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Carolyn Carver
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EDITOR
Chip Winstead
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Kristen Grace
Chris Hooks
Jon Sheldon
Mike Sleyman
Chip Winstead
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Gerald Adams
Amanda Bratcher
Sarah Christas
Carter B. Cue
Greg de Deugd
Bob Droog
Rufus Edmisten
Colby Griffin
Chris Hooks
Craig LaHoullier
Chris Liloia
Mike Raley
Lariss Runkle
SPRING FOREST • VILLAGE DISTRICT • WAKE FOREST COMING SOON TO CARY!
As one of North Carolina’s most dynamic cities, Durham blends rich history, culture, and outdoor beauty with a thriving arts and entertainment scene. Whether you're a visitor or a longtime resident, 2025 brings plenty of exciting experiences to explore. From scenic gardens to vibrant festivals, Durham offers something for everyone. Whether you're seeking outdoor adventure, family-friendly activities, or a taste of the local arts and food scene, here are ten must-see attractions and events to experience this year.
Sarah P. Duke Gardens offers breathtaking landscapes, walking trails, and themed gardens. A favorite for nature lovers, it features exotic and native plants, peaceful water features, and seasonal blooms, making it a must-visit destination year-round.
This hands-on museum is perfect for families, featuring interactive exhibits, a butterfly conservatory, and an outdoor Dinosaur Trail. Kids and adults alike will love the live animal exhibits, science demonstrations, and immersive learning experiences spread across its expansive campus.
Once a tobacco manufacturing hub, this revitalized district now boasts restaurants, shops, and entertainment venues. Walk along the preserved industrial architecture, enjoy outdoor seating by the river, and catch a live music performance in this lively gathering space.
Durham’s premier arts festival returns on September 20-21, 2025, showcasing visual artists, live music, and local food vendors. Celebrating its 50th anniversary, this festival transforms downtown Durham into a colorful hub of creativity and community spirit.
Taking place on May 17, 2025, this festival celebrates African and African American heritage through music, dance, food, and crafts. As one of Durham’s longest-running cultural events, it attracts thousands each year for a vibrant and educational experience.
Home to the famous Durham Bulls minor league baseball team, this ballpark offers an electric atmosphere with great food and family fun. Watching a game here is a classic Durham experience, complete with fan traditions and fireworks nights.
A stunning example of Gothic architecture, Duke Chapel is an iconic landmark on campus. Visitors admire its intricate stainedglass windows, massive pipe organ, and serene ambiance, making it a must-visit for history and architecture enthusiasts.
One of the top-rated performing arts centers in the country, DPAC hosts Broadway shows, concerts, and comedy acts. With state-of-the-art acoustics and world-class talent, it’s the perfect spot for an unforgettable evening of entertainment.
For outdoor enthusiasts, Eno River State Park provides miles of hiking trails, fishing spots, and picnic areas. This scenic retreat, located just minutes from downtown Durham, offers a tranquil escape into nature with breathtaking river views.
This urban green space hosts weekly farmers’ markets, food truck rodeos, and free concerts. As a cultural hotspot, it serves as a lively meeting place for locals and visitors, bringing together Durham’s creative and culinary communities year-round.
BY CARTER B. CUE
Since its founding in 1913 in the basement of Durham’s White Rock Baptist Church, later becoming the Durham Colored Library in 1916, the Stanford L. Warren Branch Library has been a hub for community engagement, literacy, and education. It also played a unique role as a meeting space for Durham’s African American garden clubs, which were part of the North Carolina Federation of Garden Clubs. This organization empowered African Americans to cultivate beauty in their homes and communities despite the era of segregation.
Though gardening literature is common in libraries, the lesser-known connection between librarians, literacy advocates, and horticultural pioneers reveals a fascinating history. Below are four remarkable individuals who bridged the
world of libraries and gardening.
Anne Spencer (1892–1975): Poet, Librarian, and Garden Advocate
Anne Spencer, a Harlem Renaissance poet and activist from Lynchburg, Virginia, was a librarian at Dunbar High School while maintaining an influential literary and gardening life. Her garden, now preserved as the Anne Spencer House and Garden Museum, was a sanctuary for Black intellectuals, including W.E.B. Du Bois, Langston Hughes, and Martin Luther King Jr. Spencer’s nature-themed poetry, such as Earth, I Thank You and God Never Planted a Garden, reflected her deep appreciation for gardening. Her legacy continues through books like Half My World: The Garden of Anne Spencer and
through recognition from the Garden Conservancy as the only active African American public garden in the U.S.
A librarian in Alabama and Ohio, Effie Lee Newsome was also a Harlem Renaissance poet known for her nature-inspired children’s column, The Little Page, in The Crisis magazine, edited by W.E.B. Du Bois. Her poetry celebrated the natural world, as seen in The Bird in the Cage and At the Pool, which resonated with birdwatchers and gardening enthusiasts. Her 1940 book Gladiola Garden, illustrated by Lois Mailou Jones, remains a notable work of African American children’s literature. Newsome’s contributions to literature and gardening are still underappreciated, though she was one of the earliest African American garden writers.
Born in Winston-Salem, North Carolina, Madie Hall Xuma championed library access for African Americans, leading to the 1926 opening of what is now the Malloy-Jordan Library in Winston-Salem. She also founded Winston-Sa-
March 28-29
lem’s first African American garden club in 1931 and, in 1935, co-founded the Federation of Negro Garden Clubs at North Carolina A&T State University. Xuma’s gardening advocacy extended internationally when she moved to South Africa, where she formed the Women’s League of the African National Congress and introduced food-producing gardens to Black communities under apartheid. Her life is chronicled in The Life of Madie Hall Xuma: Black Women’s Global Activism During Jim Crow & Apartheid.
Aurelia Franklin, wife of historian John Hope Franklin, was an accomplished librarian and orchid expert. After earning a library degree from Hampton Institute, she worked as a law and school librarian while supporting her husband's research. Her passion for orchids began in Hawaii in 1959 and grew into an impressive collection of over 800 orchids by the time she and her husband settled in Durham, North Carolina. Orchid hybridist Herman Pigors even named a variety, Phalaenopsis Aurelia Franklin, in her honor.
These women exemplify the rich intersection of libraries and gardening, fostering knowledge and beauty in their communities. Their contributions will be celebrated at the African American Legacy in Gardening and Horticulture Symposium on March 28-29, 2025, at the Hayti Heritage Center in Durham, NC. The event, free and open to the public both in-person and virtually, is sponsored by organizations including the Durham Library Foundation, Sarah P. Duke Gardens, NC State University Libraries, and WPTF Radio-680 AM.
African American Legacy in Gardening and Horticulture Symposium
BY MIKE RALEY
Miracles do happen. My 50-year career at WPTF is proof of that. I always wanted to be a broadcaster, but all of us have dreams and visions of life. Mine was realized with all of the i’s dotted and the t’s crossed. I have done everything I wanted to do in this profession and then some, except work as a news presenter for CBS Radio News. I never applied because my wife and I wanted to stay in Raleigh, and we succeeded. I was told by the great Doug Spero, who worked as a broadcast journalist at CBS and NBC and was Don Imus’s first newsman at WNBC, that he would have hired me at either network. That’s as good as getting the job for me.
I should never have been hired by Charles
Stegall and Evelyn Ramey at WPTF in April of 1975. I worked at NC State’s venerable radio station WKNC as a student at that great university, where I learned a bit about the business, but not enough to serve me well in professional broadcasting. Speaking of which, I had never pursued a real radio job until the spring of 1975. I was taking the only radio course offered at NC State, taught by the best professor I ever had, Dr. John Malcolm. We took field trips to all the area radio stations, including WPTF. There was no theory, only practical information. One day, he announced that WPTF was looking for a producer for the iconic programs “Sportsline” and “Open Line,” hosted by the legendary announcers Garry Dornburg and Bart Ritner. I applied for the
job and was hired. That should have never happened! I was not qualified, and the late, great WPTF announcer Hap Hansen told me later that 46 people applied for that job. I know God doesn't have a lot of time for me, but I had his help this time. I have no other logical way to explain it.
During the intervening 50 years, I have received what amounts to an “Ivy League” education in broadcasting. I have worked with the best of the best. You can't learn to ad-lib like the masters of gab I was lucky enough to work with, but if you listen and work hard, it may come to you. Some of those skills rubbed off on me, and I have hustled every day to hone them.
Luckily for me, I was thrown into the deep end. I had to learn to swim like the pros, or I would fail. Jobs in broadcasting are rare, and holding on to one for any length of time is a real challenge. Early on, I continued working with Garry and Bart on their shows and took on some weekend shifts. The first time I uttered a word on WPTF was during the Texaco Metropolitan Opera, where I said, “WPTF in Raleigh, North
Carolina.” What a thrill!
