay there for hundreds of years. Why? Because most of the shoes are made with cross-linked materials that cannot biodegrade. This is what Cirql Zero solves, and we’re so proud of the positive impact we can help our brand partners make with our new midsole material.
How does this compare with demand for recyclability at the moment? In your opinion, what are the roadblocks in footwear recycling that make alternative end-of-life options important?
Some brands are focused on offering a shoe with a fully recyclable story, while others are focused on launching footwear with a compostable story. This is why we offer Cirql rTPU30 for fully recyclable, and Cirql Zero for biodegradable and compostable. The roadblocks for footwear recycling remain twofold. Firstly, shoes are constructed in a way that makes it very difficult to deconstruct them, and they are made from components that are comprised of different raw materials, making it difficult and costly to recycle without deconstruction. The other roadblock is the platforms and recycling centres. These are either very difficult to find or very expensive. More recycling options in each region would make this easier. Cirql will partner both with recycling companies and industrial composting centres all over the world to create efficiencies.
The European Commission’s Ecodesign for Sustainable Product Regulation (ESPR) will soon come into application for large footwear companies, with one of its main aims being to discourage the destruction of unsold products. Our reading of the ESPR guidelines so far is that an unsold shoe could go into the ground if this were “the most environmentally friendly alternative”. Is this good news or bad news for Cirql Zero?
One of the reasons we continue to develop a range of technologies is to support our brand partners in meeting global sustainability regulations. This includes the upcoming ESPR requirements for increased use of recycled materials and improved end-of-life management. While disposal options will depend on the design of the whole shoe, Cirql Zero is focused on delivering key components that align with these evolving requirements well ahead of regulatory
timelines. All of this is in support of our brand partners. We are closely monitoring ESPR to ensure that our technologies support compliance pathways that brands are likely to prioritise.
It is coming up on three years since Cirql’s launch and 18 months since your arrival. In that time, how has Cirql’s standing in the footwear materials sector, and in the wider OrthoLite set-up, developed? What are the most important changes that have taken place?
Since joining Cirql, my team has pivoted from a oneproduct, one-process solution to commercialising two families of products: solutions for fully recyclable and compostable end-of-life streams for footwear. We have invested in new technology and filed multiple patent applications for our new processes. We have also successfully launched our first two products in rTPU30 for recyclability and Cirql Zero for compostability. Additionally, we have gained a great deal of recognition from our brand partners for our Global Recycled Standard (GRS) certification for the Cirql Plant in Vietnam. And, saving the best for last, Cirql was awarded an ISPO BrandNew Award in December 2024, for a concept called ‘Disappearing Shoe’, which uses Cirql Zero. Our global brand partners remain excited and committed to the journey of sustainable midsole solutions. This is an exciting time as we are now starting to develop these midsole solutions for brands.
General manager of Cirql, Matt Thwaites, receiving an ISPO BrandNew Award for Cirql Zero in Munich in December 2024.
CREDIT: ISPO MUNICH
ALL CREDITS: ZÜND
Innovation in digital leather processing
Swiss-based cutting technology provider Zünd recently unveiled further innovative solutions for the leather industry, showcasing advances in automation, precision, and workflow efficiency. These, including the compact G3 cutter and augmented reality (AR)-assisted interactive nesting, mark significant progress in the adoption of smart factory principles in wider leather processing. With a focus on digitisation and sustainability, they continue to redefine production standards in an industry that balances tradition with technological skill.
The introduction of interactive nesting using augmented reality (AR) demonstrates the transformative potential of digital tools in leather processing. Described by Zünd as “an interactive experience that augments the real world with computer-generated perceptual information and combines the physical environment with virtual elements”, AR has been widely adopted in industries, such as gaming, training, and manufacturing, and its application in the wider leather handling industries addresses the unique challenges of working with natural materials, including irregularities, variable textures, and treated surfaces.
Using AR glasses, operators can visualise leather hides and position parts in real-time. This patented workflow, developed in collaboration with its software partner Mind, incorporates manual nesting techniques. Operators can rotate, arrange, and place parts to maximise material utilisation while following specific nesting criteria. Katrin Dotzauer, Zünd's global market manager for furniture, fashion, and outdoor, shared insights with Footwearbiz about this technology, particularly in relation to the luxury leathergoods sector. She noted that AR systems are generating significant interest, as the ability to picture the production process in real-time is viewed as a valuable enhancement to ensuring quality. She highlights that, although the AR process may be slower than fully automated digital nesting systems, the leathergoods market often uses more expensive hides in their production. As a result, physically marking materials for fault detection is not always preferred. By adopting augmented reality, users can maximise material efficiency while still maintaining quality. As noted, an additional benefit of the AR system is, unlike traditional projection systems, which often struggle with reflective or treated surfaces, AR excels in such conditions,
The lightweight headset allows the user to visualise the work environment where virtual elements are projected into their field of view.
providing precise placement and minimising material waste. With high gloss hides and skins such as patent leather or glazed crocodile skins, projected imagery is often “invisible” and whilst some laser systems can be used, the stability of the outlines are often problematic.
