‘ W GOA O
DECEMBER 2015
something is always brewing
VINEET BHATIA
Master Of Indian Cuisine
ALAIN DUCASSE Le Dalí
SEBASTIAN NOHSE Culinary Excellence
KENTARO TORII Heart In Italy
SAMUEL LINDER
The Peninsula New York
JUN TANAKA The Ninth
MARCELLO MEREU
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Georgianna Hiliadaki Nikos Roussos WO’GOA December 2015 -
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‘ W GOA O something is always brewing
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Editor Fabian deCastro
experience the adventure! anytime, anyplace, anywhere!
Lifestyle Editor Doug Singer Feature Editor Oilda Barreto Editorial Contributor Mario Bermeo Jr FJMdesign Photography Consultant Creative Design Studio Publisher
‘ W OGOA something is always brewing
IZZY Publishing Pvt. Ltd.
WO’GOA™ is an online digital publication published by: Izzy Publishing Pvt. Ltd. Unit 14, Agnelo Colony, Kerant, Caranzalem, 403002 Goa, India Tel: +91(832) 2463234 Fax: +91(832) 2464201 sales@wogoa.in. Company registration number U22100GA2011PTC006731 WO’GOA™ New York Head of Operations - North America Doug Singer 404 East 66 Street, Suite 2E New York, NY 10065 E-mail: doug.singer@wogoa.in Marketing & Advertising Joel Savio Nazareth Call: +91 832 246 3234 E-mail: joel@wogoa.in Web Administrator Joel Savio Nazareth
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Cover Image Credit:
Georgianna Chiliadaki and Nikos Roussos Funky Gourmet - Athens
www.wogoa.in 16 - WO’GOA December 2015
‘ GOA W O ™
something is always brewing
In this elaborate issue of WO’GOA Magazine we will get to know India’s only 3 Michelin Star Chef, Vineet Bhatia, as well as make a visit to Masala Library with Jiggs Kalra, the magnum-opus of ‘The Czar of Indian Cuisine’ and tastemaker to the nation. We will go on a journey while at the restaurant Pan Asian at New Delhi’s Hotel Sheraton that will begin with an intensive tour of the Chinese Sichuan and Beijing province, Thailand, and ultimately The Land of the Rising Sun, Japan.
Alain Ducasse and Christophe Saintagne will revisit Paris’ Restaurant Le Dali and German native, Sebastian Nohse will take us to the culinary front lines of the world’s tallest hotel, Dubai’s JW Marriott Marquis. While in Dubai, we will also stop in at Ruth’s Chris Steak House before globetrotting over to Hamburg’s warehouse district where we will check in with Chef Thomas Sampl for North German cuisine in an innovative new style. Kentaro Torii will chime in from London to share his unique Japanese spin on Italian cuisine, before we pull up to the table for a 9-course meal in Athens, Greece with Georgianna Chiliadaki and Nikos Roussos at Funky Gourmet. Winging our way over to New York will have us greeted at The Peninsula Hotel where we will be introduced their new Executive Chef, Samuel Linder. Moving East, Chef Marcello Mereu will tell us about his experience at Santini in London, Cheval Blanc in Switzerland, and his ultimate move to Tokyo. Hong Kong’s Michelin-starred Chef Paul Lau Ping will be highlighted, as well as exquisite Cantonese and Royal Thai Cuisine at Greater China Club, before Yoshiharu Kaji tantalizes diners at Felix at The Peninsula Hong Kong with his modern European cuisine. Next we will hop over to London to get a glimpse of the brand spanking new ‘The Ninth,’ by celebrated Chef Jun Tanaka before heading over to another new offering, Diciannove. Our last destination in London will be The Happenstance, which is set to make its mark on the Square Mile and finally, we will head back to Goa and visit Republic of Noodles, ensconced in the heart of Candolim, at Lemon Tree Amarante Beach Resort. Enjoy! Doug Singer Lifestyle Editor WO’GOA December 2015 -
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DECEMBER 2015
CONTENTS 28
Master Of Indian Cuisine
50
Le Dalí
64
Culinary Excellence
78
Unique Japanese Touch
98
9 Course Meal
120
Culinary Innovator
126
A Journey From West To East
140
Dubai’s Number One Dining Destination
158
SKD Academy
160
Driven By Passion
166
North German Cuisine
172
Winter Solstice Banquets
182
Ruth’s Chris Steak House
190
The Face Of Felix
194
The Ninth
198
Masala Library by Jiggs Karla
206
Instinctively Italian
212
The Happenstance
216
Republic Of Noodles
220
Pan Asian
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‘ GOA W O ™
something is always brewing
CHOCOLATE SOUP Georgianna Chiliadaki and Nikos Roussos Funky Gourmet - Athens Photo Panagiotis Beltzinitis
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E X C E P T I O N A L A L W A Y S B U T
W E ’ L L
T O
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H O O S I N G
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T O
O N E
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O F
O U R
I M P O R T A N T L Y
A N D
A B O U T
P A Y I N G
M O M E N T
I S
T O O
D O
S L O W
D I S C O V E R I N G
PA S S I O N AT E
G O
540
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W H AT
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&
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M E E T I N G
T H E Y
M E N
B E S T
T H E
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B U T
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W O M E N
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The Whitehall Penthouse Terrace
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WO’GOA
“THE BEST EXPERIENCE OF MY LIFE” – Kieran Holliday, UK
WE LOVE NATURE AND ITS WONDERS We believe it’s important to preserve and protect the marvels that surround us. At Modisa Wildlife Project you will become an active member in our day-to-day work, doing everything from helping to build and maintain facilities, to cleaning predator enclosures after the animals are fed. The work, combined with the activities, will bring you up-close with the animals and African culture. All the activities at Modisa – from farm work, bush walks and lectures to feeding full-grown lions, leopards and wild dogs – will challenge you both physically and mentally. They’ll ensure you have a more unique and adventurous experience in the African bush than you can ever imagine.
WHAT TO EXPECT Lectures on the ecosystem; Hiking in the wilderness with specialized guides; Sleep-outs in the African bush under the breathtaking Kalahari sky (May – October); Up-close encounters with big cats and other local predators; Opportunities to feed the animals, including lions, leopards and wild dogs; Cleaning the enclosures and fence patrol; Basic tracking training; Animal viewing & game drives; Participating in game counts and other area surveys; Farm work and daily life in the camp; Enjoying the experience with like-minded people from all over the world …and much much more.
W O‘GOA supports
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from 1317 sq.ft. from 2385 sq.ft.
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VINEET BHATIA
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WO’GOA
Vineet Bhatia
the face of modern progressive Indian cuisine Text Oilda Barreto Vineet Bhatia, one of the world’s most sought-after chefs, talks about his passion for cooking….which was latent in his formative years… “I grew up in Bombay near Juhu and every morning my wakeup call at 6:30 was the Gulf Air flight to Bahrain, waking up to the sound of the engines, my brother and I loved it and would actually cycle down to school to Villa Parle and we would go through the Juhu airport… the idea was to see the helicopters and the airplanes. In the early ‘70’s there were no security guards so you could walk in/walk out and the love was always there. We were very middle class, a simple family. My father was an accountant and my mother was a lawyer. Other family members were in different services like doctors or engineers as is normal in India, become a doctor or engineer. I never really was keen on that; I wanted to be a pilot. Do my engineering first and then flying, the whole idea was to go into space, be an astronaut.” Vineet Bhatia truly wanted to join the air force when he took his defense exams but to his dismay was turned down. The medics told him he didn’t meet the height requirements. He tried textile designing but that wasn’t his “cup of Darjeelling” either. That’s when he got the idea about being a barman, mixing drinks sounded exotic. He joined hotel school but was told he was too small to stand behind a bar. “So they put me in the back, in the kitchen, as if to say you are not worth standing out front, so you go to the back” says Vineet.
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VINEET BHATIA
Blueberry and Black Cardamom Kulfi
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It was 1985 and it was an eye opener for me, I had no love for food, I used to run away from food except mitahi (Indian sweets) and other sweets but don’t ask me to eat food. When I walked into a kitchen, and I still remember, it was so well disciplined, this was the Oberoi Towers, which was Oberoi Trident at Nariman Point. At 6:45 in the morning they made you stand in line to check your shoes, nails, haircut, your shave, your uniform and if it is not correct, people were sent back. I thought, wow this great, this is some nice kitchen, it’s a clean kitchen, its well run, well mannered, and people are not abusive and shouting. So I decided this is what I wanted to do. I actually learned to cook. I would spend hours and hours of my off days and I would go and work in the kitchen to make sure I learned. I did it for myself, I was greedy for knowledge and I was young, 17 or 18 at that time, and I so wanted to learn. I wanted to experience what the world was about. While most of my friends were loitering around, going to movies and cinema halls, I was actually spending all my spare time in college, working in the kitchen.” Young Vigneet’s chef life was just beginning…. “I was 20 or 21 when I joined the renowned Oberoi School. It is where you are selected from all over India, they hand pick and train you for a further two years. “I went through the training, five days a week: three days in college and two days on the job and we had the weekends off. I used to finish college, or work by 4:35 and would get to into kitchen by 6:37 on my own, on my off days, to go back in the kitchen and work. My batch mates used to say, ‘this guy is crazy he is trying to save money’ but it was not about saving money, it was about learning.” WO’GOA December 2015 -
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VINEET BHATIA
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‘Vineet Bhatia’s food does not conform to the norms of traditional Indian cookery - but the combinations, the contrasts in textures, flavours and temperatures, and the sheer expressive range of the cooking that comes from Bhatia himself...
Part of their training was to work in various kitchens; the patisserie, the Chinese, the Indian, the coffee shop, the banquet, the soup section, the butchery, and all had fixed timings. Vineet used to come half hour early (and created a fixed habit to always be early), “We never finished off at 4, the staff goes but you, as a trainee, you’re the apprentice. I would put in the extra hours; it would cross 4:30 or 5:00, I would go back to the locker room, shower, freshen up, change and I was back in the kitchen at 6:00 where I could do whatever I wanted. I used to go back to work on a tandoor or on the curry section, and would work till 12:00. I would struggle for sleep for 5 to 6 hours but the fire was there, the passion was there and purely with the interest of how can I grasp whatever I can in the shortest amount of time…
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VINEET BHATIA
Vineet Bhatia was finally ready to work…“When you finish your two years you’re asked for your placement, where do you want to go, just for formality. They already know where they are going to put you. I asked for Bombay, not because Bombay was my home town but because in Bombay was the busiest hotel in the group. The chefs at the hotel in Delhi requested for me to stay back at the corporate office, ‘we are happy with his work’, so it became a tussle at that stage, ‘where will we put Vineet as placement?’ Fortunately for me the gentlemen who came for the final interview was the senior vice president and was based in Bombay, he had my file. There was a request from Bombay to get me back and so I went back to Bombay. There were five from my batch who were transferred there. We were in the corporate chef’s office, all lined up. I was the shortest and youngest in my batch as each one was asked where they wanted to work. Someone said Chinese, someone said French, someone else said patisserie and I said Indian. The chef said ‘go to the kitchen you have asked for but Vineet, you
Scallop and Prawn Brochette
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stay back’ so I stayed back and I got a telling of my life. He said, ‘why you want to do Indian, there is no scope for Indian, you will do kababs and biryani and breads all your life, you will not grow, you need to become a continental chef and this is what you will do.’ And I just said, ‘no I want to do Indian’ but he was adamant he said ‘no, nothing doing, you will go into continental.’ I was under his nose; I was put in continental, where you have to work the duty hours again. But on my off hours I used to go back to Indian. So, they were fed up with me and as a punishment, they put me in the butchery. 11am for tea and break at 1pm for lunch. 11:00 was the busiest time in the Indian kitchen, we pick up food for the banquet and for the coffee shop and even though that was my half hour break, the guys in the kitchen were uneducated and they didn’t want to grow. I would have to guide them, as there was no proper chef handling them, so they would bank on me that I would come back and I pick up the banquet.
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VINEET BHATIA
I saw how they struggle with butchery because most of the banquets in India are run for Indian restaurants and Indian food, continental food is not that big, and they were given the wrong cuts of meats, poultry etc. So, I would chef there and make sure the right stuff is served because it is our food; it needs to be done properly. So I stayed and did that for the six months. The head chef would call me and say why haven’t you gone home, I said I want to be here and then he said, ‘In six months’ time come back and give me report of all you have done and I made a big eight page report and gave it to him. He read the first two pages and then he tore it up and threw it in the bin, he said, ‘Where is your heart?’ I said, ‘Indian kitchen’, then he said ‘go to Indian kitchen’ and that is what I did.” The future award winning chef went back to the same kitchen where he was a trainee from 1985 to 1987. When he came back in 1990, he was head of the kitchen. “Six years after the attacks in Mumbai, the hotel got
24 Carat Chicken
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bombed, it went through a whole change and that is the time the Oberio’s called me back.” There is where he decided to modernize Indian food. However, he quickly became frustrated with the hotel work ethic and not being able to think outside of the box. “I was not allowed to re-innovate and create. I had four options: Dubai, Bangkok, Tokyo, and London and I chose London. Not because of anything else but Heathrow Airport and the weather because I love the rainy weather, hot weather gives me a headache. I was so fortunate, I used to live on the third floor above the restaurant, from the window every evening between 4:30 to 5:00 I could see the Concorde fly by to Heathrow and I would just stand there, mesmerized by the beautiful bird landing every day, not realizing that in a matter of 10 to 11 years’ time I would become the consultant for Concorde. 2001 is when we actually got on board!”
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VINEET BHATIA
‘‘I Came To London With Nothing But Ambition And Love Of Indian Food” He left India in 1993. Arriving in London with nothing but ambition and the love for Indian food he says his humbleness helped. “My name, Vineet, means polite. That’s the culture and background of India, irrespective of how much you achieve. In the UK I went to a very well established restaurant, basically a curry house, ‘Star of India’, I was the only Indian in this Indian restaurant, the rest were all from Bangladesh. So you walk in the kitchen, you see them wearing a t-shirt and short pants while cooking and someone’s having a cigarette in their mouth while making a nan, wearing slippers, I said where the hell have I come, from a 5 star luxury hotel into a restaurant! The food was nice, not bad but if you are not really Indian. I spoke to my employers I said, ‘I don’t know what this is but this is not Indian food.’ They said ‘that is why we want you here and that is why we brought you here.’ and at that stage in 1993, that was my quite Indian movement.” He stayed at “Star of India” for five years, in those days chefs were not given a permit to stay back in the country, chefs had to complete their tenure as per the contract and visa then they were sent back. When Vineet applied for an extension, he and his lawyer got a three month extension and subsequently he tried to apply again but his lawyer said there was no way. Instead, what they did get in Vineet’s favor was how the press picked up on the story and they campaigned through the media. There were almost 2,000 signatures from people who said they wanted him to stay in the UK. He eventually received a “Right of Stay”.
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VINEET BHATIA
Mushroom Khichdi
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“Good food is about eating with your eyes closed; enjoying a meal and being amazed by what you can get… I am very fortunate because I can actually taste food with my eyes closed or by composing a menu on a piece of paper. When I put things down to the menu it may sound very dramatic and very different but they are some base dishes of flavors that work quite well and those only come with experience. You can actually close your eyes and you can taste morels or you can close your eyes and you can taste fresh mint, you get the smell, you can actually taste it and these flavor profiles are very ingrained into you as you grow and they bring back strong memories.
