#
19
W E A R E F U R . C O M
ISSUE DECEMBER
T . H . E E. D. I. T
FUR & FASHION CEO COMMENT IFF AGM 2019
Fashion Sustainability Campaign 2019 Fashion News Update Nina Suess The Truth About Fashion: Fixing Fashion’s Future The Sustainable Gift Guide
SUSTAINABILITY FURMARK
ANIMAL RIGHTS REGIONAL UPDATES Asia Europe Americas Eurasia
2019 RECAP AND OUTLOOK FOR 2020
Fashion is all about trends, but this season, it’s not a question of prints or pastels, or streetwear or athleisure, the current buzzword is Sustainability. The problems that challenge the fur industry today are not part of a passing phase, or something with a one season lifespan, they’re very real and here to stay. It’s not enough for the fur trade to claim to be sustainable; sustainability should not be a public relations campaign, it needs to be grounded in real change. The truth is fashion is a bigger polluter than the transport sector with 85% of the fashion produced ending up in landfill. With fact like these, no wonder brands are under huge pressure to respond, and quickly. That’s why I’m proud to represent natural fur. We are the solution to the fast fashion problem. What we produce comes from nature and ends up being passed down from generation to generation. But this reality is not enough on its own, we have to do more. That’s why we’re about to launch an ambitious sustainability strategy looking at our impact and how we measure on welfare, the environment and how good we are for people. This means doing more to make our farms and dressing and dying practices state of the art. We are up for this challenge and we are serious about it. If brands were serious about sustainability, then they would support natural fur rather than give in to pressure from animal rights groups who know nothing about being sustainable and offer no serious alternatives to responsible natural materials like fur. I wish you a happy Christmas and all the best for the next year! With regards, Mark Oaten CEO, International Fur Federation
IFF celebrates its 70th Anniversary at the Annual General Meeting in Istanbul From October 16-18, 2019, the International Fur Federation (IFF) hosted their Annual General Meeting (AGM) in Istanbul, Turkey, for two days of meetings, presentations and discussions. The IFF and up to 90 guests representing each of IFF’s regional and national Federations, convened at the CVK Park Bosphorus Hotel, just a short walk from the famous Taksim Square. IFF President Andreas Lenhart opened the AGM on the afternoon of Thursday 16th with a pre-recorded 70th anniversary congratulations message before handing over to AGM moderator Roberto Scarpella, IFF Chairman Johannes Manakas and IFF CEO Mark Oaten. The first presentation of the AGM was conducted by IFF Finance Director Kiran Mahmood who gave updates on the 2018 and 2020 budgets before welcoming new IFF members: the US Fox Shippers Council (USFSC), with Ukrainian Fur Farmers Association (UFFA) and RusPushnina. This was followed by a presentation by IFF Americas Region CEO Mike Brown who updated the council on the great work he
is doing with Ryan Holt, Nick Pologeorgis and the Americas team to counter the fur bans currently facing the US. An informative first day concluded with a Council dinner on the CVK Park Bosphorus Hotel rooftop overlooking the Sea of Marmara. During the dinner, IFFs annual awards ceremony took place with five awards being presented this year. Mark Oaten opened the awards ceremony with an impassioned speech, before calling AIP Director Roberto Scarpella on stage to accept the Posthumous Lifetime Achievement Award on behalf of Alessandra Dagnino. Mark then called Ryan Holt on stage to collect the second Posthumous Lifetime Achievement Award on behalf of David Solman. Both Roberto and Ryan delivered powerful speeches paying tribute to Alessandra and David for their hard work throughout their careers. Mark then presented the Young Person of the Year award to Mercy Chen for her outstanding work in the Asia region and supporting all IFF projects, the Member of the Year award went to Estonia for their efforts in thwarting a fur ban, and finally Mark presented Ryan Holt
