We Love Budapest pocket guide – Summer 2020

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DINING SIGHTS DINING SIGHTS CYCLING WINE CYCLING WINE

SUMMER

2020 SUMMER / 2020

INTRODUCTION For Budapest, this is a summer like no other. The city is waking from its spring shutdown, opening terraces, creating cycle lanes and showcasing culture by as many means possible.

A holiday mood still imbues Hungary’s gorgeous capital as tourists gradually join locals delighted to rediscover their favourite café or wine bar.

At We Love Budapest, we strive to provide the best insider tips to make every visit memorable. Historic sights and artisanal ice cream, divine cuisine and sassy fashion, we cover the city from top to toe. Welcome to Budapest – and welcome to We Love Budapest!

Due to the pandemic, the opening hours of some venues recommended here may have changed from the regular ones, so always check before you set off.

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CUSTOM PUBLISHING

2020 Launched in 2011, We Love Budapest covers the city’s openings and happenings in Hungarian and English, with a daily stream of original, independent digital content.

Along with our editions for Budapest, Balaton and Hungary, we produce event-focused, custom-published guides. Working in partnership, we create and adapt high-quality material in English and Hungarian to suit clients’ needs.

Throughout 2020, look out for our six seasonally focused printed guides to Budapest, Balaton and Hungary.

BUDAPEST

Tips, maps, explainers and interviews help you discover the capital, the country and its main getaway resort.

Hungary’s elegant capital is known for its ornate baths, historic sights and fine cuisine.

This summer, the accent is on alfresco leisure, the city opening up cycle lanes and its scenic Danube promenade.

Distributed free nationwide!

BALATON

HUNGARY

Hungary’s prime family summer retreat still offers plenty of quality dining, fine wines and outdoor activities. Look out for our regularly updated website welovebalaton.hu/en in English.

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With national parks and palaces, wildlife and wineries, spa-blessed Hungary has attractions from Baroque Sopron in the west to bucolic Hortobágy in the east.

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CONTENTS

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CONTENTS INTRODUCTION

DINING & DRINKING

Useful information.....................................................................................................12 10 best things to do this summer.........................................................................16

7 top terraces and gardens great for alfresco dining.....................................42 5 new-wave cafés serving quality coffee..........................................................44 EXPLAINER – Coffeehouse culture.......................................................................46 5 classic Hungarian dishes created in Budapest.............................................48 7 eateries serving mouthwatering Mediterranean cuisine..........................50 INTERVIEW – Pizzica duo Paolo & Enrico de Bartolomeo............................ 52 7 quality confectioneries serving exquisite cakes..........................................54 5 ice-cream outlets ideal for summer................................................................56 7 terrific terraces to raise a glass or two............................................................58 5 discerning Hungarian vintners selling prime wines...................................60 EXPLAINER – A spirit for every occasion...........................................................62 5 purveyors of craft beer and prime spirits......................................................64

SIGHTS & ATTRACTIONS 7 essential attractions that make Budapest Budapest.................................. 22 7 superlative landmarks around Budapest.......................................................24 5 hidden villas on Gellért Hill with stories to tell...........................................26 EXPLAINER – All aboard the Children’s Railway!............................................ 28 5 fascinating features around Kerepesi cemetery..........................................30 5 gorgeous examples of Art Nouveau................................................................. 32 7 surviving retro neon signs that still light up Budapest.............................34 7 Instagram accounts capturing Budapest curiosities.................................. 36 7 famous Hungarian names behind Budapest’s metro stations............... 38

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ART & CULTURE

SHOPS & MARKETS

7 striking statues of Hungarian cultural giants................................................68 5 Budapest exhibitions to enjoy anywhere in the world.............................70 EXPLAINER – Hungarian photography............................................................... 72 5 marvellous murals depicting Hungarian history......................................... 74 7 cute Kolodko statuettes to spot around town.............................................. 76 INTERVIEW – Crown maker Mark Rimmell....................................................... 78 7 classic Hungarian films to enjoy in English...................................................80 7 crafty Hungarian idioms to impress your friends....................................... 82

7 marvellous markets for healthy local produce............................................98 7 brilliant bakeries for fine breads and pastries...........................................100 EXPLAINER – Searching for retro treasure...................................................... 102 5 boutiques for weird and wonderful finds...................................................104 7 outstanding outlets for retro and vintage fashion....................................106 INTERVIEW – retro connoisseur Zarina Isambaeva.....................................108 5 fantastic Hungarian fashion designers..........................................................110 5 phenomenal Hungarian designers found at wonderLAB........................ 112 5 fabulous florists for lovely flowers and plants............................................114

ACTIVE & HEALTHY 5 English-friendly activities for the whole family to enjoy.........................86 5 brilliant cycle routes around Budapest..........................................................88 EXPLAINER – How to spa........................................................................................90 7 great green getaways within Budapest..........................................................92 5 healthy hiking options close to Budapest.....................................................94

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AROUND BUDAPEST Useful information.................................................................................................. 120 5 great escapes from Budapest............................................................................122 7 wonderful waterside spots............................................................................... 124 7 great reasons to visit Szentendre................................................................... 126 EXPLAINER – The mysterious mummies of Vác........................................... 128 7 great reasons to visit Vác................................................................................... 130 7 great reasons to visit Visegrád..........................................................................132 7 great reasons to visit Esztergom..................................................................... 134

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We love Budapest, Balaton, Hungary and the holidays, but to enjoy them and keep quarantine at bay, here are some simple tips that should still be part of your daily routine while you’re here!

Wear gloves. A pair is recommended if you touch anything like a handrail, a door handle or a button that many others have already pressed.

Wear a mask whenever you’re indoors. It may be warm and uncomfortable, but it protects against infection. Take it with you into any bar or restaurant before you eat or drink.

Keep your distance. Queuing at any food stand, spa or bar, remain a minimum of 1.5 metres from the nearest customer.

Disinfect. Hand sanitisers are freely available, even on tables in restaurants.

Use them regularly – and always wash your hands with soap after you enter anywhere.

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USEFUL INFOR MATION

USEFUL INFOR MATION

BUDAPEST is the capital of Hungary. Visitors from the EU, the US and many other countries do not require a visa for stays of up to 90 days.

The Hungarian currency is the forint.

Currently, there are about 350 forints to €1. A beer costs about 700 forints/€2.

DISTRICT VI & CITY PARK

PEST BUDA

FROM THE AIRPORT DISTRICT V

DISTRICT I

Your flight to Budapest Airport (bud.hu) will arrive into terminals 2A or 2B in adjacent buildings. Exiting terminal 2, you see a line of people waiting by the taxi kiosk. Cabs run by Főtaxi (fotaxi.hu) charge about 8,000 forints (€22) into town.

DISTRICT VII

DISTRICT VIII

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Tipping is standard in taxis, bars and restaurants. The custom is to round up the figure by about 10% and suggest this to the driver or server. If drinks cost 1,800 forints, say ‘2,000’ as you pay, even across a bar counter. Most service staff speak English.

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

Past the taxi booth is the stop for frequent bus 100E to the centre, journey time 45mins. Alongside, tickets (900 HUF/€2.50), indicated by a plane logo, can be purchased with cash or card.

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USEFUL INFOR MATION

AROUND THE CITY Budapest has four metro lines, and an efficient and extensive network of trams, buses, night buses and trolleybuses, overseen by BKK (bkk.hu/en). Nearly all locations around the city are close to a stop or station of some kind, with reliable schedules posted up. Currently, passengers must wear a mask or a face covering when using public transport.

The same tickets are valid for each form of transport, but not interchangeable between them. You may change metro stations with the same ticket, however. Each costs 350 forints/€1 for 1 or 3,000 forints/€8.40 for ten, sold at machines by stops and in stations. Stamp once you board or by the escalators/platform on the metro. Buying a ticket from the bus/tram driver costs 450 forints/€1.25.

There are passes for 24hrs, 72hrs and so on. Other forms of transport, including boats and the chairlift, require different tickets. BKK information offices at main hubs such as airport terminals 2A/2B, Deák Ferenc tér and Keleti station, can provide information, maps and tickets.

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ONLINE!

At We Love Budapest, we cover the city every day with bright, original, independent content in English. Our previews, reviews and interviews focus on every new opening and happening in Hungary’s vibrant capital. As market leader, at welovebudapest.com/en we have 48,000 followers on Facebook, over 100,000 on Instagram and more than 15,000 followers on Twitter. Join us!

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INTRODUCTION

INTRODUCTION

10 best things

Savour tasty ice cream

to do this summer

Sink spritzers on the terrace

Budapest has opened up its café and bar terraces for summer. The Akvárium on downtown Erzsébet tér is particularly popular, with tables ranged by a large public water feature.

Summer isn’t summer without your favourite ice cream, and outlets around Budapest offer creamy artisanal specialities, imaginative flavours and even scoops fashioned in the shape of roses.

See the sights free of tourists

If you’re tired of crowds and selfie sticks, this is your year. Places like Buda Castle and Heroes’ Square, normally swarming with sightseers, are now pleasantly empty.

Stroll in an exotic garden

Dine by the Danube

Margaret Island is home to a lush, relaxing Japanese garden while the ELTE Botanical Garden contains everything from water lilies to towering banana trees.

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Along the Danube, there are great spots to tuck into classic Hungarian beach food, such as lángos or hake. The Római part in Óbuda is one, its riverbank lined with eateries.

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INTRODUCTION

INTRODUCTION

Take to two wheels

New cycle lanes along major arteries such as the Grand Boulevard have been created, a positive aspect of the shutdown underscored by a cheaper MOL Bubi bike-hire network.

Try a water sport

Ride the chairlift

If you’ve been thinking about giving water sports a try, now’s the time.

Options include wakeboarding at Omszk Lake and Lupa Beach, and kayaking and canoeing on Római part.

Conveying pairs of passengers, this fun, alternative mode of transport calmly glides up the side of János Hill in about 15 minutes, providing panoramic views of the Buda surroundings.

Make a splash at the baths

Even though not all baths are currently operational, family-friendly ones such as the Palatinus, the Dagály and Római fürdő are welcoming bathers who follow the rules of social distancing.

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Reclaim the Danube bank

The Pest embankment between Margaret Bridge and Közraktár utca is closed to cars every weekend until September. Pedestrians, cyclists and skaters can roam around freely along the river.

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SIGHTS & ATTRACTIONS Budapest has so many sights and attractions to see – and so many ways to see them. Historic landmarks from the late 1800s grace the skyline, interspersed by modern makeovers, backdropped by the Buda hills and best viewed from vantage points such as Citadella.

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SIGHTS & ATTRAC TIONS

Castle District

SIGHTS & ATTRAC TIONS

CITADELLA Atop Gellért Hill, crowned by the statue of Lady Liberty, Citadella is a fortress built by the Habsburgs after the 1848 Revolution.

Unbeatable views are its main attraction. District XI. Citadella sétány DANUBE PROMENADE Thrown open to cyclists and pedestrians every weekend during summer 2020, the Danube bank on the Pest side is lined with top-tier hotels, deluxe dining destinations and the ornate Pesti Vigadó.

HEROES’ SQUARE Flanked by two stately galleries, Heroes’ Square features a half-moon colonnade of statues, 14 emblematic figures from Hungarian history and seven Magyar chieftains. District XIV. Hősök tere

7 ESSENTIAL ATTRACTIONS THAT MAKE BUDAPEST BUDAPEST

Heroes’ Square

PARLIAMENT The stunning neo-Gothic Parliament, one of the city’s finest architectural landmarks, stands 96 metres tall, built for the 1896 millennial celebrations. District V. Kossuth Lajos tér 1-3. parlament.hu

BASILICA Named after Hungary’s patron saint and first king Stephen, this ornate church contains the holy relic of his preserved right hand.

