World Luxury Weekly - Issue 8 - Couture Special

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Issue 8

WEEKLY

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD BALMAIN JEAN-PAUL GAULTIER DICE KAYET COUTURE SHOW CALENDAR

COUTURE ELIE SAAB KENZO STELLA McCARTNEY ALEXANDER McQUEEN LUXURY REDEFINED


world luxury | WEEKLY | Issue 3 |

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

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COLLECTING THE BEST OF WORLD TRAVEL DAILY NEWS | STORIES | OPINION | FEATURES | EVENTS

Issue 8

CONTENTS 22 46 56 66 76 90

ALEXANDER McQUEEN

in May 2010, Sarah Burton was promoted to Creative Director of the entire Alexander McQueen brand, having worked alongside McQueen for more than 14 years.

KENZO

Proving his theatricality, in 1978 and 1979, Kenzo held his shows in a circus tent, featuring performers on horse wearing transparent uniforms.wly

ELIE SAAB

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Elie Saab is a Lebanese fashion designer. Long known as a leading haute couturier, his overtly feminine aesthetic and romantic crystal-encrusted gowns initially aracted princesses, and later, film stars.

DICE KAYET

From the workshop located in an Eiffel style building, DICE KAYEK and DICE express a luxurious atmosphere of magical oriental souks and Bosphorus charm.

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

Dame Vivienne Westwood's popularity knows no bounds. Her punk aitude is more alive now than in the movement's Seventies heyday.

STELLA McCARTNEY

Cuba was the inspiration for Stella McCartney‘s optimistic, vivacious and energetic collection. I

ALSO IN THIS LUXURIOUS ISSUE

04 HAUTE COUTURE PICTORIAL 32 BALMAIN 42 COUTURE AT THE NEW YORK MET

86 COUTURE CALENDAR 102 JEAN-PAUL GAULTIER 112 COUTURE JEWELLERY

WEEKLY Publisher Kevin Rolfe Editor Siddharth Thaker Editor at Large Mary Gostelow Designers Mike Gibas Mark Askam Editorial Team Anton RenshaweStrack Christopher O’Toole Rebecca Cohen Phil Blizzard Photography Mark Hakansson Ben Roberts Anjjelo San Buenaventura

Advertising Gina Reynolds Mike Sawicki Business Development Kevin Rolfe Chris Frost Andrea Roca Production team Nadeem George Rasha Akar Abid Ahmed Denis Halilaj Josiah King Juwon Adenusi Katrina Lee-Smith Orenthal Jackson Online George Cooke

World Luxury Daily is published by World Luxury Media Momentum House, Lower Road, London, SE1 8SJ, United Kingdom T: +44 (0) 20 7925 0000 M: +44 (0) 7792965550 E: advertising@worldluxurydaily.com www.worldluxurydaily.com The use of our Website and Digital Magazine are all subject to the following: All rights reserved. No part of www.worldluxurydaily.com may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmied, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without prior permission from world luxury daily. Whilst every effort has been made to check the information contained in this issue of world luxury daily magazine, the publishers cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions. The views expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of world luxury daily publishing. Unless otherwise stated, the copyright of the individual contribution is that of the contributors. Every effort has been made to trace the copyright holders of images. We apologise in advance for any unintentional omissions and would be pleased to insert the appropriate acknowledgment in any subsequent publication.

© 2016 World Luxury Media LUXURY REDEFINED

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COUTURE VIKTOR ROLF

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ELsA sCHIApARELLI www.worldcouturenews.com LUXURY REDEFINED

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world luxury | WEEKLY | Issue 8 | COUTURE SPECIAL

COUTURE NEWS Michael Cinco to present at Paris Haute Couture Week

Dubai-based designer-to-the-stars michael Cinco will present his autumn-winter couture collection at paris Haute Couture Week next month. In partnership with the Asian Couture Federation, of which he is a member, Filipino-born Cinco will unveil his collection on July 3 in collaboration with Couturissimo.

exposure," says Emily Hwang, Vice president of the Asian Couture Federation, "We are delighted that michael Cinco is one of the first couturiers that we are collaborating with to create an affordable and accessible collection that is inspired by the world of couture."

An audience of around 400 VIps, select media and buyers have been invited to aend the exclusive show at the world-renowned fashion platform and biannual event.