with Individual of the Year Award. Both Mark and Ryan delivered emotionally charged speeches. The dinner concluded with traditional Turkish dancing initiated by IFFs Turkish members and cake to celebrate IFFs 70th birthday. IFFs Director of Communications Neville Thurlbeck opened the second day of IFF’s AGM with updates on his projects undermining the credibility of animal rights organisations, including exposing the skinning alive myth and PETA’s expenditure which weakened their donor confidence leading to a reduction in donations. This was followed by a presentation by Fur Europe CEO Mette Lykke Nielsen who invited members to Fur Europe’s upcoming European Parliament event and shared updates on challenging fur bans across Europe. The IFF Fashion Director Jean-Pierre Rouphael provided updates on the fashion communications work including a brand-new sustainability fashion campaign which IFF’s Annual General Meeting gathered more than 90 guests in recruited the voices of 6 experts Istanbul for meetings, discussions and presentations promoting fur fashion, photoshoots, media collaborations, influencer partnerships, fashion conference sponsorships and standalone events undertaken this year around the globe. IFF Director of Standards and Sustainability Paul Stockall then presented the IFF’s sustainability strategy and gave an update on FURMARK, the fur trades global traceability and certification program, explaining the challenges IFF has overcome before officially launching in 2020. BFTA CEO Giles Roca then presented a Best Practice Case Study about how he overhauled the British Fur Trade Association, giving all IFFs members ideas and examples to optimise their operations and get better results. All projects from IFF’s Communications, Fashion and Sustainability departments super-exceeded predicted targets and were received with rounds of applause. The AGM concluded with a trip to Punto which featured demonstrations on the manufacturing and maintaining processes of fur and leather garments, followed by a fashion show showcasing Punto’s latest collection. Throughout the AGM, media training was on offer to all IFF members and guests, headed by Neville Thurlbeck, providing them with the skills to handle the ever-growing challenging media. Top: The AGM at the CVK Park Bosphorus Hotel Bottom:Chairman Johannes Manaks awarding Ryan Holt the Individual of the Year award The festive council dinner on the 17th October
The worldwide roll-out of IFF’s biggest Fashion Sustainability campaign ever IFF’s 2019/2020 Fashion Sustainability campaign has started to appear in prestigious fashion media and online platforms with more publications in print and online to follow over the upcoming winter season. The Fashion Sustainability campaign is set to appear in key fashion media in over 20 countries, including 36 print magazines, 17 online websites and 5 social media accounts. Since November, it has also been featured on a 15 x 3 meters billboard in Gstaad, a top Swiss skiing resort which attracts more than 200,000 people over the winter season until April 2020.
The campaign is featured as a double-page ad in Green Knowledge, a compendium for sustainable fashion published by a business-to-business magazine in Germany. Additionally, an interview with Mark Oaten discussing FURMARK and the fur industry’s sustainability efforts will be published. The compendium will be published in English and distributed on international fashion events and fairs. Already, our campaign has appeared in WWD, Vogue Italy, Tatler, Telva, Lufthansa Woman’s World, Kurier, Blue Wings and online on Elle Italy and France and more. In the upcoming months, you will see our campaign published in Harper’s Bazaar, Vanity Fair, Marie Claire and more in various European countries. Finally, our Fashion Sustainability social media campaign’s first push reached nearly 29 million people. With 5 more to come, we expect to reach more than 170 million people worldwide through social media channels with our positive messaging about sustainable and natural fur.