By 1976, I was filling in for Garry on Sportsline with a guest, of course. The great News and Observer sportswriter Caulton Tudor was a recruiting expert, and the show moved quickly. I subbed for Garry many times and later for Bart, with guests like J.C. Knowles and Joe Graedon. I was given duties on weekends, first as a boardop during a tape shift of religious programs and later actually playing disc jockey on Sunday afternoons. By 1977, I had been promoted to a fulltime position. In fact, that happened on August 16th, the day Elvis died. During that year, I started hosting a music request show called “Night Song.” It was sandwiched between “Open Line” and “Interstate 68” during the 11 p.m. hour. I gained a lot of experience doing that show, which was very much like Jimmy Capps’s famous program Our Best To You. It also carried the same name as a show Charlie Gaddy hosted in the 1960s.
In the early 1980s, Wally Ausley was the general manager and tapped me to be the mid-day
jock. By 1984, Wally had retired, and Don Curtis and Tom Campbell took over management of the station. Maury O’Dell gave up hosting the long-running “Ask Your Neighbor” talk show, and I became the host, sharing duties with Maury until 1989, when the program went off the air. Also, starting in 1984, I began my tenure as host or co-host of the “Tailgate Show” before the NC State Wolfpack football games.
I moved from one position on the air staff to another and took on Saturday morning disc jockey duties, including working with “Tar Heel Gardener” host Professor John H. Harris. That was January 1985. John retired that month after hosting the show for 40 years. He assured me I had nothing to do with his leaving; it was just time. Wake County extension agent Erv Evans then joined me to continue the show with phone calls from listeners for a whole half hour. Thus, “The Weekend Gardener” was born. The name of the show was changed out of respect for John.
Over the years, the show prospered, and we eventually expanded from 30 minutes to three hours. Erv moved on, and one of his very practiced and astute master gardeners, Anne Clapp, joined me as co-host for 30 years until retirement due to health concerns.
Over the years, the show has joined the ranks of other great programs that serve our loyal listeners. One of the most fortunate events in my career happened when former North Carolina Attorney General and Secretary of State Rufus Edmisten joined The Weekend Gardener. Rufus has added his considerable gardening knowledge and wit to help make the show even more popular.
I have been lucky to attract and befriend the best and most loyal gardeners in the state and nation to help our equally loyal listeners. People like Phil Campbell, Nelsa Cox, Pam Beck, Tony Avent, Gerald Adams, Tom Campbell, Craig LaHoullier, Toby Bost, The Victory Garden’s Jim Wilson, P. Allen Smith, and extension
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agents like Paul McKenzie, Johnny Coley, Mart Bumgarner, Lewis Howe, Shawn Gerkin, and many others over the years.
The Weekend Gardener is just part of this journey and only one day out of a six-day workweek. The rest of my time is spent in the newsroom. Journalism has been my bread and butter, the foundation of most of my career. For the last couple of decades, I have delivered the news to over 75 radio stations on the North Carolina News Network. For over 30 years, I have worked as a reporter and anchor for WPTF and delivered daily newscasts to listeners of sister stations WQDR and WKIX. I suppose that is a full plate, but despite the hours, I think I must thrive on the workload, plus writing gardening articles and other duties.
It has been an incredible, extraordinary ride that I hope to continue for a few more years. I expected to be fired at some point over the years, but
it never happened. I've received honors over the years from the Associated Press and Radio-Television News Directors Association and the Order of the Long Leaf Pine from Governor Perdue. Anne Clapp and I were thrilled beyond belief to be guests on North Carolina People with William Friday in 2006. And I was certainly overwhelmed in 2022 to be inducted into the North Carolina Association of Broadcasters Hall of Fame. I am so proud.
All of those great men and women who taught me so much are gone. But they live in the newscasts I deliver, the articles I write, and the heart of the little gardening show I love to do. I have been so blessed with the best wife, children, and grandchildren in the world, and I have survived and thrived in one tough business for the last 50 years. Now, wouldn't you say I have done everything I wanted to do and then some? Everyone should be so lucky!
BY MIKE RALEY
The first time I remember hearing the words witch hazel was in an episode of The Andy Griffith Show, which seems rather fitting. The show often referenced trips to Floyd’s Barbershop, where a little witch hazel cologne was used to top off a haircut and shave. Ironically, Andy Griffith was a North Carolina native, and witch hazel is a native shrub or small tree. Hamamelis virginiana originates from Virginia but is found throughout the eastern U.S. There are also Chinese, Japanese, and “Ozark” varieties.
I have a witch hazel in my landscape that has been growing for five years. It has an unusual shape, growing more upright than outward at a slow pace. Although it's planted in a fairly sunny spot, I believe it would thrive even more in full sun, which would encourage more blooms—the main reason I planted it, rather than for its medicinal properties. Witch hazel prefers moist soil, which can sometimes be hard to maintain, but it also requires well-draining soil, so avoid low-lying areas. Fortunately, it can adapt to clay soil, which is common along the eastern seaboard, and it prefers acidic conditions. However, witch hazel does not tolerate drought well.
If you're serious about growing witch hazel, proper planting is key. Start with a sharp shovel—preferably a long, slim planting spade. Dig a hole as deep as the root ball and twice as wide. Before covering the root ball, add some water— especially if planting during a dry period—as well as some aggregate material to aid drainage. Fill the hole with plenty of organic matter and native soil.
Depending on the cultivar, witch hazel blooms from late fall into early spring. A happy plant produces better blooms, and that’s the main reason to grow one! The flowers have a stringy, spider-like appearance, resembling small bee balm blooms. They range in color from yellow
and orange to red, depending on the variety. The most common nursery variety is Arnold’s Promise, known for its bright yellow, prolific blooms. Other great options include Jelena and Copper Beauty, while Diane offers a red bloom. Additional choices include Amethyst, Harvest Moon, Pallida, Ruby Glow, and Lombart’s Weeping, which stays compact at about five feet tall and ten feet wide, producing orange-red flowers. A particularly small variety, Little Suzy, reaches just four to five feet tall and wide, with fragrant yellow blooms.
One of the best things about witch hazel is its reliability, especially the native varieties. An added bonus? It’s relatively pest-free, with only a few insects or diseases that affect it. Even deer tend to leave it alone.
If you plant witch hazel in the right location with proper light and care, it should thrive without much trouble. So, why not add one of these unique specimens to your landscape? You might just find yourself, like the bootlegging Morrison sisters from The Andy Griffith Show, unable to get enough of its delightful fragrance!
I mean c’mon. This place is utterly amazing! The variety is outta control! If you can’t find it here, you’re either not looking hard enough or it doesn’t exist. And don’t get me started on their prices. From what I can see… they propagate their own stuff and pass the saving on to working class heroes like me which I’m forever grateful for.
-Mike
It was definitely worth the drive —especially for the perennials. Loved all the native plant options too. But they really had a great selection of everything else too.
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A huge selection of healthy and well priced plants. You’ll find things here hard to find elsewhere. The staff are friendly and helpful, and you could spend an after just soaking up all the inventory they have to offer. They have everything from houseplants, to fruit trees to perennials.
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Wonderful selection of flowers, trees, and shrubs. The customer service was perfect! Can't wait for my next visit
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BY RUFUS EDMISTEN
Among the other wonderful gifts of spring, there is sometimes a fleeting, almost magical feeling that each perfect day is as fresh and promising as the first. What is it about this season that makes us feel this way?
It is the plethora of newly emerging growing things, tender and green in the chilly air, lit up by the clear, warm, gentle sunshine. It is the promise of a long, cool, crisp day stretching out from sunrise to sunset, without a trace of the oppressive heat and humidity of summer. It is the papery whisper of the outer bark of our ancient crape myrtles shivering in the light breeze—these trees that have stood sentry for so long that nobody living remembers their planting. It is the tiny but mighty green sprouts pushing through the rich, sable soil all over our gardens.
Then there are the critters set free from winter’s doldrums, zipping and zigzagging all over the landscape, for good and for bad. The first that come to mind are the squirrels, those pesky little comedians that may or may not have caught wind of the vicious rumor that I may have hunted their forbears in my youth. I must confess: I never bagged one with my rifle. They are certainly good at distributing seeds like acorns and pecans that sprout new trees every year. But I have also seen them eat peony buds like apples and chomp prized rose buds with joyous abandon. Having cultivated these lovely plants hoping to see their blooms unfurl in the sunshine, I am not feeling that joy along with them.
But there are times when their antics are fun-
ny. We maintain a chilly détente, given their dietary predilections and my habit of having a doggy or two around the place. This brings to mind a wistful topic that stands in contrast to the breezy joy of the season of awakening.
Good dog Jasper is no longer with us, and he is sorely missed. His contagious joy as he galloped and scampered the grounds, as full of excitement as only a dog can be when he’s running free, his highly satisfying torment of the squirrels, and his smiling face in the evening—sweet eyes getting sleepy from the long fun day—all these things and more enriched our lives for many years. And yet, not enough years. I do not think there could ever have been enough years.
We have talked about adopting another pup, but no time has seemed quite right. Jasper dog loved the spring and added to our joy in all the other seasons too. It is uncanny how memories of our canine companions reverberate in our gardens long after they are gone from us.
A large part of the joy of spring is carrying out the plans we dreamed up all winter long. This year, we plan to swap out some of our Knockout floribunda roses with some old-fashioned hybrid teas, time-tested floribundas, and other gems still to be determined. The Knockouts have served us well—it is a hardy, forgiving variety that is beautiful and dependable. It is just fun to change things up from time to time.