A lift provides access to the dome. District V. Szent István tér 1. bazilika.biz BUDA CASTLE Crowning Castle Hill, this sprawling palace houses the National Gallery and library. Close by, Fisherman’s Bastion provides a fine panorama from its lookout towers. District I. Szent György tér/ Szentháromság tér CHAIN BRIDGE Any stroll of Budapest can start at the iconic Chain Bridge, the first permanent span between Buda and Pest completed

by Scot Adam Clark in 1849 before the capital merged in 1873.

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SIGHTS & ATTRAC TIONS

Elizabeth Lookout Tower

SIGHTS & ATTRAC TIONS

NORTH BUDA HEATING POWER PLANT The tallest building in town – bearing in mind Budapest is not a city of skyscrapers – is an industrial one, the tower of the North Buda Heating Power Plant, at 203 metres high. District III. Kunigunda útja 49 NAGYVÁRAD TÉR THEORETICAL DEPARTMENT All towers over 100 metres may only serve industrial purposes. This part of Semmelweis medical university is the largest tower block in the city, at 86 metres tall. District VIII. Nagyvárad tér 4. semmelweis.hu ÜLLŐI ÚT The longest road is Üllői út, once the main thoroughfare towards Szolnok, which stretches for about 15 kilometres, past five districts. Its highest house number is 873, which is a local record in itself.

FLÓRIÁN TÉR The largest building in Budapest is not Buda Castle but the 338-metre-long communal block built in 1970 at Flórián tér in Óbuda. It contains 885 flats with at least 3,000 residents in total.

District III. Flórián tér

Gül Baba utca

7 SUPERLATIVE LANDMARKS AROUND BUDAPEST

VÖRÖS SÜN HÁZ Red Hedgehog House in the Castle District is thought to be the city’s oldest building, constructed around 1260.

This is also documented as the first two-storey house in Buda.

District I. Hess András tér

GÜL BABA UTCA Redolent of Budapest’s Turkish era, this street holds two records: not only is it the steepest in the city, but at the top, the tomb of the namesake poet is the northernmost place of pilgrimage in Islam. District II. Gül Baba utca JÁNOS HILL Many know that the highest point in Budapest is 529-metre-high János Hill – but few appreciate that it was once also called Bratislava Hill, after the city you could see in clear weather.

The Elizabeth Lookout Tower now stands on the top.

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Rosenfeld Villa

SIGHTS & ATTRAC TIONS

Bayer Villa

SIGHTS & ATTRAC TIONS

ROSENFELD VILLA This block was designed by Emil Vidor, also responsible for the House of Hungarian Art Nouveau on Honvéd utca.

The porch here reflects Eastern influences and ingenious architectural solutions. District I. Kelenhegyi út 6 WENCKHEIM VILLA Head of the host family Baron József Wenckheim was a great car enthusiast, even when vehicles were a rarity. As Buda had few petrol stations, the baron was forced to set one up in his own garden here. District I. Mányoki út 3

BAYER VILLA More castle than villa, this once housed the Swedish embassy. While Nazi chief Otto Winkelmann was across Gellért Hill working on deportations, diplomat Raoul Wallenberg was organising their rescue. District I. Minerva utca 3 HEGEDŰS VILLA This red-brick landmark is as much part of the cityscape as the Lady Liberty statue rising behind. Wealthy Frigyes Schoch admired a similar villa outside Genoa and built this replica.

District II. Orom utca 4

Wenckheim Villa

5 HIDDEN VILLAS ON GELLÉRT HILL WITH STORIES TO TELL

MŰVÉSZHÁZ The imposing blue House of Culture is instantly recognisable from its huge windows and distinctive colours. Renowned Hungarian artists Viktor Madarász, Béla Czóbel and József Rippl-Rónai all lived and created here. District I. Mányoki út 1 26

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ALL ABOARD THE CHILDREN’S RAILWAY! Chugging along the ridge of the Buda Hills, the Children’s Railway (Gyermekvasút) is one of Budapest’s most unique attractions, a rolling relic staffed by youngsters. A rare popular remnant of the Communist era, it was introduced in 1948, when scores of other so-called pioneer railways were being set up across the Soviet Union and Eastern bloc. Budapest’s covers a scenic path along nine stops between Széchenyi Hill and Hűvösvölgy, its narrow-gauge line crossing with the Cogwheel Railway and serving popular excursion sites Normafa and János Hill. While grown-ups drive the train, all other services are carried out by uniformed schoolchildren, some in red caps, who check tickets and act as guards. Lookout points, forest playgrounds, places of pilgrimage and other hilly attractions lie close to certain stops, making the Children’s Railway the ideal jumping-off point for a day’s outing. Tickets can be purchased at each station – from a young volunteer, of course.

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Arcade

SIGHTS & ATTRAC TIONS

József Antall

SIGHTS & ATTRAC TIONS

LAJOS KOSSUTH MAUSOLEUM Beneath this vast monument lies Lajos Kossuth, the 19th-century leader who spent much of his life in exile.

He died in 1894, his body sent to Budapest when the city was flourishing after the 1867 Compromise he so vehemently opposed.

5 FASCINATING FEATURES AROUND KEREPESI CEMETERY

ARCADE Restored in 2020, this symmetrical feature was built 1904-08.

Imposing statues and graceful domed ceilings replete with mosaics line the 90-metre-long arcade, where the Gundel gastronomic dynasty and general Artúr Görgei rest in peace.

Workers’ Pantheon

JÓZSEF ANTALL Here lies the first democratically elected Prime Minister of Hungary. His tomb at Kerepesi is a dominating sculpture showing men on horseback lunging forward, created by Miklós Melocco six years after Antall’s death.

WORKERS’ PANTHEON Erected after the failed Uprising of 1956, this pantheon was designed to contain the urns of 365 outstanding Socialist figures. After the overthrow of Communism in 1989, the monument was to be demolished, but was eventually spared.

BATTHYÁNY MAUSOLEUM This magnificent monument was created 20 years after Count Lajos Batthyány was executed by the Austrians, the Hungarians able to give their national hero a stately send-off after the Compromise with Vienna in 1867.

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Gellért Baths

SIGHTS & ATTRAC TIONS

Gresham Palace

SIGHTS & ATTRAC TIONS

HUNGARIAN STATE TREASURY Art Nouveau pioneer Ödön Lechner decorated the State Treasury with features indicating the function of the building: bees, beehives and dragons guarding treasure.

District V. Hold utca 4. allamkincstar.gov.hu

5 GORGEOUS EXAMPLES OF ART NOUVEAU

GRESHAM PALACE This former insurance building, restored to its former glory as a five-star hotel, is a fine example of Art Nouveau, gracing the square overlooking the Chain Bridge. District V. Széchenyi István tér 5-6. fourseasons.com/budapest

Gresham Palace

GELLÉRT Now just past its centenary, the Gellért is a revered riverside landmark of hotel and baths, planned before World War I when Art Nouveau was at its height. District XI. Kelenhegyi út 4. gellertfurdo.hu

MUSEUM OF APPLIED ARTS Though currently closed for renovation, this extraordinary Art Nouveau construction can still be admired from the outside, in particular its bright green Zsolnay roof. District IX. Üllői út 33-37. imm.hu

HOUSE OF HUNGARIAN ART NOUVEAU Also called the Bedő House after its former owner, this is still the residence of his heirs, functioning as an Art Nouveau museum and independent gallery, Art+Text.

District V. Honvéd utca 3. magyarszecessziohaza.hu 32

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SIGHTS & ATTRAC TIONS

Antiquarian Owl

SIGHTS & ATTRAC TIONS

BIZTOSÍTÁS – BIZTONSÁG These huge neon insurance signs rise from the rooftops when you emerge from Déli station. Although their light has long since gone out, they provide an exciting memento of the past, with a general warning about travelling today.

District XII. Alkotás utca 7A-7B ELECTROTECHNICAL MUSEUM Where Budapest’s neon is put to bed, this courtyard is lined with old signs, an elegant swan advertising laundry, a glowing chicken enticing carnivores.

Illuminated for Night of the Museums in June. District VII. Kazinczy utca 21. facebook.com/elektromuzeum HÚSBOLT, KÁVÉ TEA Although the shops they advertise no longer operate under these signs just off Andrássy út, the neon is still special. The grocery store that has moved into these old premises decided to keep them. District VI. Benczúr utca 39B PINGVIN SÖRÖZŐ What could be more convivial than a dapper penguin bringing you your beer? Above the tables set outside this busy local bar near Kosztolányi Dezső tér, a neon sign glows with the bird’s bright beak. District XI. Bocskai út 33. pingvinpub.hu

ANTIQUARIAN OWL This endangered species illuminates the line of second-hand bookstores opposite the National Museum, its eyes glowing red and yellow against a fierce blue. One of the few neon examples left in the city centre. District V. Múzeum körút 11-15 AUTOEXPORT MOSZKVA This neon from Socialist times atop Bem rakpart can be seen from Margaret Bridge. You can even make out the company logo. When this firm imported Soviet cars, it was a minimum five-year wait for a Zhiguli. District II. Bem rakpart 54-55

Electrotechnical Museum

7 SURVIVING RETRO NEON SIGNS THAT STILL LIGHT UP BUDAPEST

BAMBI The retro of all retros, the Bambi café is where time seems to have stopped around 1965. Its name is spelled out as a yellow neon inscription in elegant curlicued lettering, a hint of the timeless heaven within. District II. Frankel Leó út 2-4 34

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SIGHTS & ATTRAC TIONS

@gangvegek

SIGHTS & ATTRAC TIONS

@STATUESOFBUDAPEST One of the most popular Budapest-based accounts, this extensive collection features over 500 pictures of the beautiful, inspiring and unique sculptures around the city. @STREETARTBUDAPEST From stickers to murals to clever graffiti, this account shows what most guidebooks won’t feature: street art!

The city is covered in user-submitted art, and this is the place to enjoy it all. @WELOVEBUDAPEST Wait, didn’t you know we have an Instagram account, too? Featuring images and articles from the site, as well as extra, previously unpublished photos, this is the easiest way to stay up to date on all things Budapest, from your roving WLB team.

@bpdoors

7 INSTAGRAM ACCOUNTS CAPTURING BUDAPEST CURIOSITIES

@ZUGLOVE Explore the past via this timeless account, which mixes original content with archive photos, showing the true past and present of Budapest.

@BPDOORS Doors are the first connection we have to a place – be it a house, room, even a city. Budapest is full of interesting entrances, from ornate and inspiring to strictly functional, and this account documents the very best. @BUDAPESTIANFLOORS Don’t forget to look down! Sometimes, the floor is the most interesting part, and this account, run by Krisztina Kovács, shows what many people overlook. Not only is the content interesting, but each shot is beautifully composed. @GANGVEGEK Budapest is renowned for its architecture, and this account shows it all: from sprawling courtyards to the smallest detail.

Follow along for inspiring shots of spiralling stairwells, crumbling façades, ornate balustrades, mosaic ceilings and more.

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SIGHTS & ATTRAC TIONS

Vörösmarty tér

SIGHTS & ATTRAC TIONS

KODÁLY KÖRÖND Named after the composer, musicologist and influential pedagogue Zoltán Kodály, this station sits on the rond-point of the same name where his memorial museum also stands.

