WHERE Guestbook Hong Kong 2014-2015

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WELCOME TO HONG KONG



CONTENTS

HK STORIES 18 FIRST LOOK Markets, mountains, temples and beaches.

30 NAVIGATE THE NEIGHBORHOODS So many distinctive districts to choose from.

42 A SHORT STORY Three new height-challenged architectural projects in the city.

50 EAT LIKE A LOCAL Hong Kong’s quintessential treats.

60 HONG KONG CONFIDENTIAL Find out where the locals go.

36 DIZZYING HEIGHTS A vertigo-inducing view of Hong Kong.

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CONTENTS

HK INFO 64 SHOPPING Shop till you drop.

82 DINING & NIGHTLIFE The city’s hottest restaurants and bars.

116 LEISURE Hong Kong’s top attractions.

130 SPAS Get pampered.

138 MUSEUMS & GALLERIES All about culture.

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Acknowledged as the world’s best chronograph, it is a descendant of the legendary El Primero fi rst unveiled in 1969 and proudly bears the iconic colours of the first high-frequency automatic column-wheel chronograph calibre. Beating at a rate of 36,000 vibrations per hour, this daring feat embodies the exceptional expertise of the Manufacture.

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where GUESTBOOK™ ®

HONG KONG

Greg Crandall Zach Hines EDITOR Adele Wong CHINESE EDITOR Scarlett Wong PRODUCTION MANAGER Blackie Hui ART DIRECTOR Pierre Pang DESIGNERS Cecilia Cheng, Mike Hung

PUBLISHER AND GENERAL MANAGER EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Nick Marsh, Jayson Albano, William Hodson MARKETING & DISTRIBUTION

James Gannaban, Charmaine Mirandilla PHOTOGRAPHY

Various, including Christopher Luk DIRECTOR OF SALES

Gary Wong STRATEGY SALES DIRECTOR

Jan Cheng ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR

Joe Ng ADVERTISING MANAGERS

Arthur Au Yeung, Keiko Ko

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS CREATIVE

Haines Wilkerson Martin DESIGN DIRECTOR Jane Frey PHOTOGRAPHY DIRECTOR Susan Strayer CREATIVE COORDINATOR Beverly Mandelblatt CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER

SENIOR EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Margaret

PRODUCTION DIRECTOR OF MANUFACTURING

Donald Horton

HK MAGAZINE MEDIA GROUP 301 Hollywood Centre, 233 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong Phone: 852.2850.5065; Fax: 852.2543.1880; Website: www.hk-magazine.com Where GuestBook is produced globally by Morris Visitor Publications (MVP), a division of Morris Communications, Co., LLC. MVP publishes Where Magazine, Where QuickGuides, In New York and In London magazines, and a host of other maps, guides and directories for business and leisure travelers, and is the publisher for the Hospitality Industry Association. Copyright© 2014 by Where Hong Kong Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, in whole or in part, without the express prior written permission of the publisher. The publisher assumes no responsibility to any party for the content of any advertisement in this publication, including any errors and omissions therein. By placing an order for an advertisement, the advertiser agrees to indemnify the publisher against any claims relating to the advertisement. Before you decide to purchase or use the products and/or services that our magazine introduces, you should gather further information about the same in addition to the representations or advertising contents in our magazine. *The contents in articles by guest authors are the author’s personal views only and do not represent the position of our magazine or our company. Please gather further information about the products and/ or services before you decide to purchase or use the same.* Printed in Hong Kong

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First

Look

HOLLYWOOD ROAD

Like a museum with price tags, Hollywood Road is the beating heart of the Chinese antiques trade. Stuffed to bursting with Buddhas, ceramics, Ming furniture, mandarin robes and antiquities, every other shop seems to be either an antique store or an art gallery. It all makes for great browsing. You’ll find more affordable junk-store knick-knacks and Chinese Communist propaganda on Cat Street (look for signs for Upper Lascar Row). And don’t miss Man Mo Temple, one of the most atmospheric and historic places of worship on the island.

MARKETS, MOUNTAINS, TEMPLES AND BEACHES. HERE ARE HONG KONG’S TOP 10 ATTRACTIONS.

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BIG BUDDHA

There’s more than one way to get to the Big Buddha on Lantau island, but the most spectacular is via the cable car from Tung Chung to the Ngong Ping 360 Cultural Village. The 25-minute journey takes you high above the airport at Chek Lap Kok, through beautiful South Lantau Country Park, and just about drops you off at the feet of Hong Kong’s record-breaking statue. At 34 meters high and 250 tons, he’s the tallest seated outdoor bronze Buddha on the planet. Climb the 268 steps to get up close to the statue, visit the halls and temples of the Po Lin Monastery Complex, walk the wisdom path through the hills and even stay for a bite to eat at the monks’ vegetarian restaurant. And if you’re in the mood for something more energetic, follow the signs for the Lantau Trail. Stage 3 of this cross-island walk leads from the monastery to the summit of the 934-meter Lantau peak, a strenuous hour-long trek that will reward you with stunning views of the South China Sea.

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OCEAN PARK

Hong Kong’s homegrown theme park combines fishy exhibitions with cool rides. Spread over 870,000 square meters on a lovely headland on the south side of Hong Kong Island, the park is split into two zones joined by a cable car system. Roller coasters, water rides and carousels rub shoulders with a giant panda enclosure, walk-through shark tank and four-story tropical aquarium. A favorite is the funky Sea Jelly Spectacular, where jellyfish undulate in neon-lit tanks. Keeping things interesting is a rotating program of shows and events, including a permanent dolphin show and seasonal specials like man-made snow at Christmas and a scary Halloween extravaganza. Book ahead for the Dolphin Encounter, a chance to get up close and personal with the friendly creatures. 20

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HAPPY VALLEY RACECOURSE

For first-timers, the Happy Valley Racecourse is a surreal sight— it’s not often you see a world-class track surrounded by residential high-rises. Built on a swamp in 1845, today it’s a multi-million-dollar business. Most Wednesdays, and some Saturdays, during race season (September to mid-June), find thousands of eager punters packed into the towering stands, roaring the horses down the home straight and then showering the crowds below with losing betting slips. Join the masses or do it in style in one of the boxes. It’s an intense, unforgettable experience—especially if you back a winner.

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VICTORIA HARBOUR

The “Fragrant Harbour” is the bustling heart of Hong Kong. It’s the city’s reason for being: a sheltered, deep-water port that divides Hong Kong Island from Kowloon Peninsula. It’s smaller than it used to be, thanks to 150 years of land reclamation, but with its fringe of iconic towers set against emerald mountains, the harbor just screams Hong Kong. And there’s no better way to see it than by Star Ferry. The famous green-and-white boats depart every few minutes, transporting 26 million people a year on a five-minute journey across one of the world’s busiest waterways. Travel by day in air-conditioned comfort on the top deck, but at night, try the more romantic tungsten-lit lower level, and watch the neon reflections dancing on the waves.

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LAN KWAI FONG & SOHO

Long the nightlife hub of Hong Kong Island, Lan Kwai Fong comes alive after dark as business and creative types pack the bars and clubs of the tiny streets above Central. Since Disco Disco opened back in the 1980s, the nightlife area has spread, virus-like, along Wyndham Street to Lyndhurst Terrace and into myriad ladder streets and back alleys, where trendy bars and beautiful restaurants have sprung up in the unlikeliest places. With the arrival of the Mid-Levels Escalator in the early 1990s, the entertainment area sprawled up to Staunton and Elgin Streets, soon renamed SoHo (South of Hollywood Road) and now massed with fashionable restaurants serving just about every cuisine on the planet.

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THE PEAK

Most visitors to Hong Kong take a trip up to The Peak for the same reason: the view. Choose a clear day, and the whole city is laid out at your feet. A triumph of Victorian engineering, the Peak Tram puffs 373 meters up the world’s steepest funicular railway every 12 minutes, chugging up the mountain at an alarming 45-degree angle. (Sit on the right for the best views.) At the top, you’ll find the Peak Tower and a host of attractions, including Madame Tussauds, shops and some great restaurants. The 45-minute Peak Circle Walk along Lugard and Harlech Roads offers continuously changing views of Central, the western harbor approaches and the south side of the island, passing magnificent banyan trees, waterfalls and picnic grounds.

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STREET MARKETS

Going to street markets is, by all accounts, the best way to experience local culture. Snaking through Prince Edward, Mong Kok and Yau Ma Tei in Kowloon are blocks upon blocks of tightly packed hawkers manning stalls offering bargains on clothes, accessories, tech gadgets, souvenir kitsch and more. At the colorful Temple Street Night Market, have your palm or face read, watch a bird pick your fortune or visit a traditional Chinese astrologer. Amateur Cantonese opera singers perform nightly. Don’t forget to visit the Tin Hau Temple, which gives the street its name. Wrap up a spending spree by kicking back on a plastic stool to enjoy some of Hong Kong’s renowned street food.

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THE COUNTRY PARKS

Escape the claustrophobia of the city by taking to the hills. With Hong Kong’s hidden rainforests, grassy uplands, bamboo groves, waterfalls, islands, cliffs and beaches, it’s no surprise that hiking is one of the city’s favorite pastimes. More than 40 percent of the territory’s tiny landmass is given over to country parks, which are criss-crossed with well-maintained, marked walking tracks for all levels—most within easy access of the city. Easy, relatively short family walks abound, often with placards pointing out interesting flora and fauna. More serious walkers might prefer the challenge of doing a stage or two of the longer trails: the Maclehose in the New Territories, the Lantau trail or the Wilson trail, which crosses the harbor. Dragon’s Back, along the ridge above Shek O on Hong Kong Island, was named best urban hike in the world by Time Asia Magazine, and starts within 20 minutes of Central. Check the weather forecast and take plenty of water, sunscreen and a mobile phone. 26

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LAMMA ISLAND

A quaint hilly outpost to the southwest of Hong Kong Island, this hippie haven is one of the most popular destinations for day-trippers looking to escape the hustle and bustle of downtown. Besides hiking up and down panoramic trails and relaxing on tranquil beaches, catch a glimpse of one of Hong Kong’s oldest fishing communities, whose origins date back some 6,000 years. Explore the island by foot or bike, as cars are prohibited. (The fire and police departments troll around in golf cart-like vehicles.) After all that exercise, fill up with the myriad local seafood delicacies served at the row of restaurants lining the Sok Kwu Wan waterfront. Expect more restaurants and bars, organic food and used book vendors, and jewelry and homeware shops in Yung Shue Wan, the island’s other village. Don’t forget to visit the island’s century-old Tin Hau Temple before catching the ferry back to Central. 28

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Navigate the

Neighborhoods FROM OLD URBAN AREAS TO IDYLLIC BEACH RETREATS, THERE’S PLENTY TO EXPLORE IN HONG KONG’S DISTINCTIVE DISTRICTS.

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SHEUNG WAN

A 10-minute walk and a world away from Central, Sheung Wan is the oldest part of colonial Hong Kong (the British naval fleet landed at Possession Point) and perhaps the most impressive district on the island. It’s a tangle of ladder streets, traditional shops, temples and colonial relics. Entire streets are dedicated to one service: Man Wa Lane is chop street (chops are stamps, pieces of wood, stone or bone with a name carved on the bottom); Wing Lok Street and Bonham Strand are lined with shops selling dried seafood, bird’s nests and traditional Chinese medicine. Hollywood Road is famous for Chinese antiques and contemporary art galleries, and its slightly disreputable neighbor, Cat Street (a.k.a. Upper Lascar Row), is filled with junk shops and Mao memorabilia. Architectural highlights include the colonial-era Western Market and incense-wreathed Man Mo Temple on Hollywood Road.

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WAN CHAI

Gritty rather than glitzy, the old red-light area of this famous nabe can still be found on Lockhart and Jaffe Roads, which is home to pubs, mamasans and dodgy nightclubs—although its Suzie Wong heyday is long over. But these days, you’ll find fashionable urbanites in the district heading to a new upscale entertainment area centered around Ship, Wing Fung and Star Streets. Whatever your poison, Wan Chai is an old area best explored on foot, especially when it comes to the bustling market on Tai Yuen Street and the interesting lanes crammed with tenements between Johnston Road and Queen’s Road East. The Old Wan Chai Post Office is now an environmental center and the start of the steep Green Trail that ends at Wan Chai Gap, halfway up the Peak. Stop off for a morning jog or afternoon stroll along Bowen Road, a level path that hugs the hillside contours above Wan Chai. The district meets the harbor at the Convention and Exhibition Center and Golden Bauhinia Square, popular with mainland tourists. WHERE G UEST B OOK

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CENTRAL

CAUSEWAY BAY

Shopping heaven! There are upscale malls, cheerful markets, local and international designers galore—all open well into the night. The Island Beverly center is chock-full of stalls and shops run by Hong Kong’s budding fashion designers, while Lee Gardens and Times Square are the places to head to for top international labels. Crammed in between are the hawkers and fashion stalls of Jardine’s Bazaar as well as relatively new Hysan Place. Hungry? The area has hundreds of restaurants to choose from, and is a hotspot for Japanese and Korean cuisine. On the waterfront sits the Noonday Gun, which is fired daily. The area is also a sports hub, thanks to the pools, pitches and courts of Victoria Park and, to the south, the Hong Kong Stadium—home of the world-famous annual Rugby Sevens tournament.

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This is the glittering heart of the financial district, where each new tower block strains to outdo the next in height, luxury and cost. Statue Square is the hub of the Hong Kong establishment, so to speak, as it’s bordered by the somewhat incongruous colonial-era Old Supreme Court Building, the HSBC headquarters, the Hong Kong Club and the Mandarin Oriental hotel, with the Bank of China and government offices hovering nearby. Energetic and constantly changing, the Central action shifted northwards with the opening of razor-shaped skyscraper Two IFC and its luxury mall. Take a breather in Hong Kong Park or the Hong Kong Botanical and Zoological Gardens; say hello to the battle-scarred HSBC lions Stephen and Stitt; shop for high fashion at The Landmark, souvenirs at Shanghai Tang and exotic fruits at the Graham Street food market. Then take an outing on the Star Ferry or the Peak Tram at sunset to watch the city draped in a neon glow.


TAI HANG

One of the trendier districts in the city, Tai Hang is a cozy little neighborhood just southeast of Causeway Bay, boasting fewer crowds and a more laid-back vibe than its neighbor. The area is a seamless blend of locals and expats; trendy, upscale eateries and mom-and-pop hole-in-the-walls that have been around for years; luxury apartments and old auto-repair shops and fruit markets. You’ll be spoiled for choice if you want to grab a meal here—if you take an easy amble through the district, you’ll find restaurants serving claypot rice, Japanese ramen, Italian pastas and Chinese desserts (both authentic and inventive). Tai Hang is also home to the Lin Fa Temple, dedicated to the goddess of mercy, which was built during the Qing dynasty; and the annual Fire Dragon Dance, a centuryold tradition that takes place during the Mid-Autumn Festival and features a winding, 67-meter-long dragon glittering and smoking with incense sticks.

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ABERDEEN

This fishing port on the south side of Hong Kong Island has a busy harbor, a lively early-morning fish market and a famous floating restaurant, the kitschy-cool Jumbo Kingdom. It’s quite a sight, smothered with technicolor carvings and golden dragons, all lit up as gaudily as possible at night. It’s a tourist trap, of course, but worth visiting for decent dim sum and the short boat ride through the busy harbor. Nearby is Ocean Park, with rides, aquariums, a large aviary, gardens, a dolphin and sea lion show and a walk-through shark tank. It’s also home to Hong Kong’s only pandas. STANLEY

Once a fishing village with a wet market, a couple of jeans stalls and an egg-tart hawker, Stanley’s famous market is now known for bargain fashion, silk, linen, art and souvenirs, all sold in air-conditioned stores. But there’s more to Stanley than shopping. This charming little town boasts a fine beach, good windsurfing and one of Hong Kong’s oldest Tin Hau temples—look for the skin of the island’s last wild tiger, shot near Stanley Fort. It has a chilled-out vibe, and during weekends the seafront is closed to traffic to allow restaurants to set up tables on the street. Alternatively, pull up a seat on the verandah at colonial-era Murray House, which was moved stone by stone from its original location in Central. It’s now home to several restaurants, all with wonderful views of the bay.

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SHEK O

Just 20 minutes from the city on the southeast coast of Hong Kong Island, sleepy little Shek O village is blessed with a dramatic coastline, including a lovely beach protected by a rocky headland. It’s a gloriously peaceful respite from the city, especially on weekdays when you might be joined on the sand by a paraglider or two. The village has so far escaped development—its streets are too narrow for cars—and it remains a pretty mixture of slightly battered traditional houses and luxurious mansions. It has a bohemian vibe, thanks in part to the surfers attracted by nearby Big Wave Bay. Take a bus or get there the hard way by hiking the Dragon’s Back trail across the spine of Hong Kong Island.

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TSIM SHA TSUI

The heart of the hotel district, Tsim Sha Tsui teems with people. Walking down the main thoroughfare, Nathan Road, can feel a bit like running the gauntlet of tailors and counterfeitwatch salesmen. Instead, head for one of the luxury malls like Harbour City. Home to the Star Ferry, the old Kowloon and Canton Railway Corporation clock tower, the Cultural Center, Space Museum and the Museum of Art, the waterfront offers spectacular views of the Hong Kong Island skyline. Head down at 8pm for the nightly Symphony of Lights, touted as the world’s biggest sound-and-light show, when lasers and floodlights beamed from harbor-front buildings dance in the dark to music played out of loudspeakers lining the Avenue of Stars. The area’s green lung is Kowloon Park, which has a Chinese garden, flamingo pond, maze, sculpture garden and a superb public pool complex. Go early to see the locals practice tai chi. MONG KOK

This is Hong Kong raw. Thronged with crowds, Mong Kok has whole streets dedicated to one commodity, like goldfish (Tung Choi Street), sneakers (Fa Yuen Street), flowers (Flower Market Road) and Chinese wedding and fung shui accessories (Shanghai Street). But it’s the markets that really set this area apart. Ladies’ Market is stuffed to bursting with stalls selling everything from T-shirts to vegetable peelers, although fashionistas may fare better at the outlet shops at the northern end of Fa Yuen Street. Haggle over jewelry at the Jade Market on Kansu and Battery Streets, or visit the Yuen Po Street Bird Garden, where old men walk their caged songbirds and buy them tasty locust treats. Topping them all for sheer exuberance is the Temple Street Night Market, where you can haggle over handbags, try snake soup, catch the amateur opera singers or have your fortune told by palm, face or even bird. And don’t miss the temple itself.

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KOWLOON CITY

Once home to the Kowloon Walled City—a settlement of squatters and refugees said to be the most densely populated urban plot in the world— the eastern Kowloon district has since turned into a foodie’s heaven. A Chinese enclave during colonial times, the area became a dense den of iniquity filled with drug lords, prostitutes and petty crooks after World War II. Triads (local gangs) ruled the area, and the Chinese and British colonial governments both turned a blind eye to the squalor. But in 1993, after five decades of anarchic free-for-all, Kowloon City was finally evacuated and then demolished, with the 31,000-squaremeter Kowloon Walled City Park built in its place. The park’s scenic gardens make for a peaceful place to stroll—you can even glimpse some of the remnants of the old city in the forms of preserved stone plaques. A vast array of cuisines can be sampled here, from French pastries to halal food to hotpot to Thai.

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SAI KUNG

This beautiful peninsula in the rural New Territories is the garden of Hong Kong. The 4,477-hectare Sai Kung Country Park boasts dramatic mountains, lovely beaches, a wild coastline, a public golf course and some of the best hiking in the territory. An easy 40-minute trail is the “Family Walk” from Pak Tam Chung, past the Sheung Yiu Folk Museum. The gateway to the area is the town of Sai Kung, where local fishermen sell their hauls direct from their boats on Sundays. Not surprisingly, it’s famous for seafood restaurants: pick your fish and crustaceans from the tanks and tell the waitresses how you want them cooked. At the pier, middle-aged ladies offer sampan trips out to the white beaches offshore. Book a deep-sea fishing trip, go diving (Hong Kong has more coral species than the Caribbean), hire a kayak, go wakeboarding or even hop onto a squid boat at night, where your catch will be barbecued onboard right after you pluck it from the sea. OUTLYING ISLANDS

Hong Kong has more than 200 islands, from tiny rocky outcrops to thriving fishing communities. Lantau aside, the outlying islands are car-free, with low-rise, maze-like villages, temples and seafood restaurants full of day-trippers. Once our hippie capital, Lamma is famous for its seafood, hiking and bohemian atmosphere. Cheung Chau, one-time home of Hong Kong’s only Olympic gold medalist, windsurfer Lee Lai-shan, is a busy fishing village with an amazing three-day bun festival held each May. Nearby Peng Chau has a relaxed vibe; Po Toi, off Stanley, is popular with junk-trippers for its seafood and amazing views; Tap Mun, in Sai Kung, has good beaches and a temple worth seeing. Furthest afield, and accessible by ferry only on weekends and holidays, is Tung Ping Chau. Closer to the mainland than Hong Kong, it’s fun to explore, with low hills, tiny abandoned hamlets, a white beach and good coral.

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Dizzying Heights PHOTOGRAPHER ROMAIN JACQUET-LAGREZE CAPTURES HONG KONG THROUGH ITS VERTIGO-INDUCING BUILDINGS. BY NICK MARSH Nick Marsh

Romain Jacquet Lagreze

‘If you are an artist in Hong Kong, you don’t have to do anything to make [the city] more striking,’ says locally based photographer Romain Jacquet-Lagreze. Ask any snap-happy visitor to Hong Kong, and they will tell you the Frenchman’s honest tribute hits the nail on the head: it’s what makes Hong Kong a photographer’s paradise. Boasting almost 300 buildings taller than 150 meters—and dwarfing other vertiginous municipalities such as New York City (231 buildings), Dubai (140) and Shanghai (116) in the process, it would not be an exaggeration to call Hong Kong an architectural miracle. But in a city that invites photography so readily, it can be easy for photographers to fall back on cliché. Indeed, JacquetLagreze believes that a typical harbor view or a standard Victoria Peak panorama will never capture the slightly intimidated, slightly incredulous, and completely awestruck feeling that greets a newcomer standing at the base of the world’s tallest city. It is this moment of awe and neck-ache that gets captured in “Vertical Horizon,” Jacquet-Lagreze’s newly updated photo essay collection of the city. Featuring a stunning selection of photographs shot from the base of a variety of residential and commercial buildings, the book demonstrates that, in Hong Kong, the horizon is never really in front of you—it’s above.

Romain Jacquet Lagreze

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Jacquet-Lagreze initially came to Hong Kong in 2009, after a brief stint in Tokyo where he made a living as a visual artist. He says that he left his native France in search of more exotic inspiration, but soon found that Hong Kong offered him more than he could keep up with. “I was more into graphic art, and Tokyo is good for visual art,” he explains, “but in Hong Kong there was so much to capture that I just could not draw fast enough.” It was the city’s sheer variety and vibrant disorder, as well as its unfathomable scale, that caused Jacquet-Lagreze to turn his photo-taking hobby into a full time vocation. “I think visual art cannot capture everything in Hong Kong. Here, you are constantly finding new and surprising images in every hidden corner you come across.” But if there was so much to capture on the streets, then what of the vertigo-inspired theme that many of the photos present? It seems that Jacquet-Lagreze sees powerful parallels between Hong Kong’s socio-economic rise and its buildings’ physical rise. “Buildings aren’t just things that appear from the ground. They are things that people build, they’re the result of human activity,” he explains. “They actually say a lot about what [the people] can do, in what direction the place is going.” In this case, it’s upwards. Jacquet-Lagreze avoids shooting on cloudy days because he wants to convey the feeling that Hong Kong’s skyscrapers are impressive, not oppressive. Moreover, it allows him to maintain the metaphor of optimism and aspiration. “If it’s cloudy the atmosphere becomes oppressive. I want to keep the sense of hope that these buildings inspire in me. It’s always more natural and a better representation of how the buildings make me feel,” he explains. It is difficult to argue with Jacquet-Lagreze when he talks about the link between people and topography, between a society and its environment. “People are never the subject of my photos,” he stresses. “When I do feature people, they are always represented as belonging to their environment. The context in which they live is the subject, and I find that relationship fascinating.” It is an authentic connection that other upwardly mobile cities do not seem to possess. Admittedly, his collection features the breathtaking surge of skyscrapers pumped high with Hong Kong Dollars, but its power truly lies in his photographs of typical Hong Kong: a jumbled collection of apartment blocks where the majority of the people live.

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Jacquet Lagreze 2009

Jacquet Lagreze

Jacquet Lagreze

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He points to a photo taken in To Kwa Wan in Kowloon, shot from the roof, that features a solitary man on his corridor balcony. Although he concedes the human presence “adds an emotional touch” to the image, he is much more interested in emphasizing not the individual, but the striking building they all live in. “All of these people, with individual lives and jobs, all have this amazing building in common and I think that helps to convey a weird sense of community that people often don’t see in Hong Kong, or think doesn’t exist.” Preserving this fragile but historic form of close cohabitation in Hong Kong is also an aim for the photographer, as the urban face of the city continues to change. “Some people have been there for 40, 50 years and I think it’s important to record this and preserve their way of life for the future, especially when so much is being demolished,” he says. “I think that’s a nice thing to document and nice thing to see before it’s too late.” It’s an admirable goal, but aren’t some of the buildings Jacquet-Lagreze documents simply a bit, well, ugly? He refers us to a traditional "tong lau" Chinese walk-up apartment block, captured in Quarry Bay. “At first, yes, possibly I did think some buildings were ugly,” he admits, “but when I paid more attention to this one in Quarry Bay, I noticed all the individual details of the buildings, the air conditioning units, the different sorts of windows, the hanging clothes, the different colors, the vents. I found that the building had personality and much more charm than you’d think. I learned in Hong Kong that buildings can be beautiful without being pretty. I’m inviting people to look at Hong Kong from a positive angle.” This desire to capture a sense of Hong Kong’s ragged charm as well as its opulence was born in part by Jacquet-Lagreze’s decision to base himself in the heavily populated Yau Tsim Mong district in Kowloon. “When you see photos of Hong Kong, it will nearly always be of Hong Kong Island, so I thought it was really important to cover Kowloon as well as possible in the book,” he says. His advice to tourists? “If you had one day in Hong Kong, I would say don’t go to Victoria Peak: go to Mong Kok and get lost in the streets. Or go to the Peak, but then get straight on the MTR and then go to Sham Shui Po or Mong Kok.” And when you find yourself at the foot of one of Hong Kong’s 8,000 multi-story towers—with your head thrown back, mouth open, feet frozen at the spot—don’t forget to take a picture.

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Jacquet Lagreze

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A Short Story THREE VERTICALLY CHALLENGED ARCHITECTURAL PROJECTS ARE GIVING HONG KONG’S SKY-HIGH BUILDINGS A RUN FOR THEIR MONEY. BY ADELE WONG

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Hong Kong is very much a vertical city—packed to the brim with hundred-story buildings, and boasting one of the most beautiful skylines in the world. But three newly completed architectural projects—none more than 14 stories tall—are giving the metropolis a much more diverse and creative cityscape. From a brand spanking new cruise terminal to a state-of-the-art school building to an eco-friendly park, each project is helping to break new ground and redefine the architectural status quo.

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AN ENLIGHTENED CLASSROOM Tucked away in Hung Hom, on the Polytechnic University campus, is a gently curving 14-story structure designed by renowned IraqiBritish architect Zaha Hadid. The building—the aptly named Innovation Tower—was completed last year, blessing PolyU’s School of Design students with a brand-new set of classrooms, studios and research labs in one convenient location. “The idea for a stand-alone building for the School of Design had been discussed for at least a decade,” says professor Tim Jachna, associate dean. “Before the move into the Innovation Tower, the School was divided into three areas in different corners of the campus. As the school grew in size and in reputation over the years, this arrangement became increasingly unsatisfactory.” In 2007, armed with a donation from local charity The Hong Kong Jockey Club, the school sought bids for a new building on campus from prominent architects from around the world—and found that Hadid’s vision and philosophy closely matched its own. The resulting collaboration is an asymmetrical, quasi-linear structure that stands distinctly apart from its more traditional, straight-lined neighbors. “The striking exterior of the building is composed of fair-faced concrete at the base. It’s clad in a skin of aluminium in the middle and top, with most of the middle of the building in glass,” says Jachna. Fluid and sinuous are adjectives that come to mind, at first glance. “There are protruding aluminium sun-shading elements twisted from vertical to horizontal orientation and back again as they wind around the building,” Jachna explains. “The interior of the building is characterized by organic, flowing spaces and cool, slick materials. A nine-story vertical atrium slices through the building and is criss-crossed by stairs linking the different floors of the school and providing the focal space of the tower.” Although Innovation Tower was built to accommodate the school’s growing number of students, it does host regular exhibitions and events on the podium level that are accessible by the public. Due to its relatively modest height and size, it’s a building that requires effort to locate—and not one to be taken for granted, unlike the much more gregarious International Commerce Building (Hong Kong’s tallest) in nearby West Kowloon.