When we compose menus, especially a tasting menu or a dish as such it is a balance of flavors, a harmony of all your senses which come together to make a good meal. It is the sound, the smell, the touch, the temperature, the mouth feel; these are what really give you a complete blend to a dish. When you are balancing a menu it is like a musical note, there are ups and downs, peeks, and should not be the boring flat standard. All of the textures, colors, temperatures are all very vital. You can judge what flavors work well. Now we have travelled extensively within India and you can also see overseas, the pallet, how it changes, you are able to enhance a cuisine or the style of cooking to give a balance. And the key, the most important part, is seasoning.” WO’GOA December 2015 -
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VINEET BHATIA
Vegetable Tikki
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In 2001 Chef Vineet Bhatia was awarded his first Michelin star as a chef-restaurateur. In 2006 he received his second Michelin star for ‘Rasoi’ and continued on to a third Michelin star in 2009. When asked ‘what was the feeling to be the first India chef to hold three Michelin stars?’ Chef Bhatia replied, “Blank, absolutely blank, it came as a shock, out of the blue, we were not expecting one because just previous to our opening of ‘Zaika’ we went through a lot of turmoil financially, tens of thousands over due on our credit cards, it was a question of survival. We opened Zaika in partnership with investors. The whole idea was to really produce good food and payback the loans, it was never the question of the Michelin Stars or the Sunday times. I don’t endorse awards at all… I personally feel awards are not really genuine, but having won the award one thanks the people around you for what you have done. The Michelin came out of the blue, it was not something which we expected, and we came to know about it through New York Times. I got a call early in the morning around 7:30 am, asking me ‘how does it feel to get a Michelin award?’ I said, its 7:30 in the morning please stop playing games’ and I put the phone down and she calls back and says, ‘we have just seen a press release, it’s in front of me, I know you have got the star, how do you feel ???’ I said, ‘I don’t know, it’s not something which we were aiming for, it’s not something that is going to mean tons’… not having realized it is a game changer.”
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VINEET BHATIA
Vineet and Rashima
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Chef Bhatia says “having the Michelin stars, people take you a lot more seriously, especially in those days when the media and Google wasn’t as prominent, he relied on the fact that word-of-mouth gets around and once having done that, you have broken the mold, broken the bubble and you made history in some shape or form, it is satisfying but you know in the end the Mr. Smith who comes to eat, he has to go back happy”. When we got all the awards everything was fine but then we realized that the awards don’t feed the family. The accolades on the wall, the papers they don’t get you what you need, you need to grow and that is how we grew as chefs and as restaurateurs. Roles changed from being just cooks and restaurateurs to actually opening up more restaurants. After we started opening up, it is very difficult to clone or to copy, or someone else to copy you. When we opened up Rasoi twelve years back, if somebody had asked me what is your long term plan, I would’ve said there was no plan, there was not even a five month plan. I remember we going to the bank for loan and six of the biggest banks turned us down, a small piggy bank from Australia came forward to offer us money. We were supposed to meet with a guy called Harry, expecting to see an English man we walked in to seeing an Indian guy sitting there, Harry was asking questions and we are answering them, then Harry asked ‘what is your breakeven’ sinve my wife Rashima and I were together, Rashima answered “2520 odd pounds”, he said, ‘how did you get that figure’ she said, ‘that is my child’s education fees, as long as you can get that we are okay, the food will come from the restaurant, however education is more important for us.’ Harry laughed and asked ‘what more do you have?’ We only had our restaurant in Mauritius and he said, ‘which one, Safran Restaurant’ at Le Touessrok Hotel?’ Harry happened to be Mauritian and he had eaten there, ‘Oh, I have been there and I really enjoyed the food, the hotel and the restaurant.” “And that was the clinch. Harry gave us the loan but with a condition - that we have to give your house as a collateral, because we had no funds. We had to literally give the Bollywood style jewelry, we gave our house documents assigned to the bank and said the house is yours in case we go bust. So it was a risk, it was never a question of awards or critics, it was about the restaurant to do well to pay off bills and that was quite daunting and scary….Failure was not an option.”
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VINEET BHATIA
Chef Bhatia says his greatest influences in the kitchen are the people. He says he is always learning. “Food is Food, you have to open your mind, and as a young person I did not travel around India, I had not been to Kerala, never been to south India and I was making south Indian food so I learned from the cooks. That is what you learn, you learn from the homes of the people around you. I have Chinese people who are working in my kitchen and who are counter sometimes, or I have Spanish guys working in my larder section or I have a French guy who is the food runner so, you are always around people who have different ways of life, different feel of food and culture and style, you are always learning from people around you because you are listening to great, honest feedback from a team around you. They are very instantaneous to reaction, what we get around us, because we like to take pride in taking quick judgment. Most of the time it’s purely based on gut instincts of what happens around you and how you want to react.”
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His biggest ingredient inspiration is passion. “It is my passion to cook… people say, ‘what is your signature dish’ you always say ‘it is not a signature dish, it is a signature approach.’ Because how can you say this is your signature dish, over the years there are so many dishes which have come and gone, some get reinvented some move on and some still remain the same. People say oh your chocolate samosas are legendary, your Mushroom Khichdi Makhni Ice cream is legendary…yes, you know it has been done, so as a chef you pass it on and you move on. You don’t realize what you have created because it is food. It not only an art form but it a food that satisfies your soul…It needs soul, it needs to cooked with passion, if that’s missing, it’s lost. We tell our chefs ‘when you cook under our umbrella...it has to come from the heart, when you put down a plate it must smile to you, it must look like gold because what the guest is going to see, the happiness on a plate.”
Chocolate and Saffron Cheesecake
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Chef Bhatia didn’t want to write a book, it was his wife’s idea. “I am not a paper and pen guy at all” His wife and “Aunty Marge”, their 84 year old neighbor created the book. “So the recipes were all made, they were all trailed by my neighbor, god bless her soul, Aunty Marge. She is no more there, an 84 year old English lady, had no idea of Indian food so we said we give you the money- you go to the local supermarket, you buy the stuff, you cook it take a camera, take a photograph, give us the photograph and we taste the food. She was our home economist, she would actually try out all the dishes, she would create in ‘the simple taste’ means, you can’t create it like the book but just because of the flavors she is getting it right. So if she can get from the supermarket all the spices and the flavors and she can cook it at home then, so can anybody else. So the book, I actually know it works. The first line of the book says: “This is not for the novice cook”. The first fifty odd pages of the book are only building blocks and technique, then it goes into proper cooking and I made it very clear that I was not going on the front page or the last page. I don’t want to be the face of the book. It is not about me but about the food I cook.” http://vineetbhatia.com/books/ Vineet Bhatia and Restaurants by Vineet Bhatia have received about every honor imaginable. When asked, “What is it that keeps you motivated at this point in your career?” He reiterated, “The people around me. I think it is the buzz and excitement you get of the restaurant, there is constant innovating and evolving and that is what really keeps me going every day. I get up every morning and I am charged because I know something good is going to happen, it is a certain vibe you get in a restaurant. I have
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travelled extensively for work and each time the biggest buzz for me is that I get to fly very often which I enjoy doing, even after so many years and so many flights, every month I still have a buzz of going to the airport and getting into an aircraft because there is a sense of joy. It may be the childhood dream or a passion that I am fuelled with, and now with food around me all the time. I still see a good plumb piece of chicken thighs and I know something good is going to come out of it. It is like an artist when you paint something the painting comes to life and it gives a sense of joy and the same when you put something onto the plate, sometimes it is a very simple thing you really make it really inviting. It’s a satisfaction which really buzzes you every day, and you are around people who basically look up to you to learn so you pass a stage of actually being a just a cook and being a restaurateur but you are becoming in some shape or form a mentor. We have only been able to grow because we have a good team around us otherwise we would not have these twelve restaurants because it is all homegrown talent. Eventually the whole idea is to setup a culinary academy back in India where you can actually give it back to society. The whole idea is to have 20 kids for six months out which five are going to be from the street and don’t want to charge any of the kids but those five who come on board, you train them and then you are in position to employ them in restaurants, that’s the long term goal. Chef Vineet describes his cuisine as, “Very simply, evolved progressive Indian, to cook with lot of passion and care- that is a must.
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Petit Fours
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ALAIN DUCASSE - LE DALÍ,HÔTEL LE MEURICE, PARIS
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ALAIN DUCASSE and CHRISTOPHE SAINTAGNE revisit LE DALÍ
new tastes and new rhythms for Restaurant Le Dalí at Hôtel Le Meurice Photo ©PierreMonett Born, like Gaston Lenôtre, in Pont Audemer, Normandy, Christophe Saintagne learned the basics of his profession alongside Guillaume Louet, at the Auberge du Vieux Logis in Conteville. He spent his early career at the Auberge du Vieux Logis in Conteville, with Guillaume Louet. He then joined Philippe Groult at the Amphyclés restaurant in Paris, in 1998. He did his national service at the Elysée Palace in 1999 before entering Alain Ducasse’s kitchens, first at 59 Poincaré then at the Plaza Athénée. In 2002, he became Head Chef at the Parisian restaurant, “Aux Lyonnais”. Between 2005 and 2008, he assisted Jean-François Piège at the Hôtel de Crillon as Sous- Chef before returning to Alain Ducasse in 2009 as Executive Chef and later took over from Christophe Moret as Alain Ducasse’s Executive Chef at the Plaza Athénée from September 2010 to August 2013. Alain Ducasse has developed over 30 years a unique knowledge in the art of living and eating. He is at once a chef-creator and a strict entrepreneur. As creator, he insists on offering a cuisine that is just right. As entrepreneur, he implements a modern economic model, a transfer of his knowledge and a relevant vision of the food service and hospitality industry. Alain Ducasse is at the helm of 26 restaurants worldwide, 3 luxury country inns and a hotel association: Châteaux & Hôtels Collection. His vision of the profession places passion and transmission of knowledge at the forefront of his projects. This can be clearly seen throughout his activities in publishing, training both professionals and amateurs, and finally consulting. As a passionate leader, Alain Ducasse is constantly looking to share his vast cultural awareness and curiosity with the rest of the world. WO’GOA December 2015 -
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ALAIN DUCASSE - LE DALÍ,HÔTEL LE MEURICE, PARIS
Named after Salvador Dalí, who for 30 years regularly stayed at the hotel, Le Dalí is a truly distinctive restaurant that transforms itself throughout the day. After serving a refined breakfast in the morning, it becomes an open and dynamic place for lunch at midday. It turns into a refined tea salon in the afternoon and back into an elegant, intimate restaurant in the evening. It thus marks the rhythm of the hotel from its central location. But the rhythm of the capital is felt here too: hotel guests rub shoulders with the Tout-Paris of the arts, entertainment and business worlds who drop in frequently, as if to remind everyone that Le Meurice is the ultimate Parisian address. It is definitely a place for encounters and a moment to savour. Settle down beneath the keystone of the Philippe Starck’s project, involving a giant canvas painted by his daughter Ara Starck. The gold and ochre hues will transport you to a captivating world of interpretations. In this grand space where Dali’s spirit still reigns supreme, discover the many references to Dali’s work, such as a Dalinien chair with feet in the form of ladies shoes, a lamp with drawers, or Le Meurice’s recognizable lobster on a telephone. These elements all add to the mystical aura of the place and makes it totally Dalinien!
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ALAIN DUCASSE - LE DALÍ,HÔTEL LE MEURICE, PARIS
It is this dual rhythm of daily life and the city that inspired Alain Ducasse to create Le Dalí’s new menu. As the multi-starred chef likes to say: “I’m cooking for my contemporaries, observing how they live and what they like.” To set the pace, the menu is brief, but changes frequently. And to set the tone, the cuisine is decidedly French – we are, after all, in Paris. From a light Grenoble-style sole with capers and brown butter deglazed with lemon juice, to a hearty ribsteak with shallots and dauphine potatoes, all the great classics of French cuisine are here. The recipes are no less contemporary. Firstly, owing to their great simplicity both in their presentation and in the combination of tastes. Secondly, in the food itself: the flavours are always concentrated, with the jus conferring intensity whilst preserving lightness. From a black-bordered plate stamped with the restaurant’s logo, to an asymmetrical plate by Costa Verde, or an “Aux Oiseaux” Limoges plate by Bernardaud, the table decor juxtaposes artistic elegance with a touch of whimsicality – echoing the memory of the surrealist master. Add to this the small details that are the mark of true hospitality - the colour of the water glasses, for example, indicates whether a guest is drinking sparkling or still water. In this way, conversations are not interrupted by the service.
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Soupe de potiron muscade, châtaignes cassées
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Crevettes, avocat, agrumes
As a great lover of fine products, Alain Ducasse sees to it that the seasons determine the recipes. For example, after the scent of citrus and the aroma of truffles in the winter, guests are now being offered two symbolic products of spring: milk-fed lamb and green asparagus. The organic lamb, raised exclusively on ewe’s milk, produces a very tender and delicate meat, with a tight grain and a sweet, subtle flavour. It is offered as curry-spiced lamb cutlets with piquillo peppers and dried fruit. The green asparagus are served poached or as a velouté. They are cultivated by Jérôme Galis, a former chef who has returned to his rural roots. Established in Piolenc, near Orange in the Vaucluse, he has made a specialty of this Provençal delicacy. His asparagus arrive to the kitchen the day after harvest, ensuring perfect freshness and unrivalled flavour. A few forays into more distant lands are also offered to curious guests: one example is the black-pig culatello produced by Massimo Spigaroli. Made near Parma from pigs raised by traditional methods, culatello is considered by enthusiasts to be the ultimate cured ham, with a delicately sweet taste and a surprisingly tender texture.
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Cabillaud à la vapeur, petits pois et anguille fumée
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Coquillettes, jambon, truffe noire Legumes et fruits cuits et crus, toffu et jus perlé
Saint-Jacques dorées, champignon de Paris
The Cookpot is Alain Ducasse’s signature dish - beautifully shaped and innovative, the Cookpot is a revolutionary implement created by Alain Ducasse to combine a variety of ingredients, vegetables first. Seasonal vegetables, braised slowly in an individual cookpot created specifically for this recipe. All the flavours of the season are concentrated in an all-vegetable, intensely succulent dish. On the menu at Le Dalí - Cookpot of Morel, eggnog with vin jaune.
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Cookpot de morilles, lait de poule au vin jaune
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beautiful and classical contemporary French cuisine 60 - WO’GOA December 2015
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Riso de blé, calamar et légumes primeurs
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Christophe Saintagne has also contributed to the book entitled, “Nature, simple, healthy and good” which was published in October 2009, where Alain Ducasse challenges the clichéd image of French food as complicated and heavy. Here he goes back to basics and rediscovers the pleasures of simple French food based on healthy, locally sourced ingredients that are in season, without the fat and without the fuss. The book features charming line drawings and mouthwatering food photography by one of France’s most acclaimed food photographers. Sidebars and asides containing useful snippets of Ducasse’s experience and advice are peppered throughout. With over 190 simple yet sublime dishes, Ducasse highlights a wide range of flavor combinations in which vegetables, fruits, and grains take pride of place, while animal protein is used sparingly for flavor. Ducasse casts aside preconceived notions of French food to reveal its essence - seasonal produce, fresh flavors, and hearty, healthy dishes meant to be shared with friends and family.