KOSSUTH LAJOS TÉR Patriotic politician linked with the 1848 Revolution, this one-time UK exile appropriately provides the nearest metro connection to Parliament.

MÓRICZ ZSIGMOND KÖRTÉR On contemporary line 4 and still a major tram hub, this metro station and the relandscaped Buda square are named after the 20th-century Hungarian writer, Zsigmond Móricz.

7 FAMOUS HUNGARIAN NAMES BEHIND BUDAPEST’S METRO STATIONS

Kodály körönd

VÖRÖSMARTY TÉR The terminus of the Millennium Underground – the first on continental Europe – is named after the writer of Szózat (‘Appeal’), considered Hungary’s second anthem.

BATTHYÁNY TÉR This square and namesake station carry the name of Hungary’s first prime minister, unjustly executed after the 1848 Revolution. Today it provides the best view of Parliament across the river.

BLAHA LUJZA TÉR The nightingale of the nation, actress Lujza Blaha lends her name to the square that once housed the National Theatre, now a main junction and metro station. Her portraits are displayed at platform level.

DEÁK FERENC TÉR Named after the Wise Man of the Nation who helped engineer the Compromise of 1867 with Vienna, Deák Ferenc tér station is in the heart of Budapest, where three metro lines meet.

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DINING & DRINKING Still with six restaurants sporting Michelin stars, a global range of street food and a significant number of kitchens offering vegan and gluten-free dishes, Budapest can satisfy the needs of the most discerning of diners. Lively breakfast spots, historic coffeehouses and artisanal icecream outlets complete the picture.

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DINING & DRINKING

DINING & DRINKING

Bartók

7 TOP TERRACES AND GARDENS GREAT FOR ALFRESCO DINING BARTÓK Everyone’s favourite boulevard in Buda is coming back to life, one of the first busy terrace spots being Bartók.

Assorted tapas are complemented by a stellar weekday lunch menu.

District XI. Bartók Béla út 9. facebook.com/bartokgastropub ÉPÍTÉSZPINCE In the student quarter by the Ervin Szabó Library, the Architects’ Cellar features a peaceful courtyard garden. Choose from an abundant menu of Hungarian classics or beer snacks and salads.

District VIII. Ötpacsirta utca 2. epiteszpince.hu

Építészpince

JARDINETTE Surrounded by greenery, Jardinette can be reached by urban scooter or bike, along with tram 59. Its beautiful garden is filled with the scent of hearty, traditional Hungarian cooking, with drinks to match. District XI. Németvölgyi út 136. jardinette.hu

KIOSK PEST Right on Danube-facing Március 15 tér in town, KIOSK offers a crowd-pleasing mix of classic mains, pizzas and burgers, with foie gras and summer salads hiding among the starters. District V. Március 15 tér 4. kiosk-budapest.com MAJORKA This lovely garden venue at Városmajor appeals to carnivores with ten types of burger, hearty meaty sandwiches and chicken-based mains, partaken in a child-friendly garden under plentiful shade.

District II. Szilágyi Erzsébet fasor 16. majorka.hu MENZA ÉTTEREM ÉS KÁVÉZÓ This popular eatery spreads its pretty terrace on prominent Liszt Ferenc tér. Choose from the regular, weekly or daily menu, and a wealth of well-made mainly Magyar-style dishes.

District VI. Liszt Ferenc tér 2. menzaetterem.hu NÁNCSI NÉNI VENDÉGLŐJE An evergreen favourite in leafy Buda, ‘Auntie Náncsi’ has long attracted those craving traditional flavours, checked tablecloths and a large, shaded garden. District II. Ördögárok út 80. nancisneni.hu

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DINING & DRINKING

DINING & DRINKING

My Little Melbourne

5 NEW-WAVE CAFÉS SERVING QUALITY COFFEE APRICOT Located on a sunny thoroughfare, this charming coffeeshop has a small outdoor seated area. Inside, all sorts of coffee-making accessories are available, from French presses to travel mugs, as well as Apricot’s own single-origin blend. District VIII. Bródy Sándor utca 17. apricotcoffee.hu CAFÉ ANALÓG Photography enthusiasts will love this District VII novelty. Enjoy a hand-crafted espresso then shop for speciality Polaroid film. They’ve even got a working laboratory in the back where you can get your film developed! District VII. Kazinczy utca 35. cafeanalog.hu CUBE COFFEE BAR Featuring exposed brick walls and chic modern décor, the Cube serves light-roast coffees, low-carb cakes, freshly-baked pastries and a daily menu full of seasonal delights. Cool, welcoming, relaxed and dog-friendly! District VI. Hunyadi tér 8. facebook.com/ cubecoffeebar

FOREST CAFÉ Despite their slogan ‘naked in the woods’, you could and should keep your clothes on, but you’ll still love the natural vibe of this downtown java hotspot. Home-baked goods and vegetarian lunch options also feature. District V. Papnövelde utca 2. facebook.com/ ForestCafeHungary

Apricot

Cube Coffee Bar

MY LITTLE MELBOURNE Sip the shop’s speciality drink, the Aussie Cappuccino, on a sunny outdoor terrace, at the edge of the Jewish District.

On hot summer days, the affogato, espresso with ice cream, should not be missed. District VII. Madách Imre út 3. mylittlemelbourne.hu

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COFFEEHOUSE CULTURE Budapest’s ornate coffeehouses are part of its urban history.

Their fin-de-siècle splendour echoes a coffee-drinking culture that came with the Ottomans and pre-dated the cafés of Paris.

Many were literary haunts, essential to the rise of a Hungarian culture in a city dominated by German until Budapest developed as a dual capital in its own right. Here writers could spend a whole day over a single espresso, dispatching their articles written at a coffeehouse table over to their newspaper offices.

In 1900, Budapest contained 600 coffeehouses, including the grandiose New York Café, where filmmakers and potential starlets would mingle before Hollywood beckoned. Today, you can still sit and sip amid its gilded grandeur. The Centrál in town, Hadik in Buda and the Művész on Andrássy út have all been revamped with reverence for their cultural heritage – note the foundation date of 1887 and portraits of Hungary’s literary greats as you enter the Centrál.

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Flódni

DINING & DRINKING

Gundel pancake

DINING & DRINKING

PALÓC SOUP This dense broth is only named after the region where potatoes, mutton and dill are popular. János Gundel showcased the new dish at the hotel where restaurant guests including gourmand novelist Kálmán Mikszáth, who spread the word in literary form.

5 CLASSIC HUNGARIAN DISHES CREATED IN BUDAPEST

FLÓDNI No-one can prove that this cousin of strudel was born in Budapest but flódni – with apples, walnuts, poppies and plum jam – first appeared in Hungarian Jewish cookbooks in the late 1800s, its recipe apparently created by a mother from the city’s Yiddish-speaking community.

ÚJHÁZI CHICKEN SOUP Named after a well-known actor of the late 1800s, this fortifying dish was another created at Wampetics, the forerunner of Gundel. It was made from chicken, but novelist Zsigmond Móricz, a good friend of Újházi, also mentions roosters in various writings. Újházi chicken soup

BRASSÓI APRÓPECSENYE Legends surround Brassói aprópecsenye, Brasov roast. Some believe it comes from Brasov, Transylvania, others associate it with the dining cars of the Brasov Express train. More credible is that it was created at the legendary Mátyás Pince, from pork, bacon and garlic.

GUNDEL PANCAKE Dozens of dishes could be taken as examples from the Gundel cookbook but this one, created by a certain Ilona Matzner, Lola to regulars, is the most iconic. Károly Gundel liked the chocolate dessert so much that he asked for the recipe and put it on the menu.

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DINING & DRINKING

DINING & DRINKING

Pata Negra

7 EATERIES SERVING MOUTHWATERING MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE BLUE AGORI Greek eatery Blue Agori on downtown Madách tér serves quality kebabs and platters, with authentic tzatziki, olives and fresh spices. Consume on the terrace or in the tasteful interior in trademark blue and white. District VII. Madách Imre út 1. blueagori.com DIGÓ First sold at festivals, these phenomenal pizzas are now served at a permanent location in the bar hub. Flavours conform to Neapolitan tradition, the toppings carefully sourced, the dough hand-rolled then put into a wood-fired oven. District VII. Kazinczy utca 32. digopizza.hu

MANU+ The popular Pizza Manufaktúra outgrew its old spot and moved, oven and all, into downtown Unger House, designed by Miklós Ybl of Opera House fame. Now more Neapolitan that Roman in style – note the San Marzano tomatoes from Vesuvius – the restaurant expanded in 2019 to deal with ever-increasing demand. District V. Múzeum körút 7. facebook.com/manusecondchapter

Blue Agori

MAZI Beyond the stereotypes of Greek cuisine, Mazi showcases a complex, healthy, delicious selection, illustrated by real-deal kebabs, grilled octopus and feta burgers. Design by Gáspár Bonta similarly avoids tired Hellenic clichés. District V. Alkotmány utca 19. facebook.com/mazigreekkitchen

PATA NEGRA A labour of love for the Hispanophile owners, Pata Negra is the original, prominent branch of a mini-chain of eateries underscored

by Spanish cuisine. Here, amid authentic tiling and décor, tapas and platters are the focus, along with tintos, blancos and rosados. District IX. Kálvin tér 8. patanegra.hu PIZZICA Two brothers run this cool locale on Budapest’s Broadway, using original Italian ingredients to create square-shaped pizzas with light dough. In spring 2020, they opened Pizzica Due in the student quarter of Egyetem tér. District VI. Nagymező utca 21. facebook.com/ pizzicapizza TRATTORIA POMO D’ORO In the business quarter, thin-crust pizza is baked to perfection in a wood-fired oven, while seafood and steak also feature. For something sweet, head to their gelateria a few doors along.

District V. Arany János utca 9. pomodorobudapest.com

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INTERVIEW

INTERVIEW

thers, Pizzica Run by the de Bartolomeo bro st, one offering now has two outlets in Budape pasta.

Roman-style pizza, the other,

Paolo and Enrico de Bartolomeo (Pizzica)

pizza in Italy. Why did you WLB: There are many types of choose the Roman variety?

– it’s a very regional thing.

PdB: In Italy, pizza is like pasta street food, with a solid, thick The Roman style is perfect for with toppings and doesn’t base that can be well packed her Enrico and I came require plates or cutlery. My brot e flavours as well, but from Puglia, so we included thos . basically the Roman style is ours shutdown, you offered WLB: At Pizzica Due during the will pizza make a comeback pasta. Will the pasta stay or on Egyetem tér? wanted to run both outlets, PdB: During the pandemic, we food to take away, not just and it was important to offer a at both, however, so we for delivery. We didn’t want pizz pasta in the university figured there would be pop-up so when everything gets quarter. People really loved it, rn but pasta is here to stay! back to normal, pizza will retu

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DINING & DRINKING

Chez Dodo

DINING & DRINKING

EGY CSIPET TORTA A workshop rather than boutique, ‘A Pinch of Cake’ can be contacted midweek by Facebook message to have your treat ready for the weekend. They also deliver in their refrigerated car.