14 Zaha Hadid

10 Tim Jachna 3

2007 Hadid

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SEEING GREEN Farther east, in Kowloon Bay, the Construction Industry Council in 2012 saw the completion of Zero Carbon Building, an ambitious eco-conscious project that aims to offset its carbon footprint by generating sufficient energy on its premises. The 158,230-square-foot enclave uses solar panels as well as wastecooking-oil-turned-biodiesel to provide power. There are generous patches of green surrounding the three-story main building (including an underground basement), providing a spacious urban park for city dwellers. The building itself is reserved for mixed use: there are cafes, exhibition spaces, offices and function halls alike filling up the venue. Easily renewable elements like bamboo, linoleum and cork were used as building materials when possible, and careful thought went into the planning phases to minimize construction waste. ZCB is the first project of its kind in Hong Kong, hopefully paving the way for many more to come.

TERMINAL AUDACITY A few blocks away is the newly finished Kai Tak Cruise Terminal, where Hong Kong’s old airport used to be. Taking up a total area of 498,000 square feet—and almost 1 kilometer in length from end to end—the terminal was built to accommodate mega cruise ships—the likes of which the default berthing ground in Tsim Sha Tsui could not handle. “Hong Kong had to do something, because the big cruise lines were not coming to Hong Kong anymore,” says Richard Hawkins, partner at Foster and Partners, the project’s principal design consultant. To keep up with competition, the government decided to convert the old airport in Kowloon City into another international transport hub of sorts, enlisting local architectural firm Wong Tung and Partners to oversee the project. Building started in 2010 and finished in 2013. The terminal is a sleek, long structure that takes inspiration from the former runway of the old airport, with smooth lines and rows of triangular windows dotting its lengths. At one end of the terminal, a feature arch perfectly frames and commemorates the original flight path taken by each plane as it descended on the old airport. Glorious views of the harbor can be had from all sides—a rarity for space-starved Hong Kong architecture. At maximum capacity, the terminal can host two mega cruise liners simultaneously. Besides being a state-of-the-art transit point for international passengers, the terminal also houses a vast rooftop garden for locals to enjoy. Commercial tenants like restaurants and boutiques are gradually taking up shop spaces to provide food, beverage and other leisurely options for both tourists and locals alike. “The idea was to come up with a building that was not just a cruise terminal, but also had the flexibility for other uses for the people of Hong Kong. We’re hoping it’ll become a fantastic venue for everybody in Hong Kong,” Hawkins explains. So do we. PHOTO: WONG TUNG AND PARTNERS 44

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BANK OF CHINA TOWER

TWO IFC

BEEN THERE, SEEN THAT 498 000 1 000

A round-up of Hong Kong’s iconic landmarks. By Jayson Albano and William Hodson

Jayson Albano William Hodson

BANK OF CHINA TOWER

One of the most recognizable buildings along the Hong Kong skyline stands at 315 meters tall, or 72 stories high. The building was designed by Chinese-American architect I.M. Pei and was completed in the early 90s. The shape of the building is inspired by a much-loved Chinese plant: bamboo. There is an observation deck on the 43rd floor.

Foster and Partners Richard Hawkins

INTERNATIONAL COMMERCE CENTRE (ICC) 2010

2013 4 000

At 484 meters high (118 stories tall), the ICC has been the tallest building in Hong Kong since it opened in 2010. Designed by American firm Kohn Pedersen Fox, the building consists of office spaces, an observation deck and the Ritz-Carlton hotel.

72 315 90 43

484

118

2010 Kohn Pedersen Fox

2003

TWO INTERNATIONAL FINANCE CENTRE

The IFC complex was completed in 2003, and the second tower, also known as Two IFC, is the second tallest building in Hong Kong. The project was a collaboration between two firms, led by Argentinian-American architect César Pelli and local architect Rocco Yim.

2 2 César Pelli

HSBC BUILDING

Hawkins

This iconic building was completed in 1985 by Foster and Partners. The flooring is made from lightweight movable panels, and the major source of lighting is a system of mirrors that reflect sunlight into the building.

1985

Foster

and Partners

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ON THE HORIZON Hong Kong will soon be home to its very own contemporary art gallery and dedicated cultural zone. By Adele Wong A large patch of reclaimed land in West Kowloon will become the site of a contemporary art gallery and general cultural hub—known as the West Kowloon Cultural District—by 2017. The project’s flagship gallery, M+, will be comparable to London’s Tate Modern or New York City’s Museum Of Modern Art, housing both international works as well as homegrown projects. Designed by Swiss architectural firm Herzog & de Meuron, M+ aims to be a comfortable space that’s easy to navigate. “M+ is designed to be a building where it’s easy to go into it, and you feel that it’s inviting,” says Dr. Lars Nittve, M+’s executive director. “It’s not pretentious, there is a very democratic feel to it. It should be easy to understand the building.” Besides the gallery, the entire WKCD premise—which is designed by British architect and Hong Kong favorite, Norman Foster—will also be home to a Chinese opera theater, an outdoor park, a waterfront promenade and an arts exhibition space. The entire hub will take up about 4.3 million square feet.

Adele Wong

2017 M London s Tate Modern Herzog Meuron

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M M

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Norman Foster

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Located on Level 3 of Royal Plaza Hotel, Di King Heen delivers the finest contemporary Cantonese cuisines like traditional dim sum, famous char siu and barbecued meat and premium seafood dishes. Using the finest ingredients, and delivering excellent culinary innovation and delicate service, Di King Heen has gained numerous awards, proving its high level of popularity. Di King Heen has recently appointed Chef Ricky Kong as Chinese Culinary Director to create the perfect dining experience for its most luxurious guests. Chef Kong seeks innovation in the culinary arts and insists on delivering the perfect menu for every table. Using the freshest and most prestigious ingredients, his menu is dedicated to charming guests with aroma, taste, and modern style. With his innovative vision to create the ultimate dining experience, Chef Kong aims to enchant his guests with both immaculate presentation and delectable taste. All menus are delicately created by Chef Kong and offer contemporary Cantonese cuisines plus award-winning dishes. Di King Heen’s signature dishes, such as Roasted goose liver with lard and barbecued pork; Deep-fried prawns stuffed with shrimp mousse in homemade sauce with stir-fried fresh milk and crab meat; Baked chicken stuffed with glutinous rice, whole abalone and dried seafood; Live-cooked poached clams with sake liquor and salty light broth; Baked eggplant stuffed with scallops, bacon and onion topped with green pepper coconut sauce; and Sliced lobster on steamed egg white topped with pumpkin sauce, are all meticulously prepared.

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Eat Like a Local SKIP THE MICHELIN-STARRED DINERS AND HEAD TO THE STREETS FOR THE REAL TREATS. BY WILLIAM HODSON AND JAYSON ALBANO William Hodson

Jayson Albano

TSIM CHAI KEE

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TSIM CHAI KEE

There’s no lack of options when it comes to eating in Hong Kong. Sure, we’re a city full of Michelin-starred restaurants, if you’re in the mood for fine dining. But there are also countless local eateries offering delicious, quintessentially Hong Kong dishes that you won’t be able to experience anywhere else—dishes that will help you get a true taste of Hong Kong. Here are six of them, to get you started.

DUMPLING GROUND There are many varieties of dumplings in Chinese cuisine, served dozens of different ways, but the wonton—thinly wrapped bundles filled with shrimp and minced pork—are particularly popular in Hong Kong. The wonton dumplings can be served on their own in shrimp-and-pork-based soup, but are more often accompanied by a bowl of hand-pulled egg noodles. They make a delicious midday snack or light meal. There are many opinions on which restaurants make the best wonton dumplings in town. Some people argue that bigger, fluffier wonton dumplings taste better, while some prefer the original, smaller variety that come densely packed with filling. No matter what your preference, you will find a wonton shop that meets those needs. TRY IT HERE:

Tsim Chai Kee Tsim Chai Kee’s wonton noodles come with large and juicy dumplings drenched in a dark, meat-based broth. The shop is extremely popular, so be ready to queue come lunch hour, and to slurp-and-go as quickly as possible so your seat can be given to the next hungry diner. G/F, 98 Wellington St., Central, 2850-647.

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FUK KEE

FUK KEE

COOL GRUEL Congee, a type of hot rice porridge, is a staple in many Asian cuisines. Cantonese-style congee is made by boiling rice with a lot of water until the rice breaks down and turns into a thick, gooey consistency. Congee is usually accompanied by condiments and other local snacks like fried dough sticks, pickles and salted duck eggs. Salt and soy sauce are added to the congee for flavor—or if you prefer something less intense, a dash of spring onions and white pepper works wonders. It is believed that back in the day, congee was an efficient way to prepare rice to feed as many mouths as possible—although nowadays, it is more a refined local delicacy than a humble gruel. TRY IT HERE:

Fuk Kee Congee With a plethora of congee shops to choose from, you’ll never run out of different combinations to try while you’re in Hong Kong. For starters, head on down to Fuk Kee Congee in the heart of Mong Kok, where you can have yours paired with poultry, seafood, red meat—or even intestines, if you’re feeling adventurous. Shop 11-12, 4/F, Fa Yuen St. Market, Mong Kok, 2789-0198. 52

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FUK KEE


NO WAFFLING AROUND Egg waffles, also known as “gai daan zai” in Cantonese, are one of Hong Kong’s most popular street snacks. The hot and fluffy eggshaped pastries are based on a recipe used by local street hawkers who wanted to put their damaged eggs to good use, back in the 1950s. The waffles were originally cooked over a charcoal fire, but more efficient electric grills eventually became the equipment of choice—although occasionally, you’ll still see a street hawker preparing egg waffles the traditional way. With a batter made of eggs, sugar, flour and evaporated milk, the mixture is poured into a honeycomb-like mold consisting of over 20 egg-shaped units. The final product consists of conjoined puffs that are crisp and brittle on the outside, and soft on the inside. Over the years, hawkers have experimented with chocolate, sesame and other flavors, but the original version still remains most popular.

1950

20

MAMMY PANCAKE

TRY IT HERE:

Lee Keung Kee This popular stall remains a favorite with the locals. G/F, 178 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. Mammy Pancake Mammy Pancake offers a few varieties of egg waffles, the best being the chocolate chip version with a brittle outer layer and a molten chocolate center. Shop 2A, G/F, Whampoa St., Hung Hom. 2 A

A

SOMETHING FISHY Fish balls (“yu daan” in Cantonese)—or balls made of fish paste—are a quick and easy snack in between meals, and are offered at numerous streetside snack stalls across the city. The most common ones have a deep-fried, golden-colored skin and are boiled in a mildly spicy curry broth before serving. White-colored fish balls, on the other hand, are usually served at local greasy spoons accompanied with noodles and fish broth. These fish balls are often homemade and filled with 100 percent fish meat—as opposed to the streetside varieties that are sometimes combined with starch. Not sure how to tell a good fish ball from a bad one? The fresher and higher quality the fish ball, the more resilient it feels.

MAMMY PANCAKE

TRY IT HERE:

Fei Jie Grab a skewer from this streetside shop for a true taste of local flavors. Shop 4A, 55 Dundas St., Mong Kok. Nam Kee This multi-chain fish ball noodle shop is very popular with the locals, and you’ll see queues outside most of the branches come lunch hour. Dig into a bowl of fish broth-based vermicelli accompanied by fish cakes. G/F, 66-72 Stanley St., Central, 2576-8007.

NAM KEE

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ROAST WITH THE MOST

JOY HING ROASTED MEAT

In Cantonese, “char siu” literally means “fork roast,” and is the name given to the delicious slabs of barbecued pork that can be found at restaurants across the city. This method of barbecuing meat dates back hundreds of years, and originated in Guangdong province. Boneless cuts of pork have honey, five-spice, soy and hoisin sauce slathered over them and are then put into an oven for roasting. Once cooked, the pork takes on a shiny red glaze outside and a juicy, tender inside. In Hong Kong, you will find hunks of char siu hanging behind glass cases on streetside shops, along with other roasted meats. There are different cuts of char siu available, depending on its leanness or fattiness, but the most popular is a perfect balance between the two. Char siu served with rice or noodles is a staple meal for Hongkongers, and you can also find a variation of the dish— known as “char siu bao” (barbecued pork buns)—at dim sum restaurants across the city. TRY IT HERE:

JOY HING ROASTED MEAT

Joy Hing Roasted Meat Char siu is not hard to come by, but one of the most popular restaurants serving it is Joy Hing Roasted Meat in Wan Chai, where you’ll be able to order the meat served on a mound of rice and topped with sprinkles of chopped spring onions. Block C, G/F, 265-267 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai, 2519-6639.

265 267 C

2519 6639

WHAT A SWEET TART

TAI CHEONG

A popular sweet treat among Hongkongers, egg tarts are reminiscent of little golden suns, with their brown outer pastry crusts and yellow egg custard centers. With Hong Kong’s colonial past, these tasty desserts are actually not native to the local tongue, but are instead modelled after the pastel de nata, a Portuguese custard treat, and the English custard tart. Made from eggs, milk, sugar, butter and flour, egg tarts are usually best served straight out of the oven, and the fragile crusts can easily crumble if you grip them too hard. Sometimes, instead of traditional egg custard, you may find variations that use milk, ginger-flavored eggs, chocolate, or even green tea to make up the filling. The crust is usually made of shortcake pastry but sometimes you might find puff pastry-like varieties available.

pastel de nata

TRY IT HERE:

TAI CHEONG

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Tai Cheong Tai Cheong Bakery is a popular local bakery selling tasty tarts with a delightful, hard crust for only $6 each. The branch on Lyndhurst Terrace is hard to miss—you’ll find scores of people queuing at the front of the shop each day, hoping to get their hands on one of the treats. 35 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, 2544-3475.

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One Night in Hong Kong

THE CITY’S LATEST, TRENDIEST HANGOUTS OFFER EVERYTHING FROM CRAFT BEER TO SPECIALTY WHISKY. BY NICK MARSH Nick Marsh

LE DOME DE CRISTAL

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NOCTURNE

TIPPING POINT

STOCKTON

Hong Kong’s nightlife has always enjoyed a special place in visitors’ hearts. From classy cocktail bars to stylish clubs to nofrills drinking joints, partying in Hong Kong has gained a semilegendary reputation for its sheer energy and variety. But any regular visitor to the city will tell you how quickly things change. Wherever you go—whether it’s low-key or lively, elegant or earthy—the one thing Hong Kong bars have in common is the fierce competition. When the sun goes down, it’s survival of the fittest. So how does a thirsty newcomer distinguish between the real deal and a flash in the pan? Well, we’ve picked out the cream of the crop to bring you six of the city’s hottest new establishments. Before launching into the night’s festivities, it’s a good idea to wet your whistle with a pre-dinner beverage. You can forget the fancy aperitifs, though—Hong Kong these days is all about craft beer. Head to Tipping Point Brewing Co. on Wyndham Street for one of your only chances in the city to sample beers brewed in-house. The place is the brainchild of partner and head chef Que Vinh Dang, who explains that the bar’s name is intended to reflect a turning tide in the city against the same old fare. “Given what the craft beer market is right now, and the general interest in craft beer right now,” he says, “the idea that we’re brewing our own represents a tipping point for drinking habits in Hong Kong.” And indeed simplicity, authenticity and an honest passion for well-crafted ales underpin the fledgling bar’s philosophy. Customers will be pleased to find a good range of IPAs, stouts and wheat beers, not to mention quality international bar food. Best of all, Dang assures us there won’t be a mass-market beer in sight. Not far up the hill on Peel Street is The Roundhouse Taproom, another bar specializing in fine beers from around the world. The Roundhouse is new on Hong Kong Island after relocating from Kowloon earlier this year, and the move has brought a fresh focus on quality brews. Manager Demilo Torrente even spent part of last year on a fact-finding mission to Japan to learn more about the microbrewing and storage processes. Torrente, like many people in Hong Kong, is tired of the oligopoly on beer found in the city’s bars. “In Hong Kong we are educated about Heineken, Carlsberg, and that’s all you see.” he says. “People like us, we need something new. We’re supporting microbrewing, and that’s what SoHo needs right now.” On offer is an excellent and eclectic range of beers from the States, Denmark, Canada, Japan, and even Hong Kong’s own new brewery: Young Master Ales. Roundhouse’s Texan chef, Austin Fry, serves up no-nonsense American pulled pork and beef brisket to pair with your chosen beer. And in case you need any help choosing, customers are free to use the special Roundhouse iPads, which offer interactive information on all the beers, including ratings on taste, sight and smell. If champagne is more your wheelhouse, then classy lassies and big-time Charlies may enjoy Le Dôme de Cristal, the

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Dang

Roundhouse Taproom Roundhouse Demilo Torrente

Young Master Ales Austin Fry

Roundhouse

Le Dome de Cristal

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world’s first Cristal-branded bar and restaurant that opened in October last year. Here you can enjoy more than 21 selections from Louis Roederer’s illustrious champagne collection, as well as a sampling of more than 230 international labels from Old and New World vineyards. The luxurious decor is based on local designer Steve Leung’s contemporary interpretation of Roederer’s original Cristal Mansion in France, as he maps out a vision of golden opulence under the Galleria’s enormous white dome. Prices are not for the faint-hearted (a glass of signature Cristal 2005 will set you back $590), but you can still enjoy a red, white or rosé for between $85 and $190 a glass. Depending on your plans for the evening, you can opt for the all-French oyster bar to accompany your bubbly. For a more relaxed environment, Nocturne is a mellow place to unwind with friends and chilled drinks. Open since December 2013, the establishment is a labor of love that germinated from owner Raymond Lee’s three loves: wine, whisky and Japan. “Originally the idea was to have a wine bar, but I love whisky so much I couldn’t leave it out of the picture,” he explains. “Then when I realized I wanted to incorporate the Japanese element, it all made sense.” Certainly, sitting within its uber-minimalist scrubbed concrete walls, sipping on a limited-edition Karuizawa single malt with only candles and light jazz for company, you do feel as if you have wandered into a discreet neighborhood bar in Tokyo—not bustling SoHo. Once inside, you are invited to choose from over 150 Japanese and Scotch whiskies, and more than 250 wines from Lee’s exclusively French wine room upstairs. Nocturne does not have a wine list, preferring that its guests venture upstairs to pick their own bottle to ensure they get exactly what they are looking for. Built to accommodate just 25 guests, Nocturne is a warm, cozy gem run by people who know what they are talking about and are genuinely passionate about what they offer. Opened in January this year, Stockton is the latest watering hole in the city to look to the simpler days of the past for inspiration. In this case, it is the halcyon days of 1890s London: an era associated with indulgence and mystery. As co-director Malcolm Wood explains, “Stockton is about privacy, much akin to the clubs that were hidden off the main streets of London back in the day.” Hidden is the correct word, because in order to access the establishment, you must first venture down a dark alleyway and ascend an unmarked staircase before you enter a world of wood panelling, classic furniture, antiques and historical artifacts sourced from Parisian markets. “Stockton is an extension of your living room,” Wood says—and this would be true if you lived in a 19th century aristocrat’s dwelling. Once you find your way to this fin-de-siècle enclave, expect to feel sophisticated and surreptitious in equal measure while ordering funky-sounding drinks designed by Suraj, the bar manager and resident cocktail master. With so many new choices and a range of budgets to choose from, there’s no excuse to not spend a night out in Hong Kong. 58

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Cristal 21

Louis Roederer 230 Roederer Cristal Mansion Galleria Cristal2005

HK 590

HK 85 HK 190

THE ROUNDHOUSE

Nocturne 2013 Lee

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Raymond

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Karuizawa

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Nocturne LE DOME DE CRISTAL

Nocturne

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25 Stockton

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Suraj

The Roundhouse Taproom 62 Peel St., Central, 2366-4880. 62 2366 4880 Nocturne 35 Peel St., Central, 2884-9566. 35 2884 9566

19 Stockton

Tipping Point Brewing Co. 79 Wyndham St., Central, 2868-2892. 79 2868 2892

Le Dôme de Cristal 3/F, The Galleria, 9 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2116-4688. 9 3 2116 4688 Stockton 1/F, 32 Wyndham St., Central, 2565-5268. 32 1 2565 5268



Hong Kong

Hong Kong is a city full of quirks and gems— if you know where to look. We’ve asked local representatives from various industries to give us their two cents on what they love most about Hong Kong: from their favorite neighborhoods to the must-have Hong Kong dish, to the best times to visit. Their answers might surprise you.

Confidential AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO HONG KONG. BY ADELE WONG Adele Wong

Erbert Chong is a new-to-the-scene, locally based designer whose eponymous label was recently featured at Hong Kong Fashion Week.

Erbert Chong

What is your favorite time of year in Hong Kong? My favorite time would be in the winter, since the weather is more mild.

What is your favorite district in Hong Kong? I would say Mong Kok. I love Goldfish Street and the flower market! I am alway surprised by what random things I can find in that area.

Who is your favorite Hongkonger? At this moment, Mickco (www.mickco.net). I think he is a wonderful illustrator.

Mickco Chan www mickco net

What’s the one thing you most love about Hong Kong? All the ghost stories [told by locals] and the haunted hot spots around town.

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Haider Kikabhoy runs Walk In Hong Kong (www.walkin.hk), a tour operator that aims to educate both tourists and locals on the different historical and cultural treasures the city has to offer.

Haider Kikabhoy www walkin hk

What is your favorite time of year in Hong Kong? March. The change from winter to spring is pleasurable. You feel it and you see it: the floral booms, the energizing warmth that makes you want to spend a lot of time in the country parks, the moisture that creeps back into the air before the oppressive humidity of summer takes over.

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What is your favorite district in Hong Kong, and why? The quiet, hilly area around Hollywood Road Park in Sheung Wan. I love it because it’s steeped in history yet right now it’s caught in a swirl of gentrification. Across the road from the park, you get a most eclectic mix of trades that encapsulate the unique character of the area: a fancy restaurant stands right next to two traditional Chinese coffin shops, then further along you’ll find a trendy art gallery sandwiched between an Anglican kindergarten and a greasy Chinese roast pork vendor.

What do you do to de-stress and get away from the daily grind? Hiking in the countryside or a day spent on one of the outlying islands—we’re an archipelago of 263 islands, after all. So much of Hong Kong is green and gorgeous. I like bus routes no.6 (to Repulse Bay), no.9 (to Shek O) and no.14 (to Stanley via Tai Tam Reservoir) on Hong Kong Island. They are magical, undulating rides from one jungle (concrete) to another (lush tropical foliage and soothing bays).

263 6 9

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Danny Ng is a principal at 4N Architects, a locally based interior design firm that lists prominent lounges, bars and restaurants across the city on its roster of clients. He works with partner Sinner Sin on 4N’s various projects.

What is your favorite district in Hong Kong, and why? Cheung Chau. Anyone who would like to know more about Hong Kong must go explore Cheung Chau. You can spend one whole day there, witnessing the islander/villager lifestyle. Trek to the peak of the mountain on Cheung Chau and you will be able to see wonderful views of the whole island, not to mention Lantau Island and a distant view of Hong Kong Island. Magnificent!

Who is your favorite Hongkonger? One is Bruce Lee. His movies and his fame have penetrated the whole world, making him one of the most famous movie icons in the 20th century. Another one is my childhood pop-star favorite: talented actor Leslie Cheung, who was always stylish, trendy, gentlemanly, gorgeous, and had a sexy voice.

20

What’s the one thing you love most about Hong Kong? Hong Kong is such a safe place, with lots of freedom and opportunities. People living in Hong Kong are free to choose what they want to do in such a safe city.

Alvin Leung’s restaurant, Bo Innovation (2/F, J Residence, 60 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2850-8371), specializes in “extreme” Chinese cuisine. The establishment received three stars in the 2014 Michelin Guide.

CHEUNG CHAU

602285083712014101113

What is your favorite time of year in Hong Kong? Definitely not summer. I would say weatherwise, it’s really nice here around October/November. It’s probably one of the best times to be in Hong Kong. I also enjoy Chinese New Year, the reason being that I’m away from Hong Kong quite a lot, and Chinese New Year is the only time I try to be in Hong Kong so I can be with my family.

What is your favorite district in Hong Kong? I’m a creature of habit. Everywhere I go must be within one meter flip of a taxi. I would say Wan Chai is the place I hang out the most. There are a lot of interesting restaurants in Wan Chai which I frequent. Chefs are very simple.

Who is your favorite Hongkonger? Sir Run Run Shaw made a lot of movies that I loved to watch when I was a kid. He actually was the oldest person ever to eat at Bo Innovation. I don’t think we can beat that record. He came here about three years ago. Unfortunately I wasn’t there. I was out of town. He donated a lot of money to a lot of causes, but he didn’t do it blindly. He did it for one cause: education. 62

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WAN CHAI



Shopping WHETHER YOU PREFER TO HAGGLE IN A MARKET, BROWSE LUXURY MALLS OR GO BESPOKE, HONG KONG HAS IT COVERED. AND IT'S DUTY FREE.

COS 64

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SHOPPING

SHOPPING MALLS ELEMENTS 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2735-5234, www.elementshk.com. Elements consists of two floors and a million square feet of retail heaven at the ICC, Hong Kong’s tallest building. This luxury mall offers international cuisine and world-class shopping, from high-end designers (Gucci, Cartier) to international chain stores (Zara, H&M). HARBOUR CITY 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2118-8666, www.harbourcity.com.hk. With 700 stores and 50 restaurants, Harbour City is the city’s largest megamall, sprawling across more than 2 million square feet. It’s actually two malls in one seamless whole: Ocean Terminal and Ocean Centre, with spillover into the Marco Polo Hong Kong and Gateway hotels. Ocean Terminal is situated beside the Star Ferry terminal, and many restaurants have harbor views. HORIZON PLAZA 2 Lee Wing St., Ap Lei Chau, 2554-9089. This place doesn’t look very promising— and it’s not easy to get to—but it’s something of a mecca for bargain fashion as well as furniture, Chinese antiques, toys and home accessories. Originally designed as an industrial building, this 27-story high-rise has been taken over by retailers, wholesalers, importers, exporters and factory outlets. Two of the city’s best high-end fashion retailers—Lane Crawford and Joyce— have large outlet stores here selling last season’s fashion at decent discounts. Also look out for local homeware emporium Tequila Kola and giant antiques warehouse Shambala. HYSAN PLACE 500 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2886-7222. The newest addition to shopping haven Causeway Bay houses Taiwanese megabookshop Eslite, a trendy food court and lots of hip, mid-range brands like

Hollister and GAP. The lower levels include a sizeable beauty and cosmetics section, watch shops, and supermarketslash-lifestyle store Jasons Living. Techies also get their share of shopping with a giant Apple store on the ground floor. IFC MALL 8 Finance St., Central, 2295-3308, www.ifc.com.hk. Set beneath Hong Kong Island’s tallest building, IFC Mall is home to more than 200 international high-end brands, including Tory Burch, Roberto Cavalli and Juicy Couture, with Lane Crawford acting as an anchor. It also has a luxurious cinema, and some of the finest dining in the city. Many restaurants have drop-dead gorgeous harbor views, particularly those with access to the fourth-floor roof terrace and alfresco balconies. ISQUARE 63 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3665-3333, www.isquare.hk. iSquare is another brand-new shopping complex on Nathan Road. Conveniently located in the heart of Tsim Sha Tsui, it is an elite center boasting a variety of shops, a supermarket, an abundance of restaurants and an IMAX theater. K11 18 Hanoi Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3118-8070, www.k11concepts.com. K11 combines innovative design and a trendy shopping experience. This sixstory mall has 340,000 square feet of total floor area housing art exhibitions and chic stores. This one-of-a-kind shopping center offers a glimpse at Hong Kong’s creative side. THE LANDMARK 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2500-0555, www.centralhk.com. Home to one of the highest concentrations of international designer labels on the planet, The Landmark is the grande dame of upscale shopping malls in Hong Kong. Bang in the heart of Central and centered around a five-story atrium, it is a who’s who of fashion: Louis Vuitton, Jimmy Choo, Gucci, Dior, Fendi, Ralph Lauren, Manolo Blahnik, Marc Jacobs, Miu Miu, Tiffany & Co and many more.

ELEMENTS

Jasons Living Apple Store

1 2735-5234 www.elementshk.com

8 2295-3308 www.ifc.com.hk

100 Zara

H M

200 Tory Burch Juicy Couture

Roberto Cavalli 4

3-27 2118-8666 www.harbourcity.com.hk 700 50 200

iSQUARE 63 3665-3333 www.isquare.hk ISQUARE

IMAX 2

2554-9089

K11 18 3118-8070 www.k11concepts.com K11

27

6 Joyce

340,000 Tequila

Kola

Shambala 15 2500-0555 www.centralhk.com 500

Hollister

2886-7222 5 Jimmy Choo ManoloBlahnik

GAP

Marc Jacobs

Miu Miu WHERE G UEST B OOK

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LANGHAM PLACE 8 Argyle St., Mong Kok, 3520-2800, www.langhamplace.com.hk. The Langham Place mall occupies about 600,000 square feet of floor space, including fashion, accessories and lifestyle stores such as Muji and Levi’s. There are more than 20 restaurants to choose from, some under the "digital sky" ceiling. Located in the heart of Mong Kok, within walking distance of the Ladies’ Market and Fa Yuen Street, it’s a good place to recharge in airconditioning. Stores are open late. LEE GARDENS 33 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, 2907-5227, www.leegardens.com.hk. Divided into two blocks (Lee Gardens and Lee Gardens Two), this is a luxury shopping mall stuffed with high-end retailers such as Gucci, Hermès, Louis Vuitton, Moschino, Jean Paul Gaultier and more. Lee Gardens Two has several children’s fashion shops, and there are plenty of good restaurants to choose from. MIRA MALL 118 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-5868, www.mira-mall.com. Shop for trendy labels from Japan, America and Hong Kong at this Tsim Sha Tsui mall attached to the Mira Hotel. When you’re ready for a break, head to Coco bakery for some seriously sinful cupcakes and other indulgent treats. THE ONE 100 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3106-3640, www.the-one.hk. One of Hong Kong's newest shopping malls, this fashionably designed 29-story retail complex is a destination for both shopping and dining. There are countless fine restaurants, cafés and fro-yo joints in the building, along with more indie boutiques than most malls. PACIFIC PLACE 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2844-8900, www.pacificplace.com.hk. One of the most popular shopping malls in Hong Kong, Pacific Place has four floors of upscale shops and restaurants. Some of the biggest names in fashion and 66

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jewelry have a presence here, including Gucci, Prada, Chopard and Cartier. Luxe department store Harvey Nichols, Great Food Hall (a grocery store with a great selection of prepared foods for takeaway) and an AMC cinema are a few of the anchor tenants. TIMES SQUARE 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay, 2118-8900, www.timessquare.com.hk. Times Square is one of Hong Kong’s largest shopping malls. The 16-story complex contains more than 230 shops—including Lane Crawford, upscale Japanese supermarket Citysuper, Page One books and a cinema. The floors are neatly categorized into retail, entertainment and recreational areas, with several floors dedicated to dining.

