EX.IT SEPTEMBER 2018 ISSUE

EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN SEPTEMBER

BY ALFREDO 2018 RUSSO

GIUSEPPE MOLARO

CREATIVE APPROACH

FRANCESCA MAGGIO

SIMONE CANTAFIO

THE ITALIAN IN HOKKAIDO www.extraordinaryitalian.com

PROFESSIONAL PASTRY ACADEMY

MICHELANGELO MAMMOLITI

ARTISAN IN THE KITCHEN EX.IT September 2018 -

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ANDONI LUIS ADURIZ

REIF OTHMAN

JORDI ROCA

ANDRÉ CHIANG

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YANN BERNARD LEJARD

YOSHIHIRO NARISAWA

MANU BUFFARA

PAUL BOCUSE

EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN SEPTEMBER

BY ALFREDO RUSSO 2018

SANTIAGO LASTRA

NOMAD MEXICAN CHEF

HEINZ BECK

CULINARY GENIUS

TERESA CUTTER

THE HEALTHY CHEF

JAMES OAKLEY

BALANCE OF FLAVOURS

BALAZS ENZSOL

SWEET THINGS IN LIFE www.wgmagazines.com

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Good taste isn’t expensive

S P A C E S

F O R

B E A U T I F U L

L I V I N G

conceptplus INTERIOR DESIGN

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Suite 214, Hamsa (A) Office Tower, Za’beel Road Karama, Dubai, United Arab Emirates P.O.Box 300450, Dubai, United Arab Emirates Tel.: +971 4 3705269 I Fax: +971 4 2947442 E-mail : info@conceptplusstyle.com I osama@conceptplusstyle.com - EX.IT September 2018 www.conceptplusstyle.com

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EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN BY ALFREDO RUSSO

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EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN BY ALFREDO RUSSO

“everyday I work in search of pure tastes and Monviso is clearly the superior mineral water choice for me” Chef Alfredo Russo THE TASTE OF PURITY CAPTURED IN A BOTTLE!

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Together we stand strong, dream big and create greater change for causes worldwide.

CharityStars is the international platform specialising in fundraising through digital auctions promoted in collaboration with celebrities and large companies.

All the proceeds are donated to charity.

A different way of raising awareness about the many charitable causes worldwide.

CHECK OUT OUR AMAZING AUCTIONS

www.charitystars.com

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EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN BY ALFREDO RUSSO

Jean-Georges Dubai showcases a comfortable indoor layout with a jade, cozy garden.

While providing a fine atmosphere of an outdoor vivid lounge and stunning interiors, Jean-Georges Dubai offers its guests the chance to enjoy multiple evenings with live entertainment, a Friday brunch with an exquisite menu created by 2 Michelin Star Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten paired with impeccable service. The restaurant presents a warm ambiance that captures Dubai’s affinity throughout the day to uphold a late night.

JG Dubai is a preferred venue for many celebrities who have chosen it as a trendy destination to celebrate their events or simply to enjoy the exquisite dishes and service. Guests who have joined us in the past include key members of royal families in the UAE as well as international names such as Russell James, Franca Sozzani, Nargis Fakhri, Paolo Maldini, Clarence Seedorf, Dwight Yorke, and Christian Louboutin.

Four Seasons Resort Jumeirah Beach Road, Dubai

Book at +971 4 343 6118

info@jean-georges-dubai.com | www.jean-georges-dubai.com

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Together we stand strong, dream big and create greater change for causes worldwide.

CharityStars is the international platform specialising in fundraising through digital auctions promoted in collaboration with celebrities and large companies.

All the proceeds are donated to charity.

A different way of raising awareness about the many charitable causes worldwide.

CHECK OUT OUR AMAZING AUCTIONS

www.charitystars.com

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EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN BY ALFREDO RUSSO

Supporting the community of owners and investors with a proven record of success in hospitality development and management.

Lothar R. Pehl Lotharpehl@gmail.com EX.IT September 2018 -

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Avani and Bala #VisitSpain #Andalusia #Sevilla #Giralda #Architecture #BeautifulView

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EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN BY ALFREDO RUSSO

“IN OUR CITIES, WHEN YOU LEAVE ONE EMBLEMATIC SPOT, YOU ENTER ANOTHER. YOU WILL SOON DISCOVER THAT ALL OF THEM ARE PART OF YOU”.

spain.info

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Culinary Arts can give new life to children... we make it our mission to identify talented, underprivileged children with culinary ambitions and provide opportunities that otherwise would have been beyond their reach‌

Grant MacPherson

WO’GOA Foundation Ambassador An inspirer, innovator and perfectionist - Grant encompasses all the qualities that deserving children can glean from a role model!

The Pearl Martin Benn - Sepia, - EX.IT September 2018 Sydney, Australia

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partnered with SKD ACADEMY the culinary institute in the Philippines

EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN BY ALFREDO RUSSO

AWARNESS IS FINE BUT ADVOCACY TAKES YOUR BRAND TO THE NEXT LEVEL

FOR MORE INFORMATION CONTACT

info@wgkonnect.com

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SEPTEMBER 2018

Editor

Fabian deCastro Alfredo Russo

Feature Editor Contributors

Maria Lourdes Laura Pedrazzoli Elisabete Ferreira Michael Hepworth

Photography

Victoria Shashirin

FJMdesign WGkonnect Photography Consultant Creative Design Studio Publisher IZZY Publishing Pvt. Ltd. EX.IT™ is an online digital publication published by: Izzy Publishing Pvt. Ltd. Unit 14, Agnelo Colony, Kerant, Caranzalem, 403002 Goa, India Tel: +91(832) 2463234 Fax: +91(832) 2464201 sales@extraordinaryitalian.com Company Registration Number U22100GA2011PTC006731 Marketing & Advertising Call: +91 832 246 3234 E-mail: marketing@extraordinaryitalian.com WG™ Beverly Hills Michael Hepworth 287 S.Robertson Blvd Beverly Hills, CA 90211 ©IZZY Publishing Pvt. Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in EX.IT™ digital publication do not necessarily reflect the views of IZZY Publishing Pvt. Ltd. EX.IT™ and IZZY Publishing Pvt. Ltd. cannot be held responsible for any inaccuracies or errors and do not accept responsibility for the advertising content.

All contents are strictly copyright and all rights are reserved.

Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from IZZY Publishing Pvt. Ltd. ©2018 EX.IT™ All rights reserved.

Cover Credit: ALFREDO RUSSO DOLCE STIL NOVO ALLA REGGIA - VENARIA REALE, TORINO

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EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN BY ALFREDO RUSSO

September is the season for the exotic cactus fruit - Sicily’s Prickly Pears, so if you hear food vendors in Sicilian markets shout “bastardoni”, don’t get offended.

Under the guidance of the Bras family, Simone Cantafio learnt the soul of Bras gastronomy. As Chef Director of Masion Bras Toya Japan, Simone lives in the middle of a magical place, on the island of Hokkaido. The restaurant offers a different interpretation of this ‘cuisine of the moment’, still based on the same principles: the use of local produce, deference towards traditions and a profound respect for nature. Two countries, two styles of cuisine, guided by one concept and one standard of excellence.

Being able to become a chef today, Giuseppe Molaro lauds Heinz Beck. He has been able to use all his skills to the best of his ability, the creative process and discipline.

Michelangelo Mammoliti highlights the colors of his land, his beloved Roero, Monviso, he tries to sublime into one delicious mouthful but only after having chosen the best and the most noble products. iCook is the work of Francesca Maggio’s dreams, her passion and intuition led her to the right path. She was probably considered ‘old’ to start anew, but, probably because of that, she felt like she had no time to waste. And, as she discovered, one is never too old to follows his or her dreams.

Paolo Simioni’s philosophy, which he carried to Forte Village is: “cooking is made of passion and rigour” a passion for serving the very best in an uncomplicated way with innovation at the forefront, cooking the very freshest ingredients, of which Sardinia is immensely rich.

Guido Fiorentino, President and CEO of the Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria is the fifth generation Fiorentino. The inimitable Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria has a history full of superlatives. Owned and operated by the Fiorentino family since 1834, the property has hosted Richard Wagner and Oscar Wilde, who enjoyed the same breathtaking views of the Bay of Naples and Mount Vesuvius as today’s guests. A culinary experience at Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria’s Terrazza Bosquet Restaurant with Antonino Montefusco.

With respect and passion at Il Comandante with Salvatore Bianco.

Vincenzo Guarino’s love for the culinary art began at an early young age and now he is able to produce remarkable reinterpretations of traditional specialties with a modern and creative twist. The unconventional culinary artist Valentino Cassanelli’s free expression of Italian cuisine. Behind all his plates is his heart and soul, there is always a story, a message to tell. Before heading to London, an inviting journey to the origins of Italian culinary culture with Antonio Mattiussi. Here in London at Alain Ducasse at Dorchester, Ruben Desport gives wine an expression.

Buon appetito!

Alfredo Russo EX.IT September 2018 -

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For more than 80 years, Bragard supports women and men who give the best of themselves everyday at work to ignite their client’s taste buds.

Combining tradition and inovation, professional workwear from Bragard gained unparalled reputation thanks to its quality and make the biggest names of the culinary and hospitaly world proud.

BRAGARD LLC OFFICE 604 BEDAIA BUILDING AL BARSHA 1 PO BOX 214338 DUBAI UAE Tel : +971 4 395 16 11 Fax : +971 4 395 16 12 fabien.firetto@bragard.com

www.bragard.com

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SEPTEMBER 2018

CONTENTS 28

Italian In Hokkaido

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Creative Approach

58

Artisan In The Kitchen

68

Professional Pastry Academy

76

With Passion & Rigour

86

Bastardoni Ice Cream - Prickly Pears of Sicily

88

Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria

102

Respect & Passion

110

Giving Wine An Expression

122

Reinterpretations Of Traditional Specialties

132

A Menu With A Story

140

Italian Food Delicacies

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EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN BY ALFREDO RUSSO

EX.IT EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN

ALFREDO RUSSO - BASTARDONI ICE CREAM DOLCE STIL NOVO ALLA REGGIA - VENARIA REALE, TORINO

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DUTY DUTYFREE FREE PRODUCTS PRODUCTS & & BONDED BONDED STORES STORES

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SIMONE CANTAFIO

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EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN BY ALFREDO RUSSO

B

orn in Milan to Calabrian parents, Simone’s story is like many other young people. At 17 he decided to begin his culinary career, where he spent 5 years at Carlo Porta, the hotel and culinary school in Milan and four years during summer he managed to get the opportunity to do his first kitchen stage at Cracco-Peck restaurant in Milano, under the direction of Carlo Cracco. The atmosphere in the kitchen was full of energy, everyone ambitious as they all worked towards one goal… to make it and find perfection. Simone questioned himself how Cracco build his career and where he found his style, he discovered that he honed his skills with Gualtiero Marchesi, Alain Duccase, Alain Sanderens and he understood at that moment which master gave him his part to build his way step by step.

