a u g u s t 2 013
the complete guide to go
Urban Escapes Soak up some sun at Hong Kong’s accessible beaches
Local foodie tour affordable art Hong Kong’s very own winery
where Hong Kong 8.13 ®
06 Hot Dates Hong Kong’s hottest concerts, shows and events
18 art + culture Top galleries and our pick of what’s happening
26 dining Your A-Z of the best eats in town
36 Drinks Our favorite places to sip a cocktail
52 Walking Tour Explore a neighborhood on foot
54 Maps Kowloon & Hong Kong Island
Also inside 40 Shops + services From mega malls to local designers 46 NAVIGATE Fast facts and essential info
58 30 THINGS WE LOVE Hong Kong’s all-time top spots and best experiences
10 life’s a beach Chill out at an urban beach
20 Trade Up Stock up on affordable collectors’ items
on the cover a u g u s t 2013
at Hong Kong’s newest auction house
the complete guide to go
46 eat like a local Find out where the locals go for dim sum via a fun walking tour Urban Escapes Soak up some sun at Hong Kong’s accessible beaches
LocaL foodie tour affordabLe art Hong Kong’S very own winery
There’s plenty to do on Cheung Chau island on a hot summer’s day—and lying on the beach is one of them. The best bit? It’s just a ferry ride away. For a full list of Hong Kong’s most accessible beaches, see p.10. (Photo courtesy of the Hong Kong Tourism Board)
wheretraveler.com The website from the editors of Where Magazine. Get all the latest city buzz from our experts—info only the locals know.
August 2013 I WHERE hong ko n g 3
maga z ine
On the web: www.where-hongkong.com HK Magazine Media group acMG | ADVERTISING & CIRCULATION General MANAGER & Publisher Greg Crandall ADVERTISING director Jan Cheng Advertising Executives Ivor Ngo, Maggie Chong Advertising Coordinator Sharon Cheung Marketing MANAGER James Gannaban Marketing & Circulation Executive Charmaine Mirandilla REGIONAL IT SYSTEMS Manager Derek Wong
HK | EDITORIAL EDITOR-in-chief Zach Hines EDITOR Adele Wong CONTRIBUTORS Lydia Sung, Catherine Lim, Jee Hee Lim, Catherine Ren, Kate Springer, Sean Hebert
HK | PRODUCTION PRODUCTION MANAGER Blackie Hui ART DIRECTOR Pierre Pang Senior graphic designer Mike Hung graphic designer Iris Mak
MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS HK | executive PRESIDENT Donna W. Kessler Vice president of operations Angela E. Allen general manager, where maps Christopher Huber
mvp | national sales VICE PRESIDENT, NATIONAL SALES Rick Mollineaux DIRECTOR OF PARTNERSHIPS & NATIONAL DIGITAL SALES Bridget Duffie NATIONAL SALES COORDINATOR David Gately
MORRIS COMUNICATIONS Chairman & ceo William S. Morris III PRESident William S. Morris IV
mvp | cREATIVE CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER Haines Wilkerson Senior Regional Editorial Director Margaret Martin design DIRECTOR Jane Frey photography director Susan Strayer CREATIVE COORDINATOR Beverly Mandelblatt
mvp | manufacturing & technology director of manufacturing Donald Horton e-mails for all of the above: firstname.lastname@MORRIS.com
Room 301, 3/F, Hollywood Centre, 233 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, Hong Kong Phone: 2850-5065 Fax: 2543-1880 Published by where Hong Kong Publishing Ltd., an HK Magazine Media Group Company. Printed by Paramount Printing Company Limited, 3 Chun Kwong St., Tseung Kwan O Industrial Estate, New Territories. where makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. where is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications-Where Magazine. ®
In Hong Kong, where magazine is pleased to be a member of: ®
TAI HANG 路 PACIFIC PLACE 路 CANTON ROAD WWW.MSBSCAKERY.HK
hot dates Hong Kong
August 31 Swoon Song Legendary Japanese rock band Anzen Chitai has released 54 albums since its debut in 1982. Celebrating its 30th anniversary, the living legends of J-pop will be performing live at HKCEC at the end of August. 8:15pm. Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, 1 Expo Drive, Wan Chai, 2835-6688. $380-980 from www.hkticketing.com.
6 W HERE HONG KONG I a ugust 2013
hot dates August 8-11
August 9-11 Spike Down
Singing in the Dark
Get ready for lots of action in the sand this summer. Teams from China (rank 5), Turkey (rank 7), Argentina (rank 18) and Czech Republic (rank 26) will compete in six separate sessions at the FIVB (Federation Internationale de Volleyball) Volleyball World Grand Prix. August 9, 6pm, 8:30pm; August 10-11, 1:15pm, 3:45pm. Hong Kong Coliseum, 9 Cheong Wan Rd., Hung Hom. August 9-10: $120, $300; August 11: $60, $120, $300, $600 (tickets are daily pass) at 2734-9009 or urbtix.cityline.com.hk.
What a Circus
Cirque du Soleil returns to Hong Kong this year together with the Estate of Michael Jackson. Currently touring in Asia, The Immortal World Tour features the Canadian circus arts performers incorporating the King of pop’s music and dance into their mesmerizing performances. Aug 23, 8pm; Aug 24-25,
Owl City, also known as Adam Young, got his first taste of stardom when he began uploading videos of his performances to Myspace from his parents’ basement in Minnesota. Two indie albums later, he was picked up by record label execs, and a full-length electropop album was released in 2009. His hit “Fireflies” reached number one across US, UK and Canadian charts.
4pm, 8pm. AsiaWorld-Expo, Sky Plaza Rd., Chek Lap Kok. $288-1,288 from www. hkticketing.com.
7pm. Rotunda 2, Kowloonbay International Trade & Exhibition Centre, 1 Trademart Drive, Kowloon Bay. $380 from www.hkticketing.com.
Now in its fourth year, Dialogue in the Dark’s “Concert in the Dark 2013” is ready to take you on another musical adventure. Led by a team of visually impaired professionals, you will experience music made by Hong Kong artists—including Hins Cheung, Fiona Sit and Ivana Wong (pictured left to right)—in a world of complete darkness. August 8, 7:30 pm; August 10-11, noon, 3:30pm, 7:30pm. Rotunda 3, 6/F, Kowloon International Trade & Exhibition Centre, 1 Trademart Drive, Kowloon Bay. $480, $780, $1500 at all HMV stores, or www.concert-in-the-dark.hk.
Too Cool for School Hong Kong-style silent comedy “Detention” is back for a second round since its debut in December 2011. Set around an afterschool detention, the comedy depicts how humor and joy can solve any conflict. Featuring three naughty boys, a beautiful classmate and a fiery teacher performing acrobatics, dance and percussion. Shows every day except August 6 and 13. Shouson Theatre, Hong Kong Art Centre, 2 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai. $190, $260 at Tom Lee Outlets or Urbtix, 2734-9009.
august 2013 I WHERE HONG KONG 7
hot dates Hong Kong August 11
I'm Lovin' It
Following a concert in Macau late last year, the longstanding Aussie soft-pop-rock duo Air Supply is back again to perform at AsiaWorld-Expo. Expect lots of nostalgic ballads and feel good melodies. 8pm. Hall 10, AsiaWorld-Expo,
Linda Chung, a Canadian-born singer and actress based in Hong Kong, will be holding her debut concert, “Love Love Love.“ The concert will feature songs from her five-year career as a singer as well as costumes styled by Chung herself. Limited editions of concert merchandise including T-shirts and caps will be sold exclusively at the venue.
Chek Lap Kok. $480-880 from www.hkticketing.com.
US alt-rock legends The Smashing Pumpkins are coming to town. Corgan and his troops are set to take the stage this summer at AsiaWorld-Expo. The Chicagoan four-piece was established in the late 1980s and plays an eclectic mix of genres ranging from heavy metal to gothic and punk rock. They’ve just started writing their new album, so you might even get a sneak preview or two. 8pm. Hall 10, AsiaWorld-Expo, Chek Lap Kok. $580-780 from www.hkticketing.com.
8:15pm. Rotunda 3, 6/F, Kowloonbay International Trade & Exhibition Centre, 1 Trademart Drive, Kowloon Bay, 3907-0486. $480 from www.hkticketing.com and Tom Lee outlets.
Making a Splash Hard Rock’s notorious Splash parties continue, featuring plenty of poolside fun. 4pm. Hard Rock Hotel Macau, City of Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau, (+853) 8868-3338. $450 from www.cityofdreamsmacau.com.
All You Can Eat
A Thousand Songs
Loosen your belt for the Hong Kong Food Expo. Sample stall after stall of delectable treats, from instant noodles to Michelin-starred dishes. August 15-18, 10am-10pm; August 19, 10am-6pm. Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, 1 Expo Drive, Wan Chai.
Ah, the early 2000s, when Linkin Park ruled the nu-metal world. Shinoda and co. have won two Grammys and sold over 50 million albums to date—and they’re still going. Their Hong Kong concert is at AsiaWorld-Arena, and the profits are being partially donated to the Music For Relief charity in aid of disaster recovery.
$25, $40 from www.hkticketing.com and designated 7-Eleven and Circle K stores.
8pm. AsiaWorld-Arena, Sky Plaza Rd., Chek Lap Kok, 3606-8828. $288-788 from www.hkticketing.com.
First Fiddle Aussie band Ne Obliviscaris plays progressive, “violin-laden” metal. The six-piece will take to the stage at Hidden Agenda. 8:30pm. Hidden Agenda, 2A, Wing Fu Industrial Building, 15-17 Tai Yip St., Ngau Tau Kok, 9170-6073. $150 in advance from White Noise Records, Room 1901, 19/F, Workingview Commercial Building, 21 Yiu Wa St., Causeway Bay or $180 at the door.
8 W HERE HONG KONG I a ugust 2013
HK$20 off on Madame Tussauds Hong Kong regular-priced adult admission ticket + HK$400 Cash coupon
Hot events. Cool place.
All the excitement of the Hong Kong Summer Spectacular is back!
From now until the end of August, benefit from fabulous cut-price tickets and some excellent coupon offers for awesome gifts offered by the city’s theme parks and attractions. For details of individual offers, please refer to the 2013 Hong Kong Summer Spectacular Event Guide or visit DiscoverHongKong.com/ HKSS. Don’t miss all the action in Asia’s world city from 21 June to 31 August 2013.
Get $20 off on regular-priced adult admission ticket at Madame Tussauds Hong Kong! Don’t forget to grab the summer cash coupon when you visit the attraction and exclusively enjoy a range of attractive deals on The Peak with discounts valued at over HK$400! madametussauds.com/hongkong The image shown in this magazine depicts wax figure created and owned by Madame Tussauds.
Limited edition lucky bag at Hong Kong Wetland Park
This information is correct as of June 2013, but is subject to change without prior notice. Hong Kong Tourism Board (HKTB) disclaims any liability for the quality or fitness for purpose of third-party products or services; or for any errors or omissions. The HKTB is not a supplier of the offers and shall not be responsible for any liabilities in relation thereto. In case of disputes, the decision of the third parties providing the above offers shall be final. *Terms and Conditions apply.
This summer, indulge your senses at Hong Kong Wetland Park, where a variety of lotuses and water lilies are at their luxuriant best in the park’s soothing freshwater marshes. Don’t forget to get a limited edition lucky bag at the Hong Kong Wetland Park’s Information Counter while you’re there. wetlandpark.gov.hk
15 percent off on Noah’s Ark admission tickets
10 percent off on Ocean Park admission tickets
Creative games make for a fantastic summer at Noah’s Ark. Just present your passport and enjoy a 15 percent discount on a maximum of four admission tickets. noahsark.com.hk
Energise and cool off from the summer heat this year with wet and wild thrills at Ocean Park’s Summer Splash from June 29 to Aug 25! Have a blast with Hong Kong’s first indoor glow-in-the-dark multimedia zone, which features techno music, UV lighting, bubbles and a water maze. Get a 10 percent discount coupon on Ocean Park daytime admission tickets from Hong Kong Summer Spectacular Event Guide. oceanpark.com.hk
Special gift at the sky100 Hong Kong Observation Deck
10 percent off at Ngong Ping 360 souvenir shop
You’re in for a unique 3D viewing experience at sky100 Hong Kong Observation Deck at the top of the ICC tower. It places you in an optical illusion where you can catch all-round amazing views of the city. Claim a special gift from sky100 between July 1 and August 31 by presenting Summer Spectacular coupon. sky100.com.hk
Discover the true essence of Kung Fu when masters of the Shaolin and Jeet Kune Do styles demonstrate their unique skills live on stage at Ngong Ping 360. Visit and enjoy a 10 percent discount on Ngong Ping 360’s souvenir shop-branded merchandise (excluding discounted items). np360.com.hk
Life’s a Beach Hong Kong’s urban beaches are just a bus or ferry ride away. By Lydia Sung and Catherine Lim
n Hong Kong, August is the perfect month for some fun in the sun. While the city’s predominantly known for its towering skyscrapers, there are also plenty of accessible beaches that are just a bus or MTR ride away. Get away from the hustle and bustle of the city, and soak up some healthy rays at one of our urban beaches while the temperatures are still blisteringly hot.
Cheung Chau Beach (Tung Wan) With plenty of simple holiday houses and bed & breakfasts dotting the island, scenic Cheung Chau is an easy-breezy weekend getaway. Tung Wan beach is just one of the many highlights here. The beach is a long stretch of fine sand, and on a nice sunny day, you’ll be able to see junk boats docked offshore in the turquoise waters. Since the waves are generally very calm, the beach is especially family-friendly. Stake out your spot on the sand and get some quality sunbathing in, or get a rally going by the volleyball nets. Cheung Chau’s chock-full of seafood restaurants and streetside snack stalls, so rest assured you’ll never go hungry. Indulge in spirally potato chips on a stick, or sit down by the harbor and dig into a plate of soy sauce-steamed seabass at one of the alfresco local diners. Facilities: Changing rooms, washrooms and showers are all available at the beach. How to get there: Take the ferry from Central Pier 5 for a 55-minute journey.
