WHERE Hong Kong - June 2015

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Hong Kong

JUNE 2015 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO®

Beyond the Walls

ENJOY A FANCY CHINESE DINNER GET PAMPERED IN MACAU

A look inside Hong Kong’s walled villages

EXPLORE SHAU KEI WAN

WELCOME

歡迎

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BIENVENIDA

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BIENVENUE



where HONG KONG 06.2015 ®

THE GUIDE

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06 HOT DATES Hong Kong’s hottest concerts, shows and events

14 ESSENTIALS A quintessential Hong Kong experience

18 ART + CULTURE Top galleries and our pick of what’s happening

22 DINING Your A-Z of the best eats in town

30 DRINKS Our favorite places to sip cocktails

32 SHOPS + SERVICES From mega malls to local designers

40 NAVIGATE Fast facts and essential info

44 WALKING TOUR Explore a neighborhood on foot

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FEATURES 06 A FRENCH ACT Take a hit of bourgeoisie humor

46 GET INSPIRED Ideas for your itinerary

ON THE COVER

10 BEYOND THE WALLS Explore a walled village

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32 IT’S ALL ELEMENTARY Stop and shop at Elements mall

Contrary to popular belief, it’s not all skyscrapers in Hong Kong. Visit an ancient walled village in the New Territories to see how local clans live today! Go to p.10.

wheretraveler.com The website from the editors of Where Magazine. Get all the latest city buzz from our experts—info only the locals know.

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where

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What happened at the Pinewood Battery? *

MAGA Z INE

On the web: www.wherehongkong.com HK MAGAZINE MEDIA GROUP HK | EDITORIAL EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Luisa Tam EDITOR Adele Wong STAFF WRITERS Evelyn Lok, Charlotte Mulliner CONTRIBUTOR Dan Creffield

HK | ADVERTISING & CIRCULATION DIRECTOR OF SALES Gary Wong STRATEGIC SALES DIRECTOR Jan Cheng SENIOR SALES MANAGER Joyce Wu SENIOR ADVERTISING MANAGER Kent Ma ADVERTISING MANAGER Dominic Lucien Brettell ADVERTISING EXECUTIVE Bonita Yung, Celia Wong, Lamy Lam ADVERTISING COORDINATOR Yan Man IT SYSTEMS MANAGER Derek Wong

HK | PRODUCTION PRODUCTION MANAGER Blackie Hui ART DIRECTOR Pierre Pang SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER Mike Hung GRAPHIC DESIGNER Ryan Chan

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS HK | EXECUTIVE PRESIDENT Donna W. Kessler VICE PRESIDENT OF OPERATIONS Angela E. Allen CHIEF TRAVEL EDITOR Geoff Kohl GENERAL MANAGER, WHERE MAPS Christopher Huber DIRECTOR OF CIRCULATION Scott Ferguson NATIONAL MARKETING MANAGER Melissa Blanco

MVP | NATIONAL SALES VICE PRESIDENT, NATIONAL SALES Rick Mollineaux DIRECTOR OF PARTNERSHIPS & NATIONAL DIGITAL SALES Bridget Duffie NATIONAL SALES COORDINATOR David Gately

MORRIS COMUNICATIONS CHAIRMAN & CEO William S. Morris III PRESIDENT William S. Morris IV

MVP | CREATIVE CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER Haines Wilkerson SENIOR REGIONAL EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Margaret Martin DESIGN DIRECTOR Jane Frey PHOTOGRAPHY DIRECTOR Susan Strayer CREATIVE COORDINATOR Beverly Mandelblatt

*Learn about this and other fascinating facts in

Historical Hong Kong Hikes A guide to 15 remarkable treks, detailing the rich history of the SAR’s peaks, valleys and urban neighborhoods

MVP | MANUFACTURING & TECHNOLOGY DIRECTOR OF MANUFACTURING Donald Horton

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Before you decide to purchase or use the products and/or services that our magazine introduces, you should gather further information about the same in addition to the representations or advertising contents in our magazine. *The contents in articles by guest authors are the author’s personal views only and do not represent the position of our magazine or our company. Please gather further information about the products and/ or services before you decide to purchase or use the same.*

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HOT DATES HONG KONG By Evelyn Lok

THROUGH JUNE 30 May, Oui The annual Hong Kong-based Francophile festival Le French May continues this month, bringing over 120 acts, exhibitions, films, and a host of foodie promotions to Hong Kong. This year, it celebrates the 500th anniversary of the reign of Francis I, who established the architectural and artistic style of the French renaissance. Don’t miss Molière’s classic satire, “The Bourgeois Gentleman,” performed in French with English and Chinese surtitles. Various events. Check full program at www.frenchmay.com.

FROM JUNE 19

We Just Want Some Drama The annual Chinese Opera Festival hits Hong Kong once again this June. Celebrating the traditional craft of Peking and Kunqu opera forms, the festival opens with a staging of three Shanghai-style plays to introduce the lesser-known Shanghai Peking Opera, which is appreciated for a much more demanding standard of acting and rhythm. Other shows to look forward to include an introduction to Hunan-style Qi Opera, known for its acrobatic feats; and Dacheng opera stories, characterized by bouts of fire eating and spitting! Various programs. See www.cof.gov.hk for more details.

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HOT DATES JUNE 12-14

Gone Girl

Returning after its successful tour performance in New York last March, the HK Dance Company is bringing “The Legend of Mulan” back to the Hong Kong stage. Originating from the 5th Century, the classic folktale is all about a courageous peasant girl who disguised herself as a man to go into war in her ailing father’s place. Jun 12-14, 7:45pm; 13-14, 3pm. Grand Theatre, Cultural Centre, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. $100-320 from www.urbtix.hk.

FROM JUNE 5 JUNE 12-20

A High-Key Performance Beijing-born pianist Yuja Wang returns to share her electrifying talent with the HK Philharmonic. Wang will be playing different programs for each evening. Starting with nationalistic odes from Beethoven and Mozart on the first concert, Wang then shows off a fiery Russian program on the second night, before ending on a powerful, emotive note from Brahms, Debussy, and Ravel. Jun 12-13, 16, 19-20, 8pm. Concert Hall, Cultural Centre, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. $120-680 from www.urbtix.hk.

Everybody Dance Now The Leisure and Cultural Services Department once again presents a new series of multimedia dance arts this summer. This season begins with “Encoded” from Australia’s Stalker Theatre Company, an aerial dance performance presented against a starry backdrop. To follow in mid-June: an abstract theatrical dance production called “Refugees of the Septic Heart” by the UK’s Tom Dale Company. The series concludes with a heart-thumping crossgenre production by iLuminate, secondrunners-up at America’s Got Talent 2011, who will perform in fully lit-up costumes. From Jun 5. Various dates and times; see www.lcsd.gov.hk/CE/CulturalService for more details.

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SUITS AND THE

CITY

Hong Kong’s tailor of choice revealed by Rick Gangwani

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ong Kong has a reputation of being a city that has something for everyone. Indeed, with money in your pocket there’s no better place on earth to go shopping. Given a free choice, many would go for electronics or a designer handbag, but if you ask any visiting politician or business leader to pick just one product, then they’re sure to go for a custom-made suit. The reason is obvious. Simply put: as far as bespoke clothing goes, there’s really no better place. As every well-heeled traveler knows, Hong Kong is the world’s tailoring capital, and many of the elite buy their threads here. Former US President Bill Clinton and tennis icon Venus Williams are among the endless list of celebrity names to have had a suit specially made. But given the fact that there are more than 250 fitters in town touting for your business it’s really important to differentiate between the true master craftsman and a backstreet imitator. At one time, spotting the difference was an art form in itself, but no longer. Now you

need to look no further than La Elite Fashions, which has been widely regarded as Hong Kong’s leading custom clothier. Started in 1983 as a single-fitter outlet, the company today is practically an institution, with more than 100,000 regular clients – including CEOs, heads of state and professional athletes. The Tourism Board-approved tailor has built up its unrivalled reputation by offering high quality but surprisingly affordable men’s and women’s apparel, including suits, shirts, slacks, jackets and dresses, as well as one-off special items. Owner Danny Hussain admits the rise to the top has by no means been easy. “It’s only through hard work and providing our customers with a quality service that we’ve managed to build our brand into what it is today,” he insists. One area where La Elite particularly scores is in value-added services, such as providing its clients with complimentary transportation from their hotels for fittings, after which finished clothing can be picked up or delivered free of charge within 24 hours. The company also guarantees its work,


Sponsored Feature

and in most cases will offer free alterations for up to ten years after purchase. It will also keep your measurements on file, so you can easily reorder garments and have them delivered to you, wherever in the world you are. General suit prices at La Elite start as low as HK$1,600, while the most popular selections come from the store’s Ermengildo Zegna line. Thanks to a special relationship with the supplier, La Elite can offer some of the lowest prices for the material, with the average suit likely to set you back just $3,880 – a steal, when you consider that Zegna’s off-the-rack varieties usually retail for no less than $15,000. But it’s definitely worth personally checking out all the fabrics available – with around 10,000 imported varieties, including from high-end labels such as Dormeuil and Loro Piana, you’re bound to find something perfect for you. One thing is for sure – while Hong Kong can be a shopper’s paradise, you’ll be hard-pressed to find a better bargain than a beautiful and affordable bespoke suit.

Address: Ground Floor, 1E Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong. (Opposite the Holiday Inn Golden Mile Hotel’s Mody Road entrance MTR EXIT: N5) Telephone: 2368-0040, 2723-0056 Email: laelite@netvigator.com


BEYOND WALLS THE

TAKE A TRIP BACK IN TIME TO HONG KONG’S WALLED VILLAGES. By Charlotte Mulliner and Yannie Chan

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efore Hong Kong became the buzzing, modern metropolis it is today, much of the population lived in rural, bricked-in settlements known as walled villages. Some of these enclaves still exist in the region’s New Territories, in northerly areas such as Tai Po and Yuen Long. Although these communities have evolved in the past 800-odd years, you’ll still be able to see a more traditional way of life inside these walls and meet families who’ve preserved their lives here for generations.

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A VILLAGE IS BORN Like much of Hong Kong’s roots, you can date the walled villages, or wai, back to China’s Song Dynasty (1127-1279), when waves of Chinese—both Hakka and Punti clans— fled fighting in Guangdong and found themselves in what is now northern Hong Kong. These rival clans constructed walls around their communities to protect themselves from infighting and piracy. A wai was a pretty uniform set-up: a symmetrical design of four walls, with a watchtower at each corner, a guarded entrance gate and a moat. Houses filled the inside courtyard in narrow rows, with an ancestral hall—the village focal point— as the centerpiece.


On The Trail The Tang clan quickly branched out from Kam Tin, with descendants building 11 villages—five of which were walled—in the area of Lung Yeuk Tau (“Mountain of the Leaping Dragon”), in Hong Kong’s northerly Fanling area. You’ll find that this area has retained much of its traditional village identity as well as its buildings, with clan members gathering regularly to celebrate festivals and organizing communal activities. The Lung Yeuk Tau Heritage Trail is a 2-kilometer walking route through some of the oldest remaining Tang villages and monuments, beginning with the Taoist temple Fung Ying Seen Moon and finishing at the Tang Chung Ling Ancestral Hall. One of the oldest sights along the way is Lo Wai—one of the first Tang villages—with its prominent gateway and entrance tower. A large portion of the walls are original and, although they protect a central ancestral hall and inner dwellings, they’re blocked to the public to protect the villagers’ privacy. The route will give you a real insight into traditional walled village life.

What’s in a Name The Tang clan were some of the first Chinese settlers to the area of Kam Tin in the early 14th century, and many of the walled villages you can see today are still inhabited by their ancestors. Kat Hing Wai is one of the largest—and best preserved—of the Tang villages, with some 17th-century Qing Dynasty structures still standing. The green-brick design covers some 8,500 square meters in a nearperfect square, with a watchtower at each corner, an entrance gate to the west and a shrine on the east wall. Attached to each wall and then moving inwards in neat rows of six, are small houses. Some of these dwellings have since been modernized, but when you wander inside it will really feel like you’ve stepped back in time some 400 years. There’s an interesting tale behind the village’s wrought-iron gates: they were seized by the British army as booty during the 1899 occupation of the New Territories and stored in the Irish residence of Sir Henry Blake, the then-governor of Hong Kong. It took decades and the petitioning of Tang clan member Tang Pak-kau to get the gates returned decades later—they still guard the village today.

