June 8, 2022
9
whatsupyukon.com column with
Michele Genest
GATHER Michele Genest is a Whitehorse-based chef and writer. She is also somewhat of a gardener. Michele has also written two books The Boreal Feast - A Culinary Journey Through The North and The Boreal Gourmet - Adventures In Northern Cooking.
THE MUSHROOMS ARE COMING, THE MUSHROOMS ARE COMING!
Y
ou know it’s morel season when photos of grimy, grinning mushroom hunters begin to show up on social media, and the Government of Yukon posts links on its Facebook page to fire maps and tips on safe and respectful harvesting. You’ll need a license for commercial harvesting, but if you’re picking for yourself and your household, all you need is a good nose, bear spray, some buckets and drying equipment, and knowledge of where not to pick: First Nations settlement land (unless you have permission) and on private property. Be safe out there, morel fans. I’m no pro, but a couple of years ago I had good luck in the transition areas at the edges of the burn. And that is my only tip— except, there’s quiche when you get home. CARAMELIZED ONION AND MOREL MUSHROOM QUICHE
Ingredients: • Crust (enough pastry for 2 quiches made in 9-inch pans) • 2 cups all-purpose flour • 1 tsp kosher salt • 1/2 cup cold unsalted butter, diced into small cubes • 1/2 cup cold vegetable shortening, such as Crisco, frozen briefly and diced into small cubes • 3 to 4 Tbsp very cold water • Filling (enough for one quiche) • 1 Tbsp olive oil • 2 Tbsp butter, divided • 1 medium onion, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced • 1 tsp salt • 2 Tbsp sherry, port or cooking sherry* • 1/2 oz (3/4 cup) dried morel mushrooms, rehydrated in 1 cup hot water • 1 clove garlic, minced • 1 tsp soya sauce • 3 large eggs • 2/3 cup 10% cream • 1/2 tsp black pepper • 1/2 cup grated cheddar cheese
30 to 40 minutes, adding a splash of sherry whenever onions begin to stick to the pan. (You want them to stick to the pan a bit, but loosen them up before they burn.) Once onions are caramelized, pour any remaining sherry into the pan and cook until evaporated. Remove onions from the pan and reserve in a bowl. Remove morels from their soakPHOTO: Michele Genest ing liquid, squeezing them over the bowl to remove excess liquid. ReIt’s that time of year, again, when serve soaking liquid. Slice mushrooms lengthwise morel mushrooms are making into bite-sized pieces. In the same their appearance in the Yukon pan you used for the onions, melt the remaining tablespoon of butter • 1/2 cup crumbled feta cheese over medium heat. When butter *Available in the vinegar is sizzling, add morels and sauté section at the grocery store for about 5 minutes, until morels are aromatic. Add garlic, sauté Instructions: another two minutes and add soya For the crust: whisk flour sauce and half the soaking liquid. and salt together in a medium (Reserve the remainder for soups bowl, or pulse briefly in a food or gravy.) processor. Cut in butter and Turn heat to medium high and shortening with a pastry cutter or simmer rapidly until all the liquid two knives, or pulse in a has evaporated. Remove mushfood processor until butter and rooms from heat and cool. shortening are the size of peas. Whisk eggs, cream and pepper Add water, 1 tablespoon at a together in a measuring cup (makes time, stirring dough with a fork it easier to pour egg mixture into or pulsing briefly until the dough the crust). Remove quiche crust holds together when pinched from fridge. between the fingers. Form into a Preheat the oven to 425 degrees rough disc, cut in half and fahrenheit and place racks in the form each half into a disc. Wrap bottom and middle of the oven. separately and refrigerate for 30 Sprinkle grated cheddar on the minutes. bottom of the quiche crust. ArOn a floured counter or range onions evenly over top, and between two pieces of parchment scatter morels over the onions. paper, roll 1 disc out into a circle Pour the egg mixture slowly and about 11 inches. evenly into the crust, making sure Fit dough into pan, pressing morels and onions are covered. lightly. Cut away the excess dough Scatter the feta over top. with a small knife, crimp the Bake on the bottom rack for 10 edges and refrigerate while you minutes at 425 degrees fahrenheit, make the filling. then turn heat down to 375 degrees fahrenheit, move the quiche to the For the filling: heat oil and 1 middle rack and bake for a further tablespoon butter over medium 25 to 30 minutes, until top and heat in a frying pan. When crust are golden and the quiche butter is sizzling, add sliced onions doesn’t jiggle in the middle. and cook, stirring frequently, until Remove from the oven and cool onions begin to brown. Turn heat on a rack. Wait 10 minutes before down to medium low, add salt and cutting. Serve warm or at room continue to cook slowly until on- temperature. ions are uniformly brown, about Makes one 9-inch quiche. n
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