At the 2024 SIMAC exhibition, Zünd demonstrated the abilities of AR in conjunction with the G3 cutter, a compact yet versatile machine tailored to the specific demands of leathergoods processing. Featuring a 227 x 280 cm (89 x 110 inches) working area, the G3 cutter combines precision with practicality, making it ideal for working with medium-sized hides and, despite its modest footprint, the system is designed to streamline the entire workflow, from nesting and cutting to parts removal.
The cutter operates using a threezone process, dividing the workflow into sections for loading, cutting, and
removal. This arrangement allows simultaneous operations, enabling new hides to be loaded and graded while finished parts are removed, without interruption to the cutting process, and boosting overall productivity by minimising downtime and optimising resource use. Controlled via Mind software, the system ensures centralised management of tasks and supports up to three tools, providing the flexibility needed for a range of leather handling applications.
Advancing automation with leather grading
In a move to further digitise leather processing, the Swiss company has also recently announced a partnership with Mindhive Global, a leader in automated leather grading. This collaboration aims to develop highspeed, precision grading solutions for finished leather. Automated grading
The G3 cutter combines precision with practicality, making it ideal for working with medium-sized hides and is designed to streamline the entire workflow, from nesting and cutting to parts removal.
offers consistent quality, a key requirement for industries such as footwear, furniture, automotive interiors and luxury goods. By integrating Mindhive’s grading technology with its cutting systems, Zünd hopes to reinforce its position as a total solutions provider for the leather industry
Towards a smart factory for leather processing
Zünd’s innovations align with the broader industry shift towards smart factory principles, where automation, data integration, and intelligent systems drive efficiency and sustainability. In the leather industry, this transformation involves streamlining traditional processes, minimising material waste, as well as the precision required for premium products. By combining compact yet versatile cutting solutions like the G3 cutter with digital tools such as AR-assisted nesting and automated grading, Zünd is enabling leather manufacturers to embrace this new landscape, catering to both highvolume production and specialised luxury markets.
Nesting information is digitally recreated to give visual information that integrates the physical environment with virtual components.
A guide to EU sustainability rules
Sustainability first became popular in 1987, when United Nations (UN)-commissioned document the Brundtland Report, also called ‘Our Common Future’, was published. Since then, sustainability has been a major part of political and scientific discussions worldwide. In 2015, the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) were introduced as part the UN’s Agenda 2030. The SDGs consist of 17 goals targeting economic, social, and ecological aspects, and act as a guideline for sustainable entrepreneurship. Also in 2015, the UN Climate Change Conference took place near Paris, where most participants agreed to limit global warming to 1.5°C above pre-industrial levels in order to reduce the consequences of climate change
In 2019, the European Commission presented the European Green Deal, aiming to make the European Union (EU) climate-neutral by 2050. The Green Deal’s various directives and regulations are designed to force economic actors in the EU to adopt more sustainable practices and, in turn, support the wider, ambitious goal.
Pirmasens-based footwear technology and research institute
PFI has put together a guide to help shoe companies keep track of all the European Union sustainability regulations that could impact on the industry.
The footwear and textile industries are, according to the EU, critical sectors, with highly negative social and ecological impacts, and are therefore significantly affected by the regulations. After the EU Green Deal was presented, the Commission realised that much of the required data could not yet be provided. As a result, the current Commission, which formed in December 2024, is addressing the challenges faced by
CREDIT: FASHION FOR GOOD/MARTA FRIGATO
manufacturers and has launched the Industrial Deal. Nevertheless, previously published regulations and the results of outstanding decisions must still be considered.
Forest focus
One of the most relevant of these is the European Deforestation Regulation (EUDR). It entered into force in June 2023, but will only come into application on December 30, 2025 for large and medium-sized operators, and on June 30, 2026 for small companies.
EUDR focuses on the protection of current forest lands. The aim is to prevent areas with natural forests from being transformed into agricultural landscapes for grazing cattle or cultivating raw materials such as cacao, soy, palm oil, coffee, rubber, and wood. It must be verified whether deforestation or forest degradation has occurred for these raw materials or certain products containing them. In addition to protecting natural forests, the regulation also obliges companies falling within its scope to comply with domestic regulations in the country of production.
In anticipation of PPWR, Puma introduced a new shoebox design in 2021, claiming this would help it save 2,800 tonnes of cardboard every year.
CREDIT: PUMA
As soon as any of the raw materials or products that are within the scope of EUDR is placed on the EU market, imported into the EU, or exported from the EU, companies must fulfil certain due diligence obligations to gain approval for trading those products. In this way, the EU aims to ensure that companies will maintain high levels of commitment to civil rights, labour rights and environmental protection.
Unsold products
Another piece of legislation that many companies are going to have to consider is the Ecodesign for Sustainable Product Regulation (ESPR). This entered into force in July 2024. ESPR prohibits the destruction of unsold products (including shoes and textiles) and will apply from July 2026 for large companies, and from July 2030 for medium-sized enterprises. Small enterprises will not be directly affected by ESPR.
