SurfTalk, Annemarie Salen by Woodbury University

Vol. 49

Su rf

Why Do We Surf? Navigating the Surf

Q&A

with

Kelly Slater Surfboard Sales

e n i z a g a L i fe s t y l e M

Surftalk

Editorial

Surfing is a popular water sport and people enjoy surfing for various reasons. the motivations can vary from one individual to another. In this chapter we go over common reasons why people choose to surf.

Q&A

Why Do We Surf

In this Pro Spotlight, Surf Magazine invites you to embark on a captivating journey through the life and differences in surfboards. You are even able to purchase a surfboard right from the website!

Surfboard Sales

Review

Explore our collection of surfing accessories, including wax, fins, and surfboards, and wetsuits to keep you well-equipped for your surfing adventures.

Surftalk

I wanted to take a moment to express my sincere appreciation for the opportunity to read and review this new magazine, “Surftalk”. As the editor of Surftalk, I have had the privilege of exploring various literary works over the years, but your manuscript on surfing truly stood out for its exceptional quality and engaging narrative. Your book brings to life the world of surfing in a manner that is both captivating and insightful. Your passion for the subject matter is palpable in every page, and it shines through the meticulously researched content and your vivid descriptions of the waves, surfers, and the culture surrounding this exhilarating sport. It is evident that you have invested significant time and effort in gaining an in-depth understanding of surfing life, and your dedication to accuracy is commendable. One of the aspects I found most commendable about your manuscript is the way it seamlessly blends the personal stories of surfers with historical insights, technical knowledge, and environmental awareness. The book strikes a wonderful balance between appealing to the seasoned surfers looking for advanced insights and newcomers to the sport seeking a comprehensive introduction. Her inclusive approach will undoubtedly make your book accessible and enjoyable to a broad readership. I must also commend your writing style, which is both eloquent and engaging. Thank you for teaching people of all ages, young or old, boy or girl, experience ir no experience, that anyone can go out and be a surfer. Takes practice and discipline, as any sport does.

Kelly Slater Editor

Surftalk

BY THE NUMBERS Editor in Chief .......................... Jayne Haugen Olsen Creative Director ................................ Brian Johnson Executive Editor .................................... Sara Elbert Deputy Editor ................................... Jennifer Buege

The largest wave ever surfed was

feet

ALMOST

40% of SURFERS are WOMEN

Senior Editor ........................................ Sydney Berry Contributing Editor ....................... Andrew Zimmern Contributing ...................................... Alison Oleskey Bookings Editors Chelsea Yin SHO & Company, Inc.

Senior Copy Editor .................. Jean Marie Hamilton Spanish Editor/Translator ..................... Edgar Rojas Art Directors ....................................... Amy Ballinger Ted Rossiter

Digital Prepress Group ................ Steve Mathewson Bill Sympson

Director of Project Management .......... Frank Sisser

Director of Circulation ............................ Bea Jaegar Circulation Manager .............................. Carin Russel Circulation Assistant ............................. Anna Buresh Chief Marketing Officer ......................... Tim Mapes Director U.S. Marketing Communications ............................... Julieta McDurry

3.8

MILLION

surfers worldwide

The Pacific Ocean provides

31%

of all the surf spots in the world

CA – OR – WA – HI

In 2006 Steve King rode the longest wave ever surfed 12,000 meters

minutes

Kelly Slater earned

$4,071,360

during his tour in 2022

Surftalk

Editorial

Navigating the

Surf

Unwritten Rules of Surfing Etiquette

It’s important to approach the topic of surfing etiquette and the perception of modern surfers with an open mind and a balanced perspective. While it may be tempting to make sweeping generalizations about surfers today compared to those in the past, it’s more productive to consider some factors that have contributed to changes in surfing culture and etiquette. One significant change in the surfing world is the increased popularity of the sport. With more people taking up surfing, lineups at popular breaks have become crowded, leading to heightened competition for waves. This can sometimes result in surfers appearing less courteous, as they may feel pressured to catch as many waves as possible in a crowded lineup. Surfing has evolved into a multi-billion dollar industry, attracting sponsors, competitions, and media attention. This commercialization has led to a more competitive and aggressive environment in some cases, where surfers are driven by the pursuit of sponsorship deals and fame, potentially undermining traditional etiquette. Modern surfboards are designed for high-performance maneuvers and can be more maneuverable but also more aggressive than traditional longboards. This shift in board design has influenced the way people surf and approach waves, potentially leading to a more aggressive atmosphere in the water. Hate the player, not the game.