DEPARTMENT STORES CHINESE ARTS & CRAFTS Shop 220, 2/F, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2523-3933, www.cachk.com. One of Hong Kong’s most famous cheongsam-makers, this shop has more than 100 years’ experience in tailoring and Chinese crafts. Its cheongsams are traditionally cut from high-quality fabric imported from China. The shop has a large international following, including Hillary Clinton and former Indonesian president Megawati Sukarnoputri. HARVEY NICHOLS The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3695-3388; 1/F, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 3968-2668, www.harveynichols.com. The Hong Kong branches of London’s uber-fashionable department store are a haven of international brands, with a good restaurant—the Fourth Floor—at the Landmark location and a fabulous beauty department to boot. It stocks exclusive brands and hard-tofind items from more widely available ranges. Best of all, there’s loads of browsing room.

8 3520-2800 www.langhamplace.com.hk 60 Levi’s 20

88 2844-8900 www.pacificplace.com.hk 4

33 2907-5227 www.leegardens.com.hk

1 2118-8900 www.timessquare.com.hk

2 Moschino 2

Jean Paul Gaultier

16

230 CitySuper

MIRA MALL 118 www.mira-mall.com

2315-5868

Coco 88

THE ONE 100 3106-3640 www.the-one.hk 29

THE SWANK


SHOPPING LANE CRAWFORD 3/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2118-3388; 3 Canton Rd., Times Square, 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay, 2118-3638, www.lanecrawford.com. This Hong Kong institution is almost as old as the colony itself, but it’s bang up-to-date these days. Lane Crawford raised the retail stakes in 2004 when it opened its gorgeously glam flagship in the IFC Mall, stacked with must-have designer brands from Agent Provocateur to Vera Wang. RUE DE MARSEILLE Shop G-1/F, K11 Art Mall, 18 Hanoi Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3122-4282. This concept shop falls under the Agnes. b umbrella and is divided into different sections. There’s a florist shop, a patisserie, a vinyl records section, and separate floors for men’s and ladies’ fashion. SHANGHAI TANG 1 Duddell St., Central, 2525-7333,www.shanghaitang.com. More of a luxe Chinese emporium than a department store, Shanghai Tang’s new flagship, opened in April 2012, is an Art Deco wonderland with beautiful wares. The homegrown luxury brand specializes in a funky fusion of traditional and contemporary Chinese design. You’ll find kitsch watches and accessories, great homewares, fun T-shirts, fashion for men and women and incredibly beautiful bespoke tailored cheongsams. SOGO 555 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2833-8338, www.sogo.com.hk. Opened in 1985, Sogo is a huge department store that specializes in Japanese goods. It aims to fulfill all shoppers’ needs under one roof, and has as such has a diverse and eclectic range of goods on offer, including clothes, beauty products, kitchen utensils, sportswear and foodstuffs. THE SWANK Shop B51-54 and 312-314, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2810-0769, www.swank.com.hk. Representing established designers as well as upcoming talents from around

the world, The Swank has been one of the finest local fashion houses since 1955. It has 12 free-standing boutiques and points of sale in major department stores around Hong Kong. YUE HWA 15/F, Champion Building, 301-309 Nathan Rd., Jordan, 3511-2222. This large department store has several branches in Hong Kong, each selling a mixture of Chinese arts and crafts, furniture, electric products, traditional Chinese clothing and embroidered silk. There is a good selection of reasonably priced cheongsams, coats, fitted tops and trousers tailored from quality silk. Made-to-measure cheongsams take about three weeks. Delivery available.

Tailors RUE DE MARSEILLE

A-MAN HING CHEONG M2/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd., Central, 2522-3336. One of the oldest names in tailoring, A-Man Hing Cheong has been in the business for over 100 years. This is where British tycoons and Chinese taipans come to be transformed into gentlemen. Fabrics, craftsmanship and service are the reasons for their success in the business. Tailor-made suits require at least six days to complete. ASCOT CHANG Shop 2031, 2/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2295-3833, www.ascotchang.com. This famous tailor has branches at The Peninsula, IFC Mall, Elements mall and Prince’s Building, and internationally in Beverly Hills, Shanghai, Manila and Manhattan. Established in 1952, Ascot Chang is acclaimed for its shirts, but its suits are equally up to par. Custom-made suits take two to three weeks. BLANC DE CHINE Shop 123, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2104-7934, www.blancdechine.com. Established in 1986 as a design workshop, and in 1990 as a retail

Harvey Nichols 15 T 4 The Organic Pharmacy 555

2833-8338

1985 8

3

2004 Agent Provocateur

15 B51-54 312-314 2810-0769 www.swank.com.hk 1955 12

Rue De Marseille 18

301-309

Agnes. B

3 1

2525-7333

2012

WHERE G UEST B OOK

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group, Blanc de Chine sells bespoke and prêt-a-porter men’s and women’s Chinese-style clothing with a modern twist. Its cheongsams are tailored from luxury silks made in the company’s own factories in China, and other materials are imported from Europe. DAVID’S SHIRTS G/F, Wing Lee Building, 33 Kimberley Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-9556, www.davidsshirts.com. There are exactly 22 stitches per inch in every suit from David’s Shirts. Each of their traditional Shanghainese tailors has at least 20 years of experience in the business. LA ELITE FASHION G/F, 1H Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-0040. A well-regarded tailor shop that stands out amid the endless throngs in Tsim Sha Tsui. One online reviewer even said he was given a beer during the fitting. If that's not service, we don't know what is. LAPEL Shop D, Jade Centre, 98 Wellington St., Central, 2851-1969. Specializing in Shanghainese tailoring for men and women, Lapel can run up a new suit in as little as 24 hours. In addition to its convenient location, it also has a branch in New York for customers who want to get fitted in Hong Kong and pick up the finished product closer to home. Suits are made using high-quality fabrics from various fashion houses. LOA HAI SHING Shop 201-203, 2/F, Tak Shing House, 20 Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2523-6167, www.lhshk.com.hk. Operating for more than a century, Loa Hai Shing will tailor-make your tuxedo, morning coat, dinner jacket, evening tails, overcoat or shirt. There is a range of fabrics to choose from, including lightweight materials as well as natural and luxurious fibers in solid colors, intricate stripes or delicate checks. Suits take about a week, but rush orders can be accommodated. 68

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PACIFIC CUSTOM TAILORS Shop C1, G/F, 19 Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2845-5466, www.pacifictailor.com.hk. Specializing in bespoke British-style suits in your choice of more than 500 wool fabrics from the U.K. and Italy, Pacific Custom Tailors can have your new threads ready in as little as two days. To add a touch of refinement, they use silk linings and buttons. PRINCETON CUSTOM TAILOR Suite B, 7/F, Wing Lock House, 16 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2191-9898, www.ptbyprinceton.com. Shanghainese tailors are renowned for the quality of their workmanship, and the experienced hands at Princeton Custom Tailor can have you suited up in three to four days. Fabrics in a wide range of textures, colors, tones and weights are available for you to browse, so your suit can be exactly the way you want it. PUNJAB HOUSE Suite C, 5/F, Golden Crown Court, 66-70 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-6612, www.punjabhouse.com.hk. In business for more than 100 years, Punjab House specializes in fine Shanghainese tailoring and offers

LA ELITE FASHION 1H

5

2368-0040

2522-3336

LAPEL 98 6

Lapel 24

8 2 2031 2295-3833 www.ascotchang.com

1952

10

20

2

123

Blanc de Chine 1986 1990

PACIFIC CUSTOM TAILORS 19

DAVID’S SHIRTS

C1 500

33 David’s Shirts

22 20

PUNJAB HOUSE



a variety of packages for men and women. It has over 10,000 styles and fabrics to choose from, and will keep measurements on file for future orders. It also has a branch in London offering tailoring and pick-up services. PURSUE 2/F, 13 Lan Kwai Fong, Central, 2537-0993, www.pursuehk.com. To wet your whistle while you wait, Pursue has a built-in bar to make your tailoring experience all the more comfortable. You can even buy a painting, as it doubles as an art gallery. Suits take approximately two weeks. RAJA FASHIONS G/F, 34C Cameron Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-7624, www.raja-fashions.com. Founded more than 50 years ago, Raja is a stalwart in Hong Kong’s customtailoring business. It stocks more than 20,000 fabrics, from the affordable to the exclusive. Top labels include Ermenegildo Zegna, Scabal, Loro Piana, Holland & Sherry, Valentino and Dormeuil. SAM’S TAILOR G/F, Shop K& L, Burlington Arcade, 90 – 94C, Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-9423, www.samstailor.com. Sam’s is possibly the most famous tailor in town—with a celebrity client list to match, including David Bowie, Luciano Pavarotti and Prince Charles. Suits can be completed in as quick as 24 hours, but ideally they take at least two fittings and several days. There are more than 2,500 types of fabrics to choose from. W.W. CHAN & SONS Unit B, 8/F, Entertainment Building, 30 Queen’s Road Central, Central, 2366-9738, www.wwchan.com. In business for more than 50 years, W.W. Chan & Sons uses the finest materials from such famous mills as Loro Piana, Valentino Garavani, Scabal, Dormeuil and Holland & Sherry. Having trouble picking the perfect fabric? One of their experienced tailors will help you select the right material for your particular needs. Suits take an average of three weeks. 70

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DRESSMAKERS DORIAN HO Block A, 12/F, 106 King Fuk St., San Po Kong, 2321-3288, www.dorianohk.com. For tailor-made haute couture, local fashion star Dorian Ho’s showroom in San Po Kong is the place to go. Famous for his wedding gowns, Ho also designs subtly sexy evening-wear with an east-meets-west take. You can check out his ready-to-wear line at Lane Crawford. Made-to-measure gowns take around six months. You will need approximately three fittings, booked in advance. IRENE FASHIONS Shop A2, 2/F, Burlington House, 94 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-9738, www.wwchan.com. A division of W. W. Chan and Sons, Irene Fashions stocks materials from some of the best fabric houses and mills around the world, including Valentino Garavani and Ermenegildo Zegna. In-house designers will work with you to create the perfect dress. VOGUE TAILOR Shop 522A, Star House, 3 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2314-8016. Simple dresses or basic traditional cheongsams take only three to four days after a fitting. This speedy service also applies to bespoke suits, shirts and menswear. They are able to offer a wide variety of fabrics, but are also happy for you to bring your own.

SHOEMAKERS

W.W. CHAN & SONS

16

2,500

7 B

W. W. Chan & Sons 3

30

4

50 W.W. Chan Sons Loro Piana Valentino Garavani Scabal Dormeuil Holland Sherry

PUNJAB HOUSE 66-70

5 C 3

Punjab House

DORIAN HO

PURSUE 13 2

106 12 A

2537-0993

Pursue

2321-3288

9

6

3

RAJA FASHIONS IRENE FASHIONS

34C

94 50

Raja 20,000

Ermenegildo Zegna Scabal Loro Piana Holland Sherry Valentino Dormeuil

2 A2

W. W. Chan and Sons Irene Fashions Valentino Garavani Ermenegildo Zegna

SAM’S TAILOR 3

90-94C

BESPOKE 1629 Beverley Commercial Centre, 87-105 Chatham Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2314-9687. www.englishbespoketailors.com.

B

Sam 3 24

4



Bespoke produces their own footwear designs, or will gladly make a pair based on a picture in around two weeks. They stock leather and satin, but you are welcome to supply your own materials KOW HOO SHOE Shop 243, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2523-0489. Established in Shanghai since 1928, and in Hong Kong since 1946, Kow Hoo is the oldest custom-made shoe shop in Hong Kong and the only one that still makes a "last," or mold, for each individual customer. LIII LIII SHOES Shop 75, 1/F, Tower 2, Admiralty Centre, 18 Harcourt Rd., Admiralty, 2865-3989. You’ll be spoiled for choice at Liii Liii Shoes, which has 5,000 styles to choose from. Catering to your desired style, material, heel height and color, they’ll make you a pair you’ll never want to take off. Snake and alligator skin, patent leather, leather, suede and a vast array of fabrics are available. MAYER SHOES Shop M3, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2524-3317. Boasting former Hong Kong governors, local big shots and foreign celebrities among its customers, Mayer Shoes has been making handcrafted footwear since 1964. Copying any design imaginable, you can bring in a picture or pair of shoes and they will create them according to your exact specifications in about a week. TASSELS Shop B64-65, The Landmark, 15 Queen's Rd. Central, 2789-9911, www.tassels.com.hk. Grab ready-to-wear men's shoes by luxury brands like Alden, Bontoni and Gallo or have a pair of custom-made ones for your feet only. VICKIE’S SHOES G/F, 6 Li Yuen St. East, Central, 2522-9013. Opt for one of the designs offered at Vickie’s Shoes—or come in with your 72

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own ideas and they’ll make a pair to your specifications. Offering everything from real leather to fabric and even fur, they are able to copy a pair of shoes for you in three weeks.

FASHION & ACCESSORIES AGNES B. LA LOGGIA, Shop 3089-3097, 3/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2805-0678. The French chain’s first flagship store is spread over 15,000 square feet and two floors of the IFC Mall. ARMANI EXCHANGE G/F, Chater House, 11 Chater Rd., Central, 2532-7777. The Italian designer’s Hong Kong flagship is a thing of beauty, its tasteful halls filled with the brand’s various fashion lines for men and women, as well as a florist selling inspirational arrangements and a chic rooftop bar called Armani/Aqua.

AGNES B LA LOGGIA

TASSELS 2789 9911

BESPOKE 87-105 1629

BOTTEGA VENETA Shop G06-07, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2973- 0882. The luxury leather goods company has nine outlets in Hong Kong, including this store designed by creative director Tomas Maier, who paid attention to every detail, down to the suede-lined walls and door handles sheathed in leather.

Bespoke

BURBERRY Shop G04-05, 104-106 and 207-209, Silvercord, 30 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 5808-2409. Britain’s favorite trench coats are just as popular in Asia, with the signature tan and black checks turning up in all sorts of unexpected places.

LIII LIII SHOES

CÉLINE Shop G40, G/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2525-1281. This French luxury fashion brand has become one of the most sought-after upscale labels in the world. Céline houses classic items that are both beautiful and feminine, with a modern edge. Their

B64-65 www.tassels.com.hk

2314-9687

VICKIE’S SHOES 6 Vickie’s Shoes 10 243

3

2523 0489

AGNES B LA LOGGIA

18 2

1

75

2522-9013

3

2865 3989

3089

8 3097

2805 0611

ARMANI EXCHANGE 11

2532-7777

MAYER SHOES 5 Armani Aqua 1964 Shoes

Mayer

BOTTEGA VENETA 15 7 Tomas Maier



signature pieces, minimalist and readyto-wear, are perfect for all occasions. CHANEL Shop 124 – 125, G-1/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2810-0978. Designed by Peter Marino to look like a classic Chanel white box, the double-height glowing exterior of Chanel’s Asian flagship is a beacon of luxury in Central. CHRISTIAN DIOR Shop 43-45, G/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2524-8277. Dior’s flagship boutique spreads over two floors in the prestigious Landmark shopping center, featuring the city’s most comprehensive selection of the fashion house’s ready-to-wear collection, leather goods, accessories, Baby Dior line and fine jewelry. CLUB MONACO G/F, New World Tower 2, 16-18 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2118-2987. Upscale US brand Club Monaco’s Asian flagship is reminiscent of a New York loft. Both the store and collection are fresh, urban and timeless. COS G-1/F, 74 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3580-7938. Under the H&M Group and known to some as H&M’s sleeker older sister, COS (short for Collection Of Style) does classic pieces with a futuristic flourish—practical for the office, yet sophisticated enough to turn some heads on your way to work. DIANE VON FURSTENBERG Shop 306-307, 3/F, The Landmark Atrium, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2522-8782. The place to go for DVF’s iconic wrap dress—and so much more. FENDI Shop 335, 3/F, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2918-9665. It-bags for it-girls. Need we say more?

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GIEVES & HAWKES Shop 2025, 2/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2234-7220. The best of British tailoring, straight from No. 1 Savile Row to the heart of Hong Kong’s business district. Go bespoke or scan the racks for crisp, quintessentially English suits. GUCCI Shop G124-125A & G220, G/F, Harbour City, 11 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2199-7728. A serene store that ticks all the right boxes for Hong Kong fashionistas, thanks to its modern, clean-lined clothing, perfectly constructed shoes and recognizable accessories. HERMÈS Shop 8-9, G/F, The Galleria, 9 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2525-5900. You may have to join a waiting list for Hermès’ coveted Kelly, Birkin and HAC bags—or you might luck out and find just what you’re looking for right there on the shelf. HUGO BOSS Shop 2092 – 2093, 2/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2295-3308. This store showcases the complete range of Boss casual and formal collections, including the women’s line.

COS 74 1 2580-7938 H M H M COS Collection Of Style

BURBERRY 30

G04-05

DIANE VON FURSTENBERG 15 DVF

CÉLINE 15

FENDI 88

Céline

3 335

2918-9665

GIEVES & HAWKES 8 10

Savile Row 1 GIEVES HAWKES

Peter Marino

CHRISTIAN DIOR 15

11

Baby Dior

CLUB MONACO 16-18 Club Monaco

9 Kelly

Birkin

HAC

I.T G/F, 1 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, 2890-7012. In the two decades since its founding, I.T has become a mecca for those with an eye for fresh, fun fashion thanks to its diverse range of new and cutting-edge brands. It has several stores across the city, including i.t for the younger set, ETE shoes and Double-Park streetwear shops. Brands at I.T include Alexander McQueen, Ann Demeulemeester, D&G, Helmut Lang, Maison Martin Margiela and Raf Simons. INITIAL FASHION G/F, Tak Woo House, 17-19 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2537-0663, www.initialfashion.com.

COS TASSELS*



This local brand blends fashion and lifestyle in a venue that’s so much more than a store—there’s also a café at a branch in Tsim Sha Tsui. Pick up something funky to wear, browse some artwork and stop for a latte. It’s chic, contemporary and fun. JIMMY CHOO Shop G8, G/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2525-6068. Sexy, stylish and utterly desirable heels from the shoe god himself. JOHANNA HO G/F, 13 Wyndham St., Central, 2851-8351, www.johannaho.com. Talented local designer Johanna Ho finally has her own two-story, 1,700-square-foot shop stocking beautiful ladies’ fashion. JOYCE BOUTIQUE G/F, New World Tower, 18 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2810-1120. Named for Hong Kong’s first lady of fashion, Joyce Ma, who established the company but these days takes a back seat. Ma was the first person to bring top-end international designers to Hong Kong, and the shop is still the place for red-hot women’s and men’s fashion and accessories by the likes of Anna Sui, Vera Wang, Robert Dennis and John Galliano. The two-story shop is a masterpiece of funky luxury, and boasts a fabulous beauty section. KANCHAN COUTURE Shop 710, 7/F, Tower A, Hung Hom Commercial Centre, 37 – 39 Ma Tau Wai Rd., Hung Hom 2117-1782, www.kanchancouture.com. Designer Kanchan Panjabi makes unique, feminine dresses in silk and natural fabrics, all with a retro-chic vibe. Buy prêt-a-porter or have one tailored to perfection in three to six months. By appointment only. KATE SPADE Shop 150, 1/F, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2116-4998. 76

W H E R E G U E ST B O OK

I.T

You can’t go wrong with Kate Spade’s deceptively simple bags and shoes in stunning fabrics. KINJI Shop 3021, 3/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2295-1182, www.kinji.net. This Japanese brand produces kimonoinfluenced jackets, sweet tops and knits in the most delicate and beautiful fabrics imaginable. Look for its cashmere stoles, scarves, wraps and throws. KOTUR Available at Harvey Nichols, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3695-3388, www.harveynichols.com. Hong Kong-based designer Fiona Kotur-Marin has made quite a splash internationally with a range of bags, shoes and accessories made in gorgeous vintage Chinese brocades. LOUIS VUITTON Shop 9A, G/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2523-2915. Two floors of iconic LV bags and fashion in all their (n)ever-changing glory.

HUGO BOSS 8 2 2092-2093

JOHANNA HO 13

2851-8351

3188-1171 1,700

I.T 1 20

2972-2572 I.T

JOYCE BOUTIQUE 18

2810-1120

I.T i.t

Anna Robert Dennis John Galliano

Sui

INITIAL FASHION 17-19

KANCHAN COUTURE 37-39 KanchanPanjabi

KATE SPADE 88

JIMMY CHOO 15

KateSpade JimmyChoo

A

7


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TASSELS – Gentlemen's Shoe Store-屹駐繁囂都市 的紳士俱樂部,匯聚來自意大利、英國及美國的頂級男 士皮鞋品牌。從傳統正裝鞋、時尚靴款到休閒便服鞋, TASSELS於今年繼續為每位品味男士及皮鞋愛好者精選 出最優質的鞋履款式,展現百年傳統與前衛氣派交織而成 的嶄新美學。

TASSELS 透過各種色調、優質皮革及線條展現不同國家 的鞋履風潮。皮鞋再非單一的西裝配搭單品,如今亦可搭 配牛仔服飾或夏日短褲造型,成為休閒的生活配備。

TASSELS – Gentlemen's Shoe Store代理品牌包括: Alden – 最後一個以家族模式經營的男士優質皮鞋製造 商。自1884年起於美國開始其生產事業,其經典風格及 耐用品質成功讓Alden成為歐洲及日本等地被受追隨的高 級鞋履品牌。 Bontoni – 體現了意大利傳統小型鞋匠工作室,經過世代 流傳仍然堅守嚴謹的技術及創意,美譽廣泛流傳。 Crockett & Jones – 擁有超過125年人手拉線皮鞋的製作 經驗,每對皮鞋需要長達八星期的時間,經過200道的艱 苦程序才能夠完成製作。

www.tassels.com.hk

Edward Green – 皮鞋均由專業的鞋匠以人手縫製,每年 只能夠為全球限量製造11,000雙皮鞋,熱切的需求量遠遠 超出其供應量。

香港中環置地廣場地庫B64-65號店 每日早上 10:30 至 晚上 8:00 從中環港鐵站G出口只是幾步之遙,位於置地廣場地 庫,鄰近香港置地文華東方酒店。 2789 9911

店內尚有更多紳士鞋款可供選擇。親臨TASSELS Gentlemen's Shoe Store,在恬謐怡人的高級鞋履精品店 內選購或透過特別訂造服務為自己打造一雙充滿內涵的皮 鞋,同時領略傳統手工的細膩,開創優雅的時尚風格。

北京市朝陽區光華路1號嘉里中心商場107店 每日早上10:00至晚上10:00 位於嘉里中心商場一樓,鄰近北京嘉裡大酒店及中國 國貿三期。 +86 10 8529 8060


LU LU CHEUNG Shop B, G/F, 50 Wellington St., Central, 2537-7515, www.lulucheng.com.hk. Hong Kong designer Lu Lu Cheung launched her own label in the 1990s and hasn’t looked back. She lovingly tailors gorgeous clothes in natural fabrics, which manage to be both flirty and edgy. Casual, work and evening dresses are available. MANOLO BLAHNIK Shop 203, 2/F, The Landmark Atrium, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2845-1575. If one man could be held responsible for fetishizing women’s stilettos, it’s Blahnik—well-shod women everywhere swear by their Manolos. He personally designs every pair of beautiful killer heels that bear his name. ON PEDDER AT JOYCE New World Tower, 18 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2118-3489. Shoe porn from some of the hottest brands on the planet, including Christian Louboutin, Jimmy Choo, Junya Watanabe, Stella McCartney, Pierre Hardy and many more. The delicious flagship store was designed by New York-based Calvin Tsao, who was inspired by a jewelry box filled with hidden treasures. It’s part of the Lane Crawford group. PAUL SMITH Shop 216B, 2/F, The Landmark Atrium, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2523-5868. Tailoring with a twist from the British knight. PRADA Shop G4& 102, G-1/F, Alexandra House, 6B Ice House St., Central, 2522-2989. Fabulously understated, trend-setting Italian fashion. RALPH LAUREN Shop G14-G16 & 113-114, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2537- 0760. Clean-cut preppy American clothing for the smart-casual set. 78

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SALVATORE FERRAGAMO Shop G1-2, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2523-0899. The finest in Florentine footwear. SPY HENRY LAU 1/F, Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, 1 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2584-4146, www.spyhenrylau.com. An uber-cool local brand known for blingy accessories and edgy undies, Spy is rapidly becoming established internationally for its casual and notso-casual fashion for men and women. Customized designs available. TANGRAM K11 Mall, 18 Hanoi Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, www.tngrm.net. Formerly a designer for Zara, Paola Sinisterra’s designs are defined by bold colors, bright patterns and simple silhouettes. The brand—which started out as an e-shop—recently opened its first physical store in K11.

McCartney

KINJI

Pierre Hardy

8

PAUL SMITH 15 KOTUR 15

Harvey Nichols

PRADA

Fiona Kotur Marin

6B

15

RALPH LAUREN

9A

15

LU LU CHEUNG 50

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

B

5 90

SPY HENRY LAU MANOLO BLAHNIK 15

1 2 203 Spy

2845-1575

TED BAKER Shop 147, 1/F, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2918-9609, www.tedbaker.com. Ted Baker is a British contemporary fashion house that offers trendy pieces for both men and women. Bold, eye-catching offerings include clothing, accessories, footwear, fragrances, eyewear and watches.

Blahnik Manolos

TANGRAM 18

ON PEDDER AT JOYCE Zara

16

ChristianLouboutin JimmyChoo

Stella

Paola Sinisterra

K11

TOD’S Shop 19-20, G/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2810-8692, www.tods.com. Best known for its loafer-style driving shoes, this flagship Italian brand also has other refined leather goods for sale. TOPSHOP 56 Queen’s Rd. Central, 21185383. The popular British brand’s first store landed in Hong Kong last summer, amid much buzz and anticipation. Expect rapidly changing shelf content, a huge range of clothes, shoes and accessories, plus well-designed fast fashion. TSE CASHMERE Shop 304-305, 3/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2147-3033,

PAUL SMITH


www.tsecashmere.com. Cashmere like you’ve never seen it before. Tse uses the softest, lightest cashmere in classic, fashionable and avant-garde designs for women, men, babies and home. It’s not cheap, but the quality is superb. VALENTINO Shop 2070, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2234-7193, www.valentino.com. Elegant couture dresses and gowns, paired with the highest quality bags, shoes and small leather goods, are what Valentino has to offer. VIVIENNE TAM Shop LG32, Fashion Walk, Houston Street, Causeway Bay, 2881-0006, www.viviennetam.com. High fashion with Asian characteristics, such as cocktail dresses with cheongsam collars and stretchy tops with Buddha prints. Vivienne Tam has a big celebrity following, including red-carpet honors for Julia Roberts, Madonna, Heather Graham, Sarah Jessica Parker and Beyonce.