Cinco’s prêt-a-porter and couture collections both take inspiration from flora and fauna this season.

"I am delighted to be presenting my a/w 2016 couture collection in paris this July." says Cinco "Couture has always been my passion and the opportunity to present my work during Haute Couture Week is a tremendous honour." Dovetailing Cinco’s presentation, The Asian Couture Federation will formally launch its initiative, called Couturissimo, in Europe’s fashion capital. The online portal will provide consumers access to affordable couture-inspired pieces created by respected designers. At the forefront of the endeavour is Cinco, who will send 30 pieces from his debut Couturissimo range down the ramp following his couture show.

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"The launch of Couturissimo is a key step in enabling us to ensure that leading Asian couturiers gain global

"The buerfly is a flying flower. The flower, is a tethered buerfly." he says, "my collection is an homage to the beauty of nature. Like the buerflies just out of their cocoons, hovering around the flowers in their midst. It is a celebration of uncluered beauty, of raw elegance and lightness of being, and yet, of not so quiet serenity. It is a burst of colours amid the secrecy of black. It is for women who know their desires and ultimately get them and still thrive on mystery. And yes, like the buerflies and the flowers, it is timeless." Cinco has dressed the great and the good of the entertainment industry from Jennifer Lopez and Kylie minogue to mila Kunis and Kelly brook. To find out more about the designer and book an appointment at his Dubai atelier go to www.michaelcinco.com


Vanleles Vania Leles, launched an exquisite collection of fine jewellery, including a special collaboration with Gemfields, the world’s leading supplier of responsibly sourced colored gemstones. Vania Leles, the woman behind VanLeles, whose fine jewellery is showcased via her exquisite bond street atelier, brings her extensive industry experience and unique background to her latest collections. Having studied Gemology and Jewellery Design at one of the world’s most reputable institutions, GIA, Vania’s meticulous aention to detail is evident in her work with a number of prestigious design houses, including Graff De beers and sotheby’s. For her latest creations, Vania has launched three collections that pay tribute to her African heritage. www.vanleles.com

Antonio Marras Designs Haute Couture Capsule for Bosco di Ciliegi Antonio marras is celebrating its partnership with Russian giant retailer bosco di Ciliegi with a haute couture capsule collection. This will be unveiled on monday night at moscow’s pushkin state museum of Fine Arts, which is inaugurating an exhibition dedicated to Russian painter and illustrator Leon bakst. The capsule includes 30 upscale dresses specifically designed for the occasion, with the brand’s signature artisanal approach and poetic aesthetic. This project is part of bosco di Ciliegi’s annual Art Festival organized to promote art and various forms of creativity. www.antoniomarras.it

Alberta Ferrei ALbERTA FERRETTI will stage her first ever catwalk show for her Limited Edition line during paris Couture Week this July. "The decision to present Alberta Ferrei Limited Edition for the first time during the days of haute couture is a natural evolution of the collection," said Ferrei. "The collection reflects my desire to create ever more exclusive, detailed designs, to meet the needs of my most discerning customers." The show is scheduled to take place on July 3, before Atelier Versace, in the halls of the palacial parisian headquarters of Alberta Ferrei. www.albertaferrei.com

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photo Christian Dior photo Jean Paul Gaultier


photo Zuhair Murad

photo Elie Saab

photo Christian Dior

www.worldcouturenews.com for the latest news in Couture


world luxury | WEEKLY | Issue 8 | COUTURE SPECIAL

VIP COUTURE

ALEXAND McQUEEN In 2000, sarah burton was made Head of Design for womenswear at Alexander mcQueen, and in may 2010, promoted to Creative Director of the entire Alexander mcQueen brand, having worked alongside mcQueen for more than 14 years. In April 2011, she received global recognition as the designer of the wedding dress for HRH the Duchess of Cambridge, Catherine middleton, on the occasion of her marriage to HRH prince William. since her appointment as the brand’s Creative Director, burton has produced critically acclaimed collections with a focus on handcra, establishing herself as a highly accomplished designer with artisanal and technical expertise.