The people of Chung Uk Tsuen (see next page)

Lo Wai Photo courtesy of the Antiquities and Monument Office J U N E 2 015 I W HERE H ONG KO N G 11


Word on the Street

IN KEEPING WITH TRADITION Although life in the village is evolving rapidly, there are many centuries-old traditions which have been handed down through the generations. One of the oldest is the Lantern-Lighting Festival, a celebration on the 15th day of the first lunar month for newborn boys: lanterns are lit in the ancestral hall for each boy who will carry on the clan surname. It’s a public display of male dominance and strength of the village, from which women are usually excluded. Other celebrations include Ching Ming Festival in the spring— which is also known as Tomb Sweeping Day, after the tradition of tending to family graves on this day; and the autumnal Chung Yeung Festival, also called the Double Ninth Festival, when you’ll see people burning paper offerings in the street as gifts for the departed. In walled villages such as those of Lung Yeuk Tau, Chung Yeung will see the Tang clan make a pilgrimage to their kin village in Dongguan, Guangdong, to pay their respects. For festivities such as Chinese New Year, walled villages are known to gather around for poon choi, a big “basin meal” that’s filled high with delicately flavored layers of meat, seafood and vegetables. If you time your visit right, you may have the privilege of seeing one of these festivals in action—and you could even try your own poon choi!

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There are just a few indigenous villagers left who speak a dialect, as most have converted to Cantonese. In Chung Uk Tsuen, a Chung clan village in the Lam Tsuen Valley, Tai Po, it’s just the older generation who still speak the Weitou dialect at home. Chung Yung-kwai, 84, believes the language will die with him: “The first language I learned was the Weitou dialect. When I later went to the city to work, I learned Cantonese. The next generation spoke Cantonese as their first language. The Weitou dialect is very similar to Cantonese anyway. We don’t teach our children the Weitou dialect. My grandchildren are fluent in English. There’s no need for them to learn my dialect. I don’t feel sad about it.” Fellow villager Cliff Chung records Weitou phrases online (www.chunguktsuen.com) in the hope that the language can survive. “My family has been here for more than 700 years. I have no problem understanding the Weitou dialect but I have trouble speaking it,” Cliff admitted. “Whenever I hear and speak Weitou, I remember my grandmother. To be honest, I think the younger generation is simply not aware of the dialect. Only several village elders still speak it,” he added. “I began a website and posted some Weitou phrases, hoping that would get people to share and learn the dialect online. After one more generation, I’m sure the Weitou dialect will become extinct.”

Money, Money, Money The key element to any wai is the ancestral hall: not only is it a sacred spot for worshipping ancestors, but it doubles up as a study hall for the young, a venue for discussing any village business and nowadays, a spot for social gatherings. Each walled village would have had an ancestral hall—the more money the villagers had, the more elaborate the hall. Liu Man Shek Tong Ancestral Hall in Sheung Shui Wai is a majestic, embellished example of an ancestral hall—being built by the rich Liu clan in 1751 after its members settled here from China’s Fujian province in the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) and made their fortune. It keeps with the typical three-hall, two-courtyard structure of an ancestral hall, but you’ll find that the building is generously decorated with plaster moldings, detailed wood carvings and auspicious murals. It has been restored twice since then to retain its flourish. Sheung Shui Wai is also one of the few villages with its existing moat, which was built in 1646.


FAST FACTS These are the “god guardians� of the village, who are said to repel evil spirits and bad luck.

Signs wish you peace as you enter and leave the village. Incense sticks are lit along the walls of the village.

Old Hakka village women cluster round the gates in traditional fringed bamboo hats and tunics.

Tips To learn more about the history of walled villages, pay a visit to the Sam Tung Uk Musuem, a 200-year-old Hakka walled village that has been restored to resemble the original layout and contains historical information and displays. 2 Kwu Uk Lane, Tsuen Wan, 2411-2001, www.heritagemuseum.gov.hk.

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ESSENTIALS | The Guide

A NEWBIE’S GUIDE TO HK Where to find the best souvenirs. By Adele Wong

Propaganda Posters Want something exotic to fill your walls? Consider forking out for a colorful Chinese propaganda poster—a relic from the days of Mao Zedong. Go to: Picture This Gallery, 13/F, 9 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2525-2820.

Chinese Chops Chinese seals, commonly referred to as chops or stamps, are small carved stone blocks used by individuals and companies either in lieu of or in conjuction with actual signatures on paper documents. Get your own tailorcarved design for the ultimate souvenir. Go to: Man Wah Lane, Sheung Wan.

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ESSENTIALS

Cooking Equipment If you’ve ever tried to fry your own rice—or any other Chinese dish—you’d know that it just isn’t the same without a wok. And if you want to try your hand at steaming—well, nothing quite beats the authenticity of the bamboo steamer. Remember to pick up these items before you go! Go to: Shanghai Street, Yau Ma Tei.

Calligraphy Brushes Want to write Chinese characters like a pro? All you need are a set of Chinese calligraphy brushes, some xuan paper, black ink and a stone ink slab. Oh, and a few Chinese characters under your belt wouldn’t hurt. Go to: Man Luen Choon, 2/F, Harvest Building, 29-35 Wing Kut St., Central, 2544-6965.

Chinese Tea Move aside, coffee. The Chinese are all about their teas. Chrysanthemum, oolong and pu-erh are especially popular varieties. Go to: Ming Cha, various locations including Commercial Press, Shops B1007-1010, B1/F, Miramar Shopping Centre, 132 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui.

Cantonese Tableware Have you been inspired by all the Cantonese meals you’ve enjoyed this trip? Why not try to replicate the experience back home, with your own beautiful set of chopsticks, rice bowls, teacups and everything in between.

Experience This Tai Chi Learn the wisdom of Tai Chi— a slow-moving, fluid type of martial art—by going to a public park early in the morning to watch seniors and enthusiasts alike at practice, or by taking a class with a tai chi master. Call Pandora at 9415-5678 or William at 9551-6928 for group or private lessons; both instructors are recommended by the Hong Kong Tourism Board. Prices start at $50 per class.

Go to: Loveramics, 95 Leighton Rd., Causeway Bay, 2915-8018. J U N E 2 015 I W HERE H ONG KO N G 15

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A series of stories, recommendations and tips on Hong Kong from people in the know. Explore our city based on the travel experiences that interest you and get itineraries for off-the-beaten-path neighborhoods.

7UDGLWLRQV DQG 6SLULWXDOLW\ It won’t take you long to spot manifestations of Hong Kong’s deeply spiritual nature. You’ll find places of worship quietly nestled down busy streets; shop fronts adorned with offerings to the gods to ensure good luck and fortune; and worshippers burning paper offerings and joss sticks on the side of the road. Although the city is underpinned by some of these spiritual traditions, it’s also a multicultural home to Buddhists, Taoists, Confucians, Muslims, Catholics and more besides.

6SRWOLJKW RQ :RQJ 7DL 6LQ Spiritual, hard-working and proud of their district: these characteristics are indicative of the spirit of the 400,000 people that congregate in Wong Tai Sin. As much as six percent of Hong Kong’s population lives in this area, which is backed by mountains to the north, dominated by residential estates and punctuated by sprawling spiritual oases.

0DULWLPH :RUVKLSSHUV Hong Kong’s important relationship with its harbor is evident in the sheer number of temples devoted to Tin Hau, the goddess of the sea. Fishermen and sailors throughout the centuries have worshipped her for protection in temples right on the waterfront. The oldest and largest of these is Tin Hau Temple in Joss House Bay, Sai Kung, which was built in 1266 and is now a Grade I historical building.

7HPSOH 7LPH The Chinese culture is rooted in superstitions and you’ll often see these acted out in daily life. During the annual Ching Ming Festival or on the anniversary of a relative’s death, people will burn offerings over a small fire to “send” to their loved ones in the afterlife and bestow blessings on the living. Many of these ancient beliefs are tied to Chinese New Year, when locals flock to temples looking for good fortune.

5HOLJLRXV 2IIHULQJV As a multicultural city with a tapestried history, there are numerous places of worship for other religions around Hong Kong. St. Paul’s Church in Central is a prominent Anglican church that was established in 1911. Not much further away is the Jamia Mosque, which can be reached by a quick journey on the Central-Mid-Levels Escalator. Built in 1849 in a traditional Islamic style, it was then renovated and expanded in 1915. For more insider info on Hong Kong, head to www.DiscoverHongKong.com/InsidersGuide

6SLULWXDO +DYHQV Spanning some 18,000 square meters, Sik Sik Yuen Wong Tai Sin Temple is one of the major attractions in Hong Kong and worshippers flock here for a practice called kau cim—the shaking of bamboo fortune sticks. Another spiritual haven is the Chi Lin Nunnery, a graceful Buddhist nunnery and the largest building in the world to be constructed entirely without nails. A short walk away lies the Nan Lian Garden, where lots of valuable trees and rocks make it a great place for photo buffs.

=HQ (VFDSHV Escape up into the mountains to the north of Wong Tai Sin and you’ll experience a different kind of Zen. The Lion Rock Country Park is where you can try to spot the monumental Lion Rock—a well-known landmark that, thanks to the rock formation

at the top, bears an uncanny resemblance to a lion. Some of Hong Kong’s best-loved trails, including major hiking routes such as the MacLehose Trail and Wilson Trail pass through these uplands.

*XDQJGRQJ )ODYRUV As Wong Tai Sin is home to a large number of refugees from mainland China who moved to Hong Kong in the late 1940s, Guangdong cuisine is very widespread here. A common sight in public housing estates is the “mushroom pavilion”—a cooked food stall with a pointed roof, serving tasty homestyle comforts. Apart from Guangdong delicacies, you can also find some of the city’s hottest Sichuan cuisine here. Head online to www.DiscoverHongKong. com/InsidersGuide to create your personalized itinerary for Wong Tai Sin.

Get insights and tips on your tablet from Hong Kong Insider’s Guide


where

the guide Good Things Come in Twos Traveling with a friend or loved one? Book yourselves into The Spa at Mandarin Oriental Macau to take advantage of its “Bring A Friend” promotion in celebration of the hotel’s fifth anniversary. Throughout June, two people can enjoy a 110-minute-long signature spa therapy for a total price of MOP 1,700 (weekday) or MOP 1,850 (weekend). Indulge in a full body massage that uses fragrant essential oils mixed according to traditional Chinese medicine theory. Different blends will be developed for each guest to suit their body’s needs. The Spa at Mandarin Oriental Macau, Avenida Dr. Sun Yat Sen, NAPE, Macau, (853) 8805-8814.

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ART+CULTURE | The Guide © Kim Joon

A Delicate State Three earth-shattering exhibitions. By Evelyn Lok

Royal China The Manufacture Nationale de Sèvres is a legendary porcelain workshop, founded more than three centuries ago. “Sèvres: Porcelain of the Kings” displays more than 120 porcelain pieces from the factory’s collection. You’ll see remarkable craftsmanship in each and every piece, whether it was made in 1738 or last month. Jun 10-Aug 16. Hong Kong University Museum and Art Gallery, University of Hong Kong, 90 Bonham Rd., Pok Fu Lam. Free.

A Fragment of Imagination One of Korea’s latest breakthrough artists, Kim Joon, is exhibiting a set of digital prints of clusters of porcelain human sculptures and fragments—human shapes tattooed with blue and white patterns. Meditating on the themes of desire, memory, fragility and obsession, the Seoul-based artist puts together his works completely through digital rendering. Through Jun 28. Sundaram Tagore, 57-59 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2581-9678.

Home is Where the Art Is Simon Lee Gallery’s latest group show “Homeland” looks at how works by five British artists can be taken as modern day interpretations of historical painting. From Toby Ziegler’s paintings on aluminum composed through digital means to Dexter Dalwood’s collages investigating cultural and imagined history, each work can be seen to manipulate historical images. Through Jun 27. Simon Lee Gallery, Unit 304, 3/F, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2801-6252. Toby Ziegler, “Filth pharmacy,” 2014

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You’ll find some of the best art and antiques galleries in town along Hong Kong Island’s Hollywood Road.

