January 2015

■ EDUCATION AND

TRAVEL & HOTELS SPECIAL SECTIONS INSIDE

A World of News and Perspective

EDUCATION ■ A Special Section of The Washington Diplomat

EUROPE

Latvia to Use EU Presidency to Spotlight Russian Aggression

hen UNESCO singles out your country’s gastronomy as a “world intangible heritage,” then food is no laughing matter. The French take eating seriously and consider it to be a sacred piece of their national identity that should be preserved and passed on to future generations — both at home and in school.

For Americans, food is also a cherished tradition, although it has a more conflicted identity in a nation struggling with rising rates of obesity.

PEOPLE OF WORLD INFLUENCE Continued on next page

French, U.S. School Officials Team Up for Healthy Eating

GERMANY

Freedom House Gets Lagon as New Chief

by Sarah Alaoui

January 2015

EDUCATION

The Washington Diplomat

Tiny Latvia inherits the rotating presidency of the European Union on Jan. 1, 2015 — a position that the outspoken Baltic republic will use to shine a light on Russia’s increasing belligerence in the region. PAGE 8

As Germany marked the 25th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall and the demise of Soviet communism, it also cast a wary eye to the east as Russia flexed its muscle in Ukraine. But despite the renewed tensions, German Ambassador Peter Wittig doesn’t foresee another Cold War on the horizon.

MIDDLE EAST

Saudi Arabia, U.S. See Islamic State Threat Differently To help repel the territorial advances of the Islamic State, the United States has sought out an old ally in Saudi Arabia.

But analysts say Washington and the conservative Sunni monarchy in Riyadh see two distinct images from the same drawing of chaos in Syria and Iraq. PAGE 6

FOOD FOR THOUGHT ■W JANUARY 2015

■ WWW.WASHDIPLOMAT.COM

■ VOLUME 22, NUMBER 1

■ January 2015

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As he starts his new job as head of Freedom House this month, former State Department official Mark P. Lagon says that despite the bleak state of affairs in the Middle East and beyond, the fight for freedom, human rights and democracy is as relevant as ever. PAGE 4

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culture

Wide-Ranging ‘Eye’ Surveys Asia Travel “The Traveler’s Eye: Scenes of Asia” captures a range of journeys at different times and places in Asia throughout the last five centuries. PAGE 30

a If the ad is correct sign and fax to: (301) 949-0065 needs changes nurse and opening her own The Washington Diplomat (301) 933-3552 insurance company, Fatiha Approved __________________________________________________________ Changes ___________________________________________________________ Bennani Bouhlal, ___________________________________________________________________ wife of the Moroccan ambassador, founded a group that digs water wells and helps underprivileged children. PAGE 31

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January 2015

CONTENTS tHE WaSHINGtON DIPLOmat

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8 Latvia

[ news ] 4

Nasta’liq Persian calligraphy

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The United States and Saudi arabia have both set their sights on the Islamic State, but the two erstwhile allies have very different visions for Syria and the larger Middle East.

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[ education ]

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DISASTER DIFFERENCES Indonesia, Haiti and the Philippines are all marking the anniversaries of wrenching disasters that offer important, and distinct, lessons for overcoming tragedy.

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COVER: Ambassador’s photo taken at the Embassy of Germany by Lawrence Ruggeri.

PERSIAN CALLIGRAPHY Modern-day Iran may give the world heartburn, but it also gave us an enduring artistic heritage in the form of nasta’liq Persian calligraphy.

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DINING Since returning from new york a few years ago, chef Fabio Trabocchi has been busy doing his part to reestablish the preeminence of Italian cuisine in the d.C. restaurant world.

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FILM REVIEWS Turkish writer-director nuri Bilge Ceylan took top honors at the 2014 Cannes Film Festival for his captivating character study “Winter Sleep.”

CINEMA LISTING

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EVENTS LISTING

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DIPLOMATIC SPOTLIGHT

POSTCARD FROM ASIA

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WORLD HOLIDAYS

“The Traveler’s Eye: Scenes of asia” is a wide-ranging survey that spans five centuries and chronicles the eclectic journeys of merchants, moguls and modern-day backpackers.

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CLASSIFIEDS

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REAL ESTATE CLASSIFIEDS

[ culture ] 30

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ADOPTION HURDLES For americans wanting to adopt a foreign child, patience and persistence are the key to navigating an increasingly unpredictable process.

VISION OF WAR Swiss photographer Jean Mohr captures the pain of war, but his compelling imagery also offers a universal picture of humanity.

AMENABLE TO LUXURY With almost 30,000 hotel rooms in Washington, hoteliers looking to differentiate themselves have their work cut out for them — but perhaps one of the best ways they can rise above the rest is through the amenities they offer.

COVER PROFILE: GERMANY

32

LONDON LESSONS

[ hotels & travel ]

as Germany marked the 25th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall and the demise of Soviet communism, it also found itself casting a wary eye toward a resurgent Russia.

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U.S. and French educators are teaming up to compare notes on cafeteria food in the fight against childhood obesity.

DIPLOMATIC SPOUSES as a nurse, nonprofit founder, insurance exec and wife of the Moroccan ambassador, Fatiha Bennani Bouhlal has always strived to help others.

FOOD FOR THOUGHT

a multilingual Maltese diplomat is working to raise the profile of the London academy of diplomacy, a venerable institution that is home to some 150 students hailing from 50 nations.

LATVIA TAKES HELM Like the other Baltics, Latvia has a tortured history with its big neighbor to the east — a past that’s rearing its head again as Russia throws its weight around in Ukraine.

MEDICAL Hyperthyroidism causes your thyroid, and your metabolism, to go into overdrive — which is a particularly dangerous condition for pregnant women.

PEOPLE OF WORLD INFLUENCE

SAUDI EXTREMISM

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Hotel amenities

Mark P. Lagon, a former State department official with a long record in the fight against human trafficking, starts a new job as president of Freedom House this month.

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January 2015

P.O. Box 1345 • Silver Spring, MD 20915-1345 • Phone: (301) 933-3552 • fax: (301) 949-0065 • e-mail: news@washdiplomat.com • web: www.washdiplomat.com Publisher/Editor-in-Chief victor Shiblie Director of Operations Fuad Shiblie Managing Editor anna Gawel News Editor Larry Luxner Contributing Writers Sarah alaoui, Martin austermuhle, Michael Coleman, Rachel Hunt, Stephanie Kanowitz, vanessa Larson, Sean Lyngaas, Ky n. nguyen, Gail Scott, Gina Shaw, Gary Tischler, Lisa Troshinsky Photographer Lawrence Ruggeri Account Managers Rod Carrasco, Chris Smith Graphic Designer Cari Henderson The Washington Diplomat is published monthly by The Washington diplomat, Inc. The newspaper is distributed free of charge at several locations throughout the Washington, d.C. area. We do offer subscriptions for home delivery. Subscription rates are $29 for 12 issues and $49 for 24 issues. call fuad Shiblie for past issues. If your organization employs many people from the international community you may qualify for free bulk delivery. to see if you qualify you must contact fuad Shiblie.

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January 2015

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PEOPLE OF WORLD INFLUENCE

Mark P. Lagon

Lagon Fights for Human Rights As New Head of Freedom House

by Michael Coleman

M

ark P. Lagon, a former State Department official and Georgetown University professor with a long and distinguished record in the battle against human trafficking, starts a new job as president of Freedom House this month.

Lagon’s leadership of the well-known democracy organization comes at a pivotal time in the history of human rights — and in the history of Freedom House.

Founded in 1941 with the support of first lady Eleanor Roosevelt, Freedom House has a legacy of defending democracy, press liberties and basic human dignity around the globe. The Washington-based, independent watchdog group — the first of its kind in the United States — now finds itself aiming to harness and streamline several separate but related missions.

Lagon has served as chair of global politics and security at Georgetown’s Master of Science in Foreign Service Program for the past four years and is a former U.S. ambassador at-large and deputy assistant secretary at the State Department, where he headed the Office to Monitor and Combat Trafficking in Persons. He was also executive director and CEO of the leading anti-human trafficking nonprofit, Polaris Project, and he is the author of numerous articles on international affairs and co-editor of the recently released book “Human Dignity and the Future of Global Institutions.” At Freedom House, Lagon will succeed David J. Kramer, who has served as president since 2010.

During a late-afternoon interview in his small Georgetown office decorated with classic blues music memorabilia, Lagon discussed his new job as president of Freedom House, as well as the challenges

“

Europe. China’s economy is still sizzling but the Asian powerhouse’s crackdown on dissent and free speech is among the most severe in the world. Meanwhile, seeds of democracy planted during the Middle East’s Arab Spring four years ago barely sprouted in the region and in many places withered, leaving behind violence and chaos.

In other words, there is still plenty of work for Freedom House to do. The organization’s website contends that nearly 2 billion people still live under “oppressive rule.” Lagon said that under his leadership, Freedom House will continue to advocate for greater political and civil liberties, support frontline activists in the fight for human rights and press for democratic change.

He said Freedom House’s most recent nation-by-nation scorecards on press freedoms and human rights — prized by governments in countries that score well and condemned by those that do not — indicate that liberty is waning around the world. Freedom in the World, Freedom House’s flagship publication, is the standard-setting comparative assessment of global political rights and civil liberties.

Published annually since 1972, the ratings and reports cover 195 countries and 14 disputed territories and are used by policymakers, the media, international corporations, civic activists and human rights defenders to monitor trends in democracy

We need to try and help civil society actors try to help themselves…. There is a great opportunity for the United States and international associations like Freedom House to help those who want to help themselves.

— Mark P. Lagon, president of Freedom House

of identifying and combating human trafficking. He pointed out that the world has made significant strides toward liberty and basic human rights in the decades since the birth of Freedom House and the end of World War II. But trouble spots certainly remain.

Russia, which established a fragile democracy after the demise of the Soviet Union, has been trending toward authoritarianism at home and is taking an increasingly aggressive posture toward Eastern

Page 4

”

and freedom worldwide.

“Freedom House reports suggest there is an ebb away from freedom; that things aren’t going in the right direction,” Lagon said, noting that historically, freedom and democracy have moved in waves, sometimes forward and sometimes backward, but that since World War II there has been more progress than regression.

“The problem that we are seeing in our work now is that the bad guys are conferring,” Lagon said. “Autocratic governments

are sharing with each other the methods to squeeze civil society and turn social media against dissenters. They are using high-technology methods of surveillance and democratic activists feel squeezed.

“Right now we have the new space race — the space for civil society is being squeezed by dictatorships that have taken the playbook of civil society and social media and reversed engineered it,” he added. “Egypt is an obvious place; Russia, Venezuela, Zimbabwe … but for every one of these disappointing cases there is a Botswana or an Indonesia. For all of its problems — and this is an immense Muslim-majority state — Indonesia is slowly but surely institutionalizing a strong democracy.”

He added:“Freedom House is also there to document the cases of successes.”

The son of Polish immigrants who grew up under the shadow of the Nazis and then the Soviets, Lagon said he is “wired to think about totalitarianism.”

“First the Nazis and then the communists had Poland under their thumb, and in my early career as a political scientist I

was focused on dictatorships and how the United States had a special opportunity to help those who were trying to overthrow them,” said Lagon, who previously served on the senior staff of the Senate Foreign Relations Committee and on Secretary of State Colin Powell’s Policy Planning Staff, focusing on issues such as the United Nations and human rights.

Lagon said he believes democracy is the bedrock foundation of human rights.

“I know in some people’s opinion that is out of fashion,” he said. “But I think democracy — and I by that, I mean much more than elections; I mean pluralism and no group being written off as not having rights or being subhuman — that whole package, that infrastructure of democracy, is the best insurance policy for human rights.

“It’s very much at the center of U.S. foreign policy and it should be,” Lagon added.

While the new Freedom House chief supports the notion of helping other countries nurture the seeds of democracy, he is wary of the “democracy building” or

The Washington Diplomat

January 2015

“democracy promotionâ€? branding that happened under the presidency of George W. Bush. “Democracy promotion has become associated with the Iraq intervention,â€? he lamented. “I think it’s essential for the United States to choose the middle option‌. Sometimes we’re going to need to assist armed opposition or even use military force, but there is a moral duty — and even more of an interest for the United States — among those who wish to fight nonviolently with civil resistance to open their countries and try to get their governments to reform.â€?

Lagon said members of Congress and budget hawks speak frequently of fiscal restraints on the United States, but he insists money spent on stabilizing shaky governmental foundations around the world is money well spent. “It is a relative bargain to assist civil society groups and other countries in Africa, South Asia or Latin America in their capacity to call for basic liberties and build more democratic countries,� he said. “It’s much more than U.S. values. It’s also in our interest that these countries be more stable and prosperous over time.�

Lagon said perhaps his biggest challenge as he takes over the presidential role at Freedom House this month is integrating its multiple missions. “The interesting thing about Freedom House is it does three things,� he explained. “It does state-of-the-art research-making assessments of other countries and their level of political liberties.

It does global advocacy, and it does programmatic work on the ground, assisting human rights defenders and civil society groups who fight for themselves. “Getting those three to work together is important,� Lagon continued.“The reports need to better inform the programmatic work and the programmatic work on the ground needs to inform the advocacy that is happening. There is an opportunity to show that Freedom House does all three. “The organization is fairly unique because there are human rights organizations and democracy organizations, but [at Freedom House] there is an overlap. It has a basic premise that the best protection for human rights is democracy.�

Lagon said that as a former college professor, he looks forward to contributing to Freedom House’s rigorous program of grading nations on their commitments to liberty and human rights. “I seem to be comfortable with grading,� he said with a smile.

Photo: OSCE / Thomas Rymer

A voter casts her ballot at a polling station in Kiev during Ukraine’s early parliamentary elections on Oct. 26, 2014. Mark P. Lagon, the incoming president of Freedom House, says he believes that democracy is the bedrock of human rights.

“These grades cause indigestion to the governments that get bad marks.They cause indigestion to pinstriped diplomats who want to focus on energy access and trade issues and counterterrorism and other interests, but those reports — credible reports that give grades to other countries — focus the mind of those countries.

They care. Some will resist doing anything but others will work to change.�

One of the areas in which Freedom House casts its watchful eye is human trafficking, or modern-day slavery as many people have dubbed it. It’s a subject Lagon knows extremely well having specialized in it at the State Department and then as executive director of Polaris, a Washington-based activism and information group devoted to the issue. Lagon said human trafficking in all its forms — whether its child, adult, sex or labor — has become a more visible issue in the eyes of the general public. The State Department estimates there are some 20 million victims of human trafficking each year, many of them forced into labor.

“I think we’re moving from an area of general wariness to one of greater tangible understanding that human trafficking is more than sex trafficking,� Lagon said.“A lot of it has to do with exploitation for labor. Perhaps the most vulnerable victims are children but the majority is adults. And human trafficking does not require people crossing borders. We’re learning that migrants can be victims, as well as those who are undocumented.�

Lagon also had a stern message for foreign diplomats working in the United States:Watch how you treat your servants at the embassies and ambassador residences; a few high-profile cases of diplomats abusing or not paying their domestic help have made headlines over the years (also see “Oppressed Nannies: State Department Orders Embassies to Clean Up Their Actâ€? in the February 2010 issue of The Washington Diplomat). “They need to understand the United States does not just have episodic interest in this issue,â€? he said. “It should be striking to countries that the U.S. spends all this time on issues that involve maids and migrant workers and prostituted women ‌ because the U.S. is concerned when somebody is treated as subhuman. “It is not going to go away,â€? he added. “There is also a very particular way that embassies need to be aware of the problem, which is one form of human trafficking. That is diplomats with domestic servants from third countries who so mistreat those guest workers that it counts as human trafficking. “The U.S. takes seriously when the officials of other governments are complicit in human trafficking, and the government is working to create a system of tracking those domestic servants so that diplomatic immunity does not become diplomatic impunity,â€?

Lagon said.

He also encouraged people in general to keep their collective chins up about the state of democracy and human rights in places like Russia and the Middle East. “We need to try and help civil society actors try to help themselves,� he said. “We shouldn’t be depressed by the disinformation put out by [Russian President Vladimir] Putin or the stalling of the Arab Spring,� he said. “There is a great opportunity for the United States and international associations like Freedom House to help those who want to help themselves.�

Michael Coleman (@michaelcoleman) is a contributing writer for The Washington Diplomat.

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International Relations

Middle East

Islamic State’s Rise Revives Old Strains in U.S.- Saudi Ties

by Sean Lyngaas

T

o help repel the territorial advances of the so-called Islamic State, the United States has sought out an old ally in Saudi Arabia.

But analysts say Riyadh and Washington see two distinct images from the same drawing of chaos in Syria and Iraq: The Saudis are focused on overthrowing Syrian President Bashar al-Assad, while the Americans are chiefly concerned with — to use President Obama’s words — degrading and ultimately destroying the Islamic State, also known as ISIS or ISIL. Contradictory means underpin these goals, as illustrated by Riyadh’s willingness to support jihadists fighting Assad who have no love for the United States.The efficacy of Saudi-American cooperation against the Islamic State may rest partly on how much the Saudi hereditary monarchy, which has long exported its austere brand of Islam, sees the terrorist group as a direct threat to the kingdom.

Recent events indicate Saudi royals are keenly aware of that danger. But history also shows a vicious boomerang effect on U.S. and Saudi targets stemming from Saudi support for fundamentalism, most obviously with the terrorist attacks of Sept. 11, 2001.

“Our objectives align but they’re not congruent,” said former U.S. Ambassador to Saudi Arabia Charles W. Freeman Jr., referring to U.S. and Saudi goals in quelling violence in Syria and Iraq.“Da’ish has actually been useful to the Saudis in terms of their … objectives in both Syria and Iraq,” he added, using the Arabic acronym for the Islamic State. “Which is not to say they’re aligned with Da’ish, but they’re much less concerned about it than we are.”

Those Saudi objectives include blunting the influence of its regional rival, Iran. For this, Islamic State fighters, who despise Shiites and have executed them in droves, have been convenient for a Saudi monarchy that claims to be the guardian of Sunni Islam and is dealing with its own restive Shiite minority. Assad, meanwhile, is an ally of Iran whom Saudi Arabia desperately wants to see unseated.

Against that backdrop, two recent developments in Saudi-American cooperation against the Islamic State stand out. First, Saudi Arabia in September agreed to a U.S. request to host training for moderate Syrian rebels on Saudi soil. The agreement, whose details remain vague, seemed to breed confidence on the U.S. side about Saudi willingness to combat the group.

“We are in a position, I think, to be pretty specific with the Saudis about what we’d like,”a senior State Department official told The New York Times when the newspaper reported the agreement. “We’re fairly confident they will be forward leaning on this.”

But if and when graduates of the Saudi training camp reach Syria, they will join a mélange of fighters with various allegiances that make it difficult to distinguish between who is fighting Assad and who is fighting the Islamic State.

The second recent development in Saudi-American

Page 6

“

Photo: Ali Mansuri / CCA 2.5 Generic via Wikimedia Commons

Our objectives align but they’re not congruent…. [The Islamic State] has actually been useful to the Saudis in terms of their … objectives in both Syria and Iraq.

”

— Charles W. Freeman Jr.

former U.S. ambassador to Saudi Arabia

cooperation against the Islamic State saw Saudi Arabia and a handful of Arab countries join the U.S.-led coalition to bomb the terrorist group in September.The Saudis may have preferred those bombs aimed at Damascus, but they nevertheless saw an upside in joining the coalition, according to journalist David Ottaway of the Wilson Center.

“I think the disagreement [in targeting Assad or the Islamic State] was always there but the Saudis calculated it was more important to get the Obama administration re-involved in the Middle East after years of dithering and talking about the ‘pivot to Asia,’” said Ottaway, former Cairo bureau chief for The Washington Post and author of a book on U.S.-Saudi relations.

Since then, however, Saudi Arabia, along with America’s other Persian Gulf allies, have grown frustrated by Obama’s campaign of airstrikes, despite having clamored for an intervention for years. They say the military offensive, which exclusively targets the Islamic State, inadvertently helps the Syrian regime and symbolizes the administration’s seemingly ambivalent goals in the region.

A supplicating pilgrim prays at Mecca in Saudi Arabia. The Saudi monarchy considers itself to be the guardian of Sunni Islam, and the ruling family’s legitimacy stems in part from its alliance with the conservative clerical establishment.

The Saudis have long wanted Obama to do more to combat Assad and were disappointed when the American president opted not to order airstrikes on Damascus last year after Assad allegedly used chemical weapons. A reported meeting earlier this year between Secretary of State John Kerry and Prince Bandar bin Sultan, who was ambassador to the U.S. for over 20 years and Saudi intelligence chief until April, summed up the two countries’ frustrations with each other’s Syria policy. According to journalist Patrick Cockburn, Kerry pressed Bandar on Saudi financing of jihadists in Syria, and the latter shot back by sharply criticizing Obama for not using force in Syria in response to Assad’s reported use of chemical weapons.

Saudi Alarm A more agreeable and straightforward topic for Washington and Riyadh is defending Saudi Arabia from the Islamic State threat to the kingdom. An estimated 2,000 Saudis have joined ISIS, the BBC reported, and the terrorist group has sought to capitalize on what appeal it has in the kingdom.

An audio recording purportedly of Islamic State leader Abu Bakr al-Baghdadi, released by the group’s media arm Nov. 13, called on sympathizers in Saudi Arabia to rise up against the ruling House of Saud. Baghdadi also called for attacks against Shiites in Saudi Arabia’s oil-rich Eastern Province. He likely felt emboldened by a Nov. 3 attack by gunmen that left several Shiites dead in that province’s

The Washington Diplomat

January 2015

al-Ahsa district. Saudi authorities responded swiftly, reportedly arresting no less than 77 people and blaming the Islamic State for ordering the attack.

The quick response from Saudi authorities, along with Saudi Interior Minister Mohammed bin Nayef’s reported visit with victims’ families, likely show that the incident is affecting how Riyadh evaluates the threat from the Islamic State, wrote Simon Henderson, a Gulf expert at the Washington Institute for Near East Policy, in an email.

Saudi Arabia, through the country’s highest religious authority, has also sought to repudiate the Islamic State’s religious credentials. In August, Grand Mufti Sheikh Abdulaziz Al al-Sheikh called the Islamic State and al-Qaeda “enemy number one of Islam,” adding,“Muslims are their first victims.”

The Saudi government has used this dual approach to extremism — killing suspected militants and touting Saudi religious credentials — to beat back terrorism on its own soil in recent years. Saudis cite that record to anyone who would question the country’s commitment to defeating the Islamic State, pointing out that hundreds of Saudis were killed in al-Qaeda-inspired attacks over the last decade.

“Saudi Arabia is the only authority in the region with the power and legitimacy to bring ISIS down,” two Saudi scholars wrote in a New York Times op-ed in September. “Having effectively eradicated al-Qaeda in the kingdom, the Saudi government, with its experience fighting terrorism, is uniquely positioned to deal with ISIS, which is, after all, an al-Qaeda-aligned organization.”

public support to certain terrorist groups, but the Islamic State’s quest to create a Muslim caliphate resonates with some in the conservative society who view Shiites as infidels and the West as enemies.

Both al-Qaeda and the Islamic State have long railed against the Sunni monarchy’s coziness with the United States, so the American plan to train a rebel Syrian army in Saudi Arabia could backfire and attract jihadi recruits. “Recall that the presence of U.S. troops in the kingdom during and after the first Gulf War became a source of rage for Sunni clerics and a recruiting bonanza for a then tiny outfit called al-Qaeda,” wrote Dan Murphy of the Christian Science Monitor.

For Freeman, Washington’s lack of insistence on Riyadh taking the lead to address a security threat that directly affects the Saudis has had a perverse effect. “One of many flaws in our approach to all thisofismistakes the creation moral and NOTE: Although every effort is made to assure your ad is of free in of spelling hazard, meaning that we step in to assume risks content it is ultimately up to the customer to make the final proof. for others and thereby relieve them of those risks, which means that they’re free to pursue PHoTo: aRBITRaRILy0 / CCa 3.0 vIa WIKIMEdIa CoMMonS The first two faxed changes will be made at no costpriorities, to the ”advertiser, changes other he said. “Sosubsequent we inadvertently a man walks by the Mall of arabia in Jeddah, a major urban in Saudiat arabia. willcenter be billed a rate of $75 per faxed alteration. ads are considered approved. reinforceSigned the Saudi proclivity not to see Da’ish as the most menacing development in the region, ment’s commitment to defeating the Islamic Islam (or Salafism check as the Saudis to call it) orMark not to see it aschanges the first priority. ” Please thisprefer ad carefully. any to your ad.

State may always linger, given Riyadh’s history of provides the bedrock for the puritanical beliefs What’s clear is that Saudi Arabia, as in previsupport for Islamic extremists.

Islamicsign Stateand extremists.

Al Saud ous Middle East conflicts, is a key but bedevilIf thethat adguide is correct fax to: The (301) 949-0065 needs changes The jury is still out on laws introduced by the dynasty espouses this literal interpretation of ing ally for U.S. efforts to stop the Islamic State.

Saudi government last year to ban financial sup- Islam as part of its ruling bargain with the coun- If the game was only about defending Saudi soil The try’s Washington Diplomat port for jihadist groups and stop young Saudis powerful Wahhabi clerics, who(301) in turn933-3552 pro- from the group, Riyadh and Washington would from going abroad to fight, according to vide the family with religious cover. The House be in lockstep. But when it comes to applying Henderson. “It’s not clear how successful these of Saud __________________________________________________________ is left to govern politically, while the cler- that cooperation to foreign lands in Saudi Approved measures have been and, given Saudi past sup- ics hold sway over social issues. But this alliance Arabia’s backyard, the two sides remain out of Changes ___________________________________________________________ port for jihadists in Afghanistan, Chechnya [and] is being tested by the large number of radical- sync.