I have always loved the Peace rose, a relatively hardy hybrid tea rose for our zones that has been a mainstay of many gardens for many years. We
"A large part of the joy of spring is carrying out the plans we dreamed up all winter long."
will have some of those for sure. I would also like to plant some other old-fashioned hybrid tea roses, the fragrant kind with the high centers and long stems. It might be time to get some classic Don Juan climbers too. This red, classic-form rose is relatively hardy here in Piedmont, North Carolina. It is lightly fragrant, with velvety petals that hold up. It outgrows black spot pretty well, so it does not need a lot of fungicide and does not seem to be the aphids’ favorite. Papa Meilland is another lovely red rose, a classic, high-centered hybrid tea with a strong fragrance.
I am also tempted by some of the full, quartered, luscious-scented old garden roses. Rather than the high-centered form of the hybrid teas, these plants feature cupped blooms with layers of lovely petals. They nod on their stems, heavy with fragrance and lovely of form. There are some new cultivars that have the full-blown beauty of these old roses along with the hardiness of other roses. Catalogs with delicious photos of these beauties populated my sitting room and excited my imag-
ination during the long, cold winter.
I might even invest in some ladybugs to protect my precious choices. These cuties eat aphids like I might eat a juicy red apple. They often appear just as the aphids do and disappear just as swiftly. Cartons of the colorful ladybugs can be purchased at local nurseries or ordered online to help the locals battle the hungry aphids.
For now, I’ve planted over three hundred bulbs—daffodils, tulips, grape hyacinths, and a few other varieties—and I have planted some of them in random places so that they will surprise me when they bloom. I also tucked a few behind taller plants and some among banks of other varieties, counting on forgetting all about them until I stumble upon them later when they bloom and get a nice surprise.
As with many of you, my garden is my treasured playground, just waiting to receive the beauties of my winter imaginings. Here’s hoping that all of you are enjoying dressing up your chilly gardens as much as I am this spring.
BY PAUL MCKENZIE GARDENING TIPS & ADVICE
Let’s consider the term “gardener.” Do you consider yourself one? Is it a term reserved for those who dig in the dirt daily, whose yards are covered in blossoms, herbs, and fruits?
Here’s my take: If you own or are responsible for even a small plot of land that contains plants and you make even a minimal effort to care for them, then you are a gardener. The clear goal of the Weekend Gardener radio show is to help you become a better and more efficient one.
One of the most effective ways to do that is to make better use of shrubbery. Here’s why. Every spot where you plant a shrub is where you don’t have to weed or mow, irrigate, or (if you do your research) spray. Every flowering shrub you plant is a splash of color that doesn’t need to be deadheaded, staked, or fertilized twice a year.
That said, an improperly chosen shrub can become a major problem. In my 25-plus-year career as an Extension Agent, I was frequently asked
to recommend a shrub for a certain situation, and more often than not, the asker used the term “fast-growing” to describe their needs.
That’s the criteria that’s most likely to lead to a “major problem” outcome.
Most people who ask about a fast-growing shrub are looking for something that can be purchased cheaply and will grow quickly to the desired size, usually around six to eight feet tall. And then, stop growing. And the shrub bursts out laughing.
In fact, most fast-growing shrubs get quite large at maturity, some up to 50 feet tall or more. In most cases, they get too large for the allotted space, especially on small urban lots. Thus, the options are to prune aggressively and frequently or to face a huge removal job a few years down the road. Think in terms of chainsaws and pickup trucks and trailers full of branches that have to be hauled off.
If, as I suggest, you choose a shrub because you want to garden more efficiently, then you want something that grows slowly to reach a mature size that can be easily maintained with light, infrequent pruning.
Yes, for many shrubs their best life is providing a serene backdrop or hiding yourself from the neighbors or softening the edges of your home. But there are countless examples of shrubs that can provide blasts of color in the form of bold blossoms or cascades of berries. Some can bloom
plants.ces.ncsu.edu
at unexpected times. Others have foliage with fascinating variegation in shades of gold or white or yellow.
The NC Extension Plant Toolbox is the definitive resource for finding such interesting and beautiful shrubbery. It’s an online database of over 4500 plants, searchable by criteria such as bloom color, size, growth rate, flower color, and much more. It provides great detail about each one, with lots of photos. Find it at plants.ces. ncsu.edu
BY GERALD ADAMS
Iwill soon start my sixth year of selling vegetable plants at the State Farmer’s Market.
During this time I have learned many things about the demand for tomato plants. Perhaps the most surprising to me is the demand for small fruited tomatoes. I include grape, cherry, plum and frankly any tomato smaller than a golf ball into this category.
In full disclosure, I must admit that I’m a large slicing tomato snob. 98% of my tomato consumption is tomato sandwiches. Whether it’s one slice from a 12-ounce tomato or larger and sometimes 2 slices side by side from a 6-ounce tomato, I’m a Tomato Sandwich Lover. Despite my original bias, I have been extremely surprised at the demand for small fruited tomatoes.
Besides the obvious (people like eating tomatoes in salads or just for snacking), I think there are several reasons for this high demand. Tomatoes ripen quicker the smaller the fruit. A marble-sized tomato will ripen four weeks earlier than a large slicing tomato. That’s four weeks less of dodging tomato diseases and other potential problems before picking that first fruit.
Generally speaking, the smaller the fruit size at maturity, the more fruit a plant will produce. Most cherry and grape tomatoes will produce hundreds and hundreds of fruit. With this prolific production, even if you were to have a mediocre season, you will still produce a decent number of fruit. With big slicing tomatoes, if you have a poor season, you can probably count your
entire production on one hand. I think because small fruited tomatoes produce more fruit and much quicker, they have earned the disclaimer of being easier to grow than large slicing tomatoes. When you have limited planting space, people want to maximize production. I have greatly increased the number of varieties of small fruited tomatoes and the total number of plants that I grow each and every year. I would like to discuss some of my favorite small fruited tomatoes. By now everyone has probably heard of Sungold. It’s an orange fat marbled sized hybrid variety from Japan. They taste like a real tomato and grow a huge plant with hundreds and hundreds of fruit. It’s been the number one small fruited tomato seller for me every year and number two overall seller behind only Cherokee Purple.
When heirloom tomato freaks like me plant a hybrid, that should tell you all you need to know. I’ll have at least 40 different small fruited varieties this season. Here are some more you might not have heard about that I highly recommend.
Black Cherry is a ping pong ball sized fruit that looks and tastes like Cherokee Purple. Chocolate Sprinkles is a brown with green specks that has the Cherokee Purple flavor profile. Tomato sugar content is measured on the Brix Scale. Sugar Rush, a red cherry, and Sugary, a red grape, both have a higher Brix rating than Sweet
Million or Super Sweet 100. Candyland Red is another cherry with a high Brix rating.
Two older heirloom varieties that I like are Mexico Midget (a very small red cherry) and yellow pear. I highly recommend the Bumblebee series—Pink Bumblebee, Purple Bumblebee, and Sunrise Bumblebee—which are golf ball sized and will not disappoint. For a smaller plant, I’ll suggest two of my own creations. Little Henry is a yellow/red/orange ping pong ball sized fruit on a four-foot-tall plant. Little Henry Yellow is a pale yellow version with the same sized fruit. If you have questions, you can contact me at my email below.
geraldandhenrysplants@gmail.com
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BY MIKE RALEY
What would we do without Japanese maples in the landscape? They are not native to North Carolina, but the Japanese maple kingdom is vast, and they seem to be content in North Carolina from the mountains to the shore. Yes, some varieties are more suited to some regions than others. There have been books written on the subject, so we will summarize a bit.
The Japanese maple is native to the south… south Japan and Korea, of course, where you will find them growing in the wild. Simply put, there are two main species of Japanese maple: red and green. They are all colorful and come in several shapes and sizes. They give us year-round interest, both weeping and upright varieties that
produce vibrant red and orange hues in the fall. One of the things I love to do on my daily walks in autumn is to look for the varied coloration of the leaves at their height of brilliance. They can be extraordinary!
In the spring and summer, the leaves can be a familiar red, a luscious green, or a cultivar with yellow, bronze, and even purple with green or red stems to boot. Many varieties of Japanese maple are grafted, especially the weeping, socalled “cutleaf” cultivars we are so familiar with in home landscapes and public gardens. It can be an understory tree, but, in my opinion, most of these remarkable trees should be displayed in a prime spot in your yard. You may even plant some varieties in a large container.
Some people love Japanese maples because they grow relatively slowly, but others wish they would speed it up a bit. Plant these beauties in light shade. Plant in a spot with morning sun and afternoon shade. Other plants, like lilacs, also share that characteristic. They should settle into a spot in well-drained soil. Sometime I’m going to write about a plant that enjoys wet soil!
As with pretty much all trees and shrubs, the bottom of their resting place should not be deeper than the root ball’s length. The hole should be twice the diameter of the root ball. Add some composted material like Black Kow, water the plant well, and cover with native soil. Tamp it down well to prevent air pockets in the soil, which can prevent good drainage and ruin the roots. They prefer a neutral pH but will take some acidity in the soil.