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ART+CULTURE

Above Second

ART GALLERIES 3812 CONTEMPORARY ART PROJECTS — This Asian Art gallery was founded in 2010 under interesting circumstances: its name 3812 refers to the 3,812 meters above sea level where the founders skied down the Vallée Blanche slopes of Chamonix—likening the experience to a swift brushstroke of an artist. With over 7,000 square feet of space, it houses regular exhibitions by Chinese contemporary artists, from calligrapher/painter Chen Guangwu to eastern and western influenced Chloe Ho. 10/F, 12 Wong Chuk Hang Rd., Wong Chuk Hang, 2153-3812. A-LIFT GALLERY — Championing local Hong Kong artists, A-Lift Gallery is one of the rarer, noteworthy galleries still located in Fo Tan that helps foster young and emerging artists in their research, experimentation and art. It often steers away from the major local art fairs and instead tends to make more appearances at events abroad to allow outreach for the next generation of Hong Kong artists. Unit 804 & 1003, Block A, Wah Luen Industrial Centre, 1521 Wong Chuk Yeung St., Fo Tan, 2690-3038. ABOVE SECOND — Open since 2010, Above Second adds a slice of urban attitude to the city’s vibrant art scene by showing work from art schools or the streets. With a non-stop lineup of international artists in residence, you’ll see everything from graffiti to graphic design, pop culture to street art here. 9 First St., Sai Ying Pun, 3483-7950.

slant, and uses elements of pop, propaganda, illustration and cartoon as vehicles for expression. The gallery has since relocated to Wellington Street, and the original Queen’s Road Central space remains as the office. It also has a branch in Vancouver. G/F, 129-133 Wellington St., Central, 2526-0818. ART EXPERIENCE GALLERY — Art Experience Gallery focuses mainly on showing emerging young artists, providing a platform for them to have greater exposure in the region. Out of more than a dozen represented artists, Art Experience shows works by Chinese carpet artist Na Wei, who investigates perception by disrupting the audience’s sensory experiences, and Shanghai-based monochrome painter Ge Hui. Room 2009, Cable TV Tower, 9 Hoi Shing Rd., Tsuen Wan, 2110-9928. AXEL VERVOORDT GALLERY — Initially dedicated to representing artists working in the Zero and Gutai art movements of the 20th century, the Antwerp-based Axel Vervoordt Gallery opened its first Asian outpost in Hong Kong in 2014. The gallery aims to further its artistic dialogue between the East and West, and has grown to work with a wider selection of contemporary artists who investigate themes of the void, space and time. Unit D, 15/F, Entertainment Building, 30 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2503-2220/2503-2331.

ARCH ANGEL ART GALLERY — Arch Angel Art Gallery features a collection of contemporary Vietnamese and Southeast Asian paintings acquired directly from the artists. Some of the paintings are from founder Koos Groot’s private collection. Shop C, LG/F, 53-55 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-6882.

ÉDOUARD MALINGUE GALLERY — French art dealer Édouard Malingue’s gallery opened in 2010 with an exhibition of Picasso’s works. Flash forward five years, it has moved to a larger and brighter space on Des Voeux Road Central. EM mainly shows a wide range of international contemporary art, but also represents several Hong Kong-based artists such as Ko Sin Tung and João Vasco Paiva. 6/F, 33 Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2810-0317.

ART BEATUS GALLERY — Established in the early 1990s, Art Beatus features mainly original paintings and art by contemporary Chinese artists. Most of its collection has a retro

ERARTA GALLERY — Opened in November 2014, Erarta gallery Hong Kong is the fifth branch of the global purveyor of Russian contemporary arts, and the first branch of the gallery group in

Asia. Its massive two-story, 300-square-metre space provides ample opportunity to showcase the more than 150 represented artists from across 30 regions of Russia. 159 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2685-5199. GALERIE KOO — Founded in 2012, Galerie Koo focuses on contemporary art that’s all about beauty and color, and represents established and rising star artists from across Europe and Asia. 7/F, Vogue Building, 67 Wyndham St., Central, 2525-0331. GALERIE DU MONDE — Established in 1974, Galerie du Monde is one of the oldest galleries in Hong Kong. It specializes in modern and contemporary works by Chinese artists. The gallery is also a champion of up-and-coming talent, known for innovative exhibits that cross mediums: from sculpture to photography, paper media to canvas. Room 108, 1/F, Ruttonjee Centre, 11 Duddell St., Central, 2525-0529. HANART TZ GALLERY — One of the oldest galleries in Hong Kong, Hanart TZ celebrated its 30th anniversary in 2014 with a string of exhibitions by leading contemporary Chinese artists. As specialists in the genre, Hanart has exhibited works in oil, ink, print, sculpture, photography and video by internationally recognized mainland, Taiwanese and Hong Kong artists. Room 407, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2526-9019. KARIN WEBER GALLERY — The gallery organizes exhibitions of established and rising international artists. In its beginnings, KW gave regular spotlight to artists from Burma, but recently the gallery’s repertoire ranges from local to east Asian artists. It carries a comprehensive selection of works in oil, acrylic, watercolor, pastels, gouache, ink on paper and mixed media. G/F, 20 Aberdeen St., Central, 2544-5004. LA GALERIE — Opened in winter 2014, La Galerie was founded by two avid lovers of art photography, Cyril Delettre and MarieFlorence Gros. The gallery focuses on JUNE

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ART+CULTURE | The Guide

Liang Yi Museum

bringing high-quality art photography to Hong Kong. Its first two exhibitions saw the works of French photographer Vincent Fournier and prints and photographs of Picasso adorn its walls. G/F, 74 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2540-4777. PEKIN FINE ARTS — Established by long-time China resident and art curator Meg Maggio, Pekin Fine Arts added a Hong Kong gallery space in 2012. Artists represented by the art space are often also collected by major galleries and museums across the globe, such as Martin Parr, Zhang Dali, and Hong Kong’s own Tsang Kin-wah. 16/F, Union Industrial Building, 48 Wong Chuk Hang Rd., Wong Chuk Hang, 2177-6190. PICTURE THIS GALLERY — The city’s largest affordable art gallery specializes in fine art photography, vintage and contemporary posters, antiquarian maps, and early photographs of Hong Kong and China. 1308, 13/F, 9 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2525-2820. SIMON LEE GALLERY — Hong Kong’s outpost of the reputable London gallery opened its doors in 2012. The gallery focuses on internationally acclaimed artists who explore conceptual themes through a range of mediums, from photography to sculpture to works on canvas. 304, 3/F, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2801-6252. SIN SIN FINE ART — One of the longstanding galleries in Hong Kong, named after its founding director Sin Sin Man. The gallery represents and promotes Chinese and Southeast Asian artists and photographers, with a focus on Chinese, Indonesian and Thai works of art. It has two locations right across the street from each other on Sai Street. G/F, 53-54 Sai St., Sheung Wan, 2858-5072. THE CAT STREET GALLERY — Showcasing contemporary and modern art in a variety of mediums, Cat Street exhibits emerging and established artists from around the 20 WH E R E HO N G K O N G I J U N E 2 015

world. Recently it added greater focus on young emerging artists from the city, exhibiting edgy drawings and paintings from artists such as Vanessa Wong and Bosco Law. 222 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2291-0006.

MUSEUMS FLAGSTAFF HOUSE MUSEUM OF TEAWARE — Located in Flagstaff House, the oldest surviving colonial building in the territory, and once the home of the commander-in-chief of British forces in Hong Kong, the museum houses a prized Asian teaware collection. It’s also home to Lock Cha Tea House, which serves myriad varieties of tea and delicate vegetarian dim sum in a cute Chinese-style setting. Hong Kong Park, 10 Cotton Tree Dr., Central, 2869-0690. HONG KONG FILM ARCHIVE — A repository of all things related to Hong Kong films, the Archive contains lots of movies, conservation labs, a resource center, exhibition hall and cinema. Closed Thursdays. 1/F, 50 Lei King Rd., Sai Wan Ho, 2739-2139. HONG KONG MARITIME MUSEUM — This museum holds semi-permanent and special exhibitions tracing Hong Kong’s growth into a major world port, and the contributions made by China and the west to the development of ships, maritime exploration, trade and naval warfare. Central Ferry Pier No. 8, Man Kwong St., Central, 3713-2500. HONG KONG MUSEUM OF ART — One of the city’s largest museums houses fine examples of ancient Chinese art from the Han to the Qing dynasties. The exhibition galleries regularly showcase contemporary and international works. Closed Thursdays. 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2724-9042. HONG KONG MUSEUM OF HISTORY — This fascinating museum explores 6,000 years of Hong Kong history, from the Neolithic to the

post-war period, with recreations of prehistoric scenes and the early colonial era. But it’s the reconstruction of a post-war street, complete with tram and traveling Chinese opera company, that really grabs the attention. Closed Tuesdays, except public holidays. 100 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2724-9042. LIANG YI MUSEUM — Liang Yi is dedicated to promoting Chinese antique arts: you’ll find over 300 pieces of treasured furniture, ceramics and knickknacks here—they’re some of the best examples from the Ming and Qing dynasties that still remain. Catch Liang Yi’s distinguished lectures held on every first Tuesday of the month. Closed Sundays, Mondays, and public holidays. Admission costs $200. 181-199 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2806-8280.

ANTIQUES ARCH ANGEL ANTIQUES — The three-story shop houses large collections of Qing dynasty porcelain and restored 16th- to 18th-century Chinese furniture. Rare and authentic stone and bronze sculptures and buddhas, and terracotta sculptures from China and Southeastern Asia are found in the viewing galleries, plus there are over 200 paintings in the extensive ancestral scroll collection. Shop A, G/F, 53-55 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-6848. LAM & CO ANTIQUES — An impressive collection of fine Chinese antiquities which ranges from the Neolithic period to the Qing dynasty and includes bronze, gold and silverware, pottery and porcelain. This shop is well-known by collectors, galleries and auction dealers worldwide and offers repair, restoration, authentication and shipping services. 2/F, 151 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2543-8877. OI LING ANTIQUES — Oi Ling’s Hollywood Road showroom houses a large collection of furniture from the 17th and 18th centuries, as well as authenticated pottery items dating as far back as the Neolithic era. 58 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2964-0554.


Painted Pottery Fat Lady Figure Tang Dynasty

early pottery ceramics sculptures authenticated museum and collector quality


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DINING | The Guide

Class Act

Splash out at these posh Chinese restaurants. By Adele Wong

Ocean View It’s dining with a view at sky-high Nanhai No. 1, where the emphasis is on seafood from the South China Sea. Jellyfish, conch, squid, abalone, lobster and all sorts of exotic marine delicacies can be had, and you enjoy your meal either in the glam communal dining area or in a stylish private room for a bit more intimacy. 30/F, iSquare, 63 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2487-3688.

Fit for a King Don’t be intimidated by the name Tycoon Tann—you don’t need to be a property mogul

That Tang You Do Sir David Tang’s latest restaurant venture, China Tang, is more of the same: classy Chinese dishes in a classy setting. You’ll notice a bit of a western twist in some of the dishes: pork dumplings would be topped with caviar, and steamed soup dumplings called xiao long bao would be filled with lobster bisque. Shop 411-413, 4/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2522-2148. 22 WH E R E HO N G K O N G I J U N E 2 015

to chow down at this brand-new three-story venue with a sleek bar on the ground floor. Do be prepared to splurge though for the likes of mangalica barbecued pork slices (char siu); perfectly browned crispy chicken, and lavish seafood dishes like braised abalone in oyster sauce. Enjoy your meal while admiring the funky tongue-in-cheek paintings of historical Chinese figures (represented by cows) on the walls. G-2/F, 74 Wellington St., Central, 3125-3228.


DINING

A Sticky Situation Celebrate Tuen Ng Festival with a tasty zong. By Adele Wong With dragon boat season just around ther corner (see p.50), it’s time to indulge in some zong—or tasty glutinous rice dumplings wrapped in bamboo leaf. From now until June 20, Yat Tung Heen is offering two savory varieties: abalone and conpoy ($158/piece); pork, mushroom and beans ($68/piece). For sweet tooths, there will also be a honey, ginger and citrus dumpling ($58/piece) available. Customers can order in advance and pick up the dumplings directly from the restaurant. The dumplings are precooked, although you would need to reheat them for maximum enjoyment.

Seventh Heaven It’s all about fish maw, fresh seafood and extravagant showstoppers like stuffed baked crab shell and lotus leaf rice at Seventh Son in Wan Chai. The restaurant sticks to the classics, focusing more on execution rather than innovative presentation or ingredients.

2/F, Great Eagle Centre, 23 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2878-1212. Eaton Hotel, B2/F, 380 Nathan Rd., Jordan, 2710-1093.

4-6/F, Kwan Chart Tower, 6 Tonnochy Rd., Wan Chai, 2892-2888.

The Mottley Crew At swank basement venue Mott 32, you can indulge in applewood-roasted Peking duck, whole suckling pig, Kurobuta pork dumplings or deep-fried salted pepper frogs’ legs to your heart’s content—but do remember to bring a few friends to help finish everything. You’ll feel cooler just sitting at the table at this dark and handsome establishment. B/F, Standard Chartered Bank Building, 4-4A Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2885-8688.