LIFESTYLE AMELIE & TULIPS G/F, 56 Sai St., Sheung Wan, 2291-0005. (Entrance On Tai Ping Shan Street) This new addition to trendy Tai Ping Shan Street in Sheung Wan specializes in Scandinavian home furnishings. ALUMINIUM Shop F, Lower Basement-G/F, Queen’s Centre, 58-64 Queen’s Rd. East, Wan Chai, 2577-4066, www.hk-aluminium.com. This is the place for modern design classics, including Eero Aarnio bubble chairs, 1970s Curve lamps, Marimekko fabrics and Philippe Starck’s Victoria Ghost chair. AMOURS ANTIQUE G/F, 45 Staunton St., Central, 2803-7877. Entering this SoHo treasure trove is like wandering into an old aunt’s attic full of kitschy knick-knacks, intriguing antiques and vintage clothing. Art Deco

handbags rub shoulders with classic Disney trinkets, old buttons, figurines, dolls, clocks, pictures—you name it. BOOKWORKS Room 202, Hing Tai Commercial Building, 114 Wing Lok St., Sheung Wan, 2559-0175, www.bookworks.com.hk. Beautiful handmade notebooks, journals and albums, covered in Chinese brocades and silk, make the perfect souvenir— where better to display your pictures of Hong Kong? DG LIFESTYLE STORE Shop 120, 1/F, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2918-4811, www.designergroup.com.hk. DG Lifestyle has hundreds of accessories for iPods and other gadgets for Mac fans. Also offers gift cards. FLEA + CENTS 1/F, 36 Queen’s Rd. East, Wan Chai, 2528-0808, www.fleancents.com. This kooky little shop has a wonderful mixture of antiques and quirky midcentury items, including vintage clocks, electronics and office furniture, as well as more modern creations by Dutch and German minimalist designers, including Droog Design. FRANC FRANC Shop B, G-1/F, 8 Kingston Street, Fashion Walk, Causeway Bay 3583-2528, www.francfranc.com. Funkier than your average shop, this Japanese furniture and home accessories store is just the place for that groovy gift or contemporary addition to your home. The stock changes rapidly but is always intriguing. G.O.D. 48 Hollywood Road, Central, 2805-1876, www.god.com.hk. G.O.D. (Goods of Desire) is the phonetic sound of the Cantonese slang "to live better." It sells modern furniture, household goods, clothing and accessories with a witty Hong Kong twist, such as Yau Ma Tei-patterned bags (they carry other neighborhoods, too), double

Vivienne Tam

TED BAKER 88 1 147 2918-9609 www.tedbaker.com Ted Baker

TOD’S 19-20

15 2810-8692 www.tods.com

AMELIE & TULIPS 56

2291-0005

TOPSHOP 56

2118-5383

ALUMINIUM F Aarnio

TSE CASHMERE 15 304-305 2147-3033 www.tsecashmere.com TSE

58-64 2577-4066 www.hk-aluminium.com Bubble Chair Curve lamps

Marimekko Philippe Starck Ghost Chair

Eero 1970

Victoria

AMOURS ANTIQUE 45

2803-7877

VALENTINO 15 2 2027 2234-7193 www.valentino.com Valentino 2007

BOOKWORKS 114 202 2559-0175 www.bookworks.com.hk

VIVIENNE TAM 32 2881-0006 www.viviennetam.com

Louise Garnaut

TOPSHOP


happiness trivets, Chinese newspaperprint mousepads and triad-print (triads are Hong Kong gangs) bed linens. HOMELESS G/F, 29 Gough St., Central, 2581-1880, www.homelessconcept.com. Homeless is a lifestyle concept store that sells furniture, lighting, designer items and home accessories. A special emphasis is placed on inspired products with innovative, original and creative designs. MELAINE 1/F 38 Cochrane St., Central, 2815-7873, www.melaine.com.hk. This sweet little store is a treasure trove of contemporary Chinese style, from fuchsia- and lime greenlacquered cabinets to funky jade jewelry. It also has a range of Asianinspired clothing, wallets made from kimono fabric and shoes for men and women. TANG TANG TANG TANG 66 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2525-2112, www.tangtangtangtang.com. Sir David Tang’s latest project is a casual lifestyle shop that stocks everything from rice cookers to cufflinks to pyjamas. VOLARE Shop 2B, Fairview Mansion, 51 Paterson St., Causeway Bay, 3691-8072. Hong Kong-brand Volare has spread its wings into a new concept store in Causeway Bay. After studying leather work in Italy and Israel, founder Franco Yeung returned to Hong Kong to launch Volare in 2008, and has been handcrafting gorgeous collections of bags, shoes and accessories ever since. WOAW 11 Gough St., Central, 2253-1313, www.woawstore.com. The World of Amazing Wonders shop is opened by designer-slashentrepreneur Kevin Poon, and stocks 80

W H E R E G U E ST B O OK

accessories like sunglasses, stationery, bags and gadgets.

JEWELRY CARTIER 18 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, 2522-2296, www.cartier.com. One of Europe’s famous old jewelers, Cartier has a world-renowned reputation and high prices. CHOW TAI FOOK Shop 2-3, G/F, 1 Great George St., Causeway Bay, 2587-7328. CTF is a well-known jeweller across Hong Kong and China, offering gold, platinum, diamond and other precious stone crafted pieces as well as brandname watches. CHOW SANG SANG 37 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3583-4150, chowsangsang.com. This high-end jewelry shop has everything from bangles and earrings to wedding bands.

G.O.D.

DG LIFESTYLE STORE 88 DG Lifestyle

66

2525-2112

iPod

FLEA CENTS

Volare

36 1

2528-0808

51 Volare Franco Yeung 2008

Droog Design

HAYWARDS 13/F, Hollywood Centre, Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2545-4400, www.haywards.com.hk. Haywards can help you bring to life the diamond ring/accessory of your dreams. Book an appointment to discuss the design process.

FRANC FRANC

KING FOOK JEWELLERY Shop G23&G25, G/F, Windsor House, 311 Gloucester Rd., Causeway Bay, 2890-3773. King Fook Jewellery was established over 50 years ago, offering customers top-tier jewelry brands from around the world. With many branches around Hong Kong, some stores also stock a selection of diamonds and high-end watches, like the Masterpiece by King Fook at Pacific Place.

G.O.D. Goods Of Desire

LARRY JEWELRY G/F, 72 Queen's Rd. Central, 2521-1268, www.larryjewelry.com. A Hong Kong institution since 1967, Larry Jewelry specializes in fine jewelry with an abundance of precious stones.

TANG TANG TANG TANG

1 120

Volare

WOAW

8

11

2253-1313

World of Amazing Wonders

48

2805-1876

18

2522-2296 www.cartier.com

Love

HOMELESS 29

2581-1880

Homeless

2-3

MELAINE 38 1

2815-7873 37

2587-7328


SHOPPING MIKIMOTO Shop 309, Times Square, 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay, 2506-1183, www.mikimoto.com.hk. The famous Japanese pearl company offers classic strings of South Sea pearls and more contemporary confections featuring what was once the most expensive jewel on the planet. PRINCE JEWELLERY Shop B-C, G/F, 58 Russell St., Causeway Bay, 2776-0688. This local jewelry shop stocks brandname watches and bling accessories for the men and the ladies. PIAGET Shop 5, Mandarin Oriental Hotel, 5 Connaught Rd., Central, 2530-2188, www.piaget.com. This Swiss company is known worldwide for its luxury watches and fine jewelry, including diamond-encrusted necklaces, his-and-hers engagement rings and more. SHEEN JEWELRY Shop 9B, Grand Progress Building, 15 Lan Kwai Fong, Central, 2592-7316, www.sheenjewelry.com. Selina Cheng Yee-kay produces jewelry in her own studio, working mainly in gold and often incorporating antique jade or other stones.

TAYMA FINE JEWELLERY Shop 225, 2/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2525-5280, www.taymajewellery.com. Visit designer Tayma Paige Allies’s cheerful and elegant jewelry store at the Prince’s Building. TIFFANY & CO. Shop 62-63, G/F, The Landmark, Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2845-9853, www.tiffany.com. Ah, Tiffany’s. As Audrey Hepburn once said, nothing very bad could happen to you there. The Hong Kong branches of the venerable U.S. jeweler stocks Tiffany’s own designs. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Shop G16 - G17, G/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2522-9677, www.vancleef-arpels.com/hk. This famous French jewelry house sells stop-of-the-line fine jewelry and watches. Established in 1896, it boasts a long list of famous clients.

HAYWARDS 233

5

Haywards

SHEEN JEWELRY 15 311

9B

G23 G25 Selina Cheng Yee kay

2890-3773 50 Masterpiece by King Fook

TAYMA FINE JEWELLERY 10

2 225

Tayma Paige Allies 1990

72 1967

2845-9853

MIKIMOTO 2506 1183

1 309 www.mikimoto.com.hk

Diamonds By The Yard Elsa Peretti Frank Gehry

10 58

B-C

Paloma Picasso

16-17

2776-0688 1896

TANG TANG TANG TANG

WHERE G UEST B OOK

81


Dining &Nightlife IF YOU'RE LOOKING FOR GREAT FOOD, YOU'RE IN THE RIGHT CITY. CANTONESE CLASSICS, CHINESE DISHES, EUROPEAN CUISINE AND JUST ABOUT ANYTHING WORTH DEVOURING IS AVAILABLE ON A PLATE NEAR YOU. COME HUNGRY.

CHINA TANG 82

W H E R E G U E ST B O OK


DINING & NIGHTLIFE 208 DUECENTO OTTO 208 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2549-0208. A table at the upstairs restaurant of this neighborhood hangout on the weekend is hot property, so we suggest booking well in advance. At the buzzing downstairs bar, perch and nibble on their delicious pizza and sip one of the 20 wines they serve by the glass. Low dark wooden ceilings, steel pillars and marble table tops give 208 a trendy air while distinctive blue and white tiles add a cool edge. The menu has its roots in rustic Italian, but there are plenty of contemporary global twists. 8 1/2 OTTO E MEZZO Shop 202, Alexandra House, 18 Chater Rd., Central, 2537-8859. This A-list locale is the first and only Italian restaurant in Hong Kong to earn three Michelin stars. The intimate lounge and bar area exudes Marlon Brando cool, with its dimmed lighting and wooden furnishings. Chef Bombana’s unique brand of contemporary Italian cuisine is offered in the regularly changing decadent lunch and dinner sets (though an à la carte menu is also available). ABOVE & BEYOND 28/F, Hotel Icon, 17 Science Museum Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui East, 3400-1318. Go to this narrow but inviting restaurant for a variety of innovative dim sum dishes and expertly tweaked Chinese mains. One standout: the thick, bubbly congee, which contains swirls of creamy egg yolk in each spoonful. AGNÈS B. LE PAIN GRILLÉ Shop 3089-3097B, 3/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2805-0798. This pain grillé, at the Agnès b. flagship store, has exquisite interiors designed by Andre Fu. A hauntingly sexy lounge opens into the adorable “library” area, inspired by Le Fumoir next to the Louvre, one of Agnès’s favorite restaurants. This particular outlet focuses on seafood imported directly from France. Try their Byzantine seafood platter and the hearty bouillabaisse. The tender, juicy mussels in white wine cream sauce are also a must.

AMBER 7/F, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2132-0066. Chef Richard Ekkebus and his team create classic French dishes that are given an innovative twist. The raspberry and beetroot foie gras lollipops are not to be missed. AMERICAN RESTAURANT 20 Lockhart Rd., Wan Chai, 2527-1000. Though it opened right after World War II, little has changed at this familystyle establishment that serves up hearty Chinese food. Although it has an English menu with more than 200 dishes available, favorites have always been the Peking duck and the beggar’s chicken. This restaurant has a great atmosphere and is often filled with noisy celebratory patrons. AN NAM 4/F, Lee Gardens One, 33 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, 2787-3922. An Nam serves Vietnamese-style dishes in an exquisitely designed setting. Diners can savor fresh seafood and roast meats as well as traditional delicacies from the region of Hue. ANGELINI M/F, Kowloon Shangri-La, 64 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui East, 2733-8750. The best harbor views are from Tsim Sha Tsui, with the lights of Hong Kong Island twinkling away across the water. Angelini makes the most of its harbor location, letting the huge picture windows steal the show from the elegant décor. The food is good, too: honest, perfectly cooked Italian cuisine with an emphasis on seafood. AQUA 29/F-30/F, One Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3427-2288. Location, location, location. Perched on the top floor of One Peking Road, this sleek spot has unbeatable views of the harbor. The uber-chic glass-andmirrored interior features high ceilings, sexy light fixtures and three tiers of plush seating. Take a seat at one of the circular booths and choose from either

AN NAM

208 DUECENTO OTTO 208

Le Fumoir

2549-0208

Agnès

20

AMBER 15 7 18

2132-0066 Richard

8 OTTO E MEZZO 202

2537-8859

Bombana

Ekkebus

20

2527-1000

200 17

28

3400-1318

33

1 4

2787-3922

AGNÈS B. LE PAIN GRILLÉ 8 3089-3097B Agnès b.

2805-0798 Andre Fu

WHERE G UEST B OOK

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CHACHAWAN

BLOOM

the Aqua Roma or Aqua Tokyo menus, or mix and match. But don’t go home without trying the lychee martini. AVA RESTAURANT SLASH BAR 38/F, Hotel Panorama by Rhombus, 8A Hart Avenue, Tsim Sha Tsui, 3550-0262. This cutting-edge restaurant boasts a stellar view of the Hong Kong skyline— and a truly creative menu. After 11pm, Ava seamlessly and appropriately transforms into a swanky bar. BLOOM 5/F-6/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2810-6166. Since opening in August 2010, Bloom has been universally heralded as SoHo’s go-to restaurant for its ridiculously awesome design, elaborate cocktails and homey-yet-upscale food. Its offerings include an extensive raw bar, surf and turf, and deliciously creamy mac ’n’ cheese. The juicy and sizable pork chop with a side of smoky ribs is a good bet for an entrée. 84

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BO INNOVATION 2/F, J Residence, 60 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2850-8371. “Demon chef” Alvin Leung is known for his innovative takes on Asian cuisine, breaking down centuries-old concepts of what Chinese food should look and taste like. Steamed soup dumplings get transformed into different shapes, textures and sizes, and many other things don’t look like they’re supposed to at this three Michelin-starred restaurant. BRICKHOUSE G/F, 20 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2810-0560. Tucked away in Lan Kwai Fong, Brickhouse is one of Hong Kong’s best Mexican diners. Enjoy fresh tacos and ceviches as well as some uniquely delicious cocktails at this truly hipster establishment. CAFE DECO 1/F-2/F, Peak Galleria, 118 Peak Rd., The Peak, 2849-5111. With its fabulous view and floor-toceiling windows, international restaurant

ANGELINI

BLOOM 64 2010

2733-8750

33 LKF Tower 5-6 2810-6166 8 Bloom

Angelini

AQUA

BO INNOVATION 1 29-30

3427-2288 1

60 2

2850-8371

Aqua Roma

Aqua Tokyo

Brickhouse AVA RESTAURANT SLASH BAR 8A

Ava

38

20

3550-0262

2810-0560 Brickhouse

Mike Boyle 11 Ava 118

1-2

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DINING & NIGHTLIFE Cafe Deco is a great stop after shopping at the Peak Galleria. Choose from Asian dishes like curry and mee goreng to International favorites. CAFE GRAY DELUXE 49/F, The Upper House, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 3968-1106. This “grand café” is located on the 49th floor and serves up modern interpretations of classic European cuisine made from fresh, organic ingredients. The food is the star of the show here, but competing for your attention is an eye-catching 14-meter bar, a symmetrical theater kitchen and spectacular harbor views. CAFE SIAM 2-3/F, The Plaza, 21 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2851-4803. The menu here is unmistakably Thai, and during lunch there are a variety of executive and regular lunch sets to choose from. We recommend their hearty tom yum goong soup as well as their fried noodle dishes. CAPRICE Four Seasons Hong Kong, 6/F, 8 Finance St., Central, 3196-8888. The gorgeous interior design of this two Michelin starred restaurant includes five chandeliers, floor-to-ceiling windows and a glowing walkway past a huge open kitchen. Service is near flawless and a French sommelier steers you through the hundreds of wines on the list. Relaxed atmosphere, creative dishes by chef Fabrice Vulin and a heartstoppingly expensive bill are all part of the experience. CELESTIAL COURT CHINESE RESTAURANT 2/F, Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Towers, 20 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2369-1111. With its burl-wood paneling and silk wall coverings, Celestial Court’s menu changes with the seasons and the chef regularly travels to Guangdong to hunt down new and traditional dishes. Don’t miss the dim sum, all made by hand in the restaurant kitchen.

C’EST LA B Shop 202, 2/F, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2536-0173. This gorgeous cakery slash café by local diva Bonnie Gokson is perfect for a midday snack and tea break. CHACHAWAN G/F, 206 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan 2549-0020. Chachawan serves up Issan-style Thai dishes that truly pack a punch. Try the salt-baked whole seabass and finish with some salted coconut dumplings. The bar also brews a mean cocktail. CHE’S CANTONESE RESTAURANT 4/F, The Broadway, 54-62 Lockhart Rd., Wan Chai, 2528-1123. Che’s combination of traditional Cantonese cuisine and its discreet location are the reasons that this eatery is well-patronized by well-dressed groups. There’s an extensive dim sum menu for lunch and an à la carte dinner menu that includes dishes like spare ribs rubbed with shrimp paste, and deep-fried chicken with beautifully crispy skin. You’re sure to find dishes to satisfy and a laid-back atmosphere absent from most Cantonese restaurants. CHINA TANG Shop 411-413, 4/F, Landmark Atrium, Central, 2522-2148. Following the success of Island Tang and Kowloon Tang, Sir David Tang continues with China Tang, offering top delicacies from Beijing, Sichuan and Guangdong in a luxurious setting. CLASSIFIED 31 Wing Fung St., Wan Chai, 2528-3454. With a sidewalk setting, this tiny, open-fronted restaurant is cozy yet airy. There are only two communal tables, meaning that you have to share, but with cheese this good, who’s complaining? Start with a hunk of buffalo mozzarella from their daily selection. Served with rocket and Italian tomatoes, the fresh cheese is soft with a natural mild taste. If you want to fill up further, opt for their homemade flatbread.

CHINA TANG

C’EST LA B 88 2 202

CAFÉ GRAY DELUXE 88

49

3968-1106 49 14

2536-0173

Bonnie Gokson

CHACHAWAN 206 Issan

CAFÉ SIAM 21 The Plaza 2-3

2549-0020 Chachawan

2851-4803

54-62

4

2528-1123

CAPRICE 8

6

3196-8888

Fabrice Vulin 4 411-413

20

2522-2148

2

2369-1111

CLASSIFIED 31

2528-3454

WHERE G UEST B OOK

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CUCINA

CUCINA 6/F, Marco Polo Hongkong Hotel, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2113-0808. Enjoy authentic Italian dishes like pastas and pizzas at this hotel restaurant in bustling Harbour City. An antipasti buffet and afternoon tea set are also available. CUISINE CUISINE Shop 3101-3107, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2393-3933. Just entering this restaurant is impressive: a majestically designed hallway adorned with exquisite glasswork and a subtle, flowing fountain. The menu is long and dishes are beautifully presented. Try their Angus beef with broccoli, hand-shredded chicken, bean shoots with crab roe and fried rice with dried shrimp and sea urchin. The food is all delicious, and the staff helpful. DIN TAI FUNG Shop 3-9, G/F, 68 Yee Wo St., Causeway Bay, 3160-8998. The xiaolongbao at Taiwanese chain restaurant Din Tai Fung are arguably the most delectable soup-filled pork dumplings in the city, with delicately fine skin and succulent, juicy meat. We also love the flavorful Taiwanese pork 86

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chop, pleasing Zhejiang-style sticky rice dumplings and the spicy Sichuan long wontons in a rich sauce of smoked chili (instead of the orthodox red hot chili oil). DONG LAI SHUN B2/F, The Royal Garden Hotel, 69 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2733-2020. Established in Beijing since 1903, this restaurant serves high-end Beijing and Huaiyang cuisine. Anything made with lamb is a highlight, especially the Inner Mongolian mutton hotpot during winter months.

EL CID 9-11

C D

CUCINA 6

2113-0808

FEAST 29 3968-3777 Food by East Feast

8 2393-3933

3101-3107

FELIX EL CID Shop C&D, G/F, 9-11 Cleveland St., Causeway Bay, 2576-8650. Enjoy hearty Spanish fare like paellas and tapas platters in a secluded alfresco alleyway in bustling Causeway Bay. FEAST East Hotel, 29 Taikoo Shing Rd., Island East, 3968-3777. Food by East—or Feast for short—is the buffet-style restaurant at Swire’s stylish business hotel in Taikoo. Expect international fare including rib-eye steak with thin, crispy fries and a goat’s curd and mushroom tart with pancetta crumble and lobster foam in an airy, well-designed space.

2576-8650

28

68

3-9

3160-8998

2315-3188

FELIX

FINDS 39 1

69 1903

2733-2020

2522-9318 FINDS



FELIX 28/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2696-6778. Felix is still a swanky resto in town, with Philippe Starck décor, modern European food and famous bathrooms—thanks to the view from the gents. The small, space-age bar is great for pre- or postdinner cocktails. FINDS 1/F, The Luxe Manor, 39 Kimberley Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2522-9318. For something totally different, try the Scandinavian food at FINDS (the name stands for Finland, Iceland, Norway, Denmark and Sweden), which serves excellent fish, game and meat dishes. Try the house-smoked salmon, served with morel mushrooms. FLINT 5/F, JW Marriott Hotel, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2810-8366. Enjoy hearty steaks and seafood at this contemporary restaurant at the JW Marriott, and finish with an impressive dessert like baked Alaksa or key lime cheesecake. FOOK LAM MOON 53-59 Kimberley Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-0286. Devotees swear this Cantonese fine diner serves the best Cantonese cuisine in the world, and the food is pretty darn good—with prices to match. Something of a throwback to old Hong Kong, and popular with the city’s older crowd, it’s been the go-to for Chinese specialties for more than five decades. GADDI’S 1/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2696-6763. Where else can you dine to the strains of a live chamber orchestra? This is the finest of dining in a formal room with chandeliers, unparalleled service and an endless wine list. You might splash out to eat at the chef’s table, or try the surprisingly affordable set lunch. Everything is delicious and delicate. GAIA G/F, Grand Millennium Plaza, 181 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2167-8200.

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What’s not to like? Excellent Italian cuisine and a charming alfresco terrace set among lush trees on an Italian piazza— and when the going gets too hot, there’s an equally pleasant contemporary interior with Ferrari red seating and a bar. The antipasti buffet is a legend at lunchtime. GOLD 2/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2869-9986. Chef Harlan Goldstein’s restaurant got its inaugural Michelin star this year. And with Harlan’s Midas touch, this is the venue to see and be seen. There’s classy furniture, elegant sculptural lighting, and—not too surprisingly—the color gold as its theme. Think rose gold silverware, elegant table settings and casino-thick carpets. Gold serves a wide range of international and ethnic food, inspired by the diversity of Harlan’s Lower East Side roots.

FLINT JW JW

GAIA 88 5

181

2167-8200

2810-8366

GOLD 53-59

2366-0286

33 LKF Tower 2 Harlan Goldstein

2869-9986

50

Gold 1

2696-6763

23-25 1

2376-1001

GAYLORD 1/F, Ashley Center, 23-25 Ashley Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2376-1001. This long-standing Indian restaurant and its cheerful staff have been serving classy Indian cuisine in Tsim Sha Tsui for years. The creamy daal and the butter chicken are to die for. The other highlight is their Indian band, with tabla beats and a droning sitar, performing live every night. GRAND HYATT STEAKHOUSE Grand Hyatt Hong Kong, 1 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2584-7722. With the Rolling Stones playing throughout rooms decked out in dark wood and leather, this steakhouse has an old-school feel—as does the menu, with classics that focus on traditional execution rather than edgy experimentation. Beef-lovers can choose between an array of prime cuts, from Japanese wagyu to Nebraska USDA prime tenderloin to Canadian heritage Angus with a homemade truffle mustard, sweet potato fries and tomato salad. The jet-fresh seafood platter with lobster from Maine, cracked king crab, hearty mussels and Belon oysters is equally impressive. GREYHOUND CAFÉ Shop 1082, 1/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2383-1133. Greyhound Café is an upscale diner straight from Bangkok serving international cuisine,

FLINT



from Thai specials to Italian pastas, in a contemporary setting with hard surfaces, understated colors and an alluring dessert station. GRISSINI 2/F, Grand Hyatt Hong Kong, 1 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2588-1234. A fabulous northern Italian restaurant with fantastic service, top-notch cuisine and peerless wine service. Floor-toceiling windows afford a fantastic view of Tsim Sha Tsui and the delicious aromas will drive you mad as you await your meal. The food is so good it’s hard to envision anyone leaving the restaurant anything but content. HARLAN’S Shop 2075, 19/F, The One, 100 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2972-2222. Harlan’s has been wowing the wellheeled crowd since it opened, and it’s still packing ‘em in on a nightly basis. The view alone makes this destination dining, but the food is equally stellar: innovative, light, fresh and utterly contemporary.

Go for the simple six-oyster set or one of the signature dishes. We recommend the slow-cooked wagyu beef cheek with mashed potatoes and cipolle gravy, and the spaghetti with lobster, basil, tomatoes, fennel and shellfish sauce. HE JIANG 1/F, Cosmopolitan Hotel Hong Kong, 387-397 Queen’s Rd. East, Causeway Bay, 3167-7833. He Jiang fuses numbingly hot Sichuan cuisine with light and sweet Huaiyang cuisine. The snow vegetables with squid and soybeans make for a refreshing starter, and other specialties include the feisty sautéed eggplant with spicy garlic and chili, the soothing, Huaiyang tea-leaf smoked eel and the Sichuan schoolchildrens’ favorite, dan dan mian, with hot pepper sauce. HOI KING HEEN B2/F, InterContinental Grand Stanford Hotel, 70 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2731-2883. Located in the hotel basement, the restaurant is neither too kitsch nor

GRAND HYATT STEAKHOUSE 1

2584-7722

HARLAN’S 100 The ONE 19 2075 Harlan s

2972-2222

6

387-397

1

3167-7833

GREYHOUND CAFÉ 8 1 1082 2383-1133 Greyhound Café

GRISSINI 1

2

2588-1234

70 B2

2731-2883

GRAND HYATT STEAKHOUSE

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too Chinese—a good thing. The Peking duck comes with the whole presentation: the “lotus leaf pancakes” are nicely steamed on top of the stove and there are individual sets of sauce and spring onions for each person. The signature beef dish with asparagus, raisin and beans, an award-winner, is also nice. HOI YAT HEEN 2/F, Harbour Grand Kowloon, 20 Tak Fung St., Whampoa Garden, Hung Hom, 2996-8460. The tastes of Canton province and the views of modern day Hong Kong and Victoria Harbour unite to create a memorable Chinese dining experience. The dim sum is especially savory, and the space plays host to many a family get-together, wedding banquet and business lunch. HUGO’S Hyatt Regency Tsim Sha Tsui, K11, 18 Hanoi Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3721-7733. Everyone’s delighted that this old TST restaurant has been revived in the brandnew Hyatt Regency on Hanoi Road. It’s all about old-fashioned elegance and classic western dishes here—from Australian, Japanese, French and Irish steaks to French lobster and everything in between—and the discreet, almost clairvoyant service is the kind that’s hard to find these days. HUTONG 28/F, One Peking Road, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3428-8342. There’s no debate: this celeb favorite is gorgeous. With its dark, unlacquered wood furnishings and fabulous harbor view, you simultaneously feel like you are in a northern Chinese dining hall and a modern, elegant restaurant. Food is beautifully presented northern Chinese haute cuisine. INAGIKU JAPANESE RESTAURANT 4/F, Four Seasons Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central, 2805-0600. This is a Hong Kong branch of one of Japan’s oldest and best-known restaurants—and yes, the food lives up to the buzz: authentic, delicious and 92

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quiveringly fresh. The peaceful, zen-like atmosphere is reason enough to visit Inagiku. A stroll past the funky bar brings you to the main dining room with floor-to-ceiling views of Victoria Harbour, and a teppanyaki station where you can watch the chefs in action. INAKAYA Shop A, 101/F, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2972-2666. Inakaya boasts the prettiest robata counter in the city—plates and plates of colorful vegetables, meats and seafood are spread out in front of the patrons— and claims the superlative title of the highest robatayaki joint in the world. ISLAND TANG Shop 222, The Galleria, 9 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2526-8798. Sir David Tang’s restaurant is decked out in full Art Deco regalia, from the high ceilings, plush leather chairs and etched mirrors down to the tiniest details, such as the crystal-stoppered soy sauce bottles. The wok-fried wagyu is divine—you’ll be treated to juicy, succulent cubes of prime beef in a rich sauce. The Sichuan prawns are equally superb. ISOLA BAR & GRILL Shop 3071-3075, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2383-8765. Isola’s space is spread out to maximize the stunning harbor views, with high ceilings, hardwood floors and bas-relief motifs. The antipasti, pastas and pizzas at this restaurant are all worth a try. JADE GARDEN 3/F, Causeway Bay Plaza 2, 463-483 Lockhart Rd., Causeway Bay, 2573-9339. Jade Garden is a local institution, serving up specialty dishes from around China, such as Peking duck, beggar’s chicken and bird’s nest soup with morsels of crabmeat. It’s big, bright and deservedly popular. JARDIN DE JADE Shop G3, G/F, Sun Hung Kai Centre, 30 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 3528-0228. Renowned Shanghainese restaurant Jardin de Jade’s menu draws inspiration from the Zhenjiang and Suzhou

HUGO'S

20 2

8

4

2805-0600

2996-8460

18 K11

3721-7733

1 28

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regions. Classics include preserved pork served chilled with Zhenjiang black vinegar and sautéed hairy crab with Shanghainese rice cakes. They’re also taking pride in their signature teasmoked duck, pan-braised Japanese sea cucumber and—of course—their juicy xiaolongbao soup dumplings. JASHAN 1/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Rd., Central, 3105-5300. Jashan offers an extensive Indian menu, delicious food and reliable service, with clay oven roasted king prawns and flavorful curries topping the menu. A great-value lunch buffet is available on weekdays. JIMMY’S KITCHEN Shop C-C1, G/F, Kowloon Centre, 29 Ashley Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2376-0327. The old-school international classics that have kept Jimmy’s Kitchen popular for over 80 years continue to impress the crowds. For an added bit of romantic nostalgia, order their famed flaming baked Alaska to end the meal. JIN CUISINE 2/F, Hong Kong Kowloon East Holiday Inn Express, Tower 4, 3 Tong Tak St., Tseung Kwan O, 2623-2333. This Chinese-elements-themed resto is one of the latest from the Royal Garden group, and serves dim sum and traditional Shanghainese delicacies. JUMBO KINGDOM 1 Shum Wan Pier Drive, Aberdeen, 2553-9111. Fun, festive and a Hong Kong institution, Jumbo has been floating in the harbor at Aberdeen for nearly 30 years. It’s not going to be the most typical Chinese meal you’ve ever had, but the dim sum is worth trying, the seafood dishes are pretty good and the atmosphere is fun. It gets all lit up in neon at night. KAIKA 19/F, The One, 100 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2972-2888. Kaika is the first branch of the popular Japanese teppanyaki chain to open up 94

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here in Hong Kong. Nestled high up in The One, this 60-seat restaurant is designed with exclusivity in mind— browns and golds, with two VIP rooms accommodating six to eight guests each. You can’t go wrong with their wide range of delicacies, including the foie gras, abalone, spiny lobster, scallops and organic vegetables imported fresh from Japan. KIN’S KITCHEN 5/F, W Square, 314 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai, 2571-0913. This Cantonese resto is chef, food critic and columnist Lau Kin-wai’s labor of love. Kin‘s Kitchen is a world away from the sweet ‘n’ sour, MSGladen fare you might generally associate with affordable Cantonese food. Picking up secret recipes during his journeys in China, the well-traveled gourmet gives the local cuisine a contemporary makeover. KITCHEN 6/F, W Hong Kong, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 3717-2299. Serving comfort food with a twist in the achingly cool W Hotel, Kitchen offers burgers, sandwiches, pizzas and Hainan chicken rice as well as dishes that could only be called comfort food, reinterpreted: lobster tacos, chicken confit and Thai chicken burgers. KOH THAI G/F, 57 Wyndham St., Central, 2840-0041. Salmon sashimi with green curry sauce? Lamb shank massaman curry? The option to make veggie versions of anything on the menu? Helmed by the former personal chef to the Princess of Thailand, chef Tony Phrumphal, Koh Thai is doing a lot of things right. KOWLOON TANG Shop R002-003, 3/F, Roof Deck, Elements Mall, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2811-9398. Chinese haute cuisine, French desserts and tasty cocktails make up the menu of this classy eatery, which is the newer sister restaurant of the much-vaunted Island Tang in Central.