SIMONE CANTAFIO Italian in Hokkaido

So after graduating from Carlo Porta, Simone decided to apply to Gualtiero Marchesi’s restaurant in Erbusco, Gualtiero promised to give him a place as a commis before the interview but the situation changed when he arrived at the restaurant. There only job available was to work as a service staff. Completely sad and disappointed, he thought it was pointless for him to wear the service uniform after spending 5 years studying about the kitchen. His father intervened and said “Simone will buy all the dress and you will have him for tonight as a service staff, no problem”, Simone was shocked as he was thinking of going home and forgetting all about this kitchen dream. His father explained “That there was no going back home, you need to push yourself and make your way right now, life is a sacrifice, nothing comes easy, and you must learn how it is difficult to follow a dream”. Simone took up the service job and 6 months he got his kitchen uniform.

This was the start to his culinary career. “This is why I never give up, it was not easy to get my chefs jacket, now no one can take it out, it’s like a double skin for me and with pride and passion I wear it”.

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SIMONE CANTAFIO

“A chef is not just a job, it is a lifestyle and you must build on it day by day until the end of your life”

Gualtiero Marchesi

LAMB’S SADDLE OF AKABIRA-HOKKAIDO, CHICKPEA HUMMUS AND LAMB MILLEFEUILLE CONFIT AND RAS EL HANOUT TOUCH

GARGOUILLOU OF YOUNG VEGETABLE SEEDS & HERBS

The experience at Gualtiero Marchesi was absolutely magic, with everything new to his eyes, new things every day and being in the same kitchen with the great master was a real honour for him. Gualtiero took him under his wing, taught him to be professional, to love his job and gave him something to remember “A chef is not just a job, it is a lifestyle and you must build on it day by day until the end of your life”. All the chefs would gather after service to listen to Gualtiero’s kitchen world, where he talked about his story, how nouvelle cuisine was born and how he started the Italian gastronomy revolution. Simone spent the next 3 years with Gualtiero Marchesi, who then suggested that he goes to France (once Gualtiero knew his chefs were ready to go to the next level he would suggest to the chef where to go, the same like he did with Carlo Cracco, Enrico Crippa, Paolo Lopriore, Davide Oldani and several more chefs) to do his next stage.

Gualtiero told him “Simone, now is time to grow up and build your strong character, you must have the French 3 Michelin star experience.” Simone stepped up, ready to leave Italy and was ready for France. “Go find your way, study and make a brilliant career, and my door is open for you when you want to come back…“ Gualtiero wrote in a letter which he always keeps it close to his heart, the memory of this beautiful person who opened the door to the world of gastronomy for him which grateful and will never forget.

France was the next stage at 21 with Georges Blanc at his three Michelin star restaurant in Vonnas, he started out as a commis but had a problem as he did not know any French, he started to learn French and he started from scratch and from the bottom, from cleaning to peeling mushrooms, the cabbage, etc. since he could not understand what they were saying in the kitchen, he listened to what was said, started to repeat what he heard and in 6 months he was able to learn French. With Georges Blanc at one of the best classic French restaurants, besides learning how to make sauces, cooking meats and fish, he learnt the French hierarchy and strict rules.

“What Georges taught me was absolutely important for my career in the kitchen, at the beginning it was difficult and stressful but I had a great time”.

THE FILLET OF PLAICE POACHED IN OIL OF BLACK OLIVES, CAULIFLOWER AND QUINOA CRACKER, SAUCE WITH CUMIN TOUCH

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EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN BY ALFREDO RUSSO

THE BOTAN EBI SHRIMP FISHED IN HOKKAIDO, GENTLY SAUTÉED WITH LARD OIL, AVOCADO CREAM AND LIME, SEASONING OF DEVILED BEETS

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SIMONE CANTAFIO

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MY LIFE BETWEEN ITALY-FRANCE-JAPAN...

VELVETY FRESH PEAS WITH BACON OIL, DARK RED ONION AND WILD OREGANO CRUST, HEMEROCAL WILD FLOWER FROM TOYA BEACH, STUFFED WITH TROUT OF LAKE TOYA AND WILD GARLIC LEAVES

EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN BY ALFREDO RUSSO

When at Gualtiero’s restaurant, he stayed in a dormitory with his colleagues and one of them had a cook book of Michel Bras, and he told his colleague that ‘one day he will for him’, they all told him that there was no way he would be considered. It was time that he stepped up and took the chance, Georges Blanc helped him and contacted Laguiole and he was given a chance to try out for a few days, this was the beginning at Bras Laguiole France, and now it is almost 10 years that Simone works for this great and amazing family.

Under the guidance of the Bras family, Simone learned the soul of Bras gastronomy. Every year at the beginning of the season, Bras family spends 3 days to introduce the Bras philosophy to new staff, this moment has a deep meaning.

Both Michel and Sébastien start off with “If you are here to just take our recipes, have the Bras Brand on your CV, then please leave here right now. At Bras, it’s about passion, love for guest and nature, if you are here to learn and make a full immersion in our philosophy, stay with us and be open a 100% to live this moment in Aubrac land.”

At 23, he fell in love with the Bras family, it was not only about the kitchen or service but about nature, respect and the real meaning of hospitality. Their beautiful minds and great thoughts behind every dish. People waking up 3 o’clock in the morning to give supply the best vegetables, best fish, and best product. “I learnt to respect the people around me and of course Michel and Sébastien taught me the kitchen.

Sébastien taught me how to cook foie gras correctly, how to make the perfect lamb and how to manage the fire during the service, while Michel thought me how to choose best product in the market at 4:00 am, how to choose the best leaves in his garden, how to make a combination between the vegetable world and the rest of the elements on a dish, how to give sense to my job and life. Michel taught me how to translate nature in a dish. This is what I always dreamed of.”

EVER GREEN...

BLANCMANGE OF APPLE AND YOGHURT, SAUCE WITH GREEN HERBS AND AROMATIC SALAD OF YOUNG HERBS FROM THE VEGETABLE GARDEN AND THE FOREST

Under the guidance of the Bras family, Simone learned the soul of Bras gastronomy...

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SIMONE CANTAFIO

LAND AND SEA OF HOKKAIDO BOT EBI SAUTEED WITH “NIAC ORANGE JUNIPER”, CAULIFLOWER OF OUR GARDEN, GRILLED GOLDEN, MOUSSELINE OF SHELLFISH AND ORANGE

As Chef Director of Masion Bras Toya Japan, Simone lives in the middle of a magical place on the island of Hokkaido, in the north of Japan, near the village of Toya, on the top floor of a building which kisses the skies and sits proudly overlooking a lake, there is another culinary expression of the Bras philosophy. The restaurant offers a different interpretation of this ‘cuisine of the moment’, still based on the same principles: the use of local produce, deference towards traditions and a profound respect for nature. Two countries, two styles of cuisine, guided by one concept and one standard of excellence, which enables Sébastien Bras to build culinary bridges between Laguiole and Toya, based on wonderful encounters and discoveries.

The cuisine at Toya highlights the purity of flavors in perfect harmony… “When you have the chance to get the best product from the Hokkaido, you can feel the passion of the farmer, you can see how vegetable, fish, and animal grow up in this land. It is all about respect. The balance is inside him, the combination of what he sees, taste, feels, learns and then he chooses the element. After that he thinks how to support the texture, the taste and preserve his nature, as there is no point for him to destroy them essence, and the balance comes from respecting the nature and the suppliers.

“I have the opportunity to grow up in one of the best Maison in the world.

Michel Bras is like a father and Sebastien Bras is like a big brother to me”

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His approach in the kitchen is to follow his heart, recalling Michel Bras’ answer to one of the journalist last year “Why do you have an Italian chef in your restaurant in Japan?”

Michel’s reply was “We choose Simone because he is cook and he works the kitchen with his heart, after that fallow with the technique.” I believe that love in the kitchen can change a recipe. I saw this with the cooking of my mother and grandmother, the something special which can be found in all their dishes – we call it Love.” As a young chef, it was more of the trying to make a beautiful dish, an amazing art dish but growing up with Michel Bras, he realized that the kitchen is not only about visual but it’s much more deeper than that. With a focus on ingredients, he realizes that guests know what they are eating and it’s important to work with the best of everything, ingredients, cooking techniques, the service, wine and the hospitality.

EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN BY ALFREDO RUSSO

SÉBASTIEN BRAS, SIMONE CANTAFIO AND MICHEL BRAS

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SIMONE CANTAFIO

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COMING FROM THE AVEYRON - FRANCE GRILLED RACK OF LAMB, SOFT EGG CREAM AND AROMATIC HERBS, PEA TACOS COLLECTED THIS MORNING IN OUR GARDEN

EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN BY ALFREDO RUSSO

MICHEL BRAS AND SIMONE CANTAFIO

In Japan, Simone fell in love with Kaiseki, a collection of skills and techniques with the right balance, contrast, elegance, the seasons, nature and textures; and he hopes one day he will be able to create this experience.

He has his own process to his creations where the dish starts from within him, the next is research about the ingredients where they come from, and how it is grown or produced, and then he puts these ideas in his special book. He starts with all the preparations by himself as learning from Gualtiero Marchesi ‘lead by example as it is the best way of being taught’, the team is not involved in his first steps as he takes responsibility for his creations. Once sure of his recipe, his team has the first take on the final dish and then the sous chef, restaurant manager, sommelier to taste the dish. After the feedback on improvements which he is open to respect and accept, passed this point, Simone is able to tweak the dish if require and then he puts it on the menu. The test is the first week which is most important, where he sees the returns of the new dish, if something is left behind on the dish as guest are the best judges of one’s kitchen and one should not forget that.

IN PROCESS OF CREATING A NEW DISH...

MICHEL BRAS AND SIMONE CANTAFIO

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SIMONE CANTAFIO

“I always believe in the Bras philosophy and having lived in Laguiole for 4 years, I felt the richness of the land, it was for sure not truffle or caviar or lobster but it was the perfection of simplicity, if you can create a great dish from what nature give you, you can preserve nature of the ingredient which is something special, and then I learn the meaning of this concept - less you have, more deep will be your expression, because you must care, respect your ingredient.” Hokkaido is one of those magical places for brilliant ingredients, from fish to seafood, fruits and vegetables to meats and especially wild deer. Vegetables is one of his favourite ingredients as it gives him the best feelings cooking them, he calls it the ‘vegetable soul’, as he listens to them before you start cooking, adding pieces of butter to a green cabbage or put a carrot under sea salt or make a sauce with the essence of summer tomatoes, this is his happiness as he finishes the dish with herbs from the garden, it is magic to him.

ENCLOSED IN A MUSTARD LEAF, THE ESCALOPE OF SWEETLY COOKED FOIE GRAS, PEAR AND MUSTARD PURÉE, YOUNG MUSTARD LEAVES

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His thoughts on overrated ingredients… “There is no best ingredient or bad ingredient, cheap or expensive that is what I learnt with my master. My opinion they are just ingredients and the ability of a chef to understand and how to work with it in the best way. For example, a simple tomato and beautiful homemade bread with a slice of ham, can give more emotion than a big black truffle, if you don’t know how to cook and use it, then you lost all the truffle soul and it will become bad ingredient. It is how to use ingredients, how understand ingredients, it is all about respect.”

EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN BY ALFREDO RUSSO

SOBETSU VILLAGE TOMATO, SLICE & MARINATED WITH BASIL OIL, HOKKAIDO SEA URCHIN, FRESH TOMATO CONFIT PASTA AND SOUR TOMATO POWDER, FRESH MOZZARELLA FROM TOYA FARM

Toya, Japan two countries, two styles of cuisine, guided by one concept and one standard of excellence...