ABERDEEN STREET SOCIAL — British $$$$ Michelin-starred chef Jason Atherton and entrepreneur Yenn Wong collaborate for the third time to launch Aberdeen Street Social, bringing their take on modern British cuisine to the hipsters of Hong Kong. G/F, JPC Building, PMQ, 35 Aberdeen St., Central, 2866-0300. AMBER — French $$$$ Chef Richard Ekkebus and his team create classic French dishes that are given an innovative twist. This restaurant is consistently included in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. 7/F, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Rd., Central, 2132-0066. AN NAM — Vietnamese $$ An Nam serves Vietnamese-style dishes in an exquisitely designed setting. Diners can savor fresh seafood and roast meats as well as traditional delicacies from the region of Hue. 4/F, Lee Gardens One, 33 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, 2787-3922.

BEEF & LIBERTY — American $$ Dig into gourmet burgers and sweet potato fries at this posh diner. Remember to save room for the cookie skillet dessert at the end of your meal. 2/F, Star St. Precinct, 23 Wing Fung St., Wan Chai, 2811-3009. BEP VIETNAMESE KITCHEN — Vietnamese $$ Leave it to the Nha Trang group to come up with another rock-solid Vietnamese concept-this time, one that specializes in jazzed-up versions of casual snacks and dishes one would find on the streets of Saigon. Pho is on the menu at Bêp, but it’s not the highlight as is the case for most Vietnamese joints around town. There is plenty of rice, grilled meat, and dishes you’ve never heard of (the hen xao xuc banh da, anyone) to experiment with as well. Go hungry. 88 - 90 Wellington St., Central, 2581-9992.

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DINING | The Guide LOYAL DINING — Chinese $ At Loyal Dining, you’ll find fried rice alongside garlicky soft escargot, foie gras and char siu (barbecue pork), signature roast pigeon and beef Wellington Hong Kong-style (served on a hot iron plate). 66 Wellington St., Central, 3125-3000. MING COURT — Cantonese $$$$ Ming Court is the sister restaurant of the famed T’ang Court and just as elegant-defined by antiques, gilded panels, elaborate Chinese designs and delicious cuisine. The menu is extensive, with Cantonese specialties such as abalone, lobster and pigeon, and prepared with a special high-temperature stir-frying technique that seals flavors into the dishes. Staffers are near clairvoyant and happy to recommend a wine or Chinese spirit to go with your meal. 6/F, Langham Place, Mongkok, 555 Shanghai St., Mong Kok, 3552-3300. MOTT 32 — Cantonese $$$$ Mott 32 is restaurant group Maximal Concepts’ first foray into Chinese cuisine, and like its other restaurants, it’s dark, dramatic and exclusive. B/F, Standard Chartered Building, 4-4A Des Voeux Rd. Central, 2885-8688. NAMKEEH — Noodles And Rice $ The multibranch Nam Kee Noodle group has decided to diversify its portfolio slightly with a shop in Central that focuses on more healthy, calorie-conscious ingredients. It’s all noodles, naturally, and they come in three types of broth: tomato, seasonal veggie and spicy and sour. You can choose from rice vermicelli, rice noodle, udon and, yes, even macaroni. 1/F, Kai Tak Commercial Building, 66-72 Stanley St., Central, 2536-0221. Peking Garden

BIBO — French $$$$$ Between the colorful chaos of authentic contemporary art, personable service and opulent menu, Bibo is a strong contender for one of Sheung Wan’s top tables.163 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2956-3188. BREAD STREET KITCHEN & BAR — British $$$ Should you go once just to say you’ve eaten at a Ramsay restaurant. Honestly, the mediocre food just isn’t worth it. M/F, LKF Hotel, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2230-1800. DIN TAI FUNG — Chinese $$ The xiaolongbao at Taiwanese chain restaurant Din Tai Fung are some of the most delectable soup-filled pork dumplings in the city, with delicately fine skin and succulent, juicy meat. Shop 3-9, G/F, 68 Yee Wo St., Causeway Bay, 3160-8998. DONG LAI SHUN — Chinese $$$ Established in Beijing since 1903, this restaurant serves high-end Beijing and Huaiyang cuisine. B2/F, The Royal Garden, 69 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2733-2020. GATEWAY CUISINE — Cantonese $$$ Gateway Cuisine is at the very back of the Lei Yue Mun maze. You have to make your way through literally every seafood peddler, eggroll seller and tout before you end up here. Which might explain why it’s the glitziest, best designed of 24 WH E R E HO N G K O N G I J U N E 2 015

the bunch. G/F, 5A Lei Yue Mun Praya Rd., Lei Yue Mun, 2727-4628. HO LEE FOOK — Chinese $$ HLF is a cheeky, modern take on Chinese cuisine, courtesy of Aussie chef Jowett Yu (of Ms. G’s and Mr. Wong in Sydney). The venue consists of a ground floor open kitchen decked out in mahjong tiles, and a dark and funky basement dining room. LG-G/F, 1-5 Elgin St., Central, 2810-0860. JADE GARDEN — Chinese $$$ Jade Garden is a local institution, serving up specialty dishes from around China, such as Peking duck, beggar’s chicken and bird’s nest soup with morsels of crabmeat. It’s big, bright and deservedly popular. 3/F, Causeway Bay Plaza 2, 463-483 Lockhart Rd., Causeway Bay, 2573-9339. KINSALE — Western $$$ Kinsale is a sprawling, open-air addition to Kennedy Town’s ever gentrifying dining scene. The resto mixes Irish-inspired interiors with western comfort food for a pretty decent result. Shop 3, New Fortune House, 3-5 New Praya, Kennedy Town, 2796-6005. LA VACHE — French $$-$$$ Inspired by the Le Relais de l’Entrecôte chain from Paris, LV is a brasserie-style space that specializes in the classic European dish. 48 Peel St., Central, 2880-0248.

NANHAI NO. 1 — Asian $$$ Nanhai No. 1 does classic Chinese fare with a slightly modern flair. Seafood takes center stage here, and the restaurant offers a wide array of freshly caught fish. Choose your catch and then tell the kitchen team how you’d like it prepared. Otherwise, put your trust in the restaurant’s recommendations and go for their signature juicy baked oysters in spicy Sichuan sauce or geoduck simmered in consomme. Shop 3001, 30/F, iSquare, 63 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2487-3688. PEKING GARDEN — Chinese $$$ This famouswith-tourists restaurant tucked into the basement of Alexandra House is known for its signature Peking duck and other Chinese delicacies. The restaurant is also known for its Beggar’s chicken, which has to be ordered at least 2 days in advance. Shop B1, Alexandra House, 16-20 Chater Rd., Central, 2526-6456. PETRUS — French $$$$ This place can best be equated with a fine wine: expensive but so pleasing to the palate that it’s worth the money. Ingredients are flown in from France, and the wine list thoroughly covers every major region. There are more than 1,000 choices, said to be the longest and perhaps the best in Asia, with some rare vintages at stratospheric prices. The decor is opulent and the view magnificent. Jacket required 56/F, Island Shangri-La, Supreme Court Rd., Admiralty, 2820-8590. SPRING DEER — Chinese $ At this loud, busy establishment that’s starting to show its age, you feel the quasi-nostalgic vibe as soon as you


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DINING | The Guide

On a High Note

walk in, and it really makes the experience. Get the Peking duck. 1/F, 42 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-4012.

Three places to enjoy high tea. By Adele Wong

THE FRENCH WINDOW — French $$$$ Enjoy casual French dishes in a trendy bistro setting while taking in gorgeous views of the harbor Shop 3101, 3/F, Podium, IFC Mall, 1 Finance St., Central, 2393-3812.

The Lobby Enjoy a quintessentially colonial afternoon at The Peninsula’s grand and spacious Lobby, where you’ll be serenaded by a live classical band as you nibble on finger sandwiches and dainty pastries. The tea sets cost $358 per person or $628 for two. Tea at The Pen is extremely popular, so do be prepared to queue as reservations are not accepted. Daily 2-6pm. The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2920-2888.

THE GRAND STAGE — Chinese $ Located atop the colonial-style Western Market, this is a cavernous high-ceilinged restaurant that serves excellent dim sum. 2/F, Western Market, 323 Des Voeux Rd. Central, Sheung Wan, 2915-2311. THE PAWN — British $$$ The revamp of The Pawn caused a bit of a storm last year. Does the new look and fancified menu hold up 62 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2866-3444. THE PENTHOUSE BY HARLAN GOLDSTEIN — Western $$$$ The Penthouse, occupying 6,800 sq. ft, is now chef Goldstein&39;s fourth establishment. This restaurant showcases handcrafted pastas and a Josper Grill. 30/F, Soundwill Plaza II Midtown, 1-29 Tung Lung St., Causeway Bay, 2970 0828. TOKORO — Japanese $$$ A stylishly robatayakistyle Japanese restaurant perched above the hubbub of Mong Kok that offers an excellent bird’s-eye view of the action below from the modern bar. Excellent range of sake and whiskey 3/F, Langham Place, Mongkok, 555 Shanghai St., Mong Kok, 3552-3330. TUNG PO SEAFOOD — Cantonese $$ When celeb chef Anthony Bourdain visited this joint in 2007, he catapulted it to stardom. But does this rough-and-ready cacophony of packed tables in a cooked food center still live up to the hype 2/F, Java Road Municipal Services Building, 99 Java Rd., North Point, 2880-5224. UPPER MODERN BISTRO — French $$$ Helmed by chef Philippe Orrico, who used to head St. George at Hullett House, this Sheung Wan establishment serves French tapas and all-day fare. 6-14 Upper Station St., Sheung Wan, 2517-0977.

Clipper Lounge

Palm Court

Clipper Lounge

Palm Court

Dive into hazelnut cakes, grilled cheese sandwiches and scones with rose petal jam at Hong Kong island’s most iconic hotel. The buzzing Clipper Lounge serves afternoon tea sets for one at $278, or $488 for two.

Renovated and reopened Palm Court has partnered up with English pottery maker Wedgwood to create an afternoon tea served in exquisite cups and saucers designed with rose motifs, made especially for the occasion. At $428 per head or $698 per couple, the set includes lychee mousse pastries, gold-topped chocolates and delectable eclairs.

Mon-Fri 3-6pm, Sat 2-4pm, 4:15-6:15pm, Sun 3-6pm. The Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4005.

Mon-Fri 3-5:30pm, Sat-Sun 2:15-4:15pm, 4:30-6:30pm. The Langham, 8 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2132-7898.

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VEGGIE PALACE — Vegetarian or Organic $$ Lovely middle-aged ladies consistently buzz in and out of the busy kitchen at the back, carrying steaming platters to the tables and scooping up finished dishes in one fluid motion. At about $240 per head, you’re served a multi-course menu of whatever’s available for the day. There are no meat dishes here but if you didn’t know any better you would’ve thought otherwise. Room 3, Loft, Block B, Kwong Sang Hong Building, 6 Heard St., Wan Chai, 2838-6506. WHISK — European $$$ Whisk is sophistication with a hip edge. It’s all about contempoEuropean cuisine made with the freshest seasonal ingredients, and the menu changes regularly. Level 5, The Mira Hong Kong, 118-130 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-5999. XI YAN PRIVATE DINING RESTAURANT — Cantonese $$$ Xi Yan is a private kitchen that blends traditional Chinese cuisine with pan-Asian flavors. After the wild success of this restaurant, proprietor celebrity chef Jacky Yu replicated his winning formula with branches


DINING

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www.outback.com.hk

Whampoa Shop 3A, G/F, Site 4, Whampoa Garden, Hunghom Reservations: 2766 2823

Tuen Mun Tsuen Wan

Whampoa Tsim Sha Tsui Wanchai

Whisk

Tsim Sha Tsui East Taikoo Causeway Bay

Tsim Sha Tsui Shop 1, Level 2, 26 Nathan Rd. Reservations: 3741 1728

Tsim Sha Tsui East Shops 23-28, Upper Ground Floor, Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Rd. Reservations: 2311 7800 Tsuen Wan Shops 3-5, Level 2, Discovery Park Shopping Centre, 398 Castle Peak Rd. Reservations: 2940 0682 Taikoo Shops G9-G10, G/F, Kornhill Plaza, 1 Kornhill Rd. Reservations: 2560 8246 Tuen Mun Shop 2016-2017, 2/F, Phase 1, Tuen Mun Town Plaza Reservations: 2426 3918

around town-but come here for the original experience. 3/F, 83 Wan Chai Rd., Wan Chai, 2575-6966. XIA FEI SOCIETY — Shanghainese $$$ Xia Fei Society is the glamorous flagship of the Xia Fei group of restaurants, serving fancy Shanghainese fare in a contemporary space full of round white tables and sturdy wooden seats. 4/F, Century Square, 1-13 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2522-7611. YE SHANGHAI — Shanghainese $$$ There are two branches of Ye Shanghai, but if we had to choose we’d pick the Kowloon branch for its sprawling, fabulous nouveau Chinois decor. As for the food, it’s good, upscale Shanghainese cuisine served in shareable portions. Go for dishes such as xiaolongbao, river shrimps and the camphor-smoked duck with pancakes 332, 3/F, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2918-9833. YUN YAN — Sichuan $$ Despite the fresh look, the food at this Mira Group establishment still takes center stage. There are a few gimmicky items on the menu, like an eightflavor tofu that comes with a colorful range of garnishes, but plenty of tasty classics can also be had. Shop 1001B, 10/F, Times Square, 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay, 2375-0800

Price Guide $ Less than $200 $$ $200-$399 $$$ $400-$599

$$$$ $600-$799 $$$$$ $800 and up

Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course and dessert. Prices do not include bottles of wine unless stated. J U N E 2 015 I W HERE H ONG KO N G 27


TASTE OF THE CITY B R O U G H T T O Y O U B Y O U R R E S TA U R A N T PA R T N E R S

Sha Tin Honey Cake & Apple Pie

BB’s European Cuisine

Patisserie located in Hyatt Regency Hong Kong, Sha Tin is a perfect one-stop shop with an extensive selection of scrumptious homemade pastries.