Surftalk

As the sport grows in popularity, some newcomers may not be properly educated about surf etiquette. In the past, surf culture emphasized respect for the ocean and other surfers, which helped maintain a sense of camaraderie. The lack of education on these values can lead to a decline in etiquette among newer surfers. Surfing culture has evolved along with society. The values and attitudes of the newer generations may differ from those of previous generations, leading to a perception of a decline in etiquette. While these factors may contribute to the perception that modern surfers lack etiquette when compared to surfers from years ago, it’s crucial to recognize that there are many respectful and courteous surfers today. Surfing, like any other sport, will continue to evolve, and fostering a sense of respect for both the ocean and fellow surfers is a collective responsibility.

Engaging in positive conversations, educating newcomers about surf etiquette, and leading by example can help ensure that surfing remains a respectful and inclusive sport for all. The popularity of surfing has grown significantly over the years, leading to crowded surf breaks, especially in popular coastal areas. This increased congestion can make it more challenging for surfers to navigate crowded lineups, leading to frustration and, at times, less than ideal behavior. Surfing has become big business, with surf brands, competitions, and sponsorships generating significant revenue. Some argue that the commercialization of the sport has shifted the focus from the joy of riding waves and preserving the natural environment to a more competitive and profit-driven mindset.

Surftalk

surfer closest

to the peak

always gets priority Surfing traditionally has strong environmental ties, and many surfers have been advocates for ocean conservation. Some surfers today may not be as environmentally conscious as previous generations, leading to issues like littering and pollution in surf spots. It’s important to remember that while there may be concerns about etiquette and skill levels in some surfers today, there are also many individuals and organizations working to promote respect for the sport’s history, traditions, and the environment. In the past, many surfers learned from experienced mentors who emphasized proper etiquette, respect for others, and

Surftalk

an appreciation for the ocean. With the growth of the sport and the rise of surf schools, not all new surfers have the same access to this kind of mentorship. In today’s fast-paced society, some surfers might prioritize catching as many waves as possible or documenting their experiences for social media rather than appreciating the spiritual and meditative aspects of surfing. This shift in priorities can lead to a lack of etiquette and mindfulness in the water. Surfing can be a transformative and positive experience, and many surfers remain dedicated to preserving its values and promoting etiquette both in and out of the water.

Surf Spots that Suit your Ability In surfing, the general rule of thumb is one man/woman, one wave. In most cases, you can’t have two surfers riding the same wave in the same direction. When you disrespect the right-of-way rule, you’re “burning” someone’s wave and showing the utmost lack of respect. You are actually ruining a wave for someone else like you, who also enjoys surfing. Dropping in may result in severe injuries and damaged surfboards, so don’t do to others what you wouldn’t want to be done to yourself. Relax, take a deep breath, and wait for your turn. There will always be another wave man. Earth won’t run out.

Snaking is a very common and disrespectful behavior that can be seen, especially in crowded lineups. Paddling around one or more surfers to get closer to the peak and gain priority is rude conduct. Select the best position in the line-up, and do not paddle around other surfers, always wanting to catch all waves. Be patient. There are waves for everyone.Paddle wide, not through the peak, and stay in the water if you get caught inside and a surfer is enjoying his surf line.Although some longboarders may not use this rule wisely - they should leave some waves to shortboarders - in theory, they hold priority. Sense and sensibility tell us to avoid calling priority in all waves.

Surftalk

The general rule of thumb is the person closest to the peak of the wave has the right of way.

If both people are side by side at the peak, then the person to their feet first has the right of way. Never “Drop-In” on another surfer, which means that if someone else is already surfing a wave in your direction, do not take off in front of them. This is just plain disrespectful and dangerous. Surfers don’t like this. The pack of surfers located near the main peak of a wave is known as the lineup. Surfers lineup next to each other and wait their turn to catch a wave. Cutting in front of someone in order to catch a wave sooner is known as snaking and is completely frowned upon in surfing. Always paddle around the peak of the wave using the channel, which is a deep spot in the ocean where the waves don’t break.

Surftalk

Be respectful of everyone surfing around you, especially if you are a guest at a surf spot. Beginner surfers should never paddle into an area where advanced surfers are catching waves. Never paddle straight into the peak of the wave. This is where people are taking off on the wave which means you will be right in their way. When your wave is over, paddle as fast as you can to the channel so you are out of the way of other people surfing behind you, coming in your direction. You can always rest once you are out of the way of other surfers. Never let go of your surfboard, even if there is a big wave that’s about to pound you. There could be someone behind you and your surfboard could hit other people.