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burton was recipient of the Designer of the Year award at the british Fashion Awards in November 2011. In February 2012, aer an 11-year absence from the capital, she presented the Autumn/Winter 2012 collection of mcQ, the contemporary brand of the house, at London Fashion Week. burton was named one of Time magazine’s 100 most influential people in April 2012 and was awarded an Order of the british Empire (ObE) for her services to the british fashion industry on 16 June 2012. Today, burton supervises the creative direction and development of all the brand’s collections: women’s and men’s ready-to-wear and accessories, as well as mcQ, which is also made up of women’s, men’s and accessories’ collections.


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world luxury | WEEKLY | Issue 8 | COUTURE SPECIAL

McQUEEN Alexander mcQueen was born in London on march 17th 1969, the youngest of six children. He le school at the age of 16 and was offered an apprenticeship at the traditional saville Row tailors Anderson and sheppard and then at neighbouring Gieves and Hawkes, both masters in the technical construction of clothing. From there he moved to the theatrical costumiers Angels and bermans where he mastere d 6 methods of paern cuing from the melodramatic 16th Century to the razor sharp tailoring which has become a mcQueen signature.

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McQUEEN

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Aged 20 mcQueen was employed by the designer Koji Tatsuno, who also had his roots in british tailoring. A year later mcQueen travelled to milan where he was employed as Romeo Gigli’s design assistant. On his return to London, he completed a masters degree in Fashion Design at Central saint martin’s. He showed his mA collection in 1992, which was famously bought in its entirety by Isabella blow. Alexander mcQueen shows are known for their emotional power and raw energy, as well as the romantic but determinedly contemporary nature of the collections. Integral to the mcQueen culture is the juxtaposition between contrasting elements: fragility and strength, tradition and modernity, fluidity and severity. An openly emotional and even passionate viewpoint is realised with a profound respect and influence for the arts and cras tradition. Alexander’s collections combine an in-depth working knowledge of bespoke british tailoring, the fine workmanship of the French Haute Couture atelier and the impeccable finish of Italian manufacturing.

McQUEEN

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McQUEEN

In less than 10 years mcQueen became one of the most respected fashion designers in the world. In October 1996 he was appointed Chief Designer at the French Haute Couture House Givenchy where he worked until march of 2001.

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In December 2000, 51% of Alexander mcQueen was acquired by the Gucci Group, where he remained Creative Director. Collections include womens ready-to-wear, mens ready-to-wear, accessories, eyewear and fragrance (Kingdom 2003 and myQueen 2005). Expansion followed and included the opening of flagship stores in New York, London, milan, Las Vegas and Los Angeles. The following awards have recognized Alexander mcQueen’s achievement in fashion: british Designer of the year 1996, 1997, 2001, and 2003, International Designer of the Year by The Council of Fashion Designer’s of America (CFDA) in 2003, A most Excellent Commander of The british Empire (CbE) by her majesty the Queen in 2003, GQ menswear Designer of the Year in 2007.

McQUEEN

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world luxury | WEEKLY | Issue 8 | COUTURE SPECIAL

VIP COUTURE

BALM SUB-HEAD

pierre balmain, in full pierre-Alexandre-Claudius balmain (born may 18, 1914, saint-Jean-demaurienne, France—died June 29, 1982, paris) French couturier who in 1945 founded a fashion house that made his name a byword for elegance.

His clients included the Duchess of Windsor, the Queen of belgium, and many of the leading film stars of the 1950s, as well as the experimental writer Gertrude stein and her companion, Alice b. Toklas. “Dressmaking is the architecture of movement,” declared balmain.

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MAIN www.worldcouturenews.com LUXURY REDEFINED

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Olivier Rousteing delivered nothing less than what’s come to be expected of him for balmain pre-fall. In other words, the collection was about more, more, more.

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Taking cues from the opulence of Eighteenth century decor, including Versailles and “the sensual and elegant style of madame de pompadour,” Rousteing’s lineup had more fringe, more crystal, more velvet and more form-fiing looks than even his most glitzy previous efforts.


BALMAIN

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Louis XV’s favorite mistress inspired Rousteing’s sexy take on corsetry and crinoline on short dresses constructed with extra volume at the hips, as well as long, filmy lace knit dresses and catsuits cinched with corset belts.

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Hook and eye closures running the length of tight black pants and tops represented the light end of the collection’s decorative spectrum.