Japanese maples may suffer from sun, leaf scorch, wind, or drought damage. They can have problems with fungal diseases, wilts, Japanese beetles, and aphids. A few other problems might creep up; but, Japanese maples are resilient if you keep them happy.
As for Japanese maple varieties, there are way too many to list here. There are palmatum and dissectum, and all kinds of subgroups including dwarf and variegated Japanese maples.
My favorite is the Sango Kaku coral bark specimen. You can give this one more sun because the red bark of the new growth will get redder in a sun-drenched landscape. It is slow-growing and will reach 20 feet tall and 15 feet wide. This cultivar has light green leaves in spring and summer and brilliant yellow leaves in the fall.
If you prefer the maroon leaf varieties and want something a little closer to a shade tree, you should try a Bloodgood. It will grow to a height of 30 feet or more.
Probably the most popular dissected cutleaf variety is the Crimson Queen. It weeps and can eventually reach a slow-growing height of 10 feet.
The Shishigashira is another upright variety that produces green leaves with purple-red fall color. It is called the “lion’s mane” because of its
growth habits and makes, I’m told, a good bonsai specimen. It can grow to a height of 20 feet.
I would love to have a Kiyohime variety for its green leaves that have gorgeous purple-red borders. It can reach a height of 3 feet and a width of 7 feet in maybe 10 years. It grows very slowly. This one can live nicely in a container and may also be a good bonsai specimen.
Summer Gold has a red border too. There is a new variety called Baton Rouge that has red stems and green leaves. It has also been found to be extremely heat tolerant. It was discovered near Houston, Texas, and may reach a height of 12 feet in 10 years.
Again, there are so many varieties from which to choose when it comes to the stellar family of Japanese maples. Spend some time choosing the right one or two for your landscape. But that’s part of the fun of it all. The Raulston Arboretum in Raleigh, Sarah P. Duke Gardens in Durham, and any other public garden in the state will have multiple varieties, each with unique characteristics.
Check them out and then visit a locally owned nursery for help picking out the Japanese maple that will become the talk of the neighborhood.
BY CRAIG LAHOULLIER A GARDENER’S GUIDE FOR SUCCESS
The centerpiece of most home gardens—and the pride of many gardeners—is the tomato. While many gardeners are happy to buy seasonal favorites like strawberries, blueberries, corn, or melons from farmers’ markets, homegrown tomatoes hold a special place in the heart. Songs have been written about them, and their arrival each spring is eagerly anticipated. With so many varieties now available, tomatoes bring excitement, satisfaction, and occasionally, frustration to those who grow them.
As heat, humidity, and heavy thunderstorms increase in our region, understanding what makes tomato plants happy is crucial for a successful harvest. Here’s what tomato plants truly enjoy—because happy tomato plants mean happy gardeners.
Planting tomato seedlings into chilly spring soil won’t kill or injure them, but they certainly won’t thrive. Tomatoes prefer warm roots for rapid growth. With a long growing season ahead, there’s no need to rush. In fact, seedlings planted a few weeks later—when the soil is warmer—often catch up and surpass those planted earlier into cold soil.
Forget the internet myths that suggest withholding water enhances tomato flavor. The variety of the tomato—not water stress—determines taste. Depriving tomato plants of water almost guarantees blossom end rot, a condition caused
by stress and calcium deficiency. Watering needs vary depending on how the plants are grown:
• Garden soil retains more moisture, requiring less frequent watering.
• Containers and straw bales dry out faster and need more water.
Monitor the plants for signs of thirst, but avoid watering based on mid-day wilting, as this can be temporary heat stress rather than true dehydration.
Tomatoes hate wet feet. Heavy clay soil often drains poorly, trapping water beneath the surface. If tomato plants appear wilted despite recent watering or rain, this could indicate poor drainage. When preparing planting holes, test how quickly water drains—if it sits in the hole for hours, you may need to amend the soil with compost or sand or consider planting in raised beds.
Tomatoes are hungry plants that need regular feeding. Use fertilizers with adequate nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (look for the N-P-K ratio on labels) to ensure healthy growth.
A pre-season soil test can help determine if additional amendments are needed. Signs of nutrient deficiencies include:
• Pale or discolored leaves
• Poor flower production or fruit set
• Slow growth or weak stems
Providing the right balance of nutrients will keep plants vigorous and productive.
Tomatoes are not a plant-and-forget crop. They require regular observation to stay healthy.
• Weeds compete for nutrients and provide hiding spots for pests.
• Foliage changes can indicate nutrient deficiencies, pest issues, or watering problems.
• Blemishes on fruit may signal disease or environmental stress.
Frequent check-ins allow gardeners to catch problems early and ensure a successful harvest.
Growing tomatoes can be one of the most rewarding gardening experiences. With the right care, the journey is just as enjoyable as the delicious destination. Enjoy the process—and the homegrown flavor!
BY COLBY GRIFFIN POLLINATORS & CONSERVATION
There are many important native pollinators within your home landscape. One you may not be familiar with is the mason bee. The mason bee is one of over 4000 species of native bees in the United States and North Carolina is home to 560 species of these bees. Mason bees begin to emerge in early to mid-March each year. Unlike the more well-known honeybee, mason bees are more efficient pollinators. They are active in pollinating plants even during cool and wet conditions. The honeybee is most active during dry conditions and when temperatures exceed 50 degrees. Plus, mason bees and other native pollinators will visit certain plants that honeybees don’t forage. Other examples of native bees are the digger bee, leafcutter bee, squash
bee, sweat bee, and of course the bumblebee. The mason bee differs from a honeybee in that it carries pollen on its back rather than on its hind legs. Most native and mason bees are solitary, cavity-dwelling bees meaning they do not live in hives with most nesting in tunnels within the ground or in plant stems and other cavities. All female mason bees are solitary queens. Each female performs all the duties that an entire honeybee hive might undertake such as gathering pollen and nectar and laying eggs. She lays her eggs in reeds and natural holes found in the landscape. Female mason bees ensure that her eggs are protected by sealing the entrance hole with mud. Mason bees build their nests near one another; however, there is no sharing of nests.
These bees do not forage for miles like honeybees; mason bees only travel about 300 feet from their nest to gather pollen and nectar. Another native pollinator is the carpenter bee. If you have any type of wood around your home, then you’ve probably noticed the carpenter bee searching for a place to make their nests. This becomes an issue when they choose your house or other wood structure on your property. Carpenter bees are solitary bees and are not aggressive. The males can’t sting, and the females may only sting if handled. They emerge in April and May with the males usually the first to appear. Males can be distinguished from females by a whitish spot on the front of their face. However, folks find them intimidating because of their large size and loud buzzing. Carpenter bees usually won’t cause serious damage, but yearly infestations can weaken wood structures and make them unsightly. The galleries typically run six to seven inches but may exceed one foot. Occasionally, several bees use the same entrance hole, but they have individual galleries branching off the main tunnel. If the same entrance hole is used for several years, tunnels may extend several feet in the wood. The female bee collects pollen which she mixes with nectar to form a ball that will serve as food for her offspring. She deposits an egg near this pollen ball and then seals off this section of tunnel with a partition made of chewed wood. She constructs additional cells in this manner until the tunnel is filled, usually with six to seven cells. These adult bees die in a matter of weeks. The eggs hatch in a few days and the offspring complete their development in about 5 to 7 weeks. The new generation of adult bees begin to emerge in later summer. Although the bees remain active, feeding on pollen in the general area, they do not construct new tunnels, but may be seen cleaning out old tunnels which they will use as overwintering sites when the weather turns cold. They are attracted to unpainted and weathered wood and prefer cypress or pine. Painted and pressure treated woods aren’t as likely to become a host for the bees. The
adults will overwinter in the wood inside the old nest tunnels. They emerge in spring to mate and make new tunnels to lay eggs. Due to the damage to wood surfaces cause by carpenter bees, many folks are interested in control methods. However, carpenter bees are native, beneficial insects and deterrence should be the preferred method of action.
There are many different species of plants to encourage not only essential nesting sites for native bees but also a source for nectar and pollen. Some of these include, Echinacea sp. (coneflower), Monarda sp. (beebalm), Agastache sp. (anise hyssop), Helianthus sp. (sunflower), Pycanthemum sp. (mountain mints), and Trifolium repens (Dutch white clover).
An excellent resource for identification of bees is, The Bees of North Carolina: An Identification Guide, and is accessible online for free through NC State Extension.
BY MIKE RALEY
One of the most economical and practical things you can do for your landscape and vegetable garden is to start a compost pile. Over the last 40 years, we’ve frequently discussed this topic on the WPTF Weekend Gardener, and for good reason—composting enriches soil, reduces waste, and improves plant health.
The first step is choosing the right location. Find a shady, well-drained spot in your backyard. You can either purchase a ready-made bin (plastic or wood) from a local nursery or build your own. Simple DIY options include:
• A wire cylinder, three to four feet in diameter
• A three-sided wooden bin, about four to five feet tall and wide
To start your compost pile, begin with a sixinch layer of “brown” organic matter, followed by
a two- to three-inch layer of “green” organic matter. Layering these materials correctly is essential for proper decomposition.