This regulation’s aim is to prolong the lifespan of products. Exactly how it will be implemented is not yet clear. Further detail will be published in the coming months, but footwear will be one of industries to face early ESPR compliance.
Sustainability reports
The aim of the Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive (CSRD) is to create a level playing field in the EU regarding sustainability reporting. It entered into force in January 2023 and the first sustainability
reports to comply with CSRD will be published in the course of 2025.
Part of the thinking behind CSRD is to make it easier to compare one company’s progress against another’s, based on how they present that progress in corporate sustainability reports.
Under CSRD, the number of companies required to produce a sustainability report will increase significantly and their reports will have to be in keeping with EU reporting standards. These standards will specify how companies must report their achievements in a set series of environmental, social and corporate governance criteria. Reports must be audited by an external reviewer and published alongside a management report.
Expanding environmental responsibility to the supply chain, the EU also now has the Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDDD). It entered into force in July 2024 and will apply to large companies from 2027. Companies that fall within its scope must take a closer look at social and environmental aspects within their supply chains. Additionally, they are required to report on their climate action plans.
The core of the CSDDD is its due diligence requirements, which companies must integrate into their processes to monitor, prevent, or resolve issues related to human rights or environmental pollution. Specifically, this includes risk analysis, preventive measures, complaint procedures, corrective action plans, efficiency checks, and reporting obligations. Topics already covered by the CSRD do not need to be reported again under the CSDDD.
The port of Antwerp. PFI says the ambitions associated with the Green Deal are a challenge for the EU, for its industries and for trade.
CREDIT: EUROPEAN COMMISSION/LUKASZ KOBUS
Safety measures
The General Product Safety Regulation (GPSR) entered into force in 2023 and came into application in December 2024. This regulation ensures that consumer products, including products that people purchase online, pose no risk to consumers. Footwear products are among those covered by GPSR. As a result, companies must provide a risk analysis for their products and technical documentation demonstrating that risk mitigation measures have been implemented.
Furthermore, all products within the scope of the GPSR must be labelled with an electronic address for direct contact. The GPSR also provides clear instructions on how companies must recall their products from the market if a safety risk emerges.
Waste not
A newer initiative, the Packaging and Packaging Waste Regulation (PPWR), was scheduled to enter into force on February 11, 2025 and become applicable from August 12, 2026.
Its aim is to reduce packaging waste. One of the key elements in achieving this goal is to increase the recycling of materials and, by 2030, packaging materials should be affordably reusable or fully recyclable. Additionally, the empty space within packaging should be reduced to minimise weight and volume.
In future
A new Forced Labour Regulation entered into force on December 13, 2024, but it will be December 2027 before it comes into application.
Products produced using forced labour will no longer be allowed in the EU.
Lastly, there is the Green Claims Directive, which is still in negotiation. Its aim is to protect customers from greenwashing. It establishes requirements for the communication and verifiability of product information, particularly claims related to products being good for the environment. This ensures that customers who wish to purchase more sustainable products can do so with greater confidence.
Conclusion
On the one hand, the ambitions and expectations associated with the EU Green Deal are a challenge for the EU and its industries and trade. On the other hand, they also present an opportunity for a shift towards a more sustainable and environmentally friendly lifestyle. Since all EU member states must comply with the corresponding regulations, a level playing field will be created within the EU. In the future, sustainability will be considered when evaluating and rating companies, alongside shareholder value. Bank lenders and public tenders already, in some cases, require information on sustainable practices, and this will likely increase as the regulations and directives described here come into force. While SMEs generally have more time to prepare for the upcoming regulations, the additional obligations they will need to fulfil will still present a challenge.
Additionally, owing to the changing geopolitical situation, the EU recognises that the economic environment is evolving, and that industry needs more support to remain competitive in the future, which could lead to simplifications in due diligence reporting.
PFI offers support to companies in their efforts to comply with the upcoming regulations. The PFI Eco Label is a tool to support a company’s journey towards more sustainable entrepreneurship. Owing to the large number of EU directives and regulations, and to the associated obligations and due diligence tasks, complying will be challenging for companies inside and outside the EU. The PFI Eco Label is a tool that efficiently helps companies act more sustainably and comply with upcoming restrictions.
It is a two-step process. First, companies must fill out a questionnaire that clearly guides them through the maze of EU sustainability regulations. In the second step, companies undergo an audit through a training interview based on the questionnaire. Upon successful completion of both steps, companies receive a PFI Eco Report and the PFI Eco Label, providing them with the opportunity to showcase their sustainability efforts to customers.
Introducing high-quality, high-performance leather that’s more sustainable* and more accessible. From a coalition of innovative Thai leather makers redefining the industry. Available worldwide today. Coming to Milan on 25/2 and APLF Hong Kong on 12/3.
ALL AUTHENTIC THAI LEATHER IS FINISHED WITH SUSTAINABLE,* BIODEGRADABLE CHEMISTRY FROM EVOLVED BY NATURE. *Activated Silk™ biotechnology contributes to 8/17 UN Sustainable Development Goals.