JASHAN

ISOLA BAR & GRILL

JASHAN

8 3071-3075

23

1

3105-5300

Jashan

2383-8765

JIMMY’S KITCHEN 463-483 2 3 2577-9339

29 2376-0327 Jimmy s

C-C1

Kitchen

80

30

G3

3

3528-0228

2

2623-2333

10

1

2553-9111 30



KOWLOON TANG

L’ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON Shop 315 & 401, 4/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2166-9000. One bite of L’Atelier’s set-course dinners and you’ll understand why Joel Robuchon was named Gault Millau’s “Chef of the Century” and why his Hong Kong outpost was awarded three Michelin stars. This super-chef emphasizes the simplicity and authenticity of his food. Each dish is wrought with exquisite finesse and precision—an ordeal on plain view at the open kitchen, the centerpiece of every L’Atelier from New York to Tokyo. The menu changes seasonally but always remains a cut above that of your average upscale French restaurant. LA VILLA Shop G28, Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui East, 2724-0707. La Villa is located in an airy alfresco courtyard and dishes out hearty steaks and seafood platters for both lunch and dinner. Choose a wine to go along from their exclusive list. 96

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LEI GARDEN Shop 3007-3011, 3/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2295-0238. Although there are many branches of this chain in Hong Kong, all serving excellent Cantonese cuisine, the IFC location is one of the branches with a Michelin star. The surroundings are cleanly contemporary but the food is divinely authentic. Don’t miss the signature crispy roasted pork. LIFE CAFÉ 10 Shelley St., Central, 2810-9777, www.lifecafe.com.hk. The furniture at Life comes from sustainable forests in Indonesia and the menu is organic, from vegetarian lasagna to beer. It’s cheerful and sunlit by day, mellow and candlelit by night, whether on the open terrace or in the cozy dining area. The menu caters to vegans and gluten-, garlic-, onion- and wheat-free dieters.

KOH THAI

100 The ONE 19

2972-2888

57

The ONE

2840-0041

60 Tony Phrumphal 6 8

1 2811-9398

R003-003 W Square 5

314 2571-0913

L’ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON 15

3 2166-9000 L Atelier Joel Robuchon

4 315 401

KITCHEN W

6

Millau

1 3717-2299 W

Kitchen

L Atelier

Gault



LUNG KING HEEN

LINGUINI FINI 1/F, The L Place, 139 Queen's Rd. Central, 2857-1333. It’s all about bold flavor, fresh ingredients and a casual dining environment that doesn’t cut corners on quality. Linguini Fini uses locally grown veggies and fresh meat cuts in its yummy homestyle Italian dishes that are made even better by their reasonable price point. LOBSTER BAR & GRILL 6/F, Island Shangri-La, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2820-8560. It’s all very chic. The swank interior features two large saltwater tanks inhabited by colorful fish. There’s a long mahogany bar leading to the blue-hued dining room, where a jazz band riffs away. The food is flawless, the staff expert and the music good. Signature dishes include the lobster bisque and lobster thermidor with cheese and herbs. 98

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LOONG TOH YUEN Hotel Garden, Hullett House, 1881 Heritage, 2A Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3988-0107. Loong Toh Yuen has an unbeatable ambience. The paper lantern-lined corridor that leads to the stone courtyard in Hullett House really gives this Cantonese restaurant an elegant Chinese feel. The restaurant serves dim sum in the afternoons, and you can expect dishes like deep-fried shrimp rolls made with thousand-year-old egg. LOYAL DINING G/F, 66 Wellington St., Central, 3125-3000. “Soy sauce Western” cuisine gained popularity in the 1960s and 70s, as members of a growing Cantonese middle class got their first taste of dining out and feasting on Western

fare, a then-luxury. That’s what Loyal Dining offers. You’ll find fried rice alongside garlicky soft escargot, foie gras and char siu (barbecue pork), signature roast pigeon and beef Wellington Hong Kong-style (served on a hot iron plate). LUNG KING HEEN 4/F, Four Seasons Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central, 3196-8880. Pass beneath a silver-gilded ceiling into a spacious, stylish room with warm timber floors, sleek dark wood paneling, Chinese antiques and red columns. The xiaolongbao (pork dumplings) at this three-Michelinstarred restaurant come with little handles so they reach your mouth without breaking. The steamed shrimp and scallop dumplings with a topping of XO sauce are pure magic.

LUPA 3/F, LHT Tower, 31 Queen's Rd. Central, 2796-6500. Celebrity chef Mario Batali's first Hong Kong outpost serves simple, savory pastas, pizzas and secondi in a spacious venue that comes with alfresco terrace. Buon appetito! MADAM SIXTY ATE 1/F, The Podium, J Senses, 60 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2527-2558. An open kitchen faces the diners with a handful of chefs scurrying about—the picture of coziness. The menu is a bit eclectic, with sketches of animals morphed into plants and vice versa dotting the pages. This is a great destination buzzed about by foodies for specialties like duck confit and Toulouse sausage.


2014-3-13_where guestbook ad_1.2.1_output.pdf 1 20/3/14 18:25

DINING & NIGHTLIFE

LA VILLA 66 G28

2724-0707

La Villa

8 4

8

3196-8880

3

3007-3011

XO

2295-0238

LUPA 31

3

2796-6500 Mario Batali

LIFE CAFÉ 10

2810-9777

MADAM SIXTY ATE

C

60 J Senses 1

2527-2558

M

Y

LINGUINI FINI

CM

139 1

The L Place 2857-1333

MY

CY

CMY

Linguini Fini

MAIN ST. DELI

K

8 2132-7898 Second Avenue Deli

LOBSTER BAR & GRILL 88 6

2820-8560

5 25

Hullett House

2825-4003

2 A Heritage 1881 3988-0107

Hullett House

66

5-7 2

2521-1303

3125-3000 1960

70

11

WHERE G UEST B OOK

99


MAIN ST. DELI G/F, Langham Hotel, 8 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2132-7898. This place is based on New York’s famous Second Avenue Deli. Indeed, there are few places in the city that feature stacked Reuben sandwiches, monster burgers, or even an authentic Greek salad with feta cheese, Kalamata olives, romaine lettuce, cucumber, red onions and sweet bell pepper. MAN WAH 25/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4003. Straight-up Cantonese fare with an amazing harbor view in an atmosphere of old-world elegance. What more can we say? Make a point of going sooner rather than later. MAXIM’S PALACE CITY HALL 2/F, Low Block, City Hall, 5-7 Edinburgh Place, Central, 2521-1303. If there is one restaurant that epitomizes dim sum culture in Hong Kong, this is it. Ladies pushing carts

of steaming bamboo baskets while barking out the day’s specials, large crowds of Sunday foodies waiting in line for a table and hundreds of variations of little delicious bites of seafood, meat and sweets—in other words, a perfect dim sum Sunday. Go early to avoid the lines (any time before 11am should get you a table). Floor-to-ceiling windows overlook Victoria Harbour and the Star Ferry chugging along to Kowloon and back. METROPOL 4/F, United Centre, 95 Queensway, Admiralty, 2865-1988. The cooking stations at the center of the restaurant will entice you with their live demonstrations. The colorful desserts behind the glass counter are also a good bet. Steamed beef balls, har gow and shiu mai, cheung fun (rice noodle rolls) and pork dumplings are wheeled around in traditional trolleys for an authentic yum cha experience. Metropol is a great option for a casual Sunday dim sum.

95 4

280 2865-1988

13 1

2882-5056

63

MIJAS SPANISH RESTAURANT 1 102

555

iSquare

30

2487-3688

2899-0858

6

3552-3300

88-90

2581-9992

Peliku

MORTON’S OF CHICAGO 20

4

88 2732-2343

8

2521-3838

MAN WAH

100 W H E R E G U E ST B O OK


Advertorial

O

utback Steakhouse is an Australian themed steakhouse restaurant. Although beef and steak items make up a good portion of the menu, the concept offers a variety of chicken, ribs, seafood, and pasta dishes. The Company’s strategy is to differentiate its restaurants by emphasizing consistently highquality food and service, generous portions at moderate prices and a casual atmosphere suggestive of the Australian Outback. All dishes are freshly made, with only the finest ingredients and original recipes selected, from original appetizers such as the Bloomin’ Onion and Aussie Cheese Fries, to perfect combinations of Steak & Crab Leg Combo, Toowoomba Topped Sirloin, and all-time Outback favorites like Baby Back Ribs and Alice Spring Chicken, diners are guaranteed an enjoyable Outback experience.

Causeway Bay 2/F, JP Plaza, 22-36 Paterson St. Reservations: 2881 8012 Wanchai 1/F, De Fenwick, 8-12 Fenwick St. Reservations: 3101 0418 Whampoa Shop 3A, G/F, Site 4, Whampoa Garden, Hunghom Reservations: 2766 2823 Tsim Sha Tsui Shop 1, Level 2, 26 Nathan Rd. Reservations: 3741 1728

Tsim Sha Tsui East Shops 23-28, Upper Ground Floor, Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Rd Reservations: 2311 7800 Tsuen Wan Shops 3-5, Level 2, Discovery Park Shopping Centre, 398 Castle Peak Rd. Reservations: 2940 0682 Taikoo Shops G9-G10, G/F, Kornhill Plaza, 1 Kornhill Rd. Reservations: 2560 8246 Tuen Mun Shop 2016-2017, 2/F, Phase 1, Tuen Mun Town Plaza Reservations: 2426 3918


MORTON'S OF CHICAGO

MIJAS SPANISH RESTAURANT Shop 102, 1/F, Murray House, Stanley, 2899-0858. Located in historic Murray House, with a spacious verandah and lovely sea view, this place could coast along on its setting alone, but the service and food are a cut above most Stanley offerings. MING COURT 6/F, Langham Place Hotel, 555 Shanghai St., Mong Kok, 3552-3300. Ming Court is the sister restaurant of the famed T’ang Court and just as elegant—defined by antiques, gilded panels, elaborate Chinese designs and delicious cuisine. The menu is extensive, with Cantonese specialties such as abalone, lobster and pigeon, and prepared with a special hightemperature stir-frying technique that seals flavors into the dishes. Staffers are near clairvoyant and happy to recommend a wine or Chinese spirit to go with your meal.

102 W H E R E G U E ST B O OK

MORTON’S OF CHICAGO 4/F, Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Towers, 20 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2732-2343. This renovated steakhouse with contemporary interiors offers new signatures like a five-peppercorn rubbed strip steak and a USDA bone-in rib-eye. Seafood lovers also get to enjoy dishes like a Chilean sea bass fillet. MYUNG GA Shop 1, 13/F, World Trade Centre, 280 Gloucester Rd., Causeway Bay, 2882-5056. Mmm... barbecued beef short ribs. Korean restaurant Myung Ga serves up such delicious marinated meats, you almost don’t need to bother with the rest of the menu. But that would be a grievous oversight. No wonder this brightly lit venue draws so many Korean families.

18

4

2523-0648

1

7-8

2584-7722

OSTERIA 50

NOBU

2315-1010 2

18 2313-2323 Osteria

16-20

ON LOT 10 34

Alain Ducasse

B1

20 2155-9210

2526-6456



NANHAI NO. 1 30/F, iSquare, 63 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2487-3688. Nanhai No. 1 does classic Chinese fare with a slightly modern flair. Seafood takes center stage here, and the restaurant offers a wide array of freshly caught fish. Choose your catch and then tell the kitchen team how you’d like it prepared. Otherwise, put your trust in the restaurant’s recommendations and go for their signature juicy baked oysters in spicy Sichuan sauce or geoduck simmered in consommé. NHA TRANG 88-90 Wellington St., Central, 2581-9992. This northern Vietnamese franchise prides itself on serving traditional fare from Hanoi, insisting on authentic, imported ingredients including broken rice from the Mekong Delta, coffee beans from the Peliku highland and lotus tea from Dalat.

NICHOLINI’S 8/F, Conrad Hong Kong, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2521-3838. From the seared foie gras on polenta to the perfectly cooked squid ink pasta, the rare rack of lamb to the exquisite desserts, everything is rich, flavorful and innovative at Nicholini’s. NINGBO RESIDENTS’ ASSOCIATION 4/F, Yip Fung Building, 18 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2523-0648. This is an age-old, respected establishment, the kind that keeps your opened bottle of Remy Martin for your next visit. It’s a gathering spot for people from Ningbo, China, who came to Hong Kong generations ago. Don’t expect flashy décor, just whitewash and sturdy round tables. The food is simple and traditional—xiaolongbao dumplings and shengjian buns ooze

PETRUS 88 56

38-44 4 E

2820-8590

PIERRE

3102-2255

SABATINI RISTORANTE 5

25

51

69

3

2733-2000

Sabatini

2825-4001 Pierre Gagnaire

3

2525-0552

51

7

2838-8811

NANHAI NO. 1

104 W H E R E G U E ST B O OK


DINING & NIGHTLIFE

ONE HARBOUR ROAD

handmade goodness. It's technically members only, so ask your concierge. NOBU 2/F, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2313-2323. Mind-blowingly artistic in presentation, design and execution, this world-famous restaurant meets the hype: the best, freshest fish flown in by jet mere hours after it was caught, accented with just the right light touch of savory/sweet/ salty sauces and sides. And the restaurant is just beautiful, with ambient amber and rose lighting and floor-to-ceiling harbor views that bathe the room in sunshine by day and glowing city lights by night. The sushi is a must, as is the amazing cooked black cod. ON LOT 10 34 Gough St., Central, 2155-9210. It’s not often that you come across a quaint French bistro serving quality food at affordable prices. Here you can find delectable dishes like the homemade pâté provençale and deconstructed Caesar salad. Owner and chef David has worked in Alain Ducasse’s top kitchens

in America and Monaco, and gives his own interpretation of provincial French food without all the frills and frightening price tags. ONE HARBOUR ROAD 7-8/F, Grand Hyatt Hong Kong, 1 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2584-7722. Of all the fine Chinese restaurants in our many luxury hotels, this is one of the classiest. Tables are generously spaced over two floors—other diners seem miles away—and the downstairs area features a stone lily pond. The food is graceful and sumptuous, with a focus on luxury ingredients such as abalone. There is an extensive wine list specially selected to pair with Chinese flavors. OSTERIA Mezzanine, Holiday Inn Golden Mile Hong Kong, 50 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-1010. This classy eatery has become the canteen for Italian expats looking for a dose of authentic food from the homeland. The place is perpetually packed with regulars enjoying great home-style cooking. The pastas are cooked to al dente perfection, and the sumptuous risottos are a must-

6 5-6

29-39

2854-4557

2892-2888

SEVVA 10

25

2537-1388 1 W

1

3717-2848

W 64 2733-8754

SKY CRYSTAL 1 2673-3839

101 B2

Sha Tin18 18

4

3723-1234

101 Sky Crystal

SPASSO 68

WHERE G UEST B OOK 1 05


PETRUS

try. Osteria’s lunch buffet spreads are also good. PEKING GARDEN Shop B1, Alexandra House, 16-20 Chater Rd., Central, 2526-6456. This famous-with-tourists restaurant tucked into the basement of Alexandra House is known for its signature Peking duck and other Chinese delicacies. One of the servers will come up to your table as soon as you are seated to ask if you want the duck, as it takes 20 minutes to half an hour to prepare. The restaurant is also known for its Beggar’s chicken, which has to be ordered at least 2 days in advance. PETRUS 56/F, Island Shangri-La, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2820-8590. This place can best be equated with a fine wine: expensive but so pleasing to the palate that it’s worth the money. 106 W H E R E G U E ST B O OK

Ingredients are flown in from France, and the wine list thoroughly covers every major region. The décor is opulent and the view magnificent. Jacket required. PIERRE 25/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4001. Chef Pierre Gagnaire’s famously innovative dishes are on offer at this upscale two-Michelin-star diner at the Mandarin Oriental. Modern French is the name of the game, and the menu changes every season. PURE VEGGIE HOUSE 3/F, Coda Plaza, 51 Garden Rd., Central, 2525-0552. Although it has an altar room for a thousand-armed Guanyin, this Buddhist vegetarian place is far from monastic and the food is inspirational. One of the place’s highlights is a Fuyong-style

ST. GEORGE

SPICES 109 2292-2821 Spices

2 A Hullett House Heritage1881 1 3988-0220 Hullett House 4

63

SPOON BY ALAIN DUCASSE 18 2313-2323 Alain Ducasse

29 2643-6800 Sushi Yoshitake 8 6

8 1

2696-6760

2148-7773

1 2


DINING & NIGHTLIFE omelet, made not of eggs but gooey, creamy tofu skin, the sides pan-fried to crispy perfection. RAKUEN 4/F, Shop E, Ho Lee Commercial Building, 38-44 D’Aguilar St., Central, 3102-2255. This cozy little Okinawan digs with woodsy décor and an intimate izakaya atmosphere serves delectable sharing platters of deep-fried camembert, grilled ox tongue skewers, sticky tofu and other fusiony dishes. SABATINI RISTORANTE 3/F, The Royal Garden, 69 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2733-2000. Sabatini is all about old-school charm, with its amiable and well-trained staff, retro tableside service and endearing live band. The homey appeal makes for a great dining experience—and the sweet treats-filled dessert trolley sure helps that cause. SAN XI LOU 7/F, Coda Plaza, 51 Garden Rd., Mid-Levels, 2838-8811. A good hotpot is all about a solid broth, fresh ingredients and great sauces, and San Xi Lou has all of these in spades. Go for a fiery Sichuan soup, which comes filled with mouthnumbing peppercorns and fat, angry red chilies, or the milder “miraculous chicken” broth. SEVENTH SON 5-6/F, Kwan Chart Tower, 6 Tonnochy Rd., Wan Chai, 2892-2888. Seventh Son offers classic Cantonese cuisine in a fresh contemporary setting spanning over two levels. A great choice for carnivores, with a huge selection of seafood as well as signatures like roast suckling pig and crispy chicken. SEVVA 25/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2537-1388. Who wouldn’t want to lie back comfortably on lush deck furniture atop a fabulous wraparound balcony? Savor delicate wontons, a giant, crisp dosa or a silky soft angel food cake as jazz wafts through the air.

SHANG PALACE LG/F, Kowloon Shangri-La, 64 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2733-8754. The authentic yet ever-innovative Cantonese cuisine at Shang Palace doesn’t lose out to the beautiful décor, and the carefully crafted dishes have garnered Shang Palace a well-deserved two-Michelin-star rating. SHA TIN 18 4/F, Hyatt Regency, 18 Chak Cheung St., Sha Tin, 3723-1234. The hotel’s flagship Chinese restaurant has a loyal following among the New Territories crowd for its outstanding Cantonese and northern Chinese cuisine. Watch the chefs work culinary magic in the theater kitchens while you enjoy succulent pork ribs with preserved yellow bean paste, hand-pulled noodles or a decadent Peking duck. SHEUNG HING CHIU CHOW RESTAURANT G/F, 29-39 Queen’s Rd. West, Sheung Wan, 2854-4557. Part of a series of restaurants known locally as “Soya Goose Row,” this eatery is perhaps the most famous of them all. The clientele ranges from local celebrities—as the numerous pictures on the wall proudly demonstrate—to firsttimers looking bewildered that this tiny, noisy room is where you’ll find some of the best Chiu Chow food in town. Highlights are the lemon duck soup, baby oyster omelet and the classic Chiu Chow congee served with fish, pork and parsley.

8

1

2132-7898

121

2849-1000

THE PRESS ROOM 5

1

2825-4009

108 The Press Room

2525-3444

100

THE PRINCIPAL 323

2

2815-2311

9 2563-3444 The Principal 4,300 The Principal Jonay Armas Canary Islands

5

1 Uwe Opocensky

2825-4014

THE VERANDAH 109 2292-2822 The Verandah

El Bulli

12

SING YIN 1/F, W Hotel, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 3717-2848. This stylishly furnished Cantonese restaurant serves dim sum and classic Chinese specialties at the equally stylish W Hotel. Dumplings and other delicacies are taken to whole new levels. The décor is a modern take on old-style Hong Kong. SKY CRYSTAL Shop B2, 101/F, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2673-3839. Serving xiaolongbao with Kurobuta pork, braised cabbage with Jinhua ham, double-boiled abalone soup, wine-

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SPASSO

saturated pigeon and other Chinese delicacies 101 floors above ground, Sky Crystal is perfect for a classy Kowloonside meal. SPASSO G/F, Empire Centre, 68 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2730-8027 Enjoy a breezy lunch with the family at this Italian resto facing the harbor. Choose from pizzas and pastas to lamb chops and grilled seafood. SPICES G/F, The Repulse Bay, 109 Repulse Bay Rd., Repulse Bay, 2292-2821. Spices has an enviable location spilling out onto the grassy terrace of The 108 W H E R E G U E ST B O OK

Repulse Bay (a high-end apartment complex) shopping arcade, with teak tables and umbrellas for a comfortable outdoor meal. Their menu of myriad Asian dishes is worth checking out, but you will likely come back just because it’s such a fine place to spend the day. SPOON BY ALAIN DUCASSE InterContinental HongKong, 18 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2313-2323. This restaurant by celebrity chef Alain Ducasse is gorgeous, with a spectacular view. The menu offers more innovative takes on classic French cuisine. The food is skillfully prepared, and the menu is seasonal.

1 12A

TOKIO JOE

8 2332-3078

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2525-1889

TOSCA 1 1

102 102

2263-2270

2263-2270


DINING & NIGHTLIFE SPRING MOON 1/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2696-6760. It’s traditional Cantonese fine dining with impeccable service. Notable dim sum items include deep-fried custard buns and taro puffs, as well as deliciously fatty char siu (barbecued pork). Also check out Spring Moon’s amazing selection of vintage and premium Chinese teas. ST. GEORGE 1/F, Hullett House, 1881 Heritage, 2A Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3988-0220. Hullett House’s fine-dining venture is a modern interpretation of old-school grandeur, with dark wooden beams running along the high ceiling and sleek Victorian-style chairs neatly arranged in the restaurant’s four dining rooms. Food-wise, try the signature 63-degree eggs served with crabmeat velouté, sweet potato purée and wild mushrooms. Also worth checking out is the pan-fried foie gras. SUSHI SHIKON The Mercer Hotel, 29 Jervois St., Sheung Wan, 2643-6800. Previously known as Sushi Yoshitake, this exclusive three-Michelin-star restaurant seats eight guests (not including a private dining room seating six) per night. The produce is flown in from Tsukiji market daily, then turned into multi-course tastings. TAI WING WAH VILLAGE CUISINE Shop 2, 1/F, Chevalier Commercial Centre, 8 Wang Hoi Rd., Kowloon Bay, 2148-7773. Traditional Hong Kong cuisine consists of huge stir-fry dishes made of the freshest ingredients. Enter Tai Wing Wah. Run by local food personality Hugo Leung, it serves ultra-traditional walled village dishes, most of which have disappeared from local menus. Our favorites are the steamed shredded taro with pork, and steamed egg with fish intestines in a clay pot. Portions are big, so remember to bring a friend. T’ANG COURT 1/F, Langham Hotel, 8 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2132-7898. This is a gem, serving some of the city’s finest Cantonese cuisine in imperial

WHISK

surroundings. Local media and foodies fall over themselves awarding accolades to the food. Just order the shredded crab to find out why: perfectly cracked, perfectly seasoned and cooking time judged to the millisecond. THE CHINNERY 1/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4009. The Chinnery’s a bastion of the best of Britishness: we’re talking cozy armchairs, a clubby atmosphere, 100 single malt whiskies to choose from and a menu featuring steak and kidney pie, bangers and mash and apple crumble. The burgers are enormous and mouthwatering. THE GRAND STAGE 2/F, Western Market, 323 Des Voeux Rd. Central, Sheung Wan, 2815-2311. Located atop the colonial-era Western Market, this is a cavernous restaurant with a massive chandelier that serves excellent dim sum.

15-19

2525-6338 The Mira 5 Whisk

118-130 2315-5999

Vibes

414-424 421-425

1-2 2573-7698 2834-6818

WOOLOOMOOLOO PRIME 100 The ONE 21 2870-0087 Wooloomooloo 200

VIEW 62 183

62

10

20

2574-6262 Ferran Adria protégé Paco Roncero 83 3

2575-6966

THE KRUG ROOM 1/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4014. Chef de cuisine Uwe Opocensky trained at the three-Michelin-star restaurant El Bulli. The Krug Room offers a unique dining experience based around sampling different Krug champagne vintages. Tasting menus are available, along with a selection of a la carte dishes. The restaurant accommodates only 12 guests at a time to ensure an intimate dining experience. THE PEAK LOOKOUT 121 Peak Rd., The Peak, 2849-1000. Situated in a historic colonial building (a former sedan-chair shed) atop The Peak, this is true destination dining. Depending on the weather, book a table on the terrace or next to the open fireplace. Views are limited but the atmosphere is fabulous. International menu. THE PRESS ROOM 108 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2525-3444. The Press Room serves up both a croque monsieur and Iranian caviar with the same grace and panache. This is a good-

SUSHI SHIKON

WHERE G UEST B OOK 1 09


looking restaurant, with a New York vibe, huge windows, open kitchen, oyster bar and wine nook. THE PRINCIPAL 9 Star St., Wan Chai, 2563-3444. The Principal is all about understatement and a neutral color palette—well, that, and space. This establishment is 4,300 square feet with high ceilings, but there’s nothing overwhelming about it. The Principal’s head chef Jonay Armas serves dishes from his childhood home in the Canary Islands. THE VERANDAH The Repulse Bay, 109 Repulse Bay Rd., Repulse Bay, 2292-2822. The Verandah’s colonial-style dining space is suitably grand. It’s a wonderful venue for weekend lunches, especially on its outdoor terrace. The Sunday brunch buffet is one of the best in town: crunchy Caesar salads and fresh seafood vie for attention with Alaskan lobster, marinated scallops and milk-fed lamb. TIM HO WAN Shop 12A,1/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2332-3078. If you’re looking for some Michelinstarred dim sum, just head over to IFC Mall and look for the place with the giant line of people waiting outside. Opened by three-Michelin-starred Lung King Heen’s former dim sum chef, "Pui Gor", it’s not hard to see why this restaurant has generated so much buzz in the dining circuit. Must-try items include the baked barbecue pork buns and steamed shrimp rice rolls, both of which will leave your stomach and your wallet happy. TIN LUNG HEEN 102/F, Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2263-2270. Hong Kong has some of the best city views in the world, and one prime spot to take them in is from the top of the tallest building in the city. At the Ritz’s posh Chinese restaurant Tin Lung Heen, though, the only thing that could possibly distract you from a view this good is the food. Unsurprisingly, given the hotel’s pedigree, chefs here dish up a refined Cantonese feast fit for a king. 110 W H E R E G U E ST B O OK

TOKIO JOE G/F, 16 Lan Kwai Fong, Central, 2525-1889. Nestle into this charming, quiet, darkwood restaurant for a range of snacks, from a refillable bowl of edamame to freshly chilled tomatoes drizzled with aromatic fried garlic in soy sauce, topped with a sprinkling of salt. TOSCA 102/F, Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2263-2270. Southern Italian cuisine at its finest. This stylishly dapper, open-kitchen eatery is well in keeping with Ritz-Carlton’s namesake luxury. Diners be warned: there’s a dress code. TSUI WAH RESTAURANT G/F, 15-19 Wellington St., Central, 2525-6338. One of Hong Kong’s best and busiest quick-service restaurants, Tsui Wah offers good, innovative food at reasonable prices and regularly updates its menu. Its more successful culinary creations include fish-essence soup and pork cartilage with noodles—succulent, but not for the faint of heart. UNDER BRIDGE SPICY CRAB Shop 1-2, G/F, 414-424 Jaffe Rd., Wan Chai, 2573-7698; 421-425 Lockhart Rd., Wan Chai, 2834-6818. The Under Bridge Spicy Crab restaurants are all within walking distance of each other, varying from a hole-in-the-wall to a Zen-modern interior. But they all serve typhoon-shelter crabs—large, sweet crustaceans topped with mounds of fried garlic and chili.