As well as cakes, sundaes and savoury items also feature. facebook.com/egycsipettorta GERBEAUD Budapest’s most renowned confectionery has started up its sister delivery operation, Petit Gerbeaud, and introduced a pianist on their prominent terrace in town. Cakes still echo the grand era of Émile Gerbeaud. District V. Vörösmarty tér 7. petitgerbeaud.hu SOVÁNY VIGASZ There’s no sign of gluten, sugar or lactose here, although you wouldn’t know it given the amazing flavours. The shop is currently open Tuesday through Saturday, orders delivered on Saturdays.

District XIII. Hollán Ernő utca 20. facebook.com/sovanyvigasz SÜTIT AKAROK! Making their delights with real chocolate, real butter and real cream, I Want Cake! create irresistible desserts to be picked up from their outlet behind the Komjádi Béla pool.

District II. Frankel Leó út 72. facebook.com/sutitakarokblog

CHEZ DODO Charming Chez Dodo produce special, seasonal and always crunchy macarons and other types of desserts that can be ordered for home delivery, taken away or perused at their counter in the city centre.

District V. Sas utca 7. facebook.com/chezdodomacaron

Gerbeaud

7 QUALITY CONFECTIONERIES SERVING EXQUISITE CAKES

CHOUCHOU This producer of addictive desserts in Újlipótváros creates sweet poetry from the French canon. See their current offering on their Facebook page – selected cakes can be picked up in person or delivered via Édes Város. District XIII. Hegedűs Gyula utca 23. facebook.com/ chouchoucsokolade DOLCISSIMA Celebrating their fifth anniversary in May 2020, this Italian confectionery offers the best cannoli in town. Cakes and pastries are available in the shop or Wolt can deliver to your door. District II. Frankel Leó út 21. facebook.com/DolcissimaBudapest 54

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DINING & DRINKING

DINING & DRINKING

Kell Fagylalt?

5 ICE-CREAM OUTLETS IDEAL FOR SUMMER CIOCCOLATTE FAGYLALTOZÓ This Italian ice cream, coffee and dessert haven is open for visitors, takeaways and delivery. Bronte pistachio, Piemonte hazelnut or ginger-mascarpone might all feature in an ever-changing range. District XIII. Pozsonyi út 7. facebook.com. cioccolattefagylaltozo ERDŐS ÉS FIAI An oasis of delight in Újbuda, Erdős and Sons specialise in recreating desserts and pastries as ice creams. They also experiment with surprising ones such as wasabi-white chocolate and basil-tomato sorbet. District XI. Etele tér 3. facebook.com/ErdosEsFiaiCukraszda

KELL FAGYLALT? Városmajor is a fine site for an ice-cream outlet – which is why Kő fagyi? moved here from Balaton. Classic flavours include poppy, walnut and peach, extras pumpkin seed and Amarena cherry. Seats outside or home delivery. District XII. Maros utca 17. facebook.com/kellfagylalt

GELARTO ROSA By the Basilica, Gelarto Rosa offers an exciting range of ice creams, fashioned in the form of a rose, hence the name. The shop remains open daily with limited customer numbers or you can order to your home. District V. Szent István tér 3. gelartorosa.com

Gelarto Rosa

Erdős és Fiai

MAMO GELATO Along with the many types of imaginative ice cream here, parfait cups are a house speciality. Your ice cream – mango-yoghurt, caramelised figs with mascarpone – can come in a traditional cone, a brioche or between two biscuits. District IX. Ráday utca 24. mamogelato.com

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Akvárium Klub

DINING & DRINKING

FELLINI RÓMAI KULTÚRBISZTRÓ The stripy deckchairs are back out! With a great location on the Római shore in Óbuda, lapped by the Danube, the funky Fellini embodies post-shutdown fun, with opening hours until midnight. District III. Kossuth Lajos üdülőpart 5. felliniroma.hu KABIN The most laid-back spot on the island of Népsziget awaits guests by the Danube. Cooling drinks, friendly service and light snacks underline this family-friendly spot, just over the bridge from Újpest-városkapu metro station. District XIII. Népsziget út 727. facebook.com/kabinpart NAP BÁCSI One of the loveliest waterfront locations on the Római shore, Nap bácsi offers affordable wines and Czech Holba beer as sun sets over the Danube. Bring a blanket to spread out at this wide riverside space.

District III. Kossuth Lajos üdülőpart 9. facebook.com/napbacsi

AKVÁRIUM KLUB One of the city’s main clubs and most popular outdoor venues started the post-quarantine season with a two-day party. The prominent sunken terrace catches the evening’s last rays.

District V. Erzsébet tér 12. akvariumklub.hu BÉLA The big hitter on trendy Bartók Béla út, BÉLA has opened its summer terrace – finding a table can be tricky, so do arrive early. Choose from an unchanged selection of sophisticated wines, ice-cold beers and sassy cocktails. District XI. Bartók Béla út 23. belabudapest.com

Fellini Római Kultúrbisztró

7 TERRIFIC TERRACES TO RAISE A GLASS OR TWO

SZALONSPICC Some 70 wines are available at this terrace by Millenáris Park. Most are Hungarian, 20 or so sold by the glass. Bubbles are this summer’s trend, champagnes, cavas and proseccos. District II. Lövőház utca 17. facebook.com/szalonspicc

ÉLESZTŐHÁZ Budapest’s pioneering craft-beer pub has reopened its taps. In a bohemian-industrial courtyard, the Yeast House awaits a thirsty crowd with decent domestic and foreign small-batch brews, poured with expertise. District IX. Tűzoltó utca 22. facebook.com/elesztohaz 58

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DINING & DRINKING

Bortársaság

5 DISCERNING HUNGARIAN VINTNERS SELLING PRIME WINES ARTIZÁN Every Hungarian wine region from Badacsony to Villány is covered at this major distribution company based down in Kelenföld, with a swift delivery service. All orders over 15,000 forints are dispatched free of charge. facebook.com/Artizankereskedes BORIRODA Wine bar, wine shop and convivial place to meet, the ‘Wine Office’ operates from 2pm five days a week from its base behind Déli station. It’s large enough to host wine-tasting sessions and special events. District XII. Németvölgyi út 6. facebook.com/boriroda BORTÁRSASÁG Set up in 1993 by two wine lovers from the UK and Hungary, the pioneering ‘Wine Society’ has since built long-term relationships with independent producers. Thirteen stores in Budapest, plus home delivery, free with orders over 10,000 forints. bortarsasag.hu

RADOVIN With four stores across Budapest including the main one on Böszörményi út, Radovin is a major player in the city’s wine trade. Long a supporter of natural and organic wines, Radovin is another vintner pushing bubbles this summer. facebook.com/radovinborkereskedes

VinoPiano

Artizán

VINOPIANO The wine bar and boutique attached to Élesztőház in a former industrial courtyard in District IX, VinoPiano takes the same approach as its beer-focused housemates, showcasing smaller, artisanal wineries. District IX. Tűzoltó utca 22. facebook.com/VinoPiano.hu

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A SPIRIT FOR EVERY OCCASION At the crack of dawn or to change gears on a big night out, to celebrate a birth or bid a final farewell at a wake, pálinka is integral to Hungarian drinking culture. Produced from plums, apricots, even elderflowers, this revered spirit enhances or salves every social occasion and state of mind. Fired with scorching alcohol content, it is also distilled at local households and brought out for honoured guests. Every bar in Hungary will also stock Unicum, its bottle shaped like a cartoon bomb, as iconic as its publicity posters often displayed. A herbal concoction invented by Dr József Zwack as a stomach remedy in 1790, this intoxicating black gold created the wealth of the Zwack family who have kept its formula secret, even when forced into exile in 1948. A tour of their Budapest distillery reveals how thirsty Soviet soldiers could only lay their hands on a fake version of the production techniques, revived after Zwack’s homecoming in 1988.

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D I N I N G & DGRAI SNZKTI N RÓ G

First Craft Beer

5 PURVEYORS OF CRAFT BEER AND PRIME SPIRITS BEERSELECTION Some 600 varieties of bottled and canned beer line this store. To help with your selection, they create wheat-, craft- and cherry-beer packages, among others. Deliveries within 1-3 working days. District VIII. József körút 22-24. beerselection.hu BOTTLE LIFE If you’re looking for sought-after spirits, seek no longer – Bottle Life can deliver Knut Hansen gin, 1 Csepp Hungarian pálinka brandy from Sopron and super-premium Beluga vodka from Siberia, among hundreds of other brands. bottlelife.hu MONYO Served on its prominent terrace on downtown Kálvin tér, the MONYO Tap House offers six beers on tap and a range of bottled varieties by small-batch producers, including its own brand locally brewed in deepest Kőbánya. IX. Kálvin tér 7. facebook.com/monyotaphouse

FIRST CRAFT BEER Founded by the Kurucz brothers in 2010, FIRST started out at festivals and now has a taproom on Váci út, a BBQ restaurant on Dob utca and, open for summer, a bar on downtown Madách tér – plus, of course, a webshop. District VII. Madách Imre út 3. firstcraftbeer.com

Koktélbolt

MONYO

KOKTÉLBOLT When cocktails are called for, the drinks and accessories at the Koktélbolt online store should be all that you need. Beyond the basic spirits, there’s cognacs, mezcals and absinthes, plus shakers, mixing glasses, bar spoons, strainers and sets. facebook.com/koktelbolt

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ART & CULTURE Culture in Budapest comes in many forms. It’s a series of exhibitions you can watch at home, an era-defining film or an artful statuette secretly placed in town that captures a certain part of the Hungarian psyche. Not to mention a mess of imaginative murals to peruse.

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A R T & GC A U SL TZ U TRÓ E

Géza Hofi

7 STRIKING STATUES OF HUNGARIAN CULTURAL GIANTS HILDA GOBBI This work by the National Theatre shows the famed Hungarian actress about to light a cigarette – she was a notorious chain smoker. On each side is an empty chair, ready for someone to sit down and listen to her stage tales. District IX. Bajor Gizi Park GÉZA HOFI On Budapest’s Broadway stands a statue honouring one of Hungary’s most famous comedians, Géza Hofi. It’s certainly an eye-catching monument – in a sort of reverse Hamlet, the figure of death holds Hofi’s head, rather than the human clutching the skull. District VI. Nagymező utca

Attila József

ATTILA JÓZSEF The title of this statue is At the Danube, the sculptor inspired by the tragic poet’s line: “I was sitting on the bottom stone of the loading dock, watching the melon rind float away”. In 2013, it was moved closer to the shore of the Danube. District V. id Antall József rakpart

EMMERICH KÁLMÁN Another revered figure on Budapest’s Broadway, Kálmán composed classic operettas, earning widespread fame in Vienna.

Born in Siófok, he studed at the Royal Academy with Bartók and Kodály.