12 WHERE HONG KONG I August 2013
Stanley Main Beach Tucked away on the southern tip of Hong Kong island, Stanley is quite a popular spot for tourists. With a proper little stretch of beach, alfresco cafes, streetside pubs as well as an outdoor market, Stanley makes for an effortless day trip. The Stanley Main Beach is also the right place for thrill-seekers, since it comes with a water sports center where you can rent out canoes and sailing dinghies. Although the beach itself is relatively small, the aquaish seawater and the fine sand along the shore should not disappoint. In need of a snack? Look for a small food outlet overlooking the coast that specializes in Italian delicacies and snacks like pizzas. The Pizza-Q kiosk also sells a range of beach toys and equipment, in case you come under-prepared. The Stanley Market right in the heart of the district consists of a cluster of outdoor stalls selling clothes, furnishings, local specialties and bizarre items like bejeweled lingerie. Then thereâ€™s Murray House, a colonial-style establishment that had been moved brick by brick from Central, where it was originally located, to the Stanley waterfront. The former British Army barracks is now a dining and entertainment complex. Stanley Market
Facilities: one changing room, one lifeguard station on the beach, barbecue grills and water sports facilities. How to get there: Take buses 6, 6A, 6X, 66, 260 (Express) from Exchange Square at Central. Itâ€™s roughly 35 to 45 minutes away.
Murray House August 2013 I WHERE HONG KONG 13
Big Wave Beach
Big Wave Bay Beach
Barbecue pits at Shek O Beach
Shek O Beach
Shek O Beach Grab a beach umbrella, rent some surfboards, and make it a nice long day at Shek O beach. As one of Hong Kong’s more popular summer stomping grounds, things can get hectic and crowded on the weekends, so remember to come early to claim your spot on the sand. The waves at Shek O are gentle, making the beach particularly family-friendly. This beach is relatively sizeable, and besides the usual swim and surf, beachgoers can also do some Hong Kongstyle barbecuing on the premise. Pitch forks for skewering sausages and charcoal grills 14 WHERE HONG KONG I August 2013
are easily available from one of the many vendors on site. Shek O village, just beyond the beach, is packed with local restaurants serving everything from roast goose to fried rice. Facilities: Facilities here are relatively decent and large, with changing rooms, washrooms and outdoor showers right at the back of the beach. Four lifeguards are available from April to October. How to get there: Take Bus 9 from Shau Kei Wan MTR Station and get off at the last stop. From there, it’s a five-minute walk to the beach.
The secluded location of Big Wave Bay beach might make it less family-friendly, but it’s perfect for tanners and surfers. Separated from neighboring Shek O beach by a 40-minute walk that passes through the Shek O golf course, the beach is nevertheless worth the trek— you’ll be rewarded with fine white sand and turquoise waters. The relaxing and laidback atmosphere of this picture-perfect beach makes it hard to believe you are actually in Hong Kong. The beach can also accommodate overnight camping, if you want to plan for more than one day of fun in the sun. Watch the waves break, catch a breathtaking sunset, and surf to your heart’s content before pitching your rented tent for a lie-down under the stars. The waves can occasionally get rough, so make sure you are a strong swimmer and are accompanied—there is only one lifeguard available at the beach, and only from April to October. Local restaurants nearby provide plenty of food, as well as surfboards and camping equipment for rent. Facilities: Changing rooms, washrooms and showers are set right at the back of the beach, making it convenient for beachgoers and campers. How to get there: Take Bus 9 from Shau Kei Wan MTR Station and get off at the Big Way Bay Beach stop. From there it’s a 10-minute walk to the beach.
Repulse Bay Beach Looking for a romantic nighttime stroll? Wait till the sun sets, then head straight to Repulse Bay. Despite being surrounded by some of the most prestigious residential buildings in town, the meticulously kept Repulse Bay beach has a kind of oasis-in-the-city, resortlike atmosphere. And even though it’s an artificial beach, it’s still known for its soft sands and clear waters. Trees are carefully arranged on the premises to derive plenty of shade over the sand when the temperatures get hot. The charming scenery has made Repulse Bay one of the most popular tourist attractions in Hong Kong. If you’re looking for a short stay or a shopping break, there’s also The Repulse Bay,
a colonial-style commercial/serviced apartment complex located right opposite the beach. Also part of the complex are two gourmet restaurants serving fine foods: The Verandah and Spices. With green lawns, vintage décor and a colonial atmosphere, The Verandah’s an ideal place for some traditional English-style afternoon tea. Since Repulse Bay is on the top of many tourists’ lists, the beach may get crowded, especially on weekends. You might want to consider coming on a weekday or during non-peak hours to avoid the crowds. Facilities: Two changing rooms, five lifeguard stations, one kiosk and a first-aid station. How to get there: Take buses 6, 6A, 6X or 260 (Express). It’s about a 30-minute ride from Exchange Square at Central.
Deep Water Bay Beach
If a lazy afternoon of tanning, reading and enjoying chilled drinks at the waterfront appeals to you, then definitely give Deep Water Bay a try. Many consider Deep Water Bay a more relaxed, laid-back option among Hong Kong’s beaches. Located in a relatively quiet neighborhood, the surrounding area is mainly residential and there are only two food outlets—Coco Thai and Life’s a Beach—to provide hospitality to the beach’s patrons. Off into the distance, you will find the lush hills of southern Hong Kong island—and, perched on top of those, the silhouette of a colorful rollercoaster courtesy of Ocean Park. Deep Water Bay is, in fact, very close to the city. It is a mere 20-minute ride away from Central, and the contrast is quite remarkable as you transition from skyscrapers to soft sand. Somehow, the beach is also surprisingly clean: both the sand and water quality can compare with beaches in harder-to-reach locales. Facilities: Three changing rooms with showers, two kiosks, one first-aid station, four lifeguard stations on the beach, barbecue grills.
The Verandah 16 WHERE HONG KONG I August 2013
How to get there: Take buses 6, 6A, 6X or 260 (Express). It’s a 20-minute ride from Exchange Square in Central.
Deep Water Bay
NO RULES, JUST RIGHT. ‘GO OUTBACK’ TONIGHT! Barbecue pits
Causeway Bay 2/F, JP Plaza, 22-36 Paterson St. Reservations: 2881 8012 Wanchai 1/F, De Fenwick, 8-12 Fenwick St. Reservations: 3101 0418
Whampoa Shop 3A, G/F, Site 4, Whampoa Garden, Hunghom Reservations: 2766 2823
Tuen Mun Tsuen Wan
Whampoa Tsim Sha Tsui Wanchai
Tsim Sha Tsui East Taikoo Causeway Bay
Tsim Sha Tsui Shop 1, Level 2, 26 Nathan Rd. Reservations: 3741 1728
Tsim Sha Tsui East Shops 23-28, Upper Ground Floor, Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Rd. Reservations: 2311 7800 Tsuen Wan Shops 3-5, Level 2, Discovery Park Shopping Centre, 398 Castle Peak Rd. Reservations: 2940 0682 Taikoo Shops G9-G10, G/F, Kornhill Plaza, 1 Kornhill Rd. Reservations: 2560 8246 Tuen Mun Shop 2016-2017, 2/F, Phase 1, Tuen Mun Town Plaza Reservations: 2426 3918
August 2013 I WHERE HONG KONG 17
Dress Up Hoping to make a stunning impression? Look no further than Shanghai Tang’s eveningwear collection. Limited editions of beautifully crafted cheongsam— or Mandarin-collared dresses—are featured in the recently launched Imperial Collection. Think pleated lace, delicate silk and meticulous detailing. The collection also features accessories like python-skin cuffs and glamorous embroidered clutches. 1 Duddell St., Central, 2525-7333.
Art+culture | The Guide
A Fair Trade
Steve Freeman is the founder of Gresham’s, a middle-market auction house that stocks everything from fine wines to carpets to tableware. He tells Adele Wong why he thinks Hong Kong is ripe for the concept. Where: What inspired you to start Gresham’s? Steve Freeman: A friend was telling me his experience trying to sell stuff at auction in Hong Kong. He was having a bit of a miserable time doing it. I started thinking to myself, I can actually run that kind of a business. I then started to explore it, and learn more about how it worked in Hong Kong. I realized after doing quite a bit of research that there was a huge gap in the market. And the gap is what we’re trying to fill. The gap is stuff that’s too good for a garage sale— though people here don’t have garages— but not good enough to go to Christie’s. W: Where did the name Gresham’s come from? SF: I am distantly related to Sir Thomas Gresham. My mother’s mother was a Gresham. And she comes from this family. The reason I picked that name [for our auction house] and picked him as mascot for the company is because he did something quite close to what I’m doing. He lived in the 1500s, and he, among other things, founded the Royal Exchange in London. The Royal Exchange was basically the first retail venue in London all under one roof, what we would now call a shopping mall. He found that idea in Europe, brought it to London, and built a huge hall. Hundreds of merchants could go into the hall and engage in buying and selling. W: What’s up for grabs at the auction house? SF: We sell everything. We’re going to sell furniture, fine art, ceramics, silver—and
many other categories like watches, jewelry, wine and luxury goods. W: What’s the price range of most items at Gresham’s? SF: We’re aiming for stuff that’s between $1,000 and $100,000. That’s what I would consider to be the middle market. We could sell things for somewhat more than that, but eventually you start getting into Christie’s and Sotheby’s territory and they could do a very good job handling something worth $400k or $500k. W: How do the auctions work? SF: People come in and they have things they want to sell. We look at it, we evaluate it, we tell them what we think it could sell for. If they agree then they consign the item to us. And then we agree to sell it on their behalf. On the day of the auction, people who are interested in buying show up, register, get a paddle, sit down and observe. If they like something then they bid. You don’t have to bid. You want to sit down and watch the auction, you can. People can come on Saturday, look at the stuff, and think, “This is great, I’ll stay,” or “There’s nothing here I like,” then go next door to Horizon Plaza. We’re aiming for 200 to 300 items per auction. We can do about 100 things per hour. It’s fast, not slow. To be honest, I did the first auction in just over 90 minutes and someone in the audience complained and said it was too slow.
W: Do you have any tips for bidders? SF: First of all, you should always collect things you like. If you don’t really love it, don't buy it. The sensible advice is to tell people to buy the most expensive thing they can afford. Because usually the better quality things are the things that preserve the most value. Something that’s chipped or broken or cracked or scratched is just not worth as much. The other advice is to just start. You’re only going to learn by doing it. If you’re interested in collecting, start collecting. It doesn’t have to be an expensive hobby. W: What are some of the more memorable items that have passed through the auction house? SF: We’ve had some quite unusual items come through already. We have some very unusual things from Asia, for example, an Islamic circumcision knife. But in general,most of what we’re selling is the basic stuff you would put in your house. 408 Harbour Industrial Centre, 10 Lee Hing St., Ap Lei Chau, 2552-1887, www.greshams.com.hk.
Check out Gresham’s upcoming auctions: August 17 Themed Summer Sale August 31 Carpets, Rugs and Textiles Doors open at noon. Auction starts at 3pm. Viewings available on Thursdays and Fridays 10am-6pm.
You’ll find some of the best art and antique galleries in town along Hong Kong Island’s Hollywood Road.
20 W HERE HONG KONG I August 2013
Art+culture | The Guide
Cultural Awakening Explore China’s post-Mao era through a series of thought-provoking contemporary artwork. By Sean Hebert
Light Before Dawn: Unofficial Chinese Art 1974-1985 Out of the chaos of Mao's Cultural Revolution emerged three influential contemporary art groups—Wuming (No Name), Xingxing (Stars) and Caocao (Grass Society)—that shared a commitment to push Chinese art past the confines of Socialist Realism. While each took markedly different
approaches aesthetically, their pieces all elevate the value of personal creativity and expression to the forefront, and are a time capsule of a post-Mao era that is seldom explored from an artistic perspective. This exhibition features over 100 works from 21 artists, including Zhang Wei, Ma Desheng, Ma Kelu and Ai Weiwei. Through Sep 1. Asia Society Gallery, 9 Justice Drive, Admiralty, 2103-9511.
porcelain and restored 16th- to 18th-century Chinese furniture. Rare and authentic stone and bronze sculptures and buddhas, and terracotta sculptures from China and SouthEastern Asia are found in the viewing galleries, plus there are over 200 paintings in the extensive ancestral scroll collection. Open daily 9:30am-6:30pm. 53-55 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-6848, email@example.com.
ALTFIELD GALLERY — Altfield Gallery deals in Southeast Asian sculpture and decorative arts, antique maps and topographical prints relating to Asia, as well as Chinese, Tibetan and Caucasian carpets. Altfield also produces a range of reproduction furniture and accessories in the Chinoiserie style. Shipping available. Shop 248-9, 2/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2537-6370, www.altfield.com.hk. ARCH ANGEL ANTIQUES — The three-story shop houses large collections of Qing dynasty 22 W HERE HONG KONG I August 2013
ARCH ANGEL GALERIE “V” — This large gallery, just across from Arch Angel Antiques, is a must for collectors and connoisseurs interested in early stone sculpture and 16th to 18th-century Chinese furniture. These fine early examples are shown in original condition and exquisitely reconditioned by an expert furniture specialist. 70 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-6828, antiques@ archangelantiques.com.hk. CHINA ART — This leading restorer and dealer in fine Asian antique furniture and artifacts holds frequent exhibitions and has published two books, “Antiques in the Raw” and “Regional Furniture.” Go to the website to see what’s in stock, then make an appointment to visit the warehouse. Unit 26-27, 15/F, Tower A, Southmark, 11 Yip Hing St., Aberdeen, 2542-0982, www.chinaart.com.hk.
DRAGON CULTURE — Specializes in dinosaur egg fossils, Han Dynasty terracotta, Tang sculptures and Ming porcelain figures. 231 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2545-8098, www.dragonculture.com.hk. JOYCE GALLERY — Specializing in ancient utensils and sculptures from across China, Joyce displays a collection of antiquities dating to the Tang dynasty, including ancient bronzes, stone carvings, gold and silver ware, jade, and pottery. It guarantees its descriptions of the period and history of its items and offers a full refund if the purchased item does not match the description. Shop 1, 123 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2545-1869, www.joycegallery.com. OI LING ANTIQUES — Oi Ling operates an outlet in Central, a warehouse in Aberdeen, and a workshop in China where skilled workers restore furniture using traditional techniques. The Hollywood Road showroom houses a large collection of furniture from the 17th and 18th centuries, as well as authenticated pottery items and sculptures dating as far back as the Neolithic era. Repair, restoration and shipping available. 58 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2815-9422, www.oilingantiques.com.