Founding members:
Avanti
is
Despite an increasing number of styles containing leather, the material only accounts for 4% of the brand’s footwear materials.
ALL CREDITS: PUMA
A seat at the table
“Ihad no idea leather was made from cow hides,” says England footballer Maya Le Tissier as part of a Puma podcast on sustainability in fashion. “I don’t know what I thought it was made of, but definitely not a cow.”
She joins fellow footballer Moses Duckrell and blogger Oliver Bromfield on a series called Green Flags, which Puma launched in a bid to offer more transparency around its materials and manufacturing in a way that is accessible to younger consumers. One of the episodes, Lessons in Leather, uses a quiz format to explore the topic, highlighting that up to 45% of hides are ending up in landfill. When asked, “Are all ‘vegan leather’ materials made from natural materials?” the panellists were shocked to find out most are plastic-based. “I thought vegan meant it would be completely pure,” says Duckrell. Their comments support Leather UK findings that 10% of people don’t know what leather is made of and half have no idea what ‘vegan leather’ is.
“Throughout this episode we quote reliable data sources,” adds Mr Duckrell – with the Nothing to Hide
Puma has enlisted ‘youth voices’ and influencers to explore questions surrounding real leather versus its alternatives - and uses our Nothing to Hide website to inform the debate.
website, operated by Footwearbiz publisher World Trades Publishing, listed as one of the sources. More than 640,000 people had viewed the video on YouTube alone at the time of going to press.
Youth driven
In 2023, Puma launched Voices of a Re:Generation, an initiative that aims to include Generation Z’s perspectives and recommendations on sustainability, and a continuation of its Conference of the People
LS
the latest Puma football boot designed by singer/ actress Rihanna.
“ It’s not just about vegan versus non-vegan, it’s about footprint. ”
ROMAIN GIRARD, PUMA
event in London. Its own research found 71% of young people felt their voices weren’t being heard when it comes to the environment and would like to see brands making more commitments (49%), communicating their goals better (40%) and being more transparent (34%). “We’ve always documented our progress in sustainable practices,” commented Puma’s chief sourcing officer, Anne-Laure Descours, at the time. “However, our participation in Conference of the People shed light on the fact that the information we share isn’t always easily understood by the next generation.”
The Green Flags podcasts are an extension of a series called #Knowyourstuff, which features the Voices of a Re:Generation. One of these ‘voices’ is Aishwarya Sharma, an Indian ‘fashion activist’, who explores the debate around leather versus non-leather in a sevenpart short video series, available on YouTube and on Puma’s channels. The German brand has a long history with leather, with its first shoes in 1948 made from leather and many millions having been produced since, but the material only accounts for around 4% of its footwear materials today.
Although the video starts with offering a platform to animal rights activists PETA’s false claims that more than 1 billion animals are slaughtered for their skins each year, Puma’s senior director of sustainability, Veronique Rochet, counters this by explaining that leather is a by-product of the beef industry and that if the skins weren’t used, they would be sent to landfill. Peta’s claim that leather has six times the environmental impact of polyurethane is also left unchallenged, as is its suggestion that mushroom and olive-based materials are scalable and viable alternatives.
Tannery tour
This myth is denounced in the next episode when Ms Sharma visits Puma’s headquarters in Herzogenaurach, Germany. Romain Girard, vicepresident of innovation, says while the company is assessing new materials such as mycelium, and hybrid materials containing olives, pineapples and vine leaves, as well as a 100% TPU shoe, they do not meet the quality requirements and they cost at least twice as much as its current options. “Consumers are not willing to pay double for these materials,” he admits, adding that they are continuing research with suppliers. “But it’s not just about vegan versus non-vegan, it’s about footprint. The natural
alternative (mushroom) has a high energy consumption whereas the 100% plastic is very easy to recycle. So, which is better?”
Aishwarya heads to Thailand to the CPL tannery, to find out more about the tanning process. Although little detail is given, she explains how its Zeology leather is made with fewer chemicals and less energy, and helps to make the limited-edition Puma Re:Suede compostable, in certain conditions. Zeology is a tanning method created by Smit & Zoon’s Nera, based on the mineral zeolite and is chrome-free, heavy metal-free and aldehyde-free. She also visits CPL’s water treatment plant, showing how bacteria are used to clean the water before it is discharged back to the environment.
“Sustainability can be complex and the leather topic is embedded with sensitive themes, so I’ve taken care in making sure this is approached in an open and transparent way that inspires people to become informed about the materials they choose to wear,” she concludes. Perhaps a look at how the synthetic materials are made and their end-of-life options would have rounded the debate out further.