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Bonite marinée aux agrumes, fenouil croquant
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SEBASTIAN NOHSE - JW MARRIOTT MARQUIS DUBAI
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Sebastian Nohse culinary excellence
German native Chef Sebastian Nohse, renowned for his ability to create authentic culinary experiences... A highly talented chef leads the world’s tallest hotel, the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai to the forefront of the region’s F&B industry. Joining the iconic hospitality brand, Nohse is well respected, highly passionate about team development and a vision to make the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai the number one dining destination. Sebastian leads a team of 280+ chefs, manages 22 kitchens and operates an exquisite array of world-class dining venues including Michelin star Chef, Atul Kochhar’s Rang Mahal Indian restaurant, Prime68 - a new generation of steakhouse located on the 68th floor offering a view from the top - stunning views across Dubai’s skyline. Overseeing the hotel’s tempting 24/7 bakery and café - La Farine, the authentic Thai cuisine at Tong Thai and Izakaya, a casual upbeat sushi destination. Bringing all culinary experiences to one venue at Kitchen 6 the hotels all-day dining restaurant featuring cuisines from all corners of the world, Asian woks, Middle Eastern grills, European breads and Indian Tandoors glowing through glass walls. Additionally Nohse will support the Positano team to bring the vitality of the Amalfi coast to Dubai at the hotel’s authentic Italian restaurant. The 2015 and 2013 Executive Chef of the Year received his culinary training at the Berufsschule Essen Ost Catering College in Germany. Since then he has worked in London at the Greenhouse Restaurant in Mayfair, Executive Chef at the Fontainebleau Miami Beach, Executive Sous Chef at the Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong, and Executive Chef at the Al Qasr Hotel – Madinat Jumeirah, and later went on to be the Resort Executive Chef at the Jumeirah Hotels & Resorts. WO’GOA December 2015 -
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Sebastian Nohse talks with WO’GOA about his passsion and culinary experiences... WO’GOA: It’s interesting to learn how Chef’s find their passion for cooking and where they grew up. Tell me more about your formative years and how did you find your way into the culinary field to become one of the most sought-after Chefs! Sebastian Nohse: Unlike many other chefs I unfortunately (fortunately) do not have an interesting story about growing up in the countryside on some farm or assisting my parents in their own restaurant, instead I am the middle sibling with a 2 year older and a 2 year younger sister (Ilka and Kaja), who grew up in an industrial city. My upbringing, however, is a key to the person who I have become (will elaborate in a little). Our family values always came first, my parents are devoted people and worked very hard to create the perfect environment for us. My dad being a principal in one of the largest schools in Germany taught me one thing very early and that is my attitude towards responsibility. There are only two important things in life which you are truly responsible for and that is your family and your work. Bearing in mind that family is who you are and work is only
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Aqua - JW Marriott Marquis Duabi
what you do, I do not remember a single day when my dad took a sick leave and that had and still has a big influence on my life. My parents were naturally not excited when I decided to not pursue my studies and to venture off to become a Chef (in the 90’s a chef was not a glamourous thing, on the contrary it was considered by most of the population to be a loser’s job). Anyway this is what happened: a friend of mine had left school a year before and told me how great his job as a chef was (he would work until 10 am and then his much older colleagues would take him to bars and party with him etc… that sounded great to me, being a 17-year-old), so I decided to do an internship in a small restaurant that served amazing food and this is the day my life changed. As I entered the small kitchen operated by the owner of a small hotel a 55-year-old (Old School German Chef), it was like a different world: 4 chefs battled (to the constant booming of the General’s voice) the never stopping wave of tickets coming from the dining room, the intensity of this organized chaos totally struck me. The end result was food like I had never seen or tasted before: vibrant, exact and just total perfection. So that was it - I decided then and there I would like to be the crazy general in charge of this kind of madness. By the way, it took 15 years to be a soldier on 4 continents and in 5 different countries before I could claim the seat as the general in charge of the kitchen. WO’GOA December 2015 -
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Steak - Prime68, JW Marriott Marquis Duabi
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WO’GOA: Your ability to create authentic experiences, which are full of passion, based on a unique interpretation of the Modern kitchen that goes beyond your undisputed culinary talent, the utmost attention toward ingredient selection and their transformation into highly innovative flavors, and the love for French cuisine - how do you bring this balance on the plate? Sebastian Nohse: My life and culinary experiences that I gained working with so many different nationalities have formed certain core values in me. Few things are essential for me when I work: • Always find and select great produce to start with (partner with local farmers or suppliers who have passion in what they do) • Respect the appearance, flavors and textures of natural produce. When you work with them don’t try to overpower them or make them into something they are not, but find the right method and seasonings to highlight their natural strength. • Technique is key. For me the skills I have learned from my French Cuisine training in my apprenticeship are essential, however they are a base that allows me to hold myself accountable and stay away from short-cuts (which in this day and age are the slow death of our profession). It is important to stay current - so learning new (old) techniques like molecular cooking is also important, however for me the application is often abused by people who have forgotten that the essential is to cook amazing tasting food (instead of some kind of bubble of unrecognizable liquid that pops in your mouth). So the slogan here is simple: “every technique is good but ensure that it serves the bigger purpose of highlighting the flavor of the entire dish” • Presentation needs to be vibrant and exciting, modern or traditional, or a blend of both - stay true to the produce and the taste, ensuring that the presentation is only the final touch to the dish and not the most important thing. • Share knowledge, build a team that respects and understands the points above, use their ethnic backgrounds and experiences to be inspired for new creations. You will only be successful if you have the loyalty and shared values from the guys who work with you every day. WO’GOA December 2015 -
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You never stop learning and the fun of exploring the unknown, combined with the endless possibilities of applications is extremely exciting... Sebastian Nohse
WO’GOA: Tell us your experience working with Paul Merritt at the Greenhouse Restaurant in Mayfair - how did that experience help to form who you are as a chef today? Sebastian Nohse: Paul is probably the most driven individual I have ever worked with, his sense of perfection when it comes to food is second to none. I remember joining Paul’s Kitchen as his number two at the Michelin starred Restaurant: 17 chefs per shift for 80 cover service, we started at 7am and we left after the stove was scrubbed spotless at night around 1am. The environment is very intense and it takes a long time to become part of a team like this, especially if you are meant to be their boss. So I found myself being tested on my mental and physical ability every day, as all the other chefs tried their best to stitch-up the new guy. So I worked the sauce section battling every day to learn the standards and the food at a level of perfection I had never experienced before. Paul was a ruthless teacher (but one of the two that gave me an edge): the day I mastered the sauce section and had the first perfect service in 6 weeks, he put me on the fish section… 4 months later I had worked all the stations, even the pastry station. The learning was so intense that some nights I had no time to go home so I crashed in the potato room or the office, however, finally I was one of the team and resumed the job I was actually hired for - his number two position. This changed me forever and I realized if you don’t give up - success will follow eventually…… WO’GOA: How would you describe your cuisine? Sebastian Nohse: I thrive in taking classic dishes from all kinds of countries, studying their heritage and the philosophy behind them and then reinventing these dishes and making them relevant to the 21st century. The trick here is not to lose the authenticity, but to make the dishes interesting for your audience. Working in a hotel with 14 F&B outlets and the resources I have in regards to talented chefs from different cultures, this is really the relevant task at hand when you direct the team and learn from them.
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WO’GOA: In your opinion, what is the best recipe you have ever created? What inspired this recipe and why? Sebastian Nohse: Pressed confit tomato terrine, goat cheese sorbet, slow cooked tomato and white balsamic vinegar syrup. When I was working in London I had the opportunity to do a course in Anton Mosimann’s Culinary Academy. We were 25 chefs and he gave us a bunch of tomatoes and mozzarella, and challenged us to come up with a dish only using these two items. Being a rather young chef whose mind was not yet fully open to thinking outside the box, I came up with a rather
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Flambe Tart - La Farine, JW Marriott Marquis Duabi
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lame tomato and mozzarella tower‌ shocking, to this day I cannot remember a more embarrassing moment in my professional career, the reason is that I was one of the 20 chefs from the 25 who had done the same thing. Mr. Mosimann however had created an amazing looking layered terrine of the same two items, again a life lesson because it taught me to look at every angle, every option. It is not about being first to come up with something but is about being the best once you are finished. Failure is not something to be afraid of but something to embrace as only through failure you become better. WO’GOA December 2015 -
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WO’GOA: Could you share the process you go through to create a new dish? Sebastian Nohse: The formula for the creation of a dish is always the same. • First: Flavor. • Second: Texture. • Third: Visual Appearance. • Fourth: Ensure that number two and number three are highlighting and not contradicting number one. • Five: If it does not turn out right, start again. Don’t try to fix things endlessly, instead reset your canvas and start fresh. WO’GOA: What new ingredient or ingredients are inspiring you right now and how do you select your ingredients? Sebastian Nohse: I am obsessed with anything that is grown in its original state, like Heirloom tomatoes, Peruvian potatoes etc., many people these days think vegetables should all be uniform. When we started out a partnership with a local organic producer here in Dubai I experienced a funny story: for many years I had known Beck from Ripe and I used to purchase her vegetables for home from a local market, so for some years we worked together to establish an opportunity for me to purchase amazing stuff for the hotel. Finally we received the first order and my receiving chef had sent the organic cucumbers and tomatoes back as the cucumbers looked all different and were too small and the tomatoes tasted different than normal. The tomatoes were absolutely perfect, as they were harvested at peak ripeness the day before and actually tasted of tomato (not like the imported stuff that gets plugged off the fields unripe and then gets shipped around the world). So I realized I had a long way to go in regards to training the team to understand produce.
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WO’GOA: What are your favorite ingredients you like to work with? Sebastian Nohse: I love tomatoes in all colors and forms, the different textures, the sweetness and acidity levels open an endless choice of options. WO’GOA: Is there an ingredient that you weren’t able to master and have given up on and why? Sebastian Nohse: I have preferred ingredients and some that I don’t like working with too much. It would be arrogant to say I have mastered any ingredient that there is, however, it is in any chef’s nature to explore any new items that you can get your hands on. You never stop learning and the fun of exploring the unknown, combined with the endless possibilities of applications is extremely exciting. So give up on anything? No, never! WO’GOA: Do you have any special cooking techniques or equipment you particular enjoy using? Sebastian Nohse: I love sous-vide cooking for single muscle meats with no connective tissue, or slow roasting and braising. Again, I prefer classical techniques with modern presentation, a thermomix, a pacojet and a vacuum machine are essential in all of my kitchens. WO’GOA: Produce, Creativity or Technique, what is more important to you and why? Sebastian Nohse: Nothing outweighs the other, it is a careful balance of all that make a great dish. The important thing for me when I am creative, is that I brainstorm without borders, then I put things in order and select the right produce and technique to create the best possible tasting dish.
TempuraMori - Izakaya, JW Marriott Marquis Duabi
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WO’GOA: What is your guilty pleasure food? Sebastian Nohse: The Perfect Burger: soft bun (lightly toasted), juicy meat patty, crispy bacon (caramelized with black pepper and honey), a spicy BBQ sauce, and a vintage (sharp cheddar)… WO’GOA: What is it that keeps you motivated at this point in your career? Sebastian Nohse: I stay true to what is important to me, so firstly everything I commit to I love full heartedly. My two kids (Zoey and Jax) and my wife (Candice) are my motivators every day. Secondly the team and the opportunity to create great experiences for guests and motivate, talented chefs that take pride in our profession. WO’GOA: Being a chef is perceived as a glamorous profession, what advice could you give to chefs who are first entering the field today? Sebastian Nohse: If it is glamour you are looking for become an actor or a singer, a chef’s job is one of the most demanding (physically and mentally) ways of earning your living, it is a way of life that changes everything. You will embrace and work on every holiday, birthday and weekend, you need to be able to love working in three days the amount of hours normal people work in a whole week, and you need to love to be under immense pressure, to work fast and to deliver perfection. Stress is your best friend as it gives you energy and power you need to plow through the day. You need to commit at least 15 years of your life to train your skills, once you have done that and still love what you do, you do not look for glamour anymore… Instead, you look for the madness of exciting service, for the camaraderie of your team, you will enjoy being pushed to the breaking point and knowing that nothing can stop you… And if glamour then comes eventually, you don’t really care for it anymore, but rather spend it sharing it with your team as you have realized it is not about you, but about the people you spend most of your time with.
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KENTARO TORII - BELLA COSA, LONDON
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Kentaro Torii
unique Japanese touch to Italian cuisine Born in Yokohama, the capital city of Kanagawa prefecture, Kentaro Torii first developed a passion for Italian cuisine at the age of 17, and recalls that the first dish he cooked for himself and his family was carbonara. “I learnt it on my own from a cookery book.” Torii attended culinary school and worked in a Japanese-Italian fusion restaurant. Impassioned by Italian culture and food, he left for Florence at the age of 20 to learn the language and everything he could about the country. He then moved to the city of Pavia, in Lombardy, famous for its risottos. Thereafter, he took his skills to southern Italy, Sardinia, and joined a celebrity-owned restaurant and learnt from Italian chefs, the abundance of fresh seafood, transforming them into modern and exquisite dishes. Armed with much knowledge, Torii moved back to Asia, and managed an Italian fine dining restaurant with leading an international team at the Mariana Resort and Spa Hotel, in the Micronesian volcanic island of Saipan (Mariana Islands archipelago) before arriving to Singapore where he would spend the 6 years making a name for himself at Tavolo, and going on to spread his wings with managing his own kitchen at Ochre and later with Forlino. Celebrated Chef Kentaro Torii is classically trained in the art of Italian dining, with all the attention to details you would expect from a top Japanese Chef. Although his roots are in Japan, Kentaro’s heart is in Italy. He combines his depth of experience working and traveling through Italy’s regions with a passion for highlighting combinations of flavour, aroma and his unique Japanese touch to bring his dishes alive - a belief that every dish served to his guests is a work of art. WO’GOA December 2015 -
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The hottest new addition to London’s Italian restaurant scene, Bella Cosa, brings the soul-warming food of Italy to the South Quay of Canary Wharf. A versatile restaurant with a strong Italian character, Bella Cosa has one of the most exciting new talents in Italian cuisine at the kitchen’s helm. Executive Chef Kentaro Torii, renowned by critics in the US and Italy for his Japanese approach to Italian food, is serving his signature contemporary Italian dishes with Japanese flair and presentation for the first time in the UK. Kentaro’s culinary style combines generations of Italian traditions with modern techniques, as well as Japanese rigor and precision, working alongside a purely Italian kitchen brigade, serving modern classical signature dishes such as - Seasonal Risottos; Grilled Octopus, Smoked Potato Puree, Trapani Pesto, Olives, Celery Salad; 5 Cheese Ravioli, Saffron Sauce, Beetroot Puree, Suckling Pig Cheek, Autumn Truffle; and Black Cod in Prosciutto, Baby Cuttlefish in Black Ink, Polenta. Specializing in dishes based on fresh seasonal produce of outstanding quality, with significant PDO (Protected Denomination of Origin) ingredients imported from Italy. The dishes, no matter how complex the
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preparation may be, are presented in a neat, unfussy, yet original and modern way. The overall aim is to surprise the customer with both simple beauty and the amazing taste of the dish. On the ground floor, the seating is spread around a central bar and Chef’s Isle constructed of glass, marble and stainless steel, with ‘front row’ seats to watch skilled chefs at work preparing fish, seafood, antipasti, Italian Salumi meats and cheeses. The upper floor provides casual finedining from the à la carte menu. Stylish oxblood red chairs are gathered around white linen covered dining tables, and the contemporary theme is continued in the chic decor using luxurious materials. An Artisan Beer Corner provides a warm convivial area for guests to enjoy a wide selection of Italian craft beers. Communal scrubbed wooden tables give a rustic and relaxed feel. Designed by Italian interior designer Francesco Pizza, the chic interior is spread over two floors including a glass-fronted mezzanine area. WO’GOA catches up with Kentaro Torii - the Italian speaking Japanese chef who surprises diners expecting to see an Italian chef behind their dinner… WO’GOA December 2015 -
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‘Truffle’ Chocolate Mousse, Pistachio Brûlée, Amaretto Jelly, Caramel Sauce
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WO’GOA: It’s interesting to learn how Chef’s find their passion for cooking and where they grew up. Tell me more about your formative years and how did you find your way into the culinary field to became one of the most soughtafter Chefs! Kentaro Torii: My mother was fond of cooking and she cooked for us different kinds of cuisines, I grew up with her cooking and it interested me in the food firstly. When I was 16, my grandmother passed away, my grandfather was badly depressed and he had no appetite for a couple of month. At this age, I began to get interested in cooking myself so I tried to cook a dish of curry-rice (which is quite popular in Japanese family cooking) and it made him simply smile that we had not seen for long. It was the very first time I found the power of the food that brings happiness and joyful to the people, and I still can’t find any better job than chef. I’m proud of being a chef. WO’GOA: Taking you back when you moved to the city of Pavia, in Lombardy which is famous for its risottos and later moving to Sardinia learning from the best Italian chefs how did that experience help to form who you are as a chef today? Kentaro Torii: Italy is composed of 20 regions and all the regions have their own culture and cuisine. So it is important for the Italian chefs to study and understand the landscape, the food culture and the regional traditional foods. In Lombardy, I was taught the northern Italian cuisine, which does not use typical Italian ingredients such as tomato, olive oil, garlic, not even pasta, in fact there was only one pasta dish on the menu at the one Michelin star restaurant I worked for, against 6 types of risotto which were on the menu always. Making 5 and 6 risottos at the same time is not easy at all but it was great experience. In Sardinia, I was taught the importance of taking a balance between creativity and tradition because a style of my chef was so. It simply opened eyes of a 22 years old green boy and gave me a right direction and guidance to create my own cuisine. I spent some time in Veneto, Toscana, Sicily as well. I’m still studying regional food every single day and it will never ends. WO’GOA December 2015 -
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WO’GOA: You infuse your culinary creations with seasonal ingredients, a twist of your culinary techniques adding a combination of flavours, aroma and textures, with an impeccably balance and bring your dishes alive - how do you bring this balance on the plate? Kentaro Torii: I first take a balance of the four basic tastes - sweetness, saltiness, bitterness and sourness. And after that, I always see how I can add the 5th taste – the ‘umami’ flavour to each dish. Umami is the keyword in my cuisine, not because I’m Japanese. There is not so many people recognizes but many facts of umami are found in Italian cuisine such as tomatoes, cheese, anchovy, charcuteries, etc and these are key in Italian cuisine as well, this similarity is perhaps making me appreciate both Italian and Japanese cuisine and I believe umami gives a sensation and satisfaction to our pallet. WO’GOA: You bring a unique Japanese touch to a contemporary Italian fine dining cuisine - take us through this journey and the inspiration of Italian cuisine? Kentaro Torii: It is just natural for me to bring Japanese touch to all my dishes since I’m pure Japanese. I grew up in Japan till I was 20, grew around Japanese culture, nature and food, this made my individuality. On the other hand, I specialized in Italian cuisine for more than 13 years and my knowledge and skill are based on it. Therefore these two facts, Japanese and Italian are making me what I am today. I always believe that the cuisine is created and influenced with personality composed by many elements, where we were bone, where we grew up, what we ate, what we saw, where we travelled, who we love, all the experience I have got though my life are composing my personality and reflecting to my cuisine.