Below from left to right: 1 Fox Vest, LISKA, Blouse, JAQUEMUS, Cycling pants, FENDI, Belt bag, FENDI 2 Fox coat, YVES SALOMON, Leather shirt, MALLONI, Cycling pants, FENDI, Suede Baguette bag, FENDI 3 Mink shaved coat, MARNI, Wool jumper, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO, Sandals, MARNI 4 Mink and wool coat, GABRIELE COLANGELO, Leather Suit, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO, Seal Fur Rucksack, REBECCA BRADLEY LONDON, Slippers, FENDI
Our favourite looks from the Fashion Sustainability Campaign
Opposite from left to right: 1 Finnraccoon jacket, SAGA FURS X UTZON Leather shirt, BROGNANO Belt, MALLONI Leather pants, HERMÉS Lizard boots, CELINE
2 Mink coat, EDWARD CRUTCHLEY Pants, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO Sandals, MARNI Socks, FALKE Backpack, ALEXQUISITE
Below from left to right:
1 Robin/ multi colour print long mink coat, SAKS POTTS Bodysuit, ACNE STUDIOS Cycling pants, ACNE STUDIOS White boots, CESARE PACIOTTI Mink bum bag, SAGA FURS X MAJA CORNELIUS
2 Monogram sheepskin coat, Denim hoodie, Denim baggy pants, Sneakers, all LOUIS VUITTON
3 Mink jacket, KOPENHAGEN FUR Linen blouse, ACNE STUDIOS Leather and suede pants, ALBERTA FERRETTI Rex Rabbit “Banana” bag, SPRUNG PARIS 1931 4 Brown Sable jacket, DENNIS BASSO Ankle boots, PHILOSOPHY DI LORENZO SERAFINI
L I F E a t LV M H : Antoine Arnault on the luxury giant’s new sustainability strategy – Fashion Network
“Our plans have very clear objectives. Concrete and measurable, for the next few years and not decades.” Arnault stressed. “We will continue producing and working with leather, fur and exotics skins. As a leader in this industry we have the responsibility to keep on this craftsmanship but to do it the right way and in all transparency. It is left to all companies inside the group to make their choice. We need to be realistic - customers will keep on buying it and we would rather they bought a quality product from us produced in the most ethical environment.” LINK TO READ MORE: https://uk. fashionnetwork.com/news/ Life-at-lvmh-antoine-arnault-onthe-luxury-giant-s-newsustainability-strategy,1141292. html#.XZIdn5NKiS4
The California Fur Ban and What It M e a n s f o r Yo u – T h e N ew Yo r k Times They range from fur being a meaningful part of national industry to the fact that many of the fake alternatives are made from petroleum and other plastic-based synthetics and are generally regarded as entirely disposable, which means fake fur is probably worse for the environment than real fur, which is almost never thrown away. Keith Kaplan, of the Fur Information Council of America (F.I.C.), issued the following statement after the California news broke: “This issue is about much more than animal welfare in the fur industry. It is about the end of animal use of any kind. Fur today, leather tomorrow, your wool blankets and silk sheets — and meat after that.”
Why Fur Should Never Be Banned – Harper’s Bazaar The eye of this storm is a central question: Is fur inherently animal cruelty? And it can be answered a hundred times, depending on whom you ask. For those against killing
LINK TO READ MORE: https://www.nytimes.com/2019/10/14/style/ fur-ban-california.html
Faux fur can be worse for the planet than the r e a l t h i n g , t h e B r i t i s h F u r Tr a d e A s s o c i a t i o n has told Buckingham Palace. Faux fur can be worse for the planet than the real thing, the British Fur Trade Association has told Buckingham Palace. The organisation wrote to the Queen’s private secretary after it emerged that new garments made for the monarch would eschew real fur in favour of the fake variety. But Giles Roca, chief executive of the British Fur Trade Association, claimed that
ditching real fur was not the way to be socially responsible. “Faux fur, fake fur, plastic fur is actually far worse for the environment than natural fur,” he told BBC Radio 4’s Today programme. LINK TO READ MORE: https://www. telegraph.co.uk/royalfamily/2019/11/07/real-fur-sociallyresponsible-fake-queen-told/
animals for human use, fur is empirically wrong, no matter how well the animal is raised. For those who believe animals can be ethically raised and culled, fur is a sustainable resource that fuels local businesses and employees’ traditional artisans. All the gray in between, from “pain-free” fur farming to “vegan” (i.e., plastic) leather, makes the issue one of the most fraught within the fashion world. And while a recent study showed that natural fur begins to biodegrade within four weeks—the same amount of time as an oak or willow tree leaf—studies put the rate of plastic decomposition closer to 200 years. LINK TO READ MORE: https://www. harpersbazaar.com/ culture/features/ a28690403/fur-bannew-york-california/
Nina Suess
FASHION INFLUENCER PROMOTES NATURAL FUR TO HER 325K FOLLOWERS AND THE FUR COAT SELLS IMMEDIATELY