BALMAIN

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Then there were the bob mackie-Does-Versaillesin-Vegas dresses in lace or deep velvet dripping in over-the-top cascades of beaded fringe, tassels and thick, crystal and pearl embroideries. A few of the dresses had sheer panels of crystalembellished fishnet, some of it so densely ornate it probably weighed half as much as the model wearing it.

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Jacquard pantsuits and short dresses referenced the rococo walls and furniture of the famous French Castel, while black-and-white checked robes and knits echoed the floors at Grand Trianon. Rousteing’s passion for the baroque is as familiar as the criticism oen leveled against it


BALMAIN

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www.balmain.com

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“DRESSMAKING IS THE ARCHITECTURE OF MOVEMENT”


BALMAIN

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world luxury | WEEKLY | Issue 78 | FASHION COUTURESPECIAL SPECIAL

LUXURY ART VIP FASHION

HAUTE COUTUR HEADLINE HEILBRUNN SUB-HEAD TIMELINE OF ART HISTORY

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AT THE MET For more than a century, couture has been emblematic of the triumph of costume and fashion. It represents the fusion of fashion—the modern entity that combines novelty and synergy with personal and social needs—and costume—the arts of dressmaking, tailoring, and cras constituent to apparel and accessories.

F

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Founded in the crucible of modernism’s invention in the middle years of the nineteenth century in paris, with the expanded patronage cultivated by the House of Worth, but still dependent upon the considerable support of Empress Eugénie, couture has long stood as the modern equilibrium between the garment as exquisite aggregate and the burgeoning notions of fashion as a system. The persistence of the haute couture is as roundly questioned and doubted and debated as the survival of painting or the supposed death of broadway. some may have doubted that the couture would survive its founder, the entrepreneurial Charles Frederick Worth. In the early years of the twentieth century, paul poiret took couture into an admiedly dangerous path

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of change, responding to Orientalist and social sirens, but even more to the beckoning of commerce and the use of the couture as a generating engine for fashion and fragrance broadly disseminated. Ironically, the couture flourished in the postwar period, beginning with the immense popular appeal of Christian Dior’s “New Look” in 1947. This supposed fashion novelty was so successful in part because it knew acutely its history and reconvened the finest skills to the couture. The couture house is customarily composed of two parts, one devoted to dressmaking (flou), the other devoted to tailoring (tailleur) of suits and coats. skilled workers in each area practice the arts apposite to the area. Embellishments and


accessories are added incrementally as applied decoration, oen from sources outside the couture house. However, with regard to the unembellished garment, the modern couture house is a completely autonomous workroom of dedicated ateliers. In fact, surprisingly, in view of the elegant locations of most couture houses, the creation of the garments occurs in the maisons particulières of the house, thus under the daily surveillance of the designer as well as in intimate connection with the vendeuses. Depending upon the designer, the design process might begin either with sketches or with a muslin or toile, draped and cut. Fit, both in its tailored form and in its dressmaking variant, is inevitably part of the value of the couture. A designer or trusted fier will conduct the client through a series of fiings to determine the minute adjustments of the garment to the individual’s size and sense of comfort.

The couture’s offering of distinction in design and technique remains a compelling force, one even more potent when much other quality has atrophied. It remains a discipline of ultimate imagination, unaccountable to cost, with the paradox of being the fashion most cognizant of its ideal clients. It is, as it began, a dream of quality in an era of industry and its succession. The haute couture persists in providing us with a paragon of the most beautiful clothing that can be envisioned and made in any time. www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/haut/ hd_haut.htm

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world luxury | WEEKLY | Issue 8 | COUTURE SPECIAL

VIP COUTURE

KENZO studying at the bunka College of Fashion in Tokyo, Kenzo Takada had a brief stint working in Japan, before relocating to paris in 1965, to work as a freelance designer. Aer working with the pisanti textile group, and later with Relations Textiles, a consulting company, Kenzo took over a boutique in 1970. The boutique, Jungle Jap, offered simple, practical, wearable designs that ran counter to the haute couture designs. The boutiques different style, immediately aracted models and trendseers.

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KENZO

His first autumn/winter collection for the store was made entirely out of coon due to his tight finances. The collection was presented at the Vivienne Gallery to success and had one of his models featured on the cover of Elle magazine.