Surftalk

Usually the waves are much more powerful and dangerous in these areas. Beginner surfers should always check with the local lifeguards for dangerous rip currents or strong surf conditions before paddling out. When in doubt, don’t paddle out. Please help keep our beaches clean, leave only footprints. This last one is vague and I personally hate it. Longboarders club, old boys club, whatever you call it, you know the crew that do this. Ah, the oldest excuse, “I thought you wouldn’t make it” or “you were so deep”. This is super situational but I am not against it at all, but only with strict situations. If the person on your everyone starts somewhere and has made

Surftalk

mistakes. inside can’t go across the wave face and you know or have seen this, fine, but hang back and watch to make sure they only go straight. If the wave is massively racing ahead and this person is guaranteed to be caught behind and not getting barrelled sure. If it might barrel, hell no. If the surfer is pretty decent, hell no. Never rule out the chance they might make it. Again this just comes down to reading the wave and having observed the person beforehand. Don’t kook shame. Above all, don’t kook shame, there is no prize for making others feel bad or saying anything to make yourself feel better.

If you make a mistake, just apologise, so much of this just comes down to communicating. The same thing can be said for pretty much everything in life and surfing isn’t different. There is no need to feel bad or anything similar, they sit so far out and then paddle madly for every single wave. I personally don’t know what’s right or wrong here, but my opinion is that if you have to paddle 20-40 metres in towards the beach to get the wave, you are out of position and if I am now closer to the peak, that trumps your mad effort of paddling. Closer to the peak trumps I was paddling for it first. Kind of like rock beats scissors.

Oh and don’t be afraid to call someone off the wave. If they are paddling for it while you are riding, any noise will do, just make loud noises at them and they get the gist. I tend to just repeat yeah about 5 times but go with what you want. If you are both paddling for it and they are on your outside, aka about to drop in on you, when you are getting to your feet, call them off, and let them know. Or call what way you are going or ask them what way they are going. Either way, it’s just communication. If that person is you who drops in or gets called at, don’t feel bad, just wave and say sorry or one of those two.

“so much of this just comes down to communicating.”

Surftalk

Why Do We

Surf? by Annemarie Salen

his short story was written for SURFER Magazine in 1994, last-minute before deadline as usual, in a single sitting in a tiny, sweltering room out in Makaha Beach. This little ditty was designed to evade a more studious (and time-consuming) essay to answer the assignment of Why We Surf. I had forgotten about this decades-old story but a number of people have asked about it over the years, so here it is dredged out of the attic: ”So, why do you surf?” A surfer on a flight to Hawaii is confronted with that question so often that it becomes as routine as the air safety demonstration. The man in the next seat wasn’t much different than the hundred before that had asked the same thing: Late-middle-age, suit and tie, sort of a human Chrysler. One of the “Legions of the Unjazzed,” as Phil Edwards had once called the non-surfing herd. I’d seen millions like him on many roads to the surf: staring vacantly at stoplights in a cranberry four-door, smoke curling from a cigarette pinned to the wheel in a pale hand, Kleenex box on the rear dash, bumpersticker with some inane yet telling pun. (“I owe, I owe, so off to work I go”). one,” I said.

Surftalk

le, a re y t ligi s e f i on even….” “It’s more a l “Surfing is like one of the bright and ornate tide-pool creatures that crumble to pieces when you try to remove them from the tide-pool, and shrivel up grey and lifeless after you put them in jars of formaldehyde. “Sure, that might be true enough,” I admitted, “if surfing was just a linear sport that consisted of riding a wave in to shore and paddling back out, like going from hole to hole on the links. …But surfing is so much more that mere athleticism or acrobatics, more than just ‘birdies’. “Hmmm. …sounds like some cultish California sort of deal,” said the man. Silence. “Look,” I said finally, “forget everything you think you know about surfing. The Beach Boys, beach bums, hanging ten, ‘dude’ this and ‘dude’ that — it’s all just superficial Hula-Hoop fad-bytes. “Now,” I continued, “when you get to Hawaii you’ve gotta go down to the beach at Waikiki. Like that delicate and lovely creature, surfing has dissolved into sodden mush regardless of the medium that’s tried to depict it.”