With the winter season setting in, we saw our first ever influencer collaboration come to life in the beginning of November. Over the last months, we have been working with high fashion Instagram darling Nina Suess to create a partnership promoting natural fur to her global fanbase of 325k followers. In November, Nina styled an outfit featuring a beautiful fur jacket from German brand Manakas Frankfurt while she was out and about in vibrant New York City. Being a long-time fan of fur, Nina explained to her followers why she is such a fan of fur: Wearing a gorgeous @manakasfrankfurt coat around NYC. Against all odds, fur and sustainability actually go hand-in-hand. I choose to wear fur because it is extremely long-lasting, infinitely recyclable and a natural material after all. Therefore it can be passed on from generation to generation and its durability will probably outlive most of us. In my opinion, conscious purchasing behavior matters most when it comes to sustainability, whether it is for fur products or synthetic materials. Of course it is up to everyone of us personally if we choose to wear fur or don’t but I have always been wearing it, whether it was a heirloom from my mom or a special piece I bought myself, valueing its sustainability. @wearefur#fur #sustainablefashion
Her post got so far more than 4.200 likes and more than 100 comments with people saying how much they like the outfit and agree with what she said. Until January 2020, Nina will post two more looks linking to our global fashion sustainability campaign and simultaneously to her German roots promoting natural fur fashion from German and Austrian members.
The Truth about Fashion:
Fixing Fashion’s Future
by the FURGURU
The fashion industry is a hub of innovation, from the invention of the sewing machine to the creation of 3D printed footwear. The $2.4 trillion fashion sector is a global economic powerhouse, and it’s transforming quicker than ever before. But while artificial intelligence is being used to predict trends, augmented and virtual reality create at-home dressing rooms, and robots assist craftspeople in the atelier and models on the runway, we explore the future of fashion and what’s needed to fix it. To first answer this question, we must start with debates surrounding consumer attitudes, in particular, attitudes to ‘sustainability.’ We are all aware the biggest problem for the fashion industry is fast fashion and the environmental impact fashion has, including overproduction, overconsumption and excessive waste. Thus, if the future of fashion is to be sustainable, then the role of fur and all other natural materials, which are more bio-degradable
than their synthetic alternatives, in that future is central. This is the opinion shared by Danish designer and London Fashion Week Men’s staple Astrid Andersen who stated in Vogue: “For me, fur is the most sustainable material you can work with—my mom still has the coat she bought 25 years ago. The biggest problem in the industry is fast fashion—and we also need to consider the environmental impact of producing fake fur.” More so now than ever before, designers are under pressure to create responsibly. The first designer to show signs of this recognition is Jean-Paul Gaultier. After announcing a fur ban in November 2018, the following July (2019) he announced he could go back to using fur if he could be sure it was entirely traceable. The timing of this announcement coincides with the upcoming launch of IFF’s traceability and certification program FURMARK which is
set to launch in 2020. As attitudes begin to shift and the public moves towards natural materials, we are well on our way to fixing fashions future. According to to online luxury retailer Farfetch, the future of fashion will rely heavily on influencers. Farfetch Chief Executive Jose Neves stated: “First, a creative tastemaker able to leverage digital channels to engage a global community; second, a best-inclass design, planning and manufacturing; and third; direct-to-consumer global online distribution, complemented by a connected wholesale presence in the most prestigious physical boutiques.” The rising importance of influencers and the role of digital is echoed by online news outlet Fashionista who stated, “with mobile shopping, peer-to-peer e-commerce, and influencer marketing continually on the rise, social commerce is finally becoming the next wave of retail.” This includes the utilization of social media to reach Gen Z customers – with some brands having more than 2,500 influencers within their network – this is to reach “the first wave of consumers who effectively grew up online,” according to Quartzy. While it is impossible to predict with total accuracy the future of fashion, one can look at trends and forecast where we might end up in a decade or two. So, in addition to a sustainability-centred, natural material heavy and influencer-dominated fashion landscape, what’s next? According to Vogue Australia – public fashion shows. In a bid to further democratise fashion and marry the consumer with the brand, the British Fashion Council
announced that London Fashion Week will be first of the “Big Four” to sell show tickets to the public. Fashion weeks are some of the most glamorous events in the world, but more than anything else, they are monolithic marketing performances with the primary purpose to sell the brand to consumers. The BFC’s decision to sell tickets means fashion lovers will be able to rub shoulders with celebrities, influencers and the fashion elite front row for the right price. This is an exciting prospect and signals a shift from the traditional elitist form fashion weeks usually follow. However, the future of fashion looks exciting – a revolution is taking place fixing the issues that shroud it currently. While we set sail on this new fashion voyage, we can be positive that the public is moving towards ethical and sustainable products which will benefit us all.