Europe is known for its variety of landscapes and cultures, from breath-taking coastlines to beautiful mountains and plains, from Vikings to Roman.

The signature Sha Tin Honey Cake is made with pure honey from a local apiary near the Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery in Sha Tin, and baked in a tailormade wooden base with a traditional method. Offering a perfect balance of sponginess and moisture, this cake has an exquisitely airy texture that exudes the original flavours of natural pure honey.

The spectacular scenery and historical background also gives inspiration and diverse gastronomical heritage to Chefs, and regions and nations alike are reflected in the plates. Let’s take a culinary journey from Nordics to Naples across the souls of the continent at BB’s

Another “must try” sweet from Patisserie is the Sha Tin Apple Pie. It is baked with the same Sha Tin honey. Their chefs add a creative twist to the traditional recipe by using both green and red apples that the natural flavours are complemented with the pure honey. Open 24 hours Patisserie, Lobby Level, Hyatt Regency Hong Kong, Sha Tin 18 Chak Cheung Street, Sha Tin, New Territories 3723 1234, hongkong.shatin@hyatt.com

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The Majestic decor, brassy finishes, authenticated color concept mingled with banks of fine display vintages surely open up a chest of contemporary European culture. Address: 6/Fl., QRE Plaza, 202 Queen’s Road East, Wanchai, Hong Kong Tel: 2838 3272 Website: www.mhihk.con


Akita Teppanyaki Specialist The breathtaking performance of Teppanyaki with a poetically inspired interior, the Restaurants stand out from the rest as we know that our discerning customers will not settle for anything less than extraordinary. We pamper our guests with the freshest of ingredients, some of them novel to the culture, prepared to perfection by our experienced chefs, who are keen to interact with their customers to find out their individual preferences and fine-tune their culinary skills to suit the most demanding palate. Daily jet-flown Sashimi delicacies from Hokkaido enable our Sashimi chefs to create astonishing show pieces that are second to none. 8 Observatory Court, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon Tel: 2316 2727 15 Knutsford Terrace, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon Tel: 2721 0228 8/Fl., QRE Plaza, 202 Queen’s Road East, Wanchai, Hong Kong Tel: 2788 0012 Website: www.mhihk.com

Springtime Delights The spring season signals the transition at the farmers’ market from citrus fruits to fresh berries. A similar shift can be seen in many restaurants’ kitchen and dessert menus as the fusion of produce from two different seasons takes place in one delightful dish. No different is Cucina, the pure Italian restaurant in the Marco Polo Hongkong Hotel in Tsim Sha Tsui. Cucina will be showcasing 8 exquisite and refreshing desserts, available until the end of June. Like the awakening in nature that springtime brings about, the desserts consist of a whole range of elements, from edible flowers and Amarena cherries to ricotta cheese and balsamic vinegar. Already a favourite amongst guests is the Fig and Hazelnut Tart (pictured). Address: Level 6, Marco Polo Hongkong Hotel, Harbour City, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong. Tel: 2113 0088 Web: www.marcopolohotels.com

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DRINKS | The Guide

Secret Society Enjoy a new drinks menu at this underground bar. By Adele Wong

Basement bar Le Boudoir is spicing up its drinks list with nine new cocktails on the menu, each with an intriguing name. The secretive Wyndham Street venue will be offering a Machu Picchu ($120), a play on the Pisco Sour mixed with forest berry tea, bitters, lime juice and pineapple syrup. There’s also the Eden’s Garden ($110), a gin-based cocktail with fruity apricot flavors. Fans of rum can go for the personality-packed Republique ($130), mixed with bitters, port wine and liqueur. Enjoy the drinks in the lush, quirky setting that loyal patrons have come to love. B/F, 65 Wyndham St., Central, 2530-3870.

ALCHEMY — Alchemy is the perfect antidote to the crowds of Wyndham. In addition to the lounge bar, it also boasts a dining-in-the-dark experience in the basement. The concept is nothing new, but now’s your chance to give it a go. Prefer to eat in the light? Seafood dishes are served in the lounge, as well as the likes of chargrilled wagyu beef and crispy pork belly. Guess it’s worth climbing those steps after all. G-LG/F, 16 Arbuthnot Rd., Central, 6821-2801. BOUJIS — Taking a cue from its highly successful and celeb-endorsed model in London, Boujis establishes an Asian branch in Hong Kong. The moody space comes alive at night with house, electro and similarly buzzing sounds. 37 Pottinger St., Central, 2324-0200.

Duddell’s

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BUNGALOW — Bungalow is branded as a supper club serving casual French fare, where the beats come out after hours. Cocktails reign supreme,

with 15 signatures to choose from. Shop 2, G/F, The Centrium, 60 Wyndham St., Central, 2623-7868. BUTLER — Masayuki Uchida, the halfCantonese, half-Japanese owner of this posh, all-wooden Japanese bar, allegedly knows 2,000 cocktail recipes by heart. This nightspot is exclusive, fitting only 18 people and allowing groups with a maximum of five people. 5/F, Mody House, 30 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2724-3828. DJIBOUTII — Hidden down an unassuming alleyway in Wan Chai, Djiboutii is an Africainspired “urban sanctuary.” Ingredients like Casamigos tequila, sloe berry liqueurs and Aztec chocolate make appearances in signature cocktails. Nibble on kebab skewers and naan bread dipped in baba ganoush. Shop 1, G/F, 2 Landale St., Wan Chai, 9449-0777.

For weekly event listings, pick up a free copy of HK Magazine (available at bars, restaurants and coffee shops).

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DRINKS FU LU SHOU — Hongkongers love a good rooftop bar, so it’s no surprise that the super-hip Fu Lu Shou is all the rage. Meaning “happiness, prosperity and longevity,” Fu Lu Shou offers up cool surrounds and interesting concoctions. Not only do the innovative cocktails have a strong local flavor, but you’ll also find westernstyle Chinatown favorites on the menu. 7/F, 31 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2336-8812. HAM & SHERRY — Patterned floor-to-ceiling Azulejo tiles in sharp blue and white are the first things that catch your eye at this modestly sized venue. In case it’s not obvious, sherry is the drink of choice here. G/F, 1-7 Ship St., Wan Chai, 2555-0628. ORIGIN — The name is a bit of a giveaway— gin is high up on the menu here. With famed mixologist Antonio Lai at the helm, Origin serves up a delectable selection of every kind of gin you can think of—and a few more for good measure. G/F, 48 Wyndham St., Central, 2668-5583. OZONE — Located 118 floors above the ground, this bar boasts the title of the highest bar in Hong Kong. With an extensive—and expensive—menu of bubbly bottles and cocktails, this bar is a must-see, mainly because of its sky-high, drop-dead gorgeous lookout onto Victoria Harbour. 118/F, The RitzCarlton, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2263-2263. RED BAR — Great for alfresco drinks, this is a popular spot with suits and gym bunnies who hustle over from Pure Fitness for a low-cal meal and a sinful cocktail or three. It has one of the largest terraces in town, and an awesome view to match. 4/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 8129-8882.

RUMMIN’ TINGS — Holding court just under the escalator, Rummin’ Tings is a Caribbeanthemed bar adds a tropical touch to the SAR. As the name (“rum and things”) suggests, rum takes center stage. Close your eyes while you’re savoring a cocktail, and you could almost be on an exotic island—except you’re right in the middle of an unbeatable peoplewatching spot. 28 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2523-7070. SEVVA — A spacious alfresco terrace surrounds this super-stylish restaurant/lounge and offers unique, panoramic views over Hong Kong. A perfect place to watch the Symphony of Lights. 25/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2537-1388. SHORE — A swanky submarine-themed bar with one of the most extensive drinks selection in town. Cocktail lovers can go for a “Surprise Me”: Choose an ingredient and have the bartender create a unique 10-minute martini, made from fresh fruits and herbs. 3/F, L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, Central, 2915-1638. STOCKTON — An apparent reproduction of a turn-of-the-20th century decadent gentlemen’s club, Stockton not only possesses a sophisticated and secretive vibe, it’s literally hidden in a poorly lit alleyway of Wyndham Street. Once inside, the bar transforms into a posh and glamorous space, decorated with elaborate furniture and antiques, perfect for intimate and romantic nights out. The whiskey and rum-based cocktails are excellent—definitely try the Ribston Apple, an easy-to-drink concoction of spiced rum, Amaretto, apple cider, honey and cinnamon. G/F, 32 Wyndham St., Central, 2565-5268.

SUGAR — Located on the 32nd floor with an outdoor deck area some 300 feet above Victoria Harbour, this is the perfect place for patrons to soak up the stunning skyline and sea views Hong Kong has to offer. 32/F, East Hotel, 29 Tai Koo Shing Rd., Quarry Bay, 3968-3738. TAPAGRIA — If you’re looking for a view, tapas and sangria look no further than Tapagria, situated on the upper floors of The One shopping mall. Enjoy one of the 65 sangria concoctions alongside Spanish dishes like paella and croquettes. 18/F, The One, 100 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2147-0111. THE ENVOY — The Envoy is a stylish venue in an unbeatable Central location, with a touch of colonial influence. Tea makes a frequent appearance in the cocktails: a tip of the hat to the city’s first governor Sir Henry Pottinger, who had a hand in establishing Hong Kong as a major shipping port for the infusion. 3/F, The Pottinger Hong Kong, 74 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2169-3311. THE TONNO — This multi-faceted complex features a bar, clubbing zone, restaurant, live music lounge, VIP party enclaves and karaoke rooms—in short, it takes “all-around entertainment” to a whole new level. 5 Tonnochy Rd., Wan Chai, 3125-3888. THE WOODS — This basement bar is decked out in nature-inspired decor—hence the name— and shakes up creative and painstakingly crafted cocktails. L/G, 17 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2522-0281. VOLAR — The 5,000-square-foot club is divided into two main rooms: the Club Room and the Electronic Room. The design focuses on highlighting light and sound through decor, with a futuristic, clean and crisp look.B/F, 38-44 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2810-1510.

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SHOPS+SERVICES | The Guide

It’s all Elementary Explore the up-and-coming area of West Kowloon with Elements Mall as your starting point. By Evelyn Lok

Located in the West Kowloon district, Elements Mall was built in 2007 on reclaimed land aimed to be a major nerve center for high-end shopping. As its name suggests, you’ll find five zones pertaining to each of the five elements: fire, water, metal, wood and earth—each designed with a distinctive style in mind. Managed by a subsidiary of the MTR Corporation, Elements is just a hop, skip, and jump away from most of Hong Kong, easily accessible by MTR to Kowloon Station, or a 10-minute walk from Austin station. It’s right next to the Western Tunnel, with ample public transport services connecting to the Western district of Hong Kong Island and beyond. Above Elements is Union Square, a massive commercial and residential complex. It’s here where you’ll find

Civic Square, a round of alfresco dining joints that provide great sunny daytime dining. Come nightfall, it’s a casual yet buzzing corner where bars are busy late into the night. Positioning itself as a hub for upmarket fashion, you’ll find luxury labels such as Givenchy and Alexander McQueen, as well as local cashmere giant Tse and Finnish design brand Marimekko. Those looking to shop on a shoestring won’t be left out either, as Elements boasts two of the most expansive H&M and Zara stores in the city.