Lin Jingjing, Insecure Security 2#7, 2012, Mixed media, 162 x 135 cm
Art+culture | The Guide developing countries like Brazil, Russia, India and China. Having said that, European and American talents are also represented at this space. 28 Tai Ping Shan St., Sheung Wan, 3105-2148, www.apcontemporary.com.
Lam & Co Antiquities
LAM & CO ANTIQUITIES — An impressive collection of fine Chinese antiquities which ranges from the Neolithic period to the Qing dynasty and includes bronze, gold and silver ware, pottery and porcelain. This shop is well-known by collectors, galleries and auction dealers worldwide and offers repair, restoration, authentication and shipping services. 2/4, 181 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2543-8877, www.lamantiquities.com.
ART BEATUS — Established in the early 1990s, Art Beatus features mainly original paintings and art by contemporary Chinese artists. Most of its collection has a retro slant, and uses elements of pop, propaganda, illustration and cartoon as vehicles for expression. Has branches in Vancouver and on Queen’s Road Central. G/F, 50 Peel St., Central, 2522-1138, www.artbeatus.com. ASIA FINE ART — Dedicated to promoting young Asian artists at affordable prices, this gallery has regular exhibitions of work from China, Vietnam and Burma for sale on site and online. 14 Sik On St., Wan Chai (entrance at 99 Queen’s Rd. East), 2522-0405, www.asia-fineart.com.
WATTIS FINE ART — Specializes in antique maps of Asia, and historical photographs and prints of China, Hong Kong, and Southeast Asia. 2/F, 20 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2524-5302, www.wattis.com.hk.
Galleries 10 CHANCERY LANE GALLERY — Focusing on established and emerging international artists, 10 Chancery Lane consists of three large gallery spaces. It holds exhibitions of paintings, photographs, installations and videos, as well as performances by renowned artists. G/F, 10 Chancery Lane, SoHo, 2810-0065, www.10chancerylanegallery.com. AGNèS B. LIBRAIRIE GALERIE — French fashion chain and long-time supporter of the arts, Agnès b. has a contemporary art space dedicated to showing the best from Asia and the world. G/F, 118 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2869-5505, www.agnesb.com. ALISAN FINE ARTS — This well-established gallery has organized more than 100 exhibitions for Chinese artists from around the world. Run by respected art-world figure Alice King, who has worked with the Guggenheim Museum, it also mounts exhibitions for overseas venues. Room 2305, Hing Wai Centre, 7 Tin Wan Praya Rd., Aberdeen, 2526-1091, www.alisan.com.hk. ARCH ANGEL ART GALLERY — One of Hong Kong’s biggest galleries features an outstanding collection of contemporary Vietnamese oil paintings, acquired directly from the artists. The owners have carefully selected and bought each painting during frequent trips to Vietnam so, contrary to common practice, none of the works are on consignment. Be sure to check out their private stock on nearby Peel Street, featuring a fine collection of 20th-century contemporary paintings from some of Asia’s leading artists. 38 Peel St., Central, 2851-6882, firstname.lastname@example.org. AP Contemporary— AP Contemporary is dedicated to supporting up-and-coming contemporary artists, especially those from 24 W HERE HONG KONG I August 2013
Asia Society Hong Kong
ASIA SOCIETY HONG KONG — Asia Society Hong Kong's big, brand-spankin’-new headquarters are in a beautifully refurbished former storehouse for British artillery and ammunition. Playing host to a myriad of lectures, exhibitions, performances, film screenings, tours, seminars and conferences—97 percent of which are open to the public—the Asia Society is a literal treasure trove. Closed Mondays. 9 Justice Drive, Admiralty, 2103-9511, www.asiasociety.org/hong-kong. BEN BROWN FINE ARTS — After 10 years at Sotheby’s and two more at a private gallery, Ben Brown and his wife sought to create a space that housed pieces reflective of their tastes—primarily on European modern and contemporary artworks. 301 Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2522-9600, www.benbrownfinearts.com.
CONNOISSEUR CONTEMPORARY — This contemporary gallery seeks to identify new and emerging talents as well as those deserving of more space and recognition. Expect to find a wide range of genres and styles from around the world. Shop G4, Chinachem Hollywood Centre, 1 Hollywood Rd., Central, 3521-0300, www.connoisseurcontemporary.com CONTEMPORARY BY ANGELA LI — Perhaps best known for introducing Chinese artists Chen Jiagang and Liao Yibai to the art world, CBAL boasts a lovely space and a carefully curated exhibition program. G/F, 248 Hollywood Rd., Central, 3571-8200, www.cbal.com.hk. DE SARTHE GALLERY — Specializing in the sale of 19th and 20th century masters, previous exhibitions have shown the works of art world greats such as Miro, Picasso and Chu Teh-chun, just to name a few. First opening in Paris in 1977 and branching out across the U.S. and Europe, de Sarthe finally opened its first Asian outpost in Hong Kong in 2011. 8/F, 16 Ice House St., Central, 2167-8896, desarthe.com. ESPACE LOUIS VUITTON — LV has been invading gallery spaces for the past half decade, stirring unrest in the hearts of hard-line art critics but appreciation in the eyes of those beholders who’re able to look past reservations about brand-name commercialism. Espace Louis Vuitton, Louis Vuitton Mansion, 5 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 8100-1182. GAGOSIAN GALLERY — With 12 galleries and counting, the famed Gagosian has chosen Hong Kong as its gateway to Asia. Theyopened their doors in January 2011 with a bang, featuring an all-new exhibition by Damien Hirst—Gagosian only exhibits the crème-de-lacrème of the art world. 7/F, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2151-0555, www.gagosian.com. GALERIE DU MONDE — Galerie du Monde hosts exhibitions by Chinese artists including Li Shuang, Le Longyao, Yu Xiaohui, Hon Chifun and Pan Xun. Its conservation studio provides a complete restoration service for works of art on paper and canvas. Shop 108, 1/F, Ruttonjee Center, 11 Duddell St., Central, 2525-0529, www.galeriedumonde.com.
THE CAT STREET GALLERY — Showcasing contemporary and modern art in a variety of mediums, Cat Street exhibits emerging and established artists from around the world. 222 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2291-0006, www.thecatstreetgallery.com.
GROTTO FINE ART — Curated by Henry Au-yeung, a specialist in 20th-century Chinese art history, this gallery represents local artists, with an interest in new and avant-garde art forms. You’ll find paintings, sculptures, prints and photography, mixedmedia and installation pieces. 2/F, 31C-D Wyndham St., Central, 2121-2270, www.grottofineart.com.
CONNOISSEUR ART GALLERY — Specializing in contemporary Chinese fine art since 1989, Connoisseur features such acclaimed artists as Paris-based Jia Juan-li, renowned Guangzhou artist Zhang Da-zhong and still life artist Liu Ying-zhao. Shop G3, Chinachem Hollywood Centre, 1 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2868-5358, www.connoisseur-art.com.
HANART TZ GALLERY — A specialist in contemporary Chinese art, Hanart has exhibited works in oil, ink, print, sculpture, photography and video by mainland, Taiwanese and Hong Kong artists. It offers a wide selection and prices that accommodate almost everyone. 401 Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2526-9019, www.hanart.com.
Lehmann Maupin Gallery — With the original branch in New York and with its reputation of supporting contemporary art and culture, the Lehmann Maupin Gallery will be opening its doors here on March 14. Architect Rem Koolhas designed the gallery, making sure to keep the historic columns in the Pedder Building intact. Female Korean artist Lee Bul will open with an exhibit featuring paintings and 3D sculptures using all sorts of media and materials. 407 Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central.2530-0025, email@example.com. OPERA GALLERY — Opera Gallery features works by world-famous international artists, including Picasso, Chagall, Salvador Dali, Renoir and Chinese painter Ting Shao Kuang, among others. W Place, 52 Wyndham St., Central, 2810-1208, www.operagallery.com. Puerta Roja — Puerta Roja was established to promote Latin American art and artists to the Hong Kong audience. Drawings, etchings, glasswork and sculptures are all featured here. Shop A, G/F, Wai Yue Building, 15-17 New St., Sheung Wan, 2803-0332. PICTURE THIS — The city’s largest affordable art gallery specializes in posters, antique maps, prints and early photographs of Hong Kong and China. It also carries antiquarian and secondhand books about Asia, first editions of modern literature, prints and photographs for children’s rooms, and sporting prints. Suite 1308, 13/F, 9 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2525-2820, www.picturethiscollection.com. PLUM BLOSSOMS GALLERY — Recognized for its exhibitions of contemporary Asian art as well as an outstanding collection of museum-quality ancient textiles, Plum Blossoms is an established platform for the promotion of both ancient and modern arts. Shop G6, Chinachem Hollywood Centre, 1 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2521-2189, www.plumblossoms.com. Red Square Gallery — Red Square Gallery is a window into Contemporary Russian Art. Expanding into four branches, the gallery is dedicated to bringing creative and dynamic artwork to Hong Kong. G/F, 1A Wong Nai Chung Rd., Happy Valley. 2838-0040, www.redsquare-gallery.com.
August 2013 I WHERE HONG KONG 25
Rouge Ephemere—Rouge Ephemere is a new gallery on Hollywood Road by French natives Françoise Thuriere and Yves Azemar, showcasing a selection of artworks which are not commonly found in Hong Kong’s art scene. Japanese raku ceramics, metal and wood sculpture as well as jewelry and vintage prints from international artists such as Christine Cloos, Diane Truti and Maud Lelievre can all be found here. Flat B, 1/F, 89 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2323-2394, www.facebook.com/ RougeEphemere. SHIN HWA GALLERY — Focusing on Asian contemporary art, Shin Hwa features both upcoming and established artists. It is particularly committed to innovative Chinese artists. G/F, 32 Aberdeen St., Central, 2803-7960, www.shinhwagallery.com.
WHITE CUBE — One of the world’s top contemporary galleries opened its first non-UK outpost in Hong Kong in March of 2012. The gallery represents many members of the Young British Artists (YBA) movement, who are known for their shock factor, confrontational nature and use of disposable materials—for instance, Damien Hirst’s famous dead shark suspended in formaldehyde. G-1/F, 50 Connaught Rd. Central, 2592-2000, www.whitecube.com. ZEE STONE GALLERY — Zee Stone, established in 1991, exhibits a wide range of contemporary artists from mainland China, using both ink and color on paper and oil on canvas. The gallery’s exhibitions reflect the rich diversity of contemporary Chinese art, including abstract landscapes, realistic portraits, paintings on rice paper by traditionally trained Chinese masters and new work by a younger generation in acrylic and mixed media. G/F, Chinachem Hollywood Centre, 1 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2810-5895, www.zeestone.com.
Museums FLAGSTAFF HOUSE MUSEUM OF TEAWARE — Located in Flagstaff House, the oldest surviving colonial building in the territory, and once the home of the commander-in-chief of British forces in Hong Kong, the museum houses a prized Asian teaware collection. It’s also home to Lock Cha Tea House, which serves myriad varieties of tea and delicate vegetarian dim sum in a cute Chinese-style setting. Closed Tue. 10 Cotton Tree Drive, Hong Kong Park, Central, 2869-0690, www.hk.art.museum.
26 W HERE HONG KONG I August 2013
HONG KONG FILM ARCHIVE — A repository of all things related to Hong Kong films, the Archive contains lots of movies, conservation labs, a resource center, exhibition hall and a cinema. Closed Thursdays. 50 Lei King Rd., Sai Wan Ho, 2739-2139. HONG KONG HERITAGE MUSEUM — This modern museum is devoted to preserving the city’s historical, art and cultural heritage. It features permanent exhibitions on the New Territories, Cantonese opera and a Children’s Discovery Gallery. Closed Tue & public holidays. 1 Man Lam Rd., Sha Tin, 2180-8188, www.hk.heritage.museum. HONG KONG MARITIME MUSEUM — This museum holds semi-permanent and special exhibitions tracing Hong Kong's growth into a major world port, and the contributions made by China and the West to the development of ships, maritime exploration, trade and naval warfare. Central Ferry Pier No. 8, 3713-2500, www.hkmaritimemuseum.org. HONG KONG MUSEUM OF ART — One of the city’s largest museums houses fine examples of ancient Chinese art from the Han to the Qing dynasties. The exhibition galleries regularly showcase contemporary and international works, including major traveling exhibitions from world-class museums. 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721-0116, www.hk.art.museum. HONG KONG MUSEUM OF HISTORY — This fascinating museum explores 6,000 years of Hong Kong history, from the Neolithic to the post-war period, with recreations of prehistoric scenes and the early colonial era. It’s the reconstruction of a street that really grabs your attention. Closed Tue. 100 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2724-9042, www.hk.history.museum. HONG KONG MUSEUM OF MEDICAL SCIENCES — Located in an elegant brick building, this museum charts the development of medicine in the city. It was the first to focus on both Western and traditional Chinese approaches to healthcare. Along with a display of herbs and remedies, there is antique apothecary equipment. Closed Mon. 2 Caine Lane, Mid-Levels, 2549-5123, www.hkmms.org.hk. LAW UK FOLK MUSEUM — Law Uk, which means “Law’s House” after its original owner, is an 18th-century, Qing-dynasty Hakka village house, complete with furnishings and artifacts. It is the sole remaining architectural example of its kind in Chai Wan. Free admission. Closed Thu. 14 Kut Shing St., Chai Wan, 2896-7006, www.hk.history.museum. LEI CHENG UK HAN TOMB MUSEUM — Housing a 2,000-year-old tomb with four chambers, this is one of the city’s most fascinating monuments. Discovered in 1955, it now has an adjacent gallery that features 58 items excavated during the construction of the Lei Cheng Uk Resettlement Area. Closed Thu. 41 Tonkin St., Sham Shui Po, 2386-2863, www.hk.history.museum.
August 2013 I WHERE HONG KONG 27
dining | The Guide
A Fishy Tale
Dig into some fresh sashimi at these affordable Japanese restos.