Good compost materials include:
BROWN (CARBON-RICH MATERIALS)
• Hay, straw, pine needles, and leaves
• Sawdust and wood chips
• Dried flowers and plant trimmings
GREEN (NITROGEN-RICH MATERIALS)
• Vegetable and fruit scraps
• Eggshells and stale bread
• Coffee grounds and tea bags
• Manure from cows, chickens, or turkeys
Avoid adding the following materials to your compost pile:
• Meat, fish, bones, dairy, and oils, as they attract pests like rats and raccoons.
• Weeds that have gone to seed or spread by roots, as they can reappear in your garden.
• Diseased or insect-infested plants, since some pests and diseases may survive the composting process.
• Grass clippings treated with herbicides, as chemicals can linger and harm plants.
A properly built compost pile will heat up to high temperatures, which helps kill off some pests and weed seeds, but it is not a guaranteed solution. To be safe, stick to organic materials that will break down easily.
Layering – Keep alternating brown and green layers, watering each layer lightly as you go. Continue stacking layers until the pile reaches four to five feet high.
Moisture Balance – Your compost should be moist but not soggy. If it is too dry, it will not decompose properly. If it is too wet, it can develop an unpleasant odor.
Turning the Pile – Within a few days, start blending the layers together. Turn the pile regu-
larly using a garden fork:
• Remove the outer layers and set them aside.
• Move the inner layers to another spot, placing the previously outer layers in the center.
• Repeat this process to ensure even decomposition and aeration.
Your compost is finished when it is dark, crumbly, and cool to the touch. It should have an earthy smell and no longer resemble its original materials.
The time it takes to produce finished compost varies from six weeks to one year, depending on factors such as temperature, moisture, and aeration.
Composting is a practical and rewarding way to improve your garden. With a little effort, you can create nutrient-rich soil while reducing waste. If you have success, call WPTF Weekend Gardener and share your composting experiences—we would love to hear about them.
BY MIKE RALEY
The truth is, mondo grass (Ophiopogon japonicus), also known as lilyturf, is actually a member of the asparagus family. While it is not native to North Carolina, it makes a wonderful addition to the landscape as a perennial ground cover.
First, let’s clear up a common misconception— mondo grass is not liriope, often referred to as “monkey grass.” Taller varieties of mondo grass are generally shorter than liriope, with narrower leaves that range from green to black. In summer (July through September), mondo grass produces smaller lavender, purple, or white flowers, followed by bluish—not black—berries. It typically requires less maintenance than liriope but does need more water and thrives in shaded areas. There’s also a dwarf variety, which has become a cult favorite in landscaping—more on that later.
Liriope, on the other hand, prefers sun to partial shade, but both plants can be used in bor-
ders, on slopes, or even in garden beds. Does that help clear things up?
Mondo grass prefers rich soil—if you can find that around here! However, it adapts well to clay or sandy soil when mixed with organic matter. It also likes moist, slightly acidic to neutral soil, but don’t stress if conditions aren’t perfect—it’s quite adaptable. My friends in the extension service say that mondo grass grows best in consistently moist soil—good luck with that! Personally, I’ve found it to be quite resilient. It can even grow under large trees with extensive root systems. That got your attention, didn’t it?
Mondo grass will tolerate full sun, but you’ll need to supplement with extra water—somewhat counterintuitive for a plant typically chosen for low-maintenance landscaping.
The best time to plant mondo grass is in fall or early spring. I prefer fall since our September, October, and November temperatures are usually warm enough for good root establishment. If planting in spring, do so well in advance of the summer heat.
Standard mondo grass is relatively maintenance-free. Like liriope, it benefits from a trim using a weed trimmer or mower in late winter before new growth appears. You can also propagate it easily by dividing large clumps.
Mondo grass is generally pest-free, though fungal issues like anthracnose may arise. Ensuring good drainage and air circulation should keep these problems at bay.
Several cultivars of standard mondo grass are available, including:
• Aureovariegatus
• Variegatus Caeruleus
• Vittatus
But my personal favorite is the dwarf mondo grass (Ophiopogon japonicus ‘Nana’). It’s versatile, reliable, and does well in moist, well-draining soil with partial shade. Once established, it
becomes fairly drought-resistant. In summer and early fall, it produces tiny flowers followed by berries.
Dwarf mondo grass is fantastic for lining walkways, planting between stepping stones, or even as a lawn substitute. A neighbor of mine has taken this approach—he spent years mapping out areas under his pine and maple trees, creating pathways and naturalized zones. He carefully removes fallen pine straw, allowing the dwarf mondo grass to flourish while interspersing underplantings and stepping stones. The result? A low-maintenance, naturalistic landscape that mimics a grass lawn without the upkeep.
However, keep in mind that dwarf mondo grass spreads slowly—it won’t aggressively take over like some ground covers or rhizome lawn grasses. If you’re using it for large areas, be prepared to plant quite a bit to start with.
Mondo grass may not be native, but it’s an incredibly useful, creative, and practical addition to any landscape. Whether you’re looking for a unique ground cover, a low-maintenance lawn alternative, or a way to enhance your garden’s design, mondo grass offers a versatile and visually appealing solution.
BY MIKE RALEY
It may not be the showiest camellia, but Camellia sinensis is certainly one of the most interesting—and possibly the most widely grown camellia in the world. Why? Because this is the tea plant, the very species used to produce some of the world’s most popular teas.
There are two major varieties: Chinese Camellia sinensis-sinensis and Indian Camellia sinensis-assamica. The Chinese variety is more cold-hardy and is the type most commonly grown in the Piedmont region. The Indian variety is better suited for warmer climates.
Tea farms exist throughout the Southeast, including North Carolina. One well-known operation is the Charleston Tea Garden near historic Charleston, South Carolina, which welcomes visitors. Closer to home, the extraordinary Camellia Forest Tea Gardens near Chapel Hill is
renowned for its work in developing and selling camellia varieties. Their collection of tea-producing camellias is unmatched in the region. The experts at Camellia Forest not only cultivate tea plants but also teach visitors how to grow, harvest, and brew black, green, and other teas.
Personally, I drink English Breakfast tea every day to clear the cobwebs, so I’m a black tea man. Green teas, however, are currently in fashion and are said to have numerous health benefits.
If you’re serious about growing Camellia sinensis for tea, you should plant several shrubs. Light pruning in early spring encourages new growth, which is ideal for green tea, while older leaves are typically used for black tea. There are many ways to process homegrown tea leaves, and plenty of resources online outline the steps. It’s said to be a fairly easy process, though I haven’t
been industrious enough to try it myself. If you do, let me know how it goes!
According to my knowledgeable friends at the North Carolina Cooperative Extension, Camellia sinensis is as easy to grow as any other camellia cultivar. Surprisingly, it can be grown in full sun. A visit to the Charleston tea farm will reveal acres of camellias thriving in direct sunlight. The plant is generally drought- and heat-tolerant.
The leaves are small, dark green, and slightly crinkled, with serrated edges and a leathery texture. I find them quite attractive. The blooms are very different from the showier sasanqua or japonica camellias. Instead of large, ruffled petals, Camellia sinensis produces small, delicate flowers in fall and winter, with off-white petals and yellow stamens. There is also a cultivar called ‘Rosea’, which has pink flowers. If the blooms arrive early enough in the season, bees love them.
M. sinensis grows 10 to 15 feet tall and 6 to 10 feet wide, making it a good option for hedges or screening plants. If you plan to harvest tea leaves, be mindful of pruning times—always prune after the shrub has finished blooming. Like other camellias, it prefers acidic soil with a pH of 5.5 or lower.
For planting, follow the standard camellia method:
• Dig a hole as deep as the root ball and twice as wide.
• Make sure the top of the root ball sits slightly above ground level.
• Fill the hole with native soil and organic matter such as soil conditioner, Black Kow, or Daddy Pete’s.
• Apply three inches of hardwood mulch or pine straw around the base.
Fertilize in spring with a low-nitrogen, slow-release fertilizer. Many gardeners still swear by cottonseed meal, a traditional favorite.
As for pests and diseases, Camellia sinensis faces the same challenges as other camellias. Anne Clapp often mentioned scale, aphids, and the occasional fungal issue, but in general, camellias are very easy to grow. There are some incredibly old specimens thriving in the Triangle area, proving their resilience.
So, why not take a cue from Rufus Edmisten and our many “Weekend Gardener” listeners? Be an intrepid gardener, plant a Camellia sinensis in your landscape, and maybe—just maybe—you’ll be enjoying homegrown tea for two!
BY AMANDA BRATCHER, N.C. COOPERATIVE EXTENSION - LEE COUNTY
Akeen eye makes a good gardener. It also makes a good scientist. Observation is a gardener’s most important tool, because the plants and animals we take care of in our gardens don’t read the books we write about them! It is important to watch how the weather turns, understand how our plants and the animals that interact with them change through the seasons, and know when to cut something here or plant something there. This valuable skill and real knowledge can benefit the greater science community beyond the garden gate by participating in citizen science projects!
The concept of ‘citizen science’ has been around for more than a decade and as a tool has ebbed and flowed in popularity in the science community. Citizen science is the involvement of the public in scientific research, whether community-driven research or global investigations (Citizen Science Association, 2023). Usually, scientists set up a project and ask the general public to help collect and/or analyze data. These projects are not limited to just traditional “science” fields, but include humanities and social sciences, as well!