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KENZO

Kenzo presented his collections in New York and Tokyo in 1971. Following this he won the ‘Fashion Editor Club of Japan’s prize’ the next year. proving his theatricality, in 1978 and 1979, he held his shows in a circus tent, featuring performers on horse wearing transparent uniforms, as well as himself riding an elephant. In 1983, Kenzo launched his first menswear collection. Also during the eighties he released his first fragrance for women in 1988. In 1991 a male fragrance followed. Two years later in 1993, the brand was bought by LVmH.

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KENZO

In 1999, Kenzo retired from the brand, leaving his assistants in charge of the house. In 2005, Kenzo reappeared as a decorative designer, creating Gokan Kobo, a brand of home furnishings. Kenzo’s designs are based on unstructured forms, no darts or zippers are used to ensure freespirited clothing is created. Using wider sleeves and armholes, his designs shape volumes. Known not to present classics, Kenzo designs separates that can be mixed for multiple colours and unusual prints.

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KENZO

Unlike other Japanese designers, Kenzo doesn’t use radical cuing, but instead creates young, wearable designs. www.kenzo.com

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VIP COUTURE

ELIE Elie saab is a Lebanese fashion designer. Long known in the middle East as a leading haute couturier, his overtly feminine aesthetic and romantic crystal-encrusted gowns initially aracted princesses, and later, film stars, enamoured with his middle Eastern detailing and European sensibility. “I was born with this passion of creating and making dresses and was always surrounded by beautiful women, from my sisters to neighbours,” he has said, “so the desire to dress them and make them look elegant was my constant inspiration.”

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Aer becoming interested in dress-making at the age of nine (his initial clientele being his sisters), saab opened his first couture atelier in beirut in 1982 when he was just 18 years old.

In beirut, his reputation grew from dressing the women in his neighbourhood, and was soon enhanced by high society women who began sporting his designs. He has always stated that his designs are about “glorifying women”.

His first ready-to-wear line launched in milan in 1998, and, with his penchant for brightly coloured silks, chiffons, pearl beading and embroidered lace, showcased a similar aesthetic as his couture pieces.

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ELIE SAAB

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In 2002, he became the first middle Eastern designer to dress an Oscar winner, when Halle berry accepted her best Actress gong for monster’s ball wearing one of his gowns.

He has also dressed - among others - Angelina Jolie, beyonce, Gwyneth paltrow, Charlize Theron, Catherine Zeta-Jones, and Queen Rania of Jordan. He released his first fragrance, Le parfum, in 2011.

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Today, Elie saab is a truly global empire, with boutiques in paris, London and Dubai. His clothes are on sale in 22 countries, and he has expanded his business into bags, shoes, fragrance and jewellery.

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VIP COUTURE

DICE KAYEK Ece Ege was born in boursa, the first capital of the Ooman Empire. she spends her youth, beside her jeweller father, in the heart of the ancient metropolis, rich in history and architecture. With her A-levels in her bag, Ece spent few years travelling before seling in paris to do her fashion design studies in EsmOD. For her first collection in 1991, Ece Ege created 13 shirts in white poplin, conceived a bit for herself. The success lad to the launching of her prt--porter line DICE KAYEK in 1992. The seasons pass, and the silhouees, eternally sophisticated, play willingly with contrast: voluminous skirts flirt with small blouses, tailor suits adjusted to waistline, small chest dresses marry with wide trousers

Today Ece favours mixing, preferring a universe swinging between tradition and modernity, keeping the same old luxury obtained by careful details research and aention for well made: a game of seams, collars and sleeves, unsuspected pleats, myriad hand-made embroideries With DICE, her second line launched in 1994, Ece proposes an everyday' fashion, casual and colourful, in soer prices. From the workshop located in an Eiffel style building, DICE KAYEK and DICE express a luxurious atmosphere of magical oriental souks and bosphorus charm, which still caresses Ece's memory. www.dicekayek.com

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VIP COUTURE

Dame Vivienne Westwood's popularity knows no bounds. Her punk aitude is more alive now than in the movement's Seventies heyday and her outspoken, Union Jack waving Englishness (with a few added safety pins and tea stains), is undiminished. Cuing edge but classic, her collections are unflinchingly rooted in her interests and beliefs, whether it is human rights or classical fiction. This collection was named 'Mirror the World' and it's about saving Venice (and the rest of the world) from the effects of climate change. Describing Venice as an 'emporium of culture' Vivienne references its 'carnivals', the dressing up, the disguises and how anything can seem possible; the poor can become rich, ugly can be beautiful and men can turn into women (and vice versa).