Ka Ma Do
ong Kong is a city obsessed with all things Japanese, not to mention home to some of the most premium sushi restaurants outside of the country. But for the traveler on a budget, there are also plenty of affordable diners where you can have some quality sushi without breaking the bank.
platter for $1,200, which comfortably feeds three to five and includes seven kinds of fish; or the humbler “Deluxe Assorted” sashimi platter for $680, which comes wtih tuna belly and shrimp. Shop A, G/F, Bo Fung Mansion, 9-11 St. Francis St., Wan Chai, 2411-0499. Sushi Hiro
sashimi with rice, sets you back $390. 10/F, Henry House, 42 Yun Ping Rd., Causeway Bay, 2882-8752.
A Long Game Ba Sushi Rokkaku
Chef’s Table Rokkaku, a tiny restaurant in a corner of Wan Chai’s Star Street, offers a top-notch, authentic Japanese sushi experience at reasonable prices. Chef Wong’s meticulously prepared seasonal omakase set costs only $420 and his assorted sushi platter of snapper, salmon, crab roe and tuna retails at $260. Remember to book in advance since it’s a full house almost every night.
Casual Bites Among the superabundance of Japanese restaurants in the Wan Chai district, Ba Sushi appeals to its customers with its quality dishes offered at great prices. It specializes in aburi sushi (grilled sushi) menus and fusionstyle sushi rolls. The seared salmon sushi ($30) and fried soft-shell crab roll ($49) are two recommended dishes. Shops 1-5, G/F, King Dao Building, 14 Burrows St., Wan Chai, 2893-2282.
G/F, 6 Kwong Ming St., Wan Chai, 2866-8166.
New Kid on the Block Mizuki is a newly opened restaurant that offers traditional Japanese dishes as well as its own inventions, like the Mizuki special roll at $180 (for six pieces). It’s like a California roll, but with extra scallops and salmon roe. All the raw goods are shipped from Japan and hand-picked by the staff. Get the “Super Deluxe” assorted sashimi 28 WHERE HONG KONG I August 2013
Nice Rice Sushi Hiro serves some marvelously fresh sashimi and meticulously prepared dishes from different Japanese regions, including Fukuoka, Matsuyama, Osaka, Tsukiji, Sendai and Hokkaido. The resto uses less sticky and highly absorbent Japanese rice to make its sushi. Try the delectable prawn sashimi ($250 for three pieces). The Chirashi sushi set, which comes with various pieces of assorted
Try the longest sushi in Hong Kong at Kam Tin Long, where pieces of raw fish stretch to precisely 8.8 inches. Regular sushi costs $40 per piece, while salmon belly is more of an indulgence at $78.8 per piece. (Eight is an auspicious number in Cantonese culture.) Regular salmon is the best deal, at $82 for one chop cut into eight pieces. Shop 1, 1/F, Landwide Commercial Building, 118-120 Austin Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2730-3678.
Fish with a View With a panoramic view of Victoria Harbour, Ka Ma Do has a romantic ambience to go with its affordable sushi. Sushi platters are the name of the game here. The “Deluxe Assorted” sashimi platter costs $520 and includes seven different kinds of fish at three pieces each, while the “Premium Assorted” sushi platter costs $258 and includes salmon, large prawns and tuna belly. Room 802, 8/F, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2269-5051.
Spanish Invasion A new tapas restaurant in Central is the latest Spain-inspired venue to populate Hong Kong. By Adele Wong Tapas are hot, hot, hot in Hong Kong. Numero 15, the casual cousin of the recently relocated Mesa 15—whose former space it now occupies—is the latest in a series of trendy Spanish diners to set shop in our city. Both Numero and Mesa are run under chef Alejandro Sanchez from Barcelona, who used to own a Michelin-starred resto called Restaurante Alejandro in sunny Andalucia. At Numero 15, you’re getting uber-trendy tapas such as boneless suckling pig, Iberico belly mantou (yes,
that’s Chinese steamed bun) and tender ox tongue skewers as well as homemade mascarpone cheesecakes and chocolate mousse in a jar. The space has been revamped by graphic designer Ronan Leung, who’s injected lots or pop-arty graphics onto the walls. Meanwhile, Mesa will continue serving upscale Spanish dishes at its new space in the Grand Progress Building. Numero 15, 15 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2362-0881. Mesa 15, 6/F, Grand Progress Building, 15-16 Lan Kwai Fong, Central, 2362-0881.
Central & Lan Kwai Fong
DAN RYAN’S — American. $$$ With mammoth meat platters and massive potato skins, Dan Ryan’s prides itself on Chicago-style chow. Shop 112, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2845-4600.
IPPUDO — Ramen. $ Japan’s famous chain serves ramen in bowls so enormous they should be called cauldrons, with a meaty, savory broth, tender pork pieces, springy noodles and tangy spring onions topped with fungus and bean sprouts. 2/F, 8 Russell St., 2892-2387.
AMBER — Modern French. $$$$ Modern, inventive French cuisine meets attentiongrabbing decor. 7/F, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2132-0066.
METROPOL — Dim sum. $ Beef balls, steamed shrimp dumplings, pork-and-shrimp dumplings, stuffed rice rolls and other Hong Kong specialties are wheeled around in traditional trolleys for an authentic dim sum experience. 3/F, United Centre, 95 Queensway, Admiralty, 2865-1988. NICHOLINI’S — Italian. $$$$ Hands down the best Sunday brunch around. It gets kudos from honest-to-goodness Italians, and that’s good enough for us. 8/F, Conrad International Hong Kong, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2521-3838. PETRUS — French. $$$$ This place can best be equated with a fine wine: expensive but so pleasing to the palate that it’s worth the money. The décor is a bit ostentatious, but the opulence suits the magnificent view. 56/F, Island Shangri-La, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2820-8590.
MANGO TREE — Thai. $$-$$$ Somehow, in the middle of bustling Causeway Bay, in a high-rise chock-full of other restaurants and bars, Mango Tree manages to be an oasis of dim lighting, carefully placed flowers and good Thai food. 5/F, Cubus, 1 Hoi Ping Rd., Causeway Bay, 2577-0828.
Boqueria — Spanish. $$$ Feast on tasty tapas and bomba rice paellas at this chain from New York. 7/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2321-8681. CAPRICE — French. $$$$ Three Michelin Stars. Splurge on haute cuisine at this French restaurant staffed by chefs formerly of Le Cinq in Paris. The gorgeous interior includes floorto-ceiling windows. 6/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 3196-8860.
Sorabol — Korean. $$ The smell wafting from the open barbecues in the middle of each table will get your appetite going— which is a good thing, since you’ll want to try everything. 18/F, Lee Theatre Plaza, 99 Percival St., 2881-6823.
INAGIKU — Japanese. $$$ The Hong Kong branch of one of Japan’s oldest and best-known restaurants, it lives up to the buzz: authentic, delicious and quiveringly fresh. 4/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 2805-0600.
Tott’s — Modern Asian/Western. $$$-$$$$ Sophisticated décor, harbor-view seats, and perfectly crafted entrees are the hallmark here. The attentive service also deserves special mention. 34/F, The Excelsior, 281 Gloucester Rd., 2837-6786.
ISLAND TANG — Cantonese. $$$$ Shanghai Tang founder David Tang’s art-deco dining space is a welcome bright spot amid Central’s modern office towers, with top local cuisine to match. Shop 222, 2/F, The Galleria, 9 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2526-8798. August 2013 I WHERE HONG KONG 29
dining | The Guide ISOLA BAR & GRILL — Italian. $$$$ The glam factor is off the scale, with stunning harbor views and high ceilings, not to mention handmade pastas, pizzas, risottos and more. Shop 3071-75 & 4011, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., 2383-8765. L’ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON — French. $$$$ The Frenchman named “Chef of the Century” by Gault Millau designs authentic dishes with exquisite finesse and precision, which are then turned out by highly trained chefs in the open kitchen. Shop 401, 4/F, The Landmark, 2166-9000. LIN HEUNG Lau— Cantonese. $$ The setup has changed little in more than 50 years and it still remains a popular hangout for those craving a bit of old Hong Kong nostalgia and really, really good food. Most people come here for daytime dim sum, but dinner’s great too. 160-164 Wellington St., Central, 2544-4556. LUNG KING HEEN — Cantonese. $$$-$$$$ Three Michelin Stars. The name means “view of the dragon” and the floor-to-ceiling windows make the case. Stylish décor, flawless service and traditional as well as innovative dishes only add to the appeal. 4/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 3196-8880. Mayta — Peruvian. $$$ Indulge in colorful and multi-textured dishes like pork belly stew and seafood ceviche at one of LKF’s most popular new restos. 3/F, Grand Progress Building, 15 Lan Kwai Fong, Central, 2790-0928.
The Peak THE PEAK LOOKOUT — International. $$$ Offering an alfresco terrace with a view of the city, this restaurant features an open, bright and airy environment—more like a mountain lodge than a country club—and excellent fare. 121 Peak Rd., 2849-1000.
Repulse Bay SPICES — Pan-Asian. $$$ Below a glassy high-rise, this restaurant is devoted to showcasing the “fabled ingredients of the exotic food of the East.” It also offers a fantastic view of the South China Sea and the sandy shores below. 109 Repulse Bay Rd., 2292-2821. THE VERANDAH — Continental/International. $$$ Book brunch in time to get a seat at this popular spot. On other days, the a la carte menu never disappoints. Closed Mon. 109 Repulse Bay Rd., 2292-2822.
SoHo JASHAN — Indian. $$ Immediately impressive, with dim lighting, vermilion walls and colonial furnishings, Jashan offers an extensive menu, delicious food and hotel-level service. 1/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Rd., 3105-5300. POSTO PUBBLICO — Italian. $$$ Hip Greenwich Village types come to get their fill of such dishes as veal meatballs and “Brooklyn Special” sandwiches of homemade mozzarella, eggplant and lashings of balsamic vinegar. 28 Elgin St., 2577-7160.
FELIX — Fusion. $$$$ Still one of the swankiest restaurants in town, with Philippe Starck décor, modern food and famous bathrooms. It’s glam, contemporary and kid-free. 28/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, 2696-6778. FOOK LAM MOON — Cantonese. $$$$ Devotees swear this place serves the best Cantonese cuisine in the world. It’s been the place to go for southern Chinese delicacies for more than five decades. 55 Kimberley Rd., 2366-0286. HUTONG — Northern Chinese. $$$$ Dark wood furnishings and a fabulous harbor view make for a modern-day Chinese dining hall. The food is beautifully presented northern Chinese haute cuisine. 28/F, 1 Peking Rd., 3428-8342. MORTON’S OF CHICAGO — Steak. $$$$ With huge slabs of prime, aged beef accompanied by what looks like the winning entries in a hard-fought vegetable show, Morton’s is one of the best steak restaurants in Hong Kong. 4/F, Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Towers, 20 Nathan Rd., 2732-2343. NOBU — Japanese. $$$$ Mind-blowingly artistic in presentation, design and execution, this famous restaurant deserves the hype. Sushi is a must, as is the amazing black cod. 2/F, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., 2313-2323.
pierre — French. $$$$ Masterminded by threeMichelin-star chef Pierre Gagnaire, this is a bastion of fine French dining. 25/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd., 2825-4001.
SEVVA — Contemporary. $$$$ The brainchild of local socialite Bonnie Gokson, this 22,000-square-foot penthouse restaurant comes with a buzzing wraparound terrace. The elegant eatery serves dishes drawn from Cantonese, Shanghainese, Indian and British culinary concepts. 25/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., 2537-1388. YELLOW DOOR KITCHEN — Sichuan. $$ Hong Kong’s first private kitchen, this favorite has been serving up fiery Sichuan cuisine since the early 1990s. 6/F, 37 Cochrane St., 2858-6555. ZUMA — Japanese. $$$$ This is one goodlooking restaurant, split over two floors and linked by a sumptuous staircase. It’s the local branch of London’s famed eatery, offering a sophisticated twist on the traditional izakaya. 5-6/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3657-6388. 30 WHERE HONG KONG I August 2013
YARDBIRD — Yakitori. $$$ This is a no-frills yet achingly modern two-story yakitori joint in a trendy corner of the district. The skewers are all chicken-based, and taken from every part of the chicken’s body from the heart to the skin. Don’t forget to sample the house sake. 33-35 Bridges St., Sheung Wan, 2547-9273.
Tsim Sha Tsui
SPOON — French. $$$$ Michelin-starred chef Alain Ducasse’s restaurant has floor-to-ceiling windows, a fabulous harbor view and a pick-and-mix menu that gives you room to be creative. InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., 2313-2256. T’ANG COURT — Cantonese. $$$$ This little gem serves some of the city’s finest Cantonese cuisine. 1/F, Langham Hotel, 8 Peking Rd., 2375-1133. Whisk — Modern European. $$$ Whisk is known for its contemporary European dishes and extensive wine list that is relatively more affordable than other fine diners. 5/F, The Mira, 118 Nathan Rd., 2315-5999.
ANGELINI — Italian. $$$-$$$$ With Italian native Marco Medaglia at the helm, Angelini serves up unpretentious food, with an emphasis on seafood and ingredients air-freighted from Italy three times a week. Also has a great harbor view. Kowloon Shangri-La, 64 Mody Rd., 2733-8750.
YE SHANGHAI — Shanghainese. $$$ With upscale cuisine served in shareable portions, this is the place for Shanghainese dishes like camphor-smoked duck with pancakes. Also known for its interior full of fabulous chinoiserie. 6/F, The Marco Polo Hong Kong Hotel, 3 Canton Rd., 2376-3322.
BO INNOVATION — Asian. $$$-$$$$ Experimental cuisine pairing local ingredients with delicacies imported from across the world. Shop 13, 2/F, J Residence, 60 Johnston Rd., 2850-8371. Catalunya — Spanish. $$$$ This 7,500 square feet of restaurant and bar space offers Catalan-style dishes such as roasted suckling pig and lobster rice. G/F, Guardian House, Morrison Hill, 32 Oi Kwan Rd., Wan Chai, 2866-7900.