The Great Southeast Pollinator Census came to North Carolina in 2023! It is a two-day, eventbased citizen science project where participants collect data on August 22 or August 23 (for 2025) using a simple data sheet to observe pollinators on one plant in their community. The observation period is 15 minutes and then the participant enters the data on the Census website. Super simple! It can be done anywhere where a plant is flowering and pollinators are visiting it!
There is a free webinar on Thursday, August 14, 2025, to learn more about how to participate and educate yourself about insects. The Census was originally the Great Georgia Pollinator Census, and was developed by Dr. Becky Griffin at UGA Extension. It now includes Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, and Florida.
"Imagine a world without the vibrant colors of butterflies flitting from flower to flower, the gentle hum of bees busily collecting pollen, or the sweet melodies of birdsong. This may seem
far-fetched, but the reality is that pollinators are facing serious threats, and their decline could have a devastating impact on our ecosystems and our food supply.
That's why participating in the Great Southeast Pollinator Census is so important. By dedicating just 15 minutes of your time to observe pollinators visiting a flowering plant, you're not just collecting data; you're actively supporting these vital creatures. Your observations will contribute to valuable scientific research that helps scientists understand the challenges facing pollinators and develop strategies to protect them.
The benefits extend beyond scientific research, too. The Census offers a unique opportunity to connect with nature and learn more about the incredible biodiversity that exists right in your own backyard. You'll gain a deeper appreciation for the intricate web of life that surrounds us and discover the fascinating world of insects up close.
Furthermore, the Census can inspire you to become a more active steward of the environ-
ment. Witnessing the beauty and diversity of pollinators firsthand may motivate you to create a pollinator-friendly garden, plant native flowers, and make other choices that support these essential creatures.
You can spread the word about the Census in your communities and on social media. Tell your friends, family, and neighbors about the Great Southeast Pollinator Census and encourage them to participate. If you create a haven for pollinators in your own backyard by planting flowers that are native to your region, you will have a homegrown place to do the Census! Few things are more impactful than grassroots organizing, so you can choose to organize a Census event in your own community to get people excited about pollinators and citizen science.
By working together, we can help ensure a healthy future for pollinators and the plants they depend on. Let's make the next Great Southeast Pollinator Census a success!
BY MIKE RALEY PERENNIAL GARDENING WITH HELLEBORES
Rufus Edmisten—one of my best friends and an iconic figure in North Carolina politics—is also well known for his gardening expertise. Among the many plants in his landscape, one of his favorites is the Lenten rose, also known as Christmas rose or simply helleborus. Despite its common name, the Lenten rose is not a rose at all, but rather a member of the buttercup family, closely related to peonies.
Before we go any further, a word of caution: Hellebores are toxic to humans, dogs, and cats if ingested. However, that same toxicity makes them unappealing to deer, rabbits, and voles, making them an excellent addition to gardens prone to wildlife damage. Some people may experience mild skin irritation from contact with the leaves, though I’ve never met a hellebore gardener who’s had an issue.
At WPTF Weekend Gardener, we often discuss plants that provide year-round interest, and
hellebores are one of the best choices for winter color. While bulbs and certain shrubs can add seasonal appeal, hellebores thrive in the colder months, blooming when little else does.
Hellebores are easy to grow, especially in shady areas. However, they can also tolerate partial sun, as long as they aren’t exposed to harsh afternoon heat. These perennials prefer welldrained soil but require consistent moisture. They are low-maintenance, needing little pruning or special care. While traditional varieties produce subtle, muted blooms that blend into the winter landscape, newer hybrids offer larger, more vibrant flowers—though many of these cultivars are sterile and won’t spread.
Native to parts of Europe, Northern Africa, and Turkey, hellebores thrive in North Carolina’s mountains and Piedmont regions. Their glossy green foliage stays attractive year-round, while the delicate bell-shaped flowers appear in
winter, lingering well into spring. Traditional varieties self-seed, meaning you may find them popping up in unexpected places. If needed, they can be propagated by dividing clumps in spring.
Hellebores are generally pest-resistant, though they can occasionally attract aphids, snails, slugs, or fungal issues. In my experience, these problems are rarely significant enough to cause con-
Rufus has shared many Lenten roses over the years with friends and Weekend Gardener listeners. Once established, hellebores naturalize easily, ensuring a steady supply for gardeners to enjoy and share. If you’re looking for a hardy, winter-blooming perennial, hellebores are a fantastic addition to any landscape.
BY CHRIS LILOIA, NORTH CAROLINA BOTANICAL GARDEN
Native viburnums are an appealing group of understory shrubs. They’re part of the landscape layer beneath smaller trees that can help give form and depth to a shady garden and create eye level habitat for birds. Their white flowers are pleasing, though not always sweetly scented, and are followed by clusters of fruit which are in some cases even showier than the flowers. These fruits are consumed by songbirds and mammals, sometimes including adventurous people. The plants are noted for a wide variety of colorful responses to autumn. The group includes multi-stemmed shrubs and small trees of various forms that can provide excellent cover and habitat. A mix of viburnums or viburnum in combination with other understory shrubs like native azaleas, Virginia sweetspire, or sweetshrub can create a satisfying bird thicket.
The viburnums that are common in the shady
piedmont of North Carolina encompass a fair amount of variation in size, appearance, and favored growing conditions. They share some traits—all bloom in spring with characteristic inflorescences of tiny white flowers followed by fleshy fruits in a range of colors which ripen in late summer to fall.
One of my favorites is mapleleaf viburnum, Viburnum acerifolium, which is the shortest of the bunch and has the most dramatic fall color, often in shades of pink and purple. The foliage of this species, unsurprisingly, looks like that of a maple. Since viburnums, like maples, have an opposite branching pattern, this can be confusing. Their habit of forming a low thicket can help identify the little imposters. Mapleleaf viburnum is an attractive, informal shrub tolerant of shady and dry sites.
Black haw (V. prunifolium) is gratifyingly
ubiquitous in and around the North Carolina Botanical Garden and falls on the other end of the height spectrum. It makes a handsome specimen if maintained as a single stemmed small tree but, like mapleleaf viburnum, it can spread by suckers and, as such, is well suited to thicket forming.
Southern black haw (V. rufidulum) is another tall one, similar in form to black haw. It is less frequently encountered but boasts glossy green foliage and the tastiest fruit. This species favors upland, well-drained sites
Downy arrow-wood (V. rafinesquianum) is also common in the woods of the Triangle. Its form is that of a medium sized multi-trunked shrub. Much branched and fine-textured, it provides cover for birds throughout the year, even more so in winter when leafless landscapes are exposed to the elements. The flowers of this one have a disagreeable smell so don’t plant it by the front door, but its bronzy fall color and pleasing form help to make up for deficiencies in aroma.
Southern wild raisin (V. nudum) smells not unlike V. rafinesquianum, but it may be the showiest of the lot, in part because as its fruits ripen, they move through a gaudy array of colors with each cluster sporting multiple shades at once. This species has larger leaves and a coarser texture than the others and rambles in the form of a tall, loose shrub. It habituates wetter sites such as bogs and seeps, which explains why it is less frequently encountered around the Triangle. Similarly predisposed to moisture is the group
of shrubs once known as Arrow-wood (V. dentatum) which have recently been divided into three species. Smooth arrow-wood (V. recognitum) is the one most common in the piedmont overlapping with the less common V. dentatum. The third species, V. carolinianum, is rare and found only in the mountains. These have a vaselike form and are larger landscape shrubs. Due to the recent split you’re likely to find any of the three labeled V. dentatum in nurseries. If you really want to know, you’d better go armed with your hand lens and floraquest app. Arrow-wood is the native viburnum most commercially available. There are numerous cultivars selected for traits including fall color, compact form, or improved fruiting.
Our viburnums are adapted to shaded conditions, but most have a range of tolerance and will bloom and fruit better with at least part sun. Mapleleaf viburnum is an exception and struggles in full sun if planted in a dry site. Another thing to know about building your viburnum thicket is that unless you live in an area where these plants naturally abound it’s good to have multiple plants of differing genetic makeup to encourage good fruiting. That means purchasing at least two at a time from a seller that offers seed grown plants, planting two different cultivars, or pairing a cultivar with a straight species. Some of these viburnums are not often offered for sale so you’ll have to keep an eye out. Be cautious if considering the non-natives. Some, such as linden viburnum (V. dilatatum) are spreading aggressively in our area.
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Spring has arrived, bringing longer days, fresh air, and the opportunity to spend more time outdoors with our pets. While the season invites us to enjoy walks, gardening, and home improvement projects, it also presents new hazards for our furry companions. Before diving into seasonal activities, take a moment to safeguard your pet from potential springtime dangers.
With the arrival of warm breezes, many pet owners open their windows to let in fresh air. However, unscreened or loosely fitted windows can pose a serious risk, particularly for cats, who may jump or fall. Ensure all windows have secure, sturdy screens to keep pets safely indoors.