Bosnia … how sincere Riyadh is,” he wrote. ___________________________________________________________________ ized Saudis flocking to the Islamic State who Sean Lyngaas (@snlyngaas) is a contributing writer The skepticism is well founded given that could return to pose a threat to the kingdom.

The House of Saud has moved to criminalize for The Washington Diplomat.

Saudi Arabia’s own hard-line Wahhabi strain of

OLD HaBItS DIE HaRD Yet doubts in the West about the Saudi govern-

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International Relations

Europe

Latvia Takes Over EU Presidency Amid Fears of Russian Aggression

by Larry Luxner

T

iny Latvia, home to 2 million inhabitants, inherits the rotating presidency of the European Union on Jan. 1, 2015 — one year after adopting the euro as its official currency. But the Baltic republic’s anti-Russian stance is already infuriating Moscow.

While the title is somewhat symbolic, Latvia’s role at the helm of the EU significantly increases its visibility and influence for the next six months, particularly as the 28-member bloc takes on an increasingly belligerent Kremlin.

Andris Razāns, Latvia’s ambassador to the United States, said his country intends to make the most of its six-month presidency. Next May, Riga will host a summit of the Eastern Partnership, a five-year-old initiative governing the EU’s relationship with the former Soviet republics of Armenia, Azerbaijan, Belarus, Georgia, Moldova and, notably, Ukraine, where Russia-backed separatists have been waging a war against the pro-Western government in Kiev.The emphasis will be on civil society and people-to-people contacts, which implies progress toward visa-free travel to the EU for the 76 million people living in the region.

“We have seen tremendous change since we regained independence in 1991,” said Razāns, a career diplomat who replaced Andrejs Pildegovičs as Latvia’s envoy in Washington two and a half years ago. “For a country that was occupied by the Soviet Union, we have made a gigantic step and now will be running EU business for the next half a year. We’ll be setting agendas and working not only for our national sake but for the sake of all 28 member countries, trying to find the best solutions in each and every area where the EU is relevant.”

The relevance of Latvia and its Baltic neighbors, Lithuania and Estonia, has been catapulted by the crisis in Ukraine, where fighting has claimed an estimated 4,300 lives since April, according to the United Nations. Last March, Russian President Vladimir Putin ratcheted up tensions with the West by annexing Crimea. More recently, a series of Russian military incursions and even near collisions in European airspace have rattled nerves in Finland, Sweden, the Baltics and even as far as Portugal, reviving Cold War-era distrust and rejuvenating the NATO alliance.

Latvia, Lithuania and Estonia joined the security bloc in 2004 and have been clam-

Page 8

“

Photo: David Holt / www.flickr.com/photos/zongo/4818695236/ CCA 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons

Russia’s annexation of Crimea and its occupation of Ukraine were blunt violations of international law.

Facts are facts. This is a challenge to the post-Cold War order in Europe.

”

— Andris Razāns, ambassador of Latvia to the United States oring for stepped-up NATO deployments in the wake of Putin’s recent provocations.

In fact, the three Baltics have been sounding the alarm about a Russian resurgence for years, but the warnings largely fell on deaf ears. Paraphrasing President Obama’s recent speech in Estonia, Razāns suggested that Europeans have every reason to fear Putin.

“Nobody really can say what is in the mindset of people who planned and exercised the invasion of Ukraine,” he said. “If you see Russian troops moving into Ukraine, it’s a threat not only to Ukrainians or people in Riga or Vilnius, but also to people in London, Madrid or Paris.”

None of this, however, means that World War III is imminent, says Razāns.

“I simply don’t believe it’s possible to repeat the history of 1939 given today’s realities. Today we have a completely different situation,” said the ambassador.

“Latvia, Lithuania, Estonia, Poland and Romania are not only a part of the EU but also members of NATO, and NATO has immediately taken very important, con-

crete and understandable steps to reinforce our security by the positioning of additional NATO troops. People in the street see this.”

NATO has accused Moscow of sending troops and weapons to Ukraine in a bid to help pro-Russian rebels in the east. In response, it is developing a rapid response force of about 3,000 to 4,000 troops ready to counter a Russian attack against the Baltics or Central Europe. In addition, the Pentagon has extended its “temporary” deployment of U.S. troops in Poland and the Baltics through 2015. Originally, the soldiers were supposed to leave by year’s end, but NATO wants to keep them in place for another 12 months.

“We have planned rotations out through next year,” Lt. Gen. Frederick Hodges, commander of NATO land forces, said at a Nov. 20 press briefing in Vilnius. “There are going to be U.S. Army forces here in Lithuania, as well as Estonia, Latvia and Poland, for as long as is required to deter Russian aggression and to assure our allies.”

Churches and other historic buildings line the Latvian capital of Riga, which in May will host a summit of the Eastern Partnership, a five-yearold initiative governing the EU’s relationship with the former Soviet republics.

Despite the tentative moves to bolster forces in vulnerable countries, NATO remains divided, underfunded and unsure of its purpose in confronting 21st-century threats. Moreover, under a 1997 accord with Russia, NATO is forbidden from stationing troops in the Baltics permanently; therefore the deployment remains a temporary one. Russia has denounced any military buildup as reneging on a promise it claimed was made after the breakup of the Soviet Union that NATO would not encroach on its borders. It was Ukraine’s political shift toward the EU last year — and fears it would eventually join NATO — that in part triggered Moscow’s backlash.

“They [NATO] are trying to destabilize the most stable region in the world: Northern Europe,” charged Russian Deputy Foreign Minister Alexei Meshkov in an interview with the Russian news agency Interfax. “The endless military exercises, transferring aircraft capable of carrying nuclear arms to the Baltic states. This reality is extremely negative.”

Latvia doesn’t buy the Russian rhetoric.

Having been occupied by the Soviets for

The Washington Diplomat

See latvia, page 10 January 2015

International Affairs

Natural Disasters

Haiti, Indonesia, Philippines Mark Solemn Disaster Anniversaries

by Larry Luxner

A

s Typhoon Hagupit closed in on the Philip­pines in early December with maximum sustained winds of 160 miles per hour, it was an eerie déjà vu for Jose L. Cuisia Jr., Manila’s ambassador to the United States.

“It looks like this one is taking the exact same path as Yolanda [also known as Typhoon Haiyan],” Cuisia remarked Dec. 4 as he prepared to hunker down in his office, directing the embassy’s humanitarian aid efforts from Washington in the event Hagupit — the sixth super typhoon to form in the Western Hemisphere in 2014 — made landfall as a Category 5 cyclone. Hagupit, which ultimately didn’t wind up being as powerful as Haiyan was, hit the eastern island of Samar, killing over 20 people and forcing 1 million to evacuate before being downgraded to a tropical storm.

Only two weeks earlier, Cuisia had led a symposium on the one-year anniversary of another killer typhoon, Haiyan.

That storm, known locally as Yolanda, was one of the deadliest tropical cyclones on record, and the strongest ever to hit the Philippines. Its sustained winds of up to 195 mph tore into the provincial capital of Tacloban, killing more than 6,300 people, injuring 28,000 and displacing about 4 million from their homes.

“Because the region does not represent a very big contributor to our GDP, with most of those people in agriculture and fishing, the impact to the Philippine economy was not as great as you would be expect,” said the ambassador.

“But we’re still recovering, and it’ll probably take a few more years to fully recover from that devastation.”

As horrible as Super Typhoon Haiyan was, the cyclone pales in comparison to two other natural disasters that left utter devastation on opposite sides of the globe — and whose somber anniversaries are being observed within

“

After years of rehabilitation and restoration, today the province and the people of Aceh have managed to overcome the catastrophe and continue on with rebuilding their cities and their lives.

”

— Budi Bowoleksono ambassador of Indonesia to the United States

three weeks of each other.

Ten years ago on Dec. 26, a 9.1-magnitude earthquake hit off the western coast of Sumatra, triggering a tsunami that killed at least 228,000 people in 14 countries, including 170,000 in Indonesia alone, according to the U.S. Geological Survey. But the Indonesian government has estimated that 220,000 of its citizens died — mainly in Aceh province — which would push up the total to around 280,000. Also badly hit were Sri Lanka, India and Thailand, and to a lesser extent Somalia, Myanmar and the January 2015

Photo: Larry Luxner

Above, a boxcar from a train that derailed during the devastating 2004 tsunami still stands at a memorial near Kilometer 88 of the Colombo-Galle road in Sri Lanka. At left, people flee a monstrous wave in Ao Nang, Thailand, during the 2004 tsunami, which killed at least 228,000 people in seven countries.

Photo: David Rydevik / Bild:Davidsvågfoto.JPG / Wikimedia Commons

Maldives.

In addition, some 9,000 tourists from Europe and elsewhere were among the dead and missing. The image of a lone mosque in the Aceh town of Lhoknga — surrounded by a sea of mud and debris — came to symbolize the devastation wrought by one of the deadliest natural occurrences in recorded history.

And five years ago, on Jan. 12, 2010, a powerful earthquake struck Haiti, leveling the capital of Port-au-Prince and leaving the Haitian economy in ruins. How many people died in that 7.0-magnitude quake is still unknown.

Estimates range wildly, from a low of 46,000, according to an unofficial 2011 report by USAID, to the widely reported figure of 230,000, to the government’s own “official” but possibly exaggerated death toll of 316,000.

What’s clear is that, while both disasters unleashed an outpouring of generosity from around the globe, the results on the ground today — long after the waters receded and rubble was cleared away — couldn’t be more different.

Raymond Joseph was Haiti’s ambassador in Washington when the earthquake struck, leaving an estimated 1.5 million homeless.

“Today, five years later, we still have more than 85,000 people living in 123 camps,” Joseph told The Washington Diplomat. “Some say there’s been progress, but when you consider that more than $10 billion was pledged for Haiti back in March 2010, one wonders what has happened to all that money. I’m quite sure there was enough to relocate everybody.”

More specifically, Joseph points to the Assessing Progress in Haiti Act of 2014, sponsored by Rep. Barbara Lee (D-Calif.) and Sen. Bill Nelson (D-Fla.). Of the $10.4 billion in international aid pledged by donors since the earthquake, Joseph said, $6.4 billion has been disbursed as of Sept. 30, 2013, and an additional $3.8 billion had been committed.

“However, nobody can tell us exactly where that money has gone. So Congress passed a law asking for a quarterly report from the secretary of state on what’s happening in Haiti,” he said, complaining that “after the earthquake, I personally raised more than $4.5 million, which I sent directly to the accounts given to me for the emergency. I don’t know whatever happened to it.”

There’s plenty of blame to go around for the missing money:A thicket of NGOs swarmed the country — some with good intentions, others not so much — and the lack of coordination only undermined the already-weak central government. Meanwhile, the corruption-addled government also most likely squandered some of the funds.

And amid the sheer chaos of the tragedy, transparency took a backseat to saving lives and alleviating some of the suffering.

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Latvia nearly 50 years, the Baltics are today among Moscow’s loudest critics. But even Latvia hasn’t been as brazen as neighboring Lithuania, whose president, Dalia Grybauskaite, recently accused her Russian counterpart, Putin, of running a “terrorist state.” That sparked immediate demands from some Russian lawmakers to break diplomatic ties with Lithuania.

“The fear is there, but it’s not purely a Latvian phenomenon,” Razāns told The Washington Diplomat. “Russia’s annexation of Crimea and its occupation of Ukraine were blunt violations of international law. Facts are facts. This is a challenge to the post-Cold War order in Europe.”

Razāns, 46, has a deep sense of history, having grown up well-versed in the details of Latvia’s turbulent past. In 1918, his country declared independence, but sovereignty would be shortlived. The secret Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact of 1939 — signed one week before the outbreak of World War II — divided Europe into Nazi and Soviet spheres of influence.

“That was the graveyard for all the calamities of Europe, and we ended up in the Soviet sphere without any legal or historical justification,” said Razāns. In June 1940, Soviet troops invaded Latvia, Lithuania and Estonia.A year later, the three were occupied by Nazi Germany and then recaptured by the Soviet Union in 1944. Besides Germany, no Western nation recognized the Soviet annexation as legitimate, but until 1990, all three Baltic states remained firmly under Moscow’s control.

“I’m old enough and fortunate enough to remember when Latvia was part of the Soviet Union. I spent my childhood and early years in a very different society from what we have today,” said Razāns, who studied engineering at Riga Polytechnic Institute, earning a master’s degree in history from the Latvian State University.

After joining his country’s Foreign Ministry in

Photo: Larry Luxner

Latvian Ambassador Andris Razāns, pictured with his wife Gunta, said his country intends to make the most of its upcoming presidency of the European Union, “trying to find the best solutions in each and every area where the EU is relevant.”

1992, he embarked on his first overseas assignment at the Latvian Embassy in Copenhagen.

Razāns went on to become deputy chief of mission in Stockholm (2000-03); diplomatic advisor to the Latvian prime minister (2004); ambassador to Denmark (2004-09); ambassador to Morocco (2008-10); and political director and undersecretary of state at the Foreign Ministry (2010-12).

The ambassador spoke to us the same week Germany marked the 25th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall.

“Of course, that event had geopolitical significance for Europeans and Americans, but we were living behind a double Berlin Wall,” Razāns explained.“First was the physical divide between communism and democracy in Europe, but then there was a second wall — the Soviet border — that was perhaps even more difficult to penetrate. And because of the injustice of the Second World War, Latvia found itself on the other side of that border.”

Few people could have imagined — even in the mid-1980s — that very soon, not only would the infamous wall come tumbling down, but that Germany would be reunited, communism itself would be defeated throughout Europe and the three Baltic states would finally regain their longsought independence.

Yet all those things did happen, in a dizzying sequence of events that stands as perhaps the most dramatic political transformation of the 20th century.

“I was 24,” Razāns recalled. “The Soviet Union collapsed for good, and there was very strong support from our Western allies. It was a moment of historic change, when we were allowed for the first time to travel to other European countries. One thing was very clear for Latvians:There was no question what kind of future we were looking for.”

At the time of the Soviet Union’s dissolution, he noted, there was no significant difference in the per-capita incomes of Latvia, Belarus or Ukraine — even though Latvia’s per-capita GDP today is twice that of Belarus and 3.75 times that of Ukraine. Of all the 15 former Soviet republics, only Estonia exceeds Latvia in per-capita GDP. “We all began from the very same position, and there were still Russian troops on our soil.We had very European roots, and that was perhaps our only advantage. But economically, we had to start from scratch with privatization and resolution of properties,” said the ambassador.

“It didn’t take long for politicians in my country to figure out that the only way to quickly cross the dividing line — from a closed society of one-party rule to a democratic, multiparty society — was through membership in the EU. Everybody recognized that it would be very difficult,” he said. “When we started the accession talks in 1994, there were a lot of skeptics.”

Nevertheless, Latvia’s dream came true a

decade later on May 1, 2004, when it was officially welcomed into the EU club. One consequence of that membership was an immediate drop in population. Already plagued by an extremely low birthrate, the problem was compounded when young people — suddenly given the chance to work and live elsewhere in Europe — left by the thousands, mainly to Great Britain, Ireland, Germany and various Scandinavian countries.

Even so, Latvia’s economy took off like never before. After sputtering in the first few years of independence, the former Soviet republic quickly became Europe’s fastest-rising star. With EU membership, Latvians suddenly had mobility, and the government began raising salaries to keep the smartest people from leaving. Excessive spending fueled inflation, but no one seemed to notice.

In 2006, Latvia’s GDP grew by a record 12 percent, followed by a 10 percent expansion in 2007. Latvia became a mecca for the high-tech, IT and financial sectors. It was one of the world’s first countries with more mobile phone lines than people, and Latvia quickly surpassed the United States in per-capita broadband Internet access.

But then, things came crashing down as liquidity suddenly dried up and banks stopped lending in 2008. The government was forced to buy 85 percent of Latvia’s second-largest bank, Parex. It also cut state salaries by 15 percent, leading to violent protests in Riga (see “Latvia Sobers Up as the Party Ends” in the May 2009 issue of The Washington Diplomat).

“It was like nothing we had experienced before, but we learned our lessons,” said Razāns.

“There was only one remedy: We had to live within our means. The cause of the crisis was simply that people relied too much on cheap, easy liquidity that they thought would be available forever. When Wall Street experienced problems in 2008, Latvia suffered as well. The shock was very deep.”

But painful austerity measures managed to turn the finances around. In late 2012, Latvia even repaid the IMF in full, several years early. And even though high unemployment persists — Latvia’s jobless rate now stands at around 12 percent — economists agree that the worst is over.

“It took approximately two and a half years, but we’re now among the most stable and safest countries in Europe,” said Razāns.

Peter Wittig, Germany’s ambassador to the United States, enthusiastically endorses Latvia as “a good example” for Europe’s troubled economies to follow.

“Structural reforms are difficult for all governments, because they usually entail measures that meet the resistance of certain interest groups.

See latvia, page 46

12/8/14 10:49 AM

The Washington Diplomat

January 2015

COVER PROFILE

Ambassador Peter Wittig

New Cold War on the Horizon?

Not Likely, Says German Envoy

by Larry Luxner

F

oreign embassies in Washington are often adorned with statues, monuments and memorials honoring their countries’ most important heroes, and now the German Embassy has one too: a three-ton, original concrete remnant of the Berlin Wall, covered in colorful graffiti and encased in plexiglass to protect against the elements.

This concrete monolith, complete with rebar poking out the sides, towers nearly 12 feet high and its smooth, rounded top is exactly 15.75 inches thick — which the East German communists who built the hated wall determined was the ideal diameter to stop would-be freedom seekers from grabbing on and hoisting themselves over the top.

A quarter-century after its destruction, similar segments of the Berlin Wall have been donated to at least 100 institutions around the world, including three in the District of Columbia: Johns Hopkins University’s School of Advanced International Studies, the Newseum and the Ronald Reagan Building and International Trade Center.

But the slab that now graces the German Embassy on Reservoir Road is unique, because it bears the autographs of many famous people, including the three heads of state without whom the Berlin Wall would have never fallen: President George H.W. Bush, German Chancellor Helmut Kohl and Soviet President Mikhail Gorbachev.

This hulking symbol of oppression was unveiled at a Nov. 13 ceremony, during which Brent Scowcroft, who was Bush’s national security advisor at the time, proudly added his signature to the dozens already there. At the top of the gray monument, in large red letters, is the slogan “Wir sind das Volk (We Are the People),” a tribute to those who made the toppling of the Berlin Wall possible 25 years ago.

“It was a moment nobody will ever forget,” Peter Wittig, Germany’s ambassador to the United States, told The Washington Diplomat in a recent interview.“I was in New York at the time, and I sat glued to my TV watching Tom Brokaw reporting live from Berlin. He had the great fortune to arrive on Nov. 9, 1989, and basically saw the events unfolding before his very eyes.”

Recalling that dramatic night as if it were yesterday, Wittig remembered how a member of the East German Politburo clumsily announced that people who had assembled on the communist side of the border were now free to leave — a premature declaration blurted out at the end of an otherwise monotonous, scripted press conference.

“It was a farcical end to East Germany, because that guy, in bureaucratic fashion, read out a text that nobody really understood,” Wittig said. “People asked, ‘Does that mean immediately?’ He said,‘Yeah, immediately.’That was the trigger. People stormed out of their apartments and crossed the wall. Brokaw interviewed that guy in English, and it was his scoop of a lifetime.”

In October, Brokaw joined Wittig at the German Residence for the annual Unity Day reception; this year’s festivities featured clunky Trabant cars on the gardens to offer a glimpse into East German life.While today, the fall of the Berlin Wall may seem like an inevitable consequence of history, at the time, the happiness of the moment was mixed with plenty of foreboding.

“My heart was filled with joy, but as a professional diplo-

January 2015

Photo: Larry Luxner

“

It’s not easy for Germans to realize that the era of cooperation with Russia is gone…. We have to salvage a dialogue with Russia, but at the same time we have to be very firm. Talking to each other doesn’t mean giving up on our principles.

And one of the core principles we stand for is territorial integrity and the inviolability of borders.

— Peter Wittig

”

ambassador of Germany to the United States

mat, I was thinking about the future,” Wittig said. “The Soviet Union still had hundreds of thousands of soldiers on German soil. One couldn’t predict what they would do. I was worried that this could get out of hand.”

Wittig’s vague fears of a Soviet backlash never materialized. The wall fell, East and West Germany officially reunified a year later, Moscow’s client states all got rid of their communist dictatorships and the Soviet Union itself soon disintegrated into 15 separate republics.

“Rather quickly, Eastern European states that used to belong to the Warsaw Pact became democracies, eventually joining the European Union,”Wittig said.“For my country, it meant that we were surrounded only by friends. All of a sudden, we found ourselves part of the same political family, and we entered into a very cooperative relationship with Russia.”

But it now appears the Moscow-Berlin honeymoon is over.

It’s been nearly a year since widespread protests in Kiev led to the overthrow of Ukraine’s pro-Russian president, Viktor Yanukovych — splitting the country apart and turning the Kremlin’s relationship with the West upside-down.

Following Yanukovych’s ouster last February, Russian President Vladimir Putin moved quickly to occupy strategic positions throughout Ukraine’s Crimean Peninsula, while separatists — egged on by Russian-speaking locals long distrustful of the central government in Kiev — began attacking official targets in eastern Ukraine.

As 2014 dragged on, tensions worsened. Putin officially annexed Crimea, Moscow-backed rebels took over parts of Ukraine’s industrial east, and in July, a Malaysian Airlines jet was shot down over rebel-controlled territory, killing all 298 people on board. Germany’s Federal Intelligence Service — relying on satellite images and diverse photo evidence — eventually concluded that pro-Russian separatists near Donetsk had blasted Flight MH17 out of the sky, using a captured Ukrainian Buk air defense missile system.

In September, the two sides negotiated a ceasefire in Belarus, but the so-called Minsk Protocol failed to take hold and hopes for a dialogue have since faded. Ukraine’s civil war has now killed an estimated 4,300 people (1,000 of them since the truce went into effect) and forced more than a million people to flee their homes. Meanwhile, relations between the West and Russia have plunged to lows reminiscent of the Cold War. The United States and European Union slapped sanctions on Moscow, criticizing it for trying to create a new “frozen conflict” in the region, while Putin accuses NATO of reneging on its pledge not to encircle Russia.

Somewhat in the middle of this geostrategic tug of war is Germany, which has been a key interlocutor with Russia, a major trading partner and energy supplier (Germany gets

Continued on next page The Washington Diplomat Page 11

about a third of its oil and gas from Russia). But even Berlin’s patience may be wearing thin.

“It’s not easy for Germans to realize that the era of cooperation with Russia is gone,” said Wittig, criticizing the “illegality of land grabs” being perpetrated by the Putin government.“We have to salvage a dialogue with Russia, but at the same time we have to be very firm. Talking to each other doesn’t mean giving up on our principles. And one of the core principles we stand for is territorial integrity and the inviolability of borders.”

Putin’s actions have reportedly infuriated German Chancellor Angela Merkel, who firmly supports European Union sanctions against Russia (although the bloc has ruled out further sanctions for now). In 2013, Germany — Russia’s leading EU trade partner — exported €36 billion worth of goods to Russia. In the first half of last year, those exports fell by more than 15 percent, and that was before Moscow imposed a ban on EU farm imports, in retaliation for Western sanctions.

Some 58 percent of Germans now support those sanctions even if they damage the German economy, up from 52 percent a month earlier, according to a poll released Nov. 28. The Politbarometer survey for ZDF television also found that 76 percent backed Merkel’s sharper tone; on Nov. 17, she accused Putin of “old thinking” and trampling on “the peaceful order in Europe.”

While this doesn’t mean a new Cold War is breaking out, Wittig said the EU and the United States must be on guard against further Russian aggression.

“We have to contain Russia’s possible advances, not only vis-à-vis Ukraine but also a push forward toward Europe and NATO countries. We must reassure the countries of NATO on the Eastern rim, and must be resilient in our posture,” said the ambassador.

FLAT PRINTING | LETTERPRESS |

Either way, Wittig said he cannot deny that the revelations by NSA whistleblower Edward Snowden have caused “a large segment of the German population” to distrust Washington.

“The scandal has not affected my job or impeded my work here in any way. I have always had the feeling of being a representative of a country that is respected in U.S. policy circles,” he said. “I just want to remind you how popular President Obama was and still is in my country, but — and there’s a big but — we notice that many of our concerns are also shared by many Americans. There’s a lively debate here in civil society and on the Hill about the right balance between legitimate security interests on one hand, and the right to privacy on the other.”

Wittig, 60, was born Aug. 11, 1954, which makes him three weeks younger than Merkel.