Below: Eco Fashion Week Vancouver Influencer
“For me, fur is the most sustainable material you can work with—my mom still has the coat she bought 25 years ago.” Astrid Andersen
Top: Celebrity Olivia Palermo at Milan Fashion Week in February 2019
1
2
Mink fur coat
Saint L aurent farfetch.com
Furrissima Love 1
SIMONE T TA R AVIZZ A simonettaravizza.com
Your sustainable Christmas
3
gif t guide‌
Boulevard, worn cravat style scarf
R ACHEL L ONDON rachel-london.com
4 Fendi Black leather sabots
FENDI fendi.com
5
6
Furry Zip Tie Pump
Off-White offwhite.com
Fendi Prints On shearling bomber
FENDI X NICKI MINA J fendi.com
7 Reversible Mink Bomber Jacket, Contrasting Sleeves And Front
DIOR dior.com
8
Teddy bear
LISK A farfetch.com
9
10
Skate Bag
MA JA CORNELIUS majacornelius.dk
Chante Scarf
BIJOUX FURS bijouxfurs.com
11 Mink Gloves
MA X MAR A maxmara.com
12 Fur Bolero
DOL CE AND GABBANA store.dolcegabbana.com
14
13
The Mink Drop PullThrough Earring
POL OGEORGIS
Knit beret with pompom and rhinestone logo
pologeorgis.com
BLUMARINE blumarine.com
15
Blue Denim Jacket, Fox Lining
NUMERO OT TO numerootto.com
FURMARK is the new global scheme for the natural fur certification that will be launched in 2020. It is an independent world-class, comprehensive certification and traceability program that covers sustainability, animal welfare, and transparency at all stages of the fur supply chain. The International Fur Federation has been working closely with stakeholders within the fur sector to ensure that each aspect of FURMARK has full
oversight. The FURMARK Steering Group has met on 3 occasions in 2019 and will meet again before the end of the year. Luxury fashion groups such as LVMH are actively supportive of FURMARK and are part of the Steering Group. As we reach the end of the year, thousands of farms are now fully certified. Dressing and Dyeing Standards have been agreed and sample submissions to the independent testing institute are underway. A February visit will follow shortly to certify this process. ChainPoint is progressing with the development of the traceability solution with the ambition to begin shortly testing this with key fashion businesses before the FURMARK program is rolled further in 2020. Fur Sector Sustainability strategy The International Fur Federation together with Fur Europe has been working As we reach the end on the development of the fur industry of the year, sustainability strategy. The thousands of farms strategy will be launched are now fully in December. In addition, a certified. Dressing White Paper will be and Dyeing published in collaboration Standards have with the leading textile been agreed and publication Sourcing Journal. samples submission The strategy is the to the independent starting point of a project testing institute are that looks to the next 10 underway. years which is in line with broader sustainability programs. It is based around three pillars: Good for Welfare, Good for the Environment and Good for People. To support the approach, studies have been conducted on the environmental footprint, durability, biodiversity, evaluation, and fur sector value creation. This research helped to create a comprehensive narrative of the positive impact of fur and to define clear objectives that we, as an industry, want to commit towards a more sustainable future. Natural fur is inextricably linked to nature, for us, sustainability is a necessity. It is a luxurious, clean, sustainable material which symbolises heritage, quality, and individuality. The root of the fur industry lies in responsibility to strong animal welfare, respect for the environment and commitment to the sector cultures and communities. This strategy is a bold and ambitious vision for the sector for the coming decade.