WHISK

1 1 10

2527-8899

2

281 2837-6790

5

VIEW 62 62/F, Hopewell Centre, 183 Queen’s Rd. Central, Wan Chai, 2574-6262. This revolving restaurant at the top of Hopewell Centre has Ferran Adriaprotégé Paco Roncero at the helm. Modern Spanish cuisine—which involves things coming out of tubes and liquid nitrogenized—is offered, as is an impressive selection of teas at the end of the meal.

18 2313-2323

ZUMA 15 5-6 Zuma

3 6

2376-3322

3657-6388


DINING & NIGHTLIFE

XI YAN PRIVATE DINING

WHISK 5/F, The Mira, 118-130 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-5999. Whisk is sophistication with a hip edge. The restaurant is connected to a beautiful outdoor garden roof terrace, called Vibes, where guest DJs spin tunes amid comfy, canopied tables and lush greenery. It’s all about contempo-European cuisine made with the freshest seasonal ingredients, and the menu changes regularly. WOOLOOMOOLOO PRIME 21/F, The One, 100 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2870-0087. This elegant Wooloomooloo outpost is a must for serious steak lovers. Choose from 200-day grain-fed Australian steaks as well as other selected cuts from the US, ranging from 10-ounce to hearty 20-ounce cuts, all while enjoying a perfectly paired glass of red from the decadent wine rack.

XI YAN PRIVATE DINING RESTAURANT 3/F, 83 Wan Chai Rd., Wan Chai, 2575-6966. Xi Yan is a private kitchen that blends traditional Chinese cuisine with pan-Asian flavors. After the wild success of this restaurant, proprietor celebrity chef Jacky Yu replicated his winning formula with branches around town—but come here for the original experience.

YAN TOH HEEN LG/F, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2313-2323. Yan Toh Heen is one of those special places you reserve for your nearest and dearest. Expect to be treated like a VIP by the five-star staff. As for the food? Everything is delicious—just a spoonful of the fish maw with sea whelk and Chinese cabbage with Yunnan ham and mushrooms warrants a visit.

XIAO NAN GUO AT ONE PEKING 10/F, One Peking, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2527-8899. Promising a soothing and spectacular Chinese dining experience, enjoy signature Shanghainese dishes such as drunken chicken in Shaoxing wine, steamed pork and soup dumplings and pan-fried crispy pork soup buns at Shanghai Min.

YE SHANGHAI 6/F, Marco Polo Hongkong Hotel, 3 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2376-3322. There are two branches of Ye Shanghai, but if we had to choose we’d pick the Kowloon branch for its sprawling, fabulous nouveau Chinois décor. As for the food, it’s good, upscale Shanghainese cuisine served in shareable portions. Go for dishes such as xiaolongbao, river

shrimps and the camphor-smoked duck with pancakes. YEE TUNG HEEN 2/F, The Excelsior Hotel, 281 Gloucester Rd., Causeway Bay, 2837-6790. This authentic restaurant brings a new standard to Cantonese fine dining to Hong Kong and has won many accolades over the years for its sophisticated techniques and carefully crafted foods. ZUMA 5-6/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3657-6388. This is one good-looking restaurant, split over two floors and linked by a sumptuous curving staircase. It’s the Hong Kong branch of London’s famous Japanese restaurant, offering a sophisticated twist on the traditional izakaya. WHERE G UEST B OOK 1 1 1


BOUJIS

BARS 121BC 42-44 Peel St., Central, 2395-0200. Enjoy top-of-the-range wines sourced from Italy paired with a rustic Italian menu, at 121BC. This casual wine bar is an Australian import, straight from Sydney. AQUA SPIRIT 29-30/F, One Peking, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3427-2288. This bar redefines the notion of having a sophisticated drink with friends. Quoted as one of the best bars in Hong Kong, Aqua has stunning harbor and city views.

112 W H E R E G U E ST B O OK

BABY BUDDHA 18 Wo On Lane, Central, 2167-7244. This hidden bar, located off of busy D’Aguilar Street on Wo On Lane and decorated with pretty red fairy lights, offers a great alternative to the loud music and large crowds. Join the crowds of people chatting with drinks outside in the large courtyard. BACKSTAGE LIVE 1/F, Somptueux Central, 52-54 Wellington St., Central, 2167-8985. This live music venue in the middle of Central has a range of interesting cocktails, all named after the songs of the bands that play there.

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BARS BLCKBRD 6/F, 8 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, 2545-8555. This chilled-out spot has an official “no loud music” policy, making it the perfect place for a few low-key drinks with friends. Located on the sixth floor, Blckbrd is cut off from the gaggles of people on the street, but the outdoor terrace offers a serene place to watch the world go by. BOUJIS 37 Pottinger St., Central, 2324-0200. Taking cue from its highly successful and celeb-endorsed model in London, Boujis establishes an Asian branch in Hong Kong. The moody space comes alive at night with house, electro and similarly buzzing sounds. BUDDHA LOUNGE L/G, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2526-2562. A minimalist, intimate setting is the backdrop for a pretty sexy mix of young and mature patrons with a soft spot for lounge-y, chillout beats. BUTLER 5/F, Mody House, 30 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2724-3828. Masayuki Uchida, the half-Cantonese, half-Japanese owner of this posh, allwooden Japanese bar, allegedly knows 2,000 cocktail recipes by heart. This nightspot is exclusive, fitting only 18 people and allowing groups with a maximum of five people. CENTRAL WINE CLUB 3/F, Sea Bird House, 22-28 Wyndham St., 2147-3448. This exclusive wine club on Wyndham Street has the connoisseur in mind. Luxe, sleek, and modern-baroque surrounds complement slow jazz and contemporary tunes. COMMON ROOM 1/F, Wo On Building, 8-13 Wo On Lane, Central, 2525-3599. Common Room is a spacious gastropub that serves international tapas dishes and mixologist-crafted cocktails right off LKF’s main drag.

DUSK TILL DAWN 76 Jaffe Rd., Wan Chai, 2528-4689. Some believe the stage at Dusk till Dawn plays host to the best live cover bands our city has to offer. A solid place to fall into at the end of a messy night in Wan Chai. THE FLYING WINEMAKER 18/F, The Hennessy, 256 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai, 2522-2187. The relocated Flying Winemaker is a cool, hip hangout for wine aficionados and newbies alike. Customers can taste different types of wine by the glass (in plastic cups—no pretentiousness here) and then buy the bottles. HAM & SHERRY G/F, 1-7 Ship St., Wan Chai, 2555-0628. Patterned floor-to-ceiling Azulejo tiles in sharp blue and white are the first things that catch your eye at this modestly sized venue. In case it’s not obvious, sherry is the drink of choice here. HAVANA BAR 4/F, The Plaza, 21 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2851-4880. This Cuban-themed bar on D’Aguilar Street serves up Caribbean classics like daiquiris, mojitos and drinks with all different sorts of rum. Awesome terrace available for some serious outdoor chilling. INSENSES LG/F, 13 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, 2815-0868. This underground mini club has an incredibly friendly vibe, playing everything from indie music to drum 'n' bass to techno. Comes with outdoor patio. INSOMNIA LG/F, 38-44 D'Aguilar St., Central, 2525-0957. If there’s nothing you love better than moshing to “Living on a Prayer” in front of a long-haired cover band at three in the morning, Insomnia is the place to go. This long-standing Hong Kong establishment naturally blasts awesome covers of rock classics right into the wee hours.

BUDDHA LOUNGE

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BUTLER 30 Mody House 5 2724-3828 Masayuki Uchida

JAA BAR 1

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L’ÉTAGE 525 22 2522-5300

THE FLYING WINEMAKER

Katsuhisa Hirakawa

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JAA BAR 1 Pak Tsz Lane, Central, 9099-2027. With modern art lining the walls and cozy, classy couches, Jaa Bar incorporates comfort and charm for a truly exclusive experience. LION ROCK 3/F, Royal Plaza Hotel, 193 Prince Edward Rd. West, Mong Kok, 2622-6167. Lion Rock is the place to unwind and relax while sampling one of the bar’s signature cocktails. Enjoy the awesome view at their weekly wine and whisky tastings, and recharge with their sushi and all-day dining services. THE LAWN 6/F, The Upper House, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 3968-1106. This outdoor garden illuminated entirely by a few candles is a genuine urban oasis with a serene, intimate vibe. Melt away the stresses of work while lounging atop the tastefully arranged beanbags and comfortable couches. L’ÉTAGE 22/F, Macau Yat Yuen Centre, 525 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2522-5300. This bar has the feel of a true gentlemen’s club, a place to sit back and relax with a traditionally made cocktail in hand. It’s worth coming back just to watch head bartender Katsuhisa Hirakawa handcarve spheres of ice for whisky. MAGNUM 3-4/F, Silver Fortune Plaza, 1 Wellington St., Central, 2116-1602. A stomping group for celebrities that is nominally members only, it can be difficult to get into this centrally located club unless you’re a member. ORIGIN G/F, 48 Wyndham St., Central, 2668-5583. The name is a bit of a giveaway—gin is high up on the menu here. With famed mixologist Antonio Lai at the helm, Origin serves up a delectable selection of every single kind of gin you can think of— and then a few more for good measure. 114 W H E R E G U E ST B O OK

OZONE 118/F, Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2263-2263. Located 118 floors above the ground, this bar boasts the title of the highest bar in Hong Kong. With an extensive— and expensive—menu of bubbly bottles and cocktails, this bar is a must-see, mainly because of its skyhigh, drop-dead gorgeous lookout onto Victoria Harbour.

PROPAGANDA 1

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PROPAGANDA LG/F, 1 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2868-1316. Possibly the most famous gay bar in Hong Kong, this bar offers 40 percent off all standard drinks during happy hour on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays from 10pm to 1:30am. QUINARY 56-58 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-3223. This chic hangout off of Hollywood Road serves some awesome cocktails by molecular mixologist Antonio Lai. The Earl Grey Caviar Martini and the Oolong Tea Collins are both highly recommended.

2656-9338

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RAYNE 43-55

PLAY 1/F, On Hing Building, 1 On Hing Terrace, Central, 2525-1318. Head to the lounge room, equipped with two standard pool tables, for happy hour drink specials and exceedingly tasty bar snacks with friends, or head to the dance floor and shake your body to the beats.

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38-44 4C 2536-4355

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2868-2892 IPAs

Que Vinh Dang

RAYNE Shop F, G/F, Yu Yuet Lai Building, 43-55 Wyndham St., Central, 2840-1955. With a floor plan designed for mingling and a chic cosmopolitan décor, Rayne is the ideal hangout for the thirtysomething Wyndham crowd looking for a post-work hot spot. ROCKABILLY 12 Lan Kwai Fong, Central, 2869-0099. Head up LKF and you’ll be sure to catch Rockabilly’s loud, red neon logo and cheeky signs. Inspired by

HAM & SHERRY


BARS tattoo parlors and vintage car repair shops, the 1950s Americana joint has two floors: a narrow ground floor with a bar, and a roomier upstairs complete with a Juliet balcony that’s great for late-night people-watching. SAKE BAR GINN 4C, Ho Lee Commercial Building, 38-44 D'Aguilar St., Central, 2536-4355. Certified sake sommelier/instructor Ayuchi Momose opened up an upperfloor bar that’s dedicated to premium sakes. In addition to serving 100 types of sake and Japanese tapasstyle dishes, she also imports some special sakes by microbreweries that are not yet well known outside of Japan. SHOW CLUB G-1/F, 29 Wyndham St., Central, 2656-9338. Expect the kind of bottle-poppin’, bootydroppin’ action normally seen in rap videos come to life at this late-night club on the corner of Wyndham, right in the center of the action. STOCKTON 1/F, 32 Wyndham St., Central, 2565-5268. Think dapper blokes chewing on pipes and 1920s-inspired cut crystal champagne glasses at this throwback English establishment. Located on the corner of Glenealy and Wyndham, look for a dark little corridor— there are no signs to help you out. Remember to book ahead or risk being turned away! SUGAR 32/F, East Hotel, 29 Tai Koo Shing Rd., Quarry Bay, 3968-3738. Located on the 32nd floor, with an outdoor deck area some 300 feet above Victoria Harbour, this is the perfect place for patrons to soak up the stunning skyline and sea views Hong Kong has to offer. TAPAGRIA 18/F, The One, 100 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2147-0111. If you’re looking for a view, tapas and sangria, look no further than Tapagria,

TAPAGRIA

situated on the high floors of The One shopping mall. Enjoy one of their 65 sangria concoctions alongside dishes like paella and croquettes. THE TIPPING POINT BREWING CO. 79 Wyndham St., Central, 2868-2892. This craft beer hangout serves IPAs, stouts and wheat beers instead of standard commercial varieties. The bar is the brainchild of chef and restaurateur Que Vinh Dang. TOKORO WHISKEY BAR AND RESTAURANT 3/F, Langham Place Hotel, 555 Shanghai St., Mong Kok, 3552-3330. This Japanese-style bar serves a mean Mt. Fuji sake cocktail. It’s sure to perk up even the most exhausted, sweatdrenched Mong Kok shopper. TONIC 43-55 Wyndham St., Central, 2537-8010. This swanky, upscale bar is guaranteed to be packed on weekends with young and old suits as well as the flitterati.

THE TONNO 5 Tonnochy Rd., Wan Chai, 3125-3888. This multi-faceted complex features a bar, clubbing zone, restaurant, live music lounge, VIP party enclaves and karaoke rooms—in short, it takes “all-around entertainment” to a whole new level. THE WANCH 54 Jaffe Rd., Wan Chai, 2861-1621. Come enjoy live music by locally cultivated cover bands and talented musicians at age-old institution, The Wanch. It can get quite rowdy at this grungy, intimate space—but that’s what’s so awesome about it. Pub snacks are free from Tuesday to Saturday 6pm to 7:30pm. VOLUME: H.E.A.T. 83-85 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2857-7683. This chill tapas bar serves some of the cheapest drinks in our metropolis to a mostly gay clientele—it’s two for one on most drinks during happy hour (noon-9pm).

TOKORO 555

3 3552-3330. M t .F u j i

TONIC 43-55

2537-8010

THE TONNO 5

3125-3888 OK

THE WANCH 54 The Wanch

2861-1621

6

7

30

VOLUME H. E. A. T. 83-85

2857-7683 5

8 9 WHERE G UEST B OOK 1 1 5


Leisure

SO WHAT DO YOU FEEL LIKE DOING TODAY? THEME PARKS, TOURS, FESTIVALS, MARKETS, ISLANDS, HISTORIC MONUMENTS: IT'S ALL HERE.

ATTRACTIONS AVENUE OF STARS Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront, www.avenueofstars.com. Fans of Hong Kong movies will find their heroes’ hand and footprints permanently etched in concrete along the Avenue of the Stars, as well as a statue of Bruce Lee. Go at 8pm for the nightly music-and-laser extravaganza called the “Symphony of Lights.” Music only plays over the loudspeakers here, although the harborfront light display can be seen from around the city. BIG BUDDHA Ngong Ping Village, Lantau Island. Situated beside Po Lin Monastery on Lantau Island is the Big Buddha—the largest seated outdoor bronze Buddha in the world. The statue is set amid mountains and hiking trails, and is most impressive seen while in the cable car from Tung Chung. Nearby is “The Wisdom Path,” lined with wood carvings featuring the calligraphy from an important text for Confucians, Buddhists and Taoists. The vegetarian restaurant within the monastery is the best option if you’re famished.

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LEISURE

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AVENUE OF STARS

CENTRAL SKYLINE Garden Road, Central; Queen’s Road Central and Finance Street, Central. The Bank of China Tower, Cheung Kong Center, HSBC headquarters, the Old Supreme Court Building and Two IFC dominate the heart of Central—all are iconic in their own way. The tallest is Two IFC (which stands atop the IFC mall), the shiniest is the Cheung Kong Center, the oldest is the Old Supreme Court building (also known as the Legco Building for being the former home of the Legislative Council), and the most avant-garde is still, arguably, Norman Foster’s “inside-out” HSBC building. But the most user-friendly is the Bank of China Tower. Built by American-Chinese architect I.M. Pei, who was apparently inspired by a stalk of bamboo, this iconic building has an observation deck on the 43rd floor, which is free and open to the public. 118 W H E R E G U E ST B O OK

CHI LIN NUNNERY 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill, 2354-1888. An oasis of peace in the heart of Kowloon, this graceful, wooden Buddhist nunnery is the largest building in the world to be constructed using no nails—only wooden dowels and brackets. It’s a 33,000-squaremeter complex whose architectural style dates back to the Tang Dynasty, although the buildings themselves were completed in 1998. It’s centered on a courtyard filled with lotus ponds, and a stroll through the gardens makes for a bucolic escape. Vegetarian food is available in a quaint teahouse. HORSE RACING Sha Tin and Happy Valley Racecourses, www.hkjc.com. Join the screaming hordes at Happy Valley and Sha Tin racecourses for a few adrenalin-fueled hours. Mingle with

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the masses in the stands, or opt for the more refined atmosphere in the boxes. The season runs September to midJune, with about 700 races a year held an average of twice a week. The Hong Kong Jockey Club is non-profit-making, donating over HK$1 billion a year to local charities. HONG KONG DISNEYLAND Lantau Island, 1-830-830, park.hongkongdisneyland.com. Take a trip back to the 1900s on Main Street, catch a train to Fantasyland, float down the Rivers of Adventure, catch a show or blast through outer space in Tomorrowland. When you’re done charting your exotic surroundings take a moment to dine, shop or cavort with the various Disney characters who roam the park. The nightly fireworks are a mustsee. It’s easy to get to via MTR or bus.

Locals burn paper offerings to their ancestors in the huge urns outside; pick up some Bank of Hell money or even a paper Mercedes from shops nearby.

128 P101 2849-6966 www.madametussauds.com hongkong

NGONG PING 360 Lantau Island, 3666-0606, www.np360.com.hk. This cultural-themed village features dining, retail and entertainment attractions such as Walking with Buddha, Monkey’s Tale Theatre and the Ngong Ping Garden Restaurant. The cable car offers panoramic views as it passes over North Lantau Country Park to the Big Buddha.

LAN KWAI FONG Lan Kwai Fong, D’Aguilar Street and Wyndham Street, Central. Thankfully closed to cars most of the time, these thoroughfares are jampacked full of bars and nightclubs, with revelers spilling out into the streets at all hours. Attracting yuppies and visitors like moths to a flame, a good night out in Lan Kwai Fong is almost guaranteed.

NOONDAY GUN Causeway Bay Typhoon Shelter, Gloucester Road, Causeway Bay, 2508-1234. Immortalized by Noel Coward in his song “Mad Dogs and Englishmen,” the Noonday Gun has been fired at midday since the founding days of the colony. It belongs to local trading corporation Jardine Matheson, which was ordered to fire a daily time signal by the Royal Navy as a penalty for workers firing a salute (usually reserved for government officials) to the head of the company. Catch it daily on the Causeway Bay waterfront, opposite The Excelsior Hotel.

MADAME TUSSAUDS Shop P101, The Peak Tower, 128 Peak Rd., The Peak, 2849-6966, www.madametussauds.com/hongkong. The local branch of the world-famous Madame Tussauds wax museum encourages visitors to touch and pose with the figures. Local celebrities include Jackie Chan, Andy Lau and Michelle Yeoh. Also, where else in the Fragrant Harbor can you pose with Lady Gaga, Barack Obama and Yao Ming?

OCEAN PARK Ocean Park Drive, Aberdeen, 3923-2323, www.oceanpark.com.hk. Get up close and personal with a dolphin or a panda, walk through a shark tank, dive into a coral reef or whirl upside down on a roller coaster. Located near Aberdeen, Ocean Park manages to amuse and educate with its marine and bird life exhibits, giant panda enclosure, wild headland rides, and a cable car trip between the park’s two parts.

MAN MO TEMPLE Corner of Ladder Street and Hollywood Road, Central. This atmospheric temple must be one of the most photographed in Hong Kong. Great incense spirals dangle from the rafters, filling the roof space with aromatic smoke and lending a deep patina to the statues of gods Man Cheong (god of literature) and Kuan Ti (god of martial arts, or Mo) on the altars.

PEAK TRAM St. Joseph’s Building, Garden Road, Central, 2522-0922, www.thepeak.com.hk. There was a time when the best way up the Peak was by sedan chair—a grueling experience, particularly for the bearers. So the arrival of the Peak Tram was a blessing, one for which we are still thankful. The little funicular railway is one of the best trips in town, panting

2508-1234 f

Lady Gaga

3923-2323 www.oceanpark.com.hk

360 3666-0606 www.np360.com.hk

2522-0922 www.thepeak.com.hk

DISNEYLAND


up Hong Kong Island’s tallest mountain at a seemingly impossible angle that enchants all aboard. Sit on the right for the best views. SKY100 100/F, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2613-3888, www.sky100.com.hk. This observation deck is on the 100th floor of the city’s tallest building, the International Commerce Center. Besides 360-degree views of the city, Sky100 also has day and night view telescopes, a digital photo booth and an exhibition about Hong Kong heritage. STANLEY Stanley Beach Road, Hong Kong Island. The seaside township of Stanley has a market, shops, restaurants and bars that line a bay on one side and a beach on the other. It’s the perfect place to take a walk along the waterfront, chill at an alfresco resto and pick up some souvenirs. STAR FERRY Central Pier 7, 2367-7065, www.starferry.com.hk. No trip to Hong Kong is complete without a ride on the Star Ferry, which has been taking commuters between Hong Kong Island and Kowloon for over a century. For just a few dollars, you can enjoy Hong Kong’s famous skyline from the best seats in the house. TAI O Lantau Island. It would be wishful thinking to describe this fishing village as a “Venice of the East,” but there’s no doubting the charm of its maze of stilt houses built over a creek on the northwestern coast of Lantau Island. It’s a fascinating slice of old Hong Kong, with dried fish stalls, trays of smelly shrimp paste, a picturesque Tin Hau Temple at the end of a causeway and a couple of interesting little museums. A boutique hotel and restaurant add a touch of colonial elegance to the traditional town. TEN THOUSAND BUDDHAS MONASTERY Sha Tin MTR Station, Exit B, 2691-1067, www.10kbuddhas.org. 120 W H E R E G U E ST B O OK

STAR FERRY

One of the most celebrated monasteries in Hong Kong, the Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery actually has more than 12,800 Buddhas stored in five temples, four pavilions and a nine-story pagoda. The one that you’re likely to remember best is the mummified Buddhist monk, who sits in splendor, coated in gold leaf, inside a glass case. Light meals are served at the on-site vegetarian restaurant. THE BLUE HOUSE 72-74A Stone Nullah Lane, Wan Chai, 2835-4376. This colorful remnant of old Hong Kong is a pre-war tong lau, or tenement building, that’s been earmarked by the housing authority for preservation. Tong laus were the typical style of local residential and commercial buildings in the 20s and 30s. THE PEAK Central MTR, Exit J2, www.thepeak.com.hk. Standing at around 550 meters above sea level, the Peak was once the exclusive domain of high-ranking colonial officers. On a clear night, it offers quite possibly the best view of Hong Kong that you

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MAKE A

GREAT CUT

AMAZING WITHCOLOR HONG KONG LKF G/F, 15 Wyndham Street T+852 2801 7870

SOHO UG/F, 3-5 Old Bailey Street T+852 2533 3833

TONI&GUY HONG KONG

www.toniandguy.com.hk


could find anywhere. The tram runs from 7am to midnight daily, or take Bus 15 from Central. WONG TAI SIN TEMPLE Lung Cheung Road, Wong Tai Sin, Kowloon, 2327-8141, www.siksikyuen.org.hk. Named after the deity Wong Tai Sin, this Taoist temple completed its restoration in 1973 and is a popular shrine for local pilgrims who want to glimpse their future via a Chinese practice called kau cim.

FESTIVALS

Hong Kong celebrates a host of traditional Chinese festivals, all held according to the lunar calendar. Dates change every year. Visit www.discoverhongkong.com for details. Here are four not to be missed. CHEUNG CHAU BUN FESTIVAL Held over four days each May on Cheung Chau island, the Bun Festival is a hot, colorful, noisy affair designed to placate the spirits of those killed by a local bad boy, the 19th-century pirate Cheung Potsai. It involves an amazing procession of small children in traditional dress balanced on piles of teacups, swords and other improbable items. The highlight used to be a scramble up bamboo towers by locals to collect lucky buns—the higher the bun, the luckier it was. Today, it’s a calmer event involving safety ropes and experienced climbers.

CHINESE NEW YEAR & NATIONAL DAY FIREWORKS A half-hour fireworks show lights up the harbor at 8pm on Lunar New Year (dates vary; usually February) and China’s National Day (October 1) in one of the most spectacular sights in Hong Kong. The fireworks are launched from three barges located at strategic intervals along the harbor so they can been seen from all over Hong Kong Island and Kowloon, although the most popular viewing spot is the Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront. DRAGON BOAT RACES Local teams practice for months before the fast and furious races held each June at beaches and waterfronts across the territory. Teams of rowers compete in brightly decorated boats, each with a dragon’s head and a drummer pounding out the rhythm. The most popular spots to catch the action are Stanley Main Beach, Aberdeen, Chai Wan, Sha Tin, Tai Po, Sai Kung and Mui Wo. MID-AUTUMN FESTIVAL Surely the prettiest of all the annual festivals, the Moon Festival (as it’s also known) is a peaceful event usually held in September that involves getting together with friends and family in the great outdoors to watch the full moon rise. Lanterns hang from trees or stakes while families picnic on mooncakes (lotus-paste cakes with cooked egg yolks in the middle). Parks, beaches,

DRAGON BOAT RACES

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LADIES' MARKET

mountaintops and just about every open space in Hong Kong becomes fairylands of lanterns, both traditional and modern. Try Kowloon Park in Tsim Sha Tsui or Victoria Park in Causeway Bay; the latter is also located near the site of the beautiful Tai Hang Fire Dragon dance.

MARKETS BIRD GARDEN Yuen Po Street, Prince Edward. Open daily 7am-8pm. Replacing the hectic, narrow alleyway of the old bird market, the modern one is a more sedate affair, with about 70 stalls surrounding a series of courtyards where bird owners still “walk” their caged pets. Birds are bought and sold here, including Australian galahs, starlings from East Africa, mynahs, parakeets, cockatiels and assorted colorful birds. FA YUEN STREET Prince Edward MTR Station, Exit B2. Open daily 11am-9:30pm. Heaving with bargain hunters every afternoon, Fa Yuen Street is stuffed with cheap fashion boutiques, factory outlets 124 W H E R E G U E ST B O OK

and accessories stores for men, women and children.

B2

GOLDFISH MARKET Bute Street and Tung Choi Street, Mong Kok. Open daily 10:30am-10pm. Goldfish are said to have a natural ability to stabilize fung shui, making them a popular pet in Hong Kong. These two Mong Kok streets teem with fish in tanks or, more often, plastic bags stapled to the stall walls. JADE MARKET Yau Ma Tei MTR Station, Exit C. Open daily 10am-5pm. In Chinese culture, jade is associated with good health and a long life. The jade market stalls sell everything from expensive carved jade to cheap trinkets, as well as pearls and other jewelry of varying quality. JARDINE’S BAZAAR Causeway Bay MTR Station, Exit F. Open daily 11am-9:30pm. Little Jardine’s Bazaar is jam-packed with cheap, fun things to buy. Geared towards the young and fashion-conscious, you’ll find clothes inspired by the latest catwalk trends for just a few dollars.

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LEISURE LADIES' MARKET Yau Ma Tei MTR, Exit A2. Open daily noon-11:30pm. Find dog toys, trinkets and accessories, racy underwear, costume jewelry and more all along this road. Down the side lanes are vintage shops, fashion outlets and the occasional restaurant. STANLEY MARKET Stanley Market Road, Stanley. Open daily 10:30am-6:30pm. Stanley Market is worth visiting for interesting gifts, sports and casual wear, silk and leather goods. It’s not the cheapest market anymore, but its location in the chilled-out seaside village of Stanley makes for a pleasant day out, especially if you stay for lunch. TEMPLE STREET Jordan MTR Station, Exit A. Open daily 4pm-midnight. This night market comes alive at around 6pm and sells everything from cheap watches to cute accessories and souvenirs. Local amateur musicians perform Cantonese opera on weekends. Stalls with fortune tellers and outdoor restaurants line the shopping area, too. Make sure to drive a hard bargain.