CéPAGE — European. $$$$ There are just 56 seats for maximum privacy—and exclusivity, of course. Dishes are intricately prepared, including their caviar on petals of potato salad with herbs, and their grilled amadai with vin jaune and black truffle. Be warned: Cépage is toe-curlingly expensive, but hey, you might spot a tycoon or two. 23 Wing Fung St., Wan Chai, 2861-3130. MADAM SIXTY EIGHT — European. $$$ At this posh eclectic eatery, an open kitchen faces the diners, with chefs readying exquisitely prepared dishes scurrying around. 1/F, The Podium, J Senses, 60 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2527-2558. THE PAWN — British. $$$ Serving fabulous food in a faithful restoration of an 1888 landmark building, The Pawn houses a bar and a restaurant with a roof and a breezy balcony overlooking Johnston Road. The menu has modern British fare with a luxurious twist. 62 Johnston Rd., 2866-3444. WOOLOOMOOLOO — Australian/New Zealand. $$$ This steakhouse is several places at once: a laid-back wine bar and a casual drinks terrace on the rooftop, and a fine-dining steakhouse below. 31-32/F, 256 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai, 2893-6960.
32 WHERE HONG KONG I August 2013
Taste of the city special advertising section
Spice features the
Enjoy a COMPLIMENTARY DESSERT with this ad
“Bollywood and Belly Dance Night’’,
a regular performance by two belly dancers, held every Thursday at 8:30pm .
* for dine-in and a la carte menu only We provide fine Thai, Indian and Malay cuisine with good selection of fine wines. Come experience our flavours of coriander, cumin, chili and lemongrass. Spice up your evening with friends!
Our chefs have also come up with a special menu to swing and sway to the diners’ delight of this groovy atmosphere.
www.spice-restaurant.hk 2/F, No.1 Knutsford Terrace, Tsim Sha Tsui, Tsim Sha Tsui Kowloon. Reservations: 2191 9880 / 2191 9886 Daily Opening Hours: Lunch: Mon – Sun 12nn – 3pm Dinner: Sun – Thu 6pm – 11pm Fri – Sat 6pm – 11:30pm
August 2013 I WHERE HONG KONG 33
BARS & CLUBS
To get listed on this page, email firstname.lastname@example.org or call 2850-5678.
Bacar Bacar serves unpretentious food and wine at very competitive prices. It is popular with HK regulars who like to people-watch while standing next to the escalators with wine in hand. G/F, 2 Shelley St., SoHo, 2521-8322
Lâ€™etage With the feel of a true gentlemenâ€™s club, this is a place for Hongkongers to sit back and relax with a taditionally made cocktail.
33-35 Staunton St., Central 2522 5300
Iberico & Co. This space was designed by award-winning designer Kinney Chan, and offers something completely unique to SoHo customers: an airy, spacious and grand interior with an unpretentious gastro bar feel. G/F, 18 Shelley St., SoHo, 2752-8811
34 WHERE HONG KONG August 2013
Enoteca on Elgin Enoteca on Elgin opened its doors in 2005 and remains busy and buzzing almost six years on. This narrow 60-seat Mediterranean tapas and wine bar is so popular with locals and tourists that reservations are a must. G/F, 47 Elgin St., SoHo, 2525-9944
BARS & CLUBS Stop C
Cicada Cicada is the first wine bar and restaurant in Hong Kong to dedicate itself entirely to “Asian Tapas.” Its intention is for guests to sample a wide array of dishes and flavors from all over the region in a contemporary, Asia-inspired city wine bar. G/F, 4 Shelley St., SoHo, 2521-8188
tt i n
suit even the most discerning single-malt drinkers. 2/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Rd., Central 2805-8388
There’s enough aged golden liquid here to
H o ll
Specifically designed for whisky-lovers.
The Blck Brd
This Chilled- out spot has an official
This Francophone hangout is all sultry
“no loud music” policy, making it the
drapes, chandeliers and velvet upholstery.
perfect place for a few low-key drinks.
The cocktails are stellar too.
The outdoor terrace is a serene place
B/F, 65 Wyndham St., Central 2530-3807
to watch the world go by. 6/F, 8 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central 2545-8555
August 2013 I WHERE HONG KONG 35
Drinks | The Guide Bars & Clubs
Grape Expectations Local winery The 8th Estate sources top grapes from all over the world to make tipple that it can call its own. By Jee Hee Lim Lysanne Tusar
ANGEL’S SHARE — This unique drinking loft is specifically designed for whisky-lovers. Sourced from Scotland, to Japan, there’s enough aged golden liquid here to suit even the most discerning single-malt drinkers. 2/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2805-8388. AQUA spirit — For cocktails with a killer view, you can do no better than this swanky high-rise venue with an eagle’s eye view of the harbor. 29/F, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3427-2288.
Fancy some tipple that’s made in Hong Kong? The 8th Estate Winery—the city’s first and only fully functioning one to date—uses a flash-freezing technique to ship in grapes that are hand-picked from all over the world before turning them into delicate bottles of wine. Since the city’s climate and environment aren’t conducive to grape-growing, this workaround is a clever way to keep the production process local. “We do everything here except for the growing,” says founder Lysanne Tusar. This means that the imported grapes go through pressing, fermenting and aging at the Ap Lei Chau-based winery, on the south side of Hong Kong island. “We’ve got the solid, patriotic product of Hong Kong which we’re so proud of,” Tusar continues. “But we also have that international element of getting the ingredients from around the world, and we’re very proud of that too. I think this reflects how people are in Hong Kong. We’re all from somewhere else or have travelled or have a broad perspective.” At The 8th Estate, each year’s production is dedicated to one particular region. A winemaker from that same region is then invited to be in charge of making the wine. To date, the winery has experimented with grapes from the
States, Italy, France, and South Australia. As a result, it’s one of the few wineries in the world to claim five different vintages from four different countries. “It is really important that people see how transparent we are and understand what we are doing,” Tusar says. “This is a space to get to know wine. We have different people walking in all the time, from more experienced collectors who want to talk about laboratory analysis of wine, to people who don’t know anything about wine.”
Taste Test The winery is open for walk-in visitors on most Friday and Saturday afternoons and appointment-only public tastings are held on weekdays from 11am to 7pm, for a minimum of four visitors. Admission is free with on-site purchase of a bottle of wine per person. If you’re with a group of 10 or more and would like more privacy and customized interaction, you can make private appointments that come with an hour-long tour followed by a wine tasting session. Appointments can be made for Mondays to Fridays from 1pm to 10pm. Room 302, 3/F, Harbour Industrial Center, 10 Lee Hing St., Ap Lei Chau, 2518-0922, www.the8estatewinery.com.
Azure — Stunning view, minimalist blue décor and great cocktails. 29/F, LKF Hotel, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 3518-9330. Beijing Club — This impressive megaclub recently celebrated its fourth anniversary and is the biggest in town. Expect wet-look vinyl walls, gold-plated bathrooms and a youthful crowd. 2-3/F & 5/F, Wellington Place, 2-8 Wellington St., Central, 2526-8298. Blckbrd — This chilled-out spot has an official “no loud music” policy, making it the perfect place for a few low-key drinks. Located on the sixth floor, the outdoor terrace is a serene place to watch the world go by. 6/F, 8 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, 2545-8555. BLUE BAR — The upscale Blue Bar is a big hit with the cocktail set. Yes, the martinis are worth getting dressed up for. Four Seasons Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central, 3196-8830. Café Gray Deluxe — Beside the seductively stretched bar are cozy booths for intimate lounging, and its 49th-floor perch guarantees breathtaking harbor views. Cocktail lovers should try the Hong Kong Highball. 49/F, The Upper House, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 3968-1106. Central Wine Club — This exclusive spot on Wyndham Street was designed with oenophiles in mind. Luxe, modern Baroque surrounds keep pace with the slow jazz and contemporary tunes. 3/F, Sea Bird House, 22-28 Wyndham St., Central, 2147-3448. CLUB@28 — This stylish bar has killer views, deadly cocktails and its very own outdoor oasis called The Pavilion. It’s members only, but you can join on arrival and it’s free. 28/F, Crowne Plaza Hotel, 8 Leighton Rd., Causeway Bay, 3980-3300.
For weekly event listings, pick up a free copy of HK Magazine (available at most bars, restaurants and coffee shops).
36 W HERE HONG KONG I August 2013
G111, HARBOUR CITY, CANTON ROAD WWW.MSBSCAKERY.HK
Drinks | The Guide COCKY BAR — The name is simply the bar’s way of boasting that it’s a top spot to grab a cocktail. Arguably true, since it has a stunning alfresco balcony overlooking the glittering harbor. 18/F, The One, 100 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2724-6388. DRAGON BAR — The kitschy-chic bar sits betwixt the equally droll west and east dining rooms, and looks like an exotic dive in 70s London Chinatown. Hullet House, 2A Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3988-0101. DRAGON-I — Watch the bold and the beautiful work the celeb-studded room. It’s usually packed with models, especially on Wednesday nights. UG/F, The Centrium, 60 Wyndham St., Central, 3110-1222. EXECUTIVE BAR — So quiet the sound of a ninja’s sword slicing through silk would be cause for shushing. Well, not really, but it is quiet, Japanese and well stocked with Scotch— the drink of the introspective man. 27/F, Bartlock Centre, 3 Yiu Wa St., Causeway Bay, 2893-2080. GRAPPA’S CELLAR — This bustling after-work spot features some of the city’s top jazz musicians. B/F, Jardine House, Connaught Place, Central, 2521-2322.
M BAR — Set against the heights of Hong Kong’s skyline, the Mandarin Oriental’s M Bar makes for a ravishingly chic hangout. Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4002. Martini BAR — This stylish hotel bar has nightly entertainment, a range of cocktails beyond just martinis and is one of the few cigar lounges in town. The Royal Garden, 69 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui East, 2733-2995.
KEE CLUB — A good concierge should be able to get you into this exclusive members-only club, where you can sip a cocktail and check out the Picassos, antiques and colonial-style service. 6/F, 32 Wellington St., Central, 2810-9000. L’etage — With the feel of a true gentlemen’s club, this is a place for refined Hongkongers to sit back and relax with a traditionally made cocktail in one hand and a cigar in another. It’s worth coming back just to watch head bartender Katsuhisa Hirakawa hand-carve spheres of ice for whisky. 22/F, 525 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2522-5300. LE BOUDOIR — This Francophone hangout is all sultry drapes, chandeliers and velvet upholstery. The cocktails are stellar, too. B/F, 65 Wyndham St., Central, 2530-3870. LILY — VIPs are buzzed in and out of Lily’s fabulous secret room, the Blind Pig. The aesthetes amongst you will be delighted that so much attention has been paid to the visual elements of the venue. 6/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2810-6166. 38 W HERE HONG KONG I August 2013
SUGAR — Sink into one of the sofas at this swanky rooftop bar and enjoy the amazing views of the harbor. 32/F, East Hotel, 29 Tai Koo Shing Rd., Tai Koo, 3968-3738.
Lion Rock — Lion Rock is the place to unwind and relax while having one (or more) of 193 signature cocktails. Enjoy the awesome view and weekly wine and whisky tastings. 3/F, Royal Plaza Hotel,193 Prince Edward Rd. West, Kowloon, 2622-6167. MCSORLEY’S ALE HOUSE — Woody, Irish and vaguely Victorian, McSorley’s is the biggest pub in SoHo. 55 Elgin St., SoHo, 2522-2646. MO BAR — The bar at the Landmark Mandarin Oriental is a sleek, upscale addition to the nightlife scene. The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, Central, 2132-0077. Ozone — Located 118 floors above the ground, this watering hole boasts a superlative title: the highest bar in Hong Kong. This nightspot is a must-see, especially due to its drop-dead gorgeous lookout onto Victoria Harbour. 118/F, The Ritz-Carlton Hotel, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2263-2270.
The Lawn — This outdoor garden is a genuine urban oasis, exuding a serene, intimate vibe and illuminated entirely by a few candles. 6/F, The Upper House, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 3968-1106. THE PAWN — The modern British restaurant and bar, a former pawn shop, has an outdoor balcony from which to enjoy a view of Hong Kong’s 100-year-old trams. 62 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2866-3444. The Tonno — This complex features a bar, a clubbing zone, a restaurant, a live music lounge and karaoke rooms, taking “allaround entertainment” to a whole new level. Head here for an epic marathon of dancing, drinking, Elton John hits, dart games and Shanghainese buns. 5 Tonnochy Rd., Wan Chai, 3125-3888.
Jaa Bar — Located in a small alleyway off of Peel Street, Jaa Bar combines comfort and charm for an exclusive experience. The centerpiece of the ornate enclave is a custom-made wooden bar pieced together from classical furniture pieces. 1 Pak Tsz Lane, Central, 2815-8887.
Staunton’s — Popularly considered the best “people-watching spot” in Hong Kong, Staunton’s has the right equation for a chill evening drink. It also has an eclectic menu. 10-12 Staunton St., Central, 2973-6611.
RED BAR — Located on a terrace atop IFC Mall, this funky destination bar has a breathtaking public outdoor area with harbor views. 4/F, Two IFC, 8 Finance St., Central, 8129-8882. RIEDEL ROOM — The world’s first Riedel Room offers exclusive wines to be enjoyed in Riedel crystal glassware. JW Marriott Hotel, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2841-3836. Sake Bar Ginn — Sake sommelier Ayuchi Momose is behind this upper-floor bar. In addition to serving 100 types of sake and Japanese tapas, she also imports special sakes by microbreweries. Shop 4C, 4/F, Ho Lee Commercial Building, 38-44 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2536-4355. Salon de Ning — Decadent Shanghai art deco lounge with live music Mon-Sat. B/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2696-6705. SHORE — A chill outdoor space and one of the most extensive drinks selection in town. Newly renovated. 3/F, L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2915-1638.
VIBES — This is the Mira hotel’s svelte venue for drinks, with a stunning secret garden. 5/F, The Mira, 118 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-5999. VOLAR — Frequented by models and wannabes, Volar can be exclusive, but you can dance the night away to top DJs. B/F, 38-44 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2810-1510. WOOLOOMOOLOO — This steakhouse outlet boasts a gorgeous rooftop with stunning views of Victoria Harbour and the Happy Valley horse racing track. 31/F, The Hennessy, 256 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai, 2893-6960.