Carbon reductions
Last November, Puma published updated sustainability targets, which were approved by the Science Based Targets initiative as aligned with a 1.5degree scenario. By 2030, the German brand seeks to cut its Scope 1 and 2 [manufacturing] greenhouse gas
Puma’s Romain Girard explains ‘next-generation’ materials are currently too expensive and do not meet the quality standards to use at scale.
emissions by 90% from a 2017 baseline year and has committed to reduce Scope 3 greenhouse gas emissions from its supply chain and logistics by 33% compared to 2017. It will insist on increased renewable energy use at its core suppliers and increase the use of less carbonintensive materials – perhaps a move away from virgin synthetic materials will be necessary to reach this goal. Last autumn, the Higg Materials Sustainability Index lowered its average values for bovine leather by between 55% and 67% (see separate article) as a result of a new body of work. Where bovine leather previously had a global warming potential score of 36.8 points, this has been amended to 14.6 points, a reduction of more than 60%
Circularity remains high on the agenda for 2030, including targets to enter more circular business models and to introduce resell and repair in selected markets. New material targets for 2030 include using 100% recycled polyester fabric. In apparel, 30% of the polyester fabric will be fibre-to-fibre recycled, while 20% of cotton fabric will also be from recycled sources. The brand plans to invest in nextgeneration material research
options with a focus on footwear and will continue scaling up textileto-textile recycling.
“By openly discussing the complexities of the materials used in our products, like leather and its alternatives, we hope to foster a more informed and balanced conversation about sustainable clothing and
footwear choices, which is essential for driving positive change,” concludes Ms Descours. “The #KnowYourStuff series is a testament to our commitment of transparency and our promise made during our Conference of the People event to include the next generation as part of these important discussions.”
Despite growth, cost-cutting on horizon
Puma has reported a 5% rise in revenues for 2024 to €8.8 billion in 2024, with its footwear sales increasing almost 10% over the year before. All regions, product divisions and distribution channels improved sales compared with the previous year.
However, earnings came in at €282 million, which is below the year before (€305 million). The company has now launched an “efficiency programme” to “optimise direct and indirect costs, including personnel expenses through better resource allocation aligned with our strategic growth areas”.
Arne Freundt, CEO of Puma, said: "While we achieved solid sales growth in 2024 and made meaningful progress on our strategic initiatives, we are not satisfied with our profitability. With a heightened focus on translating top-line growth to increased profitability growth, we have initiated 'nextlevel', a comprehensive efficiency programme targeting cost optimisation and operational improvements. Combined with decisive actions already taken, we will implement further cost control measures in 2025.”
Aishwarya Sharma visits CPL Tannery in Thailand to pass on her knowledge of the tanning process to Gen Z customers.
The Hierro v7. LCA analysis of this shoe informed the design changes for a new version.
Preferred materials
Because it wants to “keep pushing forward”, athletic footwear brand New Balance is moving the goalposts on itself, amending the environmental goals it has in place and setting more ambitious targets for the rest of this decade. Collecting accurate data to measure its performance is the only basis for framing these objectives, according to the company’s environmental impact assessment lead, responsible leadership and global compliance manager, Nicole Sala. “The route to decarbonisation starts with corporate assessment,” she says. “There is a lot of old data in our supply chains; collecting better data is a good place to focus our efforts.”
In its most recent sustainability report, published in summer 2024, New Balance highlights six points to focus on, which it refers to as “areas of meaningful change”. This article examines the company’s efforts to make improvements in two of these, energy and materials.
Energy boost
The “aggressive goals” (its own term) that arise from its focus on these subjects include the aim to source from renewable resources 100% of the electricity it consumes in the facilities that it owns. By the end of 2023, it calculated that it was 90% of the way towards
Footwear brand New Balance is using data from LCA exercises to reset its environmental targets and its definition of ‘preferred materials’. This is already informing changes to product design.
meeting this target. Another positive result is that it had completed 59% of the journey towards its target for reducing emissions from scopes one and two, which is to say emissions from its own facilities and from the energy those facilities consume. Compared to the levels for 2019, it wants to bring those emissions down by 60% by 2030.
For scope three, though, which is the indirect emissions that occur upstream in the supply chain, for which the goal is a reduction of 50% by 2030 compared to 2019 levels, there is plenty of work left to do. In the newest sustainability report, New Balance said it made progress towards this of only 3%.
Round in circles. New Balance says it is trying “new approaches to design for circularity”, focused on reducing waste, incorporating recycled feedstock and extending product life.
Meaningful changes
It is from focusing on this, Nicole Sala points out, that energy and materials have emerged as particularly interesting areas in which to try to make meaningful changes. These two aspects of the business present a specific challenge in the upstream supply chain. After collecting and analysing the data, the company found that 71% of impact came either from the energy that suppliers’ production processes consume, or from raw materials.
Leather is one of the key raw materials in its portfolio and, therefore, a key feature of the scope-three picture for New Balance. It had been working towards a target of sourcing 100% preferred leather by 2025. By the end of 2023, it was 94% of the way towards achieving this. It came up with its own definition of preferred leather, initially stipulating that the material should be sourced from tanneries with a ‘gold’ rating from multi-stakeholder initiative the Leather Working Group (LWG). It also said at first that the leather it used had to be either chrome-free, or sourced from ranches practising regenerative agriculture.
Aim low
contribution to its overall carbon footprint. “We know where the CO2 emission impacts are in leather,” Nicole Sala says. “The processes for retanning hides and finishing them at our tier-two suppliers account for between 10% and 30% of our leather’s impact, and between 70% and 90% comes from the upstream phases, up to and including wet-end tanning.”