District VI. Nagymező utca FRIGYES KARINTHY This abstract work refers to one of the writer’s most famous pieces, Journey Around my Skull. The statue depicts two Karinthys, a human figure with his hands in his pockets, and his own bust hovering above his head. District XI. Irinyi József utca/Karinthy Frigyes út GYULA KRÚDY The statue honouring this famous writer sits outside the house where he was born. It depicts his alter ego, Szindbád – or rather, actor Zoltán Latinovits playing the character in its film adaptation. Alongside, an empty seat beckons passers-by. District III. Fő tér MIKLÓS RADNÓTI In 1944, poet Miklós Radnóti was forcibly marched from Bor in Serbia and shot dead, exhausted, in Szentkirályszabadja, Hungary, more than 600km away. This statue, outside the theatre that takes his name, captures him in the midst of his fatal ordeal. District VI. Nagymező utca

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Franz Liszt Music Academy

5 BUDAPEST EXHIBITIONS TO ENJOY ANYWHERE IN THE WORLD 50 YEARS OF THE RED METRO Line 2 is one of the main arteries of Budapest. The Transport Museum celebrates its 50th anniversary with this online resource featuring an incredible photo collection of the planning, building and unveiling of the red metro. virtualiskiallitas.kozlekedesimuzeum.hu FRANZ LISZT MUSIC ACADEMY Google Arts & Culture has three online exhibitions focusing on the Franz Liszt Music Academy, taking viewers through a slideshow of images highlighting its architectural wonders and interior decoration. artsandculture.google.com/partner/liszt-academy

MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS This venerable institution, its physical building recently renovated, can be explored online. Exhibitions feature oil paintings, wood engravings and masterpieces of the Baroque and Renaissance eras, among others. artsandculture.google.com/partner/museum-of-fine-artsbudapest

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MUSEUM OF HUNGARIAN AGRICULTURE A range of curious treasures awaits at the Agricultural Museum, physically located in Vajdahunyad Castle in the City Park. Discover the history of farming in the Carpathian Basin as far back as the Stone Age. mezogazdasagimuzeum.hu/muzeum/virtualis-tura 50 Years Of The Red Metro

Műcsarnok – Kunsthalle

MŰCSARNOK – KUNSTHALLE More than 60 exhibitions are currently accessible online, including paintings, art installations and photographs.

Zoom through the halls of the museum virtually by clicking on the arrows. mucsarnok.hu/kunsthalle/virtual_tour.php

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HUNGARIAN PHOTOGRAPHY Having nurtured remarkable artists such as Robert Capa, André Kertész and the brilliant Brassaï, Hungary can be justifiably proud of its world-renowned photographic heritage. All three figures converged on Paris in the 1920s, finding critical success and acceptance in the ever-developing world of press and artistic photography. Each then earned his legendary reputation abroad.

To this day, many are unaware that war photographer Capa, born in Budapest as Endre Friedmann, was Hungarian. Today, the Capa Center at Nagymező utca 8 honours his memory. Nearby at No.20, the Mai Manó Ház also hosts regular shows, in a house part-converted into a studio in the 1880s by a photographer to the Habsburg Court.

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Sissy

5 MARVELLOUS MURALS DEPICTING HUNGARIAN HISTORY 6:3 This massive mural depicts the Match of the Century, the famous victory by Hungary’s football team starring Ferenc Puskás over England in 1953, a ray of light in those dark days. District VII. Rumbach Sebestyén utca 6-10 ANGEL OF BUDAPEST This colourful wall commemorates the ‘Angel of Budapest’, the Spanish diplomat Ángel Sanz Briz, who saved thousands of Hungarian Jews from war-time deportation. District VII. Dob utca 4 MAN OF THE YEAR The cover of Time magazine from 1956, when it named this Hungarian Freedom Fighter as ‘Man of the Year’, is recreated on a wall, honouring the heroes of the anti-Soviet uprising. District VII. Wesselényi utca 40 6:3

SISSY This dainty purple mural and portrait of Hungary’s favourite Habsburg, Empress Elisabeth, welcomes visitors to Elizabeth Town, the district named after the revered royal. District VII. Rumbach Sebestyén utca 11-13

Rubik’s Cube

RUBIK’S CUBE Quoting Hungarian inventor Ernő Rubik (“There is always a solution – and not just one”), this mural explains that the code for his Cube can be cracked in 20 turns. District VII. Rumbach Sebestyén utca 5

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New York Café key

ART & CULTUR E

REZSŐ SERESS Part of Kolodko’s collaboration with the District VII Council on figures whose backstory relates to local cultural history.

Here, at the Kispipa restaurant where he played, pianist Rezső Seress launches into the song he famously composed, Gloomy Sunday.

District VII. Akácfa utca 38 LISA SIMPSON A rare example of Kolodko delving into Western culture for subject matter, this figure depicts cartoon clever clogs Lisa Simpson all tied up and looking somewhat anxious without her trademark saxophone. There’s not even a ransom note. District V. Jászai Mari tér SÜSÜ Back on familiar ground with revered characters from Hungarian children’s TV, Kolodko here not only portrays Süsü the misunderstood dragon but the actor who provided his voice, Gyula Bodrogi, in the animated series 40 years ago. District V. Szabadság tér HANNAH SZENES Kolodko is not all cartoon figures and frivolity – here he depicts secret agent Hannah Szenes, a poet who took part in covert anti-Nazi activities. Arrested in possession of a British military transmitter, she was executed in November 1944. District VII. Rózsa utca 36

COLUMBO’S MEERKAT While sculptor Mihail Kolodko had left figures around Budapest before, this one in 2018 caused the biggest stir.

A gun-toting meerkat lies by a statue of Columbo, a circle chalked around its lifeless body. Can the detective solve the crime?

District V. Falk Miksa utca

Columbo’s meerkat

7 CUTE KOLODKO STATUETTES TO SPOT AROUND TOWN

MAKK ELEK Another animal figure, the clumsy jack-of-no-trades goat, Mekk Elek, appeared on Széll Kálmán tér, perhaps a humorous criticism of the quality of craftsmanship then going into the renovation of this busy Buda square. District II. Széll Kálmán tér NEW YORK CAFÉ KEY An old-school diver wielding a recently salvaged key links with the legend that famed playwright Ferenc Molnár threw it into the Danube so that the illustrious New York Café next door would never close it doors. District VII. Dohány/Osvát utca 76

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INTERVIEW

ING T EA RS V Z TI ERW Ó

Mark Rimm e

king the In a treasure-laden flat overloo time on an his nds Danube, Mark Rimmell spe kes crowns. extraordinary hobby: he ma

ll

WLB: How did it all start? movie and just fell in love MR: I came here to work on a t the atmosphere... My assistan with Budapest, the buildings, r. rive the incredible flat over on the film helped find me this with 160kg of fabrics and a Indi from k I had just come bac s that the Maharaja’s wives beads, including old sari end jewellery, selling it at wore in Jaipur. I started making e asked me to make a crown Gozsdu Udvar. One day someon ised this was something I for a model competition. I real Crown Maker of Budapest! loved doing, so I became the ideas?

WLB: Where do you get your the street, I might see a shape n dow king MR: Anywhere. Wal that I have. One crown was or get an idea from something t have 20 by now. inspired by a cake mould. I mus WLB: Can you wear them? for a photo. And I say, by MR: Yes, people often come over silly with it. This is a serious all means, but please don’t look person would wear. crown, a crown an important

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Sweet Anna (© NFI Film Archive)

ART & CULTUR E

THE ROUND-UP This film by Miklós Jancsó attracted global acclaim when premiered at Cannes in 1966. Szegénylegények is set in a prison camp after the failed uprising of 1848. Shot in black and white, it depicts deceit among gang members, amid the endless horizons of the Great Plain. filmarchiv.hu SOMEWHERE IN EUROPE Hungary’s answer to the Italian neorealist dramas in the aftermath of World War II, Géza von Radványi’s Valahol Európában depicts a group of starving Hungarian orphans attempting to eke out a living amid the ruins. filmarchiv.hu SWEET ANNA This Zoltán Fábri adaptation of the Kosztolányi novel set in Budapest immediately after World War I stars the legendary Mari Törőcsik as the lead in one of the most memorable of her 120-plus films, entered for Cannes in 1959. filmarchiv.hu

7 CLASSIC HUNGARIAN FILMS TO ENJOY IN ENGLISH

FOOTBALL OF THE GOOD OLD DAYS The great Dezső Garas stars as the football-obsessed Ede Minarik (‘We need a team!’) in this charming tale set in 1924, pulling every trick in the book to get his beloved Csabagyöngye into the first division. As they say, it’s the hope that kills you. filmarchiv.hu THE MAN OF GOLD Several film adaptations have been made of Mór Jokai’s novel Az Aranyember, set on the Danube between the Habsburg and Ottoman empires. Alexander Korda made this one in 1918 but locals equally revere the 1962 version, with a teenage Ilona Béres as lead actress. filmarchiv.hu 80

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We Never Die (© NFI Film Archive)

THE BOYS OF PAUL STREET Zoltán Fábri directed this 1969 screen rendering of the Ferenc Molnár classic, with UK actor Anthony Kemp as lead. His compatriots were also chosen from an acting school in London and their voices dubbed. Most was filmed around Visegrádi utca in District XIII. filmarchiv.hu

WE NEVER DIE First-time director Róbert Koltai also stars in Sose halunk meg, a big hit in the early 1990s. Its nostalgia for a lost Hungary of lively racetracks and lovable rogues struck a chord with audiences still familiar with the era – Koltai based the main character on his own uncle. filmarchiv.hu

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Apád nem volt üveges!

ART & CULTUR E

MA ÖRÖMMEL, HOLNAP KÖRÖMMEL In English, we advocate you clean as you go in the kitchen. The Hungarians equally warn against sloth by saying, “Today with joy, tomorrow with fingernails!” Or, as Benjamin Franklin once said, “Don’t put off until tomorrow what you can do today!”

MIÉRT ITATOD AZ EGEREKET? This is a cute way in which Hungarians ask – especially to children – why are you crying? Why are you giving the mice drinks from your tears?

7 CRAFTY HUNGARIAN IDIOMS TO IMPRESS YOUR FRIENDS APÁD NEM VOLT ÜVEGES! “Your dad wasn’t a glazier!” You might hear this shouted at you when standing in a crowded area. The person is telling you in no short order that you’re blocking their view!

Nem kolbászból van a kerítés

NEM KOLBÁSZBÓL VAN A KERÍTÉS If your fence (kérités) is not made of sausage (kolbász), this means that things are not quite as good as you thought they might have been.

ESŐ UTÁN KÖPÖNYEG “A raincoat after it’s been raining.” This phrase expresses that a solution or advice has come too late. Once the shower is lifted, what good is a raincoat? Stable doors and bolting horses are evoked in English for a similar situation.

EZ NEM AZ ÉN ASZTALOM When someone asks you to speak about a subject you’re no expert on, there’s one quick way to avoid responsibility: “Sorry, but this is not my table!”.

JOBB FÉLNI, MINT MEGIJEDNI This is the Hungarian equivalent of the English proverb, better safe than sorry. It urges the listener to be cautious in whatever endeavour they’re embarking upon.

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ACTIVE & HEALTHY Many of its main roads now lined with new cycle lanes and its most popular park of Vรกrosliget sprouting sports courts, recent European Capital of Sport Budapest offers plenty for the active visitor. A spa capital too, the city is gradually reopening its famed baths and lidos.