Animal Rights This year has been dominated by two aggressive global campaigns aimed at fighting back hard against the animal rights movement’ false claims. We challenged PETA on two important fronts by exposing their skinning alive exposé lies and revealing their lavish spending on overheads. With our efforts, we were able to reveal some very uncomfortable truths to their donors. Our “Skinning Alive” expose, which showed Chinese workers being bribed to skin a racoon alive, reached a global circulation of 67 million. The “PETA Finances” investigation did better at 81 million. We showed how in one year, PETA received $63 million in donations and spent 98% on overheads, including $20m on consultants, $13m on salaries, $4m on stamps and $1.3m travelling the world. Since launching our long running “PETA Kills Animals” campaign where we reveal up to 90% of rescued animals are put down within 48 hours, overall donations have fallen by around $30 million. These campaigns are also providing our colleagues in the USA with a useful tool in the important fight against several looming fur bans. In China, they have proved an important weapon of persuasion which resulted in the government banning PETA from all social media. In addition to these, other campaigns included: Highlighting some of the absurd (and often grotesque) stunts by the AP movement Highlighting their overt sexism A World Aids Day campaign highlighting PETA’s position on not using animal experiments to find a cure for AIDS
• • •
To read more about animal rights and our campaigns, see animalactivistwatch.com
The International Fur & Leather Expo 2020, Seoul WHEN 24-26TH MARCH 2020
HOW TO APPLY EMAIL KMAHMOOD@IFTF.COM
WHERE SEOUL PARANAS, THE GRAND INTERCONTINENTAL
MORE INFORMATION
(MISS KIRAN MAHMOOD, IFF DIRECTOR OF FINANCE) www.seoulfurfair.com
The International Fur Federation (IFF) invites you to Seoul for the 2020 International Fur & Leather Expo. From March 24-26th, 2020, hundreds of business and fashion leaders from the world of fur and leather will descend on Seoul, Korea, for IFF’s Asia Roadshow for three-days of networking, discussions and business development. Following the success of IFF’s Asia Roadshow over recent years, with 2019 being the most successful, IFF, along with their members, exhibitors, and visitors will return to Seoul Parnas The Grand InterContinental, seeking new industry opportunities to strengthen and further their business goals. Seoul, Korea, was selected as the host nation for IFF’s Asia Roadshow for its budding fashion scene, increasing economy, and, most importantly, Seoul was selected for its growing global influence in fashion, technology and international business. The Asia Roadshow agenda is packed with exciting events and opportunities, so, what can you expect? As well as the opportunity to explore potential business ventures in different countries within the Asia market, you will also be able to reach out to a number of potential buyers within the fashion industry, namely, businesses that may not attend other fashion exhibitions such as MiFUR or the Hong Kong Fur Fair. Also, on offer is the chance to develop and strengthen your brand through new audience acquisition and potential customers where you can test market interests for your products. IFF’s Asia Roadshow also offers you the opportunity to learn about new target markets and to join the fashion industry and brands to re-establish fur and leather as an integral part of fashion, which is beneficial and key to business growth.