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SIMONE CANTAFIO

GREEN ASPARAGUS OF MME. NANASHA, MARINATED WITH THE ESSENCE OF BASIL LEAVES, GRILLED SEA SNAILS AND BRUSHSTROKES WITH REDUCTION OF WINE AND MUSCOVADO SUGAR, BARLEY SALAD WITH PESTO

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EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN BY ALFREDO RUSSO

Special cooking techniques, equipment’s… when he arrived in Japan he fell in love with Yakitori, a preparation that involves skewering meat, it was the smell, contact with fire, the ability for a chef to control the cooking. Loves to work with natural fire for his recipes, it’s that elegance, the ambience of natural fire that a machine can’t replace. The old style of cooking is one of the best approaches to a good chef, at the same time helps to improve one’s skills. “Today with the vacuum system or sous vide, young chefs have lost the ability to feel what they are cooking, this is a big disappointment because one of the reasons why I chose to become a chef is to love the contact between me and the ingredient, and there is no point for me to do this job if a machine stays always in the middle.”

His approach to a good dish is having great balance between product, creativity and technique. With great product you have 70% of the job done, love and creativity goes in next and at the same time the knowledge, using the right technique to create a high level dish. It is a mix of these three to a great start in a great kitchen.

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SIMONE CANTAFIO

TOYA - VIEW OF THE PACIFIC OCEAN ON ONE SIDE AND THE OTHER A VIEW OF LAKE TOYA

His greatest influences comes from his origin, having been born in Milan but grew up in both North and South of Italy, he is proud to be Italian, the love for his family, and he tries to respect and protect his family history. Today Simone’s kitchen is from these strong values.

“A chef should never forget where he comes from and should be proud to tell his story even if he is cooking in a French restaurant.

My blood is purely Italian and you can feel this in all his dishes, the soul is there.”

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The memories of his childhood flavours, both his grandmother and mother were great cooks, he used to love going to the vegetable market with his father Pasquale in Lamezia Terme in Clabria during the summers. They would choose the best tomatoes, eggplant and he would put his nose in wonderful green basil leaves, returning back home, he would see how the woman of his life would prepare the best Parmigiana di Melanzane, something he never forgets, because it’s full of love, he can still smell the aroma in the house, this taste stays with him in his heart and mind; it is a pleasure of happiness.

Simone was lucky to grow up in a brilliant surrounding, where his mother and grandmother gave him that value to love, share with others and to always be simple but like is not always colourful there are also dark moments in life. One of them was in 2012, when his mother and both grandmothers passed away, it was a difficult time for him yet he to focus on his kitchen. He recalls one day when he told his mother “I will do my best because you gave me your best” this is the motivation to grow to be strong. He always thinks his mother and grandmother are besides him, supporting him when he is cooking. He always adds a special touch to his dishes, this gives the last energy to his dish, for him it’s his angel touch, full of meaning, something about his kitchen and love.

EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN BY ALFREDO RUSSO

COOKED ON LIVE FIRE FILLET OF ANAGO FISH FLAVORED WITH FRESH SANCHO LEAVES, RED CABBAGE COOKED IN PAPILLOTTE AND FINISHED ON THE GRILLED, SAUCE WITH HOKKAIDO SAKE

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SIMONE CANTAFIO

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LIKE AN AUTUMN CHEESE CAKE CRUNCHY WITH WALNUTS, CREAM OF WHITE CHEESE, ROASTED FIGS ICE CREAM

EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN BY ALFREDO RUSSO

Last year a one of his classmates put his on the list of the best 300 world chefs, Michel Bras sent him a message ‘A great job, but please remember to build on a great story, the way is long, take your time and do your best everyday’ he understood that it’s not the awards and accolades but it is what guests say as they are the best judges, and the true meaning of stay on the top.

When asked if cuisine has changed in the last years… “In the last ten years, I think our world has changed, many young people want to become chefs today. This is a good point but at same time they want to build they career quickly sometimes without logic, my best suggestion is ‘take your time, live each steps of your career’. One day one of my masters told me ‘children start learning the alphabets before they can start to write, chefs should start to learn the A to Z of the kitchen before they can start to create’, sometimes these young chefs stop in the middle of their apprenticeship and think they know it all… there is no meaning in doing so as this is no game, the kitchen and gastronomy is more than that. People need to take their time and learn from a great chef, remember being a chef is not one of the best jobs in the world, it is a long and hard road, take a breath and enjoy all your steps.”

At 32, he thinks the best is yet to come, he loves what he does, he feels this in his lifestyle and happy to be a chef as he couldn’t imagine doing anything else. Growing up and finding his best is his goal every day.

For him, perfection does not exist as he is always doing his best to arrive to it.

This is his secret, his passion, this is Simone Cantafio!

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GIUSEPPE MOLARO

B

orn in Naples, Giuseppe started his culinary career at the age of 14 in the family restaurant learning the Neapolitan tradition. It was natural to him as he watched his father cook, and started to think that this is what he want in his life. Thanks to his family, he started this beautiful journey of my becoming a chef with his father as inspiration.

GIUSEPPE MOLARO

Creative Approach 46 - EX.IT September 2018

The starting point of his journey was culinary school at IPSSAR De Medici in Ottaviano, being in the kitchen and cooking has always been his forte, for him being a chef was not a job, it was way of life with passion.

After graduated from the catering school, Giuseppe went on to continue learning in various restaurants in Campania: Villa Smeraldo, Il Chiostro, Le Arcade catering, where he could combine classic and innovation skills. Ireland’s Sapori Italiani was his first experience outside Italy for a year and a half and then moving to the kitchen of Santi Santamaria.

At El Raco De Can Fabes, Giuseppe took his first steps knowing how to respect a treat raw material of the highest quality. This was a very big learning curve for him as he learnt what it meant to work as and in a team. The discipline, cleaning, long hours, the non-stop pressure and above all reaching the objective as a team member. Even though at the beginning it was very difficult, it was a new perspective of what it means to be a chef and cooking at the highest level that just made him want more and more. The burning desire in him to learn and always do better.

EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN BY ALFREDO RUSSO

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GIUSEPPE MOLARO

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COLD SPAGHETTINI WITH CLAMS, ROCKET AND ZUCCHINI

EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN BY ALFREDO RUSSO

NORDIC GRAINS PHOTO © NORDIC FOOD LAB, COPENAGHEN

Inspired by Heinz Beck

After 2 years, he wanted to extend his knowledge from the classic kitchen to something more experimental and moved to work with Heinz Beck. It was here with Heinz Beck he learnt to put together aesthetics and taste, and discovering new techniques. He found new ingredients and combinations to give life to new taste. And thanks to Heinz Beck, he was able to widen his knowledge working at different restaurants of Heinz Beck – the three Michelin-Starred restaurant La Pergola, Michelin star Les Paillotte in Pescara, Michelin star Gusto by Heinz Beck in Portugal, Social by Heinz Beck in Dubai, Sensi

by Heinz Beck and as Executive Chef at Restaurant Heinz Beck.

In every country, he researched for quality ingredients, to the understanding the local market, and what grown in the country, seasonality and then to transform all this in to flavors with the ingredients and the taste all working in perfect harmony together. Working on a menu based on the season, the base product is the most important thing.

Being able to become a chef today, Giuseppe lauds Heinz Beck. He has been able to use all his skills to the best of his ability, organizing the team, the creative process and discipline.

COD, JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES AND BUTTER MOLE PHOTO © CAROUSEL LONDON

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GIUSEPPE MOLARO

the kitchen should be creative and interpretive place which contains within itself a great mix of styles and cultures...

EDAMAME

EX.IT catches up Giuseppe Molaro…

A creative approach, your culinary philosophy and inspiration behind creating a new dish…

My cooking style is contemporary and I think the kitchen should be creative and interpretive place which contains within itself a great mix of styles and cultures. Inspiration comes from the ingredients itself, with their own story I can express with my dishes using my creativity. By bringing together elements that inspire emotions, places, people, things that lead me to complete the dish in both flavor and style. As soon as I find something that strikes me, while I’m at the market or around the city, I absorb all the emotions and feelings and try to bring in a new dish after days or sometimes weeks and I recreate the same emotion or feelings that I had at that moment.

GREEN PEPPER FILLLED WITH EGGPLANT, PROVOLA AND SAUSAGE, AND RED WINE SAUCE

Ingredients that inspire you, your favorite ingredients and ingredients you were not able to master…

Working in Japan, I continue to discover to discover new and interesting products like abalone, wagyu, besides the vegetables, beef and fish. For a good selection of the ingredients it is important to check the supply chain, from the origin to the treatment of the animal or the pesticides used on fruit and vegetables until the delivery to the restaurant.

I like to have direct contact with the producers so I can see first-hand how and what they do to their products before it comes to me.

Pasta, extra virgin olive oil, tomato and bread is something which reminds me of my Napels.

Durian is something I do not use because of the smell.

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GARLIC CORN

EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN BY ALFREDO RUSSO

KINMEDAI WITH BABY ONION, MAKOMODAKE AND BLACK OLIVES SAUCE

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GIUSEPPE MOLARO

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CRAB (HANASAKI GANI FROM HOKKAIDO) WITH BELLPEPPER, SALMON ROE AND CONSOMME OF PARMA HAM WITH VERBENA FLAVOUR

EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN BY ALFREDO RUSSO

RESTAURANT HEINZ BECK

Special cooking techniques and equipment’s you enjoy using…

In the world of gastronomy there are endless techniques and equipment’s. However, I particularly like to use the lyophilize at low temperature (-40) dehydration process which involves freezing the product, lowering pressure then remove the ice by sublimation, and preserving all the nutritional properties, aromas and flavours internal of the product.

Technique, because treating a product of the highest quality means that great results can come out.

Produce, Creativity or Technique…

Your greatest influence in the kitchen…

It’s the Asian influence because it gives me the chance to get to know new products, new techniques and new flavours.

RESTAURANT HEINZ BECK

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GIUSEPPE MOLARO

LAMB WITH RENKON, BEETROOT AND TOASTED CUMIN SAUCE

Cooking is a continuous learning process, studying new techniques, new flavours, new contrasts and combinations...

Your earliest food memory, flavors from your childhood can you not live without‌ The Sunday lunch at my grandmother house, she use to wake up at 5 a.m. to prepare the ragÚ sauce and cook it for 5 hours. As soon as I use to arrive at her house, I would take a slice of bread and put the sauce and eat it, it is a very fond memory.

It has to be the cherry tomatoes because when I was little I use to pick tomatoes with my grandfather to make preserves for the whole winter. The aroma and flavours of those tomatoes bring fond memories.

What was the feeling to receive a Michelin star this year and what keeps you motivated at this point of your career?

Was very much satisfied as it was one of my goal to achieve.

But at the same time, this is just another starting point to grow and make me set up other goals to be on another level of professionalism and also to be a better person.

What do you do to stay on top of the new cooking trends?

It is a continuous learning process, studying new techniques, new flavours, new contrasts and combinations.