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Pumpkin Risotto, Foie Gras, Licorice Powder
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Black Cod in Parma Prosciutto, Baby Cuttlefish in Black Ink, White Polenta, Courgette Flower
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WO’GOA: In 2012 you were awarded GVCI Chef of the Year and 2014 as Nominee Best Chef – Award of Excellence, what was the feeling to be a Japanese chef wining Italian awards? Kentaro Torii: This award opened a new door in my career. Since I received this award, I have been given several opportunities to participate in wonderful events with GVCI, a group of Italian chefs who work outside of Italy. In 2014, I was a part of a Charity Dinner which was held at
Torre del Saracino, Festa a Vico with 15 Michelin Starred Italian Chef, it was amazing for me as these chefs I could either see them on magazine or the television. This year I participated at the Italian Cuisine Summit in Dubai, I was a part of 25 Michelin Starred Italian Chef - United Italian Chefs Group for the wonderful gala dinner held at JW Marriot Marquis, Dubai. It was an honour that many great Italian chefs recognize me as a Japanese Italian chef and my aim now is to showcase a new style of my cuisine to them. WO’GOA December 2015 -
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‘Autumn Garden’ Beetroot Confit, Foie Gras Pate, Cocoa Nibs, Forest Nuts, Balsamic Reduction
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WO’GOA: How would you describe your cuisine? Kentaro Torii: ‘Modern Classic’ - I respect classic recipes, traditional way of combination between the ingredients. WO’GOA: What are your greatest influences in the kitchen? Kentaro Torii: Beautiful seasonal ingredients, before I relocated to London, I spent almost 6 years in Singapore. I love Singapore very much and I believe it is one of the best countries to live, however I had always been craving for four seasons! Now I am based in London, enjoy the four seasons which offers beautiful seasonal ingredients, this makes me excited and motivated all the time. WO’GOA: In your opinion, what is the best recipe you have ever created? What inspired this recipe and why? Kentaro Torii: Recently I created a dish which I called ‘autumn garden’, the inspiration of beautiful fallen leaves on one autumn morning in London. The dish depicts a beautiful autumn scenery and of course taste is brilliant and well balanced. You find a great combination between the sweetness of beetroots and richness of foie gras.
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Double Cooked San Daniele Pork Belly, Sausage Fagottino, Wild Mushroom, Pork Jus
WO’GOA: Could you share the process you go through to create a new dish? Kentaro Torii: My approach is categorized into three ways. Firstly, I create the dish from one produce which inspires me. For example, one of my signature dishes ‘double cooked San Daniele pork belly’. Beautiful sweet Friulian pork is the main actor and what I needed was to select supporting roles that can bring up the pork belly flavour to its best.
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‘Mont- Blanc in Snow’ Chestnut, Chocolate, Hazelnut, Meringue
Secondly, using classic and traditional recipes, I reconstruct and express it in the modern way, for example, cod in prosciutto, baby cuttlefish in black ink, white polenta. A hint of creating this dish was from classic Venetian dish ‘Seppie in Nero con Polenta’ Cuttlefish in Ink and served with polenta. Using this idea to accompany the cod fillet and it completes another signature dish. Thirdly, I set a ‘theme’ and express it with the dish, the theme could be any inspiration such as a scenery or painting or a person or region. For example ‘Mont Blanc in the Snow’ it is a deconstruction of the French Pastry Mont Blanc. I thought of making a dessert with the theme of cold winter and an idea of snow on the mountain. WO’GOA December 2015 -
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Selection of Italian Charcuteries, Stracchino Espuma, Pickled Vegetables
WO’GOA: What new ingredient or ingredients are inspiring you right now and how do you select your ingredients? Kentaro Torii: Game - in the UK, there are many types of game meat delivered to the restaurant and currently working on new dishes with Pigeon, Wild Boar and Venison. The best way to select the new ingredients is to walk around the market, it simply lets you feel the season. WO’GOA: What are your favorite ingredients you like to work with? Kentaro Torii: Fresh seafood for the starter and meat for the main course. Seafood must be fresh. I was born and grew up in a town called Odawara, Kanagawa prefecture, which was located near the sea, I had a plenty of fresh Japanese seafood. People know that seafood in Japan is the best in the world, you can imagine how fresh it is. I rather avoid to eat nor cook if the fish is not fresh as my standard.
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‘Homage to Vittore Carpaccio’
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WO’GOA: Is there an ingredient that you weren’t able to master and have given up on and why? Kentaro Torii: Hot chilli peppers, I am not a big fan of spicy food although I like the Asian food. I think spiciness of chilli covers all other flavours so I do not often use it. WO’GOA: Do you have any special cooking techniques or equipment you particular enjoy using? Kentaro Torii: It is not new and it has been used since when I started cooking 15 years ago, but I like sous vide technique. I think storing and cooking the food under pressure is one of the best innovations in the culinary history and it will last eternally. On the other hand, I appreciate Japanese cuisine techniques - how to approach each ingredient, especially fish. It is always delicate and reasonable and gives the best results. WO’GOA: Produce, Creativity or Technique, what is more important to you and why? Kentaro Torii: It is difficult to choose one but creativity is the most important to me as a chef. Using low quality produce can be covered with technique and creativity, and you may be able to find a staff who has the technique. However, creativity is something you can’t get easily and without creativity, it is boring to work in the kitchen all day long!
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Roasted Turkey, Pumpkin Puree, Black Truffle, Wild Pepper
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WO’GOA: What is your guilty pleasure food? Kentaro Torii: Pork Fat - I like fatty pork such as pork belly, pancetta, guanciale and especially Italian lardo, I can’t stop eating if I’m given a beautiful piece of Colonnata lardo, bread and a bottle or nice red wine well I am happy! WO’GOA: What is it that keeps you motivated at this point in your career? Kentaro Torii: My aim is to achieve a Michelin star. There are opinions that argue an unnecessariness of Michelin guide over the past few years but I do not agree with it. It still has the biggest influence to the culinary world and Michelin Star is a kind of passport, it would give me an opportunity to travel around world. WO’GOA: Being a chef is perceived as a glamorous profession, what advice could you give to chefs who are first entering the field today? Kentaro Torii: The most important thing you need to learn in the kitchen is the importance of cleanness. Good food is never prepared in a dirty kitchen. You will have a long and winding road to becoming a great chef. In fact, I’m in that process too… Do not lose your passion for cooking as passion will take you to places which you dream about. Pina Colada in Dessert
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9 COURSE MEAL WITH FUNKY GOURMET - ATHENS
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Photo Ioanna Paggalia
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FUNKY GOURMET Georgianna Chiliadaki and Nikos Roussos are the two chefs and co-owners of Funky Gourmet, along with Argyro Chiliadaki, the restaurant manager. The three of them have been partners from the initial stage of envisioning and formulating their particular restaurant concept to the actual establishment and management of Funky Gourmet. Their backgrounds prior to becoming involved in the restaurant business are interestingly very different. Georgianna first studied European Relations at the University of Reading in the UK. After completing her degree there, her passion for cooking drove her to New York and the Institute of Culinary Education in Manhattan from which she received a diploma in Culinary Arts and Restaurant Management in 2002. At the same school, she met her partner Nikos who, prior to cooking, had studied business administration in Athens. When Georgianna and Nikos graduated from the school in 2003, they worked in various restaurants in Greece and abroad (Spain, Holland and in the US), the highlight of which was Georgianna’s stage at El Bulli under world-renowned Chef Ferran Adria. In November 2009, the two Chefs, along with Argyro who had studied art conservation and had established a career in this area, opened Funky Gourmet restaurant right in the heart of Athens in the lively, multi-faceted district of Keramikos. This is where the chefs rethink their culinary Greek tradition creating an avant-garde cuisine that is both innovative and playful, a cuisine that aims to activate the senses and to fully engage the guests in an exciting and unconventional way. In other words, this is where they create a culinary experience that is both funky and gourmet. In carefully designed degustation menus and inspired by local products and seasonality, the chefs introduce their own concept of a refined Greek cuisine. Funky Gourmet restaurant has had admittedly a very fast and interesting spurt despite Greece’s economic crisis. After having received wide acclaim by food critics in Greece as well as many local awards as one of the top restaurants in the country, it has gained an international reputation in a most spectacular way. In 2012, just after two years of operation, it was awarded its first Michelin star. For 3 consecutive years (2013-2015) it has also been ranked among the Best Restaurants in the World and Europe, according to ‘Traveler’s Choice Awards’ of Tripadvisor. In 2014 came the restaurant’s second Michelin star and a special reference to Funky Gourmet at the Michelin Guide press conference in Stockholm, where it was stated that the food at Funky Gourmet “has immeasurable thought, creativity and taste that matches its playfulness”. Most recently, Funky Gourmet was selected by 50 Best Words Restaurants among the 6 Hottest Restaurants of Europe 2016 and presented in Identita Golose Restaurant Guide 2016.
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First Course Salsify in the Soil
Salsify in the Soil is the first welcome course in the current degustation menu of Funky Gourmet. Salsify is a unique root vegetable with an interesting combination of flavors. While its elegant and sweet taste may be its defining characteristics, at the same time one can also discern a light and subtle oyster flavor. These traits inspired the Chefs to pair salsify with the local ‘tarama’, a cured cod roe, whose poignant flavor balances well with the more subtle sea flavors of the salsify. Salsifies are first cleaned thoroughly since they are covered in soil, then peeled and fried in long strips. The ‘tarama’ is
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Photo Panagiotis Beltzinitis
mixed into a cream using homemade rye bread and extra virgin olive oil. To complete the preparation, they make the croutons out of homemade carob bread, which is then ground down to resemble soil. This ‘soil’ is used to dust the surface of the prepared tarama cream in which the salsify strips are then anchored, resembling roots growing out of the soil. The appearance and flavors of the dish send dual messages: while the visual representation is that of roots in the soil, the respective flavor-pairing message is that of fish and chips. WO’GOA December 2015 -
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Second Course Gr eek Bottarga t art l et w ith whi te c h o c o l at e
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This is another welcome course to Funky Gourmet’s current degustation menu. Greek Bottarga is a very unique local delicacy, which is a kind of Greek caviar. It is the cured roe made from the fish Bafa (mullet). It has a rather intense and bitter flavor and is an acquired taste. They use the Bottarga in a challenging and provocative combination with white chocolate and butter. The Bottarga is placed on a piece of crispy bread, spread with a thin layer of butter. White chocolate is tempered into a very thin layer and then broken into irregular pieces that atop the Bottarga. The richness of the white chocolate and the bitterness of the fish roe create a refined and very pleasing flavor equilibrium. This combination is accentuated by a few drops of lemon and lime zest that infuse the plate with additional aromas.
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This is a signature dish that the chefs developed back in 2009 when the restaurant had just opened. It is the last amuse-bouche in Funky Gourmet’s big degustation menu. Everything is cleared off the table and a small picnic basket with a mini-picnic tablecloth arrives, one for each guest. The service staff announces that it’s picnic time in the center of Athens. Each guest is then asked to lay out in front of them their personal mini tablecloth on which the staff then places an array of small delectable morsels. These include two ‘baguettes’ which are actually olive bread crostinis paired with a very light and airy garlic mayo, also a most succulent meatball made from prime American short-rib and a BLT sandwich where bacon is replaced by a ham consommé in the form of a sliver of jelly. However, a picnic is not picnic without nuts. That’s why we take raw cashews, fry them and salt them and then encase them in an edible bag made of potato starch. There is no need to unwrap them, you just eat them as a whole. Last but not least, there is also a soft-boiled quail egg, paired with a purple potato chip, that the guest is instructed to softly spray with sherry vinegar before enjoying it. Fond memories in a playful eating experience.
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Third Course PICNIC
Photo Panagiotis Beltzinitis
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Fourth Course
Greek Salad
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A signature dish that is always present in Funky Gourmet’s degustation menus. The well-known Greek salad is the most emblematic dish of the Greek cuisine. A simple dish, where tomatoes, cucumbers, olives, feta cheese are combined and then drizzled with extra virgin olive oil. At Funky Gourmet this salad is re-conceptualized and presented in the form of white granite. All the ingredients are mixed together and then distilled. The resulting product is first frozen for a precise amount of time and then spinned in the Pacojet creating a texture of white snow. Although your eyes see powdery snow, the flavor and aromas are distinctly those of the traditional salad. You smell and taste fresh tomatoes but you fail to see even a speck of red in our dish. The oxymoron is reinforced by a miniature shovel in lieu of a fork. This is a game between our senses. You see a white granite but we taste a Greek salad. A very intriguing plate.
Photo Panagiotis Beltzinitis
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Fifth Course Silence of the lamb Part One The main meat course in Funky Gourmet’s current degustation menu is lamb, the most favored meat in Greece. As the name denotes, lamb comes in two servings and in two parts. Part One, is lamb brains (from where the title of the plate is inspired) and Part Two is a lamb chop.
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Part One The lamb brains are first pinched and then placed in ice water overnight, so that they are cleared of any blood. They are then cooked sous-vide. The cooking process finishes in the pan with a lemon and oregano sauce. To complete this serving, a separate velvety sauce of cooked brains and mascarpone is also prepared in the thermomix. This is a very rich and tasty dish with a bold flavor profile and interesting textures. WO’GOA November December 2015 -
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Fifth Course Silence of the lamb Part Two
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Part Two The lamb chop arrives next in an interesting play of contrasts. As the tradition in Greece is to forego cutlery when lamb chops are served - just eat them by hand, we invite our guests to do the same at Funky Gourmet. Whole racks of lambs are first frenched, then marinated for two days in herbed olive oil and then cooked sousvide. At the time of service, they are finished on top of the grill to acquire a smoky flavor and the lamb chop is then presented on a heated stone that sits on a bed of rosemary. As the guests enjoy the lamb chop, they are enveloped by the aromas of the rosemary evoked by the heated stone. An engagement of all the senses.
Photo Panagiotis Beltzinitis
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Sixth Course
The Feta Cheese that wished to be a Beetroot This is the cheese-course in Funky Gourmet’s current menu. They use very high quality feta from a local artisanal cheese maker. He produces a very soft, barrel-matured feta with a pungent and bold taste. As Feta cheese is made of goats milk it pairs very well with beets. Hence, to prepare this dish, the chef places feta cheese in hemispherical molds and freeze it. Beetroots are then passed through the juicer, sherry vinegar is added for taste and then gelatin is added. This beetroot jelly is then used to encase the frozen feta cheese molds. Before serving, it is thawed in the refrigerator and then served at room temperature. The chef finishes the plate with a powder including extra virgin olive oil aromatized with rosemary, oregano and some walnuts. The plate is served with a piece of sourdough bread, a rustic combination, yet elegant and powerful.