Would you like to take part as an exhibitor? Application process to join as exhibitors is now open. We have a very high demand with limited spaces for 2020, should you require an application form please contact me on kmahmood@iftf.com (Miss Kiran Mahmood, IFF Director of Finance)
REGIONAL UPDATES asia —— Asian Board Informal Meeting 2019 The 2019 Asia board informal meeting has been held in Istanbul, Turkey on 18 October 2019. Delegates from various countries and regions communicated and discussed the current situation and development trend of the fur industry. —— China Natural Fur Fashion Courses Training IFF China will work together with Kopenhagen Fur to launch a nature fur fashion course at the Central Academy of Fine Arts in China (CAFA). The course will be held from the 7th to the 14th November and is aimed at undergraduates majoring in design. The course aims to teach young talents about the fur industry and to draw their interest to the industry and its opportunities. —— 2019 China International Animal Welfare Demonstration Farm Selection The 2019 China International Animal Welfare Demonstration Farm will start a new round of assessments in November. The welfare project for mink, fox and raccoon, jointly initiated by the China Leather Industry Association (CLIA) and IFF, is of great significance to the health and
sustainable development of China’s fur industry. This work is an important measure for China’s fur industry to help its integration into the global fur economy, to establish a positive image of its environmental efforts and to help the recognition of the sustainable development in the fur industry.
EUROPE —— Fur Sector Enters Product Environmental Footprint Initiative The European fur sector has entered the European Product Environmental Footprint initiative as part of the technical secretariat on apparel and footwear products. The secretariat is coordinated by the Sustainable Apparel Coalition and includes fashion brands and sectors such as the leather and wool, which work together to develop the so-called PEFCRs. These are guidelines clarifying on how to apply the Product Environmental Footprint method to measure the environmental footprint of products. The European Commission started the initiative amid pressure for a harmonised method assessing the environmental impact of products which confuses consumers. These rules will also apply to fur, and this will enable the fur sector to calculate the environmental footprint and label fur products accordingly.
—— Eu Animal Welfare Centre Designated To Fur Animals The European Commission has designated the second EU Reference Centre for Animal Welfare to the welfare of poultry and other “small farmed animals”, effectively covering species farmed for fur in Europe, which will start to operate in 2020. The move met the fierce objection of animal lobby groups, but the Commission stood behind its decision quoting the need for science-based animal welfare standards. The Reference Centre is made of a consortium of different universities which will develop scientific research and provide technical expertise on animal welfare. In the long run, the Centre will aim to strengthen the enforcement of the animal welfare legislation across Europe.
AMERICA —— New York City Proposed Fur Ban The fur ban bill has effectively stalled in New York City due to grassroots opposition from the trade and key constituencies. However, the adoption of a state-wide ban in California, coupled with the recent announcements of Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s to go fur-free in August 2021, has created a fertile environment for the opposition. The team in New York City remains vigilant and is scheduling new grassroots and advocacy activities to counter the pressure. —— California A.b. 44 After a hard-fought effort in CA, Governor Newsom signed AB44 into law on Oct. 11. During the last weeks as the bill sat in the Governor’s office for consideration our team worked aggressively to rebut claims made by animal extremists, convince the Gov. that AB44 was bad public policy and present our certification program as a better way forward. We are currently exploring options at both the state and local level in California to counter recently passed legislation.
Union held an international forum supported by the IFF as part of Moscow’s Chapeau and Mosfur 2019 exhibition in August for government and business representatives of the Eurasia region. In September, a press conference in Moscow brought together fur manufacturers, representatives of Kopenhagen Fur and SAGA and designers to discuss the current situation of the industry and the coordination of advertising activities.
Top: LVMH and IFF in Krasnoyarsk Bottom: International forum as part of Moscow’s Chapeau and Mosfur 2019
—— 11th International Exhibition of Leather and Fur UzCharmExpo From October 16 to 18, the International Exhibition of Leather and Fur UzCharmExpo took place in Tashkent (Uzbekistan). The exhibition regularly gathers leading domestic and foreign industry enterprises, foreign experts in the leather and fur industry, heads of international industry associations and the media. The exhibition proved to be an effective platform to strengthen and develop national and international industry relations. —— International Fur Gala Show Minsk On October 30, the International Fur Gala show took place in Minsk (Belarus). The shown collections of reflected the latest fashion trends of the next season, using new and advanced technologies.