He’s a native of Bonn, former capital of the Federal Republic of Germany, where his father worked in a government ministry and his mother was a teacher. A graduate of Bonn, Freiburg, Canterbury and Oxford universities,Wittig joined Photo: © German Embassy in USA the German Foreign Service in 1982; his early A three-ton, original concrete remnant of the Berlin Wall, replete with colorful graffiti, recently arrived at the German assignments were to Madrid, the United Nations in New York, as private secretary to the foreign Embassy in Washington D.C. minister and as a spokesman for the Foreign “We know there are threats out there.We need each other at least 40 times. “She’s probably the Ministry. In 1997, Wittig was named ambassador reconnaissance and information, but at the same Western leader of his choice, and that doesn’t to Lebanon; he served in Beirut for two years time, we realize that we need close German- mean they’re schmoozing when they’re talking,” before moving to nearby Cyprus, where he American cooperation,”he continued.“Chancellor the ambassador said of his chancellor. “There’s a remained ambassador until 2002.

Following a series of Foreign Ministry posiMerkel is in total sync with what the Obama lot of straight talk going on. But it’s important tions in Berlin, he returned to New York in 2009 administration has been doing.The sanctions that that we continue talking.” the West decided on were crafted in close coordiMaureen Orth, writing in the January 2015 as Berlin’s ambassador to the United Nations, sucnation on all levels between two governments issue of Vanity Fair, said she was told that Merkel cessfully campaigning to win Germany a nonpervis-à-vis Russia and the Ukraine crisis. I think the spent more than 110 hours on the phone with manent seat on the Security Council. In March 2011, that council voted 10-0 to authorize a no-fly most valuable asset of that crisis and our rift with Putin last year.

Russia has been Western unity.

“Merkel’s Russian is as good as Putin’s German,” zone over Libya in an effort to force the Qaddafi “But on the other hand, we have to engage wrote Orth, noting that Putin was stationed in regime from power. Five countries abstained: Russia about Ukraine in a meaningful dialogue Dresden as a KGB agent. “Growing up in East Brazil, China, Germany, India and Russia. At the that produces results. So it’s about containment, Germany, Merkel won a prize as a teenager for time,Wittig justified Germany’s refusal to support but that’s not sufficient.We don’t have an interest being the third-best student Russian speaker in the no-fly zone due to “the likelihood of largeNOTE: everyDemocratic effort is made to assure your loss ad of is life” freeduring of mistakes in spelling the humanitarian opera-and in an isolated Russia.” theAlthough GDR [German Republic].

The scale contenta trip it istoultimately up she to the make thethefinal proof.also had a tion. Thattosame year, diplomat Wittig said Merkel and Putin have spoken to award included Moscow, where tookcustomer front-row seat to the beginning of Syria’s civil the opportunity to buy her first Beatles record.” war, which claimed well over 190,000changes lives, The no-nonsense former physics researcher, in The first two faxed changes will be made at no cost to thehasadvertiser, subsequent created millions of refugees, decimated the Syrian power since 2005, is now the longest-serving will be billed at a rate of $75 per faxed alteration. Signed ads are considered approved. national leader in the European Union and economy and destabilized the region (Germany THERMOGRAPHY | ENGRAVING remains unchallenged within her conservative itself is struggling to host tens of thousands of Please check changes ad.

Syrianany refugees).

On to thatyour front, Wittig says the Christian Democratic Unionthis party.ad carefully. Mark Orth says 2014 “brought the crisis in Ukraine, Security Council should’ve stepped in sooner.

If the adwhich is correct sign and fax Barack to: (301) 949-0065 needsthat changes “I still believe had the Security Council saw Merkel — not Obama — become the point person in the transatlantic acted much earlier — and had Russia and China alliance forDiplomat dealing with Putin [and] contin- not wielded their vetoes at a fairly early stage, The Washington (301)the933-3552 ued diplomatic fallout from the National Security before it turned into a fully fledged civil war — Agency’s infamous tapping of Merkel’s cell phone, we could have found a formula for a political Approved __________________________________________________________ followed by the revelation that the CIA was transition that could have averted the worst,” he attempting to recruit spies in the German gov- lamented. “This still fills me with sorrow. It’s a Changes ___________________________________________________________ tragedy.” ernment.” ___________________________________________________________________ As critical as Germany is to foreign policy chalLast year, Germany’s federal prosecutor opened an investigation to determine whether the NSA lenges ranging from Syria’s civil war to Russian monitored Merkel’s mobile phone by default, as meddling in Ukraine to the nuclear talks with part of a much larger surveillance program or Iran, its heft is felt most in its backyard, where the whether individual agents specifically listened in EU’s economic policy is pretty much dictated by on her calls, as at least one German tabloid has Berlin these days. The bloc’s economic powerhouse, Germany has pushed a prescription of claimed.

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January 2015

austerity for profligate eurozone members such as Greece and Spain, with mixed results. Germany has put in tens of billions of dollars toward bailouts to rescue debt-stricken nations, but in return it has demanded steep belt-tightening that has aggravated rampant unemployment.

Growth among the 18-nation eurozone has stagnated, with the European Central Bank fighting extremely low inflation and three of the eurozone’s largest economies — Germany, France and Italy — seeing manufacturing activity contract in October. The economic ministers of Germany and France recently released a report warning that Europe risks a “lost decade” if it does not tackle the “multiple ills” that ail it. The report urged, among other things, reforming France’s labor laws and boosting spending in Germany.

Even export-driven Germany has been feeling the pinch. In mid-October, the country’s Economy Ministry slashed its 2014 economic growth forecast to 1.2 percent from 1.8 percent, and its 2015 prediction to 1.3 percent from 2 percent.

Wolfgang Schäuble, Germany’s finance minister, has blamed at least part of the slowdown on the Ukraine conflict and the effect of sanctions against Russia. Others, however, cite Germany’s reluctance to raise deficits in order to stimulate the economy, part of “its beggar-thy-neighbor policies, which are in effect exporting deflation to its neighbors,” according to New York Times columnist Paul Krugman.

Yet Wittig argues that his country “continues to be an engine of growth” for Europe, with employment at a record high and real wages increasing. He noted that the Merkel government has supported this trend with the introduction of a minimum wage of €8.50 (about $10.60) per hour.

German voters rewarded their chancellor’s handling of the currency and sovereign debt crisis with an unprecedented third term in September 2013, even as a dozen other eurozone

Germany at a Glance independence: Jan. 18, 1871 Location: Central Europe, bordering the Baltic Sea and the north Sea, between the netherlands and Poland, south of denmark Capital: Berlin Population: 80.9 million (July 2014 estimate) Life expectancy: 80.4 years religions: Protestant 34 percent, Roman Catholic 34 percent, Muslim 3.7 percent, unaffiliated or other 28.3 percent gDP (purchasing power parity): $3.2 trillion (2013 estimate) gDP per-capita: $39,500 (2013 estimate) gDP growth: .5 percent (2013 estimate) unemployment: 5.3 percent (2013 estimate) Population below poverty line: 15.5 percent (2010 estimate) exports: Motor vehicles, machinery, chemicals, computer and electronic products, electrical equipment, pharmaceuticals, metals, transport equipment, foodstuffs, textiles, rubber and plastic products imports: Machinery, data processing equipment, vehicles, chemicals, oil and gas, metals, electric equipment, pharmaceuticals, foodstuffs, agricultural products Source: CIA World Factbook

governments have been voted out of office for much the same reason. “[F]rom Greece to Italy to the Netherlands, the testing political times have seen the rise of antiEuropean mavericks and populists on the hard left and on the extreme right, seeking to usurp mainstream political elites. Again, Germany remains the most notable exception to this pattern,” wrote Ian Traynor, Europe editor for The Guardian. “Merkel has been the dominant figure in drafting Europe’s response to the crisis, the architect of austerity, a word that she privately

professes to despise. Her approach has been incremental, cautious, always acting only at the last minute. She has been accused of dithering, lacking resolve and boldness. But her winning a third term, with an increased share of the vote for her Christian Democrats than in 2009 no less, will vindicate her confidence in the way she has dealt with the challenge.”

Her reforms have paid off, argued Wittig.

Growth has returned to the troubled EU members, with eurozone economies as a whole expanding by 0.2 percent in the third quarter of

2014, slightly better than expected. Among euro area member states, Greece saw the highest growth (0.7 percent), followed by Slovakia (0.6 percent), Spain (0.5 percent), Latvia (0.4 percent) and France (0.3 percent).That growth is still measly, however, compared to the endemic joblessness plaguing countries like Greece and Spain.

Indeed, despite Merkel’s own 74 percent popularity rating at home, the chancellor is loathed in parts of Europe, where some protesters have even gone so far as to depict Merkel with a Hitler mustache.

But Wittig told us his government is firmly committed to a balanced budget.With a very low birth rate that implies a dramatic change in Germany’s demographics — the current population of 82 million is projected to fall to around 65 million by 2060 — the debt Germany incurs today will have to be paid back by fewer people in the future. By 2060, according to official statistics, every third German will be at least 65 years old, the number of 70-year-olds will be twice the number of newborn children and the proportion of Germans 80 years or older will hit a record 14 percent.

For now, said Wittig, Germany’s focus is on two objectives: to manage Europe’s debt and to foster competitiveness.

“That’s something we are very eager to see: that in the long run, Europe remains a competitive actor in this globalized economy,” he explained.“To bring that about requires structural reforms in all our countries, and those reforms are difficult to do, because they usually entail measures that meet the resistance of certain interest groups. But they are necessary. Otherwise, Europe will not remain competitive.”

The ambassador solemnly added: “We cannot indebt ourselves limitlessly at the expense of future generations.That would be irresponsible.”

Larry Luxner is news editor of The Washington Diplomat.

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The Washington Diplomat Page 13

International Relations

Adoption

Americans Hoping to Adopt Abroad Need Plenty of Patience, Persistence

by Martin Austermuhle

I

t was two years ago that Russian President Vladimir Putin signed into law a ban on the adoption of Russian children by U.S. citizens, a prohibition that remains in effect to this day. Though adoptions from Russia had been dropping steadily since 2004 — that year, 5,862 Russian children were adopted

by U.S. citizens, while only 749 were adopted in 2012 — the pen-stroke prohibition seemed rooted less in the welfare of the children and more in the deteriorating relations between the U.S. and Russia.

“

But such is the unpredictable nature of intercountry adoptions, say some adoption experts and advocates. As U.S. individuals and couples look abroad for children to adopt — 7,092 children were adopted from foreign countries in 2013, according to the State Department — experts say that prospective parents must be patient and persistent, not to mention ready to shell out significant sums throughout the lengthy process. Despite the longstanding obstacles and recent drop in U.S. overseas adoptions, nearly a quarter of a million children from other countries were adopted by Americans between 1999 and 2013.

“It’s a very complicated process for adoptive families. It requires the coordination of two and sometimes multiple countries’ laws and traditions,”said Trish Maskew, an expert in adoption who in September 2014 was appointed to head the State Department’s Adoption Division, which is part of the Bureau of Consular Affairs.

It’s a very complicated process for adoptive families. It requires the coordination of two and sometimes multiple countries’ laws and traditions.

”

— Trish Maskew chief of the State Department Adoption Division

The 1993 Hague Convention on the Protection of Children and Cooperation in Respect of Intercountry Adoption is the international treaty governing intercountry adoptions. It establishes basic standards for parties to the convention, including a requirement that a central national authority be created to handle adoptions.

Currently, 90 countries are party to the convention, including the United States, which acceded in 2008.

Yet even within the international accord, challenges exist. Though both the United States and Guatemala are party to the convention, for example, in 2008 the adoption pipeline between the two countries was closed down after the State Department raised concerns that Guatemala was not

Page 14

living up to the standards and expectations established by the convention. The impact was immediate and significant: While 4,112 Guatemalan children were adopted by U.S. citizens in 2008, that number dropped to 754 the next year and now hovers in the dozens annually.

Guatemala isn’t the only convention country that the United States won’t work with in adoptions: The list also includes Cambodia, Cape Verde, Fiji, Kazakhstan, Montenegro, Rwanda, Senegal, Swaziland and Vietnam, although restrictions were recently eased for the latter.

State Department officials say that despite the convention, U.S. citizens are still free to adopt from non-convention countries, provided another formal arrangement exists with the United States.

For that, they say, consular officials working in U.S. embassies abroad cooperate with foreign governments on adoption agreements and offer technical assistance in establishing programs that live up to the basic standards set out by the convention.

Ethiopia, for example, is a non-convention country, but after China it had the largest number of adoptions to U.S. parents in 2013: 993. That also goes for Haiti, Uganda and Ukraine, all non-convention countries. In 2013, a combined 1,102 children were adopted from those countries.

Still, that can mean navigating laws and regulations for adoptions that can vary widely from country to country, says Tina Ji, who heads up the international adoption program at the Barker Foundation, a Maryland-based adoption agency that has been in business for close to 70 years.

“One thing would be country eligibility requirement. They vary from country to country, but some countries are pretty restrictive on age, health [and] criminal background. Some countries have very strict guidelines. Mental health issues are viewed very differently in other countries, and so a minor mental health issue that’s controlled by medication could prevent a family from adopting a child in certain countries,” she explained.

To understand these restrictions, working with an agency — like the Barker Foundation — can help, she says. The group has adoption programs in South Korea, Colombia, India and China. Ji noted

Photo: diane diederich photography / istock

that China is a popular option — in 2013, 2,306 Chinese children were adopted by U.S. citizens — because it has created an effective centralized mechanism to process adoptions.

“Overall, because you work with this entity in China … they are, in general, pretty responsive and they have standardized processes. They’re more predictable than other countries,” she said.

Ji also said that prospective parents have to be realistic about the children who may be available to them in a given country and through a given program; many tend to offer older children with some physical or psychological issues.

“If they’re not going to consider any developmental delays, or they’re not going to consider an abandoned child with no medical history, then we will say that this program will not work for you,” she said.

“In China, for example, the majority of the children were abandoned.There’s no medical history. Pretty much all the children we’re looking at, you have to expect some developmental delays. They’re not kids that come from ideal situations.”

That raises another challenge she often warns parents of: the time it can take to complete an adoption. In China, she says, the wait for a young, healthy child is currently eight years. For other children, the wait is shorter: According to the State Department, the average completion time in 2013 for adoptions from China was 257 days. In Costa Rica, it was 560 days, in India it was 616 days.

“It’s also pretty expensive to adopt internationally. That’s a consideration,” Ji said. South Korea requires two trips by adoptive parents, while Colombia requires a six-week stay.

Finally, as Russia demonstrated, Ji said she often tells parents that politics may infringe on good policy.“We say that all the time.That would be one of the risks for any family to consider going into an adoption.”

Given all the considerations and challenges, Maskew says her office seeks to serve as a clearinghouse of information for prospective parents.

“It’s difficult for adoptive families to make sure that they know exactly how the process works, so we try to help that by providing as much information as we can that says this is what the process is in this country,” she told us.

Maskew also says the State Department is consistently working to ensure that U.S. citizens can provide homes for children from foreign countries.

“We believe that adoption should be an option for children when they can’t find permanency in their countries of birth. It’s a priority for the department,” she said.

“We work tirelessly though diplomatic efforts to encourage the availability of intercountry adoptions as an option for children when they can’t find homes in their countries.”

Martin Austermuhle (@maustermuhle) is a contributing writer for The Washington Diplomat.

The Washington Diplomat

January 2015

Medical

Thyroid Disorders

Hyperthyroidism: Too Much of a Good Thing

by Gina Shaw

W

hen you’re pregnant, you often find yourself hyper-aware of every little change in your body and wondering what it means about your health and your baby’s. That twinge in your belly — was it the baby kicking for the first time? Just a cramp?

Or a sign of a serious problem?

One set of symptoms you should never ignore (whether pregnant or not): shortness of breath and/or heart palpitations.

These may be — and often are — just the typical accompaniment to a normal pregnancy, but in some cases they can point to a condition that can be dangerous: hyperthyroidism.

Last month, we talked about hypothyroidism, which is when the thyroid — that butterfly-shaped gland at the base of the neck that helps to regulate your metabolism — is sluggish.The thyroid can also develop exactly the opposite problem, switching into overdrive in a condition known as hyperthyroidism.

Hyperthyroidism is less common than hypothyroidism and more difficult to treat (often, the end goal of treatment is to get to a hypothyroid state, the lesser of two evils). The most common cause of hyperthyroidism is known as Graves’ disease, which overwhelmingly strikes women, often in middle age. It’s an autoimmune condition in which your body’s immune system produces antibodies against its own healthy cells — in this case, antibodies that bind to the surface of thyroid cells and stimuTwo-part late them to produce series too much thyroid horThis story is the mone.

The two other causes second in a twoof hyperthyroidism are part series on thyroid nodules and thyroid disorders. inflammation, including Last month’s postpartum thyroiditis, issue examined which causes a burst of hypothyroidism. excess thyroid hormone to leak into your bloodstream. Unlike Graves, however, a bout of thyroiditis will generally resolve on its own in a few weeks or months.

While Graves can strike at any time in life (it’s been suggested stress can trigger an onset of symptoms), the disorder is particularly dangerous in pregnancy. It occurs in about one of every 1,500 pregJanuary 2015

Photo: Max Tactic / fotolia

nant women. Some already have an overactive thyroid when they become pregnant (whether or not they’re aware of it); others develop hyperthyroidism during pregnancy.

Besides heart palpitations, flutters and shortness of breath, the symptoms of hyperthyroidism can include: • Fatigue or muscle weakness • Weight loss • Frequent bowel movements • Increased appetite • Intolerance for heat • Increased sweating • Hand tremors • Nervousness • Restlessness • Sleep problems • Hair loss • Changes in menstrual patterns • Graves’ exophthalmos, an eye disorder that produces protruding, red and sensitive eyes Some of these symptoms also sound a lot like the symptoms a woman will experience during a normal pregnancy, which is part of what makes diagnosing hyperthyroidism in pregnancy so tricky. But it’s important not to ignore these symptoms, because if they do point to thyroid disease and your hyperthyroidism isn’t controlled, it can lead to a host of problems for both you and your baby, including premature birth and low birth weight, or even miscarriage and stillbirth. For women, the risks include congestive heart

failure, anemia and, very rarely, an extreme and potentially life-threatening form of hyperthyroidism called thyroid storm.

Hypothyroidism in pregnancy can also be dangerous, potentially harming fetal brain development. But despite these risks, most national medical organizations don’t recommend routine thyroid testing in pregnancy unless a woman has symptoms or is otherwise at high risk for a thyroid disorder (for example, if she has a significant family history of thyroid problems).

That approach has its flaws, however:A British study found that limiting testing to “high-risk” pregnant women missed 30 percent of those with hypothyroidism and 69 percent of those with hyperthyroidism.

One organization, the American Association of Clinical Endocrinologists, recommends routine thyroid screening in all pregnant women. Others are waiting for the results of large clinical trials that aim to test whether or not treating pregnant women with mild thyroid disorders improves outcomes for mother and baby.

That’s because the treatments for hyperthyroidism or hypothyroidism during pregnancy have risks of their own.

Both anti-thyroid medications used to treat hyperthyroidism and, to a lesser extent, thyroid hormone pills that treat an underactive thyroid can cross the placenta and potentially affect the developing baby.

A study presented at the American

Hyperthyroidism, like hypothyroidism, is more common among women and produces a variety of symptoms, from heart palpitations to pregnancy complications.

Thyroid Association meeting in 2013 found that two of the drugs most commonly used to treat hyperthyroidism, propylthiouracil (PTU) and methimazole, were linked to a 50 percent to 75 percent increase in birth defects, with methima-

The most common cause of hyperthyroidism is known as Graves’ disease, an autoimmune condition in which your body’s immune system produces antibodies against its own healthy cells. zole carrying a higher risk (which is why PTU is prescribed during the first trimester). PTU was linked primarily to facial and neck anomalies, while methimazole was tied more commonly to musculoskeletal problems.

Even for women with Graves who aren’t pregnant, PTU and methimazole

Continued on next page The Washington Diplomat Page 15

Photo: Larry Luxner

from page 9

Disasters Joseph stepped down as ambassador eight months after the earthquake to run for president, but was disqualified on a technicality. So was his younger cousin, the hip-hop recording artist and composer Wyclef Jean. Joseph, now 83, sharply criticized the man who eventually became Haiti’s leader, Michel Martelly, for extravagant spending.

Martelly has also come under fire recently by thousands of anti-government protesters who have demanded that he step down and call elections. “Since the new government took over in 2011, they claim they have housed most of the homeless. But still we have all these people in tents,�

Joseph said.“Every year they have two major carnivals; the last one in GonaĂŻves cost $5 million.

Whenever I see all this waste and people still living in tents, I’m not happy.�

Haiti’s current envoy to the United States, Paul Altidor, lived through the temblor. He was at a business meeting in the Hotel Montana in Port-auPrince and emerged with barely a scratch, while people all around him were crushed to death in an instant.

Altidor couldn’t be reached for comment for this story, though he denied in a September 2012 cover profile for The Diplomat that the Martelly government had squandered billions in humanitarian assistance in the earthquake’s aftermath.

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The rubble of destroyed buildings clutter downtown Port-au-Prince in the aftermath of the January 2010 earthquake that ravaged Haiti and killed anywhere from 46,000 up to 316,000 people.

“Very little of the aid going to Haiti goes to public entities anyway, so in terms of accountability, it’s hard to even claim that the government is stealing money, when in reality it’s not being funneled to public entities but mainly NGOs,� said the ambassador, formerly vice president of the Washington-based Clinton Bush Haiti Fund.“How can you be stealing something you don’t even have?�

The Assessing Progress in Haiti Act, which President Obama signed into law on Aug. 8, is an effort to clean house, so to speak. It requires USAID and other agencies to regularly report to Congress regarding benchmarks, strategies and contracting for post-earthquake aid activities in Haiti — including efforts aimed at eradicating the cholera epidemic that has killed more than 8,500 people since its outbreak at a U.N. peacekeeping camp. “This bill could go a long way toward correcting some of the problems with government transparency and effectiveness in the Haiti relief effort,� said Mark Weisbrot, co-director of the Washingtonbased Center for Economic and Policy Research. “It is a step in the right direction if U.S. taxpayer dollars are to be used in a way that will benefit the

See Disasters, page 47

those thinking of conceiving are advised to wait a year after undergoing radiation).

So the question of how to deal with thycarry risks. PTU, in fact, is almost never used because of its side effects, and methimazole roid dysfunction in pregnancy is a delicate isn’t always recommended as a long-term dance between two sets of risks. Research treatment option, especially if the hyperthy- seems to show that mild thyroid disorders roidism is severe. (In 20 percent to 30 per- can be managed during pregnancy with careful monitoring, only using cent of cases, Graves goes medication if the condition into remission after about starts to get out of control.

12 to 18 months, although Regardless of pregnancy, it can return.) Beta-blockers anyone who suspects their are often prescribed to conthyroid is out of whack should trol heart symptoms, but see their doctor to get their they do not address the blood tested. Hyperthyroidism underlying disease. can cause serious complicaBeyond medication, the tions if left untreated, includonly two other treatments ing heart failure and osteopofor hyperthyroidism are surrosis.The thyroid steers a range gery to remove the thyroid Photo: NIH of important functions in the and radiation to kill it — body, so when it’s not running with the latter more com- The thyroid, a butterflysmoothly — whether it’s gone monly used in the U.S., while shaped gland in the neck, surgery is the treatment of plays a major role in regulat- into overdrive or slowed down — the breakdown can have a choice in Europe. Both meth- ing the body’s metabolism. profound impact on your ods usually render the patient hypothyroid, which is more easily treated health and wellbeing. with thyroid hormone replacement drugs.

Neither surgery nor radiation, though, is Gina Shaw is the medical writer for The recommended for pregnant women (and Washington Diplomat.

Continued from previous page

The Washington Diplomat

January 2015

EDUCATION ■ a special section of the Washington diplomat

■ January 2015

FOOD FOR THOUGHT W

hen UNESCo singles out

your country’s gastronomy as a

“world intangible heritage,” then food is no laughing matter. the French take eating seriously and consider it to be a sacred piece of their national identity that should be preserved and passed on to future generations — both at home and in school.

For Americans, food is also a cherished tradition, although it has a more conflicted identity in a nation struggling with rising rates of obesity.

Continued on next page

French, U.S. School Officials Team Up for Healthy Eating

by sarah Alaoui

Photo: AlBErto MASNoVo / FotoliA

January 2015

EDUCATION

The Washington Diplomat Page17

Continued from previous page Perhaps nowhere is the fight against obesity playing out more prominently than in school cafeterias, where politicians, parents and administrators have been engaged in a fierce debate over how to offer healthy meals for students. And while the debate is largely local, it has taken on international relevance.

From Oct. 13 to 15, a delegation of school officials from New York, Dallas, Miami and Chicago — members of the Urban School Food Alliance — traveled to Paris to see how cafeteria food is dished out on the other side of the Atlantic.

“In France, our culinary culture is very important to us. We focus on transmitting this model to future generations,” said Catherine Rogy, deputy counselor for agriculture at the Embassy of France in D.C. The visit was the first major exchange in a new partnership signed in September 2013 between the New York City Department of Education’s SchoolFood initiative and the French Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Forestry to encourage officials from both countries to exchange ideas and experiences on everything from promoting healthy eating to teaching children about the flavors and origin of their food.

A few months before the partnership was signed, SchoolFood had announced the creation of the Urban School Food Alliance (USFA), synchronizing school nutrition priorities in six of America’s largest school districts: New York City, Los Angeles, Chicago, Miami, Orlando and Dallas.The districts decided to coordinate bulk item purchases to keep their food costs low while still producing fresh and healthy school meals, tackling the fundamental challenge of cafeteria eating: how — Eric Goldstein to boost nutrition while keeping costs chief executive officer of the Urban School Food Alliance down.

“France is viewed as one of the premier food cultures of the world,” said USFA Chief Executive Officer Eric Goldstein.