ShopS+Services | The Guide
Be There or Be Square Get a pair of Hong Kong-made leather shoes at a cool boutique in Sheung Wan. By Joey Wong Tucked away in Square Street in hipster Sheung Wan, Squarestreet is an achingly stylish concept store that stocks handmade leather accessories like shoes and wallets. The space started out as an office-slashworkstation for footwear designer Alexis Holm (www.gramstore.com) and watch designer David Ericsson (www.voidwatches. com), but when the duo noticed the number of people who ventured in from the streets to ask to buy the products, they decided it was time to turn the whole thing into an actual retail store. The quirky and artsy Tai Ping Shan neighborhood and the designers’ hometowns in Sweden provide inspiration for the ideas behind the products. “When we first arrived in the area, there was very little here aside from the coffin shops and a few art galleries,” Ericsson explains. “We got a very distinct feeling from the area, of calm and understated charm. We’re lucky to have been here since the very beginning, and have seen this area evolve into a lively, creative community.”
Holm and Ericsson both handcraft their own prototypes before letting the factories in Shenzhen take over. Because of this more direct approach to design and production, Squarestreet is able to keep both the costs and prices down. And then, to keep the products local, the designers often handpick materials and fabrics from Sham Shui Po and Mong Kok. Entering the fashion industry came naturally for both designers. “I stepped, as anyone would, feet first,” Holm says. He is, afterall, the head designer of Gram footwear—a brand he co-founded back in Stockholm. Squarestreet is predominantly a men’s brand, but the store just started selling women’s flats last month and are looking to launch more ladies’ slippers in the coming season. For some of Squarestreet’s leather goods, the designers prefer to implement a special folding technique, as opposed to stitching and adding zippers and buttons. Fewer additions to the leather means that the products would last longer.
Ericsson studied engineering throughout his college years, but he never lost sight of his interests in creating products. “I’ve always been fascinated with the process of creating products—from idea to delivery to the end user. After graduating as an engineer from the Royal Institute of Technology in Stockholm, I started working for one of Sweden’s largest industrial design firms—this is where I gradually shifted my attention toward design,” he says. Holm, meanwhile, has always been into design. “I always wanted to work for myself and to create products and a brand that I believe in,” he says. “I’ve always been attracted to an industry that drives me to make and create, keeps me on my toes and challenges me to improve and become an ever better designer.”
David Ericsson and Alexis Holm
Almost all goods, apart from certain types of alcohol and tobacco, are tax-free.
40 WHERE HONG KONG I August 2013
Tel: 2730 1251
ShopS+Services | The Guide
Top Shop Jazz up your iPhone and get a trendy pair of kicks all in one go at local accessories shop Volare. By Kate Springer
Hong Kong brand Volare has spread its wings into a new concept store in Causeway Bay. After studying leather work in Italy and Israel, founder Franco Yeung returned to Hong Kong to launch Volare in 2008, and has been handcrafting gorgeous collections of bags, shoes and accessories ever since. This small store is home to remixed takes on classic leather goods, such as lace-up boots and rustic iPad cases. The leather comes in all colors and finishes, from polished hazel to more playful shades of purple. Customize your kicks
Shopping Centers APM — In the center of Kwun Tong, APM opens late (11am) but closes even later (2am). It boasts 150 shops, a cinema, more than 20 international restaurants and a convenient link to the MTR station. Millennium City 5, 418 Kwun Tong Rd., Kwun Tong, 2267-0500. ELEMENTS — Two floors and a million square feet of retail heaven beneath Hong Kong’s tallest building, the ICC, this luxury mall offers international cuisine and world-class shopping. Other features include a cinema, ice rink and enormous roof garden. 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2735-5234.
42 WHERE HONG KONG I August 2013
with a choice of 15 colors, opt for the ready-to-wear flats or strap on one of the messenger bags, which somehow manage to strike a cool chord without slipping into hipsterville. When you step inside, it’s like you’re walking into someone’s home— or perhaps a tree house—with wood from top to bottom, exposed red brick, towering bookshelves and wooden crates that showcase the goods. Your bills don’t buy frills here, but rather, high-quality leather products that will outlast the fly-by trends.
HARBOUR CITY — This enormous stretch of shops runs along Canton Road for what seems like miles. Its four levels of shops, services and restaurants sprawl across over 2 million square feet. 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2118-8601. IFC MALL — This popular shopping center is home to more than 200 international high-end brands with Lane Crawford acting as an anchor. It also has a luxurious cinema, and some of the finest dining in the city. Easily accessible via MTR, Airport Express and Star Ferry. 8 Finance St., Central, 2295-3308. HORIZON PLAZA — It may not look promising but this is something of a mecca for bargain fashion, furniture and Chinese antiques. The industrial high-rise features Lane Crawford and Joyce outlets. Also look for homeware
emporium Tequila Kola and antiques warehouse Shambala. 2 Lee Wing St., Ap Lei Chau.
HYSAN PLACE — This brand-new mall is a great one-stop shopping destination, with over 120 stores (including hard-to-find Japanese brands) and tons of dining options. 500 Leighton Rd., Causeway Bay, 2886-7222.
ShopS+Services | The Guide ISLAND BEVERLEY — Browse through closetsized boutiques offering the best of hip local designers. 1 Great George St., Causeway Bay. THE LANDMARK — The Landmark is a fashion mecca centered around a five-story atrium. Don’t miss iconic London department store Harvey Nichols. 12-16 Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2921-2199.
TIMES SQUARE — One of Hong Kong’s largest malls, this 16-story complex contains more than 230 shops—including Lane Crawford, upscale Japanese supermarket City’super, Page One books and a cinema. 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay, 2118-8900.
Shops, Boutiques and Local Designers ADOREÉ — Popular lingerie boutique selling fashionable, international brands. Rm 604, 6/F, Commerical House, 35 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3101-0188, www.adoree.com.hk. Amours Antiques — Antique jewelry and vintage clothes. 45 Staunton St., Central, 2803-7877. Blanc de Chine — Modern Chinese luxury clothing and accessories for women and men. The Landmark, 12-16 Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2104-7934, www.blancdechine.com.
JOYCE — Named after founder and Hong Kong’s first lady of fashion, Joyce Ma, this is the place for red-hot fashion and accessories, cult beauty brands and too-chic housewares. New World Tower, 18 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2810-1120; 334 Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2523-5944.
LANGHAM PLACE — Occupying about 600,000 square feet, Langham Place houses fashion and lifestyle stores and more than 20 restaurants. It’s within walking distance of the Ladies’ Market and Fa Yuen Street. 8 Argyle St., Mongkok, 3520-2800, www.langhamplace.com.hk. LEE GARDENS — Divided into Lee Gardens and Lee Gardens Two, this luxury mall is stuffed with high-end retailers such as Gucci, Hermes, Louis Vuitton and more. Lee Gardens Two has children’s fashion shops, and there are plenty of restaurants to choose from. 18 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, 2907-2166, www.leegardens.com.hk.
G.O.D. — Some “Goods of Desire” for those searching for the perfect couch or unique home accessories. G-1/F, 48 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2805-1876, www.god.com.hk.
LANE CRAWFORD — This Hong Kong institution is almost as old as the city itself, and just as fashionable. It’s stacked with must-have designer brands as well as handbags, shoes, silver, linen, crystal and everything in between. 3/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2118-3388.
Rise Shopping Arcade — A playground for hip, trendy and young fashionistas. 5-11 Granville Circuit, Tsim Sha Tsui. SPY Henry Lau — Edgy and bold fashion for men and women. 1/F, 5 Cleveland St., Causeway Bay, 2317-6928, www.spyhenrylau.com. Harvey Nichols at Pacific Place
PACIFIC PLACE — One of the most popular malls in Hong Kong, Pacific Place has four floors of upscale shops and restaurants anchored by a massive Harvey Nichols. There’s also a nice range of eateries and a multi-screen cinema. 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2844-8988. PRINCE’S BUILDING — Part of the “Centers of Central” shopping hub, Prince’s Building is linked by covered walkway to The Landmark, Chater House, Alexandra House and The Galleria. A cozy mixture of the uberfashionable, the artistic and the maternal, it also houses the excellent Oliver’s supermarket. 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2921-2194. One Peking ROAD — Satisfy your thirst for designer wear with Dior, Fendi, Miu Miu and Cartier. 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. 44 WHERE HONG KONG I August 2013
Vivienne Tam — Elegant, feminine contemporary dresses with a Chinese twist. Shop 209, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2918-0238. Walter Ma — Well-established designer offering luxury fashion. 33 Sharp St. East, Causeway Bay, 2838-7655. Western Market — An Edwardian-styled building with restaurants and shops selling Chinese crafts and fabrics. 323 Des Voeux Rd. Central, Sheung Wan.
Department Stores Harvey Nichols — The Hong Kong branch of London’s department store is a haven of international brands, with a good restaurant—the Fourth Floor—and a fabulous beauty department. The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3695-3388, www.harveynichols.com.
SHANGHAI TANG — Shanghai Tang specializes in a funky fusion of traditional and contemporary Chinese design. You’ll find kitsch accessories, great housewares, fun T-shirts, fashion for men and women and incredibly beautiful bespoke cheongsams. The brand-new flagship is worth a visit. 1 Duddell St., Central, 2525-7333. SOGO — Japan’s most famous department store sits at one of the city’s busiest intersections. 555 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2833-8338.
THE SWANK — Representing established designers as well as up-and-coming talents, The Swank has been one of the finest local fashion houses since 1955. It has 17 freestanding boutiques and points-of-sale in major department stores. Shop 103B, 1/F, Ocean Centre, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2735-0842.
Chinese Emporiums CHINESE ARTS AND CRAFTS — Stuffed with the best of Chinese crafts, from tablecloths to objets d’art to some incredible jade, this is one of the best places to stock up on gifts, porcelain, jewelry, cloth and fine antiques. 1/F, Star House, 3 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2735-4061. YUE HWA CHINESE EMPORIUM — Yue Hwa is a great place to pick up souvenirs and gifts, from acupuncture needles to Chinese Zodiac figurines. There is a good selection of cheongsams, tops and trousers tailored from quality silk. 143-161 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2739-3888.
Tailors DAVID FASHION — G/F, Shop 15, Empress Plaza, 17-19 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-6884. LA ELITE FASHION — G/F, 1H Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-0040. L & K Custom Tailor — G/F, Mirador Mansion, 54-64 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2369-7278. Nita Fashion — G/F, 16 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721-9990, www.nitafashions.com.
Punjab House — 5/F, Suite C, Golden Crown Court, 66-70 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-6612, www.punjabhouse.com.hk. Raja Fashion — G/F, 34C Cameron Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-7624, www.raja-fashions.com. REGAL fashion — LG/F, Shop 8-9, Houston Centre, 63 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-6007. Sam’s Tailor — Shop K, Burlington Arcade, 92-94 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-9423. Shaniel Custom Tailor — G/F, Shop B & C, Comfort Building, 86-88A Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2730-1287. August 2013 I WHERE HONG KONG 45
Navigate | The Guide
Tourist Information HONG KONG TOURISM BOARD — The Hong Kong Tourism Board is ready to answer all your questions about travel in Hong Kong. Look for visitor centers at the following locations: Hong Kong International Airport (at Buffer Halls A and B, Arrivals Level, Terminal 1); Lo Wu (Arrival Hall, 2/F Lo Wu Terminal Building); Kowloon (Star Ferry Concourse, Tsim Sha Tsui, open daily 8am-8pm); and The Peak Piazza (between The Peak Tower and The Peak Galleria, Hong Kong Island, open daily 9am-9pm). You can also call their Visitor Hotline (2508-1234) from 9am to 6pm. Visit www.discoverhonghong.com for descriptions of attractions plus shopping, dining and touring tips. The website also has a comprehensive description of the month’s events and festivals as well as virtual tours, e-cards, a photo gallery and handy downloadable apps for your phone.
Hong Kong has a great public transportation system called the MTR, as well as highly punctual, carefully scheduled buses (with their routes clearly printed in English). Renting a car can be a headache because roads can be confusing and parking costly. It’s cheaper and easier to take a taxi, ferry, tram, bus, hotel limousine, or even a helicopter.
These are “wave-and-go” stored-value cards used across all of Hong Kong’s transportation systems, and in retail outlets like car parks and convenience stores.
Taxis Taxis are readily available at reasonable prices. Be aware that drivers cannot pick up or drop off on roads marked with double yellow lines, and no waiting is allowed except on unmarked roads. Red taxis serve Hong Kong Island and Kowloon and can go anywhere in the territory. Green taxis cost less but only serve the New Territories. Similarly, blue taxis serve Lantau Island only. Drivers generally speak some English but it is wise to get the hotel staff to write your destination in Chinese characters, or point to one of the destinations in this guide.
The size of a credit card, the Octopus is simply placed on the touch pads at the entrance to public transportation or the cash register in shops. Payment is automatically deducted. Cards can be refilled at MTR stations and any retail outlet that accepts them. Three types of Octopus cards are available. The “On Loan Octopus” costs $150, which includes a $50 deposit and $100 of stored value. The “Sold Octopus” costs $70, and does not include any stored value. The “Airport Express Tourist Octopus” costs $220/$300 and includes one/two single Airport Express journeys and three days of unlimited rides on the MTR, $20 stored value and a $50 deposit.
Trams have been a part of Hong Kong life for more than 100 years. With a $2.30 flat fare, they are still the cheapest way to get around.
46 WHERE HONG KONG I August 2013
Navigate | The Guide
Tasting Trail Discover Hong Kong through a food-tasting tour that takes you from streetside stalls to noodle shops. By Kiki Elijandy Self-proclaimed foodie Cecilia Leung and her sister founded Hong Kong Foodie Tour, the city’s first licensed food tour company, two years ago. The avid traveller—who has been to no less than 34 countries—enjoys savoring local delights while on vacation and hopes to provide the same kind of enlightenment for visitors to Hong Kong. Leung tells us there’s simply no better way to explore Hong Kong than with a food tour that will help educate tourists about the city’s authentic traditions. The Leung sisters sampled numerous eateries in the city to come up with a special itinerary for their original Central & Sheung Wan Foodie Tour, as well as the newly launched Sham Shui Po Foodie Tour that debuted a few months ago. The Central & Sheung Wan tour starts on Queen’s Road Central. “We keep our tours very small. The Central & Sheung Wan tour only takes a maximum of 12 people,” Leung explains. “The other one in Sham Shui Po only has a maximum of eight participants—we keep it very intimate to allow interaction within the group.” The tours whirl through tucked-away streets and alleyways to illustrate the nitty gritty side of Hong Kong cuisine.