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Seventh Course Milk Skin Bracelet
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This is one of the desserts in on the menu. It is inspired by the classic ‘baklava’ in which a mixture of walnuts and honey is layered between sheets of phyllo dough and drizzled with syrup. At Funky Gourmet, they have replaced the phyllo dough with milk skin. They simmer fresh whole cow’s milk until a skin forms at the surface. Then discard it and wait until another skin is formed, and then pick it up very carefully and lay it out on a silpad. It is covered with a walnut mixture and then folded into long thin strips, meeting both ends in the shape of a bracelet that is then dip into a bronze edible pastry powder. The bracelet is served inside a jewel box paired with a homemade liqueur made of milk, honey and a special aged cognac, Delamain.
Photo Panagiotis Beltzinitis
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Photo Ioanna Paggalia
The idea behind the creation of this plate was to create a classic chocolate dessert but add some excitement to it and re-invigorate it. So, mixed together is bitter and milk chocolate, milk flavored with honey is added, vanilla and kirsch for a thinner texture and the mixture is placed in a spherical molds in the freezer. The chef then prepares a bitter chocolate cocoa butter mixture in which the frozen chocolate spheres is dipped. Before serving, supplementary flavors like a raspberry pate-de fruit for acidity, hazelnut nougat, cinnamon crumble are added, a 100% cocoa biscuit and a hazelnut praline. The dessert is presented in the form of a ball, which the guest breaks with their spoon to release all the ingredients and enjoy the rich combination of exciting tastes and textures.
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Eight Course Chocolate Soup
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Ninth Course Chocolate, bacon and caramel
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This plate demonstrates how the savory taste of bacon can be incorporated in a dessert alongside the traditional dessert ingredients of chocolate and caramel, to achieve an unexpected and flavorsome combination. The chef takes cured bacon, freezes it and then slices it into very thin strips to form bacon chips. A salted syrup is prepared in which the bacon strips are boiled for a few minutes. The bacon strips are then placed in the dehydrator for several hours until they become crispy. The dessert is completed with a bitter chocolate ganache and a soft caramel cream. The final product, arranged and presented on an actual bone, brings to the palette a surprising explosion of contrasting flavors.
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SAMUEL LINDER - THE PENINSULA NEW YORK
Samuel Linder
culinary innovator at The Peninsula New York
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SAMUEL LINDER - THE PENINSULA NEW YORK
The Peninsula New York is thrilled to introduce Samuel Linder, the hotel’s new Executive Chef. Chef Linder joins The Peninsula New York from The Peninsula Manila and will oversee all food and beverage outlets within the hotel, including Clement, Gotham Lounge, Salon de Ning, banqueting functions as well as the property’s 24-hour in-room dining. A leader in the culinary world, Chef Linder brings with him extensive experience from his most recent positions as Chef de Cuisine and Executive Sous Chef for The Peninsula Manila, where he oversaw the
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Tasting of Scallops
kitchen operations with over 100 employees and successfully implemented a wellness food program with pure vegan cuisine in five dining outlets throughout the hotel. He also played an integral role in the reopening of the Old Manila restaurant. Before joining The Peninsula Manila, Chef Linder served as the Sous Chef of the famed Aubergine Restaurant, an upscale restaurant. Prior to his time in Manila, he worked with Burj Al Arab in Dubai at the award-winning Al Mahara restaurant, developing avantgarde recipes and award-winning menus for the fine-dining restaurant, while managing the Saucier and Entremetier stations. WO’GOA December 2015 -
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SAMUEL LINDER - THE PENINSULA NEW YORK
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Taste of Fall
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Born in Schwanden by Brienz, a small village in the heart of Switzerland, Chef Linder has been recognized by the National Food Showdown, a nationwide cook-off taking place in the Philippines each year, having coached The Peninsula Manila’s culinary team with seven entries to win the overall Complete Chefs Award. Through these experiences, Chef Linder plans to bring a global approach to his cooking at The Peninsula New York, while utilizing locally-sourced seasonal ingredients and the flavors of the Northeast. As the hotel’s new Executive Chef, Chef Linder and his team will develop and introduce innovative menus across all dining outlets, inclusive of dishes tailored towards guests’ special requirements and dietary needs. He will also personally oversee the revamp of Naturally Peninsula, a range of options available offering a choice of freshly prepared dishes that combined locally and sustainably sourced ingredients. Linder found his passion in to the culinary world because of food, “It’s all about the ingredient, the history behind, the importance of food in each culture around the globe” Linder has always been amazed of the fact that food can give so much joy and anger (if not good or not enough) and taking away someone’s breath if mind blowing. It can surprise you and bore you, all depending on how much of a talent in terms of creativity and organization a chef possesses. The best statement of any chef is on a plate.
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MARCELLO MEREU - RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE DUBAI
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Marcello Mereu a journey from West to East Text Oilda Barreto
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MARCELLO MEREU - RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE DUBAI
Marcello Mereu has certainly been inspired by a wide variety of international approaches to cooking, but he embraced what had always been his passion, cooking Mediterranean seafood and the traditional cuisine of Tuscany. Chef Marcello continued with his refinement of international cuisines from 2007 to 2009 while he worked in the restaurant ‘G’, owned by celebrated Japanese classical pianist Yukio Yokoyama. Mr. Yokoyama was a great connoisseur of foods and wine, and with his mentoring, Chef Marcello learned more about the freshness of Japanese ingredients and expanded on his Japanese culinary skills. When he moved on to the Altomond restaurant in Aoyama in the metropolis of Tokyo, as executive chef, that was where he gained expertise in managing a high volume operation as well as an extensive staff. They also served his specialty…their menu was based on fish, prepared with fresh seasonal products and inspired by the cuisine of Sardinia with an innovative Mediterranean touch.
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Sautéed Red snapper (Amadai) with panzanella sauce broccoli and basil pesto
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Foie gras terrine in crust of almond mixed fruits raspberry reduction
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But after eight years in Tokyo, Chef Marcello was ready for change. There was an opportunity in 2011 to work in Dubai; he had to look after his family a wife and two kids. “I was motivated because a chef needs to keep moving. If you are lucky you can stay at the same place for twenty years being loyal to the company for certain period, I felt like that was right time and moment to move and have another experience I was 33 years old when I moved to Dubai.. In terms of creativity Dubai is a city that still needs time, maybe after 10- 15 years it can be compared with a city like New York or London. I have never been to New York but heard it is quite big for food, even Paris, Milan and Tokyo. When he moved to Dubai, his first job was with the Shangri-La Hotel as Chef de Cuisine at the Amwaj Restaurant where he created Mediterranean food. Then it was on to being Executive Chef at Meydan Beach in JBR Walk, Dubai’s lively waterfront promenade and currently the Consultant Chef at Ruth’s Chris Steak House, Dubai. In this role he oversees three restaurant outlets including Sur Mer restaurant, the Infinity Pool Bar, and the Azure Blue Chill Out. Within each restaurant he has produced different cuisine concepts with Signature dishes for each of the spectacular Meydan Beach regions. Indeed Chef Marcello Mereu does like to keep in touch with the taste of food. He was recently asked to join the 2015 Italian Cuisine & Wines World Summit in Dubai. WO’GOA December 2015 -
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It’s interesting to learn how Marcello found his passion for cooking and where he grew up... “Well I was around eleven to twelve years old and I really liked to eat but I didn’t know what I want to do with my life… My cousin was going to hospitality school, I said why not, let’s try, I was still in junior high school with two years to go but I said let’s try…When I finished my junior school I said, okay I start the school, it started to be interesting, and when I was fourteen I started to work at a restaurant on the weekends just to help. I come from a small town called Elmas, it is next Cagliari, the main city of Sardinia and we have some restaurants in Vienna they said, okay let him work, and that the person is a friend of my family also, so then I started to work on the weekends and also during summer because Sardinia is like a tourist place, especially in the summer. This person Efisio Mameli was before a supplier of Parma ham and other products and he knew many restaurants and had connections around Sardinia so I started working more. Slowly, it became more interesting and the passion also comes from my mother because she also loves to cook specially on Sunday with family. For us Sunday lunch was the key because everyone was at the table at 1:30 eating at the same time and my mother starts cooking, and not sitting down just bringing in food. Of course relatives come or we go to a relatives’ house to eat. But for us Sunday lunch was like a ceremony and from there is where the passion came from and it also came from a lake called ‘Laguna de Santa Gilla’, about 30 meters from my house were the neighborhood would go fishing. They’d go in the night for fishing and come back in the morning, they go to the market and what they didn’t sell they gave it to the neighborhood. I used to have for meals fresh sea food like sea bass, eel, clams, mussels, this all used to come from the lake which was fresh, you used to feel fresh and then the passion grew more and more, this was the build up to how, so as to say, the first step to becoming a chef.”
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Sautéed veal fillet with spinach soufflé veal juice sauce
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Chef Marcello in the kitchen… When asked what his best recipe is, he replied, “I cannot say which one is the best because for me all the recipes are important. It is the factor that when the manager comes in the kitchen and says be careful this is a VIP person I say for me, everyone is VIP.” He says that the best recipe is each one he creates, as each one has a history behind. However he does elaborate that he recently created a dish for a master class in Florence for the Forum, Ventresca di tonno (tuna belly), “First of all it is marinated with Colatura di alici and lightly smoked and then I add dried fish roe bottarga and an apple infusion with dill and I put on truffle honey and foam of dill and some herbs. Another one is an apricot and prawns custard with white tomato gelatin ravioli, celery pickle, clams, and extra virgin olive oil powder. It is somewhat harder which we launched at the Academy of Bottarga, and this is one of the recipes which come from Sardinia, we know as Bottarga (fish roe), a classic way to eat Bottarga is with celery and tomato, we also have spaghetti with clamps and Bottarga. What is created basically is break raw fish and give it freshness and give it the touch of tomato, give it the Bottarga for the spice, plus celery combined with clamps, this is the history of this place. As you see I use a lot of Bottarga in my dishes I cannot say which one is best but it is one of the best.”
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Marcello tells us about his experience at ‘Santini’ in London,’ Cheval Blanc’ in Switzerland, his move to Salvatore Ferragamo’s restaurant in Tokyo, and then later working with Andrea Brambilla at ‘Bice’... “Basically I moved to London in 1998, the first job was at Santini - I believe it is one of the oldest Italian restaurants celebrating 30 years in London. They are very traditional… they believe in what they are doing, they believe in what they serve, this is most important part of Santini. At Santini restaurant and Cheval Blanc I was the sous chef. I was young, 23 years old, when Luca Casadio asked me to go to Switzerland. I said why not? Basically I went to London, got some experience; I came back to Sardinia to work in Sottovento and Sopravento. A little bit about Porto Cervo - so there are two restaurants in the club, one is Sottovento and other Sopravento, Luca was working in Sottovento, I was working in Sopravento but, I was always going to him. He said do want to go to Switzerland, I said why not, and the chef in Switzerland was Marco who was one of the chefs under Luca Casadio; a lot influence from Luca Casadio but he also has his own style. I started learning to experience ‘the touch’ of [knowing] food… to know about the truffles, there are so many things I didn’t know, different regions of Italy have different foods, if someone comes from a different part of Italy you learn about their cuisine, this allowed my experience to grow. Before I went to the East I was still in Europe and I worked again with Luca Casadio, he sent me to Monte Carlo where I worked with Chef Loris Navone. A young team with a lot of energy in the kitchen, this helped us to create new dishes, however there was 30-40 percent of the cuisine which created especially for regular guests. With all this experience, the East was calling and went to work at Altomont Restaurant and went on to work at Bice in Tokyo. The chef was Andrea Brambilla and i continued to work with him for three years and Bice was awarded its first Michelin Star in 2007. Experience with cuisines from Sardinia and Tuscany, I needed to have my own identity with food, with a lot of knowledge about food from Sardinia, I used this as a base. I took classic recipes and transformed them to a morden style for a fine dining restaurant. I started to present traditional Sardinian food in a different way locking the taste and flavors in to this modern twist.
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Sautéed seabass, sea asparagus with pumpkin sauce dried fish roe bottarga
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When asked what new ingredient or ingredients are inspiring right now and how are they selected he replied that fresh ingredients are the best ones, chopping and using fresh, seasonal products, especially vegetables and fruits. Although an experienced world-renowned chef, he does have his favorite ingredients to work with… “I like to use a lot of porcini mushrooms, I like white asparagus, and I like Bottarga because it’s the traditional Sardinian food and that is why it is my favorite ingredient.” Although fish roe may be a favorite ingredient, his favorite fish is something different, eels. “I like to use eel. I believe that based on my background, the Japanese, they use the same ingredients but cooked in a different ways. Even the eel and the Bottarga they do in different ways. I have been eating eel since I was four years old, the last time I went to Sardinia I said to my mom I want to eat eel. That is my favorite. His least favorite ingredient? Mayonnaise. He says, “It’s just like if a chef does not want to eat something, they prefer to avoid it, for example I don’t like mayonnaise, I will never use it in my kitchen well, I try to avoid it as much as I can.” The chef shares some special cooking techniques… “I like
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Gianduia chocolate mousse with berry sauce
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smoked and slow cooking temperature now, it has become a habit to use a particular technique or machine in the kitchen. Technique for me is also how you take the flesh from the fish because of my Japanese background. I really enjoy cleaning fish and the technique which they us; the spine of the fish is cut and they put a piece of wood to take out the blood, the blood is one of the factors that spoil the fish. That for me is technique, the machine makes the chef life easy but for me, technique is how to do it, how to maintain the product intact, how to bring the freshness on the plate. When asked about a chef’s life being glamorous he replied, “It is not an easy job. In 1998 I didn’t spend much time with my family and kids back in Sardinia and that is what I sacrificed in my life. I have my daughter’s birthday but I am working. There is no time for dinner too, that is life. If someone wants to be a chef he should realize it is hard to be a chef but of course, with passion, everybody can reach a certain level.” To sum it all up, on his website chef Mereu states: “The art of cooking takes passion and dedication. The same passion carried on through a life long journey from the West to the East and ultimately represented in the sublime fusion of colors and flavors of my dishes.”
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DUBAI’S NUMBER ONE DINING DESTINATION - JW MARRIOTT MARQUIS DUBAI
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Foie Gras
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P RI ME 6 8
Located high on the 68th floor, Prime68 presents a new generation of steakhouse, where supreme quality ingredients are served in elegant style. Panoramic views and a breathtaking urban skyline make Prime68 an experience to remember, evoking the glamour of times gone by with elegant art deco interior. Prime68’s premium suppliers have been carefully selected for their artisan produce, cultivated with passion and consideration for the environment. Featuring the finest heritage breed beef from farms around the globe, Prime68 is true boutique steakhouse – tailored to perfection. WO’GOA December 2015 -
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VAULT
Enjoy the panoramic views of sunset and the start of another vibrant night, Vault is pleased to double the reasons to stay and enjoy the exciting food and beverages. Located high on the 71st and 72nd floor of the hotel, allowing panoramic vistas of Dubai. The world class design of Vault, its fine selection of renowned cigar brands, and the expertly edited array of premium beverages will cater for the need of the elite.
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Chorizo Croquette
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AQUA
Aqua is a fun and ambient outdoor venue located on the pool-deck of the world’s tallest hotel. Aqua is a perfect destination to enjoy refreshing drinks, light bites and various flavours of shisha. WO’GOA December 2015 -
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GARDEN
Indulge in Peruvian flavors in a vibrant and inviting space with weathered wood tables, greenery, dimmed lights and mouthwatering food to share. Garden aims to spoil with authentic Peruvian dishes, currently the hottest trend among foodies, served effortlessly and in a caring manner. The friendly restaurant environment invites guests to socialize, unwind and experience a Peruvian sharing concept.
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Peruvian Scallops
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Miso Cod
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IZAKAYA
Upbeat, casual and slightly edgy, Izakaya is the new Japanese destination in Dubai. Izakaya is cool, an exciting place to share great food and beverage in a social environment with friends. Social Sushi at its best.