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Space-themed playground

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SPACE-THEMED PLAYGROUND Children will have a stellar time at this recently opened space-themed playground on Csepel island, with an astronaut slide, bouncing trampoline craters and more. Adults can take advantage of the running track, outdoor gym facilities and free WiFi. District XXI. Tejút utca English Time With Denae Néni

5 ENGLISH-FRIENDLY ACTIVITIES FOR THE WHOLE FAMILY TO ENJOY

LITTLE SWIMMERS As and when quarantine restrictions are fully lifted, then this group based in District XIII will be restarting its baby and toddler swimming courses in English, for kids aged between four months and three years. The group also organises costume parties with games in English. facebook.com/Little-Swimmers-in-Budapest-146301452117680

ARTHUR MURRAY DANCE STUDIO One of the world’s most popular dance schools, the Arthur Murray Studio in Budapest is leading online tuition in English for all ages. Videos stream live on Facebook. Classes run on weekdays, children’s on Tuesdays and Thursdays. facebook.com/ arthurmurraybudapest DANCE CRAZE ACADEMY Children aged between two and 13 are invited to participate in online dance, singing and drama lessons offered by Dance Craze Budapest, designed to keep the little ones active, happy and healthy during the quarantine restrictions. dca.hu ENGLISH TIME WITH DENAE NÉNI Budapest-based preschool teacher Denae McGaha live streams book readings and sing-along dances for children at home, making learning fun and engaging. facebook.com/ englishtimewithdenae 86

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5 BRILLIANT CYCLE ROUTES AROUND BUDAPEST GRAND BOULEVARD Created during the shutdown, the cycle lanes along Budapest’s busiest artery follow the one of the world’s busiest tram lines. Between Nyugati station and Corvin-negyed, cyclists can safely turn in both directions, giving access to key points in Pest. In place until September. Districts VI-VIII BARTÓK BÉLA ÚT The self-styled Bártok Béla Boulevard, aka BBB, is Buda’s trendiest avenue, lined with buzzing café terraces and galleries.

It steeps gently up from Liberty Bridge to south Buda, via the pretty park around Feneketlen-tó, the Bottomless Lake. District XI NORTH BUDA/ÓBUDA By the end of summer, the main cycle route to Szentendre will be complete. Until then, the ride north by the Danube, keeping Margaret Island, Óbuda Island and Szentendre Island alongside, leads some 15km of the way in convivial fashion. Districts II-III

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RÁKOS-PATAK Popular with local cycle clubs, this route mainly follows Rákos stream between the Danube by the Duna Aréna pool in Angyalföld, across Zugló and a large expanse of north Pest to Rákosfalva and Mátyásföld, parallel with Jászberényi út. Districts X, XIII, XIV SOUTH PEST/CSEPEL This Danube-hugging route runs from the Pest side of Elizabeth Bridge to Liberty Bridge, past Bálna Budapest, the verdant Nehru bank, Petőfi Bridge and the MÜPA arts centre. From there, you can hop over to Csepel island and its near-empty streets. Districts V, IX, XXI

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HOW TO SPA Budapest inherited its spa culture from the Ottomans, whose religious need to ablute was facilitated by an abundant supply of H2O. Around a motherlode of thermal water on the Buda side, the Turks built the Rudas, Király and Lukács baths in the 1500s and 1600s. Rebuilding has been kind, the Rudas retaining its architectural heritage, albeit now topped by a panoramic jacuzzi. Currently in Budapest, lidos are open, with many bathers looking forward to the all-clear to soak away the day in pools of varying temperatures within historic walls. Along with specific instructions on social distancing in queues, general guidelines remain. Swimming costumes are obligatory, a towel useful and flip-flops handy. Find an empty locker for your clothes and close it with the face of the plastic watch provided as you pay – couples may prefer a more intimate kabin.

As in all Ottoman culture, respect is paramount – use your towel to sit on and leave boisterous behaviour for Balaton.

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Városliget

7 GREAT GREEN GETAWAYS WITHIN BUDAPEST ELTE BOTANICAL GARDENS These gardens date back to the 1700s and were once home to 12,000 plants. Reopened to the public as quarantine was lifting, they provide a lovely retreat, the nursery stocking plants otherwise unavailable elsewhere in town. District VIII. Illés utca 25. fuveszkert.org FENEKETLEN LAKE Buda’s Bottomless Lake provides not only leafy relaxation, picnics and feeding the ducks, but active recreation, too, tennis, jogging and exercise on the street workout equipment. Lakeside cafés offer spritzers and light snacks. District XI. Kosztolányi Dezső tér

KEREPESI CEMETERY Budapest’s most prestigious cemetery lies close to Keleti station. Here you can stroll along the tree-lined avenues and admire the incredible mausoleums where legendary Hungarians sleep their eternal sleep. District VIII. Fiumei út 16-18. facebook.com/ fiumeiutisirkert ELTE Botanical Gardens

JAPANESE GARDEN Reopened for public visits, this authentic attraction earned the praise of the Emperor’s son when he visited here on honeymoon in 1931. A teahouse, lake and mandarin ducks all feature, as well as traditional ornamentation. District XIV. Mogyoródi út 56-60. vmszki.hu

MARGARET ISLAND In the middle of the Danube, Margaret Island is the green heart of Budapest. Its huge recreational space contains a petting zoo, a Japanese garden and the ruins of the convent where St Margaret died in 1270. Free of cars, it’s ideal for joggers and cyclists. District XIII NATIONAL MUSEUM GARDENS After a major revamp, the gardens at the National Museum reopened in 2019, the perfect spot to bask in the sun amid urban greenery. Fountains, water features and sweeping paths also surround the stately museum steeped in Hungarian history.

District VIII. Múzeum körút VÁROSLIGET Just behind Heroes’ Square, the City Park is undergoing significant changes, the Liget Project, bringing in a new dog park, sports courts and cultural attractions – but remains an expansive green space with a boating lake by Vajdahunyad Castle. District XIV

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Kamaraerdő

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ÖRDÖG-OROM Devil’s Ridge is a prominent rock formation over 300 metres high, accessed by a steep slope, equipped in places with banisters.

The climb is worth it for the views of Buda’s hills and villas, and a nature trail was installed in 2016. Near the terminus of tram 59. District XII

5 HEALTHY HIKING OPTIONS CLOSE TO BUDAPEST

KAMARAERDŐ Stretching over 200 hectares, this is one of the largest forests in Budapest, with badgers, foxes and deer among the wildlife.

As well as a nature course, hiking trails cross the forest, meeting at Nagyrét meadow. All is accessible from the terminus of tram 41. District XI

Róka Hill Quarry

FERENC HILL Behind luxury villas lies this forest-covered retreat, an ideal outdoor choice for families, with clear study trails. The hill can be roamed in about 30 minutes, and has a playground and barbecue area. Accessed by bus 29 from Kolosy tér to Csalit utca. District II

RÓKA HILL QUARRY This was the most extensive limestone mine in Budapest in the 1940s. Nowadays, it attracts day-trippers, rock climbers and birds of prey who ascend to gaze upon the majestic panorama of the city. Reached by HÉV train to Csillaghegy. Üröm, Rókahegyi út

LAKE NAPLÁS Within each reach of the HÉV train stop of pretty Cinkota, these wetlands attract hikers and anglers. The meadows along Szilas Creek and Cinkota Park Forest are home to 150 types of birds, with protected plants and even swamp turtles on one side of the water.

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SHOPS & MARKETS You can discover all kinds of treasures at the boutiques, stores and markets of Budapest, from cutting-edge contemporary fashion to retro relics at distant flea markets.

Small-batch producers bring organic and artisanal merchandise from the countryside, while many outlets still operate a swift home-delivery and online service.

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Downtown Market

SHOPS & MARKETS

MOM BIOPIAC Organic certification is not easy to obtain, so this bio market stands out. Goods here are a little more expensive than at other markets, but you’re assured that everything on offer comes from a controlled farm. District XII. Csörsz utca 18. facebook.com/mombiopiac PANCS GASZTROPLACC Reopened in late May, this popular market features a community table where locally sourced ingredients are thrown together and cooked for those gathered. The webshop still offers 600 products. District IX. Tűzoltó utca 22. facebook.com/ gasztroplacc RÓMAI PART This Saturday-morning market in Óbuda is friendly and family-oriented, shoppers and vendors on first-name terms, with a kids’ playground nearby. Look out for stalls of berries, goats’ cheeses, jams and eggs. District III. Nánási út 47-49. facebook.com/RomaipartiPiac VEGAN GARDEN An indoor market in the Rácskert courtyard, the Vegan Garden reopened as an open-air grocery and market. You’ll find everything from herbs and houseplants, ice cream, spices, beer and all kinds of plant-based products. District VII. Dob utca 40. facebook.com/ vegangardenbp

CZAKO PIACZ At the top of the Tabán district, this weekend market sells vegetables and fruit, cheeses, meats, cold-pressed oils, flowers, jams, honey and more. Some vendors only operate on one of the days, so check Facebook first. District I. Czakó utca 15. facebook.com/ czakotermelopiacz DOWNTOWN MARKET Bringing the countryside into the heart of town, this revamped market hall first opened in 1891 purveys Hungarian specialities such as grey-cattle beef and mangalica pork. Kiosks sell schnitzels, sausages and more. District V. Hold utca 13. belvarosipiac.hu

Pancs Gasztroplacc

7 MARVELLOUS MARKETS FOR HEALTHY LOCAL PRODUCE

HUNYADI TÉR MARKET Recently revamped, this is one of the smallest market halls in town, near Oktogon and the Grand Boulevard. Be sure to taste and/or take home some of honey, bacon and sausages sold by farmers, and the fine artisanal cheeses at Boci. District VI. Hunyadi tér 4 98

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Pékműhely

SHOPS & MARKETS

JM6 SÜTIZŐ Run by pastry chef and baker Kata and Norbi, JM6 is a brunch venue and bakery near Margaret Bridge, with fresh sourdough breads made twice a day. Confectionery includes one-off treats such as zserbó swirls. District XIII. Jászai Mari tér 6. facebook.com/jm6bakery KISPEREC Apart from ten types of bread a day, traditional Kisperec serves classic Hungarian pastries, cocoa swirls, sweet cottage-cheese puffs and bear claws. Everything is prepared locally, from the dough to the fillings. District IX. Bakats tér 2. facebook.com/Kisperec KISKOVÁSZ PÉKSÉG Péter Sábli swapped ballet at the Opera for a bakery on nearby Nagymező utca. Breads are prepared the same way as in his grandmother’s day, using nothing but flour, salt, water and leaven, the result richly textured and substantial. District VI. Nagymező utca 36 PÉKMŰHELY Rustic Pékműhely is a main outlet in town for sourdough bread, a cottage industry set up by József Vajda. Józsi’s wife Kata talks you through the three varieties on offer that day, perhaps involving sun-dried tomatoes, perhaps prunes. District I. Batthyány utca 24. pekmuhely.hu

ARÁN BAKERY This couple learned their trade in Dublin – arán is Irish for ‘bread’. Using their own recipe of sourdough they christened Paddy, the couple create wholewheat and multi-seed rye versions, along with pastries and sandwiches. District VII. Wesselényi utca 23. aranbakery.hu

Kisperec

7 BRILLIANT BAKERIES FOR FINE BREADS AND PASTRIES

ARTIZÁN BUDAPEST Traditional, homemade sourdough breads come in all varieties from wholegrain to daily made focaccias and ciabattas.

Take them home while they are warm or enjoy a sandwich and a fresh juice on the lovely terrace. District V. Hold utca 3. artizan.hu HÁROM TARKA MACSKA Made on-site by a French baker, the breads at the Three Tortoiseshell Cats include five types of sourdough, glutenfree loaves and a superb fig-and-apricot variety with whole fruit.

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SEARCHING FOR RETRO TREASURE Browsing is an urban sport in Budapest. Rare art, secondhand books, vintage vinyl and antique furniture are stocked at specific venues, or found all together at Ecseri, the mother of all flea markets. Operating all week but busiest on Saturdays, Ecseri is down in District XIX at Nagykőrösi út 156 (take bus 54 or 55 from Boráros tér and alight at Naszód utca), a sprawling wonderland of junk. Don’t be afraid to haggle, particularly at packing-up time. If it’s a specific piece you’re after, take an expert. If Communist tat, take a big bag. If you’re looking for old books in English, original pre-war posters or postcards from Socialist-era holiday resorts, head to the antiquarian stores along Múzeum körút opposite the National Museum. For finer antiques, paintings and auctions, Falk Miksa utca is lined with galleries and art dealers. Vinyl requires a more focused search but Lemezkuckó at Király utca 67 and Wave at Révay köz 1 are good places to start.