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The carnival influences are very apparent in the collection, most notably through the harlequin (the most representative poor character of Commedia dell'arte) who makes his own costume from fabric leovers. Exploring this idea, 'harlequin' inspired patchworks are found on knitwear, suiting and swimwear. UNISEX tailoring continues to be an integral part of the collection using Savile Row techniques, British linens and typical furnishing fabrics, while referencing the title of the show, 'broken mirror' dresses explore the concept of puing back together broken pieces of a mirror and how it is impossible to reconstruct it perfectly (there will be gaps and cracks), but that you'll create something new. www.viviennewestwood.com


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VIP FASHION

cOuTuRE cALEN IMPORTANT DATES 2016 Men’s Fashion Wednesday June 22 to Sunday June 26 , 2016 Wednesday 22 June 2016 10 am Lucien Pellat Finet 11 am Facetasm 12 pm Balenciaga 1:30 pm Oamc 2:30 pm Lemaire 3:30 pm Y/Project 4:30 pm Walter Van Beirendonck 5:30 pm Valentino 7 pm Carven 8 pm Haider Ackermann Thursday 23 June 2016 10:30 am Louis Vuion 11:30 am Boris Bidjan Saberi 12:30 pm Rick Owens

1:30 pm 2:30 pm 3:30 pm 4:30 pm 6 pm 7 pm 8 pm

Kolor Issey Miyake Men Julien David Andrea Crews Yohji Yamamoto Dries Van Noten Pigalle Paris

Friday 24 June 2016 10 am Junya Watanabe Man 11 am Maison Margiela 12 pm Ann Demeulemeester 1 pm Juun.J 2 pm 22/4_Hommes 3 pm Christian Dada 4 pm Cerruti 5 pm Comme Des Garcons Homme Plus 6 pm Givenchy 8 pm Berluti

TOP 5 LUXURY HOTELS TO STAY IN DURING THE Four Seasons Hotel George V, Paris Located just steps from the ChampsElysées, with private terraces that command all of Paris, lovingly restored 18thcentury tapestries, and a defining spirit of elegance and charm, Four Seasons Hotel George V, Paris redefines luxury in the City of Light. www.fourseasons.com/paris

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Ritz Paris The Ritz Paris is approaching its 2016 reopening aer an unprecedented restoration. The legendary hotel will open its doors with luxurious suites, including 15 historic prestige suites, and rooms. Renowned interior architect Thierry W Despont is overseeing the restoration which will unveil three restaurants, three bars


NDAR Saturday 25 June 2016 10 am Kenzo 11 am Sacai 12 pm Avoc 1 pm Études 3 pm Dior Homme 4 pm Wooyoungmi 5 pm Balmain Homme 6 pm Henrik Vibskov 7 pm White Mountaineering 8 pm Hermès 9 pm Ami Alexandre Maiussi Sunday 26 June 2016 10 am Officine Générale 11 am Lanvin 12 pm Agnès B. 2 pm Rynshu 3 pm Sean Suen 4 pm Paul Smith

5 pm 6 pm

Off-White Thom Browne

Haute Couture Sunday July 3 to Thursday July 7, 2016, in Paris Sunday 03 July 2016 2 pm Yuima Nakazato 3 pm Francesco Scognamiglio 4 pm Adeline André 5 pm Ulyana Sergeenko 6 pm Vetements 7 pm Guo Pei 8 pm Atelier Versace Continues over

COUTURE EVENT Part 1 including famed Bar Hemingway, and gorgeous gardens and terraces with retractable roofs and floor heating to be enjoyed year-round. École Ritz Escoffier will benefit from a third demonstration kitchen and the historic Salon Proust with its wood-burning fireplace will offer Ritz aernoon tea. The hotel’s signature Spa will feature a new area dedicated to CHANEL skin care, an indoor pool and a modern fitness center, while a discreet tunnel will be available for completely private guest arrivals and departures. www.lhw.com/hotel/Ritz-Paris-Paris-France