Buses Hong Kong has two major bus companies: Kowloon Motor Bus — www.kmb.hk, 2745-4466. citybus / New World First BUS — www.nwfb.com.hk, 2136-8888.
Sights & Attractions
Avenue of Stars
AVENUE OF STARS — Fans of Hong Kong movies will find their heroes’ hand- and footprints permanently etched in concrete along the Avenue of the Stars, along with a statue of martial artist Bruce Lee. Go at 8pm for the nightly Symphony of Lights. Music plays over loudspeakers here and nowhere else, although the light display can be seen from around the city. Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront. 48 WHERE HONG KONG I August 2013
The Sheung Wan tour begins at Tsim Chai Kee on Wellington Street, where participants get to slurp up some tasty wonton soup noodles. Then it’s onto Dim Sum Square for—yes, you guessed it— dim sum, or Cantonese-style snacks and dishes served in bite-sized portions. The nearly four-hour tour ends at Hei Lee Cake Shop in Sheung Wan, where egg tarts—a local custard dessert— beckon from shelves of baked goods. Hong Kong Foodie Tour tries to accommodate everyone, including those with dietary restrictions and special requests. Even at a char siu (Cantonesestyle barbecue pork) restaurant, vegetarians will be able to enjoy some meat-free dishes accompanied with a bowl of rice and local-style sauces. Getting hungry and don’t know where to go? A local culinary experience is just a phone call away. Hong Kong Foodie Tour operates every Monday to Saturday, starting at 2:15pm. Tickets can be purchased at www.hongkongfoodietours.com or 2850-5006. Tickets are $490 (ages 5-14) or $690 (15 and up).
BANK OF CHINA TOWER — I. M. Pei designed this 70-story building and bank headquarters to resemble stalks of bamboo. 1 Garden Rd., Central. BIG BUDDHA (大佛) — One of the world’s largest Buddhas, the Tian Tan Buddha took 10 years to build and sits on a lotus throne atop Lantau Island. The more than 200 steps to the top are open from 10am to 5:30pm daily and definitely recommended for the spectacular mountain views. Special admission tickets are available and include a vegetarian meal. Also check out the nearby Po Lin Monastery. Take the MTR to Tung Chung Station and then Bus 23 to Ngong Ping. CHI LIN NUNNERY—An oasis of peace in the heart of Kowloon, this graceful, wooden Buddhist nunnery is the largest building in the world to be constructed using no nails—only wooden dowels and brackets. It’s a 33,000-square-meter complex whose architectural style dates back to the Tang Dynasty, although the buildings themselves were completed in 1998. It’s centered on a courtyard filled with lotus ponds. Vegetarian food is available. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill, 2354-1888.
CONVENTION AND EXHIBITION CENTRE — Finished in time to host the handover ceremony in July 1997, the center’s roof was designed to look like a seagull’s wings in flight. 1 Expo Drive, Wan Chai, 2582-8888. HONG KONG DISNEYLAND — Take a trip back to the 1900s on Main Street, catch a train to Fantasyland, float down the Rivers of Adventure, catch a show or blast through outer space in Tomorrowland. When you’re done charting your exotic surroundings take a moment to dine, shop or cavort with the various Disney characters who roam the park. It’s easy to get to via MTR, bus or car. See the website for transportation details. Lantau Island, 1-830-830, park.hongkongdisneyland.com. Hong Kong Dolphinwatch — Catch a glimpse of the pink dolphins, an animal so unique to these waters that it was named the official mascot of Hong Kong’s 1997 handover. Tours depart every Wed, Fri and Sun from the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Central at 8:30am, and the Kowloon Hotel in Tsim Tsa Tsui at 9am. The cruise takes up to three hours, and if no dolphins are seen, the company provides a free “go-again guarantee.” $320 for adults, $160 for children under 12 years, with proceeds going to dolphin research. Call 2984-1414 or visit www.hkdolphinwatch.com.
Navigate | The Guide
HONG KONG ZOOLOGICAL AND BOTANICAL GARDENS — Home to eight endangered species, the zoo successfully breeds rare birds and orangutans. Established in 1864, the park retains all the Victorian accents from that era and is an idyllic spot in the middle of the city. Admission free. Open daily 6am-7pm. Garden Rd., Central. A staircase from Upper Albert Rd. leads to the main entrance.
shops and various attractions at the Peak Galleria and Peak Tower. The tram runs daily 7am-midnight, tickets $25 one-way, $36 round trip. Bus No. 15C runs between Peak Tram lower terminus and Central, near the Star Ferry. It costs $4.20 for a single journey. Garden Road and Cotton Tree Drive, 2522-0922. SIK SIK YUEN WONG TAI SIN TEMPLE — This active Buddhist temple is large and colorful with beautiful adjoining gardens. Have your fortune told by palm readers in the main arcade. Open 7am-5:30pm. A small donation is expected. Follow signs from Wong Tai Sin MTR stop. 2328-0270.
Man Mo Temple
Sam’s The Man (Just ask his customers)
MAN MO TEMPLE (文武廟) — This temple was built in 1847 to honor the God of Literature, Man Cheong, and the God of War, Mo Tai. A grade-1 historical building, it is one of biggest tourist attractions in Central. Star Ferry
Sam’s Tailor, Shop K, Burlington Arcade, 92-94 Nathan Road, Tsimshatsui, Kowloon. Tel: (852) 2367 9423 / 2721 8375 Fax: (852) 2311 8147
Ngong Ping 360
NGONG PING 360 — Home to a theater, teahouse, nature center, cultural themed village and more, Ngong Ping 360 is best known for its 5.7-kilometer cable-car service that offers panoramic views of Lantau Island’s lush valleys, the South China Sea and the world-famous Tian Tan Buddha. Take the MTR to Tung Chung Station and walk two minutes to the cable-car terminal. OPEN-TOP BUS TOUR — One Big Bus day tour ticket includes 24 hour hop-on-hop-off access to the red tour (Hong Kong Island) and the blue tour (Kowloon), as well as prerecorded commentary in eight languages and other perks. Unit 501, 5/F, No.1 Minden Avenue, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2723-2108.
PEAK TRAM AND VICTORIA PEAK — The world’s steepest funicular railway hauls passengers up Victoria Peak in approximately eight minutes. Once at the top, enjoy panoramic views of the city, or check out the restaurants, 50 WHERE HONG KONG I August 2013
STAR FERRY (天星小輪) — Cross Victoria Harbour between Hong Kong Island and the Kowloon Peninsula on the Star Ferry. These open-deck ferries are one of Hong Kong’s most recognizable attractions and a common, cheap—and pleasant—form of transportation. Take the MTR to Central or Tsim Sha Tsui and follow the signs. ST. JOHN’S CATHEDRAL (聖約翰座堂) — A beautiful cathedral built in the shape of a cross. Open daily from 7am to 6pm for quiet prayer and meditation. Take the MTR to Central.
Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery
TEN THOUSAND BUDDHAS MONASTERY — One of the most celebrated monasteries in Hong Kong, the Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery actually has more than 12,800 Buddhas stored in five temples, four pavilions and a nine-story pagoda. The one that you’re likely to remember best is the mummified Buddhist monk, who sits in splendor, coated in gold leaf, inside a glass case. Light meals are served at the on-site vegetarian restaurant. Sha Tin MTR, Exit B, 2691-1067, www.10kbuddhas.org.
TAI O — This charming fishing village is a maze of stilt houses built over a creek on the very tip of Lantau Island. It’s a fascinating slice of old Hong Kong, with dried fish stalls, the picturesque Tin Hau Temple and a couple of interesting little museums. Take a ferry from Central.
Embassies & Consulates Argentina 2523-3208; Australia 2827-8881; Bangladesh 2827-4278; Belgium 2524-3111; Brazil 2525-7002; Canada 3719-4700; Chile 2827-1826; China (China Travel) 2853-3888; Columbia 2545-8547; Czech Republic 28022212; Egypt 2827-0668; Finland 2525-5385; France 3752-9900; Germany 2105-8788; Greece 2774-1682; India 2528-4028; Israel 2821-7500; Italy 2522-0033; Japan 2522-1184; Korea 2529-4141; Laos 2544-1186; Malaysia 2821-0800; Mexico 2511-3305; Netherlands 2522-5127; New Zealand 2525-5044; Pakistan 2827-1966; Philippines 2823-8500; Peru 2868-2622; Poland 2840-0779; Russia 2877-7188; Singapore 2527-2212; Spain 2525-3041; Sweden 2521-1212; Switzerland 2522-7147; Taiwan (Chung Hwa Travel Service) 2530-1187; Thailand 2521-6481; Turkey 2572-1331; United Arab Emirates 2866-1823; United Kingdom 2901-3000; USA 2523-9011; Venezuela 2730-8099; Vietnam 2591-4510.
Financial Matters Generally, business hours are weekdays 9am-5pm, with a lunch hour from 1pm-2pm, and Saturdays 9am-1pm. The local currency is the Hong Kong dollar. There is no central mint; instead, notes are issued by three separate private banks and the city’s Monetary Authority. The Hong Kong dollar is pegged to the US dollar at a rate of approximately US$1 to HK$7.79. Denominations include $10, $20, $50, $100, $500 and $1,000 notes. Coins come in denominations of 10, 20 and 50 cents, and one, two, five and 10 dollars. BANKS — Major banks are open weekdays 9am-4:30pm, and Saturdays 9am-12:30pm. Banks are closed Sundays and public holidays. Some services, such as foreign exchange-related transactions, are not available at banks one hour before closing. The following details are for the banks’ main offices, call for retail locations: Bank of America, Bank of America Tower, 12 Harcourt Rd., Central, 2847-5588; Citibank, Citibank Tower, 3 Garden Rd., Central, 2868-8888; HSBC, 29 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2233-3000; Standard Chartered Bank, 4 Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2868-2154.
Our readers love to learn! Call our sales department at 2850-5678 August 2013 I WHERE HONG KONG 51
Walking Tours | The Guide Cross Nathan Road to the Park Lane Shopper’s Boulevard.
Park Lane Shopper’s Boulevard
Tsim Sha Tsui (known locally as TST) is home to a variety of historic buildings, fascinating museums, the Hong Kong Cultural Centre, chic restaurants and modern shopping malls. The scenic waterfront promenade also offers some of the best views of Victoria Harbour and the mesmerizing Hong Kong skyline.
Bustling with customers day and night, this distinctive shopping mall offers a variety of local and international brandname stores. Open 10am-11pm daily. Enter Kowloon Park through the entrance next to the mosque. Follow the signs to the Hong Kong Heritage Discovery Center.
Hong Kong Heritage Discovery Center
Leave Jordan MTR station at exit D. After exiting the station, turn left, walk along Nathan Road and turn left onto Hillwood Road.
Hillwood Road This is a hangout favored by locals, with a fun collection of bars and a selection of restaurants serving Asian cuisine. Walk down the steps at the end of Hillwood Road, turn right and walk along Austin Avenue and Kimberley Road. Stay on the right, and then turn right onto Observatory Road. At Knutsford Terrace, turn left.
Knutsford Terrace/ Knutsford Steps Featuring a wide variety of exotic cuisine and several bars, this hotbed of international culinary offerings will have something for every palate. Walk along Knutsford Terrace. Turn left and then right along Kimberley Road. Walk to the end of the street and turn right.
52 WHERE HONG KONG I August 2013
Former Kowloon British School This architectural gem is the oldest surviving school building constructed for foreign residents of Hong Kong. (The school opened in 1902.) The building is a unique Victorian structure, adapted to the steamy local climate with wide verandahs, high ceilings and a pitched roof. Today, it houses the Antiquities and Monuments Office.
Part of what used to be the British army’s Whitfield Barracks, the building that now houses the Hong Kong Heritage Discovery Center was constructed circa 1910 and includes an exhibition gallery, reference library and activity room that are open to the public. Open 10am6pm Mondays to Saturdays (closed on Thursdays) and 10am-7pm on Sundays and public holidays. Call 2208-4400. Leave Kowloon Park the same way you entered. Walk along Nathan Road towards the waterfront. Enter the MTR East Tsim Sha Tsui station via exit L3, go through the pedestrian tunnel to exit J and follow the directional signs to the Avenue of Stars.
Avenue of Stars Along this waterfront promenade, you can see plaques, handprints and statues honoring celebrities from the silver screen as well as those behind the camera. Also, enjoy the great harbor views. Walk back along the promenade to the Hong Kong Museum of Art, the Hong Kong Space Museum and the Hong Kong Cultural Centre.
St. Andrew’s Church stands next to the former Kowloon British School.
St. Andrew’s Church Imagine early worshippers arriving via the main means of transportation of the day: rickshaws and sedan chairs.
Avenue of Stars
Hong Kong Museum of Art Discover the beauty of Chinese antiquities, fine art and calligraphy. Open 10am-6pm, Mondays to Wednesdays, Fridays, Sundays and public holidays; 10am-8pm on Saturdays; closed on Thursdays. Call 2721-0116.
What happened at the Pinewood Battery? *
Hong Kong Space Museum Learn all about astronomy and space technology. Open 1pm-9pm, Mondays and Wednesdays to Fridays; 10am-9pm on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays. Closed Tuesdays. Call 2721-0226.
Hong Kong Cultural Centre Experience classic performing arts of both western and Asian origins. Near the end of the promenade, you’ll see the clock tower.
Clock Tower Part of the original Kowloon-Canton Railway terminus, the clock tower was completed—and started ticking—in 1921. Cross Salisbury Road to Star House and check out 1881 Heritage/Hullett House on your right.
1881 Heritage/ Hullett House This site was occupied by the Hong Kong Marine Police as headquarters from the 1880s till 1996. The building’s unique Victorian architecture is a symbol of its rich colonial background. It now houses a shopping mall, a boutique hotel, restaurants and bars. Harbour City is on the other side of Canton Road.
Harbour City/Canton Road/Peking Road Harbour City is one of the largest shopping and entertainment centers in Hong Kong, with more than 700 shops and restaurants offering local and international fare. Open daily, 10am-9pm. Adjacent to Harbour City, along Canton Road and Peking Road, you’ll find stores from leading brands.