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Café Analóg

SHOPS & MARKETS

Buborék

SHOPS & MARKETS

PRINTA Run by the ever-inventive Zita Majoros, this studio, café, gallery and design store stocks eco-friendly clothes and accessories. Note the Printa’s Pest collection of T-shirts and tops showing local street maps and manhole covers. District VII. Rumbach Sebestyén utca 10. printa.hu

5 BOUTIQUES FOR WEIRD AND WONDERFUL FINDS

CAFÉ ANALÓG ‘Leave the digital grind behind’ says the slogan on the customised bag in this shop/café dedicated to Lomography – the use of a quirky, Soviet Lomo camera – and analogue photography. Film, processing, gear, they’re all here. District VII. Kazinczy utca 35. shop. cafeanalog.hu

Rock In’Box

BUBORÉK ‘Bubble’ stocks the cool creations of Hungarian and international designers – jewellery, bags, sundry accessories, notebooks, innovative Budapest-themed artefacts and curious knick-knacks.

District V. Kecskeméti utca 5. buborekbolt.hu

ROCK IN’BOX Despite the discordant name, Rock In’Box is the most charming of the city’s vinyl stores. Rows of rockabilly and doowop records line the shop, with Gomułka-era Polish LPs and boxed concertinas of singles on Czechoslovak Supraphon at the back.

District VI. Paulay Ede utca 8

NANOHA Nanushka creates top fashion, Noha Studios, traditional pottery. Together they make the gorgeous vases, bowls and cups sold at the Nanushka store. A Noha-run workshop in rural Terény also supplies the ceramic buttons for Nanushka’s garments. District V. Bécsi utca 3. nanushka.com 104

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Szputnyik Shop

SHOPS & MARKETS

LOVEBUGVINTAGE Much of this diverse selection – retro adidas hoodies, vintage jeans, band T-shirts, Doc Martens and summer Birkenstock sandals – has been sourced from flea markets and vintage fairs, handpicked by an eagle eye. District II. Margit körút 62. facebook.com/ lovebugvintage RETROCK This prominent and spacious store just off focal Deák tér specialises in classic labels – Armani, Hugo Boss, Moschino – in perfect or near perfect condition. Ethno items also feature. District VI. Anker köz 2-4. retrock.com SZPUTNYIK SHOP Long-established Szputnyik has two outlets stocked with vintage mens- and womenswear: skirts, shirts, blouses and seasonappropriate shoes, including Doc Martens, Converse and Vans. District VI. Király utca 22/District VII. Dohány utca 20. szputnyikshop.hu TYPO SHOWROOM A carefully curated assortment of men and women’s second-hand clothing awaits here, from original adidas sportswear to old promo outfits from the Olympics, even Versace, Burberry and Marimekko.

District VIII. Krúdy Gyula utca 9. facebook.com/typoshowroom

GET A LIFE, SUSAN! Kyrgyz expat Zarina Isambaeva has closed her outlet of funky vintage clothes and accessories on Eötvös utca but will run a webshop. Zarina – Susan was just a funny name – intends to keep the focus on lesser-known brands. facebook.com/getalifesusan

Typo Showroom

7 OUTSTANDING OUTLETS FOR RETRO AND VINTAGE FASHION

HAGOR On the Grand Boulevard, Hagor’s window display catches the eye.

The shop specialises in natural materials – linen, cotton and canvas in summer, wool sweaters in winter. The family here also takes in clothing and upcycles. District VI. Teréz körút 7. hagorbolt.hu KONFEKCIÓ There’s something for everyone at Kata Oltai’s boutique: glamour, grunge, casual home-wear and discontinued Hungarian lines.

The shop currently opens three times a week, but items can be browsed on Instagram. District VIII. Víg utca 20. facebook.com/konfekcio 106

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INTERVIEW

INTERVIEW

IsamZarina baev a

m Kyrgyzstan Zarina Isambaeva arrived fro ning an outlet with the life-long dream of ope a hand-curated like Get a life, Susan!, selling sustainable selection of vintage, retro and clothes and crafts. we find in your webshop?

WLB: What kind of things can for something basic, it’s ZI: This isn’t a place to browse , bright, weird, unusual, cool a place to find something vintage clothes, I focus the or a fun gift for a friend. With Budapest. I hand-pick on brands not represented in from only the best. g everything so you’re choosin s by local artists, item And I’m always featuring and feminism. ality equ to support sustainability, during the shutdown?

WLB: How did things change Instagram and Depop, ugh ZI: I shifted to selling thro ple can pick them up. peo or s and I either ship the item l and small-scale loca I’m still featuring works from about opening king thin European artists, and I’m les down. sett ng ythi a new location when ever WLB: And who is Susan? time. The truth is, ZI: People ask me that all the e!

I just wanted a funny nam

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Nanushka

SHOPS & MARKETS

ÁERON

SHOPS & MARKETS

NUBU Creating timeless garments and accessories with urban style in mind, Judit Garam and Adél Kovács harmonise a sophisticated design with unique cuts, comfort and function. Branches at the MOM Park and Allee malls along with the flagship store. District VI. Andrássy út 15. nubu.hu

5 FANTASTIC HUNGARIAN FASHION DESIGNERS NUBU

ÁERON Born into a textile dynasty, Hungarian designer Eszter Áron makes personal pieces that evoke effortless elegance by combining superb quality and innovative craftsmanship. Currently trading from her webshop and outlets in Paris, Berlin and NYC. aeron.com

TOMCSANYI Dóri Tomcsányi combines E-bloc retro chic with edgy minimalism to create iconic womenswear that echoes bygone days.

Locally produced, with materials sourced from Italy. District VI. Paulay Ede utca 18. tomcsanyi.eu

JE SUIS BELLE Founded by Dalma Dévényi and Tibor Kiss, JSB is one of the leading fashion brands in Hungary, innovative techniques bringing in signature looks season after season. District VI. Paulay Ede utca 67. jesuisbelle.hu NANUSHKA A graduate of the London College of Fashion, Sandra Sándor has achieved global success with her playful, functional brand, showcased at her flagship concept store and café in town. District V. Bécsi utca 3. nanushka.com 110

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SHOPS & MARKETS

INQ

SHOPS & MARKETS

INQ Elegant yet relaxed is the overarching theme of INQ, the in-house brand at wonderLAB, with high-waisted shorts, long flowing cardigans, nostalgic full-bodied skirts and stylish wool coats that have all but jumped off the pages of Vogue. inqconcept.com NEBOUXII Named after and inspired by the blue-footed booby bird, Nebouxii creates cool designs for men’s and women’s feet – abstract foxes, scenes from Lake Balaton and the hills of Badacsony, even melting ice cream, to name but a few. nebouxii.hu

5 PHENOMENAL HUNGARIAN DESIGNERS FOUND AT WONDERLAB

Fruzsi Fekete

SIXFEET High-design dogwear? Yup, pets and owners – hence Sixfeet – can find stylish leashes, collars and other accessories, elegantly crafted at a small Budapest workshop. They even have seasonal collections. facebook.com/sixfeetdesign

WONDERLAB Some 30 Hungarian creatives gather at this concept store and designer community under the motto, ‘Together it’s easier’. Customers can meet designers and choose from the clothes, accessories and home décor on offer. District V. Veres Pálné utca 3. wonderlabconcept.com BOBORIK Contemporary illustrated postcards and minimalist drawings, often of fashionable female figures, are the hallmark of Bogi Bokori’s graphic works, printed on 180- 220-gramme paper with non-fading premium ink. facebook.com/helloboborik FRUZSI FEKETE Each jewellery item fashioned by Fruzsi Fekete is unique, with an exquisite matte finish. Examples include silver-studded earrings in the form of rose petals, necklaces of leaves and funky abstract earrings frozen in seemingly malleable shapes. fruzsifekete.com 112

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Budapest Flower Market

SHOPS & MARKETS

RisoPlant

SHOPS & MARKETS

PLANTOMIME Phenomenal floral arrangements are paired with fun presentation styles, such as cylindrical flower bags and heart-shaped boxes. Grab&go flowers come with a handle to impress your loved one by dashing to their door in a moment of ardour, bouquet in hand. plantomime.hu

5 FABULOUS FLORISTS FOR LOVELY FLOWERS AND PLANTS

FLOWERME Twice a week, this eco-friendly team scour the flower markets at dawn to find the freshest and highest-quality blooms. These are styled by hand to showcase their natural beauty, then delivered for free by bike around town. Even the wrapping is recyclable. flowerme.hu

flowerMe

BUDAPEST FLOWER MARKET This wholesale market sells cut flowers, bouquets, houseplants, seedlings, herbs and interior decorations at discounted prices – admission is 2,000 forints. Mondays and Thursdays are busiest. District XIII. Szent László utca 21-23. viragpiac.hu

RISOPLANT Bringing nature into urban life, RisoPlant was inspired by the world of succulents and cacti, combining plants, pots and terrariums with decorative prints made on recycled or plant-based papers. They also run workshops on creating these unique items. facebook.com/ risoplant

MÁGIKUSKERT Enjoy a magical world of gardens in miniature with these self-sustaining terrariums in a range of glass vessels. Portable greenhouses in jugs, bottles, even light bulbs, they require minimal care as they exist within an enclosed ecosystem. magikuskert.hu 114

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AROUND BUDAPEST Day trips from Budapest include key destinations on the Danube Bend, Szentendre, Visegrád and Esztergom, along with Vác on the opposite bank, all reached by boat, bus, train or HÉV suburban rail. Also served by HÉV are historic Gödöllő and its Habsburg palace. West of town, Etyek is a pretty village of winemakers.

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AROUND BUDAPEST MAP

VÁC CATHEDRAL

HISTORIC VISEGRÁD

VÁC

ESZTERGOM VISEGRÁD

ESZTERGOM BASILICA SZENTENDRE SZENTENDRE GALLERIES

GÖDÖLLŐ

BUDAPEST

ETYEK ETYEK VINEYARDS

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GÖDÖLLŐ PALACE

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AROUND BUDAPEST

AROUND BUDAPEST

USEFUL INFORMATION The easiest destinations to reach from Budapest are Szentendre and Gödöllő, both served by swift and frequent HÉV suburban train.

Esztergom and Vác have regular rail connections while Visegrád and Etyek require a bus. Boats or hydrofoils run to all the riverside destinations on summer weekends, including Vác.

ARRIVAL

BY CAR: Main road 11 follows the Danube all the way from Budapest via Szentendre, Visegrád and Esztergom but gets very busy at weekends. Etyek lies between the M1 and M7 while Expressway 2 serves Vác.

BY TRAIN/BUS: For Szentendre and Gödöllő, take the HÉV train (bkk.hu) from Batthyány tér and Örs vezér tere respectively, both stations on red metro line 2. For Esztergom and Vác, it’s a mainline train (mavcsoport.hu) from Nyugati station, while Etyek requires a bus (volanbusz.hu) from Kelenföld.

BY BOAT: In summer, a weekend hydrofoil calls at Vác, Visegrád and Esztergom, while a slower boat serves Szentendre. Services leave from Vigadó tér in downtown Budapest. See mahartpassnave.hu.