“This is systematically achieved through the education of their youth as well as the norms set by the society as a whole.”

USFA administrators dived headfirst into the French approach to food with a visit to the French Ministry of Agriculture, where they received a briefing on the country’s

“France is viewed as one of the premier food cultures of the world….

Working together will allow us to be a part of the global conversation around meals offered to our students.”

Photo: Cheick Saidou from the Ministry of Agriculture (MinAgri.fr)

An American delegation of officials from the Urban School Food Alliance recently visited Paris as part of a partnership between the New York City Department of Education’s SchoolFood initiative and the French Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Forestry to exchange ideas on everything from promoting healthy eating to teaching children about the flavors and origin of their food.

National Program for Food. Again, with France’s culinary heritage central to the thinking process, the program’s goal is to connect the food chain by rebuilding links between food producers, products and consumers. The program encompasses all spaces — from school cafeterias to hospitals to prisons — and stays true to the motto of “eating well is everyone’s business.”

Urban School Food Alliance representatives were then taken to see the program in action. At the Inter-Branch Association of the Fresh Fruit and Vegetable Industry, the Americans were introduced to “Fruit at Recess,” a voluntary initiative launched in 2008.

“This program has had an impact on entire families. Bit by bit, we introduced new fruits and vegetables to students at recess time in areas where parents don’t have many resources or don’t buy much produce,” said Rogy. “The kids went home and were excited to tell their parents about the apricot or pear they had at recess, and this encouraged parents to start buying them at home.”

The delegation also learned about how France’s National Program for Food promotes pleasure and wellness in school cafeterias.The Americans traveled to an elementary school in the town of Roissy-en-Brie to participate in “Taste Education” classes, which encourage kids to try new kinds of food and better articulate different feelings and impressions with each new taste.This early enculturation is designed to help them develop healthy eating habits later on as adults.

The final day of the visit was spent learning about the “Have Fun at the Cafeteria”

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EDUCATION

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January 2015

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Photo: Cheick Saidou from the Ministry of Agriculture (MinAgri.fr)

middle school program in the Picardy region where it was piloted before being adopted at the national level. The initiative is almost a microcosm of France’s broader Food Program and aims to connect the chain of food, producers, cooks and consumers at the cafeteria level. The USFA delegation sat down with around 100 stakeholders, including local council members and graduates of the food program, to share experiences and address successes and challenges. “We have really enjoyed learning [about] the French way of [emphasizing] taste and taking pleasure in food and we want to bring our expertise in managing very large nutrition programs in urban schools [to this partnership],� said Penny Parham, director of nutrition for Miami-Dade County Public Schools.

While the idea of eating balanced, wholesome meals certainly matters to the French, how they eat and how they feel about what they eat seem to be just as important to the overall experience. Eating

An American delegation of school officials engages in a roundtable discussion at France’s General Directorate for Food to learn more about the French approach to cafeteria food.

is a daily ritual, not a chore. “The French educate children to have fun when they eat, to take pleasure when they eat.They sit down, take their time and when they have a meal, they eat with their friends,� said Rogy.“It’s not about counting calories.�

The French focus on the pleasure of eating well was emphasized during the U.S. visit. For example, the food curriculum is presented through positive language — instead of “don’t eat too much fast food,� children will instead be introduced to what they in fact should be eating. “We try to avoid words that forbid,� said Rogy. “We use positive words and this helps with positive food habits.�

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“With the Food Programthis in France, we try about to hold on to our old eating habits so that tougher dietary standards for school lunches obesity, which has more families can eat together — for example, at and curb childhood >[ i]Z VY ^h XdggZXi h^\c VcY [Vm id/ (%& .)."%%+* cZZYh X]Vc\Zh least enjoy breakfast without looking at the than doubled among American children and TV,” she said. “As families work more and quadrupled in adolescents.

I]Z LVh]^c\idc 9^eadbVi (%& .(("(**' Through the Healthy, Hungry-free Kids Act become more busy, they tend to eat in front of the TV and other habits like that. This is of 2010, heavily advocated by first lady 6eegdkZY TTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT Michelle Obama, the U.S. Department of about changing family trends.”

The school nutrition partnership between Agriculture developed new standards for 8]Vc\Zh TTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT France and New York City partly stemmed school meals — the first major changes of TTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT from a discussion about the Obama adminis- their kind in 15 years. The idea was for chiltration’s Healthy, Hunger-Free Kids Act.When French Minister for Agrifood Industries See cAfEtEriA, page 24

Continued from previous page

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EDUCATION

January 2015

[ diplomacy ]

Future Diplomats Maltese Official Raises Profile of U.K. Diplomacy Academy

Photo: Larry Luxner

A

by Larry Luxner

Joseph Mifsud, a Maltese diplomat, leads the London Academy of Diplomacy.

s a former top official at Malta’s Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Joseph Mifsud was a key member of the team that negotiated his tiny nation’s entry into the European Union. With only 420,000 inhabitants, Malta — a Mediterranean island twice the size of Washington, D.C. — is the smallest of the EU’s 28 states.

Ten years later, the multilingual Maltese diplomat has taken on a new challenge: to raise the profile of the London Academy of Diplomacy (LAD), a venerable institution located on Middlesex Street in the heart of London that’s home to some 150 students hailing from 50 nations.

“LAD is considered one of the best diplomatic academies in the world.

We form part of the International Forum on Diplomatic Training,” Mifsud explained.“Besides teaching foreign languages, we teach how to be flexible in thinking, how to engage with the business community and how to act at different levels, from the highest level of diplomacy to more mundane people-to-people skills, as well as the ability to think strategically and geopolitically.”

Mifsud, 54, grew up in Malta and was educated at Italy’s University of

Padua as well as Queen’s University in Belfast, Northern Ireland. He speaks nine languages: Maltese, English, Arabic, French, Spanish, Italian, Portuguese, Russian and Slovenian.

He spoke to The Washington Diplomat during a mid-November visit to the nation’s capital, following a lecture at American University on the topic of “Diplomacy and Development in a Global Environment.” Mifsud’s visit was sponsored by AU’s Program on International Organizations, Law and Diplomacy, in collaboration with the Organization of American States.

For the past two years, Mifsud has been director of LAD, which is affiliated with Scotland’s University of Stirling. LAD offers specialized courses in diplomacy, security studies, business and international trade.

“Diplomacy has to engage normal people,” Mifsud said. “For many years, the kind of training we’ve had for diplomats was to help them engage with their counterparts, the just-in-case kind. But we need just-intime skills, too. That means extremely good technology, a critical mind, being geopolitically attuned and having the ability to think outside the

EDUCATION

January 2015

Continued on next page

The Washington Diplomat Page21

Continued from previous page

Open House Date: Wed., Jan. 14 9:30 am

box, to be able to take decisions you might have to justify. Some diplomats do not take decisions.”

All courses are taught in English, with advanced training in the five other official working languages of the United Nations: Arabic, Chinese, French, Russian and Spanish.

“I wouldn’t send an ambassador to represent my country if he or she doesn’t speak the language of the host country,” said Mifsud.“In Brussels, all the ambassadors I know speak either English or French, plus a third language.”

LAD has 36 faculty members, many of them former diplomats. The school accepts 150 students each academic year — in September and January — and its master’s programs can be completed full time in one year or part time in two years. Classes are held mainly in the evenings and weekends, with online courses also available so that students can complete their studies overseas, if required. LAD also offers a three-year doctor of diplomacy degree, the first of its kind in the world.

But not all learning takes place in the classroom. LAD arranges visits to the Houses of Parliament, the Commonwealth Secretariat and business organizations in London. Study tours also take students to The Hague, the European Parliament, NATO, EU headquarters and the United Nations.

Tuition runs £14,000 (about $22,000) per year for foreign students, and £9,500 (about $14,900) for citizens of the U.K. and other EU member countries.

“LAD is a foundation, and funding comes from tuition,” Mifsud said.“We do not accept any corporate funds. We don’t even accept national grants.”

Mifsud says he’s currently training diplomats from South Sudan, the world’s newest country; he’s also worked with diplomats from Libya, Iraq and Afghanistan. Of the 88 students who graduated last April, 17 have since become ambassadors.

“We train most of the people who are going to become diplomats,” said Mifsud, noting that the London-based ambassadors of Angola and Yemen — Miguel Gaspar Fernandes Neto and Abdulla Ali Al-Radhi, respectively — are currently students at LAD. In 2012, LAD received the Diplomat Magazine’s “Diplomat of the Year” award for distinguished contributions to diplomacy in London.

“I come from an academic diplomatic track and have been working in international education for years. My expertise is using education in an international context to bring people together,” Mifsud said. “The instruments of diplomacy today are very different from the instruments of diplomacy in the past.”

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EDUCATION

The Washington Diplomat

January 2015

“These days, the role of ambassadors has changed considerably…. But still, many embassies are given £1,000 of investment and their government expects £100,000 in return.”

— Joseph Mifsud, director of the London Academy of Diplomacy and philosophy. Today, they need to be fluent in economic relations and public diplomacy. Diplomats still primarily serve as government liaisons, but their roles have expanded and they’re expected to do more, with less.

“These days, the role of ambassadors has changed considerably,” Mifsud said.

“They use Twitter and social media.

They’ve become much closer to the political and business class. But still, many embassies are given £1,000 of investment and their government expects £100,000 in return. So we try to give students language skills and intercultural dialogue skills, as well as the possibility of expanding their critical thinking, besides the normal foreign policy courses.”

He added: “Many ambassadors spend their time doing economic diplomacy, meeting businessmen. But branding is also extremely important. Ambassadors must be able to project a good image for their country.”

Among other things, Mifsud spent five years in Slovenia as president of the EuroMediterranean University. He’s now help-

ing train Albanian diplomats in their efforts to gain EU membership for the once-communist country. He’s also organizing an upcoming symposium on the threat of Islamic extremism in Europe — specifically on jihadists returning from the religious and ethnic battles now being waged in Iraq and Syria.

Asked who his role models are, Mifsud replied: former Secretary of State Henry Kissinger, whom he called “a fantastic diplomat,” and Martti Ahtisaari, a former president of Finland who won the 2008 Nobel Peace Prize for his work in resolving conflicts around the world, from Namibia to Kosovo to Indonesia.

“We’re not working anymore in the unipolar or multipolar world. Now we’re in the heteropolar world. What is OK today might not be OK tomorrow. Even alliances are changing quickly, because civil society and non-state actors are extremely important,” Mifsud said. “I believe the pathway to peace is through diplomacy.”

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Cafeteria dren to find the same healthy variety of foods in their school cafeteria that they may already have at home: less fat, salt and sugar and more fruits and vegetables. Through the measure, depending on their eligibility, students in low-income can receive free breakfast and lunch.

Michelle Obama’s campaign has sparked a political backlash among schools resistant to change and mandates from the federal government; food companies who profit off the current cafeteria system; and even kids, who aren’t exactly keen to switch out potato chips for cauliflower.

Before last year’s Thanksgiving holiday, disgruntled students in the U.S. took to Twitter to share sarcastic photos of unappealing-looking school lunches with the trending hashtag #thanksMichelleObama.While the USDA maintains that most cafeteria options are not as bad as the photos of mysterious mushy substances seem to suggest, there is clearly room for improvement.

And as much as local school districts despise ceding ground to the federal government — let alone taking advice from a foreign power — perhaps they could learn a lesson from the French, whose child obesity rates will likely remain below 10 percent over the next decade.

Following the successful first visit of the partnership between the Urban School Food Alliance and France, there will be further follow-up to explore how these exchanges could be implemented into concrete programs. For their part, the French are particularly interested in the U.S. School Breakfast Program, which was first launched in the 1960s and provided categorical grants to serve breakfast in schools where students were in “severe need” or had to travel long distances to get to the classroom. Now, French school administrators are realizing that more and more children are arriving to school without having eaten a proper breakfast and are exploring ways to tackle this in their own cafeterias.

The Urban School Food Alliance’s Goldstein said that both sides can learn from each other.

“Working together will allow us to be a part of the global conversation around meals offered to our students,” he said. “These conversations and sharing opportunities will allow us to counterbalance some of the negative food behaviors that an ‘American diet’ is promoting.”

Sarah Alaoui (@musingsdiffused) is a contributing writer for The Washington Diplomat.

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January 2015

&

T R A V E L &

HOTELS ■ a special section of the Washington diplomat

■ January 2015

ABOVE BEYOND

Little Extras Go Long Way to Help Hotels Stand Out Photo: BEACoN hotEl

Beacon Hotel & Corporate Headquarters

by stephanie Kanowiz

W

ith almost 30,000 hotel rooms within Washington’s

borders, hoteliers looking to differentiate themselves

the bathroom. to attract some of the millions of visitors who come to

have their work cut out for them. Besides location and

the nation’s capital — a record 19 million in 2013, to be

brand recognition, perhaps one of the best ways they can

precise, according to Destination DC, which markets the

rise above the rest is through the amenities they offer. And

city as a choice locale — hotels go all out. here’s a look at

we’re not talking about brand-name soap and shampoo in

some of the high-end enticements.

Continued on next page

January 2015

TRAVEL & HOTELS

The Washington Diplomat

25

Continued from previous page

tHe rItZ-carlton, WasHInGton d.c.

1150 22nd st., nW A name synonymous with luxury, the Ritz stands out in the hospitality crowd by wowing guests on arrival by providing them with a slice of home.

“We spend a lot of time customizing amenities,” said Kate MacInnis, area director of diplomatic and international sales.“We really focus on the culture.”

For example, if the guest is from Japan, the hotel provides menus in Japanese, a welcome amenity with tea and a kettle, and a cherry blossom-inspired sweet. It will also subscribe to TV channels and newspapers from guests’ homelands.

“We try to get as much information ahead so it’s a smooth and seamless visit,” MacInnis said. “It’s not just trying to have blanket amenities. Everything is thought out.”

It wasn’t always this way. Guests used to get fruit and water on arrival until hotel workers noticed that sometimes the welcome tray went untouched. Now hotel staff are in close contact with guests before they arrive to ensure they have their favorite treats on hand.

“For a Middle Eastern guest, their expectation is to have a large fruit presentation, but not everyone likes to have a huge thing of fruit upon their Photo: BEACoN hotEl arrival,” MacInnis said.“Maybe they just the Beacon hotel & Corporate headquarters offers its guests individualized packages. want their favorite energy bar and infused water. Sometimes less is room because most of the business conducted in the suites is diplomatic in nature and more.” requires space for meetings.

Overall, eating habits have changed.

Photo: ritZ-CArltoN “We also made sure the suites have at least one bilateral seating arrangement,” she said.

That’s led the hotel to revamp its in“There are two equal chairs so that if someone is coming with a one-on-one — often you room offerings — a process that’s the ritz-carlton learns about its guests beforehand would see the president in the Oval Office by the fireplace and you’d see one sitting one about two-thirds of the way done, to tailor the amenities it offers to them. side and one sitting on the other in the same type of chair — we make sure we have that MacInnis noted.

Additionally, health-conscious guests have access to the adjacent Equinox Sports Club, a type of arrangement in each suite as well.” popular big-box gym that offers state-of-the-art weight training and cardio machines in addition to popular classes such as group cycling. For more outdoorsy workouts, the hotel has capella WasHInGton d.c., GeorGetoWn a morning jogging station at the entrance outfitted with towels, water, energy bars and jog- 1050 31st st., nW ging maps.

Its founding father, Horst Schulze, was president and chief operating officer of the RitzThe hotel recently renovated its three suites based on staff observations and guest feedCarlton Hotel Company, so it should come as no surprise that the Capella brand is built on back. One notable change, MacInnis said, is ensuring guests have ample seating in the living NOTE: Althoughofevery effortA is made is free of mistakes in spelling and a philosophy lavishness. newer kidtoonassure the D.C.your hotelad block, having opened in April content it is ultimately up to the customer to make the final proof.

2013, the 49-room Georgetown Capella is staffed by workers who are eager to help.

“We wanted to be able to offer something that had not been seen in the marketplace or The first two faxed changes will be made at no cost to the advertiser, subsequent changes experienced by the luxury traveler, ” said Michael salesfaxed and marwill Katigbak, be billedthe at hotel’s a ratedirector of $75ofper alteration. Signed ads are considered approved. keting.

It surveyed travelers and this developed a four- Mark any changes to your ad.

Please check ad carefully. pronged philosophy: exclusivity, experiences, loyalty and service.

If the ad isThe correct signtoand fax to:is(301) 949-0065 needs changes first step exclusivity keeping the hotels small, Katigbak said.

D.C. ’ s Capella is one ❏ 1 Year 12 issues - $29 The Washington room shy ofDiplomat the brand’s usual 50(301) to 100933-3552 rooms.

“That really allows us to create a personalized ❏ 2 Years 24 issues - $49 experience to the guest, create one-to-one __________________________________________________________ As the flagship newspaper of the diplomatic community, each issue regularly features in-depth, Approved opportunities for service and allow our service Changesprofessionals ___________________________________________________________ exclusive interviews with foreign ambassadors as well as U.S. and foreign heads of state. The Photo: roBErt rECk / CAPEllA to really make a connection with Washington Diplomat also has incisive news stories on the latest developments in international the guests,” he said. ___________________________________________________________________ the capella in georgetown offers an intimate Keeping parts of the building off-limits to experience. affairs, business, diplomacy and other timely topics. Our monthly culture section offers reviews non-guests is another way Capella helps guests ranging from art and photography exhibits to film, theater and dining and our Diplomatic Spotlight feel special. Its Living Room is a cozy space with couches, a marble fireplace and a chandesection offers a glimpse into the busy Washington social scene. Don't miss out... subscribe today. lier from the French Embassy where guests can hold informal business meetings or families Name ________________________________________________________________ can play Scrabble after a day of sightseeing.The rooftop bar and lounge, including the pool, are also available only to guests.

Company Name_________________________________________________________

subscribe now Street _______________________________________________________________ City ____________________________________________________________________ State _______________________________ Zip Code __________________________ Telephone: Day ____________________ Evening ____________________________ Method of payment: Visa

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1310 Wisconsin Avenue, NW Washington, DC 20007 (202) 333-8900 | Fax (202) 333-8308

www.georgetowninn.com

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The Washington Diplomat

call (301) 933-3552.

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January 2015

“We try to get as much information ahead so it’s a smooth and seamless visit‌. It’s not just trying to have blanket amenities.

Everything is thought out.�

When Welcoming the Diplomatic Community The Choices Are Clear

— Kate MacInnis, director of sales and marketing for the Capella Washington At Capella, creating experiences means working with local entities on unique opportunities. For example, guests can share a three-course meal in the hotel’s Grill Room restaurant with an astronomer from the University of Maryland, who can speak about the latest developments in the field before going to the rooftop to stargaze using professional-grade equipment.

To usher in winter, the Capella has also crafted signature warm welcome cocktails featuring seasonal ingredients — with warn Darjeeling tea in the Rye Ginger Toddy, freshly grated ginger in the Apple Ginger Fizz and Guayaquil chocolate in the Hot Coco. “Experiences, although not a physical amenity, are something we want our guests to truly take away,� Katigbak said. He wants guests to leave saying, “I had no idea what was supposed to be on my bucket list.�

To encourage loyalty, the hotel offers perks such as free high-bandwidth Wi-Fi throughout the hotel and complimentary in-room non-alcoholic beverages. It will also press up to five garments on arrival at no charge.

The final element — service — is one the hotel places the most weight on by providing guests with personal assistants.They contact guests a week before arrival to find out how they can help with restaurant reservations, theater tickets, transportation — anything.The assistant is available 24 hours a day and checks guests in so they don’t have to queue up at the lobby. “This idea of having someone who is truly connected to you and is accessible to you is so unique from the standpoint of being able to execute this hyper-personalized service,�

Katigbak said.

Beacon Hotel & Corporate Headquarters 1615 Rhode Island Ave., NW Santa might have come and gone, but the Beacon still puts out cookies for every guest, said Hector Torres, the hotel’s general manager and vice president of Capital Hotels & Suites.

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The Washington Diplomat

27

Continued from previous page

BEST WESTERN GEORGETOWN HOTEL & SUITES 1121 New Hampshire Avenue, NW Washington DC 20037

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“Oreo cookies,” he said. “It hits the right spot and is 100 percent consumed by every guest or at least taken home.”

Perhaps that’s because the hotel recognizes that families are an important and significant segment of the leisure market. To that end, the Beacon offers a family package called the Panda Package. It includes entrance to the National Zoo, a coloring book and a stuffed panda.

Amenities evolve over time in response to visitors’ changing preferences,Torres said.

“One of the key changes was not to create pre-made packages,” he said. “Visitors to D.C. are very sophisticated and have clear ideas of what they want to experience, so instead what we have done is create dynamic package options where the visitor can actually create their own package. In doing so, they are able to save significantly and create exactly what they want: flowers, chocolates, wine, dinner, breakfast, Metro passes.”

W WasHInGton d.c.

515 15th st., nW At the W, where guests can gaze at the White House from the rooftop bar, everyone goes home with a piece of Washington, said Zineb Tourougui, W Insider. That can range from local treats, culinary creations and deconstructed cocktails to unique gadgets, limited music and books and one-of-a-kind pieces.

“Many of our amenities include presidential, historic and local themes,”Tourougui said.

“One of our seasonal amenities revolves around the cherry blossoms that are iconic to D.C. It includes a limited-edition book all about the Cherry Blossom Festival, delicious mini cherry tarts, a deconstructed mix-yourown cherry aviation cherry cocktail and, for a nostalgic twist, cherry pop rocks.”

Photo: MANDAriN oriENtAl

the Mandarin oriental’s tai Pan Club is available only to guests in tai Pan Club rooms and signature suites.

At the hotel where the president pardons a turkey or two each Thanksgiving, pets are welcome — very welcome.

“We use many programs and applications to track, monitor and update guests’ preferences, interests, hobbies and even pets’ names,” Tourougui said. “We are all about knowing our guests; this way each time they stay with us, it is catered specifically to what is enjoyable for them and Fido.”

MandarIn orIental, WasHInGton d.c.

1330 MArYlAnd AvE., sW No luxury is left unoffered at the five-star, Asian-inspired Mandarin. “When our housekeepers notice our guests have a book they are reading, they leave them a complimentary Mandarin Oriental, Washington D.C. bookmark,” said Elizabeth Vita-Finzi, hotel manager.

In addition to 347 rooms, 53 suites and a three-bedroom presidential suite, the hotel overlooking the Potomac River also has an indoor heated pool, a private garden and the Forbes four star-rated spa.

Open since May 2004, the hotel addresses amenities continuously. Coming in 2015 is a renovation of the spa, guest rooms, a patio and a new restaurant.

“Over the last 10 years, we continually improve products and services,” Vita-Finzi said. “We will seek from our suppliers the highest-quality products and services at the best value. For example, we’ve noticed a lot of

Page 28

The Washington Diplomat

TRAVEL & HOTELS

our guests enjoy runs around the Tidal Basin and the National Mall. We now greet them at the door with a fresh towel, water and bananas as well as providing a full running map of the area.At check-in, we have always provided tea. Now we change from cold to hot, depending on the seasons, as well as flavors.We have a number of families that stay with us so to delight the ‘younger fans,’ we provide coloring books, bath toys and a number of other child-friendly offerings and menus.”

The Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group operates or has under development 45 hotels in 25 countries, but unique to D.C. is the Tai Pan Club. Named after the high-powered executives and entrepreneurs of 19th-century Hong Kong and China, the club is available only to guests in Tai Pan Club rooms and signature suites. It includes the residential-style Tai Pan Lounge with a bar and library. The club’s outdoor terrace offers views of the Washington Monument. Club access also includes daily breakfast, snacks throughout the day, freeflowing beer and wine each evening and personal concierge service.

Stephanie Kanowitz is a contributing writer for The Washington Diplomat.

Plan Your Entire Weekend.

www.washdiplomat.com

January 2015

culture & arts

■ WWW.WASHDIPLOMAT.COM

DIPLOMATIC SPOUSES

Focus on Others As a nurse, nonprofit founder, insurance exec and the wife of the Moroccan ambassador, Fatiha Bennani Bouhlal has always strived to help others. PAGE 31

entertainment

■ JANUARY 2015

WIDE-RANGING

‘EYE’

“The Traveler’s Eye: Scenes of Asia” at the Arthur M. Sackler shows that the urge to document and memorialize our travels is not just a modern-day phenomenon, as seen in an eclectic range of journeys depicting different times and places in Asia throughout the last five centuries. PAGE 30

PHOTOGRAPHY

Vision, Not Victims Swiss photographer Jean Mohr captures the pain of conflict in “War from the Victims’ Perspective,” which also offers a universal picture of humanity that shows victimhood in all of its complexity. PAGE 32

HISTORY

Beautiful Words The popular nasta’liq form of Persian calligraphy evolved to convey more than words, becoming one of Iran’s most enduring artistic legacies, as seen in a new exhibit at the Sackler Gallery. PAGE 33

“Kawasaki station, from Fifty-three Stations Along the Tokaido (Tokaido Gojusan-tsugi)”

by Utagawa Hiroshige

PHOTO: FREER GALLERY OF ART

DINING

FILM REVIEWS

Casa Luca is home to renowned chef Fabio Trabocchi’s family traditions. PAGE 34

Turkish writer-director Nuri Bilge Ceylan crafts a captivating character study on the Anatolian steppe in “Winter Sleep.” PAGE 36

[ art ]

Postcard from Asia ‘The Traveler’s Eye’ Memorializes a Continent’s Worth of Journeys

by Vanessa H. Larson

F

or many people, travel becomes most meaningful when we are able to capture the experience — through postcards, photos or a blog — to remember it later and share it with others. But the urge to document and memorialize our travels is not just a modern phenomenon.As a major exhibit currently on view at the Arthur M. Sackler Gallery makes clear, travel has long been a theme in art, just as art has frequently served as a medium for recording travel.