The Peninsula Paris Perfectly situated on Avenue Kléber, The Peninsula resides in the heart of Paris within walking distance of the city’s most famous monuments, museums and luxury shopping districts. Located in a late 19th century Haussmanian building, the

hotel has been meticulously restored and discreetly modernised enabling guests to experience the ultimate in 21st century style and convenience. hp://paris.peninsula.com

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cOuTuRE cALEN IMPORTANT DATES Monday 04 July 2016 10 am Schiaparelli 11 am Schiaparelli 12 pm Iris Van Herpen 2:30 pm Christian Dior 5 pm Christian Dior 6:30 pm Ralph&Russo 7:30 pm Giambaista Valli

Wednesday 06 July 2016 10 am Maison Margiela 11 am Franck Sorbier 12:30 pm Elie Saab 2:30 pm Jean Paul Gaultier 4 pm Viktor&Rolf 5 pm Zuhair Murad 6:30pm Valentino

Tuesday 05 July 2016 10 am Chanel 11 am Aouadi 12 pm Chanel 1:30 pm Alexis Mabille 2:30 pm Stéphane Rolland 4 pm Julien Fournié 5 pm J Mendel 6 pm Giorgio Armani Privé 7:30 pm Alexandre Vauthier

Thursday 07 July 2016 10:30am Haute Joaillerie

Credit: Mode à Paris - Fédération Française de la Couture du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode

TOP 5 LUXURY HOTELS TO STAY IN DURING THE Raffles Le Royal Monceau Hôtel Le Royal Monceau Raffles Paris is located in Paris’s 8th district, 550 yards from the Champs Elysees and the Arc de Triomphe and is only a 40minute drive from the airport. This luxury hotel spa in Paris offers a cinema room, an indoor swimming pool and a library of contemporary art books. Boasting hand-craed furniture designed by Philippe Starck, the spacious, air-conditioned rooms and suites come equipped with a desk, flat-screen TV and a refrigerated private bar with a choice of French products. A walk-in shower, bathrobes and Clarins toiletries are featured in the

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bathroom. A living area with executive working desk is included in all rooms. Covering a 1500 m² space, the Spa My Blend by Clarins includes a 30 yards infinity pool, the largest ever built in a Paris luxury hotel. Exclusive treatments, a fitness centre, relaxation rooms including a hammam and sauna, and dedicated fitness coaches are available. The spa can be accessed directly from every floor. Breakfast is served every morning at La Cuisine. Guests can dine at Il Carpaccio, the only Michelin-star Italian restaurant in Paris and sample Italian pastries prepared by superstar pastry chef Pierre Hermé. Hôtel Le Royal Monceau Raffles Paris is also home to the first Matsuhisa restaurant in France, run by world renowned Chef Nobu Matsuhisa. The cuisine is contemporary Japanese with influences of Asia and Latin America. www.leroyalmonceau.com


NDAR 2017 Men’s Fashion from Wednesday, January 18th to Sunday, January 22nd, 2017 Haute Couture from Sunday, January 22nd to Thursday, January 26th, 2017 Men’s Fashion from Wednesday, June 21st to Sunday, June 25th, 2017 Haute Couture from Sunday, July 2nd to Thursday, July 6th, 2017

2018 Men’s Fashion from Wednesday, January 17th to Sunday, January 21st, 2018

Men’s Fashion from Wednesday, June 20th to Sunday, June 24th, 2018

Haute Couture from Sunday, January 21st to Thursday, January 25th, 2018

Haute Couture from Sunday, July 1st to Thursday, July 5th, 2018

COUTURE EVENT Part 2 Mandarin Oriental, Paris Situated on rue Saint-Honoré and just steps from Place Vendôme, one of the most stylish districts in the world, Mandarin Oriental, Paris enjoys a wonderfully chic location. Surrounded by haute couture and only steps from the Louvre, our five-star hotel is the epitome of elegant luxury. Lying at the heart of one of the world’s most beautiful cities, Mandarin Oriental, Paris is defined by its beautiful interiors, acclaimed dining by Thierry Marx, a boutique spa and legendary five-star service. A breathtaking luxury hotel in the city's fashionable 1st Arrondissement, Mandarin Oriental, Paris offers a fabulous location, acclaimed gourmet dining and one of the most beautiful spas in Paris. www.mandarinoriental.com/paris/