TUNA WITH GRILLED ENDIVE, BALSAMIC VINEGAR, ONION IN CARPIONE AND FERMENTED CELERY LEAF POWDER

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EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN BY ALFREDO RUSSO

TORTELLINI CAPRESE

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GIUSEPPE MOLARO

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SQUID WITH FENNEL, GRILLED WATERMELON AND GREEN BEANS

EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN BY ALFREDO RUSSO

PIGEON WITH KINKAN MARMALADE, YOUNG CORN AND CINNAMON SAUCE

In the past years how has cuisine changed around the world and especially Italian cuisine in Japan?

There has been radical changes when it comes to avant-garde cuisine with new techniques. In recent years, I think there has been a change of Italian cuisine in Japan that was previously only pizza and spaghetti. With the arrival of important chefs, Japan now sees what is the real Italian fine dining is.

Being a chef is perceived as a glamorous profession, advice to chefs entering the kitchen for the first time‌ This is a work full of sacrifices, but if you have the passion and the desire to learn more and more it becomes easier, the important thing is not to be discouraged by the first difficulties but to aim higher and higher.

PIGEON WITH FIGS, SALTWART AND PECAN NUTS

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MICHELANGELO MAMMOLITI

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EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN BY ALFREDO RUSSO

B

MICHELANGELO MAMMOLITI

PHOTO © BRAMBILLA SERRANI e DAVIDE DUTTO

ARTISAN IN THE KITCHEN

orn just outside Alba, his passion is almost innate as his family, in particular his grandparents had been a restaurant owner for over 30 years so as a child until the age of 4 he grew up in the restaurant. He spent most of my time in the kitchen and for him it was fun to see all the ingredients and see how they were transformed into something extraordinary. After the age of 11, he decided that his life would be dedicated to trying to do this work at a high level. At 14, he bought his first book in French, it was a book that he was fascinated with the extraordinary techniques of this great French chef - Michel Bras and decided that France would become his second home.

Michelangelo’s peregrinations in France lasted over five years at some of the most prestigious kitchens with Alain Ducasse, Pierre Gagnier and Yannik Alleno at Pavillon Ledoyen in Paris. It was with then that Michelangelo forges his philosophy, laying the foundation for what today is his way of cooking and which is based on three key words – standards, excellence and rigor. His journey then continued with Marc Meneau at Saint Pere sous Vezelay and it is Marc who transmitted the deep passion for cooking which today Michelangelo tries to infuse into every single dish so as to satisfy the expectations of his guest.

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MICHELANGELO MAMMOLITI

The team is the lifestyle of the chef, an outfit which he chooses to wear, a modus operandi which traces the DNA of the dishes which will be served in the restaurant.

The secret for success.

The soul of the restaurant.

Michelangelo highlights the colors of his land, his beloved Roero, Monviso which is a stone’s throw away. All this he tries to sublime into one delicious mouthful but only after having chosen the best and the most noble products with which it is impossible not to combine simple choices, sometimes unusual, such as forgotten roots, flowers, shoots or wild herbs.

EX.IT catches up with Michelangelo Mammoliti…

APOLLO

You cook traditional cuisine, passion for Italian produce, a perfect culinary approach that blends tradition and innovation in perfect harmony…

The balance of a dish is made by the cook’s palate so I essentially use the precise rules, which are: ACIDITY: a dish must have a good acidity because it allows you to stimulate salivation and therefore increases appetite. CRUNCH: a dish must have a crispy part because it also stimulates chewing.

SEASONING: the perfect seasoning must be precise to sublimate the product. EXTRACTION: I always use a base extracted from a vegetable or an animal to amplify the taste and reduce the amount of sauce. CONCENTRATION: I always try to have a dish with a concentrated flavor to be immediate on the palate and therefore easy to understand for those who taste it; and MEMORY: I always work on cognitive memory with a group of psychologists who help me to find the most frequent memories in our mind and try to stimulate them with certain actions or perfumes.

TRASPARENZA DI BARBAIETOLA E TONNO

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EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN BY ALFREDO RUSSO

ASTICE

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MICHELANGELO MAMMOLITI

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NEW YORK GUARENE

EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN BY ALFREDO RUSSO

Nature gives us life and we artisans of the kitchen can do nothing but recognize its beauty and thank it for the fortune we have received…

The experience which helped you as a chef…

I had the chance and luck of working with great chefs in Italy Marchesi and Baiocco and then going to France and learning from chefs like Ducasse, Gagnier, Meneau and Yannick Alléno. Each of these great cooks taught me and trained forge a professional conviction and precision that I had never seen anywhere else.

Marchesi gave me the respect for art, Baiocco the approach to the world of herbs.

Ducasse, it was respect for the product, discipline in the kitchen and the technique.

Menau the human relationship with his brigade and Alléno taught me to be a chef.

Each of these chefs has helped become the chef I am today.

Every morning I enter my restaurant with the same conviction and motivation, the same way when I entered their kitchens “sublimare the products offered by nature to provide emotions and those who decide to come and taste my kitchen”.

The process and inspiration of creating a new dish…

My creative process starts essentially from personal memories, from a trip or from my garden. So often before elaborating a new plate, I start from the design of the vegetable garden and therefore I sow products that have an emotional and personal memory linked to the past or to a trip.

Often I like to take the right time to analyze the products that I will use then before processing something new pass by 3/6 months with various tests that follow each day until the plate is ready to be put in my menu.

I am obsessed with beauty in general so I spend a lot of time observing what nature offers us and consequently I love everything that is plant. I do not think I could do without it.

INCENDIO

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MICHELANGELO MAMMOLITI

“Without an extraordinary product you could not even start a creative process, creativity is stimulated by curiosity and the knowledge of an exceptional product and the technique.

The balance of a dish is made by the cook’s palate”

Ingredient obsessions - ingredients that inspire you and those you were not able to master…

This year more than ever I have selected several species of forgotten roots, such as some varieties of beets, chervil of tuberose, rutabaga carrots, old tomatoes in my garden I have a selection of 37.

DAME BLANCHE

All vegetables in particular the roots, tomatoes and aubergines inspire me.

The kiwi is something that I’ve been working on this food for about two years yet nor mastered it.

Special cooking techniques or equipment you particular enjoy using…

I am a lover of fire, I love the flame and all the process it takes to get to this cooking technique then the bbq, the grill, cooking yakitori and I love the cast iron cocotte.

Produce, Creativity or Technique…

They are all three fundamental, without an extraordinary product you could not even start a creative process, creativity is stimulated by curiosity and the knowledge of an exceptional product and the technique and the basis of the kitchen without the product could not be sublimated.

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ASTRATTISMO

EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN BY ALFREDO RUSSO

ERYTHRONIUM LATTICELLO E UOVA TROTA

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MICHELANGELO MAMMOLITI

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EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN BY ALFREDO RUSSO

Have fun when you cook if it does not mean that there is something that is missing...

When you opened La Madernassa Restaurant what was the feeling when you received your first awards and what keeps you motivated at this point of your career?

The feeling of the first prizes was a gratification to the work done in these years of sacrifice and work. When we received the first star, it was the most beautiful day of my professional life. That day was the confirmation that working hard and with rigor and seriousness, results are obtained.

Being a chef is perceived as a glamorous profession, advice to chefs entering the kitchen for the first time‌ Travel as long as you are young, be curious and never settle, work with seriousness and determination. A transition to France and mandatory classical basics and techniques must be known to develop their creativity, have fun when you cook if it does not mean that there is something that is missing.

SOTTO UNA COLTRE FIORITA

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FRANCESCA MAGGIO

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EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN BY ALFREDO RUSSO

FRANCESCA MAGGIO PROFESSIONAL PASTRY ACADEMY PHOTO © SIMONE GIANNINI

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FRANCESCA MAGGIO

iCook is the work of Francesca’s dreams, she started to take serious interest in pastry and cooking after years of work in another field. She had no knowledge of the world, nor connections, but even though she had no idea where to start, passion and intuition led her to the right path. Attending what at the time was considered the best schools, never stopping, never giving up, even when her family was against this change of profession.

“She was probably considered ‘old’ to start anew, but, probably because of that, she felt like she had no time to waste. And, as she discovered, one is never too old to follows his or her dreams”

As co-founder and director of iCook, in 2012, she became the school’s director, it was an incredible challenging yet creative and an inspiring role. As always very ambitious, her continuous need of innovation inspired her to reach excellence in every field. The school helped her improve her management abilities. A person who loves to interact with people, listen to their needs and help them with their professional growth. iCook pastry academy is indeed the work which she is most proud of.

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EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN BY ALFREDO RUSSO

FRANCESCA MAGGIO AND LUCA MONTERSINO

MASTER CLASS BY JOHAN MARTIN, PROFESSOR AT THE BELLOUET CONSEIL SCHOOL IN PARIS

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FRANCESCA MAGGIO

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MASTER CLASS BY JOHAN MARTIN

EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN BY ALFREDO RUSSO

Luca Montersino and Francesca Maggio founders of the professional pastry academy

A relatively small school by founders Luca Montersino and Francesca Maggio. Luca is a renowned pastry chef, teacher and consultant, a cook and pastry teacher, both enterprising friends and dreamers. iCook generates the meeting between passion and haute cuisine. Short courses and academies make culinary innovation within everyone’s reach: amateurs can increase their culture and professionals can perfect it.

Competence and seriousness alternate with moments of sharing.

Housed in a completely renovated building, a functional, elegant and modern environment in the heart of the characteristic center of Chieri, a few steps from the city’s cathedral Duomo. Here student and professor are always at close contact. Master classes are limited to a small number so as to guarantee the best possible training. Learning is not only made of studying rules and techniques, but also in tune to oneself emotions that lay underneath a masterpiece of the pastry art.

EX.IT catches up with Francesca Maggio…

What do students expect from iCook?

Students coming to iCook do not come by chance. We are one of the smallest schools out there, but the teaching we offer is so wide and unique, we have no rivals on that account.

Students coming to iCook want to learn from the best…and i think this is exactly what they find with us.

JOHAN MARTIN AND FRANCESCA MAGGIO

How has teaching changed?

When I started in this field, there were no dedicated academies, only monothematic classes, and 3 days at the most. Now, one can cover the basis of all pastry or cooking by attending a single academy, and do a stage in less than a year.

What is the meaning of knowledge for a chef?

First of all I want to point out that there is a difference between ‘chef’ and ‘teacher’. My own personal experience led me to choose who best fits the role of ‘teacher’. Study and practical experience make all the difference.

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FRANCESCA MAGGIO

“Beside the courses the normal academy has, iCook also includes classes with international master chefs”

What solutions do you propose to the students who long for professional or amateur lessons?

JOHAN MARTIN AND FRANCESCA MAGGIO

For those who dream to become pastry chef, out pastry academy is the most complete and best offer without a doubt.

We also offer the academy plus, which, beside the courses the normal academy has, also includes classes with international chefs known worldwide.

The success of iCook…

Our success is living proof of the many students we helped reach their dreams. Our classes featuring international pastry star, in particular, is what gave us international recognition.

Thanks to social network, Instagram especially, I connected and I still connect with pastry chefs worldwide, bringing the best to iCook.

What would you suggest to the new generation of chefs instructors?

To the new generation, I would say to fix your goal precisely.

Television and the many cooking shows have created a lot of confusion about a profession which is not easy at all…we see many young people not ready to make the sacrifices that this profession asks. Know what you want.