Spring cleaning is a tradition in many households, but common cleaning products contain chemicals that may be harmful to pets. Even all-natural solutions can pose risks if ingested. Store all cleaning supplies out of reach and carefully follow label instructions for safe use. Be mindful of residues left behind on surfaces where pets may walk or lick.
Spring is a popular time for home renovations, but construction materials can be dan-
gerous to pets. Paints, solvents, mineral spirits, and adhesives may cause irritation or chemical burns. Additionally, sharp objects such as nails, staples, and power tools can lead to injuries. To prevent accidents, keep pets confined to a safe, designated area away from the workspace.
Fertilizers, insecticides, and herbicides help maintain beautiful lawns and gardens but can be toxic if ingested by pets. Store these products securely and apply them according to safety guidelines. Additionally, many springtime plants, including azaleas and rhododendrons, are highly toxic to pets and can be fatal if eaten. Research pet-safe plants before adding new greenery to your home and yard.
As temperatures rise, fleas and ticks become more active. Protect your pet by maintaining a consistent flea and tick prevention routine. Additionally, ensure your pet is on year-round heartworm medication, as warmer weather increases the risk of mosquito-borne diseases.
Like humans, pets can develop seasonal allergies triggered by pollen, dust, and certain plants. Symptoms may include itching, sneezing, and watery eyes. In severe cases, insect bites can cause life-threatening allergic reactions. If you suspect your pet is suffering from allergies, consult your veterinarian for appropriate treatment options.
Warmer weather means more outdoor adventures, but it also increases the risk of pets wan-
dering off. Ensure your pet has a microchip and wears a collar with an up-to-date identification tag that includes your contact information. This simple precaution greatly improves the chances of a lost pet being returned home safely.
Spring holidays bring festive decorations and treats, some of which can be harmful to pets. Chocolate, artificial sweeteners, and certain candies are toxic to both dogs and cats. Additionally, lilies—commonly found in Easter arrangements—can be deadly to cats if ingested. Keep holiday decorations and treats out of reach to prevent accidental poisoning.
Many dogs love car rides, but allowing them to ride with their heads out of the window or unsecured in the back of a truck can be dangerous. Flying debris, insects, and abrupt stops can cause serious injuries. To keep pets safe, secure them in a crate or use a pet-specific seatbelt harness when traveling.
By taking these simple precautions, you can ensure that both you and your pet enjoy a happy, healthy, and safe spring season.
Article courtesy of ASPCA
Spring showers bring muddy paws! A waterproof rain jacket helps keep your pet dry during drizzly walks. Look for breathable materials with adjustable hoods and secure fastenings to ensure a snug but comfortable fit.
2.
With more time outside, your pet’s paws need protection from rough surfaces, hot pavement, and allergens. Try paw balms to soothe and hydrate, or opt for breathable booties to shield paws from mud, grass irritants, and pollen.
As temperatures rise, cooling bandanas and vests can help keep your pet comfortable. Simply soak them in water, wring out excess moisture, and let evaporative cooling do the work during warm afternoon walks.
With more outdoor adventures ahead, keep your pet visible at dawn and dusk. Invest in reflective leashes, collars, or clip-on LED lights to enhance safety during early morning or late evening strolls.
Spring means more time exploring! A lightweight, breathable harness ensures comfort on longer walks and hikes. Look for durable, adjustable designs that prevent chafing and allow for better movement.
Some pets, especially those with short fur or light-colored coats, can be sensitive to the sun. A pet-safe sunscreen or a lightweight UV-protective shirt can help prevent sunburn on exposed areas like the nose, ears, and belly.
Staying hydrated is key for spring outings! A portable water bottle with an attached bowl or a collapsible silicone dish makes it easy to give your pet fresh water during walks, hikes, or park visits.
Warmer weather means flea and tick season is in full swing. Make sure your pet is protected with flea and tick collars, sprays, or vet-approved treatments to keep pests at bay.
If your pet loves basking in the sun, a cooling mat offers a refreshing place to relax. These mats use cooling gel or evaporative technology to regulate body temperature and keep pets comfortable.
Take advantage of the season with fun, interactive toys! Look for floating fetch toys for water-loving dogs, durable frisbees for active play, or treat-dispensing puzzle toys to keep your pet entertained outdoors.
Wake County’s Oldest No-Kill Animal Rescue Organization!
North Carolina ranks 2nd in the nation for shelter animal euthanasia due to severe overcrowding.
BE THE SOLUTION
275 DOGS RESCUED
159 DOGS ADOPTED LOCALLY
123 *TRANSPORT PROGRAM
*DOGS TRANSPORTED TO PARTNER RESCUES IN NORTHERN STATES TO FIND FOREVER HOMES
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337 CATS RESCUED
328 CATS ADOPTED
12 DOGS TREATED FOR HEARTWORMS AND ADOPTED THROUGH THE HEELING HEARTS PROGRAM
FIV+
31 FIV+ CATS GIVEN A SECOND CHANCE
SECOND CHANCE WON INDY WEEKLY BEST NON-PROFIT OF WAKE COUNTY AND BEST NON-PROFIT OF THE TRIANGLE!
SATURDAYS 11:00 A.M. – 1:00 P.M.
Before you start your next project, at Making Your Home Great wide range of topics including renovation, and more from home improvement
As spring showers begin, it’s the perfect time to start harvesting rainwater for your garden. A rain barrel is an easy, eco-friendly way to collect and store rainwater, reducing your water bill while keeping your plants hydrated. Follow these simple steps to build your own rain barrel and start conserving water today.
55-gallon plastic barrel (food-grade recommended)
Mesh screen (to keep out debris and mosquitoes)
Spigot with washers and nuts
Overflow hose or pipe
Downspout diverter (optional)
Drill with hole saw bit
Waterproof sealant
Place the barrel under a downspout where water naturally flows from your roof. Ensure it's near your garden for easy access and set it on a stable, elevated base like cinder blocks to improve water pressure.
Drill a hole near the bottom of the barrel for the spigot. Insert the spigot, securing it with washers and nuts, and apply waterproof sealant to prevent leaks.
Drill another hole near the top for an overflow hose to direct excess water away from your foundation.
Cut a hole in the lid or top of the barrel to fit your downspout. Cover it with mesh screen to prevent leaves, debris, and mosquitoes from entering.
If using a downspout diverter, install it according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Otherwise, position the downspout to direct water onto the mesh-covered opening.
Ensure all fittings are tight, and test by running water into the barrel. Adjust as needed to prevent leaks.
Ͱ Water your garden with a watering can or attach a hose to the spigot.
Ͱ Clean the barrel seasonally to prevent algae buildup.
Ͱ In colder climates, empty and store the barrel before winter to avoid cracking.
With this simple DIY rain barrel, you can make a big difference in your water usage and garden health this spring!
WITH BOB DROOG, OWNER OF TRIANGLE HOME REPAIR AND PAINT
The Host of the Making Your Home Great, Dave Alexander, recently had as a guest, one of the newest partners with Curtis Media Group, Bob Droog, the owner of Triangle Home Repair and Paint.
Triangle Home Repair and Paint prides itself on their ability to get to you for a quote, fast and get the work started on whatever it is you are trying to get done, faster.
The key differentiator with Triangle Home Repair and Paint, when you call them, you’re going to talk to one of the owners, Bob or Alex Tedford and those two will be the main contacts for your projects. A first-class touch from a topnotch, customer-service focused business.
DAVE: You are originally from Amsterdam, when did you get into the home repair business?
BOB: Well, I’ve always been someone that likes to do things myself, but I found out the hard way, that I’m not a good mechanic. After you take an engine out and put it back in, and you still have five bolts, you won’t want to try that again. I do like working with my hands. I’m more of an expert in carpentry, and when I came to the United States, I’ve always been entrepreneurial, I used to have a Chocolate store, and we built it beautiful, people thought they were in Vienna. I learned that hard way that Americans don’t spend money year-round on Chocolate and in 2008 when the economy turned, I had to close the shop.
DAVE: Tell us about Triangle Home Repair and Paint and how our listeners can benefit from your services?
BOB: So, when it comes to the your home, we can do pretty much anything, from siding repair and replacement to gutter installation, framing
repairs, we can build you a deck, we can build you a sun room, but in the last few months, we’ve done more remodeling projects, adding on to the homes. I’ve got some very specialized people that are very skilled in that field. We’d have customers call in or I’d go see them about quotes and they’d ask about an addition to the home or remodeling a certain part of it and I didn’t have the expertise myself, so I hired a gentlemen Dan Clark who’s been doing this for 25 years and he’s really good at it.
DAVE: Gentlemen, you can have a DEN, or your wife can have a room of her own!
BROCK: Are those primarily attic renovations or are you adding a room to the back of the property?
BOB: Well, we do both. We’ve had customers with unfinished attics or basements, but we’ve had people who add-on an office. Sunrooms are a big demand from our customers. With mortgage rates the way they are, doing these types of renovations can really add value to your home should you ever need to move.
DAVE: You’ve mentioned all the services you provide, do you finish rooms that were left unfinished?
BOB: Something new we’ve run into lately is we’ll have customers call us to come and finish a room in a brand-new home that they didn’t finish with the original builder because it was a lot more expensive. We’ve had people ask for a sauna in the house.