The Night Market The Night Market serves up classic Taiwanese street food and home-style dishes in a modern space with touches of the old, such as with its funky take on traditional blue-and-white china designed locally by Latitude 22N.

Toro This rooftop steakhouseslash-gastrobar offers a plethora of cuts ranging from skirt steak to filet mignon to bonein ribeye, all served with a little Latin-American flair.

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The Grand Cinema Boasting 1,600 cushy leather seats, you can catch all the latest blockbusters and special screenings in comfort and style in one of the largest cinema complexes in Hong Kong.



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BESPOKE | The Guide

A Home Run Looking for a memorable souvenir? Try a piece of custom-made Chinese furniture. By Dan Creffield Since 1997, The Red Cabinet has been offering traditional antique Chinese furniture sourced throughout China and Europe, as well as creating bespoke furniture designs. Each commission begins with a meeting to ensure everyone is on the same page concept-wise, and clients are encouraged to bring a simple sketch or a photograph if possible. The Red Cabinet’s team will discuss options, after which they will create a computer visualization where materials, finishes, and other details will be considered. “We've been told what helps set us apart is that we listen to our clients,” says owner Clarissa Wong. “It is a collaborative process and it’s really important to understand the client's vision and functional requirements. Whether a client would like to be involved every step along the way, or if they are too busy and would like us to do the bulk of the work, our team is happy to help.” The Red Cabinet, 2/F One Island South, Wong Chuk Hang, 2536-0123, red-cabinet.com.hk.

FURNITURE MAKERS

TAILORS

ITO FUTON — If you’re looking to create a Japanese vibe at home, Ito Futon is your go-to store. The company makes a wide range of traditional and contemporary Japaneseinspired furniture, as well as solid cedar bathtubs, futon mattresses, tatami (woven straw mat) flooring, shÐji (sliding doors), lamps, lanterns and more. The company can even give your home a complete Japanese makeover if you want to go the whole hog. 1/F, Hong Kong Building, 141 Lockhart Rd., Wan Chai, 2845 1138, www.itofuton.com.

A-MAN HING CHEONG — One of the oldest names in tailoring, A-Man Hing Cheong has been in the business for over 100 years. This is where British tycoons and Chinese taipans come to be transformed into gentlemen. Fabrics, craftsmanship and service are the reasons for their success in the business. Tailor-made suits require at least six days to complete. M/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, Central, 2522-3336.

PAO SUN FURNITURE — This family business, which has been selling and making fine Chinese furniture for more than 60 years, can turn around one-off pieces within about two months from its factory in China. Pao Sun Furniture stocks large quantities of exotic humidity and insect-resistant timbers associated with Asia, including Burmese blackwood, rosewood, camphorwood, padauk , teakwood and Indian ebony. From this it can craft exquisite pieces, specializing in traditional Chinese woodwork. Pao Sun Furniture Co., Ltd., G/F, Dominion Centre, 53 Queen’s Rd. East, Wan Chai, Hong Kong, 2527-7234. 34 WH E R E HO N G K O N G I J U N E 2 0 15

PACIFIC CUSTOM TAILORS — Specializing in bespoke British-style suits in your choice of more than 500 wool fabrics from the U.K. and Italy, Pacific Custom Tailors can have your new threads ready in as little as two days. To add a touch of refinement, they use silk linings and buttons. Shop C1, G/F, 19 Des Voeux Rd. Central, Central, 2845-5377. PUNJAB HOUSE — In business for more than 100 years, Punjab House specializes in fine Shanghainese tailoring and offers a variety of packages for men and women. It has over 10,000 styles and fabrics to choose from, and will keep measurements on file for future orders. It also has a branch in London offering

tailoring and pick-up services. Shop G, G/F, Burlington House, 94 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-5635. SAM'S TAILOR — Sam's is possibly the most famous tailor in town-with a celebrity client list to match, including David Bowie, Luciano Pavarotti and Prince Charles. Suits can be completed in as quick as 24 hours, but ideally they take at least two fittings and several days. There are more than 2,500 types of fabrics to choose from. G/F, K&L Burlington Arcade, 90-94C Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-9423.

Punjab House



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SHOPS+SERVICES | The Guide

Get the Look

ficing comfort. By Adele Wong Stay stylish on Hong Kong’s streets—without sacri

Flared dress, $7,290, Alice + Olivia

Clutch, $580, Danielle Nicole @ The 9th Muse

Hat $150, Sunglasses $80, Halter top $200, Shorts $250, Sandals $TBC, Monki

Shirt $1,380, Shorts $1,790, Sneakers $1,380, Maison Kitsune

Maison Kitsune, Shop A, Fashion Walk, 42 Paterson St., Causeway Bay, 2764-4933.

Chateau Zoobeetle, 38 Sai St., Sheung Wan, 9288-2472.

Monki, 29 Granville Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3527-3481.

Alice + Olivia, Shop 3078B, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2234-7253.

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Slippers, $2,400, Chateau Zoobeetle

The 9th Muse, Shop 1204, 12/F, One Lyndhurst Tower, 1 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, 2537-7598.


SHOPS+SERVICES Fortune cookie locket, $680, Tang Tang Tang Tang

Hot Picks

Get into the spirit of the Dragon Boat Festival on June 20 with these must-haves. By Evelyn Lok

Sunglasses, $880, Carrera @ Ocean Optical

Dragon clutch, $7,350, Kotur @ Sogo

Picnic blanket, $460, Jack Wills

Wine bag, $320, Joyvino

Sogo G/F, Sheraton Hotel Shopping Centre, 20 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2833-8338. Joyvino shop.joyvino.com

Jack Wills Shop L02, Leighton Centre, 77 Leighton Rd., Causeway Bay, 3105-1798.

Ocean Optical Shop 348, Ocean Centre, Harbour City, 3 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2735-0611.

Tang Tang Tang Tang 66 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2525-2112, www.tangtangtangtang.com.

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Tang Tang Tang Tang

SHOPPING CENTERS APM — In the center of Kwun Tong, APM opens late and closes late. With 150 shops and more than 20 restaurants offering cuisine from around the world as well as a cinemaplex, this shopping mall is not to be missed. Millennium City, 418 Kwun Tong Rd., Kwun Tong, 2267-0500. ELEMENTS — This upscale shopping mall was developed by the MTR Corporation and sits directly above Kowloon station. It features everything from luxury brands and fine dining to a skating rink and cinema. 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon. HARBOUR CITY — This enormous stretch of shopping runs along Canton Road for what seems like miles. It offers 700 shops, 50 food and beverage outlets, three five-star hotels and five cinemas, and includes Lane Crawford, City'super and Faces. The main concourse also plays host to periodic exhibitions and performances. The customer service center on the second floor of the Gateway mall and the various counters dotted about the mall all offer assistance to shoppers. 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2118-8601. HORIZON PLAZA — Horizon Plaza is a basically an industrial building that is packed to the rafters with great shopping, notably the Joyce and Lane Crawford fashion warehouses—where last season's cast-offs are available at a fraction of the in-store price. Boasting 200,000 square feet, you can get anything from barbecues, kids' clothing, carpets and outdoor furniture to toys and antiques. Parking available. 2 Lee Wing St., Ap Lei Chau. IFC MALL — Located above the Airport Express station, the IFC Mall is home to more than 200 shops, uber chic restaurants and the city's most prestigious gym, Pure Fitness. Catch a movie at the five-screen Cineplex—with the plushest leather seats in Central—or dine at some of the city's trendiest restaurants. The elaborately decorated Lane Crawford is well worth a visit, as are the hordes of flagship stores. Customers can also make use of Lane Crawford's 38 WH E R E HO N G K O N G I J U N E 2 015

complimentary fashion and cosmetic concierge. 8 Finance St., Central, 2295-3308. K11 — K11 combines innovative design and a trendy shopping experience. This six-story mall has 340,000 square feet of floor area housing art exhibitions and chic stores. A one-of-a-kind shopping center, it offers a glimpse at Hong Kong's creative side. 18 Hanoi Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3118-8070. LANGHAM PLACE MALL — This 15-story mega-mall offers the latest in hip and stylish accoutrements. Housing 300 retailers, the entertainment and retail destination also includes anchor tenants UA Cinemas, Seibu, and 34 food and beverage outlets. 8 Argyle St., Mong Kok, 2148-1518. PMQ — PMQ (the former Police Married Quarters) is one of the biggest creative hubs in Hong Kong, packed full of independent design stores selling arts, crafts, clothes and leather goods. 35 Aberdeen St., Central. PACIFIC PLACE — One of the most popular shopping malls in Hong Kong, Pacific Place has four floors of upscale shops and restaurants. Some of the biggest names in fashion and jewelry have a presence here, including Gucci, Prada, Chopard and Cartier. Luxe department store Harvey Nichols, Great Food Hall (a grocery store with a wide selection of prepared foods for takeaway) and an AMC cinema are a few of the anchor tenants. 1801, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2844-8900. THE LANDMARK — Best known for its atrium, shopping at The Landmark is a five-star experience, especially with the five-floor Harvey Nichols department store and the Louis Vuitton flagship. Featuring the world's leading designer labels, The Landmark is a one-stop shop for luxury goods, be it high fashion or expensive jewelry. 15 Queen's Road Central, Central, 2525-4142. TIMES SQUARE — The 12-story Times Square packs some of Hong Kong's most popular stores, including City'super in the basement and Page One on the 9th floor. Electronics, fashion, sports gear and jewelry stores can all be found

in the main building. The concierge service, located on the second floor, provides a range of services, including booster cables and sewing kits. 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay, 2118-8900.

SHOPS, BOUTIQUES AND LOCAL DESIGNERS 22 DEGREES NORTH — Art, culture and leather satchels: this stylish concept store has its eye on the hipster community. 22 Degrees North opened up shop in a converted fabric store in Sham Shui Po and aims to be a meeting point for Hongkongers in the creative field. The threestory space consists of a lifestyle shop, a hangout area (where you can also take classes) and a multipurpose space for exhibitions and gigs. 88 Nam Cheong St., Sham Shui Po, 2568-1147. CHINESE ARTS & CRAFTS — One of Hong Kong’s most famous cheongsam-makers, this shop has more than 100 years’ experience in tailoring and Chinese crafts. Its cheongsams are traditionally cut from high-quality fabric imported from China. The shop has a large international following, including Hillary Clinton, Margaret Thatcher and former Indonesian president Megawati Sukarnoputri 220, Pacific Place 2, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2523-3933. FOUND MUJI — Found Muji is Muji's unique concept store that does exactly what it promises in its name; the company finds everyday items in remote locations, and then reproduces them with tweaks and upgrades to suit customer tastes. Room S107, 1/F, PMQ Block A, 35 Aberdeen St., Central, 3971-3138. JOYCE BOUTIQUE — Named for Hong Kong’s first lady of fashion, Joyce Ma, who established the company but these days takes a back seat. Ma was the first person to bring top-end international designers to Hong Kong, and the shop is still the place for red-hot women’s and men’s fashion and accessories by the likes of Anna Sui, Vera Wang, Robert Dennis and John Galliano. The two-story shop is a masterpiece of funky luxury, decked out with an elaborate gold facade and boasting a fabulous beauty


SHOPS+SERVICES section. G/F, New World Tower, 18 Queen’s Rd., Central, 2810-1120. LANE CRAWFORD — Perched above Victoria Harbour, Lane Crawford carries one of the largest ranges of high-end designer brands in Hong Kong. The vast collection of shoes, handbags, accessories and trendy clothes is sure to have your wardrobe sorted in one swoop. The Lane Crawford stores at Times Square and Pacific Place also have a large collection of kitchenware. You can also find the department store at One Island South in Aberdeen. 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2118-3428. RUE DE MARSEILLE — This concept shop falls under the Agnes. b umbrella and is divided into different sections. There’s a florist shop, a patisserie, a vinyl records section, and separate floors for men’s and ladies’ fashion. Shop G26, G28 & 117-120, K11 Art Mall, 18 Hanoi Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3122-4282. SHANGHAI TANG FLAGSHIP STORE — More of a luxe Chinese emporium than a department store, Shanghai Tang’s flagship relocated from its iconic Pedder Street home in 2012. The homegrown luxury brand specializes in a funky fusion of traditional and contemporary Chinese design. You’ll find watches and accessories, great homewares, fun T-shirts, fashion for men and women and beautiful bespoke tailored cheongsams. 1 Duddell St., Central, 2525-7333. SQUARESTREET — Handmade leather goods and shoes by Swedish designer Alexis Holm. G/F, 15 Square St., Sheung Wan, 2362-1086. TANG TANG TANG TANG — Big dog Sir David Tang is at it again. The entrepreneur has already conquered Hong Kong’s high society with China Club and Shanghai Tang, and now

the more wallet-friendly Tang Tang Tang Tang is here. This lifestyle store, which sits underneath The Pawn, offers up chic home products—think retro-colonial Hong Kong with a modern Western twist. So if you’re looking to spice up your digs with a little Hong Kong feel, or you’re after a cool gift for your friends back home, then TTTT could be worth your time. 66 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2525-2112. THE SWANK — Representing established designers as well as upcoming talents from around the world, The Swank has been one of the finest local fashion houses since 1955. It has four boutiques around Hong Kong. Shop 312-314, The Landmark, Central, 2868-6990. WOAW! — Gough Street is one of Hong Kong's hippest areas, and the bar has been raised even higher with lifestyle concept store WOAW!, which stands for "World of Amazing Wonders." The store opened earlier this year as a haven for all things interesting. From Karen Walker sunnies to funky shoes to totally unique travel bags, the venture from designer and entrepreneur Kevin Poon is sure to add some fresh finds to your home and wardrobe. They also have Hershel bags for almost every occasion, whether you need a duffle for travel or a tote for shopping. 11 Gough St., Central, 2253-1313.