LUCA MONTERSINO, ANTONIO BACHOUR AND FRANCESCA MAGGIO

Teachings to the new generations of chefs delivering a personalized guest experience…

Every chefs is unique and different in his own way, professionally and humanly. I always give them the freedom to customize their classes as they want but, of course, they know I always expect the very best!

How hotels and restaurants can compete and win with food & beverage operations?

The food business has reached the highest levels these past few years. I think the best way to guarantee success is to try and maintain always an equilibrium of things.

What are your thoughts about Italian cuisine around the world?

Italian traditions and cuisine are two of the most precious things we have. Everywhere around the world people come to see our history but mostly, I think, to taste our food.

CEDRIC GROLET AND FRANCESCA MAGGIO

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EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN BY ALFREDO RUSSO

MASTER CLASS BY JOHAN MARTIN,

JEAN MICHEL PERRUCHON ALONG WITH FRANCESCA MAGGIO AND CHEFS AT iCOOK

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PAOLO SIMIONI

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EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN BY ALFREDO RUSSO

A

lways knew that he wanted wanted to work in the kitchen and become a chef from an early age. When he was 14, his mother allowed him to spend the summer holiday at a family friends’ hotel on Lake Garda. Here he was able to taste life in a hotel and in a kitchen for the first time. He knew that he was destined to enter this profession. He applied to the San Pietro d’Abano Hospitality School, and at the time one of the most important and famed culinary schools and was accepted.

He started working in some of the most important hotels in the world from Excelsior Hotel in Lido di Venezia to Kulm Hotel in Saint Moritz, and from here it allowed him to travel the world and gain experiences in the most sought-after hotels and restaurants. Throughout his career, Paolo brought his cooking philosophy to all five continents, including Villa Poma in Mantua, northern Italy, where he gained a Michelin Star at the prestigious Concorde Restaurant in the 90s, and was later recognized as one of London’s best Italian Chefs in London.

His philosophy, which, he carried to Forte Village is: “cooking is made of passion and rigour” a passion for serving the very best in an uncomplicated way with innovation at the forefront, cooking the very freshest ingredients, of which Sardinia is immensely rich, with passion thereby managing to give even the most experienced gastronaut an unforgettable dining experience.

PAOLO SIMIONI

COOKING MADE WITH PASSION AND RIGOUR

At Forte Village, Simioni, has brought a profound respect for sustainably grown, local ingredients: some ingredients are directly grown on site in the Resort’s vegetable and herb garden or bought from local farmers.

Part of the Resort’s undeniable appeal of which Simioni plays a vital part is that of welcoming throughout the season numerous world-famous Chefs for ‘Celebrity Chef Nights’ where clients have the chance to taste their menus.

At Forte Village for the sixth consecutive year as Executive Chef and coordinating more than 20 restaurants, organization plays a vital role in Simioni’s role, where more than 120 cooks and 20 chefs are coordinated in the 20 restaurants, where each serves a different type of cuisine. Indeed, Forte Village’s restaurants offer an incredibly varied number of choices from modern Italian to typical Sardinian to vegetarian to Japanese and Brazilian and many more, all of which are kept under strict guidelines by the Executive Chef.

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PAOLO SIMIONI

Rigour is at the basis of every recipe I create, united with a profound passion for cooking”

EX.IT catches up with Paolo Simioni…

Your cuisine is focused and inspired by a combination of fresh and quality ingredients, creative with the finest produce, creating a composition of flavours…

A particular style with a clear classic-international print, technique and sensibility when realising a dish with natural and delicious contemporary flavours – this is what I use to bring about balance on a plate. Additionally, a scrupulous attention to the joining of ingredients and the balancing of tastes in each dish. The result is represented in rich dishes, prepared with excellent ingredients and presented with style and elegance. This is my philosophy to create a perfectly balanced plate.

Your culinary philosophy, and take us through the process of creating a dish…

My culinary philosophy is that of joining together the old tradition of cooking that I learnt when I was young together with the new technologies with which we are blessed today.

Rigour is at the basis of every recipe I create, united with a profound passion for cooking and making sure my guests enjoy and will remember the dish I created for them. There is no precise process when I’m creating a new dish, as chefs are very much artists in their own right, there is a moment of inspiration and a stroke of genius that helps me create a memorable new dish.

This is true of all the best recipes I created, such as the “Risotto all’Amatriciana” where I broke the tradition of serving only pasta with the classical Italian Amatriciana sauce, and instead opted for rice. Making sure that only the finest ingredients were used, one of my big passions as far as ingredients go are tomatoes – I spend months researching which one is best for each recipe.

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EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN BY ALFREDO RUSSO

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PAOLO SIMIONI

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EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN BY ALFREDO RUSSO

Ingredients that inspire you, favourite ingredients and ingredients you were not able to master…

Any new ingredient which I find very interesting and have only recently started using it is the Purple Tomato. I very much like the colour of the skin with its rich, dusty shade of purple. Its flesh which is a deep rose is a mixture of sweet and acidic notes, never saccharine, making it perfect to enjoy fresh without cooking with a lovely extra virgin olive oil.

Being a true Italian my favourite ingredients to work with are tomatoes, extra virgin olive oil, and herbs. At Forte Village Resort we use more than 10 types of tomatoes from the typical Sardinian Camone tomato to the “cuore di bue” (beefheart tomato) to the sweet Datterino tomato. Again, with olive oils we use more than 15 types, as each one has a slightly different characteristic, making it ideal for a precise recipe. My favourite is an olive oil from Calabria, Podere La Cerza that is still harvested by hand and filtered naturally giving it intense flavours and a lovely yellow colour. Lastly, herbs are a huge passion of mine. At Forte Village Resort I had a herb garden installed that provides enough herbs for the whole resort (3,000 people at full capacity including staff!) We also have a vegetable garden where we produce all our own salad and strawberries, ensuring they are organic and fully controlled.

Not so far, true chefs are fighters and I would never give up if I couldn’t master an ingredient. The trick is to try and try again!

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PAOLO SIMIONI

Special cooking techniques or equipment you enjoy using…

I started my career at a time when cooking techniques and equipment were totally different from what we have available today. I remember cooking with copper pans and gas burners where a huge talent was needed to perfectly cook something. Nowadays, we have sous vide cooking and other new technologies that allows chefs to spend less time with these things and more time creating new recipes. I remember cooking foie gras in bain marie at the beginning of my career, where we had to make sure that the temperature was kept constant at 70 degrees centigrade, an extremely complex task! Now thanks to technology this can all be done with minimal effort.

Produce, Creativity or Technique…

All three are vital, one cannot coexist without the other inside my kitchen. Produce is key to make sure the taste of the dish is unforgettable, creativity is important so that each chef’s dish is different and innovative and technique is fundamental to ensure that the quality of the dish is at its highest.

Your greatest influence in the kitchen…

My first teachers, the first Executive Chefs I met in my career, they all helped me, my attitude as a chef and shaped my career. Ferdidando Alzetta at Hotel Excelsior in Lido di Venezia was my first greatest influence. Today my influence is the land where I am located, Sardinia, which offers a myriad of inspirational products to use in my recipes.

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EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN BY ALFREDO RUSSO

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PAOLO SIMIONI

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EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN BY ALFREDO RUSSO

Passion for the job, passion for ingredients and passion for innovation are the most important and fundamental ingredients to becoming a great chef...

What keeps you motivated?

Having been a chef for many years my motivation is my passion for the job! I could never see myself far from this job, and it is what keeps me going and keeps me motivated when managing more than 20 restaurants and more than 120 cooks.

What do you do to stay on top of the new cooking trends?

Most chefs stay on top of new cooking trends by travelling.

I am fortunate that cooking trends come to me. We have more than 30 visiting world-famous chefs each year at the resort, and therefore being able to see what they do, taste their dishes, experiment with their recipes, means that I am constantly up to date with what is happening in the culinary world around the world.

Being a chef is perceived as a glamorous profession, advice to chefs entering the kitchen for the first time‌ Travel the world, and try to gain experience with a variety of different chefs and different brigades from small Michelin starred restaurants to large resorts, in this way you are sure to be prepared for any challenge. It is also important to be humble. This is a difficult and challenging profession, where everyone learns something new every day. Lastly, passion for the job, passion for ingredients and passion for innovation are the most important and fundamental ingredients to becoming a great chef.

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ALFREDO RUSSO

Ingredients 300 ml organic milk 175 g golden caster sugar 300 ml crème fraîche 500 g peeled prickly pears Method Using tongs peel the prickly pears, cut them in halves and scoop out the fruit.

Boil the milk in a pan for a minute or till it comes to a boil, take off the heat and pour into a bowl. Add the sugar, cream and stir until the sugar has dissolved.

Put the prickly pears in a food processor and process until completely pulverized. Strain out the seeds.

Add the puréed prickly pears to the milk and cream and mix well.

Pour mixture into ice cream maker and serve the ice cream serve with fresh mint leaves.

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Bastardoni Ice Cream

by

Alfredo Russo

EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN BY ALFREDO RUSSO

PRICKLY PEARS OF SICILY If you hear food vendors at a Sicilian market shouting bastardoni - big bastards, don’t be offended, it is the season for Sicily’s prickly pears also known as bastardoni or big bastard. It is the succulent fruit of the cactus and after Mexico, Sicily is the largest producer of fichi d’India in the world.

When Columbus discovered the Americas in 1492, Sicily was under the Spanish dominions. As such, the island was amongst the first places in Europe to experience the prodigious bounty that began to flow eastwards across the Atlantic. This influx of riches from the Americas included a weird and wonderful variety of foodstuffs that would quickly become staples in Europe: potatoes, tomatoes, maize, peppers and cacao but many Sicilians would place this exotic fruit fico d’India on top of the list.

By mid-September, “bastardoni” begins to appear in the markets, the unpeeled Sicilian prickly pears are either white, red or orange in colour.

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GUIDO FIORENTINO - GRAND HOTEL EXCELSIOR VITTORIA

GRAND HOTEL EXCELSIOR VITTORIA Perched on the cliff edge of Sorrento, the inimitable Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria - a member of The Leading Hotels of the World has a history full of superlatives. Owned and operated by the Fiorentino family since 1834, the property has hosted Richard Wagner and Oscar Wilde, who enjoyed the same breathtaking views of the Bay of Naples and Mount Vesuvius as today’s guests. Ruins of Roman Emperor Augustus’ villa are said to lay beneath the property, and the past is also alive in such details as the 18th-century columns, frescoed ceilings and antiques displayed throughout.

Outside, the region’s beauty is evident in the lush gardens, filled with Mediterranean plants, citrus and olive groves. A quick elevator ride sweeps guests from the port directly to the hotel, a cool touch Wilde and Wagner could only have dreamed of.

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EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN BY ALFREDO RUSSO

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GUIDO FIORENTINO - GRAND HOTEL EXCELSIOR VITTORIA

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resident and CEO of the Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria is the fifth generation Fiorentino. The property comprises of three different buildings, each with its own name. The Fiorentino family initially invested in a new hotel, La Vittoria, the building was built in 1834 and is the oldest part of the property. La Vittoria was the first modern hotel in the area to offer private bathrooms, a link to the harbor via a funicular railway created in a Roman tunnel, and electric lighting. A purpose-built hotel rather than a converted group of villas.