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RANG MAHAL
Discover the sensational New India, courtesy of Michelin starred chef Atul Kochhar, presenting an exciting menu of modern Indian cuisine in a vibrant Palace of Colour – Rang Mahal. Appealing to all epicureans from fine dining connoisseurs to lovers of traditional Indian food, Rang Mahal by Atul Kochhar fuses a touch of tradition with contemporary flair; creating a feast for the senses and inspiring your mind. Founder and head chef of London’s famous Benares restaurant. Achieving his first Michelin star in 2001, Atul is also an international celebrity chef, TV star and author of three bestselling cookbooks. Firmly established in the Dubai fine dining scene, Atul brings the pulsing vibrancy of New India to life in Rang Mahal with modern Indian cuisine. Navratan – The 9 Jewels of India. Rang Mahal presents the Navratan Menu. Navratan is the Hindi word for Nine Jewels and includes nine signature dishes, the Navaratnas of Rang Mahal.
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DUBAI’S NUMBER ONE DINING DESTINATION - JW MARRIOTT MARQUIS DUBAI
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Purple Dumplings
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TONG THAI
Discover Thailand’s culinary heritage captured in one evening full of flavour. With chefs cooking favourites from four regions, Tong Thai serves food so good it shouldn’t be eaten alone. Enjoy unparalleled Thai service and a menu that showcases unique regional dishes, celebrating street food as well as authentic classics loved around the world. Simply Thai cuisine in an exquisite setting, lovingly prepared and served by an authentic Thai team. Sunset Special at the Lounge - Unwind and end the day with the sunset specials at the Tong Thai Lounge. Experience the renowned Thai hospitality and enjoy an array of authentic snacks and bespoke beverages with a Thai twist in a stunning setting. WO’GOA December 2015 -
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POSITANO
The passion and vitality of the Amalfi coast have come to Dubai. Experience authentic Italian coastal cuisine at the Italian restaurant Positano at JW Marriott Marquis Dubai. The Amalfi Coast region is famed for its fresh seafood and handmade pasta prepared in an authentic Italian style. Sample an extravaganza of specialties of the Amalfi region, overflowing with antipasti, handmade pasta à la minute and a dessert room filled to the brim with all Italian classics and the biggest Tiramisu in Dubai.
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DUBAI’S NUMBER ONE DINING DESTINATION - JW MARRIOTT MARQUIS DUBAI
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LA FARINE
Freshly baked bread, crafted barista coffee and a selection of authentic French cuisine, served 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. La Farine is a contemporary café and bakery where guests can gather, socialise and enjoy gourmet fare in a casual and comfortable setting. Serving ‘the best baguettes in Dubai’, La Farine also features a delectable selection of homemade pastries, a range of boutique French products and beautiful bespoke cakes crafted by the cake artist. La Farine now offers the perfect weekend breakfast for both the early birds as well as the late risers. La Farine’s Baker›s Breakfast brings you a selection of crusty breads, viennoiserie, cold cuts, fresh fruits and your favourite savory breakfast item, served with a glass of freshly squeezed juice of choice. Waking up difficult for you? Coffee is included! Gather, socialise and enjoy your lazy weekend mornings in a casual and comfortable setting at La Farine Café & Bakery. WO’GOA December 2015 -
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SKD ACADEMY - PHILIPPINES
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SKD ACADEMY
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Transforming today’s students into tomorrow’s industry leaders... Founded in 2007, SKD Academy is one of the leading trade school offering programs in international internship, hospitality management, culinary arts, entrepreneurship and post graduate in association with Lincoln University College. Rated as one of the best culinary arts and trade schools in the Philippines - SKD Academy continues to redefine and reshape the education landscape by bringing fresh perspectives to the whole paradigm of learning. They coach their students into realizing their fullest potential transforming them from industry hopefuls into tomorrow’s most admired industry leaders. With a commitment to their students breaks all barriers in conventional thinking and conformity. Dedication to their students’ success, shapes and drives them to be one of the most enviable players in the industry. With their proud traditions of teaching, research and innovation, SKD Academy has expanded from two TESDA (Technical Education and Skills Development Authority) accredited programs to more than thirty traditional and innovative programs in culinary arts, hospitality, trade arts, entrepreneurship and post graduate. SKD Academy’s programs are developed in close consultation with the employers, the industry practitioners and international professional bodies to ensure that the students are provided with knowledge and skills that are compatible with the current industry standards and needs. A wide selection of programs that suits all and every unique needs of the students. All programs are designed based on international – industry job descriptions and are fully loaded with individual exercises, internships and varieties of academic activities designed to put theoretical learning into actual applications. Culinary arts education is a serious matter - students are taught and coached by industry active experts and experienced chefs. A faculty composed of seasoned and highly respected industry players who made significant contributions to the local and international industry. With current campuses in Quezon City, Meycauayan Bulacan, Gapan City Nueva Ecija, Batangas City, La Trinidad Cordillera, San Fernando Pampanga, Lipa Batangas and Binan Laguna in the Philippines. SKD Academy will be opening 6 new campuses in the Visayas Region and 2 overseas campuses by 2016. By year 10 in 2017, plans to operate 20 campuses with a combined population of 8,000 students enrolled in various programs ranging from certificate to associate degree to bachelor’s degree to post graduate. WO’GOA December 2015 -
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PAUL LAU PING LUI - THE RITZ-CARLTON, HONG KONG
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Paul Lau Ping Lui driven by passion
Michelin-starred Chef Paul Lau Ping Lui is highly regarded as one of the top Cantonese chefs in Hong Kong. He is an expert in Chinese culinary arts with over 36 years of experience in Beijing, Shanghai, Hong Kong and Guangzhou, as well as in Dubai and the UK. Lau has previously worked for leading hotel chains including The Peninsula Beijing; The Peninsula Hong Kong; The Garden Hotel, Guangzhou and The Dubai International Hotel before joining The Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong. “I am thrilled to be joining The Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong. It is amazing working in a place where you can feel the sense of belonging of the team. Everyone is dedicated in crafting a distinctive and exceptional dining experience for the guests.” Originally from Guangzhou – one of the key coastal cities in China – Lau, says his family moved to Hong Kong when he was fourteen. He had the opportunity to work in the kitchen of a Cantonese restaurant at that time, and it was from then on that he became passionate about cooking. “Being a chef is not a job. It’s all about passion. Passion keeps you motivated to maximize your talent and to create the best food for your diners.”
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Steamed crab claw with egg white and hua diao wine
Lau has won several Best of the Best Culinary Awards organized by the Hong Kong Tourism Board since 2001. “I have the drive and passion, I am determined to overcome all obstacles to become successful,” Lau says. With his appointment to Tin Lung Heen, Lau combines traditional and contemporary skills to create his unique style. “I always keep abreast of the emerging trends and development in Cantonese Cuisine. I can draw inspiration from anything around me.” Lau says. “For example, when I pass by a flower market, I will visualize how those beautiful and attractive flowers can be presented in my upcoming dishes.” Located on Level 102 of The Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong, Tin Lung Heen presents authentic Cantonese cuisine, the best in town. It is a popular venue for Hong Kong’s traditional dim sum complemented with a premium tea variety. “My cooking philosophy is simple. The presentation can be innovative, but you always have to respect the traditional cooking methods and techniques. Ultimately, what I want to see are the smiling faces of the diners and I have to ensure every diner is able to taste and enjoy the food to its fullest” says Chef Paul Lau.
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Barbecued Iberian Pork
Sauteed lobster with Long Jing tea and fresh lily bulb
Lau’s signature dishes include “Barbecued Iberian Pork with Honey”, “Double-boiled Chicken Soup with Fish Maw in Baby Coconut”, “Steamed Crab Claw with Egg White and Hua Diao Wine”and “Sautéed Wagyu Beef and Asparagus with X.O. Sauce”.
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Double-boiled chicken soup with fish maw in baby coconut
The Michelin Guide Hong Kong & Macau 2015 awarded Tin Lung Heen at The Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong two Michelin stars, this is the third year in a row for Tin Lung Heen to be awarded with two Michelin stars, one of the eight Chinese restaurants in Hong Kong to receive this prestigious honour. Riding on the success of previous years, Tin Lung Heen reaped its fifth fork and spoon, for its ultimate luxury experience delivered by Chef Paul Lau and his team.
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THOMAS SAMPL - VLET, HAMBURG
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Thomas Sampl
North German Cuisine in an innovative new style Thomas Sampl, the executive chef and culinary director at the VLET. The East Westphalian chef runs the sole gourmet restaurant in Hamburg’s historic warehouse district since 2009. His philosophy is based upon the traditional Hamburg cuisine which he steadily pursues. He searched for long forgotten recipe books in attics and flea markets in order to create new menus with ancient allusions. Furthermore he collaborates with over one hundred regional suppliers to find the best ingredients and hidden treasures of taste. With creativity and passion Thomas Sampl has made the VLET to one of the best restaurants presenting modern Hamburg cuisine. For that the VLET received 15 points for the fourth time in a row from the gourmet guide “Gault Millau”. Furthermore the VLET has excellent ratings in the following German gourmet guides: Gusto, Schlemmer Atlas, Feinschmecker, Michelin and Großer Restaurant Guide by Bertelsmann. Diners will not only find Thomas Sampl’s passion for excellent cuisine on their plates, but also in the products of the VLET’s own exclusive food collection which Sampl invented together with regional manufactories. And since he keeps having ideas, Thomas Sampl wrote a cookbook and is seen in TV presenting his particular passion - Hamburg cuisine. As a member of the initiative “Slow Food” Thomas Sampl supports also the preservation of almost forgotten fruits and vegetables. WO’GOA December 2015 -
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THOMAS SAMPL - VLET, HAMBURG
Situated between the historical warehouse district “Speicherstadt” and the newly completed “HafenCity” is the gourmet restaurant VLET, a place where tradition meets modern spirit. This unique fusion is not only represented by VLET’s position in the heart of Hamburg, but also by the interior design and the outstanding food concepts of culinary director Thomas Sampl. The restaurant is full of highlights - the internally illuminated bar is made out of green glass and the green accents are in perfect match with the open steel beam, the curved ceiling and the red bricks typical for the area. Guests enjoy Northern German cuisine interpreted in a modern way, which Gault Millau – the renowned restaurant guide – awards with 15 points. The Restaurant VLET has local suppliers, which provide the restaurant with regional products like meat from their own Galloway herds and long forgotten vegetables. Thomas Sampl brings the varieties of vegetables such as apples, turnips and potatoes back to present and makes a meal at VLET an exceptional experience you will never forget.
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Bloddy Mary
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Warding Evil
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THOMAS SAMPL - VLET, HAMBURG
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Tradition meets modern style… a unique combination both on the plate and in the design! The only gourmet restaurant in the historic warehouse district… Thomas started his career at Gerhard Völlm in the four-star Parkhotel in Gütersloh. Then he worked in exclusive establishments such as the renowned Hilton Hotel Düsseldorf and the five-star Westin Bellevue in Dresden. Before joining restaurant VLET, he was employed at the Apples restaurant in the Park Hyatt Hamburg. Beyond cooking Thomas Sampl is involved in social projects in Hamburg since many years. Together with the charity foundation “Stiftung Kinderjahre” he invented a charity cooking event called “Smutjes for Jungs un Deerns” which takes place several times during the year. Different executive chefs come together to cook with children for this good cause. The children also go on excursions to different farms to the “Alte Land” near Hamburg – the largest contiguous fruitgrowing area in northern Europe.
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GREATER CHINA CLUB - HONG KONG
Winter Solstice Banquets
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Exquisite Cantonese and Royal Thai Cuisine is showcased with new seasonal specialties and Winter Solstice banquet menus at Hong Kong’s newest and glamourous rendezvous Greater China Club, as the refined social salon for dining, art and music lovers celebrates its first autumn/winter season. While delectable Royal Thai dishes are also offered with refinement, culinary techniques, presentation and the selection of ingredients to offer a real taste of the cuisine. Distinctively novel culinary experiences reflect the enticing marriage of contemporary and traditional Chinese cuisine, led by Executive Chef Chan Wai-Teng and Dim Sum Culinary Consultant, Chef Cheung Chi-Shing, formerly of Michelin-starred “Eight” in Macau. Celebrating the Winter Solstice in style are two banquet menus served on 22nd December. A truly lavish 12-course banquet featuring the land and ocean’s finest seasonal ingredients are designed to be shared amongst family and friends to celebrate family unity and prosperity. This exuberant feast begins with the auspicious Roast Suckling Pig and warming Snake Soup, and continues with a rich, warm celebration of finest seasonal produce, from Braised Whole Abalone with Goose Web and Wok-fried Prawn Balls to Baked Pork Fillet, Lamb Hotpot and Deep-fried Chicken. Completing the hearty banquet are Poached Seasonal Vegetables with Spanish Ham in Rice Soup, Fried Rice with Scallops, Crab Roe and Crispy Garlic, Wok-fried Vermicelli with Shark’s Fin, Conpoy and Egg, and desserts of Sweetened Almond Cream with Egg White and Chilled Hawthorn Pudding Cake.
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Autumn game specialties, warming stews and hearty hot pots twinned with traditional Chinese medicinal herbs that protect from the cold are highlights of seasonal delicacies new on the a la carte menu until the end of January. Keeping the cold at bay are Snake soup, Mutton Hot Pot, and Chicken, Mushrooms & Black Truffle Hot Pot with Rice. Seasonal winter
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warmers also include ‘Creative Scottish Stew’ with Formosan Reeve’s Muntjac, Baked quail, Double Boiled Shell Turtle with Chinese Herbs, Traditional Baked Shell Turtle with Black Mushrooms, Giant Mottled Eel & Roasted Pig Clay Pot, Double-boiled Giant Mottled Eel with Chinese Herbs and Chinese Preserved Meat & Crab Roe with Glutinous Rice. WO’GOA December 2015 -
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The alternative 14-course Winter Solstice dinner banquet is designed to be enjoyed amongst family and friends. It commences with appetisers of Barbecue Prime Iberico Pork, Green Bamboo Shoots Marinated with Sesame Oil, Yunnan Ham with Rose Honey, Fresh Chinese Yam with Preserved Plum Sauce, Double-boiled Sliced Chicken Soup with Matsutake Mushrooms and Bamboo Pith, and Wok-fried Prawn Balls on
Eggplant. Main courses are Wok-fried Grouper Fillet with Honey Bean in XO Sauce, Wok-fried Beef Tenderloin with Vegetables and Deep-fried Crispy Chicken. Completing the scrumptious feast are Braised Seasonal Vegetables with “Yunnan” Ham; Fried Rice with Barbecued Pork, Shrimps, Ham and Conpoy; Braised Vermicelli with Mined Grouper and Preserved Vegetables; and desserts of Sweet Ginger Tea & Glutinous Dumplings and Layered Pandanus Pudding with Coconut Milk. WO’GOA December 2015 -
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GREATER CHINA CLUB - HONG KONG
Newly opened Greater China Club is elite salon-style rendezvous transporting guests back in time to the glamorous ‘roaring’ 1920s with Art Deco-inspired design – plus a rustic China twist. The chic new ‘urban retreat’ is an exuberant reincarnation of the Gatsby era atop D2 Place (named after its MTR exit at Lai Chi Kok). This one-of-a-kind leisure experience features an elegant main dining hall with seven semi-private rooms, club-style lounge and rooftop terrace for events, cocktails, BBQs and cigars under the stars. Classic jazz of the fun-filled time in a ‘speakeasy’ styled after a 1920s American nightclub underlines the club’s stylish credentials as a “quintessential rendezvous for those who appreciate the finer things in life”. An art gallery exhibits a seasonally-changing showcase of original, carefully curated art pieces, introducing outstanding and inspiring works by both local and international emerging artists, talented individuals and groups – with various art forms from oil paintings and watercolours to photographs, sculptures and installations. The inaugural exhibition reflecting Hong Kong-Chinese culture is themed “Hong Kong Through the World’s Creative Eyes” including sculptures and paintings by renowned Taiwanese artist Ju Ming. “Our new winter menus are the first celebrating specialties of the seasons, which are a signature of our culinary concept at this vibrant new dining, art and jazz destination atop D2 Place,” adds Mr. Eric Ting, Founder and CEO of Greater China Club.