Surftalk

Exploring New Waters Take off the monkey suit and the hard shoes and sift your bare toes through the warm sand. Breathe the Hawaiian air deep into your lungs, and smell the salty tang of open ocean mixed with the musky scent of mountain sun showers on plumeria. Feel the sun warm your back, and look seaward to where the waves are breaking like wedges of snow skidding over turquoise, and think to yourself ‘This is where surfing was born; this is how it feels to really be ALIVE.’ If you don’t understand the attraction of surfing then, well...” “Hmmph...sounds like a great vacation,” scoffed my seat mate. “But what about making a living, a good job — you can’t just surf all your life.” “Well, that depends,” I countered. “Would you rather have the cranberry Lexus or feel the sand between your toes every day? For most surfers it really does come down to a pagan hatred of shoes.”He smiled politely and glanced down at the magazine on his lap. Conde Nast Traveler. A call-out quote caught me eye: “My husband and I recently spent a week in the Cinque Terre and the pesto was to die for...”

this is

how it

feel s

to r

eal ly

be A VE LI

.’ Travel is the mantle of the surfing life. In our veins runs the blood of every English seadog, every Viking that yearned for new horizons. What surfers most remember when rummaging through their memories are the sensations and moods of The Hunt, not the base mechanics of waves ridden from A to B (It’s no coincidence that our most enduring slang borrows form hunting lingo — ‘safari’ and ‘big gun,’ getting ‘skunked’). How that first duck-dive felt after a long, sweaty drive into Baja, the cool water combing through hair thick with desert dust. The fall mornings with Santa Ana winds ablaze with the aroma of chaparral. Stopping for thick-shakes at an Aussie milk bar on the way to Bell’s Beach. Watching a fresh Antarctic swell pound the tip of southern Africa from Table Mountain, then racing it to Jeffrey’s Bay through the long winter night.

Surftalk

Overseas The man thought for a minute, seriously thought, I’ll give him that. Finally he said: “It just seems so hedonistic to fritter away your life just … hanging out at the beach. What about a career and responsibilities and paying the bills? Isn’t there more to life than … than just fun?” “Sandy didn’t think so,” I replied. “Sandy? Who’s Sandy?” “Sandy was a stray dog in Waikiki in 50s.

low ly

dis i

g tin

l th i t n

. t surf

ing

an dt he

“The beachboys there taught him to surf. He loved the beach life, and was really fond of surfing. Finally I broke the silence. “You know, the best way to describe why people surf is how you feel every time you go into the ocean. It’s a soul-fix, regardless of what the surf is like. When you get out of the water, you peel off your wetsuit and dig your feet into the warm sand. The breeze plays over your skin like cool peppermint.

nte gr a

l-fi x, regardless of what the surf i u o s a s like. It’s

x e ne

efore b u o y ially You are part

full , g n surfi

ud o yy

Surftalk

t surfi ng is so much u B … m

his short story was written for Surfer Magazine in 1994, last-minute before deadline as usual, in a single sitting in a tiny, sweltering room out in Makaha Beach. This little ditty was designed to evade a more studious (and time-consuming) essay to answer the assignment of Why We Surf. A surfer on a flight to Hawaii is confronted with that question so often that it becomes as routine as the air safety demonstration. The man in the next seat wasn’t much different than the hundred before that had asked the same thing: Late-middle-age, suit and tie, sort of a human Chrysler. One of the “Legions of the Unjazzed,” as Phil Edwards had once called the non-surfing herd. I’d seen millions like him on many roads to the surf: staring vacantly at stoplights in a cranberry four-door, smoke curling from a cigarette pinned to the wheel in a pale hand, Kleenex box on the rear dash, bumpersticker with some inane yet telling pun (“I owe, I owe, so off to work I go”). Always I shuddered at the thought of their lives and destinations. Not so much with sympathy or or angst, but with relief.

Surftalk

ore tha n that...

What if it was ME that was going to some 9th-storie beehive office instead of that lonely cove up the coast? Sometimes, mired in traffic, it seemed like I was the only one going somewhere special, a place one desperately wanted to be, while those in the other cars around me all had the defeated, slumped shoulders and glass eyes of those headed to the in-laws. Like this man sitting next to me: what if I was on a passenger jet to Hawaii wearing hard shoes, Argyle socks, with a heart that couldn’t pump me up a flight of stairs? “I don’t know if I could explain it to you ... or anyone,” I said. ike that delicate and lovely creature, surfing has dissolved into sodden mush regardless of the medium that’s tried to depict it.” “Well, I’m sure all sportsmen feel the same way about their sport,” replied the man, absently flipping through a glossy magazine on his lap. “See, I’m a golfer. In fact, after my meetings I’m going to play a little golf in Hawaii.”