BY BIKE: One of Budapest’s loveliest cycle rides is following the Danube north. Until 2020, cyclists were unable to go all the way to Szentendre, a stretch of some 20 kilometres. This situation will be resolved by the end of summer, when the last section of just under six kilometres will be completed. Rest stops and lighting will also be installed.

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Etyek

AROUND BUDAPEST

Boat trips from Budapest

AROUND BUDAPEST

GÖDÖLLŐ It’s hard to separate Gödöllő from royalty – although a post-war Communist rebuild did its best. Magnificently restored, the Royal Palace and gardens, main square of Szabadság tér and Royal Waiting Room welcome visitors, facilitated by a fast HÉV train from Budapest. facebook.com/godollovaros

5 GREAT ESCAPES FROM BUDAPEST Gödöllő

BOAT TRIPS FROM BUDAPEST Services now run on summer weekends, most notably the hydrofoil to Esztergom via Vác and Visegrád, the sightseeing boat to Szentendre and the musical evening jaunts on the Danube. District V. Vigadó tér. mahartpassnave.hu

RÁCKEVE Centrepieced by a Baroque palace built for Eugene of Savoy, who took over Csepel island after helping rid the region of the Turks, Ráckeve has a patchwork Serb, Hungarian and German heritage. It’s an easy HÉV train ride away from Közvágóhíd. facebook.com/rackeve

DUNA-IPOLY NATIONAL PARK Stretching over bucolic Pilis and the beautiful Börzsöny hills, even reaching as far as the cave sytem below Buda Castle, this sprawling expanse takes in 33 nature reserves and eight protected areas. Rare flora and fauna lie amid the diverse landscapes. dunaipoly.hu ETYEK There’s more to Etyek than wine – although most visit this bucolic village 25km west of Budapest for its vineyards and seasonal picnics. You can also tour the Korda film studios, sample craft beer and try succulent homemade ham. facebook.com/etyek360 122

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Kacsakő Bisztró

AROUND BUDAPEST

Lupa Beach

AROUND BUDAPEST

SZIGETSPICC At the northern tip of Szentendre island by Kisoroszi, this child-friendly stretch of beach attracts campers, canoeists and carnivores, barbecues and a single bar providing sustenance.

Kisoroszi, Szigetcsúcs

7 WONDERFUL WATERSIDE SPOTS

VERŐCEI STRAND With its grassy bank, volleyball court, cabin rental and buffets, the beach at Verőce provides the perfect family getaway, free admission and shaded spots another plus. Verőce, off Árpád út

KACSAKŐ BISZTRÓ Lapped by the Danube, this bucolic getaway close to the bustle of Szentendre offers barbecued dishes, deckchairs on a sandy shore, serve-yourself ice cream and live acts. Szentendre, Duna korzó 21. facebook.com/KacsakoBisztro

NAGYMAROSI STRAND Clean water and a long beach have made this a popular riverfront spot for generations. It offers grilled fish and a playground, along with a magnificent view of Visegrád. Nagymaros, Hunyadi sétány PILISMARÓTI ÖBÖL This large bay at Pilismarót by the Danube lends itself to relaxation. Swimmers and fishermen enjoy the clean waters, while camping families should be able to set up barbecues alongside.

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Zebegény Embankment

LUPA BEACH Just before Szentendre, this successful resort-like operation has been built around a former pit lake. Beach sports and outlets abound, with a quality wakeboard centre alongside. Look out for sunset prices after 4pm. Budakalász, Tó utca. lupabeach.com

ZEBEGÉNY EMBANKMENT There’s not only hiking to be had in Zebegény on the north bank of the Danube, but riverside relaxation open to everyone, with showers, toilets, free sun loungers and canoes that you can rent out. Zebegény, Duna-part

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7 GREAT REASONS TO VISIT SZENTENDRE BELGRADE CATHEDRAL Serbs fleeing the Turks from the late 1600s onwards settled in Szentendre, building beautiful Orthodox churches such as focal Belgrade Cathedral, with its glittering icons.

Alkotmány utca CORNER ÉTTEREM Authentic Serbian meats grilled outdoors in summer are served to hungry diners around a terrace that fills half of pretty, cobbled Lázár cár tér, with a full view over the Danube.

Duna-korzó 4. facebook.com/corner.szerb.etterem CZÓBEL MUSEUM This refurbished space is dedicated to Béla Czóbel, whose influential Post-Impressionist works of the early 1900s led him to be named an honorary citizen of Szentendre. Templom tér 1. muzeumicentrum.hu/czobel-muzeum

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SZAMOS Classic confectionery Szamos dates back to the 1930s, when a Serbian apprentice from Szentendre learned the ways of marzipan from a Danish master at the famed Auguszt in Budapest.

His revered cakes have since been served at this elegant café and terrace. Dumtsa Jenő utca 14. szamos.hu MARGIT KOVÁCS CERAMICS MUSEUM On display here are the life’s works of this international award-winning ceramist, some 300 pieces in all, donated by the artist shortly before her death in 1977. Vastagh György utca 1. muzeumicentrum.hu/kovacs-margit-keramiamuzeum RETRO DESIGN CENTER See how locals lived 40 years ago at this unique museum, large enough to house cars, motorbikes and a whole flat filled with the furniture and kitchen appliances of the day.

Rév utca 4. facebook.com/retrodesigncenter SKANZEN Open-air Skanzen portrays the old way of life of Hungarian village and farming communities. Open until early November. Take hourly bus 878 from Szentendre station – allow 25min. Sztaravodai út. skanzen.hu

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THE MYSTERIOUS MUMMIES OF Vร C In 1994, while renovating a church in Vรกc, workers stumbled upon a secret door leading to a crypt that had been walled up for 200 years. Behind it, what they found was shocking yet amazing: 262 colourfully decorated coffins in pristine condition, containing an equal number of mummified bodies, men, women, children, craftsmen, priests and soldiers. The residents in Vรกc were buried here from the mid-18th century onwards.

As the crypt had a specific humidity, the mummies were perfectly preserved, along with the many objects buried with them, providing evidence of old burial customs and the concept of death here 200 years ago. Several personal stories were unearthed, but mystery surrounds the most intriguing find, a nun whose heart had been carved out for reasons unknown.

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7 GREAT REASONS TO VISIT VÁC HALÁSZKERT ÉTTEREM Suitably set by the Danube, this large tourist-friendly restaurant features many a Hungarian favourite on its menu, best sampled with the Danube Sailor platter for two.

Liszt Ferenc sétány 9. halaszkertetterem.hu HÉTKÁPOLNA By the main road on the southern edge of town, this church was built in the 1700s on sacred medieval ground, its structure relating to the joy and sorrow of the Virgin Mary. The water from the spring alongside is said to heal the sick. Derecske dülő

M’EAT GASTROPUB Sleek and contemporary, this welcome addition to the Vác dining scene goes big on BBQ, burgers and steak, also providing quality cocktails, live music and TV football.

Március 15 tér 22. facebook.com/meatgastropub TRIUMPHAL ARCH The only one of its kind in Hungary, this historic monument was built by French architect Isidore Canevale for the waterborne visit of Habsburg royal Maria Theresa in 1764. In the end, she decided to walk around it. Köztársaság út 65 VÁC CATHEDRAL This imposing Baroque landmark stands on the site of the original church from the 11th century. French architect Isidore Canevale created the current structure in the 1700s, along with the Triumphal Arch across town. Konstantin tér 11. vaci.szekesegyhaz.hu

Hétkápolna

VÁC MARKET Local producers lay out their wares – fresh fruit and vegetables, dairy produce, honey, eggs, smoked meats, flowers, breads and pastries – every morning in the shadow of the city’s great churches. Most Sundays, it transforms into a flea market.

Káptalan utca

MAGORA Opened in autumn 2018, the first vegan restaurant in the heart of Vác incorporates a shop, while this meat-free locale serves as a destination for healthy, lactose-free breakfasts. Március 15 tér 22. facebook.com/magoravac

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VISEGRÁD CITADEL Still under long-term reconstruction, the Citadel is a double-castle complex created by Béla IV in the 1200s, reached by a steep footpath from town signposted ‘Fellegvár’. visegrad.hu/-93

RENAISSANCE RESTAURANT This regal eatery evokes centuries past with its medieval feel and meaty menu, enticing diners with pork, beef, goose and lamb, and Danube views from the terrace. Fő utca 11. renvisegrad.hu

VISEGRÁD ROYAL PALACE Grand and ornate in medieval times, this former regal residence was a total ruin when excavations began in 1934. Since partially reconstructed, it’s an easy walk from town. visegrad.hu/-95

SOLOMON’S TOWER Integral to Visegrád’s Lower Castle, Solomon’s Tower was built in the 1200s to observe movement on the Danube.

It now houses Gothic fountains and a museum of medieval history.

Salamontorony utca. visegradmuzeum.hu

VISEGRÁD TOBOGGAN PARK Ride the Alpine coaster or the summer bobsleigh and negotiate a dozen bends while the verdant landscape of Visegrád rushes by. For over-3s only – open all year. Nagy Villám út 1. visegrad.bobozas.hu

VISEGRÁD-NAGYMAROS FERRY Running every hour, the 15-minute ferry hop between Visegrád and Nagymaros allows you to take in the full magnificence of the sweep of the Danube here. Foot passenger tickets are just under 500 forints but you can also take across your vehicle. atlantisclubkft.hu

ZUGFŐZDE PÁLINKA MUSEUM For long decades, making pálinka brandy was a secret activity. This museum presents the tools and methods used back then, and offers a sip of the country’s favourite drink. Rév utca 1. palinkamuzeumvisegrad.hu

Visegrád Citadel

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7 GREAT REASONS TO VISIT ESZTERGOM DJAMI MUSEUM Dating back four centuries, this former Turkish prayer house has been converted into a museum, where exhibitions show the history of Esztergom under Ottoman occupation.

Berényi Zsigmond utca 18. esztergomidzsami.hu

KALEIDOSZKÓP HÁZ In the shadow of the Basilica, the Kaleidoscope House is Esztergom’s leading venue for alternative art and live music.

Within a warren-like house, craft beers and panini are served in the funky bar space. Pázmány Péter utca 7. kaleidoszkophaz.hu PÁLINKA PATIKA The vast selection of Hungary’s potent fruitbased brandy is what makes this hangout a coveted destination – almost a hundred pálinka variations from nine distilleries feature.

Széchenyi tér 25. palinkapatika.com PRÍMÁS PINCE Invariably geared to tourists, given the setting in the cellar of Esztergom’s Basilica, Prímás Pince still goes for quality in its summer menu and wine selection. Szent István tér 4. primaspince.hu

ESZTERGOM CASTLE The remains of Esztergom Castle, the royal seat until the Mongol siege of 1241, were restored from the 1930s on, including the palace chapel and its exquisite frescoes.

Szent István tér 1. varmegom.hu/wp/

VEPRECH TOWER Recently reconstructed and reopened to the public with a fully working Renaissance water machine, the Veprech Tower forms part of the riverside Djami Museum. Berényi Zsigmond utca 18. esztergomidzsami.hu

Esztergom Basilica

ESZTERGOM BASILICA Hungary’s largest church is a stately 19th-century rebuild of the cathedral where the nation’s first king, Stephen I, is thought to have been crowned, on Christmas Day, 1000.

Szent István tér 1. bazilika-esztergom.hu

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