SPAS & SALONS BLISS SPA — On the 72nd floor of the W Hotel, the Bliss Spa has a spectacular view of the harbor. There are nine treatment rooms, including VIP suites, steam rooms, saunas and a vitality pool to dip into before or after your treatment. 72/F, W Hotel, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 3717-2797.

CHUAN SPA — This stunning spa focuses on the individual needs of each client through traditional Chinese medicine and theories. 41/F, Langham Place, Mongkok, 555 Shanghai St., Mong Kok, 3552-3510. THE PENINSULA SPA — This two-floor spa has sweeping harbor views and 14 stateof-the-art treatment rooms. Designed by Henry Leung, the interior fuses contemporary and traditional Chinese elements. Much attention has been given to detail, including 100 percent Egyptian cotton robes and fully automated Clodagh Gemini treatment beds. Book a treatment, and then get there an hour early to use the Greco-Roman swimming pool, Asian tea lounge, thermal suite with a crystal steam room, sauna with harbor views and other relaxation areas. 7/F, The Peninsula Hong Kong, Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2696-6682. THE RITZ-CARLTON SPA BY ESPA — On the 116th floor of the ICC building, the Ritz-Carlton Spa by ESPA is a sky-high oasis. In addition to nine luxurious treatment rooms with floor-to-ceiling views of the harbor, there are also couples' suites and a sprawling heat therapy zone to unwind before your treatment. 116/F, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2263-2263. THE SPA AT THE MIRA — Pamper yourself at the MiraSpa with The Ultimate Bridal Shower package. This six-person sparty includes unlimited access to the pool and fitness centre, as well as two bottles of Louis Roederer champagne. Enjoy a glass of bubbly and the specially made spa canapes while you chill out with your friends. B/F, The Mira Hong Kong, 118 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-5500.

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NAVIGATE

Paying Homage A new Yau Ma Tei hotel takes inspiration from its surroundings. By Charley Mulliner In the heart of Yau Ma Tei’s shopping streets and legendary eateries is Hong Kong’s new Tribute Hotel, which opens this month. Tribute is a back-to-basics boutique—an interesting oxymoron that does work: you get old-world Hong Kong design combined with up-market exclusivity and attention-to-detail. There’s also a focus on showcasing the neighborhood’s historical sites, local artistry and food. Tribute Hotel is the love child of all things SAR: from the dim sum trolley snack carts in the lobby to the cha chaan teng tiles in each guest’s bathroom, to the hotel’s very own ceramic collection, created by Hong Kong-based Latitude 22N. As soon as you walk in you can feel the influences of the city we live in, as well as its world-class (but locally based) designers, architects, restaurateurs and clothing brands. Guests are provided with white robes with black trimming from Edit on Hollywood Road, bath soaps from So…Soap!, coffee from Common Grounds, tea from Teakha and delicious craft brews from Young Master Ales. Then just step outside into Yau Ma Tei and you’ll find yourself in the midst of the city’s buzziest urban area, home to temples, street markets, local delicacies and quirky shops. Rooms from $1,200. 4 Tung Fong St., Yau Ma Tei, 2858-0788, www.tributehotels.com.

SIGHTS AVENUE OF STARS — Fans of Hong Kong movies will find their heroes' hand and footprints permanently etched in concrete along the Avenue of the Stars, as well as a statue of Bruce Lee. Go at 8pm for the nightly musicand-laser extravaganza called the 'Symphony of Lights.' Music only plays over the loudspeakers here, although the harborfront light display can be seen from around the city. Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront, Tsim Sha Tsui. BIG BUDDHA — Situated beside Po Lin Monastery on Lantau Island is the Big Buddha—the largest seated outdoor bronze Buddha in the world. The statue is set amid mountains and hiking trails, and is most impressive seen while in the cable car from Tung Chung. Nearby is "The Wisdom Path," lined with wood carvings featuring the calligraphy from an important text for Confucians, Buddhists and Taoists. The vegetarian restaurant within the monastery is the best option if you're famished. Ngong Ping Village, Lantau Island, 2985-5248.

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CHEUNG SHA BEACH — Stretching for three glorious kilometers along Lantau's south coast, Cheung Sha is Hong Kong's longest beach. With silky soft sand and the towering Sunset Peak as a backdrop, it's an island

paradise. Lantau. Catch a ferry from Central Pier 6 to Mui Wo, then take Bus 1, 2 or 4 to Cheung Sha. CHI LIN NUNNERY — An oasis of peace in the heart of Kowloon, this graceful, wooden Buddhist nunnery is the largest building in the world to be constructed using no nails-only wooden dowels and brackets. It's a 33,000-square-meter complex whose architectural style dates back to the Tang Dynasty, although the buildings themselves were completed in 1998. It's centered on a courtyard filled with lotus ponds, and a stroll through the gardens makes for a bucolic escape. Vegetarian food is available in a quaint teahouse. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill, 2354-1888. DUKLING CHINESE SAILING JUNK — The traditional Chinese junk, which was built in 1955, has recently undergone a major refurbishment and is set to sail the waters once more this June. 2573-5282, www. dukling.com.hk. FA YUEN STREET — Heaving with bargain hunters every afternoon, Fa Yuen Street is stuffed with cheap fashion boutiques, factory outlets and accessories stores for men, women and children. Fa Yuen St., Prince Edward.


NAVIGATE www.mtr.com.hk

HAPPY VALLEY RACECOURSE RECREATION GROUND — Join the screaming hordes at Happy Valley and Sha Tin racecourses for a few adrenalin-fueled hours. Mingle with the masses in the stands, or opt for the more refined atmosphere in the boxes. The season runs September to mid-June, with about 700 races a year held an average of twice a week. The Hong Kong Jockey Club is non-profitmaking, donating over $1 billion a year to local charities. HONG KONG OBSERVATION WHEEL — The city now has its own ferris wheel right by Victoria Harbour, for those who can't get enough of Hong Kong's stunning skyline. 33 Man Kwong St., Central. HONG KONG WETLAND PARK — This worldclass ecotourism attraction demonstrates the diversity of Hong Kong's wetlands, and the importance of conservation. It's a 61-hectare site with user-friendly facilities such as a stream walk, succession walk, mangrove boardwalk and bird hides. The galleries include displays about wetlands worldwide, a television studio and various exhibitions. Wetland Park Road, Tin Shui Wai, 3152-2666, www.wetlandpark.com. Open 10am-5pm, Closed Tue.

JARDINE'S BAZAAR — Little Jardine's Bazaar is jam-packed with cheap, fun things to buy. Geared towards the young and fashionconscious, you'll find clothes inspired by the latest catwalk trends for just a few dollars. Jardine's Bazaar, Causeway Bay. Causeway Bay MTR Station, Exit F. Open daily 11am9:30pm. LADIES' MARKET — Find dog toys, trinkets and accessories, racy underwear, costume jewelry and more all along this road. Down the side lanes are vintage shops, fashion outlets and the occasional restaurant. Tung Choi St., Mong Kok. Yau Ma Tei MTR, Exit A2. Open daily noon-11:30pm. LAN KWAI FONG — Thankfully closed to cars most of the time, these thoroughfares are jam-packed full of bars and nightclubs, with revelers spilling out into the streets at all hours. Attracting yuppies and visitors like moths to a flame, a good night out in Lan Kwai Fong is almost guaranteed. Lan Kwai Fong, near D'Aguilar Street, Central. MAN MO TEMPLE — This atmospheric temple must be one of the most photographed in Hong Kong. Great incense spirals dangle from the rafters, filling the roof space with aromatic smoke and lending a deep patina to the statues of gods Man Cheong (god

of literature) and Kuan Ti (god of martial arts, or Mo) on the altars. Locals burn paper offerings to their ancestors in the huge urns outside; pick up some Bank of Hell money or even a paper Mercedes from shops nearby. 126 Hollywood Rd., near Ladder Street, Sheung Wan. OCEAN PARK — Get up close and personal with a dolphin or a panda, walk through a shark tank, dive into a coral reef or whirl upside down on a roller coaster. Located near Aberdeen, Ocean Park manages to amuse and educate with its marine and bird life exhibits, giant panda enclosure, wild headland rides, and a cable car trip between the park's two parts. 180 Wong Chuk Hang Rd., Aberdeen, 2552-0291. TAI O — It would be wishful thinking to describe this fishing village as a "Venice of the East," but there's no doubting the charm of its maze of stilt houses built over a creek on the northwestern coast of Lantau Island. It's a fascinating slice of old Hong Kong, with dried fish stalls, trays of smelly shrimp paste, a picturesque Tin Hau Temple at the end of a causeway and a couple of interesting little museums. A boutique hotel and restaurant add a touch of colonial elegance to the traditional town. Lantau Island.

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NAVIGATE | The Guide THE STAR FERRY — No trip to Hong Kong is complete without a ride on the Star Ferry, which has been taking commuters between Hong Kong Island and Kowloon for over a century. For just a few dollars, you can enjoy Hong Kong's famous skyline from the best seats in the house. Central Pier 7, Man Kwong St., Central, 2367-7065. TSZ SHAN MONASTERY — This secluded 500,000-square foot Buddhist monastery was funded by property tycoon Li Ka Shing, and comes complete with 76-meter-tall Kwun Yum statue and bulletproof guest rooms for visiting monks. 88 Universal Gate Rd., Tai Po, 2123-8666. WONG TAI SIN TEMPLE — Named after the deity Wong Tai Sin, this Taoist temple completed its restoration in 1973 and is a popular shrine for local pilgrims who want to

glimpse their future via a Chinese practice called kau cim. Lung Cheung Rd., Wong Tai Sin, 2327-8141.

TOURS HONG KONG FOODIE — Get to know Hong Kong through the many different foods the city has to offer. Tours in Sham Shui Po and Central/ Sheung Wan available. LITTLE ADVENTURES IN HONG KONG BY REAL TRAVEL — Allow longtime Hong Kong resident and National Geographic columnist Daisann McLane to take you on an insider’s journey of the culinary paradise that is Hong Kong. WALK IN HONG KONG — Local Haider Kikabhoy and his team lead tours covering different districts in Hong Kong, from fishing village Tai O to culturally rich Sheung Wan. The tours can be conducted in English or Chinese.