Longboard Longboards are generally eight feet plus, wider rounded noses and a lot more foam volume.

ch Boys, beach a e B bum T he s,

hanging ten, ‘sup dude’ Short board

“Sure, that might be true enough,” I admitted, “if surfing was just a linear sport that consisted of riding a wave in to shore and paddling back out, like going from hole to hole on the links. … But surfing is so much more that mere athleticism or acrobatics, more than just ‘birdies’ and ‘touchdowns.’ It’s more a lifestyle, a religion even….” “Hmmm. …sounds like some cultish California sort of deal,” said the man. Silence. “Look,” I said finally, “forget everything you think you know about surfing. The Beach Boys, beach bums, hanging ten, ‘dude’ this and ‘dude’ that — it’s all just superficial Hula-Hoop fad-bytes. “Now,” I continued, “when you get to Hawaii you’ve gotta go down to the

Just as the wave breaks, the surfers jump from their bellies to their feet, crouching on their boards. Being able to stand up is the mark of an experienced surfer. Surfers ride the wave as it breaks toward the shore. As the wave falls and loses power, surfers can exit the wave by turning their boards back toward open water. Surfers can also exit by simply lowering themselves back to their boards and paddling back out. Of course, the force of the wave can end surfers’ rides by crashing on or over them. Surfers can be tossed above a wave or below it. Then the process of paddling out to the surf line begins again.

Their shorter length makes them faster and perfect for tackling more powerful waves.

Fish board All-around type of surfboard that is typically suitable for small to medium waves.

Surftalk

Review

ESSENTIAL PRODUCTS The Stewart 7 foot 6 inch longboard provides stability, speed and endurance every time you’re out in the water. This board has been a fan favorite since the 1980s. stewartboards.com

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20 Surftalk

SurfGrip Wax

oo g y

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SurfGrip Wax is not just wax. It’s your secret weapon to conquering the waves with style and confidence. Our specially formulated wax provides the perfect balance between tackiness and durability, ensuring you stay firmly planted on your board in even the most challenging conditions. surfgripwax.com

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th e

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New g n ci

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Our funboards are designed for all skill levels, from beginners looking to catch their first wave to seasoned surfers seeking a fresh thrill. Join the Funboard community, where every wave is an adventure, and every ride is a memory waiting. casurflessons.com

Surftalk

Q&A

How did surfing originate?

What’s the importance of surf etiquette?

Surfing has ancient roots and is believed to have originated in Polynesia, with Hawaiians often credited with popularizing the modern form of the sport.

Surf etiquette includes respecting the right of way, not dropping in on others, and being mindful of the lineup to ensure a positive and safe surfing experience for everyone.

What are the advantages of different fin set ups?

What does “hang 10” mean?

Having 3 equally sized fins is the standard for having speed, control, and turnability. 4 fins and twin fins feel fast and loose, since they don’t have that fin in the middle for stability. Single fins feel stable but may not feel as fast.

22 Surftalk

Hanging ten is one of the most difficult surfing stunts you can ever learn to do. To hang ten, you have to perfectly balance your longboard, so that the back of the board is covered by the wave. This allows the rider to walk to the front of the board and hang all ten toes over the front of the board.

What are the different types of surfboards?

Can you surf in cold water, and what gear is needed?

There are several types, including shortboards for maneuverability, longboards for stability and ease, and funboards that offer a compromise between the two.

Yes, surfers can surf in cold water by wearing wetsuits, booties, gloves, and hoods to stay warm and comfortable. The thickness of the wetsuit depends on the water temperature.

How do you paddle out for a wave?

How can I improve my surfing skills?

Paddling involves lying on the board, using your arms to move through the water efficiently. Proper technique is crucial for reaching the lineup where waves are breaking.

Practice consistently, focus on proper technique, seek feedback from experienced surfers, and consider taking advanced lessons as you progress.

Surftalk

What’s the significance of the “lineup” in surfing? The lineup is the area where surfers wait for waves to break. It’s crucial to position yourself properly to catch the best waves.

What’s the ideal stance for a surfer on their board? Surfing has ancient roots and is believed to have originated in Polynesia, with Hawaiians often credited with popularizing the modern form of the sport.

How does a surfer catch a wave? Surfers paddle vigorously to match the speed of an approaching wave and then pop up on their boards as the wave lifts them.

What is the difference between off shore/on shore winds? Offshore winds are best for surfing Offshore winds” are winds blowing from the land out to sea, “onshore winds” blow in towards the land from the ocean. There’s also sideshore, side/offshore, side/onshore, etc.

What length leash do I buy? Just slightly longer than the length of your board. The leash is there to keep you tethered to your board so that if you happen to fall off, your board stays nearby. The longer the leash, the longer it takes you to reel in your board.

24 Surftalk

DO YOU WANT TO BECOME A SURFER?

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26 Surftalk

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Surftalk

respect

t’s not my trash but it’s my planet

our

oceans