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In 1887, the Fiorentino’s built La Rivale, a competitor next to La Vittoria, and between La Vittoria and La Rivale is La Favorits which is a reminiscent of a Swiss chalet. La Favorits was built to celebrate the wedding between Francesco di Borbone II, Crown Prince of the Regno delle due Sicilie, and the Bavarian Princess, and Maria Sofia of Wittelsbach.

During the days of the Second World War, the property was used as an official rest camp by the US Army, and after the war the Fiorentino’s main focus was the luxury market. 83 elegantly appointed rooms and suites evoke a welcoming, residential ambience. Each room is unique “When my mother travels and finds an antique piece of furniture or painting, she will buy for a particular room in mind. Each room has its own character” says Guido Fiorentino.

EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN BY ALFREDO RUSSO

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GUIDO FIORENTINO - GRAND HOTEL EXCELSIOR VITTORIA

JUNIOR SUITE WITH SIDE SEA VIEW

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SUITE PAVAROTTI BEDROOM

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CARUSO SIGNATURE SUITE

EX.IT catches up with Guido Fiorentino…

What can guests expect from your room and suite offerings?

Comfort, elegant with all the modern comforts. Every room offers breath-taking views of either the sea or our 5 acre garden. The most famous of them, the One of the Kind Suites, are named after celebrities who have stayed at the Excelsior Vittoria.

Guests’ needs have changed as a consequence of the increasing use modern technology and the search for tailormade experiences. What do guests expect when booking the Excelsior Vittoria?

We are constantly improving our services and paying particular attention to our most valuable clients’ needs. All the new technology amenities are available in the hotel. We are trying to combine the antique and classic atmosphere of our hotel with the modern technology. We also organize customized experiences according to client’s needs. For example, excursions in the surrounding areas, visits to the Neapolitan famous tailors to make tailor-made suit, exclusive yacht hiring to explore the wonders of our coast, pasta cooking lessons or private visits to the local winery or pasta producers.

TERRAZZO ARC

BEDROOM SUITE

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GUIDO FIORENTINO - GRAND HOTEL EXCELSIOR VITTORIA

More than ever before, cuisine expresses itself in hotel restaurants. What is the experience the Excelsior Vittoria offers?

We believe that cuisine is a big part of the experience in a trip to Italy, it is part of La Dolce Vita. We currently have three restaurants, including a Michelin starred one - Terrazza Bosquet – which offers a unique gourmet experience.

Traditional local cuisine, revisited in a modern style, can be tasted at the Orangerie Poolside bar & restaurant, while Vittoria restaurant with its frescoed ceiling and a rich breakfast buffet is one of our most renowned services. Light lunch or snacks can be enjoyed on Terrazza Vittoria while enjoying the view over Naples’s bay.

Your thoughts about Italian cuisine around the world…

Italian cuisine has grown a lot around the world, with a lot of good restaurants that are the testimony to our culture. It is becoming very well-known and consequently helps to build people’s desire to come to Italy for a full Italian experience. I think that is very a very positive trend.

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DELUXE SUITE

DALLA SUITE

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GUIDO FIORENTINO - GRAND HOTEL EXCELSIOR VITTORIA

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What solutions do you propose to the guests who long for spiritual and physical well-being?

We can organize private yoga sessions in our gardens, walks at sun rise or sunset, and hikes including the Path of Gods and more. We also have a wide array of spa treatments available to guests at our boutique SPA La Serra.

As President and CEO of Excelsior Vittoria, What have you learnt from your predecessors and your focus of success?

That’s a difficult one to answer. I feel very lucky to be the 5th generation of a hotelier family, which has influenced me a lot professionally. The experiences made by previous generations are key for the current generation to develop new projects with an outlook to the future. My focus is to give a real, unique and personal service, something which cannot be bought or measured with money, and this is sincere and full of integrity.

Our goal is to selling a service and experiences.

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ANTONINO MONTEFUSCO - GRAND HOTEL EXCELSIOR VITTORIA

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ANTONINO MONTEFUSCO

s a child he loved playing with the pots, pans and ladles which would make one think that he knew what he wanted to do when he grew up. After finishing his studies, Antonino started travelling between Switzerland and Italy, horning his culinary skills in some of the most prestigious kitchens as commis in Switzerland at the Grand Hotel du Golf and after 6 months he returned back to Italy and joined the Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria as a Kitchen staff. After a year and a half he then returned to Switzerland to the Domanine de Châteauvieux with the two Michelin Star Chef Philippe Chevrier and then decided to go back to Italy where he spent a year with Chef Heinz Beck at La Pergola, it was then when Heinz Back won his third Michelin star.

Later he moved to Ravello, at the Rossellinis, the two Michelin star restaurant headed by Pino Lavarra and finally before getting back to the Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria he was at the Michelin star Restaurant Quattro Passi in Nerano. In 2009, he returned back to the Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria, he left the hotel in 2015 and returned back in 2016 as a chef. In 2017, he was promoted as the Executive Chef, this was when he started managing the whole kitchen and the already starred Terrazza Bosquet Restaurant, and in 2017, he re-confirmed the Michelin star, which was not an easy goal.

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ANTONINO MONTEFUSCO - GRAND HOTEL EXCELSIOR VITTORIA

Antonino’s philosophy is describes as “The rediscovery of the flavours of his land”, his cuisine is a combination of fresh local produce including a variety of citrus fruits from the hotel’s own orange grove. Creating a composition of flavours which is impeccably balanced “It is not just coming up with an idea. It is bashing the idea into something that feels balanced, sounds delicious, expresses a style and must be executed well. Coming up with great dishes, and fantastic, original takes a lot of time, sometimes up to three to four months per dish. Everything starts with an idea, a stimulus.

It can be a painting, a sculpture, a colour; briefly speaking, my passions. Unconsciously I associate the stimulus with the kitchen, the ingredients, the flavours and I start to work in a maniacal way, with an eye to the culinary tradition and an eye to the culinary technique. All of a sudden I detach from “tradition” and I leave space to my imagination, my taste, my will.”

Hailing from Campania, Antonino loves the produce from his dear land and currently working on a new dish with eucalyptus flowers which brings back memories of his childhood. Unable to master Galangal, a popular ingredient in Thai food, like a ginger with intense flavour, zingy, very fragrant. He has not given up yet and hope to be able to master it sooner or later.

Produce, Creativity or Technique…

They compliment. Technique helps to fulfil the creativity.

Creativity alone is not sufficient.

For Antonino, it is very difficult to break away from tradition, the tradition of his land, for him his culinary tradition is unavoidable. It is the kitchen of his mother - the best Chef he has ever met. He likes to think that cooking is a not a trend but an evolution of the way of eating. He likes to think eating has had all over the years an evolutionary path where culture has played an important role. Personally, he takes his inspiration from art, as he loves every form of art, as art is life and life is art. Art is everywhere, even in a chef’s plate.

His advice to young chefs entering the kitchen for the first time… “Being a chef is not being a rock star. It is a very tough job which requires a lot of hard work, many sacrifices.

Every morning you need attention and patience to keep experimenting all the time. It is a passion and do not consider being a chef is simply a job.”

It the challenging goals but above all the pursuit of perfection which has taken Antonino Montefusco to these great heights.

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SALVATORE BIANCO

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SALVATORE BIANCO

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SALVATORE BIANCO

BOTTONI RIPIENI DI LINGUA CON ESTRATTO DI SCAROLE, FAGIOLI DI CONTRONE E MIDOLLO DI MANZO

Executive chef of Il Comandante, the flagship gourmet restaurant of the Romeo hotel passion for cooking was born within the family. First, studying at Vico Equense and with the help of professional courses helped him to have a well-structured and clear vision about his profession and his future. His professional career has always been a proper journey, discoveries in valuable kitchens and chefs from Capri to St. Moritz and passing through Sorrento, Chianti Senese, Port’Ercole, Milan and Rome. Each of these experiences characterized by a special identity and style of cuisine. These experiences have been crucial to his professional growth still today in his kitchen.

IL COMANDANTE

“His techniques and style are the product of what he experienced in his past, which are unique”

Originally from Torre del Greco and growing up at the foot of Mount Vesuvius, Salvatore’s dishes are refined and infused with the flavors and aromas of the Gulf of Naples and also reflect his love of blending and marrying ingredients and influences from other cultures and territories. He shares this creative process with his team as it is the product of common emotions and thoughts, which he finds is the best part of his job.

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L’ESSENZA DELLA PESCATRICE

EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN BY ALFREDO RUSSO

ASSOLO DI AGNELLO

CALAMARO DENTRO E FUORI

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SALVATORE BIANCO

RICCIOLA SCOTTATA CON FETA, CETRIOLO E MAIONESE DI COZZE

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OMBRINA CON SALICORNIA ED EMULSIONE DI OSTRICA E PERILLA

EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN BY ALFREDO RUSSO

TESTICOLI DI MANZO CON CENTRIFUGATO DI FRIARIELLI E MESSA DI PEPERONCINO

A real professional should use the right technique at the right moment, without exaggerating by using wrong techniques just to amaze...

His cuisine is expressed through plates of rare elegance, merging ingredients from the land and sea with cosmopolitan nuances and created with the highest quality ingredients, carefully prepared so as not to alter the original flavors and essences of the raw materials and nutritional value. Each plate is like art which gives different textures to the dish “I cannot explain exactly what inspires me. I can say that my grandfather was a painter and my dad a sculptor and painter too. I can say that is something in my DNA” says Salvatore.

Research, passion, culture and respect for the land, plus a strong aesthetic, give life to gourmet creations that seduce the eyes and palate, tickle the nose and even the ear.

Cooking is knowledge, he has a 360 degrees vision about the culinary world and loves discovering new ingredients around the world. Having no limits when he creates a new dish and if he has any difficulties to manage an ingredient, he does his best to know more about the ingredient.

Taste is all that matters, and goes on to say that “I think that a real professional should use the right technique at the right moment, without exaggerating by using wrong techniques just to amaze. According to my experience, the taste is what matters most.” It is more important to him that there is a perfect balance between creativity and technique.

RISOTTO IL MARE A MILANO

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SALVATORE BIANCO

“Respect and passion and everything is wisely accompanied by fascinating gastronomic rituals and sophisticated service”

His creative kitchen, thoughts is the greatest in his kitchen, evoking the charm of a voyage: the great muse is the Mediterranean, the “mare nostrum”, a melting pot of people and cultures, tastes and traditions, where he elaborates ingredients with respect and passion and everything is wisely accompanied by fascinating gastronomic rituals and sophisticated service.

One of his earliest food memories is the flavor of canned tomatoes made by my mother and tomatoes has been one of his favorite ingredient from his childhood.

“The field of cuisine today is more mindful and made of real professionals that use cutting-edge techniques and knowledge. This growth has improved the relationship between producers and customers. It is a real revolution” as Salvatore speaks about how cuisine has changed around the world.

Always updated on the latest culinary trends and never stops studying, the continued growth and the passion for his job that motivates Salvatore, he goes on to add “I love my family and I try my best to spend with them my spare time as much as I can. I am passionate about sport and fishing. I travel a lot because of my job and this is something I love the most. I think that I am lucky because I have my dream job.”

Young chefs entering the kitchen for the first time, Salvatore adds “Be always unique, follow your own thoughts and never copy the actions of everyone else, it’s not glamorous.”