You can learn more about Triangle Home Repair and Paint by going to TriangleHomePro.com or calling 919704-5562 to setup your free no-obligation estimate.
“Making Your Home Great” airs Saturdays from 11:00 am to 1:00 pm on WPTF.
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Whether you’re replacing a light fixture, installing a new switch, or simply troubleshooting an electrical issue, understanding the basics of household wiring is essential. Knowing how wires are color-coded and how outlets are wired can help you work safely and effectively.
Before starting any electrical project, turn off the power at the home’s electrical panel. Use a voltage tester to ensure no current is flowing to the outlet or switch you’ll be working on. To avoid accidental reconnection, place tape over the breaker switch and alert other household members.
Electrical wiring follows a standard color code, which indicates each wire’s function:
» BLACK WIRE – “Hot”: This wire carries electricity from the breaker panel to the switch or outlet.
» WHITE WIRE – “Neutral”: This wire carries unused electricity back to the panel.
» GREEN OR BARE WIRE – “Ground”: This wire directs stray electrical currents safely into the ground, preventing potential shocks. Understanding these color codes can help you correctly identify and connect wires when working on electrical projects.
If you see only one cable entering an outlet box, it means this outlet is the last fixture on the circuit. Power flows through the black (hot) wire from the service panel to the outlet and returns through the white (neutral) wire. The black wire
End-of-Run Outlet
Middle-of-Run Outlet
connects to a brass terminal, while the white wire connects to a silver terminal.
When two cables enter an outlet box, the outlet is part of a continuous circuit. One black wire brings power from the breaker, while the other sends power to additional outlets or switches. Both white wires serve as the return path to the panel. The outlet completes the circuit while allowing other connected fixtures to function.
» Wear rubber-soled shoes to minimize shock risk.
» Avoid working in wet areas to prevent electrical hazards.
» Use nonmetallic ladders for added insulation.
» Handle tools with rubber grips for better protection.
» Check local electrical codes before attempting any DIY wiring.
By understanding these wiring basics and following safety precautions, you can confidently tackle small electrical projects while keeping yourself and your home safe.
Replacing a garbage disposal may sound like a daunting task, but with the right tools and a bit of patience, it’s a project you can tackle on your own. Follow these steps to replace your old or malfunctioning disposal with a new one. Watch the full video on YOUTUBE @LRN2DIY
MATERIALS AND TOOLS NEEDED:
Ͱ New garbage disposal unit
Ͱ Wrench or pliers
Ͱ Screwdriver
Ͱ Pipe wrench
Ͱ Plumber’s putty
Ͱ Bucket (to catch any water)
Ͱ Dish towel
Ͱ Flashlight (if needed)
Ͱ Gloves
Ͱ Adjustable wrench
Ͱ Utility knife
Ͱ Electrical tape (if needed)
Before starting, safety is key. Unplug the garbage disposal from the power outlet or switch off the circuit breaker that powers the disposal. Also, turn off the water supply to the sink.
Place a bucket under the sink to catch any residual water. Using a pipe wrench or pliers, disconnect the drain lines attached to the garbage disposal. Remove the drainpipe and any attached hose or dishwasher drain line.
Use a wrench or pliers to loosen the mounting bolts that attach the disposal to the sink. If your disposal is attached to a mounting bracket under the sink, rotate it counterclockwise to remove it. Carefully lower the old disposal and set it aside.
Before attaching the new disposal, you’ll need to install a mounting bracket onto the sink. Most new disposals come with a mounting bracket and a flange. Apply plumber’s putty around the flange, then place it into the sink’s drain hole. Secure the mounting bracket by tightening the screws, ensuring the flange is secure.
If your new disposal didn’t come pre-assembled, attach the mounting ring, mounting flange, and splash guard to the disposal. You may need to refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for assembly.
Lift the new garbage disposal into position and align it with the mounting bracket. Rotate it clockwise to lock the disposal into place. Ensure it’s securely attached to the mounting hardware.
Once you’ve confirmed that everything is working properly, Now that the disposal is mounted, reconnect the drainpipe and dishwasher hose (if applicable). Use a pipe wrench or pliers to secure the drain lines, making sure all connections are tight to prevent leaks.
If your new disposal requires electrical wiring, make sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions. If you’re unsure about handling electrical connections, consult a professional. Typically, you’ll have an outlet under your sink to plug the disposal into.
Once everything is connected, plug in the garbage disposal or turn the circuit breaker back on. Run water through the sink and test the disposal by turning it on. Check for any leaks around the drain lines and electrical connections. If you notice any issues, address them immediately.
Once you’ve confirmed that everything is working properly, clean up the area and dispose of the old unit. Make sure the sink area is dry and free of any tools or debris.show they’re fresh and ready.
Spring pollen is a good reminder that now is the time to take your vehicle to King’s Auto Service for a spring check-up. Items that need to be checked include wiper blades, which have taken abuse from the winter weather, and the cabin air filter, which keeps that pollen out of the inside of your car. During your spring check-up, make sure the A/C is ready for the upcoming hot weather.
For those of you currently driving a Toyo-
ta Prius or any other hybrid vehicle, the certified hybrid technicians at King’s are ready to diagnose and give you available options for a high-voltage battery pack replacement for less than the dealer will charge for a replacement. This usually occurs around 150,000 miles.
Call King’s today to schedule a courtesy battery analysis. King’s Auto Service, easy to find at 1039 North West Street in downtown Raleigh and at KingAutomotive.net.
Inspect the Roof – Look for missing, loose, or damaged shingles and address any leaks.
Clean Gutters & Downspouts – Remove leaves and debris to ensure proper drainage and prevent water damage.
Check the Siding & Paint – Look for cracks, peeling paint, or mold growth and schedule repairs or repainting if needed.
Inspect Windows & Doors – Check for drafts, damaged weather stripping, and broken seals. Clean and repair screens.
Power Wash Driveways & Walkways – Remove dirt, grime, and mildew from concrete, pavers, and siding.
Check Outdoor Faucets & Sprinklers – Test for leaks and ensure all outdoor plumbing is working properly.
Service Your Air Conditioning Unit – Clean or replace filters and schedule a professional HVAC inspection.
Clean Up the Yard – Rake leaves, remove dead plants, and trim overgrown shrubs and branches.
Fertilize & Reseed Lawn – Apply fertilizer and overseed to promote lush grass growth.
Inspect Fences & Gates – Repair any loose boards, hinges, or damage caused by winter weather.
Prepare the Garden – Test soil, plant spring flowers, and start a vegetable garden if desired.
Deep Clean the House – Dust ceiling fans, wipe
down baseboards, and vacuum carpets and upholstery.
Check Plumbing for Leaks – Inspect under sinks, around toilets, and near appliances for any signs of leaks.
Test Smoke & Carbon Monoxide Detectors – Replace batteries and ensure they are in working order.
Declutter & Organize – Go through closets, pantries, and storage areas to remove unused items.
Reverse Ceiling Fans – Set fans to spin counterclockwise to push cool air down.
Check for Pests – Look for signs of ants, termites, or rodents, and take preventive measures.
Inspect & Clean the Deck or Patio – Look for cracks, loose boards, or splinters and reseal if needed.
Wash Outdoor Furniture – Clean cushions and furniture to prepare for outdoor gatherings.
Check & Refill Propane Tanks – Ensure your grill is ready for spring BBQs.
Organize Tools & Equipment – Store winter gear and prepare summer tools like lawnmowers and hoses.
Inspect Garage Doors & Openers – Test auto-reverse functions and lubricate moving parts.
Dispose of Hazardous Materials – Get rid of old paint, chemicals, or expired household products safely.
Before you replace your Hybrid Battery Pack call King's for
ATTENTION HYBRID OWNERS!
ATTENTION HYBRID OWNERS!
If you're currently driving a Prius or any other hybrid vehicle, the certified hybrid technicians at King's are ready to diagnose and give you available options for a high voltage battery pack replacement for less than the dealer will charge for a replacement. Call King's to schedule a courtesy battery analysis.
ATTENTION HYBRID OWNERS!
King’s Auto Service can refurbish your battery pack for less than half the cost of a replacement at the dealer. Why go to the dealer when King's Auto Service can refurbish your existing battery pack for less than half the cost! Prius and hybrid owners …call King's Auto Service today to schedule your courtesy battery analysis. King's will also inspect your battery, cell balance and antifreeze during this important check up.
are ready to diagnose and give you available options for a high voltage battery pack replacement for less than the dealer will charge for a replacement. Call King's to schedule a courtesy battery analysis. (919) 834-0748
King’s Auto Service can refurbish your battery pack for less than half the cost of a replacement at the dealer. Why go to the dealer when King's Auto Service can refurbish your existing battery pack for less than half the cost! Prius and hybrid owners …call King's Auto Service today to schedule your courtesy battery analysis. King's will also inspect your battery, cell balance and antifreeze during this important check up.
King’s Auto Service can refurbish your battery pack for less than half the cost of a replacement at the dealer. Why go to the dealer when King's Auto Service can refurbish your existing battery pack for less than half the cost! Prius and hybrid owners …call King's Auto Service today to schedule your courtesy battery analysis. King's will also inspect your battery, cell balance and antifreeze during this important check up.
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