Tai O

TOURIST INFORMATION HONG KONG TOURISM BOARD — The Hong Kong Tourism Board is ready to answer all your questions about travel in Hong Kong. Look for visitor centers at the following locations: Hong Kong International Airport (at Buffer Halls A and B, Arrivals Level, Terminal 1); Lo Wu (Arrival Hall, 2/F, Lo Wu Terminal Building); Kowloon (Star Ferry Concourse, Tsim Sha Tsui, open daily 8am-8pm); and The Peak Piazza (between The Peak Tower and The Peak Galleria, Hong Kong Island, open daily 9am-9pm). You can also call the Visitor Hotline (2508-1234) from 9am to 6pm. Visit www.discoverhonghong.com for descriptions of attractions, plus shopping, dining and touring tips. The website also has a comprehensive description of the month’s events and festivals, as well as virtual tours, e-cards, a photo gallery and handy downloadable apps for your phone. 42 WH E R E HO N G K O N G I J U N E 2 015

GET MOVING

OCTOPUS CARDS

Hong Kong has a great rapid transit railway system called the MTR, as well as highly punctual, carefully scheduled buses (with their routes clearly printed in English). Renting a car can be a headache because roads can be confusing and parking costly. It’s cheaper and easier to take a taxi, ferry, tram, bus, hotel limousine, or even a helicopter.

These are “tap-and-go” stored-value cards used across all of Hong Kong’s transportation systems (apart from taxis), and in retail outlets like car parks and convenience stores.

TAXIS Taxis are readily available at reasonable prices. Be aware that drivers cannot pick up or drop off on roads marked with double yellow lines, and no waiting is allowed except on unmarked roads. Red taxis serve Hong Kong Island and Kowloon and can go anywhere in the territory. Green taxis cost less but only serve the New Territories. Similarly, blue taxis serve Lantau Island only. Drivers generally speak some English, but it is wise to get the hotel staff to write your destination in Chinese, or point to one of the destinations in this guide.

The size of a credit card, the Octopus is simply placed on the touch pads at the entrance to public transportation or the cash register in shops. Payment is automatically deducted. Cards can be refilled at MTR stations and any retail outlet that accepts them. Three types of Octopus cards are available. The “On Loan Octopus” costs $150, which includes a $50 deposit and $100 of stored value. The “Sold Octopus” costs $50, and does not include any stored value. The “Airport Express Travel Pass” costs $220/$300 and includes one/two single Airport Express journeys and three days of unlimited rides on the MTR, $20 stored value and a $50 deposit.


NAVIGATE

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Ask an Insider

Charlie Lin is the “W Insider� at the trendy Kowloon-side W Hong Kong. She shares her tips on getting to know the city. What’s the most important Chinese word you think a visitor should learn?

My favorite restaurant is full. Can you get me a table?

Learn how the locals say “faai di la.� I love this word so much—it means “hurry up.� Hong Kong is such a fast-paced city and we love to rush people, so we say faai di la to friends a lot.

No, but if you go after 9:30pm there will be seats for you. This is the most recent trend in Hong Kong: the most favored places oftentimes don't accept reservations. They are that hot that they’re guaranteed to be full everyday.

Are there any Hong Kong hidden treasures you’d recommend? I am enchanted by the rolling landscape and picturesque bays of the south coast. Southside is a breath of fresh air with lots of greenery. The recent Hong Kong startup companies are establishing themselves on the Southside—they are all hidden in wobbly buildings, the owners and creators are often low-key. I love to call them the hidden hipsters of Hong Kong.

How would you spend a nice day with your partner in Hong Kong?

I’d like to eat some authentic Hong Kong food near here. Where would you recommend?

In Asia, tipping is not common practice because several service charges are included in the bill. However, we do tip when we feel like someone has gone the extra mile to make you feel amazing and welcome.

I would definitely recommend roaming the streets in Mong Kok and also the alleys in Tsim Sha Tsui. These streets offer a true Hong Kong experience—these hidden places are often quirky, with their own personalities and styles.

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I would spend a day hiking to the beach at Tai Long Wan and watch the sunset together. I’d then take a yacht back to the coast before we fall asleep in each other’s arms.

What is the etiquette on tipping in Hong Kong?

W Hong Kong, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 3717-2222, www.w-hongkong.com.

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+21* .21* For Advertising rates and further information. Call 2850 5678 Turtle Cove Beach in Southside J U N E 2 015 I W HERE H ONG KO N G 43


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WALKING TOURS | The Guide

TEMPLE TRAIL

Shing Wong Temple This temple was built in 1877 and was originally called Fook Tak Chi. In 1974, a new front gate was added, giving the impression of a temple within a temple, and it was renamed Shing Wong. Open 8am-5pm. Walk along Shau Kei Wan Main Street East to Sai Yun Lane. Turn right for the Tin Hau Temple.

Tin Hau Temple This small temple dates back to 1873 and is dedicated to the goddess of the sea and a number of lesser deities. There is a pair of stone lions outside the temple, and inside you’ll find a collection of wellpreserved murals, wood carvings and Shek Wan pottery. Open 8am-5pm. Walk along Shau Kei Wan Main Street East, and turn right on Basel Road to see Tsung Tsin Church.

Tsung Tsin Church This church was built in 1862 by local Hakkas with the help of priests from the Swiss Basel Church. When the Japanese invaded in 1941, it served as the temporary headquarters of the Japanese military police. After the war, the church was rebuilt, a school was added in 1958 and the church proper was further expanded in 1990.

In the old days, Shau Kei Wan provided a haven for ships and served as a typhoon shelter for fishermen. Over the years, the area became a center for shipbuilding, and a number of temples were constructed and dedicated to popular fishing community deities such as Tin Hau and Tam Kung. You can still visit them today, and they provide great color during local festivals.

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Continue along Shau Kei Wan Main Street East to A Kung Ngam Village Road. Follow the directional signs to Yuk Wong Temple.

Yuk Wong Temple

Dragon dancers celebrating the birthday of Tam Kung

Start at the Shau Kei Wan MTR station’s Exit C and walk along Mong Lung Street. Turn left onto Kam Wa Street, where the tram line ends. Shing Wong Temple is adjacent to it. (Or take a tram to the Shau Kei Wan terminus to start the tour.)

Yuk Wong is credited with saving lives and fixing flooding problems. This temple was originally a shrine built in the mid-19th century by people from mainland China who worked in a nearby stone quarry. In the early 1900s, the shrine was expanded into a small temple. Open 8am-5pm. Follow the directional signs and cross Tung Hei Road. Turn right and you will see the Hong Kong Museum of Coastal Defence in front of you.

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Hong Kong Museum of Coastal Defence The Lei Yue Mun Fort was built by the British in 1887 to defend Hong Kong against invasion by sea, and is now home to an intriguing exhibition of military memorabilia covering the 600 years since the Ming and Qing dynasties. It sits up high, overlooking the narrow strip of water across from Lei Yue Mun, now famous for its seafood restaurants. The museum paints a vivid picture of Britain’s readiness to defend Hong Kong against any aggressors. Open 10am-6pm Mar-Sep, 10am-5pm Oct-Feb (closed on Thursdays). Free admission on Wednesdays. Call 2569-1500. Walk back along Tam Kung Temple Road and follow the directional signs to the Tam Kung Temple.

Tam Kung Temple One of the few deities known only to Hong Kong, Tam Kung is also a patron of fishermen. This temple is over 100 years old and was renovated in 2002; the original design was preserved. Besides the statue of Tam Kung, there is a small wooden junk boat and a dragon boat inside the temple. Open 8am-5pm.

+21* .21* TAKE HONG KONG WITH YOU, EVER YOUR TRAVELS MAY TAKE YOU. Subscribe to WHERE Hong Kong’s eBook edition and have every issue delivered straight to your inbox once monthly. tiny.cc/whk-ebook J U N E 2 015 I W HERE H ONG KO N G 45


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24 HOURS IN HK | The Guide

Two’s Company On your honeymoon? Find time for just the two of you at these romantic spots. By Charley Mulliner

Married Bliss Couple time doesn’t get more indulgent than a spot of pampering à deux. Start off with a his-and-hers deep tissue, traditional Chinese or Thai massage before soaking in a champagne, milk or red wine bath at the Langham Place Hotel’s Chuan Spa. After the treatment, book in to the VIP suite, which boasts a personal Jacuzzi and comes with a platter of seasonal fruits and all the tea you can drink. 1/F, Langham Place Hotel, 555 Shanghai St., Mong Kok, 3552-3510, www.chuanspa.com.hk.

Height of Love Take your romance to new heights on the Peak Tram. Start early to reach the summit of Hong Kong’s tallest mountain while it’s quiet and head to the beautiful Victoria Peak Garden, where Chinese pagodas provide space for a tête à tête. Follow the Lugard Road walking trail around the front of the mountain—the birds will provide your chorus as the sun rises over the skyscrapers far below—and finish up with a romantic breakfast for two on the terrace at The Peak Lookout. Bag a table at the far side of the restaurant for the best views over the south of the island. The Peak Lookout, 121 Peak Rd., The Peak, 2849-1000, www.peaklookout.com.hk.

The Beach Life Escape the crowds of Stanley waterfront and walk round the coast to secluded St. Stephen’s Beach. Bored of each other already? The St. Stephen’s Beach Water Sports Centre offers a range of lessons in windsurfing or sailing.

Love’s Lunacy Set sail into your new life together with a boat ride across Hong Kong’s waters. As one of the last remaining red-sail wooden junk boats, the Aqua Luna is a memorable way to float through Victoria Harbour and see the island. On weekends, a 90-minute cruise departs from Central and bobs along to Stanley village on Hong Kong Island’s southside. Put your feet up on comfy loungers while on-board waiters serve you drinks and the sights slip past. Weekends only. 2116-8821, aqualuna.com.hk.

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Wong Ma Kok Road, Stanley, www.lcsd.gov.hk.


Tel: 2730 1251


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LANDMARKS | The Guide

SIGHTS TO

BEHOLD Seek out five of Hong Kong’s true architectural gems.

The Scene of Justice Set amid the towering financial institutions that dominate Hong Kong’s Central District is the elegant Old Supreme Court. Constructed on reclaimed land using Chinese fir-tree piles as foundations, it was the home of the Supreme Court until 1985. The building is preserved as a historical monument and is fronted by a striking statue of Themis, the Greek Goddess of Justice. 8 Jackson Rd., Central.

Home for the Arts Constructed in 1892 and once a cold storage warehouse, the Old Dairy Farm Depot is now home to the Hong Kong Fringe Club and the Foreign Correspondents’ Club. The Fringe Club’s portion of the brick and stucco building on Central’s Lower Albert Road has undergone eight major refurbishments and is now a vibrant contemporary arts space. 2 Lower Albert Rd., Central.


LANDMARKS

Roof with a View Take a walk down Garden Road and you will come across the Former French Mission Building on Battery Path. This neoclassicalstyle granite and red-brick building boasts an eye-catching cupola. It’s currently in use as the Hong Kong Court of Final Appeal and is therefore closed to the public. 1 Battery Path, Central.

Putting Money on the Map

A Taste of the Past

On the Central District waterfront, the International Finance Centre is a prominent landmark on Hong Kong Island and consists of two skyscrapers. The buildings have hosted an exhibition on Hong Kong’s monetary history, been featured in a number of blockbuster Hollywood movies, and put up an advertisement on the façade in 2003 that stretched more than 50 stories—making it the world’s largest skyscraper advert.

One of the most intriguing buildings you can visit is Murray House, a beautiful, restored three-story colonial building dating back more than 150 years. It was painstakingly dismantled brick-by-brick from Central in 1982 and moved to its present location in the former fishing village of Stanley on the south of Hong Kong Island. Stanley Main Street, Stanley.

8 Finance St., Central. J U N E 2 015 I W HERE H ONG KO N G 49

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FESTIVITIES

Photo: SCMP

Rock the Boat One of the most exciting events on the Hong Kong calendar is the Dragon Boat Festival, also known as Tuen Ng, which falls on June 20 this year.

JANUARY/ FEBRUARY Chinese New Year

Dragon boat racing has become a worldwide sport whose popularity has exploded in recent years. But Hong Kong’s Dragon Boat Festival is a unique, thrilling experience that shouldn’t be missed.

FEBRUARY/MARCH Spring Lantern Festival

The colorful boats and serious competitive action make the festival an easy favorite. Each year, multiple races are held at beaches across the city in commemoration of Chinese patriot Qu Yuan’s sacrificial death in the Miluo river 2,000 years ago. Locals also feast on glutinous rice dumplings wrapped in bamboo leaves called zong, which represent the packets of rice thrown into the river to prevent the fish eating the hero’s body. Catch the festivities at the following locations: Stanley, Sai Kung, Tai O, Cheung Chau.

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JULY/AUGUST Hungry Ghost Festival AUGUST Seven Sisters Festival

MARCH Hung Shing Festival

SEPTEMBER Mid-Autumn Festival Monkey God Festival

APRIL Ching Ming Festival

OCTOBER Chung Yeung Festival

MAY Cheung Chau Bun Festival

DECEMBER Winter Solstice Festival



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