MOUSSE DI LIMONE E LIMONCELLO, CON LIQUIRIZIA, CAPPERI E GELATO ALL’OLIO EVO E SALE

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CONSISTENZA DI CIOCCOLATA AI 3 PEPI

FRUTTA E VERDURA SPEZIATA CON GELATO DI BASILICO E MENTA

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RUBEN DESPORT

RUBEN DESPORT GIVIVING WINE AN EXPRESSION...

PHOTO © PIERRE MONETTA

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RUBEN DESPORT

ALAIN DUCASSE AT THE DORCHESTER - MAIN DINING ROOM

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RUBEN, THIBAULT, JEAN-PHILIPPE, ENRICO

EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN BY ALFREDO RUSSO

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riginating from Belgium with a very passionate food and wine background, Ruben’s first foray into wine began as an intern in Monaco with DUCASSE Paris at the age of 19. This experience set the tone for the years to come, and in 2010, he moved to London as Commis Sommelier at Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester.

Ruben then relocated to Paris in 2012, where he took on the role of Sommelier in Le Jules Verne, the restaurant located on the Eiffel Tower. Over the next two years, he continued to build on his knowledge, and while still at Le Jules Verne, took the opportunity to assist in numerous DUCASSE Paris establishments, including Aux Lyonnais, Benoit, and the fish restaurant, Rech.

In 2014, Ruben then returned to The Dorchester and the London restaurant scene, as Head Sommelier for the newly refurbished The Grill at The Dorchester, where he worked to create an extensive 600-bin wine list. Following that, in August 2016, Ruben joined the team of Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester as Assistant Sommelier, at the behest of then Head Sommelier, Christopher Bothwell.

Promoted to Head Sommelier of the restaurant within two years, Ruben now leads a team of 5, all of whom share his objective: delivering tailor-made and memorable service to guests. He excels in advising the best pairings from the 1,000-bin wine list created with Gerard Margeon, Ducasse Paris Executive Wine Director. This talent stems from his capacity to listen and anticipate his guests’ expectations, combined with a new-wave approach to teamwork with Executive Chef Jean-Philippe Blondet.

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RUBEN DESPORT

EX.IT catches up with Ruben Despot...

Training your palate, your sense of smell and sense of memory‌ how did you find your way to become one of the most sought after sommeliers?

I have always been intrigued by the range of aromas one can smell in a specific wine or spirit. And I strongly believe that it takes a lot of skill to obtain a wine with complexity. When tasting a wine, I always look at the details of the structure and at the message the producer wanted to share with the end consumer. Each glass of wine tells a story and speaks about a specific grape variety, a region or a philosophy. A palate is like a hard disk where you store information about all the wines you have tasted in the past. One can develop its palate by continuously making an assessment of the wines tasted. It is like adding to your experience in a way.

Take us through your training and tell when you realized your path to being a sommelier and how it helped you as a sommelier today.

When I was still in catering school in Bruges, one of the exercises we did was to sample 20 different spirits and liquors without knowing what they were. I absolutely loved that exercise and that was a confirmation to me that I wanted to become a wine specialist! Even now, in Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester, we do weekly blind tastings of wine with the young sommeliers. When one does not know what the wine is beforehand, one is less tempted to judge and looks much further into details. It is the best thing to do!

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RUBEN DESPORT

DRY AGED BEEF, ARTICHOKE AND BONE MARROW

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HALIBUT, OYSTER & SEAWEED

EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN BY ALFREDO RUSSO

“Different parts of a dish and the structure of a wine can walk hand in hand.

The level of acidity in wine is key in the pairing with food.”

How is the art of food and wine pairing evolving?

I believe that today, chefs and sommeliers dare to think outside the box. Our senses can be surprised by produce we have never heard of before. It has always been about meeting the guest expectations, but we are in a time where we can combine ingredients or wines from different countries, or even continents, which allow us to exceed those expectations.

How much of a skill is required to properly pair food and wine? Can anyone learn to do it expertly, or do you need a natural flair?

If you really want something, you can achieve anything! A skill like pairing food and wine can definitely be learned. I believe that in every job, it is nice to have a mentor, or somebody who can help you understand things. And it’s exactly the same thing with pairing food and wine.

How important is it to properly pair food and wine? Can it make or break a meal?

Wine and food can lift or fade each other’s qualities. There are some important points to keep into consideration when pairing food & wine, like the level of alcohol in the wine, the spices used by the chef, the texture or richness of the sauce, the level of acidity in the food. It is very important to taste the food in order to get an understanding of its profile.

Appearance, Aroma, Bouquet, Taste, Aftertaste and Overall Impression are some of the factors considered for a good wine - Take us through the process of pairing wine with food...

There are a few questions you should ask yourself: What is the message behind the food? Which elements of the dish does the chef want to highlight? Is the dish light and refreshing or is it rich and intense?

Different parts of a dish and the structure of a wine can walk hand in hand. The level of acidity in wine is key in the pairing with food. It helps the wine cut through richness but it can also lift flavors of certain ingredients. More body in a wine is required to support richness. And the intensity of the aromas should be in line with the ones of the food. And, delicate produce work well with wines that have more elegance or lighter intensity.

CHAMPAGNE TROLLEY

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RUBEN DESPORT

Aromas can enhance the complexity of a wine but should not be predominant; a grape is a fruit after all and it should be displayed...

You work closely with Gérard Margeon… what was the experience and how did he influence you?

I met Gérard Margeon, Executive Wine Director of Ducasse Paris, for the first time when I was in Paris. He hosts weekly wine tastings for the young sommeliers of the company in the cellar of ‘Aux Lyonnais’ and I used to attend every week. It helped me to understand his philosophy and vision. This actually also developed my vocabulary and gave me confidence to recommend a wine to guests. I now do weekly sessions with my team here at Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester as I found it so helpful for myself.

In your opinion which are the best wines and wineries in the world?

Usually, I find that the best wines and wineries are where there is a lot of maintenance in the vineyard all year round and where little intervention needs to be made in the winery.

It is the duty of the wine maker to give a wine the expression it deserves: the identity of the grape and of the region.

Secondary aromas like oak, yeast or dairy, can enhance the complexity of a wine but should not be predominant; a grape is a fruit after all and it should be displayed as such. I am always looking for balance in the structure of a wine, and finesse!

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RUBEN DESPORT

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“Anybody who has a passion for wine can become a qualified sommelier�

Can it be that a wine which is rated a gold medal winner in one competition can do badly in another competition?

It is possible but I believe the chances are very small. Wine judges are very experienced sommeliers. And as the mark is given by a panel, the score is already an average. It is very important that all aspects of a wine are discussed before the actual award is given.

What does it take to become a qualified Sommelier?

Anybody who has a passion for wine can become a qualified sommelier. There are so many titles and diplomas these days and you can get your training in any place that allows you to connect with wine. Surround yourself with the right people, be eager to learn and most important: taste wine!

Your passion to taste, learn and especially to share your expertise on wine tasting continues to grow and evolve, and as - What keeps you motivated at this point in your career?

There are 2 main reasons. The first is factual as when in the restaurant we present wine to our guests, we need to explain its characteristics. It is important to transmit our passion while doing this and it often creates a genuine interest. I love it when guests ask me questions about wine! The second is that I also have the pleasure to educate colleagues that are young and passionate and to see them grow is a big motivation!

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VINCENZO GUARINO

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VINCENZO GUARINO REINTERPRETATIONS OF TRADITIONAL SPECIALTIES

PHOTO © LIDO VANNUCCHI

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VINCENZO GUARINO

OMAGGIO A MARCHESI FAGOTTINI

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EMOZIONE DI MARE PHOTO © LUCIANO FURIA

EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN BY ALFREDO RUSSO

GNUDI SU VARIAZIONE DI ZUCCHINE ALLA SCAPECE PHOTO © LIDO VANNUCCHI

“Producing remarkable reinterpretations of traditional specialties with a modern and creative twist”

His love for the culinary art began at an early young age of 12 with his grandmother while she was preparing ragu and meatballs, looking at her preparing the food and the idea of becoming a chef was instilled. Later on he went on to study specific course at the State Professional Institute for Hotel Services and Catering in Roccaraso.

After graduating, he began to take part in training internships in Lausanne, Zurich, Naples and Milan, alongside prestigious starred chefs of national and international fame, such as Fredy Girardet, André Jaeger and Davide Oldani. In order to perfect his techniques, he took up specialized courses in pastry namely low-calorie desserts, Pandori, Panettoni and chocolate with liqueur, also preparations of risottos and finger foods.

His initial part of his career he worked in some of the best kitchens alongside Gualtiero Marchesi in Capri, Peter Wiss in Gstaad and Nazzareno Menghini in Rome; he acquired great knowledge working with these chefs, how to organize himself and how to compose the elements and flavours on a plate which later got him the title of Executive Chef at the Relais & Chateaux Bellevue Syrene in Sorrento.

LINGUINE AMMOLLICATE PHOTO © LUCIANO FURIA

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VINCENZO GUARINO

RISO CARNAROLI MANTECATO POMODORINO GIALLO ASTICE E GUANCIA DI MAIALE PHOTO © LUCIANO FURIA

With his return to Tuscany, Vincenzo took up the role as Executive Chef at Il Pievano restaurant in the castle of Spaltenna. His refined culinary skills and the extensive culinary expertise he has garnered working in Italy and abroad, Vincenzo has been able to produce remarkable reinterpretations of traditional specialties with a modern and creative twist. His cuisine has conquered the highest peaks, surprising and seducing even the most discerning palates. His culinary artistry has also led to the attainment of the much sought-after Michelin star just after 7 months.

EX.IT catches up with Vincenzo Guarino…

Your culinary philosophy and the process of creating a dish…

There is a lot of research behind creating a dish, a lot of tradition goes in it which is important to me and it’s explained in my book La Cucina Creativa Mediterranea, where I keep the flavours of my land. The inspiration comes from all my travels around the world, from all the people I meet and all of the research of product and the territory I do in every place I visit.

Ingredients that inspire you, your favourite ingredients, ingredients that you were not able to master and overrated ingredients…

I am inspired by yuzu, terre di Siena spice, lavender, tonka and the finger lime. And definitely mozzarella, tomatoes, pasta and rice, and chocolate is my favourite ingredients.

Honestly, I always had a result that satisfied me very much, of course I still have a lot to experience with new ingredients cause at 41 years old I still want grow and be knowledgeable and always try to do better, so there has not been any ingredients that I have not been able to master. In my opinion, lobster is kind of overrated as the red shrimp is much more important.

BACCALA CECI EVOLUZIONE DEL MOMENTO

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TRANCIO DI SPIGOLA CON PARMIGIANA SCOMPOSTA PHOTO © LUCIANO FURIA

LO SCAMPO INCONTRA LA PANZANELLA PHOTO © LIDO VANNUCCHI

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VINCENZO GUARINO

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PHOTO © LIDO VANNUCCHI

EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN BY ALFREDO RUSSO

RICORDI DELLA COSTIERA PHOTO © LUCIANO FURIA

Special cooking techniques or equipment you particular enjoy using…

I love to use the rooner, the vacuum, the smoker and dehydration.

Produce, Creativity or Technique…

For me, technique you learn as you travel and work in different kitchens, but the creativity is very subjective and I am very creative but I always keep my traditions, but of course produce is important. My greatest influence in the kitchen is to use Spanish techniques.