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RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE DUBAI
RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE
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Ruth’s Chris finest custom-aged Mid-Western beef, its broiled exactly the way you like it at 1800˚F/1000˚C to lock in the cornfed flavor. The steak sizzling on a 500˚F/ 260˚C plate so that it stays hot throughout your meal. WO’GOA December 2015 -
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RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE DUBAI
Ruth Fertel
Born as Ruth Udstad, Ruth Fertel grew up to be one of the food world’s top business leaders with her famous Ruth’s Chris Steak House chain. This Louisiana native was the daughter of an insurance salesman and a school teacher. A bright child, completed her college degree at the age of 19 and earning a bachelor’s degree in chemistry from Louisiana State University. After graduating, Ruth taught at the John McNeese Junior College, marrying Rodney Fertel and devoting herself to raising her sons. After her divorce with Rodney in 1958, Ruth soon returned to the workforce, finding a job as a lab technician at Tulane Medical School, but she wondered how she was going to pay for her sons’ college educations on her salary. Reading the classifieds in the local newspapers “steak house for sale”, Ruth was determined and wanted to take on the challenge of running a restaurant, despite having no prior experience in business, she knew becoming a restaurateur wasn’t going to be easy. Her brother and even her best friend not in favour, and with no bank willing to give her a business loan, Ruth was fired up with proving them wrong and mortgaged her only major asset ‘her home’ and bought Chris’ Steak House on New Orleans’ Broad Street for 18,000 dollars in 1965. She borrowed 22,000 dollars from the bank and used 4,000 dollars as working capital.
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The tongue twister name – Ruth admits in an interview to hating the name yet in hindsight it’s a pretty good story. The name Chris Steak House was legally tied to the property and as Chris Matulich owner of Chris Steak House had a habit of selling the property, waiting for the new owners to fail and buying it back. With no experience as a restaurateur, Ruth taught herself by doing every job in the business from taking orders to cooking to mixing drinks to handling food suppliers. She even butchered her own steaks, cutting short loins that weighed 30 to 40 pounds, always keeping an eye on the quality of the food she served. Ruth spent much time working tirelessly that she would often have to steal naps in the restaurant. For her, failure was not an option although others thought differently. “The restaurant staff was expecting me to fail . . . especially since I was a woman,” she once said. “Actually I never had a doubt that I would make it.” Four months after Ruth opened her restaurant Hurricane Betsy hit New Orleans, knocking out the electricity, she knew that her entire inventory of meat would be spoilt, so she cooked up all of her steaks using gas ovens, and distributed meals to first responders. Once she was able to reopen her restaurant, Miss Ruth as she was called, saw her kindness repaid - “We did pretty good business and built a lot of loyal customers” after the hurricane, she told Nation’s Restaurant News.
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Ruth faced further trouble, one night after closing, she was shot in the shoulder by a robber who unsuccessfully tried to steal her purse. Instead of leaving the neighborhood, Ruth bought herself a shotgun and hired an off-duty police officer for security. Later in 1976, a fire destroyed her original restaurant, but it didn’t affect her positive outlook. After the fire, she reopened in another spot with more tables just a few blocks from her original location. As Ruth did not have the legal rights to expand or move Chris’ Steak House so she added her name to the restaurant, creating the unforgettable “Ruth’s Chris”. Around this time in 1976, Ruth started to franchise her successful business concept and over the years built her company into an international enterprise by increasing the number of both corporate and franchised locations. According to Restaurant Business, Fertel once said “I think I’m proudest of making my franchisees wealthy. My greatest pleasure is watching each new restaurant grow - it’s like making oak trees out of acorns.” She continued to grow over the next two decades with new locations and franchises around the world in such spots as New York City and Hong Kong. She was selected as Louisiana’s Restauranteur of the Year in 1984. Ruth remained an active force in the business, even after selling a majority stake in the business to Madison Dearborn Partners in 1999.
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Ruth’s Chris Steak House – Dubai opened its first restaurant at the H Hotel (formerly The Monarch) in 2009. May 2012, Ruth’s Chris Steak House’s second restaurant at The Address Dubai Marina. Offering unsurpassed levels of service as the World Class Ruth’s Chris culinary standards. With regular events over the week, in addition to the dining experience, Ruth’s Chris, Marina Address location is a unique lifestyle destination. Antonio Lagrutta, General Manager of Ruth’s Chris, Dubai, a highly motivated and proactive with great organizational skills. A strong believer in the quality of an overall guest experience from the moment they walk through the door to the moment they leave. Personal touches and quality ingredients for food and cocktails paired with an efficient service are his passions. Antonio began his career working as Bar assistant when he was 16 years old, it was then he discovered his true passion for customer service, and creating memorable experiences for guests. After moving to restaurant service, his desire for knowledge brought him to work for the legendary Italian chef - Fulvio Pierangelini, Executive Chef of (RFH) Rocco Forte Hotels, This experience taught Antonio the art of matching ingredients as well being a strong work discipline. Broadening his knowledge to foreign languages, Antonio moved to London where he started to strengthen his already capable mixologist skills, attending competitions, seminars and travelling the world to discover new cultures and ingredients. At the time Antonio was seen mixing classic and contemporary drinks at the famous Donovan Bar @ Rocco Forte Hotel London. His motto was “Mix it well and do not forget the smile”. In 2009, The New Rocco Forte Masterpiece opened in Sicily and Antonio was called to create the operating manuals and set up the Bars. After a successful opening
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in Sicily, Antonio moved to Dubai to work with Shangri-La Hotels and the Meydan Beach Hotel until ultimately being promoted to the General Manager at Ruth’s Chris. Ruth’s Chris, specializes in signature cuts of the top 2% hand selected mid-western USDA Prime Beef. What sets the taste of Ruth’s Chris from any other Steak House is that the steaks are cooked in the Ruth’s Chris trademark Montague broilers at 1,800 degree topped with fresh butter and a little parsley on a 500 degree plate, so they sizzle all the way to your table. In addition to filets, ribeye’s, New York strip, and T-bone steaks, Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse has a range of specialties dishes that are equally as enticing as their steaks, from salads, seafood and delectable desserts, all complemented by an award-winning wine list and handcrafted cocktails.
Antonio Lagrutta
Ruth had a recipe for everything, from her signature sizzling steaks to how to treat her guests, with no compromise on quality ingredients and attention to detail – this timeless formula is a testament to how one neighborhood eatery has become the largest collection of upscale steak house in the world with more than 140 locations worldwide. Ruth’s Chris Steak House remains true to its heritage. This year Ruth’s Chris Steak House celebrated its 50th anniversary, honoring the legacy of Ruth Fertel, a true entrepreneur. Leveraging her family’s recipes and an unrelenting can-do attitude, Ruth carved her way into a man’s world and became known as the Empress of Steaks. Whenever someone would ask her how the food tasted so good, she’d reply, “Just follow the recipe.” Ruth’s true recipe was tenacity, working smart, and trusting her intuition. A self-taught woman in the world of business, learned to butcher steaks, was shot, survived a hurricane, and became an international success and creating the world’s largest collection of upscale local steakhouses.
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YOSHIHARU KAJI - THE PENINSULA HONG KONG
Yoshiharu Kaji the face at Felix The Japanese-born, Yoshiharu Kaji joined The Peninsula Hotels in 2007, starting his career as Sous Chef at The Peninsula Tokyo’s Peter restaurant. Within three short years, his skills and talents were recognised and Chef Kaji was promoted to Felix Chef at The Peninsula Hong Kong. He is now ready to bring a delectable new wave of cuisine to Felix, tantalising diners’ taste buds with his innovative “Modern European” menus. Chef Kaji’s culinary philosophy is simple and absolute: “I am overwhelmed when I feel the joy of guests or hear such comments as ‘oishi’, which means ‘delicious’ in Japanese.” On returning to Japan after his internships, Chef Kaji learned classic French cooking techniques at the Nikko Hotel, Tokyo. He also honed his skills in various premier restaurants, including the most classic and historic French restaurant in Tokyo, L’ecrin, the oneMichelin-star restaurant Le 6eme Sens and The French Kitchen at Grand Hyatt Tokyo.
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YOSHIHARU KAJI - THE PENINSULA HONG KONG
Set in the most prominent location, Felix boasts Hong Kong’s spectacular skyline and pushes culinary boundaries under the helm of Chef Modern European cuisine made with the freshest seasonal ingredients, Felix is located on the 28th floor of The Peninsula tower. It is the creation of the renowned avant-garde designer Philippe Starck. The thoughtprovoking and eccentric work of Philippe Starck is evident from the tableware, which includes signature pieces such as the designer’s iconic cheese grater and corkscrew, to Felix’s chairs which double as a Hall of Fame of Peninsula heroes – featuring the faces of long-serving employees who have provided up to 56 years of loyal service at the hotel. Under Chef Kaji’s guidance, Felix now serves a modern European menu that offers guests the chance to savor fresh seasonal ingredients from Europe, the USA and Asia-Pacific. Chef Kaji’s style is clean and colorful, with taste and health taking equal precedence. His cuisine center’s on tasting the whole dish and allowing the components to blend in the mouth for true gastronomic pleasure. Chef Kaji’s interest in and fondness for food
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developed in his home town of Ehime, which is located on the coast and where, needless to say, seafood is plentiful and one of the best local delicacies. He also reminisces about childhood memories of picking strawberries on his grandparents’ farm to make homemade jam, an experience that he considers makes him well qualified to intuitively pick only the freshest ingredients. Chef Kaji adds “I bring with me the attentiveness of the West and the Japanese perseverance to seek perfection” Felix stretches the imagination and masterfully combines a range of diverse environments within one restaurant. Two cylinder-shaped areas (known as “snails”) have been created in zinc and aluminium around spiral staircases. Each definitive unique areas - The Balcony and The Wine Bar which has been designed as a small pre-dinner gathering place, and The American Bar and The Crazy Box.
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Grilled Red Tuna, Braised Bell Pepper and Tomato, Caramelised Pineapple, Soy Vinaigrette
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JUN TANAKA - THE NINTH, LONDON
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Photo Palida Boonyarungsrit
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JUN TANAKA THE NINTH Celebrated chef Jun Tanaka is set to shake up Charlotte Street with the opening of his first restaurant in November 2015. Located in the heart of Fitzrovia, The Ninth – aptly named as it’s the ninth restaurant he has worked in during his career as a chef – is Jun’s first solo venture. Spread over two floors, The Ninth will offer neighbourhood dining at its finest, marrying a simple yet refined French-Mediterranean sharing menu with an approachable vibe and casual friendly service. Open for lunch and dinner Monday to Saturday, The Ninth’s a la carte menu is divided into eight sections – of snacks, hot starters, salads, raw & cured, meat, fish, vegetables and desserts – and shines light on the best seasonal produce, while pickled, brined and cured specialties anchor the offering. Combining fine-dining techniques with exceptional ingredients that have been chosen with seasonality in mind, Jun’s dishes are layered but distinctly light, and served in a thoughtful yet fuss-free manner, allowing the flavours to truly shine. With over 20 years’ experience working in London’s top restaurants – including several Michelin starred institutions – Jun has spent a decade under the tutelage of Michel Roux Jnr, Marco Pierre White and Eric Chavot. Most recently, Jun was Executive Chef at Pearl Restaurant in Holborn, where he gained three AA Rosettes. Together with his partner Mark Jankel, Jun created the sustainable mobile Street Kitchen brand, which launched its fourth – and first permanent – site earlier this year in Broadgate Circle. He is a regular on cookerybased television shows, both in the UK and US, and the author of the Simple to Sensational cookbook. WO’GOA December 2015 -
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JUN TANAKA - THE NINTH, LONDON
Vegetables
Photo Steve Lee
Mackerel
Snacks and hot starters include Barbajuans (a snack from the east coast of southern France, originally from Monaco, it is a mixture of flour, water, egg and olive oil – almost like filo pastry. Traditionally stuffed with Swiss chard, pine nuts and feta, they’re super crispy on the outside, with bursts of flavour in the middle), oxtail croquettes, veal tortellini with gremolata and bone marrow, and rabbit lasagne with smoked bacon. Vegetables are more star-billing than supporting act, with options of smoked aubergine caviar with pickled red onion, Jerusalem artichokes à la barigoule and toasted Fregola and butternut squash risotto with pumpkin seeds. Razor clam ceviche, pickled mussels with smoked paprika and cured veal tongue make up some of the raw and cured plates. A unique dish for winter will be the salt beef cheeks - normally salt beef is made with brisket, so this is similar but with a better cut. When this was conceived, Jun was aiming for freshness. Beef cheeks tend to be served in a heavy, rich sauce, at The Ninth it will be served with a light consommé instead, as well as brining the meat for five days to bring out the flavour.
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The cheeks are also poached in chicken stock - they become incredibly soft and pink and most importantly, not as heavy as usual. Finally, it’s served with the consommé, charred cabbage and bone marrow. Jun is pretty sure you won’t find a dish like it elsewhere. Other signature dishes include lamb en croute with truffles and whole seabream with anchovy dressing. The dessert menu focuses on classics like pain perdu with honeycomb, tarte tatin with rosemary ice cream and freshly baked Madeleines. Consisting of approximately 25 red and 25 white, plus a small selection of rose and dessert wines, the concise wine list offers both variety and exceptional value, with many options available by the glass, carafe and bottle. The interior, conceived by Rosendale Design, is warm and inviting with contemporary accents. Dark wooden floors are complemented by green and terracotta leather banquettes lining the exposed brick walls, while the small yet stylish bar on the ground floor – reserved for walk-ins – is covered in slate green tiles and copper edging.
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Razor Clams
Salt Beef
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MASALA LIBRARY BY JIGGS KALRA
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jalebi caviar, saffron glaze, pistachio rabri
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MASALA LIBRARY BY JIGGS KALRA
Masala Library by Jiggs Kalra, the magnumopus of The Czar of Indian Cuisine & Tastemaker to the Nation Mr. Jiggs Kalra, is an endeavour to offer its patrons a neverbefore-undertaken gastronomic voyage, capturing the grandeur of centuries-old customs and the long-lost essence of one of the oldest known culinary traditions in the World. The cuisine served at Masala Library by Jiggs Kalra is a synthesis of over four decades of research and exploration across various Indian kitchens by Mr. Kalra. The philosophy adapted in the menu at Masala Library by Jiggs Kalra revolves around progressive Indian cuisine, using elements of molecular gastronomy as an integral part of the menu to enhance the experience of the dish in terms of not just the flavour and visual appeal but also to introduce an element of surprise into the fray. It forms a part of the vision of presenting the future of Indian cuisine - Indian Cuisine - Version 2.0. Taking pride in the cuisine, the thought behind developing a concept like Masala Library by Jiggs Kalra was to break away from the regular Indian fare, yet keep its traditional elements in place and offer today’s well-travelled diner a combination of nostalgia and contemporary feel through the cuisine.
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pan seared rawas, crab and spinach poriyal, malaya curry
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Progressive Indian Cuisine, The Kebab Trail and The Curry Tour are the three pillars forming the basis of the avant-garde menu at Masala Library by Jiggs Kalra. The menu showcased is prepared from recipes originating from across the geographic landscape of India, including some dishes inspired from the streets of India, retaining their originality. Although, elements of molecular gastronomy form a part of the vision of presenting the future of Indian cuisine, the focus is, and will always remain, on the taste and authenticity of the cuisine first. The aim remains at showcasing authentic, traditional, pan-Indian cuisine, preparing them using pure, authentic, high quality ingredients, yet adding an avant-garde element to the whole menu and experience.
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MASALA LIBRARY BY JIGGS KALRA
bhindi jaipuri, papad ki subzi, hand pounded churma
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The Nine course Degustation menu is a treat for connoisseurs of fine Indian cuisine. The Chef’s tasting menu involves sampling small portions of all Signature Dishes in one sitting and can be accompanied alongside paired wine complementing each dish. The guest’s at Masala Library by Jiggs Kalra will also experience an array of beverages inspired from elements widely used in Indian cuisine, with a union of some traditional ingredients, amalgamating them with alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages to develop an exceptional blend in the form of Cocktails and Mocktails. Some elements of these Gastro-Culinary innovations are also inspired by the practice of molecular gastronomy, where we use the practice of mixing drinks using analysis and techniques found in science to understand and experiment with cocktail ingredients on a molecular level. These beverages are derived from seasonal, organic and unusual ingredients to create a menu which we are confident will excite the adventurous, yet satisfy the traditional taste and evoke nostalgia. At Masala Library by Jiggs Kalra, we don’t just mix drinks; we deconstruct your all-time favourites. It is our modest attempt of unifying Indian ingredients and technique with the flavours of the world and offering a gamut of beverage options to our guests, breaking away from the mundane drinks selection, for a holistic gourmet experience.