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STELLA McCARTN Cuba was the inspiration for Stella McCartney‘s optimistic, vivacious and energetic collection. It came in stark contrast with New York’s grey skies on the day, but not so much with the garden party she threw to present the collection, where guests were entertained with stilt-walkers, a large supply of rum drinks, and models twirling around to the danzón in the most beautiful canary yellow and peach ankle-grazing flowy trapeze dresses. Aside from the gowns that will most likely be in everyone’s wish list, there were reinvented shirt dresses with sculptural tailoring–ideal for a summer in the city–as well as lile black and white shirt dresses embroidered in fresh floral prints, and ensembles with geometric cut-outs that provide the perfect mix between modernity and femininity. It’s a collection that can be adapted to every modern woman’s life, whether it be exploring the Greek islands, or jet-seing around the world’s fashion capitals.

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www.stellamccartney.com


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Born on April 24, in 1952, Jean-Paul grew up in a self-contained Parisian suburb. He spent a large part of his youth skipping school to stay at his grandmother's house, drawing imaginary high fashion collections and listening to the gossip of the ladies of the town who came to her for beauty treatments and tarot readings.

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Obsessed with haute couture, the shy ingenu was supported in his design ambitions by his parents albeit with some reserve - and started his first job on April 24, 1970, working for fashion house Pierre Cardin aer school. The position proved an allconsuming passion, and in his own words JeanPaul "failed brilliantly" aer taking his final exams.


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A dark period followed, when, as the most junior member of Cardin, Jean-Paul was made redundant because the house was over-staed. Overcoming this eventually, he worked briey for Jacques Esterel, where he learnt much of what was to become his signature style, and at the couture house Patou. Returning to Cardin in 1974, he was sent to Manila to represent the company.

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His designs proved hugely popular among Philippines" powerful clients, so much so, he says, that the government refused him an exit visa when he wanted to leave. Finally, he claimed that his grandmother had died and went home.


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Returning to France in July 1975, Jean-Paul raised the money to present his first collection, with the help of Francis Menuge, the man he has described as the love of his life. It was not until 1978, though, that he received the financial backing to produce his own line.

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The platinum blond went on to make the Eighties his own, becoming a part of the pop culture he had so closely followed. Jean-Paul's controversial designs, including dresses for men, and stints as a presenter on camp UK television show Eurotrash confirmed his cult status.


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Superstar Madonna certainly agreed, commissioning Jean-Paul in 1990 to design for her Blonde Ambition tour, where he produced outfits including her trademark pointed basque and bra, a look he had previously shown on the catwalk.

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In 1997 the controversial Frenchman designed the sumptuous Luc Besson film The Fih Element, and achieved his childhood dream of releasing his own couture line. And in 2003, fashion house Hermes announced Gaultier would take over as chief designer, the first time in 25 years the creative Frenchman has designed for any label other than his own.


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It seems Jean-Paul will always be set against the spirit of his contemporaries. Aî…šer shaking up the world of fashion as a youth, questioning accepted tenets and originating presentation techniques now built upon by designers such as John Galliano, his couture skills are increasingly rare among the creators who have followed in his footsteps.

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www.jeanpaulgaultier.com


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Jean Paul Gaultier The tribal earrings from Jean Paul Gaultier haute couture Fall/Winter 20152016Â

COUTURE

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COUTURE JEWELLERY

Elie Saab The gold leafy garlands at Elie Saab haute couture Fall/Winter 2015-2016Â

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Giambaista Valli The oversized earrings at Giambaista Valli haute couture Fall/Winter 2015-2016

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COUTURE JEWELLERY

Atelier Versace The floral headbands at Atelier Versace haute couture Fall/Winter 2015-2016

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Valentino The relic necklaces at Valentino haute couture Fall/Winter 2015-2016

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chanel The pearl clusters at Chanel haute couture Fall/Winter 2015-2016

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Alexandre Vauthier The Alexandre Vauthier and Mellerio dits Meller fine jewelry for haute couture Fall/Winter 20152016

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Armani Privé The crystal cameo earringss at Armani Privé haute couture Fall/Winter 2015-2016

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Schiaparelli The flower brooch at Schiaparelli haute couture Fall/Winter 2015-2016

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christian Dior The chain necklace at Christian Dior haute couture Fall/Winter 2015-2016

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www.worldcouturenews.com For the latest news on couture worldwide


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