*Learn about this and other fascinating facts in
Historical Hong Kong Hikes A guide to 15 remarkable treks, detailing the rich history of the SAR’s peaks, valleys and urban neighborhoods
In all major bookstores now! Or order yours at: www.historicalhkhikes.com with free delivery.
August 2013 I WHERE HONG KONG 53
街 孝 忠 St
M g ar R et ar d
道 主 公
伊利沙伯醫院 Queen Elizabeth Hospital
京士柏運動場 King’s Park Sports Ground
理道 Rd 衛
京士柏 曲棍球場 Hockey Ground
Austin Rd 柯士甸道
Rd oi Ch Yu k
HK Science Museum 香港科學館
Intercontinental Nikko Grand Stanford Regal Hong Kong Royal Garden
Wing On Plaza Garden
重慶大廈 Chungking Mansions
Harbour Plaza Metropolis Hotel
香港紅磡體育館 Hong Kong Coliseum
道 um 館 se 學 u 科 eM c ien
Chatham 漆咸道南 Rd Sout h
尖東碼頭 Tsim Sha Tsui East Ferry Pier
海底隧道 Cross Harbour Tunnel
Signal Hill Garden Sheraton
梳士巴利道 Sali sbu ry R d
香港太空館 HK Space 香港文化中心 Museum Hong Kong Cultural Centre
鐘樓 Clock Tower
紅磡站 Hung Hom
Holiday Inn Mody Rd 麼地道 Golden Mile
Peking Rd E
HK Museum of History 香港歷史 博物館
H 河 an 內 oi 道 Rd
1881 Heritage Mall and Hotel
赫 Ha 德 rt 道 Av e
東道 Rd 廣
龍 r 九
廈 海運大rminal Te Ocean
尖沙咀站 Tsim Sha Tsui
海洋中心 Ocean Centre
Marco Polo HK
Kow Marco Polo Gateway
道 金巴利 ley Rd Kimber
清真寺 Kowloon Mosque
Marco Polo Prince
柯 Aus士甸路 tin Ave
tory Rd 天 va 文 er 臺 道 Ob 台 諾士佛ford Terr Knuts Windsor
HK Observatory 香港天文台
聖安德烈堂 St. Andrews
柏麗大道 Park Lane Shoppers’ Blvd
香港理工大學 Hong Kong Polytechnic University
道 Hillwood Rd 山林
尖沙咀警署 TST Police Station
海港城 Harbour City
槍會山軍營 Gun Club Hill Barracks
九龍木球會 Kowloon Cricket Club
Tak Shing St 德成街
街 Kwun Chung St 官涌
街 Bowring St 寶靈
白加 Parke士街 s St 吳松街 Woosu ng St
里 h 佐敦 Pat dan Jor 道 d 覺士 ’s R Cox
廟 Tem 街 p le St 上 Shan海街 ghai S t
北 ort 道 N 咸 Rd 漆 am h at Ch
th 漆咸 道南
志和街 Chi Wo St
Cross Harbour Tunnel 海底隧道
g un Ch
油麻地 YAU MA TEI
ry St n Rd
道 Nathan Rd 彌敦
北海 Pak H 街 oi St
St 渡船 街
晴 Wai偉 Chin街 g St
MTR Station 地鐵站
s es inc
Caritas Bianchi Lodge
街 St 街市
Police Station 警署
街 ai St 上海 Shangh
街 新填地 ation St Reclam
澄平街 St ng Ching Pi
天文台氣象站 Meteorological Station
Market 玉器市場 Jade Market 油麻地警署 甘肅 Yau Ma Tei Kansu街 St 夜市 Police Station Night Market
夜市 Night Market
何文田山道 Ho Man Tin Hill Rd
油麻地站 Yau Ma Tei
理道 d衛 lie R
眾坊街 re St Squa Publice
St Portland 砵蘭街
窩 打 老 道
W ate rlo o
香港藝術館 HK Museum of Art
天星碼頭 Star Ferry Pier
54 W HERE HONG KONG I August 2013
尖東站 East Tsim Sha Tsui 新世界中心 New World Centre Intercontinental
New World Renaissance
尖沙咀 TSIM SHA TSUI
星光大道 Avenue of Stars
apr il 2013
the complet e guide to
Where to go? Where Hong Kong is your monthly digital tour guide to Hong Kong, perfect for city-dwellers and friends and visitors alike. From the coolest new restaurants to the can’t-miss sightseeing spots, taking an issue of Where Hong Kong on the go is like putting a local Hongkonger in your back pocket. Subscribe to our e-book now at http://hk-magazine.com/user/register
Raise a Glass The best new bars in
JU ly 2013 gUide to go comple te the
Luxury Brunch es Art GALLeries custom cheonG sAms
hes Saucy Dis ea k, th Have a st
y Ko ng wa e Ho ng
pHOTOS Tai O, in Spa in w nail HOT ne wan SHeunG
MTR Station 地鐵站
Y Tram 電車
maps Hong Kong
咀 a Ts
Ts 尖 im S
cau Ferry Terminal 港澳直升機停機坪
ong Kong-Macau Helicopter Pad
Government Pier Pier 2 Pier 3 Outly Pier 4 ing Is lands Pier 5 Ferry Man Pier 6 Piers Kwo 離島 ng S 統一碼頭道 Pier 7 渡輪 t Man Po St 民 Pier Rd 碼頭 民光 寶街 (Star Ferry 街 天星小輪) Fi
信德中心 un Tak Centre D
Wa L n
St 東街 and
站 ng an
ce St Four Seasons
E4 De E3
香港站 Hong Kong Station Airport Express
維多利亞港 Victoria Harbour
nY iu S
t干 es W
W 雲咸 yn 街 dh am
道 d 畢 tR 厘 er 亞 lb 下 er A w Lo
雅 Alb 賓利 any 道 Rd
道 德 uit Rd nd
Ga r 花 den 園 R 道 d
Tim W a Ave
la to r
St W y ndh a m Rd thnot Arbu
e Ce lley nt St ra lE s
t in S Elg 近 街 伊利
街 利 St 丹 ey 士 tanl 街 St 頓 n S 靈 to 威 lling e W
堅 ed nn y Rd
56 W HERE HONG KONG I August 2013
de 甸 街 en St
IFC 國金一期 Mall One E1 ntr 國金商場 國金二期 al IFC Two Ma D ral 皇后 t n n H arb Ce 大 E2 Ch IFC d R The e 道 s 港 ou A1 ung een’ 中 景 r Center St 街 Vi Gou t t ew S gh S S t歌 A2 St ee ria l i 賦 o b t 街 ntique Ju B1 B2 Vic n sS L n 郵政總局 交易廣場 h ee ee t Exchange C General Qu n Y ger S W a in o 中環站 Sq t nnPost Office M ott au Edinb n S t ECentral P g urgh ue S Y Pl i n 怡和大廈 C A L ue Y Jardine Li Lung House Lyndhurst Terr 香港大會堂 B Wui St 士 n Rd City Hall L au 丹 龍匯 e C E r 頓 t n a 道 OHO ton 街 e Mandarin Central F t Th D St Oriental Barracks 街er S 干 打 J3 Connau諾 道 中 街 t Chat H 畢 edd G ght er Rd 立 lar S P 置地 Rd C Prince’s 己 ui 遮打道 trl J3 廣場 g J1 德 Bldg A 域多利監獄 ’ Landmark Landmark D J2 Legislative 琳 Victoria L amb Bank of Mandarin 街 Ch Council 蘭桂坊 豐 Chamber 遮打花園 anc Prison 利 America Oriental Lan Kwai 些 ery 街 總行大廈 Wlk Tower Chater Garden Ln 廠 HSBC Bldg 海富中心 Fong 德 雪 Admiralty Dra 立街 Quee M k n os t eS Centre A 皇后大 ’s Rd Central t qu 中銀大廈 E2 sq Lippo eS 道 s 中 e 長江集團中心 ue C2 Bank of B Tower2 ou St Admiralty H Jc Cheung Kong China Tower t D Ice Centre E1 金鐘廊 Upper Albert R 路 Lippo Tower1 Queensway 統一中心 上亞厘畢道 棉 United 紅 Plaza C1 F 高等法院 Dr QueenswCentre e Co 干 ay 金鐘 High Court e Govt. r 道 T 香港動植物公園 n Building Glen 太古廣場 tto Sup The Hong Kong o Mar rem C Peak Tram Island Pacific Zoological and e Place Terminus Co Shangri-La Botanical Gardens ur 溫室 山頂纜車總站 tR Conservatory 道 d 嘉諾撒醫院 Conrad 正義 園 香港公園 Ke 花 r Canossa Hospital d Hong Kong Park R eD c n i t e s rd Ju Aviary 觀鳥園 Ga E1
TSIM SHA TSUI Y
博 Exp覽道 oD r
Expo Dr Centra
博覽道東 Expo Dr East
會議及展覽中心 Convention and Exhibition Centre
盧押道 Luard Rd
分域街 Fenwick St
Rd O’Brien 道 柯布連
Fenwic k St
Perform Arts Aving e
an 灣 Cha 仔 iR 道 d
mo yS t Tun g St Garden
t ai Yuen S n L h lla Nu
nc St is S . t
Bowrington Rd 寶靈頓道
Rd Chai an 仔道 W 灣 道 愛群 n Rd wa Oi K
kL n Lo
Canal Rd E 堅拿道東 Canal Rd W 堅拿道西
軒尼詩道 Jo Hennessy Rd hn 譚臣道 A5 莊 sto Thomson Rd B1 d 譚臣道 Qu 士 nR Thomson R A4 敦 d ee 道 道 Southorn B2 n’s 莊士敦 Rd Playground A3 ston Rd hn Jo Ea st 修頓球場 皇 后 大 道 東 A2
灣仔站 Wan Chai
斐道 Jaffe Rd 謝
Metropark Wan Chai
道 Rd 告士打 Gloucester
銅鑼 Cau Bay 克道
d ffe R
港灣徑 Dr Harbour
道 老誌 d杜 yR
灣仔 WAN CHAI 道 史釗域 Rd Stewart
y 金鐘站 Harcourt Garden
Harbour Rd 中環廣場 灣仔政府大樓 Central Wan Chai Tower Plaza 稅務大樓 入境事務大樓 Revenue Immigration Tower Tower
灣仔運動場 Wan Chai Sports Ground
Renaissance Harbour View
道 Rd g 鴻興 Hin g Hun
菲 Fleming Rd
Fenwick Pier St 香港演藝學院 HK Academy for Performing Arts
Cross H Tunnel 海
登龍 g Tan 羅 R
時代廣 Times Squar
里n 交加 ss L d 2013 I WHERE HONG KONG 57 Cro August R d o o 跑馬地運動 W
30 Things we LOve about Hong Kong 2
1 Shopping at Times Square.
9 Snaking through the
1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay.
high-rises on the Mid-Levels Escalator—the longest in the world. Cochrane, Shelley and Peel Streets, Central.
2 Marveling at the beautiful Chi Lin Nunnery, the world’s largest building constructed without nails. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill, 2354-1604.
3 Visiting the Kun Yam Temple. Kun Yam Street, Jordan.
4 Dining aboard the kitschycool Jumbo Floating Restaurant. Shum Wan Pier Drive, Wong Chuk Hang, Aberdeen, 2553-9111.
5 Riding a cable car 5.7 kilometers over Lantau’s lush valleys to visit the Ngong Ping cultural village and the Big Buddha.
6 Being fitted for a tailor-made suit. Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui.
7 Shopping for antique kitsch on Cat Street (Upper Lascar Row) in Sheung Wan.
8 Cheering on jockeys at the Happy Valley Racecourse on Wednesdays starting September 12. Visit www.hkjc.com for info.
!0 Taking a walk down the Historic Trail at the Museum of Coastal Defense. 2569-1500. !1 Eating with the locals at a dai pai dong food stall. Gough Street, Central. !2 Getting a shave and a trim at the Mandarin Barber. 5 Connaught Rd.,Central, 2522-0111. !3 Exploring Lamma Island, then feasting on deep-fried squid at Rainbow Seafood. 23-25 First St., Sok Kwu Wan, Lamma Island, 2982-8100. !4 Having our palms read at Temple Street Night Market. Temple Street, Yau Ma Tei. !5 Sipping on decadent cocktails while taking in the spectacular view at Eyebar. 30/F, iSquare, 63 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2487-3988.
58 WHERE HONG KONG I August 2013
!6 Taking one of the oldest rides in Hong Kong—a tram from Western Market in Sheung Wan to Causeway Bay.
@4 Buying witty chinoiserie at Shanghai Tang's beautiful new flagship mansion. 1 Duddell St., Central, 2525-7333.
!7 Cruising Victoria Harbour on the Duk Ling, an authentic Chinese junk. 2573-5282.
@5 Watching the sunset from tranquil Pui O Beach. Lantau Island.
!8 Being entertained by the intriguing performances and exhibitions at the Fringe Club. 2 Lower Albert Rd., Central, 2521-7251.
@6 Snacking on delicious egg tarts at Tai Cheong Bakery. 32 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, 8300-8301.
!9 Marveling at the Symphony of Lights show over Victoria Harbour at 8pm every night. @0 Haggling with hawkers for jade, gold and cheap jewelry at the Jade Market. Kansu and Battery Streets, Yau Ma Tei. @1 Dressing up for high tea at The Peninsula. Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2696-6772. @2 Taking a ride on the Peak Tram. 33 Garden Rd., Central, 2522-0922. @3 Doing some late-night shopping on Sai Yeung Choi Street in Mong Kok.
@7 Seeing our animated favorites come to life at Hong Kong Disneyland. Lantau Island, 1-830-830. @8 Stopping for tea at Fook Ming Tong Tea Shop. Shop 3316, 3/F, The Gateway, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2735-1077. @9 Spending the afternoon at the mall. Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2844-8988. #0 Slurping oysters for brunch at Cafe Deco. Shop 1, 1/F, Peak Galleria, 188 Peak Rd., The Peak, 2849-5111.
Arch Angel Authenticated museum quality Asian antiquities. 53/55 Hollywood Road • Central • Hong Kong • Tel: (852) 2851 6848 • Fax: (852) 2851 6778 • Open Daily: 9:30-6:30 Email: antiques@ArchAngelAntiques.com.hk