A collaborative effort among seven curators,“The Traveler’s Eye: Scenes of Asia” explores representations of travel at different times and places in Asia throughout the last five centuries.The diverse works range from 16th- and 17th-century Chinese and Japanese scrolls depicting traveling merchants, to vintage postcards of the Middle East and Asia, to photographs of people taking everyday modes of transport in late-20th-century India. In all, more than 100 pieces chronicle different travels across the continent, from tourist trips to trade expeditions to pilgrimages.

PHOTOS: FREER GALLERY OF ART / ARTHUR M. SACKLER GALLERY It’s a lot to take in, but the beauty of such an A variety of journeys eclectic array of works is that visitors can approach example, in a shot taken in across Asia — and across the exhibit as a personal journey, from which everyWest Bengal, circa 1988, of time — are depicted one will take away something different. a dirt road plied by trucks, in “The Traveler’s Eye,” “The works are about place, and cultural attitudes motorcyclists, bicyclists and including works such as, from toward travel,” and the different sections are meant people on foot — all framed to highlight contrasting approaches, explains orga- top: “Stations along the Tokaido,” in the rectangle of an autothe postcard “Chinese Girls in nizing curator Debra Diamond. For example, she mobile’s rearview mirror.

Jinrikisha” and “No. 17 – Desert notes that in the Chinese works, “it’s all about the It’s in the last gallery that Transport, Iraq.” process of travel and the experience of travel, and the idea of recording travel you never see their starting point or their ending feels most intimate and perpoint. And then in the Japanese works, it’s all about sonal. A wall of postcards the destinations.” from the “golden age” of The exhibit opens with a pair of multi-panel foldthat medium (late 1800s to early 1900s) includes vintage ing screens, painted in Japan in the 17th century, that panoramas of familiar tourist attractions like Istanbul’s The Traveler’s Eye: Scenes of Asia show the “southern barbarians,” i.e.,Western travelers Hagia Sophia, the Taj Mahal and the Pyramids at Giza, through May 31 — in this case traders and missionaries from Spain coupled with classic Orientalist and colonialist images of Arthur M. Sackler Gallery and Portugal arriving by ship in Japan roughly a cenMiddle Eastern harem ladies, Indian holy men and tury earlier.The details the (unknown) artists chose to Chinese riding in wheelbarrows.

1050 Independence Ave., SW include — the Christian crosses on the ship’s penBut it’s the way some of these postcards have been or more information, please call 633-1000 nants, the almost cartoonish poufy clothing worn by transformed into multilayered documents tracing geoor visit www.asia.si.edu. both men and women, the monks with their rosary graphic trajectories and moments in time that makes beads, the three little dogs on leashes — demonstrate them tangible. There are stamps from around the world, the undeniable foreignness of these visitors in Japanese eyes. postal cancellations with place names and dates, messages written in different lanYet although many viewers are likely to interpret the screens as focusing on the guages, even a child’s crayon scribbling — each layer revealing something about the East-West cultural encounter taking place, the exhibit text explains that the scene path taken by the postcard itself. also follows the Japanese artistic tradition of portraying ships, and it may therefore In the same room is a section on Charles Lang Freer — railroad magnate, museum have primarily conveyed a symbolic message of wealth and prosperity in the era in founder and frequent Asia traveler — and his final trip to China in 1910. Alongside which it was created.

Freer’s notebooks, black-and-white photos taken at Longmen Gorge and personally A later gallery features an exquisite, intricately illustrated Edo period scroll, along annotated Chinese-language map is an unlikely sight: 11 eye-catching rocks that the with woodblock prints by the artists Hiroshige and Hokusai, illustrating well-known collector brought back from the Middle Kingdom and outfitted with custom-built waypoints along the famous Tokaido road that connected Kyoto and Edo. Because wooden stands. access to this route was restricted to merchants, samurai and other officially recog“Here’s this Detroit captain of industry and hard-nosed collector of all kinds of nized travelers, mass-produced prints of the destinations along it became popular magnificent masterpieces of Asian art, going along a river [in China], picking up aspirational media among the middle class, much like travel shows and blogs are rocks and sticking them in his pocket,” said curator David Hogge.“And he used them today. all his life as paperweights.”

These pieces are juxtaposed with a colorful series of images by Indian photograIn the end, it seems, for everyone from merchant to mogul to modern-day backpher Raghubir Singh (1942-99), who spent decades traversing the subcontinent, packer taking photos on Instagram, travel is about what you take away from it. particularly the areas along the Ganges waterway. Here, travel appears not as some rarified pursuit but as an aspect of daily life: There’s an arresting immediacy, for Vanessa H. Larson (@vanessahlarson) is a contributing writer for The Washington Diplomat.

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January 2015

[ diplomatic spouses ]

Helping Hand Moroccan Wife Devotes Time to Nonprofit, Nursing, Insurance

by Gail Scott

A

lthough she relishes being a diplomatic hostess and helping her guests feel at home, Fatiha Bennani Bouhlal of Morocco is also a businesswoman and nonprofit executive who wants to help improve the lives of others, especially children.

“It is such a joy to help others,” said Bennani, wife of Moroccan Ambassador Rachad Bouhlal, in an interview at the country’s stately residence in Potomac, Md. “People find pleasure in different things and this is what gives me pleasure. When I help, I feel thrilled for the person I helped…. I’ve always been there for people … it doesn’t occur to me not to help.”

Bennani is the founder and president of Association Espoir Trait d’Union, a nonprofit in Morocco that helps by digging water wells in remote areas of the North African nation and providing medical assistance to underprivileged children with heart diseases.

“We dig wells in remote areas where children have to walk miles and miles to fetch water elsewhere,” Bennani explained. “We sponsor cardiac surgery and some of the doctors and hospitals donate their time and space.

We also have clinics.”

Others donate wheelchairs, which are modified for those patients who have special needs. “We are changing people’s lives,” she said. “We have brought 310 wheelchairs to Morocco and customized them for each child.”

A nurse and a mother herself, she understands what people need. “Two years ago, we built a center where children can get help doing their homework and learn about computers. It’s a big space so we have room for the girls to practice on sewing machines.They can sell what they sew and keep the money for themselves,” Bennani told us.

During her six years as a nurse, she developed an interest in the operating room, especially neurosurgery and cardiac surgery. That’s when she also thought about going to law school but decided to open her own insurance firm instead.

She began her insurance business in 1991. “It’s a multi-rich firm: maritime, car, work, everything. The time difference is five hours so I keep in touch by e-mail and Skype. What they do in their morning, I look at in my morning and leave them instructions for the next day,” Bennani explained.“When we were [posted] in Germany, it was only a one-hour difference so the distance wasn’t that much. While we were in Europe, I went back home every month.” Now she goes home every two months.

In between, Bennani works to represent her nation alongside her husband.“I am responsible for the image of Morocco,” she said. Although their Maryland residence is far from Embassy Row, she doesn’t mind traveling into the city to have lunch with her husband or attend diplomatic functions.“The miles never keep me from attending something important and what I want to do.”

Before coming to Washington, the Bouhlals were in Germany for seven years and prior to that, he was Morocco’s ambassador to the European Union, Belgium and Luxembourg for three years. He is also a pilot and president of the Rabat Royal Air Club, as well as the founding member of the Wildlife Film Festival of Rabat.

They arrived in Washington three years ago.“America is colorful,” she said.“It is special. No other country is like America. It is a distinguished country.”

Of course, she thinks her homeland — a stable, progressive constitutional monarchy of 33 million located in the Maghreb region of North Africa — is also quite unique. “We are colorful, fascinating and intriguing,” she said. “We are a country that has received people of different religions, cultures and ethnicities.

And we all live in harmony; we have always been a melting pot. Yet we have

January 2015

PHOTO: GAIL SCOTT

Fatiha Bennani Bouhlal — pictured above and at left with her sons and husband, Moroccan Ambassador Rachad Bouhlal, at his White House credentialing ceremony — founded an insurance business and nonprofit in Morocco.

“

been able to keep our separate traditions — our food, our dress, our culture People find pleasure and the way we bring up our children. in different things and this “We are a tight society; your neighbor is like family,” Bennani added. “Morocco is what gives me pleasure. has a very relaxed atmosphere…. If you are a foreigner and you meet someone in the When I help, I feel thrilled for street, you will be invited home for dinner.”

Following through on the traditional the person I helped…. It doesn’t Moroccan hospitality toward strangers, the Bouhlals, shortly after they arrived in 2011, visoccur to me not to help. ited each of their neighbors in their Potomac development of mini-estates and delivered huge — FATIHA BENNANI BOUHLAL plates of Moroccan sweets. “That’s what we do wife of Moroccan Ambassador Rachad Bouhlal at home.”

“Only in Morocco,” she said proudly,“will you find a mosque, a synagogue and a church on the same street. No one will ask you what faith you are.We have always been brought up with respect for others even if different from ourselves. We don’t criticize other people for their faith.”

She added: “Our official languages are Arabic, Berber and French, but many

”

See DIPLOMATIC SPOUSES, page 35 The Washington Diplomat Page 31

[ photography ]

Picture of War Swiss Photographer Presents Nuanced Portrait of Victims

by Sarah Alaoui

O

n many levels, it is a daunting task to photograph victims of war, but it is arguably even more challenging to make their plight accessible to casual observers. How can one wrenching moment frozen in a picture transmit the pain and depth of emotion felt by individuals who’ve experienced conflict, violence and displacement?

At the same time, which moment will surmount a viewer’s discomfort and, instead, evoke understanding?

These sensitive tensions can be felt, and assuaged, in “War from the Victims’ Perspective,” a collection of photographs taken by Swiss photographer Jean Mohr and currently on display at the Woodrow Wilson International Center for Scholars, in conjunction with the Swiss Embassy.

The United Nations counts about 43 million victims of conflict and persecution around the world who have been uprooted from their homes. For a country only about twice the size of Massachusetts, Switzerland has done more than its fair share of humanitarian work to help such individuals. Once known as the land of asylum for everyone from refugees to anarchists, it also birthed the International Committee of the Red Cross (ICRC) in 1863.

The organization was inspired by the experiences of Geneva businessman Swiss photographer Jean Mohr’s exhibition Henry Dunant, who was moved to action by what he saw in Italy in the “War from the Victims’ Perspective” at the wake of the bloody Battle of Solferino. After writing about the suffering of Wilson Center features images such as that soldiers and civilians in “A Memory of Solferino,” Dunant linked visions with of a Greek refugee in 1976 Cyprus, top, and Geneva Society for Public Welfare members to create what came to be Jerusalem in 1979, left. known as the ICRC. “Today … Dunant’s description of the reality of war appears strangely — what are they waiting for? One photo shows a familiar,” said Ambassador of Switzerland Martin Dahinden in remarks at the Mozambican refugee at Sunday mass; she is covering opening of Mohr’s exhibit. “Eyewitness accounts from Syria, the Central her face with her hands and has a child on her back. Is African Republic and South Sudan are uncannily similar to the picture she crying or praying? Another photo shows three painted by Dunant. Technological advances have altered warfare, but children laughing, one of them holding up a deck of Dunant’s pioneering idea has lost none of its relevance and urgency.” cards — are they aware of their situation? But should “War from the Victims’ Perspective” commemorates the 150th anniversatheir challenges render them immune to the lightness ries of the ICRC and the first Geneva Convention in 1864, which called for of youth? improving conditions for the victims of armed conflicts and led to the Beyond the captions telling us these individuals are development of modern-day international humanitarian law. Mohr is no refugees — victims of a political context out of their PHOTOS: © JEAN MOHR / MUSÉE DE L’ELYSÉE stranger to ICRC’s mission, having himself been a delegate for the organizacontrol — we know nothing more about them, nor do tion in addition to helping out with other we necessarily need to. The moments Mohr captures make us humanitarian aid organizations such as War from the Victims’ Perspective: forget that his subjects are victims and instead offer a brief, UNRWA, UNHCR and the World Health unvarnished glimpse of their lives. He excels at breaking down Photographs by Jean Moh Organization. These experiences permeate the barrier between victim and observer so that the only thing his photographs, and although the subjects in through Feb. 6 left is what we have in common: our humanity. the images are so-called “victims,” this label Woodrow Wilson International Center “They invited me not because my approach was more gentle, does not define their existence, as seen for Scholars but because people could identify with it,” explains Mohr in the through Mohr’s camera lens. clip.“You can’t identify with a corpse, but you can identify with Mohr is careful to define himself. A graduat the Ronald Reagan Building and International someone at a well drawing water to take to camp a few kilomeate of business studies, he is not one of those Trade Center, 1300 Pennsylvania Ave., NW ters away.” photographers who explains their talent For more information, please call (202) 745-7900 or His mission is clear: capturing photos that catch people’s through the childhood gift of a camera or an visit www.wilsoncenter.org/article/war-the-victims’attention — long enough to awaken their conscience into innate passion. In a video featured in the perspective-photographs-jean-mohr-exhibit. action, or at least stir a reaction.At Frankfurt’s Photokina photogexhibit, he says,“I’m not a war photographer, raphy fair in 1978, Mohr was awarded the prize for the “photogbecause being a war photographer means being there, taking risks.As a ICRC delegate, I had a long-term program to fulfill and rapher who had most consistently served the cause of human rights.”

“Jean Mohr’s photography reminds us that our work … is always about protectthis was not a magazine’s front-page shock image.”

That Mohr is not focused on shock value is clear in his photographs.The exhibi- ing the victims,” Dahinden said. “The Geneva Conventions seek to uphold human tion features 60 of his works, split into four sections:“Portraits of Exile”;“Temporary dignity even during armed conflicts. This unwavering commitment to human digLandscapes”;“The Children’s Diaspora”; and “Life Goes On.” In one photograph, two nity continues to be at the core of all humanitarian action.”

Greek refugees in Cyprus stand looking at something near the foot of a staircase.

What the women are staring at is unclear, but it is difficult not to feel the suspense Sarah Alaoui (@musingsdiffused) is a contributing writer for The Washington Diplomat.

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January 2015

[ history ]

Art of Writing Persian Calligraphy, Culture Showcased Through Nasta’liq Script

by Sarah Alaoui

W

hile the contemporary focus on Iran is largely clouded by geopolitical bickering, the richness of the country’s culture and history still shines despite the tensions and turbulence of the last few decades. One token of this wealth is the popular nasta’liq form of Persian calligraphy, currently on display in “Nasta’liq: The Genius of Persian Calligraphy” at the Arthur M. Sackler Gallery, which, along with the Freer, has been one of the prime venues for Americans to experience Iran’s artistic contributions.

“Nasta’liq represents one of the most accomplished forms of Persian art, developed at a time of cultural and artistic effervescence in Iran,” said Simon Rettig, exhibition curator and fellow at the Freer and Sackler galleries. “In a sense, it became the visual embodiment of the Persian language enthusiastically embraced from Istanbul to Delhi and from Bukhara to Baghdad.”

More than 20 rarely seen masterworks ranging in date from 1400 to 1600, the height of nasta’liq development, illustrate its evolution from a simple tool of writing poetry to an expression of art. “With sinuous lines, short vertical strokes and an astonishing sense of rhythm, the script was an immediate success and was rapidly adopted throughout the Persian-speaking world from Turkey to India,” according to the Sackler.

The elegant script is a blend of the naskh (meaning “to copy”) and ta’liq (meaning “suspension”) styles of calligraphy and was conceived by Mir Ali Tabrizi (known as such because he lived most of his life in Tabriz, Iran). He was the most famous calligrapher of the Timurid dynasty, a period marked by a renaissance of art and culture.While calligraphy was previously written in Arabic and Turkish script, Tabrizi wanted to develop a Persian alternative.

“The script was specifically created for the Persian language and culture — that’s where the ‘genius’ lies,” said Rettig. “There was a need to visually render the difference between traditional, Koranic scripts and a new medium for Persian culture.”

As such, the new script very rarely appears in Koranic or other religious texts but is used more often to convey classic Persian poetry. Legend has it that Tabrizi invented the new style after the Prophet Muhammad’s cousin and sonin-law, Ali, appeared before him in a dream and guided his hand to replicate the shape and motion of geese wings.

“When you think religion [in this region], you think Islam.When you think Islam, you think Arabic,” said Rettig.“But while nasta’liq belonged to the family of Islamic script, it was used for a specific purpose: Persian literature.”

Calligraphy deeply permeated Persian life, and beautiful writing styles represented a matter of pride and honor. Calligraphers, who were often attached to royal or princely courts, were revered and given celebrity status. The Sackler exhibition showcases four different calligraphers: Mir Ali Tabrizi, Sultan Ali Mashhad, Mir Ali Herat and Mir Imad Hasani. Each appropriated the script and added their own touch through slanting text or other personalized flourishes.

The collection includes the only known signed work by Tabrizi: a 1400 manuscript depicting the romantic tragedy of Khosrow and Shirin, a tale by Persian poet Nizami Ganjavi. Two folios from 15thPHOTOS: FREER GALLERY OF ART century ruler Sultan Husayn Bayqara’s poetry collection are also featured. In addition, a video shows the enduring influence of nasta’liq and how the techniques and tools of nasta’liq calligraphy are still being used by masters of the script today.

“You have this development where you go from a smaller, petite form of script to a larger scale where only one or two couplets are shown on a single page,” said Rettig.“At some point, while the poetry itself is beautiful, what you end up contemplating is the shape of the letters and script.”

In the process, the words took on a deeper meaning, and a device for writing transformed into an artistic tradition.

“When the form prevails over the content, that’s when you know you’ve accomplished something in calligraphy,” said Rettig.“This is unique to nasta’liq.”

PHOTO: ARTHUR M. SACKLER GALLERY

“Nasta’liq: The Genius of Persian Calligraphy” at the Arthur M. Sackler Gallery highlights 25 works ranging in date from 1400 to 1600, including, from top: a folio from a ‘Divan’ by Sultan Husayn Bayqara; an album folio signed by Sultan Ali Mashhadi; and a folio of calligraphy signed by Mir Imad Hasani.

[

Nasta’liq: The Genius of Persian Calligraphy through March 22 until the Persian New Year of Nowruz, which the museum celebrates each year with a family festival and free activities for all ages.

The Arthur M. Sackler Gallery 1050 Independence Ave., SW For more information, please call (202) 633-1000 or visit www.asia.si.edu.

]

Sarah Alaoui (@musingsdiffused) is a contributing writer for The Washington Diplomat.

January 2015

The Washington Diplomat Page 33

[ dining ]

Family Style Trabocchi at Home in Latest Italian Creation, Casa Luca

by Rachel G. Hunt

S

ince returning from New York a few years ago, chef Fabio Trabocchi has been busy doing his part to reestablish the preeminence of Italian cuisine in the D.C. restaurant world, reviving a star that had dimmed with the closing of Galileo and Teatro Goldoni.

His first solo venture, Fiola, which opened in 2011, has garnered numerous accolades and awards.Though less formal than Maestro, the upscale Tysons Corner restaurant that Trabocchi helmed when he earned a James Beard Award for best MidAtlantic chef, Fiola has entered the galaxy of its estimable predecessors. It has matured out of its original trattoria conception into an elegant destination, perfect for celebrating a special event. Fiola’s evolution left empty the niche for a simple, less expensive concept that could fill everyday dining needs (although“everyday”does not imply mundane,somethingTrabocchi’s food can never be accused of being).

To fill the void, Trabocchi opened Casa Luca in the space on New York Avenue left vacant by the premature closing of Againn gastropub.A victim of a neighborhood in transition, Againn was caught between its desire to be a casual eatery while also attracting high-end diners with touches like private scotch lockers. Ultimately, the idea proved unworkable. In opening Casa Luca, Trabocchi avoided the pitfalls of that contradictory approach by rejecting the pretensions that weighted down its predecessor. His formula for the restaurant is based on the Italian osteria, a casual establishment centered around wine and simple food, the kind of restaurant you can bring the family to for Sunday dinner. (We applaud Trabocchi and designer Peter Hapstak’s decision to reuse some of the interior finishings of Againn rather than throwing them in the dump.)

Though Trabocchi designed Casa Luca’s menu to emphasize homey dishes from the Marche region of Italy, it still bears all the hallmarks of his genius. Chef Trabocchi’s restaurants routinely earn superlatives, but what is perhaps most commendable is how he achieves consistently good results in so many different contexts. In his earlier work at Maestro, it was artistry and exotic techniques and ingredients that earned him recognition; at Fiola, it is the delicate balance of tradition and innovation with the best locally sourced ingredients; and at Casa Luca, is it simplicity and directness — food more from the heart than the brain.

Trabocchi’s culinary career began with family. Before he was 10 years old, he was helping his father prepare Sunday dinners at his home in Ancona, in the coastal area of Italy’s central Casa Luca eastern Marche region. Continuing the family 1099 New York Ave., NW tradition that began back in Italy, Trabocchi’s young son, after whom Casa Luca is named, (202) 628-1099 now helps his father in the kitchen. Like his www.casalucadc.com father, he too has showed early promise in the kitchen and is already learning to do his part in Hours: Mon.-Thu., 11:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m.; the family enterprise.

Fri., 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m.; Sat., 5-11 p.m.; Perhaps it is this underlying essence of family Sun., 4-9 p.m. that gives Casa Luca its particular appeal. It is not just the evocative old family pictures on the Starters: $9 - $28 wall, or the design elements borrowed from the Trabocchi family home in Spain. They simply Pastas: $18 - $27 reinforce something more intangible:The dishes Entrées: $28 - $65 at Casa Luca are what an Italian family in Le Desserts: $10 - $25 Marche might be preparing at home. In fact, many of the recipes are the family’s own. The Reservations: Accepted summer gazpacho (available when vine-ripened Dress: Casual local tomatoes and cucumbers are at their peak) is co-owner Maria Trabocchi’s mother’s recipe.

The exceptional pork chops — marinated for a day in orange juice, garlic, rosemary and lemon, then grilled and paired with sausages — is a creation of Giuseppe Trabocchi, the chef’s father.

The emphasis on family carries through to the staff. Trabocchi has a genius for recognizing, encouraging and retaining talent. He has developed his own family of sorts with bright young professionals who worked with him at Maestro and followed him to New York to open Fiamma.

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PHOTO: GREG POWERS

The casual osteria Casa Luca showcases chef Fabio Trabocchi’s homemade family favorites from the Marche region of Italy.

When he opened Fiola, he brought on members of his Fiamma team who are now spread out across his three D.C. restaurants in senior spots.

Another notable aspect about Trabocchi’s three restaurants — in addition to Fiola, he opened the seafood-inspired Fiola Mare around the same time as Casa Luca — is how quickly they come up to full speed after debuting.The fact that his team has been working together for so long probably accounts for this feat.

Trabocchi tapped Erin Clarke to serve as Casa Luca’s chef de cuisine. Classically trained in French cooking, she entered the world of Italian cuisine at Maestro and served in various positions with Trabocchi before her appointment at Casa Luca. The two work well together, and we have not seen any of the false notes that sometimes arise from differing cooking visions.

Casa Luca’s menu is structured to give guests the greatest flexibility with their meals. It offers small bites, salads, cheeses and cured meats, pastas, meat and fish entrées, sides, specials and large dishes to share family style. While each category has only a few options, the total menu offers great variety. And because it is based on available fresh ingredients, Casa Luca’s menu changes frequently, with favorites disappearing and reappearing.

There is something almost magical about the way Trabocchi and Clarke’s kitchen transforms common ingredients into creations that often border on the sublime.This is particularly true with the pasta dishes. The Ravioli San Leo, for example, is simply pasta stuffed with ricotta and wild greens, tossed in a light butter sauce and topped with toasted almonds and fresh herbs. Agnolotti of Kabocha Squash pasta, meanwhile, mixes artichokes, brown butter and Sicilian pistachios (admittedly, the rye flour in the pasta is not a common ingredient in most American kitchens). Simplest of all, the Fusilli Cacio e Pepe consists of just pasta, grated cheese, black pepper, basil and a dollop of burrata, bearing little resemblance to its culinary counterpart macaroni and cheese (which is actually more complicated to make).

Trabocchi grew up on the coast, so not surprisingly all of his restaurants offer masterful fish dishes. A favorite is the child-friendly Milanese preparation of breadcrumbs and lemon that accentuates the fish rather than covering it up.The Tonno “Briaco,” or drunken tuna, is unusual in that the fish is marinated in Madeira for many hours before cooking. Garnished with anchovy and caper and paired with a sweet turnip crema, it is a subtle dish. More robust, the oven-roasted branzino is topped with herbed breadcrumbs and cooked with roasted tomato and peppers and taggiasche olives. The menu also offers a family-style seafood option each night, such as whole grilled fish or fisherman’s polenta.

Dessert is an important component of a Casa Luca meal, and Trabocchi trusted it to another long-time team member, Tom Wellings, whom diners might remember from his January 2015

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work at Restaurant Eve and at Equinox.Wellings serves as the corporate pastry chef for all three Trabocchi restaurants. For the Casa Luca dessert menu, he begins with classic desserts from the Marche region and builds an interesting collection.

