ADVERTORIAL
is this the best gastro pub in swansea? The Plough and Harrow in Murton has become the first in Swansea to earn an AA Rosette for the quality of its food. Restaurant critic Jenny White went along to investigate.
I
n my book, a true gastropub should still function as a proper pub, but should also offer something truly special on the food front, and that’s exactly what I found at the Plough and Harrow, the first in Swansea to earn an AA Rosette award. Chef-patron Nick Torrance-Jones has an impressive background running pubs in England, and knows how to place a pub at the heart of the community. From quiz nights to charity activities, the Plough and Harrow does everything a great local pub should do, but its food is worth travelling for. I liked the pub instantly: it’s homely, cosy and rustic, but smart too. Mellow lighting, happy chatter from customers and a prompt, warm welcome from the staff made an excellent first impression. There were plenty of original and interesting dishes including favourites such as chicken liver parfait or burger and chips - albeit with a classy twist or two. We began our meal with complimentary soda bread - warm, dense, crusty - perfection. My starter of pan-fried mackerel fillet with Asian salad was a fresh, zingy joy - the mackerel beautifully moist and tender, its skin crisped to perfection. The crunchy salad was alive with ginger, umami and sweetness the perfect balance. My husband’s starter was equally glorious: a baked mini Camembert with sweet-tangy grapes poached in white wine and honey, served with crispy ciabatta. Next came Gower plaice paupiettes - fillets wrapped around a Tenby crab stuffing with crispy purple sprouting broccoli and shrimp and caper butter. Again, the freshness of the ingredients shone through, as did the perfectly timed cooking and the luxurious richness of the buttery sauce. My husband demolished a gargantuan juicy burger made with Welsh wagyu beef. The addition of punchy Y Fenni cheese worked a treat, but my greatest delight was the chunky triple-cooked chips I stole from him. Supremely crisp on the outside and fluffy in the middle, they were some of the best I’ve ever tasted. I finished with lemon and poppy sponge, meringue parfait and lemon curd - here, the team’s home baking shone. The sponge was light and fresh, the parfait properly lemony, its tang softened by the addition of meringue. My husband was equally impressed with his affogato with Brecon honey ice cream and deep, rich espresso. Is this the best gastro pub in Swansea? In my book, yes. I can’t wait to go back for more.
“…GARGANTUAN JUICY BURGER MADE WITH WELSH WAGYU BEEF”
88 Oldway, Murton, Gower, Swansea SA3 3DJ 01792 234459 www.ploughandharrow.eu
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19/04/2018 14:21