PARKS AND GARDENS HONG KONG PARK 19 Cotton Tree Drive, Central, 2521-5041, www.lcsd.gov.hk. Open daily 6am-11pm. This eight-hectare park has a large walkthrough aviary, a conservatory housing unusual and exotic plants, sports and squash centers, a multi-story playground, a tai chi garden and a clock tower. In the conservation corner are more than 100 species of dragonfly. Also worth visiting are the Flagstaff House Museum of Tea Ware and the Hong Kong Visual Arts Centre. KOWLOON PARK Haiphong Road, Tsim Sha Tsui. Open daily 6am-11pm. Bang in the middle of Tsim Sha Tsui is this surprisingly spacious and tranquil park. Set over 13.5 acres, it features a

Chinese garden, flamingo pond, maze and sculpture garden, as well as sports grounds and pitches, an aviary and one of the best swimming pool complexes in Hong Kong, with indoor and outdoor pools and an excellent sports center. VICTORIA PARK 1 Hing Fat St., Causeway Bay, 2890-5824, www.lcsd.gov.hk. Open daily 6am-11pm. A green lung in Causeway Bay, Victoria Park is a much-loved and well-used park, with shady paths, playgrounds, sports fields and courts, a large swimming pool complex and frequent exhibitions and events. It’s home to the annual Chinese New Year fair and flower market and the finish line of the Standard Chartered marathon. Go early to see the locals practicing tai chi. HONG KONG WETLAND PARK Wetland Park Road, Tin Shui Wai, 3152-2666, www.wetlandpark.com. Open 10am-5pm, Closed Tue. This world-class ecotourism attraction demonstrates the diversity of Hong Kong’s wetlands, and the importance of conservation. It’s a 61-hectare site with user-friendly facilities such as a stream walk, succession walk, mangrove boardwalk and bird hides. The galleries include displays about wetlands worldwide, a television studio and various exhibitions.

TOURS CHEUNG CHAU ISLAND TOUR 2366-7070, www.tiptoptours.com.hk. Cheung Chau is a serene fishing island about an hour’s boat ride from Central. Attractions include the Pak Tai Temple, Tin Hau Temple, Tung Wha Beach and 3,000-year-old rock carvings positioned near the water’s edge. DRAGON’S BACK HIKE Walk Hong Kong, 9187-8641, www.walkhongkong.com. One of Walk Hong Kong’s most popular hikes, the Dragon’s Back is a half-day hike that will give you a comprehensive overview of Hong Kong Island. You WHERE G UEST B OOK 1 2 5


will begin on the Hong Kong tram, in the bustling heart of the metropolis, and then you’ll walk through the wet markets of Shau Kei Wan before hiking and taking in splendid views of the seas and the outlying islands.

HONG KONG FOODIE www.hongkongfoodietours.com. Get to know Hong Kong through the many different foods the city has to offer. Tours in Sham Shui Po and Central/ Sheung Wan available.

GRAY LINE TOURS 2368-7111, www.grayline.com.hk. Explore the historic highlights of the New Territories on a tour that takes you to places you’re otherwise unlikely to see.

KAYAK + HIKE 9300-5197, www.kayak-and-hike.com. See Hong Kong from a whole new angle—by kayak. This tour whisks you out from the beautiful Sai Kung coastline to volcanically formed islands in Sai Kung’s Geopark by super-fast speedboat.

HARBOR CRUISES The Star Ferry (www.starferry.com.hk/ harbourtour) runs harbor tours by day and night, including a two-hour Symphony of Lights tour departing Tsim Sha Tsui at 7:15pm. Other options include the glamorous Aqua Luna (www. aqua.com.hk), a renovated Chinese junk with red sails that departs from either side of the harbor several times a day. And then there’s Watertours (www.water tours.com.hk), which has a number of cruises on offer.

HONG KONG DOLPHINWATCH Hong Kong Dolphinwatch, 2984-1414, www.hkdolphinwatch.com. Yes, they really are pink, even though they’re technically called Chinese white dolphins. See Hong Kong’s rare official animal for yourself on these special five-hour trips to their habitat near Tung Chung.

LITTLE ADVENTURES IN HONG KONG Real Travel Hong Kong, www.realtravelhongkong.com, realtravelhongkong@gmail.com. Allow longtime Hong Kong resident and National Geographic columnist Daisann McLane to take you on an insider’s journey of the culinary paradise that is Hong Kong.

MAI PO MARSHES Mai Po Nature Reserve, 2482-0369, www.wwf.org.hk. Who knew that Hong Kong was a birdwatchers’ paradise? The 1,500-hectare Mai Po Marshes reserve is run by the World Wildlife Fund and is a designated Wetland of International Importance thanks to the thousands of migratory wading birds who pass through each autumn and winter.

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LEISURE SECRET TOUR HK www.facebook.com secrettourhk.

Chung and his partner Josie Cheng have organized outings in neighborhoods from Wan Chai to Tin Shui Wai to Sha Tin, as well as ones aimed at people interested specifically in the arts and in photography. WALK IN HONG KONG www.walkin.hk. Local Haider Kikabhoy and his team lead tours covering different districts in Hong Kong, from fishing village Tai O to culturally rich Sheung Wan. The tours can be conducted in English or Chinese.

BEACHES CHEUNG SHA BEACH Lantau. Catch a ferry from Central Pier 6 to Mui Wo, then take Bus 1, 2 or 4 to Cheung Sha.

Stretching for three glorious kilometers along Lantau’s south coast, Cheung Sha is Hong Kong’s longest beach. With silky soft sand and the towering Sunset Peak as a backdrop, it’s an island paradise. REPULSE BAY Hong Kong Island. Take Bus 6A, 6X or 260 from Exchange Square in Central or 973 from Tsim Sha Tsui. With soft imported sand and consistent water quality, this grade-one beach is one of the most popular in Hong Kong. That means it gets very busy on summer weekends, but rarely at other times. Much quieter is smaller South Bay, a short taxi ride away at the end of South Bay Road.

Walk Hong Kong 9187-8641 www.walkhongkong.com

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LITTLE ADVENTURES IN HONG KONG SHEK O Hong Kong Island. Take Bus 9 from the Shau Kei Wan MTR station. A wide beach on the eastern shores of Hong Kong Island, separated from the

Real Travel Hong Kong www.realtravelhongkong.com realtravelhongkong@gmail.com

www.aqua.com.hk www.watertours.com.hk

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city by a twisting, 40-minute drive. Shek O is a laid-back haven popular with surfers, who kick back here after riding the waves at nearby Big Wave Bay. TAI LONG WAN Sai Kung Country Park. Take a speedboat from Wong Shek Pier to Chek Keng, then follow signposted trail for an hour over a mountain. Or hire a boat to take you directly there. The combination of rollers and inaccessibility has kept Tai Long Wan’s three beaches a natural paradise—wide stretches of white sand are framed by dunes and emerald mountains.

BOAT HIRE & WATER SPORTS DUK LING CHINESE SAILING JUNK Detours Limited, 2573-5282, www.dukling.com.hk. Launched in 1955, the Duk Ling is one of the last authentic sailing junks in Hong Kong. It can carry up to 36 passengers.

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HONG KONG YACHTING 2526-0151, www.hongkongyachting.com. This boat hire company offers a range of options, from a nightly jaunt out on Victoria Harbour to view the light show with a glass of wine in hand to group tours to the nearby island of Po Toi for a seafood feast and hike, to an intimate romantic cruise package for two, which includes three hours on the water, a gourmet meal (plus a waiter), a bottle of champagne and a rose. JASPAS PARTY JUNK 2792-6001, www.jaspasjunk.com. Jaspas has six “party junks” (minimum 14 people) that cruise to a destination of your choice. The junks come loaded with food cooked fresh by the onboard chef, unlimited drinks, waiter service and a sound system for parties. JUBILEE INTERNATIONAL TOUR CENTRE 2/F, Amtel Building, 148 Des Voeux Rd. Central, 3555-5555, www.jubilee.com.hk. Jubilee has a fleet of boats for hire in a variety of sizes and styles, including cruisers, junks and even ferries, all at reasonable prices. A range of services such as catering, water sports and karaoke can be provided at extra cost.

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9 40 www.facebook.com secrettourhk Chung Josie Cheng

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LEISURE SAFFRON CRUISES 2857-1311, www.saffron-cruises.com. Saffron has 24 boats, ranging from a luxurious 65-foot cruiser for 50 to a super-fast speedboat that takes 13 people at a time for 40-minute joyrides from Aberdeen or the Gold Coast. ST. STEPHEN'S BEACH WATER SPORTS CENTRE Wong Ma Kok Path, Stanley, 2813-5407. Once a British military sailing club, this public water sports center in Stanley Bay offers kayaks, dinghies and windsurfers to rent, and also runs training courses and public competitions. Some vessels will require certification, but all certificates can be acquired on site.

GOLF KAU SAI CHAU PUBLIC GOLF COURSE Kau Sai Chau Island, Sai Kung, 2791-3388, www.kscgolf.org.hk. The only public golf course in Hong Kong is set over 250 hectares of a beautiful island in Sai Kung, with stunning views over the South China Sea. Players must have a recognized handicap card and should book up to seven days in advance. Visit the website for details.

JASPAS PARTY JUNK 2792-6001 www.jaspasjunk.com Jaspas 6

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148 2 3555-5555 www.jubilee.com.hk OK 2791-3388 www.kscgolf.org.hk

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Spas BLISS OUT IN THE CITY’S WORLDCLASS SPAS AND SALONS, WHERE ANCIENT TECHNIQUES AND THE LATEST INNOVATIONS COMBINE TO LEAVE YOU RELAXED AND LOOKING GORGEOUS.

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SPAS

SPAS & MASSAGES 10/10 SPACE Unit B, 1/F, Fairview Mansion, 51 Paterson St., Causeway Bay, 3595-1152, www.1010space.com.hk. This is a one-stop beauty shop in the heart of Causeway Bay, with both a spa section that offers facials and body treatments and a salon suite that uses leading haircare products that'll put the bounce back in your tired locks. There's also a lovely nail area, where you can get shiny Minx tips while relaxing in state-of-the-art massage chairs. SPA BEAUTÉ PAR ZAI 12/F, Sea Bird House, 22–28 Wyndham St., Central, 2524-1272, www.spabpz.com. One of the older spas in Hong Kong, with qualified therapists offering treatments in a cozy environment. Henna services, baby massages and paraffin wax baths are a few of the more unique treatments on offer. CHUAN SPA 41/F, Langham Place Hotel, 555 Shanghai St., Mong Kok, 3552-3510, www.chuanspa.com. This stunning spa focuses on the individual needs of each client through traditional Chinese medicine and theories, including yin and yang. Its consultants are qualified in Chinese medicine, massage and naturopathy. CLARINS SKIN SPA Shop 210, Central Building, 1-3A Pedder St., Central, 2810-9938, www.clarins.com.hk. This French skincare brand has a huge following because of its effective and gentle face and body products. Its skin spa has a bright and airy feel, and expert beauty therapists are on hand to treat your skin and leave it glowing.

EMMANUEL F. Shop 211-213, 2/F, Nexxus Building, 41 Connaught Rd. Central, 2167-8280, www.emmanuelf.com. This relaxed and intimate spa and salon was one of the first in Hong Kong to exclusively feature natural, organic products. An eco-friendly vibe pervades, from the pale wood and rattan wall coverings to the sunlight streaming in through large windows. FLAWLESS 4/F, Sea Bird House, 22-28 Wyndham St., Central, 2869-5868. This all-in-one shop offers makeup and nail services, as well as spa treatments in a spacious upper-level venue. INDULGENCE 3/F, Prosperity Tower, 39 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2815-6600, www.indulgence.hk. Indulgence offers facials and body treatments, manicures and pedicures, skincare and image consultations, and a hair spa. With fresh, clean and welcoming décor, this boutique salon is the perfect place to unwind and take a quick break from the city’s hustle and bustle.

EMMANUEL F. 41 2 211-213 2167-8280 www.emmanuelf.com

10 10 SPACE 51 1 B 3595-1152 www.1010space.com.hk

FLAWLESS 22-28 4 2869-5868 www.flawless.hk.com

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I-SPA 3/F, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2313-2351, hongkong-ic.intercontinental.com/spa. Hong Kong’s first feng shui spa is based on principles of mind-body harmony. Relax, rejuvenate and rebalance in one of five luxurious polished granite suites, each with its own sauna, steam shower, jacuzzi and massage facilities. IYARA DAY SPA 1/F, 26 Cochrane St., Central, 2545-8638. This Central institution offers everything from manis and pedis to facials, waxing and massage treatments. KIWI SPA 14/F, Century Square Building, 1-13 D'Aguilar St., Central, 2567-1333, www.kiwi-hk.com. With light green glass, curved walls, soft lighting and gentle music, Kiwi offers quality foot and body massages

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MENCE 19 24 1B 2117-8068 www.mence.com.hk Mence

MEN’S SKIN CENTRE BY BELLA 139 The L Place 9 2526-6352 www.bellaskin.com

MIRASPA 118 3 2315-5500 www.themirahotel.com Mirapa 21

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that are affordable at the same time. iPads and headsets are available to use at your leisure while you're enjoying the treatments. SPA L’OCCITANE Shop 3, Tower 2, Star Crest, 9 Star St., Wan Chai, 2143-6288, www.loccitane.com.hk. Step into the French countryside at L’Occitane’s day spa. Located on Star Street, this 3,000 square-foot, terracottaflagged space uses products inspired by traditional cosmetic recipes from Provence in wonderfully fragrant and relaxing body rituals. MANDARIN SPA 24/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4888, www.mandarinoriental.com/hongkong. This luxe retreat has eight private treatment rooms, including two couple's suites, each with private steam shower and pool. Its therapies combine ancient and contemporary techniques, and specialist practitioners offer treatments that incorporate ayurvedic philosophies and traditional Chinese medicine. 132 W H E R E G U E ST B O OK

MENCE BEAUTY FOR MEN SKINCARE & BODY TONING CENTRE Unit 1B, 24/F, World-Wide House, 19 Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2117-8068, www.mence.com.hk. Best known for its body toning expertise, Mence also offers hair removal as well as treatments for double chins, undereye circles, wrinkles and freckles, acne and enlarged pores. Check website for other locations. MEN’S SKIN CENTRE BY BELLA 9/F, The L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2526-6352, www.bellaskin.com. This center has tailor-made treatments that focus on deep cleansing, acne treatment, and rehydration to brighten and improve your complexion. It also offers laser hair removal services.

70 5 506-509 3102-0208 www.ilcolpo.com.hk

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2-8 M88 14 2868-9100 www.nude waxing.com.hk Nude

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PLATEAU SPA 1 11 2588-1234 www.hongkong.grand.hyatt.com 80,000 Plateau Spa

MIRASPA B3/F, The Mira Hong Kong, 118 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-5500, www.themirahotel.com. It’s pampering for the 21st century. The MiraSpa is comfortably futuristic, with purple and pure white accents and an indoor pool decorated with twinkling lights. Facilities include a jacuzzi plus steam and sauna

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SPAS rooms—and nifty waterbeds in the pre-treatment room. MU LAN SPA Unit 506-509, 5/F, Crawford House, 70 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3102-0208, www.ilcolpo.com.hk. Best known for facials and massages, Mu Lan is an upscale place with a Middle Eastern ambience and good facilities. NUDE 14/F, M88 Building, 2–8 Wellington St., Central, 2868-9100, www.nudewaxing.com.hk. Strategically located in Central, waxing boutique Nude offers a whole host of intimate and stylish services. Internationally trained therapists offer permanent hair removal, skin tightening, deep-cleansing facials and, of course, waxing for both men and women. This fashionable salon is most famous for its Brazilian and Hollywood waxes. PLATEAU SPA 11/F, Grand Hyatt, 1 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2588-1234, www.hongkong.grand.hyatt.com. This whopping 80,000-square-foot spa offers overnight accommodation and an extensive range of facial and body treatments in 23 rooms and suites. Other facilities include a 50-meter outdoor pool, fitness and exercise studios, a poolside grill restaurant and a tree-lined courtyard. QUAN SPA M/F, SkyCity Marriott Hotel, 1 Sky City Rd. East, Hong Kong International Airport, Chek Lap Kok, Lantau, 3969-2192, www.quanspa.com. Quan Spa, located near the airport, is the place to go for a relaxing escape, either to prepare for a long flight or just to get away from the city for a while. SENSE OF TOUCH 1-5/F, 52 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2526-6918, www.senseoftouch.com.hk. This award-winning day spa boasts an extensive menu, featuring such services as a couple’s deep tissue and detoxifying massage, and a rose hydrating cocoon body wrap. The lush spa also offers a

range of exclusive signature treatments, including the Elemis hot stone therapy for body and face. SPA MTM Shop 118, Citygate Outlets, Tung Chung, Lantau, 2923-6060, www.mtmskincare.com. Started in Japan, MTM is an authority in custom-blended skincare. Every treatment is personalized using different essences to suit individual needs and skin types. The Tung Chung spa has three special zones: the Pure Hydrotherapy zone with sauna and steam rooms; the Holistic Wellness zone for massage and hand and foot treatments; and the Aesthetic Spa zone with a suite that uses color and light to bring about homeostasis. THE ORIENTAL SPA 5/F, Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2132-0011, www.mandarinoriental.com/landmark. Taking up two floors of this swanky hotel is the breathtaking Oriental Spa. It has tons of facilities, including yoga and Pilates studios, in a maze of rooms and relaxation areas. Just for women, there’s the rasul mud treatment—a Moroccan specialty—and the amethyst crystal steam room; for men, a gorgeous hamam bath. Try to arrive early to experience the complimentary facilities that are yours to use with any treatment, such as the 18-meter lap pool. THE PENINSULA SPA BY ESPA 7/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2969-6682, www.hongkong.peninsula.com. This two-floor spa has sweeping harbor views. Designed by Henry Leung, the interior fuses contemporary and traditional Chinese elements. Much attention has been given to detail, including 100-percent Egyptian cotton robes and fully automated Clodagh Gemini treatment beds. Book a treatment, then get there an hour early to use the Greco-Roman swimming pool, Asian tea lounge, thermal suite with a crystal steam room, sauna overlooking Victoria Harbour and other relaxation areas.

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8 6 3196-8900 www.fourseasons.com hongkong 22,000 15 5 2132-0011 www.mandarinoriental.com landmark

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THE RITZ-CARLTON SPA BY ESPA 116/F, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2263-2040, www.ritzcarlton.com/hongkong. Get pampered at the highest hotel spa in the world. Located on the 116th floor, this relaxing retreat looms over the city and offers majestic views of Victoria Harbour. Spa guests can also take a dip in the hotel's sky-high infinity pool after their treatments. THE SPA AT FOUR SEASONS 6/F, Four Seasons Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central, 3196-8900, www.fourseasons.com/hongkong. This urban sanctuary is everything you would expect from the Four Seasons: 22,000 square feet of sumptuousness, including Finnish saunas, an ice fountain, a crystal fountain, vitality pools and an amethyst crystal steam room. Two spa suites include a pool for two, day beds and a private bar. TEN FEET TALL 20-21/F, L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2971-1010, www.tenfeettall.com.hk. Go to Ten Feet Tall for a slightly different foot massage experience in an exotic ambience. The foot massage center features bright and sunny beach cabanas with pine, bamboo, natural marble and bright décor. The place’s signature treatments include genuine foot reflexology, shoulder and neck massage, pressure point massage and aromatic oil massage.

SALONS AIMEE AT THE SHANGRI-LA 8/F, Island Shangri-La, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2918-1339. Staffed by international stylists offering everything from bridal makeovers, haircuts, coloring and waves to manicures, pedicures and professional makeup application. AIRPLAY BLOW DRY BAR 7/F, W Place, 52 Wyndham St., Central, 2641-9888, www.airplaybar.com. Get your hair and makeup done all at once at Airplay, and choose from 134 W H E R E G U E ST B O OK

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different looks like “Sea Breeze” (wavy hair) or “Mojito” (playful curls). AMIKA HAIRDO BAR G/F, 8 Elgin St., Central, 2291-0070. Need your hair done for the night? Head to Amika Hairdo Bar for a quick do-over that involves pure styling and zero cutting. AVEDA LIFESTYLE SALON & SPA Shop 2225–2226, 2/F, Gateway Arcade, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2157-6031, www.aveda.com.hk. Famous for products made from pure plant extracts, Aveda offers hair styling, facials, massages and body treatments. It has a number of outlets with professional stylists and beauticians on site to offer advice and tips.

AIMEE AT THE SHANGRI LA

GLOW BY CERI SILK 9/F, Parker House, 72 Queen's Rd. Central, 2525-5198, www.cerisilk.com. Glow is a one-stop beauty shop for busy bees. With a vast range of hair and beauty services available, get gel nails done while enjoying a mini facial or professional hair extensions.

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ERA BY PAUL GERRARD G/F, 36 Pottinger St., Central, www.era-salon.hk. This quirky hair salon with interiors inspired by “old” London offers cuts and other hair services found at Paul Gerrard establishments.

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HAIR CRAFT G/F, 61 Elgin St., Central, 2868-6985, www.haircraft-salon.com. Embracing simple and natural styles, Hair Craft’s team of stylists and colorists offer a full range of services including cuts, finishing, perms, straightening and extensions. HEADQUARTERS 11/F, Pacific House, 20 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2868-9092, www.hq-headquarters.com. Located right downtown, Headquarters boasts a whopping 7,400 square feet of funky, fashionable salon space. In addition to comprehensive hair services, it offers manicures and professional makeup.

THE RITZ-CARLTON SPA


SPAS HIPP.FISH 1-2/F, 32 Staunton St., Central, 2815-3638, www.hippfish.com. Hipp.Fish’s internationally trained stylists specialize in highlights and cutting curly hair as well as Japanese straightening and applying real extensions. Coloring, perming and bleaching services are also available.

with floor-to-ceiling windows looking out onto an astounding harbor view. Expect to find yourself rubbing shoulders with politicians, tycoons and jetsetters.

IL COLPO Shop 203, 2/F, Pacific Place, Admiralty, 2802-0151, www.ilcolpo.com.hk. Squarely in the premier league of Hong Kong salons, Il Colpo has more than 22 experienced stylists and technicians across its classically designed premises.

TALA’S HAIR AND BEAUTY CENTRE G/F, 56 Po Tung Rd., Sai Kung, 2335-1694, www.talashairandbeautycentre.com. This stylish salon offers fashionable haircuts and coloring, manicures, pedicures and even full-body massages. Tailored services include professional hair extensions as well as organic African relaxer and Brazilian keratin hair treatments.

KEN QI PRIVATE I SALON Shop 201, 2/F, Central Building, 1-3 Pedder St., Central, 2522-1112, www.privatei.com.hk. In the top tier of Hong Kong salons, Ken Qi Private I has earned a celebrity following because of its cutting-edge creativity and fab VIP rooms. The softly lit interior is decked out in soothing cream and deep brown tones.

THD THE HAIRDRESSERS 7/F, Abdoolally House, 20 Stanley St., Central, 2973-0512, www.thd.com.hk. This is the United Nations of hair salons, with hand-picked stylists from around the globe ready to cater to your specific needs. Returning to its roots as an intimate boutique salon, THD specializes in curly hair, Japanese straightening, extensions and color.

KIM ROBINSON Shop 106, Chater House, 8 Connaught Rd. Central, 2121-8484, www.kimrobinson.com. Kim Robinson has dressed worldfamous heads, including those of Jackie Chan and the late Princess Diana. His prices are as upscale as his client list, and Robinson is usually booked weeks in advance.

THE COLOUR BAR 11/F, EuBank Plaza, 9 Chiu Lung St., Central, 2525-4228. The Colour Bar emphasizes personal styling, creating a look according to your personality and lifestyle as well as the tone of your hair and your bone structure. Its accolade-earning top stylists are internationally trained and more experienced than most. Other beauty services on offer include manicures, pedicures, foot treatments, waxing, reflexology and facials.

PAUL GERRARD HAIR & BEAUTY 1-2/F, Wah Hing House, 35 Pottinger St., Central, 2869-4408, www.paulgerrard.com. This established hair salon has an international team of stylists, all specialists in cutting and organic color systems. The salon also features an entire floor devoted to skincare and body maintenance, including manicures, pedicures and waxing. QG PRIVATE I SALON 6/F, Four Seasons Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central, 2521-0070, www.privatei.com.hk. Located in the Four Seasons, the flagship of the Private I group is suitably beautiful,

KIM ROBINSON

IL COLPO

TALA’S HAIR AND BEAUTY CENTRE

2 203 wwww.ilcolpo.com.hk Il Colpo 22

56 2335-1694 www.talashairandbeautycentre.com

KEN QI PRIVATE I SALON 1-3 2 201 2522-1112 www.privatei.com.hk Ken Qi Private I

THD THE HAIRDRESSERS 20 7 www.thd.com.hk

2973-0512

THD THD

KIM ROBINSON 8 106 2121-8484 www.kimrobinson.com Kim Robinson

1,540

THE STRAND SALON 18 Cochrane St., Central, 2850-7686, www.thestrandhk.com. The Strand is a five-story hair and beauty retreat in downtown SoHo specializing in treatments designed for pre-party pampering. A wide range of hair, skin and nail treatments are available, including intensive Japanese hair treatments, Brazilian blowouts and liquid gold manicures. Get a group of friends together and book to enjoy these treatments in the lounge with canapés and cocktails, which can be rented out (along with the rooftop) for beauty parties.

2802-0151

6,300

THE COLOUR BAR 9 11 2525-4228 www.thecolourbar.com.hk The Colour Bar

PAUL GERRARD HAIR & BEAUTY 35 1-2 2869-4408 www.paulgerrard.com

THE STRAND SALON 18 2850-7686 www.thestrandhk.com The Strand 5

QG PRIVATE I SALON 8 6 2521-0070 www.privatei.com.hk Private I

WHERE G UEST B OOK 1 35


TONI & GUY UG/F, 3-5 Old Bailey St., Central, 2533-3833, www.toniandguy.com.hk. This international salon chain boasts an extensive selection of hairdressing options. It offers discounts for students and children age 12 and under from Monday to Thursday. The Repulse Bay branch also hosts an exclusive hair spa room, a separate facility in a private area that focuses on customized hair spa treatments to enhance the health and conditioning of your hair and scalp.

NAILS FINGERTRIX Shop 215A, 2/F, Melbourne Plaza, 33 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2524-7423, www.fingertrix.com. This reliable nail shop has been in business since 1986, and owner Rebecca has built up a loyal clientele. She offers acrylic and gel nails in a private location right in the heart of Central, using popular American products and creating nail art to suit any style.

NAIL NAIL Shop 1091A, 1/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2366-9322, www.nailnail.com.hk. This is the place for innovative nails, including gel nails, airbrushing and the truly decadent one-carat diamond manicure, which is by appointment only. It also offers waxing and temporary tattoos. NAIL SPA 1/F, 8 Pak Sha Rd., Causeway Bay, 2478-9333, www.nailspa.com.hk. Nail services and treatments for men and women are the specialty here, including French manicures and paraffin foot therapy. Gel and acrylic nails are available along with nail painting, embossed nail art, semi-precious gemstones, crystal embossing and graduated nail painting. THE NAIL LIBRARY 6 Po Hing Fong, Sheung Wan, 2803-2290. This nail spa modelled after a New York-style loft offers manis and pedis using top brands from around the world. Hand and foot spa treatments also available, as well as makeup services.

TONI & GUY

MINX NAILS AT MIRASPA

3-5 UG

118 3 2315-5500 www.themirahotel.com

2533-3833 www.toniandguy.com.hk

Beyonce 12

Katy Perry Rihanna MiraSpa

NAIL NAIL 8 1091A 2366-9322 www.nailnail.com.hk. Nail Nail 1

FINGERTRIX 33 2 215A 2524-7423 www.fingerix.com 1986 Rebecca

1

NAIL SPA 8 1 2836-6333 www.nailspa.com.hk

MANIPEDI 20 902 2815-3319 www.manipedi.com.hk ManiPedi

The Nail Library 6

2803-2290

MANIPEDI Room 902, Abdoolally House, 20 Stanley St., Central, 2815-3319, www.manipedi.com.hk. ManiPedi offers an express French manicure as well as standard pedicures and spa treatments for women and men. It also boasts acrylic and gel nail services as well as painted nail art, semi-precious gemstones, paraffin wax pedicures, “tired legs” spa pedicures and more. MINX NAILS AT MIRASPA B3/F, The Mira Hong Kong, 118 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-5500, www.themirahotel.com. A well-known brand that has adorned the nails of celebs like Beyonce, Katy Perry and Rihanna with elaborate designs has made it all the way to Hong Kong with its outpost at MiraSpa.

THE NAIL LIBRARY

136 W H E R E G U E ST B O OK



Museums &Galleries MODERN ART AND ANCIENT ARTIFACTS— YOU CAN FIND THEM ALL IN HONG KONG'S GALLERIES AND MUSEUMS.

LIANG YI MUSEUM 138 W H E R E G U E ST B O OK


MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

MUSEUMS

including major traveling exhibitions from world-class museums. Closed Thursdays.

FLAGSTAFF HOUSE MUSEUM OF TEAWARE 10 Cotton Tree Drive, Hong Kong Park, Central, 2869-0690, www.hk.art.museum. Located in Flagstaff House, the oldest surviving colonial building in the territory and once the home of the commander-in-chief of British forces in Hong Kong, the museum houses a prized Asian teaware collection. It’s also home to Lock Cha Tea House, which serves myriad varieties of tea and delicate vegetarian dim sum in a cute Chinesestyle setting. Closed Tuesdays.