In 2024, though, the company decided to add new aspects to its definition of preferred leather, expanding what can constitute approved material. It has now decided to include what it calls low-emission leather. For the amended target, 100% of the leather it sources must, by 2030, be chrome-free, regenerative or low- emission. Of course, what low-emission means needs nailing down, too. The company will consider leather to be lowemission if the tannery that supplies it has completed a lifecycle assessment (LCA) exercise and can show its leather to have a carbon footprint of less than 18 kilos of CO2-equivalent per kilo of leather.
The LWG ‘gold’ stipulation remains, but only for tanneries that have an annual production capacity of more than 1 million square-feet of finished leather. Leather manufacturing facilities that have a capacity of under 1 million square-feet must also engage with LWG, but completing an audit with the organisation will be enough to clear the New Balance hurdle. Again, by 2030, all New Balance leather must meet whichever of these two criteria applies to the supplier.
These changes have come about because the shoe company now has more in-depth knowledge than it did before about its leather supply chain and the material’s
Knots in the cotton
New Balance has other preferred materials, too. It has work to do on sourcing preferred cotton, which is cotton that either comes from the programmes run by sustainability initiative Better Cotton, or from certified organic sources. The target is to have 100% preferred cotton by the end of 2025, but the most recent sustainability report put the figure for 2023 at only 38%. This was “a significant decline” from the proportion of preferred cotton that it reported in 2022, but the company has explained that the “corporate assessment” work that Nicole Sala refers to has recently flagged up “data anomalies” with cotton. These include variances in units of measurement and reporting periods. It says this has caused it to question the numbers for 2022 and 2023. It says it will revise its cotton calculations and the processes related to them. It remains to be seen if this will lead to a change in the target for this fibre. It is not giving up on cotton; quite the reverse. It has identified that some of its “highest-volume blended materials” are good targets for its wider sustainability efforts and it has pledged to reduce drastically the amount of polyester in these blends, or convert products to 100% cotton, of the preferred types, naturally.
Fast-paced change
It will continue to use synthetic fibres as well, principally polyester, which New Balance says is its most used material of all. But not just any polyester. By 2030, it will use only preferred polyester. A 2023 target was to make 50% of its polyester recycled by 2025. The result for 2023 was a figure that was higher than that target, reaching 56%. “This achievement demonstrates that meaningful, fast-paced change is possible,” the company states. Based on this, the 2024 changes state that 25% of recycled polyester must, by 2030, derive from textile waste feedstock, or from biological sources (although not from human food sources).
Synthetic materials (with bio-based content) also go into the soles of the shoes, but it should be no surprise to learn that New Balance has preferred compounds for these components. By 2030, it aims to use 80% preferred midsole materials and 90% preferred outsole components. A proportion of bio-based ethylene vinyl acetate (EVA) from sugarcane or recycled midsole foam are a small but important part of its preferred midsole materials, a minimum of 3% of the former and 5% of the latter. For outsoles, the 5% recycled content applies, too, in this case recycled rubber or bio-based compounds. It acknowledges that this will mean that most of the midsoles and outsoles will continue to have a synthetic composition, but argues that, even with these small percentages, the “impact at scale across the business” will be large.
Lowest-carbon-footprint shoe
LCA projects that New Balance has worked on with specialist Milan-based consultancy Spin360 have helped inform the changes the company is now making to its environmental targets. It has already put into effect some of the lessons it has learned from LCA and it has begun to see concrete evidence of the benefits. “We know our lowest-carbon-footprint shoe,” Nicole Sala
“ The route to decarbonisation starts with corporate assessment. There is a lot of old data in our supply chains; collecting better data is a good place to focus our efforts. ”
NICOLE SALA, NEW BALANCE
explains. “It’s a performance running shoe called the Hierro v8.”
This version of the Hierro shoe incorporates design changes that LCA analysis of its immediate predecessor, Hierro v7, inspired. The study focused on a pair of Hierro v7 in US size 9.5. It took into account raw materials, raw material production, assembly of the shoes, distribution, use equivalent to 100 wears, and end of life.
Under these circumstances, the outcome of the analysis is that this pair of Hierro v7 would have a carbon impact of 7.93 kilos of CO2-equivalent. As Ms Sala says, raw materials have come out as the biggest contributors to this figure, with the midsole, outsole and upper mesh the components contributing the highest impact. This is mainly because of the compounds used to construct them, energy and the dyeing of the mesh upper.
Changes for the Hierro v8 include some use of biobased materials, recycled content and what New Balance calls “low-waste design elements”, but, it insists, without any compromise on performance. The result is a carbon impact for the redesigned shoe of 6.49 kilos of CO2-equivalent, a reduction of 18%. What the brand has taken away from this is that using data to drive design changes can produce encouraging results. It is setting its environmental goals accordingly.
Use of bio-based materials, recycled content and “low-waste design elements” have helped give the Hierro v8 a carbon impact that is 18% lower than that of its predecessor.