Choices range from simple options such as a rustic warm quince tart dressed up with almond cream and vanilla gelato, to a warm hazelnut coffee cake served with caramel gelato and a tiny jug of syrupy vin cotto.The almost decadent Piemontese Gianduia cake — a dense flourless chocolate cake layered with hazelnut chocolate mousse and accompanied by hazelnut chocolate crema — is one of those disappearing desserts: look twice and it’s gone. Wellings’s Zuppa Inglese is a family-style, elegant rendering of the traditional Italian trifle cake. Layers of sponge soaked in bright red, herbal Alchermes liqueu and intense chocolate cream are crowned with delicately toasted meringue.

An important feature of any osteria is the wine. In Italy, after all, many osterias are located in the heart of wine-producing regions. Casa Luca, in fact, is the only place in the city with wines on tap. In addition, it offers a selection of reasonably priced Italian varieties as well as a larger list of international labels. The beverage list also features interesting house cocktails built with classic Italian ingredients. Most are intense and not too sweet, with the exception of the Prima Donna, a heavenly fruity cocktail topped with cloud-like whipped egg whites.

Service at Casa Luca is excellent. Front of the house staff are efficient and the timing is almost January 2015

flawless. Wait staff have substantial knowledge about the food and are happy to engage in conversation about it, without being inappropriately or off-puttingly familiar.

It is interesting to watch the work of professionals when a mistake does happen (and they inevitably do, no matter how well a restaurant is run), as it reveals a lot about the management.

On a recent visit, one of our drinks was delivered to the table next door. The guest looked surprised but pleased, assuming it was a gift from the house. Without missing a beat, the waiter asked how she had liked the drink.

Realizing the drink had not arrived at our table, he apologized, explained what had happened without excuses (out of earshot of the other table) and brought another quickly. The whole transaction was accomplished with no fuss or muss in the well-paced flow of either table’s meal. It was an impressive handling of what could have been an awkward situation by less able staff.

As the city settles into winter, fantasies of leisurely meals in front of cozy fireplaces at rustic family-run inns in the Italian countryside make for pleasant diversions. While Casa Luca cannot transport you to far-off olive groves and vineyards, it can take your taste buds on a culinary adventure to Le Marche while it surrounds you with the warmth and comfort of a family meal — prepared by a chef who has become one of Washington’s own adopted sons.

Rachel G. Hunt is the restaurant reviewer for The Washington Diplomat.

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from page 31 Fatiha Bennani Bouhlal dances with her husband, Moroccan Ambassador Rachad Bouhlal, at the Red Cross Ball in Palm Beach, Fla.

Diplomatic Spouses people also speak Spanish. Others learn English and German.”

The Muslim-majority country is also a tolerant melting pot of religions, in part because of its history as a geographic crossroads and protectorate of Spain and France, having won a protracted independence struggle with France in 1956.

“The Muslims and Jews were chased out of Spain during the Inquisition and, in Morocco, they have coexisted,” Bennani pointed out.“The family court is divided into two: the Jewish and the Muslim. Each has their own judges and lawyers and secular laws for custody, inheritance and divorce.”

The kingdom also boasts a varied landscape, with deserts and rugged mountains that border the waters of the Mediterranean and Atlantic.“In Morocco, you can go ski, surf and hike. North to the south, it is the same country but we have different cuisines, cultures and way of doing things,” she said.

As a mother of two sons, Larbi and Othmane, she misses seeing her boys, but they have a family pact that all four of them meet twice a year: once in December and every summer at their home back in Morocco. Larbi, 31, is working in Montreal for a Zurich insurance

firm with offices in Canada. “He comes here more often to get warm!” she joked. Othmane, 29, is in Paris where he started his own business, Chauffeur Privé. They both studied at McGill University in Canada and speak three languages fluently: Arabic, French and English.

Bennani met her husband in 1980.“I was a friend of his sister and saw him at his sister’s house. We met at a dinner party there and, ‘C’est ça!’ Eight months later we were married. We don’t waste time in Morocco.”

Gail Scott is a contributing writer for The Washington Diplomat.

The Washington Diplomat Page 35

[ film reviews ]

Eye-Opening ‘Sleep’ Turkish Auteur Ceylan at Top of His Game With Latest Character Study

by Ky N. Nguyen

A

[ Page 36

t the 2014 Cannes Film Festival, Turkish writer-director Nuri Bilge Ceylan’s captivating character study “Winter Sleep” claimed the Palme d’Or, the granddaddy festival’s top award, as well as the FIPRESCI (International Federation of Film Critics) Prize. With “Winter Sleep,” Ceylan finally added the penultimate Cannes honor to his already massive collection of Cannes trophies.

Discerning art-house audiences should not scared by the exceptional length of “Winter Sleep,” which is worth viewing throughout its bulging threehour, 16-minute running time. Ceylan is PHOTO: NURI BILGE CEYLAN / ADOPT FILMS, LLC at the top of his game, crafting a densely rewarding feature full of enlightening Aydin (Haluk Bilginer), a former stage actor, emerges from the remarkable and remote luxury resort on the outskirts of Anatolia that he owns, in Nuri Bilge Ceylan’s details. His usual mesmerizing images Palme d’Or-winning film “Winter Sleep.” are complemented by more dialogue than usual for a Ceylan film. He and his a visit from a thuggish debt collector. wife Ebru, a regular collaborator, co-wrote Later, Ilyas’s more obsequious uncle the intelligent screenplay, inspired by Hamdi (Serhat Mustafa Kiliç) seeks to renowned Russian author Anton Chekhov’s defuse the situation by sending his short stories. nephew to seek forgiveness from the Veteran Turkish actor Haluk Bilginer (a landlord, who forces the child to kiss prominent face in Turkish cinema perhaps Aydin’s hand in a humiliating ritual best known to English-speaking audiences demonstrating the power that he is for “Ishtar” and the U.K. television drama not reluctant to casually exercise.

“EastEnders”) commands the screen with a tour-de-force performance depicting the High-Octane ‘Mommy’ restlessness of the never-satisfied protagoThe 2014 Cannes Film Festival’s nist Aydin. In a distant village of central Jury Prize deservedly went to“Mommy,” Anatolia, the aging patriarch lives a prospera uniquely vivid, high-octane film writous if unintended life as the owner of a ten, directed and produced by Frenchmoney-making portfolio of real estate inherCanadian Xavier Dolan (“Tom at the ited from his father, including a boutique Farm”), a 25-year-old filmmaking prodhotel where his family resides, commercial igy who remarkably already had under properties and rental homes etched out of his belt three other films that prethe steppes. miered at Cannes (“LaurenceAnyways,” Not content to rest on his laurels and PHOTO: SHAYNE LAVERDIÈRE / ROADSIDE ATTRACTIONS “Heartbeats,” “I Killed My Mother”). merely live off his substantial passive Pointedly, “Mommy” shared the Jury Ann Dorval, left, and Antoine-Olivier Pilon have a dysfunctional mother-son relationship in xavier income as a landlord, Aydin seeks to mainPrize with “Goodbye to Language,” the tain his glory as a former actor. He writes a Dolan’s “Mommy.” latest film by legendary French-Swiss weekly column for a newspaper, which his newly divorced, bitter sister Necla (Demet Akbag) auteur Jean-Luc Godard, who at 84 years is Dolan’s elder by a whopping 59 years.

One could surmise that Godard, the cinematic pioneer who ushered in the French roundly criticizes for its arrogant tone, and harbors Winter Sleep ambitions to pen a grand volume documenting the New Wave with 1960’s groundbreaking “Breathless,” might be impressed by young (Kis uykusu) history of theater in Turkey. His family members along Dolan’s directorial command. The engrossing mise-en-scène of “Mommy” is enhanced (Turkish and English with subtitles; with the villagers suffer from his imperious yet hazily by assured stylistic flourishes including the adept 196 min.; scope) application of quick-cutting montage sequences indifferent presence.

Mommy Angelika Mosaic Turkish actress Melisa Sözen demands attention for contrasted with slow-motion shots. Dolan’s overall (French and English with subtitles; Angelika Pop-Up at Union Market her searing depiction of the misery of Nihal, Aydin’s fast pacing is fueled by a lively and striking sound139 min.) long-ignored,much younger trophy wife.Disenchanted track.

Opens Fri., Dec. 19 French-Canadian actress Ann Dorval (a regular by the ennui of their privileged lifestyle, she pours her Theater TBA ★★★★★ energies into charity work. But that is not rewarding Dolan player in “Laurence Anyways,” “Heartbeats” Opens in January enough to stop her from contemplating leaving her and “I Killed My Mother”) and teenage actor ★★★★✩ Antoine-Olivier Pilon deliver intoxicating perforhusband, who consistently brushes off her complaints as well as those of others.

Meanwhile, a young boy, Ilyas (Emirhan Doruktutan), throws a rock at Aydin’s car, mances as Diane (a.k.a. “Die”) and her son Steve, shattering a window. While the older man stands back at a safe distance, he observes both of whom have a psychologically complicated relationship that reveals itself to be the ensuing altercation between Hidayet (Ayberk Pekcan), his driver and facilities probably too close to be healthy. Die, a widow and single mother, loves her ADHDmanager, and the lad’s intoxicated father Ismail (Nejat Isler), a tenant who is livid after addled adolescent boy, but he proves to be more than she can handle after his escalat-

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The Washington Diplomat

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January 2015

[

Mr. Turner (English; 149 min.; scope)

]

Theater TBA ing violent acts.

Opens Thu., Dec. 25 They reside in what the movie describes as a “fictional Canada,” a sci★★★★★ ence fiction world set in 2015 in which new legislation eases the process of “Mr. Turner” covers the last third of enabling a parent to institutionalize a Turner’s life, beginning when he is 51 child. An opening sequence shows years old in 1826. Though Turner led a Steve setting fire to his juvenile detennomadic existence, the smart script tion center, which badly burns a fellow focuses on his personal relationships, juvenile delinquent, so he is expelled mostly at home in England. He deeply and must return home. Low-key neighmourns the passing away of his close bor Kyla (Suzanne Clément from Dolan’s father William Turner (finely played by “Laurence Anyways” and “I Killed My Paul Jesson), a former barber who had Mother”), a teacher on medical leave PHOTO: SIMON MEIN / SONY PICTURES CLASSICS abandoned his razors and scissors to because of her severe stuttering, unexserve as his son’s assistant. pectedly proves to be a calming influ- Timothy Spall stars as prolific British painter J.M.W. Turner in the biopic “Mr. Turner.”

The painter’s studio and gallery occuence on both mother and son, which Turner (1775-1851), by most accounts a peculiar artistic py his townhouse in London, maintained by Hannah Danby also benefits her own recovery.

French-Canadian director of photography André Turpin’s genius loved by some, hated by others. Though largely seri- (Dorothy Atkinson), his loving housekeeper and sometimes glowing cinematography is exquisitely placed mostly with- ous in tone, “Mr. Turner” is pretty easy to digest, certainly sexual partner who maintains her loyalty to Turner despite in a non-standard, square 1:1 aspect ratio that is far nar- more accessible for most audiences than some of Leigh’s his general indifference to her. Unbeknownst to Hannah, Turner also leads a private second life living in Chelsea with rower than the regular 1.85:1 and scope 2.35:1 aspect ratios more depressing films, such as “Naked.”

The profound biopic lives and breathes through the the widow Sophia Booth (Marion Bailey). Complicating the in modern movie theaters. Dolan and Turpin’s frame, which is even more compact than the old Academy aspect ratio larger-than-life portrayal of Turner by vivacious British actor mix at times is Hannah’s aunt Sarah Danby (Ruth Sheen), typical in the first half of the 20th century, further com- Timothy Spall (who was also previously stunning when he Turner’s secret former lover and mother of his two illegitipresses the constricted world inhabited by the troubled starred in Leigh’s 1996 Cannes Film Festival Palme d’Or win- mate children.

“Mr. Turner” is Leigh’s third period piece (in addition to characters on screen, particularly in close-ups where they ner “Secrets & Lies”). His highly acclaimed performance ran “Vera Drake” and “Topsy-Turvy”) out of his consistently away with the Best Actor prize at Cannes in 2014. are left with nowhere to hide.

British director of photography Dick Pope’s first foray excellent body of work spanning 12 features. Leigh gets all “Mommy,” Canada’s official submission for the Best Foreign Language Film Academy Award, is a leading con- into digital cinematography with Leigh turns out to be an the details right in “Mr. Turner,” supported with authentic extremely effective medium to convey the luminous paint- work by a top-notch team of department heads, notably tender for an Oscar nomination. ings of Turner, popularly dubbed “the painter of light.” His production design by Suzie Davies, art direction by Dan artistic advances depicting light, color and motion — Taylor, set decoration by Charlotte Watts and costume Larger-Than-Life ‘Mr. Turner’ decades before the birth of motion pictures in the late 19th design by Jacqueline Durran.

British writer-director Mike Leigh’s sensational “Mr. century — could be retrospectively described as cinematic Turner” is a stirring portrait of prolific British painter J.M.W. in nature.

Ky N. Nguyen is the film reviewer for The Washington Diplomat.

Repertory Notes

by Washington Diplomat film reviewer Ky N. Nguyen

Please see International Film Clips on the next page for detailed listings available at press time.

FREER’S 19TH ANNUAL IRANIAN FILM FESTIVAL The perennially popular 19th annual Iranian Film Festival at the Freer Gallery of Art kicks off with Mohammad Rasoulof’s “Manuscripts Don’t Burn” (Fri., Jan. 9, 7 p.m.; Sun., Jan. 11, 2 p.m.); Shahram Mokri’s “Fish & Cat”(Fri., Jan. 16, 7 p.m. with Mokri in person; Sun., Jan. 18, 2 p.m.); Safi Yazdanian’s “What’s the Time in Your World?” (Fri., Jan. 23, 7 p.m.; Sun., Jan. 25, 2 p.m.); and Behnam Behzadi’s “Bending the Rules” (Fri., Jan. 20, 7 p.m.; Sun., Feb. 1, 2 p.m.).

(202) 357-2700, www.asia.si.edu/events/films.asp

NATIONAL GALLERY OF ART In the West Building, German artist and programmer Sylvia Schedelbauer introduces highlights from the 2014 International Short Film Festival Oberhausen: “New International Shorts, program one” (Sat., Jan. 3, 2 p.m.), “New International Shorts, program two” (Sat., Jan. 3, 3:30 p.m.) and “New Artists’ Film and Video” (Sat., Jan. 10, 23 p.m.).

on the Samoan island of Savai’i that Posner digitally restored with Robert’s great-grandson, Finnish filmmaker Sami van Ingen.

The “Discovering Georgian Cinema” series (Jan. 12-March 26), presented with special thanks to the Embassy of Georgia and the Georgian National Film Center, offers films shown at the Embassy of France, the Freer Gallery of Art, the American Film Institute, and the Goethe-Institut.

Screenings at the latter include Peter Rollberg introducing Eldar Shengelaia’s “Blue Mountains (An Unbelievable Story)” (Mon., Jan. 12, 6:30 p.m.); Shengelaia and Tamaz Meliava’s “The White Caravan” (Tue., Jan. 13, 6:30 p.m.); Shengelaia’s “An Unusual Exhibition” (Thu., Jan. 15, 6:30 p.m.); Salomé Jashi’s “Bakhmaro” preceded by Salom; Alexi’s “Felicità” (Mon., Jan. 26, 6:30 p.m.); Nana Ekvtimishvili and Simon Gross’s “In Bloom” preceded by Ekvtimishvili’s “Waiting for Mum” (Tue., Jan. 27, 6:30 p.m.); and Tinatin Gurchiani’s “The Machine Which Makes Everything Disappear” (Thu., Jan. 29, 6:30 p.m.).

AMERICAN FILM INSTITUTE (AFI) SILVER THEATRE Swedish writer-director Ruben Östlund appears in person to discuss a special showing of “Force Majeure” (Thu., Jan. 15, 7:15 p.m.), Un Certain Regard Jury Prize winner at the 2014 Cannes Film Festival and Sweden’s official submission for the Best Foreign Language Film Oscar.

(301) 495-6700, www.afi.com/silver

DCJCC The Washington Jewish Film Festival Year-Round Screenings at the DCJCC include Israel’s “A Place in Heaven” (Tue., Jan.. 6, 7:30 p.m.) and the American documentary “Joachim Prinz: I Shall Not Be Silent” (Tue., Jan. 20, 7:30 p.m.), about the German rabbi, Zionist and Nazi critic who fled Berlin in 1937 for the United States, where he worked as an activist in the American civil rights movement.

(202) 518-9400, www.washingtondcjcc.org/center-for-arts/film/wjffyear-round-/film-pages/Year-Round-Screenings.html

At the National Portrait Gallery, Italian director Marco Bellocchio’s “The Prince of Homberg” (Sat., Jan. 10, 2:30 p.m.) and “The Butterfly’s Dream” (Sat., Jan. 10, 4:30 p.m.) fill a double feature.

Screening at the American University with special gratitude to the Embassy of Brazil, the “Cruzamentos: Contemporary Brazilian Documentary” series (Jan. 23-Feb. 28) displays a selection of documentaries made after the Brazilian military dictatorship was toppled, beginning with Jorge Bodanzky and Orlando Senna’s “Iracema” (Fri., Jan. 23, 7 p.m.), Gabriel Mascaro’s “Housemaids” and João Moreira Salles’s “Santiago” (Sun., Jan. 25, 4:30 p.m.) and Marília Rocha’s “Like Water Through Stone” (Fri., Jan. 30, 7 p.m.).

At the National Archives, Bruce Posner introduces “Restoration: ‘Moana’ with Sound” (Wed., Jan. 14, 7 p.m.); Robert Flaherty’s 1924 film shot

(202) 842-6799, www.nga.gov/content/ngaweb/calendar/film-programs.html

(301) 652-7273, www.landmarktheatres.com/Market/WashingtonDC/ WashingtonDC_Frameset.htm

January 2015

LANDMARK’S BETHESDA ROW January’s filmed opera screening boasts opera director Laurent Pelly ‘s late 2014 Royal Opera House production of Donizetti’s romantic comedy “L’Elisir D’Amore” (Sun., Jan. 18, 11 a.m.).

The Washington Diplomat Page 37

[ film ]

CINEMA LISTING *Unless specific times are listed, please check the theater for times. Theater locations are subject to change.

English Afternoon of a Faun: Tanaquil Le Clercq Directed by Nancy Buirski (U.S., 2014, 91 min.)

The story of prima ballerina Tanaquil Le Clercq is an epic tale of genius, grace, doubt and ultimate tragedy. Arguably the greatest American dancer of the 20th century (and muse to both Jerome Robbins and George Balanchine), she fell victim to polio in her late 20s.

National Gallery of Art Sun., Jan. 4, 11 a.m. and 4 p.m., Sun., Jan. 11, 11 a.m. and 4 p.m.

The Imitation Game Directed by Morten Tyldum (U.K./U.S., 2014, 114 min.)

During the winter of 1952, British authorities entered the home of mathematician, cryptanalyst and war hero Alan Turing (Benedict Cumberbatch, in a stirring performance) to investigate a reported burglary. They instead ended up arresting Turing himself on charges of “gross indecency,” unwittingly incriminating the pioneer of modernday computing.

AFI Silver Theatre Dec. 25 to Jan. 15

Joachim Prinz: I Shall Not Be Silent Directed by Rachel Eskin Fisher and Rachel Nierenberg Pasternak (U.S., 2014, 57 min.)

Footage, archival recordings, interviews with notable contemporaries and family members create a captivating and moving portrait of Joachim Prinz, one of the most outspoken rabbis living under the Nazi regime who went on to become a leading American civil rights activist.

Washington DCJCC Tue., Jan. 20, 7:30 p.m.

Moana: Restoration with Sound Directed by Monica and Robert Flaherty (U.S., 1926/2014, 98 min.)

In 1924, American filmmaker Robert Flaherty journeyed to the Samoan island of Savai’i encumbered with several tons of filmmaking gear to make “Moana,” a narrative film about the island’s way of life. Fifty years later, Flaherty’s youngest daughter Monica, who had traveled with him to Savai’i on the first trip, returned there to record local ambient sounds and traditional songs.

National Gallery of Art Wed., Jan. 14, 7 p.m.

Paddington Directed by Paul King

(U.K./France, 2014, 95 min.)

A young English boy befriends a talking bear he finds at a London train station in this live-action feature based on the series of popular children’s books

by Michael Bond.

Area theaters Opens Fri., Jan. 16

Page 38

The Woman in Black 2 Directed by Tom Harper (U.K., 2014)

Forty years after the first haunting at Eel Marsh House, a group of children evacuated from WWII London arrive, awakening the house’s darkest inhabitant.

Area theaters Opens Fri., Jan. 2

Farsi Bending the Rules Directed by Behnam Behzadi (Iran, 2013, 94 min.)

An amateur theater troupe that has been invited to perform outside Iran.

Most of its young members have lied to their families about where they are going, but when the lead actress tells her father the truth, he forbids her to leave. On the eve of their departure, she and her cohorts struggle with whether to confront or secretly defy him.

Freer Gallery of Art Fri., Jan. 30, 7 p.m.

Sun., Feb. 1, 2 p.m.

Fish & Cat (Mahi va gorbeh) Directed by Shahram Mokri (Iran, 2013, 134 min.)

Based on a true story about a rural Iranian restaurant that served human flesh, the film’s premise has the makings of a Hollywood horror movie, as a group of college students set up camp at a remote lake for the annual kite festival, where, unbeknownst to them, the owners of the only nearby eatery are sizing them up as both customers and potential ingredients — but this is no slasher flick.

Freer Gallery of Art Fri., Jan. 16, 7 p.m., Sun., Jan. 18, 2 p.m.

Manuscripts Don’t Burn (Dast-neveshtehaa nemisoosand) Directed by Mohammad Rasoulof (Iran, 2013, 125 min.)

Made in defiance of a 20-year ban on filmmaking, this incendiary thriller by Mohammad Rasoulof was inspired by the Iranian government’s attempt to murder several prominent writers and intellectuals in 1995, delivering a bold indictment of Iran’s brutal and secretive security apparatus.

Freer Gallery of Art Fri., Jan. 9, 7 p.m., Sun., Jan. 11, 2 p.m.

THE WASHINGTON DIPLOMAT

Georgian In Bloom (Grzeli nateli dgeebi)

Directed by Nana Ekvtimishvili and Simon Gross (Georgia, 2014, 162 min.)

Set in Georgia in the early 1990s, during a time of political turbulence, hardship, breadlines, boredom and casual violence, a boy gives a gun to 14-yearold Natia, who, along with her best friend Eka, make the best of circumstances in which choices are limited, particularly for young women (screens with “Waiting for Mum (Deda)” (Georgia, 2011, 8 min.)).

Goethe-Institut Tue., Jan. 27, 6:30 p.m.

Blue Mountains aka An Unbelievable Story (Tsisperi mtebi aka Daujerebeli ambavil/ Golubye gory) Directed by Eldar Shengelaia (U.S.S.R., 1984, 97 min.)

An inspired satire by one of Georgia’s leading directors, “Blue Mountains” is a disarming and cleverly precise critique of bureaucracy as stifling stasis, set in a publishing house in Tbilisi.

There, a writer and his manuscript submission are all but ignored as the employees, a colorful cast of characters, carry on with their private affairs and outside interests, oblivious to his needs.

Goethe-Institut Mon., Jan. 12, 6:30 p.m.

Bakhmaro Directed by Salomé Jashi (Georgia, 2011, 58 min.)

The title suggests a film about this famous tourist paradise in the mountains of Georgia. The story, however, takes place in locales off the beaten track, like the ornate restaurant where the principal patrons are a tired dog and a handful of immigrants (screens with “Felicità”).

Goethe-Institut Mon., Jan. 26, 6:30 p.m.

Felicità Directed by Salomé Alexi (Georgia, 2009, 30 min.)

Tamara lives and works in Italy, but when her husband in Georgia dies in a car accident, Tamara’s illegal status doesn’t allow her to leave Italy to attend his funeral, so she participates via a long-distance cellular call (screens with “Bakhmaro”).

What’s the Time in Your World?

(Dar donya ye to saat chand ast?)

Goethe-Institut Mon., Jan. 26, 6:30 p.m.

Directed by Safi Yazdanian (Iran, 2014, 101 min.)

The Machine Which Makes Everything Disappear (Manqana, romelic kvelafers gaaqrobs)

The brilliant Leila Hatami stars as a woman who, on a whim, returns to Iran after living in France for two decades.

Upon arriving in her hometown of Rasht, she meets a frame-maker who claims to know her well, but of whom she has no recollection.

Freer Gallery of Art Fri., Jan. 23, 7 p.m., Sat., Jan. 24, 2 p.m.

Directed by Tinatin Gurchiani (Georgia/Germany, 2012, 101 min.)

A film director organizes a casting call for 15- to 23-year-olds, and the results form the basis for a revealing portrait of Georgian society. Interview footage with the youths is combined with vérité seg-

January 2015

ments of the subjects in their daily lives.

“Santiago”).

Goethe-Institut Thu., Jan. 29, 6:30 p.m.

American University Sun., Jan. 25, 4:30 p.m.

The White Caravan (Tetri karavani/ Belyy karavan)

Iracema

Directed by Eldar Shengelaya and Tamaz Meliava (U.S.S.R., 1964, 97 min.)

Martia, an experienced shepherd, is moving his herd to the winter pastures.

But the life of shepherds is mundane and complex to the extent that even a minor mistake is fraught with serious consequences (Georgian and Russian).