—— Truth About Fur The TruthAboutFur website and social media platforms continue to provide a strong voice for our industry. The website (www.TruthAboutFur.com) attracted an average of 50,000 visitors per month -- some 1500 visitors each day, with a 24% increase compared with the previous year. The dedicated team is working hard to ensure that the industry’s voice is heard at this crucial time. —— The Fur Council Of Canada The FCC is in the process of developing a pioneering Digital Fur Marketing Program (Fur Trade 2.0) that will include capacity for a virtual fur
show, inventory sharing, and enhanced social media marketing. Furthermore, it is working closely with the Fur Institute of Canada and the federal government to introduce responsible fur labelling (based on the US model), to enhance transparency, trade and consumer reassurance while neutralising activist criticisms that fur is the only clothing not subject to Canadian textile labelling regulations.
EURASIA —— Promoting the fur industry To discuss ways to promote the fur industry and trade, the Russian Fur
—— LVMH and IFF visit Krasnoyarsk LVMH and the IFF visited the city of Krasnoyarsk to learn about wild sable the use of humane traps. Within the framework of the visit, a round table at the Ministry of Ecology and Environmental Management was held to discuss the current state of the sable population in the region, the control over its turnover and the high social importance of fur trapping for the indigenous peoples of the North. It was noted that the current level of sable harvesting does not negatively impact its population and that the existing traceability systems guarantee complete transparency of the entire supply chain.
• REMIX Competition supported by Vogue Talents, Milan • IFF and the Spanish Fur
• Fur Europe AGM, Brussels • Sustainability survey of 150
Association sponsoring Madrid Fashion Week
retailers globally
• IFF sponsoring Condé Nast Conference, Cape Town
JULY
• IFF hosting an event in •
•
•
exposing PETA’s lies about their “skinning alive” video FURMARK being promoted at KF and NAFA auctions
• Fur supply chain survey for IFF Sustainability strategy
• IFF and the Spanish Fur
NOVEMBER
Association sponsoring Madrid Fashion Week
SEPTEMBER
• • •
•
•
•
animal welfare standards including a foie gras ban and restrictions on the use of horse carriages. The proposed fur ban is absent IFF and the Spanish Fur Association hosting an event in partnership with fashion magazine Telva to discuss sustainable luxury Revealing of an IFF billboard ad in premium ski location in Gstaad, Switzerland
• Launch of the new FURMARK programme • IFF hosting the International Fur & Leather Expo Seoul, 24-26 March • IFF launching its Sustainability Strategy • And much more
partnership with GQ during London Fashion Week discussing Fur in menswear IFF and the Romanian Fur Association sponsoring the Elle New Media Awards Romania Kering Livestock Standards referencing to FURMARK
• Peta expenditure campaign launch
• New York City implementing new
OCTOBER
OUTLOOK 2020
Harper’s Bazaar US editors
• IFF sponsoring Financial Times Luxury Summit, Madrid • Skinning Alive campaign launch
AUGUST
IFF’s first big influencer partnership
• FURMARK round table in New York City • FURMARK briefing of Vogue and
JUNE
MAY
APRIL
• California banning fur sales to become law by 2023 • IFF AGM, Istanbul • NAFA and SAGA merging • IFF and LVMH visiting Russia • Nina Suess being contracted for
MARCH
FEBRUARY
JANUARY
•
exposing PETA’s overly large expenditures WWD defending real fur in the course of the NYC fur ban Kering recognising WelFur to meet their sustainability and animal welfare standards IFF launching their Fashion Sustainability campaign being featured in fashion magazines worldwide LVMH publicly announcing to use FURMARK fur as part of their sustainability strategy The British Fur Trade Association hosting a Fashion Sustainability debate at the Danish Embassy in London to coincide with London Fashion Week
DECEMBER
• Publishing of white paper on the
Sustainability strategy in cooperation with Sourcing Journal
For any enquiries, please email: info@iftf.com w w w.we a re f u r. c o m