The Air Jordan Mid Subway is made with water-resistant leathers for durability. Designers and sourcing professionals will be able to make more informed decisions about leather when using the Higg suite of tools.
CREDIT: NIKE
Growing consensus
How can brands justify the choices they make when it comes to selecting materials and suppliers? It is not possible to make these decisions solely on cost as responsible business practices become more prevalent and incoming regulations such as the European Union’s (EU) Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive and Green Claims Directive will require companies to be transparent about their choices.
To analyse materials, more than 40,000 businesses use the Higg Materials Sustainability Index (MSI), a cradle-to-gate assessment tool that calculates environmental impacts and is operated by Cascale (formerly called the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, with the index hosted by Worldly). For each material, the MSI provides scores, taking into account the energy, water and chemicals used, as well as waste generation and water pollution. Environmental impact is measured for global warming, nutrient pollution, water scarcity, abiotic resource depletion, use of fossil fuels and chemistry.
But trying to compare these materials, with a myriad of variables, is difficult, and there have been cries –particularly from natural fibres producers – that comparing certain data sets creates an unfair picture. This has partly been because natural fibres such as leather, wool and cotton are often assigned high carbon footprint figures because of the resources needed to grow or collect the fibres, and also because
Last autumn’s revision of the Higg Index included new figures for leather, showing a substantially reduced environmental impact.
Cascale also worked with 13 cotton industry bodies, following years of disparate figures, as data becomes ever more important to brands.
the figures stop at the gate (manufacturing). This means that the material’s durability – which some claim is the most important sustainability metric – is not considered. Other factors, such as microplastic migration and synthetic fibres’ inability to degrade, are also not represented, for instance in the European Union’s Product Environmental Footprint.
Over the years, the Higg Index has been criticised by several associations, including leather and wool industry representatives and in 2022 by the Norwegian Consumer Authority, which recommended its users stop backing claims with Higg data. In response, Higg temporarily suspended the MSI and commissioned a third-party review. Consultants at
KPMG said it needed to improve the quality of data and add warnings to avoid inappropriate comparisons.
In the background, work was already under way to update the data attributed to cotton. Thirteen associations – including Better Cotton, Cotton Council International, Cotton Incorporated, National Cotton Council of America, Organic Cotton Accelerator and the US Cotton Trust Protocol – gathered online, initially monthly, as part of the Cotton Expert Team. Over three years, they worked to build a blueprint for cotton data. This included defining lifecycle assessment (LCA) data source requirements, modelling approaches and data-use best-practices, as well as addressing gaps or considerations outside LCA data. The task was to agree on the data needed, define a common template, the assumptions underlying the model, and the intended and allowed use cases. They also discussed the common figures existing in the literature.
Change of heart
For many years, associations have shied away from producing collaborative figures, so, what was the impetus for the change of heart?
For Better Cotton, under which about 20% of the world’s cotton is grown, it was partly because pooling resources on LCAs meant money could be used elsewhere. “The opportunity to share LCA data as a united industry group has allowed us to continue targeting investment in our field-level programmes rather than channelling these funds towards Better Cotton’s own LCAs,” Miguel Gomez-Escolar Viejo, Better Cotton’s head of monitoring, evaluation and learning, tells us.
Better Cotton is a non-profit, multi-stakeholder governance group that promotes better standards in cotton farming across 22 countries. More than 2.1 million farmers have a licence to sell their cotton as Better Cotton and the network has more than 2,700 members. Miguel Gomez-Escolar Viejo notes a global LCA for Better Cotton could not capture the regional nuances, but however, country-level LCAs could link the data to physically sourced cotton and further incentivise
brands to invest in improvements. “What is exciting about this new LCA is the sheer amount of data we have used,” he adds. “Data has been collected from over 60,000 farmers. Using all our farm-level data is a truly exciting way to better reflect reality and lay the foundations for targeted farmer support that helps tackle their environmental footprint.”
For the US Cotton Trust Protocol, which launched in 2020 and covers more than 2 million acres, data is key and updating the current sets was a key driver for collaborating.
“Our shared goal is to enhance the depth and quality of data within the Higg MSI methodology and results,”
Daren Abney, CEO of the Protocol, tells Footwearbiz. “Other than data from Australia, Better Cotton in India and the US Cotton Trust Protocol, as of today, other datasets are old and of poor quality – with some dating as far back as 2007. As such, this collaboration is crucial for improving the accuracy and representation of future assessments, ultimately benefiting the entire cotton industry.”
Geographic nuances
So, what has changed? The updated dataset incorporates more recent information for the US, Australia and India and is more likely to reflect differences between geographies. The modelling, data collection methods and the year of data collection are different, and variations will also arise in some of the metrics. However, specific differences in results depend on the impact category being considered. Mr Abney points out that harmonisation always comes with a set of limiting assumptions.
“Differences in data between the Higg MSI and data reported directly by the Trust Protocol can arise from variations in methodologies, scope, background data and data collection periods,” he says, but adds that overall, it can identify areas for improvement and drive positive change.