Goethe-Institut Tue., Jan. 13, 6:30 p.m.

Hebrew A Place in Heaven Directed by Yossi Madmony (Israel, 2013, 117 min.)

This quasi-Biblical, epic drama spans the history of Israel through 40 years and three wars, yet, like Yossi Madmony’s previous film “Restoration,” at its heart it is about father-son relationships.

Washington DCJCC Tue., Jan. 6, 7:30 p.m.

Italian The Butterfly’s Dream (Il sogno della farfalla) Directed by Marco Bellocchio (Italy/France/Switzerland, 1994, 112 min.)

Massimo, a young classical actor, will speak only when performing on stage.

His family speculates that his motive for this vow of silence in private life must be Massimo’s rebellion against his mother, a writer. One day a director spots Massimo in “The Prince of Homburg” and offers him a part, but the only way he can do that is to convince the mother to write a play about Massimo’s life.

National Gallery of Art Sat., Jan. 10, 4:30 p.m.

The Prince of Homburg (Il principe di Homburg) Directed by Marco Bellocchio (Italy, 1997, 85 min.)

In Marco Bellocchio’s adaptation of Heinrich von Kleist’s 1809 “The Prince of Homburg,” a Prussian officer is tricked during the course of a complex dream on the night before a key battle, causing him to misjudge the timing of his attack. Even so, all is not lost.

National Gallery of Art Sat., Jan. 10, 2:30 p.m.

Portuguese Housemaids (Doméstica) Directed by Gabriel Mascaro (Brazil, 2013, 76 min.)

Directed by Jorge Bodanzky and Orlando Senna (Brazil/W. Germany/France, 1974, 90 min.)

Iracema, a naïve young woman from the Amazon, meets a truck driver and together they take a road trip over the unfinished Trans-Amazon Highway in this landmark of Brazilian cinema.

American University Fri., Jan. 23, 7 p.m.

Like Water Through Stone Directed by Marília Rocha (Brazil, 2009, 85 min.)

In the remote Espinhaço Mountains of Minas Gerais, four young women approach the end of their sheltered and relatively calm adolescence, even as the outside world begins to intrude.

American University Fri., Jan. 30, 7 p.m.

Santiago Directed by João Moreira Salles (Brazil, 2007, 80 min.)

In the early 1990s, João Moreira Salles began filming this portrait of the butler who had served his own family for decades. Salles returned to his project much later (after Santiago’s death), resulting in his complex portrayal of a fascinating man (screens with “Housemaids”).

American University Sun., Jan. 25, 4:30 p.m.

Russian An Unusual Exhibition (Arachveulebrivi gomopena/ Neobyknovennaya vystavka) Directed by Eldar Shengelaia (U.S.S.R., 1968, 96 min.)

Eldar Shengelaia’s reflective, provocative tragi-comedy introduces a sculptor who, in order to feed his family, develops a niche specializing in carving monument tombstones bearing the likeness of the departed.

Goethe-Institut Thu., Jan. 15, 6:30 p.m.

Swedish Force Majeure aka Tourist Directed by Ruben Östlund (Sweden/Denmark/Norway, 2014, 118 min.)

Picture-perfect Swedes Tomas, Ebba and their two kids are enjoying a pleasant family getaway at a French ski resort, until an avalanche strikes. Although everyone walks away unharmed, Tomas’s gut reaction to the incident will shake his marriage to its core.

AFI Silver Theatre Thu., Jan. 15, 7:15 p.m.

Brazil has more domestic workers per capita than any other country. Director Gabriel Mascaro selected seven adolescents from various regions and socioeconomic levels to film their own maid at home for a week (screens with

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EVENTS LISTING **Admission is free unless otherwise noted. All information on event venues can be found on The Diplomat Web site at www.washdiplomat. com. Times and locations are subject to change.

Unless listed, please call venue for specific event times and hours of operation.

this right, breaking with convention and reinforcing the desire for free and genuine expression.

Art Museum of the Americas Through Jan. 11

Degas’s Little Dancer

ART Through Jan. 1

Celebrating 25 Years on Pennsylvania Avenue

To mark the Canadian Embassy’s 25th anniversary, this exhibit of photos, commentary, historical records and objects traces the evolution of Canada’s diplomatic presence in D.C., the history of the embassy at 501 Pennsylvania Avenue, and the many ways in which the embassy reflects and continues to shape the friendship between Canada and the United States.

Embassy of Canada Through Jan. 4

Captain Linnaeus Tripe: Photographer of India and Burma, 1852-1860

In the first major traveling exhibition of photographs by Captain Linnaeus Tripe (1822-1902), some 60 works will include early pictures he took in England as well as the outstanding body of work he produced in India and Burma (now Myanmar) in the 1850s.

National Gallery of Art

“Little Dancer Aged Fourteen” (1878–81), Edgar Degas’s groundbreaking statuette of a young ballerina that caused a sensation at the 1881 impressionist exhibition, takes center stage in an exploration of Degas’s fascination with ballet and his experimental, modern approach to his work.

National Gallery of Art

Neo-Impressionism and the Dream of Realities: Painting, Poetry, Music

With more than 70 paintings and works on paper, this exhibition demonstrates how the neo-impressionists employed stylization and a deliberate orchestration of color to create landscapes and figures that went far beyond observed nature to accentuate subjectivity and an inner world of experience.

Ethnic newspapers, radio, television and online publications have helped millions of immigrants to America become part of their new country while preserving their ties to their native lands. This exhibit tells the dramatic story of how immigrants and minorities used the power of the press to fight for their rights and shape the American experience.

Newseum Through Jan. 4

A Tribute to Anita Reiner

The Phillips Collection hosts a tribute exhibition in memory of Anita Reiner — one of D.C.’s most active art collectors and a longtime friend of the Phillips who passed away Aug. 15, 2013 — with 13 works in a variety of media from Reiner’s wide-ranging and highly personal collection of contemporary art.

The Phillips Collection Through Jan. 9

What We Have Within

Possibilities to externalize and communicate essential aspects of our psyche, beliefs, affiliations or sexual orientations are increasing in modern societies, where freedom of expression is a fundamental right. The artists in this exhibition promote

Page 40

of modernization that accompanied industrialization, towns and cities worldwide have had to face some very significant challenges. City-dwellers, who have always found a number of solutions in crisis situations, are involved in bottom-up urban development, as fruit and vegetable gardens led to other forms of collective cohesion, neighborliness and fair distribution.

Through Jan. 31

Salvatore Scarpitta: Traveler

A fascinating and singular figure in postwar art, Salvatore Scarpitta (1919-2007) created a powerful body of work that ranges from nonobjective abstraction to radical realism.

Martin Karplus: Photographs 1953-2009

Martin Karplus is a chemist, professor emeritus at Harvard University and Nobel laureate who has spent the past 50 years consumed by a passion for documenting humanity in thousands of photographs.

Taken in Europe, Asia and the Americas, his photographs capture societies at pivotal moments in their cultural and economic development in rich Kodachrome color.

Embassy of Austria Through Jan. 19

Magna Carta: Muse and Mentor

“Magna Carta: Muse and Mentor,” which features the Lincoln Cathedral Magna Carta, the great charter of rights and liberties, one of only four surviving copies of the original issue in 1215, celebrates the 800th anniversary of Magna Carta, telling the story of the charter’s creation in England, reinterpretation through the centuries and emergence as an enduring document of constitutional law in the United States.

Library of Congress Thomas Jefferson Building

Contemporary Identities/Invisible Gestures

Showcasing the immense cultural diversity of Iberoamerica through the art of photography, this exhibit features work from artists from 18 different countries of Latin America, Portugal and Spain, centering on the relationship between identity and the self in a digital world.

Mexican Cultural Institute Through Feb. 1

From Neoclassicism to Futurism: Italian Prints and Drawings, 1800–1925

The visual arts in Italy between the first stirrings of nationalistic sentiment and its corruption into Fascism — the long development of the modern Italian state — remained extraordinarily diverse and vital.

The National Gallery of Art has in recent years begun to develop a collection of Italian prints and drawings of this period that is surpassed only by the holdings of Italy’s principal museums.

National Gallery of Art Through Feb. 1

Modern American Prints and Drawings from the Kainen Collection

The final in a series of three exhibitions celebrating the generous bequest of Ruth Cole Kainen, this show explores the first seven decades of 20th-century American art.

Through Feb. 1

From the Library: The Book Illustrations by Romeyn de Hooghe

Modern and Contemporary Art in the Dominican Republic: Works from the Customs Office Collection

National Gallery of Art Jan. 26 to May 15

Hands-On Urbanism.

The Right to Green

The research-based exhibition is dedicated to the history of the idea of appropriating land in urban space. Since the shockwave

Geneva-born photographer Jean Mohr presents images of war, from young refugees to destroyed buildings, to mark the 150th anniversaries of the International Committee of the Red Cross and the 1864 Geneva Convention.

Woodrow Wilson International Center for Scholars Through Feb. 16

El Greco in the National Gallery of Art and Washington-Area Collections: A 400th Anniversary Celebration

On the 400th anniversary of El Greco’s death, the National Gallery of Art — with one of the largest number of the artist’s works in the United States — presents a commemorative exhibition of El Greco’s paintings.

National Museum of Women in the Arts Through May 31

Style in Chinese Landscape Painting: The Yuan Legacy

Landscape painting is one of the most outstanding achievements of Chinese culture. Key styles in this genre emerged during the Yuan dynasty (1279–1368) and are still followed today.

Freer Gallery of Art

This scenic view and historic sketch of 30 artworks showcases the consistency, quality and diversity of the Collection of the Directorate General of Customs, which stands as one of the more important creative spaces in the region.

Art Museum of the Americas Through Feb. 6

War from the Victims’ Perspective: Photographs by Jean Mohr In partnership with the Swiss Embassy,

The Traveler’s Eye: Scenes of Asia

Featuring more than 100 works created over the past five centuries, “The Traveler’s Eye: Scenes of Asia” provides glimpses of travels across the Asian continent, from pilgrimages and research trips to expeditions for trade and tourism.

Arthur M. Sackler Gallery Through June 7

Perspectives: Chiharu Shiota

Performance and installation artist Chiharu Shiota, Japan’s representative at the 56th Venice Biennale in 2015, will recreate a monumental yet intimate work in the Sackler pavilion that amasses personal memories through an accumulation of nearly 400 individual shoes, each with a note from the donor describing lost individuals and past moments.

Arthur M. Sackler Gallery

National Gallery of Art Through June 7 Through Feb. 26

Decoding the Renaissance

During the Renaissance, the art and science of cryptography came into its own.

The advent of printing, development of diplomacy and creation of postal systems created an obsession with encryption that produced some of the period’s most brilliant inventions, most beautiful books and most enduring legacies. This exhibition features the best collection ever assembled of early works on codes and ciphers.

Folger Shakespeare Library Through March 22

Nasta’liq: The Genius of Persian Calligraphy

More than 20 works ranging in date from 1400 to 1600 form the first exhibition of its kind to focus on nasta‛liq, a calligraphic script that developed in the 14th century in Iran and remains one of the most expressive forms of aesthetic refinement in Persian culture to this day.

Arthur M. Sackler Gallery

National Gallery of Art

Through Jan. 25

Artistically gifted and socially well connected, Romeyn de Hooghe (1645–1708) can help us to unravel the complexities of the late Dutch Golden Age, particularly through his vast and varied oeuvre of book illustrations.

Virgin Mary explores the concept of womanhood represented by Mary and the power her image has exerted through time.

Through May 31

Through Jan. 11

Jan. 14 to Feb. 13

One Nation With News for All

To commemorate its rotating presidency of the European Union, Latvia is hosting a series of public events (also see story in this month’s issue).

The program includes the conference “Toward a Transatlantic Strategy for Europe’s East” at the Atlantic Council on Jan. 30; an academic discussion and concert by Peteris Vasks at the George Washington University (Feb. 11) and the Phillips Collection (Feb. 12); a performance by the renowned Latvian National Choir in New York City (April 9 and 11); as well as a contemporary art exhibit in New York through Feb. 28.

Embassy of Austria

En Pie de Foto: Terrorism – A Crime Against Humanity

Through Jan. 4

Latvia Marks EU Presidency

The Phillips Collection

Hirshhorn Museum

Art Museum of the Americas

January 2015

Through Jan. 11

Through Jan. 4

The Foundation for Victims of Terrorism, in collaboration the Permanent Observer Mission of Spain to the OAS, presents the visual and literally exhibition that denounces terrorism as a mass violation of human rights, while at the same time honoring victims by promoting the global effort toward a more just world of freedom from violence.

THE WASHINGTON DIPLOMAT

Through April 12

Days of Endless Time

This exhibit presents 14 installations that offer prismatic vantage points into the suspension and attenuation of time or that create a sense of timelessness, with themes such as escape, solitude, enchantment and the thrall of nature.

Hirshhorn Museum and Sculpture Garden Through April 12

Picturing Mary: Woman, Mother, Idea

For millennia, Mary has been one of the most popular subjects in the history of Western art. This landmark exhibition of more than 60 beautiful depictions of the

Unearthing Arabia: The Archaeological Adventures of Wendell Phillips

Wendell Phillips, a young paleontologist and geologist, headed one of the largest archaeological expeditions to remote South Arabia (present-day Yemen) from 1949 to 1951. Through a selection of unearthed objects as well as film and photography shot by the expedition team, the exhibition highlights Phillips’s key finds, recreates his adventures (and misadventures), and conveys the thrill of discovery on this important great archaeological frontier.

Arthur M. Sackler Gallery Through June 14

Zen, Tea, and Chinese Art in Medieval Japan

Zen Buddhism, tea and ink painting — well-known expressions of Japanese culture — have their roots in Chinese arts and ideas brought to medieval Japan from the late 12th to the 16th century. Chinese and Japanese paintings, lacquer ware and ceramics illuminate this remarkable period of cultural contact and synthesis.

Freer Gallery of Art Through Sept. 13

Chief S.O. Alonge: Photographer to the Royal Court of Benin, Nigeria This retrospective showcases the work of noted Nigerian photographer Chief S.O. Alonge, the first indigenous photographer of the Royal Court of Benin, in conjunction with royal arts from the Benin kingdom.

The collection of historic photographs was captured on Kodak glass-plate negatives and documents more than 50 years of the ritual, pageantry and regalia of the obas (kings), their wives and retainers.

National Museum of African Art

The Washington Diplomat

January 2015

DANCE Jan. 27 to Feb. 1

Mariinsky Ballet

Russia’s Mariinsky Ballet brings a program featuring Hodson’s “Le sacre du printemps” inspired by Nijinsky, Fokine’s “Le Spectre de la Rose” and “The Swan,” as well as Petipa’s Paquita “Grand Pas.” Kennedy Center Opera House

FESTIVALS Sat., Jan. 24, 10 a.m.

Hylton in the Highlands Festival

Spend the day celebrating the rich culture and history of Scotland with performances, exhibits and interactive experiences for all ages. From fiddles and dancing to bagpipes, tea and whisky tastings, there’s something for everyone at the Hylton in the Highlands Festival.

George Mason University Hylton Performing Arts Center

MUSIC Mon., Jan. 19, 7:30 p.m.

Ramsch & Rosen

Amongst old paintings, manuscripts, and between the lines, Julia Lacherstorfer and Simon Zöchbauer rummage for old tunes. A layer of dust carefully wiped away, what they discover usually turns out to be a treasure chest of music that bridges past and present. Tickets are free but registration can be made at acfdc.org.

Embassy of Austria Fri., Jan. 23, 8 p.m.

Budapest Festival Orchestra

In the pantheon of great international orchestras, the Budapest Festival Orchestra (founded in 1983 by Iván Fischer and Zoltán Kocsis) is a relatively young one. Yet

the rich musical tradition of Eastern Europe is evident in every note played by the BFO, which has established itself as one of the world’s leading ensembles. Please call for ticket information.

Music Center at Strathmore Thu., Jan. 29, 7:30 p.m.

Vadim Neselovskyi, Jazz Piano

Ukrainian-born pianist Vadim Neselovskyi was classically trained at conservatories in his native Odessa and in Germany; honed his jazz chops on German jazz stages and at Berklee College of Music; and undertook his apprenticeship around the world as a member of master vibraphonist Gary Burton’s Next Generation Quintet. Please call for ticket information.

Music Center at Strathmore Jan. 29 to 31

National Symphony Orchestra: Fantasy & Fate: Tchaikovsky Masterworks

Praised for her “balanced lyricism and fire” (New York Times), Arabella Steinbacher plays Tchaikovsky’s “Violin Concerto” on a program that also includes the Russian master’s “Symphony No. 4” and tone poem “Fate.” Tickets are $10 to $85.

Kennedy Center Concert Hall Fri., Jan. 30, 8 p.m.

Ladysmith Black Mambazo

Since their groundbreaking 1986 performances on Paul Simon’s “Graceland” album, each year has brought new fame for this vibrant ensemble, whose 2014 album “Live: Singing for Peace Around the World won a Grammy Award” — the group’s fourth. Please call for ticket information.

Music Center at Strathmore

Sat., Jan. 31, 8 p.m.

Through Jan. 4

Through Jan. 11

State Symphony Orchestra of México

Joseph and the Amazing Technicolor Democrat

The Tempest

This esteemed State Symphony Orchestra of México, which has interpreted the classics with great reverence for over 40 years, pays tribute to its Spanish roots with an exquisite performance featuring the works of Enrique Granados, Isaac Albéniz, Manuel de Falla and other great Spanish composers. Tickets are $30 to $50.

George Mason University Center for the Arts

THEATER Through Jan. 1

A Christmas Carol

Acclaimed Washington stage actor Edward Gero returns for the sixth year to play Ebenezer Scrooge in the production the Washington Post hailed as “musically high-spirited” and “infectiously jolly.”

Tickets are $22 to $95.

Ford’s Theatre Through Jan. 4

Famous Puppet Death Scenes

Canada’s Old Trout Puppet Workshop’s “Famous Puppet Death Scenes” is a darkly comedic alternative to more typical seasonal theater fare, featuring a collection of 22 grisly snippets from puppet dramas including “The Ballad of Edward Grue” by Samuel Groanswallow and “The Feverish Heart” by Nordo Frot. Tickets start at $35.

Woolly Mammoth Theatre Company Through Jan. 4

Tim Rice and Andrew Lloyd Webber’s musical about the trials and triumphs of Israel’s favorite son features Broadway stars and “American Idol” sensations, husband-andwife duo Diana DeGarmo and Ace Young.

Tickets are $25 to $155.

The Shakespeare Theatre

Kennedy Center Opera House

Jan. 16 to Feb. 12

Jan. 6 to 11

Starring Vanessa Hudgens, Eric Schaeffer directs a world premiere production of Lerner and Loewe’s musical comedy, where true love between a free-spirited young woman and a wealthy young playboy must overcome the conventions of turn-of-the-century Paris. Tickets are $45 to $145.

The Illusionists

The world’s best-selling magic show comes direct from Broadway. This mindblowing spectacular showcases the talents of seven incredible Illusionists with thrilling and sophisticated magic of unprecedented proportions. Tickets are $39 to $125.

Gigi

Kennedy Center Opera House

Kennedy Center Eisenhower Theater

Jan. 7 to Feb. 22

Jan. 16 to Feb. 22

Choir Boy

For 50 years, the elite boarding school Charles R. Drew Prep has stood by its traditions and prepared young black men to lead. But times and finances have changed, and the pressure on Drew’s legendary gospel choir is high. So when an ambitious and talented student is told to ignore a gay slur to take his place as the choir’s leader, he has to decide who he is and what he’s willing to fight for. Tickets are $44 to $88.

Studio Theatre Through Jan. 11

Beauty and the Beast

Celebrate the 50th anniversary of an American musical classic with this new, inthe-round production of the joyful tale of family, community and life’s unexpected miracles. Tickets are $50 to $99.

In this gothic romance based on the original French tale, a young girl befriends the terrifying beast that holds her captive. This darkly fantastical production illuminates the Beauty’s own secrets and her Beast’s true nature, bringing wonder, magic and seduction to a classic story. Tickets start at $35.

Arena Stage

Synetic Theater

Fiddler on the Roof

Trickery and magic, romance and revenge set the stage for one of Shakespeare’s late masterpieces, in which sprites, goddesses and fools hold court. Please call for ticket prices.

Visit Jordan & The Holy Land

Baskerville: A Sherlock Holmes Mystery

Five actors deftly portray more than 40 characters in this fast-paced, comedic retelling of Sherlock Holmes’s most notorious case, “The Hound of the Baskervilles,” by the award-winning mastermind of mayhem, Ken Ludwig.

Tickets are $45 to $90.

Arena Stage Through Jan. 25

Diner

Christmas, Baltimore, 1959: A circle of childhood friends reunites for the upcoming wedding of one of them.

From the comfort of their all-night diner, the men, now in their early-twenties, confront the realities of adulthood: marriage, careers, money and the e ver-mysterious opposite sex. Please call for ticket prices.

Signature Theatre

Rich Culture

Religious History

Visit the crown jewel of the Middle East, the Kingdom of Jordan. One of the most hospitable countries in the world, Jordan is home to one of the wonders of the world at Petra. Walk in the footsteps of Moses at Mount Nebo or see the site where Jesus was said to be baptized at Al-Maghtas. Camp with Bedouins in the vast valley of Wadi Rum, where you’ll enjoy traditional Jordanian food and dancing. Experience the stunning waters of Aqaba, which features unrivaled scuba diving and some of the most striking coral reefs in the world. Visit us as part of a biblical tour of the holy land: Jafa, Tel Aviv, Jerusalem, Nazareth, Tiberias and Bethlehem. Conde Nast calls Jordan “one of the world’s must-see sights.”

At Azure Tours we have spent decades giving tourists, groups and conference organizers the trip of a lifetime in the Kingdom. Whether you want to tour ancient or religious sites, embark on an adventure, enjoy a unique family get-away or organize a conference, we have the knowledge to help you experience the best of Jordan.

Call us at: 011 962 6 566 8970 • 011 962 79 552 6206 www.azure-tours.com • munther.twal@azure-tours.com

January 2015

Extreme Sports

Beautiful Resorts

The Washington Diplomat Page 41

DIPLOMATIC SPOTLIGHT

Photos: UAE Embassy

From left, Ambassador of Guyana Bayney Karran, Permanent Representative of Panama to the Organization of American States Jorge H. Miranda and Ambassador of Venezuela to the OAS Roy Chaderton attend the 48th Barbadian Independence Day reception at the Organization of American States.

U.S. Army Gen. Lloyd Austin III, commander of U.S. Central Command, left, and Ambassador of the United Arab Emirates Yousef Al Otaiba attend the UAE’s 43rd annual National Day reception held at the embassy.

Ambassador of St. Kitts and Nevis Jacinth Lorna Henry-Martin, left, and Ambassador of Antigua and Barbuda Deborah Mae Lovell attend the 48th Barbadian Independence Day reception at the Organization of American States.

From left, Ambassador of Brazil Mauro Vieira, Leila Beale and Ambassador of Barbados and Permanent Representative to the Organization of American States John Beale attend the 48th Barbadian Independence Day reception at the Organization of American States.

January 2015

UAE National Day

Barbadian Independence

From left, Interim Representative of Brazil to the Organization of American States Breno Dias da Costa, Ambassador of Barbados and Permanent Representative to the OAS John Beale and his wife Leila Beale attend a reception celebrating the 48th anniversary of Barbados’s independence at the OAS Aztec Patio.

The Washington Diplomat

From left, Ambassador of Nicaragua Francisco Obadiah Campbell Hooker, Vice President of Communications for the Meridian International Center Monique McSween and her husband Luis V. McSween attend the 48th Barbadian Independence Day reception at the Organization of American States.

From left, Ambassador of Jamaica Stephen Vasciannie, Ambassador of Dominica Hubert Charles and John Gardecki of the Washington International Piano Arts Council attend the 48th Barbadian Independence Day reception at the Organization of American States.

From left, Sheikh Rachid Bin Hamdan Bin Mohamed Al Nahyan, Ambassador of the United Arab Emirates Yousef Al Otaiba, Sheikh Sultan Bin Hamdan Bin Zayed Al Nahyan, and UAE Deputy Chief of Mission Omar Al Shamsi attend the 43rd UAE National Day reception, which featured a “United for a Better Future” program highlighting the strength of U.S.-UAE relations.

Latvian Art From left, Allyson McKithen, senior operations manager for the Ronald Reagan Building and International Trade Center (RRB/ ITC); John Drew, president and CEO of Trade Center Management Associates; Hosai Rashid, RRB/ ITC program manager; Jan Du Plain, RRB/ITC embassy liaison; and Andrew Gelfuso, director of Photo: Kaveh Sadari the RRB/ITC Office of Trade Promotion, attend an exhibit launch at the Ronald Reagan Building honoring artists Aleksejs Naumovs and Kristaps Zarins of the Art Academy of Latvia and celebrating Riga as the 2014 European Capital of Culture.

Czech Visit

From left, Ambassador of Nicaragua Francisco Obadiah Campbell Hooker, Rhoda Septilici of the Washington International Piano Arts Council and Ambassador of Belize and Permanent Representative to the OAS Nestor Mendez attend the 48th Barbadian Independence Day reception at the Organization of American States.