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DICIANNOVE - LONDON
DICIANNOVE INSTINCTIVELY ITALIAN
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DICIANNOVE - LONDON
Negronis with a twist. Expertly crafted cicchetti. Piled-high plates of freshlymade pasta. And perfectly formed pizzette. Discover all this at Diciannove – a brand new restaurant, cicchetti bar and deli. In the same spot where Refettorio once stood, executive chef Alessandro Bay is offering Londoners rustic Italian food served up in the most stylish of surroundings. Formerly head chef at its previous incarnation and sous chef at Locanda Locatelli, the man-behind-the-menus is working his magic to offer fabulous Italian fare within the Grade II-listed surroundings of the Crown Plaza London – The City Hotel. Fresh, seasonal ingredients and elegant, creative execution run the gamut from antipasto and cicchetti through to freshly-made pasta and gorgeous grills. Small plates have never been as on-trend as they are now, but that’s always been the way in Italy. Which is why Alessandro is using Diciannove to showcase what his native country does best and championing cicchetti – Italian small plates. Think Puttanesca Pizzette laden with Roma tomato, black and green olives, anchovy fillets, capers and chilli flakes; spider crab salad with cured cucumber, mint and basil; and a tear-and-share antipasto board heaped with prosciutto di Parma, mortadella di Bologna and burrata mozzarella. Traditionally served with an ice-cold beer or
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something crisp, Diciannove brings things bang up-to-date with a range of unique contemporary Italian cocktails. Sinkable highlights include the likes of the signature ‘Wrong Negroni’ – ‘mistakenly-made-on-purpose’ with prosecco rather than gin and muddled with vermouth and Campari; the ‘Twisted Negroni’ – rhubarb, gin, vermouth and Campari; and an ‘Amaretto and Apple Spritz’ made with prosecco and soda. For a ‘merende’ worth remembering, beautiful bar hawks can also enjoy a range of local London and Italian craft beers. Salute! Brisk business lunches or more drawn-out dinners can be enjoyed in the main restaurant. Set against a suitably stylish backdrop of chestnut leather seating, beautifully upholstered banquettes, hefty oak tables and a stunning floating halo-lit ceiling raft, diners can enjoy the undeniable star of the show: freshly made pasta that is sure to have foodies flocking from afar. Must-tries include Saffron Pappardelle with cured pig cheeks, caramelised baby onions and aged pecorino; Lobster Spaghettini topped with pigato, thyme and fresh tomato; and Ricotta & Spinach Gnocchi laced with anchovy butter and blistered baby tomatoes. Meanwhile, dishes from the grill include Pesce Spada – grilled swordfish with garlic bruschetta, red pepper and capers; Pancetta di Maiale – pork belly with pea purée, crisp pancetta and fresh almonds; and Filetto di Manzo – aged beef fillet, seared Roma tomato, garlic and parsley polenta.
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DICIANNOVE - LONDON
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Sure to please even the choosiest carnivorous connoisseurs! And as you’d expect, the exclusively Italian wine list doesn’t take a backseat, featuring no less than 44 bins divided by region with a well-edited selection available by the glass. Away from prying eyes is The Gallery, a well-appointed private dining room set aside from the main restaurant and ideal for power lunches, business meetings or party celebrations for gatherings of up to 34 people. For lunch al desko or for all the ingredients to make an authentic Italian supper in your own kitchen, head for Deli 19 at Diciannove. Choose from a range of freshly made and beautifully packaged products from BalzanoPasta and Lupa Superfine Arborio Rice to rich ragú sauces, cured meats, artisan cheeses and fresh-out-the-oven breads, all chalked up on a delistyle blackboard. Take home a bottle of Platinum Eagle Balsamic Vinegar – apple, pear, fig or honey; silky-smooth extra virgin olive oil infused with truffle, chilli, garlic or Sicilian lemon, perfect for soups, salads, dunking or dipping and chunky jars of powerful pesto to perfect your pasta. From the Deli Counter, allow your eyes to be bigger than your stomach and feast on a selection of grilled aubergine, artichokes, courgettes and large trafficlight coloured peppers; succulent, sweet semi and sun-dried tomatoes and pitted Kalamata and Taggiasca olives.
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THE HAPPENSTANCE - LONDON
the happenstance They say everything happens for a reason, so it’s no coincidence that St Paul’s has recently had an added dash of glamour. With statement chandeliers, a golden subterranean room and plenty of sophisticated touches alongside a mix of heady cocktails and a creative menu, the happenstance is set to make its mark on the Square Mile. Overlooking London’s most iconic landmark, the happenstance is the latest bar and restaurant to be opened by the highly successful team behind the drift, The Folly, The Anthologist, the parlour and the refinery. The Happenstance encompasses a striking bar, deli with mixology table and florist, open-plan dining area and opulent private dining room, “the curious treasury”, making it the perfect choice for early morning meetings, leisurely lunches, after-work cocktails or late-night suppers. Enter and find yourself in the sleek bar, complete with floor-to-ceiling windows framing a view of the world famous cathedral. Statement chandeliers cascade light from the ceiling, a distressed display cabinet holds bottles of champagne, wine and spirits and a quirky bar with a vintage filing cabinet frontage create a hip yet casual vibe. Comfy low-slung chairs are ideal for those looking to linger, whilst polished black high tables serve postwork tipples. With exposed ceilings, reclaimed timber flooring and teal pendant lighting, the main dining room exudes industrial sophistication, with pots of fresh herbs and flickering
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candles adding warmth, inviting you to linger over a leisurely meal. The large room is filled with intimate circular booths, long sharing benches and low level tables to create an open-plan feel, where guests can watch chefs work their magic in the kitchen. For something a little more exclusive, descend the staircase to the glamorous private dining room, ‘The Curious Treasury’. The flexible space is available for up to 60 of your nearest and dearest, or the golden mosaic tiled vaults can be booked for smaller parties. Styled with an oversized Anglepoise light, parquet panelled walls and a 1950’s kitchen which doubles as a private bar, it’s the perfect place to party the night away. When it comes to drinks you’re in safe hands at the happenstance. Skilled mixologists are at your beck and call to shake, mix and muddle a multitude of innovative and wellbalanced cocktails throughout the day. For those watching their waistline the low-calorie ‘skinny’ cocktails are a must-try. Sip away sin-free on heavenly concoctions such as the Hummingbird Cosmo with Little Bird gin, raspberries, lemon and elderflower. A collection of carnival inspired creations are just the ticket for those living life in the fast lane and include showstoppers such as the Goldfish In A Bag, a refreshingly sharp cocktail incorporating gin, mandarin vodka, tonic, rhubarb bitters, a pink grapefruit fish and edible lily pad, all served in a fairground bag with a straw. WO’GOA December 2015 -
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Roast Cod
A dedicated Bloody Mary collection is the perfect cure for the morning after the night before. With a string of four variations, there is something to suit every taste whether you prefer the classic or fancy trying one of Mary’s wayward cousins such as the Med Snapper with gin, rosemary, basil, chili and red pepper. Grape lovers will adore the happenstance’s well-sourced and extensive selection, which includes over 40 wines by the glass. Logically listed, wines are grouped together according to depth and flavour, with low calorie options clearly marked. Sparkling wine and champagne are well stocked to cater for celebrations with bottles of Dom Perignon and Krug Grand Cuvée topping the list. And if you’re having trouble deciding, indulge in a wine flight. Open from 7.30am, the happenstance is ready to welcome the bleariest of eyes with their own-blend coffee, warm pastries and freshly pressed juices to grab on the go. Or for a more leisurely start to the day, pull up a pew for a New York-style brunch and enjoy ham hock hash with a fried duck egg; slow roasted tomatoes on toast with avocado; or waffles with fresh berries and maple syrup.
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Sea Bass Cevic
Lunch and dinner is all about sharing, with imaginatively topped flatbreads, antipasto boards and dishes for grazing. There are also plenty of familiar favourites including gourmet sandwiches and burgers packed with delicious fillings, seasonal salads with zingy dressings, fresh seafood and steaks cooked to perfection. Forget about dull side dishes, the happenstance has a punchy little selection, including naughty-butnice fries with katsu curry sauce and chopped broccoli with quinoa and hazelnuts. And make sure you leave room for the devilishly chocolaty flourless brownie or summer berry trifle sundae, while cocktail lovers can indulge in liquid desserts such as the Salted Caramel Milkshake with bourbon, salted caramel, vanilla ice cream, milk and chocolate bitters. So, whether you’re after a cheeky lunchtime pit-stop, post-work mingling or relaxed evening meal, the happenstance is sure to be a welcome addition to your little black book.
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Warding Evil
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REPUBLIC OF NOODLES - LEMON TREE AMARANTE BEACH RESORT, GOA
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Ensconced in the heart of Candolim, at Lemon Tree Amarante Beach Resort, Goa is the celebrated award winning pan-Asian fine dine restaurant, Republic of Noodles (RON). RON promises you an unforgettable journey through a world of flavors from Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia, Cambodia and Myanmar. The magical creations cooked with the freshest ingredients and served in a truly breathtaking environment invite you to feast your senses to the fullest. Republic of Noodles has an understated elegance, accentuated by its traditional and contemporary Indonesian and Thai artifacts that blend the modern with the traditional. The restaurant, with its deep orange and wooden brown hues welcomes you with its earthy spirit of Southeast Asia. The parquet flooring together with the white walls and the bamboo flora compliment the theme of the restaurant. The subtle lighting infuses the interiors with warmth that is both welcoming and sophisticated. WO’GOA December 2015 -
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REPUBLIC OF NOODLES - LEMON TREE AMARANTE BEACH RESORT, GOA
With a kaleidoscopic menu that boasts of the most interesting selections of Southeast Asian cuisine, RON innovatively blended flavors and textures of the regions. It serves a variety of traditional noodles, stir-fries and clay pot curries besides a wide array of soups and delectable desserts that you would not typically find at any other restaurants of the same genre. The signature hot sauces and accompaniments, made in-house, accentuate the flavors of each preparation. Beautifully presented dishes made from the highest quality
Thai Chicken Satay with Crunchy Peanut Sauce
Chicken with Shitake
ingredients and accompanied by our signature hot sauces promise to set your taste buds on fire. Be sure to cool off with our extensive selection of spirits and wines…and make it the perfect evening out. Start your meal with Grilled Mushrooms with burnt chilly and tamarind marinade or Popiah Je - Vegetable Spring Rolls with Orange Chilly Dip. For non-vegetarians, the musthaves include Pot Roasted Spare Ribs with Honey Glaze and Wok Flashed Thai Garlic Pepper Prawns. If you enjoy soup – try the Indonesian Soto Soup with Glass Noodles and Coriander which is full of flavor. A wide variety of interesting stir fries that include Bamboo Shoots with Picked Chilli, Minced Chicken with Chilli, Garlic and Basil and Red Snapper
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with Homemade Roasted Chilli Paste are very satisfying. The selection of noodles on the menu is quite incredible. Pick from Indonesian Bamee Goreng with Vegetables and Kecap Manis, Northern Thailand Khao Soi Curried Noodles with Grilled Chicken, Bangkok Style Pahd Thai Noodles with Wok Seared Prawns and more. Republic of Noodles is famous for its claypot curries including the Massaman
Corn and Green Scallion Fritters with Ginger Plum Sauce
Curry with Potato and Spinach, the Jungle Curry of Chicken and Vegetables and Green Peppercorn, the rather unusual Pineapple Curry with Prawn and Lychees and the must try Coconut and Turmeric Curry with Red Snapper. Complete your meal with Water Chestnut Rubies and Longan In Coconut Milk, Stewed Peach with Sweetened Sticky Rice, Red Bean Pancakes - with coconut crème sauce or a choice of natural ice cream in flavors typical to the region like Tamarind, Wasabi, Kaffir Lime, Green Tea, Orange and Lemongrass. RON is a perfect destination to discover the pleasures of authentic Southeast Asian fare, needless to say, a must-go for all food lovers. WO’GOA December 2015 -
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PAN ASIAN - HOTEL SHERATON NEW DELHI
Pan Asian At Pan Asian, one can savour the mysteries of Asia in a journey that begins with an intensive tour of the Chinese Sichuan and Beijing province, the second major stop being Thailand, followed by The Land of the Rising Sun, Japan. Transit stops in Singapore, Indonesia, Hong Kong, Burma, Vietnam, with two important overnight stops in remote and rustic Mongolia and in the land of the Morning Calm, Korea. The restaurant is a result of research on these cuisines, over a period of time, by our culinary experts, during their frequent trips to the Orient to gather expertise and resources. The highlight of Pan Asian is its three interactive kitchens with seating around it, which encourage a close interaction with the chefs thus enabling guests to enjoy the experience of watching their meals being prepared according to their personal preferences. The interactive kitchens feature, Chinese & Thai stir and Wok Fry; here one can sample the Mandarin style eggplant with black mushroom in Hoisin sauce or the Siamese style hot basil chicken with garlic and fresh red chillies or the Red snapper with black pepper, Thai style. The Mongolian Brazier: This counter facilitates the Mongolian style of cooking which originates from the days of Chingis Khan, where soldiers grilled meat on battle shields heated over char coal, adding vegetables, spices and seasoning found near their areas of conquest in times of war.
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Crispy Hua
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PAN ASIAN - HOTEL SHERATON NEW DELHI
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Thus whilst ingredients invariably differed over season and place, the cooking style was resurrected recently as featured in the restaurant using a heavy metal hot plate. Here you can choose combinations from the display area of meats, seafood and vegetables, with seasoning and sauces for the chef to grill on his modern iron battle shield. Japanese - Yakitori & Teppan Grill: The Japanese section features Yakitori & Teppanyaki styles of preparation. This station also features the Teppanyaki, which is the Japanese style of cooking on a Teppan flat grill (stainless steel hot plate). Korean Bar-be-cue and Hot Pots: For the very first time in India, Korean bar-be-cue inbuilt grill tables have been especially designed where seafood and meat is grilled at your table and paired with kimchi, sticky rice and dipping sauces. The grill also facilitates the Hot Pots, a tradition popular in most Asian culture, which encourages the concept of family or group dining. Here, one can partake of a leisurely meal, prepared in a cauldron of boiling stock in a pot over the grill, prepared as per the region’s tradition. To this sliced meats, seafood and vegetables are added and simmered at the table during the meal with an assortment of dipping sauces. Seat yourself at the Sushi Bar and watch the chefs’ hands flash like a magician’s, quicker
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Jasmine Tea Flavoured Tomato Soup
than the eye. His hands grab a handful of vinegared rice from the Hangiri and dexterously almost magically form the rice into a plethora of shapes with carefully sliced seafood perched atop to make the famous Nigiri or rolled in a sheath of seaweed to make Maki, Futomaki, Hosomaki, Californian rolls. There is also the conical Temaki and the battleship Gunkanmaki. Team these pleasurable delicacies with Pan Asian’s shimmering selection of adroitly sliced raw seafood or Sashimi, flanked by a chiffonade of radish, wasabi and pon-su sauce. The interiors of the restaurant reflect the spirit of Asia, replete with its oriental coloured walls and pillars, Chinese paper lamps, urns and bamboo shoots. The service staff is equipped with wireless communication devices to enhance guests’ experience in the restaurant. In addition to the above there is a special display area for the Thai carvings and salads. Pan Asian also boasts of an exclusive bar and a wine cellar-cum-showcase with a discerningly assimilated wine collection from across major wine producing countries and vineyards, a library of Asian beers paired for special enjoyment of corresponding food choice.
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SUNSET CRUISE | DINNER CRUISE | MIDNIGHT CRUISE
Only
AED
250 per person
P. O. Box 126012, Dubai, UAE res@xclusivecruise.com www.xclusivecruise.com Like us on & win! facebook.com/xclusivecruise
Call now to book your Xclusive experience
04 457 3185 WO’GOA December 2015 -
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METROPOLITAN R E P O R T
a connoisseur’s guide to the good life
www.metropolitanreport.com
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