HONG KONG MUSEUM OF HISTORY 100 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2724-9042, hk.history.museum. Worth a few hours of anyone’s time, this fascinating museum explores 6,000 years of Hong Kong history, from the Neolithic to the post-war period, with recreations of prehistoric scenes and the early colonial era. But it’s the reconstruction of a post-war street, complete with a tram and traveling Chinese opera company, that really grabs the imagination. Closed Tuesdays.

HONG KONG FILM ARCHIVE 50 Lei King Rd., Sai Wan Ho, 2739-2139, www.filmarchive.gov.hk. A repository of all things related to Hong Kong films, the Archive contains lots of movies, conservation labs, a resource center, exhibition hall and a cinema. Closed Tuesdays. HONG KONG HERITAGE MUSEUM 1 Man Lam Rd., Sha Tin, 2180-8188, hk.heritage.museum. This modern museum is devoted to preserving the city’s historical, art and cultural heritage. Permanent exhibitions on the New Territories and Cantonese opera, plus a Children’s Discovery Gallery of natural and cultural history, including toy-making. Closed Tuesdays and public holidays. HONG KONG MARITIME MUSEUM Central Ferry Pier No. 8, 3713-2500, www.hkmaritimemuseum.org. This museum holds semi-permanent and special exhibitions tracing Hong Kong's growth into a major world port, and the contributions made by China and the West to the development of ships, maritime exploration, trade and naval warfare. HONG KONG MUSEUM OF ART 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721-0116, www.hk.art.museum. One of the city’s largest museums houses fine examples of ancient Chinese art from the Han to the Qing dynasties. The exhibition galleries regularly showcase contemporary and international works,

HONG KONG MUSEUM OF MEDICAL SCIENCES 2 Caine Lane, Mid-Levels, 2549-5123, www.hkmms.org.hk. This museum charts the development of medicine in the city. Hong Kong was one of the first places to focus on both western and traditional Chinese approaches to health care. There are antique apothecary equipment and other items of interest to the medical-history buff. Closed Mondays. HONG KONG RAILWAY MUSEUM 13 Shung Tak St., Tai Po Market, Tai Po, 2653-3455, hk.heritage.museum. This small, picturesque museum is situated in a former train station, a charming 1913 building with a traditional tiled roof now declared a historical monument. Closed Tuesdays. HONG KONG SCIENCE MUSEUM 2 Science Museum Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2732-3232, hk.science.museum. Great for kids, thanks to about 500 permanent exhibits that explore all aspects of science and technology, including robotics, virtual reality and transportation. Closed Thursdays. HONG KONG SPACE MUSEUM 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721-0226, hk.space.museum. Explore the final frontier at the Space Museum and learn all about astronomy and space technology. One of the largest planetariums in the world, it features daily Omnimax screenings and sky shows. Closed Tuesdays.

ASIA SOCIETY HONG KONG

100 hk.history.museum 10

2869-0690

6,000

www.hk.art.museum

50 2739-2139 www.filmarchive.gov.hk

1

2180-8188 hk.heritage.museum

2724-9042

2 2549-5123 www.hkmms.org.hk

13 2653-3455 hk.heritage.museum 1913

8 3713-2500 www.hkmaritimemuseum.org

2 hk.science.museum

2732-3232 500

10 www.hk.art.museum

2721-0116

10 2721-0226 hk.space.museum

WHERE G UEST B OOK 1 39


14 2896-7006 hk.history.museum 18

1A 63 14 2529-0087 www.oneaspace.org.hk

1989

10 CHANCERY LANE GALLERY

175 2569-1500 hk.coastaldefence.museum 19

27

10 2810-0065 www.10chancerylanegallery.com 2001 3

2P CONTEMPORARY ART GALLERY

2849-7019 600

1844

23 www.2p-gallery.com

5

2803-2151

SAM TUNG UK MUSEUM 2

LAW UK FOLK MUSEUM 14 Kut Shing St., Chai Wan, 2896-7006, hk.history.museum. Law Uk, which means “Law’s House” after its original owner, is an 18th-century, Qing-dynasty Hakka village house, complete with furnishings and artifacts— the sole remaining architectural example of its kind in the area. Closed Thursdays. MUSEUM OF COASTAL DEFENCE 175 Tung Hei Rd., Shau Kei Wan, 2569-1500, hk.coastaldefence.museum. Set in a 19th-century British fort with spectacular views of the Lei Yue Mun channel, it features the original restored batteries and camouflaged cannons under a new tented canopy. Closed Thursdays. POLICE MUSEUM 27 Coombe Rd., The Peak, 2849-7019. This interesting little museum has more than 600 artifacts relating to the Hong Kong Police, from the force’s inception in 1844 to today. It’s split into four sections including a gallery devoted to triad societies, Hong Kong's equivalent of gangs. Closed Mondays and public holidays. SAM TUNG UK MUSEUM 2 Kwu Uk Lane, Tsuen Wan, 2411-2001, hk.heritage.museum. Offering a fascinating insight into Hong Kong’s past, Sam Tung Uk (“three rows of dwelling”) is a restored 200-year140 W H E R E G U E ST B O OK

old walled village. It contains displays of period furniture, handicrafts and agricultural equipment. Closed Tuesdays. DR. SUN YAT-SEN MUSEUM 7 Castle Rd., Central, 2367-6373, hk.drsunyatsen.museum. Housed in a restored early 20th-century landmark, this museum celebrates the life of the revolutionary leader Dr. Sun Yat-Sen, who spent a lot of time in Hong Kong, with two permanent exhibitions. Closed Thursdays. UNIVERSITY MUSEUM AND ART GALLERY The University of Hong Kong, 94 Bonham Rd., Pok Fu Lam, 2241-5500, www.hku.hk/hkumag. Established in 1953, UMAG is the oldest museum in Hong Kong and houses more than 1,000 Chinese antiquities—mostly ceramics, bronzes and paintings dating from the Neolithic period to the Qing dynasty. Closed Sunday mornings and public holidays.

2411-2001 hk.heritage.museum 200

1 3483-7950 www.above-second.com

7 2367-6373 hk.drsunyatsen.museum 20

94 www.hku.hk hkumag 1953

ABOVE SECOND

AGNÈS B. LIBRAIRIE GALERIE 118 2869-5505 www.agnesb.com Agnès b. 2241-5500

7 23 2305 2526-1091 www.alisan.com.hk 1981

GALLERIES 1A SPACE Unit 14, Cattle Depot Artist Village, 63 Ma Tau Kok Rd., To Kwa Wan, 2529-0087, www.oneaspace.org.hk. An independent, non-profit venture established by local artists, it’s located in a former cattle shed.

DE SARTHE GALLERY



10 CHANCERY LANE GALLERY G/F, 10 Chancery Lane, Central, 2810-0065, www.10chancerylanegallery.com. Consisting of three large gallery spaces, this gallery not only holds exhibitions of paintings, photographs, installations and videos, but also performances by renowned artists.

especially those from developing countries like Brazil, Russia, India and China.

2P CONTEMPORARY ART GALLERY Shop 5, G/F, 23 Po Tuck St., Sai Ying Pun, 2803-2151, www.2p-gallery.com. Featuring artists who either push the envelope, break out of the box or bend the mind, this is one place that's helping advance the Hong Kong art scene.

ART BEATUS Shop A, 129-133 Wellington St., Central, 2526-0818. Fresh from a revamp, Art Beatus’s collection of contemporary Chinese artists has a retro slant and uses elements of pop, propaganda, illustration and cartoon as vehicles for expression.

ABOVE SECOND 9 First St., Sai Ying Pun, 3483-7950, www.above-second.com. Drawing inspiration from graphic design, illustration, graffiti, comic books and pop culture, expect plenty of raw creativity from this lot. Closed mornings, Sundays and Mondays. AGNÈS B. LIBRAIRIE GALERIE G/F, 118 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2869-5505, www.agnesb.com. French fashion chain and long-time supporter of the arts, Agnès b. supports a contemporary art space dedicated to showing the best art from Asia and the world. ALISAN FINE ARTS Room 2305, Hing Wai Centre, 7 Tin Wan Praya Rd., Aberdeen, 2526-1091, www.alisan.com.hk. Founded in 1981, Alisan Fine Arts has organized more than 100 exhibitions for Chinese artists from around the world. AMELIA JOHNSON CONTEMPORARY G/F, 6-10 Shin Hing St., Central, 2548-2286, www.ajc-art.com. Amelia Johnson Contemporary makes promoting emerging artists their business. AP CONTEMPORARY 28 Tai Ping Shan St., Sheung Wan, 3105-2148, www.apcontemporary.com. AP Contemporary is dedicated to supporting up-and-coming contemporary artists, 142 W H E R E G U E ST B O OK

ARCH ANGEL ART GALLERY 30 Peel St., Central, 2851-6882. Dedicated to top-quality Southeast Asian art, Arch Angel has a large selection of Vietnamese oil paintings that combine Asian and Western artistic traditions.

ASIA SOCIETY HONG KONG 9 Justice Drive, Admiralty, 2103-9511, www.asiasociety.org/hong-kong. Asia Society Hong Kong's headquarters are in a beautifully refurbished former storehouse for British artillery and ammunition. Playing host to a myriad of lectures, exhibitions, performances, film screenings, tours, seminars and conferences—97 percent of which are open to the public—the Asia Society is a literal treasure trove. Closed Mondays. ASIA FINE ART 14 Sik On St., Wan Chai, 2522-0405, www.asia-fineart.com. Asia Fine Art is dedicated to promoting young Asian artists, selling their work at affordable prices.

AMELIA JOHNSON CONTEMPORARY 6-10 www.ajc-art.com

2548-2286

ASIA FINE ART 14

2522-0405

Asia Fine Art

AP CONTEMPORARY

AVENUE DES ARTS

28 3105-2148 www.apcontemporary.com AP Contemporary

233 12 1206 2744-6644 www.avenuedesarts.org 12 AVENUE DES ARTS

ARCH ANGEL ART GALLERY BEN BROWN FINE ARTS

30 2851-6882 Arch Angel

129-133

12 301 2522-9600 www.benbrownfinearts.com 10 Ben Brown

A

2526-0818

BLINDSPOT GALLERY 24-26A 2517-6238 www.blindspotgallery.com.

ASIA SOCIETY HONG KONG CONNOISSEUR ART GALLERY

9 2103-9511 www.asiasociety.org hong-kong Asia Society Hong Kong

1 G3 2868-5358 www.connoisseur-art.com Connoisseur 1989

THE CAT STREET GALLERY 97 Asia Society

222 2291-0006 www.thecatstreetgallery.com

AVENUE DES ARTS Unit 1206, 12/F, Hollywood Centre, 233 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2744-6644, www.avenuedesarts.org. Newly opened last December in the heart of trendy Sheung Wan, Avenue des Arts focuses mainly on bringing new and established French artists to Hong Kong. It showcases a variety of media, including oil paintings, sculpture and photography. BEN BROWN FINE ARTS 301 Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2522-9600, www.benbrownfinearts.com. After 10 years at Sotheby’s and two more at a private gallery, Ben Brown and his wife sought to create a space

AGNÈS B. LIBRAIRIE GALERIE



CONTEMPORARY BY ANGELA LI 248 www.cbal.com.hk Angela Li 2009

3571-8200

2 2521-7251 www.hkfringeclub.com

3

CULTURE CLUB GALLERY 15 2127-7936 www.cultureclub.com.hk.

FABRIK CONTEMPORARY ART 148 11 2 2525-4911 www.fabrik-gallery.com Fabrik Contemporary Art 2008 Banksy

DE SARTHE FINE ART 16 8 www.desarthe.com 19 20

2167-8896

Romero Britto

Banksy

GAGOSIAN GALLERY 12 BEN BROWN FINE ARTS

that housed pieces reflective of their tastes—primarily on European modern and contemporary artworks. BLINDSPOT GALLERY 15/F, Po Chai Industrial Building, 28 Wong Chuk Hang Rd., Wong Chuk Hang, 2517-6238, www.blindspotgallery.com. Seeing contemporary photography as the “blind spot” in the Hong Kong art market, this small gallery aims to represent predominantly local photographers. CONNOISSEUR ART GALLERY Shop G3, Chinachem Hollywood Centre, 1 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2868-5358, www.connoisseur-art.com. Connoisseur has been specializing in contemporary Chinese fine art since 1989. THE CAT STREET GALLERY 222 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2291-0006, www.thecatstreetgallery.com. Showcasing contemporary and modern art in a variety of mediums, Cat Street exhibits emerging and established artists from around the world. CONTEMPORARY BY ANGELA LI G/F, 248 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 3571-8200, www.cbal.com.hk. Angela Li was an art lover for many years, and in 2009, she opened her gallery space representing cutting-edge 144 W H E R E G U E ST B O OK

artists from America and Europe, as well as key artists from China. CULTURE CLUB GALLERY G/F, 15 Elgin St., Central, 2127-7936, www.cultureclub.com.hk. Part café and part art gallery, Culture Club Gallery features a rotating lineup of upand-coming local and international artists.

7 12

8 1 2810-0317 www.edouardmalingue.com

2010 9 1,600

2151-0555 Gagosian 2011 1

11 1 108 2525-0529 www.galeriedumonde.com 1974

DE SARTHE GALLERY 8/F, 16 Ice House St., Central, 2167-8896, www.desarthe.com. Specializing in the sale of 19th- and 20thcentury masters, previous exhibitions have shown the works of art world greats such as Miro, Picasso and Hans Hartung. FRINGE CLUB 2 Lower Albert Rd., Central, 2521-7251, www.hkfringeclub.com. An active performing and visual arts center with exhibition spaces. All feature new work by local artists. There's also a popular bar and two theater spaces. EDOUARD MALINGUE GALLERY 1/F, 8 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2810-0317, www.edouardmalingue.com. Talk about making an entrance: Edouard Malingue’s September 2010 debut featured the largest Picasso exhibit ever seen in these parts. The gallery has 1,600 square feet of exhibition space to browse displays of western Impressionist art and modern Asian works.

GALERIE DU MONDE



FABRIK CONTEMPORARY ART 11/F, Room 2, Lam Ho Hang Building, 148 Wing Lok St., Sheung Wan, 2525-4911, www.fabrik-gallery.com. The gallery that first brought Banksy to Hong Kong’s shores in 2008, Fabrik Contemporary Art houses colorful, popinspired works by Takashi Murakami, Romero Britto and their first local Hong Kong artist, Kako Peco. GAGOSIAN GALLERY 7/F, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2151-0555. With 12 galleries and counting, the famed Gagosian has chosen Hong Kong as its gateway to Asia. The studio opened its doors in January 2011 with a bang— Gagosian only exhibits the crème-de-lacrème of the art world. GALERIE DU MONDE Shop 108, 1/F, Ruttonjee Center, 11 Duddell St. Central, 2525-0529, www.galeriedumonde.com. Established in 1974, Galerie du Monde hosts exhibitions of modern and contemporary works by established and emerging Chinese artists. Closed Sundays and public holidays. GALERIE KOO 7/F, Vogue Building, 67 Wyndham St., Central, 2525-0331, www.galeriekoo.com. Owned by art appreciator Cecilia Koo in the space formerly occupied by the Ian Tan Gallery, Galerie Koo strives to introduce works by Europe-based contemporary and abstract artists. GALLERY EXIT 3/F, 25 Hing Wo St., Tin Wan, Aberdeen, 2541-1299, www.galleryexit.com. Representing contemporary works from international and local figures, Gallery Exit acts as a platform that seeks to foster artists' growth over the long term. GROTTO FINE ART 1-2/F, 31C-D, Wyndham St., Central, 2121-2270, www.grottofineart.com. Curated by Henry Au-yeung, a specialist in 20th-century Chinese art history, this gallery exclusively represents local Chinese artists. 146 W H E R E G U E ST B O OK

HANART TZ GALLERY 401 Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2526-9019, www.hanart.com. Founded in 1983, Hanart TZ Gallery is a leading specialist in contemporary Chinese art. IDENTITY ART GALLERY G/F, 53 Tung St., Sheung Wan, 2540-5353, www.identityartgallery.com. A neat, tiny space on the western edge of Sheung Wan, Identity presents artists from across the globe in solo shows and group exhibitions. I/O (INPUT/OUTPUT) G/F, Hung Mou Industrial Building, 62 Hung To Rd., Kwun Tong, 3105-1127, www.inputoutput.tv. Through exhibitions, talks and debates that focus on new media, I/O serves as a platform for both non-profit and for-profit artistic organizations and activities. KARIN WEBER GALLERY G/F, 20 Aberdeen St., Central, 2544-5004, www.karinwebergallery.com. The gallery organizes exhibitions by a wide spectrum of international and local artists who work in a variety of mediums. KORU CONTEMPORARY ART Unit 1604, 16/F, Hing Wai Centre, 7 Tin Wan Praya Rd., Aberdeen, 2580-5922, www.koru-hk.com. Wood, brass, stone, glass and ceramic are a few of Koru’s specialties—sculpture being its forte—although it also dabbles in other conventional and unconventional forms of fine art. KWAI FUNG HIN ART GALLERY G/F, 20 Ice House St., Central, 2580-0058, www.kwaifunghin.com. Kwai Fung Hin has held a number of major exhibitions to promote contemporary European artists. L’APRES-MIDI GALLERY G/F, 2 King St., Tin Hau, www.l-apres-midi.com. L’apres-midi is one of a handful of galleries pushing affordable, locally produced, 100-percent original artworks for the lay

LEHMANN MAUPIN

GALERIE KOO

I O INPUT OUTPUT

67 7 2525-0331 www.galeriekoo.com. Cecilia Koo Ian Tan Gallery

62 3105-1127 www.inputoutput.tv I O Galerie Koo

KARIN WEBER GALLERY GALLERY EXIT 25 2541-1299 www.galleryexit.com Gallery EXIT 2008

3

20 2544-5004 www.karinwebergallery.com

KORU CONTEMPORARY ART

GROTTO FINE ART

7 16 1604 2580-5922 www.koru-hk.com . Koru

31C-D 1-2 2121-2270 www.grottofineart.com 20 20 2580-0058 www.kwaifunghin.com 12 401 2526-9019 www.hanart.com 1983 2

IDENTITY ART GALLERY 53 2540-5353 www.identityartgallery.com

www.l-apres-midi.com


MUSEUMS & GALLERIES collector or just about anyone looking to decorate their living or working space. LEHMANN MAUPIN GALLERY Unit 407, 4/F, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2530-0025, www.lehmannmaupin.com. With the original branch in New York and with its reputation of supporting contemporary art and culture, the Lehmann Maupin Gallery has just opened its first location in Hong Kong. Architect Rem Koolhas designed the gallery, making sure to keep the historic columns in the Pedder Building intact. LOUIS VUITTON GALLERY Louis Vuitton Mansion, 5 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 8100-1182. LV has been invading gallery spaces for the past half decade, stirring unrest in the hearts of hard-line art critics but appreciation in the eyes of those beholders who’re able to look past reservations about brandname commercialism. NEW GALLERY ON OLD BAILEY 4/F, 35 Tai Yau St., SPK, Kai Tak, 22349889, www.newgalleryonoldbailey.com. Established in 1999, the gallery aims to promote contemporary Chinese fine art. OPERA GALLERY G–3/F, 52 Wyndham St., 2810-1208, www.operagallery.com. This gallery features works by worldfamous international artists, including

Picasso, Chagall, Salvador Dali, Renoir and Chinese painter Ting Shao-kuang, among others. OSAGE GALLERY 4/F, Union Hing Yip Factory Building, 20 Hing Yip St., Kwun Tong, 2793-4817, www.osagegallery.com. Committed to presenting innovative contemporary art, Osage has two spectacular warehouse-style galleries space in Kwun Tong. PARA/SITE ART SPACE G/F, 4 Po Yan St., Sheung Wan, 2517-4620, www.para-site.org.hk. Para/Site Art Space is a cutting-edge visual art organization that produces, exhibits and spreads awareness of highquality contemporary art. THE PEAK SUITE Room 1001, 10/F, Miramar Tower, 132 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2530-2900, www.thepeaksuite.com.hk. Founder Gérard Lasés has over two decades of experience in the European art scene, and it shows. The Peak Suites consistently exhibits well-known artists. PICTURE THIS Room 212, 2/F, Prince's Building Central, 2525-2803, www.picturethiscollection.com. The city’s largest affordable art gallery specializes in posters, antique maps, prints and early photographs of Hong Kong and China.

SUNDARAM TAGORE

LEHMANN MAUPIN GALLERY

OSAGE GALLERY

12 4 407 2530-0025 www.lehmannmaupin.com

20 4 2793-4817 www.osagegallery.com

Lehmann Maupin Gallery Rem Koolhas

Osage

Lee Bu 3D

PARA SITE

LOUIS VUITTON GALLERY

4 2517-4620 www.para-site.org.hk Para Site

Louis Vuitton Mansion Espace Louis Vuitton 8100-1182 5 LV 132 10 1001 2530-2900 www.thepeaksuite.com.hk Gérard Lasés

20

NEW GALLERY ON OLD BAILEY 17 2234-9889 www.newgalleryonoldbailey.com 1999

PICTURE THIS 2 212 2525-2803 www.picturethiscollection.com

OPERA GALLERY 52 3 www.operagallery.com

PICTURE THIS

2810-1208

PLUM BLOSSOMS GALLERY 30 14 2521-2189 www.plumblossoms.com 1987 Plum Blossoms Gallery

WHERE G UEST B OOK 1 47


PLUM BLOSSOMS GALLERY 14/F, Cheung Tak Industrial Building, 30 Wong Chuk Hang Rd., Wong Chuk Hang, 2521-2189, www.plumblossoms.com. Since its founding in 1987, Plum Blossoms Gallery has been recognized for exhibitions of contemporary Asian art as well as an outstanding collection of museum-quality ancient textiles. SIN SIN FINE ART G/F, 52-54 Sai St., Central, 2858-5072, www.sinsin.com.hk. The gallery represents and promotes mainland and Southeast Asian artists and photographers, with a focus on Chinese, Indonesian and Thai works of art. SUNDARAM TAGORE GALLERY 57-59 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2581-9678, www.sundaramtagore.com. Focusing on the exchange between western and non-western art forms, the gallery recently hosted American portrait photographer Annie Leibovitz’s first exhibition in Asia. VOXFIRE GALLERY 1/F, 52 Gage St., Sheung Wan, 2581-3385, www.voxfiregallery.com. More than 110 years after a prominent Chinese revolutionary was “silenced” on the same site, Voxfire aims to put power of expression and the strength of voice back in the hands of the region’s emerging artists. WAN CHAI VISUAL ARCHIVE 5-9 Hing Wan St., Wan Chai, 2891-5900, www.visualarchive.hk. The Archive has previously hosted an installation that centered on Dutch artist Frank Havermans’s contemporary, sculptural, metallic take on Hong Kong roof shanties. WHITE CUBE 50 Connaught Rd. Central, 2592-2000, www.whitecube.com. One of the world’s top contemporary galleries opened its first non-UK outpost in Hong Kong in March of 2012. The gallery represents many members of the Young British Artists (YBA) movement, 148 W H E R E G U E ST B O OK

who are known for their shock factor, confrontational nature and use of disposable materials—for instance, Damien Hirst’s famous dead shark suspended in formaldehyde. YALLAY SPACE Unit 3C, Yally Building, 6 Yip Fat St., Wong Chuk Hang, 3575-9417, www.yallaygallery.net. Showcasing works from Asia and the Middle East, this 4,000-squarefoot industrial space is in fact the exhibition venue for two galleries: Rossi & Rossi Hong Kong and Yallay Gallery. Between the two galleries, Yallay Space regularly hosts some of the region’s most exciting contemporary works. ZEE STONE GALLERY G/F Chinachem Hollywood Centre, 1 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2810-5895, www.zeestone.com. Each of Zee Stone’s artists is decidedly contemporary, exploring the interplay between traditional eastern and western painting techniques.

ANTIQUES ALTFIELD GALLERY Shop 248-9, 2/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2537-6370, www.altfield.com.hk. The gallery deals in Southeast Asian sculpture and decorative arts, antique maps and topographical prints relating to Asia, and Chinese, Tibetan and Caucasian carpets. ARCH ANGEL ANTIQUES G/F, 53-55 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-6848. Arch Angel’s 5,400-square-foot, threestory gallery is filled with pieces ranging from the Neolithic period to the Qing dynasty. Items include terracotta, porcelain and furniture. ART TREASURES GALLERY G/F, 83B Hollywood Rd., Central, 2543-0430, www.art-treasures-gallery.com. With locations in Hong Kong and Macau, and a large warehouse in Zhuhai, Art Treasures is a respected dealer in classical

LIANG YI MUSEUM

SIN SIN FINE ART 52-54 www.sinsin.com.hk

Damien Hirst

2858-5072

YALLAY SPACE 6 3 C 3575-9417 www.yallaygallery.net 4,000 Rossi Rossi Hong Kong Yallay Gallery Yallay Space

SUNDARAM TAGORE GALLERY 57-59 2581-9678 www.sundaramtagore.com.

Annie Leibovitz

VOXFIRE GALLERY

ZEE STONE GALLERY

52 1 2581-3385 www.voxfiregallery.com Voxfire 110 Voxfire

1 2810-5895 www.zeestone.com

WAN CHAI VISUAL ARCHIVE 5-9 2891-5900 www.visualarchive.hk

ALTFIELD GALLERY 10 2 248-9 2537 6370 www.altfield.com.hk

Frank Havermans

WHITE CUBE 2592 2000

50 www.whitecube.com 2012

ARCH ANGEL ANTIQUES 3

53-55 2851-6848 Arch Angel

3

5,400


MUSEUMS & GALLERIES and provincial Chinese furniture from the Ming and Qing dynasties. C.Y. TSE ANTIQUES & COLLECTIBLES Shop 229, 2/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2525-6557. Proprietor C.Y. Tse sells mostly small- to medium-sized antique Chinese wood and glass artwork, and porcelain items, primarily from the Qing dynasty. Also visit their second branch at 63 Hollywood Road. DRAGON CULTURE 231 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2545-8098, www.dragonculture.com.hk. Dragon Culture specializes in dinosaur egg fossils, Han Dynasty terracotta, Tang sculptures and Ming porcelain figures. JOYCE GALLERY Shop 1, 123 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2545-1869, www.joycegallery.com. This gallery features bronzes and ancient sculptures from China in particular. In the two-story showroom, you’ll be able to find a collection of antiques dating back to the Tang dynasty, including ancient bronzes, stone carvings, gold and silver wares, jade, pottery, ceramics and Buddhist art. LAM & CO ANTIQUITIES 2/F, IZI Building, 151 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2543-8877. The Lam family's collections put a special emphasis on ceramics, and the owners pride themselves on knowing the stories behind what they sell.

LIANG YI MUSEUM 181-199 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2806-8280, www.liangyimuseum.com. Check out a range of Ming and Qing dynasty rare furniture as well as dainty European antiques at this refurbished four-story space on Hollywood Road. OI LING ANTIQUES 58 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2815-9422, www.oilingantiques.com. Collections of terracotta, stone and bronze pieces dating from the Neolithic era to the Ming dynasty. OLD SHANGHAI Room 1512, 15/F, Horizon Plaza, 2 Lee Wing St., Ap Lei Chau, 2517-3660. Old Shanghai is a leading wholesaler and retailer for classical Chinese furniture and folk arts. It specializes in collecting, restoring and reproducing antiques. SHAMBALA 2/F, Horizon Plaza, 2 Lee Wing St., Ap Lei Chau, 2555-2997, www.shambala.com.hk. Shambala has a wide array of collectibles dating back to the 14th century as well as Asian furniture from the early 20th century. WATTIS FINE ART 2/F, 20 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2524-5302, www.wattis.com.hk. Owner-collector Jonathan Wattis specializes in old maps, antique prints, photographs, paintings and books related to Hong Kong, Macau, Canton and the Pearl River, as well as Southeast Asia.

YALLAY SPACE

ART TREASURES GALLERY

LIANG YI MUSEUM

83 B 2543-0430 ww.art-treasures-gallery.com

181-199 2806-8280 www.liangyimuseum.com 4

C.Y.TSE ANTIQUES COLLECTIBLES

OI LING ANTIQUES

10

2 229

58 2815-9422 www.oilingantiques.com

2525-6557 C.Y. Tse

OLD SHANGHAI 63

DRAGON CULTURE

2 15 1512 Old Shanghai

2517-3660

231 2545-8098 www.dragonculture.com.hk

SHAMBALA

JOYCE GALLERY 123 1 2545-1869 www.joycegallery.com

2 2 2555-2997 www.shambala.com.hk Shambala 14 20

WATTIS FINE ART

LAM & CO ANTIQUITIES

20 2 2524-5302 www.wattis.com.hk Wattis Fine Art

151 IZI 2 2543-8877 www.lamantiquities.com

WHITE CUBE

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PARTING SHOT

Joy Ride AS A VISITOR TO THE CITY, SOMETIMES IT'S HARD TO GET PAST HONG KONG'S DENSELY PACKED BUILDINGS AND BUSTLING CROWDS. FEELING OVERWHELMED? HOP IN A CAB, AND HEAD TO THE FERRY PIER FOR THE OUTLYING ISLANDS. OR SOUTH BAY BEACH. OR TAI TAM RESERVOIR. IN HONG KONG, EVERYTHING IS JUST A TAXI RIDE AWAY. IT'S TOO EASY! -ADELE WONG, EDITOR

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