U.S. Vice President Joe Biden, left, welcomes Czech Prime Minister Bohuslav Sobotka to the White House during Sobotka’s recent visit to Washington. photo: www.macciani.cz / czech embassy

IFE Holiday Kick-Off

photos: Institute for education

Founder and CEO of the Institute for Education (IFE) Kathy Kemper, second from right, and her daughter Christina Kemper Valentine, left, welcome Ambassador of Sweden Björn Lyrvall, right, his wife Madeleine and daughter to her home to kick off the holiday season.

From left, Ambassador of Finland Ritva Koukku-Ronde, Ambassador of Bulgaria Elena Poptodorova, Ambassador of Switzerland Martin Dahinden and Ambassador of Belgium Johan Verbeke attend a holiday kick-off party hosted by the Institute for Education (IFE).

From left, Nobuko Sasae, Kelsey Kemper Valentine, Ambassador of Japan Kenichiro Sasae and Jim Valentine attend a holiday kick-off party hosted by the Institute for Education, a nonprofit that works to promote leadership, civility and finding common ground, locally, nationally and in the world community.

From left, founder and CEO of the Institute for Education (IFE) Kathy Kemper, Chief Technology Officer of the U.S. Megan Smith and Kate Howland Behler attend an IFE holiday kick-off party at Kemper’s home.

Finnish Embassy’s 20th

photo: embassy of Finland

photoe: embassy of Finland

Ambassador of Finland Ritva Koukku-Ronde and her husband, Dr. Hidde Ronde, left, welcome Rep. Dan Benishek (R-Mich.) and his wife Judy Benishek to the 20th Jubilee Gala for the Finnish Embassy.

Page 42

From left, Finnish jazz pianist Iiro Rantala, Johannes Weidemüller and drummer Peter Erskine perform at a jazz concert to mark the 20th anniversary of the Finnish Embassy, which, as the first Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) Goldcertified embassy in the United States, is an outstanding example of Finnish environmentally friendly design and clean-tech knowhow.

photo: gail scott

Ambassador of Finland Ritva Koukku-Ronde, left, welcomes her guest of honor, former Finnish President and Nobel Prize Laureate Martti Ahtisaari, to the 20th Jubilee Gala for the Finnish Embassy, an architectural masterpiece and landmark building designed by Finnish architects Mikko Heikkinen and Markku Komonen, and inaugurated in November 1994.

Photo: gail scott

Gitte Wallin Pedersen of the World Bank, left, and Ambassador of Denmark Peter Taksøe-Jensen attend the 20th Jubilee Gala for the Finnish Embassy, called the Jewel of Embassy Row.

The Washington Diplomat

photo: gail scott

Finnish architects Mikko Heikkinen, left, and Markku Komonenwho designed the Finnish Embassy, the first LEED-certified (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) embassy in the United States.

January 2015

State Thanksgiving

From left, Susan Evans, program director at the National Museum of American History; Daniel Gifford, manager of the museum’s advisory committees; and U.S. Protocol Chief Peter Selfridge welcome 200 people, including 60 ambassadors and their families, to Blair House for a traditional Thanksgiving dinner for diplomats hosted by the State Department.

photos: larry luxner

From left, Ambassador of Brazil Mauro Vieira, Leila Beale and Ambassador of Barbados John Beale attend a Thanksgiving dinner at Blair House that included a briefing from America’s protocol chief on the meaning of Thanksgiving.

From left, Ambassador of Lithuania Žygimantas Pavilionis, his wife Lina Pavilioniene, Zane Razāne, Ambassador of Latvia Andris Razāns, Hermanis Razāns and wife of the Latvian ambassador Gunta Razāne attend a State Departmenthosted Thanksgiving dinner at Blair House.

From left, Ambassador of Barbados John Beale, his wife Leila Beale, Ambassador of Kazakhstan Kairat Umarov and Ambassador of Costa Rica Román Macaya attend a State Department-hosted Thanksgiving dinner at Blair House.

Ambassador of Costa Rica Román Macaya, left, and Ambassador of Trinidad and Tobago Neil Parsan attend a State Department-hosted Thanksgiving dinner at Blair House.

America Abroad Media

Photo: Yuri Gripas photo: michael bennett kress photography

photos: gail scott

From left, Dan Cogan, executive director of Impact Partners; acclaimed filmmaker Paul Greengrass, who directed “Captain Phillips”; Geralyn Dreyfous of Impact Partners; Pakistani actress Reema Khan; Saudi journalist Turki Al-Dakhil, and Aaron Lobel, president and founder of America Abroad Media, attend an awards dinner hosted by America Abroad Media, which honored Greengrass, Khan and Al-Dakhil.

From left, Shaista Mahmood, Lynda Webster of the Webster Group and Lala Abdurahimova, wife of the Azerbaijani ambassador, attend the America Abroad Media’s awards dinner, which honored a glamorous Pakistani actress, an acclaimed British film director, an outspoken Saudi journalist and a company that makes hard-hitting documentaries.

Ambassador of Kazakhstan Kairat Umarov, left, and Sultana Hakimi, wife of the Afghan ambassador, attend an awards dinner hosted by America Abroad Media and held at Andrew W. Mellon Auditorium.

Didi Cutler and former President of the Meridian International Center Walter Cutler attend an awards dinner hosted by America Abroad Media, which promotes the free exchange of ideas through the development and dissemination of radio and TV programming from South Asia to the Middle East and Africa.

Oneness-Family School

More than 60 embassies gather at OnenessFamily School in Chevy Chase, Md., to celebrate United Nations Day by carrying their national flag in a Procession of Nations.

EU Partnership From left, Ambassador of Moldova Igor Munteanu; Ambassador of Georgia Archil Gegeshidze; Ambassador of Ukraine Olexander Motsyk; Eric Rubin of the Bureau of European and Eurasian Affairs; President of the German Marshall Fund Karen Donfried; and European Union Ambassador João Vale de Almeida attend a discussion and reception at the EU Delegation to celebrate the signatures of association agreements between the European Union and Moldova, Georgia and Ukraine at the EU Embassy in Washington.

photos: oneness-family school

Ambassador of Uganda Oliver Wonekha, left, and Ambassador of Panama Mario Jaramillo carry their national flags to celebrate OnenessFamily School’s annual United Nations Day program.

From left, Oumar Kane, second counselor of culture for the Embassy of Senegal; Luke Mukupe, second secretary for the Embassy of Sri Lanka; Head of School for Oneness-Family School Andrew Kutt; Numa Mulina; and Ambassador of Papua New Guinea Rupa Mulina attend the United Nations Day reception at Oneness-Family School, one of the area’s largest events for United Nations Day.

From left, Ambassador of Fiji Winston Thompson, Ambassador of Papua New Guinea Rupa Mulina, Numa Mulina, Saudamini Siegrist of UNICEF in New York, Ambassador of Montenegro Srdjan Darmanovic and Ambassador of TimorLeste Domingos Sarmento Alves enjoy the student performances for United Nations Day.

Costa Rica in Space

From left, Costa Rican astronaut Franklin Chang Díaz poses with Román Macaya, Costa Rica’s ambassador to the United States, and Roberto Vittori, the Italian Embassy’s space attaché, during Chang’s recent visit to Washington.

Viennese Ball

Karol Escalante, press and cultural affairs officer at Embassy of Honduras, left, and Varuna Epasinghe, minister at the Embassy of Sri Lanka, attend the annual United Nations Day event at Oneness-Family School in Chevy Chase.

January 2015

Ambassador of Dominica Hubert Charles presents the flag of Dominica at the Oneness-Family School’s celebration for United Nations Day.

Sami Al Ghadban, deputy chief of mission for the Embassy of Libya, left, and Andrew Kutt, founder and head of school for Oneness-Family School, enjoy United Nations Day, when 61 embassies came together to celebrate global unity.

Ambassador of Mauritius Somduth Soborun, left, and Famatta Deline, minister counselor of economics for the Embassy of Liberia, hold their flags during the annual United Nations Day program at Oneness-Family School in Chevy Chase.

photo: larry luxner

Photo: Paolo Galli

From left, pianist Frank Conlon; National Society of Arts and Letters (NSAL) D.C. Chapter President Katherine Carson Kyle; Ambassador of Austria Hans Peter Manz; entertainment chair Frances Berkman; baritone Jonathan Champ; musical theater actress Corrieanne Stein; flutist Laura Kauffman; ball chair John Curd; and entertainment committee members Nancy Dunton and Su Kim Eisenberg attend the sixth annual Viennese Ball hosted NSAL at the Cosmos Club, featuring a Vienneseinspired dinner, dancing and entertainment.

The Washington Diplomat Page 43

DIPLOMATIC SPOTLIGHT

The Washington Diplomat

January 2015 Al Franken Roundtable

International Culture

Photo: Al Teich

National Press Club President Myron Belkind, left, presents the NPC President’s Award for lifetime achievement to Ambassador of South Africa Ebrahim Rasool, who is concluding his posting in D.C.

Swedish Book

Guests turn out to celebrate the National Press Club’s International Cultural Evening, which highlighted the club’s cultural diversity and underscored its international year.

A variety of groups performed at the National Press Club’s International Cultural Evening held at the esteemed organization for journalists.

From left, Tim Cox, chair of Cultural Tourism DC; Jan Du Plain, chair of the National Press Club International Cultural Evening; Allyson McKithen of the Ronald Reagan Building and International Trade Center; and real estate agent Craig Cobine attend the National Press Club’s first-ever International Cultural Evening.

From left, Ambassador of Finland Ritva Koukku-Ronde, Ambassador of Belgium Johan Verbeke, Sen. Al Franken (D-Minn.), wife of the Mexican ambassador Laura Perez Vazquez, Ambassador of Luxembourg Jean-Louis Wolzfeld and Ambassador of Sweden Björn Lyrvall attend an Institute for Education (IFE) INFO Public Policy Roundtable with Franken in the U.S. Capitol.

Justice Ginsburg Tribute

Swedish musician and hip hop artist Timbuktu, left, and Elisabeth Millqvist, the Wanas Foundation’s artistic director, headline a discussion hosted by the Swedish Embassy on engaging younger audiences with contemporary art.

The two Swedes collaborated on the soldout book “Kor kan drömma.”

photos: institute for education

Photo: Gail Scott

From left, Ambassador of Belgium Johan Verbeke, Dr. Amy Geng, Ambassador of Liechtenstein Claudia Fritsche, Supreme Court Justice Ruth Bader Ginsburg, Institute for Education (IFE) founder and CEO Kathy Kemper, John Paul Farmer of Microsoft and Ambassador of Finland Ritva Koukku-Ronde attend an IFE tribute to Justice Ginsburg at the U.S. Supreme Court.

photo: this is america

This Is America in Kazakhstan Dennis Wholey, host of “This Is American & the World,” left, interviews Erlan Idrissov, former ambassador of Kazakhstan to the U.S. and current foreign minister, for an upcoming show.

Wycee Liu of the Chinese Embassy, left, and Jan Donaldson Smith attend a special tribute to Supreme Court Justice Ruth Bader Ginsburg held at the Supreme Court and hosted by the Institute for Education.

Marci Robinson, chair of the Institute for Education (IFE) Board of Stewards, left, and Juliet Eilperin of The Washington Post attend a tribute to Supreme Court Justice Ruth Bader Ginsburg hosted by IFE, a nonprofit that promotes civility and leadership.

Mezzo Soprano Denyce Graves performs with pianist Andrew Harley at a special tribute to Supreme Court Justice Ruth Bader Ginsburg held at the Supreme Court and hosted by the Institute for Education.

photos: institute for education

Norman Ornstein, resident scholar at the American Enterprise Institute, introduces Sen. Al Franken (D-Minn.) at an Institute for Education (IFE) INFO Public Policy Roundtable with Franken in the U.S. Capitol.

From left, former U.S. Solicitor General Theodore Olson, now with Gibson Dunn & Crutcher, and Ambassador of Liechtenstein Claudia Fritsche talk with Supreme Court Justice Ruth Bader Ginsburg at an Institute for Education tribute to her held at the Supreme Court.

White House Presidential Innovation Fellows (PIFs) pose with coach Kathy Kemper of the Institute for Education (IFE) and Sen. Al Franken (D-Minn.) at an IFE INFO Public Policy Roundtable.

Taiwanese National Day

Photo: Katherine Carson Kyle

Cambodian Book Talk Ambassador of Cambodia Hem Heng, center, welcomes award-winning journalist and author Elizabeth Becker, left, and National Society of Arts and Letters D.C. Chapter President Katherine Carson Kyle for a discussion at the Cambodian Embassy on Becker’s book, “Bophana,” the true story of a young woman who became a rare heroine of the Khmer Rouge era.

Page 44

Lyushun Shen, head of the Taipei Economic and Cultural Representative Office (TECRO) in the United States, left, receives a proclamation from Rep. Chris Van Hollen (D-Md.) marking the Republic of China’s 103rd National Day at a celebration held at Twin Oaks Estate.

From left, Lyushun Shen, head of the Taipei Economic and Cultural Representative Office, and his wife join Joseph McCain and Roberta McCain — mother of Sen. John McCain (R-Ariz.) — at Taiwan’s 103rd National Day celebration.

photos: tecro

Guests enjoy a light show and orchestral music at Twin Oaks Estate marking Taiwan’s 103rd National Day celebration.

The Washington Diplomat

Cynthia Brock-Smith, secretary of the District of Columbia, right, presents a congratulatory message to Taipei Economic and Cultural Representative Office Representative Lyushun Shen at the reception marking the 103rd anniversary of the establishment of the Republic of China.

January 2015

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But they are necessary,” Wittig told us. “The Latvians were over-indebted, and then a very courageous government undertook some really wide-ranging reforms. Within a few years, they turned their economy around, managed their debt and became more competitive — and now they’re growing.”

Indeed, Latvia’s GDP grew 4 percent in 2013, but Razāns says this year’s growth will be a little less because “growth in the eurozone countries is stagnating in general.”

While sliding back into recession is always a concern, Russia’s Vladimir Putin is a much bigger threat, in the eyes of the ambassador. Razāns said that Western sanctions slapped against leading figures in Putin’s government, as well as the finance, energy and defense sectors, haven’t really hurt Latvia because only 9 percent of his country’s external trade is with Russia, compared to the EU, which accounts for 70 percent of Latvia’s trade.

“I think the sanctions are really useful,” he said. “The Russian economy is not doing exceptionally well, and the situation is not improving. It’s a matter of principle.As long as there is no appetite in Europe for other means to react, that is the best way to deal with the situation.”

Given Latvia’s sizable Russian minority and heavy dependence on Russian energy, especially gas, Riga may have some reservations about imposing harsher sanctions. If the situation deteriorates, however, the EU should be ready to pile on new and more severe economic penalties against Moscow, Razāns suggested.

“For Ukrainians, this is definitely a difficult moment.At the same time, there is no alternative for Ukraine but to embark on the Baltic way, meaning that Ukraine can only succeed if they introduce reforms to stabilize their economy and strengthen Ukraine from within,” said Razāns. “That would bring it much closer to

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Europe.”

Melanie Mierzejewski, a research analyst with the Latvian Institute of International Affairs, said Latvia should use its upcoming EU presidency to push for the following three policy goals: get the EU to ban sales of all European military equipment and dualuse technology to Russia for two years; engage the governments of Ukraine, Georgia and Moldova on political and economic reforms, which would help these countries fight corruption, develop their small-business sectors and strengthen the democratic roots of political parties; and increase the EU’s engagement with Belarus, which has long been isolated because of the brutal way President Alexander Lukashenko treats political prisoners — an EU policy she says has borne zero results and only driven Belarus closer into the waiting arms of Putin.

“In the months ahead, Latvia will face many tough choices. It will need to balance internal political needs with foreign policy considerations that reflecwt both Latvian national security interests and EU interests,” Mierzejewski wrote. “Rather than taking a firm stand against Russia, Latvia may instead choose to adopt the perspective of Western European countries that view the RussianUkrainian spat as temporary and unworthy of increasing tension between the EU and Russia.”

Such an “appeasement tactic” may be more popular with Brussels because it wouldn’t antagonize Moscow and would avoid painful economic sanctions. “However, if the EU wants to effectively ensure the long-term stabilization of its neighborhood, it will need to make it a policy priority and not kowtow to Russian belligerence,” she concluded.

With the eurozone economy at a virtual standstill, though, the EU may be reluctant to impose further sanctions on Moscow. To that end, as much as Russia will take center stage during Latvia’s EU presidency, Razāns also wants to focus on the Transatlantic Trade and Investment Partnership (TTIP), saying he’d love to see TTIP become a reality before Latvia hands off the EU presidency to

Luxembourg — alphabetically next in line — on June 30.

“Latvia has always been an open and transparent market economy,” he said. “We can really gain more from opening up trade by dismantling barriers. We believe countries like Latvia will benefit from this, and we will be among its strongest supporters in the EU. We expect it will add more dynamism on the European side. This is more than a purely technical trade agreement. It will lift the transatlantic relationship to new heights.”

According to the American Chamber of Commerce in Latvia, the TTIP could increase economic activity by €119 billion per year in the EU and €95 billion in the United States.

“The TTIP would give Latvian firms — especially small and medium-sized enterprises — greater access to a huge market by reducing or eliminating market access barriers and tariffs,” said an AmCham press release.

Yet critics say the mega-deal will result in a watering-down of strict EU standards on food safety and the environment, opening up European supermarkets to genetically modified foods, pesticides and growth hormones that are now banned in the EU but allowed by U.S. authorities. Banking regulations could also be relaxed as well as laws protecting individual privacy on the Internet, say those opposed to TTIP. Nevertheless, opposition to TTIP by the general public is unlikely. Furthermore, the deal is solidly supported by not only the Latvian government but also by Germany, economically the EU’s most powerful nation.

Razāns said he has absolutely no doubt that “both sides would gain immensely and strategically” from the trade deal.

“If and when Europe and the U.S. are able to agree on the TTIP, it will have some spillover effects into our neighborhood,” the ambassador told us, warning that “if we miss this chance now, we will never be able to get it back.”

Larry Luxner is news editor of The Washington Diplomat.

January 2015

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Disasters people of Haiti instead of merely lining contractors’ pockets.”

According to Weisbrot, 66.2 percent of USAID contracts have gone to Beltway-based firms, while just 1.5 percent has gone to Haitian companies.

“There is something terribly wrong with this picture.”

If Haiti is the example of what not to do after a natural disaster of unprecedented magnitude, then perhaps Indonesia should be studied by government planners, humanitarian workers and academics as a country that got it right.

Granted, the two cases are vastly different, even though total death tolls from the Haitian quake of 2010 and the Indian Ocean tsunami of 2004 were roughly the same.

Indonesia is the world’s fourth-largest country, with a population approaching 250 million and a thriving economy based on manufacturing, services and the export of petroleum and other commodities. In addition, its capital, Jakarta, is 2,600 kilometers southeast of the tsunami’s worst-hit area, meaning that Indonesia’s government institutions were untouched by the disaster.

By contrast, densely populated Haiti is by far the poorest country in the Western Hemisphere.

Its roughly 10.3 million people scrape by on an average per-capita income of around $1,700 a year (compared to $9,260 for Indonesia, according to World Bank statistics). More than half the population lives in extreme poverty, and Haiti ranks toward the bottom of nearly every international ranking from the U.N. Human Development Index to the World Bank’s Ease of Doing Business report.

It didn’t help that most of Haiti’s government institutions crumbled in the quake, which also killed many of its most capable technocrats. The elegant presidential palace — a symbol of splendor in downtown Port-au-Prince — was also destroyed; its ruins were finally torn down three years later by an NGO headed by actor Sean Penn.

The experiences of both countries’ response to their respective disasters were featured at a Nov. 13-14 conference in Tacloban to mark one year since Haiyan. The meeting was organized by Development and Peace, a Montreal-based NGO that has raised $12 million in aid for typhoon January 2015

WASHINGTON F I N E P RO P E RT I E S , L L C victims. It brought together 150 participants to assess the progress of various disaster reconstruction efforts around the world.

“Sadly, the ‘disaster capitalism’ that was witnessed in other countries is also a risk in the Philippines,” said Jess Agustin, the NGO’s programs officer in Manila. “Poor coastal communities that have lost everything are facing evictions to make way for tourism, shopping malls and industrial fishing, and this needs to be monitored.”

Even so, Budi Bowoleksono, Indonesia’s ambassador to the United States, says he looks back with pride on how his country handled the worst disaster in its history. For years, a separatist movement had been raging in Aceh province, which bore the brunt of the tsunami. But in the wake of the disaster, both sides put aside their animosity and forged an impressive political reconciliation that rebuilt the province and gave it a measure of political autonomy, while earning kudos for the government in Jakarta.

“Ten years ago, the province of Aceh was devastated by a disaster of tidal waves that shook the world,” Bowoleksono told The Diplomat. “After years of rehabilitation and restoration, today the province and the people of Aceh have managed to overcome the catastrophe and continue on with rebuilding their cities and their lives.”

The ambassador cited his people’s “heartwarming sense of togetherness” as a factor in the country’s ability to confront its nightmare. But more specifically, he says credit should go to the Agency for the Rehabilitation and Reconstruction of Aceh and Nias (BRR), which he helped organize in the months following the tsunami and a subsequent 8.7-magnitude quake that struck the Sumatran island of Nias in March 2005.

He said BRR’s integrity was so highly regarded that its Stanford University-educated chief, Kuntoro Mangkusubroto, received recognition from the United Nations, the Norwegian government and the Clinton Foundation.

“This is also a success story of the international community,” said Bowoleksono. He noted that in the wake of the tsunami, worldwide donors pledged $7.7 billion in reconstruction and development funds for Indonesia — and that by the end of 2007, projects and programs worth $6.4 billion had been allocated by 463 organizations, 65 percent of which had been disbursed by December 2007.

“Usually, the implementation ratio is no more

than 50 percent, and this was considerably higher,” he said, noting that the program in Aceh and Nias — involving up to 20,000 projects in all — ranks as one of the largest humanitarian programs in history.

Ten years on, the difference is obvious. Michael Sullivan, a correspondent for NPR’s All Things Considered, reported in January 2014 that the province of Aceh— “where whole villages were swept away by a wall of water so powerful it picked up ships and left them several miles inland” — is barely recognizable today.

“The crescent-shaped, white-sand beach at Lhoknga is impossibly beautiful. It’s popular with families who come from nearby Banda Aceh,” Sullivan wrote.“Banda Aceh is awash in new cars, motorcycles and cell phone shops — all indicative of the trickle-down benefits billions in aid money brings.”

The Aceh Tsunami Museum, located in Banda Aceh, is a 2,500-square-meter, four-story structure that memorializes the tsunami’s victims while housing an emergency disaster shelter in case the area is ever hit by a tsunami again.

Perhaps the most important legacy of the tsunami is an end to the violent conflict between Muslim Acehnese separatists and the Indonesian military. The religious-cultural insurgency lasted for 28 years and claimed at least 12,000 lives on both sides until destruction from the tsunami forced both sides to sign a tenuous peace accord.

In a strange way, the Indian Ocean tsunami was a “blessing in disguise,” concedes Ambassador Bowoleksono.

“The calamity has brought people together to rebuild Aceh, and this accelerated the peaceful settlement in Aceh,” he said. “Everyone believes they should be united, no matter where they come from. In other words, the Aceh tsunami has strengthened unity among the people of Indonesia.”

Like Indonesia with its 17,508 islands, the nearby Philippines — consisting of 7,107 islands — is a tropical country prone to the ravages of nature. And more than a year later, it’s still reeling from Super Typhoon Haiyan.

“This was an enormous disaster.We were there on the military and civilian side, and began funneling $86 million worth of assistance in immediately,” said Scot Marciel, principal deputy assistant secretary for East Asian and Pacific affairs at the State Department and a former U.S. ambassador

to Indonesia.“We took the lead from our Philippine counterparts who could tell us what was really needed. Obviously, the most important thing is to respond as quickly as possible and save as many lives as you can.”

In all, the U.S. military transported 2,495 tons of relief supplies to the Philippines, with logistical support involving more than 50 aircraft and ships, and well over 1,000 soldiers. Cuisia said 171 municipalities in 14 provinces across the central Philippines were eventually declared priority areas for assistance, with around $12 billion in damages attributed to the killer cyclone.

Since Haiyan, he said the Philippine government has spent nearly $3.1 billion to rebuild the hardest-hit areas, including $1.7 billion on resettlement, $572 million on livelihoods, $544 million on social services and $250 million on infrastructure.

“We’re probably better prepared for the next one, in terms of coordination between local governments and the national governments,” the ambassador said.“In the past, many people refused to heed official warnings to evacuate. But they’ve now seen what happened, so we’re hopeful there will be a better response from local residents.”

He added:“We’re also imposing higher building standards to make houses, schools and hospitals more typhoon-resistant.”

But whether in Indonesia, the Philippines or Haiti, mistakes are always made in the aftermath of calamity.

Patrick Daly, a researcher at the National University of Singapore, has been studying Aceh ever since the tsunami. He says the Philippines could learn from mistakes made in Indonesia.

“I think the first three years could have been a lot more effective and it could have been a lot less internationalized,” Daly told NPR’s Sullivan, adding that projects in Aceh tended to work better once they were transferred to local partners.

“In the Philippines, which has a rich history of civil society engagement and NGO work, I would say, empower them,” he said.“Let them make decisions from the onset about planning; give them real responsibility to determine spending and how to allocate budgets and let them determine the priorities.You’ll find projects will probably be more effective and more likely to last after the aid dries up.”

Larry Luxner is news editor of The Washington Diplomat.

The Washington Diplomat Page 47

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