Cascale (which did not respond to interview requests) said the new cotton LCA methodology offers “unprecedented accuracy and consistency”. “This new methodology provides businesses with reliable data to make informed sourcing and sustainability decisions,” it added.
Adidas has been a member of LWG since 2006. Its new Copa Luxe Control features a seamless, quilted leather upper.
CREDIT: ADIDAS
However, the cotton associations warn against comparison. “Sharing Better Cotton-specific LCA data may have several positive and negative impacts that we are currently evaluating,” explains Gomez-Escolar Viejo. “We understand the initial desire is for users to compare the data sets from different regions and programmes, or against conventional cotton production. However, these are not valid comparisons and they can lead to inaccurate conclusions that do not support the industry in working towards the collective environmental footprint reduction of cotton production.
“For one, this data should not be used for sourcing strategies since LCAs are only telling part of the story of cotton, and do not cover or reflect any social or economic impacts, weather variability or seasonal differences, among other factors. For example, an LCA reflecting a year in which extreme weather events led to lower yields would reflect differently to an LCA covering a year in which there were no such events, without creating space to explain the impact external variables had.”
The LCA data for India is the first set of figures within this model, and it cannot be compared with any previous data sets. Better Cotton will update data from the same regions at regular intervals, which will make these data sets comparable and show change and improvements over time.
“Previously we took the position that we were not in favour of publishing a global Better Cotton LCA, since it would not reflect regional nuances, challenges and priorities,” adds Mr Gomez-Escolar Viejo. “However, if the only use case for this dataset would be to account for Scope 3 greenhouse gas emissions, a global Better Cotton figure could be useful and considered the ‘best available data’. Cotton production emissions datasets seem to be a requirement from brands since they are increasingly under legislative pressure to substantiate their sustainability reporting with data. It is important to remember that good data used poorly would be akin to using inaccurate data.”
With cotton being the world’s second-most used fibre, according to the Textile Exchange at 22% of global usage (although this is half that of polyester, at 54%), the need to grow and buy responsibly is pressing. The Higg MSI will be updated bi-annually and cotton programmes will, in the future, be able to add data directly to the index. Eventually, users will be able to select specific cotton programmes and regions, said Cascale, adding the cotton Member Expert Team (MET) has inspired new workstreams, including a textile wet processing MET. “In the future, other fibres may come forward for a data overhaul,” it added.
Leather turnaround
Other fibres did come forward for data overhaul – last autumn, the figures for leather on the Higg MSI were substantially reduced.
In 2020, several leather industry bodies requested that Cascale suspend leather’s MSI score due to “inappropriate methodologies” and “out-of-date, unrepresentative, inaccurate and incomplete data” that had led to leather being burdened with a disproportionately high score. “This has led to a negative
“ It is important to remember that good data used poorly would be akin to using inaccurate data. ”
MIGUEL GOMEZ-ESCOLAR VIEJO, BETTER COTTON
perception of leather that does not reflect its sustainable, circular nature,” said Dr Kerry Senior, then-secretary of the International Council of Tanners. “On the basis of the current Higg score, manufacturers are deselecting leather in favour of fossil fuel-derived, unsustainable synthetic products,” he said at the time. Cascale did not suspend the score, but opened consultations.
Although it was not announced by Cascale, last October consultancy Spin360, multi-stakeholder initiative The Leather Working Group (LWG) and promotion body Leather Naturally announced new figures for bovine leather had been adopted by the MSI, on the back of a joint body of work that included data from 45 manufacturing facilities across 18 countries and evaluated 92 leather products. It also encompassed information from the footwear, automotive, leathergoods and upholstery sectors. From this, the values were revised, with reductions across every Higg MSI category – global warming potential, eutrophication, water scarcity, abiotic depletion and chemistry.
“While anyone can submit a new dataset to the Higg MSI that is attributable to their company, our aim was to update the global default value for leather,” Debbie Burton, director of communications at Leather Working Group, tells Footwearbiz. “Ultimately, the size of the dataset at 92 specific leather articles, as well as the geographical and technical representativeness of the dataset, were the main attributes of this work for the sector and for Cascale, providing more accurate data for a global average.”
The new dataset, included in the October 2024 update of the MSI, resulted in the environmental impacts of bovine leather being between 55% and 67% lower than the previous MSI value. The global warming potential, which previously showed an impact of 36.8 points on the scale, has been reduced by 60% to 14.6 points.
“While the Higg index clearly advises users not to compare different materials (for example, leather versus cotton) and instead encourages comparisons within the same material category (eg, chrome-tanned versus glutaraldehyde-tanned leather), the practice of crossmaterial comparison remains,” states Leather Naturally. “Consequently, it was crucial to provide design and sourcing teams with the most reliable and comprehensive data available. Although there is still room for improvement, this dataset offers a clearer and more accurate picture than ever before.”
“This is a significant step forward,” concludes Spin360 CEO Federico Brugnoli, “as an important player has recognised that LCA primary data, obtained with verified methodologies, can have a positive global impact for the leather industry.”
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