Your earliest food memory, flavors from your childhood…

My first food memory is my grandmother’s eggplants parmigiana and I can’t live without pasta.

LA MASSIMA ESPRESSIONE DEL CIOCCOLATO SULL’ENIGMA DELLA MONNALISA PHOTO © LIDO VANNUCCHI

RICOTTA E PERA PHOTO © LUCIANO FURIA

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VINCENZO GUARINO

What keeps you motivated?

I am doing this job for the past 28 years and with a lot of passion, cause without it you can’t do it, because you make a lot of sacrifices and especially with your family.

What do you do to stay on top of the new cooking trends?

With a lot of travelling and love to keep myself informed with what’s new around the world.

In the past years how has cuisine changed around the world?

It changed as now there is a lot of demand for a healthier kitchen, a lot of gluten intolerances, and now the trend is caring about these people.

Being a chef is perceived as a glamorous profession, advice to chefs entering the kitchen for the first time…

A lot of sacrifice, being humble, but also be always professional and be able to communicate. Without these points I think you can’t become a good chef.

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GUARDO IL MONDO DALL’OBLO’ PHOTO © LIDO VANNUCCHI

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VALENTINO CASSANELLI

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UNCONVENTIONAL CULINARY ARTIST

orn near Modena, land of great culinary tradition. His passion about food starts as a child as cooking tradition is really strong and permanent and watching his grandma making fresh pasta all day, remember stealing tortellini from the table and he would run eating it raw, he still recalls the flavour which he can still taste it. He grew up curious and wanted to know what is behind things, to fall in love with music, art, so he decided to go to catering school because he was sure the kitchen would be part of his future.

VALENTINO CASSANELLI

Finishing catering school, he spent two years in a traditional Italian restaurant where he learned the bases to use product and to feel the territory. At 19, his passion and hunger for knowledge took him to London to work at Mosaico where he found a big and angry brigade and learned to stay in a big kitchen. He then moved to Locanda locatelli, it was a great opportunity to study. Afeter having dinner Nobu London, and he still remembers most of the plates, the following day, he applied and spent an intense year learning fusion cuisine, “Chef Hideki Meda was telling me all the time to go inside your tradition, your roots and when you know how to manage it you can evolve and mix it to do new plates� says Valentino.

He returned to Italy and joined Cracco in Milan, for the next 3 years Valentino it was fantastic journey, learning how to collaborate, be creativity, the rigor and hierarchic mood.

Cracco and Matteo Baronetto taught him how to manage a kitchen and to think ahead, be aware of everything with a true open mind.

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VALENTINO CASSANELLI

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“On the Road menu of mine is a story of an ancient trip to Via Vandelli, the ancient way from Modena to the Tyrrhenian Sea”

Valentino then moved to Venice with Matteo Tagliapietra, the chef of Local, and Rocco Grisoni, he started to work together in the kitchen and together they managed it. In 2012, Principe forte dei Marmi became his home and in May of the same year he opened the Lux Lucis Restaurant.

His style is a free expression of Italian cuisine. Behind all his plates is his heart and soul, there is always a story, a message to tell. His cuisine highlights the purity of flavours, “I smell something, eat, touch, see or taste something, I try to keep this information and my brain start working. It’s the instinct and expression of ideas coming out in an unconscious harmony” adds Valentino.

RICCIOLA SCOTTATA,FRIGGITELLI AI CANNOLICCHI E VERDE

EX.IT catches up with Valentino Cassanelli…

Take us through the process of creating a dish…

The “On the Road” menu of mine is a story of an ancient trip to Via Vandelli, the ancient way from Modena to the Tyrrhenian Sea. Every plate represents a place on the road, a moment of the day in a hypothetical way back from sea.

Every stop is a plate with an ingredient of that small place, it is a melting pot but extremely delocalized. To do this, the team starts communicate the story, ingredients and rest is expression of ourselves with all our professional and human experience.

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VALENTINO CASSANELLI

“A restaurant experience has to be unique”

Ingredients that inspire you…

I like to travel to search for good things and to be part of different cultures. When I find something, I think is interesting to combine with my ingredients I try to find how it can be delivered. Usually I find the best ingredients in the local market as per the season.

Special cooking techniques…

I like to see food evolving so I frequently marinade, fermentation or dry aged process with many different ingredients. Opposite thinking, I like fresh extract to finish or combine plates.

Produce, Creativity or Technique…

A restaurant experience has to be unique and to do that you need several details but at the end of the day we prepare food so produce is at the centre of it and to be unique it should be elevated with a soul in a creativity way.

Your greatest influence in the kitchen…

Being a cook is a life style and you can be influenced with your plates, I love Italian tradition, ingredients and flavor but in my kitchen there is always different cooking method, sometimes ancient sometimes technical and modern which is present in my Italian cuisine.

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CUORE DI VITELLO CON CHINOTTO E ERBE DI CAMPO

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VALENTINO CASSANELLI

GREEN POWER PISELLI E PISELLI

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Your earliest food memory, flavors from your childhood‌ I remember the pork stew my mother used to make and for that one of my plates is with pork short ribs cooked in milk and dehydrated carrots with Szechuan pepper.

What keeps you motivated?

I still have a lot of thing to communicate and many plates to do. This is just the beginning!

In the past years, how has cuisine changed around the world?

Cuisine is changing fast as the world changes constantly.

There is no limit, it is easier to travel and learn, techniques are advanced, and people are more curious and have more knowledge. Guest and chefs start to be very aware and that is a great point for food culture.

Being a chef is perceived as a glamorous profession, advice to chefs entering the kitchen for the first time‌ Being a chef is hard, really hard, one needs to have a lot of passion, dedication. However, if the job become a way of life and you love it, then it is the best job ever, making people happy is something special, a kind of magic.

PICCIONE GLASSATO CON LICI E POLPO

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ANTONIO MATTIUSSI

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A ANTONIO MATTIUSSI

ITALIAN FOOD DELICACIES, IT’S AN ARTIST OF TASTE! n inviting journey to the origins of Italian culinary culture and Antonio Mattiussi, takes us through Food Arte, which collects Italian forgotten flavours and recipes whiles collaborating with passionate craftsmen who keep alive local culinary traditions and renews ties with antique values of Italy. The secret in search for artistic quality and fusion between good and the beautiful, and tradition is brought into the future as an answer for the most curious traveller and for those who are satisfied with a modern lifestyle.

Food Arte is a wonderful gastronomic journey through the Italian culinary tradition, a journey lead by the respect for the territory and for the good taste; it represents the revival of simple flavors and yet refined, of traditional recipes, pillar of the gastronomic and cultural Italian patrimony known worldwide.

It is the perfect combination of tradition, art, style, culture, fashion and design: a new way of presenting our culinary history, projected into the future by a modern and very innovative packaging, able to put the Italian taste in the spotlight of this huge and yet small global market. For example of Brand Internationalization, a process where the English language becomes a business tool which holds the capability of transmitting the value of cultural origins without destroying it, no matter of what country it refers to. The English language meant no longer as standard communication tool, but a global way to convey the value of our identity and able to enhance the cultural differences

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The idea behind Food Arte was very simple: in a world where modern orientations like globalization, standardization, markets and trends concentration have become guidelines for our everyday life and our communication, we can’t give up on our roots, on our history. Somebody wrote: “We are what we eat”, indeed and, “Italy masters a “thousand-year old” culinary tradition, part of our inestimable culture; Food Arte is the result of the real and typical product research which aims at protecting the artisan, our original recipes and gastronomic patrimony, and moreover, Food Arte is the result of a modern, simple but classy packaging, created to be easily recognizable. Think about a perfect way to know Italy while sitting at your table, to experience the Italian Excellencies as not simple products selection, but as a gastronomic presentation of “Planet Italy”, the Ambassador of a new way of expressing culinary art, through which art, history, style and design become one and only unforgettable experience” adds Antonio.

EX.IT catches up with Antonio Mattiussi…

The finest food gallery making Food Arte products special…

The protection of our SMEs and their opportunities through Food Arte to become known worldwide and to safeguard the quality of the products selected throughout our national territory.

An excellent line of Italian products, which represents Italy throughout the world. What does being authentic mean to you?

I believe that authentic means “real”; think about it: truth doesn’t need frills; the truth is simple, and my constant research of simplicity has been my keyword to Food Arte’s creation and its development.

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“A perfect way to know Italy while sitting at your table, to experience the Italian Excellencies as not simple products selection, but as a gastronomic presentation”

EXTRAORDINARY ITALIAN BY ALFREDO RUSSO

What makes a successful producer / manufacturer today?

The enhancement of own territory and above all the ability of spreading its awareness globally; the capability of conveying our cultural differences meant as varieties, in respect of others’ values and by the constant research of modernization to be up with the times.

Our innovation consists of the projection of our history into the future; a projection which employs a common but powerful language, and which has one and only purpose: the mere awareness of Planet Italy.

Suggestions to the new generation of producers…

The constant research of quality. It’s a long and hard process, but it’s the only way that guarantees the conveyance of our patrimony Respecting high quality standards means having efficient control systems and investing in innovation. How important is research to you?

Very. Despite of being a small enterprise Food Arte keeps looking for global hints in terms of production and above all of trends, way of consumptions and sustainability.

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Can you introduce us the different Food Arte products?

Food Arte is a “genuine collector” with a selection of hundreds of products originated from several Italian regions flow into.

The ‘regional identity’ of each product is the supporting criteria Food Arte is based on. From sweet to savoury, from pastes to creams and mustards: a product becomes part of our Finest Italian Food Gallery if: It is selected in the region where it historically comes from (its recipes as well), 90% of the cases.

100% natural, its producer receive a regional or national or international recognition at least once and producers are part of SME’s, in the name of the “regional identity” which Food Arte’s core is based on.

The “Excellence” keeps improving itself, we only need a “common code” to transmit this concept to the different populations spread all over the world and to help us understanding theirs.

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Food Arte is all about Italian taste. How is it possible to satisfy the modern consumer?

Modernity is the projection of history into the future. Italy represents one of the main producers of typical products in terms of variety, worldwide! Italy boasts about 5600 products categorized as D.O.C, P.G.I and D.O.P., apart from all the product varieties part of our gastronomic traditions but didn’t have the mediatic attention to make themselves known. I am so confident that Italian food is loved by all, very much all!

And we do have it!

Food Arte represents Italian taste and creativity worldwide, what are the products chefs use and what are they looking for when using your product? tra virgin olive oil, without any doubts! One of the simplest ingredients but the most complex one at the same time. A chef knows well the difference between the extra virgin olive oil and an excellent one; excellence and pursuit of perfection are given by the research of small details which all together turn the good into excellent. I’m pretty sure that a good chef would appreciate one of our extra virgin olive oil, 100% Italian of course!

Your thoughts about Italian cuisine around the world...

A good and bad news as my thoughts: the good news is that the fame of the Italian gastronomy is very well known worldwide, since so many have been “riding the waves of the typical features” of our cuisine, for so many years. The bad news is that authenticity and genuineness have been given up, showcasing Italian cuisine that, actually, it is not!

Food Arte’s purpose is to reinvigorate old values which have made Italy a great culinary country, keeping always in mind the future.

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